Lonely Planet France’s Best Trips (Travel Guide)

# e 0 0 # \ 10 miles Col des c SWITZERLAND & 2-5pm Wed-Mon Oct-May,
20 km
Montets
# \ 10am-5pm Wed-Mon Jun-Sep)
Argentière Mont
Dolent on a triangular islet in
444
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\ #
# Chamonix
3
# \ A40 # 4 stroll the tree-fringed
0 ¸ # # 0¸ w R Aiguille w w lakefront through the
du Midi
2
N205
\ #
D909
4
4444444
4
4
(3842m)
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# \ les-Bains R 444 l’Europe, linked to the
(3326m)
\
#
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4
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0 ¸ 4444444 Dora Baltea R Champ de Mars by
# ]Courmayeur
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the graceful Pont des
SS26
44 Col du Petit # \ and presided over by
44
4
4444444
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# \ La Thuile / · Amours (Lovers’ Bridge)
# #\
VALLE
\
#
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the dour, commanding
c
44
0 ¸
St-Bernard
D1090
musees.agglo-annecy.fr;
# \ 444444 Château d’Annecy (www.
Seez
# \ La Bâthie \ # I T A L Y rampe du Château; adult/child
44
4444
4
€5.20/2.60; h10am-noon
#
\
SAVOIE Tarentaise Les Arcs 444 44 & 2-5pm Wed-Mon Oct-May, ALPS, JURA & RHÔNE VALLEY 17 ALPINE ADvENTuRE
/ · 0 ¸ # \ 10.30am-6pm daily Jun-Sep).
N90
444
D902
Cycling paths encircle
R
# La Plagne 444 44 the lake, passing by several
\
Tignes \ # pretty beaches en route.
444
4444444
\ #
Moûtiers Val d’Isère 4 # # 44 Boats (per hour from
\ #
Col de l’Iseran# €15 to €50) can be hired
#
5
along the canal-side quays,
444
4
444444444
4
# Meribel Parc Bonneval- # and several companies
6
\
National de sur-Arc #
la Vanoise 0 ¸ offer adventure sports.
444
D902
Bessans \ # For details, visit Annecy’s
Les 4 tourist office (%04 50 45 00
Menuires # \ Lanslebourg 33; www.lac-annecy.com; 1 rue
# Val # \
4
44 4444
\
4
444
Thorens
# \ c Col du 4
Mont Cénis
Lac de
Arc St-Michel de
Maurienne Mont LINK
4444
44
Cénis
# \ Modane
c Col du # \ 444 4 YOUR
Télégraphe (1566m) w TRIP
# \ Valloire Chiomonte \ # \ #
#
\
0 ¸ 4 # \ g The Jura
\
#
D902
#
\
w 444 Exilles Discover the gentler
Salbertrand # \ c pleasures of eastern
# Col du Galibier Dora Riparia Colle di Finestre France’s ‘other’ mountains,
# 7
(2178m)
# Oulx
\
# Pragelato three hours north of Annecy.
c
\
Col du
(2057m)0¸ Cesana PIEDMONT i Foothills of the
Lautaret
D1091
# \ Villeneuve- Torinese c Colle do \ # Alps
Le Monêtier- la-Salle # \ Sestroere \ #
R les-Bains \ # c (2035m) Join this nature-lover’s
\
#
Col du jaunt through high-country
Briançon# Montgenèvre
#
8
c Col plateaux and dramatic
canyons, two hours west of
d'Izoard
Briançon.
Parc Parc Naturel
National m K Regional du
des Écrins HAUTES- Queyras
ALPES
# St-Véran 199
#
9
# \

d’Arly, Mont Blanc and at the foot of Western
Beaufortain. Europe’s highest peak,
For spirit-soaring the bone-white dome of
mountain views with Mont Blanc (4810m).
zero effort, board the Climbers with the
Tramway du Mont Blanc necessary skill, experience
Jean Jaurès, courtyard of Centre (%04 50 53 22 75; www.com and stamina flock here for
Bonlieu; h9am-12.30pm & 1.45- pagniedumontblanc.co.uk; rue the incomparable Mont
6pm Mon-Sat year-round, plus de la Gare; return to Bellevue/ Blanc ascent. If you’re
9am-12.30pm & 1.45-6pm Sun Nid d’Aigle €31/36; h5 depar- not quite ready to scale
mid-May–mid-Sep, 9am-12.30pm tures daily mid-Dec–early Apr, ‘the big one’, consider cir-
Sun Apr–early Oct & Dec).
8 daily early-Jun to early Jul & cumnavigating it on the
54 p205 late Aug to mid-Sep), France’s classic six- to 10-day Tour
highest train. Since 1913 du Mont Blanc, which
The Drive » This 70km it has been labouring up takes in majestic glaciers
drive starts with a pretty to Bellevue (1800m) in and peaks in France, Italy
southeastwards run along
Annecy’s lakefront, passing winter and Mont Lachat and Switzerland; local
through the wildlife-rich (2113m) in summer. outfitters organise excur-
wetlands of Bout du Lac on Train buffs will also sions including half-board
the lake’s southern tip before love the narrow-gauge in refuges (mountain
continuing east on the D1508, Mont Blanc Express huts), lift tickets and
then northeast on the D1212 (www.mont-blanc-express. luggage transport. Other
and D909 into St-Gervais.
com), which trundles peak experiences include
along a century-old rail Chamonix’ dozens of
line from St-Gervais-Le- day hikes, the unforget-
2 St-Gervais-les- Fayet station to Martigny table cable-car ascent to
Bains in Switzerland. Aiguille du Midi and the
ALPS, JURA & RHÔNE VALLEY 17 ALPINE ADvENTuRE
Basking in the shadow of 4 p205 train ride (www.compagnie
Mont Blanc, St-Gervais- dumontblanc.fr; 35 place de la
les-Bains is a peaceful The Drive » The 24km route Mer de Glace; adult/child return
Savoyard village, centred to Chamonix follows the D902, €31/26.40; h10am-4.30pm)
on a Baroque church and N205 and D243 into the heart to France’s largest glacier,
old-fashioned carousel. of the Alps. the glistening 200m-deep
Panoramic hiking Mer de Glace (Sea of Ice).
trails in the Bettex, TRIP HIGHLIGHT Chamonix has an
Mont d’Arbois and Mont 3 Chamonix unparalleled menu of
Joly areas head off from adrenaline sports includ-
town. Some of the best An outdoors playground ing rafting, canyoning,
mountain-biking terrain of epic proportions, mountain biking and
is marked between Val Chamonix sits directly paragliding down from
the heights of Planpraz
(2000m) or Aiguille du
Midi (3842m). For details,
TOP TIP: visit the tourist office
WINTER DRIVING (%04 50 53 00 24; www.
chamonix.com; 85 place du
Parts of this route (notably the northern stretches Triangle de l’Amitié; h8.30am-
around Annecy and Chamonix) are accessible to 7pm winter & summer, 9am-
drivers in winter, but the high mountain passes 12.30pm & 2-6pm low season).
further south are strictly off-limits outside summer.
54 p205

200

HIKING CHAMONIX

Chamonix boasts 350km of spectacular high-altitude trails, many reached by cable
car. In June and July there’s enough light to walk until at least 9pm. Here are a few
recommended walks to get you started.
» Lac Blanc From the top of Les Praz l’Index Téléphérique (www.
compagniedumontblanc.co.uk; adult/child one-way from Les Praz €23/19.60; hDec-Apr & Jun-
Sep) or at La Flégère (%04 50 53 22 75; www.compagniedumontblanc.co.uk; 35 rte des Tines;
adult/child from Les Praz €13/11.70; h8.45am-4pm Dec-Apr & Jun-Sep), the line’s midway
point, gentle 1¼- to two-hour trails lead to 2352m Lac Blanc, a turquoise-coloured
lake ensnared by mountains. Stargazers can overnight at the Refuge du Lac Blanc
(%04 50 53 49 14; [email protected]; dm incl half board €55; hmid-Jun–Sep), a
wooden chalet favoured by photographers for its top-of-Europe Mont Blanc views.
» Grand Balcon Sud This easygoing trail skirts the western side of the valley, stays
at around 2000m and commands a terrific view of Mont Blanc. Reach it on foot
from behind Le Brévent’s télécabine station.
» Grand Balcon Nord Routes starting from the Plan de l’Aiguille include the ALPS, JURA & RHÔNE VALLEY 17 ALPINE ADvENTuRE
challenging Grand Balcon Nord, which takes you to the dazzling Mer de Glace, from
where you can walk or take the Montenvers (p200) train down to Chamonix.

The Drive » From Chamonix, The trails weaving into Mouflier, Centre Village;
take the E25/N205 southeast the nearby valleys of Parc h8.30am-7.30pm daily Dec-
17km through the Mont National de la Vanoise are Apr & Jun-Aug, 9am-noon &
Blanc Tunnel into Italy. From a hiker’s dream. For more 2-6pm Mon-Fri low season) for
the Aosta/Courmayeur exit, of a challenge, play among details on family-friendly
continue 31km southwest back the peaks at neighbouring activities, from donkey
towards France along the SS26.
Once across the border, follow La Daille’s two via ferrata trekking to farm visits.
the D1090 and D84 southwest, (fixed-rope routes). The Drive » Prepare for a
then the D902 southeast for a Mountain biking (VTT) dizzying climb as you leave Val
total of 40km into Val d’Isère. is big in Val, especially d’Isère, steeply switchbacking
since the resort hosted 17km up the D902 to Col de
stages of the UCI World l’Iseran.
4 val d’Isère Cup in 2012. Five lifts
This world-renowned, offer cyclists access to 16
end-of-the-valley resort downhill routes, seven 5 Col de l’Iseran
is home to the gargan- endurance runs and two No doubt about it, you’re
tuan Espace Killy (www. cross-country circuits. really far above sea level
espacekilly.com) skiing area, Bike rental is available at here! Indeed, the D902
named after French triple local sport shops. Bureau over Col de l’Iseran
Olympic gold medallist des Guides (%03 77 08 09 (2770m) is the highest
Jean-Claude Killy. Even 76; www.guides-montagne- paved through road in
in July, you can ski the valdisere.com) arranges Europe. Meteorological
Pisaillas Glacier above guided hiking, mountain conditions at the summit
town, though many sum- biking, canyoning and are notoriously fickle –
mer visitors also come to rock-climbing excursions. witness the Tour de France
hike, mountain bike and Visit the tourist office stage that was supposed
enjoy off-season hotel (%04 79 06 06 60; www. to pass through here on
discounts. valdisere.com; place Jacques 8 July 1996 but had to be

201

WHY THIS IS A STUART BLACK / ROBERTHARDING / GETTY IMAGES ©
CLASSIC TRIP
HUGH MCNAUGHTAN,
WRITER
The Alps rival any region of France
for drama, beauty and excitement.
You’ll be hard-pressed to stay on
schedule when passing through
such an intensely photogenic
NEIL EMMERSON / ROBERTHARDING / GETTY IMAGES ©
part of the world: every valley and
hamlet seems to demand you pull
over and give it the attention its
splendour demands. But stay on
track and you’ll leave with memories
of historic fortified towns, glittering
Alpine lakes and towering peaks that
will never fade.

Above: Canal du Thiou and château, Annecy
Left: Val d’Isère ski resort

AIGUILLE DU MIDI

A great broken tooth of rock rearing above glaciers, snowfields and rocky crags, 8km
from the hump of Mont Blanc, the Aiguille du Midi (3842m) is one of Chamonix’ most
distinctive landmarks. If you can handle the height, don’t miss taking a trip up here;
the 360-degree views of the French, Swiss and Italian Alps are breathtaking.
All year round the vertiginous Téléphérique de l’Aiguille du Midi (www.
compagniedumontblanc.co.uk; place de l’Aiguille du Midi; adult/child return to Aiguille du Midi
€58.50/49.70, to Plan de l’Aiguille summer €31/26.40, winter €17/14.50; h1st ascent btwn 7.10am
& 8.30am, last btwn 3.30pm & 5pm), one of the world’s highest cable cars, climbs to
the summit. Halfway up, Plan de l’Aiguille (2317m) is a terrific place to start hikes
or paraglide. In summer you’ll need to obtain a boarding card (marked with the
number of your departing and returning cable car) in addition to a ticket. Bring
warm clothes; even in summer the temperature rarely rises above -10°C up top!
From the Aiguille du Midi, between late June and early September you can
continue for a further 30 minutes of mind-blowing scenery – think suspended
glaciers, spurs, seracs and shimmering ice fields – in the smaller bubbles of the
Télécabine Panoramique Mont Blanc (%04 50 53 22 75; Aiguille du Midi; adult/child return ALPS, JURA & RHÔNE VALLEY 17 ALPINE ADvENTuRE
from Chamonix €80/68; hlast departure from Aiguille du Midi 2.30pm) to Pointe Helbronner
(3466m) on the France–Italy border. From there, the SkyWay Monte Bianco (www.
montebianco.com; Pointe Helbronner; one-way adult/child €36/25.20; h8.30am-4.30pm, earlier
starts in summer) can take you all the way to Courmayeur, in Italy’s Val d’Aosta.


rerouted due to snow and whose rugged snow- hikes, visit Bonneval-sur-
-5°C temperatures! capped peaks, mirrorlike Arc’s tourist office (%04
lakes and vast glaciers 79 05 95 95; www.bonneval-sur-
The Drive » Spellbinding
views unfold as you navigate dominate the landscape arc.com; h9am-noon & 2-6pm
the D902’s hairpin turns 14km between the Tarentaise late-Dec–mid-Apr).
downhill into Bonneval-sur-Arc. and Maurienne Valleys.
This incredible swath of 4 p205
wilderness was designat- The Drive » Cruise 55km
TRIP HIGHLIGHT
ed France’s first national down the Arc River valley on
6 Bonneval-sur-Arc park in 1963, protecting the D902/D1006 through
Heralded as one of the habitat for marmots, Lanslebourg and Modane to St-
Michel de Maurienne, then climb
plus beaux villages chamois and France’s 35km through the ski resort of
de la France (prettiest largest colony of ibexes, Valloire to the ethereal heights
villages in France), this along with 20 pairs of of Col du Galibier.
high mountain hamlet golden eagles and the odd
is filled with stone and bearded vulture.
slate cottages that wear The park is a hiker’s 7 Col du Galibier
their winter preparations heaven between June and The signposts say you’re
proudly (notice all the September. The Grand simply crossing the
woodpiles up on 2nd- Tour de Haute Maurienne departmental border from
floor porches). (www.hautemaurienne. Savoie into the Hautes
Bonneval makes a tran- com), a seven-day hike Alpes. The landscape
quil base for exploring the around the upper reaches says that you’ve entered
530-sq-km Parc National of the valley, takes in na- another universe. Col
de la Vanoise (www. tional-park highlights. For du Galibier (2642m) is
parcnational-vanoise.fr), information on local day

203

Briançon’s old town Pick up maps and info
is a late-medieval time at the Maison du Parc
capsule, its winding (%04 92 21 42 15; www.
cobbled lanes punctu- ecrins-parcnational.fr; place
ated by shuttered, du Médecin Général Blanchard;
candy-coloured town h10.30am-6.30pm Jul &
a staggeringly beauti- houses and shops sell- Aug, 2-6pm Mon-Fri Sep-Jun).
ful Alpine pass, whose ing whistling marmots. For guided treks, glacier
forbidding remoteness The steep main street, traverses, mountain bik-
may make you feel like Grande Gargouille, links ing, rafting, kayaking,
the last living person on two town gates, Porte canyoning and via fer-
earth. To the west lies the de Pignerol and Porte rate, check with Bureau
Parc National des Écrins, d’Embrun. Crowning the des Guides et Accompa-
a 918-sq-km expanse of old city is the massive gnateurs (%04 92 20 15 73;
high mountain wilder- Fort du Château. Daily www.guides-briancon.fr; 24
ness. Stop and savour the guided walks are run by
top-of-the-world feeling Service du Patrimoine rue Centrale; h10am-noon
& 3-7pm Mon-Fri, 3-7pm Sat &
before returning to the
squiggling ribbon of (%04 92 20 29 49; www.ville- 10am-1pm Sun summer, 4-7pm
rest of year).
briancon.fr; Porte de Pignerol,
roadway below.
Cité Vauban; tours adult/child
The Drive » Despite the €6.20/4.60; h10am-noon & The Drive » From Briançon
resume your way southeast
distance on the signpost (35km), 2-5.30pm Tue-Fri & Sun Sep- along the D902, then via the
the incredibly twisty and scenic Jun, or Mon-Sat in Jul & Aug). D947 and D5 to your final stop,
descent into Briançon on the Briançon’s biggest St-Véran. Only 28km as the crow
D902 and D1091 feels longer; flies, this last section of tightly
stupendous views will stop you drawcard is its Unesco- folded mountain road works out
in your tracks every couple listed ensemble of 17th- to 55km, and around 1¾ hours
of minutes. Enjoy every horn- and early-18th-century behind the wheel.
ALPS, JURA & RHÔNE VALLEY 17 ALPINE ADvENTuRE
tooting, head-spinning, glacier- structures designed by
gawping moment, with views of pioneering French mili-
thundering falls, sheer cliffs and tary architect Vauban,
jagged peaks razoring above including the old town’s 9 St-véran
thick larch forests. What more fitting place
signature star-shaped
fortifications, the coral- to wind up a tour of
pink Collégiale Notre the roof of Europe than
8 Briançon Dame et St Nicolas, sev- France’s highest village?
Perched astride a high eral nearby forts and the Nestled a cool 2040m
rocky outcrop, the fairy- Pont d’Asfeld bridge. above sea level, in the
tale walled city of Brian- There are outstand- midst of the Parc Naturel
çon affords views of the ing hiking opportuni- Régional du Queyras,
snowcapped Écrins peaks ties to be found in the St-Véran is listed as one
from almost every corner. mountains of nearby of France’s most beautiful
The centre’s Italian ambi- Parc National des Écrins villages and offers serene
ence is no coincidence; (www.ecrins-parcnational.fr). hiking in all directions.
Italy is just 20km away.







204

Eating & Sleeping




Annecy 1 Chamonix 3
5 Le Denti French €€ 5 Les Vieilles Luges French €€
(%04 50 64 21 17; 25bis av de Loverchy; lunch (%06 84 42 37 00; www.lesvieillesluges.com;
menus €22, other menus €32-42; hnoon- Les Houches; menus €20-35; hlunch daily
1.15pm Thu-Mon, 7.30-9.15pm Mon & Thu-Sat) winter, lunch & dinner by reservation summer,
A few blocks off the beaten track but worth min 25 people) This impossibly atmospheric
seeking out, this unassuming restaurant serves 250-year-old farmhouse can only be reached
traditional French cuisine – their speciality is on skis or by a scenic 20-minute hike from the
fish – prepared so the taste of the super-fresh Maison Neuve chairlift. Hunker under low wood
ingredients shines through. The menu changes beams to savour dishes such as grand-mère’s
twice a month according to the seasonal bœuf bourguignon and creamy farçon (potato
produce available in the markets. bake prepared with prunes, bacon and cream),
washed down with vin chaud (mulled wine)
4 Hôtel Central Boutique Hotel € warmed over a wood fire. Magic. ALPS, JURA & RHÔNE VALLEY 17 ALPINE ADvENTuRE
(%04 50 45 05 37; www.hotelcentralannecy.
com; 6bis rue Royale; d/tr €70/80; pW) 4 Auberge du Manoir Hotel €€
Forget the prosaic name – this splendid (%04 50 53 10 77; www.aubergedumanoir.
canal-side hotel, occupying a late 17th-century com; 8 rte du Bouchet; s/d/q €133/154/225;
building in the pedestrianised heart of the hclosed 2 weeks late Apr & 2 months autumn;
city, provides comfortably the most eccentric W) This beautifully converted farmhouse,
and visually entertaining digs in Annecy. ablaze with geraniums in summer, offers 18
Choose the Chambre Couture (complete with pine-panelled rooms that are quaint but never
dressmaker’s doll and antique sewing machine), cloying, pristine mountain views, an outdoor hot
the psychedelic Chambre Coco, the Chambre tub, a sauna and a bar whose open fire keeps
Orientale or any of the other 11 rooms: they’re things cosy. It’s family-owned, and prices fall
all delightful. during the week and in low season.

St-Gervais-les-Bains 2 Bonneval-sur-Arc 6
4 Les Dômes 4 Auberge d’Oul B&B €
de Miage Campground € (%04 79 05 87 99; www.auberge-oul.com;
CaptionCaptionCaptionCaption
(%04 50 93 45 96; www.camping-mont-blanc. 73480 Bonneval-sur-Arc; dm/d/q incl breakfast
com; 197 rte des Contamines, St-Gervais; €26/58/108, incl half-board €37/80/148) Smack
unpowered sites €21.20-26.60, powered sites on the village square, this flowery-balconied,
€25.80-31.20; hmid-May–mid-Sep; W) Mont slate-walled gîte (self-catering cottage) has one
Blanc is your wake-up call at this well-equipped seven-person dorm and three spotless, rustic
campground, beautifully set in wooded hills, rooms. The 2nd floor is a more private chambre
900m above sea level. The first-rate facilities d’hôte (B&B), and the entire auberge opens from
include 150 pitches, a restaurant, volleyball mid-June to mid-September, and mid-December
courts, table tennis and other diversions. to the end of April. The half-board option offers
great-value, home-cooked mountain meals.








205

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Location Caption details to go here

Foothills of the
BUENA VISTA IMAGES / GETTY IMAGES ©

Alps 18





This exhilarating outdoor adventure links two gorgeous, wild
landscapes – the high green meadows and peaks of the Vercors,
and the rugged canyon country of the Alpes de Haute-Provence.

TRIP HIGHLIGHTS

l L # 1 # # # 0 km 6 DAYS
475KM / 295 MILES
Lans-en-Vercors
Escape to green meadows, GREAT FOR…
limestone peaks and
JG
breathtaking gorges
# # #
#
4
Die #
BEST TIME TO GO
June and September,
110 km for good weather
without peak summer
Chichilianne
A hiker's favourite since crowds.
1492, below awe-inspiring
Mont Aiguille ESSENTIAL
I PHOTO
Sisteron # The dizzying view of
the Gorges du Verdon
from Belvédère de
l’Escale.
320 km
Moustiers-Ste-Marie BEST FAMILY
Lavender-scented # 7 # # # K HIKE
gateway to Europe's
Grand Canyon # The high-country loop
m K
Gorges du Verdon from La Molière, near
Lans-en-Vercors.
Location Caption details to go hereges du Verdon Paddlers on the Verdon River
Gor 207

l ]
L
Grenoble
#
\ # 1
18 Foothills of the St-Julien- # 0 ¸ # #Lans-en- \ #
Vercors
D531
Alps
#
2
# Gorges de
en-Vercors
\
St-Martin # la Bourne 0 ¸
\
A480
\ # en-Vercors 0 ¸ Parc Naturel
In the transition zone between the Alps and Provence St-Agnan- D103 du Vercors
Régional
lie some of France’s most magnificent and least en-Vercors # \ Grotte de
#
explored landscapes. Extending from the Vercors 0 ¸ 3 Mont
#la Luire
4 0¸
plateau to the Verdon River, this trip starts in poppy- D518 R Aiguille D526 \ #
# #
Chichilianne
\ #
strewn pastures where cowbells jingle beneath # Chamaloc 0 ¸
\
D7
limestone peaks and ends among the lavender fields Die \ # \ # Treschenu-
and arid gorges of Haute-Provence. Along the way, 0 ¸ # \ Creyers
D539
there’s plenty of outdoorsy excitement for the entire Châtillon-
en-Diois
family. DRÔME
La Motte-
Chalancon
\ #
of Lans-en-Vercors via Au- \ #
TRIP HIGHLIGHT trans, following the D106
1 Lans-en-Vercors and a partly unpaved for-
Lans-en-Vercors (1020m) est road. Alternatively, Les # \
Accompagnateurs Nature
is idyllically set among the
sloping pastures, plateaux et Patrimoine (%04 76 95
08 38; www.accompagnateur-
and chiselled limestone vercors.com;) offers guided
peaks of the 1750-sq-km walks (adult/child €27/20) Mont Serein
#
#
\
\
(1445m)
Parc Naturel Régional du throughout the Vercors. R Mont Ventoux
Vercors, 28km southwest R (1912m)
of Grenoble. With stun- 54 p213 0 ¸
D164
ning vistas and wildlife in- The Drive » Follow the # Sault 0¸
\
D950
cluding marmots, ibex and D531 southwest from Lans-en-
chamois, the park draws Vercors, descending to enter F G # \
families seeking low-key the magnificent Gorges de la 22 Banon
outdoor adventure. Hikers Bourne after about 10km. 0 ¸ VAUCLUSE
D943
of any age will enjoy the # \
easy, supremely scenic c
7km high-country loop 2 Gorges de la
#
\
from La Molière to Pas Bourne Apt
Parc
de Bellecombe, with its Cliff walls up to 600m Plateau des R Naturel
Régional
built-in lunch stop at Gîte high crowd around the Claparèdes Mourre du Luberon
Négre
d’Alpage de la Molière road through these deep (1125m)
(p213). To reach the and dramatic gorges, cut # Cadenet
\
trailhead, go 20km north / ·
N96
# Pertuis # \
\
Durance
208 # \ w

# e 0 10 miles
# ] 0 20 km by the eponymous Bourne
ISÈRE Rochetaillée Col du w as it rushes off the
Romanche \ # R Alpe d'Huez (2645m) Vercors plateau. Watch
Galibier
for narrow turnouts
(1860m)
alongside the roadway
c
# \ c
Le Peage Glacier du Col du where you can pull off
de Vizille Les Deux \ # R Mont du Lautaret and admire the views.
Barre des FG
Alpes Lans (2057m) 17
(3425m)
R Écrins # The Drive » Near the end
\
c
\ # (4102m) of the gorges, bear left on the
La Berarde
# Entraigues c D103 and proceed 20km south
\
through the pretty mountain
villages of St-Julien-en-Vercors
/ · and St-Martin-en-Vercors. At St-
D66
# \ Parc Agnan-en-Vercors continue 5km
Mens # Pellafol National south on the D518 to the Grotte
\
# Défilé de des Écrins de la Luire.
5
#
la Souloise
/ · \ # HAUTES-
D17
St-Étienne- / · ALPES 3 Grottes de la
N85
en-Dévoluy
0 ¸ Luire ALPS, JURA & RHÔNE VALLEY 18 FOOTHILLS OF THE ALPS
D937
Embrun # \ The Vercors was a hotbed
# Gap of the French Resist-
# Montmaur \
\
0 ¸ Lac de Serre- ance in WWII. This cave
D994
Ponçon (www.grottedelaluire.com; Le
passage, 26420 Saint Agnan en
Durance
Vercors; adult/child €8.50/6;
# \ Serres St-Jean \ #
h17 Dec-13 Nov) outside
the town of St-Agnan-en-
# \ Eyguians 0 ¸ Vercors served as a field
D900
Buëch
PROVENCE hospital for Resistance
0 ¸ St-Geniez fighters for five days in
D1075
/ · # \ Col de July 1944 before German
troops raided it, killing
D3
Font-Belle c
Sisteron # # (1708m) Barles # La Javie c
6
\ #
\
#
\
Thoard # \ ALPES LINK
DE HAUTE-PROVENCE
Château- YOUR
# Arnoux # Digne-
\
\
St-Auban Bléone les-Bains TRIP
Réserve
Ganagobie /· de Haute-Provence h
# \ Prieure de \ # # \ Les Mées Géologique Alpine Adventure
A51
(660m) R Head northeast from
D953
Lurs # \ 0 ¸ Barrème Lans-en-Vercors to explore
\ # # \
Forcalquier Brunet
# \ Oraison ‚ France’s most awe-inspiring
\ # Moustiers- peaks.
Puimoisson \ # #\ Ste-Marie
# # Collet Verdon Lavender Route
\ # 7
# Valensole Barris m
\
(1459m) Wander the
D952
‚
Lac de
Parc Naturel Ste-Croix c R 0¸ purple-fringed back roads
Verdon du Verdon d'Illoire # m K of Provence, west of
Régional
Col
#
8
\
#
(964m) Gorges Moustiers-Ste-Marie.
# Quinson
\
# \ du Verdon
St-Paul-
lès-Durance # Montmeyan
\
209
# \

many patients on-site Pas de l’Essaure and Pas The Drive » Follow the D537
and taking the rest to de l’Aiguille (look for the and D937 south through tiny
Grenoble to be shot or monument to Resistance St-Disdier, enjoying stunning
deported. Memorial fighters who battled the views of the Massif de Dévoluy’s
plaques mark the site, Nazis at these high alti- austere rocky face, punctuated
and lantern-lit tours are tudes). Lower-elevation by the pencil-shaped spire of the
11th-century Mère Église. Zigzag
offered in summer. walks in surrounding south along the D117 (5km
valleys include the
The Drive » The D518 travels southeast), D17 (7km southwest)
30km south to Die, culminating themed, family-oriented and D937 (16km south over Col
in a switchbacking descent 5km walk, Sentier des de Festre). From here, follow the
from Col de Rousset. The D93 Artisans de la Terre. D994, D1075 and D4075 south
and D539 continue southeast 54km into Sisteron.
14km through sun-drenched 4 p213
farmland to Châtillon-en-Diois, The Drive » Follow the D7
a good lunch stop. The final and D526 east 17km to Mens, 6 Sisteron
31km stretch along the D120 then cruise another 19km east Perched on a promontory
and D7 snakes over Col de on the D66 through hayfields
Menée (1457m) to Chichilianne, backed by the Dévoluy massif’s high above the Durance
affording spellbinding views of sawtooth ridgeline. Wind 8km River, Sisteron’s stun-
Mont Aiguille en route. south on the D66A and D537, ner is its citadel (www.
descending to the Souloise citadelledesisteron.fr; €6.40;
River. Just before the bridge, h9am-6pm Apr-Oct, to 7pm Jul
TRIP HIGHLIGHT
turn left onto the D217, following & Aug). For centuries this
4 Chichilianne signs for ‘Sources des Gillardes’ imposing fortress guarded
Its lovely hayfields and parking at the trailhead. the strategic narrow pas-
strewn with red poppies sage between Dauphiné
in late spring, Chichil- and Provence – though
ianne has deep roots in 5 Défilé de la Napoléon did somehow
mountaineering history, Souloise sneak past here with 1200
ALPS, JURA & RHÔNE VALLEY 18 FOOTHILLS OF THE ALPS
dating back to 1492 when Forming the border be- soldiers after escaping
Antoine Deville scaled tween the départements Elba in 1815! Today it still
massive cube-shaped of Isère and Hautes-Alpes, commands bird’s-eye
Mont Aiguille by order of the sheer-faced Souloise perspectives of Sisteron’s
King Charles VIII (accom- Gorge is an idyllic spot to medieval streets, the eye-
panied by stonemasons stretch your legs. From catching stratified rock
and master carpenters the parking area, an easy face Rocher de Baume
who helped build ladders hike (200m each way) and the Durance Valley
and attach ropes!). Long leads to the Sources beyond. Architectural
nicknamed the ‘inacces- des Gillardes, France’s highlights include a 13th-
sible mountain’, and second-largest natural century chemin de ronde
celebrated by writers such spring. Alternatively, (parapet walk) and a pow-
as Rabelais, Mont Aiguille continue downriver on der magazine designed by
continues to capture the the delightful Canyon de French military architect
imagination of all who l’Infernet trail, through Vauban. On summer eve-
venture near. fragrant evergreen forest nings the hilltop comes
Superb high-country sandwiched between grey alive with open-air dance
hikes around Chichil- and orange rock walls. and classical-music con-
ianne include the Sentier About 1km along, cross a certs during the Festival
des Charenches up Mont bridge and loop back up des Nuits de la Citadelle
Aiguille’s southern flanks, the opposite bank to the (www.nuitsdelacitadelle.fr).
and the six-hour loop to parking area. 5 p213
the Vercors plateau via

210

GUIZIOU FRANCK / HEMIS.FR / GETTY IMAGES ©






























Chichilianne Mont Aiguille towers over the village
prairies. Winding streets
The Drive » Zip 39km along TRIP HIGHLIGHT climb among tile-roofed
the A51 to Oraison. Take the D4 houses, connected by
(5km), D907 (10km) and then 7 Moustiers-Ste- arched stone bridges
the D108 (4km) southeast, Marie spanning the picturesque
climbing through Brunet to Nicknamed Étoile
the Valensole plateau. Cruise de Provence (Star of creek (Le Riou) that
7km east through lavender courses through the vil-
fields on the D8, take the D953 Provence), enchanting lage centre.
(4km) into Puimoisson (passing Moustiers-Ste-Marie A 227m-long chain
roadside lavender stand Maison straddles the base of bearing a shining gold
du Lavandin), and wind 14km towering limestone star stretches high above
into your next stop, Moustiers- cliffs – the beginning of the village, legendar-
Ste-Marie, along the D56 and the Alps and the end of ily placed there by the
the D952. Haute-Provence’s rolling Knight of Blacas upon


211

DRIVING THE GORGES DU VERDON

This spine-tingling drive is one of France’s classic road trips. A complete circuit of
the Gorges from Moustiers-Ste-Marie involves 140km (about four hours without
stops) of relentless hairpin turns on precarious rim-side roads, with spectacular
scenery around every bend. The only village en route is La Palud-sur-Verdon
(930m). Expect slow traffic and scant opportunities to overtake in summer.
From Moustiers, aim first for the Route des Crêtes (D952 & D23; hclosed 15
Nov-15 Mar), a 23km-long loop with 14 lookouts along the northern rim – ensure you
drive the loop clockwise: there’s a one-way portion midway. En route, the most
thrilling view is from Belvédère de l’Escale, an excellent place to spot vultures.
After rejoining the D952, the road corkscrews eastward, past Point Sublime, which
overlooks serrated rock formations dropping to the river.
Return towards Moustiers via the Corniche Sublime (D955 to D90, D71 and
D19), a heart-palpitating route along the southern rim, passing landmarks including
the Balcons de la Mescla (Mescla Terraces) and Pont de l’Artuby, Europe’s
highest bridge.


his safe return from the trails traverse untamed
Crusades. Below the 8 Gorges du Verdon countryside between
star, the 14th-century Dubbed the Grand Castellane and Moust-
Chapelle Notre Dame Canyon of Europe, iers, including the classic
de Beauvoir (guided tours the breathtaking Sentier Martel, which
adult/child €3/free) clings Gorges du Verdon slice uses occasional ladders
to the cliff ledge like an 25km through Haute- and tunnels to navigate
eagle’s nest. A steep trail Provence’s limestone pla- 14km of riverbanks and
climbs beside a waterfall teau. The narrow canyon ledges. For details on 28
ALPS, JURA & RHÔNE VALLEY 18 FOOTHILLS OF THE ALPS
to the chapel, passing 14 bottom, carved by the walks, pick up the excel-
stations of the cross. On Verdon’s emerald-green lent English-language
8 September, a 5am Mass waters, is only 8m to 90m Canyon du Verdon
celebrates the Virgin wide; its steep, multi- (€4.70) at Moustiers’
Mary’s nativity, followed hued walls, home to grif- tourist office (%04 92
by flutes, drums and fon vultures, rise as high 74 67 84; www.moustiers.
breakfast on the square. eu; h9.30am-7pm Mon-Fri,
as 700m – twice as tall
54 p213 as the Eiffel Tower! One 9.30am-12.30pm & 2-7pm Sat
of France’s most scenic & Sun Jul & Aug, 10am-noon &
The Drive » The trip drives takes in stagger- 2-6pm April-June & Sep, closes
to Gorges du Verdon is a ing panoramas from the around 5pm rest of year; W).
classic. Follow the D952 19km Rafting operators include
southeast to La Palud-sur- vertigo-inducing cliff-side Guides pour l’Aventure
Verdon, then the D23, winding roads on either side.
from 9km above the western The canyon floors are (www.guidesaventure.com)
flank of the Verdon to your final accessible only by foot and Aboard Rafting (www.
destination. or raft. Dozens of blazed rafting-verdon.com).








212

Eating & Sleeping




Lans-en-Vercors 1 Sisteron 6
5 Gîte d’Alpage 5 La Magnanerie Gastronomic €€
de la Molière French € (%04 92 62 60 11; www.la-magnanerie.net; N85,
(%06 09 38 42 42; gitedelamoliere. Aubignosc; menus lunch €22-29, dinner €32-55;
aufilduvercors.org; 41 impasse des Frênes, Les hlunch 12.15-1.30pm, dinner 7.15-9.30pm
Eperouses, Autrans; menus €15-28; hlunch Tue-Sun; W) A stylish, if starchy, restaurant and
daily Jun-Sep) High above Lans-en-Vercors, this hotel on the road 10km south of Sisteron. Chef
welcoming trail-side refuge with incomparable Stéphan Paroche is known for his colourful,
views serves simple mountain fare (savoury creative cooking – edible flowers and micro-
vegetable tarts, salad with smoked trout, herbs adorn exquisite plates of fine French
and raspberry, blueberry and walnut pies) on food. Upstairs accommodation (€78 to €98) is
umbrella-shaded picnic tables astride an Alpine equally playful: some rooms have comic-book
meadow. The picnic hampers, only €12 per murals; others are styled after classic cinematic
adult, are a great option for ramblers. scenes. Reservations essential.
4 À la Crécia B&B € ALPS, JURA & RHÔNE VALLEY 18 FOOTHILLS OF THE ALPS
(%04 76 95 46 98; www.gite-en-vercors.com; Moustiers-Ste-Marie 7
436 Chemin des Cléments, Les Cléments; s/d/
tr/q incl breakfast €58/63/78/93) Renovated 5 La Grignotière Provencal €
by Véronique and Pascal, this eco-conscious (%04 92 74 69 12; rte de Ste-Anne; mains €6-15;
16th-century farm, home to goats, pigs and h11.30am-10pm May-Sep, to 6pm Feb–mid-May)
poultry, has five large guest rooms panelled in Hidden behind the pink facade of the Musée
spruce and pine. Dinner is a feast of farm-fresh de la Faïence is this utterly gorgeous, blissfully
produce, with wine included (menus €19). You’ll peaceful garden restaurant. Tables sit between
find it 1.8km south of Lans-en-Vercors’ church, olive trees and the colourful, eye-catching decor
on the far outskirts of the village. – including the handmade glassware – is the
handiwork of talented, dynamic owner Sandrine.
Cuisine is ‘picnic chic’, meaning lots of creative
Chichilianne 4 salads, tapenades, quiches and so on.
4 Au Gai Soleil 4 Ferme du Petit Ségriès Farmstay €
de Mont-Aiguille Hotel € (%04 92 74 68 83; www.chambre-hote-verdon.
(%04 76 34 41 71; www.hotelgaisoleil.com; d/ com; d incl breakfast €74-84; W) Friendly
superior €48/73; Ws) At the foot of striking hosts Sylvie and Noël offer five colourful, airy
Mont Aiguille, this simple inn has fabulous rooms in their rambling farmhouse, 5km west
views, superb access to local hiking routes, of Moustiers on the D952 to Riez. Family-style
a rustic country restaurant, a spa and two tables d’hôte (€30 with wine, served daily
massage rooms for treating weary muscles at except on Wednesday and Sunday) are served
trail’s end. at a massive chestnut table, or outside beneath
a foliage-covered pergola in summer. Bikes are
available for hire (from €15 per day).









213

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
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Location Caption details to go here

#
GAELFPHOTO / SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Beaujolais


Villages 19





With its lush green hills, cute villages and well-tended vineyards,
Beaujolais is a landscape painting come to life. Explore its quaint
localities, taste some excellent wines and enjoy the hush.

TRIP HIGHLIGHTS
m K 2 DAYS

# # #
95 km # 95KM / 59 MILES
12
# # #
Roche de Solutré # 90 km GREAT FOR…
11
An exceptional
panorama and a site Fuissé
rich in history A charming village BH
with prestigious
white wines
BEST TIME TO GO
April to June,
September and
October for a
patchwork of colours.
# # #
# 35 km I ESSENTIAL
4
PHOTO
Mont Brouilly Enjoy a panorama
Mesmerising views of
the Beaujolais region over the entire region
from Mont Brouilly.
#
# # #
3
K BEST FOR
FOODIES
Vaux-en-Beaujolais
A super-scenic #l L Vaux-en-Beaujolais
hilltop village prides itself on its
25 km Villefranche- Michelin-starred
sur-Saône restaurant.
B Location Caption details to go hereeaujolais Church surrounded by vineyards 215

# e 0 0 2.5 miles
5 km
19 Beaujolais
Villages



Ah, Beaujolais, where the unhurried life is
complemented by rolling vineyards, beguiling villages,
old churches, splendid estates and country roads
that twist into the hills. Once you’ve left Villefranche-
sur-Saône, a rural paradise awaits and a sense of
escapism becomes tangible. Be sure to factor in
plenty of time for wine tasting.








#
# Beaujeu
5
The Drive » At a roundabout
1 Villefranche-sur- about 800m south of the 0 ¸
D337
Saône Collégiale, look out for the
brown sign to ‘Route des Vins du
Your trip begins with a Beaujolais’. Pass through Gleizé,
stroll along lively rue Na- Lacenas, Denicé, St-Julien and Mont Brouilly#
#
4
tionale, where you’ll find Blacé before reaching Salles-
most of the shops and the Arbuissonas-en-Beaujolais.
Gothic Collégiale Notre- Count on a good half-hour to
cover the 16km trip.
Dame des Marais, which RHÔNE # \
boasts an elegant facade
and a soaring spire. An 2 Salles- 0 ¸
excellent starting point Vaux-en- D133
for oenophiles, the tour- Arbuissonnas-en- Beaujolais # #
\ 3
ist office (%04 74 07 27 40; Beaujolais #
www.villefranche-beaujolais.fr; As you pass through / ·
D35
#
96 rue de la Sous-Préfecture; Salles-Arbuissonnas, #
2
h9am-6pm Mon-Sat May-Sep, keep an eye out for the Salles-
10am-5pm Mon-Sat Oct-Apr) superb 10th-century Arbuissonnas
houses the Espace des priory (%04 74 07 31 94; rue en Beaujolais
Vins du Beaujolais, where du Chapitre; museum adult/
you’ll have the chance to child €4.50/free; hmuseum
learn about and sample 10am-12.30pm & 2-5pm Apr-
the Beaujolais’ 12 AOCs Oct) and the adjoining
(Appellations d’Origine Roman cloister.
Contrôlée).
216

80 km to
The Drive » Continue along
F G
m K Mâcon # (6.5km).
15
the D35 to Vaux-en-Beaujolais
‚
\ #
12 # # Roche # \ \
de Solutré
/ · TRIP HIGHLIGHT
D54
/ · Fuissé 3 Vaux-en-
D31
#
11
#
0 ¸ Beaujolais
D209
The village of Vaux-en-
Beaujolais emerges like a
hamlet in a fairy tale. You
0 ¸ # / · can’t but be dazzled by the
# #
\ 10
D31
D17E
\ #
Juliénas 9 # # St-Amour fabulous backdrop –
Bellevue it’s perched on a rocky
/ · La Chapelle- spur ensnared by a sea
D68
de-Guinchay of vineyards. Don’t leave
# \
Vaux without enjoying the
# Moulin à Vent fruity aroma of Beaujolais-
#
8
Fleurie # Romanèche- Villages (the local appel- ALPS, JURA & RHÔNE VALLEY 19 BEAujOLAIS VILLAGES
# 7
# \ la tion) at La Cave de
Thorins
/ · Clochemerle (%04 74 03 26
D68
58; www.cavedeclochemerle.
com; Place de la Mairie; h10am-
\ #
# 12.30pm & 3-7pm), housed in
6
# Villié-Morgon
atmospheric cellars.
/ ·
D9
/ · 4 p221
A6
Saône
/ ·
D337
Belleville- \ # LINK
/ · sur-Saône
D43
YOUR
TRIP
# \ Odenas
f Route des Grands
Crus
For more wine tasting and
rolling vineyards, make a
beeline for the Route des
Grands Crus, which unfolds
south of Dijon. Head to
/ · Mâcon and follow signs to
D43
Dijon.
/ · k Rhône Valley
D76
For a change of scene,
l head to Lyon (via Mâcon)
L
and discover the hidden
/ · # # gems of the Rhône Valley.
\ # 1
D84
Villefranche-
sur-Saône
F G
30 km to 20 ‚ 217

The Drive » Take the D133
to Le Perréon, then follow signs
to St-Étienne-des-Oullières and
Odenas. In Odenas, follow signs DAVID HUGHES / SHUTTERSTOCK ©
to Mont Brouilly (13km from
Vaux-en-Beaujolais).

TRIP HIGHLIGHT
4 Mont Brouilly
It would be a crime to
explore the Beaujolais
and not take the scenic
road that leads to Mont
Brouilly (485m), crowned
with a small chapel. Hold
on to your hat and lift
your jaw off the floor as
you approach the lookout
at the summit – the view
over the entire Beaujolais
region and the Saône
valley will be etched in
your memory forever.
The Drive » Drive down to
St-Lager, then take the D68 to
Cercié and continue along the
D337 to Beaujeu (9km from
ALPS, JURA & RHÔNE VALLEY 19 BEAujOLAIS VILLAGES
Mont Brouilly).
beaujolais.com; place de l’Hôtel the vaulted Caveau de
de Ville; h10am-12.30pm & Morgon (%04 74 04 20 99;
5 Beaujeu 2-6pm Wed-Mon Mar-Dec), www.morgon.fr; Château Font-
The historic Beaujolais across the square from the crenne, Rue du Château Font-
wine capital, Beaujeu is tourist office. Housed in crenne; h10am-noon & 2-6pm
an enchanting spot to a wonderful Renaissance Feb-Dec), which occupies
while away a few hours. building, this produce a grandiose 17th-century
The Caveau des Pro- shop has a wide array of château in the heart of
ducteurs de Beaujolais- Beaujolais wines, cheeses, town – it doesn’t get more
Villages (%04 74 04 81 jams and charcuterie. atmospheric than this.
18; Place de L’Hôtel de Ville; The Drive » Head to Lantignié 4 p221
h10.30am-1pm & 3.30-7pm along the D78 and continue to
late-Jan–Dec), located in the Régnié-Durette, where you’ll see The Drive » From Villié-
basement of the tourist of- signs to Villié-Morgon. The full Morgon, it’s a relaxed 10km
fice, is a great place to sip drive covers a little over 9km. drive to Fleurie via Chiroubles.
Follow the D18 and the D86 to
some excellent Beaujolais- Chiroubles, then signs to Fleurie.
Villages and Brouilly. It’s
also worth popping your 6 Villié-Morgon
head into the rewarding Morgon wine, anybody? 7 Fleurie
La Maison du Terroir Expand your knowledge Beaujolais’ rising star,
Beaujolais (%04 74 69 20 of the local appellation Fleurie red wines are said
56; www.lamaisonduterroir with a tasting session at to be sensuous, offering a

218

Beaujolais Vineyards line the valleys
combination of floral and towards Romanèche-Thorins and road from the windmill,
fruity notes. A superb you’ll soon reach Moulin à Vent. provides a prime wine-
experience, Château du It’s a 4km drive from Fleurie. tasting opportunity.
Bourg (%06 08 86 49 02, 04 The Drive » From Moulin à
74 69 81 15; www.chateau-du- Vent retrace your route back
bourg.com; Le Bourg; hby 8 Moulin à Vent towards Chénas and take the
reservation), run by the Reason itself to visit this D68 to Juliénas. It’s an easy
Matray brothers (ask for drowsy hamlet is the 6.6km drive.
Denis, who speaks some heritage-listed Moulin à
English), offers free tast- Vent (Windmill). Dubbed
ings in a cool bistro-like the ‘King of Beaujolais’, 9 juliénas
setting and can arrange the Moulin à Vent appel- One of the best-kept
vineyard tours and lation is a particularly secrets in Beaujolais is
cellar visits on request charming wine to sample this delightful village
(€12). Tip: Grille-Midi, in situ: its Caveau du famed for its eponymous
its signature vintage, is Moulin à Vent (%03 85 vintage. A beauty of a
unforgettable. 35 58 09; www.moulin-a-vent. castle, the 16th-century
net; 1673 route du Moulin à Vent;
5 p221 Château de Juliénas
h10am-12.30pm & 2.30-7pm (%04 74 04 49 98, 06 96 76
The Drive » Take the D68 daily Jul & Aug, 10am-12.30pm & 95 41; www.chateaudejulienas.
towards Chénas; after about 2.30-6pm Thu-Mon Sep–mid- com; Château de Juliénas;
3km turn right onto the D68e Dec & Mar-Jun), across the hby reservation) occupies

219

of the Pouilly-Fuissé ap-
WHEN BEAUJEU GOES WILD pellation. You can attend
tastings at various cellars
A colourful time to motor in Beaujeu is around the around town or, for the
third week in November. At the stroke of midnight ultimate experience, at
on the third Thursday (ie Wednesday night), the the magnificent Château
libération (release) or mise en perce (tapping; de Fuissé (%03 85 35 61
opening) of the first bottles of cherry-bright 44; www.chateau-fuisse.fr;
Beaujolais Nouveau is celebrated around France and Le Plan, Pouilly-Fuissé; hby
the world. In Beaujeu there’s free Beaujolais Nouveau reservation).
for all as part of the Sarmentelles de Beaujeu – a
giant street party that kicks off on the Wednesday The Drive » From Fuissé
leading up to the Beaujolais Nouveau’s release for follow signs to Chasselas
five days of wine tasting, live music and dancing. along the D172. After about
3.5km, turn right onto the D31
(direction Tramayes). Drive
a delightful estate; tours www.saint-amour-en-paradis. another 2km to a right-hand
turn onto the D54 (direction
can be arranged by phon- com; En Paradis; h10am- Solutré-Pouilly). Count on 15
ing ahead. No doubt you’ll 6pm). This award-winning minutes for the 7km trip.
be struck by the cellars, domaine run by the fifth
the longest in the region. generation of vintners
Tours can be followed by welcomes visitors to TRIP HIGHLIGHT
an aperi’vin (tasting and its intimate cellars and c Roche de Solutré
snacks; €16). Another at- sells St-Amour wines at A lovely 20-minute walk
mospheric venture set in unbeatable prices. along the Sentier des
a disused church, Cellier 4 p221 Roches will get you to
de la Vieille Église (%04 the top of the rocky out-
74 04 42 98; Le Bourg; h10am- The Drive » Follow the D186 crop known as the Roche
12.30pm & 3-6pm, closed Tue towards Chânes. In Bourgneuf, de Solutré (493m), from
ALPS, JURA & RHÔNE VALLEY 19 BEAujOLAIS VILLAGES
Oct-Apr) is a great place to take the D31 to St-Vérand. where Mont Blanc can
sip wines of the Juliénas From St-Vérand, follow signs to sometimes be seen, espe-
appellation. Chaintré and continue to Fuissé.
It’s a 10km trip from St-Amour. cially at sunset. For some
4 p221 cultural sustenance,
make a beeline for the
The Drive » Follow the road TRIP HIGHLIGHT nearby Musée Départe-
to St-Amour Bellevue along the b Fuissé mental de Préhistoire de
D17e and the D486ter (3.5km Solutré (%03 85 35 85 24;
from Juliénas). If you like peace, quiet
and sigh-inducing views, www.musees-bourgogne.org;
you’ll love this absolutely Solutré; adult/child €3.50/free;
a St-Amour picturesque stone town h10am-6pm Apr-Sep, 10am-
Bellevue nestled in a small valley noon & 2-5pm Oct-Mar, closed
Dec), which displays finds
carpeted by manicured
Not to be missed in St- vineyards. You’ve now left from one of Europe’s
Amour: the Domaine des Beaujolais – Fuissé is part richest prehistoric sites.
Vignes du Paradis – Pas- of Burgundy. It’s famous
cal Durand (%03 85 36 52 97; for its prestigious whites 5 p221







220

Eating & Sleeping


hrestaurant noon-2pm Wed, Sat & Sun, 7-9pm
Vaux-en-Beaujolais 3 Wed-Sun, closed Dec–mid-Mar; paWs)
This charming inn features 13 rooms in various
4 Auberge de Clochemerle Hotel €€ buildings scattered around the village. They’re
(%04 74 03 20 16; www.aubergedeclochemerle. all equipped to the highest standard, but the
fr; 12 rue Gabriel Chevallier; d €60-185, q €200, vast suites are the ones to aim for. Dinner at the
restaurant menus €42-81; pW) A pleasant restaurant is a gourmet affair, with standouts
combination of modern and traditional, this like coq au vin de Juliénas (chicken cooked in
atmospheric hotel smack dab in the centre has Juliénas wine) and Charolais beef fillet.
12 stylishly refitted rooms, some with vineyard
views. Dining at its Michelin-starred restaurant is
a treat. Chef Romain creates eleborate Beaujolais St-Amour Bellevue a
meals using the best local ingredients, and his B&B €
wife Delphine is a renowned sommelier – wine 4 Le Paradis de Marie
pairings are an adventure. Brilliant value. (%03 85 36 51 90; www.leparadisdemarie.com;
Les Ravinets; d €85, caravan €95, incl breakfast;
hApr-Oct; pW) Have a decadently bucolic ALPS, JURA & RHÔNE VALLEY 19 BEAujOLAIS VILLAGES
Villié-Morgon 6 rest at this relaxing place, a lovingly restored
stone mansion exquisitely situated not far from
4 Château de Bellevue B&B €€ the main street. The five rooms open onto a
(%04 74 66 98 88; www.chateau-bellevue.fr; courtyard, while the romantically furnished
Bellevue; d incl breakfast €99-160; pW) For the gypsy caravan in the garden will please those in
ultimate château experience, you can’t do better search of an offbeat experience.
than this attractive venture nestled amid seas 4 L’Auberge
of vineyards. Françoise Barbet will welcome you du Paradis Boutique Hotel €€
in perfect English and offer you a personalised
tour of the winery and the cellars. The five rooms (%03 85 37 10 26; www.aubergeduparadis.fr;
are spacious and country-chic elegant, with soft- Le Bourg; d €145-260, menu €70; hrestaurant
toned fabrics and sweeping vineyard views. 7.30-9pm Wed-Sun; paWs) Beaujolais’
iconic, much-beloved inn occupies a village
house restyled into an urban-chic, design-led
Fleurie 7 boutique hotel. Oh, and there’s the fantastic
restaurant – the creative, inspired cooking
5 Auberge du Cep French €€ (expect top-quality ingredients served with a
(%04 74 04 10 77; www.lecep-fleurie.fr; Place de symphony of spices) draws diners from afar.
l’Église; mains €18-28, menus €20-58; hnoon-
2pm & 7-8.30pm Tue-Sat, noon-2pm Sun)
Traditional cooking at its best. Feast on regional Solutré c
specialities such as pike-perch, snails, perfectly 5 La Courtille
fried frogs’ legs, and rosy tenderloin of Charolais French €€
beef (France’s best) in a rustic dining room. de Solutré
(%03 85 35 80 73; www.lacourtilledesolutre.fr; rte
de la Roche, Solutré-Pouilly; mains €24-25, lunch
juliénas 9 menus €16-28, menus €40-44; hnoon-2pm &
7-8.30pm Wed-Sat, noon-2pm Sun) Chef Adrien
4 Chez La Rose Hotel €€ Yparraguirre does traditional dishes exceptionally
(%04 74 04 41 20; www.chez-la-rose.fr; Le Bourg; well, with a creative twist. Sit on the shady terrace
d €69-125, ste €90-215, mains €17-22, menu €29; or head into the rustic-chic interior.



221

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
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Location Caption details to go here

GREG ELMS / GETTY IMAGES ©



Rhône Valley 20





The mighty Rhône flows from the Alps to the Mediterranean. Trace
its course from Lyon to Provence, visiting gourmet restaurants,
Gallo-Roman ruins and spectacular river gorges along the way.

TRIP HIGHLIGHTS
l L 5 DAYS
300KM / 186 MILES
0 km #
# 1
Lyon GREAT FOR…
Eat like a king and explore
secret passageways of # 35 km
2
#
the silk weavers HBJ
Vienne
A Gallo-Roman
treasure trove by the BEST TIME TO GO
Rhône's river banks
June and July for
festivals in the Roman
theatres of Lyon,
Vienne and Orange.
Valence # \
I ESSENTIAL
PHOTO
Mirmande # \ The Pont d’Arc,
a stunning stone
Montélimar # \ archway over the
Ardèche River.
230 km #
#
6
300 km BEST FOR
Gorges de l'Ardèche K
Kayak down this Orange FOODIES
dizzyingly beautiful Mornas # \ Gaze up at Caesar
Lyon’s beloved
#
#
8
river gorge m K atop an ancient bouchons (convivial
theatre wall
neighbourhood bistros).
Rhône V 223
Location Caption details to go herealley Quenelles de brochet, a regional speciality

TRIP HIGHLIGHT
20 Rhône Valley 2 Vienne
France’s Gallo-Roman
heritage is alive and
well in this laid-back
riverfront city, whose
Food and history are recurring themes on this back streets hide a
multifaceted meander down the Rhône, from trio of jaw-dropping
ruins: the 1st-century-BC
the fabled eateries of Lyon to the Gallo-Roman Temple d’Auguste et de
museum at Vienne, the nougat factories Livie, with its splendid
Corinthian columns; the
of Montélimar and the ancient theatre at Pyramide du Cirque, a
Orange. As you work your way downriver to 15.5m-tall obelisk that
once pierced the centre
Provence, you’ll also encounter imposing hilltop of a hippodrome; and the
fortresses, slow-paced southern villages and 1st-century-AD Théâtre
Romain (%04 74 85 39
one of France’s prettiest river gorges. 23; www.musees-vienne.
fr; rue du Cirque; adult/child
€3/free; h9.30am-1pm
& 2-6pm Tue-Sun), which
relives its glory days as a
performance venue each
Lyon’s skyscrapers backed summer during Vienne’s
TRIP HIGHLIGHT by the distant Alps. two-week jazz festival
1 Lyon With its illustrious (www.jazzavienne.com).
Across the river,
This strategic spot at the history and renowned a treasure trove of
gastronomy, France’s
confluence of the Rhône third-largest city merits at Gallo-Roman artefacts is
and Saône Rivers has least a two-day visit. Sup- displayed at the Musée
been luring people ever plement a walking tour Gallo-Romain (%04 74 53
since the Romans named (p230) of Lyon’s quint- 74 01; www.musees-gallo-
it Lugudunum in 43 BC. essential sights with a romains.com; D502, St-
Climb Fourvière hill west visit to Croix Rousse, the Romain-en-Gal; adult/child €6/
of town to witness the 19th-century silk-weaver’s free; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun).
successive waves of hu- district where Jacquard
man settlement, spread looms still restore fabrics 5 p229
out in chronological for France’s historical The Drive » Follow the D386,
order at your feet: a pair monuments, and don’t D1086 and D86 for 48km south,
of Gallo-Roman theatres leave town without eating threading the needle between
in the foreground, Vieux in at least one of the city’s the Rhône and the pretty
Lyon’s medieval cathedral incomparable bouchons mountains of the Parc Naturel
on the Saône’s near (small bistros). Régional du Pilat. At Sarras
banks, the 17th-century cross the bridge to St-Vallier,
hôtel de ville (town hall) 54 p45, p229 then continue 32km south on
on the peninsula between the N7 through classic Côtes du
Rhône wine country around Tain
the rivers, and, beyond The Drive » Shoot 33km down l’Hermitage into Valence.
the A7 to Vienne, enjoying close-
the Rhône, modern
up views of the Rhône en route.
224

# \
# \
Tarare # e 0 20 km # \
# \ Chazay- # \ 0 0 ¸ 10 miles
d'Azergues A432
L'Arbresle # \ l L Rhône 3 Valence
Montrottier # \ / · # \ Meyzieu With its warm weather,
N89
honey-coloured light
St-Foy- Lyon # 1 # ^ ##I # \ Genas and relaxed cadence, it’s
l'Argentière p230
# \ # \ St-Priest easy to see why Valence
Brignais # \ advertises itself as the
# \
135 km to St-Martin- / · / · northern gateway to
A46
A7
en-Haut
F G Givors # \ 0 ¸ # \
# \ Provence. At lunchtime,
13
‚ D518 make a beeline for André
/ · # (p229), a stylish eatery
#
2
# \ Vienne
A47
Condrieu
# ÷ # \ with an excellent wine
St-Étienne Parc Naturel # \ St-Alban list that’s part of the Pic
# \ Régional family’s award-winning,
du Pilat
# \ Firminy R Crêt de Le Peage- multigenerational restau-
l'Œillon # \ de-Roussillon
R (1370m) 0 ¸ rant empire, or pack
Crêt de la D519 yourself a picnic at the
Perdrix Bourg-
(1430m) # \ Argental Pic- affiliated gourmet gro- ALPS, JURA & RHÔNE VALLEY 20 RHôNE VALLEY
/ ·
Annonay cery, L’Épicerie (%04 75 25
# \
A7
AUVERGNE 07 07; www.anne-sophie-pic.
# \ St-Vallier com/content/lepicerie; 210 av
# \
St-Barthélemy- Victor Hugo; h9.30am-2.30pm
# \
# \ le-Plain Tain & 5-7pm Tue-Sat, 10am-1pm
l'Hermitage
# £ # \ # \ Sun). Afterwards visit Mai-
Tournon- # \ # \ son Nivon (%04 75 44 03 37;
sur-Rhône / · Romans-
N7
/ · Lamastre sur-Isère www.maison-nivon-valence.fr; 17
D15
# \ av Pierre Semard; suisses from
Montélier
# ] #
Valence # # \ €1.90; h6am-7.30pm Tue-Sun)
3
# \ Le Cheylard # \ for a suisse, Valence’s clas-
# \
Chabeuil sic orange-rind-flavoured
Rhône /· du Vercors Swiss Vatican guard. In
RHONE-ALPES N7 Parc Naturel pastry in the shape of a
Régional
# \
Loriol-
# \
Privas # \ sur- # \ Crest the old town, gawk at the
Drôme
# \
0 ¸ #
#
4
# \ Mirmande
N104
LINK
Ardèche
Aubenas # \ Rochemaure # \ YOUR
TRIP
# \ #
5
Uzer # \ # \ # Montélimar
# \ Alba-La- # \
# \ Bellevue Romaine Dieulefit d Volcanoes of the
# \
0 ¸ Auvergne
D73
Vallon- Gorges de # \ Grignan
Pont-d'Arc l'Ardèche Head west of Lyon for this
# Bourg- PROVENCE-
# \ # \ / · pastoral meander among
#
D4
6
ALPES-COTE
0 ¸ # \ St-Andéol Suze-la- D'AZUR ancient green peaks.
D290
A7
Aiguèze # \#\ / · Rousse Vaison-la- Roman Provence
St-Martin # \ Romaine l
d'Ardèche # ] From Orange, head
# \
St-Laurent northeast and further south
# \ Mornas
# 7
de Carnols # \ # \ # F G PROVENCE- to delve deeper into Roman
21
ALPES-
N7
St-Marcel- # \ m K / · # COTE ruins.
# ] #
de-Careiret 8 Orange D'AZUR
# \
# \ Sarrians
LANGUEDOC- Roquemaure # \ # \ #\
# \Baron ROUSSILLON # \ / · Carpentras 225
A7
# \
# \
# \ # \
# \ # \ # \ # \ #\
# \ # \ # \ #\ # \ # \ # \ # \
# \ # \ #\
# ]

FRANCK GUIZIOU / GETTY IMAGES ©




















ALPS, JURA & RHÔNE VALLEY 20 RHôNE VALLEY


allegorical sculpted heads Lhote made his home esque Église de Ste-Foy,
adorning the facade of the here. Volcanologist- where concerts and
wonderful 16th- century cinematographer Haroun art exhibits are held in
Maison des Têtes (57 Tazieff later served as summertime and beauti-
Grande Rue). the town’s mayor, adding ful Rhône Valley views
to Mirmande’s cultural unfold year-round.
54 p229 cachet and earning it
The Drive » Cruise 28km recognition as one of les The Drive » Snake 12km
southeast on the D57 over Col
south along the N7, then wind plus beaux villages de la de la Grande Limite (515m)
5km through orchard-covered France (France’s prettiest into medieval Marsanne, then
hills on the D57 into Mirmande. villages). continue 17km southwest into
With a couple of Montélimar on the D105 and D6.
charming hotels, Mir-
4 Mirmande mande makes an inviting
Surrounded by pretty or- overnight stop. Activities 5 Montélimar
chard country, this hilltop include browsing for An obligatory stop for
gem of stone houses and treasures at Porte des sweet tooths, Montéli-
sleepy medieval streets Gaultiers (www.porte mar is famous for its
was once a major centre desgaultiers.fr), an artsy delectable nougat made
of silkworm production. boutique by the arched from almonds, lavender
It then became an artists’ 14th-century town gate, honey, pistachios, sugar,
colony in the 20th century, and wandering up to the egg white and vanilla. To
when cubist painter André 12th-century Roman-

226

Montélimar The view from Château des Adhémar
taste this sweet delight river 15km south into Bourg- the many paddling tours
at the source, visit one of St-Andéol, then squiggle 30km down the river. Further
Montélimar’s small pro- along the D4 past St-Remèze’s east, the Sentier Aval des
ducers, such as L’Artisan lavender museum to Vallon- Gorges descends steeply
Nougatier (%04 75 52 01 Pont-d’Arc, western gateway to for 2km to the heart of the
the Gorges de l’Ardèche.
59; www.lartisannougatier. gorges, granting hikers
com; 35 bd Marre Desmarais; access to two primitive
h9am-7.30pm). Afterwards TRIP HIGHLIGHT campgrounds at Bivouac
burn off the calories with 6 Gorges de de Gournier and Bivouac
a climb to Château des l’Ardèche de Gaud. Allow some time
Adhémar (%04 75 00 62 to visit the sensational
30; www.chateaux.ladrome.fr; These steep and spectacu- Caverne du Pont d’Arc
adult/child €4/free; h10am- lar limestone gorges cut a (%04 75 94 39 40; www.
12.30pm & 2-6pm Sep-Jun, curvaceous swath through cavernedupontdarc.fr; Plateau
10am-6pm Jul-Aug), whose the high scrubland along du Razal; adult/child €13/6.50;
12th-century fortifica- the Ardèche River, a tribu- h8.30am-8pm May-Sep,
tions hold a Romanesque tary of the Rhône. The 9.30am-6.30pm Oct-Dec &
chapel and a rotating real showstopper, near the Feb-Apr) museum, which
series of art exhibits. gorges’ western entrance, houses replicas of amaz-
is the Pont d’Arc, a sub- ing prehistoric paintings.
The Drive » Follow the D73 limely beautiful natural
southwest for 10km across the stone arch. Stop here to 4 p229
Rhône into Viviers, follow the
camp, swim or join one of
227

BOUCHONS
A bouchon might be a ‘bottle stopper’ or ‘traffic jam’ elsewhere in France, but
in Lyon it’s a cosy, traditional bistro specialising in regional cuisine. Bouchons
originated in the first half of the 20th century when many bourgeois families had to
let go their in-house cooks, who then set up their own restaurants.
Kick-start your meal with a communard, an aperitif of red Beaujolais wine and
crème de cassis (blackcurrant liqueur), then move on to a pot – a 46cL glass bottle
adorned with an elastic band to prevent wine drips – of local Brouilly, Beaujolais,
Côtes du Rhône or Mâcon.
Next comes the entrée, perhaps tablier de sapeur (breaded, fried tripe), salade
lyonnaise (green salad with bacon, croutons and poached egg), or lentils in creamy
sauce. Hearty main dishes include boudin noir aux pommes (blood sausage with
apples), quenelles de brochet (pike dumplings served in a creamy crayfish sauce)
and andouillette (sausage made from pigs’ intestines).
For the cheese course, choose between a bowl of fromage blanc (a cross
between cream cheese and natural yoghurt); cervelle de canut (‘brains of the silk
weaver’; fromage blanc mixed with chives and garlic, a staple of Lyon’s 19th-century
weavers); or local St Marcellin ripened to gooey perfection.
Desserts are grandma-style: think tarte aux pommes (apple tart), or the
Lyonnais classic tarte aux pralines, a brilliant rose-coloured confection made with
crème fraiche and crushed sugar-coated almonds.
Little etiquette is required in bouchons. Mopping your plate with a chunk of bread
is fine, and you’ll usually sit elbow-to-elbow with your fellow diners at tightly wedged
tables (great for practising your French).
ALPS, JURA & RHÔNE VALLEY 20 RHôNE VALLEY

The Drive » From Vallon- dramatic backdrop for the
Pont-d’Arc, the breathtaking pretty village below. Built TRIP HIGHLIGHT
D290 zigzags for 29km along by the medieval Counts 8 Orange
the canyon’s rim, with 11 of Toulouse, it commands
viewpoints revealing dazzling outstanding views west Sun-drenched Orange is a
vistas of horseshoe bends, and to the Rhône and east dream for fans of ancient
kayakers in formation far below. to Mont Ventoux. A trail ruins. Outstanding Théâ-
Exiting the gorges, take the climbs 137 vertical metres tre Antique (www.theatre-
D200 for 2km south through antique.com; rue Madeleine
pretty medieval Aiguèze, then from the village past the Roch; adult/child €9.50/7.50;
continue 22km southeast across 12th-century Roman- h9am-7pm Jun-Aug, shorter
the Rhône into Mornas via the esque Église Notre-Dame hours rest of year), one of only
D901, D6086, D994 and N7. du Val-Romigier to the three Roman theatres in
fortress, where costumed the world with a perfectly
guides offer historical preserved stage wall,
7 Mornas re-enactments. Medieval shines during summer
Perched on some pre- fever also grips Mornas performances such as epic
cipitous cliffs, the 11th- to in September during La international opera festi-
14th-century Forteresse Médiévale de Mornas, a val Chorégies d’Orange
de Mornas (%04 90 37 01 popular annual festival (www.choregies.asso.fr; hJul &
26; www.forteresse-de-mornas. and crafts market. Aug). North of town is the
com; tours adult/child €9/7; The Drive » Zip 12km exquisite 1st-century-AD
htours 11am, 2pm, 3pm, southeast down the N7 Arc de Triomphe.
4pm, 5pm daily Jul & Aug, Sat & into Orange, greeted by the
Sun Apr-Jun & Sep) makes a magnificent Arc de Triomphe. 4 p245

228

Eating & Sleeping




Lyon 1 Valence 3
5 Daniel et Denise Bouchon €€ 5 André Bistro €€
(%04 78 42 24 62; www.danieletdenise-stjean. (%04 75 44 15 32; www.anne-sophie-pic.com/
fr; 36 rue Tramassac, 5e; mains €15-25, lunch content/andre; 285 av Victor Hugo; mains €24-
menu €21, menus €30-40; hnoon-2pm & 54, menu €32; hnoon-2pm & 8-9.30pm) André
7.30-9.30pm Tue-Sat) One of Vieux Lyon’s most is the less formal but still stunning bistro side
dependable and traditional eateries, this classic of Anne-Sophie Pic’s gastronomic empire. The
spot is run by award-winning chef Joseph Viola, fabulous-value menu always involves seasonal,
who was elected president of Lyon’s bouchon fresh ingredients, and dishes are imaginatively
association in 2014. Come here for elaborate prepared and artfully presented. The belle ALPS, JURA & RHÔNE VALLEY
variations on traditional Lyonnais themes. époque–inspired decor, with wooden tables and
old photos of the Pic family adorning the walls,
4 Cour des Loges Hotel €€€ is equally stunning.
(%04 72 77 44 44; www.courdesloges.com; 2-8
rue du Bœuf, 5e; d €200-350, ste €250-600; 4 La Maison de la Pra
aiWs; mVieux Lyon) Four 14th- to 17th- (%04 75 43 69 73; www.maisondelapra.com; 8
century houses wrapped around a traboule rue de l’Équerre; d €145-200, q €240; paW)
(secret passage) with preserved features such Such charm! If you’ve ever wanted to stay in a
as Italianate loggias make this an exquisite 16th-century hôtel particulier (master’s house),
place to stay. Individually decorated rooms this bijou B&B enticingly positioned in a quiet
woo with designer bathroom fittings and alley near the town hall is the real McCoy. It
B&B €€ 20 RHôNE VALLEY
bountiful antiques, while decadent facilities shelters five stadium-sized suites with beamed
include a spa, a Michelin-starred restaurant ceilings, period furniture and artworks. They’re
(menus €95 to €115), a swish cafe and a cross- smack in the centre but still feel very quiet.
vaulted bar. Good English is spoken.

Vienne 2 Gorges de l’Ardèche 6
5 L’Espace PH3 Modern French €€ 4 Le Belvédère Hotel €
(%04 74 53 01 96; www.lapyramide.com; 14 bd (%04 75 88 00 02; www.hotel-ardeche-belvedere.
Fernand Point; mains €20-23, lunch menu €24; com; D290, rte Touristique des Gorges; d €60-125;
hnoon-1.30pm & 7.30-9.30pm) Overseen by hApr-Oct; paWs) Just 300m away
two-Michelin-starred chef Patrick Henriroux, from the Pont d’Arc, the aptly named Belvédère
L’Espace PH3 offers an affordable gastronomic (Lookout) has 30 rooms that have been sleekly
menu, serving a small selection of French refitted. Half of the rooms have views of the
classics with a creative twist. The lunch menu is Gorges, and some come with a balcony. Facilities
an absolute steal. In summer, meals are served include a swimming pool, a canoe/kayak rental
out on the superb garden terrace. outlet and a well-regarded on-site restaurant
(menus from €23). Fancy a dip? There’s direct
access to the river just across the road.









229

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Basilique Notre-Dame de
Fourvière
Start at this massive hilltop basilica
(www.fourviere.org; place de Fourvière, 5e;
STRETCH rooftop tours adult/child €7/4; h8am-6.45pm,
tours Apr-Nov), whose terrace offers stun-
YOUR LEGS ning panoramas of Lyon, the Rhône and
Saône Rivers, and even distant Mont
Blanc on clear days.
LYON The Walk » Head southwest along rue Roger
Radisson for 250m to the Gallo-Roman Museum.
Musée Gallo-Romain de
Fourvière
Ancient Gallo-Roman artefacts from
the Rhône Valley are displayed at this
Start/Finish Basilique Notre- hillside museum (%04 73 38 49 30; 17
Dame de Fourvière rue Cléberg, 5e; adult/child €4/free, Thu free;
h10am-6pm Tue-Sun). Next door are two
Distance 3km ancient Roman theatres, the 10,000-seat
Théâtre Romain and the smaller odéon.
Duration 2½ hours
The Walk » Descend rue Cléberg 200m, then
turn left into leafy Parc des Hauteurs, following
the main path downhill 400m to Montée St-
Barthélémy. Walk downhill about 50m on Montée
Stroll through two millennia of St-Barthélémy and turn right into Montée des
Lyonnais history, from the Gallo- Chazeaux, down to rue du Bœuf. Turn right then
immediately left into rue de la Bombarde for about
Roman settlement of Lugudunum 30m. Take the first street to the right (rue des
Antonins) until you reach the cathedral.
to Lyon’s avant-garde 20th-century Cathédrale St-Jean
opera house; along the way, three This partly Romanesque, partly Flam-
secret medieval passageways and a boyant Gothic cathedral (place St-Jean,
pedestrian bridge across the Saône 5e; h8.15am-7.45pm Mon-Fri, to 7pm Sat &
Sun;) was built between the late 11th
River are thrown in just for fun. and early 16th centuries. Don’t miss
the astro nomical clock in the north
transept, which chimes elaborately at
noon, 2pm, 3pm and 4pm daily.
The Walk » Go back to rue du Bœuf and stop at
house number 27 (on your right).
Traboules
Throughout Vieux Lyon, secret passages
known as traboules (from the Latin
transambulare, ‘to walk through’) wind
Take this walk on Trip through apartment blocks and court-
yards, up stairs and down corridors,
1k connecting streets with one another in
unexpected ways. In all, 315 passages

230

# e 0 0 0.25 miles R des Capucins # ï 0000000
500 m
0000000
Opéra
# & K
0000000
0000000
Fresque des # R de la Martinière 0000000
de Lyon
0000000
Place des
0000000
Saône Lyonnais 000000 0000000
000000
Terreaux
000000
000000
#
Q Pierre Scize R d'Algérie 000000
000000
000000
R de l'Arbre Sec Q André Lassagne
Q de Bondy
R Roger Radison MontéeSt-Barthélemy 00000 Q Romain Rolland Q de la Pêcherie
R François Vernay
00000
00000
R Juiverie
00000
R St-Jean
00000
00000
00000
Q Saint-Antoine
00000
00000
00000
Basilique 00000 00000 R du Président Édouard Herriot
00000
00000
00000
00000
Notre-Dame R du Bœuf 00000
00000
00000
00000
de Fourvière 00000 00000
00000
00000
00000
& L # Traboules 00000 0000 0000
00000
00000
0000
#
00000
0000
00000
0000
00000
0000
0000
00000
00000
00000
00000
00000
00000
0000
00000
000
0000
R Roger Radisson # R Cléberg R de la Bombarde Cathédrale 00000 0000 Q André Lassagne
Q des Célestins
0000
000
00000
#
000
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de Fourvière
link 230 streets, with a combined length The Walk » Head 400m east on rue de la
w
w
of 50km. Some traboules date from Martinière, then go south one block on rue Paul
# .
Roman times, while others were con- Chenavard into place des Terreaux.
structed by canuts (silk weavers) in the
19th century to transport silk in inclem- Place des Terreaux
ent weather. Resistance fighters found The centrepiece of Lyon’s beautiful cen-
them equally handy during WWII. tral square is a 19th-century fountain
sculpted by Frédéric-Auguste Bartholdi
The Walk » Enter the traboule at number 27 (of Statue of Liberty fame). Fronting
and navigate to its exit at 54 rue St-Jean; turn
left into rue St-Jean until you reach number 27. the square’s eastern edge is the ornate
Open the door and cross to 6 rue des Trois Maries. hôtel de ville (town hall).
Turn left and walk until you reach Place de la The Walk » From the south side of the square,
Baleine, which is lined with plenty of eateries and head 250m east on rue Joseph Serlin to the Opéra.
an iconic ice-cream parlour. Take the small alley
on your right and you’re now on the main road Opéra de Lyon
along the Saône River. Now follow the Sâone River
600m north and cross the Passerelle St-Vincent Lyon’s neoclassical 1831-built opera
pedestrian bridge to Lyon’s most famous mural. house (www.opera-lyon.com; 1 place de la Comé-
die, 1er) sports a striking semi-cylindrical
Fresque des Lyonnais glass-domed roof, added in 1993 by
Well-known Lyonnais peer out from this renowned French architect Jean Nouvel.
seven-storey mural (cnr rue de la Martinière & On summer evenings, free jazz concerts
quai St-Vincent, 1er), including loom inven- are performed under the arches up front.
tor Joseph-Marie Jacquard, superstar The Walk » From Hôtel de Ville station, where
chef Paul Bocuse and the yellow-haired you’re now standing, ride the metro three
Little Prince, created by author-aviator stops back to Vieux Lyon station, then return to
Antoine de Saint-Exupéry. Fourvière via funicular.
231

232

Provence &


Southeast



France











WITH ITS SHIMMERING COAST AND
RUSTIC PROVENÇAL HEART, the
Mediterranean south has a timeless allure.
Driving here you’ll travel through wildly
divergent landscapes: cinematic coastline,
rugged hinterland and bucolic valleys. And
there are loads of charming villages to explore.
The Cote d’Azur’s glamorous cities, deep-
blue Med and chic hilltop villages never fail to
delight. Inland, you’ll weave between fragrant
fields, forested gorges and Roman ruins. Skip
over the sea to the unspoilt island delights
of Corsica or be engulfed in the lush green
wetlands of the Camargue.
Along the way you’ll connect with the poets,
painters and writers who flocked here during
the 20th century, chasing sun and inspiration.

Cote d’Azur Corniche de l’Esterel
RUTH TOMLINSON / ROBERTHARDING / GETTY IMAGES ©

Ses
Parc Naturel Parc Parc Naturel
Régional du / · National Regional du
N85
Vercors
Provence & HAUTES- Embrun
Queyras
des Écrins
Southeast DRÔME Gap # \ ALPES # \
France Durance les-Alpes Le Sauze
Seyne-
# \
# \
/ · / · Geologique
Reserve
A7
A51
PROVENCE de Haute Provence
# ] La Javie # \
F G Vaison-la- # \ Colmars-
Orange 21 Romaine Château-Arnoux les-Alpes
/ · # ] VAUCLUSE F G St-Auban # \ ALPES DE
D6
HAUTE-
/ · # \ Carpentras 22 0 ¸ # \ Les Mées PROVENCE
A7
GARD Sorgues # \ 0 ¸ D950 # \ Forcalquier
D943
# ] Avignon # ] / ·
N85
Gard Gordes # \ Parc Naturel Valensole Régional du Verdon
Parc Naturel
/ ·
A9
Régional
Nîmes # ] Tarascon # \ Noves du Luberon # \
# \ # \ Orgon
# \ # ]
Caissargues # \ Cadenet
F G Salon de Artuby
21
Provence
St-Gilles # \ # ]Arles 0 ¸ # \ # \ Pelissanne Durance
N113
0 ¸ F G St-Chamas # \ # \ Aix-en- St-Maximin- F G
24
Provence
D570
27
D36
Parc / · Étang # \ la-Ste-Baume Argens Fréjus # \
:
A8
:
Stes- # \ Naturel Port de Berre / ·
Régional
Maries- de Camargue # \ St-Louis du :
de-la-Mer Rhône L'Estaque # \ VAR # \ St-Maxime # \
A51
Marseille # ^ /· # \ Aubagne Cuers St-Tropez # \
Golfe de # \ Domaine
Beauduc Cassis # \ Toulon du Rayo # \
Les Lecques # \ # ] # \ # \ Le Lavandou
Hyères
MEDITERRANEAN
SEA
Roman Provence 7 Days Southern Seduction en Corse
l Provence’s impressive Roman treas- p 10 Days
ures line up along this leisurely drive. This jaunt along Corsica’s southern
(p237) coast takes in plenty of history. (p277)
Lavender Route 4–5 Days Corsican Coast Cruiser 5 Days
m The region at its prettiest, with flow- q Discover western Corsica’s majestic
ery fields and rustic villages. (p247) mountain peaks and covetable sandy
coves. (p287)
Riviera Crossing 4 Days
n The best beaches, cities, villages and The Camargue 4 Days
nature along the Med coast. (p255) r Loop through the wild, lush wetlands
where bulls and white horses roam.
Var Delights 5 Days (p297)
o Expect an incredible array of view-
points and spectacular landscapes.
(p267)
234

# ]
# \
Sestriere
Corsica # ] # ] # ]
Saluzzo # \ DON'T
Ligurian Sea
MISS
MEDITERRANEAN # ^
SEA
I T A L Y Cuneo # ] Île # \ Bastia # \ The Road up Mt
Rousse
# \ # ] Ventoux
St Etienne- Calvi # ]
la-Tinée Relive gruelling Tour de
# \ Parco Naturale Corsica # \ 0 ¸
delle Alpi N198 France ascents from
Parc National Marittime Corte (Corti) behind the wheel. Feel
# \
# \ # ] # \
du Mercantour # ] #] F G
St-Sauveur- St-Martin- 26 Vezzani Antisanti the cycling love on
sur-Tinee # \ # \ Vesubie 0 ¸ # \ # \ #\ # \ Trip m
D81
ALPES- # \ Cateraggio
0 ¸ MARITIMES Roquebillière Parc Naturel
Régional
N202
Villars- # \ Ajaccio # ^ de la Corse # \ Solenzara Fenocchio
sur-Var (Aiacciu)
Menton Enjoy some original
MONACO
Loup Beaulieu-sur-Mer # _ # ] # ] Ventimiglia # \ flavours at this iconic
Sartène
25
Vence # \ # ] # \ (Sartè) F G ice-cream parlour on
Grasse Nice FG 0 ¸ Trip n
23
N198
# \
50 km
# ] Antibes 0 0 Ligurian 25 miles
# ]
/ · Cannes Sea Grand Hôtel Nord
A8
# \ Pinus, Arles
# \
# \ St-Raphaël
What other hotel (or
city) boasts embedded
# \
# \ Roman columns and
MEDITERRANEAN bullfighters’ trophies?
SEA
48km to Visit on Trip r
Corsica
‚
Orange’s Roman Arc
# e 0 0 25 miles de Triomphe
50 km
This monument’s
detailed carvings are a
fascinating peek into
what got your average
Roman foot soldier
excited. Get close on
Trip l
Pastis
Always ask for this
CHRISTOPHE LEHENAFF / GETTY IMAGES ©
aniseed-flavoured
liqueur by brand. We
like the herbal Henri
Bardouin or the spicy
Janot. Sip on Trips
lo,
Mont Ventoux Limestone slopes and stunning vistas
235

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
1
2
3
4
5
6
1244
3244
4245
5245
6245















































Location Caption details to go here

#
BETHUNE CARMICHAEL / GETTY IMAGES ©

Roman Provence 21





Survey Provence’s incredible Roman legacy as you follow ancient
routes through the region’s river gorges and vineyards, gathering
provisions as you go.

TRIP HIGHLIGHTS
7 DAYS
30 km 205KM / 127 MILES
Pont du Gard
Aqueduct of dizzying
scale, magnificently Vaison-la- GREAT FOR…
m K
sited # Romaine HBJ

# # #
#
5
BEST TIME TO GO
Ruins open year-round,
but avoid August’s heat
175 km and crush.
# 2 # # # A soaring stage
Orange
l L conjures up Rome’s I ESSENTIAL
PHOTO
splendour
# 1 # # #
Nîmes The Pont du Gard,
St-Remy de
Provence # illuminated every
night in summer.
# 3 # # # 95 km K BEST FOR
Arles CULTURE
Nîmes Bustling city square Balmy nights at
A 1st-century-AD with Roman treasures
temple, beautiful and below Orange’s Théâtre
totally intact Antique are magical;
July includes the
0 km
Chorégies d’Orange.
Nîme 237
Location Caption details to go heres Temple de Diane

TRIP HIGHLIGHT
Roman
21 Provence 1 Nîmes
Nîmes’ bizarre coat
of arms – a crocodile
chained to a palm tree! –
recalls the region’s first,
Provence was where Rome first truly flexed its but definitely not last,
imperial muscles. Follow Roman roads, cross horde of sun-worshipping
retirees. Julius Caesar’s
Roman bridges and grab a seat in the bleachers loyal legionnaires were
at Roman theatres and arenas. Thrillingly, granted land here to
settle after hard years
you’ll discover that most of Provence’s Roman on the Nile campaigns.
ruins aren’t ruins at all. Many are exceptionally Two millennia later,
their ambitious town
well preserved, and some are also evocatively blends seamlessly with
integrated into the modern city. With Provence’s the bustling, workaday
French streetscapes
knockout landscape as a backdrop, history never of the modern city. An
looked so good!


# e 0 0 10 miles 20 km Vaison-la-
m K
#
/ · #
6
# \ A7 Romaine
0 ¸
# \ Potelières Bagnols- FG Camaret- D975 R
GARD # \ sur-Cèze 20 sur-Aigues # \ PROVENCE # \ Malaucène
Orange# Bedoin # \
#
5
St-Quentin- Roquemaure # \ # \ Carpentras
# \ # \ la-Poterie # \ Pouzilhac
Baron # \ Monteux
# \ Uzès Tavel # \ # \ Pernes-les-
A9
Pont du / · Pujaut / · # \ Fontaines
0 ¸ Gard # ] A7 Sorgue VAUCLUSE
#
2
#
D112
Avignon # \ L'Isle-sur- # \
0 ¸ Aramon # \ Noves la-Sorgue
D979
l L / · # \ Graveson # \ Durance
A9
# 1
Nîmes # Redessan # \ Cavaillon
# \
Beaucaire # \
# \ Bouillargues # Orgon # \
#
4
# ] Glanum
A7
# \ Bellegarde Rhône Baux-de- Senas / ·
/ · Provence #\ # \
A54
# \ Genérac / · # \ Fontvielle BOUCHES-DU-RHÔNE
D17
Petit Rhône Parc Naturel # Arles # \ Mouriès Eyguières 170 km to
# \
#
3
Régional de
/ ·
23
D5
Camargue
‚ F G

impressively intact 1st-
century-AD amphithea- TOP TIP:
tre (http://arenes-nimes.com; PADDLING THE GARD
place des Arènes; adult/child RIVER
incl audioguide €10/8; h9am- Get your first glimpse of the Pont du Gard from the
8pm Jul & Aug, shorter hours
Sep-Jun) makes for a ma- river by paddling 8km downstream from Collias, 4km
west of the D981. Kayak Vert (%04 66 22 80 76; www.
jestic traffic roundabout.
Locals nonchalantly kayakvert.com; 8 chemin de St-Vincent, Collias; from Collias
adult/child €23/19, from Russan €41/37; h9am-6pm mid-
skateboard or window-
shop on the elegant May–Oct) and Canoë Le Tourbillon (%04 66 22 85 54;
www.canoeletourbillon.com; 3 chemin du Gardon, Collias; from
place that’s home to an Collias adult/child €23/17, from Russan €36/24; h9am-7pm
astonishingly beautiful Apr-Sep), both based near the village bridge, rent out
and preciously intact kayaks and canoes (€20 per person for two hours)
1st-century-AD temple, from March/April to October.
the Maison Carrée (place
de la Maison Carrée; adult/child
€6/5; h9.30am-8pm Jul & uphill walk brings you to sengers €18, after 8pm €10,
Aug, shorter hours Sep-Jun). the crumbling, 30m-high by bicycle or on foot €7, after
Skip the 22-minute film Tour Magne (quai de la 8pm €3.50; hvisitor centre & PROVENCE & SOUTHEAST FRANCE 21 ROMAN PROVENCE
and instead stroll over to Fontaine; garden free, Tour museum 9am-8pm Jul & Aug,
the elegant Jardins de la Magne adult/child €3.50/3; shorter hours Sep–mid-Jan &
Fontaine. The remains h9am-8pm Jul & Aug, shorter mid-Feb–Jun) on approach.
of the Temple de Diane hours Sep-Jun). Built in 15 Nature (and clever place-
are in its lower northwest BC as a watchtower and ment of car parks and
corner and a 10-minute display of imperial grunt, visitor centres) has cre-
it is the only one that ated one bravura reveal.
remains of several that Spanning the gorge is a
LINK once spanned the 7km- magnificent three-tiered
YOUR long ramparts. aqueduct, a marvel of
TRIP 1st-century engineering.
54 p244 It was built around 19 BC
k Rhône Valley The Drive » The D6086 is by Agrippa, Augustus’
Join up with direct, but sacrifice 15 minutes, deputy, and it’s huge: the
this trip in Orange for and take route d’Uzès (D979). 275m-long upper tier,
several great Roman This way, leave Nîmes’ snarly 50m above the Gard, has
sites in Vienne, and traffic behind and suddenly find 35 arches. Each block
Lyon’s Roman theatres yourself on a quiet stretch of (the largest weighs over
winding road skirting grey rocky
and great Gallo-Roman gorges and honey-stone villages. 5 tonnes) was hauled in
museum. Cut east via Sanilhac-Sagriès by cart or raft. It was
on the D112, then turn off at once part of a 50km-
n Riviera Crossing Begude’s roundabout. long system that carried
The Cote d’Azur water from nearby Uzès
shares the Roman TRIP HIGHLIGHT down to thirsty Nîmes.
treasures, and many It’s a 400m wheelchair-
of them are in superb 2 Pont du Gard accessible walk from car
locations; head east from You won’t get a sneak parks on both banks of
Arles to Aix, then take peek of the Pont du Gard the river to the bridge
the E80 to Cannes to join (%04 66 37 50 99; www.pont itself, with a shady cafe
this trip. dugard.fr; car & up to 5 pas- en route on the right.


239

Swim upstream for unen- still sees blood spilled,
cumbered views, though just like in the good old
downstream is also good gladiatorial days (it hosts
for summer dips, with bullfights and courses
shaded wooden platforms Camarguaises, which UNIVERSAL IMAGES GROUP / GETTY IMAGES ©
set in the flatter banks. is the local variation).
Want to make a day of Likewise, the 1st-century
it? There’s Museo de la Théâtre Antique (%04 90
Romanité, an interac- 96 93 30; bd des Lices; adult/
tive, information-based child €6/free, joint ticket with Les
museum, plus a children’s Arènes €9/free; h9am-7pm
area, and a peaceful May-Sep, shorter hours rest of
1.4km botanical walk, year) is still regularly used
Mémoires de Garrigue. for alfresco performances.
Just as social, poli tical
The Drive » Kayaking to and religious life revolved
the next stop would be more
fun, and more direct, but you’ll around the forum in Are-
need to hit the highway for 40 late, the busy plane-tree-
minutes to Arles – the A9 that shaded place du Forum
skirts back towards Nîmes and buzzes with cafe life
then the A54. today. Sip a pastis here
and spot the remains of
TRIP HIGHLIGHT a 2nd-century temple
embedded in the facade
3 Arles of the Hôtel Nord-Pinus.
Arles, formerly known as Under your feet are
Arelate, was part of the Cryptoportiques (adult/
Roman Empire from as child €4.50/free; h9am-noon
early as the 2nd century & 2-7pm) – subterranean
PROVENCE & SOUTHEAST FRANCE 21 ROMAN PROVENCE
BC. It wasn’t until the foundations and buried
49–45 BC civil war, arcades. Access the
however, when nearby under ground galleries,
Massalia (Marseille) 89m long and 59m wide,
supported Pompey (ie at the hôtel de ville (Town
backed the wrong side), Hall; place de la République).
that it became a booming Emperor Constantin’s
regional capital. partly preserved 4th-
The town today is century private baths, the by Christians in the
delightful, Roman cache Thermes de Constantin 4th century. It contains
or no, but what a living (rue du Grand Prieuré; adult/ the tombs of martyr St
legacy it is. Les Arènes child €4/free; h9am-7pm Jul Genest and Arles’ first
(Amphithéâtre; %08 91 70 03 & Aug, shorter hours rest of bishops. You may recog-
70; www.arenes-arles.com; year), are a few minutes’ nise it: Van Gogh and
Rond-Point des Arènes; adult/ stroll away, next to the Gauguin both captured
child €6/free, incl Théâtre quai. Southwest of the the avenues of cypresses
Antique €9/free; h9am-8pm centre is Les Alyscamps on canvas (though only
Jul & Aug, to 7pm May-Jun & (av des Alyscamps; adult/child melancholy old Van
Sep, shorter hours rest of year) €4/free; h9am-7pm May-Sep, Gogh painted the empty
is not as larges as Nîmes’, shorter hours rest of year), a sarcophagi).
but it is spectacularly necropolis founded by
sited and occasionally the Romans and adopted 54 p244, p303, p409

240

St-Rémy-de-Provence Roman ruins at Glanum
The Drive » Take the D17 des Baux-de-Provence; adult/
to Fontvielle, then turn off and 4 Glanum child €7.50/free, parking €2.70;
follow the D78F/D27A to Baux- h9.30am-6.30pm Apr-Sep,
de-Provence, then the D5. This Such is the glittering 10am-5pm Oct-Mar, closed
minor detour takes you past allure of the gourmet
beautiful dry white rocky hills delis, interiors boutiques Mon Sep-Mar) is often an
dotted with scrubby pine; the and smart restaurants afterthought. But the tri-
trip will still only take around that line St-Rémy-de- umphal arch (AD 20) that
45 minutes. There’s on-site Provence’s circling marks Glanum’s entrance,
parking at Glanum. If heading 2km south of St-Rémy, is
into St-Rémy, there’s parking boulevards and place de far from insignificant. It’s
by the tourist office (parking la République that a visit pegged as one of France’s
Jean-Jaurès) and north of the to the Site Archéologique oldest and is joined by
periphery (parking Général-de- de Glanum (%04 90 92 23
Gaulle). 79; www.site-glanum.fr; rte a towering mausoleum
(30–20 BC). Walk down

241

SALVE, PROVINCIA GALLIA TRANSALPINA

It all starts with the Greeks. After founding the city of Massalia, now Marseille,
around 600 BC, they spent the next few centuries establishing a long string of ports
along the coast, planting olives and grapes as they went. When migrating Celts
from the north joined forces with the local Ligurians, resistance to these booming
colonies grew. The Celto-Ligurians were a force to be reckoned with; unfortunately,
they were about to meet ancient history’s biggest bullies. In 125 BC the Romans
helped the Greeks defend Massalia, and swiftly took control.
Thus begins the Gallo-Roman era and the region of Provincia Gallia Transalpina,
the first Roman provincia (province), the name from which Provence takes it name.
Later Provincia Narbonensis, it embraced all of southern France from the Alps to
the Mediterranean and the Pyrenees.
Roads made the work of empire possible, and the Romans quickly set about
securing a route that joined Italy and Spain. Via Aurelia linked Rome to Fréjus, Aix-
en-Provence, Arles and Nîmes; the northbound Via Agrippa followed the Rhône from
Arles to Avignon, Orange and onwards to Lyon. The Via Domitia linked the Alps with
the Pyrenees by way of the Luberon and Nîmes.
With Julius Caesar’s conquest of Gaul (58–51 BC), the region truly flourished.
Under the emperor Augustus, vast amphitheatres, triumphal arches and ingenious
aqueducts – the ones that propel this trip – were constructed. Augustus celebrated
his final defeat of the ever-rebellious Ligurians in 14 BC, with the construction of the
monument at La Turbie on the Côte d’Azur.
The Gallo-Roman legacy may be writ large and loud in Provence, but it also
persists in the everyday. Look for it in unusual places: recycled into cathedral floors
or hotel facades, in dusty cellars or simply buried beneath your feet.

PROVENCE & SOUTHEAST FRANCE 21 ROMAN PROVENCE
the main street and you’ll parking one block back
pass the mainstays of TRIP HIGHLIGHT from the theatre).
Roman life: baths, a forum 5 Orange At a massive 103m
and marketplace, temples It’s often said if you can wide and 37m high, the
and town villas. And stage wall of the Théâtre
beneath all this Roman only see one Roman site Antique (Ancient Roman
in France, make it Or-
handiwork lies the rem- Theatre; %04 90 51 17 60;
nants of an older Celtic ange. And yes, the town’s www.theatre-antique.com; rue
Roman treasures are
and Hellenic settlement, gobsmacking and unusu- Madeleine Roch; adult/child
built to take advantage €9.50/7.50; h9am-7pm Jun-
of a sacred spring. Van ally old; both are believed Aug, to 6pm Apr, May & Sep,
to have been built during
Gogh, as a patient of the 9.30am-5.30pm Mar & Oct,
neighbouring asylum, Augustus Caesar’s rule 9.30am-4.30pm rest of year)
(27 BC–AD 14). Plus, while
painted the olive orchard Orange may not be the dominates the surround-
that covered the site until ing streetscape. Minus a
its excavation in the 1920s. Provençal village of popu- few mosaics, plus a new
lar fantasy, it’s a cruisy,
5 p245 decidedly untouristy roof, it’s one of three in
town, making for good- the world still standing
The Drive » It’s the A7 all value accommodation and in their entirety, and
the way to Orange, 50km of originally seated 10,000
nondescript driving if you’re not hassle-free sightseeing spectators. Admission
tempted by a detour to Avignon (such as plentiful street includes an informative
on the way.
242

audioguide, and access the colonnaded boutiques
to the Musée d’Art et 6 Vaison-la- and bathed at La Villasse,
d’Histoire (h9.15am-7pm Romaine where you’ll find Maison
Jun-Aug, to 6pm Apr, May au Dauphin, which has
& Sep, shorter hours rest of Is there anything more splendid marble-lined fish
year) across the road. telling of Rome’s smarts ponds.
Its collection includes than a sturdy, still-used In Puymin, see noble-
friezes from the theatre Roman bridge? Vaison- men’s houses, mosaics,
with the Roman motifs la-Romaine’s pretty little a workmen’s quarter, a
we love: eagles holding Pont Romain has stood temple, and the still-
garlands of bay leaves, the test of time and severe functioning 6000-seat
and a cracking battle floods. Stand at its centre Théâtre Antique (c AD
between cavalrymen and and gaze up at the walled, 20). To make sense of the
foot soldiers. cobbled-street hilltop Cité remains (and gather your
For bird’s-eye views Médiévale, or down at the audioguide), head for the
of the theatre – and phe- fast-flowing Ouvèze River . archaeological museum,
nomenal vistas of rocky Vaison-la-Romaine is which revives Vaison’s
Mont Ventoux and the tucked between seven val- Roman past with an
Dentelles – follow montée leys and has long been a incredible swag – superb
Philbert de Chalons, or place of trade. The ruined mosaics, carved masks, PROVENCE & SOUTHEAST FRANCE 21 ROMAN PROVENCE
montée Lambert, up remains of Vasio Voconti- and statues that include
Colline St-Eutrope, once orum, the Roman city that a 3rd-century silver bust
the ever-vigilant Romans’ flourished here between and marble renderings of
lookout point. the 6th and 2nd centuries Hadrian and his wife, Sa-
To the town’s north, BC, fill two central Gallo- bina. Admission includes
the Arc de Triomphe Roman sites (%04 90 36 entry to the soothing
stands on the ancient Via 50 48; www.provenceromaine. 12th-century Romanesque
Agrippa (now the busy com; adult/child incl all ancient cloister at Cathédrale
N7), 19m high and wide, sites, museum & cathedral Notre-Dame de Nazareth
and a stonking 8m thick. €8/4; h9.30am-6.30pm (cloister only €1.50; h10am-
Restored in 2009, its rich- Jun-Sep, 9.30am-6pm Apr & 12.30pm & 2-6pm Mar-Dec), a
ly animated reliefs com- May, 10am-noon & 2-5.30pm five-minute walk west of
memorate 49 BC Roman Oct-Mar). Dual neighbour- La Villasse and, like much
victories with images of hoods lie on either side of Provence, built on Ro-
battles, ships, trophies, of the tourist office and man foundations.
and chained, naked and av du Général-de-Gaulle.
utterly subdued Gauls. The Romans shopped at 54 p245
4 p245
The Drive » Northeast, the ROMAN PROVENCE READING
D975 passes through gentle LIST
vineyard-lined valleys for 40
minutes, with views of the
Dentelles de Montmirail’s » The Roman Provence Guide (Edwin Mullins)
limestone ridges along the » The Roman Remains of Southern France (James
way (the D977 and D23 can be Bromwich)
equally lovely). Parking in Vaison
can be a trial; nab a spot by the » Southern France: An Oxford Archaeological Guide
tourist office (place du Chanoine (Henry Cleere)
Saute), or try below the western » Ancient Provence: Layers of History in Southern
walls of the Cité Médiévale, if
you don’t mind a walk. France (Jeffrey Wolin)

243

Eating & Sleeping


style. Bedrooms have modern-meets-heritage
Nîmes 1 decor and a choice of street views or an outlook
over the grand place d’Assas. They’re split into
5 Le Cerf à Moustache Bistro €€ standard and superior; it’s worth bumping up a
(%09 81 83 44 33; www.lecerfamoustache. level for extra space and air-con. The downstairs
com; 38 bd Victor Hugo; 2-/3-course lunch restaurant, La Boduegita, offers solid Med
menus €15.80/19.90, 2-/3-course dinner menus dining.
€25.90/30.90; h11.45am-2pm & 7.45-10pm
Mon-Sat) The Deer with the Moustache has
established itself as one of Nîmes’ best bistros, Arles 3
with quirky decor (including reclaimed furniture Bistro €€
and a wall of sketch-covered old books), 5 Le Gibolin
matched by chef Julien Salem’s creative take on (%04 88 65 43 14; 13 rue des Porcelets; lunch
the classics (Aveyronnais steak with St-Marcellin menu €16, dinner menus €27-34; h12.15-2pm
cream, rabbit ballotine with crushed potatoes & 8-10.30pm Tue-Sat) After spending three
and garlic, white-chocolate mousse with decades plying Paris with their passion for
mandarin meringue) and 60 wines by the glass. organic wines, owners Brigitte and Luc decided
to head south and open a new bistro and wine
5 Vincent Croizard Gastronomy €€€ bar in Arles. Unsurprisingly, it’s become a
(%04 66 67 04 99; www.restaurantcroizard. much-loved local fixture, known for its hearty
com; 17 rue des Chassaintes; lunch menus home cooking and peerless wine list (mostly
€23-28, dinner menus €48-70, mains €28; available by the glass).
h7.45-9.30pm Tue, noon-1.45pm & 7.45-
9.30pm Wed-Sat, noon-1.45pm Sun) From its 5 L’Atelier Jean-Luc
discreet facade on a quiet side street you’d Rabanel Gastronomy €€€
never guess that this restaurant is home to an (%04 90 91 07 69; www.rabanel.com; 7 rue des
PROVENCE & SOUTHEAST FRANCE 21 ROMAN PROVENCE
impossibly romantic lamplit courtyard garden Carmes; menus €85-145; hsittings begin noon-
and some of Nîmes’ most inventive and artistic 1pm & 8-9pm Wed-Sun) Offering as much an
high-end cooking. Dishes use premium produce artistic experience as a meal (and graced with
(black truffles, Aveyron suckling lamb, milk-fed double Michelin stars), this is the gastronomic
veal and Bouzigues oysters); rare vintages and home of charismatic chef Jean-Luc Rabanel.
limited releases from small-scale producers Many products are sourced from the chef’s
make up the wine list. veg patch and wine pairings are an adventure
in themselves. Half-day cooking classes are
4 Hôtel des Tuileries Hotel € also available, with/without lunch €200/145.
(%04 66 21 31 15; www.hoteldestuileries. Next door, Rabanel’s À Côté (%04 90 47 61
com; 22 rue Roussy; d/tr/f from €72/90/115; 13; www.bistro-acote.com; 21 rue des Carmes;
paW) Nîmes’ best deal is this delightful, menus €32; hnoon-1.30pm & 7.30-9pm daily)
bargain-priced 11-room hotel strolling distance offers bistro fare.
from Les Arènes. Individually decorated rooms
are spacious and spotless, and some have 4 Grand Hôtel
covered balconies. Breakfast costs €8. Its Nord Pinus Heritage Hotel €€€
private parking garage (€10) is located just (%04 90 93 44 44; www.nord-pinus.com; place
down the street, but there are only five car du Forum; r €170-420) An Arlésian landmark,
spaces, so reserve ahead. this classy hotel has been frequented by
everyone from famous bullfighters to artists
4 Royal Hôtel Hotel €€ and writers like Picasso, Hemingway, Jean
(%04 66 58 28 27; www.royalhotel-nimes. Cocteau and Fritz Lang. It’s chock-full of
com; 3 bd Alphonse Daudet; d €85-105, f €190; heritage: wrought-iron beds, art deco sinks,
aW) This upmarket hotel offers grace and 20th-century furniture and vintage féria


244

posters, as well as black-and-white photographs
by Peter Beard downstairs. Room 10 is the Vaison-la-Romaine 6
grandest, and the bullfighters’ favourite.
5 Bistro du’O Bistro €€
(%04 90 41 72 90; www.bistroduo.fr; rue du
Glanum 4 Château; lunch/dinner menus from €19/32;
hnoon-2pm & 7.30-10pm Tue-Sat) Gosh, this
5 La Cuisine des place knows how to impress. First the setting:
Anges Bistro €€ a vaulted cellar in the medieval city (once the
(%04 90 92 17 66; www.angesetfees-stremy. château stables). Then the food: local and
com; 4 rue du 8 Mai 1945; 2-course menu €25-27, seasonal, rooted in the classics but contemporary
3-course menu €29; hnoon-2.30pm & 7.30- in style, and dictated by what talented young chef
11pm Mon, Wed, Sat & Sun, 7.30-11pm Thu & Fri; Philippe Zemour has found in the market. The
aW) Packed with locals and tourists, this menu’s short, but full of surprises: we loved it.
casual maison d’hôte (B&B) has been around
for an age and just doesn’t lose its edge. Light 5 La Lyriste Provençal €€
Provençal dishes are derived from organic local (%04 90 36 04 67; 45 cours Taulignan; menus
ingredients and served in the interior patio €14.50-28; hnoon-2.30pm & 7-9.30pm Tue &
or wooden-floored dining room with textured Thu-Sun; v) Nothing world-changing here, but
paintings and zinc-topped tables. Upstairs is tasty regional food from bourride (fish stew) to
a cute B&B, Le Sommeil des Fées ( r incl brandade de cabillaud (cod kebabs), laced with PROVENCE & SOUTHEAST FRANCE 21 ROMAN PROVENCE
breakfast €65-85). lashings of olive oil, tomatoes and Provençal
herbs. Unusually, there’s generally a good choice
of veggie options on offer. The plane-tree-shaded
Orange 5 terrace tables are the ones to ask for.
4 Hôtel l’Herbier 4 Hôtel Burrhus Hotel €
d’Orange Hotel € (%04 90 36 00 11; www.burrhus.com; 1 place
(%04 90 34 09 23; www.lherbierdorange.com; 8 de Montfort; d €65-98, apt €140; paW)
place aux Herbes; s €57, d €61-70, tr €77, f €90; As much art gallery as hotel, this imaginative
paiW) On a quiet, tree-shaded square, and exciting place zings with modern artwork,
this small, simple hotel makes a pleasant base sculptures, funky furniture and fun decorative
in Orange, with 20 bright, colourful rooms, details, like the terracotta pot suspended above
livened up with jolly fabrics and tiled floors. The the interior patio. Rooms are divided into three
stone-walled breakfast room is attractive too. size categories, all brimming with interest.
Breakfast is copious, and good value at €9.





















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Location Caption details to go here

/ GETTY IMAGES ©

#



Lavender Route 22





Banish thoughts of grandma’s closet. Get out among the purple
haze, sniff the heady summer breezes and navigate picturesque
hilltop towns, ancient churches and pretty valleys.

TRIP HIGHLIGHTS
4–5 DAYS
4 km 217KM / 135 MILES
Abbaye Notre-Dame
de Sénanque
Dreamy 12th-century GREAT FOR…
abbey framed by
rows of lavender JBH

50 km
Sault BEST TIME TO GO
Stop off for wonderful July is purple prime
# sweets and nougat time, but June’s
4
#
##
blooms still impress.
Banon #
# Forcalquier I ESSENTIAL
## #
# PHOTO
8
## #
# The road just north of
2
# Gordes Plateau de Sault is a particularly
# #l L Valensole stunning spot.
#
1
# m K
K BEST FOR
OUTDOORS
Coustellet Prieuré de Salagon Mont Ventoux has
Rolling lavender fields Wander round a
and a lavender-themed medieval herb brilliant hiking trails
museum garden and is hallowed ground
0 km 135 km for cycling fans.
Plat 247
Location Caption details to go hereeau de Valensole Lavender fields

TRIP HIGHLIGHT
Lavender
22 Route 1 Coustellet
Our trail begins just
outside the village of
Coustellet at the Musée
de la Lavande (%04 90 76
The Luberon and Vaucluse may be well- 91 23; www.museedelalavande.
trodden (and driven) destinations, but you’ll be com; D2, Coustellet; adult/
child €6.80/free; h9am-7pm
surprised at how rustic they remain. This trip May-Sep, 9am-noon & 2-6pm
takes you to the undoubtedly big-ticket (and Oct-Apr), an excellent eco-
museum and working
exquisitely beautiful) sights but also gets you lavender farm, where you
exploring back roads, sleepy villages, big skies can take a guided tour
of the lavender fields,
and one stunner of a mountain. And yes, past learn about extraction
fields and fields of glorious purple blooms. methods and buy laven-
der goodies in the on-site





# e 0 0 10 miles 20 km
# ] Vaison-la-
Romaine
Mt Serein Mont
(1445m) R Ventoux
#
5
VAUCLUSE Beaumont #
# \
du Ventoux 0 ¸
D974
0 ¸ D164
Le Barroux 0 ¸
# \
D164
Beaumes
de Venise # \ / · # Sault 0 ¸
D950
#
4
D1
Châteauneuf 0 ¸
du Pape # \ Carpentras D943
# \
PROVENCE
D230
Sorgues # \ / · # \ Venasque 0 ¸ 0 ¸
D943
D3
Simiane-
0 ¸ 0 ¸ Lagarde d'Apt # \ la-Rotonde # \
D177
/ · Sorgue Abbaye D244 # \ # \Murs
A7
#
3
Notre-Dame
D4
# ] Avignon de Sénanque# / · / · # St-Saturnin-lès-Apt
2
D2
F G L'Isle-sur- # c
21
la-Sorgue # \ Gordes # \ Roussillon Gargas Parc Naturel
# \
Coustellet 0 ¸ 0¸ Apt Régional du Luberon
D149
D900
/ · l L # \ Goult Saignon # \
# \
# \ #
# 1
D22
Sivergues Calavon
# \ Cavaillon # \ # \ # \ Auribeau
Bonnieux # \ Buoux R
Mourre Nègre
(1125m)
# \ Cucuron