Lonely Planet France’s Best Trips (Travel Guide)

new generation makes houses her alleged re-
its mark. Make a beeline 2 Parc mains, along with those of
for the Saturday-morning Ornithologique du Marie-Salomé and Sainte
market (bd des Lices) and Marie-Jacobé, the Maries
pack a Camargue-worthy Pont de Gau of the town’s name.
picnic basket with local Itching to get in among Shunned by the Vatican,
goats’ cheese, olives all that green? Parc this paleo-Christian trio
and saucisson d’Arles Ornithologique de Pont has a powerful hold on the
(bull-meat sausage), or do de Gau (%04 90 97 82 62; Provençal psyche, with
likewise on Wednesday www.parcornithologique.com; a captivating back story
mornings on bd Émile D570, Pont du Gau; adult/ involving a boat journey
Combes. child €7.50/5; h9am-sunset from Palestine and a
With precious little Apr-Sep, from 10am Oct-Mar), cameo from Mary Mag-
parking within the old a 60-hectare bird park, dalene. Sara is the patron
town, unless you’re makes for a perfect pit saint of the gitans (Roma
staying at a hotel with stop. As you meander people), and each 24 May,
a garage (usually an along 7km of trails, thousands come to town
expensive extra), opt for flamingos pirouette to pay their respects and
the secure municipal overhead; the pink birds party hard. Don’t miss PROVENCE & SOUTHEAST FRANCE 27 THE CAMARGuE
facilities on bd des Lices can’t help play diva. the ex-voto paintings that
(€7 per day). Secreted away in the line the smoke-stained
marshes, though, is every walls, personal petitions
54 p244, p303, bird species that calls the to Sara that are touching
p409 Camargue wetlands home, and startlingly strange in
The Drive » Take the D35A including herons, storks, turns.
across the Grand Rhône at the egrets, teals and raptors. This town is the
Pont de Trinquetaille, then follow easiest spot to organise
signs to the D570 – you’ll soon The Drive » Continue south promenades à cheval
be in no doubt you’ve entered on the D570. The last stretch of (horseback riding); look
the Camargue. Continue south road into Stes-Maries-de-la-Mer
on the D570 until Pont de Gau, is dotted with stables – little- for Fédération Française
4km before you hit the coast, white-horse heaven, so get out d’Equitation (FFE) ac-
around 30 minutes all up. your camera. credited places, such as
the friendly Les Cabanes
TRIP HIGHLIGHT de Cacharel (%04 90 97
LINK 84 10, 06 11 57 74 75; www.
YOUR 3 Stes-Maries-de- cabanesdecacharel.com; rte
TRIP la-Mer de Cacharel, D85A; 1/2/3hr
Apart from a stretch of horse trek €20/30/40) on the
l Roman Provence fine sand beaches – some easterly D85A.
Slot in the 30km – the main attrac- 54 p303
Camargue trip’s loop tion at this rough-and-
south from either Nîmes tumble beach resort is the The Drive » The scenic D85A
or Arles. hauntingly beautiful Ég- rejoins the D570, then, after
lise des Stes-Maries (www. 10 minutes or so, turn right
m Lavender Route sanctuaire-des-saintesmaries. into the D37. Stop at Méjanes
for supplies or to visit the
From Arles, fr; place Jean XXIII; hrooftop legendary fish restaurant Le
take the 570N and 10am-noon & 2-5pm Mon-Sat, Mazet du Caccarés. The D36B
the D28 (direction 2-5pm Sun), a 12th-century dramatically skims the eastern
Châteaurenard), then church that’s home to lakeshore; it’s a 20-minute
the D900 to Coustellet. a statue of Sara-la-Kali, journey but is worth taking your
or black Sara. The crypt time over.

299

The Drive » Continue south
4 Étang de until you meet the D36, turning
Vaccarès right. Stop in Salin de Giraud DANITA DELIMONT / GETTY IMAGES ©
for bike hire and fuel (there’s
This 600-sq-km lagoon, a 24/7 gas station) or visit the
with its watery labyrinth salt works. The D36 splits off
of peninsulas and islands, to cross the Rhône via punt,
is where the wetlands but you continue south on the
are at their most dense, D36D, where it gets exciting:
spectacular saltpans appear on
almost primordial. Much your right, the river on your left.
of its tenuous shore forms
the Réserve Nation-
ale Camargue and is 6 Domaine de la
off- limits, making the Palissade
wonderful nature trails Along the D36D, Domaine
and wildlife observatories de la Palissade (%04 42
at La Capelière (%04 90 97 86 81 28; www.palissade.fr; rte
00 97; www.reserve-camargue. de la Mer; adult/child €3/free;
org; permits adult/child €3/1.50; h9am-6pm mid-Jun–mid-Sep,
h9am-1pm & 2-6pm daily Apr- to 5pm Mar–mid-Jun & mid-Sep–
Sep, 9am-1pm & 2-5pm Wed-Mon Oct, 9am-5pm Wed-Sun Feb &
Oct-Mar; c) particularly Nov, closed Dec-Jan) organises
precious. The 1.5km-long horse treks (€18 per hour)
Sentier des Rainettes where you’ll find yourself
(Tree-Frog Trail) takes you wading across brackish
through tamarisk wood- lakes and through a pur-
lands and the grasses of ple haze of sea lavender. It
brackish open meadows.
PROVENCE & SOUTHEAST FRANCE 27 THE CAMARGuE
will also take you around
The Drive » Continue on the lagoons and scrubby
D36B past Fiélouse for around glasswort on foot, or give
10 minutes. you a free map of the
estate’s marked walking
TRIP HIGHLIGHT trails. Don’t forget to rent
5 Salin de Badon binoculars; best €2 you’ll
spend this trip!
Before you leave La Cape-
lière, grab your permits The Drive » The next 3.7km
for another outstanding along the rte de la Mer is equally beach. Unusually, camp-
enchanting, with flocks of birds
reserve site, once the circling and salt crystals flashing ing is allowed here from
royal salt works (adult/ in the sun. Stop when you hit May to September, and
child €3/1.50). Around the the sea. hundreds of campervans
picturesque ruins are a line up along the dunes
number of observatories TRIP HIGHLIGHT for the duration of the
and 4.5km of wild trails belle saison. It’s a scene
– spy on flamingos wad- 7 Plage de that’s as polarising of
ing through springtime Piémanson opinion as it is spectacu-
iris. True birdwatchers Just try to resist the urge lar. Basic facilities and a
mustn’t miss a night in to greet the Med with a patrolled section of sand
the gîte (dorms €12) here, wild dash into the waves are right at the end of rte
a bare-bones cottage in a at this lovely, windswept de la Mer; head east for
priceless location. the popular nudist beach.

300

Stes-Maries-de-la-Mer White horses on the beach

The Drive » Backtrack north mountains. As fruitful as before Le Sambuc, while La
along the D36. Just before Salin it is beguiling, this is Eu- Chassagnette’s fork and trowel
de Giraud, look for a car park rope’s largest salt works, shingle is on the left to its north.
and a small black shack on producing some 800,000
your right. tonnes per year. A small
shop (the aforementioned 9 Le Sambuc
black shack) sells sel de This sleepy town’s
8 Le Point de Vue Camargue (Camargue outskirts hide away a
This lookout provides salt) by the pot or sack, couple of the region’s
a rare vantage point to bull sausages and tins of best restaurants and its
take in the stunning fragrant local olive oil. most upscale lodgings.
scene of pink-stained The Drive » Heading north Manadier (bull estate
salins (saltpans) and on D36 for 20 minutes, Le owner) Jacques Bon, son
soaring crystalline Mas de Peint is on your right of the family who owns

301

DETOUR:
AIGUES-MORTES
Start: 3 Stes-Maries-de-la-Mer
Located over the border from Provence in the Gard, Aigues-Mortes sits a winding
28km northwest of Stes-Maries-de-la-Mer at the Camargue’s far western extremity.
Its central axis of streets often throngs with tourists, and shops spill out Camargue-
themed tack, but the town is none the less magnificent, set in flat marshland
and completely enclosed by rectangular ramparts and a series of towers. Come
sundown, things change pace, and its squares are a lovely place to join locals for a
relaxed apéro (pre-dinner drink). Established by Louis IX in the mid-13th century to
give the French crown a Mediterranean port, it was from here that the king launched
the seventh Crusade (and persecuted Cathars). The Tour de Constance (www.
tourdeconstance.com; adult/child €7.50/free; h10am-7pm May-Aug, 10am-5.30pm Sep-Apr)
once held Huguenot prisoners; today it’s the start of the 1.6km wall-top circuit, a
must-do for heady views of salt mountains and viridian plains. Park on bd Diderot,
on the outside of the northwestern wall.


hotel Le Mas de Peint, horse and Camargue which still hosts bloody
hosts Camargue farm-life cross tattoos. bullfights as well as less
demonstration days, grisly courses Camar-
Journées Camarguaises 5 p303 guaises. Rather than
(%04 90 97 28 50; www. The Drive » Continue north poking the bull to death,
manade-jacques-bon.com; on the D36, where you’ll re-meet these traditional specta-
adult/child incl lunch €38/19; the D570 heading to Arles, a cles are a test of bravery,
PROVENCE & SOUTHEAST FRANCE 27 THE CAMARGuE
hmonthly in summer), with 25km stretch in all. in which amateur raze-
music, gardians (cow- teurs wearing skin-tight
boys) doing their thing white shirts and trousers
and taureau au feu de a Arles snatch rosettes and rib-
bois (bull on the barbie). Back in Arles, last stop bons tied to the horns of
But if it’s boots-‘n’-all is Les Arènes (Amphithéâ- the taureau with a sharp
gardian style you’re tre; %08 91 70 03 70; www. comb. Victory is never as
after, pull up a stool at arenes-arles.com; Rond-Point certain as the fact that, at
the roadside Café du des Arènes; adult/child €6/ some point, the bull will
Sambuc (rte de Sambuc): free, incl Théâtre Antique €9/ charge, the razeteurs will
bull couscous and a jug free; h9am-8pm Jul & Aug, leap the arena’s barrier
of rosé for loose change, to 7pm May-Jun & Sep, shorter and the crowd will cheer.
and staff adorned with hours rest of year), the town’s
fabulous amphitheatre, 54 p303, p409












302

Eating & Sleeping


shellfish €8.50-12.50; hnoon-3pm & 5-11pm
Arles 1 Apr-Nov) Seafood is the only thing worth its salt
in Stes-Maries. Part of the excellent Ô Pica
5 Le Comptoir du Calendal Cafe € Pica (mains €17-25; hnoon-3pm & 7-11pm
(%04 90 96 11 89; www.lecalendal.com; 5 rue Mar-Nov) restaurant, this attractive little shack
Porte de Laure; mains €12-18; h8am-8.30pm; specialises in coquillages (shellfish), including
W) Based on the ground floor of Le Calendal oysters, palourdes (clams), coques (cockles),
hotel, this bright and breezy cafe does a nice tellines (a type of local shellfish known
line in lunchtime sandwiches and salads, plus a elsewhere in France as pignons) and fritures
tempting choice of cakes and teas. (deep-fried and battered baby prawns, baby
squid or anchovies).
4 Le Cloître Design Hotel €€
(%04 88 09 10 00; www.hotel-cloitre.com; 4 Lodge Sainte Boutique Hotel €€€
Hélène
18 rue du Cloître; s €105, d €130-185; iW)
Proving you don’t need to spend a fortune for (%04 90 97 83 29; www.lodge-saintehelene.
originality and imagination, the 19 rooms at this com; chemin Bas des Launes; d €150-190;
zingy hotel next to the Cloître Ste-Trophime aiWs) These designer-chic, pearly white PROVENCE & SOUTHEAST FRANCE 27 THE CAMARGuE
combine history and modern design to winning terraced cottages strung along a lake edge are
effect: bold colours, funky patterns and retro prime real estate for birdwatchers and romance
furniture abound, and the rooftop terrace is a seekers. The mood is exclusive, remote and
stunning sundowner spot. The lavish breakfast so quiet you can practically hear the flamingo
spread is (unusually) worth the €14 price tag. wings flapping overhead. Each room comes
with a birdwatchers’ guide and binoculars, and
4 Grand Hôtel dynamic owner Benoît Noel is a font of local
Nord Pinus Heritage Hotel €€€ knowledge. Breakfast €15.
(%04 90 93 44 44; www.nord-pinus.com; place
du Forum; r €170-420) An Arlésian landmark,
this classy hotel has been frequented by Le Sambuc 9
everyone from famous bullfighters to artists
and writers like Picasso, Hemingway, Jean 5 La Chassagnette Gastronomy €€€
Cocteau and Fritz Lang. It’s chock-full of (%04 90 97 26 96; www.chassagnette.fr; rte
heritage: wrought-iron beds, art deco sinks, du Sambuc; 7-course menu €95, 5-course
20th-century furniture and vintage féria menu with wine €125, mains €36-42; hnoon-
posters, as well as black-and-white photographs 1.30pm & 7-9.30pm Thu-Mon Mar-Jun, Sep &
by Peter Beard downstairs. Room 10 is the Oct, daily Jul & Aug, reduced hours Nov-Mar)
grandest, and the bullfighters’ favourite. Surrounded by a vast potager (kitchen garden),
which supplies practically all the restaurant’s
produce, this renowned gourmet table is run by
Stes-Maries-de-la-Mer 3 Armand Amal, a former pupil of Alain Ducasse.
The multi-course menus are full of surprises,
5 La Cabane aux and the bucolic setting is among the loveliest
Coquillages Seafood € anywhere in the Camargue.
(%06 10 30 33 49; www.degustationcoquillages-
lessaintesmariesdelamer.com; 16 av Van Gogh;








303

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Promenade des Anglais
Nice personified, the Prom seductively
blends hedonism with history, pumping
beach clubs with quiet seaside gazing.
STRETCH English expats paid out-of-work citrus
farmers to build the Prom in 1822 – a
YOUR LEGS civic win-win. Don’t miss the palatial
facades of belle époque Hôtel Negresco
and art deco Palais de la Méditerranée.
NICE The Walk » Turn up av de Verdun past palms and
posh shops to place Masséna. Take in the elegant
Italian architecture, then head down the steps. Take
rue de l’Opéra, a quick walk to our next stop.
Rue St-François de Paule
Window-shop, pick up snacks or shop for
Start Hotel Negresco, gifts on this elegant street just back from
Promenade des Anglais the seaside. First stop: Moulin à Huile
d’Olive Alziari (www.alziari.com.fr; 14 rue St-
Finish Promenade des Anglais François de Paule; h8.30am-12.30pm & 2.15-7pm
Mon-Sat) for superb local olive oil, tap-
Distance 5.8km enade (olive spread) and olives. Head west
to the florid Opera House; across the
road is Henri Auer Confiserie (www.maison-
Duration 2 hours auer.com; 7 rue St-François de Paule; h9am-6pm
Tue-Sat), a film-set-perfect sweet shop;
pick up amandes enrobé (cocoa-dredged
chocolate-covered almonds).
Get to know Nice’s bustling heart
with this walk that begins with a The Walk » Continue on past soap sellers
and wine bars and into the open square. This
seaside stroll, then takes you into eventually becomes cours Saleya.
the tangled alleys of the old town, Cours Saleya
and finally up and over the city’s A top tourist destination that remains
Niçois to the core, this bustling market
soaring headland to the port. Along square does different moods according
the way shop, eat and drink with the to the hour. Greet the day with espresso
and a banter with the produce and
fun-loving Niçois. flower sellers, lunch with locals or get
rowdy after dark with the town’s cool
kids and students.
The Walk » Any of the streets running away
from the beach take you to rue de la Préfecture.
Vieux Nice
Soak in the labyrinthine streets of
Nice’s old town, stumbling upon
Take this walk on Trips Baroque gems like Cathédrale Ste-
Réparate (place Rossetti). Stop to eat
n} – book Le Bistrot d’Antoine (%04 93 85
29 57; 27 rue de la Préfecture; menus €25-43,

304

# e 0 0 0.25 miles
500 m
Av Thiers Av Jean Médecin Bd Carabacel 000
000
000
000
00000
000
Av Durante 00000 R Tonduti de I'Escarène # ï # Esplanade Kennedy R Barla
Musée d'Art
00000
00000
Moderne et d'Art
00000
00000
Contemporain
00000
00000
00000
00000
00000
Centre
00000
Information
R de I'Hôtel Promenade R Cassini
Jeunesse
des Postes
Bd Victor Hugo R Maccarani du Paillon Montée de
#
Place
R Masséna Masséna Montfort
R Paradis ‚ Vieux #
Nice
J R de France # ï Tourist Albert ler # # Colline du Q Lunel
%
Jardin
Office
Chateau
AmEx
# ï
#
Cours
de Paule
# Promenade des Anglais Rue St-François Saleya Colline du #
Château
Promenade Port
des Anglais Baie des Anges Q Rauba Capeu Lympia
MEDITERRANEAN
SEA
mains €15-25; hnoon-2pm & 7-10pm Tue-Sat), Promenade du Paillon
or grab an aperitif at Les Distilleries It’s hard to imagine that this beautifully
Idéales (www.lesdistilleriesideales.fr; 24 rue landscaped park was once a bus station
de la Préfecture; h9am-12.30am) and snack and multi-storey car park. The park
at Lou Pilha Leva (%04 93 13 99 08; 10 rue unfolds from the Théâtre National to
du Collet; small plates €3-5; h9am-midnight; place Masséna with a succession of green
v). Grab a delicious ice-cream cone at spaces, play areas and water features,
Fenocchio (www.fenocchio.fr; 2 place Rossetti; and is now a favourite among Niçois for
1/2 scoops €2.50/4; h9am-midnight Feb-Oct). afternoon or evening strolls. Local kids
The Walk » Take the stairs at rue Rossetti, or love playing in the fountains, too.
the lift at rue des Ponchettes to avoid the climb. The Walk » Follow the park as it heads
Colline du Château northeast and exit onto av St-Sébastien.
On a rocky outcrop towering over Vieux Musée d’Art Moderne et d’Art
Nice, the Parc du Château (h8.30am- Contemporain (MAMAC)
8pm Apr-Sep, to 6pm Oct-Mar) offers a pano- Nice’s flagship modern art museum
rama of the whole city – Baie des Anges (www.mamac-nice.org; place Yves Klein;
on one side, the port on the other. Fabu- h10am-6pm Tue-Sun) focuses is on Euro-
lous for picnics (there’s a waterfall) or to pean and American avant-garde from
let the kids loose in the playground.
the 1950s to the present, with works
The Walk » Follow the path north through the by leading artists such as Niki de Saint
park towards the cemetery, then follow Allée Phalle, César, Arman and Yves Klein.
Font aux Oiseaux and the Montée du Château The building’s rooftop is also an exhibi-
back into the old town. Find your way along the tion space (with knockout panoramas
backstreets to bd Jean Jaurès, and cross the road of the city). Then it’s back to the Prome-
into Promenade du Paillon.
dade des Anglais for a post-walk pastis.
305

306

Pyrenees &


Southwest



France











PEAKS TO PLAINS, VALLEYS TO
VILLAGES, MOUNTAINS TO MED:
the southwest encompasses the French
landscape in all its drama and diversity.
Stretching from the dog’s-tooth peaks of the
Pyrenees all the way to the scrubby, sun-
baked plains of the Languedoc, it’s a region
that’s made for driving, with lots of scenic
roads punctuated by fabulous viewpoints.
In the west, you’ll meander across mountain
passes and delve into remote valleys where
life still feels timeless and traditional. As you
move east, you’ll discover the two sides of the
Languedoc: Bas-Languedoc, with its flat plains,
sprawling vineyards and laid-back coastal cities,
and Haut-Languedoc, home to the wild hills and
rocky gorges of the Parc National des Cévennes.

Le Pays Cathare Hillside village on the Cathar Trail 307
DAVID GIRAL PHOTOGRAPHY / GETTY IMAGES ©

Tulle # \
Périgueux # \#\ Boulazac / ·
A89
Pyrenees & # \ Mussidan # \ Brive-la-Gaillarde
Libourne /·
/ ·
Southwest # ^ Bordeaux A89 La Madeleine DORDOGNE # \ # \ Souillac
A20
# \
Sarlat-
France # \ la-Canéda Parc Naturel
Régional Causses
GIRONDE
de Quercy
LOT 0 ¸ # \
Marmande LOT-ET- Fumel D653
# \ C é lé Figeac
GARONNE # \
Parc Naturel / · Villeneuve- # \ Cahors # \
Bay of Régional des A62 sur-Lot Villefranche
Biscay Landes de Cascogne de Rouergue # \
# \ Mimizan / · Agen
A65
/ · # \ Sabres 0 ¸ # \ Valence # \ Caussade
A70
LANDES Mont-de- D931 # \ # \ Moissac
# \
Marsan # \ Castelsarrasin
Tartas # \ F G Condom Gaillac
# \ 30 TARN-ET- # \
St-Vincent- # \ Dax GERS GARONNE
de-Tyrosse # \ # \ Aire-s-l'Adour Auch
/ · # \ # \ Gimont # ]
A65
Bayonne # \ # \Orthez Mirande # \ Toulouse
/ · HAUTE-
A64
# ] Irún # \ St-Palais Lescar Masseube # \ GARONNE
Cambo- # \
les-Bains 0 ¸ Oloron # \ # \ Pau / ·
A61
# \ D933 Ste-Marie # \ Tarbes
# \
# \ # \ # \ Cazères
St-Jean Pied de Port / ·
A64
31
# \ F G # \ Pamiers
Montréjeau
NAVARRA F G # \ 0 ¸ # \ Foix F G
D117
31
HAUTES-
# ^ Pamplona PYRÉNÉES St-Girons 29 # \
# \
Tarascon- ARIÈGE
S P A I N sur-Ariège
# \ Jaca ANDORRA LA VELLA
: CATALONIA : # _
: :
Cheat’s Compostela 7 Days
s Pont du Gard to u Take a spiritual trip along one of
Viaduc de Millau 5 Days
Traverse the crags and causses of France’s oldest pilgrimage routes.
the Cévennes, with a landmark (p327)
bridge at either end. (p311)
The Cathar Trail 3 Days The Pyrenees 7 Days
t Head into Bas-Languedoc’s v Explore the majestic mountain
backcountry to discover its Cathar landscape, easily the equal of the
castles. (p319) Alps. (p335)
308

CANTAL \ # HAUTE- Yssingeaux
DON'T
\
#
\
0 Parc Naturel # Moissac LOIRE # Le Puy- \ # MISS
¸
Régional
/
des Volcans
D922
\
\
D15
d'Auvergne # St-Flour en-Velay ·
¸
#
# \ 0 \ # Saugues Valence ]
D989
Aurillac
Truyère St-Chely Privas \ # Rhône Le Puy-en-Velay
#
\
G
\
30
0 F d'Apcher LOZÈRE # Langogne Montélimar Climb inside a giant
¸
D107
Lo t
Le Monastier ARDÈCHE # \ statue of the Virgin
\
# \ # \ # Mende Mary for views across
Espalion Parc National 0¸ Grignan # \
·
/ des Cévennes D104 this Auvergnat town.
A75
# Rodez Tarn # Florac PROVENCE Take them in on Trip u
\
¸
AVEYRON 0 \ Orange #
]
D907b
G
]
28
¸
Millau F Alès GARD #
\
#
\ # 0 Pont du Lac de Gaube
D981
# \
Anduze Gard One of the Pyrenees’
#
]
# Roquefort
]
#
0
¸ Parc Naturel \ Avignon finest trails leads to the
D992
Régional des
#
Grands Causses Nîmes ] # Caissargues glittering Lac de Gaube.
/
\
A9
TARN # Lodève · # Arles Catch the cable car to
\
]
the trail on Trip v
#
\
/
A75
Parc Naturel Régional · ] Aimargues
#
du Haut- Montpellier
Languedoc Parc Naturel
# \ Régional :
Mazamet HÉRAULT # Sète de Camargue : Chaos de
·
A9
Beziers / \ :
Lézignan- # \ \ # Montpellier-le-Vieux
Carcassonne Corbières Colombiers
/
· \ Golfe de landscape of limestone
\ # # \ # Narbonne An otherworldly
A61
Beauduc
AUDE pillars has been created
F
G # Sigean
29
\
Tuchan here by centuries of
natural erosion. Walk it
·
Quillan # \ /
0
¸
A9
# \ D117 M E D I T E R R A N E A N on Trip s
S E A
# Perpignan
]
PYRÉNÉES-
ORIENTALES # e 0 0 50 miles 100 km Col d’Aubisque
The col is one of the
Pyrenees’ highest road
passes. Competitors in
the Tour de France have
to pedal it, so count
yourself lucky to just
drive it on Trip v
Roquefort
Descend into murky,
mould-covered cellars
JACQUES PIERRE / HEMIS.FR / GETTY IMAGES ©
to find out how this
pungent fromage is
made. Sample a piece
on Trip s
Languedoc Bridge over the Herault River between Anduze and Florac
309

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Location Caption details to go here

Pont du Gard to
VISIONS OF OUR LAND / GETTY IMAGES ©

Viaduc de Millau 28





This trip begins and ends with a river, traversing hills and gorges
in between. Start at the Pont du Gard, France’s greatest Roman
aqueduct, and finish by crossing the space-age Viaduc du Millau.

TRIP HIGHLIGHTS
5 DAYS
142 km 223KM / 139 MILES
Gorges du Tarn
Canoes are great for
exploring the gorges at GREAT FOR…
your own pace
GJ

BEST TIME TO GO
April to July.

# # Florac ESSENTIAL
# 5
# #
I PHOTO
#
m K The Pont du Gard
# # Anduze Roman from the water
#
#
below.
# 7
l L BEST FOR
#
# # 1
#
K FAMILIES
Canoeing beneath the
towering cliffs of the
Viaduc du Millau Gorges du Tarn.
Enjoy the unforgettable Pont du Gard
drive across France's Marvel at a mighty
futuristic road-bridge Roman aqueduct
223 km 0 km
V Location Caption details to go hereiaduc de Millau Gravity-defying bridge crossing the Tarn River 311

Pont du Gard TRIP HIGHLIGHT

28 to Viaduc de 1 Pont du Gard
Millau
The trip begins 21km
northeast of Nîmes at the
Pont du Gard (%04 66 37
50 99; www.pontdugard.fr; car
Languedoc’s known for its fine coastline and & up to 5 passengers €18, after
even finer wines, but on this trip you’ll explore a 8pm €10, by bicycle or on foot
€7, after 8pm €3.50; hsite
different side to this peaceful corner of France. 24hr year-round, visitor centre
Inland, the landscape climbs into the high & museum 9am-8pm Jul & Aug,
shorter hours Sep–mid-Jan &
hills and river ravines of the Parc National des mid-Feb–Jun), France’s fin-
Cévennes, beloved by walkers, kayakers and est Roman aqueduct. At
50m high and 275m long,
nature-lovers alike. The scenery is truly grand, and graced with 35 arch-
but keep your eyes on the tarmac, as some of es, it was built around
19 BC to transport water
the roads are hairy. from Uzès to Nîmes. A




30 km to ‚ Lot
F G # \ Mende Col des
30
Tribes
Barjac
# \ (1130m)
c
Le Bleynard # \
Lot # \ Balsièges
# \ Chanac 0 ¸
# \ Banassac N106 Villeforte # \
Causse de Sauveterre
Parc
Parc LOZÈRE Mt Lozère R National des
National des
0 ¸ Cévennes Ste-Enimie # \ Ispagnac (1699m) Cévennes
A75
0 ¸
# \
Gorges du Tarn # D907b Tarn 0 ¸
#
D998
5
# \
# \ #
4
# \ Castelbouc # Florac Castagnol
Sévérac- # \
le-Château # \ Col de
Portes
La Malène St-Laurent 0 ¸
N106
# \ Les Causse Méjean # \ de Trèves c
0 ¸ Vignes Barre-des-
# \
D907b
Cévennes LANGUEDOC- # \
Le Rozier Gorges de la Jonte ROUSSILLON
# \ Jonte
Parc Naturel Régional# # \ Meyrueis
#
6
des Grandes Causses Causse Noir Mt Aigoual
D110
AVEYRON 0 ¸ # \ La Roque-Ste (1567m) 0 ¸
m K Dourbie Marguerite R
D907
# \ Millau Parc Naturel Trèves St-Jean # \
Tarn # Grands Causses # \ Dourbie Valleraugue du Gard #
# 7
# \
Régional des
# \ #
3
Viaduc de
Millau Cantobre # \ Montagne du Lingas Anduze
#
H # \
p316 Cernon Nant Le Vigan
0 ¸ # \ St-Hippolyte
# \ Roquefort 0 ¸ # \
D999
A75
du Fort
# \ Ganges
# e 0 0 10 miles
20 km

museum explores the Gard. Early evening is h10am-12.30pm & 2-6.30pm
bridge’s history. You can a good time to visit, as Jul & Aug, 10am-noon & 2-6pm
walk across the tiers for admission is cheaper and Sep-Jun), a castle that
panoramic views over the bridge is stunningly belonged to the powerful
the Gard River, but the illuminated after dark. Dukes of Uzès for more
best perspective on the The Drive » Drive northwest than 1000 years. You can
bridge is from down- from the Pont du Gard along the climb 135 steps to the top
stream, along the 1.4km D981 for 15km to Uzès. of the Tour Bermonde for
Mémoires de Garrigue a magnificent view across
walking trail. the town’s rooftops.
For a unique perspec- 2 Uzès Built in 1090 on the
tive on the Pont du Gard, Northwest of the Pont du site of a Roman temple,
you need to see it from Gard is Uzès, a once- Uzès’ Cathédrale St-
the water. Canoe and/or wealthy medieval town Théodont (http://nimes.
kayak rental companies that grew rich on the pro- catholique.fr; place de l’Évêché;
are plentiful. ceeds of silk, linen and h9am-6pm May-Sep, to 5pm
There are large car liquorice. It’s also home Oct-Apr) was partially
parks on both banks of to the Duché Château destroyed in both the
the river, a 400m level (www.duche-uzes.fr; place 13th and 16th centuries
walk from the Pont du and stripped during
du Duché; €13, incl tour €18;
the French Revolution.
All that remains of the
11th-century church is its PYRENEES & SOUTHWEST FRANCE 28 PONT DU GARD TO VIADUC DE MILLAU
42m-high round tower,
# \ Uzer Tour Fenestrelle, the
RHONE-ALPES only round bell tower in
# \ Balazuc ARDÈCHE France, which resem-
bles an upright Leaning
Lablachère # \ Tower of Pisa.
0 ¸ Vallon-Pont-d'Arc
D104
# \ #\ # \ #\
Les Vans Gorge de Bourg-
l’Ardèche Réserve Saint- # \
Naturelle Andéol Rhône LINK
YOUR
TRIP
Ardèche
# \
Barjac
c Saint- Roman Provence
Ambroix # \ Pont- Saint- Esprit # \ l
Our tour through
La Grand'Combe southern France’s Gallo-
# \
PROVENCE Roman legacy also passes
0 ¸ Bagnols- sur-Cèze # \ through Pont du Gard, so it’s
N106
a perfect add-on.
Alès 0 ¸
D6
u
# \ Cheat’s
LANGUEDOC- Compostela
# \ Vezénobres 0¸ ROUSSILLON Our Chemin de Compostela
# \ D981
Uzès drive is an ideal route to
# \ #
# Pont du the Atlantic Coast. It starts
2
0 ¸ Gard 180km northeast of Millau in
# 1 l L
D982
# Le Puy-en-Velay.
Gard
# \
Remoulins
F G 313
21
Rhône

If you’ve got a sweet are few and far between, so
tooth, don’t miss the remember to fill your tank.
nearby Musée du Bonbon WESTEND61 / GETTY IMAGES ©
Haribo (Sweets Museum;
www.museeharibo.fr; Pont des 4 Florac
Charrettes; adult/child €7/5; It’s a long, winding drive
h9.30am-7pm Jul & Aug, up into the Parc National
10am-1pm & 2-6pm Tue-Sun des Cévennes (www.ceven
Sep-Jun), a candy museum nesparcnational.fr). Created
belonging to the Haribo in 1970, this wild expanse
brand. Join in with a tast- of hills, gorges and empty
ing session, or just pick up plateaus covers a core 937
some treats for the road. sq km of Upper Langue-
doc. Famously featured in
54 p317 Robert Louis Stevenson’s
The Drive » From Uzès, classic 1878 travelogue,
travel 44km west on the D982 Travels with a Donkey
and D907 to Anduze; the Train in the Cévennes, it’s still
à Vapeur des Cévennes is well a remote and sparsely
signposted.
populated landscape,
home to rare species
including vultures, bea-
3 Anduze vers, otters, roe deer and
If you fancy a break from golden eagles.
driving, a trip aboard The riverside town of
the Train à Vapeur des Florac makes an ideal
Cévennes (%04 66 60 base, draped along the
59 00; www.trainavapeur. west bank of the Tarnon
com; adult/child/bike return River, a tributary of the
€15.50/10.50/3; hApr-Oct) is Tarn. There’s not much
just the ticket. This vin- to see in town, but it’s
tage steam train chugs a good place to stretch
13km between Anduze your legs: Florac’s Maison
and St-Jean du Gard, a du Parc National des
PYRENEES & SOUTHWEST FRANCE 28 PONT DU GARD TO VIADUC DE MILLAU
journey of 40 minutes. Cévennes (%04 66 49 53
each way. En route, you’ll 00; www.cevennes-parc
stop at a 150-year-old national.fr; 6bis place du Palais;
bamboo garden, the h9am-noon & 2-6pm Mon-Fri, it passes through Ispagnac and
Bambouseraie de Pra- 10am-1pm & 3-6pm Sat & Sun tracks the river to Ste-Énimie,
france (www.bambouseraie. Apr-Sep, shorter hours Oct-Mar) 28km northwest of Florac.
com; adult/child €9.60/5.60; has comprehensive in-
h9.30am-7pm mid-Mar–Sep, formation on hiking and TRIP HIGHLIGHT
to 6pm early–mid-Mar & Oct, other activities. 5 Gorges du Tarn
to 5pm early–mid-Nov, closed
mid-Nov–Feb). 5 p317 West of Florac, the rush-
ing Tarn River has carved
The Drive » The 74km stretch The Drive » Head on from out a series of sheer
between Anduze and Florac Florac along the N106, and keep slashes into the limestone
along the D907 follows the river your eyes open for the sharp left
and slowly loops up through turn onto the D907B towards known as the Gorges du
the forested hillsides into the Ispagnac. The road teeters Tarn. Running southwest
high Cévennes. Petrol stations along the edge of the gorge as for 50km from Ispagnac,

314

Gorges du Tarn Kayaking on the Tarn River
this spectacular ravine is still the best way to D29 and turn left onto the D110
provides one of Langue- experience the scenery; to the Chaos de Montpellier-le-
doc’s most scenic drives. the villages of Ste-Énimie Vieux, another 9km.
In summer the cliffside and La Malène both have
road becomes one long lots of companies offer-
traffic jam, though – ing river trips. 6 Parc Naturel
you’ll find spring or The Drive » The cliff-side Régional des
autumn are more relax- D907B runs all the way to Le Grandes Causses
ing times to travel. Rozier, 36km to the southwest of Around the gorges of the
Until the road was Ste-Énimie. It’s a superbly scenic western Cévennes, the
constructed in 1905, drive, so don’t rush, and leave Tarn, Jonte and Dourbie
the only way through ample time for photo ops. When Rivers have created four
the gorges was by boat. you get to Le Rozier, crawl your high causses (‘plateaux’
Piloting your own kayak way up the hairpin bends of the

315

DETOUR:
ROQUEFORT
Start: 7 Millau
The village of Roquefort, 25km southwest of Millau via the D992 and the D999, is
synonymous with its famous blue cheese, produced from the milk of ewes who live
in natural caves around the village. Marbled with distinctive blue-green veins caused
by microscopic mushrooms known as Penicillium roquefort, this powerfully pungent
cheese has been protected by royal charter since 1407, and was the first cheese in
France to be granted AOC (Appéllations d’Origines Contrôlées) status in 1925.
There are seven AOC-approved producers in the village, two of which (La Société
and and Gabriel Coulet) offer cellar visits and tasting sessions. The cellars of five
other producers (Roquefort Carles, Le Paipillon, Le Vieux Berger, Vernières Frères
and Les Fromageries Occitanes) aren’t open to the public, but they all have shops
where you can sample the village’s illustrious cheese.


in the local lingo): Montpellier- le-Vieux of steel, but somehow
Sauveterre, Méjean, Noir Tourist Train (www.montpel still manages to look
and Larzac, each slightly lierlevieux.com; Montpellier-le- like a gossamer thread,
different in geological Vieux; adult/child €4.40/3.60; seemingly supported by
character. You could h9am-7pm Jul & Aug, nothing more than seven
spend several days tour- 9.30am-5.30pm late Mar-Jun & needle-thin pylons.
ing along the tangled Sep-early Nov) instead. It’s such a wonderful
roads that cut between The Drive » Continue along structure, it’s worth see-
them, but the D996 the narrow D110 towards Millau, ing twice. Begin with the
along the Gorges de la 18km to the southwest. There drive across: head north
Jonte is particularly are a couple of great roadside of Millau on the D911,
detour-worthy. lookouts on the way, as well as a and then turn south onto
South of Le Rozier is trail to the top of the local peak the A75 motorway.
the Chaos de Montpellier- known as Puncho d’Agast. Once you’ve crossed
le-Vieux (www.montpellier the bridge, turn off at
PYRENEES & SOUTHWEST FRANCE 28 PONT DU GARD TO VIADUC DE MILLAU
levieux.com; Montpellier-le- TRIP HIGHLIGHT exit 46, and loop back to
Vieux; adult/child €6.80/5.40, 7 Viaduc de Millau Millau along the D999
combination ticket with Aven and D992, which passes
Armand €15.80/11.50; h9am- Finish your road trip directly underneath the
7pm Jul & Aug, 9.30am-5.30pm with a spin over the bridge and gives you an
late Mar-Jun & Sep-early gravity-defying Viaduc unforgettable ant’s-eye
Nov), where centuries of de Millau (www.leviaducde view. En route, you’ll
erosion have carved out millau.com; A75, Millau; toll Jul pass the bridge’s visitor
a landscape of amazing & Aug €9.80, Sep-Jun €7.80; centre, Viaduc Éspace
limestone formations, of- h24hr), the famous road (%05 65 61 61 54; www.
ten given fanciful names, bridge that hovers 343m leviaducdemillau.com; D992,
such as the Sphinx and above the Tarn River. Millau; guided tours adult/child
the Elephant. Three Designed by the British €6/3.50; h10am-7pm Apr-
walking trails cover the architect Norman Foster, Oct, to 5pm Nov-Mar).
site, or you can cheat the bridge contains over
and catch the Chaos de 127,000 cu metres of con- 54 p317
crete and 19,000 tonnes

316

Eating & Sleeping


spring in the courtyard adjoining this ivy-clad
Uzès 2 restaurant. River trout with preserved lemon,
Lozère lamb with potato gratin, vegetable tart
5 Le Tracteur Bistro €€ with Cévennes goat’s cheese, and red wine–
(%04 66 62 17 33; www.lucietestud.com/ marinated pears are among the daily-changing
letracteur; Argilliers; 3-course lunch/dinner dishes incorporating locally sourced produce.
menus €25/29.50; hkitchen noon-2pm Wines are also local and beers are artisanal.
Mon-Thu, noon-2pm & 7-10pm Fri, 7-10pm Sat) Live music often plays of an evening.
A converted warehouse in Argilliers, 8km
southeast of Uzès via the D981, is the setting
for this offbeat, and brilliant, dining destination Millau 7
– part wine shop, part art gallery, part deli, Regional Cuisine €€
part bistro with a tree-shaded courtyard. 5 La Mangeoire
Filled with battered furniture and abstract art, (%05 65 60 13 16; www.restaurantmillau.
it’s a fantastic space for dining on inspired com; 10 bd de la Capelle; 2-/3-course lunch
Mediterranean creations. Look out for the menus €16/23, 3-/4-/5-course dinner menus
namesake tractor outside. €24/33/49.50, mains €17-26; hnoon-2pm &
7-10pm Tue-Sun) Fronted by a shady pavement
4 Château d’Arpaillargues Hotel €€€ terrace strung with fairy lights and opening to
(%04 66 22 14 48; http://hp360.fr; rue du a romantic vaulted-stone dining room, Millau’s PYRENEES & SOUTHWEST FRANCE 28 PONT DU GARD TO VIADUC DE MILLAU
Château, Arpaillargues-et-Aureillac; d €160-315; best restaurant refines the rich flavours of the
paWs) Inside an 18th-century château region: wood-fire-grilled Trénels sheep-stomach
once occupied by Franz Liszt’s muse, Marie sausage with aligot (mashed potato and
de Flavigny, rooms at this regal residence melted sheep’s cheese); Aubrac beef ribs with
range from large to vast and come with period Roquefort sauce; spicy spit-roasted local hare;
features such as fireplaces, beams and lamb sweetbreads in parsley-butter sauce; and
flagstone floors. All are decorated in restrained chestnut sorbet in Armagnac.
country style. There’s a wonderful swimming Hotel €€
pool and an excellent restaurant. It’s 5km west 4 Château de Creissels
of Uzès off the D982. (%05 65 60 16 59; www.chateau-de-creissels.
com; place du Prieur, Creissels; d €86-120,
ste €132; hearly Mar-late Dec; paWs)
Florac 4 In Creissels, 2km southwest of Millau on the
D992, this castle’s rooms are split between the
5 Les Tables de la 12th-century tower (parquet floors, fireplaces,
Fontaine Traditional French €€ oil paintings) and modern wings (sleek showers,
(%04 66 65 21 73; www.tables-de-la-fontaine. stripped-wood floors, designer lamps; some
com; 31 rue du Therond; 2-/3-course menus have balconies overlooking the large garden).
€21/24; hnoon-2pm & 7-9.30pm Mon-Sat, Excellent regional cuisine is served in the
noon-2pm Sun Apr-Sep; c) Red-umbrella- restaurant’s brick-vaulted cellar and panoramic
shaded tables are scattered around a natural terrace. Breakfast costs €11.50; half-board is
€74 per person.










317

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Location Caption details to go here

DOUG PEARSON / GETTY IMAGES ©


The Cathar Trail 29





From the fairy-tale towers of Carcassonne to the tumbledown walls
of Montségur, this cross-country trip explores the main Cathar
strongholds of sunbaked southwest France.

TRIP HIGHLIGHTS
3 DAYS
188 km 0 km 247KM / 153 MILES
Château de Puivert Carcassonne
Admire frescos of Wander the
medieval musicians battlements of this GREAT FOR…
medieval city
BJ


BEST TIME TO GO
l L September and
## #
# 1
October when the
m K summer heat has
passed.
#
Foix # Duilhac-sous- ESSENTIAL
## #
6
# # Peyrepertuse # I PHOTO
# # # 7
Quillan Cucugnan # Tuchan
#
#
4
###
The view from
the ramparts of
Carcassonne.
K BEST FOR
HISTORY
Château de Montségur Château de Quéribus
Hike to a classic Enjoy panoramic views Go in search of
crumbling castle from a Cathar keep the Holy Grail in
215 km 115 km Montségur.
F Location Caption details to go hereoix The Château de Foix 319

TRIP HIGHLIGHT
The Cathar
29 Trail 1 Carcassonne
Jutting from a rocky spur
of land, and ringed by
battlements and turrets,
the fortress of Carcas-
The parched land between Perpignan and the sonne was one of the
Pyrenees is known as Le Pays Cathare (Cathar Cathars’ most important
strongholds. After a
Land), a reference to the Christian order that notorious siege in August
escaped persecution here during the 12th 1209, the castle crumbled
into disrepair, but was
century. Its legacy remains in a string of hilltop saved from destruc-
castles, flanked by sheer cliffs and dusty tion in the 19th century
by Viollet- le-Duc, who
scrubland. Most can be reached after a short, rebuilt the ramparts and
stiff climb, but this is wild country and fiercely added the turrets’ dis-
tinctive pointy roofs.
hot in summer, so be sure to pack a hat.




‚ / ·
140 km to A61 Alzonne Orbiel
Saverdun Canal du Midi # \
# \ F G
30
# #
\ # 1
Carcassonne l L
Fanjeaux
# \
0 ¸ Preixan \ # Aude
D623
# Pamiers # Villefloure
\
\
Mirepoix Lauraguel # \
\ #
# Greffeil
\
Saint-
# Félix-de- # \ Limoux
\
Rieutord ARIÈGE 0 ¸
D625
# Saint- Binoít
\
0 ¸ Vernajoul Laroque- # Chalabre # \ Alet-les- LANGUEDOC-
# m K
D117
\
#
Bains
d'Olmes
\
Foix # \ # Château de / · ROUSSILLON
D18
8
\ # Roquefixade Puivert # Couiza
Soula # \ # # \ \
#
6
D117
F G Bélesta \ # 0 ¸ Esperaza
31
# # Quillan Bugarach
# 7
#
\
\
Château de # \ Montségur
Tarascon- # Belvianes- et-Cavirac
# \ Montségur \
sur-Ariège
# \ \ #
\ # Espezel St-Martin-Lys Lapradelle
Niaux \ # # \ 0 ¸
D117
# \ Axat #
5
Camurac 0 ¸ #
Ariège
# Luzenac D118 Château de
\
Puilaurens
# \
# e 0 0 10 miles 20 km Sournia

These days Carcas- out for a white sign with a blue hours Sep–mid-Nov & mid-
sonne is one of the castle pointing to ‘Aguilar’. Drive Feb–May), which squats on
Languedoc’s biggest along this minor track to the a low hill near the village
tourist draws, which car park. of Tuchan. It’s the small-
means its cobbled streets est of the castles, and it
can feel uncomfortably is crumbling fast –
crowded in summer. 2 Château but you can still make
Try to time your visit d’Aguilar out the six corner turrets
for early or late in the When the Albigensian as well as the hexagonal
day when it’s at its most Crusade forced the Ca- outer wall.
peaceful. thars into the mountains The Drive » Take the D611
between France and the through Tuchan, emerging
54 p325
province of Aragon, they from the narrow streets onto
The Drive » From sought refuge in a line of dry, vine-covered slopes. You’ll
Carcassonne, take the A61 east frontier strongholds. The reach a roundabout; turn
for 36km towards Narbonne. first of these sites is the left onto the D14, signed to
Turn off at exit 25, signed to Château d’Aguilar (%04 Padern and Cucugnan. (After
Lezignan-Corbières, and follow 15km, take note of the turn-off
the D611 across the sunbaked 68 45 51 00; www.tuchan. to the Château de Quéribus
countryside for 46km. Just fr; Tuchan; adult/child €4/2; on the D123 as you bypass PYRENEES & SOUTHWEST FRANCE 29 THE CATHAR TRAIL
before you reach Tuchan, look h9am-7pm Jun-Aug, shorter Cucugnan; you’ll be returning
here following your next stop.)
Continue 9km northwest
towards Duilhac-sous-
Peyrepertuse.
Homps # \


Lézignan-
# Corbières
\
/ · 0 ¸ Narbonne # \ LINK
D611
A61
YOUR
Orbieu TRIP
AUDE Cheat’s
# \ Lagrasse u Compostela
0 ¸ / ·
A9
# \ Mayronnes D611 Make a longish detour off
our version of the Chemin
Sigean \ # de St-Jacques by driving
# \ Villerouge-
Termenès southeast of Moissac for
# \
Durban- La Palme 165km to Carcassonne, with
Mouthoumet Corbières # \ an optional stop in Toulouse
# \
en route.
Duilhac-sous-
Peyrepertuse The Pyrenees
Châtteau de Tuchan # Château v
# \#
2
Peyrepertuse d'Aguilar Foix sits on the
D14
# # \ / · eastern edge of the
3
#
# \
Cucugnan # Château # Tautavel Pyrenees, so our Pyrenean
\
4
#
de Quéribus
# 0¸ # Maury tour makes a natural next
D117
stage – although you’ll have
\
A9
St-Paul de \ Verdouble Cases- / · to do it in reverse.
Fernouillet de-Pène
# \ # \ # \ Rivesaltes
# \ Ansignan Estage # \
PYRÉNÉES- Peyrestortes Canet-en-
ORIENTALES Roussillon
# \ Trévillach 321
Perpignan # ] # \

that has been converted
3 Château de into a theatre, and shows
Peyrepertuse a film documenting the
story of the castle through
The largest of the Cathar the eyes of one of the TUUL AND BRUNO MORANDI / GETTY IMAGES ©
castles is Peyrepertuse castle’s curates.
(%04 82 53 24 07; www. The top of the keep
chateau-peyrepertuse.com; is reached via a narrow
Duilhac-sous-Peyrepertuse; staircase and offers a
adult/child Jul & Aug €9/3.50, truly mind-blowing
rest of year €6.50/3.50; view stretching to the
h9am-8pm Jul & Aug, shorter Mediterranean and the
hours rest of year), with a Pyrenees on a clear day.
dizzying drop of 800m
on either side. Several of The Drive » Drive back
the original towers and down to the turn-off, and turn
many sections of ram- left. Continue along this road
(the D19) for 8km to the small
parts are still standing. town of Maury. Take the D117
In mid-August, the castle for 25km to Puilaurens. The
holds falconry displays next castle is signed from here,
and a two-day medieval another 3km south.
festival, complete with
knights in armour.
5 Château de
The Drive » Backtrack along
the D14 for 9km to the turn-off Puilaurens
onto the D123 near Cucugnan. If it’s the classic hilltop
The road twists and turns castle you’re after, Pui-
steeply into the dusty hills. laurens (%04 68 20 65 26;
Keep your eyes peeled for the www.pays-axat.org; Lapradelle;
PYRENEES & SOUTHWEST FRANCE 29 THE CATHAR TRAIL
Quéribus turn-off as you drive
another 3km uphill. adult/child €5/3; h9am-
8pm Jul & Aug, shorter hours
Sep–mid-Nov & Feb-Jun) is it.
TRIP HIGHLIGHT With its turrets and lofty
4 Château de location, it’s perhaps the
Quéribus most dramatic of the
Perilously perched 728m Cathar fortresses, with
all the classic medieval
up on a rocky hill, Quéri- defences: double defen-
bus (%04 68 45 03 69; www. sive walls, four corner
cucugnan.fr; Cucugnan; adult/ towers and crenellated
child €6.50/3.50; h9am-8pm battlements. It’s also
Jul & Aug, shorter hours rest of said to be haunted by the
year) was the site of the Ca- White Lady, a niece of
thars’ last stand in 1255. Philippe le Bel.
Its interior structure is
fairly well preserved: the The Drive » Backtrack to the
Salle du Pilier inside the D117 and follow it west for 36km
central keep still features to Puivert, skirting through hills,
its original Gothic pillars, fields and forests. Just before
vaulting and archways. you reach the village, there’s a
sharp right turn to the château,
There’s also a small house

322

Carcassone A 12th-century Cathar stronghold

323

in 1242, that the Cathar
TOP TIP: movement suffered its
PASSEPORT DES SITES heaviest defeat; attacked
DU PAYS CATHARE by a force of 10,000 royal
troops, the castle fell
The Passeport des Sites du Pays Cathare (www. after a gruelling nine-
payscathare.org/passeport-des-sites; €2) gives a €1 month siege, and 220 of
reduction off 21 local sites, including medieval the defenders were burnt
abbeys at St-Hilaire, Lagrasse and Villelongue. Pick it alive when they refused
up at tourist offices throughout the region.
to renounce their faith.
Montségur has also
been cited as a possible
near a white barn. It is 1km troubadours – including
further up a steep track. a flautist, guitarist, bag- location for the Holy
piper, tambourine man Grail, which was suppos-
TRIP HIGHLIGHT and hurdy-gurdy player. edly smuggled out of the
castle in the days before
6 Château de The Drive » Take the D117 the final battle.
Puivert west of Puivert for 13km to The original castle was
Bélesta. As you drive through
Built during the late 12th town, spot signs to ‘Fougax razed to rubble after the
century, the Château et B/Querigut/Château siege, and the present-
day ruins largely date
de Puivert (%04 68 20 81 de Montségur’. The village from the 17th century.
52; www.chateau-de-puivert. is another 14km further,
com; Puivert; adult/child spectacularly perched above The Drive » Continue on the
the forested slopes; follow the
€5/3; h9am-7pm Easter– winding road past the village D117, turning onto the busy N20
mid-Nov, 10am-5pm Sun-Fri until you see the castle’s to Foix, 32km northwest.
mid-Dec–Easter) belonged roadside car park.
to the aristocratic Con-
gost family, who were TRIP HIGHLIGHT 8 Foix
PYRENEES & SOUTHWEST FRANCE 29 THE CATHAR TRAIL
high-profile members of Complete your trip
the Cathar movement. 7 Château de through Cathar country
It was besieged in 1210 Montségur with a visit to the
by Thomas Pons de For the full Monty Château de Foix (%05
Bruyères-le-Chatel, who Python medieval vibe – 61 05 10 10; adult/child
subsequently took control not to mention a good €5.60/3.80; h19am-6pm in
of the castle and oversaw workout (bring your summer, shorter hours rest of
its redevelopment. own water!) – tackle the year), nestled among the
Camped on a 605m- steep 1207m climb to foothills of the Pyrenees.
high promontory, Puivert the ruins of the Château It’s in a more complete
still boasts much of its de Montségur (www. state of repair than many
medieval footprint. Five montsegur.fr; adult/child Jul & of the Cathar fortresses
of the eight corner towers Aug €6.50/3.50, other times you’ve seen, and gives
remain, and the central €5.50/3; h9am-7pm Jul & you some idea of how
keep has four vaulted Aug, 10am-6pm Apr-Jun & Sep, they may have looked in
rooms including the Salle 10am-5pm Mar & Oct, 11am- their medieval heyday.
des Musiciens, decorated 4pm Nov-Feb). It was here, 4 p325, p343
with frescos of medieval






324

Eating & Sleeping


4 Hôtel de la Cité Historic Hotel €€€
Carcassonne 1 (%04 68 71 98 71; www.hoteldelacite.fr;
place Auguste-Pierre-Pont, La Cité; s/d/f from
5 Au Comte Roger Modern French €€ €230/270/350; aWs) Built in the 19th
(%04 68 11 93 40; www.comteroger.com; 14 century in the Gothic Revival style, this is
rue St-Louis, La Cité; 2-/3-course lunch menus Carcassonne’s most magnificent place to stay.
€24/30, 3-course dinner menu €41, mains Palatial rooms are individually appointed, many
€20-32; hnoon-1.30pm & 7-9.30pm Tue-Sat) with wood panelling and/or timber beams, and
The citadel location bumps up the prices some have panoramic private terraces. Floor-
considerably, but this is one of the better to-ceiling bookshelves line the private library,
establishments for traditional cassoulet (stew which has its own bar, and there’s a topiary-
with white beans, Toulouse sausage and duck). flanked swimming pool. Its Michelin-starred
The restaurant’s smart dining room has cream- restaurant, La Barbacane (p325), is sublime.
coloured chairs and tables and polished wooden
floors, but the best seats are in the vine-draped
courtyard beside an old well. Foix 8
5 La Barbacane Gastronomy €€€ 4 Château de PYRENEES & SOUTHWEST FRANCE 29 THE CATHAR TRAIL
(%04 68 71 98 71; www.hoteldelacite.fr; Beauregard Hotel €€
place Auguste-Pierre-Pont, La Cité; 3-course (%05 61 66 66 64; www.chateaubeauregard.net;
lunch menu €38, 6-course dinner menu €85, av de la Résistance, St-Girons; r €100-220, d incl
mains €40-60; h12.30-2pm & 7.30-9.30pm) half-board €180-300; pWs) In St-Girons,
Carcassonne’s finest dining is inside the halfway between St-Gaudens and Foix along the
Hôtel de la Cité at chef Jérôme Ryon’s D117, this grand château is ideal for playing lord
Michelin-starred premises. Opulent carved of the manor: the house is topped by turrets and
woodwork and stained glass set the stage for surrounded by 2.5 hectares of gardens, with
unforgettable dishes utilising some of France’s grand rooms named after writers (some have
finest produce: poached Bouzigues oysters with their bathrooms hidden in the castle’s corner
preserved lemon; Charolais beef with potato towers). There’s also a pool, spa and a great
churros and Perigord sauce; and Languedoc- Gascon restaurant.
grown saffron, white asparagus and black-garlic
risotto with Cévennes goat’s cheese. 4 Hôtel les Remparts Hotel €€
4 La Maison Vieille B&B €€ (%05 61 68 12 15; www.hotelremparts.com; 6
(%06 23 40 65 34; www.la-maison-vieille.com; cours Louis Pons Tarde, Mirepoix; s €68-78, d
€82-98; W) Built into the bastide architecture
8 rue Trivalle; d €90-95, f €105-125; W) As of Mirepoix, this is a smart option, with a mixed-
charming a B&B as you’ll find in Carcassonne, bag of nine rooms that combine modern design
this old mansion’s beautiful rooms include with the building’s centuries-old heritage – a
Barbacane in blues, Cité with exposed brick, patch of exposed stone here, a wonky wooden
Prince Noir with an in-room bath, and vintage- doorway there. The excellent restaurant is one
furnished Dame Carcas. Filled with fig trees, of Mirepoix’s best, serving fine French cuisine
olive trees and lavender, its walled courtyard is (menus €26 to €37) under stone arches and
idyllic for breakfast. It’s handy for the walled city great oak beams.
and Ville Basse; families are warmly welcomed.








325

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WALTER BIBIKOW / GETTY IMAGES ©
Cheat’s

Compostela 30





Follow in the footsteps of pilgrims on this holiest of road trips,
which follows one of the main routes across France en route to
Santiago de Compostela in Spain.

TRIP HIGHLIGHTS
7 DAYS
0 km 725KM / 450 MILES
Le Puy-en-Velay
Puff your way around
this volcanic town in GREAT FOR…
the Massif Central
B
349 km
Cahors Saugues # 1 # # # BEST TIME TO GO
Explore Cahors' shady # l L
old city and May to September, to
Romanesque cathedral # make the most of the
# # #
# 2 # Espalion summer sunshine.
# # #
4
Agen
#
I ESSENTIAL
PHOTO
m K Being dwarfed beside
# Pau Le Puy’s huge statue
# 7 # # #
of the Virgin Mary.
K BEST FOR
CULTURE
St-Jean Pied de Port Conques
Look out from the Wander around the Comparing the
ramparts towards the classic pilgrimage tympanum (decorative
Spanish border church of St-Foy arch) of churches in
725 km 220 km Condom, Cahors and
Moissac.
Cahor 327
Location Caption details to go heres The medieval Pont Valentré

TRIP HIGHLIGHT
Cheat’s
30 Compostela 1 Le Puy-en-Velay
Your journey begins at
the striking town of Le
Puy-en-Velay, where pil-
grims would traditionally
During the Middle Ages, countless pilgrims have earned a blessing
undertook the long trek along the Chemin de at the Unesco-listed
Cathédrale Notre-Dame
St-Jacques, as it’s known in France, in the hope (www.cathedraledupuy.
of earning spiritual salvation and favour in org; rue de la Manécanterie;
h6.30am-7pm). Among the
the afterlife. We’ve chosen to follow one of the Romanesque archways
oldest routes between Le Puy-en-Velay and St- and Byzantine domes
is a statue of St Jacques
Jean Pied de Port: on the way you’ll visit iconic himself, the patron saint
churches, historic cities and a giant iron statue of Compostela pilgrims.
While you’re here, it’s
of the Virgin Mary. well worth visiting Le




# e 0 0 50 miles 100 km Perigueux # \ Brive-la-Gaillarde
#
\
/ · DORDOGNE Argentat # \
A89
Bay of GIRONDE
Biscay # \ Les Eyzies # \
Bordeaux # ^ Libourne # \ # \ Souillac
Lège # \ Sarlat-
la-Canéda
Cap Ferret # \ # \ Biganos
0 ¸ # \
D653
Marmande # \ LOT-ET- Fumel # \ F G Cahors LOT
# \ #
4
Parc Naturel GARONNE 37 #
Régional des / · # \ # \
A62
Landes de Cascogne Villeneuve- 0 ¸ Limogne-en- # \
D653
sur-Lot
Mimizan # \ / · Quercy
/ · # \ Sabres Agen # \
A65
A70
#
5
LANDES 0 ¸ Valence # Cordes
# \ Moissac
# \
D931
# \ #
Condom # TARN-ET- # \
6
# \ Leon Mont-de- GARONNE
Moliets # \ # \ Marsan Gaillac # \
# \ Dax GERS
Auch
/ · # \ # \ Gimont
A65
# \ Bayonne # ] Toulouse
# \ Orthez
/ · / ·
A61
A64
# \ St-Palais
Cambo- # \ / · Castelnaudary
A64
m K # / · # \ \ # Pau Tarbes # \
les-Bains
D933
\
#
# 7
# \
Oloron-
St-Jean # \ St-Jean Ste-Marie / · Cazères
le Vieux
A64
Pied de Port Lourdes # \ # \ Pamiers
F G HAUTES- # \ FG
31
S P A I N PYRÉNÉES St-Girons 31 # \ Foix

Puy’s other ecclesiastical Dame de France (adult/ The last stretch along the D920,
sights. Perched on the top child €4/2; h9am-7pm May- D107 and D141 tracks the course
of an 85m-high volcanic Sep, 10am-5pm Feb-Apr & Oct– of the Lot River, turning briefly
pillar is the Chapelle St- mid-Nov). A creaky spiral onto the D901 to Conques.
Michel d’Aiguilhe (www. staircase winds its way
rochersaintmichel.fr; adult/ to the top of the 22.7m- TRIP HIGHLIGHT
child €3.50/2; h9am-6.30pm tall, 835-tonne statue, 2 Conques
May-Sep, shorter hours rest including the pedestal;
of year, closed mid-Nov–Jan), you can peep out through The next stop for medi-
Le Puy’s oldest chapel portholes for dizzying eval pilgrims would have
(established in the 10th vistas over the town. been Conques – or more
century). Carved directly specifically, the Abbey
into the rock, its cave-like 54 p333 Church of Ste-Foy, built
atmosphere and 12th- The Drive » From Le Puy to to house the holy relics
century frescos create an Conques, it’s a scenic half-day of its namesake saint, a
otherworldly atmosphere. drive of around 220km. Take the young woman martyred
On another nearby twisty D589, passing through during the 4th century.
peak is an enormous the spectacular Gorges de In fact, the relics proved
cast-iron statue of the l’Allier to Saugues. Follow the so popular that the origi-
D989 under the A75 highway,
Virgin Mary, aka Notre then join the D921 to Espalion. nal 8th-century church PYRENEES & SOUTHWEST FRANCE 30 CHEAT’S COMPOSTELA
had to be rebuilt with
extra chapels, a higher
roof and a viewing gal-
lery to accommodate the
Parc Naturel Régional HAUTE- pilgrim traffic.
des Volcans LOIRE Le Puy- It’s a classic example
l
d'Auvergne en-Velay
# \
# \ Langeac # \ # 1 L of a pilgrimage church:
CANTAL 0 ¸ St-Flour # \ # 0¸ # \ # simple and serene, with
D589
N122
D590
\
# \ / · Saugues St-Privat- architectural flourishes
Aurillac 0 ¸ d'Allier kept to a minimum. It’s
0 ¸ D989 # \ St-Chely d'Apcher laid out to a cruciform
D920
Figeac 0 ¸ 0 ¸ Aumont- # \ LOZÈRE / · (cross-shaped) design,
Aubrac
D921
N88
# # D107
3
\ #
# Le Monastier Mende
#
2
#
Conques Espalion # \ # \ # \
\
/ · Chanac Parc National LINK
des Cévennes
N88
# \ # \ YOUR
# \
Villefranche Rodez Florac TRIP
de Rouergue
AVEYRON
# \ Millau # \ v The Pyrenees
# \ GARD Alès For fantastic mountain
Roquefort # \ La Cavalerie
# \ Albi 0 ¸ # \ scenery, veer off 140km
# \ D992 Parc Naturel / · south of Condom at Pau to
A75
Régional des
TARN Grands Causses begin our Pyrenees trip.
Castres | The Lot Valley
# \ Parc Naturel # ]
Régional du Haut- HÉRAULT Montpellier You can do two trips
Languedoc in one by incorporating our
Sète # \ Golfe de trip through the beautiful
# \ Beziers # \ Beauduc Lot Valley as your route from
Montréal # \ Carcassonne Cahors to Figeac.
# \ # \ Narbonne
AUDE M E D I T E R R A N E A N
# \
Limoux Sigean # \ S E A 329

The Drive » The prettiest
CHEMIN DE ST-JACQUES drive to Cahors is along the
D662, which runs for a scenic
Ever since the 9th century, when a hermit named but slow 75km along a dramatic
Pelayo stumbled across the tomb of the Apostle gorge carved out by the Lot
James (brother of John the Evangelist), the Spanish River. A faster alternative is via
the D13 and D653, which takes
town of Santiago de Compostela has been one of about an hour from Figeac.
Christendom’s holiest sites. The pilgrimage to Santiago
de Compostela is traditionally known as the Camino
de Santiago (Chemin de St-Jacques in French; Way of TRIP HIGHLIGHT
St James in English). Early pilgrims were inspired to 4 Cahors
undertake the arduous journey in exchange for fewer Now best known for its
years in purgatory. Today the reward is also more wine, the walled city of
tangible: walkers or horse riders who complete the final Cahors once earned a
100km to Santiago (cyclists the final 200km) qualify lucrative trade from pass-
for a Compostela Certificate, issued on arrival at the ing pilgrims. A prosper-
cathedral. The modern-day GR36 roughly follows the ous (and well-protected)
Via Podensis route from Le Puy. Find out more at www. city, Cahors also has an
webcompostella.com and www.csj.org.uk.
impressive Romanesque
cathedral, the Cathédrale
the traditional layout for town had a large hospice St-Étienne (place de la
pilgrimage churches. Also for accommodating pil- Cathédrale; h7am-6pm).
note the elegant columns, grims (later turned into Consecrated in 1119, the
decorated with scenes Figeac’s hospital, appro- cathedral’s airy nave is
from the life of Ste Foy. priately named Hôpital topped by two huge cu-
Outside, look out for St-Jacques). polas which, at 18m wide,
the tympanum (decora- Though most of are the largest in France.
tive arch) above the main Figeac’s monastic build- Some of the fres-
doorway depicting the ings were torn down cos are from the 14th
PYRENEES & SOUTHWEST FRANCE 30 CHEAT’S COMPOSTELA
Day of Last Judgment – a during the Revolution, a century, but the side
popular theme for Com- few still remain. On place chapels and carvings in
postela churches. Vival, there’s an arcaded the cloister mainly date
13th-century building from the 16th century.
The Drive » Backtrack north On the cathedral’s north
to the Lot River and turn left that was part of Figeac’s façade is another carved
onto the D42. Follow signs to lost abbey; it’s now home
Decazeville, then turn west onto to the tourist office. tympanum, depicting
the D840 to Figeac, just over You can pick up a Christ surrounded by
52km from Conques. leaflet called Les Clefs de fluttering angels and
la Ville (€0.30), which pious saints.
details the town’s other At the top of the old
medieval buildings. Rue city, the Tour du Pape
3 Figeac de Balène and rue Cavi- Jean XXII (3 bd Léon
During the Middle Ages, ale offer rich pickings; Gambetta) was part of a
riverside Figeac was a ma- they’re lined with 14th- 14th-century mansion
jor ecclesiastical centre. and 15th-century houses, belonging to Jacques
All the four monastic many with stone carvings Duèse, who went on to
orders (Franciscans, and open-air galleries on become Pope John XXII.
White Friars, Dominicans the top floor, once used Cahors’ medieval
and Augustinians) were for drying leather. bridge, the Pont Valentré,
established here, and the was part of the town’s
54 p399

330

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Conques Decorative arch on the Abbey Church of Ste-Foy

331

defences during the 14th Valence, crosses the river and & 3-6pm Wed-Mon Apr-Oct,
century. then joins the A62 highway 2-5pm Wed-Sat Nov & Dec,
(toll charge). Take exit 7 onto Feb & Mar, closed Jan) has a
54 p399 the D931, a much quieter road small collection of vin-
that meanders through rural
The Drive » The D653 travels countryside to Condom. tage Armagnac- making
part of the 61km southwest equipment.
towards Moissac, passing
through a delightful landscape 5 p333
of woods, fields and sleepy 6 Condom The Drive » The last stretch
villages. After about 39km, turn Despite its snigger- to St-Jean Pied de Port is an
south on the D2 to connect with inducing name, Condom epic 255km via the A65 and A64
the D16 and D957 into Moissac. actually has nothing highways, so you might like to
to do with contracep- break it up by combining it with
tives – its name dates stops detailed in our tours of the
5 Moissac from Gallo-Roman times, Pyrenees or the Atlantic Coast.
Moissac’s crowning when it was known as
glory is the monumental Condatomagus. TRIP HIGHLIGHT
Abbaye St-Pierre (place Established as a
Durand de Bredon; adult/child Roman port on the 7 St-Jean Pied de
€6.50/4; h9am-7pm Jul & Baïse River, the town’s Port
Aug, 9am-noon & 2-7pm Sep- Flamboyant Gothic Your pilgrimage ends
Jun), one of France’s finest Cathédrale St-Pierre at the walled town of
Romanesque abbeys. (place St-Pierre; h8am-6pm St-Jean Pied de Port, the
Above the south portal is daily) was the main point last stop for Compostela
yet another marvellous of interest for pilgrims. pilgrims on French soil
tympanum: completed in The tent-like cloister, before crossing the Span-
1130, it depicts St John’s covered by a vaulted roof, ish border, 8km away.
vision of the Apocalypse, was designed to offer With its cobbled lanes
with Christ flanked by wet-weather protection and impressive ramparts,
the Apostles, angels and while pilgrims waited to it’s one of southwest
PYRENEES & SOUTHWEST FRANCE 30 CHEAT’S COMPOSTELA
24 awestruck elders. pay their religious dues. France’s most authenti-
Outside, the columns Condom’s other claim cally medieval towns, so
of the cloister are topped to fame is as the home it makes a fitting end to
with carved capitals of Armagnac, a potent your trip. The founda-
depicting foliage, figures brandy brewed since tions of the Église Notre
and biblical scenes. Sad- medieval times as a Dame du Bout du Pont
ly, the Revolution took its medicinal tonic, but now are said to be as old as
toll – almost every face drunk as an after-dinner the town itself, but the
has been smashed. digestif. There are many building itself was rebuilt
Entry to the abbey distilleries around town, in the 17th century.
is via the tourist office but one of the best is While you might be
(%05 63 04 01 85; http://tour Armagnac Ryst-Dupeyron ending your pilgrimage
isme.moissac.fr; 6 place Durand (%05 62 28 08 08; 36 rue Jean here, spare a thought for
de Bredon; h9am-noon & Jaurès; h10am-noon & 2-5pm the real pilgrims – for
2-6pm Apr-Oct, 9am-7pm Jul & Mon-Fri), where you can them, there’s still another
Aug, shorter hours Nov-Mar). taste vintage brandies in a 800km to go before they
turn-of-the-century cellar. reach journey’s end at
54 p333
Nearby, the teeny Santiago de Compostela’s
The Drive » The easiest route Musée de l’Armagnac famous cathedral.
for the 85km trip to Condom (2 rue Jules Ferry; adult/child
travels west on the D813 to €2.20/1.10; h10am-noon 5 p357

332

Eating & Sleeping


Le Pont Napoléon (%05 63 04 01 55; r/ste
Le Puy-en-Velay 1 €62/75; pW) is one of the best places in town
to dig into beautifully presented Tarn produce,
5 Restaurant such as duck nestled in a bed of artichokes or
Tournayre Auvergnat Cuisine €€ scallops surfing an asparagus risotto. Talented
(%04 71 09 58 94; www.restaurant-tournayre. chef Patrick Delaroux runs occasional Saturday
com; 12 rue Chênebouterie; mains €25; hnoon- cooking courses (€55), from Lebanese
1.30pm & 7.30-9.30pm Wed-Sat, 12-1.30pm Sun) food to the art of macaron-making; enquire in
This is one of the best addresses in Le Puy for advance via the website.
food and form. Its atmospheric setting, within a 4 Le Moulin de Moissac Hotel €€
12th- to 16th-century hôtel particulier (historic (%05 63 32 88 88; www.lemoulindemoissac.
town house), sets the tone. But the four-course com; 1 promenade Sancert; d €105-179, ste from
menus will dominate conversation. Savour €164; paW) Housed in a 15th-century grain PYRENEES & SOUTHWEST FRANCE
seared cod or succulent lamb on the great-value mill overlooking the Tarn, this hotel is a riverside
lunchtime menu du marché (€29) or try the treat. Rooms with distressed wallpaper, lovingly
‘Compostelle menu’, featuring scallops and painted furniture and tall French windows
zander with gnocchi (€42).
open onto river-view balconies. The restaurant
4 L’Epicurium Guesthouse €
(%06 24 41 56 10; 5 rue du Bessat; s/d/ tartare and beef in miso soup, among other
tr incl breakfast from €58/64/99; W) This French-Asian fusions. There’s a smart sauna-
gastronomy-obsessed guesthouse in the city’s spa and a romantic Jacuzzi, too.
historic centre is Le Puy-en-Velay’s trendiest (lunch/dinner menu €25.50/43) dishes up duck 30 CHEAT’S COMPOSTELA
address. Its five spacious rooms have been
freshly renovated in minimalist chic: ceilings are Condom 6
high, bathrooms are vast, breakfast involves a 5 La Table des
toothsome range of fancy jams, and you can add Gastronomy €€€
a three-course meal of local specialities to your Cordeliers
stay (€18). Wooden floors are rather creaky, (%05 62 68 43 82; www.latabledescordeliers.
but background din is part of L’Epicurium’s com; 1 rue des Cordeliers; menus €23-75;
old-world charm. hnoon-2pm & 7-9pm Tue-Sat) Condom’s
premier restaurant is run by Michelin-starred
Eric Sampietro, a culinary magician known for
Moissac 5 seasonal ingredients assembled in surprising
combinations. Tasting menus come at a price,
5 Le Table de Nos Fils French €€ but the adjoining bistro offers a three-course
(www.le-pont-napoleon.com; 2 allée Montebello; menu for just €23, with beguiling dishes such
menus €29-45; hnoon-1.30pm & 7.30- as ricotta-and-lobster ravioli. The setting is
10.30pm; v) The restaurant attached to hotel gorgeous: it’s inside a 13th-century chapel,
complete with cloister garden.













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Location Caption details to go here

NICK INMAN / GETTY IMAGES ©
The Pyrenees 31








Traversing hair-raising roads, sky-top passes and snow-dusted
peaks, this trip ventures deep into the unforgettable Pyrenees.
Buckle up – you’re in for a roller coaster of a drive.

TRIP HIGHLIGHTS
7 DAYS
277 km 522 km 522KM / 324 MILES
Cauterets Tarascon-sur-Ariège
Hit the trails at this See prehistoric art in a
chic and historic Pyrenean cavern GREAT FOR…
ski resort
JG

l L BEST TIME TO GO
Oloron # Pau June to September,
Ste-Marie when the road passes
# are open.

# # Foix I ESSENTIAL
# # #
# #
# # 7 St-Girons PHOTO
6
# #
m K Standing on top of the
#
2
#
9
# #
Pic du Midi.
K BEST FOR
OUTDOORS
Vallée d’Aspe Col du Tourmalet Hiking to the Lac de
Escape the outside Marvel at the Gaube near Cauterets.
world in this mountain panorama
wonderfully rural valley from the Pic du Midi
80 km 322 km
Location Caption details to go hereerets The mountain-ringed Lac de Gaube
Caut 335

31 The Pyrenees



They might not have the altitude of the Alps, but the Pyrenees pack a mighty
mountain punch, and if you’re an outdoors-lover, you’ll be in seventh heaven
here. With quiet villages, rustic restaurants, spectacular trails and snowy
mountains galore, the Pyrenees are a wild adventure – just remember to
break in your hiking boots before you arrive.






0 ¸ 0 ¸ # \ Mielan
A65
A64
l L Arros
PYRÉNÉES-
ATLANTIQUES #
# \ Pau
# 1
‚ Pau
Oloron- Castelnau
71 km Ste-Marie # \ Tarbes Magnoac # \
to # \ Pontacq 0 ¸
F G 0 ¸ Betharram # \ A64
32
N134
# \
Col du Arudy Adour
Marie- # \ Lannemezan
Blanque # \
Escot # \ Lourdes # \
Sarrance # \ # \ Bielle Bagnères # \
# \ Aste Beon de Bigorre HAUTES-
# \Bedous Laruns Eaux- Col d'Aubisque # Argelès-Gazost PYRÉNÉES Neste
5
#
# \ Accous # \ Bonnes (1709m) # St-Savin
4
# \ # \ 0¸ # # \ Pic du
c
# \ Cette-Eygun D918 Beaucens R Midi Col d'Aspin
#
Gourette
Lescun # \ # Vallée Col du (2865m) (1489m)
3
# \
Etsaut Pic d'Ayous Tourmalet c
(2288m) d'Ossau 0 ¸ # \
D921
# 7
# \ #
R # \ Cauterets # 0 ¸ # # \ Arreau
Gabas 6 D918 La Mongie
Parc National Luz St- # \
R des Pyrénées Sauveur
Pic du Midi R # \ Col
#
#
Vallée # d'Ossau Balaïtous Pont H St-Lary de Peyresourde
2
d'Aspe (2884m) (3146m) d'Espagne p339 Soulan (1569m)
c Col du # \ c
# \ Vignemale R # \ Gèdre Parc
Somport
(3298m) National des
Pyrénées
# \
# \ Canfranc Gavarnie # \ Cirque de
S P A I N Troumouse
Cirque de # \ R
Gavarnie Mt Perdido
(3355m)
# \

monarchs of Navarre Pau’s tiny old centre
1 Pau and transformed into extends for around 500m
Palm trees might seem a Renaissance château around the Château de
out of place in this moun- in the 16th century. It’s Pau, and boasts many
tainous region, but Pau home to a fine collection attractive medieval and
of Gobelins tapestries and Renaissance buildings.
(rhymes with ‘so’) has
long been famed for its Sevres porcelain.
mild climate. In the 19th
century this elegant town LINK
was a favourite winter- YOUR
ing spot for wealthy Brits TRIP
and Americans, who left
behind many grand villas The Cathar Trail Basque Country
and smart promenades. t w
Its main sight is the From Foix, it’s only This Pyrenean
Château de Pau (%05 59 a short drive from the trip makes a natural
82 38 00; www.chateau-pau. mountains before you extension of our themed
fr; 2 rue du Château; adult/child reach the heart of the trip through the French
Cathar lands and their
Basque country. From
€7/free; h9.30am-12.15pm PYRENEES & SOUTHWEST FRANCE 31 THE PYRENEES
& 1.30-5.45pm, gardens open amazing châteaux. St-Jean Pied de Port,
it’s 71km to Oloron-Ste-
longer hrs), built by the
Marie, or 103km to Pau.
# e 0 0 20 miles 40 km
0 ¸ 0 ¸
A64
A61
HAUTE-GARONNE Garonne
Gratens # \
# \Carbonne
Boulogne-
# \ Ariège
sur-Gesse Aurignac # \ Rieux
# \
# \ Cazères
# \
Montesquieu- Artigat
0 ¸ Salat Volvestre # \
A64
# \ Pamiers # \
# \ St-Gaudens
Montréjeau
St-Bertrand de Prat La Bastide
# \ # \
Comminges St-Lizier Lescure de Serou
# \ 0 ¸ # \
Col de Portet # \ D117
d'Aspet # \
(1069m) St-Girons #
# \ Foix
8
c # F G
c Montgaillard 0¸ 29
Col de Menté Col de # \ D117
Pic de (1349m) la Core
N20
Bacanère (1395m) / ·
(2193m) Pic de c ARIÈGE m K
R Maubermé #
# \ #
9
R (838m) # \ Ussat-
Bagnères Tarascon-
# \ R Mt Valier les-Bains
de Luchon (2838m) sur-Ariège
c Col du Portillon # \ # \
(1320m) Guzet Vicdessos
Neige
R Pic Rouge
R Pica de Bassiès
Mt Rouch D'Estates (2676m) 337
(2858m) (3143m) R

Allow yourself plenty course of its namesake
of time for photo stops, river for a spectacular
especially around pretty 60km. The first part
villages such as Sar- of the valley as far as
rance, Borcé and Etsaut. Laruns is broad, green
Near the quiet village and pastoral, but as you
Central street parking of Bedous, it’s worth travel south the moun-
is mostly payant (charge- detouring up the narrow tains really start to pile
able), but there’s free road to Lescun, a tiny up, before broadening
parking on place de Ver- hamlet perched 5.5km out again near Gabas.
dun and the street lead- above the valley, overlook- Halfway between
ing west of there (av du 18 ing the peak of Pic d’Anie Arudy and Laruns, you
Régiment d’Infanterie). (2504m) and the cluster of can spy on some of the
54 p343 mountains known as the Pyrenees’ last griffon vul-
Cirque de Lescun. tures at the Falaise aux
The Drive » To reach the The valley ends 25km Vautours (Cliff of the Vultures;
Vallée d’Aspe from Pau, take further south near the %05 59 82 65 49; www.falaise-
the N193 to Oloron-Ste-Marie.
The first 30km are uneventful, Col du Somport (1631m), aux-vautours.com; adult/child
but over the next 40km south where a controversial €6/4; h10.30am-12.30pm &
of Oloron the mountain scenery tunnel burrows 8km un- 2-6.30pm Jul & Aug, 2-5.30pm
unfolds in dramatic fashion, with der the Franco-Spanish Apr-Jun & Sep). Once a com-
towering peaks stacking up on border. The return drive mon sight, these majestic
either side of the road. to Pau is just over 80km. birds have been deci-
mated by habitat loss and
The Drive » To reach the
TRIP HIGHLIGHT Vallée d’Ossau from Pau, take hunting; they’re now pro-
2 Vallée d’Aspe the N134 south of town, veering tected by law. Live CCTV
images are beamed from
south onto the D934 towards
PYRENEES & SOUTHWEST FRANCE 31 THE PYRENEES
The westernmost of the Arudy/Laruns. From Pau to their nests to the visitors
Pyrenean valleys makes a Laruns, it’s about 42km. centre in Aste-Béon.
great day trip from Pau. The ski resort of
Framed by mountains Artouste-Fabrèges, 6km
and bisected by the Aspe 3 Vallée d’Ossau east of Gabas, is linked
River, it’s awash with More scenic splendour by cable car to the Petit
classic Pyrenean scenery. awaits in the Vallée Train d’Artouste (%05
The main attraction here d’Ossau, which tracks the 59 05 36 99; www.altiservice.
is soaking up the scenery. com/excursion/train-artouste;
adult/child €25/21; hJun–
mid-Sep), a miniature
THE TRANSHUMANCE mountain railway built
for dam workers in the
If you’re travelling through the Pyrenees between late 1920s. The train is only
May and early June and find yourself stuck behind a open between June and
cattle-shaped traffic jam, there’s a good chance you September; reserve
may have just got caught up in the Transhumance, in ahead and allow four
which shepherds move their flocks from their winter hours for a visit.
pastures up to the high, grassy uplands.
This ancient custom has been a fixture on the The Drive » The D918
Pyrenean calendar for centuries, and several valleys between Laruns and Argelès-
host festivals to mark the occasion. The spectacle Gazost is one of the Pyrenees’
is repeated in October, when the flocks are brought most breathtaking roads,
back down before the winter snows set in. switchbacking over the lofty
Col d’Aubisque. The road feels

338

exposed, but it’s a wonderfully Parc Animalier des Pyré- has clung on to much of
scenic drive. You’ll cover about nées (%05 62 97 91 07; www. its fin-de-siècle charac-
52km, but allow yourself at parc-animalier-pyrenees.com; ter, with a stately spa
least 1½ hours. Once you reach adult/child €18/13; h9.30am- and grand 19th-century
Argelès-Gazost, head further
south for 4km along the D101 to 6pm or 7pm Apr-Oct) does all residences.
St-Savin. the hard work for you. To see the scenery at its
It’s home to a menagerie best, drive through town
of endangered Pyrenean along the D920 (signed
4 St-Savin animals including to the ‘Pont d’Espagne’).
After the hair-raising drive wolves, marmots, lynxes, The road is known locally
over the Col d’Aubisque, giant ravens, vultures, as the Chemins des Cas-
St-Savin makes a welcome racoons, beavers and cades after the waterfalls
refuge. It’s a classic even a few brown bears that crash down the
Pyrenean village, with (the European cousin of mountainside; it’s 6.5km
cobbled lanes, quiet cafes the grizzly bear). of nonstop hairpins, so
and timbered houses set The Drive » Take the D921 take it steady.
around a fountain- filled south of Argelès-Gazost for 6km At the top, you’ll reach
main square. to Pierrefitte-Nestalas. Here, the giant car park at
It’s also home to the road forks; the southwest Pont d’Espagne (cable cars PYRENEES & SOUTHWEST FRANCE 31 THE PYRENEES
one of the Pyrenees’ branch (the D920) climbs up a adult/child €13/10.50). From
most respected hotel- lush, forested valley for another here, a combination
11km to Cauterets.
restaurants, Le Viscos télécabine and télésiege
(%05 62 97 02 28; www.hotel- (adult/child €13/10.50)
leviscos.com; 1 rue Lamarque, TRIP HIGHLIGHT ratchets up the moun-
St-Savin; menus €49-75; 6 Cauterets tainside allowing access
to the area’s trails, in-
h12.30-2.30pm Tue-Sun & For alpine scenery, the
7.30-9.30pm daily; paW), century-old ski resort cluding the popular hike
run by celeb chef Jean- of Cauterets is perhaps to the sapphire-tinted
Pierre St-Martin, known the signature spot in the Lac de Gaube.
for his blend of Basque, Pyrenees. Hemmed in by 54 p343
Breton and Pyrenean fla- mountains and forests, it
vours (as well as his pas-
sion for foie gras). After
dinner, retire to one of the
cosy country rooms and
watch the sun set over the DETOUR:
snowy mountains. CIRQUE DE GAVARNIE
4 p343 Start: 6 Cauterets
The Drive » From St-Savin, For truly mind-blowing mountain scenery, it’s
travel back along the D101 well worth taking a side trip to see the Cirque de
to Argelès-Gazost. You’ll see Gavarnie, a dramatic amphitheatre of mountains
signs to the Parc Animalier des 20km south of Luz-St-Saveur. It’s a return walk of
Pyrénées as you approach town. about two hours from the village, and you’ll need to
bring sturdy footwear.
There’s another spectacular circle of mountains
5 Argelès-Gazost 6.5km to the north, the Cirque de Troumouse.
Spotting wildlife isn’t It’s reached via a hair-raising 8km toll road (€5 per
always easy in the Pyr- vehicle; open April to October). There are no barriers
enees, but thankfully the and the drops are really dizzying, so drive carefully.


339

WHY THIS IS A PHILIPPE COHAT / GETTY IMAGES ©
CLASSIC TRIP
OLIVER BERRY,
WRITER
The craggy peaks of the Pyrenees
are home to some of France’s
ESCUDERO PATRICK / GETTY IMAGES ©
rarest wildlife and most unspoilt
landscapes, and every twist and turn
in the road seems to reveal another
knockout view – one of my personal
favourites is the amazing road over
the Col d’Aubisque, which feels
closer to flying than driving. I love
the traditional way of life here, too.
Visit during the Transhumance to be
treated to one of France’s great rural
spectacles.

Top: Col d’Aubisque
Left: Château de Pau
Right: Cauterets ski resort

The Drive » After staying
overnight in Cauterets,
backtrack to Pierrefitte-Nestalas,
and turn southeast onto the
D921 for 12km to Luz-St-Saveur.
The next stretch on the D918
is another mountain stunner,
FELIX ALAIN / GETTY IMAGES ©
climbing up through Barèges
to the breathtaking Col du
Tourmalet.
TRIP HIGHLIGHT
7 Col du Tourmalet
Even in the pantheon of
Pyrenean road passes, the
Col du Tourmalet com-
mands special respect.
At 2115m, it’s the highest
road pass in the Pyrenees, PYRENEES & SOUTHWEST FRANCE 31 THE PYRENEES
and usually only opens
between June and Octo-
ber. It’s often used as a
punishing mountain stage
in the Tour de France, and
you’ll feel uncomfortably
akin to a motorised ant
as you crawl up towards
the pass.
From the ski resort
of La Mongie (1800m), a
cable car climbs to the
top of the soaring Pic du
Midi (www.picdumidi.com;
adult/child €36/23; h9am-
7pm Jun-Sep, 10am-5.30pm
Oct, Dec-Apr). This high-
altitude observatory
commands otherworldly
views – but it’s often
blanketed in cloud, so
make sure you check the
forecast before you go.
The Drive » The next stage
to Foix is a long one. Follow the
D918 and D935 to Bagnères-de-
Bigorre, then the D938 and D20
to Tournay, a drive of 40km. Just
before Tournay, head west onto
the A64 for 82km. Exit onto the
D117, signed to St-Girons. It’s
another 72km to Foix.

341

ROAD PASSES IN THE PYRENEES

The high passes between the Vallée d’Ossau, the Vallée d’Aspe and the Vallée de
Gaves are often closed during winter. Signs are posted along the approach roads
indicating whether they’re ouvert (open) or fermé (closed). The dates given below
are approximate, and depend on seasonal snowfall.
Col d’Aubisque (1709m, open May-Oct) The D918 links Laruns in the Vallée
d’Ossau with Argèles-Gazost in the Vallée de Gaves. An alternative that’s open year-
round is the D35 between Louvie-Juzon and Nay.
Col de Marie-Blanque (1035m, open most of year) The shortest link between the
Aspe and Ossau valleys is the D294, which corkscrews for 21km between Escot and
Bielle.
Col du Pourtalet (1795m, open most of year) The main crossing into Spain
generally stays open year-round except during exceptional snowfall.
Col du Tourmalet (2115m, open Jun-Oct) Between Barèges and La Mongie, this is
the highest road pass in the Pyrenees. If you’re travelling east to the Pic du Midi (for
example from Cauterets), the only alternative is a long detour north via Lourdes and
Bagnères-de-Bigorre.


trades such as glass blow- provides a handy primer
8 Foix ing, tanning, thatching on the area’s ancient past.
Foix is a quiet mountain and nail making, and even It’s a mix of multimedia
town, but it’s an excellent has its own blacksmith, exhibits and hands-on
baker and cobbler.
base for exploring the outdoor displays, explor-
eastern Pyrenees. Loom- 54 p325, p343 ing everything from pre-
PYRENEES & SOUTHWEST FRANCE 31 THE PYRENEES
ing above town is the historic carving to the art
triple-towered Château de The Drive » Spend the night in of animal-skin tents and
Foix (%05 61 05 10 10; adult/ Foix, then head for Tarascon-sur- ancient spear-throwing.
Ariège, 17km south of Foix on the
About 6.5km further
child €5.60/3.80; h10am- N20. Look out for brown signs to south, the Grotte de Niaux
6pm summer, shorter hours the Parc de la Préhistoire.
rest of year), constructed (www.sites-touristiques-ariege.
in the 10th century as a fr; adult/child €12/8) is home
stronghold for the counts TRIP HIGHLIGHT to the Pyrenees’ most pre-
of Foix. The interior is 9 Tarascon-sur- cious cave paintings. The
rather bare, but there’s a Ariège centrepiece is the Salon
small museum, and the Noir, reached after an
view from the battlements Thousands of years ago, 800m walk through the
is glorious. There’s usually the Pyrenees were home darkness and decorated
at least one daily tour in to thriving communities with bison, horses and
English in summer. of hunter-gatherers, who ibex. To help preserve the
Afterwards, head 4.5km used the area’s caves as delicate paintings, there’s
south to Les Forges de shelters and left behind no artificial light inside;
Pyrène (%05 34 09 30 60; many stunning examples you’re given a torch as you
adult/child €9/6; h10am- of prehistoric art. enter. The cave can only
6.30pm), a fascinating Near Tarascon-sur- be visited with a guide.
‘living museum’ exploring Ariège, the Parc de la From April to September
Ariège folk traditions. Préhistoire (%05 61 05 there’s usually a daily
Spread over 5 hectares, 10 10; adult/child €11/8.30; tour in English at 1.30pm.
it illustrates traditional h10am-7pm, closed Nov-Mar) Bookings advised.

342

Eating & Sleeping




Pau 1 Cauterets 6
5 Les Papilles 5 La Grande
Insolites Bistro €€ Fache Traditional French €€
(%05 59 71 43 79; www.lespapillesinsolites. (%06 08 93 76 30; 5 rue Richelieu; fondue per
blogspot.co.uk; 5 rue Alexander Taylor; lunch/ person €18-23; hnoon-2.30pm & 7-10pm)
dinner menu €22/45, mains around €23; You’re in the mountains, so really you should be
h12.15-2pm & 8-9.30pm Wed-Sat) Run by a eating artery-clogging, cheese-heavy dishes
former Parisian sommelier, this cosy bar-bistro such as tartiflette (potatoes, cheese and bacon
pitches itself between a bistro and a wine shop. baked in a casserole), raclette and fondue. This
It serves beautifully prepared, ingredient-rich family-run restaurant crammed with mountain
dishes like Galician-style octopus with potatoes, memorabilia will oblige.
fennel and olive tapenade, or beef with leeks,
tempura and lemongrass-raspberry reduction. 4 Hôtel du Lion d’Or Hotel €€
Complete the experience with the owner’s (%05 62 92 52 87; www.liondor.eu; 12 rue PYRENEES & SOUTHWEST FRANCE 31 THE PYRENEES
choice of one of the 350-odd wines stacked Richelieu; s €76-86, d €80-162, with half-board s/d
around the shop. Gorgeously Gallic. from €119/144; W) This Heidi-esque hotel oozes
mountain character from every nook and cranny.
4 Hôtel Bristol Hotel €€ In business since 1913, it is deliciously eccentric,
(%05 59 27 72 98; www.hotelbristol-pau. with charming old rooms in polkadot pinks, sunny
com; 3 rue Gambetta; s €55-100, d €80-110, yellows and duck-egg blues, and mountain-
f €120-130; pW) A classic old French hotel themed knick-knacks dotted throughout, from
with surprisingly up-to-date rooms, all wrapped antique sleds to snowshoes. Breakfast includes
up in a fine 19th-century building. Each room homemade honey and jams, and the restaurant
is uniquely designed, with stylish decor, serves hearty Pyrenean cuisine.
bold artwork and elegant furniture; while big
windows fill the rooms with light. Ask for a
mountain-view room with balcony. Breakfast Foix 8
costs €12.
4 Hôtel Eychenne Hotel €€
(%05 61 65 00 04; www.hotel-eychenne.com;
St-Savin 4 11 rue Peyrevidal; s/d €50/60; W) In a good
location in the centre of Foix, Hôtel Eychenne
4 Hôtel des Rochers Hotel €€ has simple, carpeted rooms with wooden
(%05 62 97 09 52; www.lesrochershotel.com; 1 shutters and bathrooms of a vaguely futuristic
place du Castillou; d €60-68, tr €95-100; pW) (circa 1960s) design, with capsule-like showers.
In the idyllic village of St-Savin, 16km south of There’s an easygoing bar downstairs.
Lourdes, this handsomely landscaped hotel
makes a perfect mountain retreat. It’s run by an 4 Hôtel Restaurant Lons Hotel €€
expat English couple, John and Jane, who have (%05 34 09 28 00; www.hotel-lons-foix.com; 6
renovated the rooms in clean, contemporary place Dutilh; r €79-103) One of the better hotels
fashion – insist on one with a mountain view. in Foix is an old-fashioned affair with rambling
Half-board is available. corridors and functional but comfy rooms, some
of which look onto the river, while the others face
Foix’s shady streets. The riverside restaurant
offers good-value half-board (menus €18 to €36).





343

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Les Halles Victor Hugo
Start on place Wilson and head along
rue Victor Hugo to Toulouse’s covered
food market (%05 61 22 76 92; www.
STRETCH marchevictorhugo.fr; place Victor Hugo; h7am-
1.30pm Tue-Sun), where shoppers stock up
YOUR LEGS on cheeses, fresh meat and veg. Look
out for the long, curly saucisse de Tou-
louse, the city’s trademark sausage.
TOULOUSE bump elbows with Toulouse’s foodie
For a memorable local experience,
crowd at the busy restaurants on the
1st floor.
The Walk » Follow rue du Périgord, then head
north along rue du Taur.
Start Place Wilson Basilique St-Sernin
This basilica (place St-Sernin; ambulatory
Finish Quai de la Daurade €2.50; h8.30am-6pm Mon-Sat, to 7.30pm Sun)
is one of France’s finest Romanesque
Distance 3km structures. It’s topped by a soaring spire
and octagonal tower, and inside is the
Duration 3 hours tomb of St Sernin himself, sheltered be-
neath a sumptuous canopy. The basilica
is a key stop along one of the four French
Chemin de St-Jacques pilgrimage routes.
Known to locals as ‘La Ville The Walk » Head south on rue du Taur all the
Rose’ (the pink city), Toulouse way to place du Capitole.
has the same sun-baked air as Place du Capitole
the Languedoc to its southeast. At the end of rue du Taur, you’ll emerge
As France’s fourth-largest city, onto place du Capitole, Toulouse’s grand
main square, where Toulousiens turn
it’s a vibrant place, refreshed out on sunny evenings to sip a coffee or
by waterways and well worth a an early aperitif.
On the eastern side is the 128m-long
stroll for its buzzing markets and façade of the Capitole, a neoclassical
atmospheric old quarter. masterpiece in Toulouse’s characteris-
tic pink, built in the early 1750s. Inside
is the spectacular Salle des Illustres
(Hall of the Illustrious), decorated by
artists including post-impressionist
Henri Martin. To the south are the al-
leys of the Vieux Quartier, the heart of
old Toulouse.
The Walk » Take rue de la Pomme, which runs
Take this walk on Trip southeast to another cafe-lined square, place
St-Georges. Before you reach it, turn right onto rue
} des Arts, then right onto rue de Metz, where you’ll
find the museum entrance.

344

Bd Armand Duportal # ¡ St-Sernin # R Bellegarde Bd de Strasbourg # e 0 0 Allée Jean Jaurès
200 m
Basilique
0.1 miles
R du Périgord

Les Halles
Pl Anatole
#Victor Hugo
France R du Taur R de Rémusat R d'Alsace-Lorraine & L # ¡ Jean
Jaurès
R Valade R Pargaminières Sq Charles Wilson Allées du Président
Franklin Roosevelt
R Deville
Pl
de Gaulle
Place
# ¡
du Capitole # Capitole Bd Lazare Carnot
R Gam betta Pomme Pl Occitane
Pl St-Pierre R de la
Pont R des Blanchers R Malbec R des Arts
St-Pierre Quai de la Pl de la R Temponières Pl St-
# &K
Daurade Bourse R Peyras Georges
R Cujas
Esquirol # Musée des Allées Forain François Verdier
Garonne
Augustins
Hôtel 000 R de # ¡
#
d'Assézat 000 Pl Esquirol R de Metz
000
000 Pl de la Pl St-
la Bourse
000
R de Metz Trinité Étienne
Q de la Daurade
Pont Neuf
Musée des Augustins Bemberg (www.fondation-bemberg.fr; place
Toulouse’s fabulous fine arts museum d’Assézat; adult/child €8/5; h10am-12.30pm &
(www.augustins.org; 21 rue de Metz; adult/child 1.30-6pm Tue-Sun, to 8.30pm Thu). On the 1st
€5/free; h10am-6pm Thu-Mon, to 9pm Wed) floor, velvet-walled rooms are packed
spans the centuries from the Roman with period furniture. The 2nd floor ex-
era through to the early 20th century. hibits artworks spanning impressionist
The highlights are the French rooms, to expressionist schools of thought.
with 18th-to-20th-century masterpieces The Walk » Walk onto rue de Metz and follow
from Delacroix, Ingres, Toulouse- it west to the elegant Pont Neuf, spanning the
Lautrec and Monet. It’s housed within Garonne. Turn right onto quai de la Daurade.
a former Augustinian monastery and Quai de la Daurade
its 14th-century cloister gardens are
richly decorated with sculptures. Toulouse looks best when seen from the
water. From March to October, scenic
The Walk » Turn right onto rue d’Alsace- boat cruises run along the Garonne
Lorraine, then left onto rue Peyras. Follow this
street to place de la Bourse, then turn left along from the quai de la Daurade; in summer,
rue de la Bourse. some boats also travel onto the Canal du
Midi. The two main companies are Les
Hôtel d’Assézat Bateaux Toulousains (www.bateaux-
This area has some of Toulouse’s most toulousains.com) and Toulouses Croisières
elegant hôtels particuliers, private (www.toulouse-croisieres.com). Trips cost
mansions built during the 16th and 17th around €10/5 per adult/child for an
centuries. Among the finest is the Hôtel hour’s cruise.
d’Assézat, built for a woad merchant The Walk » From quai de la Daurade, follow rue
in 1555. It now houses a private art Malbec and rue Gambetta back towards place
collection belonging to the Fondation Wilson.
345

346

Atlantic



Coast











THE ATLANTIC COAST IS WHERE FRANCE
GETS BACK TO NATURE. Much more laid-
back than the Med, this is the place to slow the
pace right down.

Driving through this region is all about quiet
country roads winding through vine-striped
hills, glimpsed views of dead-at-noon villages
and the occasional foray into energetic cities
such as Bordeaux.
The region’s wine is famous worldwide, and
to wash it down you’ll find fresh-from-the-
ocean seafood wherever you go, plus plenty
of regional delicacies including snails in the
north, foie gras further south and, in the
unique Basque regions, chilli-tinted dishes
filled with hints of Spain.


Biarritz Waves weather the coastal houses
SHAUN EGAN / GETTY IMAGES ©

Parc Naturel VIENNE # \
Interrégional du # \ Niort / · # \ Montluçon
A20
Marais Poitevin
# \ La Rochelle DEUX- Guéret / · Vichy
SÈVRES # \ A71 # \
Atlantic Vie nne Aubusson
# \
CHARENTE
CREUSE
Coast # \ Saintes Angoulême Limoges Parc Naturel Clermont- # ]
# \
Ferrand
Royan
HAUTE-
Régional de
# \
Parc Naturel
/ · Cognac # \ Régional Périgord- VIENNE Millevaches en / · PUY-
A89
A10
Gironde Limousin / · Limousin DE-DÔME
A20
Estuary / · Parc Naturel
A89
0 ¸ Égletons # \ Régional
D674
Bay of DORDOGNE des Volcans
Biscay Pauillac # \ F G Périgueux # \#\Boulazac Tulle d'Auvergne
Lacanau- 38 Mussidan F G # \ Brive-la- St-Flour
Gaillarde
35
33
Ocean # \ F G St-Emilion # \ F G CANTAL # \
34
Bordeaux # ^ # \ # \ Sarlat- # \ # \ Martel # \ Aurillac / ·
A75
N140
Arcachon # \ / · GIRONDE La Madeleine la-Canéda / · LOZÈRE
A63
F G
Monflanquin # \ 36 LOT Figeac # \ Le Monastier Mende
Parc Naturel 37 0 ¸ # \ # \
# \ FG D922
Régional des Villeneuve- # \ Cahors Lot
Landes de sur-Lot Parc Naturel # \ Rodez
Cascogne Régional Causses Florac # \
LANDES # \ Sabres Agen # \ de Quercy # \ Najac
/ · / · Moissac # \ Millau
A65
Mont-de- A62 # \
St-Vincent- Marsan TARN-ET- Parc Naturel Régional
# \
Biarritz de-Tyrosse # \ Condom GARONNE Gaillac 0 ¸ des Grands
# \ # \ D992 Causses
Bayonne Tartas
# \ # \ Aire-s-l'Adour TARN
# \ Dax # \ Auch Toulouse Parc Naturel
/ · GERS # ] Régional du
# \ #\ A64 # \ Orthez Haut-Languedoc
# \ Mazamet
Beziers /·
F G St-Palais Lescar # \ # \ F G / · Colombiers # \ A9 # \
38
# \
32
A61
/ ·
# \ St-Jean Pau # \ Tarbes # \ Cazères Carcassonne # \ # \
# \
A64
Pied de Port # \ / · A61 Narbonne
Montréjeau St-Girons AUDE # \
ia Parc National # \ # \ Foix Sigean
# ^ Pamplona des Pyrénées # \
ARIÈGE Quillan
S P A I N Cirque de Gavarnie # \ Perpignan
# ]
Basque Country 7 Days Dordogne’s Fortified Villages 5 Days
w Uncover the unique world of the { Discover the fortified villages and cas-
Basques on this compact trip. (p351) tles of the rural Dordogne. (p385)
Heritage Wine Country 5 Days The Lot Valley 3 Days
x You like wine? You like good food? | Tour the twisting rivers, limestone
You’ll love this trip. (p359) gorges and vintage vineyards of the
Lot. (p393)
Gourmet Dordogne 3 Days
y The Dordogne region is renowned for
Atlantic to Med 10 Days
its gourmet goodies – discover why on } Running between two very different
this trip. (p369) seas, this is the ultimate south-of-
Cave Art of the Vézère Valley 3 Days France trip. (p401)
z Uncover some ancient artworks: the
cave paintings of Cro-Magnon humans.
(p377)
348