Lonely Planet France’s Best Trips (Travel Guide)

boutique. Afterwards, tions are essential to visit
the hilltop village of TRIP HIGHLIGHT inside but out of high sea-
Gordes is worth a detour, 2 Abbaye Notre- son they can be made on-
especially at sunset, fol- Dame de Sénanque site (conservative dress
lowed perhaps by a drink and silence are required).
at the newly renovated Isolated and ridiculously Tours begin around 10am,
Bastide de Gordes (%04 photogenic, this 12th- so for some tranquil time
90 72 12 12; www.bastide-de- century Cistercian abbey with the lavender, arrive
gordes.com; Le Village; r from (%04 90 72 05 72; www. well before then.
€346; aW) hotel. abbayedesenanque.com; adult/
child €7.50/3.50; h9.45-11am The Drive » The way out of
The Drive » The museum is Mon-Sat, tours by reservation) the abbey has you heading north.
just off the D2. From here, it’s is famously framed by Continue up the D177 then turn
another 7km to Gordes along right onto the D244 and follow
the D2, then a turn-off onto lavender from mid-June the signs to Murs, a very winding
the D177 for 4km till you reach through July. The abbey 9.5km drive accompanied by
the abbey. You’ll pass plenty of was founded in 1148 and wheat fields and vineyards. From
lavender photo ops en route, so is still home to a small here it’s about 25 minutes to the
feel free to stop if you can find number of monks. The next stop.
an appropriate spot. cloisters have a haunting,
severe beauty; reserva- PROVENCE & SOUTHEAST FRANCE 22 LAvENDER ROUTE
3 St-Saturnin-lès-
Apt
St-Saturnin-lès-Apt is a
refreshingly ungentrified
80 km to village, with marvellous
F G views of the surrounding
‚
18
Vaucluse plateau punctu-
Buëch
ALPES DE ated by purple fields –
0 ¸ PROVENCE climb to the ruins atop
HAUTE-
D946
LINK
/ · YOUR
A51
TRIP
0 ¸
D951
i Foothills of the
Bléone Alps
#
#
6
Banon Prieure de Swap rolling hills for
/ · 0 ¸ Ganagobie R spectacular gorges and
D950
D5
(660m)
then alpine air: take the D6
# \ and D852 to Moustiers-Ste-
# Forcalquier Durance Marie, or drop in at Sisteron
# 7
Prieuré de Salagon# 0 ¸ from Forcalquier.
8
#
D4100
0 ¸
D13
F G l Roman Provence
c
18
From Roman
0 ¸ Plateau de Provence’s last stop in
D4100
H / · / · Valensole Vaison-la-Romaine, it’s a
#
D5
A51
#
#
10
p252 m K gorgeous drive to Gordes via
0 ¸ Carpentras and Venasque.
D907
D6
Manosque# / ·
9
#
Parc Naturel
Régional
du Verdon 249

the village for a knockout local speciality pognes (an
vista. At Moulin à Huile orange-scented brioche)
Jullien (%04 90 75 56 24; are also must-tries. Head
www.moulin-huile-jullien.com; to GAEC Champelle CHRIS HELLIER / ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©
rte d’Apt; h10am-noon & (%04 90 64 01 50; www.
3-7pm Jul & Aug, 10am-noon & gaec-champelle.fr; rte de
2-6pm rest of year, closed Sun Ventoux), a roadside farm
year-round) see how olives stand northwest of town,
are milled into oil (with whose products include
honey and oil tastings great buys for cooks. The
thrown in). See lavande lavender up here is known
fine growing at Château for its dark, OK…deep
du Bois (%04 90 76 91 23; purple, hue.
www.lechateaudubois.com), The Drive » This is one
a winding, but gor- great 25km. Head out of town
geous, drive 20km to the on the D164; when you hit the
northeast, with 800,000 D974, fields give way to dense,
sq metres of peaceful fragrant forest (impromptu
plantings. (Note, this is a picnic, perhaps?). Above the
farm only; the shop and tree line, strange spots of Alpine
museum is in Coustellet.) scrub are gradually replaced by
pale bald slopes. These steep
54 p253 gradients have often formed a
hair-raising stage of the Tour
The Drive » Spot the pretty de France – the road is daubed
17th-century windmill, Le with Tour graffiti and many
Château les Moulins, 1km north, fans make a brave two-wheeled
off the D943 towards Sault, then homage.
look out for the magnificent
PROVENCE & SOUTHEAST FRANCE 22 LAvENDER ROUTE
views of the red-tinged
escarpment and the rust- 5 Mont ventoux a year, sometimes exceed-
coloured village of Roussillon. ing 250km/h. Bring a
The views of Mont Ventoux only If fields of flowers are in-
get more spectacular as you toxicating, Mont Ventoux cardigan and scarf!
approach Sault, a 35-minute (1912m) is awe-inspiring. The Drive » Go back the way
drive away. Nicknamed le géant de you came to Sault, then head
Provence – Provence’s east to Banon on the D950 for
TRIP HIGHLIGHT giant – its great white another 40 minutes.
4 Sault hulk is visible from much
of the region. Le géant
This drowsily charming, sparkles all year round 6 Banon
isolated hilltop town – once the snow melts, A tasty, nonfloral diver-
mixes its lavender views its lunar-style limestone sion: little village, big
with plum orchards and slopes glimmer in the sun. cheese. Bustling Banon
scattered forest. Town hot From its peak, clear-day is famous for its chèvre
spot is André Boyer (%04 vistas extend to the Alps de Banon, a goat’s-milk
90 64 00 23; www.nougat- and the Camargue. cheese wrapped in a
boyer.fr; place de l’Europe), Even summer tem- chestnut leaf. Fromagerie
keeping farmers, cyclists peratures can plummet de Banon sells its cheese
and mountaineers in by 20°C at the top; it’s at the Tuesday morning
honey and almond nougat also twice as likely to market, and at wonder-
since 1887; its lavender rain; and the relentless ful cheese-and-sausage
marshmallows and the mistrals blow 130 days shop Brindille Melchio

250

Prieure de Salagon Medieval herb gardens of the Jardins Salagon

(%04 92 73 23 05; place de la Climb the steep steps
République; h8am-12.30pm 7 Forcalquier to Forcalquier’s gold-
& 2.30-6.30pm Wed-Sun Sep- Forcalquier has an up- topped citadel and oc-
Jun, 8am-7pm daily Jul & Aug), beat, slightly bohemian tagonal chapel for more
which is unbeatable for vibe, a holdover from sensational views; on the
picnic supplies. Tuck into 1960s and ’70s, when way down note the once-
cheese-and-charcuterie artists and back-to-the- wealthy seat’s ornately
plates at Les Vins au landers arrived, fostering carved wooden doorways
Vert (%04 92 75 23 84; www. a now-booming organics and grand bourgeois
lesvinsauvert.com; rue Pasteur; (‘biologiques’ or bio) town houses. Prefer to
mains €12-16; h10am-7pm movement. Saffron is work your senses over-
Wed, 10am-10pm Thu-Sat, grown here, absinthe is time? UESS’ Couvent des
10am-5pm Sun); make res- distilled, and the town is Cordeliers (%04 92 72 50
ervations for Thursday to also home to L’Université 68; www.couventdescordeliers.
Saturday nights. com; workshops €40-50) con-
Européenne des Sen-
The Drive » Follow the teurs & Saveurs (UESS; ducts workshops (€40 to
D950 southeast for 25km to European University of €50) in perfume making,
Forcalquier, as the scenery Scents and Flavours). To wine tasting, and aroma-
alternates between gentle see it all in action, time therapy in Forcalquier’s
forested slopes and fields. 13th-century convent.
your visit for the Monday
morning market. 54 p253


251

The Drive » Find yourself recreated medieval herb The Drive » Get on the D13,
in a gentle world of plane-tree gardens, fragrant with then follow the signs to the
arcades, wildflowers and, yes, native lavender, mints and D5 for the drive to Manosque
lavender. Around 4km south on mugworts. The bookshop (roughly 30 minutes in total).
the D4100 you’ll come to our is inviting, too.
next stop, just before the pretty The walled town of
town of Mane.
Mane is lovely for stroll- 9 Manosque
ing. Or for a mysterious, Manosque has two lovely
TRIP HIGHLIGHT potentially curative fountains and a historic
8 Prieuré de detour, visit remote cobblestoned core, but
Salagon Église de Cháteauneuf, traffic and suburban
where a hermit church
nothingness make visit-
This beautiful 13th-century sister concocts natural ing a nuisance. But just
priory, located on the remedies and makes southeast is the home of
outskirts of Mane, is home jam. Head 800m south of l’Occitane, the company
to a garden museum, the Mane to the Hôtel Mas du that turned traditional
Jardins Salagon (www. Pont Roman, then turn lavender-, almond- and
musee-de-salagon.com; adult/ right and either park and olive oil–based Provençal
child/family €8/6/22; h10am- walk, or drive the bumpy skincare into a global
8pm Jun-Aug, to 7pm May & Sep, final 3km. Be warned: the phenomenon. Factory
to 6pm Oct–mid-Dec & Feb-Apr; good sister doesn’t always tours can be booked
c). This is ethno-botany reveal herself. Just in through the tourist
at its most poetic and case, bring a picnic and office; the shop offers a
sensual: wander through consider it an adventure. flat 10% discount, and the
odd bargain.
The Drive » Leave the
freeways and ring roads behind
DETOUR: and cross the Durance River
PROVENCE & SOUTHEAST FRANCE 22 LAvENDER ROUTE
THE LUBERON towards the quieter D6 (from
where it will take around 20
minutes to reach the town of
Start: 8 Prieuré de Salagon Valensole); check the rear-view
The Luberon’s other, southern, half is equally as mirrors for mountain views.
florally blessed. Lavender carpets the Plateau de
Claparèdes between Buoux (west), Sivergues
(south), Auribeau (east) and Saignon (north). Cycle, a Plateau de
walk or motor through the lavender fields and along valensole
the northern slopes of Mourre Nègre (1125m) – the Things get very relaxed
Luberon’s highest point, accessible from Cucuron. once you hit the D6,
The D113 climbs to idyllic lavender distillery Les and the road begins
Agnels (%04 90 74 34 60; www.lesagnels.com; rte de a gentle climb. This
Buoux, btwn Buoux & Apt; adult/child €6/free; h10am-7pm dreamily quiet plateau
Apr-Sep, to 5.30pm Oct-Mar), which distils lavender, has Provence’s greatest
cypress and rosemary. The small on-site spa has a concentration of lavender
lavender-scented swimming pool. Stay at Chambre
avec Vue (%04 90 04 85 01; www.chambreavecvue.com; farms, and a checker-
rue de la Bourgade; r €90-110; hclosed Dec-Feb) in tiny, board of waving wheat
hip Saignon, which perches on high rocky flanks, its and lavender rows stretch
narrow streets crowning a hill ringed with craggy to the horizon, or at least
scrub and petite lavender plots, with incredible vistas until Riez. Fine picnic
across the Luberon to Mont Ventoux. spots and photo ops are
not hard to find.

252

Eating & Sleeping


earthy, market-driven cooking, incorporating
St-Saturnin-lès-Apt 3 fresh-from-the-farm ingredients in simple bistro
fare, like honey-braised rabbit or grilled lamb
5 La Coquillade French €€€ with tomato and basil. The best idea is usually
(%04 90 74 71 71; www.coquillade.fr; Le just to go for whatever is on the blackboard.
Perrotet, Gargas; menus lunch €39, dinner €72- Reservations recommended.
90, d €325-390; h12.30-1.30pm & 7.30-9.30pm 5 Les Petites Tables Provencal €€
mid-Apr–mid-Oct) Overnighting at this luxurious
hilltop estate won’t suit everyone’s budget, but (%04 86 68 53 14; lespetitestables@gmail.
everyone should try to fork out for the great- com; lunch mains €10-16; hnoon-3pm Tue-Sat)
value Bistrot lunch menu. Michelin-starred and This Provençal restaurant at the Ecomusée
run by renowned chef Christophe Renaud, it’ll l’Olivier (%04 92 72 66 91; www.ecomusee-
be one of the most memorable meals you’ll olivier.com) near Volx is only open for lunch. It
have in the Luberon. It’s a 13km drive west from makes full use of its own olive oils, which are
St-Saturnin, near the village of Lioux; there are used to make homemade salad dressings and
plenty of signs, but phone ahead to confirm tomato dishes.
directions. 4 Relais d’Elle B&B € PROVENCE & SOUTHEAST FRANCE 22 LAvENDER ROUTE
4 Le Mas Perréal B&B €€ (%04 92 75 06 87, 06 75 42 33 72; http://
(%04 90 75 46 31; www.masperreal.com; relaisdelle.com; rte de la Brillane, Niozelles;
Quartier la Fortune; d €130-140, self-catering s/d/tr/q from €60/75/90/115; Ws) What a
studio €100-150; Ws) Surrounded by stunner of a B&B this is, 8km from Forcalquier
vineyards, lavender fields and cherry orchards, in a delightful ivy-covered farmhouse dating
on a vast 7-hectare property outside St-Saturnin- from 1802, surrounded by tended gardens,
lès-Apt, this farmhouse B&B offers a choice of bucolic countryside and a grand pool. The
cosy rooms or self-catering studios, both filled sweet, feminine rooms all have views – we liked
with country antiques and Provençal fabrics. Collines for its cosiness and Pierres for its
There’s a heavenly pool and big garden with atmosphere. The owners are passionate about
mountain views. Elisabeth, a long-time French horses. They also offer a delicious dinner by
teacher, offers cooking and French lessons. It’s reservation.
2km southwest of town along the D2. 4 Couvent des Minimes Hotel €€€
(%04 92 74 77 77; www.couventdesminimes-
hotelspa.com; chemin des Jeux de Maï, Mane; r
Forcalquier 7 from €275; aWs) A real budget-buster, but
5 Restaurant Le 9 Provencal €€ boutique in every sense of the word. Housed in
(%04 92 75 03 29; www.le9-forcalquier.fr; av a converted convent, it pulls out all the luxury
stops: beautiful rooms, an indulgent spa and a
Jean Giono; menus €22-28; hnoon-2.30pm & superb restaurant, all wrapped up in wonderful
7.30-10pm Wed-Mon) High in Forcalquier, behind medieval architecture. Low-season and last-
the Citadel with a panoramic terrace, Le 9 (say minute deals often bring prices down a notch.
luh-nuf) is the town’s most reliable address for
It’s in the village of Mane on the D4100.










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Location Caption details to go here

#
SYLVAIN SONNET / GETTY IMAGES ©
Riviera Crossing 23








French road trips just don’t get more glamorous than this:
cinematic views, searing sunshine, art history aplenty and the
Med around every turn.

TRIP HIGHLIGHTS
4 DAYS
110KM / 68 MILES
110 km
Èze GREAT FOR...
End with a sundowner
in a dreamy hilltop village m K BHG
Menton
#
62 km
# BEST TIME TO GO
La Grande Corniche Roquebrune-
Cruise the Côte d'Azur's # Cap- Martin Anytime, but avoid
#
9
most famous road # Monaco
# July and August’s
5
#
# heavy traffic.
#
4

Nice
#
# Delve into busy markets ESSENTIAL
3
and an atmospheric I PHOTO
old town
48 km Standing beneath
Augustus’
monumental Trophée
St-Paul de des Alpes, with
Vence
l L Juan-les-Pins Paint your own pictures Monaco and the Med
# Antibes
far below.
#
in this hilltop artists'
# hideaway
# 1
28 km
Cannes BEST FOR
Cinematic heritage K GLAMOUR
and cinematic views
to match Strolling the Croisette
0 km in Cannes and fulfilling
those film-star fantasies.
Ment 255
Location Caption details to go hereon Seaside town of peaceful gardens and belle-époque mansions

23 Riviera Crossing



Cruising the Côte d’Azur is the French road trip everyone has to do at least
one in their lifetime. From film town Cannes to down-to-earth Nice via the
corkscrew turns of the Corniches and into millionaire’s Monaco, it’s a drive
that you’ll remember forever (and hopefully not because of the dreadful
summer traffic). Filmmakers, writers, celebs and artists have all had their
hearts stolen by this glittering stretch of coastline: by the end of this trip, w
you’ll understand why.
w

#\ Col de la
Berre les Alpes
Madone
Contes # \ (927m) # \
Boyon # \ St-Martin # \ c
ALPES- # \ du Var La Grave Peille
MARITIMES Le Broc # \ Tourette- #\ Mont Age # \
Levens
Carros # \ Borghéas Peillon # \ (1110m) R
Coursegoules Baou de Village # \ Parc Naturel Saint-Martin # \ # \
# \ Jeannet # \ de Peille
# \ Greolières Carros- Régional de la Beausoleil
Loup Col de (800m) le-Neuf # \ Grande Corniche La Turbie # \
Vence
R
# \
# \ Cipières (963m) Baou des Gattières 0¸ # \ Colomars La Trinite Col d'Èze Monaco #
8
#
# _
É
c Blancs # \ N202 Mont Gros #\ (512m) É É É # \
c
#
9
#
Plateau de Calern Courmes (673m) St-Jeannet / · (375m) R # É Èze # \ m K
# \ Bramafan
Fontvieille
# \
A8
R
5
N7
Corniche
\ # La Gaude La Grande # # \ / · Èze-sur-Mer
# \ Caussols Tourrettes- # \ Vence #\ Nice # # \ Beaulieu-
# ] #
Courmettes sur-Loup Var # \ 4 sur-Mer
Gourdon # \ # \ \ # # \ St-Paul de Vence St-Isidore #I Mont R # \ St-Jean-
Le Pont La Colle p304 Boron
#
# \ 3
Le Bar- du Loup Loubière R # St-Laurent- # \ Cap Ferrat
sur-Loup # \ (337m) # \ du-Var Villefranche- Cap
sur-Mer
N98
La Colle-sur-Loup # \ / · Ferrat
Châteauneuf Villeneuve- Cagnes- Aéroport
de Grasse # \ Loubet sur-Mer # – International
# \ Roquefort- # \ # \/ · Nice-Côte d'Azur
N7
# \ Opio les-Pins # \ Cros de Cagnes
Villeneuve-
# \ Grasse # \ Loubet-
# \ Valbonne Biot Plage Mediterranean
‚ Mouans- Sophia # \ # Sea
H
Sartoux 0¸
63 km to / · # \ D103 # \ Antipolis / · p259
N85
F G # \ Mougins A8
22
Auribeau- Golfe-
# ] Antibes
#
2
# \ Vallauris #
sur-Siagne # \ Juan # \ 2
# \
l L # \ Le Cannet # Juan-les-Pins
#
Plage de
Mandelieu- Cannes- # Cannes Golfe # Ù la Garoupe
Juan
# ] # 1
La Napoule La Bocca Palm Cap # e 0 10 km
# \
H
30 km to F G # \ ‚ # Golfe de # Ù Beach d'Antibes 0 5 miles
24
Napoule
p258
# \
# \
# \
R
# \
# \
R

a must-do, as is a night-
TRIP HIGHLIGHT time stroll along the 2 Antibes & Juan-
1 Cannes boulevard, illuminated by les-Pins
What glitzier opening coloured lights. A century or so ago,
Outside festival time,
could there be to this Cannes still feels irresist- Antibes and Juan-les-Pins
Côte d’Azur cruise than ibly ritzy. Private beaches were a refuge for artists,
Cannes, which is just as and grand hotels line the writers, aristocrats and
cinematic as its reputa- seafront; further west hedonistic expats looking
tion suggests. Come July lies old Cannes. Follow to escape the horrors of
during the film festival, rue St-Antoine and snake post-WWI Europe. They
the world’s stars descend your way up Le Suquet, came in their droves –
on boulevard de la Croi- Cannes’ atmospheric F Scott Fitzgerald wrote
sette (aka La Croisette) original village. Pick up several books here, and
to stroll beneath the the region’s best produce Picasso rented a minia-
palms, plug their latest at Marché Forville, a ture castle (it’s now a mu-
opus and hobnob with couple of blocks back seum dedicated to him).
the media and movie from the port. First stop is the beach
moguls. Getting your Not seduced? Then resort of Juan-les-Pins.
picture snapped outside head to the Îles de It’s a long way from the PROVENCE & SOUTHEAST FRANCE 23 RIVIERA CROSSING
w
the Palais des Festivals is fashionable resort of
Lérins, two islands a
w
w
20-minute boat ride Fitzgerald’s day, but the
w away. Tiny and traffic- beaches are still good for
free, they’re perfect for sun-lounging (even if you
Roverino do have to pay).
Castellar \ # walks or a picnic. Boats
Ste-Agnès \ # LIGURIA # \ for the islands leave Then it’s on around
# \ Ventimiglia
# \ # \ from quai des Îles, on the peninsula of Cap
c
Gorbio Garavan # Mortola
# \ \ # \ Menton the western side of the d’Antibes, where many of
] # 7
Roquebrune # # the great and good had
# \ R É harbour.
# \ # \ #Carnolès their holiday villas: the
\
É # Roquebrune- 54 p264 Hotel Cap du Eden Roc
#
6
\
#
É
Cap Cap-Martin
# \ was one of their favourite
# \ Martin The Drive »The most scenic
# fashionable haunts.
8
#
_
#
Côte d'Azur coastal D6007. Bear right onto Round the peninsula is
#\ route to Antibes is via the
av Frères Roustan before Golfe
Juan. With luck and no tailbacks, pretty Antibes, with a
harbour full of pleasure
you should hit Juan-les-Pins in boats and an old town
30 minutes or so. ringed by medieval
ramparts. Aim to arrive
before lunchtime, when
LINK
YOUR
TRIP
m Lavender Route o Vars Delights
After the coast, head Mediterranean coast
into the lavender-filled hills and Provençal countryside:
of Haute-Provence. a natural extension west.
257

reach the town, cross the river. came by its stellar art
You’ll pass through a tunnel into collection).
the outskirts of Cagnes-sur-Mer; It’s now one of the
now start following signs to Riviera’s most exclusive
St-Paul.
locations, a haven for
artists, film stars and
the atmospheric Marché TRIP HIGHLIGHT celebrities, not to men-
Provençal will still be tion hordes of sightseers,
in full swing, and then 3 St-Paul de Vence many of whom are here
browse the nearby Musée Once upon a time, hilltop to marvel at the incred-
Picasso (%04 92 90 54 St-Paul de Vence was ible art collection at the
20; www.antibes-juanlespins. just another village Fondation Maeght (%04
com/culture/musee-picasso; like countless others in 93 32 81 63; www.fondation-
Château Grimaldi, 4 rue des Provence. But then the maeght.com; 623 chemin des
Cordiers; adult/concession artists moved in: paint- Gardettes; adult/child €15/10;
€6/3; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun ers such as Marc Chagall h10am-7pm Jul-Sep, to 6pm
mid-Jun–mid-Sep, 10am-noon and Pablo Picasso sought Oct-Jun). Created in 1964
& 2-6pm Tue-Sun mid-Sep–mid- solitude here, painted the by collectors Aimé and
Jun) to see a few of the local scenery and traded Merguerite Maeght, it
artist’s Antibes-themed canvases for room and boasts works by all the
works. board (this is how the big 20th-century names –
Colombe d’Or (%04 93 32
54 p264 80 02; www.la-colombe-dor Miró sculptures, Chagall
The Drive »Brave the traffic .com; place de Gaulle; d mosaics, Braque windows
and canvases by Picasso,
on the D6007 and avoid signs to €250-430; hrestaurant Matisse and others.
turn onto the A8 motorway: it’s noon-2.30pm & 7.30-10.30pm While you’re here, it’s
the D2 you want, so follow signs late Dec-Oct; aWs) hotel
for Villeneuve-Loubet. When you worth taking a detour
northwards to Vence,
where the marvellous
PROVENCE & SOUTHEAST FRANCE 23 RIVIERA CROSSING
Chapelle du Rosaire
DETOUR: (Rosary Chapel; %04 93 58
CORNICHE DE 03 26; 466 av Henri Matisse;
L’ESTÉREL adult/child €6/3; h2-5.30pm
Mon, Wed & Sat, 10-11.30am
Start: 1 Cannes & 2-5.30pm Tue & Thu, closed
West of Cannes, the winding coast road known as mid-Nov–early Dec) was
the Corniche de l’Estérel (sometimes known as the designed by an ailing
Corniche d’Or, the Golden Road) is well worth a side Henri Matisse. He had a
trip if you can spare the time. It’s also a natural link hand in everything here,
with our Var Delights itinerary (p267). Opened in 1903 from the stained-glass
by the Touring Club de France, this twisting coast road windows to the altar and
is as much about driving pleasure as getting from A candlesticks.
to B; it runs for 30 unforgettable coastal kilometres The Drive »Return the way
all the way to St-Raphael. En route you’ll pass seaside you came, only this time follow
villages, secluded coves (sandy, pebbled, nudist, cove- the blue signs onto the A8
like, you name it) and the rocky red hills of the Massif motorway to Nice. Take exit 50
de l’Estérel, dotted with gnarly oaks, juniper and wild for Promenade des Anglais,
thyme. Wherever you go, the blue Mediterranean which will take you all 18km
shimmers alongside, tempting you to stop for just one along the Baie des Anges. The
more swim. It’s too much to resist. views are great, but you’ll hit
nightmare traffic at rush hour.

258

%04 97 13 42 01; www.mamac- A Thief, when Grace Kelly
TRIP HIGHLIGHT nice.org; place Yves Klein; and Cary Grant cruised
4 Nice h10am-6pm Tue-Sun). the hills in a convertible,
With its mix of real-city 54 p264, p409 enjoying sparkling banter
and searing blue Mediter-
grit, old-world opulence The Drive »Head out of the ranean views? Well you’re
and year-round sunshine, city through Riquier on the about to tackle the very
Nice is the undisputed D2564. You don’t want the same drive – so don your
capital of the Côte d’Azur. motorway – you want to hit bd shades, roll down the win-
Sure, the traffic’s hor- Bischoffsheim, which becomes dows and hit the asphalt.
rendous and the beach is bd de l’Observatoire as it climbs It’s a roller coaster of
made entirely of pebbles up to the summit of Mont Gros. a road, veering through
(not a patch of sand in Take it all in, stop for the pan- hairpins and switchbacks
sight!), but that doesn’t city views, then get ready to as it heads into the hills
detract from its charms. really drive. The next 12km are above Nice. There are
thrilling, twisting past the Parc
It’s a great base, with Naturel Régional de la Grande countless picnic spots
loads of hotels and res- Corniche. Pull over and make and photo opportunities
taurants, and character use of the picnic tables if you along the way, including
in every nook and cranny. wish, or take a break for a hilly the Col d’Èze, the road’s
Start with a morning hike, then continue to La Turbie. PROVENCE & SOUTHEAST FRANCE 23 RIVIERA CROSSING
stroll through the huge highest point at 512m.
Further on you’ll pass
food and flower markets TRIP HIGHLIGHT the monumental Roman
on cours Saleya, then landmark known as the
delve into the wind- 5 La Grande Trophée des Alpes (%04
ing alleyways of the Corniche 93 41 20 84; http://la-turbie.
old town, Vieux Nice, Remember that sexy scene monuments-nationaux.fr; 18 av
with many backstreet from Hitchcock’s To Catch Albert Ier, La Turbie; adult/child
restaurants where you
can try local speciali-
ties such as pissaladière
(onion tart topped with DETOUR:
olives and anchovies)
and socca (chickpea-flour BIOT
pancake). Stop for an ice Start: 2 Antibes & Juan-les-Pins
cream at famous Fenoc-
chio (p264) – flavours This 15th-century hilltop village was once an
include tomato, lavender, important pottery-manufacturing centre. The advent
olive and fig – then spend of metal containers brought an end to this, but Biot
the afternoon sunbathing is still active in handicraft production, especially
on the beaches along the glassmaking. At the foot of the village, the Verrerie
seafront Promenade des de Biot (%04 93 65 03 00; www.verreriebiot.com; chemin
des Combes; museum adult/child €3/1.50; h9.30am-7.30pm
Anglais before catching
an epic sunset. Mon-Sat, 10.30am-1pm & 2.30-7.30pm Sun Apr-Sep, to 6pm Oct-
Mar) produces bubbled glass by rolling molten glass
If you have the time,
the city has some great into baking soda; bubbles from the chemical reaction
are then trapped by a second layer of glass. You can
museums too – you’ll need watch skilled glass-blowers at work and browse the
at least an afternoon to adjacent art galleries and shop. There are also guided
explore all of the modern
masterpieces at the Musée tours (€6), during which you get the chance to try
your hand at a spot of glass-blowing – and learn why
d’Art Moderne et d’Art it’s probably best left to the professionals.
Contemporain (MAMAC;
259

WHY THIS IS A DOUGLAS PEARSON / GETTY IMAGES ©
CLASSIC TRIP
OLIVER BERRY,
WRITER
If there were a top 10 of French
road trips, this would have to figure
ROBYN MACKENZIE / SHUTTERSTOCKS ©
near the top. It takes in most of the
quintessential sights of the Côte
d’Azur, from seaside cities to hilltop
villages, and tackles the hairpin
turns and hair-raising drops of the
three clifftop roads known as the
Corniches. The views are simply
stunning – simply put, it’s one of the
world’s must-do drives.
Top: St-Paul de Vence
Left: Èze
Right: Harbour, Cannes




260

€5.50/free; h9.30am-1pm
& 2.30-6.30pm Tue-Sun mid-
May–mid-Sep, 10am-1.30pm
& 2.30-5pm rest of year), a
magnificent triumphal
arch built to commemo-
rate Augustus’ victory
over the last remaining
DOUGLAS PEARSON / GETTY IMAGES ©
Celtic-Ligurian tribes
who had resisted con-
quest. The views from
here are jaw-dropping,
stretching all the way
to Monaco and Italy
beyond.
The Drive »Monte Carlo may
sparkle and beckon below, but
keep your eyes on the road; the
principality will keep for another
day. Stay on the D2564 to skirt PROVENCE & SOUTHEAST FRANCE 23 RIVIERA CROSSING
Monaco for another amazing
10km, then turn right into the
D52 to Roquebrune.

6 Roquebrune-Cap-
Martin
This village of two
halves feels a world away
from the glitz of nearby
Monaco: the coastline
around Cap Martin re-
mains relatively unspoilt,
as if Roquebrune had
left its clock on medieval
time. The historic half of
the town, Roquebrune
itself, sits 300m high on
a pudding-shaped lump.
It towers over the Cap,
but they are, in fact,
linked by innumerable,
very steep steps.
The village is delight-
ful, free of tack, and
there are sensational
views of the coast from
the main village square,
place des Deux Frères.
Of all Roquebrune’s steep
streets, rue Moncollet –

261

exotic plants to flourish
7 Menton here, many of which you
Last stop on the coast can see at the Jardin
before Italy, the beautiful Botanique Exotique du
seaside town of Menton Val Rahmeh (%04 93 35
with its arcaded passages offers a glimpse of what 86 72; http://jardinvalrahmeh.
free.fr; av St-Jacques; adult/
and stairways carved the Riviera once looked child €6.50/5; h10am-
out of rock – is the like, before the high 12.30pm & 3.30-6.30pm Wed-
most impressive. Scurry rises, casinos and prop- Mon May-Aug, 10am-12.30pm
upwards to find architect erty developers moved in. & 2-5pm Wed-Mon Sep-Apr),
Le Corbusier’s grave at It’s ripe for wandering, where terraces overflow
the cemetery at the top with peaceful gardens with fruit trees, and the
of the village (in section and belle-èpoque man- beautiful, once-aban-
J, and, yes, he did design sions galore, as well as doned Jardin de la Serre
his own tombstone). an attractive yacht-filled de la Madone (%04 93 57
harbour. Meander the
The Drive »Continue along historic quarter all the 73 90; www.serredelamadone.
the D52 towards the coast, way to the Cimetière du com; 74 rte de Gorbio; adult/
following promenade du Cap- child €8/4; h10am-6pm Tue-
Martin all the way along the Vieux Château (montée du Sun Apr-Oct, to 5pm Jan-Mar,
seafront to Menton. You’ll be Souvenir; h7am-8pm May- closed Nov-Dec), overgrown
there in 10 minutes, traffic Sep, to 6pm Oct-Apr) for the with rare plants. The
permitting. best views in town.
Menton’s miniature tourist office’s garden
microclimate enables website (www.jardins-


PERFUME IN GRASSE
PROVENCE & SOUTHEAST FRANCE 23 RIVIERA CROSSING
Up in the hills to the north of Nice, the town of Grasse has been synonymous with
perfumery since the 16th century, and the town is still home to around 30 makers –
several of which offer guided tours of their factories, and the chance to hone your
olfactory skills.
It can take up to 10 years to train a perfumier, but since you probably don’t have
that much time to spare, you’ll have to make do with a crash course. Renowned
maker Molinard (%04 93 36 01 62; www.molinard.com; 60 bd Victor Hugo; 30min/1hr
workshops €30/69; h9.30am-6.30pm) runs workshops ranging from 30-minute
sessions to two hours, during which you get to create your own custom perfume
(sandalwood, vanilla, hyacinth, lily of the valley, civet, hare and rose petals are
just a few of the potential notes you could include). At the end of the workshop,
you’ll receive a bottle of eau de parfum to take home. Galimard (%04 93 09 20 00;
www.galimard.com; 73 rte de Cannes; workshops from €49; h9am-12.30pm & 2-6pm) and
Fragonard’s Usine Historique (%04 93 36 44 65; www.fragonard.com; 20 bd Fragonard;
h9am-7pm Jul & Aug, 9am-12.30pm & 2-6pm Sep-Jun) offer similar workshops.
For background, it’s also worth making time to visit the Musée International de
la Parfumerie (MIP; %04 97 05 58 11; www.museesdegrasse.com; 2 bd du Jeu de Ballon; adult/
child €4/free; h10am-7pm May-Sep, 10.30am-5.30pm Oct-Apr; c) and its nearby gardens
(%04 92 98 62 69; www.museesdegrasse.com; 979 chemin des Gourettes, Mouans-Sartoux;
adult/child €4/free; h10am-7pm May-Aug, 10am-5.30pm mid-Mar–Apr & Sep–mid-Nov, closed
mid-Nov–mid-Mar), where you can see some of the many plants and flowers used in
scent-making. Needless to say, the bouquet is overpowering.


262

menton.fr) has a list and Up in the hilltop quarter with small higgledy-
opening times. of Le Rocher, shady piggledy stone houses
Spend your second streets surround the and winding lanes (and,
night in town. Grimaldi Palace, the yes, galleries and shops).
wedding-cake castle of It’s undoubtedly delight-
54 p265 Monaco’s royal family ful but it’s the ever-
The Drive »Leave Menton (time your visit for the present views of the coast
on the D6007, the Moyenne pomptastic changing of that are truly mesmeris-
Corniche, skirting the upper the guard at 11.55am). ing. They just get more
perimeter of Monaco. When Nearby is the impressive spectacular from the
you’re ready turn off into Musée Océanographique Jardin Exotique d’Èze
Monaco, take your pick of the
car parks (they all charge the de Monaco, stocked with (%04 93 41 10 30; adult/
same rate, capped at €20 per all kinds of deep-sea child €6/2.50; h9am-7.30pm
day). Good options include the denizens. It even has a Jul-Sep, to 6.30pm Apr-May &
Chemin des Pêcheurs and Stade 6m-deep lagoon complete Jun, to 5.30pm rest of year), a
Louis II for old Monaco, or the with circling sharks. surreal cactus garden at
huge underground Casino car Round things off the top of the village, so
park by allèes des Boulingrins with a stroll around the steep and rocky it may
for central Monte Carlo.
cliffside Jardin Exotique have been purpose-built
and the obligatory photo for mountain goats. It’s PROVENCE & SOUTHEAST FRANCE 23 RIVIERA CROSSING
8 Monaco of Monaco’s harbour, also where you’ll find
the old castle ruins; take
bristling with over-the-
This pint-sized principal- top yachts. time to sit, draw a deep
ity (covering barely 200 breath and gaze, as few
hectares) is ridiculous, The Drive »Pick up where places on earth offer such
absurd, ostentatious you left off on the Moyenne a panorama.
Corniche (D6007), and follow its
and fabulous all at circuitous route back up into the Èze gets very crowded
once. A playground of hills all the way to Èze. between 10am and 5pm;
the super-rich, with if you prefer a quiet wan-
super-egos to match, it’s der, plan to be here early
the epitome of Riviera TRIP HIGHLIGHT in the morning or before
excess – especially at the 9 Èze dinner. Or even better,
famous Casino de Monte This rocky little village treat yourself to a night
Carlo, where cards turn, perched on an impossible and a slap-up supper at
roulette wheels spin and peak is the jewel in the the swish Château Eza, a
eye-watering sums are Riviera crown. The main fitting finish to this most
won and lost. attraction is technically memorable of road trips.
For all its glam, the medieval village,
Monaco’s not all show. 4 p265
















263

Eating & Sleeping / GETTY IMAGES ©



Cannes 1 Antibes 2
5 Bobo Bistro Mediterranean € 5 La Badiane Fusion €
(%04 93 99 97 33; 21 rue du Commandant (%04 93 34 45 41; 3 traverse du 24 Août; lunch
André; pizza €12-16, mains €15-20; hnoon-3pm menus €17-18.50, mains €13-15; hlunch Mon-Fri)
& 7-11pm Mon-Sat, 7-11pm Sun) Predictably, This little side street behind Antibes’ bus station
it’s a ‘bobo’ (bourgeois bohemian) crowd that has a clutch of great lunchtime restaurants,
gathers at this achingly cool bistro in Cannes’ including this exotic Moroccan-tinged diner,
fashionable Carré d’Or (Golden Sq). Decor is which serves up yummy treats like chicken tagine,
stylishly retro, with attention-grabbing objets crispy pastillas (filled pastries) and spicy quiches.
d’art like a tableau of dozens of spindles of Shame it’s only open for lunch on weekdays.
coloured yarn. Cuisine is local, seasonal and
invariably organic: artichoke salad, tuna 4 Hôtel La Jabotte B&B €€
carpaccio with passion fruit, roasted cod with (%04 93 61 45 89; www.jabotte.com; 13 av Max
mash fait masion (homemade). Maurey; d from €120; aiW) A couple of
kilometres south of the old town on the coastal bd
4 Hôtel Le James Wyllie towards Cap d’Antibes, this pretty
Mistral Boutique Hotel €€ little hideaway makes a cosy base. Hot pinks,
(%04 93 39 91 46; www.mistral-hotel.com; 13 sunny yellows and soothing mauves dominate the
rue des Belges; s €89-109, d €99-129; aW) homey, feminine decor, and there’s a sweet patio
PROVENCE & SOUTHEAST FRANC 23 RIVIERA CROSSING
For super-pricey Cannes, this little 10-roomer where breakfast is served on sunny days. There’s
is quite amazing value. Rooms are small but a minimum stay of three nights in summer.
decked out in flattering red and plum tones –
Privilege rooms have quite a bit more space,
plus a fold-out sofa bed. There are sea views Nice 4
from the top floor, and the hotel is just 50m
from La Croisette. There’s no lift, though. 5 Fenocchio Ice Cream €
(%04 93 80 72 52; www.fenocchio.fr; 2 place
4 Villa Garbo Boutique Hotel €€€ Rossetti; 1/2 scoops €2.50/4; h9am-midnight
(%04 93 46 66 00; www.villagarbo-cannes.com; Feb-Oct) There’s no shortage of ice-cream sellers
62 bd d’Alsace; d from €230; aiW) For a in the old town, but this maître glacier (master
taste of Cannes’ celeb lifestyle, this indulgent ice-cream maker) has been king of the scoops
stunner is hard to beat. Rooms are more like since 1966. The array of flavours is mind-
apartments, offering copious space, plus boggling – olive, tomato, fig, beer, lavender and
kitchenettes, king-size beds, sofas and more. violet are just a few to try. Dither too long over
The style is designer chic – acid tones of puce, the 70-plus flavours and you’ll never make it to
orange and lime contrasted with blacks and the front of the queue. For a Niçois twist, ask for
greys, supplemented by quirky sculptures and tourte de blette (a sweet chard tart with raisins,
objets d’art. Unusually, rates include breakfast. pine kernels and parmesan).







264

5 Le Bistrot
d’Antoine Modern French €€ Menton 7
(%04 93 85 29 57; 27 rue de la Préfecture; Seafood €€
menus €25-43, mains €15-25; hnoon-2pm 5 Le Cirke
& 7-10pm Tue-Sat) A quintessential French (%04 89 74 20 54; www.restaurantlecirke.
bistro, right down to the checked tablecloths, com; 1 square Victoria; menus lunch €26 & €29,
streetside tables and impeccable service – not dinner €30 & €45, mains €18-35; hnoon-
to mention the handwritten blackboard, loaded 1.30pm & 7.15-9.30pm Wed-Mon) From paella to
with classic dishes like rabbit pâté, pot-cooked bouillabaisse, grilled fish to fried calamari, this
pork, blood sausage and duck breast. If you’ve smart Italian-run restaurant is the place to turn
never eaten classic French food, this is definitely to for delicious seafood. The wine list is a mix of
the place to start; and if you have, you’re in for Italian and French wines, and the service is as
a treat. sunny as Menton itself.
4 Hôtel Le Genève Hotel €€ 4 Hôtel Napoléon Boutique Hotel €€
(%04 93 56 84 79; www.hotel-le-geneve-nice. (%04 93 35 89 50; www.napoleon-menton.com;
com; 1 rue Cassini; r €135-169; aW) Situated 29 porte de France; d €95-330; aiWs)
just off place Garibaldi, this renovated corner Standing tall on the seafront, the Napoléon is
hotel is bang in the middle of Nice’s lively Petit Menton’s most stylish sleeping option. Everything
Marais quartier. Bedrooms look sleek in cool from the pool, the restaurant-bar and the back PROVENCE & SOUTHEAST FRANC 23 RIVIERA CROSSING
greys, crimsons and charcoals; bathrooms are garden (a heaven of freshness in summer) has
modern and well-appointed. Breakfast is served been beautifully designed. Rooms are decked
in the ground-floor cafe, brimful of vintage out in white and blue, with Cocteau drawings on
bric-a-brac and mismatched furniture. Bars and headboards. Sea-facing rooms have balconies but
cafes abound here. are a little noisier because of the traffic.
4 Hôtel Villa
Rivoli Boutique Hotel €€ Èze 9
(%04 93 88 80 25; www.villa-rivoli.com; 10 rue Luxury Hotel €€€
de Rivoli; s €96, d €116-178, f €254; aW) This 4 Château Eza
charming but strangely shaped villa dates back (%04 93 41 12 24; www.chateaueza.com; rue de
to 1890, and it’s packed with period detail – la Pise; d from €360; aW) If you’re looking for
gilded mirrors, fireplaces, cast-iron balconies a place to propose, well, there can be few more
and old-world wallpapers, as well as little memorable settings than this wonderful clifftop
conifer trees on the balconies and a sweeping hotel, perched dramatically above the glittering
marble staircase. Rooms are on the small side, blue Mediterranean. There are only 12 rooms, so
and some are showing their age. There’s a small it feels intimate, but the service is impeccable,
CaptionCaptionCaptionCaption
garden and car park beside the hotel. and the regal decor (gilded mirrors, sumptuous
fabrics, antiques) explains the sky-high price tag.

















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Location Caption details to go here

JEAN-PIERRE LESCOURRET / GETTY IMAGES ©
Var Delights 24





Varied is the Var: on this drive you’ll encounter bleached cliffs,
tropical gardens, idyllic islands, pristine forests, secret beaches
and a few gorges for good measure.
TRIP HIGHLIGHTS

5 DAYS
310KM / 192 MILES
128 km
St-Tropez
Watch old men play m K Moustiers- GREAT FOR...
pétanque near place Ste-Marie
des Lices # JH


BEST TIME TO GO
95 km Early spring and late
autumn to dodge
Bormes-les-Mimosas summer tailbacks.
Wander the streets of
this atmospheric
village St-Raphaël # ESSENTIAL
l I PHOTO
L
# # 7
# Marseille # Standing on the
dazzling white cliffs
# 2 # # above the Calanque
Bandol # 5 # # # d’En Vau.
# Domaine
# du Rayol
Sanary-
sur-Mer BEST FOR
The Calanques K FAMILIES
Explore this wild and
spectacular protected Snorkelling in sapphire
area near Marseille waters at the Domaine
9 km du Rayol.
Location Caption details to go here 267
St-Tropez Boats on the harbour

1 Marseille
24 Var Delights Long dismissed as the
Riviera’s troublesome
cousin – crime-ridden,
industrial, downright
dirty – Marseille has
This is the other side of the Côte d’Azur, snazzy in enjoyed a long-overdue
spots, stark and wild in others, taking in everything renaissance since its stint
as European Capital of
from seaside towns to hilltop villages and big, busy Culture in 2013. Though
cities. While many sections of the coast have been it’s true it has a much
grittier, rough-and-ready
heavily developed (especially around the big cities feel compared to the
of Marseille and Toulon) that doesn’t mean solitude coast’s more genteel
towns, it also has charac-
is impossible to find – you can hike to deserted ter in abundance.
Take a stroll around
coves in the Calanques, explore the forested trails the Vieux Port, then
of the Massif des Maures or get well and truly lost swing by the city’s
in the wild hills of the Var.
# \ m K
#
#
9
Moustiers- Verdon Gorges du Verdon
Montagne de Luberon Durance Ste-Marie F G Haut-Var
18
# \ Cucuron
Grand
Lac de
# \ Cadenet Verdon Ste-Croix Plan de Artuby
Canjuers
Parc Naturel
Régional
Durance
du Verdon
Bois de Frannes
# \
# \ St-Cannat Gorges de
Chaîne de la Trévaresse Châteaudouble # æ
Aix-en- Draguinan # \ Gorges de Pennafort
Provence Montagne Ste-Victoire
# \
BOUCHES-
DU-RHÔNE St-Maximin- Argens
: # \ la-Ste-
: : Baume
L'Estaque VAR
l L Chaîne del'Étoile Massif de la Ste-Baume Gonfaron # \ # \
# \
Île # ^ # Marseille # \ # \ # \
Ratonneau # 1 Aubagne Gemenos
Île Pomègues
Île de # Calanques # Cassis Massif des Maures Domaine
Massif des
#
# \ #
2
3
Jarre Les Bormes-les- du Rayol
The Calanques Baie de Lecques Mimosas #
# \ #
6
Cassis
# \ #
# \
5
#
Île Île Verte Ollioules Hyères Le Lavandou # \ Corniche des Maures
Golfe de Calseraigne Bandol # \ # \ # ] #
#
4
# \
Beauduc Sanary- # \ Toulon Port
sur-Mer d'Hyères Île du # e
Presqu’île Îles d' Hyè res Levant
du Cap Sicié Mediterranean Sea

spangly Mediterranean- which once protected (www.calanques-parcnational.
themed museum, Musée the city’s harbour from fr), these craggy inlets
des Civilisations de attack. Afterwards, head run for around 20km all
l’Europe et de la Méditer- uphill to the city’s oldest the way to the seaside
ranée (MuCEM, Museum of quarter, Le Panier (from village of Cassis. They’ve
European & Mediterranean the French for basket), been protected since
Civilisations; %04 84 35 13 13; criss-crossed by graffiti- 1975, and were designat-
www.mucem.org; 7 Promenade clad alleyways, quirky ed as a national park in
Robert Laffont; adult/family/ shops and neighbour- 2014. They’re a favourite
child incl exhibitions €9.50/14/ hood cafes. Reward your- place for Marseillais to
free, 1st Sun of month free; self with a black vanilla hike and picnic; Mar-
h10am-8pm Wed-Mon Jul ice cream from Vanille seille’s tourist office runs
& Aug, 11am-7pm Wed-Mon Noire (%07 77 33 68 19; 13 regular guided hikes,
Sep, Oct, May & Jun, 11am- rue Caisserie; ice cream €2; although trails are closed
6pm Wed-Mon Nov-Apr; c; h12.30-6.45pm), then head in July and August due to
mVieux Port or Joliette), off for dinner at one of fire risk.
which helped kickstart the city’s excellent bistros Of the many calanques
the city’s revival in around rue Sainte. along the coastline,
2013. It’s attached to the the most accessible are PROVENCE & SOUTHEAST FRANCE 24 VAR DELIGHTS
formidable Fort St-Jean, 54 p274 Calanque de Sormiou and
The Drive »To get to the Calanque de Morgiou,
Calanques, follow av du Prado while remote inlets such
south from the Vieux Port; it Calanque d’En Vau and
winds up into the hills behind Calanque de Port-Miou
the city and becomes the D559, take dedication and time
the main road through the to reach – either on foot
national park. There are loads of
ALPES- places to stop, but you’ll have to or by kayak. The roads
MARITIMES into each calanque are
do some walking if you want to
see any coves. Things get very usually closed to drivers,
hot and sweaty in summer, so but a sneaky workaround
# Grasse set out early. is to make a booking at
\
one of the cove restau-
]
23
Lac de St- F G # TRIP HIGHLIGHT rants: good options are
Cassien Le Château (%04 91 25 08
Cannes # 2 The Calanques
]
Golfe de East of Marseille, a range 69; http://lechateausormiou.
Massif de l'Estérel of bone-white, parched €19-25; hnoon-2.30pm &
Napoule
fr; Calanque de Sormiou; mains
cliffs towers above glit-
7.30-9.30pm Apr-Sep) in
Fréjus # \ # Corniche de l'Estérel tering turquoise coves. Sormiou and Nautic Bar
#
8
St-Raphaël \ # Known as the Calanques (%04 91 40 06 37; Calanque
# Les Issambres
\
St-Maxime LINK
\ # Golfe de Côte d'Azur YOUR
St-Tropez
# # TRIP
\ # 7
St-Tropez
i Foothills of the n Riviera Crossing
Mediterranean Alps
Sea Cut out the gorges
From Haute-Provence on and stick to the coast for
into the wilds of the Vercors. Cannes.
# e 0 0 10 miles
20 km
269

de Morgiou; mains €18-27; the fishers unload their in summer. There’s a large car
hnoon-2.30pm & 7.30-9.30pm catch on the quayside, park on the edge of the village
May-Oct, closed Sun evening & and pick up local produce beneath the pétanque pitch.
Mon Apr) in Morgiou. at the lively Wednesday
market. TRIP HIGHLIGHT
The Drive »You’ll see signs
for Cassis not long after you 5 p274 5 Bormes-les-
drive out of the national park. Mimosas
Bandol is another 25km along The Drive »There’s no
the D559, and Sanary-sur-Mer is compelling reason to make a This 12th-century hilltop
8km further on. detour via run-down Toulon, so village is heralded for its
skip it and zoom past on the horticultural splendour:
motorway (A50, A57 and A570). dazzling yellow mimosas
3 Cassis, Bandol Take exit 7 to Hyères. in winter, deep-fuchsia
& Sanary-sur-Mer bougainvilleas in sum-
East of Marseille, the 4 Hyères mer. Generally, though,
coast road passes a The coastal town of it’s just a lovely place
handful of lovely seaside Hyères is split in two: to stop for a wander: a
villages, all with their there’s the attractive old browse around the many
own reason for a stop, town, centring around art galleries, a spot of
not least the area’s excel- a medieval castle, and souvenir shopping in the
lent wines. First comes the T-shaped peninsula, smart boutiques, or a lei-
Cassis, nestled at the home to a busy pleasure surely lunch at a village
foot of a dramatic rocky port and some fine sandy bistro. On the peninsula,
outcrop crowned by a beaches (perfect for a there’s also an 11th-
14th-century château day’s leisurely swimming century fortress to visit,
(now a hotel). Still a and sunbathing). In be- the Fort de Brégançon
working fishing port, its tween are several lagoons (www.bormeslesmimosas.com;
PROVENCE & SOUTHEAST FRANCE 24 VAR DELIGHTS
harbourside is crammed that are great for bird- Hameau de Cabasson, Bormes-
with seafood restau- watchers. But the main les-Mimosas; adult/child €10/
rants, perfect for a plate reason to visit Hyères free; h9am-7pm Jul-Sep,
of grilled sardines or a is (rather ironically) shorter hours rest of year),
copious shellfish platter. to leave: it’s the main used as a private state
Neighbouring Bandol is harbour for trips over to residence for the French
well-known for its wines, the idyllic Îles d’Hyères, president since 1968, and
too: stop in at the Maison a tiny archipelago of opened to the public in
des Vins (Oenothèque des islands fringed by white July 2014. Book a ticket
Vins du Bandol; %04 94 29 sand and criss-crossed by at Bormes’ tourist office,
45 03; www.maisondesvins- nature trails. Transport which also arranges
bandol.com; place Lucien Littoral Varois (%04 94 58 guided nature walks in
Artaud, Bandol; h10am-1pm & 21 81; www.tlv-tvm.com) runs the nearby forests.
3-6.30pm Mon-Sat, 10am-1pm ferries, including a two- The Drive »Pick up the coast
Sun), where manager island day trip (return road again (D559) and follow
Pascal Perier will happily €31.50) to Île de Port- its curves as it becomes the
give you a crash course, Cros and Le Levant. Corniche des Maures. There
and recommend local are numerous swimming spots
vineyards. Last comes 54 p274 along here, so keep your eyes
peeled and your bathing suit to
seaside Sanary-sur-Mer, The Drive »It’s an easy 21km hand. The Domaine du Rayol is
perhaps the prettiest and along the D98 to Bormes-les- clearly signed when you hit Le
most authentic of all: Mimosas, although the climb Rayol-Canadel.
here you can still watch up to the village can be trafficky


270

PACK-SHOT / SHUTTERSTOCK ©























CaptionCaptionCaptionCaption


























Le Rayol-Canadel Coastal gardens at Domaine du Rayol

271

sions, during which you and the restaurants are
6 Domaine du Rayol get to spot some of the really fabulous, if only
East of Bormes, the colourful flora and sea you weren’t picking up
coastal Corniche des life that lie beneath the the tab.
Swamped by more
Maures twists past sandy Mediterranean waves. than 100,000 visitors a
beaches and seaside The Drive »The D559
settlements like Le meanders all the way to day in summer, outside
Lavandou and Le Rayol- swish St-Tropez, although, the peak season St-
Canadel, where you’ll unfortunately, if you’re here in Tropez rediscovers its
find one of the gems summer, you’re pretty much soul. Now’s the time to
wander the cobbled lanes
guaranteed to hit jams the
of this stretch of the nearer you get to town. There’s a
coastline: the dazzling big car park by the port. in the old fishing quarter
gardens of the Domaine of La Ponche, or sip a
du Rayol (%04 98 04 44 00; pastis and watch a game
www.domainedurayol.org; av TRIP HIGHLIGHT of pétanque on lovely
place des Lices – prefer-
des Belges, Rayol-Canadel-sur- 7 St-Tropez
Mer; adult/child €10.50/7.50; Sizzling sexpot Bri- ably with a generous slice
h9.30am-7.30pm Jul & gitte Bardot came to of tarte Tropézinenne,
the town’s famous
Aug, to 6.30pm Apr-Jun, Sep St-Tropez in the ’50s
& Oct, to 5.30pm Nov-Mar), and transformed the orange-perfumed cake.
stocked with plants from peaceful fishing village 54 p274
Mediterranean climates into a jet-set favourite.
from across the globe. It’s Tropeziens have thrived The Drive »Back onto the
a riot of fragrance and on their sexy image ever our old friend again, the D559,
through Port-Grimaud and
colour, best visited in since. At the Vieux Port, Ste-Maxime, along the coast,
April and May when the yachts like spaceships and into Fréjus after 38km. Allow
flowers are in full bloom. jostle for millionaire more time than you think you’ll
PROVENCE & SOUTHEAST FRANCE 24 VAR DELIGHTS
In summer, the estate’s moorings, while out on need; traffic’s inevitable. St-
lovely beach also runs the beaches, cashed-up Raphaël is just round the bay.
guided snorkelling ses- kids dance until dawn

MASSIF DES MAURES
A wild range of wooded hills rumpling the landscape inland between Hyères and
Fréjus, the Massif des Maures is a pocket of surprising wilderness just a few
kilometres from the summer hustle of the Côte d’Azur. Shrouded by pine, chestnut
and cork oak trees, its near-black vegetation gives rise to its name, derived from the
Provençal word mauro (dark pine wood). Traditional industries (chestnut harvests,
cork, pipe-making) are still practised here, and the area is criss-crossed by hiking
trails that offer wraparound views of the coastline. From June to September, access
to many areas is limited due to the risk of forest fire, but at other times of year, it’s a
haven of peace and nature.
The leafy village of Collobrières (population 1950) is worth a detour: it’s
renowned for its chestnuts and hosts its own chestnut festival in August. The tourist
office offers guided forest walks and can point you in the direction of the Châtaignier
de Madame, the biggest chestnut tree in Provence, measuring a mighty 10.4m round.
Epic roads are ten-a-penny here: the D27 via the Col du Canadel and the
tortuous route des Crêtes nearby are the stuff of Top Gear dreams.


272

8 Fréjus & THE VILLAGE OF TORTOISES
St-Raphaël
They might not be quite About 20km north of Collobrières, this wildlife
reserve protects one of France’s most endangered
on a par with many species, the Hermann tortoise (Testudo hermanni).
of Provence’s Roman Once common along the Mediterranean coast, it
ruins, but the little town is today found only in the Massif des Maures and
of Fréjus is still worth Corsica. A viewing trail travels through the reserve
a detour if you’re an (look out for vicious-looking models of the tortoise’s
archaeology enthusiast, ancestors lurking among the bushes). Along the way,
with the remains of an you’ll also visit the tortoise clinic, where wounded
amphitheatre, Roman tortoises are treated before being re-released back
theatre and various into the wild, and the nurseries, where precious eggs
arches and portals. are hatched and young tortoises spend the first three
Even if you’re not, the of their 60 to 100 years.
old town is lovely: make In summer, the best time to see the tortoises is
sure you stop in at Le in the morning and late afternoon. Hatching season
Fromager for a gourmet is from mid-May to the end of June; from November PROVENCE & SOUTHEAST FRANCE 24 VAR DELIGHTS
tour of local cheeses. Just through early March, they’re all tucked up during
along the coast is Fréjus’ hibernation.
sister town, St-Raphaël,
a beachy, boaty kind of
place, and a good over- that feels a world away Artuby, then climb past
night base. from the chichi towns the impressive Pont
of the coast. Dry and d’Artuby, Europe’s high-
54 p275 sparsely populated, stud- est bridge, and track the
The Drive »Get the quick ded with hill villages and southern side of the gorg-
stretch along the A8 out of the riven by gorges, it makes es along a route that’s
way, exiting onto the D1555 for spectacular driving. sometimes known (ap-
northwards towards Draguignan. Your ultimate destination propriately enough) as La
Turn off onto the D955 before you is the majestic Gorges du Corniche Sublime (D955
reach town, which will take you Verdon, sometimes called to D90, D71 and D19).
via the Gorges de Chateaudouble,
and stay on the road all the way Europe’s Grand Canyon The drops are dizzying
to Comps-sur-Artuby. Here you – but it’s worth making and it’s single-file most of
turn left onto the D71 and enter a detour via one of the the way, but there aren’t
the wild, sky-high world of the lesser-known valleys, like many more memorable
Gorges du Verdon. the Gorges de Chateau- drives. Eventually, you’ll
double, 12km north of pass the emerald-green
the military town of waters of the Lac de
9 Haut-Var Draguignan. Ste-Croix before reach-
From the coast, it’s time From the coast, it’s ing the journey’s end in
to head inland into the about a 90-minute drive Moustiers-Ste-Marie.
hills of the Haut-Var, a before you enter the 54 p275
rocky, wild landscape gorges near Comps-sur-









273

Eating & Sleeping


Dimitri Droisneau, this double Michelin-starred
Marseille 1 restaurant has become one of the destination
addresses on the Riviera, renowned for its
5 Les Buffets du creative seafood and refined sea-view setting.
Vieux Port French € Top-drawer ingredients like Aubrac beef, sea
(%04 13 20 11 32; www.clubhousevieuxport. urchins, turbot and blue lobster form the core
com; 158 quai du Port; adult/child menu €23/13; of the menu. There’s a cheaper bistro on the
hnoon-2.30pm & 7.30-10.30pm; c; mVieux 1st floor that’s only open for lunch on weekdays
Port) What a great idea – a high-class, on-trend (menus €37 to €45).
self-service canteen, with a vast array of starters,
mains, salads and desserts laid out like a banquet
for diners to help themselves to. Premium cold Hyères 4
cuts, fresh seafood, bouillabaisse, mussels, fish 5 Joy Provencal €€
soup – it’s all here and more. Portside tables go
fast, but there’s plenty of room inside. (%04 94 20 84 98; www.restaurant-joy.com;
24 rue de Limans; lunch/dinner menus from
4 Hôtel Edmond €22.50/45; hnoon-1.30pm & 7-9.30pm
Rostand Design Hotel €€ Tue-Sat, noon-1.30pm Sun) In the old town, this
(%04 91 37 74 95; www.hoteledmondrostand. intimate bistro is indeed a culinary joy. Fresh,
com; 31 rue Dragon; d €99, tr €114; aiW; seasonal menus change constantly and could
mEstrangin-Préfecture) Ignore the grubby include anything from seafood-stuffed ravioli to
outside shutters of this excellent-value Logis cinnamon-spiced foie gras.
de France hotel in the Quartier des Antiquaires. 4 Hôtel Bor Boutique Hotel €€€
Inside, decor is a hip mix of contemporary
design and vintage, with a great sofa area (%04 94 58 02 73; www.hotel-bor.com; 3 allée
PROVENCE & SOUTHEAST FRANCE 24 VAR DELIGHTS
for lounging and 16 rooms dressed in crisp Émile Gérard, Hyères Beach; d from €150; hMar-
white and soothing natural hues. Some rooms Oct; aiWs) Right beside the main beach,
overlook a tiny private garden, others the this Scandi-tinged hotel is a stylish place to
Basilique Notre Dame de la Garde. stay, with its cedar-clad exterior, sun-loungers,
potted plants and seafront deck. Rooms are
4 Mama Shelter Design Hotel €€ modern and minimal with gloss-wood floors,
(%01 43 48 48 48; www.mamashelter.com; 64 rue monochrome photos and steel-grey walls.
de la Loubière; d €79-129; aW; mNotre Dame
du Mont-Cours Julien) This funky mini-chain of
design-forward hotels recently opened its outpost St-Tropez 7
in Marseille, and if you’re a cool kid in search of Cafe €
sexy sleeps, this is the address for you. It’s all 5 La Tarte Tropézienne
about the details here – Philippe Starck furniture, (%04 94 97 04 69; www.latartetropezienne.
sleek white-and-chrome colour schemes, in-room fr; place des Lices; mains €13-15, cakes €3-5;
iMacs. Smaller rooms are oddly shaped, though, h6.30am-7.30pm & noon-3pm) This newly
and it’s a walk from the old port. renovated cafe-bakery is the creator of the
eponymous sugar-crusted, orange-perfumed
cake. There are smaller branches on rue
Cassis 3 Clémenceau (%04 94 97 71 42; www.
latartetropezienne.fr; 36 rue Clémenceau;
5 La Villa Madie Gastronomy €€€ mains €13-15, cakes €3-5; h7am-7pm) and
(%04 96 18 00 00; www.lavillamadie.com; av near the new port (%04 94 97 19 77; www.
de Revestel-anse de Corton; menus €75-145, latartetropezienne.fr; 9 bd Louis Blanc; mains
mains €54-72; hnoon-1.15pm Wed-Sun & €13-15, cakes €3-5; h6.30am-7.30pm), plus
7-9.15pm Wed-Sat) Overseen by Marielle and various other towns around the Côte d’Azur.

274

5 Bistro Canaille Fusion €€ 4 Hôtel L’Aréna Hotel €€
(%04 94 97 75 85; 28 rue des Remparts; plates (%04 94 17 09 40; www.hotel-frejus-arena.
€8-24; h7-11pm Fri & Sat Mar-May & Oct-Dec, com; 145 rue du Général de Gaulle; d €63-201, tr
7-11pm Tue-Sun Jun-Sep) Probably the pick €97-253, f €104-298; aWs) One of Fréjus’s
of the places to eat in town – creative, cosy fanciest options, a traditional family hotel
and great value while still hitting the gourmet bedecked in Provençal decor complete with
heights. It’s got the soul of a bistro, but garden, pool and upmarket restaurant. The
specialises in fusion-style tapas dishes inspired duplexes are ideal for families (with two single
by the owners’ travels. More filling mains are beds on a mezzanine). Breakfast is a juicy €17.
chalked on the board. It’s on the street leading
up to the château.
4 B Lodge Hôtel Hotel €€€ Moustiers-Ste-Marie 9
(%04 94 97 58 72; www.hotel-b-lodge.com; 23 5 La Grignotière Provencal €
rue de l’Aïoli; d €200-450; hDec-Oct; aW) (%04 92 74 69 12; rte de Ste-Anne; mains €6-15;
Just downhill from the Citadelle, this swanky h11.30am-10pm May-Sep, to 6pm Feb–mid-
design pad looks old from the outside, but inside May) Hidden behind the soft pink facade of
it’s a model modern hotel: minimalist furniture, Moustiers’s Musée de la Faïence is this utterly
exposed stone walls, muted tones and all. Some gorgeous, blissfully peaceful garden restaurant.
rooms don’t have air-con – which feels stingy Tables sit between olive trees and the colourful, PROVENCE & SOUTHEAST FRANCE 24 VAR DELIGHTS
– but at least breakfast is included. Obviously eye-catching decor – including the handmade
those with balconies and Citadelle views are glassware – is the handiwork of talented,
fabulous. Prices drop significantly in winter. dynamic owner Sandrine. Cuisine is ‘picnic chic’,
meaning lots of creative salads, tapenades,
quiches and so on.
Fréjus 8
4 Ferme du Petit
5 Mon Fromager Deli € Ségriès Farmstay €
(%04 94 40 67 99; www.mon-fromager.fr; 38 (%04 92 74 68 83; www.chambre-hote-verdon.
rue Sieyès; plat du jour €13.90, 5-cheese platter com; d incl breakfast €74-84; W) Friendly
€10.90; hshop 9am-7pm Tue-Sat, lunch noon- hosts Sylvie and Noël offer five colourful, airy
2pm Tue-Sat; v) Enterprising cheesemonger rooms in their rambling farmhouse, 5km west
Philippe Daujam not only sells cheese – he of Moustiers on the D952 to Riez. Family-style
also cooks it into tasty lunches in his deli-style tables d’hôte (€30 with wine, served daily
restaurant arranged in front of the cheese except on Wednesday and Sunday) are served
counter and on the street outside. Locals flock at a massive chestnut table, or outside beneath
for the excellent-value plat du jour and can’t-go- a foliage-covered pergola in summer. Bikes are
wrong cheese platters with salad. The faux cow- available for hire (from €15 per day).
skin table mats are a fun touch, and Philippe is a
fount of fromage knowledge.

















275

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Location Caption details to go here

Southern

MATTEO COLOMBO / GETTY IMAGES ©
Seduction en #

Corse 25





From edgy urban vibe to tranquil green lanes and cliff-carved
coastline, this trip takes history fiends and culture-vultures on a
dramatic spin around the best of southern Corsica.

TRIP HIGHLIGHTS
10 DAYS
150 km 260KM / 160 MILES
Plage de Palombaggia
Slip into serene
turquoise waters on GREAT FOR…
Corsica’s most
photographed beach BJG
Ajaccio
l L m K BEST TIME TO GO
#
# Solenzara
# Spring or late summer
# #
8
to beat the crowds on
## #
# the coast road and
2
heat on the beach.
Col de Bavella
Porto-Vecchio
# Sartène # Hike below the majestic ESSENTIAL
# sawtooth spires of I PHOTO
#
5
##
Aiguilles de Bavella
The cliffs of Bonifacio
230 km
snapped afloat a boat.
## #
# BEST FOR
4
K HEART-
Filitosa Bonifacio POUNDING HIKES
Admire the handiwork Test your nerves and
of prehistoric man on fitness on the terrifying The Col de Bavella is
Corsica Aragon staircase hot, but nothing beats
50 km 130 km the hike down the king’s
staircase in Bonifacio.
C Location Caption details to go hereorsica Swimmers enjoy cliff-fringed Mediterranean waters 277

Southern 1 Ajaccio

25 Seduction en Napoléon Bonaparte’s
hometown and the
Corse
capital of France’s ravish­
ing Île de Beauté (aka
Corsica), this charismatic
Starting with your foot on the pedal in the city on the sea thoroughly
spoils with fine art in
Corsican capital, this 10-day journey ducks Palais Fesch – Musée des
and dives along the island’s most dramatic Beaux-Arts (%04 95 26 26
coastal roads and mountain passes in southern 26; www.musee-fesch.com; 50-
52 rue du Cardinal Fesch; adult/
Corse (Corsica). Mellow green hikes, gold- child €8/5; h10.30am-6pm
sand beaches and crisp turquoise waters to Mon, Wed & Sat, noon-6pm Thu,
Fri & Sun May-Sep, to 5pm Oct-
break the drive and stretch your legs are never Apr) and a beautiful bay
far away, and for archaeology buffs there’s laced with palm trees. Af­
terwards hike 12km west
# \
the added bonus of some of France’s most R # \ to Pointe de la Parata to # \ #\ # \
# \
# \
extraordinary prehistoric sites.
# \ # \ # \
0 ¸
Golfe de D81 Parc Naturel Régional 310km to
Sagone # \ Calcataggio de la Corse ‚
# \ Bastelica 0 ¸ / ·FG
T10 23
F G D69
26
l L PRUNELLI Monte Occhiato Travo # \ Travo
Prunelli
(1752m)
Ajaccio# / · Quasquara # \ Zicavo # \ R Solaro # \ m K
T40
# ^ # 1
L'ALTA
# \ Solenzara
#
9
0 ¸
Porticcio # \ c Col de St-Georges Monte Incudine ROCCA #
(2136m)
D268
Golfe 0 ¸ HAUT TARAVO R c
d'Ajaccio D302 Pila c # Col de Larone
8
Canale Col de Bavella # (608m) / ·
T10
# \ # \
Portigliolo Aullène Quenza Bavella # \ Favone
# \
# \ Petreto- # \ # \ Conca # \ Tarco
Filitosa Bicchisano Zonza # 7 # \ #
Acqua Doria # \
#
2
T40
# \ # / · Bocca Ste-Lucie
#
Bocca di c Olmeto H d'Illarata # \
Cannicio # \ Ste-Lucie Levie # \ p282 c (991m) de Porto-Vecchio
(418m) # \ de Tallano 0¸
# \ D268
Abbartello R Punta Fenaggia
(1069m)
Propriano # \ L'Ospedale # \ 0 ¸
Golfe du Valinco # \ Granace D368 Golfe de
Palavesa
# \
Campomoro # \ Sartène # # \ # Porto-Vecchio # Porto-Vecchio
3
# \ #
6
Punta
# \ Giuncheto CORSE- R # \ # Ù # di u Cerchio
(323m)
5
R DU-SUD #
Punta
/ · d'Ovace 0 ¸ # \ Sotta Plage de
T40
# \ Tizzano (1340m) D859 Palombaggia
c Bocca d'Arésia
# \ # \ Figari (69m)
M E D I T E R R A N E A N Pianattoli- / ·
T10
S E A Caldarello
c Col de Parmentile
(45m)
#
# \ #
4
Bonifacio
# e 0 0 10 miles Bouches de Bonifacio
20 km

watch the sunset turn the with olive trees, pines massive 35kg wooden
Îles Sanguinaires (Bloody and the intoxicating scent cross through town in a
Islands) vivid crimson. of maquis (herbal scrub). re­enactment of Christ’s
Later, savour drinks Visit around noon when journey to Calvary. The
beneath the stars on a the sun casts dramatic rest of the year, cross and
trendy waterfront terrace shadows on the carved 17kg penitent chain hang
at Port Tino Rossi. statues and menhirs inside Église Ste-Marie
woven around trees and (place Porta).
54 p284, p295 circling sheep pastures. Don’t leave town with­
The Drive » From Ajaccio Corsica developed its out filling your picnic
port, pick up the N193 and own megalithic faith hamper with cheese,
subsequent T40 to Bonifacio. around 4000 BC to 3000 sausage, honey and wine
After 12km turn right onto the BC, and many of the from La Cave Sartenaise
D302, direction Pila Canale (a stones at Filitosa (%04 95 (%04 95 77 12 01; www.
brown sign reads ‘Filitosa’), and
prepare for the sudden grand 74 00 91; www.filitosa.fr; D57; lacavesartenaise.com; place
view of Ajaccio city below as the €7; h9am-sunset Apr-Oct) Porta; h10am-noon & 3-6pm PROVENCE & SOUTHEAST FRANCE
road climbs. Bear right onto the date from this period. May–mid-Oct).
D255 and wind along peaceful The menhirs are particu­
green lanes via the D55, D355, larly unusual, including 4 p284
D757 and D57 to Filitosa. some with detailed faces, The Drive » From Sartène it is
anatomical features like
TRIP HIGHLIGHT rib cages, even swords southbound T40 to Bonifacio.
Slow down along the final leg –
2 Filitosa and armour. coastal views are glittering and
Nowhere is more evoca­ The Drive » Wind your way you might well want to jump out
tive of ancient Corsican back to the D57 and meander for a dip.
south to the sea along the D157
civilisation than this to join the southbound T40 just an easy one-hour drive along the 25 SOUTHERN SEDUCTION EN CORSE
archaeological site ripe north of Propriano. Count on TRIP HIGHLIGHT
about 40 minutes to cover the 4 Bonifacio
30km trip to Sartène. With its glittering har­
LINK bour, incredulous clifftop
YOUR perch and stout citadel
TRIP 3 Sartène teetering above the
With its ramshackle cornflower-blue waters
n Riviera Crossing granite houses, shaded of the Bouches de Boni-
Pop your car on shabby streets and secre­ facio, this Italianate port
the ferry in Bastia and tive alleys, this sombre is an essential stop. Sun­
sail to Nice for more town evokes the rugged bleached town houses,
mountainous, hairpin- spirit of rural Corsica, dangling washing lines
laced corniches (coastal notorious for banditry and murky chapels se­
roads) with giant blue and bloody vendettas in creted in a postcard web
views. the 19th century. of alleyways hide within
A colourful time to the old citadel, while
q Corsican Coast motor in is on Good Fri­ down at the harbour,
Cruiser
day during the Proces-
Completely smitten? sion du Catenacciu, cele­ kiosks tout must­do boat
trips through gin­clear
Motor north from Ajaccio brated since the Middle waters to Îles Lavezzi.
and up to Île Rousse to Ages. Barefoot, red­robed Park at the harbour
cruise the island’s west and cowled, the Catenac­ and walk up mon-
coast. ciu (literally ‘chained tée du Rastello and
one’; penitent) lugs a
279

montée St-Roch to the
citadel gateway with
16th­ century drawbridge.
Inside is the 13th­century MICHAEL BUSSELLE / GETTY IMAGES ©
Bastion de l’Étendard
(adult/child €2.50/free, incl
Escalier du Roi d’Aragon €3.50/
free; h9am-8pm mid-Apr–Sep,
10am-5pm rest of year) with
a history museum. Stroll
the ramparts to place
du Marché and place de
la Manichella for jaw­
dropping views of the
legendary cliffs. Then hike
down the Escalier du Roi
d’Aragon (adult/child €2.50/
free, incl Bastion de l’Étendard
€3.50/free; h9am-sunset Apr-
Oct), a steep staircase cut
into the southern cliff-face
to the water. Legend says
its 187 steep steps were
carved in a single night by
Aragonese troops during
the siege of 1420. In truth,
the steps led to an under­
ground freshwater well, in
a cave on the seashore.
54 p284
The Drive » From the harbour,
head north along the T10 towards
PROVENCE & SOUTHEAST FRANCE 25 SOUTHERN SEDUCTION EN CORSE
Porto-Vecchio. Count on about
45 minutes to cover the 35km
from Bonifacio to the Plage de
Palombaggia turn-off, signposted
on the large roundabout south of
Porto-Vecchio town proper.

TRIP HIGHLIGHT
5 Plage de
Palombaggia
When it comes to arche­
typal ‘idyllic beach’, it’s
impossible to think past
immense Plage de Palom­
baggia, the pine­fringed
beach on most Corsica
postcards. Imagine


280

Bonifacio Harbour and citadel

281

DETOUR:
PREHISTORIC CORSICA
Start: 7 Zonza
This short but startling loop dives into the heart of ancient Corsica. To create a perfect
weekend, combine it with an overnight stay at the island’s best boutique-farm spa.
From Zonza drive 9km south along the D268 to Levie, unexpected host to the
Musée de l’Alta Rocca (Site Archaéologique Cucuruzzo Capula; %04 85 78 00 78; www.
cg-corsedusud.fr/patrimoine-et-culture/musee-de-levie; av Lieutenant de Peretti, Levie; adult/
child €4/free; h10am-5pm Tue-Sat Oct-May, to 6pm daily Jun-Sep), a local history and
ethnographical museum.
Continue south along the D268 and after 3km turn right onto rte du Pianu (D20),
a narrow lane signposted ‘Cucuruzzu Capula Site Archéologique’. Soon after you
arrive at A Pignata (%04 95 78 41 90; www.apignata.com; rte du Pianu, Levie; d €200-360, ste
€280-400, all incl half-board; hlate Mar-Dec; aWs), a chic mountain retreat where you
can gorge on Alta Rocca mountain views crossed by swirling clouds from a poolside
chaise longue. Fronted by brothers Antoine and Jean-Baptiste, the farmhouse spa with
vegetable garden and pigs (and the most mouth-melting charcuterie) is first-class.
Its 18 rooms are contemporary and its restaurant (menu €40) is the best in southern
Corsica. For heaven on earth, go for the impossibly romantic tree house for two.
Next morning, continue along the same D20 road for five minutes to the Site
Archéologique Cucuruzzu Capula (Site Archaéologique Cucuruzzu Capula; %04 95 78
48 21; Levie; adult/child €4/free; h9.30am-7pm Jun-Sep, to 6pm Apr, May & Oct), 3.7km in all
from the D268. Allow two hours to explore the archaeological site. Enthralling for
kids and adults alike, an evocative 3km interpretive trail takes you on foot between
giant boulders coloured bright green with moss to the Bronze Age castelli (castles)
of Cucuruzzu and Capula. Along the way kids can duck into the earliest natural-
rock shelters used by prehistoric humans (who were small in stature) and poke
around the remaining rooms of a stronghold where, a few centuries later, they would
butcher wild boar, cooked broth, spun wool and fashioned thongs from stretched
animal skins.
PROVENCE & SOUTHEAST FRANCE 25 SOUTHERN SEDUCTION EN CORSE
Backtrack to the D268 and turn left (north) back to Levie and beyond to Zonza.

sparkling turquoise wa­ The Drive » Join rte de place that lures French
ter, long stretches of sand Palombaggia in its anticlockwise A­listers and wealthy
edged with pine trees loop around the peninsula, tourists. Its picturesque
and splendiferous views afterwards joining the busy T10 backstreets, lined with
over the Îles Cerbicale. briefly for its final sprint into restaurant terraces and
Melting into its southern Porto-Vecchio. Spend a pleasant designer shops, has
fringe are the equally hour mooching along at a charm in spades – pre­
relaxed, view-savouring pace.
picture­perfect expanses sided over with grace by
of sand and lapping shal­ the photogenic ruins of
low waters of Plage de la 6 Porto-Vecchio an old Genoese citadel.
Folacca. This irresistible Small and sleepy by
duo is sure to set your Shamelessly seductive day, Porto­Vecchio siz­
heart aflutter. and fashionable, Porto­ zles in season when its
Vecchio is the Corsican party reputation dons its
54 p284 St­Tropez, the kind of dancing shoes and lets

282

rip for a hot night out. dramatically into its hnoon-3pm & 7-9.30pm
Cafes and bars cluster heart than Zonza, a Apr-Oct) on the pass. If you
place de la République hamlet overshadowed by want to stay overnight,
and along the seafront. the iconic Aiguilles de this Corsican inn has
On the town’s southern Bavella (Bavella Needles), dorm beds (per person in­
outskirts, Via Notte (%04 granite pinnacles like cluding half­board €40).
95 72 02 12; www.vianotte.com; shark’s teeth that jab the The Drive » Steady your
rte de Porra; h8pm-5am daily skyline at an altitude of motoring nerves for relentless
Jun-Sep), with 5000­odd more than 1600m. Hiking hairpins on the perilously steep
revellers and superstar is the thing to do in this descent along the D268 from
DJs most summer nights, wild neck of the woods. the Col de Bavella to the Col de
is the hottest club in Cor­ Larone, 13km northeast, and
sica and one of the most 4 p285 onwards north through the hills
famous in the Med. The Drive » Allow up to 20 to Solenzara on the coast. Allow
minutes for the go-slow, bend- at least an hour for the entire
5 p285 laced D268 that climbs slowly 30km trip.
The Drive » Leave Porto- and scenically up from Zonza
Vecchio by the winding D368 to the mountain pass at 1218m, 9 Solenzara
and follow it through the heavily 9km north.
wooded Forêt de l’Ospédale – The town itself is not
excellent walks and picnic TRIP HIGHLIGHT particularly worthy of
spots – to the rural hamlet of a postcard home. What PROVENCE & SOUTHEAST FRANCE 25 SOUTHERN SEDUCTION EN CORSE
L’Ospédale (1000m), 18km 8 Col de Bavella gives this seaside resort
northeast. Continue on the No number of hairpins or on Corsica’s eastern
same road through more forest sheer drops can prepare coast natural appeal is
and loads more exhausting
wiggles to Zonza, 20km north you for the spectacular its handsome spread of
again. It’ll take a good hour for drama that awaits you sandy beaches and the
the entire journey. atop the Bavella Pass journey to it – one of the
(1218m), the perfect perch most stunning (and nail­
for marvelling close­up at biting) drives on Corsica.
7 Zonza the Aiguilles de Bavella. So steep and narrow is
The chances are you’ve Depending on the time the road in places that
had a temporary surfeit of day and weather, these it’s not even single lane,
of superb seascapes, so gargantuan granite while hazy views of the
take a couple of days out spikes glimmer red, gold, tantalising Mediterrane­
to explore the Alta Rocca crimson, ginger or dark an far below pose an un­
wilderness, a world away broody burgundy. nerving distraction. Once
from the bling and glitz Short and long hikes through the thick pine
of the coast. At the south are a dime a dozen, and forest of the Forêt de
of the long spine that when the drinking in Bavella, the road drops
traverses Corsica, the of outdoor action and across the Col de Larone
area is a bewildering intoxicating alpine views (608m) to eventually
combination of dense, is done, there is unforget­ meet the banks of the
mixed evergreen–decidu­ table feasting on roasted River Solenzara. When
ous forests and granite baby goat and wild pig the extreme driving
villages strung over stew at the Auberge du gets too much, pull over
rocky ledges. Col de Bavella (%04 95 72 and dip your toes in the
No mountain vil­ 09 87; www.auberge-bavella. crystal­clear river water –
lage plunges you more com; Col de Bavella, D268; there are swimming and
mains €11-23, menu €24; picnic spots aplenty.



283

Eating & Sleeping


The Domaine also offers picnic facilities and
Ajaccio 1 horse-riding excursions for guests. From
Sartène’s town square, follow the green signs
5 Le 20123 Traditional Corsican €€ 3.5km towards Granace.
(%04 95 21 50 05; www.20123.fr; 2 rue du Roi
de Rome; menu €35; h7-11pm Tue-Sun) This
fabulous, one-of-a-kind eatery started life in the Bonifacio 4
village of Pila Canale (postcode 20123, get it?), Corsican €
and when the owner upped sticks to Ajaccio, he 5 Kissing Pigs
decided to take the old village with him – water (%04 95 73 56 09; 15 quai Banda del Ferro;
pump, washing line, life-sized dolls in traditional mains €11-23, menus €20-22; hnoon-2.30pm
dress, central square and all. It may sound & 7-10.30pm Tue-Sun) Soothingly positioned by
tacky, but you won’t find many more character- the harbour, this widely acclaimed restaurant
filled places in Corsica. Everyone feasts on the and wine bar serves savoury fare in a seductively
same four-course menu, built solely from local cosy interior, complete with wooden fixtures
produce and traditional recipes, and, amazingly, and swinging sausages. It’s famed for its cheese
unchanged for 25 years. and charcuterie platters; for the indecisive, the
combination moitié-moitié (half-half) is perfect.
4 Hôtel Marengo Hotel € The Corsican wine list is another hit.
(%04 95 21 43 66; www.hotel-marengo.com; 2 Hotel €€
rue Marengo; d €78-98; hApr-Oct; aW) For 4 Hôtel Le Colomba
something near to the sand, try this charmingly (%04 95 73 73 44; www.hotel-bonifacio-corse.
eccentric small hotel. Rooms have a balcony, fr; 4-6 rue Simon Varsi; d €112-167; aW)
there’s a quiet flower-filled courtyard and Occupying a tastefully renovated 14th-century
reception is an agreeable clutter of tasteful building, this hotel enjoys a prime location on a
prints and personal objects. Find it down a cul- picturesque (steep) street, bang in the heart of
de-sac off bd Madame Mère. the old town. Rooms are simple and smallish,
but fresh and individually decorated with
4 Hôtel San Carlu Citadelle Hotel €€ amenities including wrought-iron bedsteads,
(%04 95 21 13 84; www.hotel-sancarlu.com; 8 bd country fabrics, carved bedheads and/or
Danièle Casanova; d €85-157, f €158-248; aW) checkerboard tiles. Other pluses include
PROVENCE & SOUTHEAST FRANCE 25 SOUTHERN SEDUCTION EN CORSE
Located smack opposite the citadel, this cream- friendly staff and breakfast served in a medieval
coloured town house with oyster-grey shutters vaulted cellar.
is a solid bet. Rooms are clean and modern and
views get better with every floor. Traffic noise
could be an issue for light sleepers. The family Plage de Palombaggia 5
room sleeps up to five comfortably.
5 Tamaricciu Mediterranean €€
(%04 95 70 49 89; www.tamaricciu.com; plage
Sartène 3 de Palombaggia; mains €16-32; h12.30-6pm
May–mid-Jun & Sep–mid-Oct, to 10.30pm mid-
4 Domaine de Croccano B&B €€ Jun–Aug) Among the various beach restaurants
(%04 95 77 11 37; www.corsenature.com; rte scattered along the Palombaggia sands south
de Granace/D148, km 3; d €92-120, q €142-180; of Porto-Vecchio, Tamaricciu has that hip
hJan-Nov; aW) This charming stone St-Tropez-chic touch. With its wooden decking
farmhouse, set among 10 hectares of rolling terrace and first-class views of the turquoise
maquis, makes a blissful getaway for those surf, dining really does not get better than this.
seeking end-of-the-road tranquillity. The rooms Cuisine is Mediterranean, with lots of grilled fish
are very old-fashioned but the welcome couldn’t and meat and pasta, all beautifully presented.
be warmer, and the pastoral views are stunning.


284

4 A Littariccia B&B €€ other tasty Corsican produce. Lunch platters
(%04 95 70 41 33; www.littariccia.com; rte range from light to feisty – raviolis are one
de Palombaggia; d €100-215; aWs) This of the house specialities – and desserts are
B&B’s trump card is its fabulous location, in the sumptuous.
hills overlooking Plage de Palombaggia, with a
dreamy pool. The rooms are pretty but simple
and not all come with a sea view – or wi-fi. Zonza 7
4 Le Belvédère Hotel €€€ 4 Hameau de Cavanello B&B €
(%04 95 70 54 13; www.hbcorsica.com; rte (%04 95 78 66 82; www.locationzonza.com;
de Palombaggia; d €250-300, ste €380-510; Hameau de Cavanello; s €72-87, d €79-94;
hMay-Nov; aWs) Built out of an old family hMay–mid-Oct; aWs) For a rural setting,
estate tucked between eucalyptus, palm and Hameau de Cavanello, 2km towards the Col de
pine on the seashore, this 15-room hotel is quite Bavella, has a handful of cosy rooms (equipped
divine, darling. Decor is modern and exotic: with fridges and TVs) and a pool nesting in
a gregarious mix of traditional stone, wood, hectares of green meadows and forests with
marble and wrought iron. Public areas lounge magical views of the Aiguilles de Bavella.
between natural rock and sand, and as for the 4 Chez Pierrot B&B €€
sea-facing pool, you’ll be hard-pushed to move.
Rates tumble by 50% in the low season, making (%04 95 78 63 21; www.gitechezpierrot.free.
Le Belvédère a real bargain. fr; Plateau de Ghjallicu, Quenza; dm/d incl
half-board €45/120) If you’re after a typically
Corsican atmosphere and the most tranquil PROVENCE & SOUTHEAST FRANCE 25 SOUTHERN SEDUCTION EN CORSE
Porto-Vecchio 6 location imaginable, at an altitude of about
1200m, bookmark Chez Pierrot, southern
5 A Cantina di l’Orriu Corsican € Corsica’s most idiosyncratic venture. This
(%04 95 25 95 89; www.orriu.com; 5 cours multifaceted place – gîte, B&B, restaurant
Napoléon; mains €15-29; hnoon-2pm Wed-Sun, and equestrian centre – is run by charismatic
7-10pm Tue-Sun mid-Mar–Oct) Gourmets will Pierrot, a local character who’s been living here
be in heaven at this wonderful bar à vin, its since his early childhood. It’s on Plateau de
atmospheric old-stone interior packed to the Ghjallicu, about 5km uphill from Quenza. Horse-
rafters with sausages and cold meats hung riding excursions (€45, 1½ hours) are available
up to dry, cheeses, jars of jam and honey, and April to October.
























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Location Caption details to go here

SLOW IMAGES / GETTY IMAGES ©
#
Corsican Coast

Cruiser 26





Few coastlines are as ravishing or varied as the seashore ribbon
that unfurls on this five-day trip around western Corsica. For some
daredevil action, detour inland to the island’s deepest canyon.

TRIP HIGHLIGHTS
5 DAYS
#lL
10 km Île 185KM / 115 MILES
Rousse
Algajola
# # #
2
Discover the secret cove # GREAT FOR…
# # #
3
of your dreams aboard Calvi #
the rickety Trembler # JG
20 km
Plage de l'Arinella BEST TIME TO GO
Lunch on the sand at one April to July and
of Corsica’s most coveted
beach dining spots September for quiet
roads and blue-sky
views.
# # # #
# 7 90 km
# ESSENTIAL
#
8
# #
Porto I
Cruise from Porto to PHOTO
the dazzling Réserve Snap blazing-red rock
Naturelle de Scandola
formations at Les
Calanques de Piana.
100 km 185 km BEST FOR
Les Calanques de Ajaccio K BOAT TRIPS
Piana Enjoy sweeping bay
See red, blazing red, # # # views and explore Set sail from Porto for
9
between fantastic rock m K the sights of Napoléon some of Corsica’s most
formations Bonaparte’s hometown breathtaking coastal
scenery.
C Location Caption details to go hereorsica Coastal view near Ajaccio 287

TRIP HIGHLIGHT
Corsican Coast
26 Cruiser 2 Algajola
This gloriously old-
fashioned, bucket-and-
spade address makes a
great base. Its golden-
Keep both hands firmly on the wheel during this sand beach is one of
high-drama ride along Corsica’s hairpin-laced Corsica’s longest and
loveliest, and budget
west coast. Dangerously distracting views out accommodation options
the window flit from glittering bay and bijou are superb. If your idea of
luxury is drifting off to
beach to sawtooth peak, blazing-red rock and the orchestra of crashing
maquis-cloaked mountain; while the road – waves, and frolicking on
the sand in pyjamas fresh
never far from the dazzling big blue – gives a out of bed at dawn, there
whole new spin to the concept ‘Go Slow’: you is no finer place to stay.
Next morning, jump
won’t average much more than 35km/h for the aboard the trinighellu
duration of the trip. (trembler), aka the
Tramway de la Balagne, a
dinky little seaside train
that trundles along sand-
covered tracks between
8.30pm Oct-May) and watch Île Rousse and Calvi,
1 Île Rousse old men play boules. stopping on request only
Later, take a sunset
Sun-worshippers, stroll past a Genoese at hidden coves and bijou
celebrities and holiday- watchtower and light- beaches en route.
ing yachties create buzz 54 p294
in this busy beach town house to the russet-
coloured rock of Île de
straddling a long, sandy la Pietra, from which The Drive » Continue towards
curve of land backed by the town, founded by Calvi on the coastal T30 and in
mountains and herb- Pascal Paoli in 1758, gets the centre of Lumio, 6km south
of Algajola, turn right following
scented maquis. its colourful name. Sea signs for ‘Plage de l’Arinella’.
Begin the day on Île Twist 2.6km downhill past leafy
Rousse’s central tree- kayaking (%04 95 60 22 walled-garden residences
shaded square, place 55; www.cnir.org; rte du Port; secondaires to the turquoise
Paoli, overlooked by the h9am-6pm Jul & Aug, by water lapping onto Plage de
arrangement Sep-Jun) around
21 classical columns of l’Arinella.
the Greek Temple–styled the promontory and its is-
lets is an outdoor delight.
food market, built TRIP HIGHLIGHT
around 1850. Get lost in 54 p294
the rabbit warren of old- 3 Plage de
town alleys around the The Drive » From the l’Arinella
roundabout at the western end
square, and at noon sip a of town, pick up the T30 towards If there is one crescent of
pre-lunch aperitif on the Calvi; buy fresh fruit for the sand in Corsica you must
terrace of venerable Café journey from the open-air stall not miss, it’s this serene,
des Platanes (place Paoli; signposted ‘Marche Plein Air’ on rock-clad cove with one
h6am-2am Jun-Sep, 7am- the roundabout. of Corsica’s finest beach
288

10 km
# e 0 0 5 miles restaurants and dramatic
M E D I T E R R A N E A N l L views of the citadel of
S E A Calvi. Lunch here is a
trip highlight.
Île Rousse # 1 # ] #
/ ¼ From the stylish,
T30
Algajola shabby-chic interior of Le
# ] #
# # \ Pigna Matahari (%04 95 60 78 47;
2
# \
Plage de l’Arinella # \ Lumio # \ www.lematahari.com; Plage
# ] #
3
Calvi # # \ Cateri de l’Arinella; mains €25-35;
# ] #
4
# / ¼
T30
# ] #
5
Pointe de la # Feliceto # \ hnoon-3pm mid-Apr–Sep,
Ravelleta 7-10.30pm Tue-Sun late May–
# \
LA BALAGNE mid-Sep) to the big win-
0 ¸ Calenzana dows looking out to Calvi
# \
D81B
Figarella
Suare # \ beyond the waves, this
hip beach spot is one very
# \
Baie de # \ Argentella special hideaway. Wooden
Crovani # \ Ferayola tables, strung on the sand
and topped with straw
FILOSORMA parasols, immediately
# \
Galeria # \ Le Fango # \ evoke a tropical paradise,
Haut while cuisine is crea- PROVENCE & SOUTHEAST FRANCE 26 CORSICAN COAST CRuISER
/ · Asco tive – think penne à la
D81
Parc Naturel
# \
Girolata # \ Régional langouste (lobster), squid,
de la Corse fresh morue (codfish) or
# ] #
6
# # \ Curzu a simple tuna steak pan-
# \
Col de # \ Portinellu Vergio fried to pink perfection.
la Croix Porto Gorges de Spelunca # \
Golfe de Porto The Drive » Motor back up
Les Calanques # ] # # 7 # ] # # \ Ota # \ Évisa Cristinacce the hill to join the coastal T30
8
#
de Piana # H # \ and continue south for another
# \ p292 # \
Piana Marignana
Soccia # \
/ · LINK
D81
Vico # \ # \ Murzo YOUR
# \ Muna # \ TRIP
Cargèse # \ # \ Var Delights
/ · # \ Sagone Salice o
D81
Sail by car ferry to
Marseille and enjoy the
Golfe de # \
Sagone Tiuccia Sant' Andrea- coastal treasures of the Var.
# \
d'Orcino
# \ p Southern
# \ Calcataggio Seduction en Corse
Corsica is so seductive you
/ · Afa might well find yourself
D81
# \ extending your trip with this
Castagnola # \
PRUNELLI 10-day motor from Ajaccio
Prunelli around the island’s southern
tip to Porto-Vecchio on the
m K
# ^ #
Ajaccio # east coast and beyond.
9
# \
‚ Porticcio
F G Golfe # \
24
d'Ajaccio F G
300 km to 25 289
# \
# \

15 minutes, around the Golfe de square shaded by rare Ombu
Calvi, to Calvi. The best spot to trees with gnarled and knotted
park is at the top of town, across trunks, and sweet honey-
from the entrance to the citadel. producing flowers. BRUNO DE HOGUES / GETTY IMAGES ©


4 Calvi 5 Pointe de la
Basking between the Revellata
fiery orange bastions of Within seconds of leav-
its 15th-century citadel ing town, you’re deep
and the glittering waters in the hot sun-baked
of a moon-shaped bay, maquis (herbal scrub-
Calvi feels closer to the land), with a low stone
chichi sophistication of wall being the only
a French Riviera resort separator between white-
than a historic Corsican knuckled passenger
port. Palatial yachts and and green drop down
private cruisers jostle for to emerald water below.
space along its harbour- After 4km the magnifi-
side, while high above cent cape of Pointe de la
the quay the watchtow- Ravelleta – the nearest
ers and battlements Corsican point to the
of the town’s Genoese French mainland – pops
stronghold stand guard, into view, with a toy-like
proffering sweeping white lighthouse at its
views inland to Monte tip and dusty walking
Cinto (2706m). trails zigzagging between
Set atop a lofty the scrub and the ocean.
promontory, Calvi’s Park and indulge in a
massive fortified citadel signposted 1.5km hike to
has fended off everyone Chapelle Notre Dame de
PROVENCE & SOUTHEAST FRANCE 26 CORSICAN COAST CRuISER
down the centuries, from la Serra or a 20-minute
Franco-Turkish raiders to sea-bound stroll for lunch
Anglo-Corsican armies. at Mar A Beach (%06 33
Wraparound views from 62 17 64; Plage de l’Alga; mains
its five feisty bastions €12-25; hrestaurant noon-
certainly have the wow- 4pm May-Oct, bar noon-7pm
factor, and Chez Tao (www. May-Oct), a Robinson
cheztao.com; rue St-Antoine; Crusoe–style beach hut in
h6pm-5am Jun-Sep), a wild- a turquoise-water creek.
ly hip and lavish music
bar around since 1935, is The Drive » Continue south
the spot to lap them up, on the D81B. After the champ
de tir (military shooting range),
cocktail in hand.
savour a brief reprieve from
54 p294 the big coastal views as the
road ducks inland between
The Drive » Across from the the mountainous 703m hulk
citadel, pick up the coastal road of Capu di a Veta and fields of
D81B signposted ‘Rte de Porto – grazing sheep. At the first road
Bord de Mer’. Before driving fork, 35km south of Calvi, bear
off, don’t miss the old shabby right along the D81 signposted

290

Calvi The 15th-century citadel towers over the town

291

DETOUR:
GORGES DE SPELUNCA
Start: 7 Porto
If you crave a break from blue, head inland to the hills to Ota and Évisa, a twin
set of enigmatic mountain villages that dangle defiantly above a plunging canyon
blanketed with thick woods of pine, oak and chestnut. Quintessentially Corsican,
these magical mountain hideaways are a haven for hikers, positioned halfway along
the Mare e Monti hiking trail and within striking distance of Corsica’s answer to
the Grand Canyon, the unforgettable Gorges de Spelunca.
Until the D84 was carved out from the mountainside, the only link between the
two villages was a tiny mule track via two Genoese bridges, the Ponte Pianella (also
called Ponte Vecchju) and Ponte Zaglia. The trail between the villages is a fantastic
day hike (five hours return), winding along the valley floor past the rushing River
Porto and soaring orange cliffs, some more than 1km high. Or follow the shorter
two-hour section between the bridges; pick up the trail at the arched road-bridge
2km east of Ota.
Carpeting the slopes east of Évisa is Forêt d’Aïtone, home of Corsica’s most
impressive stands of laricio pines. These arrow-straight, 60m-high trees once
provided beams and masts for Genoese ships.
South of Porto, the D84 wiggles direct to Évisa, 22km east and a good 30 minutes
of go-slow, blind-bend driving. Or opt for the narrower, slower D124 to the north that
detours to the village of Ota before hooking up with the same D84.



‘Galeria 5km, Porto 49km’, and and sun-fuelled siesta for walking trails lead down-
at the second fork, bear left. Col de la Croix (260m), hill to the seaside hamlet
about 10km further south. of Girolata (1¾ hours,
Park in the car park 7km) and to Plage de
PROVENCE & SOUTHEAST FRANCE 26 CORSICAN COAST CRuISER
6 Col de la Croix and pick up the dusty Tuara (45 minutes, 3km).
Having driven for a good footpath behind the The Drive » Count on a
hour around relentless snack bar signposted good half-hour of relentlessly
hairpins, you might be ‘Panorama – Table bend-laced motoring to cover
tempted to stop on Col d’Orientation’. Climb- the 25km from Col de la Croix
de Palmarella (405m), a ing gently uphill for 20 south to Porto. The final five
mountain pass with fine minutes through typical minutes reward you with a
views of the W-shaped Corsican maquis, the sudden narrowing of the road
bay of the Golfe de Giro- path suddenly staggers and dramatic roadside rock
lata far below. Pull over out of the Mediterranean formations that flame a brilliant
red. Go even slower than slow.
to photograph the blazing bush into a mind- blowing
blue Mediterranean en- panorama of fiery red and
snared by the flaming-red smouldering black-green TRIP HIGHLIGHT
rock of Punta Rossa, the capes, blue bay and the 7 Porto
dollhouse-sized hamlet spaghetti road you’ve suc- The crowning glory of
of Girolata tucked in the cessfully navigated to get the west coast, Porto
creek of the bay, and the here. An orientation table sits sweet at the foot of
menacing dark green of tells you what’s what. a thickly forested valley
forested Capo d’Osani. Back at the roadside trammelled on either side
But save the picnic lunch buvette (snack bar), longer

292

by crimson peaks. Split iconic, awe-inspiring culture, stroll the marina
by a promontory, the sights. And as you sway and trendy beach-clad
village itself is topped around switchback rte des Sanguinaires
by a restored Genoese after switchback along area, and congratulate
tower (€2.50; h9am-6pm the rock-riddled 12km yourself on arriving in
mid-Apr–mid-Oct) built stretch of the D81 south the city – several hun-
in the 16th century to of Porto towards the dred hairpin bends later
protect the gulf from village of Piana, one – in one piece!
Barbary incursions. mesmerising vista piggy Napoléon Bonaparte
Scale the russet-coloured backs another. was born here in 1769,
rocks up to the square For the full techni- and the city is dotted
tower, take in the tiny colour experience of with sites relating to the
local-history exhibition this natural ensemble diminutive dictator. The
inside, then stroll to the of gargantuan propor- Salon Napoléonien (%04
bustling marina where tion, park up and savour 95 51 52 62; www.musee-fesch.
a footbridge crosses the Les Calanques on foot. com; Hôtel de Ville, av Antoine
estuary to a eucalyptus Several trails wind Sérafini; adult/child €2.50/
grove and pebble beach. their way around these free; h9-11.45am & 2-5.45pm
April to October, boats dramatic rock formations Mon-Fri mid-Jun–mid-Sep, to
sail from the marina to unwittingly shaped like 4.45pm rest of year) displays
the shimmering seas dogs’ heads, dinosaurs Napoléonic medals, por- PROVENCE & SOUTHEAST FRANCE 26 CORSICAN COAST CRuISER
around the magnifi- and all sorts; trails start traits, busts and a fres-
cent, Unesco-protected near Pont de Mezzanu, coed ceiling of Napoléon
marine reservation of a road bridge on the D81 and entourage; and his
the Réserve Naturelle de about 3km north of Piana. childhood home is now
Scandola. Afterwards, splurge on the Maison Bonaparte
lunch at Corsica’s most (%04 95 21 43 89; www.
54 p294 mythical hotel, Les musees-nationaux-
The Drive » Cruise 12km Roches Rouges (%04 95 napoleoniens.org; rue
south along the same coastal 27 81 81; www.lesrochesrouges. St-Charles; adult/child €7/
D81 towards the village of Piana. com; D81; s €130, d €125-145; free; h10.30am-12.30pm &
When you see red you know hApr-Oct; aW). 1.15-6pm Tue-Sun Apr-Sep, to
you’ve hit the next stop. 4.30pm Oct-Mar).
The Drive » Driving drama
done with, it is a relatively easy The Oscar for most
8 Les Calanques de 70km drive south along the fascinating museum
goes to Ajaccio’s fine arts
Piana D81 to the Corsican capital of museum, established by
Ajaccio.
No amount of hyperbole Napoléon’s uncle, inside
can capture the aston- TRIP HIGHLIGHT Palais Fesch (%04 95 26
ishing beauty of these 26 26; www.musee-fesch.com;
sculpted cliffs teetering 9 Ajaccio 50-52 rue du Cardinal Fesch;
above the Golfe de Porto. Corsica’s capital is all adult/child €8/5; h10.30am-
Rearing up from the sea class – and seduction. 6pm Mon, Wed & Sat, noon-
in staggering scarlet pil- Commanding a lovely 6pm Thu, Fri & Sun May-Sep,
lars, teetering columns, sweep of the bay, the to 5pm Oct-Apr). France’s
towers and irregularly city breathes confidence largest collection of Ital-
shaped boulders of pink, and has a real whiff of ian paintings outside the
ochre and ginger, Les the Côte d’Azur. Mosey Louvre hangs here.
Calanques flames red around the centre with
in the sunlight and is its mellow-toned build- 54 p284, p295
among Corsica’s most ings and vibrant cafe

293

Eating & Sleeping


place du Château; mains €12-20, menus €20-25;
Île Rousse 1 hnoon-2.30pm & 7-10.30pm Apr-Sep) comes
equally recommended for its sunny, reliable
5 A Casa Corsa Corsican € Mediterranean cuisine.
(%04 95 60 23 63; 6 place Paoli; sandwiches &
salads €5-10; h8am-11pm Tue-Sun mid-Mar–
Oct; v) With a prime location on the gorgeous Calvi 4
place Paoli, this wine bar makes a brisk trade Corsican €€
in salads, cheese and charcuterie platters and 5 A Candella
other stalwart Corsican fare. As expected, (%04 95 65 42 13; 9 rue St-Antoine; mains
the wine selection, including by the glass, and €16-25; hnoon-2pm & 7-10pm mid-May–Sep)
advice is excellent and all Corsican. One of a handful of addresses at which to eat
within the citadel, A Candella stands out for its
4 L’Escale Côté Sud Hotel €€ romantic, golden-hued terrace of stone strung
(%04 95 63 01 70; www.hotel-ilerousse.com/ with pretty flowers in pots and olive trees. The
escale-cote-sud; 22 rue Notre-Dame; r €95-195) food is Corsican hearty, and the sea view is the
Open year-round, this centrally located, recently most marvellous you could hope for.
remodelled three-star with attached restaurant Corsican €€
is an excellent midrange option, especially if you 5 U Casanu
can snag one of the four sea-facing rooms with (%04 95 65 00 10; 18 bd Wilson; mains €15-22;
dreamy views of limpid turquoise waters lapping hnoon-1.30pm & 8-10pm Mon-Sat Jan-Oct) For
the beach across the street. an unforgettable lunch, grab a booth at this cosy
hole-in-the-wall, decorated in cheery yellow and
green, and hung with watercolours painted by
Algajola 2 septuagenarian artist-owner Monique Luciani.
Tuck into home-cooked fish couscous, roast
5 Le Padula Seafood, Pizza €€ lamb, codfish aioli or octopus salad, and don’t
(%04 95 60 75 22; Plage d’Aregno; pizza from miss the exquisite fiadone, a classic Corsican
€10, mains €15-24; h8am-11pm Easter-Oct) cheesecake made with lemon-scented brocciu
PROVENCE & SOUTHEAST FRANCE 26 CORSICAN COAST CRuISER
Spectacular views and tasty, unpretentious food cheese soaked in eau de vie (brandy).
are the twin drawcards at this informal beach 4 Hôtel Le Magnolia Hotel €€
terrace restaurant on Plage d’Aregno, just east
of Algajola. The menu ranges from pizza (served (%04 95 65 19 16; www.hotel-le-magnolia.com;
day and night) to the daily plat du jour (€14.90) rue Alsace Lorraine; d €110-155; hApr-Oct;
to classic seafood snacks like moules marinière aW) An oasis from the harbourside fizz, this
(mussels cooked with garlic, shallots and white attractive mansion sits behind a beautiful high-
wine) and friture de calamars (fried squid). walled courtyard garden pierced by a handsome
magnolia tree. Pretty much every room has a
4 U Castellu B&B €€ lovely outlook – Calvi rooftops, garden or sea –
(%04 95 36 26 13; www. and connecting doubles make it an instant hit
ucastelluchambresdhotes.com; 8 place du with families.
Château; d €90-166; hApr-Oct; aW) U
Castellu will win you over with its location
on the village’s square in the shade of the Porto 7
ancient castle. Set in an old village home, the Corsican €€
five rooms are a wonderful blend of old and 5 Le Maquis
new. Maud’s welcome is another drawcard, (%04 95 26 12 19; cnr D124 & D81; mains €19-24,
as is the panoramic rooftop terrace where menus €23-25; hnoon-2pm & 7-10pm, closed
the copious buffet breakfast is served. The Dec) This character-filled eatery in a granite
adjoining restaurant (%04 95 60 78 75; 10 house high above the harbour is much loved by


294

locals and tourists alike. The food’s a delight, views complement the exquisite gastronomic
with a tempting menu based on traditional creations of the Mezzacqui brothers (Jean-
Corsican cooking. Sit in the cosy wood-beamed Pierre front of house, David powering the
interior or reserve a table on the balcony for kitchen), from crispy minted prawns with
brilliant views. pistachio cream to pork with honey and
clementine zest.
4 Hôtel-Restaurant
Le Belvédère Hotel €€ 4 Hôtel Demeure
(%04 95 26 12 01; www.hotelrestaurant- Les Mouettes Boutique Hotel €€€
lebelvedere-porto.com; Porto Marine; r €65-135, (%04 95 50 40 40; www.hotellesmouettes.fr; 9
q €116-146; W) Brilliantly located down by cours Lucien Bonaparte; d €170-520; hApr-Oct;
Porto’s harbour, near the steps to the Genoese aWs) This peach-coloured 19th-century
watchtower, this small hotel has many rooms colonnaded mansion right on the water’s edge
with direct sea views, including some with is a dream. Views of the bay of Ajaccio from
private terraces. Family rooms sleep up to five, the (heated) pool and terrace are exquisite:
with a double bed, two bunks and a trundle bed. dolphins can often be spotted very early in the
morning or in the evenings. Inside, the decor
is one of understated elegance and service is
Ajaccio 9 four stars.
5 L’Altru Versu Bistro €€ 4 Hôtel Marengo Hotel €
(%04 95 50 05 22; rte des Sanguinaires; mains (%04 95 21 43 66; www.hotel-marengo.com; 2 PROVENCE & SOUTHEAST FRANCE 26 CORSICAN COAST CRuISER
€20-29; h12.30-2pm Thu-Mon & 7.30-10.30pm rue Marengo; d €78-98; hApr-Oct; aW) For
daily mid-Jun–mid-Oct, 12.30-2pm Thu-Tue & something near to the sand, try this charmingly
7.30-10.30pm Mon, Tue & Thu-Sat rest of year) eccentric small hotel. Rooms have a balcony,
A phoenix rising from the ashes, this perennial there’s a quiet flower-filled courtyard and
favourite reopened in 2015 on Ajaccio’s western reception is an agreeable clutter of tasteful
waterfront after suffering two devastating prints and personal objects. Find it down a cul-
winter storms and a fire. Magnificent sea de-sac off bd Madame Mère.





























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Location Caption details to go here

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RAIMUND LINKE / GETTY IMAGES ©


The Camargue 27





Take this semicircular tour from Arles to the coast and loop back
again to experience Provence at its most wild, lush and lovely.
Welcome to a watery, dreamlike landscape that’s like no other.

TRIP HIGHLIGHTS


35 km J 4 DAYS
%
190KM / 118 MILES
Stes-Maries-
de-la-Mer # 1 # # # 0 km
A 12th-century church GREAT FOR…
houses the town’s Arles
namesakes Home to Provence's JG
hippest square
BEST TIME TO GO
May, July and
September – if you
Étang de Vaccarès # #
# Le Sambuc like it hot and can
handle mosquitoes.
# # #
5
# ESSENTIAL
I
# PHOTO
# # #
3
Point de Vue for its
105 km salty backdrop and
Le Point # #
Salin de Badon de Vue flamingos taking flight.
Flamingos swoop over
wetlands as you walk
# 7 # # # BEST FOR
125 km K ROMANTICS
Plage de Piémanson Dinner by the hearth
End-of-the-earth feel in the timber-beamed
with miles of 17th-century kitchen of
windswept beach
Mas de Peint.
P Location Caption details to go herearc Ornithologique de Pont de Gau Wading flamingos 297

TRIP HIGHLIGHT
27 The Camargue 1 Arles
Befitting its role as
gateway to the Camargue,
Arles has a delightfully
insouciant side. Long
Leave Arles and the highway behind and home to bohemians of
suddenly you’re surrounded by the Camargue’s all stripes, it’s a great
place to hang up your
great yawning green, and an equally expansive sightseeing hat for a few
sky. It won’t be long until you spot your first languorous hours (or
days). Soak it in from
field of cantering white horses, or face off with the legendary bar at the
a black bull. This is not a long trip, but one that Hôtel Nord-Pinus, with its
bullfighting trophies and
will plunge you into an utterly unique world of enthralling photography
cowboys, fishers, beachcombers, the Roma and collection, or pull up a
table on lively place Paul
all their enduring traditions. Doumer, where Arles’
# \ # \ Tarascon


10 km
# e 0 0 5 miles ‚
F G F G 30km to
21
21
D17
Le Moulin Rhône / · # \ F G
des Costières # \ / · Fourques Fontvieille Maussane- 22
J
A54
# \ Vauvert # \ # ] # % les-Alpilles
St-Gilles # 1
0 ¸ # \ Mas du Arles
D6572
Pont de 0 ¸
Rousty
0 ¸ # \ / · N113
D36
D570
# \
Gageron
# Villeneuve BOUCHES-
H
D58
D37
# \ p302 / · Petit Rhôn e Mejanes # \ / · # \ Grand Rhône DU-RHÔNE
Aigues-Mortes 0 ¸ de Vaccarès 0 ¸
Étang
D36B
D38C
# \ #
Étang de Vaccarès#
4
# 0 ¸
#
9
# \ Le Sambuc
N568
0 ¸
D85A
Parc Ornithologique # Salin de
#
2
# \ #
5
de Pont de Gau Badon # / ·
D36
Parc Naturel
# Régional de
# \
#
3
Stes-Maries- Camargue Le Point
de-la-Mer Étang du de Vue
Fangassier Salin de # \ # Port St-Louis
8
#
Giraud 0 ¸ du Rhône
Golfe de Beauduc Pointe du D36D # \
#
6
Sablon Domaine de la Palissade#
Étang de Galbert
Plage de#
# 7
MEDITERRANEAN
SEA Piémanson