Lonely Planet France’s Best Trips (Travel Guide)

FRANCE’S PDF


BEST TRIPS




38 AMAZING
ROAD TRIPS



PDF ebook
Edition 2nd Edition
Release Date Mar 2017
Pages 444
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1 PLAN YOUR TRIP

Start your planning here – We reveal the ultimate road trip list for France PLUS
the highlights you’ll discover on the way and practical advice to kick-start your trip…
PIERRE OGERON / GETTY IMAGES ©
hamlet of Le Bray. Omaha Beach with single/double rooms as well Internet Access
is another 4km further on, near
France ’s best sights and GUILLAUME LOUYOT / GETTY IMAGES © Vierville-sur-Mer. Climate Your Daily Budget as dorms. Hotels Hotels embrace every Wi- is available at major
experiences, and the road trips
airports, in most hotels, and
Budget: less than €130
budget and taste. Refuges
that will take you there. PAUL THOMPSON / GETTY IMAGES © TRIP HIGHLIGHT NEED TO » Dorm bed: €18–30 and gîtes d’étape (walkers’ at many cafes, restaurants,
7 Omaha Beach lodges) for hikers on trails in museums and tourist offi ces.
If anywhere symbolises » Double room in budget mountainous areas.
the courage and sacri ce KNOW # Paris hotel: €90 » Admission to many attractions Price ranges refer to a double
of D-Day, it’s Omaha – CURRENCY Brittany & Normandy GO Apr–Sep # GO May & Jun  rst Sunday of month: free room in high season, with private Money ATMs at every airport, most train
still known as ‘Bloody
bathroom, excluding breakfast.
» Lunch menus: less than €20
stations and on every second
Omaha’ to US veterans.
Euro (€)
street corner in towns and cities.
FRANCE It was here, on the 7km LANGUAGE Midrange: €130–220 € €€ €€€ less than €90 Visa, MasterCard and Amex
» Double room in a midrange
€90–190
widely accepted.
stretch of coastline be-
tween Vierville-sur-Mer,
hotel: €90–190
St-Laurent-sur-Mer and
more than €190
French
HIGHLIGHTS Colleville-sur-Mer, that NORMANDY & BRITTANY 8 D-DAY’S BEACHES VISAS Generally not required for GO late Dec–early Apr (skiing) # French Alps restaurants: €20–40 Tipping By law, restaurant and bar prices
» Lunch menus in gourmet
the most brutal  ghting
on D-Day took place. US
troops had to  ght their stays of up to 90 days (or or Jun & Jul (hiking) Top end: more than €220 Arriving in France are service compris (ie include a
15% service charge), so there’s
way across the beach some nationalities need a Warm to hot summers, mild winters GO Apr–Jun, Sep & Oct French Riviera GO Apr–Jun, Sep & Oct Corsica # hotel: €190–350 Gaulle (Paris) no need to leave a pourboire (tip).
Aéroport de Charles de
at all for EU nationals);
» Double room in a top-end
towards the heavily
#
Schengen visa.
» Top restaurant dinner:
defended cliff s, exposed
Trains, buses and RER suburban
to underwater obstacles,
15 to 30 minutes between 5am
Mild year-round
French Government
hidden mine elds and FUEL Petrol stations are common Warm to hot summers, cold winters menu €65, à la carte €100–150 trains run to the city centre every Useful Websites
withering cross re. The
and 11pm; night buses kick in
Mild summers, cold winters
Tourist Offi ce (www.france.fr)
Paris toll was heavy: of the around mains towns and Alpine climate Eating Restaurants & bistros from 12.30am to 5.30am. Fares Sights, activities, transport and
2500 casualties at Omaha
special-interest holidays.
larger towns. Unleaded
are €9.75 by RER, €6 to €17.50
What is there to say about on D-Day, more than costs around €1.28 per litre; Range from traditional to by bus and €8 by night bus. Flat Lonely Planet (www.
the City of Light that hasn’t 1000 were killed, most gazole (diesel) is usually at When to Go contemporary minimalist; urban fare of €50/55 for 30-minute taxi lonelyplanet.com/france) Travel
dining is international, rural
been said a thousand
within the  rst hour of
journey to right-/left-bank central
times before? Quite simply, WHY THIS IS A the landings. High on the bluff s least €0.15 cheaper. High Season (Jul & Aug) dining staunchly French. Paris (15% higher between 5pm tips, accommodation, forum
» Queues at big sights and on the road, especially August.
Brasseries Open from dawn
this is one of the world’s
and 10am, and Sundays).
and more.
CLASSIC TRIP
RENTAL CARS
Mappy (www.mappy.fr)
essential cities: sexy, suave, OLIVER BERRY, above Omaha, the ADA (www.ada.fr) » Christmas, New Year and Easter equally busy. until late, these casual eateries Aéroport d’Orly (Paris) Mapping and journey planning.
Normandy American
are great for dining in between
sophisticated and more
Linked to central Paris by
» Late December to March is high season in Alpine ski resorts.
than a little snooty. There’s WRITER Cemetery & Memorial Auto Europe (www. standard meal times. Orlyval rail then RER (€12.05)
a lifetime of experiences MOIRENC CAMILLE / HEMIS.FR / GETTY IMAGES © (%02 31 51 62 00; www.abmc. autoeurope.com) » Book accommodation and tables in the best restaurants well Cafes Ideal for breakfast and or bus (€7.50 to €12.50) every Opening Hours
here, from the treasures You’ll have heard the D-Day story gov; Colleville-sur-Mer; h9am- Avis (www.avis.com) in advance. light lunch; many morph into Banks 9am–noon and 2–5pm
of the Louvre to the cafes many times before, but there’s 6pm mid-Apr–mid-Sep, to 5pm bars after dark. 15 minutes between 5am and Mon to Fri or Tue to Sat
» Accommodation rates drop in southern France and other hot
Aragon then metro to the centre
of Montmartre – but you’ll
com)
need nerves of steel to brave nothing quite like standing on the mid-Sep–mid-Apr) provides a Europcar (www.europcar. Shoulder (Apr–Jun & Sep) Price ranges refer to the average 11pm. Or T7 tram to Villejuif-Louis Restaurants noon–2.30pm
beaches where this epic struggle
sobering reminder of the
by taxi costs €35/30 to right-/
the traffi c. played out. D-Day marked the human cost of the battle. Hertz (www.hertz.com) spots. cost of a two-course meal. (€3.60). The 25-minute journey and 7–11pm six days a week
Cafes 7am–11pm
turning point of WWII and heralded
Featured in the opening
Trip 1 the end for Nazism in Europe. Paying » Spring brings warm weather,  owers and local produce. € less than €20 left-bank central Paris (15% more Bars 7pm–1am
your respects to the soldiers who scenes of Saving Private IMPORTANT NUMBERS » The vendange (grape harvest) is reason to visit in autumn. €20–40 from 5pm to 10am, and Sundays).
laid down their lives in the name of Ryan, this is the largest Ambulance (SAMU) %15 Low Season (Oct–Mar) €€ €€€ more than €40 Shops 10am–noon and 2–7pm
American cemetery in
Police %17
freedom is an experience that will Europe, containing the Fire %18 Europe-wide emergency » Prices up to 50% lower than high season. Sleeping Mobile Phones
Mon to Sat
stay with you forever.
European and Australian phones
» Sights, attractions and restaurants open fewer days and
graves of 9387 American
work, but only American mobiles
soldiers, and a memorial
Top: Arromanches and Gold Beach to 1557 comrades ‘known %112 » Hotels and restaurants in quieter rural regions (such as the B&Bs Enchanting properties (cells) with 900 and 1800 MHz For more, see Driving in
shorter hours.
networks are compatible. Use a
Left & Right: Normandy American Cemetery &
France (p413).
only unto God’.
Paris View from in front of Basilique du Sacré-Coeur Memorial Dordogne) are closed. with maximum  ve rooms. French SIM card with a French
Hostels New-wave hostels are
number to make cheaper calls.
11 113 design-driven, lifestyle spaces 23
10 112 22
Trip Highlights The best Classic Trips Check out Expert Advice Discover
experiences and the road the routes that you even more with our City
trips to take you there. simply must drive. and Need to Know guides.
2 ON THE ROAD
38 amazing road trips – Inspirational images, local knowledge, special detours,
easy-to-read colour maps, expert advice and ways to link different trips together.

500 m Musée d’Art
# e 0 0 5 miles 10 km restaurants and dramatic # N 0 0 0.25 miles Jardin Contemporain (CAPC) A
views of the citadel of
R Ferrére
S E A
TRIP HIGHLIGHT M E D I T E R R A N E A N Île Rousse # 1 # ] # l L Calvi. Lunch here is a Cathédrale St-André R Fondaudège Public A
trip highlight.
Allées de Chartres
Lording over the city, the cathedral
Corsican Coast 2 Algajola Algajola # # ] # ¼ 2 / T30 # \ Pigna shabby-chic interior of Le (www.cathedrale-bordeaux.fr; place Jean Moulin; R Turenne Cours de Verdun R Boudet
From the stylish,
Allées de Bristoj

h2-6pm Mon, 10am-noon & 2-6pm Tue-Sun)
Esplanade des



This gloriously old-fash-
Matahari (%04 95 60 78 47;
dates from 1096, but most of what you


ioned, bucket-and-spade

Foothills of the 18 26 Cruiser address makes a great Pointe de la # Plage de l’Arinella # ] # 5 # ] # 4 3 # # ] # / ¼ T30 # \ Lumio # \ Cateri Feliceto # \ www.lematahari.com; Plage STRETCH see today was built in the 13th and 14th R du Dr Albert Bar
Quinconces

Citram Aquitaine
centuries. Next door is the gargoyled,


de l’Arinella; mains €25-35;
base. Its golden-sand
50m-high Gothic belfry, Tour Pey Ber-
BUENA VISTA IMAGES / GETTY IMAGES ©
Information Kiosk
beach is one of Corsica’s
Calvi
hnoon-3pm mid-Apr–Sep,

A Main Tourist
land (adult/child €5.50/free; h10am-1.15pm &
Alps Keep both hands fi rmly on the wheel during this longest and loveliest, Ravelleta # 0 ¸ D81B Suare Figarella Calenzana # \ LA BALAGNE mid-Sep) to the big win- YOUR LEGS 2-6pm Jun-Sep, 10am-12.30pm & 2-5.30pm Oct- R Castéja Cours Georges Clemenceau T
A Office
7-10.30pm Tue-Sun late May–

A
A Comédie





and budget accommoda-
high-drama ride along Corsica’s hairpin-laced
dows looking out to Calvi



May), erected between 1440 and 1466.
BORDEAUX
beyond the waves, this

Q de la Douane
tion options are superb.
The Walk » Head up rue Elisée Reclus and turn

west coast. Dangerously distracting views out



d'Eau
If your idea of luxury is
Maison du
Mairie, where you’ll  nd the Musée des Beaux-Arts.
special hideaway. Wooden
tables, strung on the sand
beach to sawtooth peak, blazing-red rock and
tra of crashing waves,
This exhilarating outdoor adventure links two gorgeous, wild the window fl it from glittering bay and bijou drifting off to the orches- Baie de Crovani # \ Ferayola # \ Argentella # \ hip beach spot is one very right to enter the small but elegant Jardin de la
Musée des Beaux-Arts
landscapes – the high green meadows and peaks of the Vercors, maquis-cloaked mountain; while the road – sand in pyjamas fresh Galeria # \ # \ Le Fango FILOSORMA Haut # \ parasols, immediately PROVENCE & SOUTHEAST FRANCE 26 CORSICAN COAST CRUISER Start/Finis
and frolicking on the
and topped with straw
Renaissance to the mid-20th century is
and the rugged canyon country of the Alpes de Haute-Provence.
out of bed at dawn, there
Musée des
is no  ner place to stay.
evoke a tropical paradise,

Beaux-Arts
on view at this  ne arts museum (www.


never far from the dazzling big blue – gives a
André

while cuisine is crea-

Bonieb



Next morning, jump
langouste (lobster), squid,
TRIP HIGHLIGHTS 6 DAYS whole new spin to the concept ‘Go Slow’: you aboard the trinighellu Girolata # \ / · D81 Parc Naturel de la Corse Régional Asco tive – think penne à la Distance 5km musba-bordeaux.fr; 20 cours d’Albret; adult/ Cours d'Al

Reclus
won’t average much more than 35km/h for the
child €4/2; h11am-6pm mid-Jul–mid-Aug,


R des Frères %
(trembler), aka the
fresh morue (cod sh) or
closed Tue rest of year), occupying two
wings of the 1770s-built Hôtel de Ville.
Tramway de la Balagne, a
l L # 1 # # # Lans-en-Vercors 0 km 475KM / 295 MILES duration of the trip. dinky little seaside train Col de # ] # # 6 # \ Curzu # \ Portinellu Vergio # \ a simple tuna steak pan- Duration 1½ hours Highlights include 17th-century Flem- monument, and continue 10
Juillet to the Maison du Vin de Bordeaux.
that trundles along sand-
Jaume Plensa. Grab a cafe terrace pew
ish, Dutch and Italian paintings.
fried to pink perfection.
GREAT FOR…
Escape to green meadows, covered tracks between la Croix Porto Gorges de Spelunca The Drive » Motor back up The Walk » Continue down cours d’Albret,
and enjoy the view.
limestone peaks and
stopping on request only
Time for a drink? In Bordeaux there’s
and continue south for another
breathtaking gorges JG 8.30pm Oct-May) and watch Île Rousse and Calvi, Les Calanques Golfe de Porto # ] # # ] # # 7 # \ Ota # \ Évisa # \ Cristinacce the hill to join the coastal T30 Good-looking Bordeaux, a Unesco across place Gambetta and onto cours Geo
Clemenceau. At place Tourny turn left onto rue
walk down attractive cours du Chapeau Rouge.
old men play boules.
holy of holies, the Bar à Vin (http://baravin.
France’s most exciting, vibrant and
Later, take a sunset
beaches en route.
de la Bourse.
4 # # # # 1 Île Rousse stroll past a Genoese at hidden coves and bijou de Piana 8 # \ # Piana # H p292 # \ Marignana World Heritage site, is one of Fondaudège, then take the second right. only one place to wet the whistle. Wine’s Turn right and head along t
Die # BEST TIME TO GO Sun-worshippers, watchtower and light- 54 p294 Soccia # \ L L LI IN N N NK K K dynamic cities. With pedestrian- Jardin Public bordeaux.com; 3 cours du 30 Juillet; h11am- Miroir d’Eau
Take a stroll through these gorgeous
celebrities and holiday-
10pm Mon-Sat), inside the hallowed Mai-
June and September,
110 km for good weather ing yachties create buzz house to the russet- D81 / · Y Y YO O OU U UR R R friendly streets, stately architecture gardens (cours de Verdun). On sunny days son du Vin de Bordeaux, is the place to Surrounded by magisterial public
towards Calvi on the coastal
wealth is the vast public square, place
la Pietra, from which
know their wine from their beer.
has come to feed the ducks here.
T30 and in the centre of Lumio,
straddling a long, sandy
crowds.
Chichilianne without peak summer in this busy beach town coloured rock of Île de The Drive » JContinue Vico # \ # \ Murzo # \ Muna T T TR R R RI IP P P and silky-smooth riverside it can seem as though half of Bordeaux come for a tipple with people who re
A hiker's favourite since curve of land backed by the town, founded by 6km south of Algajola, turn right de la Bourse. Its highlight is the world’s
on foot. This walking tour reveals the
swankiest street to people-watching hot spot,
I ESSENTIAL Begin the day on Île kayaking (%04 95 60 22 past leafy walled-garden Marseille and enjoy the onto rue Ferrére and continue to CAPC. place de la Comédie. ‘water mirror’ provides hours of enter-
then head down cours du Maréchal Foch, turn left
Sail by car ferry to
Mirroir d’Eau (h10am-10pm summer). This
1492, below awe-inspiring Mont Aiguille mountains and herb- Pascal Paoli in 1758, gets following signs for ‘Plage de Cargèse # \ D81 / · # \ Sagone Salice # \ o Var Delights promenades, it is made for exploring The Walk » Exit the park via cours de Verdun,
its colourful name. Sea
l’Arinella’ . Twist 2.6km downhill
scented maquis.
PHOTO
Sisteron The dizzying view of Rousse’s central tree- 55; www.cnir.org; rte du Port; residences secondaires to the Golfe de Sagone # \ Tiuccia d'Orcino Sant' Andrea- coastal treasures of the Var. best of downtown Bordeaux. Musée d’Art Contemporain Place
re ections in its thin slick of water are
the Gorges du Verdon
turquoise water lapping onto
Paoli, overlooked by the
arrangement Sep-Jun) around
squares, place de la Comédie is watched stunning. Every 23 minutes a dense fog-
#
from Belvédère de shaded square, place h9am-6pm Jul & Aug, by Plage de l’Arinella. # \ p Southern Seduction en Corse (CAPC) Built in 1824 as a warehouse for French One of the city’s grandest and busiest
add to the fun (and photo opportunities).
l’Escale. 21 classical columns of the promontory and its is- # \ Calcataggio Corsica is so seductive you colonial produce such as coff ee, cocoa, over by Bordeaux’s elegant 18th-century like vapor is ejected for three minutes to
building creates a dramatic backdrop
food market, built
opera-bordeaux.com), designed by Victor
extending your trip with this
320 km the Greek Temple–styled lets is an outdoor delight. TRIP HIGHLIGHT / · Afa might well  nd yourself peanuts and vanilla, this cavernous opera house, the Grand Théâtre (www. The Walk » Head up rue Fernand Philippart
Moustiers-Ste-Marie K BEST FAMILY around 1850. Get lost in 54 p294 3 Plage de D81 # \ for contemporary art at the CAPC (www. Louis of Chartres cathedral fame, to place du Parlement with its numerous cafes,
HIKE
Lavender-scented # # 7 # # the rabbit warren of old- The Drive » JFrom the l’Arinella Castagnola # \ PRUNELLI 10-day motor from Ajaccio capc-bordeaux.fr; 7 rue Ferrère; adult/child €4/2; and legendary Le Grand Hôtel (www. then weave along rue du Pas-St-Georg
gateway to Europe's The high-country loop roundabout at the western end If there is one crescent of around the island’s southern h11am-6pm Tue & Thu-Sun, to 8pm Wed). ghbordeaux.com), with Gordon Ramsay’s Siméon and rue de la Merci to turn left onto rue de
Grand Canyon Gorges du Verdon # m K from La Molière, near town alleys around the of town, pick up the T30 towards tip to Porto-Vecchio on the Cheverus and back to the cathedral.
not miss, it’s this serene,
pre-lunch aperitif on the
des Chartrons to the esplanade des Quinconces.
biggest head-turner is Sanna (2013),
Lans-en-Vercors. square, and at noon sip a Calvi; buy fresh fruit for the sand in Corsica you must Ajaccio # # ^ # m K 9 Prunelli east coast and beyond. Take this walk on Trips The Walk » Follow the river along the quai Michelin-starred restaurant. But the
journey from the open-air stall
207 terrace of venerable Café signposted ‘Marche Plein Air’ on rock-clad cove with one ‚ # \ Porticcio 1x Walk through this square, past the Girondins 411
Location Caption details to go hereVerdon River
h6am-2am Jun-Sep, 7am-
Gorges du Verdon Paddlers on the des Platanes (place Paoli; the roundabout. of Corsica’s  nest beach 300 km to 24 F G Golfe d'Ajaccio F G 25 289
410
288
Pick the right route with Get around easily with Discover even more with
inspirational images and colour maps and route detours, walking routes and
key trip highlights. directions in easy stages. ways to link your trips.
3 ROAD TRIP ESSENTIALS
Everything you need for your French road trip
Expert advice, practical tips, road etiquette and more.
petrol
windscreen essence es·son
pare-brise par·breez
through companies such as the following:
ROAD TRIP France Driving and conditions (ie the  ne print), the most Deals can be found on the internet and Road Distances (KM) battery batterie ba·tree
important thing to check is the franchise
Auto Europe (%in USA 888-223-5555;

184
(deductible/excess), which for a small car is
Bordeaux
811
DriveAway Holidays (%in Australia
www.autoeurope.com)
Brest
usually around €600 for damage and €800
623

764
ESSENTIALS Guide duce the excess by half, and perhaps to zero, 1300 363 500; www.driveaway.com.au) Caen Cahors Calais Chambéry 307 164 860 218 788 876 710 651 120 661 339 875 800 523 834 Language engine moteur mo·ter
568 376
for theft. With many companies, you can re-
up to €20. Your credit card may cover CDW
Holiday Autos (%in UK 020 3740 9859;
by paying a daily insurance supplement of
if you use it to pay for the rental but the car-

www.holidayautos.co.uk)
this – verify conditions and details with your
credit-card issuer to be sure.
FRANCE DRIVING GUIDE ......413 With stunning landscapes, superb highways and one of hire company won’t know anything about Rental cars with automatic transmission Cherbourg Clermont-Ferrand 835 564 807 647 399 358 805 619 867 124 743 566 269 548 378 461 923 717 295 572 2
are very much the exception in France;
they usually need to be ordered well in
advance and are more expensive than
Arranging your car hire or  y/drive
Dijon
Driving Licence & Documents ........................413 the world’s most scenic and comprehensive secondary considerably cheaper than a walk-in rental, manual cars. For insurance reasons, it is usually for- Grenoble Lille Lyon 827 997 831 657 1126 809 725 528 1018 651 1271
package before you leave home is usually
road networks, France is a road-tripper’s dream come true.
almost inaudible nasal consonant sound m, n or ng), the ‘funny’ u (ew in our guides) and the
Insurance .........................................................413
deep-in-the-throat r. Bearing these few points in mind and reading our pronunciation guides
bidden to take rental cars on ferries, eg to
Hiring a Car ......................................................413
but beware of website off ers that don’t
Bringing Your Own Vehicle .............................414
include a CDW or you may be liable for up
D
below as if they were English, you’ll be understood just  ne.
International car-hire companies:
Maps .................................................................414
Es
Est-ce que l’assurance
ay kom·preez
All rental cars registered in France have
to 100% of the car’s value.
Corsica.
Road Distances ................................................415
Does that include mileage?
making them easily identi able – including
Où est …?
Drivers must carry the following at all
to thieves. Never leave anything of value in
99 47 35; www.avis.com)
Es
Right or left? Drive on the right
Roads & Conditions ........................................415 DRIVING LICENCE & DOCUMENTS Driving Fast Facts  Avis (%08 21 23 07 60, from abroad 01 70 a distinctive number on the licence plate, Marseille Nantes Nice 700 513 858 326 298 810 1429 292 491 1168 67
Road Rules .......................................................416 times:   Manual or automatic? Manual FRANCE DRIVING GUIDE BRINGING YOUR OWN VEHICLE Budget (%08 25 00 35 64; www.budget.fr) a parked car, even in the boot (trunk). Paris 771 499 583 596 451 1070 232
W
Legal driving age 18
EasyCar (%in France 08 26 10 73 23, in

passport or an EU national ID card
Parking .............................................................417   most foreign licences can be used in France for  autoroutes (highways, motorways) the UK 0800 640 7000; www.easycar.com) BRINGING YOUR OWN VEHICLE Perpignan Strasbourg Toulouse Tours 1254 300 536 10
Entrée
Top speed limit 130km/h on
mak·see·mal per·meez
valid driving licence (permis de conduire;
o·rer·vwa

Fuel ...................................................................417
Q
maximale permise?
Europcar (%08 25 35 83 58; www.europ
What would you recommend?
m
wee/non

Satellite Navigation Systems ........................418

Safety ...............................................................418
Any foreign motor vehicle entering France
Is this the road to …?
Is
Qu’est-ce que vous
car.com)
par·don
Radio .................................................................418
up to a year)
Sortie
conseillez?
C’est la route pour …?
C

say la root poor …
Signature car Citroën 2CV

tifying its country of registration. Right-
C
Je voudrais …,
hand-drive vehicles brought from the UK
Est-ce que je peux
FRANCE TRAVEL GUIDE ....... 419 car-ownership papers, known as a carte usually in the packet of documents in the  www.hertz.com) Hertz (%01 41 91 95 25, 08 25 86 18 61; must display a sticker or licence plate iden- Clermont-Ferrand Dijon Grenoble Lille Lyon Marse
grise (grey card)
seel voo play
proof of third-party liability assurance

Sixt (%08 20 00 74 98; www.sixt.fr)
Merci.
sta·syo·nay ee·see
stationner ici?
glove compartment. Make sure the report
or Ireland must have de ectors affi xed to
s’il vous plaît.

(insurance)
Getting There & Away ..................................419 An International Driving Permit (IDP) is includes any proof that the accident was    ADA (%08 99 46 46 36; www.ada.fr) traffi c. Bayonne Bordeaux Brest bth t Caen Cahors Calais Chambéry t Cherbourg Au
Where’s a service station?
the headlights to avoid dazzling oncoming
I’m a vegetarian.
French car-hire companies:
Air......................................................................419
not your fault. If it was your fault you may
zher swee vay·zhay·ta·ryun/
sta·syon·ser·vees
station-service?
Car & Motorcycle ............................................419
DLM (www.dlm.fr)
not required when renting a car but can be
végétarienne.
be liable for a hefty insurance deductible/
Appelez la police!
France Cars (www.francecars.fr)
Call a doctor!
De rien.
Train..................................................................419
Please bring the bill.
Please  ll it up.
excess. Don’t sign anything you don’t fully
useful in the event of an accident or police
Le plein, s’il vous plaît.
(hih
b i
Do you speak English?
At
t
ler plun seel voo play
Apportez-moi
a·por·tay·mwa
Sea ...................................................................420
a·play un mayd·sun
Appelez un médecin!
L
police (%17).
ti
kf
authenticity of your home licence.
near Calais and Lille) with tolls (péages).
Renault Rent (%08 25 10 11 12; www.
bookshops, airports, supermarkets, tour-
Je voudrais (vingt)
ing maps are highly recommended as a

ist offi ces and service stations along the
French-registered cars have their
I don’t understand.
Directory A–Z ............................................... 420 stop, as it translates and vouches for the understand. If necessary, contact the  Locauto (%04 93 07 72 62; www.locauto.fr) MAPS Michelin’s excellent, detailed regional driv- tive routes. Look fo
insurance-company details printed on a lit-
driving companion, as they will help you
Je ne comprends pas.
litres.
lee·trer
Generously outfitted with rest stops.
renault-rent.com)
Accommodation .............................................420
Please check the oil/water.

Rent a Car (%08 91 700 200; www.
Institut Géographique National
tle green square affi xed to the windscreen
Routes Nationales (N, RN) National high-
autoroute.
Electricity ........................................................ 422
How much is this?
navigate back roads and explore alterna-

(windshield).
I’d like to
ways. Some sections have divider strips.
C’est combien?
rentacar.fr)
say kom·byun
INSURANCE
Food ................................................................. 422
seel voo play
Gay & Lesbian Travellers ............................... 423
s’il vous plaît.
maps as well as an all-France volume, France –
au tiers) is compulsory for all vehicles
Help!
I need a mechanic.
4WD
highways and roads.
zhay ber·zwun dun
in France, including cars brought from
Routes, Autoroutes.
automatic/ une auto-
Au secours!
Internet Access .............................................. 423 Third-party liability insurance (assurance Priority to the Right (IGN; www.ign.fr) Publishes regional fold-out Routes Départementales (D) Local ACCOMMODATION EMERGENCIES o skoor hire a/an ... lou
insured in other European countries can
To hire a car in France, you’ll generally
Sells excellent, tear-proof yellow-orange
Money .............................................................. 423 abroad. Normally, cars registered and HIRING A CAR Under the priorité à droite (‘priority to the right’) rule, any car entering an inter- Michelin (www.michelin-boutique.com) Routes Communales (C, V)

roads.
Opening Hours ................................................424 circulate freely. Contact your insurance need to be over 21 years old, have had a section (including a T-junction) from a road (including a tiny village backstreet) 1:200,000-scale regional maps tailor-made fo
es·ker voo za·vay
company before leaving home to make
cross-country driving, with precise coverage of
on your right has the right-of-way. Locals assume every driver knows this, so
La voiture/moto est
la vwa·tewr/mo·to ay
driving licence for at least a year, and have
Public Holidays ...............................................424
Est-ce que vous avez
tom·bay on pan
tombée en panne.
an international credit card. Drivers under
don’t be surprised if they courteously cede the right-of-way when you’re about to
Safe Travel ......................................................424
sure you’re covered, and to verify whom to
How much is it per night/person?
25 usually have to pay a surcharge (frais
kel ay ler pree
smaller back roads.
turn from an alley onto a highway – and boldly assert their rights when you’re the
call in case of a breakdown or accident.
off er some of France’s most enjoyable
Telephone ....................................................... 425
I had an accident.
zhay ew un ak·see·don
jeune conducteur) of €25 to €35 per day.
driving experiences.
Quel est le prix
Motorcyclists will  nd France great for
For in-depth language information How much is it daily/weekly?
par nwee/per·son
In a minor accident with no injuries,
Tourist Information ........................................ 425
Travellers with Disabilities ............................426
the easiest way for drivers to sort things
one zipping down a main road.
Quel est le tarif par
Priorité à droite is suspended (eg on arterial roads) when you pass a sign show-
par nuit/personne?
zhoor/ser·men
Car-hire companies provide mandatory
J’ai eu un accident.
Planet’s French Phrasebook. You’ll jour/semaine?
Visas ................................................................426
ning scenery. Just make sure your wet-
as collision-damage waivers (CDW, or assur-
weather gear is up to scratch.
France has one of Europe’s densest high-
a horizontal bar through the square lozenge reinstates the priorité à droite rule.
ance tous risques) vary greatly from com-
 nd it at shop.lonelyplanet.com, or
to  ll out a Constat Amiable d’Accident
LANGUAGE ............................. 427 out with their insurance companies is third-party liability insurance but things such ing an upended yellow square with a black square in the middle. The same sign with ROADS & CONDITIONS touring, with high-quality roads and stun-
When you arrive at a roundabout at which you do not have the right of way (ie
Automobile (accident report), a standard-
pany to company. When comparing rates
way networks. There are four types of
ised way of recording important details
the cars already in the roundabout do), you’ll often see signs reading vous n’avez
you can buy Lonely Planet’s iPhone
about what happened. In rental cars it’s
Can you show me (on the map)?
intercity roads:
phrasebooks at the Apple App Store.
Pouvez-vous m’indiquer poo·vay·voo mun·dee·kay
413 pas la priorité (you do not have right of way) or cédez le passage (give way). 415 (sur la carte)? (sewr la kart)
427
414

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd



























FRANCE’S

BEST TRIPS




38 AMAZING
ROAD TRIPS















This edition written and researched by
Jean-Bernard Carillet, Alexis Averbuck, Oliver Berry,
Kerry Christiani, Gregor Clark, Anita Isalska, Catherine
Le Nevez, Hugh McNaughtan, Daniel Robinson, Regis St
Louis, Nicola Williams

SYMBOLS IN THIS BOOK CONTENTS

Top Tips History & Essential
Culture Photo
Link Family Walking
Your Trips Tour
Tips from Food & 5 Eating PLAN YOUR TRIP
Locals Drink
Trip Outdoors 4 Sleeping
Detour
Welcome to France ......................... 7
France Highlights ............................ 8
% Telephone i Internet s Swimming
Number Access Pool If You Like... ................................... 20
h Opening Hours W Wi-Fi Access c Family- Need to Know ................................. 22
p Parking v Vegetarian Friendly
a Air- Selection City Guide ........................................24
Conditioning
France by Region ........................... 30
France Classic Trips ...................... 32
MAP LEGEND
Routes Trips
Trip Route Trip
Trip Detour 1 Numbers ON THE ROAD
Linked Trip # Trip Stop
9
Walk Route
Tollway 2 Walking tour
Freeway Trip Detour Essential
Primary 1
Secondary Route Markers France ...................21 Days 35
Tertiary
Lane E44 E-road network
Unsealed Road M100 National network
Plaza/Mall Hydrography PARIS & NORTHEASTERN
Steps River/Creek FRANCE ............................47
Tunnel Intermittent River
Pedestrian
Overpass Swamp/Mangrove 2 A Toast
Walk Track/Path Canal to Art .......................7 Days 51
Water
Boundaries Dry/Salt/
International Intermittent Lake 3 Northern
State/Province Glacier Coast .................. 2–4 Days 59
Cliff Areas
Wall
Beach In Flanders
Population Cemetery 4 Fields ......................3 Days 67
Capital (National) (Christian)
Cemetery (Other)
Capital
(State/Province) Park 5 Champagne
City/Large Town Forest Taster ......................3 Days 75
Town/Village Urban Area
Transport Sportsground 6 Alsace
Airport Accents ..................3 Days 85
Cable Car/
Funicular
Parking
Train/Railway
Tram
Underground
Train Station

CONTENTS




NORMANDY & LOIRE VALLEY &
BRITTANY .........................95 CENTRAL FRANCE ..........135

7 Monet’s 99 b Châteaux of
the Loire .................5 Days 139
Normandy ...............4 Days
8 D-Day’s c Caves & Cellars
Beaches ..................3 Days 107
of the Loire .............3 Days 149
9 Breton d Volcanoes of
the Auvergne ..........4 Days 159
Coast .......................8 Days 117
a Tour des e Medieval
Fromages ................5 Days 125
Burgundy ................6 Days 167
f Route des
Grands Crus ............2 Days 175









Paris &
Normandy & Northeastern France
p47
Brittany
p95
Loire Valley &
Central France
p135

Alps, Jura &
Atlantic Coast Rhône Valley
p347 p185

Pyrenees & Provence &
Southwest France Southeast
p307 France p233





3

Contents cont.


ALPS, JURA & t The Cathar
RHÔNE VALLEY ..............185 Trail .........................3 Days 319
g The u Cheat’s
Compostela ............7 Days 327
Jura .........................5 Days 189
h Alpine v The
Pyrenees ................7 Days 335
Adventure ...............6 Days 197
i Foothills of ATLANTIC COAST ...........347
the Alps ..................6 Days 207
j Beaujolais w Basque
Country ...................7 Days 351
Villages ..................2 Days 215
k Rhône x Heritage Wine
Country ...................5 Days 359
Valley ......................5 Days 223
y Gourmet
Dordogne ................3 Days 369
PROVENCE &
SOUTHEAST FRANCE .....233 z Cave Art of the
Vézère Valley .........3 Days 377
l Roman { Dordogne’s Fortified
Provence ................7 Days 237
Villages ..................5 Days 385
m Lavender | The Lot
Route ..................4–5 Days 247
Valley ......................3 Days 393
n Riviera } Atlantic
Crossing .................4 Days 255
o Var to Med ...................10 Days 401
Delights ..................5 Days 267

p Southern Seduction ROAD TRIP
en Corse ...............10 Days 277
q Corsican Coast ESSENTIALS ........412
Cruiser ....................5 Days 287
r The France Driving Guide ....................413
Camargue ...............4 Days 297
France Travel Guide .....................419
PYRENEES & Language .......................................427
SOUTHWEST FRANCE ....307 Index ..............................................431

s Pont du Gard to
Viaduc de Millau ...5 Days 311
4 Nice Parasols on Baie des Anges FRASER HALL / GETTY IMAGES ©



©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd





























































Provence Lavender fields
6

MICHAEL BUSSELLE / GETTY IMAGES ©







WELCOME TO

FRANCE




Iconic monuments, island abbeys, fabulous
food, world-class wines – there are so many
reasons to plan your very own French voyage.
Whether you’re planning on cruising the
corniches of the French Riviera, getting lost
among the snowcapped Alps or tasting your
way around Champagne’s hallowed vineyards,
this is a nation that’s made for road trips and
full of unforgettable routes that will plunge
you straight into France’s heart and soul.
There’s a trip for everyone here: family
travellers, history buffs, culinary connoisseurs
and outdoors adventurers. And if you’ve only
got time for one trip, why not make it one of
our eight Classic Trips, which take you to the
very best France has to offer. Turn the page for
more.

Buckle up, and bon voyage – you’re in for quite
a ride.















7

FRANCE HIGHLIGHTS Champagne Taster 5 Taste your way around the cellars of Champagne on this fizz-fuelled trip. 3 DAYS # Saarbrücken G E R M A N Y # Strasbourg ^ ] # Châteaux of the Loire 11 France's greatest châteaux, from medieval towers to














N E T H E R L A N D S # Rotterdam Düsseldorf ^ # # _ LUXEMBOURG CITY ^ MOSELLE Nancy ] # VOSGES Colmar HAUTE- MARNE HAUTE- SAÔNE Dijon Besançon # ] ] # # \ JURA Lake Geneva Geneva ] # # ] \ # Annecy ^ # # Bourgoin- ] Jallieu 44 44 44 4








^ # ^ # 21 DAYS ^ _ # B E L G I U M Reims # ] MARNE # Troyes ] Abbaye de Fontenay # \ Parc Naturel du Morvan Chalon- sur-Saône LOIRE Lyon Valence ARDÈCHE Avignon ] # Nîmes ] # Montpellier Golfe de Beauduc 10 DAYS
Den Haag Essential France This grand tour visits some of France’s most unmissable AISNE # Provins \ ] # Auxerre # \ Vézelay Régional NIÈVRE ] # Clermont- Parc Ferrand Naturel Régional du Livradois-Forez Parc Naturel Régional des Grands Causses # Narbonne

sights.

PAS- DE-CALAIS ] # Péronne SOMME # PARIS CHER Bourges # \ # Montluçon \ Parc Naturel Régional des Volcans d'Auvergne Parc Naturel Régional du Haut-Languedoc Carcassonne \ AUDE ] : : : : : : : : : : seas. :
1 OISE _ Chartres LOIRET # Orléans ] # Chambord # Châteauroux Guéret \ # CREUSE Parc Naturel Régional de Millevaches en Limousin # Figeac \ Albi # \ TARN \ # \ sur-Ariège # Tarascon- 38 : Golfo de Valencia
44 44 4 44 4 44 Dieppe ] # Rouen # ^ # ^ \ # Vendôme ] # \ ] # Blois \ INDRE Limoges \ # # \ LOT Sarlat- la-Canéda Parc Naturel Régional Causses de Quercy Toulouse # ] : _ # VELLA : : : : : : : : : : : 200 km


44 44 # LONDON _ 444 444 4 4 4 44 3 DAYS THE CHANNEL (LA MANCHE) Honfleur ] # # Ouistreham ] # Caen Evreux # ] ORNE # Alençon ^ ] # # ] Régional Loire Tours \ # Chinon # Poitiers \ VIENNE Parc Naturel # Cognac Régional Périgord- Limousin


D-Day's Beaches Follow the course of the WWII invasion on Normandy's beaches. Bayeux # ] ^ # ^ Falaise Forêt des Andaines # Fougères ] # ] Vitre Le Mans ANJOU Parc Naturel Anjou Touraine Parc Naturel Interrégional du Marais Poitevin \ #





E N G L A N D 8 ] # Cherbourg St-Lô St-Malo ] # # ] ^ # Rennes ^ # Nantes La Rochelle Bay of Biscay # \ Biarritz : : : : : : : : : : : : : 31 : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : :



8 44 Dinan : : : : : ATLANTIC OCEAN : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : e #




# ] : : :

Champagne Taster Taste your way around the cellars of Champagne on this 3 DAYS fizz-fuelled trip. G E R M A N Y Châteaux of the Loire France's greatest châteaux, from medieval towers to royal 44 44 4 5 DAYS palaces. _ # 44 44 44 444 444 444 44







LUXEMBOURG CITY ^ MOSELLE ] # Colmar BERN Lake Geneva ] # Chamonix 444 444 4 ] # # \ 444 444 444 4 44 4 44 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 44 44 4 44 44 4 4 4 4 44 44 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 44 4 4 4 4 4 4 44 4 4 ] HAUTES- ALPES 44 44 Réser
5 # Saarbrücken # Strasbourg ^ 11 # _ 44 4 444 444 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 17 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 # Sestriere # MONACO _ ] # # # ] ] Antibes villages and nature along the Med coast. 4 DAYS




^
#
N E T H E R L A N D S # Rotterdam Düsseldorf _ # Nancy ] # VOSGES HAUTE- MARNE HAUTE- SAÔNE Dijon Besançon # ] # ] \ # JURA Geneva Annecy ^ # # Bourgoin- ] Jallieu ISÈRE ] # Grenoble Parc Naturel Régional du # ] Vercors PROVENCE # ] # Arles ] :






^ # ^ # 21 DAYS ^ _ # B E L G I U M Reims # ] MARNE # Troyes ] Abbaye de Fontenay # \ Parc Naturel Régional du Morvan Chalon- sur-Saône LOIRE Lyon Valence ARDÈCHE Avignon # ] Nîmes ] # Montpellier Golfe de Beauduc 10 DAYS
Den Haag Essential France This grand tour visits some of France’s most unmissable AISNE # Provins \ ] # Auxerre \ # Vézelay NIÈVRE ] # Clermont- Parc Ferrand Naturel Régional du Livradois-Forez Parc Naturel Régional des Grands Causses # Narbonne # Perpignan Atl


sights.

PAS- DE-CALAIS ] # Péronne SOMME # PARIS CHER Bourges \ # # Montluçon \ Parc Naturel Régional des Volcans d'Auvergne Parc Naturel Régional du Haut-Languedoc Carcassonne \ AUDE ] : : : : : : : : : : seas. :
1 OISE _ Chartres LOIRET # Orléans ] # Chambord # Châteauroux Guéret # \ CREUSE Parc Naturel Régional de Millevaches en Limousin # Figeac \ Albi # \ TARN \ # \ sur-Ariège # Tarascon- 38 : Golfo de Valencia

44 4 44 44 4 44 Dieppe # ] Rouen ^ # # ^ \ # Vendôme ] # \ # ] Blois \ INDRE Limoges # \ # \ LOT Sarlat- Parc Naturel Régional Causses de Quercy Toulouse # ] : # _ VELLA : : : : : : : : : : : 200 km

44 44 # LONDON _ 444 444 4 4 4 44 3 DAYS THE CHANNEL (LA MANCHE) Honfleur # ] # Ouistreham # Caen Evreux # ] ORNE # Alençon ^ ] # # ] Régional Loire Tours \ # Chinon # Poitiers \ VIENNE Parc Naturel # Cognac Régional Périgord- Limousin la-Canéda A



D-Day's Beaches Follow the course of the WWII invasion on Normandy's beaches. Bayeux ] # ] ^ ^ # Falaise Forêt des Andaines # Fougères ] # ] Vitre Le Mans ANJOU Parc Naturel Anjou Touraine Parc Naturel Interrégional du Marais Poitevin \ # \ # Saintes \





E N G L A N D 8 44 ] # Cherbourg St-Lô St-Malo ] # # ] Dinan # ^ Rennes ^ # Nantes : : : La Rochelle ATLANTIC OCEAN Bay of Biscay \ # Biarritz : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : 31 : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : :




:
:
: : : : : : : :

] #

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
France’s best sights and
experiences, and the road trips
that will take you there.







FRANCE


HIGHLIGHTS










Paris
What is there to say about
the City of Light that hasn’t
been said a thousand
times before? Quite simply,
this is one of the world’s
essential cities: sexy, suave
and sophisticated. There’s
a lifetime of experiences
here, from the treasures
of the Louvre to the cafes
of Montmartre – but you’ll
need nerves of steel to brave
the traffic.
Trip 1















10

PIERRE OGERON / GETTY IMAGES ©





























































Paris View from in front of Basilique du Sacré-Coeur
11

HIGHLIGHTS































Vézère Valley Prehistoric painting from the Grotte de Lascaux

Vézère Valley Mont D-Day
Prehistoric people left St-Michel Beaches
an astonishing legacy of
paintings and sculptures Perched on an island and On 6 June 1944 the
largest invasion the
connected to the Norman
in the caves of the Vézère
Valley. These artworks coast by a causeway, world has ever seen
provide a glimpse into this 11th-century abbey stormed ashore onto the
the lives of our ancient is one of France’s most beaches of Normandy.
ancestors – but opinion is recognisable sights. Now known as D-Day,
Crowned by spires, ringed
this audacious assault
divided on what purpose
they served. Were they by ramparts and thronged marked the turning point
of WWII, and on Trip 8:
sacred works imbued by crowds, it looks like it
with magical significance, has fallen from the pages D-Day’s Beaches, you’ll
or simply prehistoric of a fairy tale. It’s a long see many reminders of
climb to the top, but the
the fateful campaign –
posters? The truth is, no
one knows. Decide for views are worth every from the forbidding guns
yourself on Trip 35: Cave step. We’ve linked it with of Longues-sur-Mer to
Art of the Vézère Valley. other unmissable sights in the moving cemetery
Trip 1: Essential France. above Omaha Beach.
Trip z Trip 1 Trip 8
12

HEMIS / ALAMY STOCK PHOTO © KANUMAN / SHUTTERSTOCK ©


































Mont St-Michel Island abbey off the Norman coast

The Pyrenees
BEST ROADS FOR DRIVING With their lofty passes
and wide-open skies, the
Riviera Crossing Cliff roads and sparkling seas: Pyrenees have the wow
the drive of a lifetime. Trip n factor. Running along the
Franco–Spanish border,
Gorges du Tarn Drive through a dramatic ravine they’re home to some
in the Cévennes hills. Trip s of the nation’s wildest
landscapes, and some of
Route des Vins d’Alsace Meander among vines its hairiest roads – the
with views of the Vosges. Trip 6 closest you’ll get to a
traffic jam here is finding
Col de l’Iseran Brave the Alps’ highest road yourself stuck behind a
pass. Trip h herd of cows. Take Trip 31:
The Pyrenees through
The Lot Valley Cruise limestone cliffs beside the quiet valleys, traditional
Lot River. Trip | villages and mountain-top
observatories.
Trip v

13

HIGHLIGHTS


























































Burgundy Vineyard near Beaune
14

DUCHY / SHUTTERSTOCK ©
French Riviera
If it’s a top-down, open-road,
wind-in-your-hair drive
you’re after, there’s only one
corner of France that hits the
mark, and that’s the flashy
Riviera. Synonymous with
glitz and glamour since the
19th century, it’s still one of
Europe’s most fashionable
spots. Trip 23: Riviera
Crossing twists through
hilltop towns and hairpin-
bend roads – just remember
to pack a camera and a pair
of shades.
Trips n o




BEST TOWNS FOR
WINE-LOVERS

Beaune The heart and soul of
Burgundy wine. Trip f
St-Émilion Winemakers
outnumber residents in this
honey-stoned town. Trip }
Bergerac Lesser-known
vintages on the edge of the
Dordogne. Trip y
Épernay Tour the cellars of
Champagne’s classic brands.
Trip 5
Colmar Sip Alsatian wines with
a view of the canals. Trip 6









15

SHAUN EGAN / GETTY IMAGES ©

HIGHLIGHTS


























































Provence The hilltop village of Gordes
16

SIMEONE HUBER / GETTY IMAGES ©



































Loire Valley Château de Chambord

Hilltop Châteaux of Champagne
Villages the Loire Vineyards
From red-roofed hamlets For sky’s-the-limit Let’s face it – celebrations
to hillside hideaways, extravagance, don’t miss wouldn’t be the same
France’s villages perchés Trip 11: Châteaux of the without a bottle of bubbly.
will be a highlight of your Loire. Constructed by The world’s most exclusive
trip. Most are medieval, France’s aristocratic elite tipple is produced on a
and replete with flower- between the 15th and 17th handful of Champagne
filled lanes, hidden centuries, these lavish vineyards, many of
courtyards and quiet mansions were designed which offer tours and the
squares. Life ticks along at to show off their owners’ chance to taste the fruits
a snail’s pace, and there’s wealth – something of their labour. Trip 5:
nowhere better to settle they manage to achieve Champagne Taster takes
in for a leisurely lunch. in spectacular fashion. in tiny family producers
Trip 22: Lavender Route Chambord’s the jewel in as well as big-name
travels through some of the crown, but there are châteaux around Épernay
Provence’s prettiest. many more to visit. and Reims.
Trips 6 jm { Trip b Trip 5

17

BARBARA VAN ZANTEN / GETTY IMAGES ©

HIGHLIGHTS










































The Camargue Brittany’s Coastline
Sprawling across the western edge of Golden beaches, surf-battered cliffs,
Provence, this huge natural wetland is quiet creeks and lonely light houses –
a paradise for nature-lovers, with its Trip 9: Breton Coast is one long parade
population of seabirds, wild horses and of postcard views. Some stretches of
pink flamingos. Trip 27: The Camargue the coastline are busy, while others feel
takes a leisurely wander along the back wonderfully wild and empty – so plan
roads, with plenty of time factored in your route, pack a decent map and just
along the way to immerse yourself in hit the Breton road.
the unique cowboy culture.
Trip 9
Trip r


18

BARBARA VAN ZANTEN / GETTY IMAGES ©
(left) Brittany Coastal fort dating from the 13th century
(below) Pont du Gard Huge Roman aqueduct near Nîmes
NICOLAS THIBAUT / GETTY IMAGES ©







































BEST HILLTOP
Pont du Gard VILLAGES
The scale of this Roman aqueduct is Gordes The quintessential Provençal
astonishing: 35 arches straddle the village. Trip m
275m upper tier, and it once carried
20,000 cu metres of water per day. Vézelay Get spiritual in this ancient
View it from beside the Gard River; pilgrim village. Trip e
clamber along the top deck; or arrive
after dark to see it lit up in impressive St-Paul de Vence Dreamy Med vistas
fashion. It marks the start of Trip 28: have lured countless artists. Trip n
Pont du Gard to Viaduc du Millau,
which travels through the Cévennes to St-Jean Pied de Port Fortified town
another amazing bridge.
overlooking the Spanish border. Trip w
Trips l s
19

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd






IF YOU DORLING KINDERSLEY / GETTY IMAGES ©

LIKE...








Camembert World-famous cheese

Art French Cuisine Nature
Impressionist French food might With seven national
masterpieces, modernist be synonymous with parks and a host of other
marvels, landmark sophistication, but there’s protected areas, France’s
museums – France’s more to this foodie nation natural landscapes are
astonishing artistic legacy than fine dining – there’s a ripe for outdoor adventure.
is guaranteed to be one of whole culinary culture to d Volcanoes of the
the most memorable parts experience, whether that’s
of your trip. guzzling oysters, hunting Auvergne Discover this
for truffles, savouring chain of extinct volcanoes
2 A Toast to Art cheeses or buying fresh that stretches across much
Inspiring architecture baguettes from a village of central France.
meets cutting-edge art boulangerie (bakery).
on this trip via the new h Alpine Adventure
Louvre-Lens museum, the a Tour des Fromages Hike trails and spot wildlife
Centre Pompidou-Metz Taste your way around among the peaks and ski
and Nancy’s art nouveau Normandy’s world-famous resorts of France’s highest
architecture. cheeses – Camembert, Pont mountain chain.
L’Évêque, Livarot and more. n Riviera Crossing Keep
7 Monet’s Normandy
Cruise through the k Rhône Valley Fill up your eyes peeled for pink
countryside that inspired on Lyonnaise cuisine in a flamingos and wild horses in
the impressionists, finishing cosy bouchon (small bistro), France’s largest wetlands.
with a walk around Monet’s then head for Montélimar to q Corsican Coast
own lily garden. indulge in nougat treats. Cruiser Escape the French
l Roman Provence y Gourmet Dordogne mainland for a cruise around
Experience Provence’s For rich French food, there’s the wild landscapes and
fantastic Roman legacy, nowhere like the Dordogne, coastline of Corsica, aptly
with exceptionally well- the spiritual home of foie named the île de beauté.
preserved ruins integrated gras and the black truffle.
into modern cities.


20

OWEN FRANKEN / GETTY IMAGES ©











Burgundy Wine tasting

Wine Tasting Architecture Historic Sites
If there’s one thing France France has never been With a history stretching
knows about, it’s wine. shy about showing off back several millennia, it’s
Viticulture has been a its taste for extravagant little wonder that France
cornerstone of French architecture. Castles is littered with reminders
culture for hundreds of and palaces, abbeys and of its past – both ancient
years, and the merest cathedrals – France offers and recent.
mention of the nation’s them all, and more. 4 In Flanders Fields
top vineyards makes even
hardened sommeliers go 1 Essential France Take an emotional tour
weak at the knees. From Mont St-Michel to the around the battlegrounds
palace of Versailles, this and cemeteries of the
5 Champagne Taster route explores France’s Great War.
Cellars echo to the sound unmissable sites. 8 D-Day’s Beaches
of popping corks on this
effervescent adventure b Châteaux of the Loire The events of D-Day still
through Champagne’s Resplendent châteaux line resonate along the beaches
hallowed brands. the banks of the Loire, each of Normandy, while
one more extravagant than museums and memorials
6 Alsace Accents the last. provide historical context.
Glossy vines and traditional
villages form the backdrop t The Cathar Trail e Medieval Burgundy
to this meander along the Trek across the parched Once an independent
Route des Vins d’Alsace. Languedoc plains, which duchy, Burgundy is home
feature crumbling fortresses to marvellous medieval
f Route des Grands and hilltop strongholds. buildings and timeless
Crus Few regions command villages.
more cachet in the wine u Cheat’s Compostela l Roman Provence
world than Burgundy. Follow Tick off churches and
the trail along the Côte de cathedrals along the old Travel back to the heyday
Nuits and Côte d’Or. pilgrim route from Le Puy- of Gaul with an expedition
en-Velay to St-Jean Pied de around southern France’s
Port. Roman ruins.

21

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
NEED TO Climate

KNOW



CURRENCY Brittany & Normandy # # Paris
GO May & Jun
GO Apr–Sep
Euro (€)
LANGUAGE
French

VISAS
Generally not required for # French Alps
stays of up to 90 days (or GO late Dec–early Apr (skiing)
at all for EU nationals); or Jun & Jul (hiking)
some nationalities need a French Riviera
Schengen visa. GO Apr–Jun, Sep & Oct #
Warm to hot summers, mild winters Corsica #
FUEL Warm to hot summers, cold winters GO Apr–Jun, Sep & Oct
Petrol stations are common Mild year-round
around main towns and Mild summers, cold winters
Alpine climate
larger towns. Unleaded
costs around €1.28 per litre;
gazole (diesel) is usually at
least €0.15 cheaper. When to Go
High Season (Jul & Aug)
RENTAL CARS » Queues at big sights and on the road, especially August.
ADA (www.ada.fr) » Christmas, New Year and Easter equally busy.
Auto Europe (www. » Late December to March is high season in Alpine ski resorts.
autoeurope.com)
» Book accommodation and tables in the best restaurants well
Avis (www.avis.com) in advance.
Europcar (www.europcar.
com) Shoulder (Apr–Jun & Sep)
Hertz (www.hertz.com) » Accommodation rates drop in southern France and other hot
spots.
IMPORTANT NUMBERS » Spring brings warm weather, flowers and local produce.
Ambulance (SAMU) %15 » The vendange (grape harvest) is reason to visit in autumn.
Police %17 Low Season (Oct–Mar)
Fire %18 » Prices up to 50% lower than high season.
Europe-wide emergency » Sights, attractions and restaurants open fewer days and
%112 shorter hours.
» Hotels and restaurants in quieter rural regions (such as the
Dordogne) are closed.




22

with single/double rooms as well
Your Daily Budget as dorms. Internet Access
Budget: less than €130 Hotels Hotels embrace every Wi-fi is available at major
» Dorm bed: €18–30 budget and taste. Refuges airports, in most hotels, and
and gîtes d’étape (walkers’
» Double room in budget lodges) for hikers on trails in at many cafes, restaurants,
museums and tourist offices.
hotel: €90 mountainous areas.
» Admission to many attractions Price ranges refer to a double
first Sunday of month: free room in high season, with private Money
» Lunch menus: less than €20 bathroom, excluding breakfast: ATMs at every airport, most train
stations and on every second
Midrange: €130–220 € less than €90 street corner in towns and cities.
» Double room in a midrange Visa, MasterCard and Amex
hotel: €90–190 €€ €90–190 widely accepted.
» Lunch menus in gourmet €€€ more than €190
restaurants: €20–40 Tipping
Top end: more than €220 Arriving in France By law, restaurant and bar prices
» Double room in a top-end Aéroport de Charles de are service compris (ie include a
hotel: €190–350 15% service charge), so there’s
no need to leave a pourboire (tip).
» Top restaurant dinner: Gaulle (Paris)
menu €65, à la carte €100–150 Trains, buses and RER suburban
trains run to the city centre every Useful Websites
15 to 30 minutes between 5am
Eating and 11pm; night buses kick in French Government
Tourist Office (www.france.fr)
Restaurants & bistros from 12.30am to 5.30am. Fares Sights, activities, transport and
Range from traditional to are €9.75 by RER, €6 to €17.50 special-interest holidays.
contemporary minimalist; urban by bus and €8 by night bus. Flat Lonely Planet (www.
dining is international, rural fare of €50/55 for 30-minute taxi lonelyplanet.com/france) Travel
dining staunchly French. journey to right-/left-bank central
Paris (15% higher between 5pm tips, accommodation, forum
Brasseries Open from dawn and 10am, and Sundays). and more.
until late, these casual eateries Mappy (www.mappy.fr)
are great for dining in between Aéroport d’Orly (Paris) Mapping and journey planning.
standard meal times. Linked to central Paris by
Cafes Ideal for breakfast and Orlyval rail then RER (€12.05)
light lunch; many morph into or bus (€7.50 to €12.50) every Opening Hours
bars after dark. 15 minutes between 5am and Banks 9am–noon and 2–5pm
11pm. Or T7 tram to Villejuif-Louis
Price ranges refer to the average Aragon then metro to the centre Monday to Friday or Tuesday to
cost of a two-course meal: Saturday
(€3.60). The 25-minute journey
by taxi costs €35/30 to right-/ Restaurants noon–2.30pm
€ less than €20 and 7–11pm six days a week
left-bank central Paris (15% more
€€ €20–40 from 5pm to 10am, and Sundays). Cafes 7am–11pm
€€€ more than €40 Bars 7pm–1am
Mobile Phones Shops 10am–noon and 2–7pm
Monday to Saturday
European and Australian phones
Sleeping work, but only American mobiles
B&Bs Enchanting properties (cells) with 900 and 1800 MHz
with maximum five rooms. networks are compatible. Use a For more, see France Driving
Hostels New-wave hostels are French SIM card with a French Guide (p413).
design-driven, lifestyle spaces number to make cheaper calls.
23

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
125
PARIS
1k26 If ever a city needed no introduction,
CITY former and style icon for centuries,
2427 it’s Paris – a trendsetter, fashion
GUIDE edge. Whether you’re here to tick
n}29 and still very much at the cutting
off the landmarks or seek out the
secret corners, Paris fulfils all your
expectations, and leaves you wanting
more.















































Paris Basilique du Sacré-Couer
24

TOP EXPERIENCES
Getting Around
Driving in Paris is a nightmare. Happily, ¨ Eiffel Tower at Twilight
there’s no need for a car. The metro is fast, Any time is a good time to take in the
frequent and efficient; tickets cost €1.80 panorama from the top of the ‘Metal
(day passes €11.15) and are valid on the city’s Asparagus’ (as Parisians snidely
buses. Hire bikes from 1800 Vélib (http:// call it) – but the twilight view is extra
en.velib.paris.fr) stations; insert a credit card, special (www.toureiffel.fr).
authorise a €150 deposit and pedal away.
Day passes €1.70; first 30 minutes free, ¨ Musée du Louvre
subsequent 30 minutes from €1. France’s greatest repository of art,
sculpture and artefacts, the Louvre is
a must-visit – but don’t expect to see
Parking it all in a day (www.louvre.fr).
Meters don’t take coins; use a chip-enabled
credit card. Municipal car parks cost €2 to ¨ Basilique du Sacré-Coeur
€3.50 per hour; €20 to €25 per 24 hours. Climb inside the cupola of this
Montmartre landmark for one of the
Where to Eat best cross-city vistas (www.sacre-
coeur-montmartre.com).
Le Marais is one of the best areas for
eating out, with its small restaurants and ¨ Musée d’Orsay
trendy bistros. Don’t miss Paris’ street Paris’ second-most-essential
SENG CHYE TEO / GETTY IMAGES ©
markets: Marché Bastille, rue Montorgueil museum, with a fabulous collection
and rue Mouffetard are full of atmosphere. encompassing originals by Cézanne,
Degas, Monet, Van Gogh and more
Where to Stay (www.musee-orsay.fr).
Base yourself in Montmartre for its Parisian ¨ Cathédrale de Notre-Dame
charm, if you don’t mind crowds. Le Marais Peer over Paris from the north tower
and Bastille provide style on a budget, of this Gothic landmark, surrounded
while St-Germain is good for a splurge. by gargoyles and flying buttresses
(www.cathedraledeparis.com).
Useful Websites ¨ Les Catacombes
Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com/paris) Explore more than 2km of tunnels
beneath the streets of Montparnasse,
Paris Info (www.parisinfo.com) Tourist-authority.
lined with the bones and skulls
Secrets of Paris (www.secretsofparis.com) of millions of Parisians (www.
Loads of resources and reviews. catacombes.paris.fr).
Paris by Mouth (http://parisbymouth.com)
Foodie heaven. ¨ Cimetière Père-Lachaise
Sortiraparis (www.sortiraparis.com) What’s on Oscar Wilde, Édith Piaf, Marcel Proust
around town. and Jim Morrison are just a few of the
famous names buried in this wildly
overgrown cemetery (www.pere-
Trips Through Paris 1 lachaise.com).
¨ Canal St-Martin
Join the locals for a walk or bike ride
For more, check out our along the towpaths of this 4.5km
city and country guides. canal, once derelict but now reborn
www.lonelyplanet.com as a haven from the city hustle.
25

CITY
CITY
GUIDE L. TOSHIO KISHIYAMA / GETTY IMAGES ©
GUIDE















Lyon Place des Jacobins
LYON
For centuries, Lyon has served as a crossroads between France’s south and north,
as well as a gateway to the nearby Alps. A commercial and industrial powerhouse for
over 500 years, it’s now a cosmopolitan and sophisticated city, with some outstanding
museums and a notoriously lively nightlife.
a small, cosy bistro that
Getting Around cooks up regional cuisine Useful Websites
Cars aren’t much use for such as boudin blanc (veal City of Lyon (www.lyon.fr)
getting around Lyon itself. sausage) and quenelles de My Little Lyon (www.mylittle.
The same €1.80 tickets are brochet (pike dumplings fr/mylittlelyon)
valid on all the city’s public in a creamy crayfish
transport, including buses, sauce). Afterwards, browse Petit Paume (www.
trams, the four-line metro the stalls of the city’s petitpaume.com)
and the two funiculars wonderful covered market,
linking Vieux Lyon to Les Halles de Lyon.
Fourvière and St-Just. Day Trips Through Lyon
passes cost €5.50. 1k
Where to Stay
Vieux Lyon and Presqu’Île
Parking both have a fantastic
As always, parking is range of hotels and
expensive, so pick a hotel guesthouses that combine
with a private car park old Lyonnaise architecture
if you’re planning on with modern style. Croix
arriving with wheels. Rousse is the handiest
area for visiting the
Roman remains around
Where to Eat Fourvière.
The classic place to eat
in Lyon is a bouchon
(literally, ‘bottle stopper’),


26

ALLAN BAXTER / GETTY IMAGES ©










Lille Place du Général de Gaulle
LILLE
Lille may be France’s most underrated major city. This once-tired industrial metropolis
has transformed itself into a stylish, self-confident city with a strong Flemish accent.
Three art museums, lots of stylish shops and a lovely old town make it well worthy of
investigation.
Sundays, September to many are short on charm.
Getting Around March), 1.2km northwest On the plus side, rates
Driving into Lille is of the centre. It costs €4 drop at weekends.
incredibly confusing, a day and includes return
even with a good map; travel for five people to
just suspend your sense central Lille on bus 12. Useful Websites
of direction and blindly Lille Tourisme (www.
follow the ‘Centre Ville’ lilletourism.com)
signs. Lille’s buses and Where to Eat
two speedy metro lines Lille’s proximity to
run until about 12.30am. Belgium has influenced its Trips Through Lille
Tickets cost €1.40; a Pass’ cuisine. Cosy estaminets 24
Journée (all-day pass) (Flemish eateries) serve
costs €4.10. Lillois specialities such as
carbonade (braised beef
stewed with beer, spiced
Parking bread and brown sugar)
If you’re driving, the and potjevleesch (jellied
best idea is to leave your chicken, pork, veal and
vehicle at the park-and- rabbit).
ride at Champ de Mars
(www.transpole.fr; av Cuvier;
per 3hr/day €2/4; h24hr, Where to Stay
staffed 7am-8pm Mon-Sat) Most hotels are within
on bd de la Liberté (open striking distance of the
from 10am to 6pm or city centre, but Lille’s
7pm, closed Saturdays and business focus means


27

CITY
GUIDE





































NICE
The classic metropolis of the French Riviera, Nice has something to suit all moods:
exceptional museums, atmospheric street markets, glittering Mediterranean beaches
and a rabbit-warren old town, all bathed in radiant year-round sunshine. With its blend
of city grit and old-world opulence, it deserves as much time as you can spare.

Getting Around Parking
The complicated one-way system and Nearly all parking in Nice is payant
heavy traffic can make driving in Nice (chargeable) – assuming you manage
stressful, especially in the heat of to find a space. Car parks are usually
summer. Walking is the easiest way to get cheapest (around €2 to €3 per hour, or
around. There’s a handy tram line from €17 to €30 per day). All parking meters
the train station all the way to Vieux Nice take coins; car-park pay stations also
and place Garibaldi; tickets cost €1.50 accept credit cards.
and are valid on buses.



28

GUILLAUME CHANSON / GETTY IMAGES ©
TOP EXPERIENCES

¨ Strolling the Promenade des
Anglais
Join sun worshippers, inline skaters
and dog walkers on this magnificent
boulevard, which runs right along
Nice’s shimmering seafront.
¨ Musée Matisse
Just 2km north of the centre, this
excellent art museum documents
the life and work of Henri Matisse in
painstaking detail. You’ll need good
French to get the most out of your
visit (www.musee-matisse-nice.org).

¨ Shopping on Cours Saleya
This massive market captures the
essence of Niçois life. A chaotic
assortment of stalls sells everything
from fresh-cut flowers to fresh fish.

¨ Parc du Château
Pack a picnic and head to this hilltop
park for a panorama across Nice’s
red-tiled rooftops.



Nice Quai de Rauba Capeu

Where to Eat Useful Websites
Head for the alleyways of Vieux Nice Nice Tourisme (http://en.nicetourisme.com)
(Old Nice) for the most authentic
neighbourhood restaurants. Don’t miss
the local specialities of socca (chickpea- Trips Through Nice n}
flour pancake), petits farcis (stuffed
vegetables) and pissaladière (onion tart
topped with black olives and anchovies).


Where to Stay
Old town equals atmosphere, but for the
best views and classiest rooms you’ll want
to base yourself near the seafront –
the Promenade des Anglais has several
landmark hotels. The city’s cheapest hotels
are clustered around the train station.


29

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Normandy &
FRANCE Brittany

In these charming and varied
regions, history buffs head for
BY REGION D-Day beaches; culture-vultures
follow the steps of Monet in
Giverny and marvel at Rouen’s
medieval old city; and food-lovers
sample cheese, cider, seafood and
crepes. For dramatic landscapes,
the Breton coast beckons.
Drive the coast on Trip 9






From rugged mountain roads to
quiet country lanes, France is a
driver’s dream. Here’s your guide
to what each region has to offer,
along with suggestions for our
top road trips.




Loire Valley &
Central France
The Loire is rightly famous for its
châteaux, but there’s more here
than over-the-top architecture.
A world of wine awaits in
Burgundy; the region’s medieval
heritage is a must for history
buffs; and volcanic vistas unfold
in the Auvergne. Atlantic Coast
Taste Grand Cru wine on France’s wonderfully varied
Trip f west coast stretches from the
vineyards of Bordeaux down to
the busy beach towns of Arcachon
and Biarritz. The southwest is
a stronghold of French Basque
culture, while the Dordogne and
the Lot Valley offer a dreamy
vision of the French countryside.
30 Hunt for truffles on Trip y

Paris &
Northeastern France
No French trip would be Alps, Jura & Rhône
complete without Paris, one Valley
of the world’s most vital cities.
Beyond the capital, explore artistic Mountains spiral skywards and
the roads get ever higher as you
connections in Nancy, home of art
nouveau, tour Alsatian vineyards, drive through the Alps and the
Jura. Brave the slopes and hike
visit prestigious Champagne the trails, then head into the
cellars and delve into a war-
ravaged past in Flanders. Rhône Valley for hearty food and
postcard-pretty villages.
Quaff Champagne on Trip 5. Enjoy sky-high views on Trip h




Provence &
Southeast France
Sparkling beaches, glitzy towns,
hilltop hamlets, lavender fields:
Provence is the stuff of dreams.
Cruise the corniches, head inland
for Roman ruins and Provençal
markets, and if you’re feeling
adventurous, the wild island of
Corsica is only a boat ride away.
Follow the Riviera on Trip n






Pyrenees &
Southwest France

Straddling the Franco–Spanish
border, the valleys and passes of
the Pyrenees make for fantastic
driving, but you’ll need to keep
your eyes on the road. Switch
to the slow lane in laid-back
Languedoc, with its Cathar castles
and pilgrims’ churches.
Head to the hills on Trip s




31

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd


FRANCE JON ARNOLD / GETTY IMAGES ©



























































n

KAVRAM / SHUTTERSTOCK ©


























h

What is a Classic Trip?
All the trips in this book show you the best of France, but we’ve chosen eight as our all-
time favourites. These are our Classic Trips – the ones that lead you to the best of the
iconic sights, the top activities and the unique French experiences.



1 Essential 35 h Alpine
Adventure ..............6 Days 197
France ..................21 Days
5 Champagne 75 n Riviera
Crossing .................4 Days 255
Taster ....................3 Days
8 D-Day’s v The
Pyrenees ...............7 Days 335
Beaches .................3 Days 107
b Châteaux } Atlantic
to Med ..................10 Days 401
of the Loire ............5 Days 139
Above: Snow-covered Alps, Chamonix
Left: Promenade des Anglais, Nice 33

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
a
b
c
d
144
344
544
744
945
c45



































Location Caption details to go here

DAVIDEVISON / GETTY IMAGES ©
Essential France 1








City to city, coast to coast, this grand tour visits some of France’s
most unmissable sights. There’s some epic driving involved, but
this is one trip you won’t forget in a hurry.

TRIP HIGHLIGHTS
21 DAYS
335 km 3060KM / 1902
Bayeux MILES
Check out the world's
# Caen lL longest comic strip
# # #
# GREAT FOR…
4
JGB
# _ PARIS
2100 km BEST TIME TO GO
Chamonix April to June
Savour sky-high views
# Poitiers of Mont Blanc ESSENTIAL
I
# PHOTO
# # #
10
Overlooking the
# ‚
Clermont- Parisian panorama
# # #
# Ferrand from the Basilique du
8
m K Sacré-Coeur.
13
# # # # BEST FOR
K FAMILIES
# Cannes
1445 km Gorges du Verdon Brave the space-age
Experience France's
Sarlat-la-Canéda answer to the rides and roller-coaster
Explore the medieval Grand Canyon thrills of Futuroscope.
heart of this gorgeous
Dordogne town 3060 km
Gor 35
Location Caption details to go hereges du Verdon Ravine through Haute-Provence

Bayeux #
]
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1 Essential France \ # ] # \ \ # / · / · ]
^
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\ #
This is the big one – an epic trek that travels all the : # Nantes
^
A83
way from the chilly waters of the English Channel : : / ·
to the gleaming blue Mediterranean. Along the way, Parc Naturel # \
you’ll stop off at some of France’s most iconic sights: Interrégional du
Marais Poitevin
the château of Versailles, the abbey of Mont St- La Rochelle \ # / ·
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Michel, the summit of Mont Blanc and the beaches of A T L A N T I C # Saintes
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# #\
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hard to beat Montmartre once the village’s main
square, now packed with
– the neighbourhood of :
cobbled lanes and cafe- buskers and portrait art- \ # :
^
#
lined squares beloved by ists. You can get a sense of once occupied by Renoir
writers and painters since how the area would once and Utrillo.
have looked at the Musée
the 19th century. This Nearby, Montmartre’s
was once a notoriously de Montmartre (%01 49 25 finest view unfolds from
ramshackle part of Paris, 89 39; www.museede the dome of the Basilique
full of bordellos, brothels, montmartre.fr; 12 rue Cortot, du Sacré-Coeur (%01 53
dance halls and bars, 18e; adult/child €9.50/5.50; 41 89 00; www.sacre-coeur-
as well as the city’s first h10am-6pm; mLamarck- montmartre.com; place du
Caulaincourt), which details
can-can clubs. Though Parvis du Sacré-Cœur; dome
its hedonistic heyday the area’s bohemian past. adult/child €6/4, cash only;
has long since passed, It’s inside Montmartre’s h6am-10.30pm, dome
Montmartre still retains oldest building, a 17th- 8.30am-8pm May-Sep, to 5pm
century manor house
36

]
]
]
200 km
Forêt
# Honfleur \ # # \ # # d'Argonne # e 0 0 # 100 miles
]
/ · /· # Reims # Saarbrücken
L
l
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^
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Tours ] / · # Vézelay # Dijon # Besançon _
\
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]
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\
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23
Parc Naturel #Orange les-Bains 0 ¸ FG
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\ #
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_
Oct-Apr; mAnvers). On a YOUR
clear day, you can see for TRIP
up to 30km. Alpine Riviera Crossing
54 p44 h Adventure n Combine this
The Drive » Drive From the Chamonix features on journey with our jaunt
centre of Paris, follow the A13 our Alps trip, so it’s down the French Riviera,
west from Porte d’Auteuil and easy to launch a cross- which begins in Cannes.
take the exit marked ‘Versailles mountain adventure
Château’. Versailles is 28km from there.
southwest of the city.
37

where they were inglori- The Drive » The N10 runs
ously guillotined. southwest from Versailles
The architecture is through pleasant countryside
truly eye-popping. High- and forest to Rambouillet. You’ll
lights include the Grands join the D906 to Chartres. All
Appartements du Roi et told, it’s a journey of 76km.
de la Reine (State Apart-
2 Versailles ments) and the famous
Louis XIV transformed Galerie des Glaces 3 Chartres
his father’s hunting (Hall of Mirrors), a You’ll know you’re near-
lodge into the Château 75m-long ballroom filled ing Chartres long before
de Versailles (%01 30 83 with chandeliers and you reach it thanks to
78 00; www.chateauversailles. floor-to-ceiling mirrors. the twin spires of the
fr; place d’Armes; adult/child Outside, the vast park Cathédrale Notre Dame
passport ticket incl estate-wide incorporates terraces, (www.cathedrale-chartres.
access €18/free, with musical flower beds, paths and org; place de la Cathédrale;
events €25/free, palace €15/ fountains, as well as the h8.30am-7.30pm daily year-
free; h9am-6.30pm Tue-Sun Grand and Petit Canals. round, also to 10pm Tue, Fri &
Apr-Oct, to 5.30pm Tue-Sun Northwest of the main Sun Jun-Aug), considered
Nov-Mar; mRER Versailles- palace is the Domaine to be one of the most
Château–Rive Gauche) in the de Marie-Antoinette important structures in
mid-17th century, and it (Marie Antoinette’s Estate; www. Christendom.
remains France’s most chateauversailles.fr; Château The present cathedral
majestic palace. The de Versailles; adult/child €10/ was built during the late
FRANCE’S BEST TRIPS 1 ESSENTIAL FRANCE
royal court was based free, with passport ticket free; 12th century after the
here from 1682 until hnoon-6.30pm Tue-Sun original was destroyed
1789, when revolutionar- Apr-Oct, to 5.30pm Tue-Sat by fire. It’s survived
ies massacred the palace Nov-Mar), where the royal wars and revolutions
guard and dragged family would have taken remarkably intact, and
Louis XVI and Marie refuge from the intrigue the brilliant-blue stained-
Antoinette back to Paris, and etiquette of court life. glass windows have even
inspired their own shade
of paint (Chartres blue).
The cathedral also hous-
es the Sainte Voile (Holy
VISITING VERSAILLES Veil), supposedly worn
by the Virgin Mary while
Versailles is one of the country’s most popular giving birth to Jesus.
destinations, so planning ahead will make your visit The best views are
more enjoyable. Avoid the busiest days of Tuesday from the 112m-high
and Sunday, and remember that the château is Clocher Neuf (New Bell
closed on Monday. Save time by pre-purchasing Tower; Cathédrale Notre
tickets on the château’s website, or arrive early if Dame; adult/child €7.50/free;
you’re buying at the door – by noon queues spiral h9.30am-12.30pm & 2-6pm
out of control. Mon-Sat, 2-6pm Sun May-Aug,
You can also access off-limits areas (such as
the Private Apartments of Louis XV and Louis XVI, 9.30am-12.30pm & 2-5pm Mon-
Sat, 2-5pm Sun Sep-Apr).
the Opera House and the Royal Chapel) by taking
a 90-minute guided tour (%01 30 83 77 88; www. 54 p44
chateauversailles.fr; tours €7, plus palace entry; hEnglish-
language tours 9.30pm Tue-Sun). The Drive » Follow the D939
northwest for 58km to Verneuil-
38

sur-Avre, then take the D926 based in Genêts. Don’t be
west for 78km to Argentan – 5 Mont St-Michel tempted to do it on your
both great roads through typical own – the bay’s tides are
Norman countryside. Just west You’ve already seen it on notoriously treacherous.
of Argentan, the D158/N158 a million postcards, but
heads north to Caen, then turns nothing prepares you for 4 p44
northwest on the N13 to Bayeux, the real Mont St-Michel
94km further. (%02 33 89 80 00; www. The Drive » Take the A84, N12
monuments-nationaux.fr; and A81 for 190km to Le Mans
and the A28 for 102km to Tours,
TRIP HIGHLIGHT adult/child incl guided tour €9/ where you can follow a tour
4 Bayeux free; h9am-7pm, last entry through the Loire Valley if you
wish. Chambord is about 75km
1hr before closing). It’s one
The Tapisserie de Bayeux of France’s architectural from Tours via the D952.
(%02 31 51 25 50; www.bayeux marvels, an 11th-century
museum.com; rue de Nesmond; island abbey marooned
adult/child incl audio guide in the middle of a vast 6 Chambord
€9/4; h9am-6.30pm Mar-Oct, golden bay. If you only have time to
to 7pm May-Aug, 9.30am- When you arrive, you’ll visit one château in the FRANCE’S BEST TRIPS 1 ESSENTIAL FRANCE
12.30pm & 2-6pm Nov–Feb) be steered into one of the Loire, you might as well
is without doubt the Mont’s huge car parks. make it the grandest –
world’s most celebrated You then walk along and Chambord (%info 02
(and ambitious) piece of the causeway (or catch 54 50 40 00, tour & show reser-
embroidery. Over 58 pan- a free shuttle bus) to vations 02 54 50 50 40; www.
els, the tapestry recounts the island itself. Guided chambord.org; adult/child
the invasion of England tours are included, or you €11/9, parking near/distant
in 1066 by William I, or can explore solo with an €6/4; h9am-5pm or 6pm;
William the Conqueror, audioguide. c) is the most lavish of
as he’s now known. The Église Abba- them all. It’s a showpiece
Commissioned in 1077 tiale (Abbey Church) of Renaissance architec-
by Bishop Odo of Bayeux, is reached via a steep ture, from the double-
William’s half-brother, the climb along the Grande helix staircase up to the
tapestry retells the battle Rue. Around the church, turret-covered rooftop.
in fascinating detail: look the cluster of buildings With over 440 rooms, the
for Norman horses getting known as La Merveille sheer scale of the place
stuck in the quicksands (The Marvel) includes the is mindboggling – and
around Mont St-Michel, cloister, refectory, guest in the Loire, that’s really
and the famous appear- hall, ambulatory and saying something.
ance of Halley’s Comet various chapels.
in scene 32. The final For a different perspec- The Drive » It’s 425km to
showdown at the Battle of tive, take a guided walk Bordeaux via Blois and the A10
Hastings is particularly across the sands with motorway. You could consider
graphic, complete with Découverte de la Baie du breaking the journey with stop-
offs at Futuroscope and Poitiers,
severed limbs, decapitated Mont-Saint-Michel (%02 roughly halfway between the two.
heads, and the English 33 70 83 49; www.decou
King Harold getting an vertebaie.com; 1 rue Montoise,
arrow in the eye. Genêts; adult/child from €8/5) 7 Bordeaux
54 p115 and Chemins de la Baie When Unesco decided
(%02 33 89 80 88; www. to protect Bordeaux’s
The Drive » Mont St-Michel is cheminsdelabaie.com; 34 rue medieval architecture in
125km southwest of Bayeux; the de l’Ortillon, Genêts; adult/
fastest route is along the D6 and child from €7.30/5), both 2007, it simply listed half
then the A84 motorway. the city in one fell swoop.

39

WHY THIS IS A PETER RICHARDSON / ROBERTHARDING / GETTY IMAGES ©
CLASSIC TRIP
OLIVER BERRY,
WRITER
It’s an epic in every sense: in scale,
DOUG PEARSON / GETTY IMAGES ©
views, time and geography. This
once-in-a-lifetime journey covers
France from every possible angle:
top to bottom, east to west, city and
village, old-fashioned and modern,
coast and countryside. It links
together many of the country’s truly
unmissable highlights, and by the
end you’ll genuinely be able to say
you’ve seen the heart and soul of
France.

Top: Produce market, Aix-en-Provence
Left: Sausages for sale, Sarlat-la-Canéda
Right: Cathédrale St-André, Bordeaux

Covering 18 sq km, this is
the world’s largest urban
World Heritage Site, with
grand buildings and
architectural treasures
galore. Stretch your legs
on a walking tour (p410).
Top of the heap is the
MARCOCIANNAREL / SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Cathédrale St-André,
known for its stone
carvings and generously
gargoyled belfry, the Tour
Pey-Berland (place Jean
Moulin; adult/child €5.50/
free; h10am-1.15pm & 2-6pm
Jun-Sep, 10am-12.30pm &
2-5.30pm Oct-May). But the
whole old city rewards FRANCE’S BEST TRIPS 1 ESSENTIAL FRANCE
wandering, especially
around the Jardin Public
(cours de Verdun), the pretty
squares of esplanade
des Quinconces and
place Gambetta, and the
city’s 4km-long river-
front esplanade, with its
playgrounds, paths and
paddling pools.
54 p44, p366
The Drive » Sarlat-la-Canéda
is a drive of 194km via the A89
motorway, or you can take a
longer but more enjoyable route
via the D936.

TRIP HIGHLIGHT
8 Sarlat-la-Canéda
If you’re looking for
France’s heart and soul,
you’ll find it among the
forests and fields of the
Dordogne. It’s the stuff of
French fantasies: river-
bank châteaux, medieval
villages, wooden-hulled
gabarres (flat-bottomed
barges) and market stalls
groaning with foie gras,
truffles, walnuts and

41

The Drive » The drive east the Lumière Brothers
to Lyon is a long one, covering (Auguste and Louis)
well over 400km and travelling shot the first reels of
across the spine of the Massif the world’s first motion
Central. A good route is to follow picture, La Sortie des
the A89 all the way to exit 6, Usines Lumières, on 19
wines. The medieval town then turn off onto the N89/D89 March 1895.
of Sarlat-la-Canéda makes to Lyon. This route should cover
the perfect base, with a between 420km and 430km. 54 p45, p229
beautiful medieval centre The Drive » Take the A42
and lots of lively markets. 9 Lyon towards Lake Geneva, then the
It’s also ideally placed A40 towards St-Gervais-les-
for exploring the Vézère Fired up by French food? Bains. The motorway becomes
Valley, about 20km to Then you’ll love Lyon, the N205 as it nears Chamonix.
the northwest, home with its bouchons (small It’s a drive of at least 225km.
to France’s finest cave bistros), bustling markets
paintings. Most famous and fascinating food TRIP HIGHLIGHT
of all are the ones at the culture. Start in Vieux
Grotte de Lascaux (%05 Lyon and the picturesque a Chamonix
53 51 95 03; www.semitour. quarter of Presqu’île, Snuggling among snow-
com; Montignac; adult/child then catch the funicular clad mountains – includ-
€9.90/6.40, combined ticket to the top of Fourvière to ing Europe’s highest
with Le Thot €13.50/9.40; explore the city’s Roman summit, Mont Blanc –
hguided tours 9am-7pm Jul ruins and enjoy cross- adrenaline-fuelled Cha-
& Aug, 9.30am-6pm Apr-Jun, town views. monix is an ideal spring-
FRANCE’S BEST TRIPS 1 ESSENTIAL FRANCE
Sep & Oct, 10am-12.30pm & Film buffs will also board for the French Alps.
2-5pm Nov-Mar, closed Jan), want to make time for the In winter, it’s a mecca for
although to prevent dam- Musée Lumière (%04 78 skiers and snowboarders,
age to the paintings, you 78 18 95; www.institut-lumiere. and in summer, once the
now visit a replica of the org; 25 rue du Premier Film, snows thaw, the high-level
cave’s main sections in a 8e; adult/child €6.50/5.50; trails become a trekkers’
nearby grotto. h10am-6.30pm Tue-Sun; paradise.
mMonplaisir-Lumière), where There are two really
essential Chamonix expe-
riences. First, catch the
FUTUROSCOPE dizzying cable car to the
top of the Aiguille du Midi
Halfway between Chambord and Bordeaux on the to snap a shot of Mont
A10, 10km north of Poitiers, Futuroscope (%05 49 49 Blanc.
11 12; www.futuroscope.com; av René Monory, Chasseneuil-du- Then take the combi-
Poitou; adult/child €43/35; h10am-11.15pm Jul, 9am-11.15pm nation mountain train
Aug, shorter hours rest of year, closed Jan–mid-Feb) is one of and cable car from the
France’s top theme parks. It’s a futuristic experience Gare du Montenvers
that takes you whizzing through space, diving into (%04 50 53 22 75; www.
the ocean depths, racing around city streets and on compagniedumontblanc.fr;
a close encounter with creatures of the future. Note 35 place de la Mer de Glace;
that many rides have a minimum height of 120cm. adult/child return €31/26.40;
You’ll need at least five hours to check out the h10am-4.30pm) to the
major attractions, or two days to see everything. The Mer de Glace (Sea of Ice),
park is in the suburb of Jaunay-Clan; take exit 28 off France’s largest glacier.
the A10. Wrap up warmly if you


42

want to visit the glacier’s
sculptures and ice caves.
54 p205 PETER BURNETT / GETTY IMAGES ©
The Drive » The drive to the
Riviera is full of scenic thrills.
An attractive route is via the
D1212 to Albertville, and then
via the A43, which travels over
the Italian border and through
the Tunnel de Fréjus. From here,
the N94 runs through Briançon,
and a combination of the A51,
N85 and D6085 carries you
south to Nice. You’ll cover at
least 430km.

b French Riviera
If there’s one coast road French Riviera The winding coastline
in France you simply
have to drive, it’s the The Drive » From St-Tropez,
take the fast A8 for about
French Riviera, with 230km west to Aix-en-Provence. TRIP HIGHLIGHT
its rocky cliffs, maquis- d Gorges du Verdon
scented air and dazzling Complete your cross-
Med views. Sun-seekers c Aix-en-Provence
have been flocking here Sleepy Provence sums France adventure with
an unforgettable expedi-
since the 19th century, up the essence of la
and its scenery still never douce vie (the gentle tion to the Gorges du
Verdon – sometimes
fails to seduce. life). Cloaked in lavender known as the Grand
Lively Nice and and spotted with hilltop
cinematic Cannes make villages, it’s a region Canyon of Europe. This
deep ravine slashes 25km
natural starts, but for the that sums up everything
Riviera’s loveliest scenery, that’s good about France. through the plateaus
of Haute-Provence; in
you’ll want to drive down
Cruising the back
the gorgeous Corniche roads and browsing the places, its walls rise to a
de l’Estérel to St-Tropez, markets are the best dizzying 700m, twice the
height of the Eiffel Tower
still a watchword for ways to get acquainted.
seaside glamour. Summer Carpentras and Vaison- (321m).
The two main
can be hellish, but come la-Romaine are particu- jumping-off points are
in spring or autumn and larly detour-worthy, while the villages of Moustiers
you’ll have its winding artistic Aix-en-Provence Ste-Marie, in the west,
lanes and fragrant hills encapsulates the classic
practically to yourself. Provençal vibe, with and Castellane, in the
east. Drivers and bikers
For maximum views, its pastel buildings and can take in the canyon
stick to the coast roads: Cézanne connections.
the D6098 to Antibes and panorama from two
vertigo-inducing cliffside
Cannes, the D559 around 54 p45
the Corniche de l’Estérel, roads, but the base of the
gorge is only accessible
and the D98A to St- The Drive » The gorges are on foot or by raft.
230km northeast of Aix-en-
Tropez. It’s about 120km Provence, via the A51 and D952.
via this route.
43

Eating & Sleeping / GETTY IMAGES ©


4 Le Grand Monarque Hotel €€€
Paris 1 (%02 37 18 15 15; www.bw-grand-monarque.
com; 22 place des Épars; d €145-215, f €275;
5 Holybelly International € aiW) With its teal-blue shutters gracing
(www.holybel.ly; 19 rue Lucien Sampaix, 10e; its 1779 façade, lovely stained-glass ceiling,
breakfast €5-11.50, lunch mains €13.50-16.50; and treasure trove of period furnishings, old
h9am-6pm Thu, Fri, Mon, from 10am Sat & B&W photos and knick-knacks, the refurbished
Sun; mJacques Bonsergent) This outstanding Grand Monarque (with air-con in some rooms)
barista-run coffee shop and kitchen is always is a historical gem and very central. A host of
rammed with a buoyant crowd, who never tire of hydrotherapy treatments are available at its
Holybelly’s exceptional service, Belleville-roasted spa. Its elegant restaurant, Georges (%02 37
coffee and cuisine. Sarah’s breakfast pancakes 18 15 15; www.bw-grand-monarque.com; 22 place
served with egg, bacon, homemade bourbon des Épars; 4-course menu from €75, 8-course
butter and maple syrup are legendary, while her tasting menu €95, mains €38-41; hnoon-2pm
lunch menu features everything from traditional & 7.30-10pm Tue-Sat), has a Michelin star. Staff
braised veal shank to squid à la plancha. are charming.
FRANCE’S BEST TRIPS 1 ESSENTIAL FRANCE
4 Hôtel Amour Boutique Hotel €€
(%01 48 78 31 80; www.hotelamourparis.fr; 8 Mont St-Michel 5
rue Navarin, 9e; d €170-230; W; mSt-Georges,
Pigalle) Craving romance in Paris? The inimitable 4 Vent des Grèves B&B €
black-clad Amour (‘Love’) features original (%Estelle 02 33 48 28 89; www.ventdesgreves.
design and nude artwork in each of the rooms, com; 7-9 chemin des Dits, Ardevon; s/d/tr/q incl
some more explicit than others. The icing on the breakfast €42/52/62/72) This friendly, family-
cake is the hip ground-floor bistro with summer run B&B has five modern rooms, furnished
patio garden, a tasty spot for breakfast, lunch or simply, with magical views of the Mont.
dinner and everything in between. Rooms don’t Outstanding value. Situated an easily walkable
have a TV, but who cares when you’re in love? 1km east of the shuttle stop in La Caserne.

Chartres 3 Bordeaux 7
5 Le Tripot Bistro €€ 5 Le Petit Commerce Seafood €€
(%02 37 36 60 11; www.letripot.wixsite.com/ (05 56 79 76 58; 22 rue Parlement St-Pierre;
chartres; 11 place Jean Moulin; 2-/3-course 2-course lunch menu €14, mains €15-25;
lunch menus €15/18, 3-course dinner menus hnoon-midnight) This iconic bistro, with dining
€29.50-45, mains €13.50-22; hnoon-1.45pm rooms both sides of a narrow pedestrian street
& 7.30-9.15pm Tue & Thu-Sat, noon-1.45pm Sun) and former Michelin-starred chef Stéphane
Tucked off the tourist trail and easy to miss, even Carrade in the kitchen, is the star turn of the
if you do chance down its narrow street, this trendy St-Pierre quarter. It’s best known for
atmospheric space with low beamed ceilings is its excellent seafood menu that embraces
a treat for authentic and adventurous French everything from Arcachon sole and oysters to
fare like saddle of rabbit stuffed with snails, eels, lobsters and chipirons (baby squid) fresh
and grilled turbot in truffled hollandaise sauce. from St-Jean de Luz.
Locals are onto it, so booking ahead is advised.

44

4 Mama Shelter Design Hotel €€ 17th-century houses wrapped around a traboule
(%05 57 30 45 45; www.mamashelter.com/ (secret passage) with preserved features such
en/bordeaux; 19 rue Poquelin Molière; d/tr as Italianate loggias make this an exquisite
from €79/129) With personalised iMacs, video place to stay. Individually decorated rooms woo
booths and free movies in every room, Mama with designer bathroom fittings and bountiful
Shelter leads the way in cutting-edge sleep. antiques, while decadent facilities include a spa,
Crisp white rooms come in small, medium or a Michelin-starred restaurant (menus €95 to
large, with family-friendly XL doubles touting a €115), a swish cafe and a cross-vaulted bar.
sofa bed. The ground-floor restaurant (mains
€13 to €29) sports the same signature rubber
rings strung above the bar as other Philippe Aix-en-Provence c
Starck–designed hotels, and weekends usher 5 Le Petit Verdot French €€
concerts, gigs and other cultural happenings
onto the small stage. (%04 42 27 30 12; www.lepetitverdot.fr; 7 rue
d’Entrecasteaux; mains €19-25; h7pm-midnight
Mon-Sat) Great Provençal food and great
Lyon 9 Provençal wines – really, what more do you want
from a meal in this part of France? It’s all about
5 Le Poêlon d’Or Bouchon €€ hearty, honest dining here, with table tops made FRANCE’S BEST TRIPS 1 ESSENTIAL FRANCE
(%04 78 37 65 60; www.lepoelondor-restaurant. out of old wine crates, and a lively chef-patron
fr; 29 rue des Remparts d’Ainay, 2e; lunch who runs the place with huge enthusiasm.
menus €17-20, menus €27-32; hnoon-2pm & Expect slow-braised meats, seasonal veg, sinful
7.30-10pm Mon-Fri; mAmpère-Victor Hugo) This desserts and some super wines to go with.
upmarket bouchon, around the corner from the 4 Villa Gallici Historic Hotel €€€
Musée des Tissus, is well known among local (%04 42 23 29 23; www.villagallici.com; 18 av de
foodies who recommend its superb andouillette la Violette; r from €350; paWs) Baroque
(chitterlings) and pike dumplings. Save room for and beautiful, this fabulous villa was built as
the delicious chocolate mousse or the vanilla a private residence in the 18th century, and
crème brûlée. Yummy. Well worth the detour.
it still feels marvellously opulent. Rooms are
4 Cour des Loges Hotel €€€ more like museum pieces, stuffed with gilded
(%04 72 77 44 44; www.courdesloges.com; 2-8 mirrors, toile-de-jouy wallpaper and filigreed
rue du Bœuf, 5e; d €200-350, ste €250-600; furniture. There’s a lovely lavender-filled garden
aiWs; mVieux Lyon) Four 14th- to for breakfast, plus a super pool for lazy evening
swims. It even has its own wine cellar.

CaptionCaptionCaptionCaption



















45



Paris &



Northeastern


France
















FROM THE BOULEVARDS OF PARIS TO
THE LOFTY CHALK CLIFFS OF THE CÔTE
D’OPALE, northeastern France is primed
with possibilities – whether that means
touring Champagne’s vineyards, sampling
Alsatian cuisine, admiring art in Metz or simply
moseying around Strasbourg’s attractive city
centre. And with its abundance of coast and
countryside, it’s a pleasure to drive, too.
It’s a region whose long (and turbulent) history
is plain to see. Two thousand years of royalty,
renaissance and revolution have left their mark
on the streets of Paris, while the scars of war
can still be traced on the fields of Flanders.
Elsewhere, cathedrals and châteaux hint at the
splendour of a bygone age, and experimental
art museums point to an equally flashy future.


Côte d’Opale Cliff-side beach at Cap Blanc-Nez
SAMERE FAHIM PHOTOGRAPHY / GETTY IMAGES ©

444
4
4
4
4
444
Paris & # \ Dover Calais BELGIUM
ENGLAND
Northeastern Wissant # \ \ # Parc Naturel BRUSSELS
_
#
# Ambleteuse

\
France #Boulogne- Régional des Caps #

\
et Marais d'Opale
sur-Mer
]
Le Touquet- Fromelles # \ Lille
# \ Paris-Plage Lens Mons
#
]
F G # \ # Douai Charleroi
#
]
3
]
Arras
# \
St-Valery-sur-
4
English # \ F G F G
Channel (La Somme 2
Manche) Thiepval # \
Dieppe Péronne
# Amiens ]
]
#
# \
# St-Quentin
\
Étretat
A26
# \ # \ / ·
/ · Neufchâtel-
A29
en-Bray
2
Le Havre ] Rouen F G
#
Seine ^ de Lyons
Forêt
#
Caen # Reims
]
#
^
# Louviers ] Verzenay # \
0 ¸ Evreux # # Vernon / · Épernay \ # F G
]
5
A4
N158
^
#
\
# Falaise Le Mesnil- \ # Châlons-
]
_
# PARIS sur-Oger sur-Marne
Parc Naturel 0 ¸
Régional D939
Normandie-Maine
Chartres
#
^
Alençon Forêt de \ # Troyes
Bellême
#
]
/ ·
A11
# e 0 0 50 miles 100 km
A Toast to Art 7 Days Champagne Taster 3 Days
2 Visit art galleries in Lens and Metz, 5 Taste your way around the cellars
then get lost in old Strasbourg. (p51) of Champagne on this fizz-fuelled
Northern Coast 2–4 Days trip. (p75)
3 Discover a sublime stretch of coast Alsace Accents 3 Days
along the English Channel. (p59) 6 Alsace’s rich cuisine and crisp wines
In Flanders Fields 3 Days combine on this eastern road trip.
4 The ghosts of the Great War still (p85)
linger on the battlefields of northern
France. (p67)

48