Lonely Planet France’s Best Trips (Travel Guide)

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LIONEL LOURDEL / GETTY IMAGES ©
Caves & Cellars

of the Loire 12





This tour of caves, wine cellars and châteaux explores the best of
the western Loire Valley, home to habitations troglodytiques (cave
dwellings) and some of France’s finest food and wine.

TRIP HIGHLIGHTS
3 DAYS
39 km
160KM / 100 MILES
Chinon
Stroll medieval streets
0 km in Joan of Arc's GREAT FOR…
footsteps
Saumur BH
Home of triple-sec,
fine dining and
acrobatic horses
BEST TIME TO GO
May for greenery;
#
Brissac
Quincé September and
m K l L October for grape
harvest.
# # 1
# #
#
10 # # St-Hilaire-
# #
# #
St-Florent # # ESSENTIAL
2
I PHOTO
#
Doue-la- # Fontevraud- # 6
# #
Fontaine Brézé l'Abbaye # Turquant’s cliff face,
with converted cave
dwellings and windmill.
Rochemenier Turquant BEST FOR
Explore ancient Cliff-side caves K WINE-TASTING
cave-dwelling converted to restaurants
traditions and galleries The 15km stretch
98 km 9 km between St-Hilaire-
St-Florent and
Montsoreau.
Chinon 149
Location Caption details to go here Château and medieval quarter

Caves & TRIP HIGHLIGHT

12 Cellars of the 1 Saumur
Loire
Start your tour in sophis-
ticated Saumur, one of
the Loire Valley’s great
gastro nomic and viticul-
The Loire Valley’s easily excavated tuffeau (soft tural centres.
For an overview of
limestone) has been central to the area’s culture the region’s wines and
for millennia. From Merovingian quarries that wine producers, along
did a booming international trade in Christian with free tastings, head
to the riverside Maison
sarcophagi, to medieval and Renaissance des Vins (%02 41 38 45 83;
châteaux, to modern restaurants, mushroom 7 quai Carnot; h10am-1pm &
3-7pm Mon-Sat & 10am-1pm Sun
farms and wine cellars ensconced in one-time Jun-Aug, 10am-12.30pm & 2.30-
cave dwellings, this tour offers an intro to local 6pm Tue-Sat early Apr-May,
Sep & Oct). Next, explore
troglodyte culture and opportunities to savour Saumur’s other claim
the region’s renowned gastronomy and wines.


/ · # \
A11
Noyant
Angers
# \
Mazé
# \ Beaufort-
#
H en-Vallée PAYS DE LA LOIRE
# \
Mûrs- p155
Erigné / · Loire / ·
A85
A87
# \ # \
0 ¸
D748
/ · St-Georges- # \ Vernantes
D55
des-Sept-
Château de # # \ Brissac- Voies Longue- # \
#
11
Brissac Quincé # \ 0 ¸ Jumelles
D751
# \ Gennes
MAINE- # \ Cunault
0 ¸ ET-LOIRE
D761
Milly
# \ m K # \
l L
D161
# \ 0 ¸ # \
#
12
Thouarce # Saumur
# 1
Rochemenier St-Hilaire- # 0 ¸
# St-Florent D947 Souzay-Champigny
#
10
Forêt # \ Turquant
de le Chêne- 0 ¸ / · Parnay # \ Candes-
D93
# \ #
2
Rond Doué-la- 0 ¸ D347 #
0 ¸ Fontaine 0 ¸ Château Montsoreau # St-Martin
D960
# \ #
#
3
# \ #
D761
4
D162
D947 / ·
D960
# 0 ¸ de Brézé 0 ¸ D7
9
#
#
#
8
0 ¸ Brézé # 0 ¸
#
5
Vihiers D960 # \ D751
Thouet de Fontevraud
# \ Abbaye
0 ¸
D50
# \ Montreuil- / · D147 0 ¸ Lerne
Bellay D117 # \ # \
POITOU-
CHARENTES

to fermented fame at oranges. Around town, the equines’ astonishing
Distillerie Combier (%02 make sure to try Saumur’s acrobatic capabilities and
41 40 23 02; www.combier. iconic aperitif, soupe discipline.
fr; 48 rue Beaurepaire; tours saumuroise – made with
adult/child €4/free; htours triple sec, lemon juice and 54 p156
10.30am, 2.30pm & 4.30pm sparkling wine. The Drive » Southeast of
Tue-Sun Apr-Oct, plus Mon Other Saumur Saumur, the D947 meanders
Jun-Sep, shop 10am-12.30pm highlights include the for 10km through the villages
& 2-6pm or 7pm Tue-Sat, plus fairy-tale, 13th-century of Souzay-Champigny and
Sun Apr-Oct & Dec, plus Mon Château de Saumur (%02 Parnay, home to several tasting
rooms, including Château
Jun-Sep & Dec), where triple 41 40 24 40; www.chateau- Villeneuve, Clos des
sec liqueur was invented saumur.com; adult/child €7/5; Cordeliers, Château de
in 1834; tours of the h10am-1pm & 2-5.30pm Tue- Parnay and Château de
still-functioning distillery Sun Apr-Oct, longer hours mid- Targé. Troglodyte dwellings
offer an engaging, behind- Jun–mid-Sep, closed Nov-Mar) pockmark the cliff face to your
the-scenes look at vintage and the École Nationale right as a hilltop windmill signals
architecture by Eiffel, d’Équitation (%02 41 53 your arrival in Turquant.
gleaming century-old 50 60; www.cadrenoir.fr; av de
copper stills and fragrant l’École Nationale d’Équitation, TRIP HIGHLIGHT
vats full of Haitian bitter St-Hilaire-St-Florent; tours 2 Turquant
adult/child €8/6; htours
Mon-Sat early Feb-early Nov), Backed by chalk- coloured, LOIRE VALLEY & CENTRAL FRANCE 12 CAvES & CELLARS OF THE LOIRE
a renowned equestrian cave-riddled cliffs, pic-
academy that has long turesque Turquant is a
0 10 km trained France’s Olympic showcase for the creative
# \
# e 0 5 miles adaptation of historic
teams and the Cadre
Noir, an elite group of troglodyte dwellings. The
riding instructors. Take a town’s ‘main street’ runs
one-hour guided visit or parallel to the D947, past
book ahead for one of the a handful of art galleries,
not-to-be-missed Cadre restaurants and other
Noir performances (%02 enterprises featuring
41 53 50 80; www.cadrenoir. designer windows and
# Gizeux fr; présentation adult/child colourful doors wedged
\
€19/13, gala €30-65), ‘horse into the cliff face.
28 km to ballets’ (held in April, Turn right off the main
Parc F G road to Le Troglo des
Naturel Régional Loire 1 May, July, September and
Anjou Touraine ‚ October) that show off Pommes Tapées (%02 41
CENTRE
/ · # \
A85
Bourgueil LINK
\ # Rigny- YOUR
Île St- Ussé
Martin \ # TRIP
\ #
Indre Essential France Châteaux of the
# Huismes 1 Head east to b Loire
\
F G 0 ¸ Chambord to join this In Chinon, connect to this
D751
11
country-wide circuit of classic tour of the Loire
0 ¸ iconic French sights. Valley’s most famous
0 ¸ # Chinon Forêt de châteaux.
D749
#
6
D751
Chinon
#
# 7
# \ # \
# \
Musée La Roche- Vienne
Rabelais Clermault 151
Seuilly

51 48 30; www.letroglodes 5pm mid-Dec–early Jan; c)
pommestapees.fr; 11 rue des was built in 1455 by one
Ducs d’Anjou; adult/child of Charles VII’s advisers
€6.50/4; h10am-12.30pm & and later became famous YURI TURKOV / SHUTTERSTOCK ©
2-6.30pm Apr-late Sep, 2-6pm thanks to an Alexandre
Sat & Sun Oct–mid-Nov), a Dumas novel La Dame de
cave house whose owners Monsoreau. The crown-
have revived the tradi- ing attraction here is the
tional art of oven-drying dazzling view from the
and hand-flattening rooftop, extending from
apples into the artisa- the Loire’s confluence
nal delicacy known as with the Vienne to the
pommes tapées. Guided domes and turrets of
tours are followed by Saumur. In the warm
tastings of dried apples. season, enjoy free wine-
Turquant’s tuffeau tasting in the castle’s
cliffs have also been cellars.
adapted for use as wine Nearby, the Maison du
cellars by producers such Parc (%02 41 38 38 88; www.
as La Grande Vignolle parc-loire-anjou-touraine.fr; 15
(%02 41 38 16 44; www. av de la Loire; h9.30am-1pm
filliatreau.com; h10am-6pm & 2-6pm or 7pm daily Apr-Sep,
Apr-Oct, 2-6pm Thu & Fri, Tue-Sun Oct, Sat & Sun Mar)
10am-6pm Sat & Sun Feb, Mar, offers information on the
Nov & Dec) and Domaine Parc Naturel Régional
des Amandiers (www. Loire-Anjou-Touraine,
domaine-des-amandiers.com). which protects 2530 sq
km of the surrounding
54 p156 landscape.
The Drive » It’s just a The Drive » Follow the D751 Confluent (a pleasant
3km hop, skip and jump to 1km southeast into Candes- spot for a picnic), or fol-
Montsoreau along the D947 and St-Martin, enjoying pretty river low the brown ‘Panorama
D751. Alternatively, follow the views on your left. Piétons’ signs uphill from
LOIRE VALLEY & CENTRAL FRANCE 12 CAvES & CELLARS OF THE LOIRE
narrow Route des Vins (parallel the church for higher-
and slightly south of the D947) altitude perspectives.
to the 16th-century windmill
Moulin de la Herpinière, then 4 Candes-St-Martin The Drive » Snake 6km
continue into Montsoreau via Recognised as one of south along the D751, D7
tiny Chemin de la Herpinière. France’s prettiest vil- and D947, following signs for
lages, Candes-St-Martin Fontevraud-l’Abbaye. From the
D7/D947 junction, a worthwhile
occupies an idyllic spot 800m detour leads northwest
3 Montsoreau at the confluence of the to the artisanal soap factory
Beautifully perched on Vienne and Loire Rivers. Savonnerie Martin de Candre.
the edge of the Loire, the A long-time pilgrimage
Château de Montsoreau site, the town’s 12th- to
(%02 41 67 12 60; www. 13th-century church 5 Abbaye Royale de
chateau-montsoreau.com; venerates the spot where Fontevraud
passage du Marquis de Geoffre; St Martin died in 397.
adult/child €9.20/5.50, adult Wander down to the The highlight of this
incl Fontevraud €15; h10am- benches overlooking the 12th-century abbey (%02
7pm early Apr–mid-Nov, to waterfront along rue du 41 51 73 52; www.abbayede-
fontevraud.com; adult/child

152

Abbaye Royale de Fontevraud Twelfth-century abbey complex

€11/7.50, 1½hr audioguide ries, workrooms, prayer encounter with Charles
€4.50; h9.30am-6pm halls and a wonderful VII (1429), and charm-
Apr-Oct, 10am-5pm Nov, Dec, Gothic-vaulted refectory, ing medieval quarter,
Feb & Mar) complex is the while outside there are the riverside village of
vast but movingly simple medieval-style gardens Chinon is home to several
church, notable for its and a multi-chimneyed fine restaurants, making
soaring pillars, Roman- kitchen. it a prime candidate for
esque domes and the The Drive » Backtrack 5km an overnight stay. For
polychrome stone tombs to the D751 and follow it 13km customised half-day tours
of four illustrious Plan- southeast and then north of adjacent AOC wine-
tagenets: Henry II, King toward Chinon. Immediately growing areas, includ-
of England (r 1154–89); after crossing the Vienne River, ing Chinon, Cravant,
his wife, Eleanor of take the D749 and head east Saumur-Champigny,
Aquitaine (who retired 3km, paralleling the riverfront St-Nicolas-de-Bourgeuil
to Fontevraud following into town. and Touraine, contact
Henry’s death); their son bilingual Chinon native
Richard the Lionheart; TRIP HIGHLIGHT Alain Caillemer (%02 47
and the wife of his 6 Chinon 95 87 59; www.loirewinery
brother King John, Isa- tours.com; half-day tours per
belle of Angoulème. The Renowned for its tower- couple €85).
cloister is surrounded ing hilltop château, site of
by one-time dormito- Joan of Arc’s fateful first 54 p147, p157

153

The Drive » Zigzag 8km tour €14.50/12.50; h10am- Nearby, Les Perrières
southwest of Chinon through 6pm or 7pm Feb-Dec) sits (%02 41 59 71 29; www.
lovely rolling farmland along on top of a network of les-perrieres.com; 545 rue des
the D749A, D751E, D759, D24 subterranean rooms and Perrières; adult/child €7/4.50;
and D117, following signs for La passages; a self-guided h10am-12.30pm & 2-6pm
Devinière. tour takes you to kitchens, Tue-Sun Mar-Oct) is a vast
wine cellars, defensive network of 18th- and
7 Musée Rabelais bastions and a troglodyte 19th-century stone quar-
ries sometimes called the
dwelling from the time
Set among fields and of the Norman invasions ‘cathedral caves’ because
vineyards with rural (11th century). Above of their soaring sloping
sweeping views, La ground, much of the walls, said to resemble
Devinière farmstead is U-shaped château dates Gothic arches.
the birthplace of François from the 19th century, as
Rabelais – doctor, Fran- do the many intricately The Drive » Skirt the
southern edge of Doué-la-
ciscan friar, theoretician, painted neo-Gothic and Fontaine via the D960 for 4km,
author and all-around neo-Renaissance interiors. then continue 5km north on
Renaissance man – and Don’t miss the top floor of the D761 to the Rochemenier
was the inspiration for the West Tower, used in exit. Follow signs the remaining
his five satirical Gar- the 1800s as quarters for 1.5km into Rochemenier.
gantua and Pantagruel lower-ranking servants
novels. The farmstead’s TRIP HIGHLIGHT
rambling buildings hold The Drive » Chart a
the Musée Rabelais (La meandering 22km course a Rochemenier
through relatively flat farm
Devinière; %02 47 95 91 18; country into Doué-la-Fontaine via Surrounded by peaceful
www.musee-rabelais.fr; 4 rue the D93, D162, D163 and D960. countryside, the museum-
de la Devinière, Seuilly; adult/ village of Rochemenier
child €5.50/4.50; h10am- (%02 41 59 18 15; www.troglo
7pm Jul & Aug, 10am-12.30pm 9 Doué-la-Fontaine dyte.fr; 14 rue du Musée; adult/
& 2-6pm Apr-Sep, to 5pm At the southeastern edge child €6.10/3.70; h9.30am-
Oct-Mar, closed Tue Oct-Mar), of this small industrial 7pm Apr-Sep, 10am-6pm
featuring early editions town, stop to visit the Tue-Sun Oct-Nov & Feb-Mar)
of Rabelais’s work and a fascinating Troglodytes preserves the remains of
LOIRE VALLEY & CENTRAL FRANCE 12 CAvES & CELLARS OF THE LOIRE
charcoal portrait of the et Sarcophages (%06 two troglodyte farmsteads
author by Matisse. that were inhabited until
77 77 06 94; www.troglo- the 1930s, complete with
The Drive » Follow the D117 sarcophages.fr; 1 rue de la houses, stables and an
west through the gorgeous Croix Mordret; adult/child underground chapel.
village of Seuilly, home to an €4.90/3.30; h2.30-7pm
11th-century abbey. After 8km, daily Jun-Aug, Sat & Sun May, Throughout the complex,
cross the D147 and continue tours 3pm daily Feb, Easter, All farm tools and photos of
another 13km west-northwest Saints Day & Christmas school former residents evoke
along the D48, D50, D310, D110 the hard-working spirit
and D93 into Brézé. holidays), a Merovingian and simple pleasures that
quarry where sarcophagi defined life underground
were produced from the for many generations.
8 Château de Brézé 6th to the 9th centuries Displays in the last room
Off-the-beaten-track and exported via the focus on international
Château de Brézé (%02 41 Loire as far as England cave-dwelling cultures, in-
and Belgium. Reserve
51 60 15; www.chateaudebreze. cluding places as far afield
com; 2 rue du Château, Brézé; ahead for a 90-minute as China and Turkey.
adult/child €11.50/9.50, incl lantern-lit tour. 4 p157

154

DETOUR:
ANGERS

Start: b Château de Brissac
Looming above the river, Angers’s forbidding medieval castle – historic seat of the
once-mighty counts and dukes of Anjou – is ringed by moats, 2.5m-thick walls made
of dark schist, and 17 massive round towers. Inside is one of Europe’s great medieval
masterpieces, the stunning Tenture de l’Apocalypse (Apocalypse tapestry), a
104m-long series of tapestries commissioned in 1375 to illustrate the story of the
final battle between good and evil, as prophesied in the Bible’s Book of Revelations.
Just outside the château, taste and learn about the region’s AOC wines at the
Maison des Vin d’Angers. Afterwards stroll through Angers’ pedestrianised centre,
where you’ll find cafes, restaurants, excellent art museums and the whimisical
Maison d’Adam (place Ste-Croix), a remarkably well-preserved medieval house
decorated with bawdy carved figurines.
To get here, head 28km northwest from Brissac on the D748, A87 and N260,
following signs for Angers-Centre.



The Drive » Return to the The Drive » Follow the D55 into a cave where count- LOIRE VALLEY & CENTRAL FRANCE 12 CAvES & CELLARS OF THE LOIRE
D761, then follow it 15km 6km northeast, then wind less varieties of fungi are
northwest to Brissac-Quincé, 15km east-southeast on the cultivated.Almost next
where signs direct you 1.5km D751 through forests and door, Pierre et Lumière
further to the château. sunflower fields to rejoin the (%02 41 50 70 04; www.pierre-
Loire at Gennes. From here, a et-lumiere.com; rte de Gennes;
particularly scenic stretch of adult/child €8.40/6; h10am-
b Château de the D751 follows the Loire’s 6pm or 7pm Feb-Nov) displays
Brissac sandy banks 12km to St-Hilaire- intricate limestone sculp-
St-Florent. Along the way, the
This imposing, seven- villages of St-Georges-des-Sept- tures of famous Loire
storey château (%02 41 91 Voies (p157) and Chênehutte- Valley monuments.
22 21; www.chateau-brissac. Trèves-Cunault offer enticing East towards Saumur,
fr; Brissac-Quincé; adult/child eating and sleeping options. tasting rooms invite you
incl tour €10/4.50, gardens only to sample local AOC vin-
€5/free; htours 10am-noon c St-Hilaire-St- tages, including Crémant
& 2-5.30pm Wed-Mon Apr-Oct, de Loire and Saumur
10am-5.30pm daily Jul & Aug, Florent Brut; well-established
plus 2pm & 4pm Wed-Mon Feb This western suburb wineries along this route
& Christmas school holidays) – of Saumur is home to a include Ackerman (www.
France’s tallest castle – has number of wineries and ackerman.fr), Gratien et
204 rooms, many of them cave-based attractions. At Meyer (www.gratienmeyer.
sumptuously furnished the Musée du Champi- com), Langlois-Château
with antique furniture, gnon (%02 41 50 31 55; www. (%02 41 40 21 40; www.
Flemish tapestries and musee-du-champignon.com; langlois-chateau.fr; 3 rue
twinkling chandeliers. The rte de Gennes; adult/child Léopold Palustre; tours adult/
serene 70-hectare gardens €8.40/6; h10am-6pm early child €5/free; hshop 10am-
have 19th-century stables, Feb–mid-Nov), learn oodles 12.30pm & 2-6.30pm Apr–
and vineyards boasting of mushroom facts and mid-Oct) and Veuve Amiot
three AOC vintages. trivia as you wander deep (www.veuveamiot.fr).


155

Eating & Sleeping


4 Château de Beaulieu B&B €€
Saumur 1 (%02 41 50 83 52; www.chateaudebeaulieu.
fr; 98 rte de Montsoreau; d incl breakfast
5 Le Pot de Lapin Modern French €€ €100-130, d/q €150/180; hmid-Mar–mid-
(%02 41 67 12 86; 35 rue Rabelais; mains €12-22; Nov; pWs) Irish expats Mary and Conor
hnoon-2pm & 7-9.30pm Tue-Sat) Jazz wafts welcome you to their 1727 château with a glass
from the cheery dining room, decorated with of crémant de Saumur (sparkling wine). Rooms
tools of the winemaker’s art, through the wine are imaginatively and comfortably done up and
bar and onto the street-side terrace as Chef the mood among gregarious guests is one of
Olivier works the tables, proposing perfect wine extended family. Sun yourself by the pool (next
pairings. Start with a local bubbly, then move to the vineyard) or play billiards in the grand
on to foie gras with onion-and-fruit chutney or salon. Situated 2.5km southeast of Saumur.
monkfish with cream. Situated 1km southeast
along the river from the centre. 4 Château
de Verrières Heritage Hotel €€€
5 L’Escargot Traditional French €€ (%02 41 38 05 15; www.chateau-verrieres.
(%02 41 51 20 88; 30 rue du Maréchal Leclerc; com; 53 rue d’Alsace; r €180-240, ste €295-345;
lunch/dinner menus from €20/30; hnoon- hclosed mid-Jan–mid-Feb; piWs)
1.30pm Thu, Fri, Sun & Mon, 7.30-9.30pm This splendid 1890 château, surrounded by
Thu-Mon; W) A Saumur fixture for over half a 1.6-hectare English park, is sumptuous
a century, this place is all about traditional throughout, with wood-panelled salons, marble
recipes done really well, like escargots with fireplaces, original artwork, antique writing
‘three butters’ (flavored with herbs, walnuts and desks and cast-iron bathtubs. Some of the 10
Roquefort) or carré d’agneau rôti à l’ail et au thym bedrooms, each different, offer views of the sun
(loin of lamb roasted with garlic and thyme). rising over Saumur’s château.
5 Le Gambetta Gastronomy €€€
(%02 41 67 66 66; www.restaurantlegambetta. Turquant 2
com; 12 rue Gambetta; lunch menus €28, other
menus €35-109; hnoon-1.30pm Tue & Thu-Sun, 5 L’Hélianthe Modern French €€
7.15-9pm Tue & Thu-Sat) This is one to write home (%02 44 10 12 39; www.restaurant-helianthe.fr;
LOIRE VALLEY & CENTRAL FRANCE 12 CAvES & CELLARS OF THE LOIRE
about: a truly outstanding restaurant combining ruelle Antoine Cristal; mains €16; hnoon-2pm
refined elegance and knock-your-socks-off & 7-8.45pm Thu-Tue Apr–mid-Nov, Sat & Sun
creative French cuisine. Some menus include winter) Tucked into a cliff behind Turquant’s
wine pairings perfectly chosen to complement mairie (town hall), this atmospheric restaurant
the parade of gorgeously presented dishes, has a hearty menu firmly based on local
punctuated by surprise treats from the kitchen.
products and classic French flavours.
4 Hôtel de Londres Hotel € 4 Demeure
(%02 41 51 23 98; www.lelondres.com; 48 de la Vignole Design Hotel €€
rue d’Orléans; d €74-114, q €125, apt €140;
paiW) Built as an hôtel de grand standing (%02 41 53 67 00; www.demeure-vignole.
(luxury hotel) and named in honour of the com; 3 impasse Marguerite d’Anjou; d €130-165,
British capital in 1837, this family-run hotel – 4-person ste €270-290; hclosed mid-Nov–
entirely renovated in 2016 – has 27 spacious mid-Mar; Ws) This swish hotel has 12 richly
rooms decorated in jolly colours and two decorated rooms, five of them in caves. The
family-friendly apartments, all with big windows 15m swimming pool is carved into the rock face,
and gleaming bathrooms. Lobby perks include too. Very homey, and not just for hobbits. A
afternoon tea (€2.50) and a well-stocked BD wonderful change from the ordinary.
(comics) library. No lift (yet).


156

apt €175; aW) Run impeccably by the same
Chinon 6 couple since 1979, this Best Western–affiliated
hotel, right in the centre of town, has 30 rooms
5 Au Chapeau arrayed around an inner courtyard. Tastefully
Rouge Gastronomy €€ decorated in a contemporary style, many have
(%02 47 98 08 08; www.auchapeaurouge.fr; views of the château – as does the magnificent,
49 place du Général de Gaulle, aka place de la flowery terrace on the roof. Offers enclosed
Fontaine; lunch menus €22.50, dinner menus bicycle parking. No lift.
€29-58; hnoon-1pm Wed-Sun, 7.30-8.45pm
Tue-Sat; W) Secluded behind a red-and-gold
awning, this sparkling and very elegant eatery Rochemenier a
makes top-quality French dishes using local 4 Les Délices
products – look for Loire fish, lamb, asparagus de la Roche B&B €
and saffron, Touraine truffles, and Ste-Maure-
de-Touraine, a delicious chèvre. In winter (%02 41 50 15 26; www.delicesdelaroche.com;
specialities include melt-in-your-mouth hare 16 rue du Musée, Rochemenier; d €60; W)
and foie-gras terrine. Has vegetarian options Friendly young hosts Henri and Sabrina rent
from June to August. out five simple, spacious rooms in the peaceful
countryside near Rochemenier’s troglodyte
5 Les Années 30 French €€ village. You can dine at the restaurant (menus
(%02 47 93 37 18; www.lesannees30.com; from €22.90) or at their table d’hôte (adults €22,
78 rue Haute St-Maurice; lunch/dinner menus children €1 per year of their age; reserve ahead).
from €18/27; h12.15-1.45pm & 7.30-9.30pm LOIRE VALLEY & CENTRAL FRANCE 12 CAvES & CELLARS OF THE LOIRE
Thu-Mon) Expect the kind of meal you came
to France to eat, with exquisite attention to St-Georges-des-Sept-voies b
flavours and detail, served in relaxed intimacy.
The menu ranges from traditional duck fillet to 5 Auberge la
unusual choices such as pan-fried venison fillet Sansonnière French €€
with redcurrant sauce. The interior dining room (%02 41 57 57 70; www.auberge-sansonniere.
is golden-lit downstairs and cool blue upstairs; com; St-Georges-des-Sept-Voies; menus €25-58;
in summer dine outside under the pergola. h12.15-1.30pm Tue-Sun, 7.30-9pm Tue-Sat)
4 Hôtel de France Hotel €€ Surrounded by sunflower fields, this stone-built
country inn, with a wood-beamed dining room,
(%02 47 93 33 91; www.bestwestern- serves exquisite traditional French menus that
hoteldefrance-chinon.com; 47 place du Général evolve with the seasons and focus on fresh local
de Gaulle, aka place de la Fontaine; d €99-139, products, including fish and vegetables.





















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Location Caption details to go here

PICAVET / GETTY IMAGES ©
Volcanoes of the


Auvergne 13





Green pastures and volcanic scenery feature on this tour of the
Parc Naturel Régional des Volcans d’Auvergne. Get ready for great
hiking, hearty mountain meals and acclaimed cheeses.

TRIP HIGHLIGHTS

l L 4 DAYS
200KM / 125 MILES

# # #
12 km # GREAT FOR…
2
Puy de Dôme JHG
The Auvergne's
favourite lava dome # Orcival
BEST TIME TO GO
38 km # # # # # St-Nectaire May to September for
5
warm weather and
Le Mont-Dore R snow-free trails.
A hiker's playground Puy de
Sancy
surrounded by (1885m)
stunning peaks ESSENTIAL
I PHOTO
The symmetrical
crags of Roches
Tuilière and Sanadoire
framing the lush
greenery below Col de
200 km Guéry.
m K # Cobbled streets, cow BEST FOR
Salers
# # #
9
pastures, volcanoes K FAMILIES
R and superb cheese
Puy Mary The volcanic theme
(1787m)
park Vulcania.
P Location Caption details to go hereuy de Dôme A popular spot for paragliding 159

CREUSE
0 ¸
D941
13 Volcanoes of # Giat
the Auvergne
\

Aeons ago, Europe’s biggest volcanoes shaped the Herment # \
landscape of south-central France, blowing their tops
with awe-inspiring force. On this trip you’ll experience
\ #
the wild beauty of the Auvergne’s vestigial volcanoes Parc Naturel
Régional
– Puy de Dôme, Puy de Sancy and Puy Mary – de Millevaches 0 ¸ Bourg-
en Limousin
Lastic
D1089
#
but you’ll also discover a tamer Auvergne whose Merlines 0 ¸
\
#
\
A89
picturesque patchwork of eroded cinder cones and # Messex
\
verdant pastures is home to family-friendly hiking ‚
trails, symphonies of cowbells and some of France’s 325 km to Tauves # \
finest cheese. F G
35
Larodde
# \ 0 ¸
D922
Bagnols # \
1 Vulcania TRIP HIGHLIGHT
For a dramatic introduc- 2 Puy de Dôme
tion to volcano-land, start Towering above the sur- Champs-sur-
at this educational, highly rounding landscape, the Bort-les- Tarentaine
\
#
Orgues
entertaining theme park symmetrical volcanic cone \ # 0 ¸
15km west of Clermont- of Puy de Dôme (1464m) D679
Ferrand. The brainchild of was already an iconic Antignac
two French geologists, it Auvergnat landmark long 0 ¸ \ #
D922
has such highlights as the before the Romans built a 0 ¸
D3
dynamic 3D film Awak- temple to Mercury on its ‚
ening of the Auvergne summit in the 1st century. 77 km to # \
Giants, depicting volcanic Hop aboard spiffy cog F G
36
eruptions complete with railway the Panoramique Trizac # \
air blasts and water spray, des Dômes (www.panoram # \
and the Cité des Enfants iquedesdomes.fr; adult/child \ # Moussages
(Kids’ City), with activities one-way €9.80/4.90, return / ·
specially geared towards €12.30/6.20; h10am-7pm D12
three- to seven-year-olds. Apr-Jun & Sep, 9am-9pm Jul
& Aug, 10am-5pm Wed-Sun 0 ¸
D680
The Drive » Head southeast Salers# \ #
#
9
7km along the D941 to the Oct-Mar) to reach the top; m K
D942, where full-on views of or if you’re feeling fit, walk
Puy de Dôme beckon you 2km up the steep 45-minute
southwest to the junction with Chemin des Muletiers
the D68 at the mountain’s base. footpath. Either way, you’ll
10 km
160 # e 0 0 5 miles

Chapdes- \ # Riom \ #
Beaufort be rewarded with stun-
# Pontaumur 0 ¸ Volvic ning views of the Chaîne
\
#
\
0 ¸ \ L D943 des Puys, a 40km expanse
# l
D941
Pontgibaud R Volcan de of extinct cinder cones
Lemptégy
Vulcania # # stretching to the horizon.
\ # 1
0 ¸ The summit is also prime
D941
/ · Puy de Clermont- hang-gliding territory;
Ferrand
A89
R #
2
0 ¸
Dôme # D942 Royat # ] operators such as Aero
\
#
Parapente (%06 61 24 11 45;
0 ¸ Laschamps # Ceyrat www.aeroparapente.fr; €150;
#
\
\
hFeb-Oct) will take you
D2089
# \ # \ St-Genès-
Nébouzat soaring over the surround-
# \ Briffons Champanelle
# #
Orcival 3 \ # # Randanne # \ ing countryside for €80.
\
Rouchaube \ # St-Amant- \ # The Drive » The 20km drive
# \ Vernines Tallende
Laqueille # \ PUY- to Orcival skirts Puy de Dôme’s
4
c Col de Guéry
#
St-Sauves- # DE-DÔME southern flanks on the D942,
d'Auvergne 0 ¸ then continues southwest on the
D983
# \ D216 and D27, passing through
La Bourboule
# St-Nectaire
\ #
6
\ # Chambon- # increasingly hilly and pastoral
Le Mont-Dore# sur-Lac # \ \ # 0 ¸ countryside dotted with lovely
# #
\ 5
0 ¸
D996
La Tour- 0 ¸ # \ D637 Murol \ # stone and slate barns. LOIRE VALLEY & CENTRAL FRANCE 13 VOLCANOES OF THE AuVERGNE
d'Auvergne D36 Moneaux St-Floret
# \ R Super-
Puy de
Sancy
\ # 7
/ ·
\ # (1885m) \ # Besse # # 3 Orcival
Chastreix D5
# \ Besse-et-Saint-Anastaise Backed by a leafy green
R
Puy de hillside and bisected
Montchal
Picherande \ # (1411m) by a rushing stream,
0 ¸ # Compains photogenic Orcival clus-
D978
\
c Col de ters around a gorgeous
Chaumoune
Égliseneuve # \ (1155m) Ardes # \ Romanesque church
# Espinchal that houses one of the
\
# \
Chanterelle
# \
Condat LINK
0 ¸ \ # Parc Naturel Régional YOUR
D678
des Volcans d'Auvergne TRIP
# \ Riom-ès- # Lugarde Cave Art of the
\
Montagnes z Vézère Valley
/ · Detour three hours west of
D3
Ségur- Le Mont-Dore to discover
\
# les-Villas # Allanche
\
France’s oldest cave art.
# \ Cheylade
0 ¸ 0 ¸ { Dordogne’s
N122
D62
Dienne Chalinargues Fortified Villages
\ #
Le Claux # \ \ # # Moissac Explore centuries-old
\
# \ La Maurinie
0 ¸ CANTAL Murat castles and fortified villages
D680
along the Dordogne River,
# \ # three hours downstream
8
#
Puy # Super Lioran from Le Mont-Dore.
Mary \ 0 ¸
0 ¸ R Plomb du D926
N122
Cantal
(1855m) St-Flour
\ # 161

Auvergne’s most famous trout and perch. Purchase
Vierges noires (black fishing licences (€25) at
Madonnas, icons typical the Auberge du Lac de
of the region). An object Guéry on the lakeshore.
of veneration throughout GUY CHRISTIAN / HEMIS.FR / GETTY IMAGES ©
the year, she’s paraded 4 p165
through the streets The Drive » Spellbinding
with special fanfare mountain views unfold as
on Assumption Day (15 you approach the Massif du
August). The town also Sancy, a wall of peaks that’s
springs to life on Satur- often snowcapped late into the
spring. A sinuous 9km drive
day mornings in summer, along the D983 and D996 drops
when a colourful market you straight into downtown Le
fills the main square. In Mont-Dore.
summertime, head 2km
north of town to visit the
elegant grounds of Châ- TRIP HIGHLIGHT
teau de Cordès (%04 73 5 Le Mont-Dore
21 15 89; www.chateau-cordes- Ringed by rugged peaks
orcival.com; garden & chateau/ at the heart of the Parc
garden only €8/4, child free; Naturel Régional des
h10am-noon & 2-6pm daily Volcans d’Auvergne, this
Jul-Aug, plus Sun afternoons historic spa town makes
Jun), laid out by Versailles a great base for explor-
garden designer Le Nôtre. ing the surrounding
high country. A téléphé-
4 p165
rique (one way/return adult
The Drive » The D27 climbs €7.30/9.70, child €5.50/7.30;
8km through verdant hills and h9am-12.10pm & 1.30-5pm
evergreen forest to a spectacular mid-Nov–Sep, 9am-6pm fine hikes and mountain-
viewpoint just before Col de biking routes also start in
Guéry (1268m), where the Jul & Aug) whisks hikers downtown Le Mont-Dore,
dramatic volcanic crags Roche through a landscape of including the Chemin
LOIRE VALLEY & CENTRAL FRANCE 13 VOLCANOES OF THE AuVERGNE
Tuilière (1288m) and Roche precipitous crags to the de la Grande Cascade,
Sanadoire (1286m) rise in foot of Puy de Sancy which leads to a 32m-high
symmetry from the land below. (1885m), the tallest peak waterfall.
in the Massif Central
mountain range; across For route guides and
4 Col de Guéry town, a tortoise-slow high-resolution topo
maps, visit Le Mont-
This mountain pass, but creakily atmospheric Dore’s tourist office, in a
flanked by the Auvergne’s 1890s-vintage funicu- riverside park downtown.
highest lake, offers varied laire (rue René Cassin; one Nearby streets are filled
opportunities for outdoor way/return adult €4.50/5.90, with outdoors-oriented
recreation; check in with child €3.70/4.50; h10am- shops and purveyors of
the Centre Montagnard 12.10pm & 2-5.40pm Wed-Sun local charcuterie and
Cap Guéry (%04 73 65 May-early Oct, to 6.40pm daily cheeses such as La Petite
20 09; www.capguery.com; Jul & Aug) lumbers up to Boutique du Bougnat (1 & 4
hDec-Mar) for maps of the Les Capucins, an upland rue Montlosier; h9am-12.30pm
wild hiking terrain. Chilly plateau (1245m) where & 2.30-7pm mid-Dec–Oct).
Lac de Guéry (1268m) well-marked trails fan out
offers excellent fishing for in all directions. Several 54 p165


162

Parc Natural Régional des Volcans d’Auvergne Hiking in the mountains

The Drive » Begin with a dairy capitals. From the Grottes de Jonas, which include
spectacular traverse of 1451m upper town (St-Nectaire- a chapel, spiral staircases and
Col de la Croix St-Robert, le-Haut), climb 3km on a manor house carved directly
passing through 17km of wide- the D150 to La Ferme into the rock.
open high country along the Bellonte (www.st-nectaire.
D36. Next trundle along the com; rue du 10 août 1944,
D996 for 12km, enjoying pretty 7 Besse-et-Ste-
views of Lac de Chambon, Farges; hmilking 6-7am & 3.15- Anataise
popular with boaters, hikers 4.15pm, cheese-making 7-8am
and campers, and Murol’s & 5-6pm; c), a working Basalt-brick cottages,
hilltop castle, before reaching farm that offers free milk- cobbled lanes and a lovely
St-Nectaire. ing and cheese-making old belfry are reason
demonstrations twice enough to visit this pretty
daily, plus guided tours of mountain village, but
6 St-Nectaire the caves across the street hikers and mountain
Tiny St-Nectaire is fa- where the cheese is aged. bikers will also appreci-
mous for its 12th-century 4 p165 ate the fine network of
Romanesque church, trails surrounding Lac
stunningly set against The Drive » Follow the Pavin, a crater lake 6km
a mountain backdrop, D996 7km downstream to tiny west of town. For a taste
and its herds of happy Rivallet, then head southwest of mountain culture,
bovines, who make this 15km on the D978 into Besse, visit during the Tran-
watching on the left for the
one of the Auvergne’s shumance de la Vierge
medieval cliff dwellings Les
163

CHEESE COUNTRY

The Auvergne produces some of France’s finest cheeses, including five Appellation
d’Origine Protégée (AOP) varieties: the semihard, cheddar-like Cantal and nutty
Salers, both made from the milk of high-pasture cows; St-Nectaire, rich, flat and
semisoft; Fourme d’Ambert, a mild, smooth blue cheese; and Bleu d’Auvergne, a
powerful, creamy blue cheese with a Roquefort-like flavour.
To taste them on their home turf, follow stretches of the signposted Route
des Fromages (www.fromages-aop-auvergne.com), which links local farms and
producers. A downloadable map is available on the website.
Local cheeses figure strongly in many traditional Auvergnat dishes, including
aligot (puréed potato with garlic and Tomme or Cantal cheese) and truffade (sliced,
diced or mashed potatoes with Cantal cheese), usually served with a huge helping
of jambon d’Auvergne (local ham).

Noire, when local cows A trail, complete with place to linger. From
are herded to rich upland staircases for the steeper central place Tyssandier
pastures on 21 July and sections, leads to the d’Escous, you can walk up
back downhill in late Sep- summit (about one hour to the belvédère for pano-
tember, accompanied by round-trip). Find walking ramic views, or descend
street fairs and fireworks. routes for all abilities on into the town’s cobbled
www.puymary.fr. streets filled with shops
The Drive » Leave the Massif
du Sancy behind and head south The Drive » The 20km selling cheese and locally
82km towards the wilder, less descent along the D680 made knives. Spare some
populated Monts du Cantal. A switchbacks steeply through time to peer within a
curvy course through farmland a wonderland of high-country former Knights Templar
and river valleys along the D978 scenery before plunging into house, now the Musée de
and D678 leads to a supremely fragrant evergreen forest and Salers (%04 71 40 75 97; rue
scenic, sustained climb along following a long ridgeline into des Templiers; adult/child €5/
the D62 and D680, bringing you Salers.
face to face with Puy Mary, the free; h10am-12.30 & 2-5.30pm
LOIRE VALLEY & CENTRAL FRANCE 13 VOLCANOES OF THE AuVERGNE
southernmost of the Auvergne’s Mon-Thu & Sun, 2-5.30pm Sat
three classic peaks. TRIP HIGHLIGHT mid-Apr–mid-Oct), for local
9 Salers history in an enigmatic
setting. Day hikes range
8 Puy Mary Pretty Salers perches on from an easy 75-minute
a hilltop surrounded by
Barely wide enough to ac- fields full of long-horned circuit of the stone-walled
commodate parked cars, brown cattle that produce pastures surrounding
the vertiginous mountain the region’s eponymous town to high-mountain
pass of Pas de Peyrol AOP cheese. With a com- rambles through wide-
(1589m) hugs the base pact core of 16th-century open country around the
of pyramid-shaped Puy stone buildings and base of 1592m-high Puy
Mary (1787m), the Cantal’s long views up towards Violent.
most charismatic peak. Puy Mary, it’s a relaxing 54 p165








164

Eating & Sleeping


hmid-Dec–mid-Nov; pW) The romantic
Orcival 3 ambiance of this turreted 1850 hotel is amply
delivered within its rooms, which have a sharp
4 Hôtel Notre Dame Hotel € modern design and comfortable wrought-iron
(%04 73 65 82 02; www.hotelnotredame-orcival. beds. The best have balconies looking towards
com; s/d/f €48/59/63; hFeb-Dec; W) Expect the mountains. Meanwhile time spent in the spa
an effusive welcome at this delightful family-run (€5) is the perfect balm for calf muscles that
hotel, right in front of Orcival’s mighty basilica. sting from exertion up in the mountains.
Five of its seven clean, comfortable rooms have
glorious views overlooking the basilica. Family
rooms are vast, and each has a kettle, TV and St-Nectaire 6
wi-fi. Generous breakfasts (€9.50) consist B&B €
of local cheeses, homemade jams, plus fresh 4 Villa du Pont Romain
bread and cakes. (%04 73 88 41 62; http://lavilladupontromain.
free.fr; 6 av Alphonse Cellier, St-Nectaire; s/d/q
€40/55/85 incl breakfast; pW) This three-
Col de Guéry 4 room B&B is an excellent bargain, both for the
quality of its spacious lodgings and the effusive
4 Auberge du Lac de Guéry Hotel € welcome from its owners. There is a chalet LOIRE VALLEY & CENTRAL FRANCE 13 VOLCANOES OF THE AuVERGNE
(%04 73 65 02 76; www.auberge-lac-guery. vibe to the nostalgic pictures and antique skis
fr; d €64; hFeb–mid-Oct; pW) In a scenic bedecking the lounge room, which has a pool
position right on the lakeshore, this comfortable table and mini-library, while the rooms are
inn has small, simple rooms and unbeatable wooden floored and wonderfully cosy, with the
access to hiking and fishing. Spare time for largest sleeping four people.
the fine country restaurant (menus €23-45,
summer only). The kindly owner can help
arrange fishing permits. Salers 9
5 La Diligence Auvergnat €
Le Mont-Dore 5 (%04 71 40 75 39; www.ladiligence-salers.com;
rue de Beffroi; mains €15; hnoon-3.30pm &
5 La Golmotte Auvergnat Cuisine €€ 7-10.30pm Tue-Sat late-Mar–Oct) Wear your
(%04 73 65 05 77; www.aubergelagolmotte. loose pants for filling regional cuisine like
com; rte D996; menus €18-39; hnoon-2pm boudin noir (blood sausage), pounti (a prune-
Wed-Sun, 7-9pm Wed-Sat) The excellent regional studded savoury cake) and expertly cooked
cuisine at this mountainside inn is worth the omelettes at this welcoming restaurant in the
3km trek up the main road towards Orcival and centre of Salers.
Murol. Tuck into mouthwatering country pâté 4 Hôtel Saluces Hotel €€
sweetened with onion relish, bream lavished
in tarragon butter, and Auvergnat classics like (%04 71 40 70 82; www.hotel-salers.fr; rue de la
truffade and pounti (a prune-studded savoury Martille; d/tr/q from €78-95/125/150; hmid-
cake). La Golmotte has four simple but snug Dec–mid-Nov; iW) Half a block below the
chambres d’hôte (doubles from €58). square, the delightful Hôtel Saluces offers nine
spacious and individually decorated rooms with
4 Grand Hôtel Hotel € modern amenities, in an ancient stone building
(%04 73 65 02 64; www.hotel-mont-dore.com; with a sunny interior courtyard. There’s an
2 rue Meynadier; s €53-63, d €63-73, q €93-103; adjoining creperie and salon de thé to unwind in.





165

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
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3
4
5
6
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Location Caption details to go here

Medieval
JEAN-PIERRE LESCOURRET / GETTY IMAGES ©
Burgundy 14





Fortified hill towns, medieval monasteries, exquisite Romanesque
capitals and multicoloured tiled roofs share the stage with rolling
vineyards and verdant hiking trails on this idyllic meander.

TRIP HIGHLIGHTS
6 DAYS
Noyers-
sur-Serein 322 km 407KM / 252 MILES
#
# # #
# Abbaye de Fontenay
7
# # mK # # Semur-en- Tranquil end-of-the-road GREAT FOR…
domain of 12th-century
# Auxois Cistercian monks BJ
#
9
# Dijon
BEST TIME TO GO
From May wildflower
# 178 km season through to the
# # #
4
Autun # Beaune October wine harvest.
Burgundy's wine
capital, crowned by ESSENTIAL
kaleidoscopic roof tiles I PHOTO
Vézelay’s sinuous
sweep of stone
#
# # lL Tournus houses crowned by a
# hilltop basilica.
# 1
Vézelay Cluny K BEST FOR
OUTDOORS
A hilltop treasury of Once Christendom's
Romanesque grandest abbey, reduced The riverside walking
architecture to peaceful ruins trails around Noyers-
407 km 0 km sur-Serein.
S Location Caption details to go hereemur-en-Auxois Medieval town on the Armançon River 167

# \
# Pontigny
\
Medieval
14 Burgundy Chablis Tonnerre # \ de Tanlay
\
#
Château
#
\
Noyers-
YONNE sur-Serein
/ ·
A6
Between the Middle Ages and the 15th century, Vermenton PAYS # # 0¸
\ #
8
D956
Burgundy saw a tremendous flowering of Yonne # \ 0 ¸ D'AUXOIS # Massangis
\
D606
ecclesiastical architecture, from Cistercian and / · \ # Dissangis
D32
Benedictine monasteries to Romanesque basilicas, 240 km to #Sermizelles
0 ¸
\
Vézelay
11
coupled with active patronage of the arts by the F G # # D951 # Avallon
‚
\
9
\ #
Vézelay
powerful dukes of Burgundy. This medieval meander m K
shows you all the highlights, while mixing in \ # # L'Huis
\
Raquin
opportunities for wine tasting and for walking in the Bazoches
gorgeous rolling countryside that makes Burgundy # \ Dun-les-
Places
one of France’s most appealing regions. # Corbigny
\
Montsauche- # \
les-Settons
Parc
Naturel Régional
NIÈVRE du Morvan
bordered by the giant Château
TRIP HIGHLIGHT shade trees of the grassy Chinon # \ Haut
1 Cluny Parc Abbatial, are a de- Folin
R
Built between 1088 and lightful place to wander. Les Buteaux # \ Méchet
Get oriented at
1130, the monumental the Musée d’Art et R
Mont
Benedictine Église Ab- d’Archéologie (rue de Beuvray
batiale (Abbey Church; %03 l’Abbatiale; combined ticket \ #
85 59 15 93; www.cluny- with Église Abbatiale adult/child Luzy
abbaye.fr; place du 11 Août €9.50/free; h9.30am-7pm \ #
1944; combined ticket with Jul & Aug, to 6pm Apr-Jun &
Musée d’Art et d’Archéologie Sep, to 5pm Oct-Mar), with
adult/child €9.50/free; its scale model of the
h9.30am-7pm Jul & Aug, to Cluny complex and 3D Loire Arrou x
6pm Apr-Jun & Sep, to 5pm ‘virtual tour’ of the ab-
Oct-Mar) – Christendom’s bey’s original medieval
largest church until the layout, then climb the
construction of St Peter’s Tour des Fromages (rue
in Rome – once held sway Mercière; €2, combined ticket Digoin
\
#
over 1100 monasteries with Église Abbatiale & Musée ALLIER
stretching from Poland
to Portugal. Today you’ll d’Art et d’Archéologie adult/
child €11/1; h9.30am-6.30pm
need a good imagination May-Sep, shorter hours Oct-
to conjure up the abbey’s Apr) for a bird’s-eye view
12th-century glory, but of the abbey’s remains,
its fragmentary remains,
168 LOIRE

\
#
30 km
# e 0 0 15 miles
# \ Les including the striking
Riceys octagonal Clocher de
l’Eau Bénite (Tower of
# Châtillon-sur-Seine
\
# \ the Holy Water) and the
Farinier (Granary), where
HAUTE- eight splendid capitals
Forêt de
Châtillon MARNE from the original church
Abbaye de are displayed.
Fontenay 54 p173
# # Baigneux-
# # 7
\
\
Montbard PAYS \ # les-Juifs The Drive » Head 13km north
0 ¸ # Alesia along the D981 to Cormatin, with
D'AUXOIS
D980
its Renaissance-style château,
\
# # Semur-en- then squiggle 25km east
\ #
6
Auxois CÔTE along the D14 past Chapaize’s
D'OR 11th-century Église St-Martin,
Ozenay’s château and the
# Vitteaux medieval hill town of Brancion
\
Velars- Dijon before descending into Tournus.
# ] #
3
/ · sur-Ouche # #
I
A6
\
#
Pont du # \ p182
# \ Saulieu Pouilly- Pany LOIRE VALLEY & CENTRAL FRANCE 14 MEDIEvAL BURGUNDY
# \ 2 Tournus
en-Auxois Gevrey-
Chambertin # \ Tournus’ superb 10th- to
Morey-St Denis \ #
Vougeot # \ / · 12th-century Benedictine
A31
F G abbey, Abbatiale St-
15
0 ¸ Philibert (www.tournus.fr/le-
D974
0 ¸ Aloxe-Corton # \ site-abbatial-de-saint- philibert;
D980
Auxey- # h8am-6pm), makes a
\ #
4
# Beaune
Curgy Duresses # \ striking first impression,
# \ 0 ¸ Nolay with its austere Roman-
D973
# # \ # esque facade peeking
\ #
5
Autun Doubs out through a medieval
Etang-sur- stone gate flanked by
# \
Arroux
Le Creusot Chalon-
\ # \ # sur-Saône
# Montchanin / · / · LINK
N78
A6
\
YOUR
Sanvignes- SAÔNE- TRIP
les-Mines # \ ET- Saône
LOIRE
b Châteaux of the
\ #
# Tournus
# Loire
2
\ # Three hours west of Vézelay,
0 ¸ Brancion explore the Loire Valley’s
D981
Butte de classic châteaux.
Suin R Pont-
L
R Cluny # # Mont St- # \
\ # 1
# \ Charolles l Romain de-Vaux f Route des Grands
(580m)
# Monziat Crus
\
Bussières # \ Switch gears in Beaune to
# Mâcon discover Burgundy’s best
\
\ #
R Solutré- # Pont-de-Veyle wines.
\
Mont St- Pouilly
Rigaud # Vonnas
\
Chaufailles # \ (1012m)
RHÔNE AIN 169
# \ \ #
\ #

twin rounded towers; its that line surrounding masterpiece Polyptych of
apse holds an extremely streets, especially rue des the Last Judgement.
rare 12th-century floor Forges, rue Verrerie, rue
mosaic of the calendar Vannerie and rue de la 54 p173, p181
and the zodiac, discov- Chouette. The Drive » A super-scenic
ered by chance in 2002. The Drive » Zip 44km south 49km drive along the D973
The medi eval centre also on the A31 to Beaune, or take weaves southwest through
boasts fine restaurants – the slower but much more gorgeous vineyard country,
good for a lunch stop. scenic Route des Grands Crus climbing past La Rochepot’s
striking 13th-century castle
(p175) through the Côte de
The Drive » From Tournus, Nuits vineyards. before turning west to Autun.
zip 96km straight up the A6 and
A31 to Dijon.
TRIP HIGHLIGHT 5 Autun
3 Dijon 4 Beaune Two millennia ago, Autun
(Augustodunum) was one
Long-time capital of Burgundy’s prosperous of Roman Gaul’s most
and supremely appeal-
medi eval Burgundy, Dijon ing viticultural capital, important cities. Its next
was the seat of power for Beaune, is surrounded heyday came 1100 years
a series of enlightened by vineyards producing later, when Cathédrale
dukes who presided over an impressive array of St-Lazare (place du Terreau;
the region’s 14th- and appellations including hcathedral 8am-7pm Sep-Jun,
15th-century golden age, Côte de Nuits and Côte plus 9-11pm Jul & Aug, chapter
filling the city with fine de Beaune. Sipping local room summer only) was
art and architecture, and vintages at sunset on a built to house St Lazarus’
a wonderful medieval cafe terrace here is one of sacred relics. Climb
centre, best explored on France’s great pleasures. through the old city’s nar-
foot (p182). The architectural row cobblestone streets to
Topping the list of jewel of Beaune’s historic see the cathedral’s fantas-
must-see attractions are centre is the Hôtel-Dieu tical Romanesque capitals
LOIRE VALLEY & CENTRAL FRANCE 14 MEDIEvAL BURGUNDY
the 13th-century Église des Hospices de Beaune and famous 12th-century
Notre Dame (place Notre- (%03 80 24 45 00; www. tympanum depicting the
Dame; h8am-7pm) with hospices-de-beaune.com; rue Last Judgement, carved
its remarkable facade by Burgundy’s master
of pencil- thin columns de l’Hôtel-Dieu; adult/child sculptor Gislebertus.
€7.50/3; h9am-6.30pm
and leering gargoyles; Across the street, the
the Palais des Ducs et mid-Mar–mid-Nov, 9-11.30am & Musée Rolin (%03 85 52
2-5.30pm mid-Nov–mid-Mar),
des États de Bourgogne a 15th-century charity 09 76; 3 rue des Bancs; adult/
(Palace of the Dukes & States of hospital topped by stun- child €6/free; h9.30am-noon
Burgundy; place de la Libéra- ning turrets and pitched & 1.30-6pm Wed-Mon Apr-Sep,
tion), the Burgundy dukes’ rooftops covered in multi- shorter hours Mar, Oct & Nov,
monumental palace, coloured tiles. Interior closed Dec-Feb) houses
which also houses Dijon’s highlights include the Gislebertus’ precociously
superb art museum, the barrel-vaulted Grande sensual masterpiece,
Musée des Beaux-Arts Salle with its dragon- the Temptation of Eve,
(%03 80 74 52 09; http://mba. embellished beams; an alongside Gallo-Roman
dijon.fr; 1 rue Rameau; audio- 18th-century pharmacy artefacts and modern
guide €4, tours €6; h9.30am- lined with ancient flasks; paintings.
6pm May-Oct, 10am-5pm and the multipanelled Roman treasures
Nov-Apr, closed Tue year-round); 15th-century Flemish around town include
and the historic mansions the town gates Porte


170

JENIFOTO / GETTY IMAGES ©
























Semur-en-Auxois Old town houses and towers
d’Arroux and Porte St- atop Semur’s medieval
André, the 16,000-seat 6 Semur-en-Auxois battlements. Be sure to
Théâtre Romain, the Perched on a granite spur, stop in at historic Pâtis-
Temple de Janus and surrounded by a hairpin serie Alexandre (%03
the Pierre de Couhard, a turn in the Armançon 80 97 08 94; rue de la Liberté;
27m-high remnant of a River and guarded by four h7.30am-7pm Tue-Fri, 7am-
Gallo-Roman pyramid. massive pink-granite bas- 1pm & 2-7pm Sat, to 1pm Sun)
Autun is an excellent tions, Semur- en-Auxois for some granit rose de
base for exploring nearby was once an important l’auxois (a local pink con-
Parc Naturel Régional du religious centre boasting fection laden with sugar,
Morvan (www.parcdumorvan no fewer than six orange-infused chocolate,
.org); the park’s website of- monasteries. cherries, almonds and
fers downloadable hiking, Pass through the two hazelnuts).
biking and equestrian concentric medieval Semur is especially
itineraries. atmospheric at night,
gates, Porte Sauvigne
The Drive » The D980 and Porte Guillier, onto when the ramparts are
runs 70km north from Autun pedestrianised rue Buf- illuminated, and around
to Semur-en-Auxois; halfway fon; then meander west Pentecost, when the
along, there’s a fine collection through the old town to Fêtes Médiévales du Roi
of Romanesque capitals at Promenade du Rempart Chaussé fill the streets
Saulieu’s 12th-century Basilique for panoramic views from with medieval-themed
de St-Andoche. parades and markets.


171

The Drive » Follow the D980 take the westbound D956 21km
20km north into Montbard, into Noyers. TRIP HIGHLIGHT
then hop 2km east on the 9 vézelay
D905 before joining the sleepy
northbound D32 for the idyllic 8 Noyers-sur-Serein Rising from lush rolling
3km home stretch into Fontenay. Tucked into a sharp countryside and crowned
bend in the Serein River, by a venerable medieval
basilica, Vézelay is one of
TRIP HIGHLIGHT picturesque medieval France’s loveliest hilltop
7 Abbaye de Noyers is surrounded villages. Founded in the
by pastureland and
Fontenay wooded hills. The town’s 9th century on a former
Founded in 1118 and cobbled streets, accessed Roman and then Carolin-
gian site, the magnificent
restored to its medieval via two imposing stone Basilique Ste-Madeleine
glory a century ago, the gateways, lead past 15th- (www.basiliquedevezelay.org;
Unesco-listed Abbaye de and 16th-century gabled h7am-8pm) gained early
Fontenay (Fontenay Abbey; houses, wood and stone fame as a starting point
%03 80 92 15 00; www.abbaye archways and several art for the Santiago de Com-
defontenay.com; adult/child galleries. postela pilgrimage route.
self-guided tour €10/7, guided Noyers is a superb base Among its treasures are
tour €12.50/7.90; h10am-6pm for walking. Just outside a 12th-century tympa-
Easter–mid-Nov, 10am-noon & the clock-topped south- num, with a carving of an
2-5pm mid-Nov–Easter) offers ern gate, Chemin des enthroned Jesus radiating
a glimpse of the austere, Fossés threads its way his holy spirit to the
serene surroundings in between the Serein and Apostles; several beauti-
which Cistercian monks the village’s 13th-century fully carved Romanesque
lived lives of contempla- fortifications, 19 of whose capitals, including the
tion, prayer and manual original 23 towers still re- Mystical Mill, which de-
labour. Set in a bucolic main. Continue along the picts Moses grinding grain
wooded valley, the abbey Serein’s right bank, join- into a flour sack held by
includes an unadorned ing Balade du Château St Paul; and a mid-12th-
LOIRE VALLEY & CENTRAL FRANCE 14 MEDIEvAL BURGUNDY
Romanesque church, a and climbing past Noyer’s century crypt reputed to
barrel-vaulted monks’ utterly ruined château house one of Mary Magda-
dormitory, landscaped to a series of belvederes lene’s bones. Concerts of
gardens and Europe’s first with dreamy views over sacred music are held here
metallurgical factory, the town and the sur- June to September.
with a remarkable water- rounding countryside. The park behind the
driven forge from 1220. In summer, the basilica affords wonderful
From the parking lot, Rencontres Musicales de views and walking access
the GR213 trail forms Noyers (www.musicalesde to the verdant Vallée de
part of two verdant walk- noyers.com) brings clas- Cure. From Porte Neuve,
ing circuits: one to Mont- sical concerts and jazz Vézelay’s old town gate, a
bard (13km return), the sessions to town. footpath descends via the
other (11.5km) through 12th-century chapel of
Touillon and Le Petit The Drive » Snake 14km La Cordelle to the village
southward through the peaceful
Jailly. Maps and botanical Serein valley via the D86, then of Asquins. Another nice
field guides are available head 11km west on the D11 from walk is the Promenade
in the abbey shop. Dissangis to Joux-la-Ville before des Fossés, which
charting a southwest course circum navigates Vézelay’s
The Drive » Backtrack to
the D905, follow it 14km west- down the D32, D9, D606 and medieval ramparts.
D951 for the final 24km run into
northwest to Rougemont, then
Vézelay. 54 p173
172

Eating & Sleeping


convivial experience at the long shared table
Cluny 1 backed by well-stocked wine racks.
5 La Table d’Héloïse Burgundian €€ 4 Abbaye de Historic Hotel €€€
Maizières
(%03 85 59 05 65; www.hostelleriedheloise.
com/restaurant-cluny; 7 rue de Mâcon; lunch (%03 80 24 74 64; www.
menu €20, dinner menus €27-52; h12.15- hotelabbayedemaizieres.com; 19 rue Maizières;
1.45pm Fri-Tue, 7.30pm-8.45pm Mon, Tue d €180-245, ste €290-410; aiW) This
& Thu-Sat) South of town, this family-run character-laden four-star establishment inside
restaurant with a charmingly cosy, newly a 12th-century abbey oozes history, yet all 12
remodeled interior is a terrific place to sample rooms have been luxuriously modernised. Some
firmly traditional Burgundian specialities, rooms boast Cistercian stained-glass windows
from the dexterously prepared fricassée and exposed beams; those on the top floor offer
d’escargots (snail stew) to the tender Charolais views over Beaune’s famed multicolour tile
rumpsteak to the ripe Époisses cheese and the roofs. There’s no lift, but the friendly staff will
devastatingly delicious homemade desserts. help haul your luggage upstairs.
Book ahead for a table in the light-filled LOIRE VALLEY & CENTRAL FRANCE 14 MEDIEvAL BURGUNDY
verandah overlooking the Grosne river.
vézelay 8
4 Le Clos de l’Abbaye B&B €
(%03 85 59 22 06; www.closdelabbaye.fr; 6 5 À la Fortune du Pot Burgundian €
place du Marché; s/d €65/70, q €105-120; W) (%03 86 33 32 56; www.fortunedupot.com;
At this handsome old house directly adjoining 6 place du Champ du Foire; menus €18.50-24;
the abbey, the three spacious, comfortable and hnoon-2pm & 7-9pm) Well-placed in the
stylishly decorated bedrooms and two family- square at the foot of Vézelay’s main street, this
friendly suites are flanked by a lovely garden French-Colombian-run restaurant with English
with facilities for kids. Friendly, energetic iPad menus is at its best in sunny weather,
owners Claire and Pascal are excellent tour when tables spill out onto the terrace. Build
advisers who direct guests to little-known your own two- to three-course menu featuring
treasures. There’s a wonderful Saturday Burgundian classics such as escargots, tarte
morning market just outside the front door. à l’Époisses (Époisses cheese tart) and bœuf
bourguignon.
4 Cabalus Guesthouse €
Beaune 4
(%03 86 33 20 66; www.cabalus.com; rue St-
5 Caves Madeleine French €€ Pierre; r €42-62, breakfast €10) An atmospheric
(%03 80 22 93 30; 8 rue du Faubourg Madeleine; place to stay, Cabalus has four spacious rooms
mains €19-27; hnoon-1.30pm & 7.15-9.45pm in a 12th-century building right next to the
Mon, Tue & Thu-Sat) Focusing on fresh-from- cathedral. They’re sparsely decorated but come
the-farm meat and vegetables produced within with sturdy beams, ancient tiles and stone
a 100km radius of Beaune, this cosy little walls. Note that the cheaper rooms have shared
restaurant changes its menu daily. Reserve toilets. Organic breakfasts (€9) are served at
ahead for a private table, or enjoy a more the cafe downstairs.









173

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Location Caption details to go here

#

JEFF PACHOUD / GETTY IMAGES ©
Route des


Grands Crus 15





The picture-book Route des Grands Crus laces together Burgundy’s
most reputed vineyards. And, yes, opportunities abound for
pleasurable wine tasting in historic surrounds.

TRIP HIGHLIGHTS

l L 2 DAYS
62KM / 38 MILES
# Gevrey-
7 km Chambertin GREAT FOR…
Château du Clos de
# # #
Vougeot # HB
2
A magnificent
wine-growing estate
# Nuits-St-
Georges BEST TIME TO GO
29 km
May, June, September
Beaune and October for a
The opulent capital of
Burgundian wines symphony of colour
and quiet roads.
# ESSENTIAL
# # #
5
# # #
# # Pommard I PHOTO
8
# 7 # # # 39 km The hallucinogenic
Château de views from the cliffs
La Rochepot # # Puligny- Château de above St-Romain.
m K Wine tasting in a
Meursault
Montrachet
grandiose setting BEST FOR
K
St-Romain FOODIES
Sensational views and Beaune is a great place
a bucolic atmosphere to try Burgundian
45 km specialities such as
snails.
Bur 175
Location Caption details to go heregundy Côte d’Or vineyards

Chambertin
15 Route des 1 Gevrey-
Grands Crus
Kick-start your epicurean
adventure by visiting
this picturesque village,
which enjoys a world-
Swinging from Gevrey-Chambertin to Puligny- class reputation among
Montrachet, this route is like a ‘greatest hits’ of wine enthusiasts – it pro-
duces nine out of the 32
Burgundy, with its bucolic views, patchwork of Grands Crus wines from
immaculate hand-groomed vines, atmospheric Burgundy. All are reds
made from pinot noir.
wine cellars and attractive stone villages. If The Drive » From Gevrey-
you’re looking for an upscale wine château Chambertin it’s a relaxed drive
experience, you’ve come to the right place. Now along the D122 to Château du
Clos de Vougeot, 7km south via
is your chance to sample some of the most Morey-St-Denis and Chambolle-
Musigny.
prestigious reds and whites in the world.
R # \



Fixin
D104
# 1
Chambertin
Châteauneuf 0 ¸ l L # # \ Gevrey-
# \ # \ CÔTE D'OR 0 ¸
D996
La-Bussière- Canal de Bourgogne
sur-Ouche Chambolle- # \ Morey St-Denis
Musigny
# \
/ · L'Etang Vergy # \ Château du# # \ Gilly-lès-Cîteaux
#
2
A6
Clos de Vougeot
# \ # \ St- Bernard
Vosne-Romanée
/ ·
D25
#
3
St-Georges
# \ Bouilland # Nuits-
Bligny- 0 ¸ # \
D974
sur-Ouche Villers-la-Faye St Nicolas-
# \ # \ # \ lès-Cîteaux
Magny-lès-Villers # \ Corgoloin
/ · Pernand-Vergelesses # \ / ·
D33
D35
Savigny- # Aloxe-Corton
4
#
/ · les-Beaune # \ 0 ¸ / ·
N6
D974
A36
Château de # Beaune
5
#
Pommard
St-Romain #
#
6
0 ¸
# Volnay # \
#
8
Orches D973
A6
# \ # \ / ·
Baubigny Auxey- # Château de Meursault
# 7
Duresses
Château de
F G La Rochepot 9 # \ St-Aubin 0 ¸
D974
14
0 ¸ Nolay # \ # # \ # m K FG Saône
#
14
/ ·
10
#
D973
D33
Chassagne- # \ Puligny- 76 km to
0 ¸
Montrachet Montrachet ‚ F G # e 0 0 5 miles 10 km
19
# \ Chagny
D113a

ings of enormous wine Corton is a real charmer.
TRIP HIGHLIGHT presses and casks. It’s great for wine-lovers,
2 Château du Clos The Drive » Pick up the D974 with producers hand-
de Vougeot to Nuits-St-Georges, 4.5km ily scattered around the
village. A good start-
An essential stop on the south via Vosne-Romanée. ing point is Domaines
Route des Grands Crus, d’Aloxe-Corton (%03 80
the magnificent wine- 3 Nuits-St-Georges 26 49 85; place du Chapitre;
producing Château du h10am-1pm & 3-7pm Thu-Mon
Clos de Vougeot (%03 80 It’s worth spending a little Apr–mid-Nov), a polished
62 86 09; www.closde time in attractive Nuits- wine shop representing
vougeot.fr; Vougeot; adult/child St-Georges. Splashed several makers of the
€7.50/2.50; h9am-6.30pm around town are a dozen terrific Aloxe-Corton
Sun-Fri & to 5pm Sat Apr-Oct, domaines selling superb appellation (delectable
10am-5pm Nov-Mar) is re- reds and whites, but an reds and whites).
garded as the birthplace essential port of call on No visit to Aloxe-
of Burgundian wines. any wine-tasting itinerary Corton would be complete
Originally the property is L’Imaginarium (%03 80 without visiting the high-
of the Abbaye de Cîteaux, 62 61 40; www.imaginarium-bour flying Château Corton-
12km southeast from gogne.com; av du Jura; adult incl André (%03 80 26 28 79;
here, the 16th-century basic/grand cru tasting €9/17, www.pierre-andre.com; rue LOIRE VALLEY & CENTRAL FRANCE 15 ROuTE DES GRANDS CRuS
country castle served as child €6; h2-7pm Mon, 10am- Cortons; h10am-1pm & 2.30-
a getaway for the monks, 7pm Tue-Sun). This gleaming 6pm). With its splendid
who stored equipment modern museum is a cellars and tiled roofs, it’s
and produced wines here great place to learn about a wonderful place for a
for several centuries. Burgundy wines and tasting session in atmos-
Tours uncover the work- winemaking techniques. pheric surrounds.
It’s fun and entertaining,
with movies, exhibits and 4 p181
interactive displays.
Architecture buffs The Drive » Pick up the busy
LINK should take a look at the N74 to Beaune, 5.5km due south.
YOUR appealing 17th-century
TRIP belfry of the former town TRIP HIGHLIGHT
hall and the Romanesque 5 Beaune
e Medieval Église St-Symphorien, Beaune’s raison d’être
Burgundy
It’s easy to combine this slightly away from the and the source of its joie
town centre.
trip with our itinerary de vivre is wine: making
focusing on medieval The Drive » Continue along it, tasting it, selling it, but
Burgundy, either from the D974 towards Beaune. After most of all, drinking it.
passing through the village of
Beaune or La Rochepot. Consequently Beaune is
Ladoix-Serrigny, look out for the one of the best places in
sign to Château Corton-André
j Beaujolais on the right. It’s a 10-minute France for wine-tasting.
Villages
The amoeba-shaped old
drive from Nuits-St-Georges
In the mood for more (11.5km) to Aloxe-Corton. city is enclosed by thick
full-bodied wines? stone ramparts, which
Motor 1¼ hours south to are lined with overgrown
Villefranche-sur-Saône 4 Aloxe-Corton gardens and ringed by a
and make your way up to Surrounded by manicured pathway that makes for
Roche de Solutré. vineyards, tiny Aloxe- a lovely stroll. The most
striking attraction of
177

CHARLES O’REAR/CORBIS/VCG / GETTY IMAGES ©





















Beaune’s old city is the (small silver tasting cup). 80 22 12 59; www.chateaude
magnificent Hôtel-Dieu Another venerable winery pommard.com; 15 rue Marey
LOIRE VALLEY & CENTRAL FRANCE 15 ROuTE DES GRANDS CRuS
des Hospices de Beaune. is Bouchard Père & Fils Monge, Pommard; guided tours
Underneath Beaune’s (%03 80 24 80 45; www. incl 4-wine tasting adult/child
buildings, streets and bouchard-pereetfils.com; 15 rue €25/free; h9.30am-6.30pm
ramparts, millions of du Château; tours €25; h10am- Mar-Nov, to 5.30pm Dec-Feb) is
dusty bottles of wine are 12.30pm & 2.30-6.30pm Tue-Sat the ultimate Burgundian
being aged to perfection year-round, plus 10am-12.30pm pilgrimage. The impres-
in cool, dark cellars. Stop Sun Apr-Dec), housed in a sive cellars contain many
in at Patriarche Père medieval fortress. vintage bottles.
et Fils (%03 80 24 53 01; The Drive » Follow signs to
www.patriarche.com; 7 rue du 54 p173, p181 Meursault (5km), via Volnay.
Collège; audioguide tour €17; The Drive » Take the D974 Château de Meursault is
h9.30-11.30am & 2-5.30pm), (direction Autun), then the D973 signposted in the centre of the
Burgundy’s largest cellars, to Pommard (5.5km). village.
where 5km of corridors
are lined with about five
million bottles, the oldest 6 Château de TRIP HIGHLIGHT
a Beaune Villages AOC Pommard 7 Château de
from 1904! Sample 13 For many red-wine-lovers, Meursault
wines along the way and a visit to the superb Châ- One of the most elegant
take home the tastevin teau de Pommard (%03 of the Route des Grands

178

St-Romain Oak wine barrels being made for Burgundy vineyards
Crus châteaux, Château Auxey-Duresses). Leaving The Drive » Pass through
de Meursault (%03 80 26 Auxey-Duresses, take the D17E St-Romain and follow the D17
22 75; www.chateau-meursault. to Auxey-le-Petit and St-Romain towards Ivry en Montagne, then
com; 5 rue du Moulin Foulot, (6.5km from Meursault). turn left onto the D17 (direction
Meursault; admission incl Orches, Baubigny, Falaises). It’s
7-wine tasting €21; h10am- TRIP HIGHLIGHT a lovely drive with scenic vistas
until you reach Baubigny. In
noon & 2-6pm Oct-Apr, 8 St-Romain Baubigny take the D111D to La
10am-6.30pm May-Sep) has Rochepot. It’s an 8km drive from
beautiful grounds and Off-the-beaten-path St- St-Romain.
produces prestigious Romain is a bucolic vil-
white wines. Guided lage situated right where
tours visit the estate’s vineyards meet pasture- 9 Château de La
labyrinth of underground land, forests and cliffs. Rochepot
caves (cellars), the old- For drop-dead views
est dating to the 12th over the village and the With its conical towers
century. valley, drive up to the and multicoloured tile
panoramic viewpoint roofs rising from thick
The Drive » From the centre (it’s signposted), which is woods above the ancient
of Meursault, follow signs to perched atop a cliff near village of La Rochepot,
Auxey-Duresses and Nolay the ruins of a castle. the Château de La Roche-
(D23), then signs to Auxey- pot (%03 80 20 04 00; www.
Duresses and St-Romain (D17E). 54 p181
Then take the D973 (direction larochepot.com; La Rochepot;

179

BURGUNDY WINE BASICS

Burgundy’s epic vineyards extend approximately 258km from Chablis in the north
to the Rhône’s Beaujolais in the south and comprise 100 Appellations d’Origine
Contrôlée (AOC). Each region has its own appellations and traits, embodied by a
concept called terroir – the earth itself imbuing its produce, such as grapes, with
unique qualities.
Here’s an ever-so-brief survey of some of Burgundy’s major growing regions:
Côte d’Or vineyards The northern section, the Côte de Nuits, stretches from
Marsannay-la-Côte (near Dijon) south to Corgoloin and produces reds known for
their robust, full-bodied character. The southern section, the Côte de Beaune, lies
between Ladoix-Serrigny and Santenay and produces great reds and great whites.
Appellations from the area’s hilltops are the Hautes-Côtes de Nuits and Hautes-
Côtes de Beaune.
Chablis & Grand Auxerrois Four renowned chardonnay white-wine appellations
from 20 villages around Chablis. Part of the Auxerrois vineyards, Irancy produces
excellent pinot-noir reds.
Châtillonnais Approximately 20 villages around Châtillon-sur-Seine producing red
and white wines.
Côte Chalonnaise The southernmost continuation of the Côte de Beaune’s slopes
is noted for its excellent reds and whites.
Mâconnais Known for rich or fruity white wines, such as the Pouilly-Fuissé
chardonnay.

Want to know more? Take a class!
École des Vins de Bourgogne (%03 80 26 35 10; www.ecoledesvins-bourgogne.com; 6 rue
du 16e Chasseurs) Offers a variety of courses.
Sensation Vin (%03 80 22 17 57; www.sensation-vin.com; 1 rue d’Enfer; h10am-7pm) Offers
LOIRE VALLEY & CENTRAL FRANCE 15 ROuTE DES GRANDS CRuS
introductory tasting sessions (no appointment needed) as well as tailor-made
courses.

adult/child €8/6; h10am- D113A to Puligny-Montrachet. It’s Montrachet (%03 80 21 96
5.30pm Wed-Mon Easter-Nov) a 10km trip from La Rochepot. 78; www.caveau-puligny.com;
is a dream come true for 1 rue de Poiseul; h9.30am-
photographers and histo- 7pm Easter-Oct, 10am-noon
ry buffs. This marvellous a Puligny- & 3-6pm Tue-Sun rest of year)
medieval fortress offers Montrachet you can sample various
fab views of surrounding Puligny-Montrachet local wines in a comfort-
countryside. makes a grand finale able and relaxed setting.
The Drive » Follow the D973 to your trip. Beloved of This wine-bar–cellar is
(direction Nolay); after 200m white-wine aficionados run by the knowledgea-
turn hard left onto the D33 (no reds in sight), this bi- ble Julien Wallerand and
that plunges down to St-Aubin. jou appellation is revered Emilien Masuyer, who
In St-Aubin turn left onto the thanks to five extraor- provide excellent advice
D906 (direction Chagny), and dinary Grands Crus. At (in decent English).
eventually left again onto the
the Caveau de Puligny-
54 p181

180

Eating & Sleeping




Aloxe-Corton 4 St-Romain 8
4 Villa Louise 5 Les Roches Burgundian €€
Hôtel Hotel €€ (%03 80 21 21 63; www.les-roches.fr; Bas
(%03 80 26 46 70; www.hotel-villa-louise. Village; menus €29; hnoon-1.30pm & 7-8.30pm
fr; 9 rue Franche; d €98-225, breakfast €16; Thu-Mon) In the heart of the village, this sweet
piWs) In the pretty village of Aloxe- little spot with a pleasant outdoor setting
Corton, this tranquil mansion houses elegant, serves farm-fresh fare and well-executed
modern rooms, each of them dreamily different. Burgundian specialities, including snails and
The expansive garden stretches straight to the bœuf bourguignon.
edge of the vineyard and a separate gazebo 4 Domaine Corgette Rental House €€
shelters the sauna and pool. Genteel Louise
Perrin presides, and has a private cave, perfect (%03 80 21 68 08; www.domainecorgette.com;
for wine tastings. 14 rue de la Perrière; d or q €150; pW) Tucked
in the centre of the quiet village of St-Romain,
this renovated winery has five light and airy
Beaune 5 rooms with crisp linen and classic touches like LOIRE VALLEY & CENTRAL FRANCE 15 ROuTE DES GRANDS CRuS
ornamental fireplaces and wood floors. Guests
5 Loiseau share access to a kitchen, a comfortable sitting
des Vignes Gastronomy €€€ area and a sun-drenched terrace. The rate is
(%03 80 24 12 06; www.bernard-loiseau.com; identical for two to four people, and there’s a
31 rue Maufoux; lunch menus €23-29, dinner three-night minimum stay.
menus €59-99; hnoon-2pm & 7-10pm Tue-Sat)
For an upscale meal with your significant other,
this Michelin-starred culinary shrine is the place Puligny-Montrachet a
to go. Expect exquisite concoctions ranging 5 La Table
from caramelised pigeon to quenelles de sandre d’Olivier Leflaive Bistro €€€
(pike-fish dumplings). At lunchtime even the
most budget-conscious can indulge thanks to (%03 80 21 37 65; www.olivier-leflaive.com; 10
bargain-priced midday menus. In summer, the place du Monument; mains €24-26, dégustation
verdant garden is a plus. menus €60-75; h12.30-2pm & 7.30-9pm Mon-Sat
early Feb–mid-Dec) This is the address in Puligny-
4 Abbaye Montrachet. The trademark four-course ‘Repas
de Maizières Historic Hotel €€€ Dégustation’ (tasting menu) combines seasonal
(%03 80 24 74 64; www.hotelabbayede French classics with global flavours, and comes
maizieres.com; 19 rue Maizières; d €180-245, paired with six to nine wines served in 6cl glasses.
ste €290-410; aiW) This character-laden 4 La Maison
four-star establishment inside a 12th-century d’Olivier Leflaive Boutique Hotel €€€
abbey oozes history, yet all 12 rooms have been
luxuriously modernised. Some rooms boast (%03 80 21 37 65; www.olivier-leflaive.com; place
Cistercian stained-glass windows and exposed du Monument; d €175-245; hclosed Christmas-
beams; those on the top floor offer views over early Feb; paiW) Occupying a tastefully
Beaune’s famed multicolour tile roofs. There’s renovated 17th-century village house in the heart
no lift, but the friendly staff will help haul your of Puligny-Montrachet, this 13-room venture
luggage upstairs. delivers top service and classy comfort. Best of
all, it offers personalised wine tours and tastings,
and an acclaimed restaurant right downstairs.




181

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Place de la Libération
Dijon’s magnificent central square, dat-
ing from 1686, serves up picture-postcard
views of the Palais des Ducs et des États
STRETCH de Bourgogne (place de la Libération) – the
monumental palace that served as home
YOUR LEGS to Burgundy’s powerful dukes during
Dijon’s 14th- and 15th-century heyday as
a European artistic and cultural capital.
DIJON The Walk » Head briefly west on rue Rameau,
then turn right under the arches of the ducal
palace to reach the tourist office, starting point for
climbing Tour Philippe Le Bon.
Tour Philippe Le Bon
For dizzying perspectives over the
Start/Finish Place de la old city’s narrow streets and gracious
Libération squares, climb the winding steps up
this 46m-high mid-15th-century tower
(place de la Libération; adult/child €3/free;
Distance 1.5km htours every 45min 10.30am-noon & 1.45-
5.30pm daily Apr–mid-Nov, hourly 2-4pm Tue,
Duration 3 hours 11am-4pm Sat & Sun mid-Nov–Mar). On clear
days, views from the terrace up top ex-
tend all the way to Mont Blanc. Reserve
tours at the tourist office (www.visitdijon.
Discover the legacy of the Dukes com; 11 rue des Forges; h9.30am-6.30pm
of Burgundy on this easy stroll Mon-Sat, 10am-6pm Sun Apr-Sep, 9.30am-1pm &
2-6pm Mon-Sat, 10am-4pm Sun Oct-Mar).
through Dijon’s historic centre,
taking in the city’s grand old ducal The Walk » Go west along rue des Forges,
admiring the attractive old hôtels particuliers
palace, half-timbered houses and (private mansions) at No 34, 38 and 40. Turn two
blocks north on rue Odebert to place des Halles.
bustling market, with an optional Les Halles
midday break at one of Dijon’s finest Dijon’s covered market (rue Quentin;
restaurants. h8am-1pm Tue & Thu-Sat) buzzes with life
when vendors hawk fruit, veggies, fish,
meat, Dijon mustard and fine Bur-
gundian cheeses such as Époisses and
Chaource. Surrounding the square are
restaurants, bars and cafes, perfect for a
people-watching break.
The Walk » Duck into teeny impasse Quentin
opposite the market’s southeastern corner and
follow its rightward bend towards rue Musette.
A left turn here brings you face to face with the
gargoyles of Église Notre Dame.
Take this walk on Trip
Église Notre Dame
e Built between 1220 and 1240, Dijon’s
most extraordinary church (place Notre-

182

Les
R Odebert # Impasse Quentin R de la Préfecture R Verrerie R Auguste Comte
Halles

Pl Grangier R Chaudronnerie
#
R des Godrans R Musette Église # R de la Maison des
Chouette
Cariatides
#
Notre
R des Forges
00000000 # Dame Bourgogne R Lamonnoye R Jeannin
Pl des
00000000
00000000
Ducs de
00000000
00000000
00000000
00000000
Tourist
00000000
R de la Liberté
Office
Musée des
& K
Beaux-Arts
00000000000 #
00000000000
w 00000000000
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& L
00000000000
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R du Bourg R Jules Mercier Place de la Libération R Rameau Théâtre R Vaillant
00000000000
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#
00000000000
Pl du
00000000000 R
00000000000
w
00000000000
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R Vauban
# e 0 0 0.05 miles 00000000000des Bons Enfants
100 m
Dame; h8am-7pm) sports a three-tiered starred restaurant (www.lamaisondescariati
facade lined with leering gargoyles des.fr; 28 rue Chaudronnerie; lunch menu €21-27;
separated by two rows of pencil-thin hnoon-2pm & 7-10pm Tue-Sat), with exposed
columns. Atop the church, the 14th- beams and stone walls forming an im-
century Horloge à Jacquemart, trans- pressive backdrop for delicious French
ported from Flanders in 1383 by Philip and regional cuisine. It’s best at midday,
the Bold, chimes every quarter-hour. thanks to bargain-priced lunch menus
and pleasant terrace seating out back.
The Walk » Exiting the church, turn right and
immediately right again onto rue de la Chouette. The Walk » Loop back towards Place de la
Rue de la Chouette Libération, following rue Lamonnoye and rue
Rameau to the courtyard of the Palais des Ducs,
This street is named after the small entry point to Dijon’s art museum.
stone chouette (owl) carved into the Musée des Beaux-Arts
exterior corner of the chapel diagonally
across from No 24. Said to grant happi- These sprawling galleries (http://mba.dijon.
ness and wisdom to those who stroke it, fr; 1 rue Rameau; tours €6; h9.30am-6pm Wed-
it has been worn smooth by generations Mon May-Oct, 10am-5pm Wed-Mon Nov-Apr) con-
of fortune-seekers; try it for yourself! stitute one of France’s most outstanding
museums. Don’t miss wood-panelled
The Walk » One block beyond the back of Salle des Gardes, housing ornate, carved
the church, turn left onto rue Verrerie, passing late-medieval sepulchres of dukes John
a picturesque series of half-timbered medieval
houses before turning right on rue Chaudronnerie. the Fearless and Philip the Bold. Other
sections focus on Egyptian art and six
Maison des Cariatides centuries of European painting.
Its facade a riot of stone caryatids, sol- The Walk » Loop back to Place de la Libération
diers and vines, this early-17th-century along rue Rameau.
mansion houses a delightful Michelin-
183

184

Alps, Jura


& Rhône



Valley











FROM THE RHÔNE RIVER TO EUROPE’S
HIGHEST MOUNTAIN, eastern France is
a crazy quilt of inspirational landscapes,
atmospheric cities and bucolic villages.

Our itineraries head in all directions from Lyon.
To the northwest, narrow roads snake through
the vine-covered Beaujolais, one of France’s
most underrated wine-growing areas; to the
south, the Rhône flows through increasingly
sunny country past Gallo-Roman ruins,
medieval hilltop fortresses and precipitous
gorges. East lie the mountains: the Jura, land
of Comté and vin jaune; the Vercors’ poppy-
strewn plateaux and limestone peaks; Haute-
Provence’s lavender fields and multihued
canyons; and, towering high above, the
spellbinding Alps and hulking Mont Blanc.

Jura Cross-country skiing 185
LINE PRISMA BILDAGENTUR AG / ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©

# e 0 0 # \ 50 miles 100 km
Alps, Jura Besançon

& Rhône 0 ¸ # # \ Biel
]
D673
Valley / · # \ Dole Morteau # \ Neuchâtel
A36
# \
F G # _ BERN
16
Lac de
# Arbois Neuchâtel # \ Fribourg
\
# \
/ · # \ Chalon- Thun
N81
sur-Saône
# \ / · Lons-le- \ # Parc Naturel S W I T Z E R L A N D
A6
Sanvignes-les-Mines Saunier Régional du Lausanne
]
Tournus # \ / · Haut-Jura # \ Les Rousses # Lake Geneva
(Lac Léman)
A39
# \ Digoin # \
Loire
/ · Lavans-lès- # \ Évian-
N79
# Mâcon St-Claude les-Bains Rhône
\
# ] Geneva
444444
4
\
Beaujeu # \ # Martigny
F G 444444 444444444
Chamonix-
19
Ambérieu-en-Bugey St-Gervais Mont-Blanc
# \ Annecy les Bains # ]
44
44
4444
44444444444444444444
Anse \ # # \ \ #
A42
# \ / · Mont Courmayeur
44444 0¸
#
Tarare 0 ¸ 4 Blanc ] # ^ Aosta # \
D1508
Parc Naturel /· # Lyon (4810m) SS26
^
A72
# ] Parc Régional du
4
44444444
44444444444444444
Régional du Massif des Bauges F G Parco
17
Livradois-Forez # Bourgoin- 444 Nazionale del
# \ ] Jallieu # \ Chambéry Moûtiers Gran Paradiso
St-Étienne 0¸ / · Val d'Isère
# Ambert 444444 \
\
\
#
4 4 #
4444444444444444444
44444444
4 4 4 4
N6
D1086
# \ # \ Parc Parc National
de la Vanoise
F G Régional de Isère St-Michel de
20
Chartreuse
Maurienne
4 4 444
4 4
# \ Susa
# Grenoble # \
]
# \
Bardonecchia
Yssingeaux \ # # \ # \ Lans-en- 4 444
Rhône
/ · Parc Naturel Vercors 0 ¸ #Sestriere
]
D1091
D15
Régional du 0 ¸ #
]
A480
Valence # # \ Vercors Briançon # \ Pinerolo
]
/ · Chabeuil Parc # \St-Véran
A7
National

Privas \ # des Écrins Parc Naturel
# \ Die Regional du Saluzzo # \
Queyras
Montélimar # Gap / · I T A L Y
N94
\
# \
Vallon- Grignan Le Sauze Cuneo #
]
Pont-d'Arc # \ Serres # \ \ #
# \ # Valreas Réserve
\
Parc Naturel F G Géologique de
18
Régional des Haute-Provence # \
Grands Causses ] # \ Sisteron St Etienne-
/ · la-Tinée
#
A7
# Orange Château-Arnoux Parco Naturale
]
# Alès Rhône # \ St-Auban delle Alpi
\
Les Mées # \ Marittime
/ ·
N96
# Avignon Moustiers-
]
Nîmes Parc Naturel #Ste-Marie MONACO
\
]
# Régional du 0 ¸ # _
# \ Tarascon Luberon Parc Naturel D6185 Nice #
]
Régional
# Arles Aix-en- du Verdon # Antibes
]
]
#
# Montpellier Provence St-Maximin-la- ]
]
Cannes
/ · Parc Naturel : \ # / · \ # Ste-Baume # St-Raphaël
A8
A9
Régional de
\
Camargue : L'Estaque St-Maxime
# \ # \
:
A57
Golfe de # ^ Marseille / · # \ St-Tropez
# \ Beauduc
Toulon # \ # # Le Lavandou
\
]
M E D I T E R R A N E A N Hyères
S E A

DON'T
MISS



Château-Chalon
JAMES TYE / GETTY IMAGES ©
This is the perfect spot
to sample the Jura’s
distinctive ‘yellow’ wine.
Stay in a turreted B&B
on Trip g


Bonneval-sur-Arc
Hidden on Europe’s
highest mountain pass,
this village in Vanoise
National Park is a
nature-lover’s hideaway.
Escape here on Trip h
Gorges de l’Ardèche Limestone gorges along the Ardèche River
Gîte d’Alpage de la
Molière
The Jura 5 Days
g Mellow out amid bucolic highlands and rolling Homemade raspberry
vineyards in this off-the-beaten-track region. pie and spectacular
(p189) mountain views
welcome hikers at this
eatery. Rest your feet
Alpine Adventure 6 Days
h Revel in France’s high-country grandeur, from here on Trip i
lakeside Annecy to top-of-the-world Chamonix.
(p197)
Domaine des Vignes
Foothills of the Alps 6 Days du Paradis – Pascal
i Hike verdant meadows and rugged canyons where Durand
the Alps and Provence meet. (p207)
This family-run domaine
Beaujolais Villages 2 Days welcomes visitors. Stop
j Explore the unhurried villages, gentle landscapes in to sip award-winning
and renowned reds of the Beaujolais. (p215) St-Amour red on Trip
j
Rhône Valley 5 Days
k Follow eastern France’s great river from Lyon’s
bistros to Orange’s Roman theatre. (p223) Sentier Aval des
Gorges
Driving the Gorges de
l’Ardèche scenic route
is spectacular. Discover
this easy-to-miss trail
on Trip k


187

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
1195
3195
5195
6195
7195










































Location Caption details to go here

MICHAEL BUSSELLE / GETTY IMAGES ©


The Jura 16





On this trip through mountains and vineyards, you’ll clamber over
magnificent citadels, explore deep forests of beech, oak and fir, taste
the region’s famous yellow wine and relax into its unhurried culture.

TRIP HIGHLIGHTS
5 DAYS
0 km 227KM / 141 MILES
Besançon # 1 # # # l L
Seek out the Vauban
citadel and the stellar GREAT FOR…
Musée des Beaux-Arts
JH
85 km
Arbois
Taste the alchemical BEST TIME TO GO
golden wine, vin jaune,
in this bucolic village Come between June
# # #
# and September, when
3
the sun shines; winter
is best left to cross-
115 km country skiers.
# # #
#
6
Château-Chalon
Overlook a carpet of ESSENTIAL
vineyards from lofty, I PHOTO
picturesque
Château-Chalon Snap the hawks’ view
m K from the top of the
Telesiège Val Mijoux.
205 km # Les Rousses
Parc Naturel Régional # 7 # # # K BEST FOR
du Haut-Jura FAMILIES
Go Grizzly Adams in one Camping and tramping
of the least known
corners of France in the Parc Naturel
Régional du Haut-Jura.
Jur 189
Location Caption details to go herea Moss-covered falls

16 The Jura Saône 0 ¸
D459


50 km to
Subalpine, but still formidable, the high Jura ‚
F G
mountains contrast starkly with the rolling, bucolic 15 Orchamps
\
#
lowlands, famed for Comté cheese and golden wine.
In fact, this trip is full of contrasts: one day you might / · # Dole
2
#
A39
check out Egyptian mummies, the next you’ll be
eating with vignerons at a cheery bistrot, and beyond
that dangling above limestone escarpments in a
chairlift. Despite such abundance, the Jura remains Mont-sous- # \ 0 ¸
Vaudrey
D469
one of France’s least visited territories.
Aumont
\ #

engineering, designed
TRIP HIGHLIGHT by the prolific Marquis / · Château-
A39
1 Besançon de Vauban for Louis XIV Chalon
#
#
6
Home to a monumen- in the late 17th century. / ·
D5
Inside (and included in
tal Vauban citadel and the ticket price) are a Sei lle
France’s first public mu- number of museums.
seum, birthplace of Victor Founded in 1694, the Lons-le- # \
Hugo and the Lumière Musée des Beaux-Arts et Saunier
brothers, Besançon has d’Archéologie (%03 81 87 / ·
A39
an extraordinary back- 80 67; www.mbaa.besancon.fr;
ground. Somehow, despite 1 place de la Révolution; adult/
its graceful 18th-century child €5/free; h9.30am-
old town and first-rate noon & 2-6pm Mon & Wed-Fri,
restaurants, it remains 9.30am-6pm Sat & Sun) is
something of a secret. France’s oldest museum.
The Unesco-listed
Citadelle de Besançon The stellar collection in-
cludes such archaeologi-
(www.citadelle.com; 99 rue des cal exhibits as Egyptian
Fusillés de la Résistance; adult/ mummies, neolithic tools
child €10.60/8.50; h10am- and Gallo-Roman mosa-
5pm Jan-Mar & Oct-Dec, 9am- ics, and boasts a cavern-
6pm Apr-Jun & Sep, 9am-7pm ous drawing cabinet with
Jul & Aug, closed early Jan) 5500 works including
is a formidable feat of
Dürer, Delacroix, Rubens,
Ain
190

# e 0 0 10 miles 20 km Goya, Matisse and Rodin
l Doubs masterpieces.
L
# Besançon 54 p195
# 1
The Drive » From Besançon
you can opt for the fast A36
/ · 0 ¸ / · (51km, 45 minutes) or the
N57
marginally slower but more
A36
D673
DOUBS enjoyable D673 (46km, 55
# \ minutes) to Dole.
# \ Dampierre
Orchamps
# \
Byans-
sur-Doubs # Cleron 2 Dole
\
/ · Almost every town in
N83
France has at least one
Doubs
street, square or garden
named after Louis
Nans-sous- Pasteur, the great 19th- ALPS, JURA & RHÔNE VALLEY 16 THE JuRA
# \
Mouchard \ # Sainte-Anne
century chemist who
invented pasteurisation
and developed the first
#
# \ # Arbois rabies vaccine. The Jura
3
# Pupillin Andelot-en- Fôret takes this veneration
#
4
Montagne de la further: the illustrious
# \ Joux
# Poligny man was a local lad,
#
5
born in 1822 in the well-
preserved medieval town
of Dole.
R
# Champagnole
\
LINK
JURA YOUR
TRIP
Ain St Laurent- f Route des Grands
Crus
/ · en-Grandvaux Need a drink before starting
N78
#
\
Parc Naturel our Jura tour? Combine it
Régional
Lac de du Haut-Jura with our Route des Grands
Vouglans Château Les Crus drive; its starting point
9 m K
Fôret de des Pres Rousses of Gevrey-Chambertin is
Prénovel \ # # 62km from Dole along the
#
Parc Naturel
Régional du A39.
Haut-Jura
# h Alpine Adventure
# 7
0 ¸ If the heights of the
D1005
Jura appeal then you’ll love
\ #
8
#
# \ # \ # c our Alpine Adventure, which
Lavans-lès- Moirans- Lajoux Mijoux
St-Claude en-Montagne begins in Lyon, a 135km drive
from Mijoux down the A42.
Parc Naturel Lake
Régional Geneva (Lac
17
du Haut-Jura 45 km to F G Léman)
‚ 191

A scenic stroll along family settled here, and your head by walking the
the Canal des Tanneurs Louis’ laboratory and 2.5km-long Chemin des
in Dole’s historic tanner’s workshops are on display Vignes trail, which wends
quarter brings you to Pas- at La Maison de Louis its way through the
teur’s childhood home, La Pasteur (%03 84 66 11 72; vines, starting from the
Maison Natale de Pasteur www.terredelouispasteur.fr; steps next to the Château
(La Maison de Natale Pasteur; 83 rue de Courcelles, Arbois; Pécauld.
%03 84 72 20 61; www.musee- adult/child €6.50/4; h2-6pm
pasteur.com; 43 rue Pasteur, Feb-Apr, Oct & Nov, 9.30am- 54 p195
Dole; adult/child €5/free; 12.30pm & 2-6pm May-Sep). The Drive » Clamber steeply
h2-6pm Feb-Apr, Oct & Nov, If science is a bit too uphill for five minutes (3km)
9.30am-12.30pm & 2-6pm May- dusty for you then may we along the D246 to reach the
Sep), now an atmospheric tempt you with a glass of spectacularly situated village
museum housing exhibits wine? Arbois sits at the of Pupillin.
including his cot, first heart of the Jura wine re-
drawings and university gion, renowned for its vin 4 Pupillin
cap and gown. jaune. The history of this
nutty ‘yellow wine’ is told High above Arbois is tiny
The Drive » It’s a 45-minute, Pupillin, a cute yellow-
36km doddle down the D905 in the Musée de la Vigne brick village famous
and D469 to Arbois. et du Vin du Jura (%03 84
66 40 45; www.arbois.fr; adult/ for its wine production.
child €3.50/free; h10am-noon Some 10 caves (wine cel-
TRIP HIGHLIGHT & 2-6pm Wed-Mon Mar-Oct, lars) are open to visitors.
3 Arbois 2-6pm Wed-Mon Nov-Feb), The Drive » Head southwest
ALPS, JURA & RHÔNE VALLEY 16 THE JuRA
The charming village of housed in the whimsi- out of Pupillin on the N83 and
Arbois is well worth a cal, turreted Château in 9km (15 minutes) you’ll have
visit. In 1827 the Pasteur Pécauld. Afterwards clear dropped to the town of Poligny.

LIQUID GOLD

Legend has it that vin jaune (yellow wine) was invented when a winemaker found
a forgotten barrel, six years and three months after he’d initially filled it, and
discovered its contents miraculously transformed into a gold-coloured wine.
A long, undisrupted fermentation process gives Jura’s signature wine its unique
characteristics. Savagnin grapes are harvested late and their sugar-saturated juices
left to ferment for a minimum of six years and three months in oak barrels. A thin
layer of yeast forms over the wine, which prevents it from oxidising, and there are
no top-ups to compensate for evaporation (called la part des anges – ‘the angels’
share’). In the end, 100L of grape juice ferments down to 62L of vin jaune (lucky
angels), which is then bottled in special 0.62L bottles called clavelin. Vin jaune
is renowned for its ageing qualities, with prime vintages easily keeping for more
than a century. A 1774 vintage, a cool 220 years old at the time, was sipped by an
awestruck committee of experts in 1994.
La Percée du Vin Jaune (www.percee-du-vin-jaune.com; entry & 14 tasting tickets €14;
hFeb) festival takes place annually in early February to celebrate the first tasting
of the vintage produced six years and three months earlier. Villages take it in turn
to hold the two-day celebrations, at which the new vintage is blessed and rated,
and street tastings, cooking competitions, cellar visits and auctions keep vin jaune
aficionados fulfilled.


192

HERVE HUGHES / GETTY IMAGES ©























Arbois Vineyard outside the village
Jun, Sep & Oct, 10am-noon &
5 Poligny 2-5.30pm Jul & Aug). Dozens TRIP HIGHLIGHT
So, you need a little of fruitières (cheese 6 Château-Chalon
cooperatives) are open to
cheese to accompany all the public. Poligny’s tour- Despite a name that con-
that wine? Comté is the jures up images of grand
pre-eminent AOC cheese ist office (%03 84 37 24 21; castles, Château-Chalon
of the Jura, and the small www.poligny-tourisme.com; 20 is actually a pocket-sized
place des Déportés; h10am-
town of Poligny is the medieval village of honey-
‘capital’ of an industry 12.30pm & 1.30-5.30pm Mon- coloured stone perched on
Fri, 10am-12.30pm & 2-5pm Sat)
that produces 40 million a hilltop and surrounded
tonnes of its sweet, nutty stocks an abundance of by vineyards known for
info on cheesemakers and
goodness a year. Learn wineries in the region. their legendary vin jaune.
how 450L of milk is
transformed into a 40kg 4 p195 4 p195
wheel, smell some of its The Drive » Leave Château-
83 aromas, and have a The Drive » Take the D68 out Chalon in a northeasterly
of town, and after about 4km
nibble at the Maison du veer right onto the D96. After a direction on the D5 and then
Comté (%03 84 37 78 40; further 4km, make a sharp right double back to the D70 and
www.maison-du-comte.com; onto the D5 and cruise through the town of Lons-le-Saunier.
av de la Résistance; adult/child pretty countryside into Château- From here the D52, D470 and
D436 will be your route into the
€5/3; h2-5pm Tue-Sun Apr- Chalon. It’s 15km in total. high-mountain bliss of the Parc
193

SPECIALITY FOOD & DRINK

It’s hot, it’s soft and it’s packed in a box. Vacherin Mont d’Or is the only French
cheese to be eaten with a spoon – hot. Made between 15 August and 15 March with
lait cru (unpasteurised milk), it derives its unique nutty taste from the spruce bark
in which it’s wrapped. Connoisseurs top the soft-crusted cheese with chopped
onions, garlic and white wine, wrap it in aluminium foil and bake it for 45 minutes to
create a boîte chaude (hot box). Only 11 factories in the Jura are licensed to produce
Vacherin Mont d’Or.
Mouthe, 15km south of Métabief Mont d’Or, is the mother of liqueur de sapin (fir-
tree liqueur). Glace de sapin (fir-tree ice cream) also comes from Mont d’Or, known
as the North Pole of France due to its seasonal subzero temperatures (record low:
-38°C). Sampling either is rather like ingesting a Christmas tree. Then there’s Jésus
– a small, fat version of saucisse de Morteau (Morteau sausage), easily identified
by the wooden peg on its end, attached after the sausage is smoked with pinewood
sawdust in a traditional tuyé (mountain hut).


Naturel Régional du Haut-Jura and 5km west of Mijoux
and the village of Lajoux. In total on the Swiss border. 9 Les Rousses
it’s 90km and 1½ hours.
4 p195 The driving tour comes
to a close in the resort
TRIP HIGHLIGHT The Drive » From the Maison of Les Rousses, on the
ALPS, JURA & RHÔNE VALLEY 16 THE JuRA
7 Parc Naturel du Parc the D436 will have you northeastern edge of the
switchbacking 5km down the
Régional du Haut-Jura valley into the village of Mijoux. park and hard up against
Experience the Jura at its the Swiss border. This
is the Haut-Jura’s prime
rawest in the Haut-Jura sports hub for winter
Regional Park, an area of 8 Mijoux
757 sq km stretching from Close to the small ski (skiing) and summer
Chapelle-des-Bois in the resort of Mijoux there are (walking and mountain
north almost to the west- some fabulous panoramas biking) alike. The resort
comprises four small, pre-
ern tip of Lake Geneva. of Lake Geneva, framed dominantly cross-country
A great place to start is by the French Alps and
the Maison du Parc (%03 Mont Blanc. For the best ski areas: Prémanon,
Lamoura, Bois d’Amont
84 34 12 30; www.parc-haut- views, ride the Telesiège
jura.fr; 29 Qua le Village, Lajoux; Val Mijoux (adult/child and the village Les
Rousses. Find out more at
adult/child €5/3; h9am- one way €7/4.50; h8.45am- the Maison du Tourisme,
12.30pm & 1.30-6pm Tue-Sun 4.45pm daily late Dec–late
Jun & school holidays, Tue-Fri Mar, Sat & Sun early Jul–late home to the tourist office
(Station des Rousses; %03
other times), a visitor centre Aug) from Mijoux or drive
with an interactive senso- to the Col de la Faucille 84 60 02 55; www.lesrousses.
rial museum that explores (7km along the D936), com; 495 rue Pasteur, Les
the region and its history high above the village. Rousses; hhours vary, see
through sound, touch and The Drive » It’s a 20-minute, website for details) and the
ESF (%03 84 60 01 61; www.
smell. The Maison du Parc 20km drive along the D936 and
is in the village of Lajoux, D1005 to Les Rousses through esf-lesrousses.com; 495 rue
19km east of St-Claude forest and pastureland. Pasteur, Maison du Tourisme,
Les Rousses) ski school.
194

Eating & Sleeping


stone convent has been lovingly transformed into
Besançon 1 this boutique B&B, with five rooms remarkable
for their pared-down elegance, a tree-shaded
5 Le Saint-Pierre Modern French €€€ garden by the river and a plunge pool.
(%03 81 81 20 99; www.restaurant-saintpierre.
com; 104 rue Battant; menus €40-75; hnoon-
1.30pm Mon-Fri, 7.30-9pm Mon-Sat) Crisp Poligny 5
white tablecloths, exposed stone and subtle
lighting are the backdrop for intense flavours, 4 Hôtel de la Vallée
such as lobster lasagne with spinach and Heureuse Hotel €€
lobster bouillon, which are expertly paired with (%03 84 37 12 13; www.hotelvalleeheureuse.com;
regional wines. At €40 the three-course menu rte de Genève; s/d/q €99/133/185, lunch menus
du marché, which includes wine and coffee, is €29, dinner menus €42-70; s) In a beautifully
excellent value. converted 18th-century mill by a rushing stream,
this serene country retreat has 11 large, tastefully ALPS, JURA & RHÔNE VALLEY 16 THE JuRA
4 Residence Charles decorated rooms and a restaurant specialising in
Quint Apartment € traditional French cuisine. Run by the welcoming
(%03 81 82 00 21; www.residence-charlesquint. Isabelle and Patrice, it’s on the road from the
com; 3 rue du Chapitre; d/apt €80/110; W) centre of town towards Champagnole and
Slumbering behind the cathedral, in the shade Geneva (N5), 400m past the sign indicating that
of the citadel, this discreetly grand 18th-century you’re leaving Poligny.
town house is now a sublime ‘residence’ featuring
period furniture, sumptuous fabrics, a peaceful
private garden and a wood-panelled dining room. Château-Chalon 6
Parking (€5 per night) is available and a buffet
breakfast (€13.50) can be taken at the nearby 4 Le Relais des Abbesses B&B €
Hotel Sauvage. Minimum three-night stay. (%03 84 44 98 56; www.relais-des-abbesses.
fr; 36 rue de la Roche; s incl breakfast €75-100,
d incl breakfast €80-105; hMar–mid-Nov; W)
Arbois 3 Agnès and Gérard have attractively decorated
their five spacious, en-suite rooms – all with
5 Bistrot des Claquets French € either hardwood or old tile floors – with Chinese
(%03 84 66 04 19; www.bistrot-des-claquets. lacquer furnishings.
com; 33 rue de Faramand; 2-/3-course menus
€13/16; h7.30am-9pm Tue-Sat; c) Loved by
vignerons (wine growers) and other locals, this Parc Naturel Régional du
unpretentious, convivial little bistrot serves Haut-Jura 7
fantastic French country fare, but only at
lunchtime! If you miss the petit salé (lentils with 4 Le Clos d’Estelle B&B €
salt pork), blanquettes de veau (poached veal (%03 84 42 01 29; www.leclosdestelle.com; 1
in white sauce) or whatever else is cooking that La Marcantine, Charchilla; d/q with breakfast
day, it’s still worth popping in to sample the vin €85/140; i) Surrounded by fields and sheep,
jaune and happy chatter.
Christine and Jean-Pierre warmly welcome
4 Closerie les Capucines B&B €€ guests to four very spacious, wood-built
(%03 84 66 17 38; www.closerielescapucines. chambres d’hôte (B&B) in their mid-19th-
com; 7 rue de Bourgogne; d/q incl breakfast from century farmhouse. Situated in Charchilla
€125/250; hFeb-Dec; iWs) A 17th-century (pronounced ‘shar-shiy-a’), 200m down the hill
behind the church.



195

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Location Caption details to go here

MAX SHEN / GETTY IMAGES ©
Alpine Adventure 17








With their combination of retina-burning splendour and the
sturdy charms of time-worn mountain culture, France’s Alps
provide an incomparable setting for a summer road trip.

TRIP HIGHLIGHTS
6 DAYS
l L # 1 # # # # 363KM / 225 MILES
# # #
3
GREAT FOR…
JG
95 km
Chamonix BEST TIME TO GO
Experience Mont
Blanc's magnetic Mid-June to mid-
allure in Europe's Val September, when
mountaineering d'Isère mountain passes are
capital # Col de
# l’Iseran snow free.
#
#
# #
6
0 km ESSENTIAL
Annecy I PHOTO
Wander flowery canal
banks and swim a Alpine crags and
pure Alpine lake colourful boats
215 km
reflected in the lake at
Bonneval-sur-Arc
# Col du Galibier The quintessential Annecy.
Alpine village, tucked

beyond Europe's BEST TWO
highest paved pass K
Briançon # DAYS
The section between
m K
St-Véran Annecy and Chamonix,
# for classic French Alpine
scenery.
Chamonix 197
Location Caption details to go here Aiguille du Midi

48 km to
F G / · HAUTE-
A41
‚
16
# \ SAVOIE
Allonzier-
la-Caille
l La Clusaz \ #
L
# Annecy
# 1
# Veyrier-du-Lac
\
Lac d'Annecy
# \ Sévrier # \
17 Alpine Adventure # Duingt
\
0 ¸
D1508
Parc Régional
du Massif
A study in superlatives, this outdoorsy ramble through des Bauges Faverges \ # Ugine # \
the heart of the French Alps runs from Annecy # Le Châtelard
\
(perhaps France’s prettiest lake-city) to Mont Blanc Albertville # \
\
#
\
(Western Europe’s highest peak) to Col de l’Iseran # Écoly # \
(its highest mountain pass) to Bonneval-sur-Arc (an St-Pierre
d'Albigny
Alpine village of incomparable charm) to St-Véran \ #
\
#
(France’s most elevated village). Along the way you’ll Isère
have ample opportunity for high-adrenaline mountain
adventures: hiking, mountain biking, white-water / ·
N6
rafting, riding knee-trembling cable cars and crossing ‚
the French Alps’ most spectacular passes. 52 km to Maurienne
F G
18
ing at pavement cafes, Col du St-Jean de # \
TRIP HIGHLIGHT swimming in the lake Glandon Maurienne
(1908m)
1 Annecy (among Europe’s purest) c c St-Jean \ #
Col de la
There’s no dreamier in- and boating, walking Croix de Fer # \ d'Arves c
or cycling around it.
troduction to the French Evening street perform- (2061m) \ #
Alps than Annecy. The ers feature during July’s
mountains rise steep, Les Noctibules festival,
wooded and snow- and there are lakeside
capped above startlingly fireworks during August’s R Alpe d'Huez
(1860m)
\
#
turquoise Lac d’Annecy, Fête du Lac. Romanche
providing a sublime Wander through the c
setting for the medieval narrow medieval streets R
Glacier
town’s photogenic jumble of the Vieille Ville (Old du Mont
of geranium-strewn Town) to find the whimsi- du Lans R
(3425m)
houses, romantic canals cal 12th-century Palais Barre des
Écrins
and turreted rooftops. de l’Isle (%04 56 49 40 37; (4102m)
Summer is the prime www.musees.agglo-annecy.
time to visit, when every- fr; 3 passage de l’Île; adult/
one is outdoors, socialis-
child €3.80/2; h10am-noon # \
# \
198
# #\ \