Lonely Planet France’s Best Trips (Travel Guide)

ANTON_IVANOV / SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Monet’s

Normandy 7





This eclectic trip takes art-lovers on a fascinating spin around
eastern Normandy. En route you’ll hit the key landscapes and
cities that inspired Monet, the father of impressionism.

TRIP HIGHLIGHTS
4 DAYS
223 km 290KM / 180 MILES
Étretat
Phenomenal views of
the dramatic coastline GREAT FOR…
HB
Dieppe
#
#
St-Valery- BEST TIME TO GO
# en-Caux
# # #
# Fécamp Any time from
6
September to June
for perfectly nuanced
Le Havre # 70 km light.
# # #
# # #
2
Deauville- # # Rouen
8
m K
Trouville # magnificent cathedral I ESSENTIAL
Museums and a
PHOTO
Snap the truly
# # #lL extraordinary coastal
# 1 vista from the clifftop
in Étretat.
Honfleur BEST FOR
A wonderfully Giverny K
picturesque harbour The cradle of CULTURE
town impressionism Rouen has plenty of
276 km 0 km top-quality museums
and historic buildings.
R Location Caption details to go hereouen Historic capital of Normandy 99

TRIP HIGHLIGHT
Monet’s
7 Normandy 1 Giverny
The tiny country village
of Giverny is a place of
pilgrimage for devotees
of impressionism. Monet
Be prepared for a visual feast on this three-day lived here from 1883 until
trip around the eastern part of Normandy – the his death in 1926, in a
rambling house – sur-
cradle of impressionism. Starting from the rounded by flower-filled
village of Giverny, location of the most celebrated gardens – that’s now
the immensely popular
garden in France, you’ll follow in the footsteps of Maison et Jardins de
Monet and other impressionist megastars, taking Claude Monet (%02 32 51
28 21; www.fondation-monet.
in medieval Rouen, the dramatic Côte d’Albâtre, com; 84 rue Claude Monet;
Le Havre, Honfleur and Trouville. This is your adult/child €9.50/5.50, incl
Musée des Impressionnismes
chance to see first-hand why so many painters Giverny €16.50/8.50;
have been attracted to this place. Somm


# e 0 0 20 miles
40 km
D925
Varengeville- 0 ¸
#
# ] Dieppe
3
English Channel Veulettes- sur-Mer #
(La Manche) sur-Mer # \ # # \
4
A28
# \ # / ·
Fécamp St-Valery
Yport # en Caux 0 ¸ Neufchâtel-
#
5
# \ A151 en-Bray
# \ #
6
Étretat # Forêt # \
Yerville # \ Tôtes d'Eawy
0 ¸ F G / · # \ # \
A29
D940
10
Yvetot
Barentin Forges- les-Eaux # \
Harfleur Parc Naturel Régional # \
Le Havre # 7 # ] # # \ des Boucles de la HAUTE-NORMANDIE
Baie de Seine Normande
la Seine Seine
Honfleur # Pont- Brotonne Rouen # Forêt de
Forêt de
# ] #
8
# ^ #
2
Deauville- # Audemer / · 0 ¸ Lyons # \ Lyons-
m K
9
D6014
A13
F G Trouville # # \ La Bouille # \ la-Forêt
8
# \ Pont- l'Évêque
/ · S Les
A13
# ^ Caen Touques Brionne # \ Louviers # ] eine # \ Andelys
# ] Lisieux / · Forêt de
Vernon
A13
BASSE- / · EURE Vernon
A28
NORMANDIE 0 ¸ # ] Bernay # ]
D579
0 ¸ Orbec Forêt de l L
Charentonne Beaumont # ^ Evreux # ]
#
# \ Giverny
# 1
N158
# \ Livarot
# \
en-Ouche
la-Jolie
# ] Falaise # \ # \ Conches- Mantes-
Camembert Forêt de Ito n
Breteuil
ORNE Risle

h9.30am-6pm Easter-Oct). of his works, including The Drive » Follow signs to
His pastel-pink house and one of his studies of the Dieppe. Count on 45 minutes for
Water Lily studio stand stunning Gothic cathe- the 65km trip.
on the periphery of the dral (www.cathedrale-rouen.
garden (called ‘Clos Nor- net; place de la Cathédrale;
mand’), with its symmet- h2-7pm Mon, 9am-7pm Tue- 3 Dieppe
rically laid-out gardens Sat, 8am-6pm Sun Apr-Oct, Sandwiched between
bursting with flowers. shorter hours Nov-Mar), are limestone cliffs, Dieppe
displayed at the splendid is a small-scale fishing
The Drive » It’s a 70km trip
(one hour) to Rouen. Head Musée des Beaux-Arts port with a pleasant
to Vernon and follow signs to (%02 35 71 28 40; www. seafront promenade.
Rouen along the A13. A more mbarouen.fr; esplanade Marcel Still used by fishing
scenic (but longer) route is via Duchamp; h10am-6pm Wed- vessels but dominated
Les Andelys, along the east bank Mon). Feeling inspired? by pleasure craft, the
of the Seine. Sign up for an art class port makes for a bracing
with the tourist office sea-air stroll. High above
TRIP HIGHLIGHT (%02 32 08 32 40; www. the city on the western
2 Rouen rouentourisme.com; 25 place cliff, the 15th-century NORMANDY & BRITTANY 7 MONET’S NORMANDY
de la Cathédrale; h9am-7pm
Château-musée (%02 35
With its elegant spires Mon-Sat, 9.30am-12.30pm & 06 61 99; www.dieppe.fr; rue
and atmospheric medi- 2-6pm Sun May-Sep, 9.30am- de Chastes; adult/child €4.50/
eval quarter complete 12.30pm & 1.30-6pm Mon-Sat free; h10am-noon & 2-5pm
with narrow lanes and Oct-Apr) and create your Wed-Mon Oct-May, 10am-6pm
wonky half-timbered own Rouen Cathedral Jun-Sep) is the town’s
houses, it’s no wonder canvas from the very most imposing landmark.
that Rouen has inspired room in which Monet Monet immortalised
numerous painters, painted his series of that Pourville, a seaside
including Monet. Some building. village on the western
If you’re at all inter- outskirts of Dieppe.
ested in architectural
LINK glories, the 14th-century The Drive » Take the
scenic coastal roads (D75 and
YOUR Abbatiale St-Ouen (place D68), rather than the inland
TRIP du Général de Gaulle; h10am- D925, via the resort towns of
noon & 2-6pm Tue-Thu, Sat & Pourville, Varengeville-sur-Mer,
a Tour des Sun), which is a marvel- Quiberville, St-Aubin-sur-Mer,
Sotteville-sur-Mer and Veules-
lous example of the Ray-
Fromages
From Honfleur or Rouen onnant Gothic style, is a les-Roses (35km, 45 minutes).
you can embark on a must-see abbey. There’s
gastronomic drive, and also much Joan of Arc 4 St-Valery en Caux
taste and learn about lore in Rouen (she was
some of the best cheese executed here in 1431). You’re now in the heart of
in France at various For the story of her life the scenic Côte d’Albâtre
cheese museums. don’t miss the spectacu- (Alabaster Coast), which
lar audio-visual displays stretches from Dieppe
8 D-Day’s Beaches in the Historial Jeanne southwest to Étretat.
From Trouville, it’s d’Arc (%02 35 52 48 00; With its lofty bone-white
an easy 50km drive west www.historialjeannedarc.fr; cliffs, this wedge of coast
to Caen, the obvious 7 rue St-Romain; adult/child is a geological wonder
starting point for the €10/7; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun). world that charmed a
D-Day beaches. generation of impression-
54 p105, p131 ists, including Monet.

101

Once you get a glimpse of
sweet little St-Valery en / GETTY IMAGES ©
Caux, with its delightful
port, lovely stretch of DADO DANIELA / GETTY IMAGES ©
stony beach and majestic
cliffs, you’ll see why.
The Drive » Take the coastal
road (D79) via Veulettes-sur-
Mer. Count on an hour for the
36km trip.

5 Fécamp
After all that driving
along the Côte d’Albâtre,
it’s time to stop for a
glass of Bénédictine at
the Palais de la Bénédic-
tine (%02 35 10 26 10; www.
benedictinedom.com; 110 rue
Alexandre Le Grand; adult/child
€8.50/3.50; htickets sales
10.30-11.30am & 2.30-4.30pm
mid-Dec–mid-Apr, longer hours
mid-Apr–mid-Dec, closed
NORMANDY & BRITTANY 7 MONET’S NORMANDY
early Jan–mid-Feb). Opened
in 1900, this unusually
ornate factory is where all
the Bénédictine liqueur in
the world is made.
Be sure to drive up
north to Cap Fagnet
(110m), which offers
gobsmacking views of the
town and the coastline.
The Drive » Follow signs to
Étretat (17km, along the D940). the Falaise d’Aval to The Drive » Follow signs to Le
You could also start on the the southwest and the Havre (28km, along the D940
D940 and turn off onto the more Falaise d’Amont to the and the D147). Count on about
scenic D11 (via Yport).
northeast, will stick in half an hour for the journey.
your memory. Once at the
TRIP HIGHLIGHT top, you’ll pinch yourself
6 Étretat to see if it’s real – the 7 Le Havre
Is Étretat the most entic- views are sensational. It was in Le Havre that
ing town in Normandy? Such irresistible scenery Monet painted the defin-
made Étretat a favourite
ing impressionist view.
It’s picture postcard of painters, especially His 1873 canvas of the
everywhere you look. Monet, who produced harbour at dawn was
The dramatic white cliffs more than 80 canvases of entitled Impression:
that bookend the town,
the scenery here. Sunrise. Monet wouldn’t
102

Honfleur Boats on the Old Harbour
recognise present-day Le Sat & Sun), which houses a 54 p105
Havre: all but obliterated truly fabulous collection
in September 1944 by of impressionist works, The Drive » Follow signs to
Pont de Normandie, which links
Allied bombing raids, the with canvases by Monet, Le Havre to Honfleur (toll €5.40).
city centre was totally Eugène Boudin, Camille
redesigned after the war Corot and many more.
by Belgian architect Au- Then take in the Église TRIP HIGHLIGHT
guste Perret. Make sure St-Joseph (bd François 1er; 8 Honfleur
you visit the Musée d’Art h10am-6pm), a modern Honfleur is exquisite to
Moderne André Malraux church whose interior is look at. (No, you’re not
(MuMa; %02 35 19 62 72; 2 bd a luminous work of art – dreaming!) Its heart is
Clemenceau; adult/child incl thanks to 13,000 panels the amazingly pictur-
audioguide €5/free; h11am- of coloured glass on its esque Vieux Bassin (Old
6pm Mon & Wed-Fri, to 7pm walls and tower.

103

CLAUDE MONET

The undisputed leader of the impressionists, Claude Monet was born in Paris in
1840 and grew up in Le Havre, where he found an early affinity with the outdoors.
From 1867 Monet’s distinctive style began to emerge, focusing on the effects of
light and colour and using the quick, undisguised broken brushstrokes that would
characterise the impressionist period. His contemporaries were Pissarro, Renoir,
Sisley, Cézanne and Degas. The young painters left the studio to work outdoors,
experimenting with the shades and hues of nature, and arguing and sharing
ideas. Their work was far from welcomed by critics; one of them condemned it as
‘impressionism’, in reference to Monet’s Impression: Sunrise when exhibited in 1874.
From the late 1870s Monet concentrated on painting in series, seeking to
recreate a landscape by showing its transformation under different conditions of
light and atmosphere. In 1883 Monet moved to Giverny, planting his property with
a variety of flowers around an artificial pond, the Jardin d’Eau, in order to paint
the subtle effects of sunlight on natural forms. It was here that he painted the
Nymphéas (Water Lilies) series.
For more info on Monet and his work, visit www.giverny.org.


Harbour), from where 5.30pm Wed-Mon & 10am-noon which are only separated
explorers once set sail for Sat & Sun Nov-May). Honfleur by a bridge but main-
the New World. Marvel at was also the birthplace tain distinctly different
the extraordinary 15th- of composer Erik Satie. personalities. Exclusive,
century wooden Église The fascinating Les expensive and brash,
NORMANDY & BRITTANY 7 MONET’S NORMANDY
Ste-Catherine (place Ste- Maisons Satie (%02 31 89 Deauville is packed with
Catherine; h9am-5.15pm or 11 11; www.musees-honfleur. designer boutiques,
later), complete with a roof fr; 67 bd Charles V & 90 rue deluxe hotels and public
that from the inside re- Haute; adult/child €6.20/ gardens of impossible
sembles an upturned boat, free; h10am-7pm Wed-Mon neatness, and is home
then wander the warren May-Sep, to 6pm Oct-Apr) is to two racetracks and a
of flower-filled cobbled packed with surrealist high-profile American
streets lined with wooden surprises, all set to his film festival.
and stone buildings. ethereal compositions. Trouville, another
Honfleur’s graceful 54 p105, p131 veteran beach resort,
beauty has inspired is more down to earth.
numerous painters, The Drive » From Honfleur During the 19th century
including Eugène Boudin, it’s a 14km trip to Trouville along the town was frequented
an early impressionist the D513 (about 20 minutes). by writers and painters,
painter born here in 1824, including Monet, who
and Monet. Their works spent his honeymoon
are displayed at the 9 Deauville- here in 1870. No doubt
Musée Eugène Boudin Trouville he was lured by the
(%02 31 89 54 00; www. Finish your impression- picturesque port, the
musees-honfleur.fr; 50 rue de ist road trip in style by 2km-long sandy beach
l’Homme de Bois; adult/child heading southwest to the lined with opulent villas,
Jun-Oct €7.50/free, Nov-May twin seaside resorts of and the laid-back seaside
€5.80/4.30; h10am-1pm & Deauville and Trouville, ambience.
2-6pm Wed-Mon Jun-Oct, 2.30-


104

Eating & Sleeping


4 Hôtel Vent
Rouen 2 d’Ouest Boutique Hotel €€
(%02 35 42 50 69; www.ventdouest.fr; 4 rue
5 Bar à Huitres Seafood € de Caligny; d €100-150, ste €170, q €215, apt
(place du Vieux Marché; mains €10-16, oysters €185; W) Decorated with maritime flair, this
per half-dozen/dozen from €10/17; h10am-2pm stylish establishment has nautical memorabilia
Tue-Sat) For remarkably fresh seafood, grab a downstairs, and cheerfully painted rooms
seat at the horseshoe-shaped bar at this casual upstairs with sisal flooring and attractive
but polished eatery located inside Rouen’s furnishings; ask for one with a balcony. There
covered market. Specials change daily based are lovely common areas where you can while
on what’s fresh, from giant shrimp to dorado away the hours when the weather inevitably
and fillet of sole, all cooked up to perfection. sours, including an enticing cafe-bar with leather
Don’t neglect the restaurant’s namesake – armchairs. There’s a restaurant and a spa on-site.
the satisfying huîtres (oysters) with several
different varieties on offer. NORMANDY & BRITTANY 7 MONET’S NORMANDY
4 La Boulangerie B&B € Honfleur 8
(%06 12 94 53 15; www.laboulangerie.fr; 59 5 La Fleur de Sel Gastronomy €€€
rue St-Nicaise; s from €67, d €77-92, q €154 incl (%02 31 89 01 92; www.lafleurdesel-honfleur.com;
breakfast; pW) Tucked into a quiet side street 17 rue Haute; menus €32-62; hnoon-1.30pm &
1.2km northeast of the cathedral, this adorable 7.15-9pm & Wed-Sun) Honfleur-raised Vincent
B&B, above an historic bakery, has three bright, Guyon cooked in some of Paris’ top kitchens
pleasingly decorated rooms, adorned with before returning to his hometown to make good
artwork and attractive details (such as exposed and open his own (now celebrated) restaurant.
beam ceilings). Your charming host Aminata is a Guyon uses the highest quality locally sourced
gold mine of local information. Parking available ingredients and plenty of invention (with roast
for €5.
meats and wild-caught seafood featuring ginger
and kaffir-lime vinaigrettes, Camembert foams
and hazelnut tempura) in his beautifully crafted
Le Havre 7 dishes. Reserve ahead.
5 La Taverne 4 La Maison
Paillette Brasserie €€ de Lucie Boutique Hotel €€€
(%02 35 41 31 50; www.taverne-paillette. (%02 31 14 40 40; www.lamaisondelucie.com;
com; 22 rue Georges Braque; lunch menu €15, 44 rue des Capucins; d €170-200, ste €250-330;
mains €16-26; hnoon-midnight daily) Solid pW) This marvellous little hideaway has just
brasserie food is the order of the day at this Le nine rooms and three suites, which ensures
Havre institution – think big bowls of mussels, intimacy. Some of the bedrooms, panelled in
generous salads, gargantuan seafood platters oak, have Moroccan-tile bathrooms and boast
and, in the Alsatian tradition, eight types of fantastic views across the harbour to the Pont
choucroute (sauerkraut). Situated five blocks de Normandie. The shady terrace is a glorious
north of Église St-Joseph, at the northeast place for a summer breakfast. There’s a chic
corner of a park called Le Square St-Roch. jacuzzi in the old brick-vaulted cellar. No lift.









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Location Caption details to go here

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BERTL123 / SHUTTERSTOCK ©
D-Day’s Beaches 8








Explore the events of D-Day, when Allied troops stormed ashore
to liberate Europe from Nazi occupation. From war museums to
landing beaches, it’s a fascinating and sobering experience.

TRIP HIGHLIGHTS
3 DAYS
88 km 142KM / 88 MILES
Omaha Beach
Pay your respects at GREAT FOR…
the American
B
Cemetery & Memorial

Utah
m K BEST TIME TO GO
Beach
April to July, to avoid
summer-holiday
#
# traffic around the
8
# # #
# beaches.
# # # 7
Carentan # #
Isigny- Sully #
sur-Mer ESSENTIAL
I PHOTO
l L Standing next to
#
# # # 1
the German guns at
Longues-sur-Mer.
Pointe du Hoc Caen K BEST FOR
HISTORY
Wander amongst shell Visit an award-winning
craters that haven't multimedia D-Day The Caen Mémorial
changed since D-Day museum provides you with a
98 km 0 km comprehensive D-Day
overview.
O Location Caption details to go heremaha Normandy American Cemetery & Memorial 107

8 D-Day’s Beaches




The beaches and bluffs are quiet today, but on 6 June 1944 the Normandy
shoreline witnessed the arrival of the largest armada the world has ever
seen. This patch of the French coast will forever be synonymous with D-Day
(known to the French as Jour-J), and the coastline is strewn with memorials,
museums and cemeteries – reminders that though victory was won on the
Longest Day, it came at a terrible price.
# \
# \



# \ Valognes
English Channel
# \ Montebourg (La Manche)
/ ·
D14
/ ·
N13
m K
Utah Beach
Ste-Mère-
# \ #
9
# \ # Pointe
St-Sauveur- Église Vierville-
# \ du Hoc
le-Vicomte Grandcamp- sur-Mer
0 ¸ Baie Maisy # \ # 0 ¸ Omaha
#
8
D514
D913
0 ¸ des Veys # \ Beach Port-en-
# \ D900 St-Laurent- # \ Bessin-
# \ #
sur-Mer # 7 # \ Huppain
Parc Naturel Isigny- # \ Russy # \
Douve
N13
Régional des sur-Mer La Cambe / · # \ # \
La Haye- Marais du Cotentin # \
# \ # \
du-Puits et du Bessin Carentan Le Grand Maisons # \
Hameau
Sully # \
MANCHE
BASSE- # ]
H NORMANDIE
#
# \ Lessay p114 # \ Le Moray-
Littry
Le Hommet-
d'Arthenay Forêt de
Periers # \ # \ Cerisy
/ · 0 ¸ 0 ¸ # \ Balleroy
D2
D971
D900
0 ¸
St-Lô D572
# ^
Caumont-
# \ l'Éventé
0 ¸
# \ Coutances D999 Vire
# \

in a purpose- designed Normandy. A second sec-
TRIP HIGHLIGHT building covering 14,000 tion focuses on the Cold
1 Caen sq metres, the memo- War. There’s also the
Situated 3km northwest rial offers an immersive well-preserved original
bunker used by German
experience, using sound,
of Caen, the award- lighting, film, animation command in 1944.
winning Mémorial – Un and audio testimony to On your way around,
Musée pour la Paix evoke the grim reali- look out for an original
(Memorial – A Museum for ties of war, the trials of Typhoon fighter plane
Peace; %02 31 06 06 44; www. occupation and the joy of and a full-size Sherman
memorial-caen.fr; esplanade liberation. tank.
Général Eisenhower; adult/child The visit begins with
€20/17; h9am-7pm daily early a whistle-stop overview 54 p115
Feb-early Nov, 9.30am-6.30pm of Europe’s descent into The Drive » From the
Tue-Sun early Nov- early Feb, total war, tracing events museum, head northeast
closed 3 weeks in Jan) is a from the end of WWI along Esplanade Brillaud de
brilliant place to begin through to the rise of Laujardière, and follow signs
with some background fascism in Europe, the to Ouistreham. You’ll join the NORMANDY & BRITTANY 8 D-DAY’S BEACHES
on the historic events German occupation of E46 ring road; follow it to exit
of D-Day, and the wider France and the Battle of 3a (Porte d’Angleterre), and
context of WWII. Housed merge onto the D515 and D84
to Ouistreham. Park on the
seafront on bd Aristide Briand.
In all it’s a trip of 18km.

# e 0 0 10 miles 20 km
2 Ouistreham
On D-Day, the sandy sea-
front around Ouistreham
was code named Sword
Baie de Beach and was the focus
la Seine


LINK
Longues- YOUR
sur-Mer Juno & Gold TRIP
# \ # 0¸
# \ Beaches Courseulles-
# # D514 # sur-Mer
# \ #
5
4
#
3
Arromanches # \ Essential France
# \ 1
# \ Crepon Rade de
The island abbey of
# \ Douvres Caen Mont St-Michel is about
# Beny- / · # \ 140km from the Normandy
# ] Bayeux
D79
#
6
# \
# \
sur-Mer Ouistreham # coastline, about two hours’
# ] #
2
0 ¸ drive via the A84 motorway.
D514
F G l L # \ Ranville 7 Monet’s Normandy
1
/ · / · From the end of
N13
D6
Fortenay- # 1 # ^ # our Monet-themed trip at
# \ # I
le-Pesnel Caen p132 / · Fécamp, drive southwest on
A13
/ · 30 km to ‚ the A29 and A13 to Caen, a
A84
journey of just under 130km.
0 ¸
7
CALVADOS F G
N158
Orne
Amayé-
# \ Villers- Bocage # \ 109
sur-Ome

Bill Millin piping troops ‘official’ French soldier
ashore while under to set foot in mainland
heavy fire. Europe since 1940. He
was followed by Winston
The Drive » Follow the
seafront west onto rue de Lion, Churchill on 12 June and
following signs for ‘Overlord – King George VI on 16
of attack for the British June. A Cross of Lorraine
3rd Infantry Division. L’Assaut’ onto the D514 towards
Courseulles-sur-Mer, 18km west. marks the historic spot.
There are precious few Drive through town onto rue de The area’s only Cana-
reminders of the battle Ver, and follow signs to ‘Centre dian museum, the Juno
today, but on D-Day the Juno Beach’. Beach Centre (%02 31
scene was very different: 37 32 17; www.junobeach.
most of the surrounding org; voie des Français Libres,
buildings had been level- 3 Juno & Gold Courseulles-sur-Mer; adult/
led by artillery fire, and Beaches child €7/5.50, incl guided
German bunkers and On D-Day, Courseulles- tour of Juno Beach €11/9;
artillery positions were sur-Mer was known as h9.30am-7pm Apr-Sep,
strung out along the Juno Beach, and was 10am-5pm Oct-Mar, closed Jan)
seafront. Sword Beach stormed mainly by Cana- has exhibits on Canada’s
was the site of some of dian troops. It was here role in the war effort and
the most famous images that the exiled French the landings, and offers
of D-Day – including the General Charles de guided tours of Juno
infamous ones of British Gaulle came ashore after Beach (€5.50) from April
troops landing with the landings – the first to October.
bicycles, and bagpiper A short way west is
NORMANDY & BRITTANY 8 D-DAY’S BEACHES
Gold Beach, attacked by
the British 50th Infantry
D-DAY IN FIGURES on D-Day.
Code named ‘Operation Overlord’, the D-Day landings The Drive » Drive west
were the largest military operation in history. On along the D514 for 14km to
the morning of 6 June 1944, swarms of landing Arromanches. You’ll pass a
craft – part of an armada of more than 6000 ships carpark and viewpoint marked
and 13,000 aeroplanes – hit the northern Normandy with a statue of the Virgin Mary,
which overlooks Port Winston
beaches, and tens of thousands of soldiers from the and Gold Beach. Follow the road
USA, the UK, Canada and elsewhere began pouring into town and signs to Musée du
onto French soil. The initial landing force involved Débarquement.
some 45,000 troops; 15 more divisions were to follow
once successful beachheads had been established.
The majority of the 135,000 Allied troops stormed 4 Arromanches
ashore along 80km of beaches north of Bayeux that This seaside town was
were codenamed (from west to east) Utah, Omaha, the site of one of the
Gold, Juno and Sword. The landings were followed great logistical achieve-
by the 76-day Battle of Normandy, during which the ments of D-Day. In order
Allies suffered 210,000 casualties, including 37,000 to unload the vast quan-
troops killed. German casualties are believed to have tities of cargo needed
been around 200,000; another 200,000 German by the invasion forces
soldiers were taken prisoner. About 14,000 French without capturing one
civilians also died. of the heavily defended
For more background and statistics, see www. Channel ports, the Allies
normandiememoire.com and www.6juin1944.com.
set up prefabricated

110

marinas off two landing
beaches, code named D-DAY DRIVING ROUTES
Mulberry Harbour. These
consisted of 146 massive There are several signposted driving routes around
cement caissons towed the main battle sites – look for signs for ‘D-Day-Le
over from England and Choc’ in the American sectors and ‘Overlord –
sunk to form a semi- L’Assaut’ in the British and Canadian sectors. A free
circular breakwater in booklet called The D-Day Landings and the Battle of
which floating bridge Normandy, available from tourist offices, has details
spans were moored. In on the eight main routes.
the three months after Maps of the D-Day beaches are available at tabacs
D-Day, the Mulberries (tobacconists), newsagents and bookshops in
facilitated the unloading Bayeux and elsewhere.
of a mind-boggling 2.5
million men, four million
tonnes of equipment and concrete casements. On soldiers from the UK and
500,000 vehicles. D-Day they were capable 10 other countries – in-
At low tide, the stan- of hitting targets more cluding Germany. Across NORMANDY & BRITTANY 8 D-DAY’S BEACHES
chions of one of these than 20km away – includ- the road is a memorial
artificial quays, Port ing Gold Beach (to the for 1807 Commonwealth
Winston (named after east) and Omaha Beach soldiers whose remains
Winston Churchill), can (to the west). were never found. The
still be seen on the sands Parts of the classic Latin inscription reads:
at Arromanches. D-Day film, The Longest ‘We, whom William once
Beside the beach, the Day (1962), were filmed conquered, have now
Musée du Débarquement here. set free the conqueror’s
(Landing Museum; %02 31 22 The Drive » Backtrack to the native land’.
34 31; www.musee-arroman crossroads and head straight Nearby, the Musée
ches.fr; place du 6 Juin; adult/ over onto the D104, signed to Mémorial de la Bataille
child €7.90/5.80; h9am- Vaux-sur-Aure/Bayeux for 8km. de Normandie (Battle of
12.30pm & 1.30-6pm Apr-Sep, When you reach town, turn right Normandy Memorial Museum;
10am-12.30pm & 1.30-5pm Oct- onto the D613, and follow signs %02 31 51 46 90; www.bayeux
to the ‘Musée de la Bataille de
Mar, closed Jan) explains the Normandie’. museum.com; bd Fabien Ware;
logistics and importance adult/child €7/4; h9.30am-
of Port Winston. 6.30pm May-Sep, 10am-
12.30pm & 2-6pm Oct-Apr,
The Drive » Continue west 6 Bayeux closed Jan-mid-Feb) explores
along the D514 for 6km to the Though best known for the battle through photos,
village of Longues-sur-Mer. You’ll its medieval tapestry, personal accounts, diora-
see the sign for the Batterie de Bayeux has another claim mas and film.
Longues on your right.
to fame: it was the first
town to be liberated after 54 p115
5 Longues-sur-Mer D-Day (on the morning of The Drive » After
7 June 1944).
overnighting in Bayeux, head
At Longues-sur-Mer It’s also home to the northwest of town on the
you can get a glimpse of largest of Normandy’s 18 D6 towards Port-en-Bessin-
the awesome firepower Commonwealth military Huppain. You’ll reach a Super-U
available to the German cemeteries – the Bayeux supermarket after about 10km.
defenders in the shape War Cemetery, situated Go round the roundabout and
of two 150mm artillery on bd Fabien Ware. It turn onto the D514 for another
guns, still housed in their contains 4848 graves of 8km. You’ll see signs to the
‘Cimetière Americain’ near the

111

WHY THIS IS A PAUL THOMPSON / GETTY IMAGES ©
CLASSIC TRIP
OLIVER BERRY,
WRITER
You’ll have heard the D-Day story
many times before, but there’s
nothing quite like standing on the
beaches where this epic struggle
MOIRENC CAMILLE / HEMIS.FR / GETTY IMAGES ©
played out. D-Day marked the
turning point of WWII and heralded
the end for Nazism in Europe. Paying
your respects to the soldiers who
laid down their lives in the name of
freedom is an experience that will
stay with you forever.


Top: Arromanches and Gold Beach
Left & Right: Normandy American Cemetery &
Memorial


112

hamlet of Le Bray. Omaha Beach
is another 4km further on, near
Vierville-sur-Mer.

TRIP HIGHLIGHT
7 Omaha Beach
If anywhere symbolises
GUILLAUME LOUYOT / GETTY IMAGES ©
the courage and sacrifice
of D-Day, it’s Omaha –
still known as ‘Bloody
Omaha’ to US veterans.
It was here, on the 7km
stretch of coastline be-
tween Vierville-sur-Mer,
St-Laurent-sur-Mer and
Colleville-sur-Mer, that
the most brutal fighting NORMANDY & BRITTANY 8 D-DAY’S BEACHES
on D-Day took place. US
troops had to fight their
way across the beach
towards the heavily
defended cliffs, exposed
to underwater obstacles,
hidden minefields and
withering crossfire. The
toll was heavy: of the
2500 casualties at Omaha
on D-Day, more than
1000 were killed, most
within the first hour of
the landings.
High on the bluffs
above Omaha, the
Normandy American
Cemetery & Memorial
(%02 31 51 62 00; www.abmc.
gov; Colleville-sur-Mer; h9am-
6pm mid-Apr–mid-Sep, to 5pm
mid-Sep–mid-Apr) provides a
sobering reminder of the
human cost of the battle.
Featured in the opening
scenes of Saving Private
Ryan, this is the largest
American cemetery in
Europe, containing the
graves of 9387 American
soldiers, and a memorial
to 1557 comrades ‘known
only unto God’.

113

DETOUR:
COUTANCES
Start: 9 Utah Beach
Start off in the very
thoughtfully designed The lovely old Norman town of Coutances makes
a good detour when travelling between the D-Day
visitor centre, which
has moving portrayals beaches and Mont St-Michel. At the town’s heart
is its Gothic Cathédrale de Coutances (http://
of some of the soldiers cathedralecoutances.free.fr; parvis Notre-Dame; h8.30am-
buried here. Afterwards, noon & 2-5.30pm). Interior highlights include several
take in the expanse of 13th-century windows, a 14th-century fresco of St
white marble crosses Michael skewering the dragon, and an organ and high
and Stars of David that altar from the mid-1700s. You can climb the lantern
stretch off in seemingly tower on a tour (adult/child €7/4).
endless rows, surrounded Coutances is about 50km south of Utah Beach by
by an immaculately the most direct route.
tended expanse of lawn.
The Drive » From the Vierville-
sur-Mer seafront, follow the rural attacks. By the time they known as Utah Beach,
D514 through quiet countryside were finally relieved on which was assaulted by
towards Grandcamp-Maisy. After 8 June, 81 of the rangers soldiers of the US 4th and
about 10km you’ll see signs to had been killed and 58 8th Infantry Divisions.
‘Pointe du Hoc’. more had been wounded. The beach was relatively
NORMANDY & BRITTANY 8 D-DAY’S BEACHES
Today the site (%02 lightly defended, and by
TRIP HIGHLIGHT 31 51 90 70; www.abmc.gov; midday the landing force
8 Pointe du Hoc h9am-6pm mid-Apr–mid-Sep, had linked with para-
West of Omaha, this to 5pm rest of year), which troopers from the 101st
France turned over to the
Airborne. By nightfall,
craggy promontory US government in 1979, some 20,000 men and
was the site of D-Day’s looks much as it did on 1700 vehicles had arrived
most audacious military D-Day, complete with on French soil, and the
exploit. At 7.10am, 225 US shell craters and crum- road to European libera-
Army Rangers command- bling gun emplacements. tion had begun.
ed by Lt Col James Earl Today the Utah Beach
Rudder scaled the sheer The Drive » Stay on the D514 site is marked by military
30m cliffs, where the to Grandcamp-Maisy, then memorials and the
Germans had stationed a continue south onto the D13 dual Musée du Débarquement
battery of artillery guns carriageway. Keep going till you (Utah Beach Landing Museum;
reach the turn-off for the D913,
trained onto the beaches signed to St-Marie-du-Mont/ %02 33 71 53 35; www.utah-
of Utah and Omaha. Un- Utah Beach. It’s a 44km drive. beach.com; Ste-Marie du Mont;
fortunately, the guns had adult/child €8/4; h9.30am-
already been moved in- 7pm Jun-Sep, 10am-6pm
land, and Rudder and his 9 Utah Beach Oct-May, closed Jan) inside
men spent the next two The D-Day tour ends at the former German com-
days repelling counter- St-Marie-du-Mont, also mand post.







114

Eating & Sleeping


presented dishes. Choose from the day’s
Caen 1 specials listed on a chalkboard menu, which
might include hits like brandade de morue
5 À Contre (baked codfish pie). It’s a local favourite, so call
Sens Modern French €€ ahead.
(%02 31 97 44 48; www.acontresenscaen.fr; 8 rue 5 Au Ptit
Croisiers; mains €30-35, menus €25-54; hnoon- Bistrot Modern French €€
1.15pm Wed-Sat & 7.30-9.15pm Tue-Sat) A Contre
Sens’s stylish interior and serene atmosphere (%02 31 92 30 08; 31 rue Larcher; lunch menu
belie the hotbed of seething creativity happening €17-20, dinner menu €27-33, mains €16-19;
in the kitchen. Under the helm of chef Anthony hnoon-2pm & 7-9pm Tue-Sat) Near the
Caillot, meals are thoughtfully crafted and cathedral, this friendly, welcoming eatery whips
superbly presented. Recent selections included up creative, beautifully prepared dishes that
pollack cooked in seawater with risotto of highlight the Norman bounty without a lick of
oysters, cabbage and coconut, and a juicy thick- pretension. Recent hits include chestnut soup, NORMANDY & BRITTANY 8 D-DAY’S BEACHES
cut pork chop with carmelised onions. duck breast and bulgur with seasonal fruits
and roasted pineapple, and black cod with
5 Café Mancel Norman €€ spinach and spicy guacamole. Reservations are
(%02 31 86 63 64; www.cafemancel.com; essential.
Château de Caen; menus €18-36; hnoon-10pm 4 Les Logis
Tue-Sat, to 2pm Sun) In the same building as du Rempart B&B €
the Musée des Beaux-Arts, stylish Café Mancel
serves up delicious, traditional French cuisine – (%02 31 92 50 40; www.lecornu.fr; 4 rue
everything from pan-fried Norman-style Bourbesneur; d €60-105, tr €110-130; W) The
beefsteak to hearty Caen-style tripes. Has a three rooms of this delightful maison de famille
lovely sun terrace, which also makes a fine spot ooze old-fashioned cosiness. Our favourite,
for a drink outside of busy meal times. the Bajocasse, has parquet flooring, a canopy
bed and Toile de Jouy wallpaper. The shop
4 Hôtel des Quatrans Hotel €€ downstairs is the perfect place to stock up on
(%02 31 86 25 57; www.hotel-des-quatrans.com; top-quality, homemade cider and calvados
17 rue Gémare; d from €100; W) This typically (apple brandy). Two-night minimum stay.
modern hotel has 47 comfy, unfussy rooms 4 Villa Lara Boutique Hotel €€€
in white and chocolate. Promotional deals are
often available online. (%02 31 92 00 55; www.hotel-villalara.com; 6
place de Québec; d €190-360, ste €390-520;
paW) Newly constructed in the past
Bayeux 6 decade, this 28-room hotel, Bayeux’s most
luxurious, sports minimalist colour schemes,
5 Alchimie Modern French €€ top-quality fabrics and decor that juxtaposes
(lunch menu €12) On a street lined with 18th- and 21st-century tastes. Amenities
restaurants, Alchimie has a simple but elegant include a bar and a gym. Most rooms have
design that takes nothing from the beautifully cathedral views.










115

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
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Location Caption details to go here

HUANG ZHENG / SHUTTERSTCK ©



Breton Coast 9





On this maritime-flavoured drive you’ll experience serene seaside
towns, sparkling beaches, dramatic storm-lashed headlands and
the world’s greatest concentration of megalithic sites.

TRIP HIGHLIGHTS
8 DAYS
290 km 0 km 642KM / 399 MILES
Presqu'île de Crozon St-Malo
Watch giant waves Stroll along the ramparts
batter the cliffs of this for panoramic views over GREAT FOR…
stunning peninsula this walled city
GJB

Roscoff BEST TIME TO GO
# #
# 1 l L April and May can see
# # #
fine sunny weather
and no crowds.
# # #
#
4
I ESSENTIAL
PHOTO
# Quimper
Standing on the
m K precipice of the cliffs
of Pointe du Raz.
# # #
#
9
# # #
# BEST FOR
8
K FAMILIES
Carnac Vannes Splashing about on the
Travel through time Admire the arty and
in the region's fields of alternative streets of beaches of Concarneau
prehistoric megaliths bustling Vannes or Carnac.
542 km 642 km
Brit 117
Location Caption details to go heretany Stone house on the coast

9 Breton Coast




This is a trip for explorers who want to experience # \
a very different slice of French life. Instead of the Ploudalmezeau Lesneven
]
#
]
#
\
#
Eiffel Tower, fine wine and sun-soaked beaches, you’ll Le Folgoët # \
Landerneau
take in a drama-filled coastline, excellent seafood, St-Renan \ # Brest ]
#
]
#
medieval towns, prehistoric mysticism and a proud Camaret- Plougastel-
#
]
Celtic streak. sur-Mer Daoulas # Le
]
#
# #
4
\
Presqu’île ] # Faou
de Crozon # \ Morgat \ #
Baie de Châteaulin ]
#
Pointe Douarnenez
du Raz Douarnenez ] # \
/ ·
#
D7
\
#
Audierne 0¸ Plonévez-
#
\
Porzay
D784
# #
^ #
5
Quimper
Ploneour-Lanvern # \ Benodet
# \ #
]
Pont-l’Abbé
bunkers now houses the
TRIP HIGHLIGHT Mémorial 39-45 (%02 99
1 St-Malo 82 41 74; www.ville-saint-malo.fr;
Once renowned for being Fort de la Cité d’Alet, St-Servan;
a haven for pirates and adult/child €6/3; hguided
adventurers, the enthral- visits 10.15am, 11am, 2pm, 3pm,
ling walled town of 4pm & 5pm Jul-Aug, 2.30pm, A T L A N T I C
St-Malo is today a genteel 3.15pm & 4.30pm Tue-Sun O C E A N
Apr-Jun & Sep, shorter hrs Oct),
mast-filled port hemmed
by pretty beaches and which depicts St-Malo’s
violent WWII history.
guarded by an array of
offshore islands. The 54 p123
walled quarter of Intra- The Drive » The 33km,
Muros is arguably the half-hour drive along the D137 something straight out
most interesting urban between St-Malo and Dinan is of the Middle Ages, with
centre in Brittany, but it’s through a largely built-up area narrow cobblestoned
not as old as it appears. of interest. Be warned that this streets and squares that
Most of the town was flat- road, like most others around are lined with crooked
tened in WWII and has St-Malo, can be subject to heavy half-timbered houses.
been lovingly rebuilt. traffic and delays. The appeal isn’t lost on
Beyond the walls of summer visitors, but
Intra-Muros is the Fort 2 Dinan by around 6pm it’s as
de la Cité, which was though someone has
used as a German base Set high above the fast- waved a magic wand:
during WWII. One of the flowing Rance River, most of the crowds dis-
Dinan’s old town is like
118

0 40 km
# e 0 20 miles English Channel
(La Manche)
Granit RosePerros-
Côte de
Guirec
Roscoff # Treguier Paimpol
]
# Lannion # # \ # \ # \
Baie de
3
#
l
]
0 ¸ D786 St-Quay-
# St-Pol de Leon Lannion 0 ¸ L
\
D786
Portrieux
\
/ · # Morlaix # Brelidy # St-Malo Cancale
]
D69
]
#
]
# 1
Brieuc
N12
# Landivisiau / · Guingamp Baie de St- Dinard # #
\
#
]
]
#
]
St-Brieuc ^
#
Parc Naturel Lamballe Dinan ‚
Régional CÔTES # \ 127 km to
2
] #
d'Armorique Carhaix- D'ARMOR # 0¸ # # F G
N176
8
# \ Plouguer Moncontour # \ \ Jugon- Rance 0¸
Pleyben ] les-Lacs D137 NORMANDY & BRITTANY 9 BRETON COAST
#
\ #
]
# # Châteauneuf # Rostrenen # Plouguenast # \
\
\
\
du Fauo 0 ¸ Becherel
Aulne
N164
\ # Canal de Nantes à Brest Merdrignac
# Gourin
\
FINISTÈRE La-Chèz # \ Montfort-sur-
\ # Meu
D769
0 ¸ Forêt de #
#
^ Scaër # \ 0 ¸ Pontivy \ # # \ Rennes
^
N165
N24
# \ Concarneau MORBIHAN Josselin Paimpont / · # \
]
# \ # # Quimperle # \ ILLE-
#
6
# ] # / · ] Ploërmel ET-VILAINE # \
N24
# 7
#
#
]
Port- Hennebont Locmine Bain de
]
Aven # 0 ¸ La- Bretagne
D126
H
Lorient # # Canal de Nantes à Brest # \
]
Gacilly
\ # p122 \ # Grand-
Louis 0¸ Auray Fougeray
Port-
D781
#
#
Vannes
#
]
9
Bay of Biscay m K Questembert # Redon \ #
#
\
PAYS
Carnac# # Locmariaquer \ DE LA
#
8
\
# Muzillac 200 km to LOIRE
\
# \
Quiberon # \ Sarzeau F G Forêt de
12
Gâvre
Herbignac \ # ‚ # Blain
\
LINK
#
perse and a sense of calm YOUR # \ ] # \ \ #
falls over the town. TRIP
^
#
The Drive » Take the wiggly D-Day’s Beaches Caves & Cellars
and very slow (count on a 8 c of the Loire
3½-hour drive) coastal D786 Combining a drive
between Dinan and Roscoff. around the Breton coast From Vannes it’s 268km
Highlights include the pretty with the war memorials to Montsoreau, where
port of Paimpol and the of Normandy is easy. you can pick up our tour
breathtaking Côte de Granit Caen is 170km along the of the Western Loire’s
Rose, which extends west of the A84 from St-Malo. cave dwellings and wine
town of Perros-Guirec. This leg cellars.
is 220km.
119

MIGHTY MEGALITHS

Two perplexing questions arise from the region’s Neolithic menhirs, dolmens,
cromlechs, tumuli and cairns. Just how did the original constructors hew, then haul
these blocks (the heaviest weighs 300 tonnes), millennia before the wheel and the
mechanical engine reached Brittany? And why?
Theories and hypotheses abound, but common consensus is that they served
some kind of sacred purpose – a spiritual impulse like that behind so many
monuments built by humankind.
Just north of Carnac (p122) there is a vast array of monoliths set up in several
distinct alignments, all visible from the road, though fenced for controlled
admission. The main information point for the Carnac alignments is the Maison
des Mégalithes (%02 97 52 29 81; www.menhirs-carnac.fr; rte des Alignements, D196;
tour adult/child €6/free; h9.30am-8pm Jul & Aug, 10am-5pm Sep-Apr, 9am-6pm May & Jun),
which explores the history of the site and has a rooftop viewpoint overlooking the
alignments. Sign up for a one-hour guided visit; times vary considerably depending
on the time of year but they run several times a day (in French) during the summer.
English tours are available once a week in July and August – call to confirm times.
Opposite the Maison des Mégalithes, the largest menhir field – with 1099
stones – is the Alignements du Ménec, 1km north of Carnac-Ville. From here, the
D196 heads northeast for about 1.5km to the equally impressive Alignements
de Kermario (parts of which are open year-round). Climb the stone observation
tower midway along the site to see the alignment from above.
NORMANDY & BRITTANY 9 BRETON COAST
The Tumulus de Kercado lies just east of Kermario and 500m to the south of
the D196. It’s the massive burial mound of a neolithic chieftain dating from 3800
BC. Deposit your fee (€1) in an honour box at the entry gate. The easternmost of the
major groups is the Alignements de Kerlescan.
Be sure to visit the Musée de Préhistoire (%02 97 52 22 04; www.museedecarnac.
fr; 10 place de la Chapelle, Carnac-Ville; adult/child €6/2.50; h10am-6.30pm Jul & Aug, 10am-
12.30pm & 2-6pm Wed-Mon Apr-Jun & Sep, shorter hours Oct-Mar) in Carnac-Ville to see
incredible neolithic artefacts found throughout the region.

adult/child €5/2.50; h11am- Crozon, the main town on the
3 Roscoff pm Apr-Oct), with more Presqu’île de Crozon. You’ll
follow the western edge of
Set around an arcing than 1500 plants from all the Parc Naturel Régional
harbour studded with five continents. d’Armorique, a beautiful region
Ferries (adult/child
granite cottages and sea- return €9/4, bikes €8, of rocky uplands that joins
front villas, Roscoff is one the Crozon peninsula. Stop at
of the more captivating 15 minutes each way) famous Breton parish closes
between Roscoff and
cross-channel ferry ports. (enclosed churches with special
After you’ve explored Île de Batz run every architecture) at St-Thégonnec,
Guimiliau or Sizun.
the town, set sail for 30 minutes in July and
August; less frequently
the peaceful Île de Batz,
which sits a short way the rest of the year. TRIP HIGHLIGHT
offshore. The mild island 54 p123 4 Presqu’île de
climate supports the lux- Crozon
uriant Jardins Georges The Drive » Taking the
D69, D18 and D791, drive the
Delaselle (%02 98 61 75 65; 86km between Roscoff and With long sweeps of
www.jardin-georgesdelaselle.fr; golden sand, silent loch-
120

ELENA DIJOUR / SHUTTERSTOCK ©












Quimper Place Terre au Duc
like estuaries bordered onto the D7 at Plonévez-Porzay Musée Départemental
by dense forest, pretty and travel 102km, you’ll reach Breton (%02 98 95 21 60;
rocky coves lapped by wonderful Pointe du Raz, one www.museedepartemental
azure waters, and huge of Brittany’s most spectacular breton.fr; 1 rue du Roi Gradlon;
cliffs hammered by slate- rocky points. Then you can adult/child €5/free; h9am-
swing back east on the D784
grey Atlantic swells, the via Audierne for the 60km to 12.30pm & 1.30-5pm Tue-Sat,
anchor-shaped Crozon Quimper. 2-5pm Sun Sep-Jun, 9am-6pm
Peninsula is without daily Jul & Aug) showcases
doubt one of the most Breton history, furniture,
scenic spots in Brittany. 5 Quimper costumes, crafts and
At the western extrem- Small enough to feel like archaeology.
ity of the peninsula, a village, with its slanted The Drive » Rather than
Camaret-sur-Mer is a half-timbered houses and taking the faster N165 between
classic fishing village narrow cobbled streets, Quimper and Concarneau,
that lures artists. Three and large enough to buzz meander along the more scenic
kilometres south of the as the troubadour of D783. Even on this slower road
village is the spectacu- Breton culture and arts, you only need 30 minutes to
lar Pointe de Pen-Hir Quimper is the Finistère travel the 22km.
headland. region’s thriving capital.
Nearby Morgat is one At the centre of the
of the prettier resorts city is the Cathédrale 6 Concarneau
in this part of Brittany, St-Corentin (place St- The sheltered harbour of
with colourful houses Corentin; h8.30am-noon Concarneau is one of the
clustered at one end of a & 1.30-6.30pm Mon-Sat, busiest fishing ports in
long sandy beach. 8.30am-noon & 2-6.30pm Sun), Brittany and is a hugely
4 p123 with its distinctive dip, popular summer holiday
destination. In the mid-
said to symbolise Christ’s
The Drive » Using the D63 inclined head as he was dle of the harbour is the
it’s just 55km from Crozon, the dying on the cross. Beside old quarter of the Ville
main town on the peninsula, the cathedral, the superb Close, encircled by medi-
to Quimper. But if you turn off eval walls and crammed

121

around 100 years. The
area surrounding the
DETOUR: town has 3000 of these
JOSSELIN upright stones – the
world’s largest concentra-
Start: 9 Vannes tion – erected between
In the shadow of an enormous, cone-turreted 14th- 5000 and 3500 BC.
century castle, the story-book village of Josselin
lies on the banks of the Oust River, 43km northeast The Drive » Rather than
of Vannes. Place Notre Dame, a beautiful square taking the N165 to Vannes, opt
for the beautiful coastal route.
of 16th-century half-timbered houses, is the little From Carnac head south to
town’s heart, but it’s for the magnificent Château Carnac Plage and wind east to
de Josselin (%02 97 22 36 45; www.chateaujosselin.com; attractive La Trinité-sur-Mer.
place de la Congrégation; adult/child €9/5.50; h11am-6pm Join the D781 and then the D28
mid-Jul–Aug, 2-6pm Apr–mid-Jul & Sep, 2-5.30pm Sat & Sun inland to Auray (well worth a
Oct) that you’d really make this detour. The treasure- poke around). From here join the
filled château can only be visited by guided tour. D101, which swings into Vannes.
From Vannes it’s an easy one-hour drive along This 40km route takes just over
the D126 through an increasingly green and rural an hour.
landscape of cows and forests.
TRIP HIGHLIGHT
9 Vannes
with enchanting old des Beaux-Arts de Pont-
stone houses. Aven (%02 98 06 14 43; Street art, sculptures and
NORMANDY & BRITTANY 9 BRETON COAST
Surrounding the town www.museepontaven.fr; place intriguing galleries pop
are numerous attrac- de l’Hôtel de Ville; adult/child up unexpectedly through
tive beaches and coves, €7/free; h10am-7pm Jul & the half-timbered, lively
which are sheltered from Aug, 10am-6pm Tue-Sun Apr- cobbled city of Vannes,
the anger of the Atlantic Jun, Sep & Oct, 2pm-5.30pm which has a quirky,
and are ideal for families. Tue-Sun Mar, Nov & Dec, closed creative bent. Surround-
Jan). The town also has ing the pretty walled old
The Drive » Cross the excellent eateries, so it’s town is a broad moat.
picturesque Moros River on the Along its eastern edge,
D783 and trundle on for 16km perfect for a pit-stop. a flower-filled garden
(30 minutes) through rural The Drive » From Port-Aven
scenery to Pont-Aven. to Carnac it’s a fast but dull gives superb views of
one-hour (81km) drive down the the ramparts. Inside,
explore the web of nar-
N165 dual carriageway past the
7 Pont-Aven large industrial city of Lorient. row alleys ranged around
The tiny village of Pont- the 13th-century Gothic
Cathédrale St-Pierre.
Aven, nestled in the TRIP HIGHLIGHT The nearby Golfe
‘valley of willows’, is a du Morbihan is one of
delightful place to break 8 Carnac France’s most attractive
your journey eastward. With enticing beaches
Long ago discovered by and a pretty town centre, stretches of coastline.
From April to September,
artists like Paul Gauguin Carnac would be a popu- Navix (%08 25 13 21 00;
(1848–1903), it’s brim- lar tourist town even www.navix.fr; hApr-Sep) and
ming with galleries. For without its collection other companies run a
an insight into the town’s of magnificent mega-
place in art history, stop lithic sites (p120), which range of cruises.
by the excellent Musée predate Stonehenge by 4 p123


122

Eating & Sleeping


crab and lobster from the window tank, tuck into
1 St-Malo the classic fish soup or opt for a heaping platter
of fresh shellfish. Plate-glass windows keep
5 Breizh Café Crêperie € things light and bright, and the dining room has
(%02 99 56 96 08; www.breizhcafe.com; 6 a steady chatter.
rue de l’Orme; crêpes €9-13; hnoon-2pm & 4 Hôtel aux Tamaris Hotel €€
7-10pm Wed-Sun) This will be one of your most
memorable meals in Brittany. The creative (%02 98 61 22 99; www.hotel-aux-tamaris.com;
chef combines traditional Breton ingredients 49 rue Édouard Corbière; d €85-120; hmid-
and galette and crêpe styles with Japanese Jan–Dec; W) This smart, family-run place in an
flavours and brilliant textures and presentation. old granite building overlooking the water at the
Seaweed and delightful seasonal pickles meets western end of town is an excellent choice, with
local ham, organic eggs and roast duck. Save well-equipped, light, seabreeze-filled rooms, all
room for dessert, such as the transcendent with a pleasant maritime aura and yacht sails NORMANDY & BRITTANY 9 BRETON COAST
Amuse-Crêpe: a crêpe roll (like a sushi roll) of for ceilings. Rooms with sea views cost more.
melted Valrhona chocolate and ginger-caramel Expect locally sourced goodies at breakfast (€7
made with beurre salé (salted butter). to €11). Bikes for hire.
4 La Maison des Armateurs Hotel €€
(%02 99 40 87 70; www.maisondesarmateurs. Presqu’île de Crozon 4
com; 6 Grand Rue; d €110-210, f/ste from Hotel €
€190/230; hclosed Dec; aW) No language 4 Hôtel de la Baie
barrier here – La Maison des Armateurs is run (%02 98 27 07 51; www.hoteldelabaie-crozon-
by a helpful French-American couple. Despite morgat.com; 46 bd de la Plage, Morgat; d €49-88,
the austere granite-fronted setting, the inside studio €97; W) One of the very few places to
of this sassy four-star hotel is all sexy, modern remain open year-round, this friendly, family-
minimalism: modern furniture throughout, run spot on Morgat’s promenade has renovated
gleaming bathrooms with power showers and rooms, some with views over the ocean, and is
cool chocolate, pale orange and neutral grey one of the best deals around.
tones. Families can plump for the super-sized
suites. Check the website for deals.
Vannes 9

Roscoff 3 4 La Villa Garennes B&B €€
(%06 76 01 80 83; www.hotel-lebretagne-
5 Le Surcouf Brasserie €€ vannes.com; 3 rue Monseigneur Tréhiou; d incl
(%02 98 69 71 89; www.surcoufroscoff.fr; 14 rue breakfast €75-105; W) A stone’s throw from the
Amiral Réveillère; menus lunch €13, dinner €19- ramparts, this very attractive option has five
80; h11.30am-1.30pm & 6.30-9.30pm) Bang charmingly and uniquely decorated rooms in a
in the heart of Roscoff, this brasserie serves handsome stone building. They’re light, airy and
excellent seafood. You can choose your own furnished with great taste, and breakfasts come
in for warm praise.










123

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
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Location Caption details to go here

BRIGITTE MERLE / GETTY IMAGES ©
Tour des

Fromages 10





On this gastronomic drive you’ll devour some of the best cheese in
France and see where the seaside inspired artists, where Joan of
Arc was executed and where Richard the Lionheart prowled.

TRIP HIGHLIGHTS
5 DAYS
70 km 315 km 315KM / 196 MILES
Honfleur Rouen
Savour superfresh seafood Admire the
at the harbourside architecture of GREAT FOR…
restaurants Rouen’s old town Neufchâtel-
en-Bray HB
#
BEST TIME TO GO
m K In May Pont L’Évêque
celebrates all that is
# # #
10
# 7 ## # # cheese during the Fête
du Fromage.
# Pont-l'Évêque
Les
# ESSENTIAL
I PHOTO
Andelys
Snap a shot of the
# # #
# 15 km Seine from the
3
l L # 1 # # # Livarot platform near the
Château Gaillard.
Explore the best
cheese museum
Camembert in France BEST FOR
Learn the secrets of the K HISTORY
world-renowned cheese
at the Président Farm Pay your respects to
0 km the memory of Joan of
Arc in Rouen.
Camember 125
Location Caption details to go heret Signs point to the cheese village and museum

TRIP HIGHLIGHT
Tour des
10 Fromages 1 Camembert
Thanks to a delicious
soft cheese, the name
Camembert is known the
world over. Therefore, it
More cheese, please! It’s said that in France can come as a surprise
there is a different variety of cheese for to learn that Camembert
is merely a small, but
every day of the year. On this driving culinary very picturesque, classic
extravaganza, you’ll taste – and learn about – Norman village of half-
timbered buildings. The
some of the very finest of French cheeses. big attraction here is, of
Cheese cravings sated, explore the backstreets course, the aforemen-
tioned cheese, and you
of Rouen, build castles made of sand on the can learn all about it dur-
seashore and clamber up to castles made of ing a guided tour of the
Président Farm (%02 33 12
stone in the interior. 10 37; www.maisonducamem




40 km
# e 0 0 20 miles Abbeville # \
Le Treport # \
# ] Dieppe # \ Blagny-
English Channel Varengeville- # \ sur-Bresle
(La Manche) sur-Mer
0 ¸ Forêt Neufchâtel-
en-Bray
SEINE- A151
Étretat MARITIME d'Eawy #
# \ #
8
# \
St-Saëns # \ 0 ¸
D1314
/ · # \ Yvetot / · # \ Forges-
A29
A29
Parc Naturel HAUTE- les-Eaux
Le Havre Régional des Boucles de NORMANDIE
Baie de la la Seine Normande m K 0 ¸
Seine # ] D921
# \
Seine Duclair Forêt
#
Forêt de
10
Honfleur# Brotonne # Rouen Lyons
# 7
de
D6014
la-Forêt
Distillerie # \ Pont-Audemer 0 ¸ # \ Lyons-
#
6
Christian Drouin # Seine
# Pont l'Évêque / ·
#
# \
5
A13
/ · 0 ¸
A13
Caen D579 #
#
9
# \
# ^ Les Jardins du # Louviers # ] Les
4
Pays d'Auge # # ] Lisieux Andelys
A28
BASSE- / · # ] Bernay EURE Vernon # ] # £ Forêt
Forêt de
NORMANDIE # # Beaumont Evreux de Moisson La
#
4
#
# \ Livarot
3
Les Arpents # ^ Défense
du Soleil Musée du Charentonne # ] # \
#
2
Falaise # ] # Camembert Mantes-la-Jolie
# \
Camembert# Forêt de
# 1
R l L Breteuil Breteuil-
La Roche / · # \ sur-Iton
A88
d'Oëtre Forêt de St- CENTRE
(120m) Forêt de Evroult
ORNE Gouffern

bert.com; adult/child renovations, the small hours rest of year) offers a free
€3.50/1.50; h10am-noon & Musée du Camembert tour and tasting at the
2-5pm daily May-Sep, Wed-Sun (%02 33 39 30 29; www.musee Graindorge factory. A self-
Apr & Oct, closed Nov–late Mar), ducamembert.fr; 10 Av du guided tour accompanied
an early 19th-century Général de Gaulle; adult/child by multimedia displays
farm restored by Prési- €3/2; h2-6pm Apr-Oct), in leads through a series
dent, one of the region’s the village of Vimoutiers, of whiffy viewing rooms
largest Camembert gives you the lowdown on where you can watch
producers. the history and culture Livarot, Camembert and
of the smelly stuff. It’s a Pont l’Évêque being made.
The Drive » It’s a 5km,
10-minute drive along the privately run affair; you After you’ve expanded
D246 and then the D16 from might have to call for your waistline on the
Camembert village to the Musée them to open up. cheese tour, work it all
du Camembert in Vimoutiers. off again with a walk
The Drive » It’s another
10-minute drive north to stop 3, around the town. Its
2 Musée du Livarot, along the D579. wobbly-wiggly half-
timbered buildings make
Camembert TRIP HIGHLIGHT it a real charmer. NORMANDY & BRITTANY 10 TOuR DES FROMAGES
Recently reopened after The Drive » Head west along
two years of extensive 3 Livarot the D4 from Livarot to the village
Although not as famous of St-Pierre-sur-Dives. The D271
internationally as Cam- leads to Les Arpents du Soleil
embert, Livarot is a big winery a little south of the village
deal in France. The town en route to Grisy. Retrace your
where the cheese of the route to St-Pierre-sur-Dives, then
head north on the D16 all the
SOMME same name originated is way to Crèvecoeur-en-Auge, and
home to probably the best
0 ¸ cheese tour in Normandy. follow the road onto the D101 to
Somme
D929
Amiens F G Le Village Fromager Les Jardins du Pays d’Auge.
4
# \
# \ (L’Atelier Fromager; %02 31
Longueau
48 20 10; www.graindorge. 4 St-Pierre-sur-
/ · NORD - fr; 42 rue du Général Leclerc;
A16
PAS-DE- Dives
CALAIS h9.30am-5pm Mon-Sat & From Livarot, we’re
10.30am-5.30pm Sun Jul & Aug,
9.30am-1pm & 2-5.30pm Mon- detouring a little further
Sat Apr-Jun & Sep-Oct, shorter west. Just outside the
Beauvais LINK
# \
OISE YOUR
TRIP
Forêt Bray 4 In Flanders Fields 5 Champagne Taster
#
\
/ · d'Halatte The war memorials From Rouen it’s
A16
Forêt
d'Ermenonville of northern France are 284km to Reims and the
a powerful symbol of start of another culinary
Forêt
de Chantilly the wastefulness of war. adventure – this one fuelled
Amiens, the start of our by the bubbly stuff.
# \ Flanders Fields drive, is
110km to 120km from Rouen.
PARIS F G
5
ÎLE #
_
DE FRANCE ‚
# \ 127
Versailles

village of Saint-Pierre-
sur-Dives is something of
a surprise for Normandy
– not a cider farm, but a
renowned vineyard, Les ATLANTIDE PHOTOTRAVEL / GETTY IMAGES ©
Arpents du Soleil (%02 31
40 71 82; www.arpents-du-
soleil.com; Chemin des Vignes,
Grisy; guided tour adult €6.70;
hshop 2-6.30pm Mon-Fri,
10am-5pm Sat), a wine-
maker since medieval
times. The current crop
includes three dry whites
and a fruity, oaky pinot
noir. The shop is open
year-round, and offers
the chance to try the
estate’s wines, but guided
tours only run on certain
days, so phone ahead.
A bit further north
towards Cambremer
are Les Jardins du Pays
d’Auge (%06 84 43 59 29;
www.lesjardinsdupaysdauge.
NORMANDY & BRITTANY 10 TOuR DES FROMAGES
com; Rte des 3 Rois, Cam-
bremer; adult/child €7.90/5;
h10am-6.30pm May-Sep), a
bucolic 4-hectare garden
surrounded by typical
Norman half-timbered
buildings, as well as a
museum of old tools.
There’s also a sweet
country cafe where you
can try no fewer than 80
crêpes and galettes. centre has been known There is no shortage of
for its eponymous cheese. cheese shops in town.
The Drive » A gentle Although two-thirds of If you’re passing
countryside cruise of just over the town was destroyed through over the second
half an hour (22km) up the D101
will see you easing into Pont in WWII, careful recon- weekend in May, don’t
l’Évêque. struction has brought miss the Fête du Fromage,
much of it back to life. when the townsfolk throw
Half-timbered buildings a little party for cheese –
5 Pont l’Evêque line the main street, only in France!
Since the 13th cen- and 1960s stained glass The Drive » To get to the
tury this unpretentious bathes the 15th-century Distillerie Christian Drouin,
little town with rivers Église St-Michel in your next stop, head out of
meandering through its colour ed light. Pont l’Évêque in a northeasterly
direction on the D675. At the

128

CaptionCaptionCaptionCaption








Honfleur Boats on the Old Harbour
roundabout on the edge of Drouin (%02 31 64 30 05;
the town, take the third exit www.calvados-drouin.com; rte TRIP HIGHLIGHT
(rue Saint-Mélaine/D677) and de Trouville, Coudray-Rabut;
continue for about 2.5km until h9am-noon & 2-6pm Mon- 7 Honfleur
you see the farm on your left. Long a favourite with
Sat), which will let you in painters, Honfleur is ar-
on the delights of Norman guably Normandy’s most
6 Distillerie cider and calvados (that charming seaside town.
Christian Drouin other classic Norman tip- On the west side of
ple). Entrance is free.
In case you were starting the Vieux Bassin (Old
to wonder if Normandy The Drive » It’s a simple Harbour), with its many
was merely a one-cheese enough 17km drive along the pleasure boats, quai Ste-
D579 to Honfleur and your first
pony, pay a visit to the sea views (yes, the sun will be Catherine is lined with
Distillerie Christian out by the time you get there…). tall, taper-thin houses –

129

many protected from the culture. Check out the can be enjoyed from the
elements by slate tiles – Musée Mathon-Durand platform a few hundred
dating from the 16th (%02 35 93 06 55; Grande Rue metres up the one-lane
to the 18th centuries. Saint-Pierre; adult/child €2.35/ road from the castle.
The Lieutenance, at the free; h3-6pm Tue-Sun),
mouth of the old harbour, inside a gorgeous medi- 4 p131
was once the residence of eval building that once The Drive » It’s a 45km,
the town’s royal governor. belonged to a knight. 50-minute scamper (well, as
Initially intended as He’s long since gone off long as you don’t hit rush-hour
a temporary structure, to fight dragons in the traffic) down the D6014 to your
the Église Ste-Catherine sky, and today the house final stop, Rouen.
(place Ste-Catherine; contains a small museum
h9am-5.15pm or later) has of local culture. TRIP HIGHLIGHT
been standing in the The Drive » The most obvious a Rouen
square for more than route between Neufchâtel-en-
500 years. The church is Bray and stop 9, Les Andelys, is With its elegant spires,
particularly notable for along the A28, but that means beautifully restored
its double-vaulted roof skirting around Rouen – time medieval quarter and
and twin naves, which it badly and you’ll be sitting soaring Gothic cathedral,
from the inside resemble in traffic breathing in carbon the ancient city of Rouen
a couple of overturned monoxide. Instead, take the more is one of Normandy’s
ships’ hulls. serene D921 back road. Going highlights. It was here
this way should take you about that the young French
54 p105, p131 80 minutes to cover the 75km. heroine Joan of Arc
(Jeanne d’Arc) was tried
The Drive » You’ve had
nice, mellow country lanes so 9 Les Andelys for heresy.
NORMANDY & BRITTANY 10 TOuR DES FROMAGES
far. Time to speed things up Rouen’s stunning
for the 111km race (not too On a hairpin curve in the Cathédrale Notre Dame
fast, please!) down the A29 to Seine lies Les Andelys (www.cathedrale-rouen.net;
Neufchâtel-en-Bray. (the ‘s’ is silent), the old place de la Cathédrale; h2-
part of which is crowned 7pm Mon, 9am-7pm Tue-Sat,
by the ruins of Château 8am-6pm Sun Apr-Oct, shorter
8 Neufchâtel-en- Gaillard, the 12th-century hrs Nov-Mar) is the famous
Bray hilltop fastness of Rich- subject of a series of
The small market town ard the Lionheart. paintings by Monet.
of Neufchâtel-en-Bray is Built from 1196 to Rue du Gros Horloge
renowned for its heart- 1197, Château Gaillard runs from the cathedral
shaped cheese called, (%02 32 54 41 93; adult/child west to place du Vieux
imaginatively, Neufchâ- €3.20/2.70; h10am-1pm & Marché, where you’ll find
tel. To buy it in the most 2-6pm Mon & Wed-Sun, 2-6pm the thrillingly bizarre
authentic way, try to time Tue late Mar-Oct) secured Église Jeanne d’Arc, with
your arrival to coincide the western border of its fish-scale exterior. It
with the Saturday- English territory along sits on the spot where
morning market. the Seine until Henry IV the 19-year-old Joan was
Appetite satisfied, ordered its destruction burned at the stake.
it’s now time for some in 1603. Fantastic views 54 p105, p131
of the Seine’s white cliffs






130

Eating & Sleeping


twee. The 12 rooms are spacious, tasteful and
Honfleur 7 romantic, with antique wood furnishings and
plush rugs; some are so close to the Seine you
5 La Fleur de Sel Gastronomy €€€ could almost fish out the window.
(%02 31 89 01 92; www.lafleurdesel-honfleur.
com; 17 rue Haute; menus €32-62; hnoon-
1.30pm & 7.15-9pm & Wed-Sun) Honfleur-raised Rouen a
Vincent Guyon cooked in some of Paris’ top
kitchens before returning to his hometown to 5 La Rose des Vents Modern French €
make good and open his own (now celebrated) (%02 35 70 29 78; 37 rue St-Nicolas; mains €16;
restaurant. Guyon uses the highest quality hnoon-3pm Tue-Sat) Tucked away inside a
locally sourced ingredients and plenty of secondhand shop, this stylish establishment
invention (with roast meats and wild-caught is hugely popular with foodies and hipsters.
seafood featuring ginger and kaffir-lime Patrons rave about the two lunch mains, which
vinaigrettes, Camembert foams and hazelnut change weekly according to what’s available in
tempura) in his beautifully crafted dishes. the market. They can usually whip up something NORMANDY & BRITTANY 10 TOuR DES FROMAGES
Reserve ahead. for vegetarians as well. Reservations are
recommended.
4 La Petite Folie B&B €€
(%06 74 39 46 46; www.lapetitefolie-honfleur. 4 La Boulangerie B&B €
com; 44 rue Haute; d incl breakfast €145-195, (%06 12 94 53 15; www.laboulangerie.fr; 59
apt €195-275; W) Penny Vincent, an American rue St-Nicaise; s from €67, d €77-92, q €154 incl
who moved to France from San Francisco, and breakfast; pW) Tucked into a quiet side street
her French husband Thierry are the gracious 1.2km northeast of the cathedral, this adorable
hosts at this elegant home, built in 1830 and B&B, above an historic bakery, has three bright,
still adorned by the original stained glass and pleasingly decorated rooms, adorned with
tile floors. Each room has a different design, artwork and attractive details (such as exposed
with original artwork, and the best are filled beam ceilings). Your charming host Aminata is a
with vintage furnishings and overlook the pretty gold mine of local information. Parking available
garden. The lovely common areas make a fine for €5.
spot for an evening glass of wine. La Petite Folie 4 Hôtel de
also rents nicely designed apartments on the Luxury Hotel €€€
same street. Bourgtheroulde
(%02 35 14 50 50; www.hotelsparouen.com;
15 place de la Pucelle; r €195-254; paWs)
Les Andelys 9 Rouen’s finest hostelry (now owned by the
Marriott) serves up a sumptuous mix of early
4 Hôtel de la 16th-century architecture – Flamboyant Gothic,
Chaîne d’Or Hotel €€ to be precise – and sleek, modern luxury. The 78
(%02 32 54 00 31; www.hotel-lachainedor.com; rooms are spacious and gorgeously appointed.
27 rue Grande, Petit Andely; s €79, d €95-150, f Amenities include a pool (19m), sauna and spa
€160; pW) Packed with character, this little in the basement, and a lobby bar with live piano
hideaway is rustically stylish without being music on Saturday evening.









131

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Château de Caen
Caen’s mighty castle (http://musee-de-nor
mandie.caen.fr; h8am-10pm; p) looms above
the centre; its massive battlements must
STRETCH have inspired fear in William the Con-
queror’s enemies when he established the
YOUR LEGS fortress in 1060. Inside the castle walls,
tiny 12th-century Église St- Georges
has fine stained-glass windows, and
CAEN the Échiquier is the oldest building in
Normandy and the site of William’s first
Ducal palace. Don’t miss the views from
the ramparts behind the building.
The Walk » Exiting the castle grounds, turn
right on rue de Geôle and then left onto rue
Calibourg. Follow this as it turns into rue Croisiers
Start/Finish Château de Caen and rue St-Sauveur. You’ll pass Église St-Sauveur
(on your right) just before reaching the plaza.
Distance 4.5km Place St-Sauveur
This lovely plaza is the oldest in the
Duration 3 hours historic centre, and survived the devas-
tating bombing raids of WWII relatively
unscathed. Lined with some of elegant
18th-century mansions, the plaza was
once home to a medieval market (come
Soaring Romanesque churches, on a Friday to browse today’s market
picturesque medieval plazas and vendors), and served as a site of public
a mighty castle are all features of execution for a time. Cafes with outdoor
tables facing the plaza make fine vantage
this stroll around Caen’s historic points for contemplating the past.
centre. Although much of Caen was The Walk » Continue southwest along rue St-
Sauveur. Turn left at the roundabout. After 50m
destroyed during WWII, there are you’ll see Hôtel de Ville (City Hall) on your right,
still some extraordinary remnants and the church towers of the abbey on the far right.
from the past – along with vibrant Abbaye-aux-Hommes
streets sprinkled with outdoor cafes, Known as the ‘men’s abbey’, this former
Benedictine monastery (Abbaye-St-Étienne;
colourful shops and new-wave %02 31 30 42 81; rue Guillaume le Conquérant;
Norman eateries. church free, cloisters €2; hchurch 9.30am-
1pm & 2-7pm Mon-Sat, 2-6.30pm Sun, cloisters
8.30am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am-1pm & 2pm-
5.30pm Sat & Sun) is the most impressive
Romanesque building in Normandy.
Soaring spires seem to pierce the sky.
Approaching the building, head right
to visit the imposing church, where you
Take this walk on Trip can see William the Conqueror’s tomb
(rebuilt, as it was destroyed and rebuilt
8 several times over the centuries). To
view the medieval cloister head straight

132

Av Georges
Clemenceau
R des Cordes Pl Reine
Pl Maurice
R
Av de laLibération R du Vaugueux Mathilde # Abbaye-
Fouque
R des Chanoines
aux-
de Geôle
000
Château 000 Dames
000
000
de Caen & K R Haute R Basse
#
Fossés St-Julien R Gémare Quatrans # & L # Le Bouchon R Richard Lenoir
R des
Cordeliers
¤
du Vaugueux
Pl St- R des Croisiers Pl St- Pl Courtonne
R Pasteur R Froide # St-Pierre Londe
¤
Martin Pierre #
Q de la
R de l'Académie
Pl St-Sauveur . R St-Saveur R St-Pierre R St-Jean # Q Vendeuvre Bassin
#
¤
# R Bellivat R de la Miséricorde St-Pierre
R Guillaume R Demolombe Bernières
0000000
le Conquérant 0000000 R de Bernières
0000000
# R Écuyère 0000000
0000000
00
0000000
Abbaye- R de Bras R Jean Eudes Église Résistance
00
00
0000000
0000000 0000
Pl de la
aux- 00 0000000 0000 R de I'Oratoire St-Jean # Pl de la
0000000 0000
¤
00
R de Strasbourg
Bd Maréchal Leclerc
00
République
Hommes R Arcisse de Caumont R St-Laurent 0000000 0000 R des Martyrs Résistance
0000000 0000
00
00
.
#
0000
R du Havre
0000
0000
Pl Gambetta
Av Albert Sorel 00000 # e 0 0 0.2 miles Av du 6 Juin #
00000
00000
Bd Bertrand
00000
00000
400 m
00000
00000
00000
00000
Quai de
¤
Juillet
into Hôtel de Ville, which occupies complex (Abbaye-de-la-Trinité; %02 31 06 98
much of the former monastery. 98; place Reine Mathilde), which has a mag-
nificent interior. Don’t miss the columns
The Walk » Leaving the Abbaye-aux-Hommes,
walk back to the roundabout, and take the first topped with 900-year-old carvings near
right along rue Écuyère, which turns into rue St- the choir.
Pierre after a few blocks
The Walk » It’s an easy downhill walk along rue
Rue St-Pierre des Chanoines heading west. After taking a very
slight left onto rue Montoir Poissonnerie, look for
One of Caen’s most elegant streets, this the restaurant on your left.
narrow, cobblestone lane is lined with
boutiques and cafes. Medieval Église Le Bouchon du Vaugueux
St-Pierre (place St-Pierre; h8.30am-6pm Mon- End the day’s wanders with a meal of
Sat, from 9.30am Sun) anchors its eastern creative Norman cooking. The giant
end, and at the other end rue St-Pierre wine cork marks the spot at this tiny
intersects rue Écuyère, a bar-lined street bistrot gourmand (%02 31 44 26 26; www.
that a draws festive crowd by night. bouchonduvaugueux.com; 12 rue Graindorge;
lunch menu €16-24, dinner menu €22-34; hnoon-
The Walk » Take a right on busy av de la
Libération and follow this past the pleasure boats 2pm & 7-10pm Tue-Sat), which matches
docked on Bassin St-Pierre. Turn left on rue imaginative contemporary cuisine with
Michel Cabieu, left again on rue Richard Lenoir a first-rate wine selection, sourced from
and right on rue Manissier. small producers all over France. Staff
are happy to translate the chalk-board
Abbaye-aux-Dames menu. Reservations recommended.
The ‘women’s abbey’ is another 11th-
century stunner once used as a Benedic- The Walk » From the restaurant it’s a two-
tine nunnery. William the Conqueror and minute saunter back to the castle, completing the
day’s loop.
his wife Matilda founded this church
133

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Loire Valley


& Central



France











WORLD-RENOWNED CHÂTEAUX AND
FINE WINES may be the two most obvious
reasons to visit central France, but they’re
only the tip of the iceberg. This region was also
once the site of Europe’s grandest volcanoes,
its largest concentration of cave dwellings and
some of its finest medieval architecture. When
you’ve had your fill of château gawking and
vineyard hopping, make some time for roads
less travelled: wind through the Auvergne’s
magnificent landscape of green pastures
and vestigial cinder cones; go underground
to discover the Loire’s ancient troglodyte
culture; or spend a week exploring Burgundy’s
medieval churches, abbeys and walled towns.
Central France is also prime walking and cycling
country; look for paths wherever you go.

Loire Valley Village and vineyards 135
JULIAN ELLIOTT PHOTOGRAPHY / GETTY IMAGES ©

# \ #\ #\
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Loire Valley Laval Le Mans Forêt
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# ] # ] d'Orléans
& Central / · Loir Vendôme Orléans
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France # \ Baugé Blois # \ Chambord
Angers # \ Nazelles- # ]
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Parc Naturel
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Doué-la-FG Anjou Touraine # ] / ·
12
A85
Fontaine # \ Saumur / · # \ # \ Bléré
D7
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Vihiers # \ # \ # \ Chinon
: Montreuil- Vatan # \
: # \ Bellay Descartes
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: Montaigu # \ Châtillon- Indre # \ Levroux Cher
sur-Indre
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Châteauroux
# \ Poitiers La Châtre # \
/ ·
A10
/ ·
A20
# \Niort
# \
La Rochelle Guéret # \
Aubusson # \
Limoges
Saintes # \ Parc Naturel
# \ Cognac Régional de
Bay of Biscay Royan # \ # \ Parc Naturel Millevaches en
Angoulême Régional Périgord- Limousin
Limousin
Égletons
# \
/ · Tulle
A10
A89
# \ Blaye / · # \ Brive-la-
Mussidan Gaillarde
# \ Vézère
Sarlat-
Bordeaux # \ la-Canéda
# ^
Châteaux of the Loire 5 Days Medieval Burgundy 6 Days
b Tour France’s greatest châteaux, e Search for medieval treasures in
from austere medieval towers to Burgundy’s churches, monasteries
exuberant royal palaces. (p139) and fortified villages. (p167)
Caves & Cellars of the Loire 3 Days Route des Grands Crus 2 Days
c Discover the Loire’s subterranean f Sample France’s most venerable
world: wine cellars, cave dwellings vintages on this wine-lover’s tour of
and mushroom farms. (p149) Burgundy. (p175)
Volcanoes of the Auvergne 4 Days
d Green pastures, volcanic scenery,
fabulous hiking and some of
France’s finest cheeses. (p159)
136

# \
# e 0 0 50 miles 100 km DON'T
MISS
Auxerre
Forêt de
# ] Châtillon
A31
14
Briare # \ F G # \ / · Château de
Montbard Chambord
/ · Vézelay # \ Dijon # \ Gray The Loire’s star expres­
A77
# ] sion of Renaissance
Parc Naturel
Régional # \ Saulieu F G architecture, capped
du Morvan 0 ¸ 15
A31
# \ Bourges D980 Beaune /· by its world­famous
Loire
# \ double­helix staircase.
# \ Nevers # \ Discover it on Trip b
Autun Chalon-
Cher
# \sur-Saône
Sanvignes- / ·
A6
les-Mines # \ Sei lle Ancient Green
Allier
Moulins # \ F G # \ Tournus
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Digoin # \ Volcanoes,
Cluny # \ Auvergne
# \ Montluçon # \ Mâcon The Auvergne’s three
/ · dormant volcanoes are
A71
Ambérieu- a hiker’s paradise. Climb
en-Bugey
# \
# \ them on Trip d
# \ # \ Tarare
Puy de Clermont-
Dôme Ferrand
(1465m) R #] # ^ Lyon
La Le Mont- / · Temptation of Eve,
A72
Bourboule Dore Parc Naturel # ]
# \ #\ # \ Régional du Bourgoin-Jallieu Musée Rolin, Autun
Puy deR Livradois-Forez St-Étienne
Sancy # \ # \ This startlingly sensual
(1885m) Parc Naturel
F G Régional des Rhône image is the work of
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13
d'Auvergne Yssingeaux / · Grenoble # ] 12th­century stone
A7
# \ R Puy Mary # \ # \ Parc Naturel carver Gislebertus. See
Salers (1787m) Régional du it on Trip e
Vercors
/ · Valence # ] # \ Chabeuil
A75
# \
Caveau de Puligny-
# \
Montrachet
Sample some of
Burgundy’s extraordinary
white wines without
breaking the bank. Enjoy
them on Trip f
Château de La
Rochepot
CORMON FRANCIS / HEMIS.FR / GETTY IMAGES ©
Enjoy superb views of
France’s countryside
from this medieval
castle. Visit it on
Trip f
Puy de Dôme Volcanic cone among verdant pastures
137

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Location Caption details to go here

Châteaux of the
Loire 11

JULIAN ELLIOTT / ROBERTHARDING / GETTY IMAGES ©





For centuries, France’s longest river has been a backdrop for royal
intrigue and extravagant castles. This trip weaves nine of the
Loire Valley’s most spectacular and sublimely beautiful châteaux.

TRIP HIGHLIGHTS
5 DAYS
189KM / 118 MILES
189 km
Chambord GREAT FOR…
France's château
superstar, a royal hunting
lodge on steroids GB
120 km
Amboise BEST TIME TO GO
Charles VIII's Loire-side May and June for
birthplace and Da m K good cycling weather;
Vinci's last home Blois #
# # #
9
# July for gardens and
special events.
# # #
# ESSENTIAL
6
# Villandry I PHOTO
#
# # #
5
# Château de Chenon­
4
# # #
ceau’s graceful arches
l L River.
reflected in the Cher
#
Chinon
Chenonceaux BEST TWO
Azay-le-Rideau Wander a fairy-tale K DAYS
A Renaissance landscape of reflected
jewel on a lovely arches and riverside The stretch between
island gardens Chenonceau and
52 km 107 km Chambord takes in the
true classics.
Chenonceaux Château de Chenonceau
Location Caption details to go here 139

Châteaux of the
11 Loire



From warring medieval warlords to the kings and queens of Renaissance
France, a parade of powerful men and women have left their mark on the
Loire Valley. The result is France’s most magnificent collection of castles.
This itinerary visits nine of the Loire’s most iconic châteaux, ranging from
austere medieval fortresses to ostentatious royal pleasure palaces. Midway
through, a side trip leads off the beaten track to four lesser-known châteaux.





Le Lude # \
TOURAINE
/ · # \
A28
# \ Château-
# \ Beaumont- Renault
# \
Châteaux- # \ la-Ronce
Noyant la-Vallière Neuillé-
# \ Pont-Pierre / ·
A10
0 ¸
D959
PAYS DE Reugny # \
LA LOIRE Poce-sur-
Cisse
Nazelles- # \
Vernantes Rochecorbon Vouvray Négron # \
# \ #
6
# \ # \ # \ Amboise #
# \ Gizeux
# \ Tours # ]
# \ CENTRE / ·
D81
Villandry Montlouis-
sur-Loire
# \ #
Langeais # # \ Savonnières
3
# \ # / ·
# D7 Montbazon Truyes Bleré # \
2
# \
#
Bourgueil # \ Vallères H / ·
A85
# \ Rigny- / · / · Esvres
D39
/ · # \ Île St- Ussé # \ Azay-le- D16 p143 Monts # \ # \ #\ # \ / ·
A85
D45
Martin
# \ / · # V Rideau# / · Artannes / · Veigne # \ # \
# \
#
4
D17
# \
D7
# \
# \ D84
Château d'Ussé
# \
Montsoreau Indre # \ Huismes 0 ¸ Perre Saché Sablonnière Cormery # \ Courçay # \
# \ D751
# \Candes-St-Martin / · Parc Naturel Régional INDRE- # \ Reignac- # \
D16
sur-Indre
F G Loire Anjou / · ET-LOIRE 0 ¸
12
Touraine
Lerne l L A10 D943 # \ Auger
#
# 1
# \ Chinon
Isle
# \ # \
Seuilly Loches
Forêt de Sainte- # \
Chinon
POITOU- # \ Maure-de- I ndre
CHARENTES Vienne Touraine

down in the medieval 47 96 72 60; www.chateau-de-
1 Chinon part of town (along rue langeais.com; adult/child €9/5;
Tucked between the Voltaire), several fine h9.30am-6.30pm Apr–mid-
medieval Forteresse Roy- buildings dating from the Nov, 10am-5pm mid-Nov–Mar)
15th to 17th centuries.
– built in the 1460s – is
ale de Chinon (%02 47 93 superbly preserved inside
13 45; www.forteressechinon. 54 p147, p157
fr; adult/child €8.50/6.50; and out, looking much
as it did at the tail end
h9.30am-7pm May-Aug, to The Drive » Follow the D16
5pm or 6pm Sep-Apr) – a north of Chinon for 10km, then of the Middle Ages, with
head 15km east on the D7 past
magnificent hilltop castle the fairy-tale Château d’Ussé crenellated ramparts and
massive towers domi-
– and the Vienne River, (the inspiration for the fairy tale
Chinon is forever etched Sleeping Beauty) to Lignières, nating the surrounding
village. Original 15th-
in France’s collective where you catch the D57 3km
memory as the venue of north into Langeais. century furniture and
Joan of Arc’s first meet- Flemish tapestries fill its
flagstoned chambers. In
ing with Charles VII,
future king of France, in 2 Langeais one room, a life-size wax-
figure tableau portrays
1429. Highlights include The most medieval of the
superb panoramas from Loire châteaux, the Châ- the marriage of Charles
VIII and Anne of Brittany,
the castle’s ramparts and, teau de Langeais (%02
held here on 6 December LOIRE VALLEY & CENTRAL FRANCE 11 CHâTEAux OF THE LOIRE
1491, which brought about
the historic union of
France and Brittany.
Langeais presents two
# e 0 0 # \ m K 10 miles 20 km faces to the world. From
/ · Loire # the town you see a forti-
fied castle, nearly window-
A10
9
# \ Chambord
#
Blois # \ 0¸ less, with machicolated
Domaine
# ] #
Forêt # 7 D112 National de walls rising forbiddingly
de Blois Huisseau- Chambord
sur-Cosson from the drawbridge.
Russy 0¸
# \ Bracieux
0 ¸ Forêt de D765 0 ¸ # \ Tour-en- But the sections facing
D102
Onzain D952 # Sologne
# \ #\ #
8
# \ # \ Cande-sur-
0 ¸ # \ Beuvron Cheverny
D952
0 ¸ Chaumont- LOIR- LINK
D952
sur-Loire
ET-CHER YOUR
# \ Contres TRIP
Pontlevoy 184km to
# \ Caves & Cellars of
F G c the Loire
14
Montrichard
0 ¸ # \ Tour wineries and centuries­
# \
# D176 # \ Monthou- ‚
# \ #
5
Chenonceaux sur-Cher / · old cave dwellings between
A85
Sauldre Chinon and Saumur.
Luzille C her # \ St-Aignan
# \ e Medieval Burgundy
# \
Montpoupon Three hours east
H
# \ # 0 ¸ of Blois, steep yourself in
D675
p143 the world of Burgundy’s
medieval churches and
abbeys.
# \ Montrésor # \ Valençay
# \ # \
Nouans-les-
Fontaines
141
I ndre

classical Jardin d’Eau salamanders and ermines
(Water Garden), the of François I and Queen
Labyrinthe (Maze) and Claude. The interior decor
the Jardin d’Ornement is mostly 19th century;
(Ornamental Garden), the Salon de Biencourt
which depicts various was given historically
the courtyard have large kinds of love (fickle, coherent furnishings and
windows, ornate dormers passionate, tender and comprehensively restored
and decorative stonework tragic). But the highlight in 2016. The lovely
designed for more refined is the 16th-century-style English-style gardens
living. Jardin des Simples were restored and partly
Behind the château is (Kitchen Garden), where replanted in 2015.
a ruined stone keep con- cabbages, leeks and car-
structed in 994 by warlord rots are laid out to create The Drive » Follow the D84
Foulques Nerra, France’s nine geometrical, colour- east 6km through the tranquil
Indre valley, then cross the
first great château builder. coordinated squares. river south into Saché, home
It is the oldest such struc- For bird’s-eye views to an attractive château and
ture in France. across the gardens and Balzac museum. From Saché
the nearby Loire and continue 26km east on the D17,
5 p147 11km northeast on the D45 and
Cher Rivers, climb to
The Drive » Backtrack south the top of the donjon 9km east on the D976. Cross
across the Loire River on the D57, (keep), the only medieval north over the Cher River and
then follow the riverbank east remnant in this other- follow the D40 east 1.5km to
10km on the D16 to Villandry. Chenonceaux village and the
wise Renaissance-style Château de Chenonceau.
château.
3 Villandry The Drive » Go southwest 4km TRIP HIGHLIGHT
The six glorious land- on the D7, then turn south 7km on 5 Chenonceaux
scaped gardens at the the D39 into Azay-le-Rideau. Spanning the languid
Château de Villandry Cher River atop a su-
(%02 47 50 02 09; www. TRIP HIGHLIGHT premely graceful arched
LOIRE VALLEY & CENTRAL FRANCE 11 CHâTEAux OF THE LOIRE
chateauvillandry.com; 3 rue 4 Azay-le-Rideau bridge, the Château de
Principale; chateau & gardens Romantic, moat-ringed Chenonceau (%02 47 23
adult/child €10.50/6.50, 90 07; www.chenonceau.com;
gardens only €6.50/4.50, audio- Azay-le-Rideau (%02 47 adult/child €13/10, with audio-
guides €4; h9am-btwn 5pm & 45 42 04; www.azay-le-rideau. guide €17.50/14; h9am-7pm
fr; adult/child €8.50/free,
7pm year-round, château interior or later Apr-Sep, to 5pm or 6pm
closed mid-Nov–mid-Dec & early audioguide €4.50; h9.30am- Oct-Mar) is one of France’s
Jan-early Feb) are among 6pm Apr-Sep, to 7pm Jul & Aug, most elegant châteaux.
10am-5.15pm Oct-Mar) is one
the finest in France, with of France’s absolute gems, It’s hard not to be moved
over 6 hectares of cascad- wonderfully adorned with and exhilarated by the
ing flowers, ornamental glorious setting, the for-
vines, manicured lime elegant turrets, delicate mal gardens, the magic
trees, razor-sharp box stonework and steep slate of the architecture and
roofs, and surrounded by
hedges and tinkling foun- the château’s fascinating
tains. Try to visit when a shady, landscaped park. history. The interior is
the gardens are blooming, Built in the 1500s, the decorated with rare fur-
between April and Octo- château’s most famous nishings and a fabulous
ber; midsummer is most feature is its Italian-style art collection.
loggia staircase overlook-
spectacular. This extraordinary
Wandering the pebbled ing the central courtyard, complex is largely the
walkways, you’ll see the decorated with the royal work of several remark-
142

able women (hence its Chaumont. Catherine chequerboard-floored
nickname, Le Château des completed the château’s Grande Gallerie over the
Dames). The distinctive construction and added Cher. From 1940 to 1942 it
arches and the eastern the yew-tree maze and served as an escape route
formal garden were added the western rose garden. for refugees fleeing from
by Diane de Poitiers, Chenonceau had an 18th- German-occupied France
mistress of King Henri II. century heyday under (north of the Cher) to the
Following Henri’s death, the aristocratic Madame Vichy-controlled south.
Catherine de Médicis, the Dupin, who made it a cen-
king’s scheming widow, tre of fashionable society; The Drive » Follow the D81
north 13km into Amboise; 2km
forced Diane (her second guests included Voltaire south of town, you’ll pass the
cousin) to exchange and Rousseau. Mini-Châteaux theme park,
Chenonceau for the rather The château’s pièce de whose intricate scale models
less grand Château de résistance is the 60m-long, of 44 Loire Valley châteaux are
great fun for kids!


DETOUR:
SOUTH OF THE LOIRE RIVER LOIRE VALLEY & CENTRAL FRANCE 11 CHâTEAux OF THE LOIRE
Start: 4 Azay-le-Rideau
Escape the crowds by detouring to four less­visited châteaux between Azay­le­
Rideau and Chenonceaux.
First stop: Loches, where Joan of Arc, fresh from her victory at Orléans in 1429,
famously persuaded Charles VII to march to Reims and claim the French crown. The
undisputed highlight here is the Cité Royale (%02 47 59 01 32; www.chateau-loches.
fr; h24hr), a vast citadel that spans 500 years of French château architecture in a
single site, from Foulques Nerra’s austere 10th­century keep to the Flamboyant
Gothic and Renaissance styles of the Logis Royal. To get here from Azay­le­Rideau,
head 55km east and then southeast along the D751, A85 and D943.
Next comes the quirky Château de Montrésor (%02 47 92 60 04; www.
chateaudemontresor.fr; Montrésor; adult/child €8/4; h10am-7pm Apr–mid-Nov, 10am-6pm Sat
& Sun mid-Nov–Mar), 19km east of Loches on the D760, still furnished much as it was
over a century ago, when it belonged to Polish-born count, financier and railroad
magnate Xavier Branicki. The eclectic decor includes a Cuban mahogany spiral
staircase, a piano once played by Chopin and a treasury room filled with Turkish
hookahs, plus other spoils from the 17th­century Battle of Vienna.
Next, head 20km north on the D10 and D764 to the Château de Montpoupon
(%02 47 94 21 15; www.chateau-loire-montpoupon.com; adult/child €9/5; h10am-7pm Apr-Sep,
shorter hours winter), idyllically situated in rolling countryside. Opposite the castle, grab
lunch at the wonderful Auberge de Montpoupon (%02 47 59 01 18; www.chateau-loire-
montpoupon.com; Céré-la-Ronde; mains €11.50-18.50; hlunch Tue-Sun, dinner Tue-Sat Apr-Oct).
Continue 12km north on the D764 to Château de Montrichard, another
ruined 11th­century fortress constructed by Foulques Nerra. After visiting the
château, picnic in the park by the Cher River or taste sparkling wines at Caves
Monmousseau (%02 54 32 35 15; www.monmousseau.com; 71 route de Vierzon, Montrichard;
h10am-12.30pm & 1.30-6pm Apr-Oct, 10am-noon & 2-5pm Mon-Sat Nov-Mar).
From Montrichard, head 10km west on the D176 and D40 to rejoin the main route
at Chenonceaux.



143

WHY THIS IS A IBREAKSTOCK / SHUTTERSTOCK ©
CLASSIC TRIP
DANIEL ROBINSON,
WRITER
Travel doesn’t get more
quintessentially French – or
VALERY ROKHIN / SHUTTERSTOCK ©
splendidly pampering – than this
tour of the most famous Loire Valley
châteaux, which brings together
so many of the things I love most
about France: supremely refined
architecture, richly dramatic history,
superb cuisine and delectable wines.
My family especially enjoys the
forbidding medieval fortresses of
Langeais and Loches, which conjure
up a long-lost world of knights,
counts and court intrigue.
Top: Le Close Lucé
Left: Chapelle St-Hubert
Right: Château Royal d’Amboise

TRIP HIGHLIGHT
6 Amboise
Perched on a rocky es-
carpment above town, the
Château Royal d’Amboise
(%02 47 57 00 98; www.cha
DANITA DELIMONT / GETTY IMAGES ©
teau-amboise.com; place Michel
Debré; adult/child €11.20/7.50,
incl audioguide €15.20/10.50;
h9am-6pm or 7.30pm
Mar–mid-Nov, 9am-12.30pm &
2-5.15pm mid-Nov–Feb) was a
favoured retreat for all of
France’s Valois and Bour-
bon kings. The ramparts
afford thrilling views of
the town and river, and
you can visit the fur-
nished Logis (Lodge) and LOIRE VALLEY & CENTRAL FRANCE 11 CHâTEAux OF THE LOIRE
the Flamboyant Gothic
Chapelle St-Hubert
(1493), where Leonardo
da Vinci’s presumed re-
mains have been buried
since 1863.
Amboise’s other main
sight is Le Clos Lucé (%02
47 57 00 73; www.vinci-closluce.
com; 2 rue du Clos Lucé; adult/
child €15/10.50; h9am-7pm
or 8pm Feb-Oct, 9am or 10am-
5pm or 6pm Nov-Jan; c),
the grand manor house
where Leonardo da Vinci
(1452–1519) took up resi-
dence in 1516 and spent
the final years of his life at
the invitation of François
I. Already 64 by the time
he arrived, Da Vinci
spent his time sketching,
tinkering and dreaming
up ingenious contraptions.
Fascinating models of his
many inventions are on
display inside the home
and around its lovely
7-hectare gardens.
54 p147


145

hind a tapestry while the Tintin fans may recog-
deed was done). Dramatic nise the château’s façade
and graphic oil paintings as the model for Captain
illustrate these events next Haddock’s ancestral
door in the Council Room. home, Marlinspike Hall.
The Drive » Follow D952 5 p147 4 p147
northeast along the Loire’s The Drive » Cross the Loire The Drive » Take the D102
northern bank, enjoying 35km of and head 16km southeast into 10km northeast into Bracieux,
beautiful river views en route to Cheverny via the D765 and D102. then turn north on the D112
Blois. The town of Chaumont-sur- for the final 8km run through
Loire makes a pleasant stop for its forested Domaine National de
imposing château and gardens. Chambord, the largest walled
8 Cheverny
Perhaps the Loire’s most park in Europe. Catch your first
dramatic glimpse of France’s
7 Blois elegantly proportioned most famous château on the
Seven French kings lived château, Cheverny (www. right as you arrive in Chambord.
in Château Royal de Blois chateau-cheverny.fr; av du Châ-
(www.chateaudeblois.fr; place teau; château & gardens adult/ TRIP HIGHLIGHT
child €10.50/7.50; h9.15am-
du Château; adult/child €10/5, 9 Chambord
audioguide €4/3; h9am-6pm 7pm Apr-Sep, 10am-5.30pm A crowning achievement
Oct-Mar) represents the
or 7pm Apr-Oct, 9am-noon zenith of French classical
& 1.30-5.30pm Nov-Mar), of French Renaissance
whose four grand wings architecture: the perfect architecture, Château de
blend of symmetry,
were built during four Chambord (www.chambord.
distinct periods in French geometry and aesthetic org; adult/child €11/9, parking
architecture: Gothic (13th order. Inside are some of €4-6; h9am-5pm or 6pm;
the most sumptuous and
century), Flamboyant c) – with 440 rooms,
Gothic (1498–1501), early elegantly furnished rooms 365 fireplaces and 84
anywhere in the Loire Val-
staircases – is by far the
Renaissance (1515–20)
and classical (1630s). You ley. Highlights include the largest, grandest and most
can easily spend half a formal Dining Room, with visited château in the
LOIRE VALLEY & CENTRAL FRANCE 11 CHâTEAux OF THE LOIRE
panels depicting the story
day immersing yourself Loire Valley. Begun in 1519
in the château’s dramatic of Don Quixote; the King’s by François I (r 1515–47)
Bedchamber, with ceiling
as a weekend hunting
and bloody history and ex-
traordinary architecture. murals and tapestries lodge, it quickly grew into
In the Renaissance illustrating stories from one of the most ambitious
wing, the most remarkable Greek mythology; and a and expensive architectur-
feature is the spiral log- children’s playroom com- al projects ever attempted
plete with toys from the
by a French monarch.
gia staircase, decorated
with fierce salamanders time of Napoléon III. Rising through the
Cheverny’s kennels
and curly Fs, heraldic house pedigreed hunting centre of the structure, the
world-famous double-
symbols of François I. The
King’s Bedchamber was dogs; feeding time, known helix staircase – reputedly
as Soupe des Chiens,
designed by Leonardo
the setting for one of the
bloodiest episodes in the takes place most days da Vinci – ascends to the
château’s history. In 1588 at 11.30am. Behind the great lantern tower and
château, the 18th-century
Henri III had his arch- rooftop, where you can
rival, Duke Henri I de Orangerie, which shel- marvel at a skyline of
tered priceless artworks,
cupolas, domes, turrets,
Guise, murdered by royal
bodyguards (the king is including the Mona Lisa, chimneys and lightning
said to have hidden be- during WWII, is now a rods and gaze out across
warm-season tearoom. the vast grounds.
146

Eating & Sleeping


entrées, two mains and two desserts. It’s small,
Chinon 1 so reserve ahead.
4 Hôtel de France Hotel €€ 4 Le Vieux Manoir B&B €€
(%02 47 93 33 91; www.bestwestern- (%02 47 30 41 27; www.le-vieux-manoir.com; 13
hoteldefrance-chinon.com; 47 place du Général rue Rabelais; d incl breakfast €150-220, f €330,
de Gaulle, aka place de la Fontaine; d €99-139, cottages €260-310; hlate Mar-1 Nov; paW)
apt €175; aW) Run impeccably by the same Set in a lovely walled garden, this restored
couple since 1979, this Best Western–affiliated mansion has oodles of old-time charm. The
hotel, right in the centre of town, has 30 rooms six rooms and two cottages, decorated with
arrayed around an inner courtyard. Tastefully antiques, get lots of natural light, and owners
decorated in a contemporary style, many have Gloria and Bob (expat Americans who once ran
views of the château – as does the magnificent, an award-winning Boston B&B) are generous
flowery terrace on the roof. Offers enclosed with their knowledge of the area.
bicycle parking. No lift.
Blois 7
Langeais 2 5 L’Orangerie LOIRE VALLEY & CENTRAL FRANCE 11 CHâTEAux OF THE LOIRE
5 Au Coin des Halles Bistro €€ du Château Gastronomy €€€
(%02 47 96 37 25; www.aucoindeshalles.com; 9 (%02 54 78 05 36; www.orangerie-du-chateau.
rue Gambetta; lunch menus €16.50, other menus fr; 1 av Dr Jean Laigret; menus €38-84;
€26-55; h12.15-2pm & 7.15-9pm Fri-Tue) Half hnoon-1.45pm & 7-9.15pm Tue-Sat; p) This
a block from the entrance to the château, this Michelin-starred restaurant serves cuisine
elegant eatery is mi-bistrot, mi-gastro (half- gastronomique inventive inspired by both French
bistro, half-gastronomic restaurant), serving tradition and culinary ideas from faraway lands.
delicious cuisine du marché (cuisine based on The wine list comes on a tablet computer. For
what’s available fresh in the markets) grown and dessert try the speciality, soufflé.
raised by local producers.
Cheverny 8
Amboise 6
4 La Levraudière B&B €
5 La Fourchette French €€ (%02 54 79 81 99; www.lalevraudiere.fr; 1
CaptionCaptionCaptionCaption
(%06 11 78 16 98; 9 rue Malebranche; lunch/ chemin de la Levraudière; d incl breakfast €80,
dinner menus €17/30; hnoon-1.30pm Tue-Sat, 5-person ste €150; W) In a peaceful farmhouse
7-8.30pm Fri & Sat, plus Tue & Wed evenings from 1892, amid 3.5 hectares of grassland, La
summer) Hidden away in a back alley off rue Levraudière’s four rooms are comfortable and
Nationale, this is Amboise’s favourite address homey and come with king-size beds. Sonia
for family-style French cooking – chef Christine Maurice, the friendly owner, speaks English and
will make you feel as though you’ve been invited is happy to supply local cycling maps. Situated
to her house for lunch. The menu has just two 2.5km south of the Château de Cheverny.










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