Lonely Planet France’s Best Trips (Travel Guide)

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Bourgoin- 4 4444444 the village offers truffle
Parc Naturel # \ St-Étienne Jallieu hunts. Accompany the
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Yssingeaux Grenoble # ] 444444444444
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Le Puy- Valence # ] Régional Briançon # \ # ] Musée National de
en-Velay # \ du Vercors Pinerolo Préhistoire
Chabeuil # \
# \ Langogne # \ Privas DRÔME A brilliant place to do
ARDÈCHE # \ Montélimar your homework on the
# \ Vézère Valley’s cave art.
Parc National Grignan # \ # \ Valreas
des Cévennes Bone up on Trip z
# \ Château-Arnoux
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Orange St-Auban
GARD # ] Villars- # \
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Alès Les Mées # \ # \ Domme
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# ]Avignon PROVENCE Explore this spectacular
Nîmes # ] # \ Orgon Parc Naturel Nice
Régional du
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Arles Luberon Antibes hilltop village, with its
# ] # ] views over the Dordogne
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# ] Aix-en-Provence Cannes valley. Take it all in on
Montpellier : F G : # \ # \
# \ Sète Parc Naturel 38 : Fréjus Trip {
Régional de
Camargue # ^
Marseille / · # \ Domaine
A50
Golfe de Beauduc # ] du Rayol
Toulon Najac
MEDITERRANEAN This fairy-tale castle
SEA offers some of the most
0 100 km
# e 0 50 miles breathtaking views
in southwest France.
Explore it on Trip {
Tapas
Tuck into these tasty
bites and wonder
whether you’re in
France, Spain or
somewhere else
AZAM JEAN-PAUL / GETTY IMAGES ©
altogether. Indulge
yourself on Trip w
La Roque Gageac Boating on the Dordogne River
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ULCANELLI / SHUTTERSTOCK ©
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Basque Country 32





Feisty and independent, the Basque Country is famous for the glitzy
resort of Biarritz. But on this tour you’ll also fall for delightful
fishing ports, chocolate-box villages and jade-green rolling hills.

TRIP HIGHLIGHTS
7 DAYS
30 km 117KM / 73 MILES
St-Jean de Luz
Taste traditional #lL
Basque seafood # GREAT FOR…
# #
2
dishes Bayonne
13 km HBG
Biarritz
# #
# Treat yourself to tapas BEST TIME TO GO
5
and watch surfers
tackle the waves September and
October offer the
# #
# best combination
8
Sare # # of weather and low
Ainhoa crowds.
I ESSENTIAL
72 km PHOTO
Espelette Looking across
Potter about a St-Étienne Grande Plage in
picturesque Basque de Baïgorry # Biarritz from the
#
# #
11
village m K southern headland.
St-Jean Pied de Port BEST FOR
Walk in the footsteps K CULTURE
of millions of pilgrims
Absorbing the Basque
117 km spirit of old Bayonne.
B Location Caption details to go hereayonne Festive flags in the streets 351

32 Basque 1 Bayonne
Surrounded by sturdy
fortifications and
Country
splashed in red and white
paint, Bayonne is one of
the most attractive towns
Driving into the village of Espelette you’ll be in southwest France. Its
perfectly preserved old
struck by how different everything is from town and riverside res-
other parts of the country. The houses are taurants are an absolute
all tarted up in the red and white of Basque delight to explore, but
the town is best known
buildings, streamers of chilli peppers hang from to French people for
roof beams, and from open windows comes a producing some of the
nation’s finest chocolate
language you don’t recognise. As you’ll discover and ham.
Inside the Musée
on this tour, being different from the rest of Basque et de l’Histoire de
France is exactly how the proud Basques like it. Bayonne (%05 59 59 08 98;




# e 0 0 10 miles 20 km 175 km to F G ‚
33
Bayonne
Biarritz Anglet # 1 l L
# \ #
# \ #
2
# # \
Cité de
#
3
Bay of #
Biscay l’Océan # \ La Negresse
0 ¸ Arcangues / ·
A64
D810
# \ # \ # \ Vilefranque
Guéthary # Bidart 0 ¸
4
#
/ · # \ Ahetze D932
A63
#
St-Jean de Luz# # \ Ustaritz
5
# \
0 ¸ St-Pée- Larressore # \
D918
San sur-Nivelle
# \
Sebastián / · # \ Ascain Col de Espelette
A63
# \ #
8
# ^ Pinodiéta #
H Col de c (176m) / · 0¸ # \ #
#
D20
9
D4
p354 St-Ignace Sare / · c D249 #
Itxassou
# \
# \ # 7
R 0 ¸ Ainhoa#
D306
La Rhune # \ Dantxarinea Nive
# \ Bera de (905m)
BASQUE Bidasoa
#
6
COUNTRY # Grottes
de Sare
# \ Etxalar
c Puerto de
Otxondo
S P A I N
0 ¸ NAVARRA
N121B
Puerto de
Izpegui
c
# \
# \ Elizondo

www.musee-basque.com; 37 The Drive » Bring a towel Plage Miramar, which
quai des Corsaires; adult/child because we’re taking the 13km are lined end to end with
€6.50/free; h10am-6.30pm (25 minute) beach-bums’ route sunbathing bodies on hot
Jul & Aug, closed Mon rest of to Biarritz. Follow the Adour summer days.
year) the seafaring history, River out of Bayonne down allée For a look under the
traditions and cultural Marines and av de l’Adour. At the waves, check out the
big roundabout turn left onto
identity of the Basque bd des Plages and take your Musée de la Mer (%05 59
people are all explored. pick from any of the beaches 22 75 40; www.museedelamer.
Also worth a visit along this stretch. This road will com; esplanade du Rocher
is Bayonne’s Gothic eventually lead into Biarritz. de la Vierge; adult/child/
Cathédrale Ste-Marie family €14.50/9.80/50, joint
(place Louis Pasteur; h10- TRIP HIGHLIGHT ticket with Cité de l’Océan
11.45am & 3-6.15pm Mon-Sat, €18.50/13/63; h9.30am-
3.30-6.15pm Sun, cloister 9am- 2 Biarritz midnight Jul & Aug, 9.30am-
12.30pm & 2-6pm), whose As ritzy as its name 8pm Apr, Jun, Sep & Oct,
twin towers soar elegantly suggests, this stylish shorter hours rest of year),
above the old city. coastal town took off as rich in underwater life ATLANTIC COAST 32 BASqUE COUNTRY
a resort in the mid-19th from the Bay of Biscay
5 p357
century when Napoléon and beyond.
III and his Spanish-born For life further afield,
wife, Eugénie, visited have a poke about the
regularly. Along its rocky stunning collections of
coastline are architec- Asian art at the Musée
tural hallmarks of this d’Art Oriental Asiatica
golden age, and the belle- (%05 59 22 78 79; www.
époque and art-deco eras museeasiatica.com; 1 rue
Adour that followed. Although Guy Petit; adult/child €10/2;
/ · it retains a high glamour h10.30am-6.30pm Mon-Fri,
2-7pm Sat & Sun Jul, Aug &
A64
quotient (and high prices
Briscous Bardos # \ to match), it’s also a during French school holidays,
\ # magnet for vanloads of shorter hours rest of year).
surfers, with some of
La Bastide Europe’s best waves. 54 p357
\ #
Clairence Biarritz’s raison The Drive » It’s a 4km,
d’être is its fashionable 10-minute drive south out of
beaches, particularly the Biarritz down rue Gambetta
# \ and rue de Madrid to the Cité
Hasparren central Grande Plage and
# Bonloc
\
/ ·
# Mendionde LINK
\
D22
YOUR
# Louhossoa TRIP
\
0 ¸ # Hélette
\
D918
Bidarray Iholdy # \ u Cheat’s x Heritage Wine
\ # Compostela Country
# Irissarry From St-Jean Pied de Port From Bayonne it’s a 192km
\
Ossès \ # work your way in reverse pine-tree-scented drive
PYRÉNÉES- through our cheat’s version to the capital of wine,
0 ¸ ATLANTIQUES of this ancient spiritual Bordeaux, and the start of
D948
Irouléguy journey. our wine tour.
# # / ·
\ #
10 D15 St-Jean Pied F G
30
\ # de Port
St-Étienne # # 0¸
\ #
11
D933
de Baïgorry m K 353

de l’Océan. On the way you’ll rolled into one spectacu- while the offshore reefs
pass some fantastic stretches of lar attraction. Inside the offer some exceptional
sand just calling for you to dip a eye-catching building surf for the brave.
toe in the sea or hang ten on a you’ll learn how the
surfboard. The Drive » It’s another
ocean was born and seriously traffic-clogged 7km
watch giant squid and down the D810 to St-Jean de
3 Cité de l’Océan sperm whales do battle. Luz. This short hop should
only take 10 minutes but it
We don’t really know The Drive » It’s an easy 6km rarely does! Sadly, there’s no
whether it’s fair to call drive down the D911 (av de worthwhile alternative route.
Biarritz’s new showpiece, Biarritz) and the D810, passing
through the village of Bidart,
Cité de l’Océan (%05 59 to the ocean views of pretty
22 75 40; www.citedelocean. Guéthary. Traffic can be awful. TRIP HIGHLIGHT
com; 1 av de la Plage; adult/ 5 St-Jean de Luz
child/family €11.50/7.50/39, If you’re searching for
joint ticket with Musée de la Mer 4 Guéthary the quintessential Basque
€18.50/13/63; h10am-10pm Built onto cliffs overlook- seaside town – with at-
Jul & Aug, 10am-7pm Easter, ing the ocean south of mospheric narrow streets
Apr-Jun, Sep & Oct, shorter Biarritz, this red-and- and a lively fishing port
hours rest of year), a mere white seaside village has pulling in large catches
‘museum’. At heart it’s a gained a reputation as the of sardines and ancho-
museum of the ocean, but Basque Country’s chichi vies that are cooked up at
in reality this is enter- resort of choice for the jet authentic restaurants –
ATLANTIC COAST 32 BASqUE COUNTRY
tainment, cutting-edge set. The pebble beach be- you’ve found it.
technology, theme park low the village offers safe St-Jean de Luz’s
and science museum all beautiful banana-shaped
bathing for all the family,
sandy beach sprouts
stripy bathing tents from
June to September. The
DETOUR: beach is sheltered from
Atlantic swells and is
SAN SEBASTIÁN, SPAIN among the few child-
Start: 5 St-Jean de Luz friendly beaches in the
Spain, and the elegant and lively city of San Basque Country.
With plenty of bou-
Sebastián, is just a few kilometres along the coast tique shops, little cafes
from St-Jean de Luz and put simply, San Sebastián
is not a city you want to miss out on visiting. The and pretty buildings,
town is set around two sickle-shaped beaches, at walking the streets of
least one of which, Playa de la Concha, is the equal the pedestrianised town
of any city beach in Europe. But there’s more to the centre is a real pleasure.
city than just looks. With more Michelin stars per Don’t miss the town’s
capita than anywhere else in the world, and arguably finest church, the Église
the finest tapas in Spain, many a culinary expert has St-Jean Baptiste (rue
been heard to say that San Sebastián is possibly the Gambetta; h8.30am-noon
world’s best food city. & 2-7pm), which has a
By car from St-Jean de Luz, it’s just a short splendid interior with
20-minute jump down the A64 (and past an awful lot a magnificent baroque
of toll booths!), or you can endure the N10, which has altarpiece.
no tolls but gets so clogged up that it will take you a 54 p357
good couple of hours to travel this short distance.


354

BY RUHEY / GETTY IMAGES ©


































St-Jean de Luz Houses on the waterfront
The Drive » The 15km, grottesdesare.fr; adult/child sages to a huge central
20-minute drive down the D918 €8.50/4.50; h10am-7pm Aug, cavern adorned with sta-
and D4 to Sare is a slow road 10am-6pm Apr-Jul & Sep, closed lagmites and stalactites.
through the gorgeous gentle Jan–mid-Feb) – who lived
hills of the pre-Pyrenees. From some 20,000 years ago – The Drive » To get to our
the village of Sare, which is would make of today’s next stop, Ainhoa, retrace your
well worth a wander, hop onto whiz-bang technology, steps to Sare and then jump
the D306 for a further 7km (10 onto the D4. After 14km and 20
minutes) to the Grottes de Sare. including lasers and minutes it’s job done. If you’re
holograms, during the feeling adventurous, you could
sound-and-light shows at weave your way there on any
6 Grottes de Sare these caves. Multilingual number of minor back roads
or even cross briefly into Spain
Who knows what the 45-minute tours take and drive via the lovely village of
first inhabitants of the you through a gaping Zugarrmurdi.
entrance via narrow pas-
Grottes de Sare (www.
355

the village of Irouléguy, which
7 Ainhoa 9 Itxassou you pass roughly around the
halfway point, are home to the
Beautiful Ainhoa’s Famed for its cherries, vines that produce the Basque
elongated main street as well as the beauty of Country’s best-known wine.
is flanked by imposing its surrounds, Itxassou is
17th-century houses, a classic Basque village TRIP HIGHLIGHT
half-timbered and that well rewards a bit of
brightly painted. The exploration. The cherries b St-Jean Pied de
fortified church has the are used in the region’s Port
Basque trademarks of an most famous cake, gateau At the foot of the Pyr-
internal gallery and an Basque, which is available enees, the walled town of
embellished altarpiece. pretty much everywhere St-Jean Pied de Port was
you look throughout the
The Drive » It’s 6km down Basque Country. for centuries the last stop
the D20 to our next halt, in France for pilgrims
Espelette. The Drive » It’s 28km (about heading south over the
30 minutes) down the D918 and Spanish border and on to
D948 to St-Étienne de Baïgorry. Santiago de Compostela
TRIP HIGHLIGHT On the way you’ll pass the village in western Spain. Today
8 Espelette of Bidarry, renowned for its it remains a popular
The whitewashed Basque white-water rafting, and some departure point for hik-
pretty special mountain scenery.
town of Espelette is ers attempting the same
famous for its dark- pilgrim trail.
ATLANTIC COAST 32 BASqUE COUNTRY
red chillies, which are a St-Étienne de St-Jean Pied de Port
an integral ingredient Baïgorry isn’t just about hik-
in traditional Basque ing boots and religious
cuisine. In autumn, the The riverside village of pilgimage, though; its old
walls of the houses are St-Étienne de Baïgorry core, sliced through by
strung with rows of chil- is tranquillity itself. the Nive River, is an at-
lies drying in the sun. Like so many Basque tractive place of cobbled
To learn more about settlements, the village streets and geranium-
the chillies, and taste and has two focal points: the covered balconies.
buy chilli products, visit church and the fronton Specific sights worth
l’Atelier du Piment (%05 (court for playing pelota, seeking out include Ég-
59 93 90 21; www.atelier the local ball game). It’s lise Notre Dame du Bout
dupiment.com; h9am-8pm the kind of place to while du Pont, which was thor-
Apr-Oct, to 6pm Nov-Mar) on away an afternoon doing oughly rebuilt in the 17th
the edge of town. nothing very much at all. century. Beyond Porte de
Notre Dame (the main
The Drive » The next leg is The Drive » It’s a quiet gate into the old town)
an exceedingly pretty 6km (10 11km (20 minute) drive along is photogenic Vieux Pont
minutes) down the D249 to the the rural D15 to our final stop (Old Bridge), the town’s
cherry capital, Itxassou. St-Jean Pied de Port. The best-known landmark.
thirsty will be interested to
know that the hills around
5 p357









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Eating & Sleeping




Bayonne 1 St-Jean de Luz 5
5 Table de Pottoka Gastronomy €€ 5 Buvette des Halles Seafood €
(%05 59 46 14 94; www.pottoka.fr; 21 quai Amiral (%05 59 26 73 59; bd Victor Hugo; dishes €7-14;
Dubourdieu; lunch menu €15, dinner menu €35, à h6am-2pm & dinner, closed Tue Sep-Jun) For
la carte mains €20; hnoon-2pm & 7-10pm Mon- the full-blown French market experience, this
Tue & Thu-Sat) Run by renowned chef Sebastien tiny corner restaurant hidden away in Les Halles
Gravé (who also runs a place in Paris), this is is a must. Pull up a stool at the counter under
Bayonne’s hottest new table. It’s committed its collection of vintage tea-pots, and tuck
to big Basque flavours, but explores them in into plates of Bayonne ham, grilled sardines,
all kinds of innovative ways. Inside things are mussels, fish soup and local cheeses. In
sleek and minimal, with plain wooden tables and summer there are tables outside.
pop-art prints on the walls, and there are dreamy ATLANTIC COAST 32 BASqUE COUNTRY
river views through the plate-glass windows. 4 Les Almadiès Hotel €€
(%05 59 85 34 48; www.hotel-les-almadies.
com; 58 rue Gambetta; d €100-135; W) Summer
Biarritz 2 bargains are hard to come by in St-Jean de Luz,
but this pretty little streetside hotel definitely
5 Le Clos Basque Basque €€ ranks as one. It’s in a great location on the lively
(%05 59 24 24 96; 12 rue Louis Barthou; menus thoroughfare of rue Gambetta, overlooking a
€26, mains €14.50; hnoon-1.30pm & 7.45-9.30 little square, and though the rooms are a bit
Tue-Sat, noon-1.30pm Sun) One of Biarritz’s generic – beige carpets, white bathrooms,
more traditional tables, with a sweet front patio identikit furniture – there’s no doubting the
sheltered by climbing plants and an awning. deal here.
The menu is proudly Basque, so expect classic
dishes such as axoa (mashed veal, onions and
tomatoes spiced with red Espelette chilli). It St-Jean Pied de Port b
gets very busy, so service can be slow.
5 Chez Arrambide Gastronomy €€€
4 Hôtel de (%05 59 37 01 01; www.hotel-les-pyrenees.
Silhouette Boutique Hotel €€€ com; 19 place Charles de Gaulle; menus €42-110,
(%05 59 24 93 82; www.hotel-silhouette-biarritz. mains €34-52; h12.15-1.45pm & 7.45-9pm Jul
com; 30 rue Gambetta; d from €200; aW) The & Aug, Wed-Mon Sep-Jun) This twin Michelin-
address if you want to splash in Biarritz, just starred restaurant at the Hôtel des Pyrénées is
steps from the covered market, but surprisingly renowned for miles around, and is where chef
secluded thanks to its set-back-from-the-street Firmin Arrambide works wonders with market
setting. It’s full of fun, from the weird faces on produce. It’s a high-class treat, where dishes
the wallpaper to the odd sculptures of bears are as arty as they are edible. Pricey rooms (r
and sheep dotted round, and there’s a gorgeous €105 to €225) are available upstairs.
garden. The building dates from 1610, but it’s
metropolitan modern in style.










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ELFI KLUCK / GETTY IMAGES ©
Heritage Wine


Country 33





This is the trip for those who appreciate the finer things in life:
great wine, fabulous regional cuisine and gentle driving through
glorious vine-ribboned countryside studded with grand châteaux.

TRIP HIGHLIGHTS
5 DAYS
130 km 257KM / 160 MILES
75 km St-Émilion
Home to some of the
Blaye world's most famous GREAT FOR…
Learn how to wines
construct the perfect HB
fortress
# # #
#
5
BEST TIME TO GO
September and
0 km # St-Antoine October: the grape
harvest takes place,
Bordeaux Louens # oysters are in season.
Learn about wine
in this Unesco-listed #
# # #
6
city l L # 1 # # # I ESSENTIAL
PHOTO
Red roofs of St-
Émilion from place
des Créneaux.
# # #
8
#
m K Arcachon K BEST FOR
#
FOODIES
Dune du Pilat
Feast on oysters on Slurping fresh oysters
the seashore at Bordeaux’s Marché
245 km des Capucins.
St 359
Location Caption details to go here-Émilion Wine shops line the cobbled streets

TRIP HIGHLIGHT
Heritage Wine
33 Country 1 Bordeaux
Gourmet Bordeaux is a
city of sublime food and
long, lazy sun-drenched
days. Half the city (18
10am: the southern sun warms your face sq km) is Unesco-listed,
and you’re standing in a field surrounded by making it the largest
urban World Heritage
vines heavy with ready-to-burst grapes. 1pm: site – and an absolutely
cutlery clinks, tummies sigh in bliss and you’re delight to wander around
(p410). Barista-run coffee
on a gastronomic adventure in a top-class shops, super-food food
restaurant. 7pm: toes in the sand, Atlantic trucks, an exceptional
dining scene and more
breezes in your hair and you down an oyster in fine wine than you could
one. All this and more awaits on this refined ever possibly drink make
it a city hard to resist.
culinary trip.




# e 0 0 25 miles 50 km # \ Saintes
# \ Cognac
Royan CHARENTE- 0 ¸ Angoulême
Pointe # \ MARITIME D732 # \
A T L A N T I C de Grave # \ # \ CHARENTE
O C E A N Pons
Soulac- # \
sur-Mer 0 ¸
D731
Gironde / ·
Estuary A10
# \ Barbezieux
# \ St-Vivien H Jonzac
# \
#
Montalivet # \
Lesparre- p362
Médoc
# \
St-Estèphe # \ / ·
Hourtin N10
Plage # \ 0 ¸
# \ #
D137
3
Bay of Pauillac # # \ Montguyon
Biscay
Château #
4
#
5
# \
Carcans Lanessan #
Plage # \ 0 ¸ Blaye 0 ¸ # \
D1215
# ‚
D137
Lacanau Castelnau- # \ Lagorce
Océan # \ de-Médoc La Winery # \ St-Antoine
#
2
# \
Lacanau # \ # St-Denis
Sainte- # \ Louens 0 ¸ # \ de Pile
D670
Hélène / · #I 100 km to ‚
D1
La Temple # \ l L p410 / · # \ # F G
Libourne
#
6
# \ St-Émilion
34
N89
# 1
# ^
Lège # # \ Artigues-près-
# \ Bordeaux Bordeaux
# \ # \ Créon # \ Rauzan
Villenave-
# \
Gujan GIRONDE Cestas d'Ornon
Arcachon# Mestras / · # \ Sauveterre
A63
#
8
# 0 ¸ de Guyenne
# 7
A660
m K 150 km to Illats # \
# \ #
Dune du Pilat #
9
F G ‚ des Landes de Cascogne # \ Langon
Parc Naturel Régional
32

Wine aficionados will
adore La Cité du Vin TOP TIP:
(%05 56 81 38 47; www.
laciteduvin.com; 1 Esplanade OYSTERS AT CAPUCINS
de Pontac; adult/child €20/ A classic Bordeaux experience is a Saturday morning
free; h9.30am-7.30pm daily spent slurping oysters and white wine from one of
Apr-Oct, 9.30am-7.30pm Tue- the seafood stands at Marché des Capucins (http://
Sun Nov-Mar), a stunning marchedescapucins.com; place des Capucins; h6am-1pm
contemporary building Tue-Sun). Afterwards you can peruse the stalls while
designed to resemble shopping for the freshest ingredients to take on a
a (very modern) wine picnic.
decanter on the banks of
the River Garonne. The
curvaceous gold building Sat, 9.30am-6.30pm Sun Jul various fee-based tast-
glitters in the sun and its & Aug, shorter hours Sep-Jun) ings, including innovative
3000 sq metres of exhib- runs a packed program ones that determine your
its inside, dedicated to of city tours in English, signe œnologique (‘wine
immersing visitors in the including gourmet and sign’) costing from €16 ATLANTIC COAST 33 HERITAGE WINE COuNTRY
complex world of wine, wine tours, river cruises (booking required). It
are equally sensational. in the warmer months, stocks more than 1000
Tours end with a glass of and child-friendly tours. different wines.
wine in the panoramic All tours take a limited
Latitude 20 wine bar on number of participants; The Drive » It’s 29km (30
the 8th floor. reserve ahead. minutes) from Arsac to Pauillac
The tourist office (%05 along the D1215, which becomes
ever more rural. From the centre
56 00 66 00; www.bordeaux- 54 p44, p366 of Pauillac continue 2km south
tourisme.com; 12 cours du 30 The Drive » It’s a 24km trip to get to Bages and Café Lavinal.
Juillet; h9am-7.30pm Mon- along the D1 from Bordeaux to
La Winery in Arsac. Technically
this should take around 40 3 Pauillac
LINK minutes, but traffic around Northwest of Bordeaux,
YOUR Bordeaux can be dreadful so along the western shore
allow longer.
TRIP of the Gironde Estuary –
formed by the conflu-
w Basque Country 2 La Winery ence of the Garonne and
From Arcachon Dordogne Rivers – lie
drive 182km through the Part giant wine shop, part some of Bordeaux’s most
grape-flavoured theme
forests of Les Landes celebrated vineyards. On
to Bayonne and our park, and part wine the banks of the muddy
Spanish-flavoured museum, La Winery (%05 Gironde, the port town
Basque Country tour. 56 39 04 90; www.winery.fr; of Pauillac is at the heart
rte du Verdon, Rond-point des of the wine country, sur-
y Gourmet Vendangeurs, Arsac-en-Médoc; rounded by the distin-
h10.30am-7.30pm Tue-Sun,
Dordogne
Slip some truffle hunting boutique 10am-8pm Jun-Sep, guished Haut-Médoc,
Margaux and St-Julien
into your wine tour. From to 7.30pm Oct-May) is a vast appellations. Extraor-
St-Émilion it’s a mere glass-and-steel wine dinary châteaux pepper
100km to Périgueux and centre that mounts con- these parts, including
our Gourmet Dordogne certs and contemporary- Château Margaux with
drive. art exhibits alongside striking new cellars that

361

were designed by Lord zinc bar, and a menu of Château Lanessan (%05
Norman Foster in 2015. French classics overseen 56 58 94 80; www.lanessan.
The Pauillac wine ap- by twin Michelin-starred com; Cussac-Fort-Medoc;
pellation encompasses 18 chef Jean-Luc Rocha adult/child €8/2; h9am-
crus classés in all, includ- from nearby Château noon & 2-6pm by advance
ing the world-renowned Cordeillan-Bages. reservation), whose daily
Mouton Rothschild, The Drive » Count no more hour-long guided tours
Latour and Lafite Roths- than 15 minutes to cover the take in the neoclassical
child. The town’s tourist 9km between Bages and the château, its English-style
office houses the Maison next stop. Follow the D2 south gardens with magnificent
du Tourisme et du Vin out of Pauillac for almost 7km, 19th-century green-
(%05 56 59 03 08; www. turn right towards Lachesnaye, house, the stables built
pauillac-medoc.com; La Ver- and continue for another 1.5km in 1880 in the shape of a
rerie; h9.30am-7pm Mon-Sat, then turn right to Château horseshoe with marble
10am-1pm & 2-6pm Sun), with Lanessan. feed troughs, the pine-
information on châteaux panelled tack room and a
and how to visit them. 4 Château horse museum with sev-
Essential is lunch at eral 19th-century horse-
Café Lavinal (www.jmcazes. Lanessan drawn carriages. Tours
com/en/cafe-lavinal; Passage There are so many end with wine tasting.
du Desquet, Bages; menus châteaux around here Advance reservations, at
€28 & €38, mains €12-25; with such a confusing least one day before, are
hnoon-2pm & 7.30-9pm, web of opening times and obligatory.
cafe from 8am), a mind- visiting regulations that The Drive » Getting to
blowing village bistro it can be hard to know Blaye involves splashing over
ATLANTIC COAST 33 HERITAGE WINE COuNTRY
in Bages with retro red where to begin. One of the Gironde River on a car
banquet seating and the easiest to visit is ferry – how exciting! Return
to the D2 and head south to
Lamarque where you hop on
board the ferry (passenger/car
DETOUR: €2.70/14.10, departures every
1½ hours in July and August)
COGNAC for the short crossing to Blaye.
It’s 11km from the château to
Start: 5 Blaye the ferry.
On the banks of the Charente River amid vine-
covered countryside, the picturesque town of TRIP HIGHLIGHT
Cognac, home of the double-distilled spirit that bears
its name, proves that there’s more to southwest 5 Blaye
France than just wine. If you want a lesson in
The best-known Cognac houses are open to the how to build a protective
public, running tours of their cellars and production citadel, then the spectac-
facilities, and ending with a tasting session. The ular Citadelle de Blaye is
tourist office (%05 45 82 10 71; www.tourism-cognac. about as good an exam-
com; 16 rue du 14 Juillet; h9am-7pm Mon-Sat, 10am-5pm ple as you could hope to
Sun Jul-Aug, shorter hours rest of year) can give advice on find. Largely constructed
current opening hours of each Cognac house. by that master fortress-
It’s 85km from Blaye to Cognac, much of which is builder Vauban in the
along the A10 highway. From Cognac you can cut 17th century, it was a key
down to stop 6, St-Émilion, in two hours on the D731 line of defence protect-
followed by the busy N10. ing Bordeaux from naval


362

ESPERANZA33 / GETTY IMAGES ©

































St-Émilion Vineyards outside the village
attack. It was inscribed one of the tourist office’s
onto the Unesco World TRIP HIGHLIGHT varied guided tours (adult/
Heritage List in 2008. 6 St-Émilion child from €8/free).
The Drive » From Blaye to The medieval village of The tourist office also
St-Émilion is a 50km drive. From St-Émilion perches above organises two-hour after-
Blaye take the D137 toward vineyards renowned for noon château visits (adult/
St-André de Cubzac, where you producing full-bodied red child €12/free), and runs
join the D670 to Libourne. After various events through-
a bit of time stuck in traffic you wines and is easily the out the year, such as Les
continue down to St-Émilion. It most alluring of all the Samedis de l’Oenologie
should take an hour but traffic region’s wine towns. (tours €77), which combines
means it will probably take The only way to visit a vineyard visit, lunch,
longer! the town’s most interest- town tour and wine-tast-
ing historical sites is with
ing course on Saturdays.

363

For a fun and informa- N89, then south down the A63 small Maison de l’Huître
tive introduction to wine following signs to Arcachon (www.maison-huitre.fr; rue
tasting, get stuck into and then Gujan Mestras. It’s a du Port de Larros; adult/child
some ‘blind’ tastings 100km journey that should, but €5.80/3.80; h10am-12.45pm
probably won’t, take an hour.
at L’École du Vin de & 2.15-6.30pm Jul & Aug, 10am-
St-Émilion. The adjacent 12.30pm & 2.30-6pm Mon-Sat
Maison du Vin (%05 57 55 7 Gujan Mestras Sep-Jun) has a display on
50 55; www.maisonduvin oyster farming, including
saintemilion.com; place Pierre Take a break from the a short film in English.
Meyrat; h9.30am-12.30pm grape and head to the
& 2-6.30pm) also offers seaside to eat oysters in The Drive » It’s 10
sometimes-traffic-clogged but
bilingual 1½-hour wine- the area around Gujan well-signposted kilometres from
tasting classes. Reserve Mestras. Picturesque Gujan Mestras to Arcachon.
all tours in advance. oyster ports are dotted
around the town, but the
54 p366, p409 best one to visit is Port TRIP HIGHLIGHT
de Larros, where locally
The Drive » To get to the next 8 Arcachon
stop you’ve simply no option but harvested oysters are sold The seaside town of
to endure the ring road around from wooden shacks. To Arcachon has lured
Bordeaux – avoid rush hour! learn more about these bourgeois Bordelaises
Head toward Bordeaux on the delicious shellfish, the
since the end of the 19th

ON THE WINE TRAIL
ATLANTIC COAST 33 HERITAGE WINE COuNTRY
Thirsty? The 1000-sq-km wine-growing area around the city of Bordeaux is, along
with Burgundy, France’s most important producer of top-quality wines.
The Bordeaux region is divided into 57 appellations (production areas whose
soil and microclimate impart distinctive characteristics to the wine produced
there) that are grouped into seven families, and then subdivided into a hierarchy of
designations (eg premier grand cru classé, the most prestigious) that often vary
from appellation to appellation. The majority of the Bordeaux region’s reds, rosés,
sweet and dry whites and sparkling wines have earned the right to include the
abbreviation AOC (Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée) on their labels, indicating that
the contents have been grown, fermented and aged according to strict regulations
that govern such viticultural matters as the number of vines permitted per hectare
and acceptable pruning methods.
Bordeaux has more than 5000 châteaux, referring not to palatial residences
but rather to the properties where grapes are raised, picked, fermented and then
matured as wine. The smaller châteaux sometimes accept walk-in visitors, but
at many places, especially the better-known ones, you have to make advance
reservations. Many close during the vendange (grape harvest) in October.
Whet your palate with the Bordeaux tourist office informal introduction to wine
and cheese courses (adult €25) where you sip three different wines straight from
the cellar and sup on cheese.
Serious students of the grape can enrol at the École du Vin (Bordeaux Wine School;
%05 56 00 22 85; www.bordeaux.com; 3 cours du 30 juillet), within the Maison du Vin de
Bordeaux, across the street from the tourist office. Introductory two-hour courses
(adult €25) are held Monday to Saturday from 10am to noon between July and
September.


364

century. Its four little
quarters are romantically
named for each of the TOP TIP:
seasons, with villas that OYSTER TASTE TEST
evoke the town’s golden
past amid a scattering of Oysters from each of the Bassin d’Arcachon’s
1950s architecture. four oyster-breeding zones hint at subtly different
flavours. See if you can detect these:
Arcachon’s sandy
beach, Plage d’Arcachon, Banc d’Arguin – milk and sugar
Île aux Oiseaux – minerals
is flanked by two piers.
Lively Jetée Thiers is at Cap Ferret – citrus
Grand Banc – roasted hazelnuts
the western end. In front
of the eastern pier, Jetée
d’Eyrac, stands the town’s ited ‘bird island’ in the spreading eastwards at
turreted Casino de la middle of Arcachon bay. 4.5m a year – it has swal-
Plage, built by Adalbert It’s a haven for tern, lowed trees, a road junc-
Deganne in 1953 as an ex- curlew and redshank, so tion and even a hotel.
act replica of Château de bring your binoculars. In The view from the ATLANTIC COAST 33 HERITAGE WINE COuNTRY
Boursault in the Marne. summer there are regular top – approximately
Inside, it’s a less-grand all-day excursions (11am 114m above sea level – is
blinking and bell-ringing to 5.30pm) to the Banc magnificent. To the west
riot of poker machines d’Arguin, the sand bank you can see the sandy
and gaming tables. off the Dune du Pilat. shoals at the mouth of
On the tree-covered the Bassin d’Arcachon,
hillside south of the Ville 54 p367 and dense dark-green
d’Été, the century-old The Drive » Dune du Pilat is pine forests stretch from
Ville d’Hiver (Winter 12km south of Arcachon down the base of the dune east-
Quarter) has more than the D218. There are restrictions wards almost as far as
300 villas ranging in on car access in summer for the the eye can see. The only
style from neo-Gothic last part of the route. address to have a drink
through to colonial. or dine afterwards is La
For a different view of Co(o)rniche (%05 56 22
Arcachon and its coast- 9 Dune du Pilat 72 11; www.lacoorniche-pyla.
line, take to the ocean This colossal sand dune com; 46 av Louis Gaume, Pyla-
waves on one of the boat (sometimes referred sur-Mer; 2-/3-course lunch
cruises organised by Les to as the Dune de Pyla menu €53/58, seafood platters
Bateliers Arcachonnais because of its location in €40-85), a 1930s hunting
(%08 25 27 00 27; www. the resort town of Pyla- lodge transformed by
bateliers-arcachon.com; 75 sur-Mer) stretches from French designer Philippe
bd de la Plage; c). It offers the mouth of the Bassin Starck into one of
daily, year-round cruises d’Arcachon southwards France’s most stunning
around the Île aux for almost 3km. Already seaside restaurants.
Oiseaux, the uninhab- the largest in Europe, it’s










365

Eating & Sleeping


collection of vintage curiosities, inspires love
Bordeaux 1 at first sight at this thoroughly contemporary,
design-driven B&B in the trendy former wine-
5 Magasin Général International € merchant quarter of Chartrons. Across the road
(%05 56 77 88 35; www.magasingeneral.camp/; from, and run by, the bistro of the same name,
87 quai des Queyries; 2-/3-course menu €14/18, Chez Dupont is one of the best deals in town.
mains €9-19; h8.30am-6pm Wed-Fri, 8.30am- 4 L’Hôtel
midnight Sat, 10am-midnight Sun, kitchen Particulier Boutique Hotel €€€
noon-2.15pm & 7-10pm; W) Follow the hip crowd
across the river to this huge industrial hangar (%05 57 88 28 80; www.lhotel-particulier.com;
on the right bank, France’s biggest and best 44 rue Vital-Carles; d €189-299; W) Step into
organic restaurant with gargantuan terrace this fabulous boutique hotel and be wowed by
complete with vintage sofa seating, ping-pong period furnishings mixed with contemporary
table and table football. Everything here, from design, extravagant decorative touches and
the vegan burgers and super-food salads to an atmospheric courtyard garden. Its five
smoothies, pizzas, wine and French bistro fare, individually designed hotel rooms (breakfast
is bio (organic) and sourced locally. Sunday €12) match up to expectations with vintage
brunch (€24) is a bottomless feast. fireplaces, carved ceilings and bathtubs with
legs. Exceptional value are the suite of equally
5 Le Petit Commerce Seafood €€ well-furnished self-catering apartments, sleeping
(05 56 79 76 58; 22 rue Parlement St-Pierre; one (€89), two (€109) or four people (€179).
2-course lunch menu €14, mains €15-25;
hnoon-midnight) This iconic bistro, with dining
ATLANTIC COAST 33 HERITAGE WINE COuNTRY
rooms both sides of a narrow pedestrian street St-Émilion 6
and former Michelin-starred chef Stéphane
Carrade in the kitchen, is the star turn of the 5 L’Envers du Decors French €€
trendy St-Pierre quarter. It’s best known for (%06 57 74 48 31; www.envers-dudecor.com;
its excellent seafood menu that embraces 11 rue du Clocher; mains €17.50-35; hnoon-
everything from Arcachon sole and oysters to 2.30pm & 7-10.30pm) A few doors down from
eels, lobsters and chipirons (baby squid) fresh the tourist office, this wine bar is one of the
from St-Jean de Luz. best places to eat – and inevitably drink – in
this tasteful wine town. The kitchen cooks
5 La Tupina Regional Cuisine €€€ up fabulous local classics like lamproie à la
(%05 56 91 56 37; www.latupina.com; 6 rue Bordelaise (a local eel-like fish simmered in red
Porte de la Monnaie; lunch menu €18, dinner wine), duck liver pan-fried in Sauternes and
menus €39 & €74; hnoon-2pm & 7-11pm Tue- oysters by the dozen.
Sun) Filled with the aroma of soup simmering
inside a tupina (‘kettle’ in Basque) over an open 5 La Table de
fire, this iconic bistro is feted for its seasonal Plaisance Gastronomy €€€
southwestern French fare: think foie gras and (Hostellerie de Plaisance; %05 57 55 07
egg cassoullette (mini casserole), milk-fed lamb, 55; www.hostelleriedeplaisance.com; place
tripe and goose wings. Hopefully nothing will du Clocher; menus €78-134, mains €49-57;
change following the 2016 retirement of the hnoon-1.30pm Sat, 7.30-9.30pm Tue-Sat) Wine
gregarious Jean-Pierre Xiradakis, life and soul pairings are naturally in a league of their own
of La Tupina since 1968. at this exquisite Michelin-starred restaurant,
in the heart of the village in luxurious, five-star
4 Chez Dupont B&B €€ Hostellerie de Plaisance. Tasting menus include
(%05 56 81 49 59; www.chez-dupont.com; 45 rue a mystery eight-course extravaganza served to
Notre Dame; s/d from €85/100) Five impeccably the whole table or more modest three- and five-
decorated rooms, peppered with a wonderful course feasts. Advance reservations essential.


366

4 Maison de la
Commanderie B&B €€ Arcachon 8
(%05 57 24 26 59; www.maisondelacommand Seafood €€
erie.com; 3bis rue de la Porte Brunet; d €155-235; 5 Club Plage Pereire
W) Snug in a traditional ginger-stone maison (%05 57 16 59 13; www.clubplagepereire.com;
de village across the road from 14th-century 12 bd de la Mer; mains €20; h10am-midnight
Cloître de Cordeliers, this four-room guesthouse Apr-Oct) Each year this pop-up beach hut on
enchants. Rooms mix original features (like sandy Plage Pereire is built afresh, much to the
exposed stone walls) and period furniture joy of local foodies and bons vivants who flock
with stylish contemporary fabrics and other here for tasty seafood cuisine, the buzzing
decorative touches. Two overlook the cloister beach vibe, impossible romantic drinks on the
and vineyards, and two have a majestic sand and stunning sunset views. To get here
panorama of burnt-red rooftops and the green from Jetée Thiers, follow the coast west along
Dordogne Valley beyond. bd de la Plage and bd de l’Océan, for 2km.
Reservations essential.
4 Grand Barrail Chateau €€€
(%05 57 55 37 00; www.grand-barrail.com; rte 4 Hôtel Villa Boutique Hotel €€
de Libourne; d €320; aWs) Grand doesn’t d’Hiver
even begin to describe this immense château, (%05 56 66 10 36; www.hotelvilledhiver.com; 20 ATLANTIC COAST 33 HERITAGE WINE COuNTRY
built in 1850, with its 46 antique-dressed av Victor Hugo; d from €165; hreception 8am-
rooms, spa, stone-flagged heated swimming 10pm; aiWs) In the heart of Arcachon’s
pool, vast park and helipad on the front lawn. stylish 1860s Ville d’Hiver district, this 12-room
Undoubtedly the best seat in its gastronomic boutique hotel seduces with a trio of garden-clad
restaurant (menus €55 and €65) is the corner houses a 10-minute walk from the train station.
table framed by exquisite 19th-century stained Pricier, balcony-clad rooms on the 1st floor can
glass. Find the castle 3km from St-Émilion glimpse the sea and the hotel’s pop-up Club Plage
village, signposted off the D243. Breakfast €24. Pereire is one of the hottest addresses in town.































367

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Location Caption details to go here

#
Gourmet
ANDREW MONTGOMERY / LONELY PALNET ©

Dordogne 34





The Dordogne is definitely a place that thinks with its stomach. On
this foodie tour you’ll indulge in the region’s gastronomic goodies,
from walnuts and truffles to fine wine and foie gras.

TRIP HIGHLIGHTS
3 DAYS
114 km 51 km 138KM / 85 MILES
Bergerac St-Cyprien
Educate your palate by Join an expert on a hunt
tasting Bergerac's for the elusive truffe noire GREAT FOR…
vintage wines (black truffle)
H
Vergt
#
# BEST TIME TO GO
Mortemart
l L September and
October for harvest
# 1 # # # markets; December
# # #
5
# 7 # # # # # and February for
# # #
3
m K truffle season.
# Monbazillac
I ESSENTIAL
PHOTO
0 km A picnic among
Sarlat-la-Canéda the endless vines
Browse the stalls of surrounding Bergerac.
Sarlat's atmospheric
street markets
17 km K BEST FOR
FOODIES
Carsac-Aillac Shop till you drop at
Visit a local goose farm
and try some foie gras the Dordogne’s open-
air markets.
D Location Caption details to go hereordogne Black truffles 369

TRIP HIGHLIGHT
Gourmet
34 Dordogne 1 Sarlat-la-Canéda
Start in the honey-stoned
town of Sarlat-la-Canéda,
which hosts a busy out-
door market on Saturday
If you enjoy nothing better than soaking up the mornings. Local farmers
sights, sounds and smells of a French market, set up their stalls on the
cobbled place de la Liber-
you’ll be in seventh heaven in the Dordogne. té, selling seasonal treats
This region is famous for its foodie traditions, such as cèpe mushrooms,
duck terrines, foie gras,
and immersing yourself in its culinary culture walnuts and even truffes
is one of the best – and tastiest – ways to noires (black truffles).
There’s also an atmos-
experience life in rural France. pheric night market (h6-
10pm) on Thursdays from
mid-June to September,
and truffle markets
# \


# e 0 0 10 miles 20 km # \
Perigueux
A89
Saint-Astier # \ / · # \ / ·
A89
Saint-Laurent- Thenon # \
sur-Manoire
Neuvic # \ 0 ¸
D710
Isle # \ Manzac- # \ Église-Neuve- Rouffignac-
sur-Vern
de-Vergt
Saint-Cermin-
Mussidan # \ / · Vergt Lacropte # \ de-Reihac # \ Plazac
N21
# \
/ · Issac # \ / ·
D45
# \
A89
#
# \ Mortemart
#
6
Douville # \ / · / · Le Moustier # \
D21
D47
Saint-
0 ¸ # \ Jean- DORDOGNE Journiac # \ Manaurie # \ Tursac
D709
d'Eyraud # \ Clermont-de- # \ 0 ¸ # \
D710
Beauregrad Saint- # \ # \ # \
/ · Alvère Les-Eyzies Sureuil
Ginestet # \ D21 Le Bugue # \
80 km to La Force Lembras # \ / · # \ Meyrais
D35
F G # \ # \ Limeuil
33
‚ # \ 0¸ Bergerac # 7 # \ # 0 ¸ # Creysse St-Cyprien#
5
# \ #
#
8
# \
D660
D936
D29
D703
# \
Gardonne Lalinde / · Le Buisson- / · 0 ¸
# \
m K
/ · Cussac D25
D14
# \
#
9
# \ # Siorac-en-
Gageac- Monbazilac Périgord
et-Rouillac
Beaumont-
du-Périgord # \ Bouillac # \ Belvès
# \
0 ¸ / · Issigeac 0 ¸
N21
D933
# \ D710
# \
Lavalade
# \ # \ La Croix
36
Eymet # \ Monpazier # \ FG d'Empéoute
# \
# \
# \

(hmornings from 9am Sat The Drive » Travel 9km east de noix au chocolat
Dec-Feb) from December of Sarlat on the D47 towards the (chocolate- covered wal-
to February. village of Ste-Nathalène. You’ll nuts) and gâteau de noix
Even if you’re not here pass walnut groves and wooded (walnut cake).
on market day, you can copses lining the roadsides. The
shop for foodie souvenirs Moulin de la Tour is on a back The Drive » Backtrack to
the junction in Ste-Nathalène,
at Sarlat’s covered market road north of the village, signed turn left and follow road signs
to Proissans, Salignac and
(h8.30am-2pm daily mid-Apr– St-Crépin-et-Carlucet; you’ll see to St-Vincent-Le-Paluel/D704.
mid-Nov, closed Mon, Thu & the sign after another 1.5km. Continue along this minor road
Sun rest of year), housed in until you reach the D704A. Cross
the converted Église Ste- straight over and follow white
Marie (place de la Liberté). 2 Ste-Nathalène signs to Le Bouyssou. It’s a drive
While you’re here, don’t One of the Dordogne’s of 8km or 15 minutes.
miss a trip up the tower most distinctive flavours
in the panoramic lift, is the humble noix (wal- TRIP HIGHLIGHT
overlooking Sarlat’s slate nut). It’s been a prized 3 Carsac-Aillac
rooftops. product of the Dordogne Alongside black truffles, ATLANTIC COAST 34 GOuRMET DORDOGNE
54 p375 for centuries, and is the Dordogne is famous
still used in many local for its foie gras (fattened
recipes – cakes, puddings, goose liver). As you drive
pancakes and breads, around, you’ll see duck
as well as liqueurs and and goose farms dotted
huile de noix (walnut all over the countryside,
oil). At the Moulin de many of which offer
la Tour (%05 53 59 22 08; guided tours and dégus-
www.moulindelatour.com;
/ · Ste-Nathalene; h9.30am-noon tation (tasting).
A89
L’Elevage du Bouys-
& 2-6.30pm Mon, Wed & Fri, sou (%05 53 31 12 31;
2-6.30pm Sat Apr-Sep, Wed & Fri www.elevagedubouyssou.
only rest of year), the region’s com; Le Bouyssou, Carsac-
last working watermill, Aillac; hshop 8am-6pm, tours
# Montignac you can watch walnut oil 6.30pm daily Jul & Aug, Mon-Sat
\
being made and stock rest of year) is a family-
0 ¸ / · up with nutty souvenirs. run farm to the north of
D60
D704
Don’t miss the cerneaux
Saint- Carsac- Aillac. If it’s your
\ #
Geniès
# Marquay LINK
\
YOUR
Sarlat-la- Ste-Nathalène TRIP
l # D47 # # # \
L
Canéda
\ #
2
# # 1 / ·
\
0 ¸ x Heritage Wine { Dordogne’s
D704A
La Roque Country Fortified Villages
Gageac # Carsac- The hallowed vineyards of Most of the region’s best
# #
\ 3
# # 0 ¸ Aillac Bordeaux lie 96km to the bastides (fortified towns)
\ #
4
D703
# \ west of Bergerac along the lie to the south of the
Domme D936. Dordogne River. Head south
#
\
St-Martial- from La Roque Gageac for
F G \ # de-Nabirat 6km to begin in Domme.
36
\ # Gourdon \ #
Saint-
Pompont
371
\ #

kind of thing, owners
Denis and Nathalie Mazet
run tours and demon-
strate la gavage – the con- CHARLIEPHOTOX / GETTY IMAGES ©
troversial force-feeding
process that helps fatten
up the goose livers. You
can also buy homemade
foie gras in the shop.
The Drive » Travel south from
Carsac-Aillac and turn left onto
the D703 for 13km towards La
Roque Gageac. You’ll have lovely
views across the river, and the
banks are lined with medieval
villages dangling over the water.
Stop for photos at the Cingle
de Montfort viewpoint, which
overlooks a picturesque bend
backed by a medieval château.

4 La Roque Gageac
The lovely D703 tracks
ATLANTIC COAST 34 GOuRMET DORDOGNE
the course of the Dor-
dogne River and passes
through a string of lovely
riverside villages, includ-
ing La Roque Gageac.
If you feel like burning The Drive » From La Roque 44; www.truffe-perigord.com;
off some of the calories ac- Gageac, St-Cyprien is 15km tours adult €8-10, child free-€5;
quired on this trip, the vil- further west along the river. It’s htours 10.45am Wed-Sat Jul &
lage is an ideal place to do a gorgeous drive that passes Aug, by reservation rest of year),
it: several companies hire several medieval châteaux expert Édouard Aynaud
out kayaks and canoes for en route. Once you reach St- offers hour-long truffle-
exploring the river, includ- Cyprien, continue north on the hunting trips (11am
ing Canoë Vacances (%05 D49 for another 6.5km, and look Tuesday to Saturday July
out for the easy-to-miss right
53 28 17 07; www.canoe turn to Lussac/Péchalifour. and August) assisted by
vacances.com; Lespinasse; self- his keen-nosed hounds.
guided canoeing per person €14- The best time to visit
22) and Canoë Dordogne TRIP HIGHLIGHT is during truffle season
(%05 53 29 58 50; www. 5 St-Cyprien from December to March,
canoesdordogne.fr; self-guided In the village of St- when he runs half-/
canoeing per person €7-24). Or Cyprien you can indulge full-day trips around the
cruise on a flat-bottomed in another of the Dor- truffières (truffle-growing
gabarre with Gabarres dogne’s great gastronomic areas) that include a
Norbert (%05 53 29 40 44; gems – the perle noire chance to try the rarefied
www.gabarres.com; 1hr trip of the Périgord, other- fungi over a picnic lunch.
adult/child €9/7; hApr-Oct). wise known as the black If you have time, stop
5 p375 truffle. At Truffière de at the nearby Domaine
Péchalifour (%05 53 29 20 de la Voile Blanche (%05

372

Dordogne Dog hunting for truffles

53 29 20 36; www.domaine- h10am-7pm Jul & Aug, 1-5pm a farm shop where you can
voie-blanche.com; St-Cyprien; Sep-Jun), where you can buy boar-themed goodies.
h1-7pm Jul & Aug, by reserva- see wild boars being The Drive » From Mortemart,
tion rest of year), where the raised in semi-freedom the nicest drive to Bergerac
Dalbavie family run tours on a farm just outside follows the D45 and D21, a
around their vineyard. Mortemart. These porky drive of 53km through classic
cousins of the modern Dordogne countryside. Once you
The Drive » From Lussac, pig were once common reach town, leave your car in the
backtrack to the D35 and turn car park on quai Salvette, and
northwest towards the bustling across France, but their walk towards the centre along
town of Le Bugue, following signs numbers have been re- rue des Récollets.
to Périgueux onto the D710. From duced by habitat restric-
Le Bugue it’s about 13km to tion and hunting.
Mortemart; there’s a sign to the The boars are fed a rich TRIP HIGHLIGHT
boar farm just before the village. diet of châtaignes (chest- 7 Bergerac
nuts), which gives the
meat a distinctive nutty, It’s not as famous as Bor-
6 Mortemart gamey flavour. It’s a key deaux and St-Émilion, but
Next up is Les Sangliers ingredient in the hearty Bergerac is still an essen-
de Mortemart (%05 53 03 stew known as civet de tial stop for wine- lovers.
21 30; www.elevage-sangliers- sanglier, as well as pâtés Vineyards carpet the
mortemart.com; St-Felix-de- and country terrines. countryside around town,
Reilhac; adult/child €3/1.50; Naturally enough, there’s producing rich reds,


373

The Drive » South of
TRUFFLE SECRETS Bergerac, you’ll really start to
get out into wine country, with
Few ingredients command the same culinary cachet vineyards and châteaux lining
as the truffe noire (black truffle), variously known as the roadsides. Monbazillac is
the diamant noir (black diamond) or, hereabouts, the 8km south of Bergerac on the
D13. Take the D936E around the
perle noire du Périgord (black pearl of the Périgord). southern edge of Bergerac, and
The gem references aren’t just for show, either: a look out for the left turn onto
high-end truffle crop can fetch as much as €1000 the D13.
per kg at seasonal markets.
A subterranean fungus that grows naturally in
chalky soils (especially around the roots of oak trees), 9 Monbazillac
this mysterious mushroom is notoriously capricious; Driving round among
a good truffle spot one year can be bare the next, the rows of vines south
which has made farming them practically impossible. of Bergerac is a pleasure
The art of truffle-hunting is a closely guarded secret; in itself, especially if
it’s a matter of luck, judgement and experience, with you indulge in a bit of
specially trained dogs (and occasionally pigs) to help dégustation. Château de
in the search. Monbazillac (%05 53 63 65
The height of truffle season is between December 00; www.chateau-monbazillac.
and March, when special truffle markets are held com; château adult/child
around the Dordogne, including in Périgueux and Sarlat.
€7.50/3.75; h10am-noon &
2-5pm Jun-Sep, shorter hours
rest of year, closed Dec & Jan)
ATLANTIC COAST 34 GOuRMET DORDOGNE
fragrant whites and fruity The Drive » Creysse is 8km
rosés – but with 13 AOCs east of Bergerac along the D660. is often crowded because
(Appéllations d’Origines of its grand 16th-century
Contrôlées), and more château (best seen from
than 1200 wine-growers, 8 Creysse outside). This vineyard
the choice is bewildering. Many Bergerac vineyards specialises in sweet white
Thankfully, the town’s are open to the public, Monbazillac AOC, as
Maison des Vins (%05 53 including the prestigious does nearby family-run
63 57 55; www.vins-bergerac.fr; Château de Tiregand Château Montdoyen
Cloître des Récollets; h10am- (%05 53 23 21 08; www. (%05 53 58 85 85; www.
12.30pm & 2-7pm Tue-Sat, daily chateau-de-tiregand.com; tours chateau-montdoyen.com;
Jul & Aug, closed Jan) knows adult/child €3/2; h10am- Le Puch; h9.30am-1pm &
all the best vintages, of- 6.30pm Jul & Aug, shorter hours 2-7pm). Montdoyen also
fers wine-tasting courses rest of year), which is main- makes excellent Bergerac
and organises vineyard ly known for its Péchar- AOC reds, whites with
visits. You could spend mant wines; it runs tours intriguing names like
at least another couple and tasting sessions in its Divine Miséricorde
of days touring the cellars. English tours run (sauvignon blanc and
local vineyards, using at 2.30pm from June to sauvignon gris), and a
Bergerac as a base. August. delicious rosé.
54 p375








374

Eating & Sleeping


mix of period plushness – some also have
Sarlat-la-Canéda 1 terraces overlooking the town’s rooftops.
5 Le Petit Manoir Regional Cuisine €€
(%05 53 29 82 14; 13 rue de la République; mains La Roque Gageac 4
€20; h12.40-2pm & 7-9pm Tue-Sun; Wv)
Book ahead for a seat in the ornate 15th-century 5 La Belle Étoile
mansion where the cuisine combines creative Restaurant Traditional French €€
Dordogne specialities with a touch of Asian (www.belleetoile.fr; menus from €32; hnoon-
fusion. The Vietnamese chef creates a menu 1.30pm Tue & Thu-Sun, 7.30-9.30pm Tue-Sun)
that changes with the seasons, and there are This restaurant in a riverside hotel has the best
always vegetarian options (menu €27). position in La Roque, lodged in a solid stone
building with river vistas. It is renowned for its
5 Le Grand Bleu Gastronomy €€€ sophisticated French food, and opens onto a
(%05 53 31 08 48; www.legrandbleu.eu; 43 av vine-shaded terrace with a fabulous view. ATLANTIC COAST 34 GOuRMET DORDOGNE
de la Gare; menus lunch €36, dinner €54-125;
h12.30-2pm Thu-Sun, 7.30-9.30pm Tue-Sat)
This eminent Michelin-starred restaurant run by Bergerac 7
chef Maxime Lebrun is renowned for its creative
cuisine with elaborate menus making maximum 5 Villa Laetitia Regional Cuisine €€
use of luxury produce: truffles, lobster, turbot (%05 53 61 00 12; [email protected];
and scallops, with a wine list to match. Cooking 21 rue de l’Ancien Port; menus lunch €17-22,
courses (€40) are also available. Located 1.5km dinner €25-38; hnoon-2pm Tue-Sun, 7-9pm
south of the centre. Tue-Sat) Book ahead for a seat with in-the-know
4 La Maison des Peyrat Hotel €€ locals in the soft, cream-stone dining room
where charming waitstaff serve delicious local
(%05 53 59 00 32; www.maisondespeyrat.com; cuisine, made in the open kitchen at the rear.
Le Lac de la Plane; r €70-112) This beautifully Expect farm-fresh ingredients and delicious
renovated 17th-century house, formerly a nuns’ Périgord classics exquisitely presented.
hospital and later an aristocratic hunting lodge,
is set on a hill about 1.5km from Sarlat centre. 4 Château
Eleven generously sized rooms are decorated les Merles Boutique Hotel €€€
in modern farmhouse style; the best have views (%05 53 63 13 42; www.lesmerles.com;
over gardens and the countryside beyond. Good Tuilières, Mouleydier; d €190-210, ste €250,
restaurant, too. apt €350; iWs) Behind its 19th-century
4 Villa des Consuls B&B €€ neoclassical facade, this château 15km east
(%05 53 31 90 05; www.villaconsuls.fr; 3 rue of Bergerac is a study in modish minimalism.
Monochrome colour schemes including black-
Jean-Jacques Rousseau; d €95-110, apt €150- and-white sofas and artfully chosen antiques
190; iW) Despite its Renaissance exterior, run throughout the rooms, most of which would
the enormous rooms here are modern through look more at home in Paris than deep in the
and through, with shiny wood floors and sleek Dordogne. From the nine-hole golf course to
furnishings. Several delightful self-contained the ravishing fusion restaurant (lunch/dinner
apartments dot the town, all offering the same
menus from €20/30), it’s a royal retreat.







375

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
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Location Caption details to go here

#
ANDS456 / GETTY IMAGES ©
Cave Art of the


Vézère Valley 35





The limestone caves of southwest France contain some of Europe’s
finest examples of prehistoric art. This tailored trip explores the
most famous ones, including the frescos of the Grotte de Lascaux.

TRIP HIGHLIGHTS
3 DAYS
50 km 55KM / 34 MILES
Le Thot
Get up close to some
of the wildlife depicted GREAT FOR…
by prehistoric painters
B
Rouffignac-
Saint-Cermin- ## mK
de-Reihac BEST TIME TO GO
# 7
# #
# # # #
6
# April to June, when
Plazac most caves are open,
55 km but the summer
crowds haven’t
Grotte de Lascaux
Marvel at the modern-day arrived.
replica of France's finest
ancient artwork ESSENTIAL
l L ## # I PHOTO
#
## #
# 1
2
The minimalist façade
of the Musée National
de Préhistoire.
Grotte de Font de
Les-Eyzies-de-Tayac Gaume BEST FOR
Explore a treasure A multicoloured menagerie K FAMILIES
trove of prehistoric of animals adorns this
artefacts impressive cave The prehistoric zoo at
0 km 2 km Le Thot, to see bison,
reindeer and ibex.
V Location Caption details to go hereézère Valley Limestone caves dot the valley’s cliffs 377

TRIP HIGHLIGHT
Cave Art of the
35 Vézère Valley 1 Les-Eyzies-de-
Tayac
This small one-street
tourist town is right in
the middle of the Vézère
This trip feels like opening a time capsule Valley, 20km northwest
into the prehistoric past. Hidden deep of Sarlat-la-Canéda. Most
of the area’s major caves
underground in the murky caves of the Vézère are within half-an-hour’s
and Lot Valleys, a spectacular legacy of ancient drive, so it makes a use-
ful base for exploring,
artworks, ranging from rock sculptures to and for a quick primer
multicoloured murals, was left behind by Cro- on prehistoric art there’s
Magnon people – and this is one of the few nowhere better than
the Musée National de
places in the world where it’s possible to see Préhistoire (%05 53 06 45
their work up close. 65; www.musee-prehistoire-




/ · Rouffignac-
D6
# \ Montignac
St-Cermin- # \ #m K
de-Reihac / · 0 ¸ # 7
D706
D6
# \ Le Thot
6
#
Plazac # Grotte de
# \ Lascaux
/ ·
D45
/ · Grotte de 0 ¸
D704
D32
# Rouffignac # \ St-Léon-
#
5
sur-Vézère
/ · DORDOGNE # \ Le Moustier # \ St-Geniès
D47
Savognac- # \
de-Miremont # \ Tursac / ·
D60
# \
Manaurie Grotte des
Combarelles
#
3
Les-Eyzies- # # Abri du # \ Marquay
#
4
# \ l L
de-Tayac# # Cap Blanc
#
# 1
2
D6
St-Cirq Grotte / ·
#
# \ de Font H
Le Burgue
de Gaume p379 / · Ste-Nathalène
D47
# \
# \ Meyrais Alias # \
/ · Sarlat-
Vézère
D35
la-Canéda # \
St-Cyprien # \
Mouzens Dordogne Beynac-et-
/ · # \ Cazenac
D25
# \ Mamac # \ Dordogne
F G Vitrac # \ Carsac- # \
34
0 ¸ Aillac
D710
# e 0 0 5 miles 10 km 90km to F G ‚ # \ Domme
37

eyzies.fr; 1 rue du Musée;
adult/child €6/4.50, 1st Sun of DETOUR:
month free; h9.30am-6.30pm GROTTE DE PECH
daily Jul & Aug, 9.30am-6pm MERLE
Wed-Mon Jun & Sep, 9.30am-
12.30pm & 2-5.30pm Wed-Mon Start: 1 Les-Eyzies-de-Tayac
Oct-May), home to France’s To complete your cave tour, it’s worth taking the
most comprehensive longish 92km trip southeast to the Grotte de Pech
collection of prehistoric Merle (%05 65 31 27 05; www.pechmerle.com; adult/child
artefacts. Inside you’ll €11/7; h9.30-noon & 1.30-5pm Apr-Oct, greatly reduced rest
find lots of fascinating of year), one of only a handful of decorated caves to be
Stone Age tools, weapons discovered around the Lot Valley. It contains galleries
and jewellery, as well as of mammoths, goats and bison, as well as a famous
animal skeletons and panel featuring two dappled horses. Most haunting
original rock friezes of all, the cave’s walls are covered with human hand
taken from the caves tracings, as well as a set of footprints, left behind by an
themselves: look out for adolescent artist between 15,000 BC and 10,000 BC.
the famous one of a bison Guided tours are in French, but explanatory sheets
licking its flank. Panels in English are available. Reserve ahead, as visitor ATLANTIC COAST 35 CAVE ART OF THE VézèRE VALLEY
are mostly in French, but numbers are limited to 700 per day.
explanatory sheets in
English are available.
‘Chapelle des Bisons’
54 p383 TRIP HIGHLIGHT (Bison Chapel). Reserva-
The Drive » To get to Font de 2 Grotte de Font de tions are essential, with
Gaume from Les-Eyzies, follow Gaume only 78 people allowed
the D47 east towards Sarlat, in per day. The 8-person
and look out for the brown signs Now you’ve got the back- 45-minute tours are
pointing to Font de Gaume. ground, it’s time to see usually in French, but
some real cave art. Just English tours are offered
1km northeast of Les- in summer.
Eyzies is Font de Gaume
LINK (%05 53 06 86 00; www. The Drive » Continue along
YOUR eyzies.monuments-nationaux. the D47 for 1km from Font
TRIP fr; 4 av des Grottes; adult/ de Gaume and turn off at the
child €7.50/free; hguided brown sign for the Grotte de
Combarelles.
y Gourmet tours 9.30am-5.30pm
Dordogne
It’s easy to combine this Sun-Fri mid-May–mid-Sep, 3 Grotte des
9.30am-12.30pm & 2-5.30pm
trip with our gourmet Sun-Fri mid-Sep–mid-May),
guide to the Dordogne – an underground cavern Combarelles
take the D47 to Sarlat-la- that contains the only Prehistoric artists weren’t
Canéda. multicoloured paintings just skilful painters – they
also knew how to sculpt.
| The Lot Valley still open to the public. About 1.5km further
Around 14,000 years ago,
From Cabrerets, the prehistoric artists east of Font de Gaume,
you’ll be roughly halfway created a gallery of more this narrow cave (%05
along our Lot Valley than 230 animals, includ- 53 06 86 00; www.eyzies.
route, 3km west of St- ing reindeer, horses, monuments-nationaux.fr; adult/
Cirq-Lapopie and 32km mammoths and bears, child €7.50/free; hguided
east of Cahors. tours 9.30am-5.30pm Sun-Fri
as well as a dramatic

379

mid-May–mid-Sep, 9.30am- into the rear wall of the
12.30pm & 2-5.30pm Sun-Fri overhang using flint
mid-Sep–mid-May) contains tools. Originally the cave
many engravings that would have been open to DOZIER MARC / GETTY IMAGES ©
cleverly use the natural the elements, but it’s now
contours of the rock to housed inside a modern
sculpt the animals’ forms: museum.
look out for mammoths, The Drive » Backtrack to
horses, reindeer and a Les-Eyzies, then follow the D47
mountain lion that seems northwest along the valley,
to leap out from the rock turning right onto the D32 after
face. The cave’s walls are about 11km. The road becomes
also covered with geomet- narrower and travels through
ric symbols and shapes woodland. Follow the signs to
that have so far eluded the ‘Grotte Préhistorique de
interpretation. Six- to Rouffignac’ for another 7km.
eight-person group tours
last about an hour and 5 Grotte de
can be reserved through
the Font de Gaume ticket Rouffignac
office. After staying overnight
in Les-Eyzies, get an early
The Drive » Travel 1km
further east of Combarelles, start at the astonishing
then turn left onto the twisty Grotte de Rouffignac
D48. You’ll travel into a pleasant (%05 53 05 41 71; www.grotte
wooded valley. Continue for derouffignac.fr; Rouffignac-St-
7km, following the road up the Cernin-de-Reilhac; adult/child
hillside towards the Cap Blanc €7.50/4.80; h9-11.30am &
ATLANTIC COAST 35 CAVE ART OF THE VézèRE VALLEY
car park. The museum entrance 2-6pm Jul & Aug, 10-11.30am &
is a short walk downhill along a
rough track. 2-5pm Apr-Jun, Sep & Oct, closed
Nov-Mar), often known
as the ‘Cave of 1000
4 Abri du Cap Blanc Mammoths’ thanks to its
This ancient sculpture plethora of painted pachy-
derms. The paintings are
gallery (%05 53 06 86 00; spread along the walls
www.eyzies.monuments-natio of a subterranean cavern
naux.fr; adult/child €7.50/free; that stretches for 10km –
hguided tours 10am-6pm fortunately, you visit
Sun-Fri mid-May–mid-Sep, aboard a rickety electric
10am-12.30pm & 2-5.30pm train, so there’s no chance
Sun-Fri mid-Sep–mid-May) of getting lost. Along
makes a fascinating the way is an amazing
comparison with Com- frieze of 10 mammoths
barelles. It was used as in procession. You’ll also
a natural shelter 14,000 see many hollows in the
years ago by Cro-Magnon cave floor, scratched out
people, who left behind by long-extinct cave bears.
an amazing 40m-long Tickets are sold at the
frieze of horses and cave entrance; wrap up
bison, carved directly


380

Grotte de Lascaux France’s most famous prehistoric paintings

381

PREHISTORY 101

If you’re visiting the cave paintings around the Vézère, it helps to know a little about
the artists who created them. Most of the paintings date from the end of the last ice
age, between 20,000 BC and 10,000 BC, and were painted by Cro-Magnon people –
descendants of the first Homo erectus settlers who arrived from North Africa
between 700,000 BC and 100,000 BC.
Cro-Magnon people lived a hunter-gatherer lifestyle, using the mouths of caves
as temporary hunting shelters (not the deep interiors, where you often find the art)
while they followed their prey, including mammoths, woolly rhinoceros, reindeer and
aurochs, an ancestor of the modern cow.
Generally, they painted geometric forms, the occasional stylised human form,
and the animals they hunted using mineral paints derived from magnesium and
charcoal (black), ochre (red/yellow) and iron (red). Although no one is certain what
the purpose of the paintings was, it’s assumed they held some kind of magical,
religious or shamanic significance.
Painting seems to have ceased around 10,000 BC, about the same time that
humans settled down to a more fixed lifestyle of farming and agriculture.


warm, as it’s chilly below European bison. Sadly, Aug, 9.30am-6pm Apr-Jun, Sep
ground. though, you’ll have to put & Oct, 10am-12.30pm & 2-5pm
up with fibreglass models Nov-Mar, closed Jan) is home
The Drive » From the Grotte of extinct species such as
de Rouffignac, retrace your route to France’s most famous –
to the D32, and follow signs to woolly mammoths. and finest – prehistoric
Montignac, making turns onto The Drive » Turn back paintings.
the D6 and D45. Northeast of onto the D706 and head The 600-strong
ATLANTIC COAST 35 CAVE ART OF THE VézèRE VALLEY
Thonac, turn left onto the D706 towards Montignac, about menagerie is vividly
and look out for the sign to Le 7km northeast, where there depicted in shades of red,
Thot shortly afterwards. are dining and accomodation black, yellow and brown,
options (see p383). Once you ranging from reindeer,
reach town, cross the bridge and
TRIP HIGHLIGHT follow av du 4 Septembre, then aurochs, mammoths and
6 Le Thot look out for brown signs to the horses to a huge 5.5m-
long bull, the largest cave
It’s well worth visiting Grotte de Lascaux, perched on a drawing ever found.
Le Thot (%05 53 50 70 44; hilltop 1km south of town. The original cave has
www.semitour.com; Thonac; been closed to the public
adult/child €9/5.90, joint ticket TRIP HIGHLIGHT since 1963, but a pains-
with Lascaux II €14.50/9.80; 7 Grotte de Lascaux takingly precise replica
h10am-7pm Jul & Aug, to 6pm Sometimes known as the has been created nearby.
Apr-Jun, Sep & Oct, shorter There are several guided
hours rest of year), where Sistine Chapel of cave art, tours every hour, includ-
you can see some of the the Grotte de Lascaux ing some in English.
real-life beasts depicted (%05 53 51 95 03; www.semi From April to September,
by prehistoric artists – tour.com; Montignac; adult/ tickets are sold only at
including reindeer, child €9.90/6.40, combined the ticket office next to
stags, horses, ibex and ticket with Le Thot €13.50/9.40; Montignac’s tourist office.
hguided tours 9am-7pm Jul &




382

Eating & Sleeping


add quirky appeal. Dining is good value in the
Les-Eyzies-de-Tayac 1 lovely beam-ceilinged restaurant.
5 Moulin de la
Beaune Regional Cuisine €€ Montignac 6
(Au Vieux Moulin; %05 53 06 94 33; www. 5 La Chaumière Regional Cuisine €
moulindelabeune.com; menus €21-58; hmid-
Apr–Oct) Reserve ahead for a spot at one of (%05 53 50 14 24; 53 rue du 4 Septembre;
the river-front terrace tables at this renovated menu €18.90; hnoon-2pm Sun-Tue & Thu-Fri,
water mill converted into a lovely restaurant and 7.30-9.30pm Wed-Mon) A simple menu of
hotel (doubles €70 to €80). The most charming charcuterie, cut by the friendly proprietor at the
family-run establishment in Les-Eyzies, it’s also back of the small dining room, or large portions
the most beautifully situated, and serves up of duck confit, cassoulet and duck-fat roasted
authentic, seasonal local fare. potatoes are the order of the day.
4 Hôtel des Glycines Hotel €€ 5 Le Tourny Cafe €
(%05 53 06 97 07; www.les-glycines-dordogne. (%05 53 51 59 95; place Tourny; lunch/dinner ATLANTIC COAST 35 CAVE ART OF THE VézèRE VALLEY
com; 4 av de Laugerie; d €144-199, ste €270-345; menus €13.50/17; hnoon-2pm daily, 7-9.30pm
hJan–mid-Nov; aWs) Les-Eyzies’ top posh Mon-Sat) Locals flock here for cheap, no-frills
pad: plush rooms range from cream-and-check daily specials and omelettes or snacks.
‘classics’ to full-blown suites with terraces and 4 Hotel Le Lascaux Hotel €
garden views. Beware ‘courtyard rooms’ which
overlook the main road. The hotel’s gastronomic (%05 53 51 82 81; http://hotel-lascaux.jimdo.
restaurant (lunch menus €19, dinner menus com; 109 av Jean-Jaurès; d €73-95; hApr-Sep;
€62 to €110) is a pampering affair. W) Despite the old-timey candy-stripe awnings,
rooms at this family-owned hotel are bang up
4 Hôtel des Roches Hotel € to date, with cool colour schemes, distressed
(%05 53 06 96 59; www.roches-les-eyzies.com; wood furniture and sparkling bathrooms.
15 av de la Forge; d/tr €90/140; hmid-Apr–mid- Superior rooms have more space, and some
Oct; Ws) This smart pale stone hotel set overlook the shady back garden.
back from the main road is decorated in simple 4 Hostellerie La Roseraie Hotel €€
pastoral style. Rear rooms overlook the garden
and swimming pool. (%05 53 50 53 92; www.laroseraie-hotel.com;
11 place des Armes; d €80-164, ste/q from
4 Hôtel Le Cro-Magnon Hotel € €200/220; hApr-Oct; Ws) This mansion
(%05 53 06 97 06; www.hostellerie-cro- in Montignac boasts its own gorgeous rose
magnon.com; 54 av de la Préhistoire; d €85-100; garden, set around a palm-fringed pool. Rococo
hMar-Nov; Ws) This pretty wisteria-clad rooms are lovely if you like rosy pinks, floral
hotel has been around since the 1850s and patterns and garden views. Truffles, chestnuts,
was often used as a base by pioneering pork and guinea fowl find their way onto the
prehistorians. Flowery rooms are a touch bland, seasonal menu in the restaurant, and on warm
but corridors built straight into the rock face summer nights the terrace is a delight.











383

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8391















































Location Caption details to go here

Dordogne’s
MEDIOIMAGES/PHOTODISC / GETTY IMAGES ©
Fortified Villages 36





The Dordogne spoils for choice with its hilltop history. This trip
links some of the region’s distinctive bastides (fortified villages)
and medieval castles, and takes in holy Rocamadour.

TRIP HIGHLIGHTS
5 DAYS
130 km 270 km
270KM / 168 MILES
Rocamadour Najac
Follow in the footsteps Stand on the
of countless pilgrims battlements of a GREAT FOR…
at this holy town storybook castle
B

BEST TIME TO GO
April to July, to make
# # the most of the spring
#
# # #
4
5
# #
# weather.
Gourdon
# Figeac I ESSENTIAL
PHOTO
l L Looking out across the
# Monflanquin
Dordogne valley from
Domme’s spectacular
belvédère.
#
# # #
8
HISTORY
Domme m K K BEST FOR
Drink in the views from Najac’s hilltop castle
a classic hilltop village is a classic example
76 km of medieval military
architecture.
R Location Caption details to go hereocamadour Stone paths lead up to the 14th-century château 385

Dordogne’s 1 Monflanquin

36 Fortified Founded in 1256, this
small bastide makes an
Villages
excellent place to start
your tour of France’s
defensive architecture.
The Dordogne may be a picture of tranquillity It has the classic bastide
structure: a rectangular
now, but during the Middle Ages it was layout, a grid of straight
frequently a battleground. The Dordogne River streets, and an arcaded
marked an important strategic frontier between market square, with a
church tucked into one
English and French forces during the Hundred corner. Originally the
Years War, and the area’s many châteaux and town would have also
been ringed by ramparts,
fortified villages remain as a reminder of this but these have long since
war-torn past. Most distinctive of all are the been plundered. The cen-
tral place des Arcades still
bastide towns, encircled by defensive walls and hosts its weekly market
protected by sturdy ramparts.


/ · / · Vézère 0 ¸ Vayrac # \ Beaulieu-
# \
D47
D710
DORDOGNE # \ D840 # sur-Dordogne
# \ Martel
6
D803
Le Bugue # \ Les- Sarlat-la- Souillac / · # # \ Carennac
Eyzies
Canéda
# \ Beynac-et- 0¸
F G # \ D704A # \ Gouffre de
34
# \ Lalinde Dordogne Cazenac / · Dordogne 0 ¸ Padirac
/ ·
D840
D25
# \
N20
# \
#
/ · H # # 0 ¸
4
# \ Domme
#
D25
D940
# \ #
5
# \ Belvès p390 St-Martial- Rocamadour # \ Gramat
0 ¸ 0 ¸ # \ de-Nabirat # \ 0 ¸ 0 ¸ 0 ¸
D673
D677
D660
D840
D60
Monpazier Gourdon
# \ # 0¸
# D660 0 ¸
2
Villeréal 0 ¸ D802
# \ # D673 / ·
# \ #
3
0 ¸ Villefranche- 0¸ D25 LOT Figeac # \
D660
D272
du-Périgord 0 ¸ Célé
D653
l L # \ Bonaguil Puy- / · Parc Naturel Régional F G
A20
#
# \ Monflanquin
# 1
l'Évêque
Causses de Quercy
37
Fumel
# \ # \ # \ Castelfranc Cabrerets # \ Cajarc 0 ¸
/ ·
0 ¸ Lot D8 # \ St-Cirq # \ Lot D922
# \
D911
0 ¸ Cahors 0 ¸ Lapopie
D656
D911
LOT-ET- 0 ¸ / · Villefranche-
N20
D653
GARONNE / · du-Rouergue#
# \ # 7
D19
Aveyron
TARN-ET-GARONNE
m K
# \ #
Najac #
8
Caussade
# e 0 0 15 miles 30 km # \

on Thursday morning, The town itself was woodland. Start on the minor
just as it has done since founded in 1284 by a D57 towards Besse, turning onto
the Middle Ages. representative of Edward the D60 at St-Pompont, followed
I (king of England and by the D46 to Domme – it’s just
The Drive » The quickest over 33km in all, or 40 minutes.
route to Monpazier heads duke of Aquitaine). It had Parking is tricky in the village, so
22km northwest across quiet a turbulent time during leave your car outside the walls
farmland, following the minor the Wars of Religion and and walk up.
D272. You’ll pass into woodland the Peasant Revolts of
near Vergt-de-Biron, and then the 16th century, but de-
turn right onto the D2 towards spite numerous assaults TRIP HIGHLIGHT
Monpazier. it survived the centuries 4 Domme
remarkably unscathed. For panoramic views,
Most unusually of all, its there’s nowhere in the
2 Monpazier defensive walls are still Dordogne that can top
Monpazier is perhaps the largely intact. Domme. Teetering on
best example of bastide an outcrop high above
architecture in southwest The Drive » Take the D660 the river valley, this
France. It’s crisscrossed east from Monpazier, and hilltop bastide still boasts
follow it for 21km through the
by arrow-straight streets, countryside. most of its 13th-century ATLANTIC COAST 36 DORDOGNE’S FORTIFIED VILLAGES
all of which lead to the ramparts as well as
market square on place three original fortified
Centrale, lined by arcaded 3 Villefranche-du- gateways.
walkways and tall houses Périgord Approached via a tortu-
built from lemon-yellow ous switchback road from
stone. In one corner, The amber town of Ville- the valley below, it’s the
there’s an old lavoir (wash franche-du-Périgord once perfect defensive strong-
house) that was still being occupied an important hold – a fact not lost on
used for washing clothes strategic position on the Philippe III of France,
right up to the end of the frontier between the his- who founded the town in
19th century. toric regions of Agen and 1281 as a bastion against
Quercy. It was founded
in 1261 by Alphonse de the English. The town’s
Poitiers, a brother of the clifftop position is best
French king Louis IX, appreciated from the es-
LINK and still possesses most planade du Belvédère and
YOUR of its medieval layout, the adjacent promenade
TRIP including the original de la Barre, which both
offer an unforgettable
y Gourmet arcaded square, pillared outlook across the valley.
marketplace and fortified
Dordogne
Head north from Domme church, all of which date 54 p391
from the 13th century. It’s
for 14km along the a bit off the beaten track The Drive » The most
D46 to link up with our and a touch neglected in pleasant route to Rocamadour
gastronomic road trip spots, which means its travels southeast via the D46
around the Dordogne. often much quieter than and the towns of St-Martial-
de-Nabirat and Gourdon. From
| The Lot Valley some of the area’s better- here, pick up the twisty D673,
which crosses underneath the
known bastides.
This trip combines A20 motorway. Soon afterwards
well with our route along The Drive » The drive to there’s a wonderful windy
the Lot Valley – just turn Domme is particularly pleasant, section with fine views across
off at Figeac. veering across hilltops and the Ouysse River and the cliffs
passing through oak and beech around Rocamadour. Most of
387

Rocamadour’s car parks are The Drive » From the town’s
above the old city in L’Hospitalet. main car parks in L’Hospitalet,
All in, the journey covers 54km. head north along the D673 and
follow the signs to Martel, 22km GUY CHRISTIAN / GETTY IMAGES ©
away.
TRIP HIGHLIGHT
5 Rocamadour
Clinging precariously to 6 Martel
a rocky cliffside, the holy Known as la ville aux
town of Rocamadour sept tours (the town of
looks like something seven towers) thanks to
out of Lord of the Rings. its turret-topped skyline,
It’s been an important this delightful village was
pilgrimage destination the ancient capital of the
since the Middle Ages Vicomte de Turenne. It’s
thanks to the supposedly crammed with fascinat-
miraculous powers of ing architecture, best
its Vierge Noire (Black seen around the place
Madonna), which is now de la Halle. The covered
housed in the Chapelle de market still boasts many
Notre Dame, one of sev- of its medieval roof
eral chapels that make up beams, and one of the
the town’s Sanctuaires town’s namesake towers
(Sanctuaries). can be seen above the
The old town itself Palais de la Raymondi
(known as La Cité) (built for a 13th-century
consists of one long tax collector but now
medieval thoroughfare, home to the village’s tour-
ATLANTIC COAST 36 DORDOGNE’S FORTIFIED VILLAGES
overflowing (just as in ist office). You’ll spot the
the pilgrims’ day) with other towers as you wan-
souvenir shops and tour- der round town, including
isty restaurants. One of La Tour Tournemire, a
the medieval gateways is square tower which once
still standing at the end served as a prison, and
of the Grande Rue. the Cordeliers Tower,
From here, a stone the only remains of a
staircase leads to the 13th-century Franciscan
Sanctuaries, and a Sta- monastery. Try to time
tions of the Cross path your visit with the lively
switchbacks up the markets on Wednesday
cliff emerging next to and Saturday.
Rocamadour’s 14th-
century château (€2; 54 p391
h8am-8pm). During the The Drive » Spend the night
Middle Ages, pilgrims in Martel, then pick up the D840
would have climbed the all the way to Figeac, a historic
steps on their knees as a riverside town that makes a
demonstration of piety, good spot to stop for coffee and
but these days you can cake. From here, continue south
cheat by catching a lift on the D922 to Villefranche de
Rouergue. Plan on covering the
and then a cable car. 95km in 1¾ hours.
388

Martel The covered market

389

DETOUR:
CHÂTEAU DE BEYNAC
Start: 4 Domme
The riverbanks of the Dordogne are lined with medieval châteaux, mostly built as
defensive fortresses during the 12th and 13th centuries. One of the most dramatic
is the Château de Beynac (%05 53 29 50 40; www.beynac-en-perigord.com; Beynac-et-
Cazenac; adult/child €8/3.50; h10am-6.30pm May-Aug, to 5pm Jan-Apr, Sep & Oct, closed Nov
& Dec), a clifftop castle 10km northwest of La Roque, protected by 200m cliffs, a
double wall and double moat. From the battlements, there’s a dizzying view over
the picture-perfect village of Beynac-et-Cazenac, which featured in the Lasse
Hallström movie Chocolat (2000), starring Johnny Depp and Juliette Binoche.
There are several other châteaux to explore nearby. Situated 4.5km southwest is
the Château de Castelnaud (www.castelnaud.com/uk; Castelnaud-la-Chapelle; adult/child
€9.60/4.80; h9am-8pm Jul & Aug, 10am-5pm Feb-Jun & Sep–mid-Nov, 2-5pm mid-Nov–Jan),
another quintessential castle that houses a museum of medieval warfare.
Another 4km further is the Château de Milandes (%05 53 59 31 21; www.milandes.
com; Castelnaud-la-Chapelle; adult/child €10/6.50; h9.30am-7.30pm Jul & Aug, 10am-6.30pm
Apr-Jun & Sep–mid-Nov), which was famously owned by the glamorous American
music-hall star Josephine Baker (1906–75), who bought it in 1936.


with a menagerie of comi- surrounded on every side
7 Villefranche de cal and cheeky figures. by dizzying falaises (cliffs)
Rouergue The Drive » The D922 dropping to the Aveyron
River far below.
ATLANTIC COAST 36 DORDOGNE’S FORTIFIED VILLAGES
Villefranche’s origins continues south toward Najac, The castle is reached
as a bastide are barely 23km south of Villefranche. via a steep 1.2km-long
recognisable beneath the cobbled street from place
modern roads and busy TRIP HIGHLIGHT du Faubourg, the village’s
shopping streets – it’s 8 Najac central square. It’s a mas-
only once you get right If you were searching for terpiece of military plan-
into the old town that ning: its clifftop position
they become apparent. At a film set for Camelot, meant it was practi-
the centre is the arcaded you’ve found it. Najac’s cally unassailable, and it
place Notre Dame – an- soaring hilltop castle became a key stronghold
other typical example of a (%05 65 29 71 65; adult/child during the Middle Ages.
bastide square. Nearby is €5.50/4; h10.30am-7pm Jul & Its architecture is beauti-
the square-pillared 15th- Aug, 10.30am-1pm & 3-5.30pm fully preserved, and the
century Collégiale Notre Mar-Jun, Sep & Oct) looks as if view from the central
Dame, with its never- it’s fallen from the pages keep is simply superb.
completed bell tower and of a fairy tale: slender
towers and fluttering flags
choir stalls, ornamented 4 p391
rise from the battlements,







390

Eating & Sleeping




Domme 1 Martel 6
5 Le Petit Paris Regional Cuisine €€ 5 Au Hasard
(%05 53 28 41 10; www.le-petit-paris.fr; Daglan; Balthazar Regional Cuisine €€
menus €29-39; hnoon-1.30pm Tue-Sun & (%05 65 37 42 01; www.auhasardbalthazar.
7-8.45pm Tue-Sat late-Feb–mid-Nov) Friendly fr; rue Tournemire; lunch/dinner menus from
staff serve you on little Daglan’s central square, €19/28; hnoon-1.30pm Tue-Sun & 7.30-
promoting an elegant ‘there’s all the time in 9.30pm Tue-Sat May-Aug, shorter hours Apr &
the world’ feel, while wowing with impeccable Sep) Local farm Les Bouriettes operates this
seasonal local cuisine. Spring brings lovely wonderful shop and restaurant filled with their
asparagus, the rest of the year find tender super products. Friendly proprietors serve
Limousin beef, falling off the bone, or foie gras regional specialities in the courtyard below
that melts in your mouth. It’s 11km south of the Tour Tournemire, or in the intimate stone
Domme. dining room. Imagine ingredients like walnut oil,
pigeon confit, foie gras and wine mustard.
4 La Guérinière B&B €€ ATLANTIC COAST 36 DORDOGNE’S FORTIFIED VILLAGES
(%05 53 29 91 97; www.la-gueriniere-dordogne. 4 Manoir de Malagorse B&B €€
com; Cénac et St-Julien; d incl breakfast €105, q (%05 65 27 14 83; www.manoir-de-malagorse.
€175; Ws) Surrounded by 6-hectare grounds fr; Cuzance; d incl breakfast €160-200, ste
in the valley 5km south of Domme along the €290-320; hmid-Mar–mid-Dec; Ws) In quiet
D46, this family-friendly B&B’s rooms are all Cuzance, 8km northwest of Martel, this beauty
named after flowers: our faves are Mimosa, with of a B&B offers luxury normally reserved for top-
its sloping roof and chinoiserie wardrobe, and end hotels. Owners Anna and Abel’s period house
the supersized Bleuet room. Book ahead for is a chic combo of sleek lines, soothing colours
tables d’hôte (set menus; €28 including wine) and fluffy fabrics. It’s surrounded by 10 private
that use mostly organic produce. acres, and the four-course home-cooked dinner
(€42) is superb. Hosts winter truffle weekends.
4 Château de
Maraval Design Hotel €€€
(%06 06 94 37 61; www.chateaudemaraval. Najac 8
fr; Cénac-et-Saint-Julien; d €195; hFeb-Dec;
paWs) Here’s your chance to combine 4 Oustal del Barry Hotel €
historic elegance (a grand château in lush (%05 65 29 74 32; www.oustaldelbarry.com; place
grounds) with contemporary luxury (mod du Faubourg; s €54, d €65-70; aW) The best
rooms kitted out with design tapestries, sleek hotel in town is this wonderfully worn and rustic
furnishings and high-concept bathrooms). This auberge, with haphazard rooms filled with trinkets
friendly escape just south of Domme in Cénac and solid furniture to match its venerable timber-
pampers with high-threadcount linens, spa framed facade. Try for a room with a balcony. Visit
facilities and an idyllic pool. its renowned country restaurant (menus €22 to
€56) for traditional southwest cuisine.











391

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Location Caption details to go here

DANITA DELIMONT / GETTY IMAGES ©


The Lot Valley 37





This scenic drive snakes along a plunging canyon carved out by
the Lot River. It’s bookended by the riverside towns of Figeac and
Villeneuve-sur-Lot, and veers through wine country.

TRIP HIGHLIGHTS
3 DAYS
145 km 0 km 181KM / 113 MILES
Bonaguil Figeac
Play lord of the manor Explore one of the GREAT FOR…
at this quintessential Lot's most historic
GJ
medieval château river ports

BEST TIME TO GO
l L March to June, when
the valley’s at its most
# 1 # # # tranquil.
# Faycelles #
# # #
7
m K Fumel # # # # # I ESSENTIAL
# # #
3
PHOTO
2
#
# Cahors #
Villeneuve- Standing on top of St-
sur-Lot Cirq-Lapopie’s ruined
sky-top château.
49 km
Bouziès K BEST FOR
FAMILIES
Make the most of the
Lot River's lovely St-Cirq-Lapopie Paddling down the Lot
A hilltop town par
scenery on a canoe trip
excellence, with River in a canoe from
wraparound views Bouziès.
46 km
St 393
Location Caption details to go here-Cirq-Lapopie Hilltop village above the Lot River

TRIP HIGHLIGHT
37 The Lot Valley 1 Figeac
Riverside Figeac has a
lived-in charm that is
unlike many of the Lot’s
prettified towns. Traffic
For river scenery, the Lot is right up there buzzes along the river
alongside the Loire and the Seine. Over boulevards and the old
town has an appealing
countless millennia, it’s carved its way through atmosphere, where shady
the area’s soft lemon-yellow limestone, creating streets are lined with
ramshackle medieval
a landscape of canyons, ravines and cliffs, and Renaissance houses,
best seen on the zigzagging 80km-odd section many with open-air gal-
leries on the top floors
between Figeac and Cahors. It’s a journey to (once used for drying
savour: take your time, pack a picnic and soak leather). Founded by Ben-
edictine monks, the town
up the vistas. was later an important
Creysse


# \ Domme
0 ¸ Payrac # \
D704
A20
Belvès # \ / ·
St-Martial-
# \ de-Nabirat
0 ¸ St-Pompont # \ # \ Gourdon
D660
/ · Monpazier / ·
N20
D14
# \
Besse # \
0 ¸ # \ Lacapelle- # \ # \
D25
Villeréal Biron / · # \ Concorès
# \
D272
Biron Villefranche
F G Château du Perigord # \ Uzech
# \
#
36
de Biron 0 ¸ St-Martin- #\
D673
#
H Bonaguil 0 ¸ de-Vers
D660
p398 # \ # St-Martin-
# \ # 7 # \le-Redon
Monflanquin Puy-l'Évêque / ·
A20
#
6
# \
D811
Fumel # \ 0 ¸ # # \ Castelfranc # \ Mercuès
/ · Lot # Luzech Vers # \
N21
# \ #
5
0 ¸ Douelle # \ / ·
D8
D911
# \ #
4
Villeneuve- Cahors # Arcambal
# \
sur-Lot Lot # \
m K 0 ¸ F G St-Cirice
#
#
8
# \
D656
LOT-ET- 0 ¸ 30 / ·
N20
D653
GARONNE
/ ·
A20
# e 0 0 15 miles 30 km

medieval trading post The Drive » The corkscrew streets and medieval
and pilgrims’ stopover. drive west of Figeac along the buildings, many of which
Figeac is also famous D662 is a classic, tracking now house potters’ and
as the birthplace of Fran- the course of the Lot River all artists’ studios. The
çois Champollion (1790– the way to Cahors. The 46km village is essentially one
1832), the Egyptologist stretch to St-Cirq-Lapopie is long, steep main street;
particularly scenic, at some
and linguist whose efforts points cut directly into the at the top is the ruined
in deciphering the Ro- cliffside, at others snaking along château, which has a
setta Stone provided the the peaceful riverbanks. Take it magnificent viewing
key for cracking Egyptian slow and enjoy the drive. terrace that overlooks
hieroglyphics. Explore the whole Lot Valley. It’s
his story at the Musée TRIP HIGHLIGHT a magical setting, but be
Champollion (%05 65 50 31 warned: if it’s peace and
08; www.musee-champollion.fr; 2 St-Cirq-Lapopie tranquillity you’re look-
place Champollion; adult/child This famously photogenic ing for, you won’t find it
€5/2.50; h10.30am-6.30pm hilltop village teeters at in high summer.
daily Jul & Aug, shorter hours the crest of a sheer cliff, There are car parks at ATLANTIC COAST 37 THE LOT VALLEY
rest of year). high above the Lot. It’s a the top of the village and
delightful tangle of red- at the bottom of the hill.
54 p399 roofed houses, cobbled
54 p399
# \
# \
The Drive » Head downhill
from St-Cirq-Lapopie, cross
the river and rejoin the D662.
Rocamadour Bouziès is 4km west.
# \
Aynac
# \ # \
Gramat # \ Leyme TRIP HIGHLIGHT
0 ¸ 0 ¸ 3 Bouziès
D677
D840
# \ Lacapelle-
# \ Le Bastit Rudelle # \ Marival Just west of St-Cirq, this
F G riverside hamlet is an
36
0 ¸ # \ # \ Assier # \ Cardaillac ideal place to get out on
# \ Montfaucon
D802
Labastide- Durbans l L
# \ Livernon # \
Murat LOT Lissac
# \ Figeac LINK
Parc Naturel Régional
Causses de Quercy F G Espagnac- # 1 # \ # YOUR
30
# \
0 ¸ # \ Blars # \ St-Sulpice Faycelles TRIP
Ste-Eulalie
Célé
D653
St-Pierre- # \ u Cheat’s
Gréalou # \ Toirac 0 ¸ Compostela
D922
Sauliac-
# \ 0 ¸ # \ Lot # \ Gelles
Bouziès # \ Cabrerets sur-Celé Cadrieu D662 This route intersects with
#
3
# \ # # \ # \ our road-trip version of the
# \ # \ Conduché # \ Cajarc Montsalès
# \ Chemin de St-Jacques at
#
2
St-Gery Tour # St-Cirq- Cahors and Figeac.
de Faure / · La Capelle-
D19
Lapopie # \ # \
Balaguer Villeneuve Dordogne’s
Limogne- {
en-Quercy F G Fortified Villages
# \ 0 ¸ 36 Our bastides tour begins at
D911
Villefranche Monflanquin, 20km north of
/ · de Rouergue # \ Villeneuve-sur-Lot.
D19
Aveyron 395

GIUGLIO GIL / GETTY IMAGES ©

















ATLANTIC COAST 37 THE LOT VALLEY






the water – either on a the gorgeous river scenery main city. With its balmy
boat cruise or under your at your own pace. Trip weather and scarlet-
own steam. Les Croisères lengths range from 4km stone buildings, it has
de St-Cirq-Lapopie (%05 to 22km; rates include the air of a sunbaked
65 31 72 25; www.croisieres- minibus transport to your Mediterranean town.
saint-cirq-lapopie.com; 1hr chosen starting-point. Pastel- coloured buildings
tours adult/child €11/8) runs The Drive » The twisty route line the shady squares
regular river cruises on west to Cahors is another of the old medieval
its small fleet of boats, fine drive, travelling for 28km quarter, crisscrossed by
including aboard an along the gorge and affording a labyrinth of alley ways,
open-topped gabarre, a dramatic views nearly all the cul-de-sacs and medieval
flat-bottomed barge that way. There are plenty of pleasant quays. It’s also an impor-
was once the traditional places to stop for a picnic by the tant wine growing area,
mode of river transport river. Once you reach Cahors, with vineyards stretching
in this region of France. follow signs to the ‘Centre-Ville’. out across the surround-
Parking is free along the river
Alternatively, if you and on place Charles de Gaulle. ing hills.
prefer to be your own cap- The town’s main
tain, Kalapca (%05 65 24 21 landmark is the impres-
01; www.kalapca.com/uk; half-/ 4 Cahors sive Pont Valentré, one
full day €30/45; hApr-Sep) of France’s most iconic
rents kayaks and canoes, Nestled in a U-shaped medieval bridges. Built as
boucle (curve) in the
perfect for experiencing part of the town’s defenc-
Lot, Cahors is the area’s
396

Figeac Inside the Musée Champollion
es in the 14th century, its way through the rich
the parapets projecting vineyards of the Cahors 6 Puy l’Évêque
from two of its three tall AOC region. It’s up to On a rocky hillside above
towers were designed to you whether you wish the northern bank of
allow defenders to drop to take advantage of the the Lot, Puy l’Évêque
missiles on attackers be- signs offering dégusta- was one of the most
low. It’s also worth step- tion (tasting). Otherwise, important medieval ports
ping inside the beautiful carry on along the road, in the Lot Valley, and
12th-century Cathédrale passing the dams at its quays are lined with
St-Étienne, a harmonious Luzech, whose medieval once-grand merchants’
blend of Romanesque and section sits at the base houses – some have
Gothic styles. of a donjon (keep), and been carefully restored;
Castelfranc, with a dra-
54 p399 matic suspension bridge. others are a little worse
The Drive » Head west of The Drive » West of Luzech, for wear. The old town is
also well worth a stroll,
town via the D8, following signs stay on the minor D8, which hugs with many fine stone
to Luzech and Pradines.
the south bank of the river. The mansions and tumble-
road affords super vistas of the down medieval buildings,
local vineyards and the river’s best appreciated from the
5 Luzech many hairpin curves. You’ll reach
Downstream from Ca- Puy l’Évêque after 26km, or road bridge that spans
the Lot just outside town.
hors, the lower Lot twists around 35 minutes’ driving.
397

DETOUR:
CHÂTEAU DE BIRON
Start: 7 Bonaguil
If you enjoyed the castle architecture of Bonaguil, you might like to cut across
country to the nearby Château de Biron (%05 53 63 13 39; www.semitour.com; D53;
adult/child €8.20/5.30, joint ticket with Cadouin €11.90/7; h10am-7pm daily Jul & Aug, 10am-1pm
& 2-6pm Apr-Jun & Sep-Oct, Tue-Sun Nov-May, closed Jan), a glorious mishmash of styles,
having been fiddled with by eight centuries of successive heirs. It’s particularly
notable for its slate turrets, state rooms and double loggia staircase, supposedly
modelled on one at Versailles; the oldest part of the castle is the 12th-century keep.
It’s had mixed fortunes over the centuries, and was finally sold in the early 1900s
to pay for the extravagant lifestyle of a particularly irresponsible heir. It’s since
featured in countless films, including Luc Besson’s Jeanne d’Arc (Joan of Arc; 1999)
and Bernard Tavernier’s La Fille d’Artagnan (D’Artagnan’s Daughter; 1994).


The Drive » To get to the military architecture, but has long since been
Château de Bonaguil, continue with towers, bastions, swallowed up by more
west along the D811 for 14km loopholes, machi colations modern architecture. The
ATLANTIC COAST 37 THE LOT VALLEY
towards Fumel. About 1km east and crenel lations built di- centre of the old town is
of town, there’s a right turn onto rectly into the limestone guarded by two medieval
the D673, signed to Gourdon/ cliffs. Guided tours in gateways, the Porte de
Bonaguil. Follow signs for
another 8km, making sure not to English run several times Paris and the Porte de
miss the left turn onto the D158. daily in July and August. Pujols (the other six are
no longer standing); in
The Drive » Loop back onto
the D673, making a short detour between runs the main
TRIP HIGHLIGHT thoroughfare of rue de
via the pretty little village of
7 Bonaguil St-Martin-le-Redon if you wish. Paris and the arcaded
There’s one unmistake- Follow signs through Fumel bastide-style square of
able reason to stop in the onto the D911 all the way to place Lafayette, surround-
village of Bonaguil, and Villeneuve-sur-Lot. ed by shops and cafes.
that’s to wander round its Along the river, look out
imposing feudal château 8 Villeneuve-sur- for the Pont Vieux, a
(%05 53 71 90 33; www. 13th-century bridge that
chateau-bonaguil.com; adult/ Lot was supposedly modelled
child €8/4; h10am-7pm Jul Last stop on the trip on the Pont Valentré
& Aug, 10am-5.30pm Apr-Jun, is the river town of in Cahors, although its
Sep & Oct), a fine exam- Villeneuve-sur-Lot, which defensive towers have
ple of late-15th-century began life as a bastide disappeared.











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