(DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Italy

VERONA І 149


Romeo and Juliet
The tragic story of Romeo and Juliet, two young lovers from rival families,
was written by Luigi da Porto of Vicenza in the 1520s and has inspired
countless dramas, films and ballets.
At the Casa di Giulietta (Juliet’s house), No. 23 Via Cappello, Romeo
is said to have climbed to Juliet’s balcony; in reality this is a restored
13th-century inn. Crowds throng to see the simple façade and stand on
the small marble balcony. The run-down Casa di Romeo is a few streets
away, in Via Arche Scaligeri.
The so-called Tomba di Giulietta is displayed in a crypt below
the cloister of San Francesco al Corso on Via del Pontiere. The stone
sarcophagus lies in an extremely atmospheric setting.
Both the Casa and the Tomba di Giulietta are open daily (in the
The so-called Casa di Giulietta afternoon only on Mondays). There is an admission charge.

R Duomo T Teatro Romano
Piazza Duomo. Tel 045 59 28 13. E Museo Archeologico
Open daily (pm only Sun). & 7 ^ Regaste Redentore 2. Tel 045 800 03 60.
∑ chieseverona.it Open 1:30–7:30pm Mon (all day if
Verona’s cathedral was begun public hol); 8:30am–7:30pm Tue–Sun.
in 1139 and is fronted by a The theatre closes early on perform-
magnificent Romanesque portal ance days. Closed 1 Jan, 25 & 26 Dec.
carved by Nicolò, one of the & 7
two master masons responsible This Roman theatre was built
for the façade of San Zeno (see in the 1st century BC; little
pp150–51). Here he sculpted the survives of the stage area, but
figures of Oliver and Roland, the semicircular seating area
two of Charlemagne’s knights, is largely intact. It offers great
whose exploits were much views over Verona: in the
celebrated in medieval poetry. foreground is the only one of
Alongside them stand three Roman bridges to have Statuary and formal hedges in the
evangelists and saints. To survived, though it was rebuilt Renaissance Giardino Giusti
the south there is a second after World War II.
Romanesque portal carved with A lift carries visitors from Y Giardino Giusti
Jonah and the Whale and with the Teatro Romano to the Via Giardino Giusti 2. Tel 045 803 40
comically grotesque caryatids. monastery above, now an 29. Open 9am–8pm daily (Oct–Mar:
The highlight of the interior is archaeological museum. to 7pm). Closed 25 Dec. & 7
Titian’s lovely Assumption (1535– The exhibits around the tiny This fine Renaissance garden was
40). Outside is a Romanesque cloister and in the old monks’ laid out in 1580. As with other
cloister in which the excavated cells include mosaics, pottery gardens of the period, there is a
ruins of earlier churches are visible. and glass. There is also a deliberate juxtaposition of
The 8th-century baptistry, or bronze bust of the first Roman nature and artifice: the formal
San Giovanni in Fonte (St John emperor, Augustus (63 BC–AD lower garden of clipped box
of the Spring), was built from 14), who in 31 BC overcame his hedges, gravel walks and potted
Roman masonry; the marble opponents to become ruler of plants contrasts with wilder,
font was carved in 1200. the Roman world. natural woods above.
John Evelyn, the English
author and diarist who visited
Verona in 1661, thought this the
finest garden in Europe.
R San Giorgio in Braida
Lungadige San Giorgio. Tel 045 834 02
32. Open daily. Closed during Mass.
This lovely domed Renaissance
church was begun in about
1530 by Michele Sanmicheli.
The altar includes the famous
Martyrdom of St George (1566)
by Veronese, and above the
west door is the Baptism of
Christ, usually attributed to
The imposing façade of Verona’s Duomo, Santa Maria Matricolare Tintoretto (1518–94).




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Verona: San Zeno Maggiore

San Zeno, built in 1120–38 to house the
shrine of Verona’s patron saint, is the most
ornate Romanesque church in northern
Italy. The façade is adorned with an
impressive rose window, marble reliefs
and a graceful porch canopy. The highlight,
however, is the fascinating 11th- and 12th-
century bronze door panels. A squat tower Nave Ceiling
just north of San Zeno is said to cover the The nave has a magnificent example of
tomb of King Pepin of Italy (777–810). a ship’s keel ceiling, so called because it
resembles the inside of an upturned
boat. This ceiling was constructed in
1386, when the apse was rebuilt.












Altarpiece by Mantegna
The Madonna’s halo in Andrea
Mantegna’s altarpiece of the
Virgin and Child with saints
(1457–9) echoes the shape of
the church’s rose window.














VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
P. San Zeno. Tel 045 59 28 13.
Open 8:30am–6pm Mon–Sat,
12:30–6pm Sun (Nov–Feb: 10am–
1pm, 1:30–5pm Mon–Sat; 12:30–
5pm Sun). Closed for Mass. &
5 times vary. ^
∑ chieseverona.it


. Cloister (1293–1313)
The arches are rounded
Romanesque on one side,
pointed Gothic on another.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp562–5 and pp580–84


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VERONA  151


Bronze Door Panels KEY
The 48 bronze panels of the west doors are primitive but force- 1 Former washroom
ful in their depiction of biblical stories and scenes from the life 2 The bell tower, started in 1045,
of San Zeno. Those on the left date from 1030 and survive from reached its present height of
an earlier church on the site; those on the right were made 72 m (236 ft) in 1173.
after the earthquake in 1137. The panels are the work of three 3 The rose window, dating
separate craftsmen and are linked with masks. Huge staring from the early 12th century,
eyes and Ottoman-style hats, armour and architecture feature symbolizes the Wheel of Fortune:
prominently. Among the scenes, some of which are unclear, figures on the rim show the rise
are Adam and Eve, Salome dancing for the head of John the and fall of human luck.
Baptist and a startling Descent into Limbo.
4 The Romanesque porch is
one of the finest examples of
the style in northern Italy. Since
1138 it has shielded biblical bas-
reliefs, above the west doors, from
the elements.
5 Marble side panels, which
were carved in 1140, depict events
from the Life of Christ (to the left of
the doors) and scenes from the
Descent into Limbo Christ in Glory Human head Book of Genesis (to the right).
6 Striped brickwork is typical of
Romanesque buildings in Verona.
Courses of local pink brick are
Nave and Main Altar alternated with ivory-coloured tufa.
The plan of the church is 7 The vaulted crypt contains
modelled on an ancient the tomb of San Zeno, appointed
Roman basilica, the Hall eighth bishop of Verona in AD 362,
of Justice. The main altar who died in AD 380.
is situated in the raised
sanctuary where the judge’s
throne would have stood.


























. West Doors
Each of the wooden doors has 24 bronze plates
nailed on to make the doors look like solid metal.
A multicoloured bas-relief above them depicts
San Zeno, flanked by the people of Verona,
vanquishing the devil.




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2 Lago di Garda VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Garda, the largest and easternmost of the Italian lakes, Practical Information
borders three regions: Trentino to the north, Lombardy to Brescia, Verona & Trento. n Viale
the west and south, and the Veneto to the south and east. Marconi 8, Sirmione (030 91 61
14), open Easter–Oct. Il Vittoriale:
The low-lying countryside around the southern stretches Gardone. Tel 036 529 65 11.
becomes increasingly dramatic further north, until impressive Open daily. & Rocca Scaligera:
rocky cliffs, sometimes swathed in pines, hug the shoreline Sirmione. Tel 030 91 64 68.
of the northern tip. The numerous sporting facilities, many Open Tue–Sun. & 8
∑ sirmionebs.it
sights and splendid scenery of snowcapped mountains
help make the lake a favourite summer playground. Transport
V Peschiera del Garda, Desen za­
no del Garda. g @ to all towns.

Riva del Garda
Torbole
Riva’s waterfront
is dom inated by a S45b
12th­century fortress.
Windsurfers favour
this resort because Limone sul
of the consistent Garda
Eastern tip of Sirmione Peninsula offshore winds. J
Beyond the town is a path which J
follows the rim of the peninsula, Tremosine
passing boiling sulphur springs. Malcesine
Campione
The streets of
Assenza Malcesine cluster
del Garda J
below an imposing
Gardone is noted for its exotically planted Tignale J
park and for Il Vittoriale, the Art Deco villa medieval castle.
of the poet Gabriele d’Annunzio, which Brenzone A cable car climbs
is filled with curiosities. Gargnano to the summit of
Castelletto Monte Baldo (1,745 m/
Bogliaco 5,725 ft), offering far­
The Republic of Salò was reaching views.
established here by Mussolini
in 1943. The cathedral in this S249
elegant town of pastel­painted Toscolano
houses contains a 14th­century Maderno
altarpiece by Veneziano. 0 kilometres 5
Gardone Riviera
Salò Torri del Benaco 0 miles 5
Portese The lake is named after this
long­established town.
San Felice del J Garda
Bonaco
Manerba J Bardolino Bardolino gave its name to
the well­known red wine.
Moniga
Peschiera’s attractive enclosed
S572 Lazise harbour and fortress were built by
The hydrofoils, Padenghe Sirmlone the Austrians in the 1860s, during
catamarans and sul Garda the Italian Wars of Independence.
steamers which ply
the lake offer glimpses
of villas and gardens, Desenzano
which cannot be seen S11 Peschiera
from the coastal road. del Garda
Key Sirmione
Steamer route A fascinating medieval castle, the
Rocca Scaligera dominates the town of Sirmione.
Car ferry At the tip of the peninsula lie Roman ruins.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp562–5 and pp580–84

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THE VENE T O AND FRIULI  153


5 Castelfranco
Veneto
Treviso. * 30,000. V @ n Via
Riccati 14 (0423 49 50 00), open Tue–
Sat am. ( Tue am & Fri am.
Fortified in 1199 by the rulers of
Treviso as a defence against the
neighbouring Paduans, the
historic core of this town lies
within well­preserved walls.
The Casa di Giorgione is said to
be the birthplace of the painter
Giorgione (1478–1511). It now
The 16th-century wooden bridge by Palladio at Bassano del Grappa houses a museum devoted to
his life. Giorgione innovatively
3 Bassano the Venetian wife of the King of used landscape to create mood,
del Grappa Cyprus, who poisoned her adding figures to intensify the
husband so that Venice would atmosphere – for instance, in his
Vicenza. * 39,000. V @ gain Cyprus. Cardinal Pietro most famous work, the brood­
n Largo Corona d’Italia 35 (0424 52 Bembo, a poet, coined the verb ingly mysterious but evocative
43 51). ( Thu & Sat am. asolare to describe the bitter­ The Tempest (see p110). Another
∑ bassanodelgrappa.com sweet life of enforced idleness of his few directly attributable
she endured in exile here. Among works hangs here in the Duomo:
This peaceful town lies at the others who fell in love with the the Madonna and Child with
foot of Monte Grappa. The River narrow streets and grand houses Saints Liberal and Francis (1504).
Brenta is straddled by the grace­ was poet Robert Browning, who
ful Ponte degli Alpini, designed named a volume of poems Environs
in 1569 by Palladio. It is built of Asolanda (1889) after Asolo. About 8 km (5 miles) northeast
timber to allow it to flex when hit of the town, at Fanzolo, lies the
by the spring meltwaters. Bassano Environs Villa Emo (c.1555). Designed by
is well­known for its majolica At Maser, 10 km (6 miles) east of Palladio, it is a typical example of
products (decorated and glazed the town, stands the magnificent his work: a cube flanked by two
earthenware), some of which are Villa Barbaro (see pp84–5). sym metrical wings. Inside there
on display in the Palazzo Sturm. It was designed by Palladio in are lavish frescoes by Zelotti.
The town is also synonymous about 1555, in conjunction with
with the popular Italian clear the artist Veronese, and perfectly P Casa di Giorgione
spirit known as grappa. It is blends symmetry and light, airy Piazza San Liberale. Tel 0423 73 56 26.
produced from the lees (graspa) rooms with sumptuous trompe Open Tue–Sun (am only Tue–Thu).
left over from wine production; l’oeil frescoes. Closed pub hols. &
information about the process is ∑ museocasagiorgione.it
given in the Museo degli Alpini. P Villa Barbaro P Villa Emo
Masèr. Tel 0423 92 30 04. Open Via Stazione 5, Fanzolo. Tel 0423 47 63
E Palazzo Sturm 10:30am–6pm Tue–Sat, 11am–6pm 34. Open May–Oct: daily (pm only Mon–
Via Schiavonetti. Tel 0424 52 49 33. Sun & pub hols. Closed 1 Jan, Easter Sat); Nov–Apr: daily. Closed 1 Jan, 25,
Open Tue–Sun. & ∑ musei Sun, 25 Dec. & ∑ villadimaser.it 26 & 31 Dec. & =∑ villaemo.org
bassano.it
E Museo degli Alpini
Via Angarano 2. Tel 0424 50 36 50.
Open Tue–Sun. & 7 - =
∑ museibassano.it
4 Asolo
Treviso. * 2,000. @ n Piazza
Garibaldi 73 (0423 52 90 46), open
Tue–Sun. ( Sat. ∑ asolo.it
Asolo is beautifully sited among
the cypress­clad foothills of the
Dolomites. This tiny walled town
was once ruled by Queen
Caterina Cornaro (1454–1510), Fresco by Paolo Veronese adorning a ceiling in Villa Barbaro, near Asolo




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6 Street-by-Street: Vicenza

Vicenza is known as the adoptive city of
Andrea Palladio (1508–80), who started
out as a stonemason and became the most Contrà Porti is
influential architect of his time. The evolution bordered by some
of his distinctive style is visible all around the of the most elegant
city. In the centre is the monumental Basilica palazzi in Vicenza.
he adapted to serve as the town hall, nearby
is the Teatro Olimpico, and all around are the
palaces he built for Vicenza’s wealthy citizens.
Loggia del Capitaniato
This covered arcade
was designed by
Palladio in 1571.






Palazzo Valmarana Braga
Palladio’s impressive building of 1566 is
decorated with giant pilasters and sculpted
scenes. It was not completed until 1680,
100 years after the architect’s death.
C O R S O A N D R E A PA L L A D I O C O N T R A C A V O U R P I A Z Z A D E I


S I G N O R I

D E L L' ~
C M U S C H E R I A
San Lorenzo P PALLADIO P I A Z Z A E R B E
Piazza Stazione V I A B AT T I S T I
P E S C H E R I E
V E C C H I E
C O N T R A C O N T R A
Duomo G A R I B A L D I C O N T R A P E S C A R I A
Vicenza’s cathedral P R O T I
was rebuilt after bomb
damage during World C O N T R A P L A M P E R T I C O
War II left only the façade C O N T R A
and choir entirely intact. C O N T R A S A N
P I A Z Z A D E L A N T O N I O
D U O M O





0 metres 50
Andrea Palladio 0 yards 50
This memorial to
Vicenza’s most
famous citizen is
usually surrounded Key
by market stalls. Suggested route
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp562–5 and pp580–84


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Date 20th August 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm

VICENZA  155


VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
A large hall is all that
remains of the 15th-century Practical Information
Palazzo della Ragione. * 116,000. n Piazza Matteotti
12 (0444 32 08 54). ( Tue & Thu.
Torre di Piazza, _ May & Jun: concert season;
built in the Sep & Oct: theatre season; end
12th century, Jun–early Jul: Concerti in Villa.
is an impressive ∑ vicenzae.org
Santa 82 m (269 ft) high.
Corona Transport
Teatro V @ Piazza Stazione.
Olimpico
Museo
Civico The lion of St Mark gazing down on
Piazza dei Signori
BARBARA P Piazza dei Signori

exhibitions, concerts and guided tours
S Basilica: Tel 0444 32 36 81. Open for
only, when it is possible to visit the
CONTRA loggia (call tourist office for timings). &
This square at the heart of Vicenza
is dominated by the Palazzo della
. Piazza dei Signori
Palladio’s elegant buildings flank Ragione, often referred to as the
the Piazza dei Signori, including the Basilica. Its green, copper-clad
majestic two-tier colonnades of the roof is shaped like an upturned
16th-century “Basilica”, built around boat with a balustrade bristling
the old Palazzo della Ragione. with the statues of Greek and
Roman gods. The colonnades
P I A Z Z A
were designed by Palladio in
The Quartiere delle Barche
D E L L E B I A D E
1549 as a facing to support the
P I A Z Z A D E I C O N T R A C AT E N A contains numerous attractive city’s 15th-century town hall,
palaces built in the 14th-
CONTRA PIANCOLI
S I G N O R I C GAZZOLE century Venetian Gothic style. The Basilica is now used as an
which had begun to subside.
exhibition space. Beside it stands
P I A Z Z A E R B E the 12th-century Torre di Piazza.
D E L L' ~
The Loggia del Capitaniato,
to the northwest, was built by
P PALLADIO
upper rooms contain the city’s
C O N T R A CONTRA SAN PAOLO Palladio in 1571: the Loggia’s
P E S C H E R I E
council chamber.
V E C C H I E
P Contrà Porti
P R O T I C O N T R A P E S C A R I A CONTRA PONTE SAN MICHELE Contrà (an abbreviation of
contrada, or district) is the Vicenza
R E T R O N E dialect word for street. On one
side of the Contrà is a series of
C O N T R A pretty Gothic buildings with
La Rotonda Ponte San Michele painted windows and ornate
balconies, reminiscent of Venice
Monte Berico This elegant stone bridge, and a reminder that Vicenza was
Villa Valmarana Piazza delle Erbe, built in 1620, provides once part of the Venetian empire.
ai Nani the city’s market square, lovely views of the Several elegant Palladian palazzi
is overlooked by a 13th- surrounding town.
century prison tower. stand on this street. Palazzo
Porto Barbarano (No. 11), Palazzo
Thiene (No. 12) and Palazzo
Iseppo da Porto (No. 21) illustrate
the variety of Palladio’s style –
Casa Pigafetta all share Classical elements, but
This striking 15th-century each is unique. An intriguing
house was the birthplace detail is that Palazzo Thiene
of Antonio Pigafetta, who appears to be of stone, but it
in 1519 set sail round the is in fact built of cheap brick,
world with Magellan. rendered to look like masonry.
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Exploring Vicenza the entrance hall. Among the
Gothic altarpieces from churches
Vicenza, the great Palladian city and one of the wealthiest in Vicenza is Hans Memling’s
cities in the Veneto, is celebrated the world over for its Crucifixion (1468–70), the central
splendid and varied architecture. It also offers the visitor a panel from a triptych whose
dazzling array of elegant shops and cafés to visit. side panels are now in
New York.
Other rooms contain works
by the local artist Bartolomeo
Montagna (c.1450–1523).
R Santa Corona
Contrà Santa Corona. Tel 0444 22 28
11. Open Tue–Sun. &
This Gothic church was built in
1261 to house a thorn donated
by Louis IX of France, and said to
be from Christ’s Crown of Thorns.
The Cappella Porto houses the
Brusazorzi’s ceiling fresco in the large entrance hall of the Museo Civico tomb of Luigi da Porto, author of
Giulietta e Romeo, on which
E Museo Civico Palazzo Chiericati (see p84), which Shakespeare based his famous
Piazza Matteotti 37–39. Tel 0444 22 was built by Palladio. Inside is a play. Notable paintings include
28 11. Open 9am–5pm Tue–Sun. fresco by Domenico Bru sazorzi of Giovanni Bellini’s Baptism of Christ
& 7 ∑ museicivicivicenza.it a naked charioteer, representing (c.1500) and the Adoration of the
This museum is housed in the Sun, who seems to fly over Magi (1573) by Paolo Veronese.


P Teatro Olimpico
Piazza Matteotti 11. Tel 0444 22 28 00. Odeon Frescoes
Open 9am–5pm Tue–Sun (last entry: 4:30pm). The gods of Mount
Closed during performances, 1 Jan, 25 Dec. & Olympus, after
7 = ∑ olimpicovicenza.it which the theatre
Europe’s oldest surviving indoor theatre is named, decorate
is a remarkable structure, largely made of the Odeon, a
wood and plaster, and painted to look like room used for
marble. Palladio began work on the design music recitals.
in 1579, but he died the year after. His pupil
Vincenzo Scamozzi took over the project,
completing the theatre in time for its
opening perfor mance of Sophocles’ tragic
drama Oedipus Rex on 3 March 1585.
The Anteodeon contains Main ticket
frescoes depicting the office
theatre’s opening perfor­
mance and oil lamps from
the original stage set.









Stage Set
Scamozzi’s scenery
represents the Greek city
of Thebes. The streets The Auditorium was designed
are cleverly painted in by Palladio to resemble outdoor theatres of
perspective and rise at a ancient Greece and Rome, such as the Arena at
steep angle to give the Verona (see p147), with a semicircle of stone
illusion of great length. benches and a painted ceiling depicting the sky.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp562–5 and pp580–84


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Date 20th August 2012
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VICENZA  157


R San Lorenzo
Piazza San Lorenzo. Open daily (pm
only on public hols).
The portal of this church is a
magnificent example of Gothic
stone carving, richly decorated
with the figures of the Virgin
and Child, and St Francis and
St Clare. Inside there are fine
tombs and damaged frescoes.
The lovely cloister, north of the
church, is an attractive, flower-
filled haven of calm.
R Monte Berico
Basilica di Monte Berico. Tel 0444 55 La Rotonda (1550–52), most famous of all Palladio’s works
94 11. Open daily (only pm Sun).
Monte Berico is the cypress-clad linking central Vicenza to the about on clouds watching scenes
hill to the south of Vicenza to basilica on top of the hill. The from the epics of Homer and
which wealthy residents once domed basilica itself, built in the Virgil. In the separate Foresteria
escaped, in the heat of summer, 15th century and enlarged in the (guesthouse), the 18th-century
to enjoy the cooler air and 18th, is dedicated to the Virgin frescoes depicting peasant life
pastoral charms of their country who appeared here during the and the seasons, painted by
estates. Today, shady portici, 1426–8 plague to announce Tiepolo’s son Giandomenico, are
or colonnades, adorned with that Vicenza would be spared. imbued with an earthy realism.
shrines, line the wide avenue The ornate interior contains The villa can be reached by a
a moving Pietà fresco (1500) by 10-minute walk from the basilica
Bartolomeo Montagna, a fossil on Monte Berico. Head downhill
collection in the cloister and along Via Massimo d’Azeglio to
The façade statues of Veronese’s fine painting, The the high-walled convent on
stately toga-clad figures Supper of St Gregory the Great the right where the road ends,
are portraits of sponsors (1572), in the refectory. then take Via San Bastiano.
who paid for the theatre’s
construction. P La Rotonda
Via Rotonda 45. Tel 0444 32 17 93.
The courtyard giving Villa: Open 13 Mar–4 Nov: Wed & Sat.
access to the Teatro is & Garden: Open Tue–Sun.
decorated with & ∑ villalarotonda.it
ancient sculptures. With its perfectly regular,
These were donated symmetrical forms, this villa,
by members of the also known as the Villa Capra
Olympic Academy, Valmarana, is the epitome
the learned body of Palladio’s architecture
that built the theatre.
(see pp84–5). The design,
consisting of a dome
rising above a cube,
received immediate
The Baroque hilltop church, the acclaim for the way
Basilica di Monte Berico it blends perfectly with its
surroundings. A pleasant
P Villa Valmarana ai Nani contrast exists between the
Via dei Nani 8. Tel 0444 32 18 03. Open terracotta roof tiles, the white
early Mar–early Nov: 10am–12:30pm, walls and the green lawns.
3–6pm Tue–Sun; early Nov–early Mar: The villa, built in 1550–52,
10am–noon, 2–4pm Sat & Sun. & has inspired many copies in
∑ villavalmarana.com cities as far away as London,
The wall alongside the Villa St Petersburg and Delhi. Fans
Valmarana, built in 1688 by of Don Giovanni will enjoy
Main Antonio Muttoni, is topped by spotting locations used in
entrance figures of dwarfs (nani) which Joseph Losey’s 1979 film.
give the building its name. La Rotonda can be reached
Inside, the walls are covered by bus from town, or on foot,
with frescoes by Tiepolo, in which following the path alongside
the gods of Mount Olympus float the Villa Valmarana ai Nani.




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7 Street-by-Street: Padua

Padua (Padova) is an old university town with an Palazzo del Capitanio
illustrious academic history. Rich in art and architecture, it Built between 1599 and
1605 for the head of the city’s
has two particularly outstanding sights. The magnificent militia, the tower incorporates
Cappella degli Scrovegni (see pp160–61), north of the city an astronomical clock made
centre, is famous for Giotto’s lyrical frescoes. Close to the in 1344.
railway station, it forms part of the complex
incorporating the Eremitani church and
museums. The Basilica di Sant’Antonio, which
forms the focal point in the southern part of
the city, is one of the most popular pilgrimage
destinations in Italy.

Corte Capitaniato, a 14th-
century arts faculty (open for
concerts), contains frescoes
which include a rare portrait
of the poet Petrarch. Ufficio di Turismo





P IAZZA CAPI TANIATO PIAZZA
VIA MONTE DI PIETA DEI SIGNORI DELLE FRUTTA
VIA SAN CLEMENTE
PIAZZA






PIAZZA
VIA MANI N
Loggia della Gran Guardia PIAZZA DEL DELLE ERBE
This fine Renaissance building DUOMO
dating from 1523 once housed
the Council of Nobles. It is now V GRITT
used as a conference centre. VIA SONCIN
VIA VANDELLI




Piazza dei Signori is
. Duomo and Baptistry bordered by attractive
The 12th-century baptistry of arcades which house
the Duomo contains one of small speciality shops,
the most complete medieval cafés and old-fashioned
fresco cycles to survive in wine bars.
Italy, painted by Giusto de’
Menabuoi in 1378.
The Palazzo del Monte di
Key Pietà has 16th-century arcades
Suggested route and statues enclosing a
medieval building.
0 metres 75
0 yards 75
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp562–5 and pp580–84


158-159_EW_Italy.indd 158 26/04/16 5:15 pm
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(Source v1.9)
Date 20th August 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm

P ADU A  159


VISITORS’ CHECKLIST R Duomo and Baptistry
Piazza Duomo. Baptistry: Tel 049 65
Palazzo del Capitanio Practical Information 69 14. Open 10am–6pm daily.
Built between 1599 and * 220,000. ( Mon–Sat, Piazza Closed 1 Jan, Easter, 25 Dec. & ^
1605 for the head of the city’s delle Erbe. _ Jun–Sep: Cultural The Duomo was built in 1552
militia, the tower incorporates Festival. ∑ turismopadova.it to plans partly by Michelan gelo,
an astronomical clock made on the site of an earlier
in 1344. Transport
V n Piazzale della Stazione 14th-century cathedral. Beside
13a (049 201 00 80). it stands a domed baptistry
@ Piazza Boschetti. (c.1200). The interior is entirely
decorated with vibrant frescoes
Caffè Pedrocchi painted by Giusto de’ Menabuoi,
Built like a Classical temple, A bronze statue of a dating from around 1378.
the Caffè Pedrocchi has been woman (1973) by Emilio The frescoes depict episodes
a famous meeting place for Greco stands at the from the Bible, including scenes
students and intellectuals centre of this largely of the Creation, the Miracles,
since it opened in 1831. pedestrianized square. the Passion, the Crucifixion
and the Resurrection of Christ.
Stazione Chiesa Degli
Eremitiani Cappella Degli P Palazzo della Ragione
Scrovegni Museo Civico Piazza delle Erbe (entrance via
the town hall). Tel 049 820 50 06.
Open 9am–7pm Tue–Sun (Nov–Jan:
to 6pm). Closed 1 Jan, 1 May, 25 &
P I A Z Z A
26 Dec. & 7 =
The “Palace of Reason” was built
CAVOUR
in 1218 to serve as Padua’s law
VIA GORIZIA
court and council chamber.
The vast main hall was originally
decorated with frescoes by
PIAZZA
DELLE FRUTTA Giotto, but fire destroyed his
work in 1420. The Salone is
breath taking in its sheer size. It
VIA OBERDAN
is the largest undivided medieval
FEBBRAIO PITTA GARZERIA hall in Europe, 80 m (260 ft)
long, 27 m (90 ft) wide and 27 m
PIAZZA (90 ft) high. Frescoes painted in
VIA V111 its walls: the 333 panels depict
DELLE ERBE 1420–25 by Nicola Miretto cover
the months of the year, with
appro priate gods, signs of
the zodiac and seasonal
activities. A 1466 copy
of the huge Gattamelata
V SAN CANZIANO
statue (see p162) by
Basilica di Sant’Antonio
Orto Botanico Dona tello stands at
Padua University one end of the hall.
Founded in 1222, this
is Italy’s second-oldest P Caffè Pedrocchi
Palazzo della Ragione, university. Elena Piscopia Via VIII Febbraio 15.
the medieval court of justice, was the first woman Tel 049 878 12 31.
contains magnificent frescoes. graduate, in 1678. Open daily (Jun–Oct:
Tue–Sun). Closed
Aug. Museum: Open
Tue–Sun. ∑ caffepedrocchi.it
Caffè Pedrocchi opened in
Piazza delle Erbe 1831. Today people come as
There are some excellent much to talk, play cards or
views to be had over the watch the world go by as
marketplace from the to eat or drink. The upstairs
15th-century loggia rooms, decorated in Moorish,
which runs alongside Egyptian and other styles,
the 13th-century Palazzo house a museum documenting
della Ragione. modern Italian history.
158-159_EW_Italy.indd 159 26/04/16 5:15 pm

160  NOR THEAST IT AL Y

Padua: Cappella degli Scrovegni

Enrico Scrovegni built this chapel in 1303, The Nativity
hoping thereby to spare his dead father, a The naturalism
of the Virgin’s pose
usurer, from the eternal damnation in hell marks a departure
described by the poet Dante in his Inferno. from Byzantine
The interior of the chapel is entirely covered stylization, as
with beautiful frescoes of scenes from the does the use of
natural blue for
life of Christ, painted by Giotto between the sky, in place
1303 and 1305. As works of great narrative of celestial gold.
force, they exerted a powerful influence
on the development of European art.














Expulsion of the Merchants
Christ’s physical rage, the cowering
merchant and the child hiding his face
show an animation that is characteristic
of Giotto’s style.

The Coretti
Giotto painted the
two panels known
as the Coretti
as an exercise
in perspective,
creating the
illusion of an
arch with a
room beyond.

View towards altar








West entrance North side Altar South side West entrance
Gallery Guide Key
Due to the Cappella degli Scrovegni’s small size, the number of Episodes of Joachim and Anna
visitors allowed in at any one time is strictly limited. Prior to entering, Episodes from the Life of Mary
visitors are required to spend 15 minutes in a decontamination Episodes from the Life and
chamber, where multimedia and multilingual information on the Death of Christ
chapel is provided. The visit itself is also restricted to 15 minutes. The Virtues and Vices
Advance booking is compulsory, either by phone (049 201 00 20) or
online (www.cappelladegliscrovegni.it), with a credit card payment. The Last Judgment
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp562–5 and pp580–84


160-161_EW_Italy.indd 160 4/4/17 5:33 PM

P ADU A  161

The Last Judgment
This scene fills the entire west VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
wall of the chapel. Its formal
composition is closer to Practical Information
Byzantine tradition than Piazza Eremitani. Tel 049 201 00
some of the other frescoes, 20. Open 9am–7pm daily, plus
with parts probably painted some late evenings (call 049 296
by assistants. A model of the 37 20 to book in advance).
chapel is shown (centre left, Closed main public hols.
at the bottom) being offered Advance booking compulsory
to the Virgin by Scrovegni. (see opposite). & 7 ^
∑ cappelladegliscrovegni.it
Transport
@ to Piazzale Boschetti.















Mary is Presented at the Temple
Giotto sets many scenes against an
architectural background, using the
laws of perspective to give a sense
of three dimensions.





Injustice
The Vices and
Virtues are painted
in monochrome. Here
Injustice is symbolized
by scenes of war,
murder and robbery.
View towards entrance

Giotto
The Florentine artist Giotto (1266–1337)
is regarded as the father of the
Renaissance, the great revival in
the Classical traditions of Western
art. His work, with its sense of
pictorial space, naturalism and
narrative drama, marks a decisive
break with the Byzantine tradition of
the preceding 1,000 years. Although
he was regarded in his lifetime as a
great artist, few of the works attributed to
him are fully documented. Some may have
Lament over the Dead Christ been painted by others, but his authorship of the
Giotto’s figures express their grief frescoes in the Scrovegni Chapel need not be doubted.
in different ways: some huddle
together, another gestures wildly.




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162 І NOR THEAST IT AL Y

Exploring Padua
Padua is a city of many attractions, with a rich history: this is
reflected in the major museum complex which occupies a
group of 14th-century monastic buildings attached to the
church of the Eremitani, a reclusive Augustinian order. Next
door is the Cappella degli Scrovegni (see pp160–61). Padua is,
in addition, the setting for one of Italy’s most important
churches – the splendid Basilica di Sant’Antonio – and for
one of the earliest universities to be founded in Italy.

E Chiesa degli Eremitani The Museo Civico Eremitani
and Museo Civico Eremitani holds a coin collection featuring
Piazza Eremitani 8. Tel 049 820 45 rare Roman medallions and an
51. Chapel: Open daily. Museum: almost complete set of Venetian
Open Tue–Sun. Closed 1 Jan, 1 May, coinage, an archaeological
25 & 26 Dec. & 7 ^ = section and an art gallery.
∑ turismopadova.it The rich archaeological
The Eremitani church, built collection contains interesting
from 1276 to 1306, contains Roman tombs, fine mosaics and 15th-century Angels in Armour by
magnificent roof and wall impressive life-size statues. Guariento, Museo Civico Eremitani
tombs. Among them is that of Renaissance bronzes include the
Marco Benavides (1489–1582), comical Drinking Satyr by Il Riccio Padua, a preacher who modelled
a professor of law at (1470–1532). himself on St Francis of Assisi.
the city university, The 14th-century Although he was a simple man
whose Renaissance crucifix from the who rejected worldly wealth, the
tomb was the Cappella degli citizens of Padua built a lavish
work of Florentine Scrovegni is in the church to serve as his shrine.
architect Quadreria Emo The influence of Byzantine
Ammannati (1511– Capodilista, as well as architecture is clearly visible in
92). Celebrated works by Giotto, the basilica’s outline: a cone-
frescoes (1454–7) and 15th- to 18th- shaped central dome rises
by Mantegna, century paintings above seven encircling domes;
portraying scenes A 1st-century AD tomb in the from the Venetian the façade combines Gothic
from the lives of archaeological collection and Flemish schools. and Romanesque elements.
St James and St Inside, the high altar features
Christopher, were destroyed R Basilica di Sant’Antonio Donatello’s magnificent reliefs
during a bombing raid in 1944. Piazza del Santo. Tel 049 822 56 52. (1444–5) on the miracles of St
Two scenes from this Open 7am–7:30pm daily. Anthony, and his statues of the
magnificent series survive in the This exotic church, with its Crucifixion, the Virgin and Paduan
Cappella Ovetari, south of the minaret-like spires and Byzantine saints. The tomb of St Anthony,
sanctuary: The Martyrdom of domes, is also known as Il Santo. hung with offerings, lies in the
St James and The Martyrdom It was built from 1232 to house north transept; large marble
of St Christopher. the remains of St Anthony of reliefs depicting the saint’s life,
carved in 1505–77 by various
artists, adorn the walls around it.
A lively fresco scene of the
Crucifixion by Altichiero da Zevio
(1380s) adorns the south transept.
P Statue of Gattamelata
Beside the entrance to the basilica
stands one of the great works of
the Renaissance: a statue of the
mercenary soldier Gattamelata.
This gritty portrait was created
in 1443–52, in honour of a man
who during his life did great
service to the Venetian Republic.
The artist Donatello won fame
for the monument, the first
equestrian statue made on such
The Basilica di Sant’Antonio, and Donatello’s statue of Gattamelata a large scale since Roman times.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp562–5 and pp580–84


162-163_EW_Italy.indd 162 4/4/17 5:33 PM
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(Source v1.2)
Date 12th June 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm

THE VENE T O AND FRIULI І 163


P Scuola del Santo and
Oratorio di San Giorgio
Piazza del Santo 11. Tel 049 822 56 52.
Open daily. &
Five excellent frescoes, inclu ding
the earliest documented paint­
ings by Titian, are to be found
here. The Scuola del Santo con­
tains two scenes from the life of
St Anthony, painted by Titian in
1511. The works in the San
Giorgio oratory are by Altichiero
da Zevio and Jacopo Avenzo,
who painted them in 1378–84.
The Euganean Hills, formed by ancient volcanic activity
Y Orto Botanico
Via Orto Botanico 15. Tel 049 827 39 8 Euganean Hills E Casa di Petrarca
39. Open Tue–Sun (Apr, May & Oct: Via Valleselle 4, Arquà Petrarca.
daily). Closed 1 Jan, 25 Dec. & 7 V @ to Terme Euganee, Monte­ Tel 0429 802 06 56. Open Tue–
∑ ortobotanicopd.it grotto Terme. n Viale Stazione 60, Sun (also Mon if pub hol).
Montegrotto Terme (049 892 83 11).
Padua’s botanical garden, one ∑ turismopadova.it Closed pub hols. & =
of the oldest in Europe (1545), The picturesque town of Arquà
still retains much of its original The conical Euganean Hills, Petrarca, on the southern edge
appearance. The gardens and remnants of long­extinct of the Euganean Hills, is named
hothouses were used to grow volcanoes, rise abruptly out of after Francesco Petrarca (1304–
the first lilac trees (1568), the surrounding plain. Hot­water 74). This medieval poet, known
sunflowers (1568) and potatoes springs bubble up out of the in English as Petrarch, spent the
(1590) in Italy. The gardens also ground at Abano Terme and final years of his life here, in a
have a biodiversity section. Montegrotto Terme, where house frescoed with scenes
scores of establishments offer from his lyrical poems, over­
P Palazzo del Bo thermal treatments, ranging looking a landscape of olive
Via VIII Febbraio 2. Tel 049 827 51 11. from mudbaths to immersion groves and vineyards. He lies
Open for guided tours only. 8 Tue, in the hot sulphurated waters. buried in a simple sarco phagus
Sat am; Mon, Wed, Fri pm; Thu all day. Spa cures originated in Roman in front of the church.
Call for times. & ∑ unipd.it times; remains of the original
The historic main university baths and theatre are still
building originally housed the visible at Montegrotto Terme.
medical faculty, renowned
throughout Europe. Among its R Abbazia di Praglia
famous teachers and students Via Abbazia di Praglia 16, Bresseo di
was Gabriele Fallopio (1523–62), Teolo. Tel 049 999 93 00. Open Tue–
after whom the Fallopian tubes Sun (pm only). Closed religious
are named. holidays. 8 Donations welcome.
Guided tours include the pulpit ∑ praglia.it
Galileo used when he taught The Benedictine monastery at
physics here from 1592 until Praglia, 6 km (4 miles) west of
1610 and the wooden anatomy Abano Terme, is a peaceful
theatre, built in 1594 and now the haven in the hills where the
oldest surviving medical lecture monks grow herbs and restore
theatre in the world. manuscripts. They lead guided The Casa di Petrarca (part 14th century)
tours of parts of the abbey in Arquà Petrarca
and the church
(1490–1548), noted P Villa Barbarigo
for its beautiful Via Diana 2, Valsanzibio. Tel 049 91 31
cloister. There are 065. Open Feb–Nov: daily. & 7 =
also richly carved ∑ valsanzibiogiardino.it
stalls in both the This 18th­century villa to the north
choir and the of Arquà boasts one of the
refectory, and finest Baroque gardens in the
paintings and Veneto. These were planned by
frescoes by Zelotti, Antonio Barbarigo in 1669, and
a 16th­century are a grandiose mix of statuary,
The 16th-century anatomy theatre in the old medical faculty painter from fountains, a maze, formal parterres,
of the university’s Palazzo del Bo, Padua Verona. lakes and avenues of cypress trees.




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164 І NOR THEAST IT AL Y


0 Treviso
* 81,700. @ V n Via Fiumicelli
30, Piazza Borsa (0422 54 76 32).
( Tue & Sat am.
∑ visittreviso.it
Despite comparisons with Venice,
the fortified city of Treviso has
its own distinctive character.
A good place to start a tour
of the streets, some lined with
attractive balconied houses, is
Calmaggiore. The street links
the Duomo with the Palazzo dei
Trecento, the rebuilt 13th-century
town hall. The Duomo was
founded in the 1100s but rebuilt
several times. Inside, Titian’s
Annunciation (1570) vies for
attention with the striking
Adoration of the Magi fresco (1520)
by Titian’s arch rival, Il Pordenone.
The 16th-century Villa Foscari at Malcontenta, beside the Brenta Canal More paintings by Titian and other
artists of the Renaissance may
9 Brenta Canal 8.5 hour guided tour from be seen in the Museo Civico.
Padua, travelling to Venice The fish market, which dates
Padua and Venice. V Venezia Mestre, (or, on alternate days, from from medieval times, is held on
Dolo, Mira. @ to Mira, Dolo and
Strà. Canal trips on II Burchiello: Venice to Padua) along the an island in the middle of
Venice. Tel 049 876 02 33. river in a leisurely fashion on Treviso’s River Sile; this allows
Closed 25 Jan–7 Feb. & board the Burchiello motor the remains of the day’s trading
∑ ilburchiello.it launch – the cost, however, to be flushed away.
is fairly prohibitive. The Dominican church of San
Over the centuries, in order to Nicolò, nestling by the 16th-cen-
prevent the Venetian lagoon P Villa Pisani tury city wall, contains interesting
silting up, the rivers flowing Via Pisani, Strà. Tel 049 50 20 74. tombs and frescoes, including,
into it were diverted. The River Open Tue–Sun. Closed 1 Jan, 1 May, on a wall of the chapterhouse,
Brenta was canalized in two 25 Dec. & 8 = Fri–Sun (in Italian). the first ever depiction of
sections: the older branch, ∑ villapisani.beniculturali.it spectacles in art. A magnifi cent
between Padua and Fusina P Barchessa Valmarana tomb (1500) by Antonio Rizzo is
(just west of Venice), dates back Via Valmarana 11, Mira. Tel 041 426 63 framed by a fresco of pageboys
to the 1500s and flows for 87. Open Apr–Oct: 10am–6pm Tue– by Lorenzo Lotto.
36 km (22 miles). Its potential as Sun. & 7 ^ ∑ villavalmarana.net
a transport route was quickly P Villa Foscari E Museo Civico
realized and fine villas were Via dei Turisti 9, Malcontenta. Chiesa di Santa Caterina, Piazzetta Mario
built along its length. Many of Tel 041 547 00 12. Open Tue & Botter 1. Tel 0422 65 84 42. Open Tue–
these elegant buildings can Sat am. Closed Nov–Mar. & Sun. Closed public hols. & 7
still be admired today – the S11 ∑ lamalcontenta.com ∑ museicivictreviso.it
road runs alongside most of the
canal’s length – and several of
them are open to the public.
The 18th-century Villa Pisani
at Strà has an extravagant
frescoed ceiling by Tiepolo.
The Barchessa Valmarana at
Mira (a pretty village) boasts
18th-century decorations.
In the village of Malcontenta is
Villa Foscari, or Villa Malcontenta,
one of Palladio’s loveliest villas
(see pp84–5). It was built in
1560 and the interior decorated
with magnificent frescoes by
Zelotti. These villas may also be
visited as part of an indulgent The houses of the medieval town of Treviso overlooking ancient canals
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp562–5 and pp580–84


164-165_EW_Italy.indd 164 4/4/17 5:33 PM

THE VENE T O AND FRIULI І 165


South of the town are the ski
resorts of the Alpe del Nevegal;
in the summer a chair lift
operates from Faverghera up
the flank of the mountain to
a height of 1,600 m (5,250 ft),
offering extensive views.
E Museo Civico
Piazza Duomo 16. Tel 0437 94 48 36.
Open Tue–Sun. Closed Wed, Thu, Sat
& Sun pm. & 8 = ∑ museo.
The façade and entrance to the Renaissance Palazzo dei Rettori in Belluno comune.belluno.it
q Conegliano in the views to be seen from e Cortina
the 12th-century Porta Rugo
Treviso. * 35,000. V @ n Via XX d’Ampezzo
Settembre 61 (0438 212 30). ( Fri. at the southern end of Via
Mezzaterra, the main street of Belluno. * 6,800. @ n Corso Italia
Conegliano lies among Prosecco- the old town. More spectacular 81 (0436 86 90 86). ( Tue am & Fri
producing vineyards, and still are the views from the bell am. ∑ infodolomiti.it
winemakers from all over Italy tower of the 16th-century
learn their craft at Conegliano’s Duomo (subsequently rebuilt). Italy’s top ski resort, much
renowned wine school. Via XX The nearby baptistry houses a favoured by the smart set from
Settembre, the arcaded main font cover with the figure of Turin and Milan, is well supplied
street, is lined with fine 15th- to John the Baptist carved by with restaurants and bars. Cortina
18th-century palazzi, many in Andrea Brustolon (1662–1732). is set amid the extremely
the Venetian Gothic style or Brustolon’s works also grace dramatic scenery of the Dolomites
decorated with fading frescoes. the churches of San Pietro (see pp86–7), which explains
The Duomo contains the town’s (on Via San Pietro) and Santo part of the resort’s attraction: all
one great work of art, Stefano (Piazza Santo Stefano). around, crags and spires thrust
an altarpiece painted North of Piazza del Duomo their distinctive weather-beaten
by local artist Cima da stands the elegant Palazzo shapes above the trees.
Conegliano (1460– dei Rettori (1491) – Cortina has better than average
1518) de picting the once home to the sports facilities, thanks to hosting
Virgin and Child town’s Venetian the 1956 Winter Olympics. In
with Saints (1493). rulers – and the addition to downhill and cross-
Reproductions A mythical statue on 12th-century country skiing, there is also a ski
of Cima’s most famous Conegliano’s theatre Torre Civica, jump and a bobsleigh run for
works are on show in all that now those who favour something
the Casa di Cima, the artist’s survives of a medieval castle. more adventurous than usual, as
birthplace. The detailed The Museo Civico contains well as an Olympic ice stadium,
landscapes in the background paintings by Bartolomeo several swimming pools, tennis
of his paintings were based on Montagna (1450–1523) and courts and riding facilities.
the hills around the town; the Sebastiano Ricci (1659–1734), During the summer months,
same views can still be seen and a notable archaeological Cortina becomes an excellent
from the gardens surrounding section. North of the museum base for walkers. Useful
the Castelvecchio (old castle). is Belluno’s finest square, the information on trails and guided
Piazza del Mercato, with its walks is available from the tourist
P Casa di Cima arcaded Renaissance palaces office or, during the summer,
Via Cima 24. Tel 0438 224 94. and its fountain of 1410. from the Guides’ office opposite.
Open Sat & Sun, pm only and during
temporary exhibitions. &
w Belluno
* 36,000. n Piazza Duomo 2. V
@ ( Sat. ∑ infodolomiti.it
Picturesque Belluno, capital of
Belluno province, serves as a
bridge between the two
different parts of the Veneto,
with the flat plains to the south
and the Dolomite peaks to the
north. Both are encapsulated Corso Italia in Cortina d’Ampezzo, Italy’s most important ski resort




164-165_EW_Italy.indd 165 4/4/17 5:33 PM

166 І NOR THEAST IT AL Y


Sauris is an excellent introduction housed in the 17th-century
to the majestic Carnic Alps. Palazzo Ricchieri, where works
Above this point the road is by the local artist Il Pordenone
often impassable in winter, but (1484–1539) are on display.
in summer there are flower-filled Around the corner stands the
meadows all along the road up Duomo, which contains the
to Sella di Razzo, and then back lovely altar painting of the
along the Pesarina Valley, via Madonna della Misericordia
Comeglians and Ravascletto. (1515) by Il Pordenone. The bell
Traditional copper pans on display in the Returning south, Zuglio was tower beside the Duomo is a
Museo delle Arti e Tradizioni in Tolmezzo once the Roman town of Forum fine example of Romanesque
Iulii Carnicum, guarding the road decorative brickwork.
r Tolmezzo over the pass. Today it is worth
a detour for the remains of its E Museo d’Arte
* 10,000. @ n Via della Vittoria 4 Roman basilica, baths and forum. Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 51.
(0433 448 98). ( Mon am. Tel 0434 39 29 35. Open Tue–Sun
∑ turismofvg.it (pm only Tue–Sat). & 7 ^
E Museo delle Arti e Tradizioni
Tolmezzo is the capital of the Via della Vittoria 2. Tel 0433 432 33.
Carnia region, named after the Open Tue–Sun (Aug: daily).
Celtic tribe that inhabited the Closed 1 Jan, 25 Dec. & 7 ^ y Udine
area around the 4th century BC. * 99,000. V @
The town is surrounded by the n Piazza I Maggio 7 (0432 29 59 72).
high peaks of the Carnic Alps, t Pordenone ( Sat. ∑ turismofvg.it
including the pyramidal Monte * 49,000. V @ n Via Mazzini 2
Amariana (1,906 m/6,253 ft) to (0434 52 03 81). ( Wed & Sat am. Udine is a city of varied and
the east. The best place to begin ∑ turismofvg.it surprising architecture. In the
a tour of the region is the Museo center lies Piazza della Libertà,
delle Arti e Tradizioni, which Old Pordenone consists of one where the Loggia del Lionello
has displays of local costumes, long street, the Corso Vittorio (1448–56), built of pink stone in
crafts, textiles and agriculture. Emanuele, lined with pretty Venetian Gothic style, stands
Southwest of the town, a scenic arcaded houses of pink brick, beside the Art Deco Caffè
road climbs 14 km (9 miles) to some with the faded traces of Contarena. Opposite, the Renais-
the ski resort of Sella Chianzutan, decorative frescoes on their sance symmetry of the Porticato
a good base for walking in façades. The 13th-century di San Giovanni is interrupted
the summer. More resorts line Palazzo Comunale forms a by the Torre dell’Orologio (Clock
the road, west of Tolmezzo, striking conclusion to the Tower, 1527), crowned by two
to Ampezzo, at which point a street, with its eccentrically bronze Moors which strike every
minor road heads north through shaped roofline of curves and hour. Note also the fountain of
the gorge of the River Lumiei. minaret-like side towers, and 1542, the two 18th-century
Following this road to the Ponte its 16th-century clock tower. statues, and the column
di Buso bridge and the Lago di Opposite is the Museo d’Arte, supporting the Lion of St Mark.
Beyond the Arco Bollani, a
gateway designed by Palladio
in 1556, steps lead up to a
26 m (85 ft) hill that offers
sweeping views over the city.
On the hill is the 16th-century
castle, now the Musei Civici e
Galleria di Storia e Arte Antica,
which houses fine art and
archaeology collections.
Southeast of Piazza Matteotti, at
the end of Via Savorgnana where
a small market is held, stands the
Oratorio della Purità, and the
Duomo with its octagonal bell
tower. Both contain important
paintings and frescoes by
Giambattista Tiepolo (1696–1770).
More of Tiepolo’s work can be
seen in the Museo Diocesano e
Galleria Tiepolo, formerly the
Palazzo Arcivescovile, which the
Lago di Sauris, an artificial lake lying in the Carnic Alps above Tolmezzo artist decorated with frescoes.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp562–5 and pp580–84


166-167_EW_Italy.indd 166 4/4/17 5:33 PM
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Catalogue template “UK” LAYER
(Source v1.2)
Date 12th June 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm

THE VENE T O AND FRIULI І 167


E Museo Archeologico
Nazionale
Palazzo dei Provveditori Veneti, Pza del
Duomo 13. Tel 0432 70 07 00. Open
9am–1:30pm Mon, 8:30am–7:30pm Tue–
Sun. Closed 1 Jan, 1 May, 25 Dec. & 7
E Museo Cristiano
Via Condotti 1. Tel 0432 73 04 03.
Open Wed–Sun. Closed 1 Jan,
25 Dec. & 7 ∑ mucris.it
i Gorizia
* 37,000. V @ n Corso Italia 9
(0481 53 57 64). ( Thu, Fri.
∑ turismofvg.it
The arcaded Porticato di San Giovanni on Piazza della Libertà, Udine
Gorizia was at the centre of
Environs Archeologico Nazionale, fierce fighting during both
Outside Codroipo, 24 km which contains the excavated world wars and was split in two
(15 miles) west, rises the imposing remains of buildings from a by the 1947 Treaty of Paris,
Villa Manin. A road passes Roman town, and a collection leaving part in Italy, part in
through the villa’s grounds, of Lombardic items including Yugoslavia (now Slovenia).
so it can be seen even when jewelry, ivory and weapons. The town’s arcaded streets
the house – once the retreat of Next door is the Duomo, and pastel-painted houses have
Ludovico Manin, the last doge rebuilt in 1453 after a fire, with been carefully restored following
of Venice (1725–1802) – and its its beautiful silver altarpiece substantial damage during
gardens are closed to the public. (13th century). The Museo World War II. The modern Museo
Cristiano, off the south aisle, Provinciale della Grande Guerra
E Musei Civici e Galleria di contains sculptures from the (Museum of the Great War),
Storia e Arte Antica original church: of particular housed in the basement of the
Castello di Udine. Tel 0432 27 15 91. interest is the altar Museo Provinciale di Storia e
Open Tue–Sun. Closed 1 Jan, Easter, donated by Ratchis, the Arte, provides a fascinating
1 May, 25 Dec. & 7 ^ Lombardic Duke of introduction to the
P Museo Diocesano e Friuli and later King realities of war. Videos,
Galleria Tiepolo of Italy (737–44), photographs, and life-
Piazza Patriarcato 1. Tel 0432 29 80 56. which is finely size mock-ups of
Open Wed–Mon. Closed 1 Jan, Easter, carved with scenes trenches, latrines
25 Dec. & 7 = from the Life of The Lion of Venice above the and gun emplace-
P Villa Manin Christ. There is entrance to Gorizia’s castle ments are used to
Piazza del Doge, Passariano. Tel 0432 in addition the show the waste,
82 12 10. Open Tue–Sun. Closed 1 Jan, unusual baptismal font of squalor and heroism of war.
25 Dec. & for exhibitions only. 7 Patriarch Callisto (737–56): this Rooms on the upper floor of
octagonal structure, with a roof the museum house temporary
supported by pillars, is decorated exhibitions and items from the
u Cividale del Friuli with symbols of the Evangelists. town’s art collection.
On a mound nearby rises the
* 11,000. V @ n Piazza Paolo R Tempietto Longobardo castle, encircled by 16th-century
Diacono 10 (0432 71 04 60). ( Sat. Via Monastero Maggiore 34. Tel 0432
∑ cividale.net fortifications. From here there
70 08 67. Open daily. & ^ are views over the town.
A gate in the medieval walls
of Cividale leads down the Environs
main street and straight to the Southwest of Gorizia, scenic
dramatic ravine of the River country roads pass through the
Natisone, which is spanned foothills of the Carso, a limestone
by the arch of the Ponte del plateau stretching down to
Diavolo (Devil’s Bridge). Trieste. The plateau is dotted
Above the river’s north with fields enclosed by dry stone
bank stands the Tempietto walls and gouged with tunnels,
Longobardo (Lombardic caves and underground rivers.
Chapel), a very rare example of
an 8th-century church decorated E Museo Provinciale di
with reliefs of saints, modeled Storia e Arte
in stucco. The town’s history is Interior view of the Tempietto Longobardo Borgo Castello 13. Tel 0481 53 39 26.
traced in the excellent Museo in Cividale del Friuli Open Tue–Sun. Closed 25 Dec. & ^




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168 І NOR THEAST IT AL Y


craftsmanship that flourished in
the city from the 2nd century AD.
Additional examples of
mosaics and stone carvings
from the 1st to 3rd centuries
are on display in this museum,
together with glass, amber and
a collection of flies, beautifully
worked in gold, that formed
the adornment of a Roman
matron’s veil.

E Museo Paleocristiano
Località Monastero. Tel 0431 911 31.
Open 8:30am–1:45pm Thu. 7 ^
This museum, which stands
not far from Aquileia’s ancient
The attractive harbourside at Grado, along the coast south of Aquileia harbour beside the once-
navigable River Natissa, focuses
o Aquileia T Basilica on the development of art
Piazza Capitolo. Tel 0431 91 97 19. Open during the early Christian era.
* 3,300. @ n Via Julia Augusta daily. Closed during Mass. Crypt & 7
(0431 91 94 91). ( Tue.
∑ turismofvg.it The Basilica was founded in Environs
about AD 313 and much of the South of Udine, Palmanova is
Aquileia, now little more than original structure still survives, worth a visit for its remarkable
a village but encircled by the including the floor mosaics of octagonal layout and intact walls.
ruins of palatial villas, baths, the nave and Cripta degli Scavi The town was built in 1593 by
temples and market buildings, below. The designs mix biblical the Venetians to commemorate
provides a poignant reminder stories, geometric patterns and the Battle of Lepanto.
of the lost splendour of the scenes from everyday life in Grado sits on a group of low
Roman Empire. ancient Aquileia. There is a lively islands in the middle of the
It was here that Emperor portrayal of the tale of Jonah, Adriatic lagoon, attached to the
Augustus received Herod the who was swallowed by an mainland by a narrow causeway.
Great, King of Judea, in 10 BC, extraordinary sea monster: the The town grew into a port for
and it was here, too, in AD 381, fishing boats are also surrounded Aquileia in the 2nd century and
that the early Christian church by a rich array of creatures from was used as a haven by
held a major council attended by the deep, including wide-eyed Aquileia’s citizens during the
the learned saints Ambrose and dolphins and squid. barbarian invasions. Today,
Jerome to settle doctrinal issues. Grado is a pop ular sea side resort.
In the 5th century, however, E Museo Archeologico At the centre of the old town is
the town was abandoned Nazionale the Duomo, which contains
following several sackings. Via Roma 1. Tel 0431 910 16. 6th-century frescoes in the apse,
Fortunately, substantial parts Open 8:30am–7:30pm Tue–Sun. & similar to those on the vaults of
of the early Christian Basilica 7 ^ ∑ museoarcheologico San Marco in Venice (see pp114–
have survived, which contain aquileia.beniculturali.it 17). Nearby, in the church of
the town’s particular treasure: The mosaics in the Basilica Santa Maria delle Grazie, there
ornate floor mosaics. demonstrate a tradition of are more 6th-century mosaics.
Symbolism in Early
Christian Art
Christians were persecuted
until their religion was granted
official status by Constantine
the Great in AD 313. Prior to
this they had developed a
language of secret symbols to
express their beliefs, many of
which can be seen in the The winged figure of Victory
mosaics and marble tomb holding a laurel wreath was a
chests of Aquileia. Many of Classical symbol of triumph and
these and other symbols later holiness. Later, it came to represent
found their way into popular Part of the 4th-century floor mosaic in the Christ’s resurrection and, more
bestiaries and folk art. Basilica at Aquileia generally, victory over death.

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp562–5 and pp580–84


168-169_EW_Italy.indd 168 4/4/17 5:33 PM
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Date 12th June 2012
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THE VENE T O AND FRIULI І 169

p Trieste museums containing Roman
mosaics, and a collection of
* 218,000. k V @ n Via
dell’Orologio 1 (040 347 83 12). weapons and armour.
( Tue–Sat. ∑ turismofvg.it
R Basilica Paleocristiana
Trieste is an atmospheric city Via Madonna del Mare 11. Tel 040 426
next to Slovenia, with a long, 14 11. Open 10am–noon Wed; other
bustling harbour lined with times by appointment only.
hand some buildings and lapped Beside the castle lie the
by the waves of the Adriatic Sea. substantial ruins of the Roman
Basilica or law court built
E Acquario Marino around AD 100. Note the stone
Molo Pescheria 2, Riva Nazario Sauro magistrates’ bench and throne.
1. Tel 040 30 62 01. Open 9am–7pm
Thu–Tue (Nov–Mar: to 1:30pm). & 7 R Duomo 13th-century mosaics in the apse
The aquarium, one of Trieste’s Piazza Cattedrale 2. Tel 040 322 45 75. of San Giusto, Trieste’s Duomo
most popular attractions, contains Open daily. 7
examples of the fascinating In the church of San Giusto, the Environs
marine life in the Adriatic. city’s Duomo, magistrates’ bench From Villa Opicina, just north of
and throne of the Roman Basilica Trieste, sweeping views may be
+ Castello di San Giusto were reinterpreted to become had over the city, its bay and
Piazza Cattedrale 3. Tel 040 30 93 62. the seat of the bishop and south down the coast of
Open Castle & Museums: 10am–5pm clergy. Because the building was Slovenia. A little beyond, at
Tue–Sun (May–Sep: to 7pm); Grounds: formed in the 14th century by Borgo Grotta Gigante, lies the
9am–5pm daily (May–Sep: to 7pm). & linking two 5th-century churches Grotta del Gigante, a huge
Up above the harbour stands a that stood side by side, there are cavern filled with stunning
hilltop castle built by Trieste’s two thrones and benches here. “organ pipe” formations and tall
Venetian governors from 1368. The two apses are decorated columns of stalagmites.
It is set on a terrace that offers with very fine 13th-century At Grignano, 8 km (5 miles)
sweeping views over the Gulf of mosaics in the Venetian style. northwest of the city, stands the
Trieste. The castle houses two Castello di Miramare, a white
E Museo di castle set in lush green gardens
Storia ed Arte ed beside the sparkling blue
Orto Lapidario Adriatic. It was built by the
Pza della Cattedrale 1. Habsburg Archduke Maximilian
Tel 040 31 05 00. Open in 1856–60 as his summer retreat,
10am–1pm, 4–7pm a few years before he was
Tue–Sat; 10am–7pm assassinated in Mexico. It is still
Sun (Nov–Mar: 10am– furnished in contemporary style.
5pm daily). Closed
1 Jan & 25 Dec. & } Grotta del Gigante
The archaeological Borgo Grotta Gigante 42a.
collection here Tel 040 32 73 12. Open Tue–Sun
documents Trieste’s (Jul & Aug: daily). & 8
extensive trade links + Castello di Miramare
with the ancient Viale Miramare, Grignano. Tel 040 22
The Castello di Miramare on the bay of Trieste Greek world. 41 43. Open daily. 7 & (castle).











The tortoise hiding in his shell ICHTHUS, or fish, was an Colourful birds, such as
represented darkness and acronym for Iesous CHristos peacocks, symbolized immor-
ignorance, while the cockerel, THeou Uios Soter – Jesus tality and the glorious
who crows at dawn, signified Christ, Son of God, Saviour, in transformation of the soul
light and enlightenment. ancient Greek. when it arrives in Heaven.





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170-171_EW_Italy.indd 170 4/4/17 5:33 PM
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(SourceReport v1.1)
Date 20th August 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm

NOR THEAST IT AL Y  171

TRENTINO-ALTO

ADIGE


The Italian-speaking Trentino – named after Trento, the
regional capital – and the German-speaking Alto Adige
or Südtirol (South Tyrol, the region bordering the upper
reaches of the River Adige) differ dramatically in culture.
However, they do share one feature in common: the majestic
Dolomites that form the backdrop to every town and village,
covered in snow for three months of every year and carpeted
with exquisite Alpine plants for another three.
The region’s mountains have been cut by of Tyrol, whose land (later appropriated
glaciers into a series of deep, broad valleys. by the Habsburgs) straddled both sides
Many of these face south, so it remains of today’s Italy-Austria border. The
unusually warm and sunny, even in Tyrolean nobility built the castles that
winter. Travellers have passed up and still line the valleys and the mountain
down these valleys for generations – as passes, in order to protect travellers
confirmed by the extraordinary discovery from brigands.
of a 5,000-year-old man’s body in 1991, Another ancient legacy is the tradition
found emerging from the surface of a of hospitality to be found in the numerous
melting glacier in Alto Adige. The frozen guesthouses along the valleys. Many of
corpse wore leather boots, stuffed with these are built in the distinctive Tyrolean
hay for warmth, and was armed with a style, with beautiful timber balconies for
copper ice pick. making the most of the winter sun, and
The paths that Neolithic man once overhanging roof eaves to keep snow at
trod became major road networks under a distance. Cosy in winter, with log fires
the Romans, when many of the region’s and warming food, and offering
cities were founded. By the Middle Ages, marvellous views, they make the ideal
Alto Adige had established its very own base for enjoying the region’s mountain
distinctive culture under the Counts footpaths and ski slopes.






















Skiers enjoying the slopes around Monte Spinale, near Madonna di Campiglio in Trentino
Trekkers climbing the glowing peaks of the Rosengarten mountain range in the Dolomites, South Tyrol



170-171_EW_Italy.indd 171 4/4/17 5:33 PM

172  NOR THEAST IT AL Y

Exploring Trentino-Alto Adige Vetta d’Italia
2912m
Trentino-Alto Adige is a region where unspoiled nature is Innsbruck Passo del Brennero Monte Lovello Casere
3378m
complemented by a wealth of sporting opportunities. The tributary Brennero Cadipietra
valleys feeding into the Adige valley contain lakes, rivers and streams, San Giacomo
and also woodland, vineyards and Alpine pasture full of butterflies, Alpi Breonie A l p i A u r i n e Riva di Tures
Colle Isarco
birds and flowers. Southeast of the region rise Lappago Campo Tures
the distinctive limestone peaks of the Landeck VIPITENO Passo di Croce Domini
3134m
Monte Gruppo
Dolomites, while further north the Passo Moso in Passiria Mules 2809m Anterselva
area becomes more mountainous Resia di Resia Melago Rio di
still, enclosed finally by the splendid di Resia Curon Venosta San Leonardo Fortezza Pusteria Rienza BRUNICO
Lago
in Passiria
heights of the Alps. Riobianco Pennes Castello Monguelfo
A l p i Ve n o s t e
Abbazia di l’Altissima Abbazia di Rodengo
Dobbiaco
Monte Maria Senales 3480m Cima San di Novacella V a l P u s t e r i a San Candido
Giacomo
Lienz
MALLES
2084m
VENOSTA Monte Alto Tirolo Punta Cervina 2741m Castello di BRESSANONE Marebbe Lago di Sesto
Plancios
Castel Coira 3260m Velturno Isarco Braies
Glorenza MERANO Sarentino Santa Cima Dieci
Silandro Adige Chiusa Maddalena 3023m
Prato allo Laces Guardia Alta Lana Avelengo Ponte Pedraces
Stelvio 2608m Gardena ORTISEI Cortina d‘Ampezzo
Selva di Val
Passo TRENTINO- Gardena o m i t i c h e Belluno
dello Stelvio
Trafoi Siusi Corvara
Solda BOLZANO A l p i d i
Senale
Ortles Santa Monte degli Olmi S i u s i
Bormio 3899m Gertrude 2656m o l
Monte Cevedale Appiano Nova CANAZEI
3757m Marcena Malosco Levante Vigo D

Bagni di Rabbi Laives di Fassa Marmolada
Revò Caldaro 3343m
AL TO ADIGE Moena i
Pejo p
Dimaro Cles Ora Avisio A l
Tuenno San Predazzo
Lugano
Vermiglio Noce Dermulo Tesero Bellamonte
Via Ponte Aquila in Bressanone Capriano CAVALESE SAN MARTINO
Alpe Tognola
Sondrio MADONNA Catena dei Lagorai DI CASTROZZA
2163m
Sights at a Glance DI CAMPIGLIO Mezzolombardo CEMBRA Fiera di Primiero
1 Malles Venosta Sarca Cascate Pinzolo Cima Brenta Piramidi di
3150m
Segonzano
(Mals im Vinschgau) di Nardis Cima Tosa Andalo Monte Croce Imer
2488m
2 Merano (Meran) A d a m e l l o 3159m Molveno Paganella Lavis Baselga di Pinè
Lago di
3 Vipiteno (Sterzing) 2125m
4 Brunico (Bruneck) Stenico Vezzano TRENTO Pergine Castello
Valsugana
Tesino
5 Bressanone (Brixen) Va l S u ga n a
Borgo
Valsugana
6 Bolzano (Bozen) Re di Castello Tione Sarche Vason Levico Terme Grigno
di Trento
2885m
7 Ortisei (Sankt Ulrich) Brenta Padova
Vincenza
Lardaro
8 Canazei V a l l i G i u d i c a r i e Castel Caldonazzo
Lavarone
9 Cavalese Monte Cadria Dro Calliano Beseno
2254m
0 San Martino di Castrozza Tenno Arco
q Cembra Tiarno Riva ROVERETO
w Madonna di Campiglio del Garda
e Trento Storo Torbole Ruina
Dantesca
r Rovereto Brentonico
t Castello di Avio Raossi Vicenza
CASTELLO
DI AVIO Ala
Key
Motorway Minor railway
Major road International border Verona
Secondary road Regional border
Minor road Summit
0 kilometres 25
Scenic route
0 miles 10
Main railway
For additional map symbols see back flap
172-173_EW_Italy.indd 172 26/04/16 5:15 pm
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Date 6th August 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm

TRENTINO-AL T O ADIGE  173

Vetta d’Italia
2912m
Casere
Monte Lovello
Innsbruck Passo del Brennero 3378m
Cadipietra
Brennero San Giacomo
Alpi Breonie A l p i A u r i n e Campo Tures Riva di Tures
Colle Isarco
Lappago
3134m
Landeck VIPITENO Passo di Croce Domini
Monte Gruppo
Passo Mules 2809m Anterselva
di Resia Moso in Passiria
Resia Melago Rio di
Lago Curon Venosta San Leonardo Pusteria Rienza BRUNICO
di Resia in Passiria Fortezza Monguelfo
A l p i Ve n o s t e Senales 3480m Punta Cervina Cima San Lienz
Abbazia di l’Altissima Riobianco Pennes Abbazia Castello
di Rodengo
Dobbiaco
Monte Maria di Novacella V a l P u s t e r i a San Candido
Giacomo
MALLES
2741m
VENOSTA Monte Alto Tirolo 2084m Castello di BRESSANONE Marebbe Lago di Sesto
Plancios
Castel Coira 3260m Velturno Isarco Braies
Glorenza MERANO Sarentino Santa Cima Dieci
Silandro Adige Chiusa Maddalena 3023m
Prato allo Laces Guardia Alta Lana Avelengo Ponte Pedraces
Stelvio 2608m Gardena ORTISEI Cortina d‘Ampezzo
Selva di Val
Passo TRENTINO- Gardena o m i t i c h e Belluno
dello Stelvio
Trafoi Siusi Corvara
Solda BOLZANO A l p i d i
Senale
Ortles Santa Monte degli Olmi S i u s i
Bormio 3899m Gertrude 2656m o l
Monte Cevedale Appiano Nova CANAZEI
3757m Marcena Malosco Levante Vigo D

Bagni di Rabbi Laives di Fassa Marmolada
Revò Caldaro 3343m
AL TO ADIGE Moena i
Pejo p
Dimaro Cles Ora Avisio A l
Tuenno San Predazzo
Lugano
Vermiglio Noce Dermulo Tesero Bellamonte
Capriano CAVALESE SAN MARTINO
Sondrio MADONNA Catena dei Lagorai DI CASTROZZA
Alpe Tognola
DI CAMPIGLIO Mezzolombardo 2163m
CEMBRA Fiera di Primiero
Cima Brenta Piramidi di
Pinzolo 3150m Segonzano
Andalo Monte Croce Imer
Sarca Cascate
di Nardis Cima Tosa Lavis 2488m
3159m Lago di Paganella Baselga di Pinè
Molveno 2125m
A d a m e l l o
Pergine Castello
Stenico Vezzano TRENTO Valsugana Tesino The Val di Funes, South Tyrol
V a l l i G i u d i c a r i e Dro Calliano Beseno Caldonazzo Vincenza
Borgo
Valsugana
Re di Castello Tione Sarche Vason Va l S u ga n a Grigno
2885m di Trento Levico Terme Brenta Padova
Lardaro
Castel
Lavarone
Monte Cadria
2254m
Arco
Tenno
Tiarno
The region’s main artery is the Brenner
Riva ROVERETO Getting Around
del Garda
Torbole Pass road: it runs from Austria in the
Storo Ruina north, following the River Adige from
Dantesca
Brentonico
Bolzano to Trento, and southwards
Raossi Vicenza on to Verona. Both the motorway and
CASTELLO the main road beside it are among
DI AVIO Ala the busiest in Europe, and the valley
roads can also be congested during
the ski season. Winter driving can be
Verona hazardous, requiring special tyres
and snow chains. An excellent rail and
coach network serves the whole area.
The snow-covered Dolomites viewed from Madonna di Campiglio
172-173_EW_Italy.indd 173 26/04/16 5:15 pm

174 І NOR THEAST IT AL Y


its way through the town.
The Passeg giata Lungo Passirio
d’Inverno (Winter Walk) follows
the north bank to the Roman
bridge, Ponte Romano; the
Passeggiata d’Estate (Summer
Walk) on the south bank leads
to the medieval Ponte Passirio.
Environs
The romantic 12th-century
Castel Tirolo lies 4 km (2.5 miles)
to the north. It hosts a museum
of Tyrolean history.
The grounds of Castel
Trauttmansdorff house a
fascinating botanical garden.
Abbazia di Monte Maria, founded in the 12th century, near Malles Venosta
+ Castello Principesco
1 Malles Venosta R Abbazia di Monte Maria Via Galilei. Tel 3290 18 63 90.
Mals Im Vinschgau Tel 0473 83 13 06 (abbey); 0473 84 39 Open Tue–Sun & public hols. Closed
80 (museum). Open mid-Mar–Oct: 7 Jan–Easter. & 8
* 4,600. V @ n Via San Mon–Sat; Nov–Apr: groups by appt
Benedetto 1 (0473 83 11 90). ( Wed. only. Closed public hols. & 8 + Castel Tirolo
∑ altavenosta-vacanze.it Via Castello 24, Tirolo. Tel 0473 22 02
2 Merano 21. Open mid Mar–10 Dec: Tue–Sun.
Malles Venosta sits in high border Closed Dec–mid-Mar. & 7 = -
country, close to Switzerland Meran ∑ schlosstirol.it
and Austria, and was a customs * 35,000. V @ n Corso della + Castel Trauttmansdorff
point during the Middle Ages. Libertà 45 (0473 27 20 00). ( Tue, Fri. Via S. Valentino 51a. Tel 0473 25 56 00.
The town has several Gothic ∑ meran.eu Open 1 Apr–15 Nov: daily. & 9 8
churches, whose spires and 0 ∑ trauttmansdorff.it
towers give an appealing skyline, Merano is an attractive spa
mirroring the jagged peaks that town popular with Austrians,
rise all around. The oldest is the Germans and Italians. On Corso 3 Vipiteno
tiny church of San Benedetto, della Libertà, a street of smart Sterzing
a 9th-century Carolingian shops and hotels, stands the * 5,600. V @ n Piazza Città 3
building on Via San Benedetto, Kurhaus or Spa Hall built in 1914, (0472 76 53 25). ( daily.
with frescoes of its patrons. now a concert venue. Furnished
in period style, the 15th-century Surrounded by mineral-rich
Environs Castello Principesco was home valleys, Vipiteno is very Tyrolean
The medieval Castel Coira to the Habsburg Archduke in feel. On Via Città Nuova, lined
(Churburg) rises at Sluderno Sigismund. Inviting gardens line with fine mansions, rise the
(Schluderns), 4 km (2.5 miles) the River Passirio, which winds Gothic Palazzo Comunale,
southeast of Malles. It contains containing Renaissance sculpture
an excellent collection of and paintings, and the Torre dei
weapons and armour. Dodici, the symbol of the town.
Clinging to the mountainside Wood carvings in the Museo
above the town of Burgusio Multscher are by Hans Multscher;
(Burgeis), 5 km (3 miles) north the Bavarian sculptor came to
of Malles, is the Benedictine Vipiteno in 1456–8 to carve the
Abbazia di Monte Maria altar for the parish church, which
(Marienberg), founded in the lies just south of the town.
12th century but enlarged in To the west, the charming Val
the 18th and 19th. The church’s di Racines includes waterfalls
crypt shelters an outstanding and a natural rock bridge.
series of 12th-century frescoes.
The glorious medieval town P Palazzo Comunale
of Glorenza lies just 2 km Via Città Nuova 21. Tel 0472 72 37 00.
(1 mile) south of Malles. Open Mon–Fri. Closed Fri pm &
public hols.
+ Castel Coira E Museo Multscher
Churburg, Sluderno. Tel 0473 61 51 13. Via della Commenda 11. Tel 0472 76
Open 20 Mar–Oct: Tue–Sun (& Mon if The Art Nouveau façade of the Kurhaus 64 64. Open Apr–Oct: Tue–Sat.
pub hol). 8 compulsory. & in Merano Closed public hols. &
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp562–5 and pp580–84


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Date 13th June 2012
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TRENTINO-AL T O ADIGE І 175


buildings with out standing
cloister frescoes. Further north
up the valley, at Rio di Pusteria
(Mühlbach), the remains of a
16th-century fortified barrier
can be seen to the east of the
town. The barrier funnelled
ancient travellers through the
customs post that divided Tyrol
from the Görz district.
High above Rio di Pusteria,
to the southeast, looms the
massive outline of the Castello
di Rodengo (Rodeneck). The
The medieval castle dominating the town of Brunico castle contains wonderful
13th-century frescoes showing
4 Brunico but retains its 12th-century battle scenes, the Last Judgment
Bruneck cloister, deco rated with superb and courtly episodes from the
15th-century frescoes. The lavish Iwein romance by Hartmann
* 13,000. V @ n Piazza
Municipio 7 (0474 55 57 22). ( Wed. interiors of Palazzo Vescovile, von Aue, the medieval poet.
∑ bruneck.com the bishops’ Renaissance palace,
house the Museo Diocesano. E Museo Diocesano &
This attractive town, overlooked It contains precious items from Museo dei Presepi
by the imposing form of the Middle Ages, as well as the Piazza Palazzo Vescovile 2. Tel 0472 83
its medieval castle, Museo dei Presepi, with 05 05. Museo Diocesano: Open 10am–
retains 14th-century its collection of 5pm Tue–Sun. Closed Nov, 8 Jan–mid-
fortifications and a wooden crib figures Mar. Museo dei Presepi: Open
network of narrow that are carved locally. 10am–5pm Tue–Sun (Dec–6 Jan:
open daily). Closed 24 & 25 Dec.
streets that can only & ∑ hofburg.it
be explored on foot. Environs
The church of St At Velturno (Feldthurns), + Castello di Velturno
Ursula, to the St Ursula’s Gate sundial, just 8 km (5 miles) Velturno. Tel 0472 85 55 25.
northwest of St Ursula’s Brunico southwest, stands the Open Mar–Nov: Tue–Sun. 8 only.
Gate, holds a series of Renaissance Castello & ∑ castelvelturno.it
outstanding mid-15th-century di Velturno, the summer retreat R Abbazia di Novacella
altar reliefs of the Nativity. The of the rulers of Bressanone, Via Abbazia 1/2b, Varna. Tel 0472 83
Museo Etnografico di Teodone noted for its frescoed rooms. A 61 89. Open Mon–Sat. Closed Mon
offers displays of traditional little over 3 km (2 miles) north (Jan–Mar) & pub hols. 8 only. &
agricultural life and local of Bressanone lies the Abbazia + Castello di Rodengo
costumes; this folklore museum di Novacella, a picturesque Rodengo. Tel 0472 45 40 56.
also provides an ideal oppor- group of fortified monastic Open Jun–Oct: Sun–Fri. 8 &
tunity to visit a 16th-century
farmhouse and barn.
E Museo Etnografico di Teodone
Via Duca Diet 24, Teodone. Tel 0474 55
20 87. Open Easter–Oct: Tue–Sat, Sun
and pub hols pm (Aug: also Mon). &
7 0 ∑ volkskundemuseum.it

5 Bressanone
Brixen
* 18,000. V @ n Viale Ratisbona
9 (0472 83 64 01). ( Mon.
∑ brixen.org
The narrow medieval alleys of
Bressanone cluster around the
cathedral and the palace of the
prince-bishops who ruled the
town for much of its history. The
Duomo, on Piazza del Duomo,
was rebuilt in the 18th century The cloisters of Bressanone Duomo with their 15th-century frescoes




174-175_EW_Italy.indd 175 4/4/17 5:33 PM

176 І NOR THEAST IT AL Y


archaeology) and in the church
of St Ulrich.
To the south is the Alpe di
Siusi (Seiser Alm) region, noted
for Alpine meadows, balconied
farmsteads and onion-domed
churches. The best way to
explore this beautiful area is by
cableway from Ortisei: to the
northeast, a cable car runs to
2,518-m- (8,260-ft-) high Monte
Seceda, and walks from here
lead into the Odle Dolomites.
E Museo della Val Gardena
The Baroque interior of the church of St Ulrich in Ortisei Via Rezia 83. Tel 0471 79 75 54. Open
7 Jan–Mar: Tue–Fri; mid-May–Oct:
6 Bolzano Ötzi, the famous 5,000-year-old Mon–Fri (Jul & Aug: Mon–Sat); 26
Bozen “Iceman”. The Chiesa dei Dec–6 Jan: daily. Closed 31 Dec, 1 Jan.
Domenicani (Dominican church), & ∑ museumgherdeina.it
* 98,000. V @ n Piazza Walther 8 on Piazza Domenicani, has
(0471 30 70 00). ( Mon–Sat.
∑ bolzano-bozen.it 14th-century Triumph of Death
frescoes and a frescoed cloister. 8 Canazei
Bolzano, the capital of the Alto * 1,800. @ n Piazza Marconi 5
Adige, is the gateway between E Museo Archeologico (0462 60 96 00). ( Sat (Jul–Sep).
the Italian-speaking Trentino Via Museo 43. Tel 0471 32 01 00. ∑ fassa.com
region and the German-speaking Open Tue–Sun (Jul, Aug & Dec: daily).
Alto Adige, or Südtirol, and has a Closed 1 Jan, 1 May, 25 Dec. & 9 Located at the base of some of
marked Tyrolean atmosphere. = ∑ iceman.it the highest and most awe-inspir-
The old centre, Piazza Walther, is ing groups of peaks, Canazei is a
dominated by the 15th-century good base for exploring the Dolo-
Gothic Duomo, with its 7 Ortisei mites. In summer, chairlifts climb
multicoloured mosaic- Sankt Ulrich to viewpoints where the beauty
patterned roof and * 4,500. @ n Via Rezia 1 (0471 77 of the encircling moun tains can
elaborate spire. 76 00). ( Fri. ∑ valgardena.it be appreciated to the full. The
The “wine door” most popular viewpoints are
inside the Duomo is Ortisei is the prosperous main Pecol and Col dei Rossi, reached
carved with resort for the pretty Val Gardena by the Belvedere cable way from
figures at work and Alpe di Siusi region, and a Via Pareda in Canazei: the cliffs
among vines major centre for wood carving; of the Sella group are visible to
and reflects the examples of local craftsmanship the north, with Sasso Lungo to
importance of may be seen in local shops, in the west and Marmolada, the
wine to the local the Museo della Val Gardena highest of the Dolomites at
economy. In the (which also focuses on local 3,343 m (10,965 ft), to the south.
middle of Piazza
The Duomo spire, Walther is a
Bolzano statue of Walther
von der
Vogelweide, the 13th-century
troubadour – born, according to
legend, in this area. North of the
square, the streets are lined with
houses adorned with intricate
gables, balconies and oriel
windows. The outdoor market,
starting at Piazza Grano, displays
an inviting array of local produce
that continues along the arcaded
Via dei Portici. The modern
Museo Archeologico houses
impressive finds from the Stone
Age, the Bronze Age, the Iron
Age, Roman times and the time
of Charlemagne. A key exhibit is Skiers enjoying views of the Dolomites above Canazei
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp562–5 and pp580–84


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TRENTINO-AL T O ADIGE І 177


Environs
At Vigo di Fassa, 13 km (8 miles)
southwest, the Museo Ladino
focuses on the Ladin-speaking
people of some of the valleys.
Ladin – a Rhaeto-Romance
language – is taught in local
schools, and traditions thrive.
E Museo Ladino
Località San Giovanni, Vigo di Fassa.
Tel 0462 76 01 82. Open Tue–Sat am &
pm (Jun–mid-Sep: daily). Closed 1 Jan,
1 May, 1–9 Jun, Nov, 25 Dec. & 8 7
= ∑ istladin.net Vines growing on the terraced slopes of the Cembra valley

1450, has a flurry of Gothic vault- woodland. San Martino is
ing, and a modern representation almost entirely surrounded by
of the Crucifixion painted against forest, which once supplied the
a background of the village. Venetian Republic with timber
At Predazzo, about 13 km for ships. The forest is now
(8 miles) east, the Museo protected, and as a result it is
Geologico delle Dolomiti possible to see Alpine flowers,
explains the local geology. mush rooms, birds and other
wildlife with relative ease.
P Palazzo della Magnifica
The frescoed façade of the Palazzo della Comunità
Magnifica Comunità, Cavalese Piazza Cesare Battisti 2. Tel 0462 34 03 q Cembra
65. Open Tue–Sun (mid-Sep–Nov &
9 Cavalese Jan–Jun by appt). & 8 7 * 2,500. @ n Piazza San Rocco 10
∑ palazzomagnifica.eu (0461 68 31 10). ( Wed am.
* 3,600. @ n Via Fratelli Bronzetti ∑ visitpinecembra.it
60 (0462 24 11 11). ( last Tue of E Museo Geologico delle Dolomiti
month (not Jul); smaller market Tue & Piazza SS Filippo e Giacomo 1. The wine-producing town of
Fri. ∑ visitfiemme.it Tel 0462 50 03 66. Open 10am– Cembra nestles on the terraced
12:30pm & 4–7pm Tue–Sun (mid- slopes of a scenic valley of
Cavalese is the chief town in Sep–Feb by appt). &∑ muse.it flower-filled villages. Some 6 km
the Val di Fiemme, a pretty (4 miles) east of Cembra stand
region of flower-filled aromatic the Piramidi di Segonzano, a
pastures, delightful wooded 0 San Martino di rare series of erosion pillars,
valleys and Tyrolean architec- Castrozza some over 30 m (100 ft) high,
ture. At the centre of the town each topped by a rock. The
stands the Palazzo della * 470. @ n Via Passo Rolle 165 footpath to the pillars is well
(0439 76 88 67). ( Tue (Jul & Aug).
Magnifica Comunità. Originally ∑ sanmartino.com signposted, with informative
built in the 1200s,, this was the noticeboards along the way
seat of the medieval governing The resort of San Martino explaining the formation of the
council which ruled the area as occupies one of the most scenic bizarre columns that look like
a semi-autonomous region. and accessible valleys giant termites’ nests.
Today the panelled interiors in the southern Their setting amid
contain medieval paintings by Dolomites, making it bird-filled woodland
local artists, and an archae- very popular with makes the steep
ology collection. Most visitors walkers and skiers. climb up to the site
come for the excellent summer Cable cars rise to the well worthwhile.
and winter resort facilities, and peak of Alpe Tognola A further reward is
to climb, by cable car, to the (2,163 m/7,095 ft), the fine view, from
2,229 m (7,311 ft) top of Alpe southwest of the the top of the hill,
Cermis, the mountain that rises town, and up the along the Cembra
to the south of the town. Cima della Rosetta valley and west-
(2,609 m/8,557 ft) to Piramidi di Segonzano, wards as far as the
Environs the east. Both offer near Cembra Brenta group
The church in Tesero, the next fabulous views of of Dolomites.
village east, bears a 15th-century the Pale di San Martino peaks, a
fresco by an unknown painter stirring sight as the massive rock } Piramidi di Segonzano
depicting Sabbath-breakers. peaks, split by glaciers, rise above Strada Statale 612 to Cavalese.
The church itself, dating back to a sea of green meadows and Open daily.




176-177_EW_Italy.indd 177 4/4/17 5:33 PM

178 І NOR THEAST IT AL Y

e Trento E Museo Diocesano
Tridentino
* 105,000. V @ n Piazza Duomo
24 (0461 21 60 00). ( Thu am. Piazza Duomo 18. Tel 0461 23 44 19.
∑ discovertrento.it Open Wed–Mon. Closed 1 & 6 Jan,
Easter, 26 Jun, 15 Aug, 1 Nov, 25 Dec.
Trento, the capital of the region & 7 ∑ museodiocesano
to which it gave its name, is the tridentino.it
most attractive town in Tren- This museum is housed in the
tino: it has a fine Romanesque Palazzo Pretorio, an imposing
cathedral and a richly decorated medieval building that stands
castle, and streets lined with on the eastern side of Piazza
Renaissance mansions. Trento Duomo. Its contents include
is noted as the venue for the early ivory reliquaries, Flemish
Council of Trent (1545–63), set tapestries and paintings
up by the Catholic Church to depicting the Council of Trent.
consider reforms that might
encourage breakaway groups, in + Castello del Buonconsiglio
particular the German Protes- Via Bernardo Clesio 5. Tel 0461 23 37
tants, to return to the fold. The 70. Open Tue–Sun (Jul & Aug: daily).
reforms, which Closed 1 Jan, 25 Dec.
ushered in the & = ∑ buon
period of the consiglio.it
Counter- This large castle,
Reformation, built in the 1200s
The impressive falls of the Cascate di Nardis, were only partly and later enlarged
Madonna di Campiglio successful. with addi tional
The Duomo, buildings, is part
w Madonna di site of some of the of the defences of
Campiglio Council meetings, the town. Trento
was begun in Inner courtyard of the was an important
* 1,300. @ n Via Pradalago 4 Roman esque style in Magno Palazzo frontier on the main
(0465 44 75 01). ( Jul & Aug: Tue the 1200s. It took road linking Italy to
& Thu. ∑ campigliodolomiti.it three centuries to complete, in northern Europe, and thick
1515, but the builders walls still encircle the town.
Madonna di Campiglio is the maintained architectural The southern section of
chief resort in the Val Meledrio. harmony by ignoring Gothic the castle consists of the
Nestling between the Brenta and Renaissance styles entirely. magnificent Magno Palazzo
and Adamello groups of peaks, The result is a church of unusual (1530), built for the ruling
it makes the perfect base for integrity. The Duomo stands on prince-bishops of Trento, who
walking or skiing amid the Piazza Duomo, the city’s main were given extensive powers
magnificent mountain terrain. square, which was first laid out by the Holy Roman Emperor to
Cableways radiate out from the by the Romans as their central foster loyalty and discourage
town in every direction, giving market place or forum. defection to the pope. The lavish
easy access to the peaks. Trento’s Roman name, decoration (including frescoes
Tridentum, is of virile satyrs and nymphs by
Environs commemorated Gerolamo Romanino, 1531–2)
The church at Pinzolo, 14 km in the figure of speaks of huge wealth and a
(9 miles) south, has a well- Neptune, who luxurious lifestyle. The palazzo
preserved fresco depicting a stands at the top houses the Museo Provinciale,
Dance of Death (1539). The inev- of the 18th- with paintings, ceramics
itable march of the figures, both century fountain, and 15th-century
rich and poor, is underlined by which stands in wood carvings, and
a text written in local dialect. the middle of the prehistoric, Etruscan
North of Pinzolo, the road main square. and Roman items.
west from Carisolo leads to
the verdant and popular, yet
unspoiled, Val Genova. About
4 km (2 miles) along the valley
is the spectacular Cascate di
Nardis, a waterfall that plunges
down 90 m (300 ft). The two
masses of rock at the bottom
are said to be the forms of
petrified demons. Palazzo Pretorio and the Duomo in Trento’s main square
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp562–5 and pp580–84


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TRENTINO-AL T O ADIGE І 179

E Museo Civico
Borgo Santa Caterina 41.
Tel 0464 45 28 00; Palazzo Alberti:
Corso Bettini 41. Tel 0464 45 28 00.
Open Tue–Sun. Closed 1 Jan, 5 Aug,
1 Nov, 25 Dec. & 7
∑ fondazionemcr.it
E MART
Corso Bettini 43. Tel 0464 43 88 87;
Casa d’Arte Futurista Depero:
Via Portici 38. Tel 0464 43 18 13.
Open Tue–Sun (Mon if public hol.
& 8 7 9 - 0
∑ mart.trento.it
The commanding form of the Ossario del Castel Dante in Rovereto
+ Castel Beseno
The Torre dell’ Aquila (Eagle Below the war museum is the Besenello. Tel 0464 83 46 00.
Tower) nearby contains frescoes Museo Civico, with its collec­ Open Mar–Oct: Tue–Sun (Mon if
painted around 1400 that depict tions on archaeology, art, natural public hol); Nov–Feb: Sat & Sun. &
∑ buonconsiglio.it
the months of the year. history and folklore. Another
branch, in Corso Bettini, houses
Environs a collection of sculpture by Carlo
Immediately to the west of Trento Fait. The Mario Botta­designed
a scenic round trip along a wind­ Museo di Arte Contemporanea
ing road leads up the north flank di Trento e Rovereto (MART)
of Monte Bondone and back, showcases 20th­century Italian
via Vezzano, down the western art. A second site, in Via Portici,
slopes. The views along the holds Italian Futurist art.
route are magnificent, in par­
ticular from Vaneze and Vason. Environs
East of Trento, Pergine marks the A little over 8 km (5 miles) north
start of the Val Sugana, a broad of Rovereto is Castel Beseno,
valley with lakes. In the hills rising on a hill to the east. This Castello di Avio in its lush setting
north of Lake Levico lies the enormous castle was built and
spa town of Levico Terme, rebuilt from the 12th century to t Castello di Avio
distinguished by elegant Neo­ the 18th to guard the junction Via Castello, Sabbionara d’Avio. Tel
Classical buildings set amid of the three valleys. 0464 68 44 53. @ V to Vo, then 3­km
beautifully wooded parkland. Five kilometres (3 miles) south (2­mile) walk. Open Mar–Sep: 10am–
of Rovereto, the main road passes 6pm Wed–Sun (open Tue in Aug); Oct–
through a valley littered with Nov: 10am–5pm Wed–Sun; Mon and
r Rovereto massive boulders created by land­ Tue if public hol. Closed 3rd week of
slips: these are known as Lavini Nov–Feb. & = - 0
* 33,000. V @ n Corso Rosmini
16 (0464 43 03 63). ( Tue. di Marco or Ruina Dantesca,
∑ visitrovereto.it because they are mentioned in Castles line the Adige valley to
Dante’s Inferno (XII, 4–9). the Brenner Pass, but few are as
Rovereto was at the centre of Fossilized dinosaur footprints accessible as the Castello di Avio.
fierce fighting during World War I, have been discovered there. It was founded in the 11th
after which the Venetian castle century, extended in the 13th,
(built in 1416) that dominates the E Museo Storico Italiano and today offers far­reaching
town was transformed into the della Guerra views. Among the many frescoes
Museo Storico Italiano della Via Castelbarco 7. Tel 0464 43 81 00. is a series in the Casa delle
Guerra, a war museum. The dis­ Open Tue–Sun. Closed public hols. & Guardie (Sentry House) depicting
plays include sections on wartime ∑ museodellaguerra.it 13th­century battle scenes.
humour, propaganda and spying.
Near the museum entrance,
stairs lead out on to the castle
roof for a view of the imposing
Ossario del Castel Dante.
Some distance away is the
Campana dei Caduti (Bell of the
Fallen), which was cast from
melted­down cannons at the end
of World War II and mounted in
an imposing building above the
town; it is rung daily at sunset. The extensive walls enclosing Castel Beseno above Rovereto




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Date 6th September 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm

Northwest


Italy





Introducing Northwest
Italy 182–189
Lombardy 190–213

Valle d’Aosta and
Piedmont 214–233
Liguria 234–247














































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182  Nor T hwes T I TA L y

Introducing Northwest Italy

The northwest of Italy is made up of three very different geological
regions: the jagged Alps, the flat plain and the undulating shoreline
of the Mediterranean. This is one of the country’s most prosperous
areas, with much of its fortune made in the major cities of Genoa,
Milan and Turin. The northwest is also known for its beautiful lakes,
wild national parks and elegant historic homes. The major sights,
in the regions of Valle d’Aosta and Piedmont, Liguria and
Lombardy, are shown on this map. Lake Sondrio
Lake
Maggiore Como
LOMBARDY
Aosta Varese
Lecco (See pp190–213)
VALLE D'AOSTA Como
Bergamo
Biella
Monza
Ivrea Lake
Novara Milan Brescia Garda
Vercelli
The Parco Nazionale del Gran Lodi
Paradiso is a beautiful wilderness,
and the habitat of rare Alpine Turin Po
fauna and flora (see pp220–21). Pavia
Moncalieri Cremona
Po
Pinerolo
Asti
VALLE D’AOSTA
AND PIEDMONT Alessandria Tortona
(See pp214–33)
Alba


Cuneo LIGURIA
(See pp234–47) Genoa

The capital of Piedmont is Turin, an elegant and Savona Portofino
bustling city of splendid Baroque architecture.
Its skyline is dramatically dominated by the
Mole Antonelliana (see p228).
La Spezia
Impería
Sanremo







Sanremo is a typical
Riviera resort, with
palm trees and a
casino. The onion-
domed outline of the
Russian church adds The Basilica di Sant’Andrea in Vercelli is an
an exotic flavour to important Romanesque building, one of the
the town (see p238). earliest to use Gothic elements (see p232).
The picturesque Isola San Giulio in the centre of Lake Orta, Valle d’Aosta



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Date 6th August 2012
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introducing nor thwest it al y  183


0 kilometres 50
0 miles 25







Locator Map
Sondrio
Lake Lake
Maggiore Como
LOMBARDY
Aosta Varese
Lecco (See pp190–213)
VALLE D'AOSTA Como
Bergamo
Biella
Monza
Ivrea Lake
Novara Milan Brescia Garda
Vercelli
Lodi
Po
Turin
Pavia
Moncalieri Cremona
Po
Pinerolo Isola Bella is an enchanting
Asti island on romantic Lake Maggiore.
VALLE D’AOSTA Alessandria Nearby lies beautiful Lake Como
AND PIEDMONT Tortona (see pp194–5).
(See pp214–33)
Alba

Cuneo LIGURIA
(See pp234–47) Genoa
Milan’s Duomo, with its dis-
Savona Portofino tinctive bristling spires, is one
of the many architectural gems
in this stylish city (see p197).
La Spezia
Impería
Sanremo






Portofino is one
of Italy’s most
exclusive resorts.
Nestling in a
creek, its pretty
pastel-coloured The Certosa di Pavia, a charming Carthusian
houses surround monastery, includes a richly decorated Gothic
a yacht-filled church with a magnificent Renaissance façade,
harbour (see p244). and a series of attractive cloisters (see pp208–9).




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184  NOR THWEST IT AL Y


The Flavours of Northwest Italy

From Mediterranean Liguria to the Alps, the Lombardy plain
and Piedmont, this diverse area is characterized by its rich,
hearty cuisine. Along with the Veneto, Lombardy and Piedmont
are Italy’s main rice-growing areas and risotto features widely,
especially delicious when made with local wild mushrooms.
The white truffles of Alba are the “white gold” of Piedmont,
while lush pastures produce some of the country’s best meat
and many of Italy’s finest cheeses. The mild Ligurian climate
favours olives and herbs – especially basil, used in pesto sauce
– and fish teem in the sparkling Mediterranean. Fresh basil
Piedmont and
(maize porridge) still features
from its days as the staple diet Valle d’Aosta
of impoverished countryfolk. The “Slow Food” movement
The other staple food, the was born in Piedmont in
short-grained rice that is used 1986. Its mission is “to defend
in risotto, grows abundantly biodiversity in our food supply,
in the area around Pavia. spread taste education and
Lombardy is one of Italy’s connect producers of excellent
largest cheese-making regions, food”. The movement now has
the most famous including more than 100,000 members
Gorgonzola, Mascarpone, in more than 50 countries.
Bitto and Grana Padano. Piedmontese flavours are robust,
A precious haul of aromatic Grana Padano Gorgonzola Fontina
Piedmontese truffles Bitto
Lombardy
This is the home of dishes
prepared alla Milanese, rich in
butter, ossobuco (shin of veal),
vegetable soups and boiled
meats (bollito misto). From veal
to beef and from pork to
poultry, Lombardy produces
some of the country’s finest
meat, but it is also associated Mascarpone
with cucina povera (cuisine of Taleggio
the poor) in which polenta Mouthwatering range of northwest Italy’s finest cheeses
Regional Dishes and Specialities
Veal is especially popular in Lombardy
and Piedmont, and a great favourite with
the Milanese is ossobuco. Another classic
Piedmontese dish, vitello tonnato, is
a surprisingly delicious blend of cold
roast veal served with a sauce made
with mayonnaise, tuna, gherkins
and capers. As well as pesto, a traditional
dish from Genoa is buridda alla Genovese –
Gianduiotti a delicious fish soup or stew containing mussels,
shrimps, octopus, squid and clams. Shavings of truffle
in dishes such as risotto and fagiano tartufato (pheasant stuffed with
white truffle and pork fat) give a taste of sheer luxury and, fortunately, Bagna Caôda From Piedmont;
a little of this very expensive delicacy goes a long way. And, for those a warm mix of olive oil,
with a sweet tooth, panettone is a soft Christmas cake studded with anchovies and garlic into which
dried and candied fruit, another Milanese speciality. raw vegetables are dipped.






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INTRODUCING NOR THWEST IT AL Y  185


Liguria
The Mediterranean climate
is perfect for growing herbs,
fruit and vegetables, nuts and
olives. Ligurian olive oil is of
the highest quality and is used
in the preparation of many
dishes. To accompany pasta,
pesto is the signature sauce,
made from basil, pine nuts,
garlic and olive oil, as well as
a mix of pecorino and Parmesan.
This use of aromatic herbs is
typical of Ligurian cuisine
Boxes of fresh fish are unloaded onto a Ligurian quayside in general.
Not surprisingly, fish and
rich and earthy, laced with city is also the birthplace of seafood are as common as
French flair, reflecting a history grissini, crisp breadsticks that meat and dairy in this region,
of French rule and influence. grace every restaurant table. where the vast majority of
The paddy fields of Vercelli The tradition of the aperitivo people live on the coast.
are the rice capital of Europe, also originates in Turin. The
and truffle risotto, especially spread that accompanies a glass
when flavoured using the of Pro secco or a cocktail in bars ON THE MENU
prized white variety from Alba, throughout the city between
is truly memorable fare. 6pm and 8pm is substantial. Agnolotti Piedmont pasta
The mountains are famous speciality – crescent-shaped
for cow’s-milk cheese, especially ravioli stuffed with meat or
the semi-soft Fontina from the vegetables. Served with ragù
or a creamy sauce.
Valle d’Aosta, cured meats,
salamis, terrines and game. Brasato al Barolo Braised
Piedmont also produces Italy’s beef cooked gently with
greatest red wines, and the vegetables in Barolo wine.
prized Barolo and Barbaresco Lumache Piedmontese snails,
often feature as a marinade in the best of which come from
beef dishes. Cherasco, served either in garlic
The Turinese are passionate and butter or in a sauce of
about chocolate, echoing olive oil, tomatoes and garlic.
Turin’s tradition of chocolate- Oca alla Piemontese Goose
making originating in the preserved in fat.
17th century. Most famous Risotto alla Milanese Rich,
are the sublime ingot-shaped saffron-scented dish of rice
gianduiotti, filled with a rich Delicious focaccia bread made with with white wine, onion and
chocolate-hazelnut cream. The Ligurian olive oil Parmesan cheese.














Trenette con pesto A Ligurian Ossobuco Milanese shin of veal, Zabaione A frothy dessert of
dish of flat noodles with a sauce braised slowly in white wine. egg yolks, sugar and Marsala,
of basil, garlic, pine nuts and The bone marrow is considered zabaione is a speciality of the
olive oil. a delicacy. Piedmont region.






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186  nor T hWEs T IT AL y


The Wines of Northwest Italy

Grapes are grown throughout the northwest – from
the cliffs of Liguria to the steep mountainsides of Valle
d’Aosta. The best wines, however, come from Piedmont,
in particular the Langhe hills southwest of Turin, source
of two of Italy’s finest reds: the rich, powerful, long-lived
Barolo and Barbaresco. Both of these are now showing
the benefits of modern techniques and a renewed
interest in high-quality wine-making. Lighter, everyday
red wines that go well with the local cuisine include
Dolcetto and the popular Barbera. Another Piedmont
speciality is sparkling spumante, Italians’ instinctive
choice whenever there is something
around to celebrate. Castiglione Falletto in the heart of Piedmont

Turin
Chieri
Barbera d’Alba comes from the Piedmont Moncalvo
adaptable Barbera grape, which
can grow on almost any slope.
Its ubiquitous nature means that the
wines it yields can be light and full MONFERRATO
of fruit, as well as dense, strong and
full-flavoured. Good producers Asti
include Aldo Conterno, Voerzio, Pio Canale
Cesare, Altare, Gaja, Vaira and Vietti.
Barbaresco
Alba
Bra
Saluzzo Santo
Barolo Castiglione Stefano
Falletto Belbo

Dogliani
Dolcetto is grown in seven LANGHE
different areas. Dolcetto d’Alba Mondovi
has a delicious perfume and Cuneo
deep purple colour. Best drunk Sassello
within one or two years, it
ranges in flavour from fresh and
fruity to the rich, concentrated
plumminess of some of the top
wines, such as those produced
by Giuseppe Mascarello.



Barolo, prized the world
Key over for its complex array of
Barolo flavours and firm tannins,
is made from the Nebbiolo
Barbaresco
grape and may take up to The white truffle of Alba
Other vineyard areas 20 years to mature. Vigna is an autumn speciality
Colonnello is a top Barolo from the Langhe hills.
from Aldo Conterno, made Highly prized for its
0 kilometres 25
only in the best years, like earthy scent, it is
0 miles 15 2006, 2005, 2004 and 1993. excellent with Barolo.



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introducing nor thwest it al y  187


Moscato d’Asti is an excellent
aperitivo or light dessert wine Grapes of the
made from the aromatic, fruity Northwest
Moscato grape. It is light in
alcohol with a gently sweet The Nebbiolo grape is used to
finish and may have a slight produce two of Italy’s finest red
sparkle. Ideal for refreshing wines, Barolo and Barbaresco, as
the palate after a hearty well as other regional wines in
Piedmontese meal, Araldica’s the Valtellina and north of Turin.
versatile Moscato is delicious It is a difficult grape to cultivate Nebbiolo
when served well chilled. and requires a long growing grapes
season to soften its high acidity.
However, the final results are
worth it: in the Langhe region the
Nebbiolo offers complex perfumes and
a range of flavours, often encased within
strong tannins. Easier to handle and lighter,
the Dolcetto and Barbera both came from
Castiglione Falletto in the heart of Piedmont the Monferrato region originally. These
reds yield lighter, fruitier wines but, when
at their best, no less distinctive than those
Casale of the Nebbiolo. Of the white grapes, the
Chieri Monferrato LOMBARDY Moscato is Piedmont’s oldest known variety.
Moncalvo Famous for the successful sparkling Asti
Spumante, the best grapes are reserved
Voghera for Moscato d’Asti.
How to Read the Label
Alessandria
Asti The name of the wine is
shown in the centre of the The producer’s
Tortona label: bricco is local dialect for name
a good hilltop vineyard.
Barbaresco Novi
Nizza Producer’s Year of
Canelli Monferrato Ligure emblem production
Santo
Castiglione Stefano Acqui
Falletto Belbo Terme
Ovada Gavi

LANGHE LIGURIA

Sassello Genoa

Savona


Alcoholic Size of
strength bottle
The official category; The bottler’s
in this case a table name and address
wine from the
Langhe region.
Good Vintages
Barolo and Barbaresco had
Barolo is aged in wooden casks for at least two years good years in 2006, 2005,
before being put in bottles. This may be done in either 2004, 2003, 2000, 1998, 1997.
the traditional, large botte or the smaller barrique, which
imparts a strong oaky flavour to the wine.





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188  NOR THWEST IT AL Y


Understanding Architecture in Northwest Italy

Although the buildings of the northwest tend to be solid and imposing –
a result partly of the more severe climate – there is no distinctive
architectural stamp as there is around Venice, Florence or even in Rome.
Instead, a variety of buildings in different styles, many borrowed or
reinterpreted from elsewhere, are dotted across the area: enchanting
medieval castles, outstanding Romanesque and Gothic buildings,
unusual Baroque structures. The northwest is also rich in modern
architecture – in terms of both design and materials – influenced by the
region’s industrial developments and its strong flair for innovative design, Castello Sforzesco, 1451–66
which also often draws its inspiration from earlier architectural styles. (see p196)

Characteristics of Northwest Italian Architecture
Wooden Few Massive
Double row of balcony windows square tower
defensive walls Pointed turret

Battlements

Castello di Fénis, one of
the finest castles in the Valle
d’Aosta, is a 14th-century
fortress with asymmetrical
towers, turrets and crenel-
lated walls. Frescoes adorn
the interior (see p219).
Alternating bands Rose window Rose window Octagonal drum
of marble Lions support columns influenced by the
and porch above Duomo in Florence
Cappella Colleoni,
Elaborate Bergamo (1476),
carving mixes rich, decorative Highly ornate
elements in this early façade
Renaissance master-
piece (see p205).
Patterned marble
design
Monza’s Duomo (1390s)
typifies the Lombard style of
Romanesque architecture
with its marble stripes and
ornate carving (see p205).
Massive scale Ornate window Rotunda Balcony Curved
surrounds brickwork


Palazzo Carignano is
perhaps the finest product
of Turin’s idiosyncratic
Baroque school. Guarini’s
masterpiece (1679) boasts
an extraordinary undulating
brick façade and a fine
rotunda (see p227).





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INTRODUCING NOR THWEST IT AL Y  189




Where to See the Architecture
The road to Aosta is flanked by numerous medieval
castles (see p218), while inspirational Romanesque and
Gothic churches are found in Lombardy – at Monza (p205),
Pavia (p207), Milan (pp196–205), and Como (pp194–5).
The 15th-century Certosa di Pavia (pp208–9) is a must, as
well as the charming city of Mantua (p211). Turin (pp224–9)
is famous for its unique Baroque school, and Bergamo for
its exuberance. Architecture from the last two centuries is
best represented in Milan and Turin, and in Genoa some Renzo Piano’s mast structure (1992) in Genoa’s
exciting redevelopment projects are taking place. redeveloped port and conference centre


19th- and 20th-Century Architecture
Central dome Mosaics
Top reaches Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II
167 m (550 ft) in Milan, designed by Mengoni
in 1865, was the first Italian
building to use glass and iron
structurally (see p198).
Aluminium
replaces original Glass Overhanging
granite top balcony upper storeys
Square-sided
dome


Struts
support
the top
Elliptical shape


Taller
windows
The Mole Antonelliana Torre Velasca, Milan, is a
(1863–97), designed 26-floor tower south of the
by Antonelli, was the Duomo. The design, from
tallest building in the 1950s, was influenced Tapering
the world when it was by medieval castles such struts
built (see p228). as the Castello Sforzesco.
Spiral ramps up to roof Roof served as test track Reinforced concrete











The Lingotto building, Turin, was built in 1915–18 as Fiat’s car factory. Milan’s Pirelli building,
Made of advanced materials, it was the first large-scale modern building by Ponti and Nervi, is an
in Italy. The structure of the ramps up to the roof is similar to the interior elegant and innovative
of Guarini’s Baroque dome for San Lorenzo in Turin. skyscraper built in 1959.





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NOR THWEST IT AL Y  191

LOMBARDY


The region of Lombardy stretches from the Alps, on the
border with Switzerland, down through the romantic
lakes of Como and Maggiore to the broad, flat plain of
the River Po. It is an area of lakeside villas with azalea-filled
gardens, of wealthy towns with imposing palazzi and highly
decorated churches, and of efficient, modern industry and
large-scale agriculture, the financial heart of Italy. At its centre
stands Milan, the style-conscious capital of Lombardy.

The region was named after the Lombards 16th century. These dynasties also became
or Longobards, a Germanic tribe that great patrons of the arts, commissioning
invaded Italy in the 6th century AD. During exquisite palaces, churches and artworks,
the Middle Ages, Lombardy was part of many of which can still be seen. Bergamo,
the Holy Roman Empire, but not always Mantua and Cremona – not to mention
loyal to its German emperors. The Milan itself – contain a remarkably rich
Lombards, who had a talent for banking array of art treasures. Here are such
and commerce, resented any outside pinnacles of European civilization as the
interference with their prosperity. charterhouse at Pavia, Leonardo da Vinci’s
The 12th century saw the rise of the Last Supper and the magnificent paintings
Lega Lombarda, or Lombard League, a of the Pinacoteca di Brera in Milan.
band of forceful separatists founded to Lombardy – famous as the birthplace of
counter the brutal imperialism of Frederick Virgil, Monteverdi, Stradivarius and Donizetti –
Barbarossa (their most modern incarnation today offers visitors the contrasting
being the Lega Nord political party). pleasures of lyrical lakeside landscapes
Power was seized by the region’s great (resorts on lakes Como and Maggiore have
families, most notably the Visconti and the attracted poets, aristocrats and gamblers
Sforza of Milan, from the 14th to the early for centuries) and beautiful, bustling cities.


























Strolling through Milan’s enormous Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II
The village of Corenno Plinio on the peaceful eastern shores of the beautiful Lake Como



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192  N o RT hweST i T a L y

Exploring Lombardy
Merano
The enormous plain of the River Po runs through much of Coira Livigno PARCO N A Z I O N ALE
Lombardy, providing a landscape that is flat and perfectly suited to Montespluga D ELLO S T E LVIO
the consequent expansion of industry in the region. This is, however, Bormio
also a region of great contrasts. To the north, in a still unspoiled setting Madesimo Santa
Caterina
in the foothills of the mountains, lie the lakes Como and Maggiore, as Pizzo Bernina Pizzo Verona Valfurva
well as the dramatic valleys and peaks of the Parco Nazionale dello Chiavenna 4049m 3453m Sondalo
A l p i R e t i c h e
Chiareggio
Liro
Stelvio around Bormio, Sondrio and Val Camonica. Further south, Pizzo Badile Pizzo Scalino Grosio Bolzano
3308m
busy industrialized areas give way to huge tracts of agriculture Bagni del Masino Monte 3323m Ponte
dotted with towns of great beauty such as Disgrazia Caspoggio di Legno
3678m
Cremona, Mantua and Pavia, which Gravedona Sondrio Tirano Edolo Adamello
Adda
offer a splendid array Monte Legnone V a l t e l l i n a Aprica 3554m
of artistic treasures. Bellinzona 2609m A l p i O r o b i e N I C A Saviore
LAGO DI COMO
dell’Adamello
Cannobio Maccagno
Porlezza Premana Valbondione Parco Nazionale delle
Bellano Carona O Incisioni Rupestri
LAGO Luino Tremezzo Capo di Ponte
MAGGIORE Bellagio Pizzo dei Tre Roncobello Breno
Signori
Lago di Argegno 2554m V A L C A M
Lugano Magreglio Pizzo Arera
Stresa Laglio Moggio 2512m Clusone Trento
Monte
Gavirate Varese Lecco Colombine
Limone
Lago di Como Erba Calolziocorte Gandino Lovere 2215m sul Garda
Arona Varese Pisogne Bovegno Magasa
Sesto Marone
Calende Giussano Alzano
Lombardo
Tradate Merate BERGAMO Carró
Gallarate Sarnico LAGO D’ISEO Barghe Gargnano
Seregno Dalmine Iseo
Saronno
Busto Arsizio Legnano MONZA Vimercate Nave Salò
Rovato
Nerviano Lago
Turbigo Sesto Treviglio Chiari BRESCIA di Garda
Novara Rho San Giovanni Antegnate Rezzato
MILAN LOMBARDIA Desenzano
del Garda
Magenta Lonato
Paullo Pandino Orzinuovi Ghedi Montichiari
Abbiategrasso Crema Verona
Melegnano Soncino Oglio Manerbio Leno Solferino
A view of Isola Bella on Lake Maggiore Palestro Vigevano Binasco Siziano LODI Castelleone Chiese
CERTOSA Adda Soresina Goito Verona
Ticino
Mortara DI PAVIA Sant’Angelo Pontevico Ostiano Casaloldo Roverbella
Lodigiano
Sesia
Candia Lomellina Asola Mincio
Lomellina Garlasco PAVIA Belgioioso Lambro Pizzighettone Cicognolo Castel d’Ario
Codogno Piadena MANTUA
Agogna
Po CREMONA
Lomello
Mede Stradella P i a n u r a P a d a n a
San Ostiglia
Broni Po Daniele Po Gazzuolo
Casei Gerola Parma SABBIONETA Quistello Sermide
Sights at a Glance Genova Voghera Casteggio Casalmaggiore Suzzara Ferrara
1 Lago di Como Viadana Po Gonzaga Poggio Po
Rusco
2 Lago Maggiore Godiasco
3 Milan (Milano) pp196–204 Zavattarello Modena
4 Monza
5 Bergamo Varzi
6 Parco Nazionale dello Stelvio Curone
7 Val Camonica
8 Lago d’Iseo
9 Brescia
0 Lodi
q Pavia
w Certosa di Pavia pp208–9
e Cremona
r Sabbioneta The colourful façade of the
t Mantua (Mantova) Cappella Colleoni in Bergamo
For additional map symbols see back flap
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l ombard y  193



Merano
Livigno
Coira PARCO N A Z I O N ALE
Montespluga D ELLO S T E LVIO
Bormio
Madesimo Santa
Caterina
Pizzo Bernina Pizzo Verona Valfurva
4049m
A l p i R e t i c h e
3453m Sondalo
Chiavenna Chiareggio Bolzano
Liro
Pizzo Badile Grosio
3308m Pizzo Scalino
3323m
Bagni del Masino Monte Caspoggio Ponte
Disgrazia di Legno
3678m Sondrio Tirano Edolo
Gravedona Adda V a l t e l l i n a Aprica Adamello
3554m
Bellinzona Monte Legnone Saviore Passo del Gavia in the Parco Nazionale dello Stelvio
2609m
LAGO DI COMO A l p i O r o b i e N I C A dell’Adamello
Cannobio Maccagno on the eastern fringes of Lombardy
Porlezza Premana Valbondione Parco Nazionale delle
Bellano Carona O Incisioni Rupestri
LAGO Luino Tremezzo Capo di Ponte
MAGGIORE Bellagio Pizzo dei Tre Roncobello Breno Key
Signori
Lago di Argegno 2554m V A L C A M
Lugano Magreglio Pizzo Arera Motorway
Stresa Laglio Moggio 2512m Clusone Trento Major road
Monte
Gavirate Varese Lecco Colombine Secondary road
Limone
Lago di Como Erba Calolziocorte Gandino Lovere 2215m sul Garda
Arona Varese Pisogne Bovegno Magasa Minor road
Sesto Marone Scenic route
Calende Giussano Alzano
Lombardo
Tradate Merate BERGAMO Carró Main railway
Gallarate Sarnico LAGO D’ISEO Barghe Gargnano Minor railway
Seregno Dalmine Iseo
Saronno International border
Busto Arsizio Legnano MONZA Vimercate Nave Salò Regional border
Rovato
Nerviano Lago
Turbigo Sesto Treviglio Chiari BRESCIA di Garda Summit
Novara Rho San Giovanni Antegnate Rezzato
MILAN LOMBARDIA Desenzano
del Garda
Magenta Lonato
Paullo Pandino Orzinuovi Ghedi Montichiari
Abbiategrasso Crema Verona
Melegnano Soncino Oglio Manerbio Leno Solferino
Palestro Vigevano Binasco Siziano LODI Castelleone Chiese
CERTOSA Adda Soresina Goito Verona
Ticino
Mortara DI PAVIA Sant’Angelo Pontevico Ostiano Casaloldo Roverbella
Lodigiano
Sesia
Candia Lomellina Asola Mincio
Lomellina Garlasco PAVIA Belgioioso Lambro Pizzighettone Cicognolo Castel d’Ario
Codogno Piadena MANTUA
Agogna
Po CREMONA
Lomello
Mede Stradella P i a n u r a P a d a n a
San Ostiglia
Broni Po Daniele Po Gazzuolo
Casei Gerola Parma SABBIONETA Quistello
Casteggio Suzzara Sermide
Genova Voghera Casalmaggiore Po Gonzaga Poggio Ferrara
Viadana Rusco Po
Godiasco Modena
Zavattarello
Varzi
Getting Around
Milan has three international airports, which are
Curone
obvious gateways into northern Italy, and the vast and
flat Lombard plain has its advantages when it comes
to transport: roads and railway lines criss-cross it and
make trips between the larger towns very easy. 0 kilometres 25
The lakes, however, are better visited by car, as only 0 miles 20
two main towns are served by trains, though there are
bus and boat services around the shores. The Parco
Nazionale dello Stelvio and the mountains are more
remote still, but offer good tourist facilities.
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194  NOR THWEST IT AL Y

1 Lago di Como

Set in an idyllic landscape of mountains and rugged hillsides, The northern stretches
are wilder and less
Lake Como has for centuries attracted visitors who come populated than the
here to go boating, for walks in the hills, or for relaxation southern part, offering
and inspiration. The northern stretches, in particular, are visitors great tranquillity.
shrouded in an almost eerie calm. The long and narrow lake, J
shaped into a wishbone by glacial erosion, offers fine J
views up to the Alps J
and down to the Domaso •
towns of Como Gravedona • • Còlico S36
and Lecco.
S38
J

Menaggio is one J
of a string of popular
resorts lining the J Varenna, a ferry port, is
west bank.
• Dèrvio overlooked by a ruined 11th-
century castle. At Fiumelatte,
just south, there is a foaming
J stream, the “river of milk”.
Bellano •
J
The banks of the lake near Como
J
Villa Carlotta Menaggio •
nestles among • Varenna
lush gardens J
with lovely views. Fiumelatte •
Griante •
Tremezzo • • Bellagio
Mezzegra •
Bellagio
J J This delightful resort on
• Argegno the cusp of the lake’s two
J arms has elegant lakeside
J promenades and cafés.
Cernobbio was J
a favourite resort J
of the exiled The southeastern arm
Queen Caroline of Onno • of the lake is also called
England in the early the Lago di Lecco.
19th century. S36
S340 The scenic route Lecco, home to
just south of J S583 the 19th-century
Bellagio climbs novelist Manzoni.
J
a hill to offer far-
reaching lake views.
• S583 J • Lecco
Cernobbio
J
0 metres 10
A9-E35 • Como 0 miles 10
Key
Como Car ferry route
The town, which gave its Ferry route
name to the lake, boasts a Motorway
fine Duomo in mixed Gothic
and Renaissance styles, with Major road
carvings on its façade. Minor road
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp565–9 and pp584–90


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L OMBARD Y  195


VISITORS’ CHECKLIST 2 Lago Maggiore The Borromean islands, at the
centre of the lake near Stresa,
Practical Information Verbania. V @ g Stresa, Verbania, are small jewels of natural
n Piazza Cavour 17, Como (031 Baveno & the islands. n Piazza beauty augmented by artificial
26 97 12); Piazza XX Settembre 23, Marconi 16, Stresa (0323 301 50). grottoes, architectural follies
Lecco (0341 29 57 20). ∑ distrettolaghi.it and landscaped gardens. The
∑ lakecomo.it Lake Maggiore, the second- Isola Bella is home to the 17th-
Transport largest Italian lake after Lake century Palazzo Borromeo
V Como, Lecco. @ g all towns. Garda, is a long expanse of and its splendid gardens, while
water nestling right against the Isola Madre is largely given over
mountains and stretching into to a botanical garden. The only
Alpine Switzerland; it is warmer in island inhabited all year round
atmosphere and more romantic is Isola dei Pescatori, with a
than Lake Como. The gently population of 50. The private
sloping shores are dotted with Isola di San Giovanni is the
camellias, azaleas and smallest of the isles,
verbena vegetation – with a villa that
from which the ancient once belonged to
Tadoline’s copy (1834) of Canova’s Cupid lake derived its Roman the great conductor
and Psyche in Villa Carlotta name, Verbanus. Arturo Toscanini
A huge copper statue (1867–1957).
Exploring Lago di Como of Cardinal San Carlo The lake becomes
In the heart of Como lies the Borromeo, the chief quieter towards the
elegant Piazza Cavour. Nearby patron of the lake, stands Swiss border, but
rises the beautiful 14th-century in Arona, the town continues to be lined
Duomo, with its 15th- and 16th- where he was born in with attractive villas.
century reliefs and paintings, 1538. It is possible to The Villa Taranto,
and fine tombs. The 18th-century climb up and look out located on the
dome is by Turin’s famous over the lake through outskirts of Verbania,
Baroque architect, Juvarra. Next his eyes and ears. Arona houses a fine exotic
to the Duomo stand the 13th- also boasts a ruined botanical collection.
century Broletto (town hall), castle and a chapel, About 3 km (2 miles)
charmingly striped in white, Santa Maria, dedicated west of Cannobio,
pink and grey, and the tall Torre to the Borromeo family. a market town near
del Comune. At Tremezzo, Villa Further up the The statue of Carlo Switzerland, is the
Carlotta is an elegant 18th- western coast of the Borromeo in Arona dramatic gorge and
century summer-house known lake is Stresa, the chief tumbling waterfall of
for its gardens. In springtime, resort and main jumping-off Orrido di Sant’Anna, which can
all sorts of flowers burst into point for visits to the islands; be reached by boat.
colour. The villa houses a the town boasts many grand
collection of sculptures. hotels, handsome villas and P Palazzo Borromeo
Lecco, a small industrial town pleasant gardens. Behind Isola Bella. g from Stresa. Tel 0323
to the south of the lake’s eastern Stresa, a cable car ride away, 305 56. Open early Mar–Oct: 9am–
arm, was home to Alessandro rises Monte Mottarone, a 5:30pm daily. & ∑ isoleborromee.it
Manzoni (1785–1873). The snow-capped peak offering P Villa Taranto
writer’s childhood home, the spectacular panoramic views Via Vittorio Veneto 111, Verbania,
Villa Manzoni, is devoted to of the surrounding mountains, Pallanza. Tel 0323 40 45 55.
memorabilia of his life and including Monte Rosa. Open mid-Mar–Oct: daily. & 7
works. A monument in Piazza
Manzoni depicts scenes from his
most famous novel, I Promessi
Sposi (The Betrothed) – set in
17th-century Lecco and Milan.
P Villa Carlotta
Via Regina 2b, Tremezzo. Tel 0344
404 05. Open end Mar–mid-Oct:
9am– 7:30pm daily (mid-Mar–early
Apr & mid-Oct–end Oct: 10am–6pm
daily). &
P Villa Manzoni
Via Guanella 1, Lecco. Tel 0341 48 12
47. Open 9.30am–6pm Tue–Sun (Sat
& Sun: from 10am). Closed 1 Jan,
Easter, 1 May, 15 Aug, 25 Dec. & Isola Bella’s 17th-century Palazzo Borromeo and garden on Lago Maggiore




194-195_EW_Italy.indd 195 05/05/2017 10:09

196 І NOR THWEST IT AL Y

3 Milan

Centre of fashion, business and finance, Milan has a bustling,
businesslike feel about it. It is smart rather than attractive – a
city of wealth as opposed to imagination and the heartland
of the Italian economy. Its name is thought to come from a
composite of the Latin words medio and planum, meaning
“middle of the plain”. It has long been an important trading
centre at the junction of transalpine routes, and a prize for
powerful dynasties. Today, it is the best place to see Italy at
its most cosmopolitan and stylish.
Portrait of a Young Woman by
+ Castello Sforzesco in the picture collection, Pollaiuolo, Museo Poldi-Pezzoli
Piazza Castello. Tel 02 88 46 37 03. dating from the Renaissance Stazione Porta VIA DE FATEBENEFRATELLI Stazione Centrale
T IV OLI V I A P O N TA C C IO
Stazione Porta
Stazione Centrale
VIA
Garibaldi
Castello: Open daily. Musei del to the 18th century, are 1.5 km (1 mile) FIORI OSCURI VIA VIA D E L L' A N N U N 2 km (1.25 miles)
Garibaldi
2 km (1.25 miles)
FIORI OSCURI
1.5 km (1 mile)
VIA DE FATEBENEFRATELLI
V IA
V IA
Castello: Open 9am–5:30pm Tue–Sun. particularly impressive. Parco Parco V. LANZA IV OLI V I A P O N TA C C IO VI A Museo del V I A
Museo del
VIA D E L L' A N N U N CIATA
Risorgimento DINI
Sempione
Porta
VIA S.
Closed pub hols. 8 7 V. LANZA T Lanza Lanza CARPOFORO VIA S. V I A Pinacoteca Risorgimento Nuova Nuova V I A S E N ATO
CARPOFORO
V I A GAD I O
V I A
∑ milanocastello.it E Museo Poldi-Pezzoli V I A GAD I O V I A V I A di Brera Orto Orto VI A BORGONUOVO VIA D. GIAR VIA D. GIARDINI CIATA Porta S E N ATO
di Brera
VIA
VIA
Castello
Botanico
Castello
The first castle on this site was Via Alessandro Manzoni 12. Tel 02 79 Sempione P I A Z Z A CASTELLO B RE B RE Pinacoteca BORGONUOVO M AN Z O N I M AN Z O N I Villa Belgiojoso
Botanico
Villa Belgiojoso
Sforzesco
VIA BORGOSPESSO D EL L
Sforzesco
Bonaparte,
Bonaparte,
built by the Visconti family, but 48 89. Open 10am–6pm Wed–Mon. M E R C A TO M E R C A TO VIA D. CARMINE R A Montenapoleone VIA BORGOSPESSO D EL L Museo dell’ Ottocento
Montenapoleone
VIA D. CARMINE R A
Museo dell’ Ottocento
V I A M O N T E D I PIETA
demolished when their reign & ∑ museopoldipezzoli.it Milan Malpensa FORO BUONAPARTE FORO BUONAPARTE V I A V I A
P I A Z Z A CASTELLO
Milan Malpensa
ended in the mid-15th century. Giacomo Poldi-Pezzoli was a 50 km (31 miles) VIA DELL’ORSO V I A M O N T E D I PIETA V I A S .S P I R I T O A S PI GA BERGAMO
50 km (31 miles)
Museo Bagatti
MONZA
V I A S .S P I R I T O A S PI GA MONZA
VIA SANT’ANDREA
Museo Bagatti
Valsecchi
Milan’s new ruler, Francesco wealthy nobleman who, on his Cairoli Cairoli IA C USANI VIA DELL’ORSO ANDEGARI ANDEGARI Museo Museo Valsecchi Museo BERGAMO
CORSO VENEZIA
Poldi-Pezzoli
V I A BIGLI
V I A BIGLI
Sforza, built in its place this death in 1879, bequeathed his Cadorna V VIA C USANI V I A LAU R O VIA V E R DI VIA VIA Casa del Poldi-Pezzoli VIA SANT’ANDREA Museo
Cadorna
di Milano
Casa del
V I A LAU R O
LARGO
Renaissance palace. The castle is magnificent art collection to PIAZZALE F O R F O RO B U O N APA R T E CAIROLI Manzoni V CORSO VENEZIA
VI A M ONT E NAP O L
LARGO
Manzoni
CAIROLI
VIA V E R DI
PIAZZALE O B U O N APA R T E
Teatro
Casa degli
based on a series of courtyards, the State. Its most famous CADORNA V alla Scala Teatro Gallerie Casa degli V I A B A G UTTA di Milano VIA S.DAMIANO
VI A M ONT E NAP O L I A B
Gallerie
PIAZZA VIA P. VERRI E ON E
CADORNA
Omenoni
alla Scala
Omenoni
d'Italia
d'Italia
Santa Maria S. NICOLAO
PIAZZA
the most beautiful of which, painting is the 15th-century VIA VIA VIA BROLETTO VIA BROLETTO ONE BELGIOIOSO VIA P. VERRI E ON E A G UTTA San San
VIA D A L M A ZI O
Babila
Babila
V IA S
BELGIOIOSO
CORSO MONFORTE
S. MURO
CORSO MATTEOTTI
the Cortile della Rocchetta, Renaissance Portrait of a Santa Maria S. NICOLAO Palazzo V.SAN GIOVANNI S. MURO VI A CA M P ER IO V I A V IA ROV EL LO D A N T E V I A C LER I C I V IA S D A L M A ZI O Palazzo S. Fedele PIAZZA CORSO MATTEOTTI P
Palazzo
VIA S.DAMIANO
PIAZZA
S. Fedele
Marino
Marino
MEDA
Palazzo
V I A
delle Grazie
S.BABILA San Babila
is a graceful arcaded square Young Woman by Antonio NOVARA Litta Litta PORR VIA PORRONE PIAZZA PIAZZA MEDA S.BABILA San Babila
delle Grazie
V I A C LER I C I
CORSO VITTORIO EMANUELE II
designed by Bramante and Pollaiuolo, though there NOVARA COR S O M A G E N TA V.SAN GIOVANNI I A CA M P ER IO Cordusio VIA T. GROSSI VIA S.PELLICO FEDELE FEDELE VIA S.PAOLO VIA S.PAOLO VIA VIA BORGOGNA
COR S O M A G E N TA V I A M E R AV I G L I
Cordusio
CORSO EUROPA BORGOGNA
V IA ROV EL LO D A N T E
VIA T. GROSSI
V I A G . CA RD U CC I
PIAZZA
Galleria
VIA S.PIETRO ALL' ORTO
Filarete. The palace now contains, are also works by V V Civico Museo V I A M E R AV I G L I VIA SEGRETA VIA SEGRETA PIAZZA VIA Galleria V. A G N E LLO CORSO VITTORIO EMANUELE II
VIA S.PIETRO ALL' ORTO
Civico Museo
VIA NEGRI CORDUSIO
Vittorio
Vittorio
Archeologico
Archeologico
V I A V I S C O N T I DI M O D RO N E
together with sections on Piero della Francesca, V I A B.L U IN V I A B.L U IN I VIA NEGRI CORDUSIO VIA Emanuele II PIAZZA ORSO EUROPA
V. A G N E LLO

VIA S.PELLICO
Emanuele II
VIA MENGO N I
MERCANTI
MERCANTI
Applied Arts, Archaeology and Botticelli and VIA S . A G NE SE IA NIRO NE VIA BOCHETTO ARMORARI VIA F I CI HUGO M E N G ONI Duomo Duomo V I A D U R I N I V I A D U R I N I V I A C ER VA V I A C ER VA
VIA BOCHETTO V. O RE
VIA
PIAZZA
PIAZZA
PIAZZA
Coins, the Musei del Castello. Mantegna, among V I A G . CA RD U CC I SANT'AMBROGIO Pinacoteca ARMORARI VIA VIA DEL DUOMO Duomo VIA PAT T VIA PAT T PIAZZA
BECCARIA C
PIAZZA
VIA S . A G NE SE IA NIRO NE I
V. O RE F I CI
Duomo BECCARIA
DEL DUOMO
SANT'AMBROGIO
Pinacoteca
V. SPADARI VIA
This fine collection of furniture, others. The applied VIA M. VIA M. Ambrosiana V. HUGO Duomo Duomo VIA ARCIVESCOVADO A R I FONTANA V. CAVALLOTTI V. BATTISTI
TERESA
TERESA
PIAZZA
PIAZZA
VIA ARCIVESCOVADO A R I FONTANA
antiquities and paintings includes arts section is richly VIA S . M A UR I LIO Ambrosiana SPADARI V. MARCONI V. MARCONI V. R A S T R E L L I LARGA V I A D . S I G N O R A DI M O D RO N E
Palazzo
Palazzo
LARGO
V I A S. O RS O L A
LARGO
San
San
Reale
RealeORE
V. CAVALLOTTI V. BATTISTI
VI A VE R Z IERE AUGUSTO
PIAZZA S. Satiro
Michelangelo’s unfinished endowed with VI A T ERR AG G IO VI A T ERR AG G IO VI A N E C CHI V I A S. O RS O L A VIA S . M A UR I LIO SEPOLCRO V.D’ V.D’ORE VI A VE R Z IERE AUGUSTO
PIAZZA S. Satiro
S.STEFANOI G N O R A
SEPOLCRO
sculpture known as the fascinating items Sant' Sant' VIA SANT VALERIA V I A C A M PU C CIO V. UNIONE M A ZZIN I DIAZ PIAZZA V. R A S T R E L L I LARGA S.STEFANO 8 km (5 miles)
PIAZZA
VIA CIRCO SANTA M A R TA
Milan Linate
PIAZZA
Milan Linate
DIAZ
8 km (5 miles)
V I A
Ambrogio
VI A N E C CHI
Rondanini Pietà. The canvases ranging from rugs Ambrogio VIA CIRCO SANTA M A R TA V I A V. UNIONE V I A D . S
VIA SANT VALERIA V I A C A M PU C CIO
V I A T O R I N O
and lace to glass, Sant'Ambrogio V I A M A ZZIN I PIAZZA V IA V IA V I A V I S C O N T I
Sant'Ambrogio
VIA FESTA D. PERDONO
V I A
PIAZZA
enamels and VI A LANZONE V I A T O R I N O VIA PALLA VIA PALLA MISSORI PIAZZA VIA ALBRICCI
MISSORI
VIA ALBRICCI
porcelain, as well as V I A T ORCHIO VIA PIATTI Torre Torre VIA CHIARAVALLE VIA FESTA D. PERDONO
Ca’ Grande
VI A LANZONE V I A T ORCHIO
VIA CHIARAVALLE Ca’ Grande
PIAZZA VI A C. C O RREN TI
(Universitá
sculpture, jewellery V I A VIA PIATTI IA A ME DE I GGIA Missori Missori Velasca VIA PANTANO (Universitá
Velasca
V
Statale)
Statale)
and sundials. V I A E D M ON D O DE AM I CI S VI A C. C O RREN TI V I A VIA OLMETTO V IA A ME DE I GGIA
V I A S TA M PA
VI A R UG A B EL LA
V I A S TA M PA
PIAZZA V. CE LESTINO S A N V I T O VIA OLMETTO
VIA PANTANO
San Nazaro
RESISTENZA VIA D. CORNAI A San Nazaro
RESISTENZA
VIA D. CHIUSA A D. CORNA
PARTIGIANA V. CE LESTINO S A N V I T O VI V I A D I S C I P L I N I ITA L VI A R UG A B EL LA Maggiore
Maggiore
PARTIGIANA
Sights at a Glance V I A FA B B R I CORSO DI POR TA TICINESE CORSO DI POR TA TICINESE V I A D I S C I P L I N I PIAZZA PIAZZA
SAN
SAN
Stazione Porta V I A FA B B R I VIA C R OC E FI S S O C O R S O ITA L I A NAZARO
Stazione Porta
NAZARO
Genova
V I A E D M ON D O DE AM I CI S
1 Castello Sforzesco 800 m (880 yds) Genova San Lorenzo VIA D. CHIUS A VIA C R OC E FI S S O C O R S O VIA SENATORE VIA SENATORE F I A
800 m (880 yds)
San Lorenzo
CORSO DI PORTA ROMANA
Maggiore
CORSO DI PORTA ROMANA
2 Pinacoteca di Brera pp202–203 Maggiore
V I A S A NTA SOF I A
3 Museo Poldi-Pezzoli PAVIA PAVIA VI A MOL I NO D E L LE A RM I V I A S A NTA SO
4 Teatro alla Scala
VI A MOL I NO D E L LE A RM I
5 Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II
6 Duomo
7 Palazzo Reale (Museo
della Reggia)
8 San Satiro
9 Pinacoteca Ambrosiana 0 metres 500
0 Sant’Ambrogio 0 yards 500
q San Lorenzo Maggiore
Michelangelo’s Rondanini Pietà (c.1564) w Civico Museo Archeologico
in the Castello Sforzesco e Parco Sempione
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp565–9 and pp584–90
196-197_EW_Italy.indd 196 4/4/17 5:33 PM

MILAN І 197


P Teatro alla Scala VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Piazza della Scala. Box office: Tel 02 72
00 37 44. 7 Museo Teatrale: Practical Information
Largo Ghiringhelli 1 (Piazza Scala). * 1,325,000. n Galleria Vittorio
Tel 02 88 79 24 73. Open 9am–noon, Emanuele (02 88 45 55 55). (
1:30–5pm daily. & 7 = daily. _ 7 Dec: Sant’Ambro gio.
∑ teatroallascala.org ∑ turismo.milano.it
This Neo-Classical theatre opened Transport
in 1778 and is one of the world’s k Malpensa 50 km (31 miles)
most prestigious opera houses. NW; Linate 8 km (5 miles) E. V
It has one of the largest stages Stazione Centrale, Piazza Duca
in Europe and hosts sumptuous d’Aosta; Stazione Porta Garibaldi,
produc tions. Two hours before The façade of the world-famous Piazza Freud. @ Lampugnano.
each performance the box office Teatro alla Scala
Stazione Porta
Stazione Porta VIA DE FATEBENEFRATELLI Stazione Centrale R Duomo
Stazione Centrale
Garibaldi
Garibaldi VIA 2 km (1.25 miles)
FIORI OSCURI
1.5 km (1 mile) FIORI OSCURI VIA VIA D E L L' A N N U N 2 km (1.25 miles) Piazza del Duomo. Tel 02 72 02 26 56.
1.5 km (1 mile)
VIA DE FATEBENEFRATELLI
Parco Parco V IA T IV OLI V I A P O N TA C C IO Museo del Open 8am–7pm daily. Archaeological
V IA
VIA D E L L' A N N U N CIATA
Risorgimento DINI
Sempione V. LANZA IV OLI V I A P O N TA C C IO V I A Pinacoteca VI A Museo del Nuova V I A site: Open 8am–7pm daily. Museum:
Porta
Risorgimento
VIA S.
T
VIA S.
Lanza CARPOFORO
V I A GAD I O V. LANZA Lanza V I A V I A CARPOFORO di Brera Orto Orto VI A BORGONUOVO VIA D. GIAR VIA D. GIARDINI CIATA Nuova V I A S E N ATO Open 10am–6pm Thu–Tue. Roof:
V I A
V I A GAD I O
di Brera
VIA
VIA
Castello
Castello
Porta S E N ATO
Botanico
Villa Belgiojoso
Sforzesco P I A Z Z A CASTELLO B RE B RE Botanico M AN Z O N I M AN Z O N I Villa Belgiojoso Open 9am–7pm daily. & for roof. 7
VIA BORGOSPESSO D EL L
Sforzesco
∑ duomomilano.it
Bonaparte,
Bonaparte,
Pinacoteca BORGONUOVO
VIA D. CARMINE R A Montenapoleone VIA BORGOSPESSO D EL L Museo dell’ Ottocento
Montenapoleone
VIA D. CARMINE R A
Museo dell’ Ottocento
M E R C A TO
M E R C A TO
Milan Malpensa FORO BUONAPARTE V I A M O N T E D I PIETA V I A V I A Milan’s cathedral is one of the
Milan Malpensa
Sempione P I A Z Z A CASTELLO
50 km (31 miles) VIA DELL’ORSO V I A M O N T E D I PIETA V I A S .S P I R I T O A S PI GA MONZA largest Gothic churches in
50 km (31 miles)
V I A S .S P I R I T O A S PI GA MONZA
Museo Bagatti
Museo Bagatti
VIA DELL’ORSO ANDEGARI ANDEGARI V I A BIGLI Valsecchi BERGAMO
BERGAMO
Valsecchi
Cairoli Cairoli IA C USANI Museo Museo VIA SANT’ANDREA Museo the world. It was begun in the
CORSO VENEZIA
FORO BUONAPARTE
V I A BIGLI
Poldi-Pezzoli
Cadorna
Cadorna V VIA C USANI V I A LAU R O VIA V E R DI VIA VIA Poldi-Pezzoli VIA SANT’ANDREA Museo 14th century under Prince
di Milano
Casa del
Casa del
V I A LAU R O
LARGO LARGO Manzoni V Gian Galeazzo Visconti but
VI A M ONT E NAP O L
CAIROLI
VIA V E R DI
F O R
PIAZZALE F O RO B U O N APA R T E CAIROLI Manzoni Casa degli CORSO VENEZIA
PIAZZALE O B U O N APA R T E
Casa degli
Teatro
VI A M ONT E NAP O L I A B
CADORNA V alla Scala Teatro Gallerie Omenoni V I A B A G UTTA di Milano VIA S.DAMIANO not completed until more
Gallerie
CADORNA
PIAZZA VIA P. VERRI E ON E
Omenoni
alla Scala
d'Italia
d'Italia
San
Santa Maria S. NICOLAO VIA S. NICOLAO VI A CA M P ER IO VIA BROLETTO VIA BROLETTO ONE VIA D A L M A ZI O V IA S Palazzo BELGIOIOSO CORSO MATTEOTTI CORSO MONFORTE than 500 years later. The
San
PIAZZA
D A L M A ZI O
VIA
Babila
V IA S
Babila
BELGIOIOSO
VIA P. VERRI E ON E A G UTTA
S. MURO
CORSO MONFORTE
VIA S.DAMIANO
Palazzo
CORSO MATTEOTTI
S. Fedele
Marino
Santa Maria Palazzo V.SAN GIOVANNI S. MURO V IA ROV EL LO D A N T E Marino S. Fedele PIAZZA PIAZZA VIA S.PIETRO ALL' ORTO PIAZZA PIAZZA building’s most startling
Palazzo
MEDA
MEDA
V I A
V I A
S.BABILA San Babila
delle Grazie Litta Litta VIA PIAZZA PIAZZA S.BABILA San Babila feature is the extraordinary
V I A C LER I C I
delle Grazie
V I A C LER I C I
NOVARA COR S O M A G E N TA V I A M E R AV I G L I PORR PORRONE FEDELE FEDELE VIA S.PAOLO VIA S.PAOLO
NOVARA
V.SAN GIOVANNI I A CA M P ER IO
CORSO VITTORIO EMANUELE II
roof, with its 135 spires,
Cordusio VIA T. GROSSI VIA S.PELLICO Galleria V. A G N E LLO CORSO VITTORIO EMANUELE II VIA VIA BORGOGNA innumerable statues and
Cordusio
COR S O M A G E N TA
CORSO EUROPA BORGOGNA
VIA T. GROSSI
V IA ROV EL LO D A N T E
V I A G . CA RD U CC I PIAZZA PIAZZA VIA S . A G NE SE IA NIRO NE I V I A B.L U IN I V I A S. O RS O L A VIA S . M A UR I LIO VIA BOCHETTO Pinacoteca V. MERCANTI HUGO M E N G ONI Duomo DEL DUOMO Emanuele II V.D’ Duomo BECCARIA V. CAVALLOTTI
PIAZZA ORSO EUROPA
V I A G . CA RD U CC I
Galleria
Civico Museo
PIAZZA
Civico Museo
PIAZZA
VIA S.PIETRO ALL' ORTO
Vittorio
VIA NEGRI CORDUSIO
V
Vittorio
V
Archeologico
V I A D . S I G N O R A DI M O D RO N E
V I A V I S C O N T I DI M O D RO N E
Archeologico
VIA NEGRI CORDUSIO VIA
VIA
V I A D U R I N I
gargoyles, and from which,
V. A G N E LLO
Emanuele II
VIA S.PELLICO
V I A D U R I N I

VIA MENGO N I
V I A C ER VA
MERCANTI
V I A M E R AV I G L I VIA SEGRETA
VIA SEGRETA
Duomo
Duomo
on a clear day, there are
VIA BOCHETTO V. O RE
VIA
PIAZZA
PIAZZA
PIAZZA
VIA S . A G NE SE IA NIRO NE
V I A B.L U IN
BECCARIA C
Duomo
views of the Alps. Below, the
VIA F I CI
V. O RE F I CI
DEL DUOMO
ARMORARI
Pinacoteca
VIA
HUGO
SANT'AMBROGIO
VIA
ARMORARI
SANT'AMBROGIO
Ambrosiana
VIA M.
VIA M.
V. SPADARI VIA
Duomo
VI A T ERR AG G IO
VIA PAT T
TERESA
VIA PAT T
TERESA
PIAZZA
PIAZZA
VIA ARCIVESCOVADO A R I FONTANA
styles from Gothic through to
VIA ARCIVESCOVADO A R I FONTANA
Palazzo
Palazzo
LARGO
V I A S. O RS O L A
LARGO
San
San
V. CAVALLOTTI V. BATTISTI
V.D’ORE
Ambrosiana SPADARI
RealeORE
Reale
VI A VE R Z IERE AUGUSTO
VI A VE R Z IERE AUGUSTO
PIAZZA S. Satiro
PIAZZA S. Satiro
S.STEFANOI G N O R A
SEPOLCRO
V. MARCONI
The bronze doors are faced with
PIAZZA
VIA CIRCO SANTA M A R TA
PIAZZA
Sant'
Sant'
Milan Linate
V. MARCONI V. R A S T R E L L I LARGA
DIAZ
VIA S . M A UR I LIO
DIAZ
8 km (5 miles)
V I A
8 km (5 miles)
Ambrogio
VIA NE CCHI
bas-reliefs recounting episodes
VIA SANT VALERIA V I A C A M PU C CIO
VIA SANT VALERIA V I A C A M PU C CIO
V I A T O R I N O
V I A T O R I N O VIA PALLA VIA PALLA MISSORI VIA ALBRICCI V IA V IA of Sant’ Ambrogio, and scenes
from the life of the Virgin and
Sant'Ambrogio VI A T ERR AG G IO Ambrogio VIA NE CCHI VIA CIRCO SANTA M A R TA V I A SEPOLCRO V. UNIONE V. UNIONE M A ZZIN I V I A M A ZZIN I PIAZZA PIAZZA V. R A S T R E L L I LARGA S.STEFANO V I A D . S V I A V I S C O N T I
Sant'Ambrogio
VIA FESTA D. PERDONO
PIAZZA
MISSORI
PIAZZA VIA ALBRICCI
VI A LANZONE
Ca’ Grande
Torre
VI A LANZONE V I A T ORCHIO
VIA CHIARAVALLE Ca’ Grande
V I A T ORCHIO VIA PIATTI VIA PIATTI IA A ME DE I GGIA V I A Velasca Torre VIA CHIARAVALLE VIA FESTA D. PERDONO retelling the history of Milan.
PIAZZA VI A C. C O RREN TI V I A V I A S TA M PA V IA A ME DE I GGIA Missori Velasca VIA PANTANO (Universitá The aisles are divided by
Missori
(Universitá
V
Statale)
VI A C. C O RREN TI V I A
Statale)
52 giant pillars and well
PIAZZA V. CE LESTINO S A N V I T O VIA OLMETTO VIA OLMETTO
V I A S TA M PA
VIA PANTANO
VI A R UG A B EL LA
VIA D. CORNAI A
San Nazaro
VIA C R OC E FI S S O C O R S O ITA L I A
RESISTENZA
RESISTENZA San Nazaro lit by stained-glass
VIA D. CHIUSA A D. CORNA
Maggiore
PARTIGIANA CORSO DI POR TA TICINESE CORSO DI POR TA TICINESE V. CE LESTINO S A N V I T O VI V I A D I S C I P L I N I ITA L VI A R UG A B EL LA PIAZZA PIAZZA Maggiore windows. Look out
PARTIGIANA
SAN
Stazione Porta V I A FA B B R I V I A D I S C I P L I N I NAZARO SAN for the Visconti family
Stazione Porta
NAZARO
V I A FA B B R I
V I A E D M ON D O DE AM I CI S
Genova
V I A E D M ON D O DE AM I CI S
Genova
800 m (880 yds) San Lorenzo VIA D. CHIUS A VIA C R OC E FI S S O C O R S O VIA SENATORE VIA SENATORE F I A symbol – a serpent
San Lorenzo
800 m (880 yds)
CORSO DI PORTA ROMANA
CORSO DI PORTA ROMANA
Maggiore
Maggiore
swallowing a man –
V I A S A NTA SOF I A
PAVIA PAVIA VI A MOL I NO D E L LE A RM I V I A S A NTA SO in the fine tracery of
the apse windows.
Among the many
VI A MOL I NO D E L LE A RM I
statues is a depiction
opens to sell tickets at discount of the flayed San
prices. The Museo Teatrale Barto lomeo carrying
houses sets and costumes of his own skin.
past productions and theatrical The treasury,
items dating back to Roman beneath the main altar,
times. There is also a good view contains medieval
of the auditorium, with its gold and silverwork,
gilded box galleries, trompe-l’oeil and the remains of a
effects and huge chandelier. The Gothic Duomo, crowned with spires 4th-century baptistry.
For keys to map symbols see back flap
196-197_EW_Italy.indd 197 4/4/17 5:33 PM

198  NOR THWEST IT AL Y


Exploring Milan interiors of the building and
showcases the four historic
In addition to the great monuments in Milan, such as phases of the palace, including
the cathedral and the castle, there is a host of varied and the Neo-Classical era and the
interesting museums, churches and civic buildings, which Restoration. Palazzo Reale is
provide an enthralling mix of old and new. This chic and also a prestigious venue for
temporary art exhibitions. The
busy metropolis offers plenty of opportunities for cultural building abutting it to the west
activities, gastronomic adventures, designer-fashion (the Arengario) now houses a
shopping or just strolling about, Milan-style. modern art museum, the Museo
del Novecento, and many
Italian works of art from the 20th
century are displayed here.
E Villa Belgiojoso
Bonaparte and Galleria
d’Arte Moderna (GAM)
Via Palestro 16. Tel 02 88 44 59 47.
Open 9am–7:30pm Tue–Sun. 7 &
∑ gam-milano.com
Milan’s 19th-century and modern
art collections are housed in
a Neo-Classical villa built by
Leopold Pollack in 1790 for Count
Ludovico Barbiano di Belgiojoso.
The glass ceiling and dome covering the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II It was lived in by Napoleon
in 1802 and later by Marshal
P Galleria Vittorio may be seen stepping on Radetzky. The villa houses
Emanuele II the genitals of Taurus the Bull, 19th-century Italian art, showing
Main entrances on Piazza del Duomo which is said to bring good luck. all the major art movements, as
and Piazza della Scala. well as the Grassi and Vismara
This ornate shopping arcade, E Palazzo Reale collections of 19th- and
known as il Salotto di Milano Piazza del Duomo. Open 9:30am– 20th-century Italian and foreign
(Milan’s drawing room), was 7:30pm daily (Mon: from 2:30pm; Thu artists and the Marino Marini
designed by the architect & Sat: to 10:30pm). Museo della Reggia: Museum. Of particular note
Giuseppe Mengoni in 1865. 7 & ∑ palazzorealemilano.it are works by Giorgio Morandi
The Galleria had a tragic start, Museo del Novecento: Via Marconi 1. (1890 –1964), Carlo Carrà (1881–
however, as Mengoni fell to his ∑ museo delnovecento.org 1966), as well as by Modigliani
death from the scaffolding not The former royal palace, for (1884 –1920) and De Chirico
long before its inauguration in centuries home to the Visconti (1888–1978). Non-Italian artists
1877 (a year before the arcade and other rulers of Milan, include Van Gogh, Cézanne,
was actually finished). Tourists houses the Museo della Reggia. Gauguin, Picasso, Matisse, Klee,
are nevertheless attracted to It displays the sumptuous Mondrian and Kandinsky.
its stylish shops and cafés, as
well as Savini, one of Milan’s
historic restaurants.
The Galleria itself has a
floorplan in the shape of a
Latin cross, with an octagonal
centre adorned with mosaics
representing four continents
(Europe, America, Africa and
Asia), together with others
representing Art, Agriculture,
Science and Industry. Its
finest feature is its metal and
glass roof, crowned with a
magnificent central dome.
The roof was the first structure
in Italy to use metal and glass
in a structural way, rather than
just decoratively. The floors are
decorated with mosaics of the
signs of the zodiac; tourists Still Life (1920) by Giorgio Morandi in the Galleria d’Arte Moderna
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp565–9 and pp584–90


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Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Catalogue template “UK” LAYER
(Source v1.9)
Date 20th August 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm