Lonely Planet Europe’s Best Trips (Travel Guide)

EUROPE’S PDF


BEST TRIPS




40 AMAZING
ROAD TRIPS



PDF ebook
Edition 1st Edition
Release Date Mar 2017
Pages 596
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1 PLAN YOUR TRIP

Start your planning here – We reveal the ultimate road trip list for Europe PLUS
the highlights you’ll discover on the way and practical advice to kick-start your trip…
IRYNA1/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
France seduces with a somehow
Europe ’s best sights and
familiar culture woven around
experiences, and the road trips AGNIESZKA SKALSKA/SHUTTERSTOCK © IOAN PANAITE/SHUTTERSTOCK © Ireland Great Britain France
From cliff -backed shores and
quaint villages, to historic
The emerald isle delivers
markets and lace-curtained
that will take you there. EUROPE picture-postcard views monuments and wild, wild cafe terraces, village-square
moors., Britain boasts everything
bistros where the plat du jour is
that are brooding,
dramatic and delightful
world-class art, architecture and
IF YOU BY REGION in turn. It’s a place to from Georgian architecture to chalked up outside. Here too  nd
21st-century art.
revel in scenery, history,
delightfully scenic drives.
music- lled pubs and the
stillness of village life.
EUROPE LIKE
HIGHLIGHTS Outdoor activities Alpine mountains along the Grossglockner Road Germany
through churning whirlpools, vast
Wine tasting Douro Valley History Food & Wine Here the majestic Rhine snakes
and culinary traditions,
And all around storybook castles
present. Everywhere lies
Architecture Great Views Art Renaissance glories, Outdoor In Europe the past is ever With its superb produce These nine glorious countries vineyards and medieval villages.
Activities
Europe is a food- and
crown jagged cliff s.
Boasting an unparalleled sun-kissed shores, majestic Impressionist playground extraordinaire heritage stretching back destination. Here you characters – each as irresistible
evidence of an enthralling
Europe is an adventure
have dramatically diff erent
Awe-inspiring mountains,
wine-lover’s dream
architectural legacy,
masterpieces, modernist
thousands of years – from
river valleys, vine-etched
with landscapes that make
Italian Lakes Europe is home to some hills – Europe can claim marvels, landmark pretty much any activity stone circles and Greek can dine al fresco in a and as exciting as the next. What
medieval piazza, feast on
of the world’s most
museums – Europe’s
possible. Hike mountain
superb landscapes linked
temples to battle elds,
Switzerland is simply spectacular,
Italy’s northern lakes are celebrated masterpieces by ribboning roads. These astonishing artistic trails, surf gorgeous chateaux, cathedrals and seafood in a historic port, to do and where do go? Here’s Switzerland
simply sublime. The most Romanesque cathedrals, are truly unforgettable linger long in the memory beaches, go summer-time seam stitched through the in a Spanish bodega. your guide to getting the very with dazzling scenery at every
castles. This history is a
or nibble on cured meats
legacy is guaranteed to
in building design.
best experiences from each
skiing, windsur ng and
picturesque and least
drives.
3 Tuscan Wine Tour
baroque palaces,
turn: pristine lakes, lush
after you get home.
visited is Lago di Como
(Lake Como); a highlight of timbered cottages, ancient 4 Amalfi Coast Italy’s From Michelangelo to white-water rafting – our entire continent and our Savour  ne dining in country and its road trips. meadows, snow-dusted Alps. Add
trips unravel the stories
Georgian cities, half-
Trip 2: The Graceful Italian
Picasso, Europe is a sheer
adrenaline-laced trips
cosmopolitan cities and you have
most celebrated shore is a
enable it all.
indulgence for art-lovers
Chianti’s picturesque
for you.
a country making it easy to drive
up – simply sublime views.
creations – the wealth of
Lakes, a scenic jaunt around monuments, cutting-edge classic Mediterranean pin- and a feast for the eyes. g Britain’s Wild Side 5 World Heritage vineyards. d Champagne Taster deep into its heart.
Lakes Maggiore, Orta and
Como. Set in the shadow of buildings arrayed here will j Royal Highlands & 1 Grand Tour Take in A fresh-air fuelled tour of Wonders Rome’s
the Rhaetian Alps, Lago di be a memorable part of Cairngorms A sweep of Leonardo’s The Last Supper, Britain’s best wilderness Colosseum and Verona’s Chefs cook up a storm while
Como’s banks are speckled your trip. majestic mountains and Botticelli’s The Birth of spots, including eight Arena; a classic cross- cellars echo to the sound of Portugal
with Liberty-style villas e Châteaux of the Loire Venus, Michelangelo’s David gloriously diverse National country drive. popping corks. Portugal’s mix of the medieval
Queen’s Scottish summer
and fabulous landscaped Resplendent châteaux line pine forests encircles the and so much more. Parks. 9 D-Day’s Beaches v Roving La Rioja Wine and the maritime makes Austria
gardens that burst into and May. the banks of the Loire, each o Ring of Kerry Virtually r Mediterranean x Alentejo & Algarve The events of D-Day still Region Bodegas, quality of a sometimes turbulent past White-knuckle Alpine passes
touring a real treat. The legacy
one more extravagant than
eateries and vineyards to
resonate along Normandy’s
blushing colour in April
home.
Meander See artwork
Beaches Portugal’s south-
includes medieval castles, vine-
usher in a wealth of adrenaline
Irish drive reveals a vista
to windsur ng and white-water
cities. Meanwhile, the pounding
memorials explain why.
Trip 2 the last. h The Historic South every corner on this iconic by Spanish greats, from coast stunner, off ering shores; the museums and the horizon. lined terraces and captivating sports, from year-round skiing
w Douro Valley
Picasso in Malaga to Catalan
cliff -backed shores, seaside
Three of England’s most worthy of a postcard. giants in Barcelona. ~ Grossglockner Road h The Historic South Vineyard Trails Northern Atlantic has sculpted a coast of Spain Italy Epicentre of the Roman rafting, while pretty castles and
villages and great surf.
dense forests frame the majestic,
Portugal’s culinary corner
Britain’s Stonehenge,
spectacular cathedrals,
| The Swiss Alps All
} Geneva to Zürich Rich
glorious sandy bays.
plus London, and Bath’s the big names are here: and diverse art collections A feat of 1930s Austrian UNESCO-city Bath, sublime boasts sublime views and Passionate, sophisticated and Empire and birthplace of the mighty Danube.
Georgian city-scape. Matterhorn, Eiger, Jungfrau, dot this mountanous route engineering, this road cathedrals and Napoleonic- red wines. devoted to living the good life, Renaissance, this sun-kissed
swings giddily around 36
Spain showcases sun-baked plains
– encompassing everything
era ships combine for a truly
t Northern Spain
Italian Lakes Varenna, Lago di Como Pilgrimage Showcasing Schilthorn, Titlis and Mönch. from the Renaissance to switchbacks – opening up historic drive. and glittering shores, it also virtuoso serves up sublime music,
food and wine.
enables leisurely discoveries of
mountain activities galore.
11 a string of ancient chapels Cubism. 21 heritage, food, wine and art. 23
medieval villages and some
stunning cathedrals.
10 20 22
Trip Highlights The best Inspiration Pick out Europe by Region Choose
experiences and the road the trips that best suit where to begin your
trips to take you there. your style. road-trip adventure.
2 ON THE ROAD
40 amazing road trips – Inspirational images, local knowledge, special detours,
easy-to-read colour maps, expert advice and ways to link different trips together.
98km to Adda
a Modica # Locarno ] ‚ F G Gravedona \ # Colico
Modica is a wonder- Malesco 0 ¸ SS337 # \ Ascona SWITZERLAND 37 Lago di Como # \ R
fully atmospheric town ANDY CHRISTIANI / GETTY IMAGES © Melezzo # \ 0 ¸ Rezzonico # 9 \ (2609m) Legnone Monte Parco Regionale degli
with medieval build-
Orobie Valtellinesi
ings climbing steeply
IMAGESEF/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
up either side of a deep Falmenta SS631 Valle Cannobina Cannobio # \ # # 3 0 ¸ E35 A2 0 ¸ Cassarate Menaggio \ Á SS340dir # À
gorge. But unlike some Nazionale Parco Lago di SS340 \ # # Varenna # 8
BARRY WINIKER/GETTY IMAGES ©
of the other Unesco- Val Grande # Luino Lugano Cadenabbia # \ # 8 # \ # 6 # # \ Bellagio
listed cities in the area, it 38 À 8 SS34 \ Tremezzo Lenno 8 # # 7 \ Parco
doesn’t package its treas- The Graceful Lago di À Pioverna Bergamasche Regionale
ures into a single easy- Mergozzo # Ghiffa Parco SS583
to-see street or central Geneva to Zürich 2 Italian Lakes Verbania \ San Grato Botanico Monte 0 ¸ R
] #
piazza: rather, they are Baveno 0 ¸ SS33 \ À # 8 SS34 \ 2 # # # 9 # Laveno \ Breggia Bisbino Monte (1325m) San Primo (1685m) SS583 Enna Brembo
spread around the town ITALY 6 WONDERS OF ANCIENT SICILY Connect the dots between Switzerland’s two biggest cities on a trip Formed at the end of the last ice age, and a popular # H p46 Mottarone Monte L # 1 # Stresa Á Lago 88 SP394dir SP1var Parco Re
] # l
Pallanza
and take some discover-
Maggiore ÀÀ
holiday spot since Roman times, the Italian lakes
R
ing. The highlight has to
be the baroque Chiesa
(1491m)
\
di San Giorgio (Corso San that takes you through its enigmatic heartland, historic cities, have an enduring natural beauty. At Lago Maggiore d'Orta Lago Lago di # # 4 ] # Malnate Olgiate # 8 \ À # Comasco # Como 5 ] # # # \ Lago di Pusiano Lago di
#
Giorgio, Modica Alta; h8am- spine-tingling ascents and a world-famous mountain trio. (Lake Maggiore) the palaces of the Borromean # \ Orta San \ Ranco # Monate Riserva Naturale Solbiate \ SS342 Alserio San Salvatore # \
12.30pm & 3.30-6.30pm), Giulio Brabbia 0 ¸ SS342
which stands in isolated Islands lie like a fl eet of fi ne vessels in the gulf, their \ # Arona Parco Regionale del Pineta Bergamo
splendour atop a majestic grand ballrooms and shell-encrusted grottoes once 0 ¸ E62 0 ¸ di Apiano 0 ¸ 9 m K # #
250-step staircase. TRIP HIGHLIGHTS 7 DAYS 481 KM / 300 MILES host to Napoleon and Princess Diana, while the siren A26 0 ¸ A8/26 E35 LOMBARDY
Corso Umberto I is the
place to lap up the lively 0 km Geneva 481 km Zürich Culturally vibrant city GREAT FOR… call of Lago di Como (Lake Como) draws Arabian Olona 0 ¸ A2
local atmosphere. A wide
sheikhs and Hollywood movie stars to its discreet
avenue  anked by grace-
edge
ful palaces, churches, Cosmopolitan city and with a post-industrial BJ forested slopes. 0 ¸ A26 PIEDMONT Legnano # \ 0 ¸ A8 0 ¸ A4
Old Town grace galore
restaurants, bars and
WHY THIS IS A boutiques, it is where the BEST TIME TO GO Rho ] #
locals come to parade
GREAT TRIP during the passeggiata A A c A A g Late spring, summer 0 ¸ 0 ¸ Milan
DUNCAN GARWOOD, (evening stroll). 9 and autumn, when the Bella took the name of River Sesia Ticino F G 1 A4 A50 # 0 ¸ ^ A51 # e 0 0 10 miles 20 km
Originally a raging river
Carlo III’s wife, the
WRITER  owed through town, but light and weather are TRIP HIGHLIGHT bella Isabella, in the 0 ¸ A4
best.
Sicily boasts some of the after major  ood damage Bern A A A Lucerne A A A A A 8 I ESSENTIAL 1 Stresa 17th century, when its 3 05 56; www.isoleborromee. L LIN N NK K Y Y YO OU U UR R T T TR RI IP P
centrepiece, Palazzo
in 1902 it was dammed
More than Como and
most spectacular artistic and
WESTEND61/GETTY IMAGES ©
Garda, Lago Maggiore
and Corso Umberto was
archaeological treasures you’ve
Borromeo (%0323 3 05 56;
PHOTO
never heard of. The great Greek ruins
of Agrigento and Syracuse might be
has retained the belle
built over it.
www.isoleborromee.it; Isola
on many travellers’ radars but what
Quadri (Picture Gallery)
incl Palazzo Madre adult/child
tourist heyday. Attracted
about Palermo’s Cappella Palatina or
Palazzo Borromeo €20.50/10;
region exempli es
h9am-5.30pm mid-Mar–mid-
From Verbania
€20.50/10; h9am-5.30pm
pastoral perfection.
by the mild climate and
is hung with Old Mas-
Noto’s  amboyant baroque streets? 4 p99 The Drive » Head back onto A Fribourg A The verdant Emmental époque air of its early Bella; adult/child €15/8.50, palace, the Galleria dei it; adult/child €12/6.50, incl 1 Grand Tour From Stresa take | The Swiss Alp
head north-east for the
the A8 to Milan (Milano)
Oct) includes a ‘horror’
ters, including Rubens,
mid-Mar–mid-Oct) was built.
the SS115, which becomes quite
the easy access the new
These masterpieces are all the more twisty as you close in on Noto, 1855 railway provided, Construction of the villa Titian, Veronese and José theatre with a cast of from where you can greatest of the great
rewarding for being so unexpected, 40km away. the European haute and gardens was thought Ribera (Spagnoletto). devilish marionettes, outdoors: perfect peaks,
CULTURE
and go to make this round-island K BEST FOR out in such a way that By contrast, Isola while Chinese pheas- commence your own gorgeous glaciers,
An open-air cable car;
trip an amazing and unforgettable Stanserhorn Zürich’s mighty bourgeoisie  ocked to Madre eschews ostenta- ants stalk the English Grand Tour of Italy. verdant valleys.
experience. A A 1 d A A f the perfect Lake museums and buy and build grand lake- the island would have the
The star attractions
Lucerne panorama relentless nightlife are side villas. appearance of a vessel, tion for a more romantic, gardens.
16th- to 18th-century
and the gardens dripping
Top: Looking from Trapani across the Tyrrhenian Sea 402 km intoxicating. are the Borromean with the villa at the prow familial atmosphere. The 5 p53
to Mt Eryx and the hilltop town of Erice Islands ( Isole Borromee) down 10 tiered terraces Palazzo Madre (%0323
Left: Porta Reale, Corso Vittorio Emanuele, Noto 95 541 and their palaces. Isola at the rear. Inside the 45
Right: Chiesa di San Giorgio, Modica Grindelwald Hiking at the foot of the Eiger
44
Pick the right route with Get around easily with Discover even more with
inspirational images and colour maps and route detours, walking routes and
key trip highlights. directions in easy stages. ways to link your trips.
3 ROAD TRIP ESSENTIALS
Everything you need for your Europe road trip
Expert advice, practical info, language tips and more.
El Prat Airport petrol
€ less than €10 gasolina f
Daily Costs €€ €€€ €10–20 more than (Barcelona) windscreen ga·so·lee·na
parabrisas m
Rental cars Major car-rental
pa·ra·bree·sas
agencies have concessions at
NEED TO # Santiago de Compostela » Dorm bed: €20–30 €20 arrival terminals.
Budget: Less than €80
Climate
KNOW GO May–Sep Barcelona hotel): €55–65 (more in Madrid every  ve to 10 minutes from Language battery
Buses Cost €5.90 and run
» Double room in hostal (budget
6.10am to 1.05am; it’s 30 to 40
and Barcelona)
Casas Rurales Comfy village
Trains Cost €4.10 and run
del día (daily set menu): €10–15
CURRENCY # GO year-round » Self-catering and lunch menú Sleeping minutes to the centre. batería f ba·ta·ree·a
Euro (€) Madrid # GO Mar–May, Sep & Oct » Use museum and gallery ‘free houses or farmhouses for hire in every 30 minutes from 5.42amto engine
11.38pm; it takes 25 to 30
the countryside.
LANGUAGE # Valencia GO year-round admission’ afternoons Hostales Simple guesthouses minutes to reach the centre. The pronunciation of most Spanish sounds is very similar to that of their English counter- motor m mo·tor tyre
parts. If you read our coloured pronunciation guides as if they were English, you’ll be under-
stood. Note that kh is a throaty sound (like the ‘ch’ in the Scottish loch), r is strongly rolled, ly
Midrange: €80-175
that have ensuite rooms.
Spanish (Castilian). Also
‘lisped’ th sound is pronounced as s in Andalucia. In our pronunciation guides stressed syl-
Taxis Cost €25 to €30 and
accommodation often in castles,
Galician. Catalan, Basque and hotel: €65–140 » Double room in midrange Paradores State funded reach the centre in 30 minutes. is pronounced as the ‘lli’ in ‘million’ and ny as the ‘ni’ in ‘onion’. You may also notice that the headlight faro m rueda f rwe·da
lables are indicated with italics.
» Lunch and/or dinner in local
converted monasteries and old
VISAS # Seville GO Oct–Apr restaurant: €20–40 mansions. fa·ro
Phones)
Generally not required for
basic guesthouses,often with
stays of up to 90 days (not » Car rental: per day from €25 Pensión Inexpensive, extremely Mobile Phones (Cell Can you please write it down? pwe·de es·kree·beer·lo child seat asiento de seguridad a·syen·to de se·goo·ree·da I had an accident. e te·nee·do oon
Local SIM cards are widely
He tenido un
at all for members of EU Dry climate Warm to hot summers, cold winters Top End: More than €175 shared bathrooms. available and can be used in SPANISH BASICS Hola. o·la por favor? Can you show me (on the map)? me lo pwe·de een·dee·kar para niños pa·ra ne
¿Puede escribirlo,
ak·thee·den·te
por fa·vor
or Schengen countries).
» Double room in top-end hotel:
European and Australian mobile
Hello.
Price categories indicate the
Some nationalities need a
me·ka·nee·ko/a
mecánico/a. m/f
Cold climate
(en el mapa)?
Schengen visa. Mild to hot summers, cold winters €140 and up (€200 in Madrid, cost of a double room with phones, but are not compatible Goodbye. How are you? ¿Qué tal? Adiós. a·dyos ke tal ¿Me lo puede indicar (en el ma·pa) diesel helmet mechanic gasóleo ca
Barcelona and the Balearics)
private bathroom in high season:
with many North American or
» Fine dining for lunch and
Are there cycling paths?
FUEL dinner: €150–250 BARCELONA ELSEWHERE Japanese systems. Fine, thanks. Bien, gracias. byen gra·syas gasolina ga·so·lee·na ¿Hay carril bicicleta? ai ka·reel bee·thee·kle·ta
per·don
Petrol stations (usually Excuse me. Perdón. EMERGENCIES petrol ga·so·lee·ne·ra Is there bicycle parking?
open 24 hours) can be » Double room in parador & MADRID Sorry. Lo siento. lo syen·to ¡Socorro! so·ko·ro service station gasolinera ¿Hay aparcamiento ai a·par·ka·myen·to
found along major highways. High Season (Jun–Aug, public holidays) (luxurious state-owned hotel): € less than less than €65 Internet Access Yes. Sí. see no Help! I’m lost. How much is it per day/hour? de bicicletas? de bee·thee·kle·tas
When to Go
€120–200
€75
Wi- is available in most lodgings
Expect to pay €1.35 to €1.80 €65–140 No. No. por fa·vor Estoy perdido/a. es·toy per·dee·do/a (m/f) ¿Cuánto cuesta por kwan·to kwes·ta por
Internet cafes are rare.
per litre. » Accommodation books out and prices increase by up to 50%. €€ €75– 200 and cafes (and is usually free). Please. Thank you. Por favor. Gracias. gra·syas ON THE ROAD día/hora? Is this the road to …? dee·a/o·ra
» Low season in parts of inland Spain.
RENTAL CARS » Expect warm, dry and sunny weather; more humid in coastal Eating €€€ more more kee·sye·ra ¿Se va a … por esta se va a … por es·ta Signs
Auto Jardim (www. Tapas Bar Tapas and than than You’re welcome. De nada. de na·da I’d like to alquilar … Quisiera al·kee·lar … carretera? ka·re·te·ra
autojardim.com) areas. Shoulder (Mar–May, Sep & Oct) drinks;open longer hours than €200 €140 Money The most convenient way to My name is … me lya·mo … hire a … 4WD un todo- oon to·do· te·re·no (How long) Can I park here? (por kwan·to tyem·po) Stop Sto
¿(Por cuánto tiempo)
restaurants.
Hertz (www.hertz.com) Me llamo … terreno Puedo aparcar aquí? pwe·do a·par·kar a·kee Ceda el Paso
Holiday Autos (www. » A good time to travel: mild, clear weather and fewer crowds. Taberna Rustic place serving bring your money is in the form What’s your name? bicycle una oo·na bee·see·kle·ta The car has broken down (at …). Prohibido No Entry
ko·mo te lya·mas (inf)
holidayautos.com) » Local festivals can send prices soaring. tapas and raciones (large tapas). Arriving in Spain of a debit or credit card, with ¿Cómo se llama Usted? ko·mo se lya·ma oo·ste (pol) car bicicleta un coche oon ko·che El coche se ha av
¿Cómo te llamas?
some extra cash in case of an
(en …).
Panadería Bakery; good for
Pepecar (www.pepecar.com) Low Season (Nov–Feb) pastries and coff ee. Barajas Airport (Madrid) emergency. Many credit and debit cards can Do you speak English? a·bla een·gles (pol) motorcycle una moto oo·na mo·to I have a  at tyre. ten·go oon peen·cha·tho Peaje
(en …)
» Cold in central Spain; rain in the north and northwest.
Tengo un pinchazo.
¿Habla inglés?
a·blas een·gles (inf)
Rental cars Major car-rental
IMPORTANT NUMBERS » Mild temperatures in Andalucía and the Mediterranean coast. Vinoteca Wine bar where you agencies have desks in the be used for withdrawing money ¿Hablas inglés? Vía Acceso Freeway Exit
Me he quedado sin
Europe-wide emergencies » This is high season in ski resorts. order by the glass. airport at arrival terminals. from cajeros automáticos I don’t understand. no en·tyen·do Want More? I’ve run out of petrol. me e ke·da·do seen Aparcamiento ParkingA
ga·so·lee·na
(ATMs) that display the
Cervecería Beerhall; the place
No entiendo.
gasolina.
(%112) » Many hotels are closed in beach areas but elsewhere prices to go for snacks and draft beer Metro & buses Cost around relevant symbols such as Visa, Prohibido Aparcar No Parking
International access code plummet. (cerveza). €5 and run every  ve to 10 DIRECTIONS For in-depth language information Where’s a petrol station? don·de ai oo·na
(%00) minutes from 6.05am to 1.30am; MasterCard, Cirrus etc. There is and handy phrases, check out Lonely ¿Dónde hay una ga·so·lee·ne·ra
Country code (%34) Marisqueira Eatery it’s 30 to 40 minutes to the usually a charge (around 1.5% Where’s …? don·de es·ta … Planet’s Spanish Phrasebook. You’ll gasolinera?
specialising in seafood.
 nd them at shop.lonelyplanet.com.
to 2%) on ATM cash withdrawals
¿Dónde está …?
centre.
Price categories indicate the Taxis Cost €30 and reach the abroad. What’s the address? kwal es la dee·rek·syon
cost of a main course: centre in 20 minutes. 437 ¿Cuál es la dirección? 439
436 438

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd



























EUROPE’S

BEST TRIPS




40 AMAZING
ROAD TRIPS










This edition written and researched by
Belinda Dixon, Isabel Albiston, Oliver Berry,
Stuart Butler, Kerry Christiani, Fionn Davenport,
Marc Di Duca, Peter Dragicevich, Duncan Garwood,
Anthony Ham, Paula Hardy, Catherine Le Nevez,
Sally O’Brien, Josephine Quintero, Daniel Robinson,
Brendan Sainsbury, Andy Symington,
Ryan Ver Berkmoes, Nicola Williams, Neil Wilson

SYMBOLS IN THIS BOOK CONTENTS

Top Tips History & Essential
Culture Photo
Link Family Walking
Your Trips Tour
Tips from Food & 5 Eating PLAN YOUR TRIP
Locals Drink
Trip Outdoors 4 Sleeping
Detour
Welcome to Europe ......................... 7
Europe Map ...................................... 8
% Telephone i Internet s Swimming
Number Access Pool Europe Highlights ...........................10
h Opening Hours W Wi-Fi Access c Family- If You Like... ................................... 20
p Parking v Vegetarian Friendly
a Air- Selection Europe by Region ........................... 22
Conditioning


MAP LEGEND ON THE ROAD
Routes Trips
Routes
Trips
Trip Numbers
Trip Route Trip
Trip Route
1
Trip Detour
Trip Detour # Numbers ITALY ................................ 25
Trip Stop
Linked Trip
Secondary place- 1 Grand 29
Linked Trip
Trip Stop
9
Walk Route
Walk Route
Walking tour
Tollway
2
Walking tour
Tollway
Freeway
Freeway
Tour ................ 12–14 Days
Primary
Trip Detour
Trip Detour
Primary
Secondary
Population
Tertiary
Highway Route Markers
Tunnel holder 2 The Graceful Italian 43
Tertiary
Lane
Capital (National)
Lakes ..................5–7 Days
US National Hwy
Ù
[
97
Unsealed Road
Capital
Lane
US Interstate Hwy
Ó
VU
Unsealed Road
Plaza/Mall
(State/Province)
5
d
k
Plaza/Mall
Steps
City/Large Town
California State Hwy
Tuscan Wine
3
44
Town/Village
Tunnel
Steps
Tour .........................4 Days
55
Hydrography
Pedestrian
Overpass
map
Pedestrian
Overpass
Walk Track/Path
Beach
Intermittent River
Cemetery
Coast .......................7 Days
Walk Track/Path
Swamp/Mangrove
(Christian)
Boundaries Areas River/Creek 4 Amalfi 65
Canal
Boundaries Water 5 World Heritage
Cemetery (Other)
International
International
Park
State/Province
State/Province
Cliff
Forest
Intermittent Lake
Cliff Dry/Salt/ Wonders ...............14 Days 75
Glacier
Reservation
Hydrography Urban Area
Population Areas Sportsground 6 Wonders of Ancient
River/Creek
Capital (National) Beach Sicily .............. 12–14 Days 89
Intermittent River
Cemetery
Capital Transport
Swamp/Mangrove
(State/Province) (Christian) Italian
Airport
Canal
City/Large Town Cemetery (Other) 7
Cable Car/
Water
Town/Village Park Riviera ....................4 Days 101
Dry/Salt/
Funicular
Transport Forest
Intermittent Lake
Parking
Train/Railway
Glacier
Airport Reservation
Tram
Cable Car/ Urban Area
Funicular
Highway Markers Sportsground
Parking
Highway Marker
Train/Railway
Tram
Underground
Train Station
Note: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book

CONTENTS




FRANCE .......................... 117 GREAT BRITAIN .............. 203

8 Essential f The Best of
Britain ..................21 Days 207
France ...................21 Days 121
9 D-Day’s g Britain’s Wild
Beaches ..................3 Days 133
Side .......................21 Days 221
a Atlantic to h The Historic
Med .......................10 Days 143
South .................9–11 Days 235
b The i Classic
Lakes ......................5 Days 247
Pyrenees ................7 Days 153
c Riviera j Royal Highlands
& Cairngorms ....4–5 Days 261
Crossing .................4 Days 163
d Champagne k Great
Glen .................... 2–3 Days 271
Taster ......................3 Days 175
e Châteaux of the l West Wales: Swansea to
Loire ........................5 Days 185
St Davids ................4 Days 279








Ireland Great
p297
Britain
p203
Germany
p475
Switzerland
France Austria p525
p117 p555

Italy
Portugal p25
p445 Spain
p369




3

Contents cont.


IRELAND ......................... 297 PORTUGAL ...................... 445

m Iconic w Douro Valley
Vineyard Trails ...5–7 Days 449
Ireland ....................7 Days 301
n The Long Way x Alentejo & Algarve
Beaches .............4–6 Days 459
Round ....................14 Days 315
o Ring of GERMANY ....................... 475
Kerry .......................4 Days 329
p The North in a y Romantic
Rhine ...................5–7 Days 479
Nutshell ................10 Days 341
q Musical z The Romantic
Road ......................10 Days 491
Landscapes ............5 Days 353
SPAIN ............................. 369 { German Fairy
Tale Road ................5 Days 505
r Mediterranean SWITZERLAND ............... 525
Meander ................7 Days 373
s Costa del Sol Beyond the | The Swiss
Alps .........................7 Days 529
Beaches .............3–4 Days 389
t Northern Spain } Geneva to
Zürich .....................7 Days 541
Pilgrimage ..........5–7 Days 399
u Historic AUSTRIA ......................... 555
Castilla y León .......7 Days 415
~ Grossglockner
v Roving La Rioja Road ....................5–7 Days 559
Wine Region ...... 2–4 Days 427
¤ Along the
Danube ............... 2–4 Days 569














Switzerland Engelberg KAROLINARYSAVA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

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©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd





























































Italy Duomo, Florence
6

DIRIYE AMEY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©







WELCOME TO
EUROPE





Europe has an embarrassment of riches.
To incomparable art and architecture, add a
vivid past. To spectacular scenery and vibrant
cities, add the finest food and wine. It’s a
place that helps you do and be what you’ve
always wanted. Hike mountain passes. Savour
wine beside sun-ripened vines. Tour palazzi
and pueblos. Linger over lunch-time people
watching. Feel you belong.
These riches are best by far discovered by car.
And the countless stops we’ve crafted into
40 road trips are your key to unlocking those
experiences. Grip the wheel in white-knuckle
mountain routes. Cruise along coast roads.
Drive historical timelines. Trace gourmet and
vineyard trails.

Trips packed with culture, cities, history,
mountains, food, beaches, wine and art –
they’re all waiting to be discovered and our
routes will guide you every stop of the way.















7

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
^ # # ^





EUROPE # STOCKHOLM _ HIGHLIGHTS Kaliningrad # Kaliningrad Romantic Rhine The majestic river winds past ^ Gdańsk # Gdańsk # Gdań # Gda ^ Gda # Gda ^ Gd # ^ # # ^ # # ^ # # ^ # # ^ # # ^ # # ^ # # ^ # # ^ # # ^ # # # ^ # # ^ # ^ #
# ^ # _ RĪGA # Klaipėda ^ # ^ # # # # ^ ^ # # # ^ ^ # ^ # ^ # # d d d ad ad O L A N D O L A N D A N A N A N N WARSAW _ # # Łódź ^ Kraków Kraków Kraków Kraków Kr Kr K K K K K K K K K K K # # # ^ # # # ^ ^ ^







S W E D E N 34 # Szczecin ^ Oder # Dresden ^ # # # # # ^ ^ ^ # ^ ^ # # # # ^ # # ^ # ^ # # ^ # # ^ # # _ PR _ PR # PR # PR # PR # P # P _ P _ P # P # P _ # # # # # # _ _ _ # # # # # # _ # _ _ #
_
#
# COPENHAGEN _ D E N M A R K Hamburg # ^ Elbe # Bremen BERLIN # Hanover ^ G E R M A N Y Leipzig # Erfurt ^ Frankfurt- am-Main Main Mainz # Stuttgart ^ ^ # Munich Danube ^ VADUZ # _ „ 444 444 444 444 444 444 444 444 444






4 4 4 4 44 444 44 44 44 44 44 444 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 OSLO 44 _ 444 # 444 44 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 N O R W A Y 4444 4444 Offers imposing
44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 4 44 44 44 4 Scottish Highlands glinting lochs.




19 castle-upon-Tyne castle-upon-Tyne -Ty T -T Stonehenge theories. Ipswich ^ # LONDON BRUSSELS Reims # Seine „ # ^ PARIS #Orléans ] Loire \ #

^
# Aberdeen ^ Spey # EDINBURGH _ # ^ 17 Leeds s ds ds ds # ^ # ^ :4 # Nottingham ^ Birmingham ^ # 44444 4 4 E N G L A N D # _ „ 44 44 4 4 4 44 4 STONEHENGE ^ # Portsmouth THE CHANNEL 44 4444 44 (LA MANCHE) Rouen St-Lô





Giant’s Causeway Legends abound around this unique geological marvel. SCOTTISH HIGHLANDS „ S C O T L A N D Glasgow GIANT'S # ^ CAUSEWAY „ ^ # Carlisle BELFAST _ # NORTHERN IRELAND 777 777 77 DUBLIN : # Liverpool _ 4 7 : : : : : : 4 4 4 4




Derry/Londonderry Galway Limerick 14 palaces.

25 ^ # I R E L A N D ^ # # ^ Cork Châteaux of the Loire






8

Osijek ^ # _ # ^ # Dubrovnik # Bari ^ ^ # TA T


#ZAGREB _ CROATIA BOSNIA & HERCEGOVINA SARAJEVO # ^ Split # ^ # Potenza # ^ Catanzaro : : : : _ VALLETTA # VALLETTA # VA _ V # # # _ _ # # _ # # A A stunning coastline of vertical landscapes and chic resort



LJUBLJANA _ # SLOVENIA ^ # Rijeka # Ancona ^ Campobasso ^ Naples „ AMALFI COAST Palermo # ^ Amalfi Coast towns. Boasts priceless masterpieces and Renaissance architecture.


u ^ # SAN MARINO I T A L Y _ #
D Trieste # ^ Venice _ # # ^ ROME 4 Florence
SWISS ALPS 444 444 444 444 444 444 444 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 444 444 444 444 444 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 444 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 # ^ Trento Bologna # ^ FLORENCE ^ # „ Perugia # Cagliari TUN S A TUN SIA TUNI


„ 44 44 4 4 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 4 44 44 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 #Milan 4 4 4 44 4 4 4 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 # Genoa ^ TU TU TU TU TU TU T T
_ # „ ^ 44444 44444 444 444 444 444 444 444 444 444 444 Po ^ Ligurian Sea ^ #
Geneva SWITZERLAND _ # ] # ^ # Rhône 444 444 444 444 444 444 444 4 44 44 4 4 44 44 44 44 44 44 Isère 44 44 44 44 44 4 4 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 4 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44 44
# BERN ITALIAN LAKES 4444 4444 4444 4444 4444 4444 4444 4444 4444 4444 4444 4444 4444 44 44 Aosta # ^ Turin # MONACO _ Cannes Ajaccio







# Bourges Clermont- Ferrand ^ ] # Lyon F R A N C E # ] Marseille : Golfe de Beauduc # Perpignan ] : : : : : : : # Barcelona # Palma de ^ Mallorca 37 ALGERIA AL

Lot
\
Tarn ] # _ # : ANDORRA : ^ : Golfo de Valencia
Limoges \ # #Garonne Vézère Toulouse # Pau : : LA VELLA : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : Ebro : Valencia : Destination of choice for Goethe, Hemingway and George Clooney.


\ # Bay of Biscay ^ Sebastián Pau \ # Pamplona : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : ^ # : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : Río : : : : : ^ # : : ^ # Murcia Italian Lakes
La Rochelle Zaragoza S P A I N # ^ Almería
: Bordeaux San ^ # ^ : : LA RIOJA : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : Río Júcar : : :
: La R B Santander ^ # ^ # Bilbao : : : Burgos ^ # : „ : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : Duero : : MADRID : : : : : : : # _ : : : : : : : : : : : : Albacete : : Jaén # Granada ^ ^ # 2

La Rioja Wine Country # ^ : : : : : : : : : : : : : :lid : : : : : : : : : : :lado Val ^ # : : : : Río : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : Río Tajo : : : : Mérida : : Córdoba Río Genil # Málaga ^ # Gibraltar MOROCO MOROC
^
#
^
#
ATLANTIC OCEAN OCEAN CEAN EA CEA Fine wine amid bucolic scenery. : # Lugo Oviedo ^ : : : : : : : : : : : : : PORTUGAL : : : : #Guarda ^ : # Castelo ^ Branco : : : : : Río Guadiana : : : : ^ : # : : : : : : : : : : : : : :


31 A Coruña A Coruña ^ # : : Pontevedra # ^ ^ # Braga ^ # Porto Rio Douro ^ # Aveiro ^ # Leiria LISBON # _ ^ # Évora ALGARVE BEACHES : # ^ # „ ^ : : Faro : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : Cádiz : : 33 0 e # 0



9

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Europe’s best sights and
experiences, and the road trips
that will take you there.







EUROPE


HIGHLIGHTS










Italian Lakes

Italy’s northern lakes are
simply sublime. The most
picturesque and least
visited is Lago di Como
(Lake Como); a highlight of
Trip 2: The Graceful Italian
Lakes, a scenic jaunt around
Lakes Maggiore, Orta and
Como. Set in the shadow of
the Rhaetian Alps, Lago di
Como’s banks are speckled
with Liberty-style villas
and fabulous landscaped
gardens that burst into
blushing colour in April
and May.
Trip 2












10

IRYNA1/SHUTTERSTOCK ©





























































Italian Lakes Varenna, Lago di Como
11

HIGHLIGHTS































Scottish Highlands Urquhart Castle

Scottish Paris The Amalfi
Highlands What is there to say Coast
Scotland’s wild about the City of Light The Amalfi Coast is
that hasn’t been said a
places abound in thousand times before? Italy’s most dazzling
breathtaking vistas: Quite simply, this is one seafront stretch. Its
imposing mountains, of the world’s essential coastal road – detailed
emerald green glades, cities: sexy, suave and in Trip 4: The Amalfi
glinting lochs – the sophisticated. There’s a Coast – curves sinuously,
scenery here is truly lifetime of experiences linking steeply stacked
awe-inspiring. Drive here, from the treasures towns and rocky inlets.
right into the views on of the Louvre to the All around, cliffs sheer
Trip 19: Royal Highlands cafes of Montmartre down into sparkling blue
& Cairngorms, which – encounter them on waters, lemons grow on
delivers castles, peaks Trip 8: Essential France, hillside terraces, and
and wildlife galore – and which steers you all the towering fichi d’India
the chance to explore the way from the chic capital (prickly pears) guard
Royal family’s summer to the glistening Med. silent mountain paths.
holiday haunts. Trip 4
Trip j Trip 8
12

NITSAWAN KATERATTANAKUL/SHUTTERSTOCK © GRIMPLET/SHUTTERSTOCK ©


































Châteaux of the Loire Château de Chambord

Châteaux of
BEST ROADS FOR DRIVING the Loire
For sky’s-the-limit
SS163 The ‘Nastro Azzurro’ weaves along the extravagance, don’t miss
precipitous Amalfi Coast. Trip 4
Trip 14: Châteaux of
the Loire. Constructed
Col d’Aubisque A route through the craggy by France’s aristocratic
Pyrenees; more like flying than driving. Trip b elite between the 15th
and 17th centuries, these
A939 Scottish Highlands Motor beside ski lavish mansions were
slopes at rollercoaster Lecht Pass. Trip j designed to show off
their owners’ wealth –
The São Vicente Coast Road Cliff tops en route something they manage
to Europe’s southwestern-most tip. Trip x to achieve in spectacular
fashion. Chambord is
Silvretta High Alpine Road Brave 34 white- the jewel in the crown,
knuckle switchbacks 2500m high in the Austrian but on this trip you’ll see
Alps. Trip ~ plenty of sparkling gems.
Trip e
13

HIGHLIGHTS


























































Stonehenge
14

VICTOR MASCHEK/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Stonehenge
Mysterious and compelling,
Stonehenge is Great Britain’s
most iconic ancient site.
People have been drawn
to this myth-laden ring of
bluestones for the last 5000
years, and we still don’t know
quite why it was built. Come
up with your own theories
while gazing at massive
megaliths on Trip 17: The
Historic South, a voyage
which crosses the country
via a centuries-long timeline
through a captivating past.
Trips fh




BEST SIPS


Castello di Verrazzano
Sample Chianti Classico and
olive oil at this ancient Italian
castle. Trip 3
Épernay Explore bottle-
packed cellars in the French
town dubbed the capitale du
champagne. Trip d
Rioja Trek Tour a vineyard; sup
in a bodega; make your own
wine. Trip v
Quinta do Crasto Spectacular,
terraced vineyards on a ridge
above the Río Douro. Trip w
Engelszell Visit a 13th-century
abbey to taste monk-made
cheese and beer. Trip ¤





15

RTARN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

HIGHLIGHTS


























































Swiss Alps View of the Matterhorn from Zermatt
16

ALBERTO LOYO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©



































La Rioja Hotel Marqués de Riscal

Swiss Alps Florence La Rioja Wine
You’d think after From Brunelleschi’s Country
motoring through 537km red-capped Duomo to
of mind-blowing Alpine Michelangelo’s David La Rioja is the sort of
scenery on Trip 37: The and Botticelli’s The Birth place where you could
Swiss Alps that you had of Venus, Florence boasts spend weeks searching
seen it all. Wrong. After priceless masterpieces out the finest drops.
a succession of dramatic and a historic centre that Bodegas offering wine
green peaks, Alpine looks much as it did in tastings and villages that
lakes, glacial ravines Renaissance times. Art shelter wine museums
are the mainstays. Aside
and other hallucinatory aside, the city is perfect
natural landscapes, for al fresco dining and from scenery and fine
you pull into your final wine drinking. And it’s quaffs, you’ll find plenty
destination: Zermatt, a only part of Trip 5: World of surprises (such as a
highly desirable Alpine Heritage Wonders – an Frank Gehry–designed
masterpiece in a tiny
resort built around epic exploration of Italy’s village) on Trip 31:
the incomperable finest historic cities: Roving La Rioja Wine
Matterhorn. Venice, Siena, Pisa and Region.
Trip | Rome.
Trip 135 Trip v
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STEFVAL/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

HIGHLIGHTS










































Algarve Beaches The Giant’s Causeway
Beach-lovers have much to celebrate The grand geological flourish of the
on a drive along Portugal’s southern Giant’s Causeway is Northern Ireland’s
coast. Sandy islands, cliffs and shore most popular attraction and one of the
set the stage for memorable backroad world’s most startling natural wonders.
explorations on Trip 33: Alentejo & Here, you can clamber over some of
Algarve Beaches. After a day spent the 40,000 unique hexagonal basalt
surfing or frolicking in the sea, you can columns that trail off into the sea.
roll up to a beautifully sited restaurant Discover the rich legends that surround
for a seafood feast overlooking the them on Trip 23: The Long Way Round;
crashing waves. as you circumnavigate enchanting
Trip x Ireland’s entire shore.
Trips np
18

STEFVAL/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
(left) Algarve beaches Alvor, near Portimão;
(below) Rhine Valley Ehrenfels Castle, near Rüdesheim
DMITRY EAGLE ORLOV/SHUTTERSTOCK ©







































BEST CITIES
Romantic Rhine London Theatre, history, art, food:
The Rhine has long mesmerised artists, Britain’s capital has them all. Trips fh
as is illustrated by the 19th-century
paintings in Koblenz on Trip 34: Rome Unique, exquisite, romantic; the
Romantic Rhine. From Düsseldorf one-time capital of the world remains
and Cologne, the majestic river snakes unmissable. Trips 15
through churning whirlpools, medieval
villages, vineyards and castle-capped Dublin Georgian charm in a vibrant,
cliffs. Your trail mirrors it, leading to contemporary city. Plus 1000-plus pubs.
forests and fortresses, and to evenings Trips mn
sipping rieslings under chestnut trees.
Trip y Barcelona Playful, historic and flush
with unique art. The Spanish city of your
dreams. Trip r
19

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IF YOU AGNIESZKA SKALSKA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

LIKE








Wine tasting Douro Valley

Architecture Great Views Art
Boasting an unparalleled Awe-inspiring mountains, Renaissance glories,
architectural legacy, sun-kissed shores, majestic Impressionist
Europe is home to some river valleys, vine-etched masterpieces, modernist
of the world’s most hills – Europe can claim marvels, landmark
celebrated masterpieces superb landscapes linked museums – Europe’s
in building design. by ribboning roads. These astonishing artistic
Romanesque cathedrals, are truly unforgettable legacy is guaranteed to
baroque palaces, drives. linger long in the memory
Georgian cities, half- 4 Amalfi Coast Italy’s after you get home.
timbered cottages, ancient From Michelangelo to
monuments, cutting-edge most celebrated shore is a Picasso, Europe is a sheer
creations – the wealth of classic Mediterranean pin- indulgence for art-lovers
up – simply sublime views.
buildings arrayed here will and a feast for the eyes.
be a memorable part of j Royal Highlands & 1 Grand Tour Take in
your trip. Cairngorms A sweep of Leonardo’s The Last Supper,
majestic mountains and
e Châteaux of the Loire Botticelli’s The Birth of
Resplendent châteaux line pine forests encircles the Venus, Michelangelo’s David
the banks of the Loire, each Queen’s Scottish summer and so much more.
home.
one more extravagant than r Mediterranean
the last. o Ring of Kerry Virtually
every corner on this iconic Meander See artwork
h The Historic South by Spanish greats, from
Three of England’s most Irish drive reveals a vista Picasso in Malaga to Catalan
spectacular cathedrals, worthy of a postcard. giants in Barcelona.
plus London, and Bath’s | The Swiss Alps All } Geneva to Zürich Rich
Georgian city-scape. the big names are here: and diverse art collections
t Northern Spain Matterhorn, Eiger, Jungfrau, dot this mountanous route
Pilgrimage Showcasing Schilthorn, Titlis and Mönch. – encompassing everything
a string of ancient chapels from the Renaissance to
medieval villages and some Cubism.
stunning cathedrals.
20

IOAN PANAITE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©












Outdoor activities Alpine mountains along the Grossglockner Road

Outdoor History Food & Wine
Activities In Europe the past is ever With its superb produce
Europe is an adventure present. Everywhere lies and culinary traditions,
Europe is a food- and
evidence of an enthralling
playground extraordinaire heritage stretching back wine-lover’s dream
with landscapes that make thousands of years – from destination. Here you
pretty much any activity stone circles and Greek can dine al fresco in a
possible. Hike mountain temples to battlefields, medieval piazza, feast on
trails, surf gorgeous chateaux, cathedrals and seafood in a historic port,
beaches, go summer-time castles. This history is a or nibble on cured meats
skiing, windsurfing and seam stitched through the in a Spanish bodega.
white-water rafting – our entire continent and our
adrenaline-laced trips trips unravel the stories 3 Tuscan Wine Tour
enable it all. Savour fine dining in
for you.
g Britain’s Wild Side 5 World Heritage Chianti’s picturesque
A fresh-air fuelled tour of Wonders Rome’s vineyards.
Britain’s best wilderness Colosseum and Verona’s d Champagne Taster
spots, including eight Arena; a classic cross- Chefs cook up a storm while
gloriously diverse National country drive. cellars echo to the sound of
Parks. popping corks.
9 D-Day’s Beaches
x Alentejo & Algarve v Roving La Rioja Wine
Beaches Portugal’s south- The events of D-Day still Region Bodegas, quality
resonate along Normandy’s
coast stunner, offering shores; the museums and eateries and vineyards to
cliff-backed shores, seaside memorials explain why. the horizon.
villages and great surf.
h The Historic South w Douro Valley
~ Grossglockner Road Vineyard Trails Northern
A feat of 1930s Austrian Britain’s Stonehenge, Portugal’s culinary corner
UNESCO-city Bath, sublime
engineering, this road cathedrals and Napoleonic- boasts sublime views and
swings giddily around 36 era ships combine for a truly red wines.
switchbacks – opening up historic drive.
mountain activities galore.
21

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Ireland
EUROPE The emerald isle delivers
picture-postcard views
that are brooding,
dramatic and delightful
BY REGION in turn. It’s a place to
revel in scenery, history,
music-filled pubs and the
stillness of village life.











These nine glorious countries
have dramatically different
characters – each as irresistible
and as exciting as the next. What
to do and where do go? Here’s
your guide to getting the very
best experiences from each
country and its road trips.





Portugal
Portugal’s mix of the medieval
and the maritime makes
touring a real treat. The legacy
of a sometimes turbulent past
includes medieval castles, vine-
lined terraces and captivating
cities. Meanwhile, the pounding
Atlantic has sculpted a coast of
Spain
glorious sandy bays.
Passionate, sophisticated and
devoted to living the good life,
Spain showcases sun-baked plains
and glittering shores, it also
enables leisurely discoveries of
heritage, food, wine and art.
22

Great Britain France
From cliff-backed shores and France seduces with a somehow
quaint villages, to historic familiar culture woven around
monuments and wild, wild cafe terraces, village-square
moors., Britain boasts everything markets and lace-curtained
from Georgian architecture to bistros where the plat du jour is
21st-century art. chalked up outside. Here too find
world-class art, architecture and
delightfully scenic drives.






Germany

Here the majestic Rhine snakes
through churning whirlpools, vast
vineyards and medieval villages.
And all around storybook castles
crown jagged cliffs.


Switzerland

Switzerland is simply spectacular,
with dazzling scenery at every
turn: pristine lakes, lush
meadows, snow-dusted Alps. Add
cosmopolitan cities and you have
a country making it easy to drive
deep into its heart.




Austria

White-knuckle Alpine passes
usher in a wealth of adrenaline
sports, from year-round skiing
Italy to windsurfing and white-water
rafting, while pretty castles and
Epicentre of the Roman dense forests frame the majestic,
Empire and birthplace of the mighty Danube.
Renaissance, this sun-kissed
virtuoso serves up sublime music,
food and wine.

23

24 24

Italy











FEW COUNTRIES CAN RIVAL ITALY’S
WEALTH OF RICHES. Its historic cities boast
iconic monuments and masterpieces at every
turn, its food is imitated the world over and its
landscape is a majestic patchwork of snow-
capped peaks, plunging coastlines, lakes and
remote valleys. And with many thrilling roads
to explore, it offers plenty of epic driving.

The trips outlined in this section run the length
of the country, leading from Alpine summits
to southern volcanoes, and from hilltop towns
in Tuscany to fishing villages on the Amalfi
Coast. They take in heavyweight cities and
little-known gems, and cover a wide range
of experiences. So whether you want to tour
gourmet towns, historic vineyards or idyllic
coastlines, we have a route for you.

Amalfi Coast Positano
TSOMCHAT/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

GERMANY #


Italy
AUSTRIA
# ^ Innsbruck
4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 44
4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 444444444444444
4 4 4 44 4 4
4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 44444
SWITZERLAND R Bolzano Tarvisio
4 4
4 4 4 4 4 4 44444
4 4
44444444444444444444444
4 4 44
44444444444 4 4444 444444444444444444444444444444444444444444 (3343m) LJUBLJANA # _ SLOVENIA
444444444
# ]
# \
R
Monte
Ortles
Locarno
Lago di
Marmolada
Bianco
(3905m)
# ]
(4810m) Verbania
Como
# ^
4 4444 44444444444444444 #] Como
Trento
Lago
R
Bergamo
4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 444444444444444
# ]
F G
4 4 4 4 4
4444444444444444444444444 # ^Maggiore 4444444444444444 5 # ] # ] Padua # ^Trieste
Lago di
Aosta
2
# ]
# ] FG
# ] Garda
# ^
# ^ Venice
Brescia
4444444444 Turin
Milan
# ^
Verona
Monte
Rijeka
4444444444
Viso
4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 # ^ Asti # ] FG Piacenza # ] Comacchio Kvarner
# ]
1
(3841m)
# ]
R Alessandria
Valle di
Modena
Gulf
Monte
# ^
Croce
FRANCE Genoa (1314m) # ^ Bologna
# \ FG
Ventimiglia 7 R Florence SAN CROATIA
# _ MONACO Pisa # ] # ^ MARINO Ancona
MONACO F G Lago # ^
3
Trasimeno Ascoli Adriatic
Montepulciano # \ # ^ Piceno Sea
Monte Amiata R F G Perugia # ]
5
(1736m) Corno Grande
Lago di
Bolsena # ] L'Aquila # ^ R (2912m)
Viterbo R Monte Amaro
FRANCE (2795m) Vieste
ROME # _ R Frosinone # \
Monte Cavo # ]
Santa (949m) F G Foggia # ] Bari
1
Teresa di # \
Gallura Mt Vesuvius # ^
(1281m)
# ] Olbia Naples
# ] Ischia # ^R # ] Salerno # ^ Taranto
Sassari Nuoro Capri # \ F G Potenza # ] Lecce
# ]
# ] Vico Equense 4 Monte Pollino
Golfo di (2248m) # \
R Salerno R Gallipoli
Oristano # ] Punta Tyrrhenian
La Marmora Sea
Iglesias (1834m)
# ] Cosenza # ]
# ^ # ] Crotone
Cagliari
Vibo
# ]
Valentia
Messina
Trapani # ^ Palermo Mt Etna # ]
# ] R (3340m) # \ Taormina
Marsala # \ Pizzo R Ionian Sea
F G Carbonara # ] Catania
6
(1979m)
M E D I T E R R A N E A N # ]
S E A Agrigento # ] Syracuse
Ragusa # ] : :
: : :
e 0 0 150 miles 300 km
26

DON'T
MISS


Scrovegni Chapel
See the Renaissance
FROG DARES/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
blossoming through
the tears in Giotto’s
moving frescoes for the
Scrovegni Chapel on
Trip 1

Montalcino
Crowned by a 14th-
century fort, this hilltop
town produces one of
Italy’s top red wines.
Indulge yourself on Trip
3
Sicily Noto Cathedral
Vietri sul Mare
Bring back a piece of
Grand Tour 12–14 Days the Amalfi Coast from
1 The classic cultural tour – part pilgrimage, part this seaside centre,
rite of passage. (p29) renowned for its bright-
hued ceramics, on Trip
The Graceful Italian Lakes 5–7 Days
2 The destination of choice for Goethe, Hemingway 4
and George Clooney. (p43)
Tuscan Wine Tour 4 Days Noto
3 Red wine fuels this jaunt around historic Chianti Stroll one of Italy’s
vineyards and Tuscan cellars. (p55) most beautiful town
centres, admiring golden
Amalfi Coast 7 Days
4 A stunning coastline of vertical landscapes and baroque buildings in the
chic resort towns. (p65) southern Sicilian sun on
Trip 6
World Heritage Wonders 14 Days
5 Discover the Unesco-listed treasures of Italy’s art
cities. (p75)
Wonders of Ancient Sicily 12–14 Days
6 Unearth Sicily’s ancient Greek temples, Byzantine
treasures and bewitching baroque towns. (p89)
Italian Riviera 4 Days
7 Seaside bastions, palm-fringed promenades, belle
époque villas. (p101)


27

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
uri
140
240
240
440
541
6
841
941






































Location Caption details to go here

DAVID CLAPP/GETTY IMAGES ©
Grand Tour 1








The gap-year journey of its day, the Grand Tour is a search for art
and enlightenment, adventure and debauchery.



TRIP HIGHLIGHTS
12–14 DAYS
555 km 1390KM /
Venice 865 MILES
Marvel at
marble palaces
l L Verona # and gold mosaics GREAT FOR…
## #
4
Turin #
# BH
BEST TIME TO GO
## #
6
# 710 km Spring (March to May)
is perfect for urban
Siena # Florence sightseeing.
Enjoy the
world’s greatest
Renaissance hits ESSENTIAL
Viterbo # I PHOTO
## #
# Florence’s
8
multicoloured, marble
duomo (cathedral).
m K
# BEST FOR
## #
9
K
Rome Naples HISTORY
Catch up on Ponder the fallen in Rome, the repository
2000 years of Pompeii and the
Western history treasures they left behind of over 2500 years of
European history.
1070 km 1390 km
R Location Caption details to go hereome Interior of St Peter's Basilica 29

Aosta Varese #
]
# ^
]
VALLE 0 ¸ #
A26
D' AOSTA Milan
L
l H 0 ¸ ] # ^
#
A4
#
Novara
Turin p32
# ^ PIEDMONT
# 0 ¸ # Tortona 0 ¸ ]
# 1
A21
#
Piacenza
A21
]
]
#
1 Grand Tour Alessandria 0 ¸ 0 ¸
0 ¸
A7
E74
A26
Cuneo
# ^ #
2
]
# Savona #
#
] Genoa
LIGURIA
From the Savoy palaces of Turin and Leonardo’s Last FRANCE 0 ¸ Golfo di La Spezia
Genova
A8
Supper to the dubious drinking dens of Genoa and MONACO ] Imperia
#
the pleasure palaces of Rome, the Grand Tour is Ligurian
part scholar’s pilgrimage and part rite of passage. Sea
Offering a chance to view some of the world’s
greatest masterpieces and hear Vivaldi played on
18th-century cellos, it is a rollicking trip filled with
the sights, sounds and tastes that have shaped
European society for centuries. FRANCE
Corsica
MEDITERRANEAN
SEA
First they travelled
1 Turin through France before
In his travel guide, Voy- crossing the Alps at Mt
age through Italy (1670), Cenis and heading to Sassari SARDINIA
#
]
travel writer and tutor Turin (Torino), where
letters of introduction
Richard Lassels advo-
cated a grand cultural admitted them to the
tour of Europe, and in city’s agreeable Parisian- Like the Medicis in
particular Italy, for young style social whirl. Turin’s Florence (Firenze) and
English aristocrats, dur- tree-lined boulevards the Borghese in Rome
still retain their elegant,
ing which the study of (Roma), Turin’s Savoy
classical antiquity and French feel and many princes had a penchant
the High Renaissance turn-of-the century cafes, for extravagant architec-
would ready them for such as Caffè San Carlo ture and interior decor.
future influential roles (Piazza San Carlo 156; h8am- You suspect they also
shaping the political, eco- midnight Tue-Fri, to 1am Sat, pined for their hunting
nomic and social realities to 9pm Mon), still serve lodges in Chambéry,
of the day. Torinese hot chocolate France, from where they
beneath their gilded originated, as they
chandeliers.
30

# LOMBARDY VENETO SLOVENIA
]
Treviso
# ] Bergamo Garda Vicenza 0¸ # ^ Trieste
Lake
]
#
Milan # ] Verona ] A4
#
#
# ^ Venice
4
^ Brescia 0 ¸ # # # #
#
A4
] #
3
]
Novara 0 ¸ Mantua Padua Brenta CROATIA
Riviera
0 ¸ A1 # # ] 0 ¸
]
A21
#
]
Tortona Piacenza Cremona A13
]
# 0 ¸ # ]Ferrara
A22
0 ¸ ROMAGNA
EMILIA-
A7
Modena # ]
^ #
# Bologna
# # ]Ravenna
5
^ 0 ¸
#
A14
Genoa 0 ¸ # ]
A1
Golfo di Forlì # ]Rimini
#
Genova ]
La Spezia 0 ¸
Lucca E45 SAN MARINO
# ] I # ITALY 1 GRAND TOuR
^ #
#
6
# Florence
Pisa # ] p114 Greve in #Ancona Adriatic
^
Sea
Livorno # \ # Chianti ] Arezzo LE MARCHE
]
#
Siena #
]
TUSCANY Perugia
0 ¸ F G 0 ¸ Piceno
Ascoli
^
#
3
E78
E45
Grosseto Orvieto UMBRIA 0 ¸ # ]
SS4
# ] \ #
Elba Lago di 0¸ 0 ¸
A1
A24
Bolsena ABRUZZO # Pescara
]
FRANCE Viterbo # 7 # ] # ^
#
L'Aquila 0 ¸
A14
LAZIO
Corsica
Rome#
#
8
#
I MOLISE
]
]
p112 #Frosinone # Isernia Foggia #
]
Tyrrhenian # ] 0 ¸
Sea Latina A1
Benevento
0 ¸
]
#
A16
m K Caserta # CAMPANIA
]
^ #
100 km
# e 0 0 50 miles Naples 9 # # Pompeii
#Salerno
\
#
4
]
SARDINIA F G ‚
LINK
invited André le Nôtre, YOUR
Versailles landscaper, TRIP
to design the gardens Tuscan Wine Amalfi Coast
of Palazzo Reale (www. 3 4
ilpalazzorealeditorino.it; Tour Play truant from
Piazza Castello; adult/reduced Linger in the bucolic high-minded museums
€12/6, 1st Sun of month free; hills around Florence and head south from
h8.30am-7.30pm Tue-Sun) and enjoy fine gourmet Naples for the Blue
in 1697. dining and world- Ribbon drive on the
renowned wine-tasting. Amalfi Coast.
5 p40
31

The Drive » The two-hour stalked by prostitutes streets in Europe. Visit
(170km) drive to Genoa is all and beggars, while the the finest of them, the
on autostrada, the final stretch excessive shrewdness of Palazzo Spinola (www.
twisting through the mountains. the Genovese banking palazzospinola.beniculturali.
Leave Turin following signs for families earned them a it; Piazza Superiore di Pellic-
the A55 (towards Alessandria), reputation, according to ceria 1; adult/reduced €4/2;
which quickly merges with the
A21 passing through the pretty author Thomas Nugent, h8.30am-7.30pm Tue-Sat,
Piedmontese countryside. Just as ‘a treacherous and from 1.30pm Sun) and the
before Alessandria turn south over-reaching set of Palazzo Reale (www.
onto the A26 for Genoa/Livorno. people’. palazzorealegenova.benicul
And yet with tour- turali.it; Via Balbi 10; adult/
ists and businessmen reduced €4/2; h9am-7pm
2 Genoa arriving from around the Tue-Sat, 1.30-7pm Sun). After
Some travellers, shy of world, Genoa was, and stop for sweets at Pietro
crossing the Alps, might still is, a cosmopolitan Romanengo fu Stefano
arrive by boat in Genoa place. The Rolli Palaces, (www.romanengo.com; Via
(Genova). Despite its a collection of grand Soziglia 74r; h3.30-7.30pm
ITALY 1 GRAND TOuR
superb location, mild mansions originally Mon, 9am-1pm & 3.15-7.15pm
microclimate and lush meant to host visiting Tue-Sat).
flora, the city had a popes, dignitaries and 5 p40, p107
dubious reputation. Its royalty, made Via Balbi
historic centre was a and Strada Nuova (now The Drive » This 365km
warren of dark, insalubri- Via Giuseppe Garibaldi) drive takes most of the day,
ous caruggi (alleys), two of the most famous so stop for lunch in Cremona
(p40). Although the drive is
on autostrada, endless fields
of corn line the route. Take the
A7 north out of Genoa and at
DETOUR: Tortona exit onto the A21 around
MILAN industrial Piacenza to Brescia.
At Brescia, change again onto
Start: 1 Turin (p30) the A4 direct to Padua.
No Grand Tour would be complete without a detour
up the A4 to Milan (Milano) to eyeball Leonardo da
Vinci’s iconic mural The Last Supper (Il Cenacolo; 3 Padua
%02 9280 0360; www.cenacolovinciano.net; Piazza Santa Bound for Venice
Maria delle Grazie 2; adult/reduced €6.50/3.25; h8.15am- (Venezia), Grand Tour-
7pm Tue-Sun; mCadorna). Advance booking is essential ists could hardly avoid
(booking fee €1.50). visiting Padua (Padova),
From his Portrait of a Young Man (c 1486) to although by the 18th
portraits of Duke Ludovico Sforza’s beautiful century international
mistresses, The Lady with the Ermine (c 1489) and students no longer
La Belle Ferronière (c 1490), Leonardo transformed flocked to Palazzo del Bò
the rigid conventions of portraiture to depict highly (%049 827 30 47; www.unipd.
individual images imbued with naturalism. Then it/en/guidedtours; Via VIII
he evolved concepts of idealised proportions and Febbraio; adult/reduced €7/2;
the depiction of internal emotional states through hsee website for tour times),
physical dynamism (St Jerome), all of which cohere the Venetian Republic’s
in the masterly Il Cenacolo.. radical university where
Copernicus and Galileo
taught classes.


32

You can visit the uni- Sun winter; fSan Marco),
versity’s claustrophobic, TRIP HIGHLIGHT Venice was considered an
wooden anatomy theatre exciting den of debauch-
(the first in the world), 4 Venice ery. Venetian wives were
although it’s no longer de Top of the itinerary, Ven- notorious for keeping
rigueur to witness dissec- ice at last! Then, as now, handsome escorts (cicis-
tions on the average tour- La Serenissima’s watery beo), courtesans held
ist itinerary. Afterwards landscape captured the powerful positions at
don’t forget to pay your imagination of travellers. court and much time was
respects to the skulls At Carnivale (www.carni- devoted to frequenting
of noble professors who vale.venezia.it) in Febru- casinos and coffeehouses.
donated themselves for ary numbers swelled Caffè Florian (%041 520
dissection because of to 30,000; now they 56 41; www.caffeflorian.com;
the difficulty involved in number in the hundreds Piazza San Marco 56/59; drinks ITALY 1 GRAND TOuR
acquiring fresh corpses. of thousands. You cannot €10-25; h9am-midnight;
Their skulls are lined up take your car onto the fSan Marco) still adheres
in the graduation hall. lagoon islands so leave to rules established in
Beyond the university it in a secure garage in the 1700s.
the melancholy air of the Mestre, such as Garage So do as the Venetians
city did little to detain Europa Mestre (%041 would do: glide down the
foreign visitors. Even 95 92 02; www.garageeuro- Grand Canal on the No
Giotto’s spectacular pamestre.com; Corso del 1 Vaporetto (ticket €7.50)
frescoes in the Cappella Popolo 55, Mestre; per day €15; for an architectural tour
degli Scrovegni (Scrovegni h8am-10pm), and hop on of 50 palazzi (mansions),
Chapel; %049 201 00 20; the train to Venice Santa gossip in the balconies
www.cappelladegliscrovegni. Lucia where water taxis of the Teatro La Fenice
it; Piazza Eremitani 8; adult/ connect to all the islands. (%041 78 66 72, tours 041
reduced €13/6, night ticket Aside from the mind- 78 66 75; www.teatrolafenice.
€8/6; h9am-7pm), where improving art in the it; Campo San Fantin 1965;
advance reservations are Gallerie dell’Accademia theatre visits adult/reduced
essential, were of limited (%041 520 03 45; www. €10/7, concert/opera tickets
interest given medieval gallerieaccademia.org; Campo from €15/45; fSanta Maria
art was out of fashion, della Carità 1050; adult/ dei Giglio), or listen for
and only devout Catholics reduced €10/8 plus supple- summer thunderstorms
ventured to revere the ment during special exhibitions, in Vivaldi’s Four Seasons,
strange relics of Saint first Sun of the month free; played by Interpreti
Anthony in the Basilica h8.15am-2pm Mon, to 7.15pm Veneziani (%041 277 05
di Sant’Antonio (Il Santo; Tue-Sun; fAccademia) and 61; www.interpretiveneziani.
%049 822 56 52; www.ba- extraordinary architec- com; Chiesa San Vidal, Campo
silicadelsanto.org; Piazza del tural masterpieces such di San Vidal 2862; adult/re-
Santo; h6.20am-7.45pm Apr- as the Palazzo Ducale, duced €28/23; hdoors open
Oct, to 6.45pm Nov-Mar). the Campanile, Long- 8.30pm; fAccademia).
The Drive » Barely 40km hena’s Chiesa di Santa For more earthly
from Venice, the drive from Maria della Salute and pleasures take a tour of
Padua is through featureless the glittering domes of Venice’s centuries-old
areas of light industry along the the Basilica di San Marco markets with a gourmet
A4 and then the A57. (St Mark’s Basilica; %041 270 food walk.
83 11; www.basilicasan 54 p40, p87
marco.it; Piazza San Marco;
h9.45am-5pm Mon-Sat, The Drive » Retrace your
2-5pm Sun summer, to 4pm steps to Padua on the A57 and

33

WHY THIS IS A DE AGOSTINI/A. DAGLI ORTI/GETTY IMAGES ©
GREAT TRIP
PAULA HARDY,
WRITER
There’s almost no need to explain
why the Grand Tour is a classic trip.
DEA / G. CIGOLINI/GETTY IMAGES ©
It is the template for all modern
travel itineraries, where for the first
time people travelled for curiosity,
pleasure and learning. Covering
Italy’s show-stopping cities, it offers
travellers a view of the country’s
very best art, architecture and
antiquities, while transporting them
from alpine peaks to sun-struck
southern shores.


Top: Anatomy theatre, University of Padua
Left: Hall of Mirrors, Palazzo Reale, Genoa
Right: Teatro La Fenice, Venice

A4 and navigate around the ring
road in the direction of Bologna
to pick up the A13 southwest for
this short two-hour drive. After
Padua the dual carriageway
dashes through wide-open
farmland and crosses the Po
JUSTIN FOULKES/LONELY PLANET ©
river, which forms the southern
border of the Veneto.

5 Bologna
Home to Europe’s oldest
university (established
in 1088) and once the ITALY 1 GRAND TOuR
stomping ground of
Dante, Boccaccio and
Petrarch, Bologna had an
enviable reputation for
courtesy and culture. Its
historic centre, complete
with 20 soaring towers,
is one of the best-
preserved medieval cit-
ies in the world. In the
Basilica di San Petronio
(www.basilicadisanpetronio.it;
Piazza Maggiore; h7.45am-
2pm & 3-6pm), originally
intended to dwarf St Pe-
ter’s in Rome, Giovanni
Cassini’s sundial (1655)
proved the problems
with the Julian calendar
giving us the leap year,
while Bolognesi stu-
dents advanced human
knowledge in obstetrics,
natural science, zool-
ogy and anthropology.
You can peer at their
strange model wax-
works and studiously
labelled collections in
the Palazzo Poggi (www.
museopalazzopoggi.unibo.it;
Via Zamboni 33; adult/reduced
€5/3; h10am-1pm Tue-Sun
mid-Jun–mid-Sep, 10am-4pm
Tue-Fri, 10.30am-5.30pm Sat &
Sun mid-Sep–mid-Jun).


35

In art as in science, Maria del Fiore; www.oper- The Drive » The next 210km,
the School of Bologna aduomo.firenze.it; Piazza del continuing south along the
gave birth to the Car- Duomo; h10am-5pm Mon-Wed A1, travels through some of
racci cousins Ludovico, & Fri, to 4pm Thu, to 4.45pm Sat, Italy’s most lovely scenery.
Agostino and Annibale, 1.30-4.45pm Sun) to Michel- Just southwest of Florence the
who were among the angelo’s and Botticelli’s vineyards of Greve in Chianti
harbour some great farmstays,
founding fathers of Ital- greatest hits, David and while Arezzo is to the east. At
ian baroque and were The Birth of Venus, in the Orvieto exit onto the SS71 and
deeply influenced by the Galleria dell’Accademia skirt Lago di Bolsena for the final
Counter-Reformation. (%055 29 48 83; www. 45km into Viterbo.
See their emotionally firenzemusei.it; Via Ricasoli 60;
charged blockbusters in adult/reduced €8/4, incl tem-
the Pinacoteca Nazion- porary exhibition €12.50/6.25; 7 Viterbo
ale (www.pinacotecabologna. h8.15am-6.50pm Tue-Sun) From Florence the road
beniculturali.it; Via delle Belle and the Galleria degli to Rome crossed the
Arti 56; adult/reduced €4/2; Uffizi (Uffizi Gallery; www. dreaded and pestilential
h9am-1.30pm Tue & Wed, uffizi.beniculturali.it; Piazzale campagna (countryside),
ITALY 1 GRAND TOuR
2-7pm Thu-Sun). degli Uffizi 6; adult/reduced a swampy, mosquito-
€8/4, incl temporary exhibition infested low-lying area.
54 p41 €12.50/6.25; h8.15am- Unlike now, inns en route
The Drive » Bologna sits at 6.50pm Tue-Sun), Florence, were uncomfortable and
the intersection of the A1, A13 according to Unesco, con- hazardous, so travellers
and A14. Navigate west out of tains the highest number hurried through Siena,
the city, across the river Reno, of artistic masterpieces in stocking up on wine for
onto the A1. From here it’s a the world.
straight shot into Florence for Whereas Rome the rough road ahead.
100km, leaving the Po plains They also stopped briefly
behind you and entering the low and Milan have torn in medieval Viterbo for
hills of Emilia-Romagna and the themselves down and a quick douse in the
forested valleys of Tuscany. been rebuilt many times, thermal springs at the
incorporating a multitude Terme dei Papi (%0761 35
of architectural whims,
TRIP HIGHLIGHT 03 90; www.termedeipapi.it;
central Florence looks Strada Bagni 12; pool adult/child
6 Florence much as it did in 1550, €12/8, Sun €18/8; h9am-7pm
From Brunelleschi’s red- with stone towers and Wed-Mon, plus 9pm-1am Sat),
tiled dome atop Florence’s cypress-lined gardens. and a tour of the High Re-
Duomo (Cattedrale di Santa naissance spectacle that
54 p41, p63, p86
is the Villa Lante (%0761
28 80 08; Via Jacopo Barozzi
71; adult/reduced €5/2.50;
TOP TIP: h8.30am-1hr before sunset
JUMP THE QUEUE IN Tue-Sun).
FLORENCE
The Drive » Rejoin the A1
In July, August and other busy periods such as after a 28km drive along the
Easter, long queues are a fact of life at Florence’s key rural SS675. For the next 40km
museums. For a fee of €4 each, tickets to the Uffizi the A1 descends slowly into
and Galleria dell’Accademia (where David lives) can Lazio, criss-crossing the river
be booked in advance. To organise your ticket, go to Tevere and keeping the ridge of
the Apennines to the left as it
www.firenzemusei.it or call Firenze Musei (%055 29 darts through tunnels. At Fiano
48 83; www.firenzemusei.it).


36

Romano exit for Roma Nord
onto the A1dir for the final 20km TOP TIP:
descent into the capital. ROME INFORMATION
LINE

TRIP HIGHLIGHT The Comune di Roma (city council) runs a free
8 Rome multilingual information line (%06 06 08; h9am-
9pm), providing information on culture, shows, hotels,
In the 18th century Rome, transport etc. You can also book theatre, concert,
even in ruins, was still exhibition and museum tickets on this number. The
thought of as the august call centre, has staff who speak English, French,
capital of the world. Here Arabic, German, Spanish, Italian and Chinese
more than anywhere available from 4pm to 7pm.
the Grand Tourist was
awakened to an interest ITALY 1 GRAND TOuR
in art and architecture, his love poems and died at antique perfumery
although the Colosseum of consumption. Officina Profumo Farma-
(Colosseo; %06 3996 7700; Although the Pantheon ceutica di Santa Maria
www.coopculture.it; Piazza (www.pantheonroma.com; Pi- Novella (www.smnovella.
del Colosseo; adult/reduced azza della Rotonda; h8.30am- it; Corso del Rinascimento 47;
incl Roman Forum & Palatino 7.30pm Mon-Sat, 9am-6pm Sun; h10am-7.30pm Mon-Sat;
€12/7.50; h8.30am-1hr before gLargo di Torre Argentina) gCorso del Rinascimento).
sunset; mColosseo) was still and Vatican Museums
filled with debris and the (Musei Vaticani; %06 6988 54 p41, p86
Palatine Hill was covered 4676; http://mv.vatican.va; The Drive » Past Rome the
in gardens, its excavated Viale Vaticano; adult/reduced landscape is hotter and drier,
treasures slowly accu- €16/8, last Sun of month free; trees give way to Mediterranean
mulating in the world’s h9am-4pm Mon-Sat, 9am- shrubbery and the grass starts
oldest national museum, 12.30pm last Sun of month; to yellow. Beyond the vineyards
the Capitoline Museums mOttaviano-San Pietro) were of Frascati, just 20km south of
Rome, the A1 heads straight to
(Musei Capitolini; %06 06 a must, most travellers Naples (Napoli) for 225km, a
08; www.museicapitolini.org; preferred to socialise two-hour drive that often takes
Piazza del Campidoglio 1; adult/ in the grounds of the much longer due to heavy traffic.
reduced €12/10; h9.30am- Borghese Palace (%06 3
7.30pm, last admission 6.30pm; 28 10; www.galleriaborghese. TRIP HIGHLIGHT
gPiazza Venezia). it; Piazzale del Museo Borghese
Arriving through the 5; adult/reduced €11/6.50; 9 Naples
Porta del Popolo, visitors h8.30am-7.30pm Tue-Sun; Only the more adven-
first spied the dome of St gVia Pinciana). turous Grand Tourists
Peter’s (Basilica di San Pietro; Follow their example continued south to the
www.vatican.va; St Peter’s Sq; and mix the choicest salacious city of Naples.
h7am-7pm summer, to 6.30pm sights with more venal At the time Mt Vesu-
winter; mOttaviano-San pleasures such as fine vius glowed menacingly,
Pietro) before clattering dining at Open Colonna erupting six times during
along the corso to the (%06 4782 2641; www. the 18th century and eight
customs house. Once antonellocolonna.it; Via Milano times in the 19th century.
done, they headed to 9a; meals €20-80; h12.30- But Naples was the home
Piazza di Spagna, the 3.30pm Tue-Sun, 7-11.30pm of opera and commedia
city’s principal meeting Tue-Sat; a; gVia Nazionale) dell’arte (improvised
place where Keats penned and souvenir shopping comedic satire), and



37

singing lessons and seats
at Teatro San Carlo (%081
797 23 31; www.teatrosancarlo.
it; Via San Carlo 98; hbox JUSTIN FOULKES/LONELY PLANET ©
office 10am-5.30pm Mon-Sat,
to 2pm Sun; gR2 to Via San
Carlo) were obligatory.
Then there were the
myths of Virgil and
Dante to explore at Lago
d’Averno and Campi
Flegrei (the Phlegrean
Fields). After the discovery
of Pompeii (%081 857 53
47; www.pompeiisites.org;
entrances at Porta Marina, Pi-
azza Esedra & Piazza Anfiteatro;
ITALY 1 GRAND TOuR
adult/reduced €13/7.50, incl
Herculaneum €22/12; h9am-
7.30pm summer, to 5pm winter)
in 1748, the unfolding
drama of a Roman town
in its death throes drew
throngs of visitors. Then,
as now, it was the most
popular tourist sight in
Italy and its priceless
mosaics, frescoes and
colossal sculptures filled
the Museo Archeologico
Nazionale (%081 442 21 49;
http://cir.campania.beniculturali.
it/museoarcheologiconazionale;
Piazza Museo Nazionale 19;
adult/reduced €8/4; h9am-
7.30pm Wed-Mon; mMuseo,
Piazza Cavour).
4 p41
















38

Florence View of the red-tiled dome of the Duomo

39

Eating & Sleeping



Turin 1 Venice 4
6 Fiorio Cafe 5 Dalla Marisa Venetian $$
(Via Po 8; h8.30am-1am Tue-Sun) Garner (%041 72 02 11; Fondamenta di San Giobbe
literary inspiration in Mark Twain’s old window 652b, Cannaregio; set menu lunch/dinner
seat as you contemplate the gilded interior of a €15/35; hnoon-3pm daily, 7-11pm Thu-Sat;
cafe where 19th-century students once plotted fCrea) At this Cannaregio institution, you’ll
revolutions and the Count of Cavour deftly be seated where there’s room and get no
ITALY 1 GRAND TOuR
played whist. The bittersweet hot chocolate menu – you’ll have whatever Marisa’s cooking.
remains inspirational. And you’ll like it. Lunches are a bargain at €15
for a first, main, side, wine, water and coffee –
pace yourself through prawn risotto to finish
Genoa 2 with steak and grilled zucchini, or Marisa will
jokingly scold you over coffee.
5 Trattoria della Raibetta Trattoria $$
(%010 246 88 77; www.trattoriadellaraibetta. 5 Ristoteca Oniga Venetian $$
it; Vico Caprettari 10-12; meals €35; hnoon- (%041 522 44 10; www.oniga.it; Campo San
2.30pm & 7.30-11pm Tue-Sun) Totally typica Barnaba 2852; meals €19-35; hnoon-2.30pm
Genoese food can be found in the family-run & 7-10.30pm Wed-Mon; W; fCa’ Rezzonico)
joints hidden in the warren of streets near the Its menu peppered with organic ingredients,
cathedral. This, a snug trattoria with a low brick- Oniga serves exemplary sarde in saor (sardines
vaulted ceiling, serves regional classics such in tangy onion marinade), seasonal pastas and
as trofiette al pesto or octopus salad alongside the odd Hungarian classic like goulash (a nod
excellent fresh fish. to former chef Annika Major). Oenophiles will
appreciate the selection of 100-plus wines,
handy for toasting to the €19 set lunch menu.
Cremona 2 Grab a sunny spot in the campo, or get cosy in a
wood-panelled corner.
5 La Sosta Osteria $$ 4 Ca’ Angeli Boutique Hotel $$
(%0372 45 66 56; www.osterialasosta.it; Via
Sicardo 9; meals €35-40; h12.15-2pm Tue-Sun, (%041 523 24 80; www.caangeli.it; Calle del
7.15-10pm Tue-Sat) La Sosta is surrounded Traghetto de la Madoneta 1434, San Polo; d
by violin-makers’ workshops and is a suitably €95-225, ste from €200; aW; fSan Silvestro)
harmonious place to feast on regional delicacies Murano glass chandeliers, a Louis XIV love-seat
such as tortelli di zucca (pumpkin pasta parcels) and namesake 16th-century angels set a refined
and baked snails. The entrance is plastered with tone at this restored, canalside palazzo. Guest
so many approving restaurant-guide stickers rooms are a picture with beamed ceilings,
that you can’t see through the glass. antique carpets and big bathrooms, while the
dining room looks out onto the Grand Canal.
Breakfast includes organic products where
possible.





40

Bologna 5 Rome 8
5 All’Osteria Bottega Osteria $$ 5 Necci Cafe $$
(%051 58 51 11; Via Santa Caterina 51; meals (%06 9760 1552; www.necci1924.com; Via
€35-40; h12.30-2.30pm & 8-10.30pm Tue-Sat) Fanfulla da Lodi 68; dinner around €45, lunch
At this osteria truly worthy of the name, owners mains around €8; h8am-2am; W; jVia
Daniele and Valeria lavish attention on every Prenestina) Iconic Necci opened as a gelateria
table between trips to the kitchen for plates of in 1924 and later became a favourite of director
culatello di Zibello ham, tortellini in capon broth, Pier Paolo Pasolini. Good for a drink or a meal,
pork shank in red wine reduction and other it serves up sophisticated Italian cooking to an
Slow Food delights. Desserts are homemade by eclectic crowd of all ages, with a lovely, leafy
Valeria, from the ciambella (Romagnola ring- garden terrace (ideal for families).
shaped cake) to fresh fruit sorbets.
5 Enoteca Regionale ITALY 1 GRAND TOuR
4 Bologna nel Cuore B&B $$ Palatium Ristorante $$$
(%051 26 94 42; www.bolognanelcuore.it; Via (%06 6920 2132; Via Frattina 94; meals €55;
Cesare Battisti 29; s €80-100, d €100-140, apt h11am-11pm Mon-Sat, closed Aug; gVia del
€125-130; paW) This centrally located, Corso) A rich showcase of regional bounty, run
immaculate and well-loved B&B features a pair by the Lazio Regional Food Authority, this sleek
of bright, high-ceilinged rooms with pretty tiled wine bar serves excellent local specialities,
bathrooms and endless mod cons, plus two such as porchetta (pork roasted with herbs)
comfortable, spacious apartments with kitchen or gnocchi alla Romana con crema da zucca
and laundry facilities. Owner and art historian (potato dumplings Roman-style with cream
Maria generously shares her knowledge of of pumpkin), as well as an impressive array of
Bologna and serves breakfasts featuring jams Lazio wines (try lesser-known drops such as
made with fruit picked near her childhood home Aleatico).
in the Dolomites.
4 Hotel Scalinata di Spagna Hotel $$
(%06 6994 0896; www.hotelscalinata.com;
Florence 6 Piazza della Trinità dei Monti 17; d €130-260;
aiW; mSpagna) Given its location –
5 I Due Fratellini Sandwiches $ perched alongside the Spanish Steps – the
(%055 239 60 96; www.iduefratellini.com; Via Scalinata is surprisingly modestly priced. An
dei Cimatori 38r; panini €3; h10am-7pm) This informal and friendly place, it’s something
hole-in-the-wall has been in business since of a warren, with a great roof terrace and low
1875. Wash panini down with a beaker of wine corridors leading off to smallish, old-fashioned
and leave the empties on the wooden shelf yet romantic rooms. Book early for a room with
outside. a view.
4 Palazzo Guadagni Hotel Hotel $$
(%055 265 83 76; www.palazzoguadagni.com; Naples 9
Piazza Santo Spirito 9; d €130-230; aW) This
romantic hotel overlooking Florence’s liveliest 4 Grand Hotel Vesuvio Hotel $$$
summertime square is legendary – Zeffirelli (%081 764 00 44; www.vesuvio.it; Via Partenope
shot scenes from Tea with Mussolini here. 45; s/d €280/310; aiW; g128 to Via
Housed in an artfully revamped Renaissance Santa Lucia) Known for hosting legends – past
palace, it has 15 spacious if old-fashioned rooms guests include Rita Hayworth and Humphrey
and an impossibly romantic loggia terrace with Bogart – this five-star heavyweight is a
wicker chairs and predictably dreamy views. decadent melange of dripping chandeliers,
period antiques and opulent rooms. Count
your lucky stars while drinking a martini at the
rooftop restaurant.


41

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Location Caption details to go here

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RENE HARTMANN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
The Graceful
Italian Lakes 2







Writers from Goethe to Hemingway have lavished praise on the
Italian lakes, dramatically ringed by snow-powdered mountains
and garlanded by grand villas and exotic, tropical flora.

TRIP HIGHLIGHTS
5–7 DAYS
36 km 132 km 213KM / 132 MILES
Cannobio Bellagio
The prettiest medieval Bounded by classic
hamlet on Lake gardens brimming GREAT FOR…
Maggiore with camellias
BHJ
# #
3
# #
BEST TIME TO GO
# #
# #
6
April to June, when
Baveno Laveno the camellias are in
# #
l L # Lecco full bloom.
#
#
# 1
#
# # ESSENTIAL
5
# #
I PHOTO
m K gardens of Palazzo
#
#
Bergamo The cascading
Borromeo.
K BEST FOR
GLAMOUR
Stresa Touring Bellagio’s
A perfect setting for Como headland in a
sunsets over the Silk souvenirs and mahogany cigarette
Borromean palaces lakeside swimming
boat.
0 km 113 km
B Location Caption details to go hereellagio The gardens of Villa Melzi d’Eril on the banks of Lago di Como 43

Malesco 0¸ # \
SS337
Melezzo \ #
0 ¸
SS631
Falmenta # \
Valle Cannobina
#
3
Parco Cannobio #
Nazionale
Val Grande
2 The Graceful Mergozzo # Ghiffa # \
8
À
SS34
Italian Lakes
Lago di
À
8
Verbania
SS34
# #
] #
2
Á
Formed at the end of the last ice age, and a popular Baveno 0 ¸ Pallanza \ \ # 9
# \
Laveno
SS33
\
#
L
#
holiday spot since Roman times, the Italian lakes H Monte l SP394dir Parco Regionale
#
# Stresa
] # 1
R
8
À
p46
Campo dei
have an enduring natural beauty. At Lago Maggiore Mottarone Lago SP1var Fiori
(1491m)
(Lake Maggiore) the palaces of the Borromean Lago Maggiore
d'Orta
Islands lie like a fleet of fine vessels in the gulf, their Orta San # \ Ranco Lago di Riserva
\
#
Monate
Naturale
grand ballrooms and shell-encrusted grottoes once Giulio 0 ¸ # Arona Brabbia
\
host to Napoleon and Princess Diana, while the siren 0 ¸
E62
A26
call of Lago di Como (Lake Como) draws Arabian 0 ¸
A8/26
sheikhs and Hollywood movie stars to its discreet
forested slopes. 0 ¸
A26
PIEDMONT
River Sesia
Bella took the name of
TRIP HIGHLIGHT Carlo III’s wife, the
1 Stresa bella Isabella, in the 0 ¸
A4
More than Como and 17th century, when its
centrepiece, Palazzo
Garda, Lago Maggiore Borromeo (%0323 3 05 56;
has retained the belle www.isoleborromee.it; Isola
époque air of its early Bella; adult/child €15/8.50,
tourist heyday. Attracted incl Palazzo Madre adult/child palace, the Galleria dei
by the mild climate and €20.50/10; h9am-5.30pm Quadri (Picture Gallery)
the easy access the new mid-Mar–mid-Oct) was built. is hung with Old Mas-
1855 railway provided, Construction of the villa ters, including Rubens,
the European haute and gardens was thought Titian, Veronese and José
bourgeoisie flocked to out in such a way that Ribera (Spagnoletto).
buy and build grand lake- the island would have the By contrast, Isola
side villas. appearance of a vessel, Madre eschews ostenta-
The star attractions tion for a more romantic,
are the Borromean with the villa at the prow familial atmosphere.
and the gardens dripping
Islands (Isole Borromee) down 10 tiered terraces The 16th- to 18th-
and their palaces. Isola century Palazzo Madre
at the rear. Inside the
44

R R
# Locarno ‚ 98km to
]
\ # Ascona F G Gravedona # \ Colico Adda
37
\ #
Lago di
SWITZERLAND Como R
0 ¸ Legnone Parco Regionale degli
9
Á
Monte
E35
Valle Cannobina
# 0 ¸ Cassarate Rezzonico # \ (2609m) Orobie Valtellinesi
3
#
A2
SS340dir
À
8
Menaggio
8 Luino Lugano Cadenabbia SS340 #
À
Lago di
# \
# \ Varenna
8
#
SS34
#
\
# \ #
6
Tremezzo # \ # \ #
# Bellagio
# 7
À
Lenno # \
# Ghiffa 8 Pioverna Parco
\
Parco SS583 Regionale
Botanico Bergamasche
Á
9 San Grato Monte R
Laveno
Monte
# \ SP394dir Breggia Bisbino San Primo 0¸ Enna
SS583
(1325m)
8 Parco Regionale 0 ¸ R 8À (1685m) Brembo
À
A2
SS340
Campo dei
8 Varese Cernobbio \ # # \ Torno # Lecco ITALY 2 THE GRAcEFUL ITALIAN LAKES
À
SP1var
Fiori
]
SS394
# # \ Brunate Lago di
# #
] 4
] #
5
Lago di Malnate Olgiate # # Como Lago di Annone
Monate Riserva # \ Comasco Lago di Pusiano
À
# \
Naturale Solbiate # \ 8 Alserio Almenno
Brabbia SS342 San Salvatore
Parco Regionale \ #
del Pineta 0 ¸
SS342
di Apiano
0 ¸ 0 ¸ Bergamo
m K
E35
#
#
9
A8/26
0 ¸ LOMBARDY
A2
Olona
# 0¸
Legnano \ A8 0 ¸
A4
Rho #
]
0 ¸ 0 ¸
A4
F G A50 Milan 0 ¸
Ticino
1
#
^
A51
# e 0 0 10 miles 20 km
LINK
(%0323 3 05 56; www. YOUR
isoleborromee.it; adult/child TRIP
€12/6.50, incl Palazzo Bor- Grand Tour The Swiss Alps
romeo €20.50/10; h9am- 1 |
5.30pm mid-Mar–mid-Oct) From Stresa take From Verbania
includes a ‘horror’ thea- the A8 to Milan (Milano) head north-east for the
tre with a cast of devilish from where you can greatest of the great
marionettes, while commence your own outdoors: perfect peaks,
Chinese pheasants stalk Grand Tour of Italy. gorgeous glaciers,
the English gardens. verdant valleys.
5 p53
45

The Drive » Leave Stresa dendrons and camellias, the foot of the Cannobino
westwards on the Via Sempione acres of tulip flowers and valley, the medieval ham-
(SS33) skirting the edge of hothouses full of equato- let of Cannobio is located
the lake for this short, 14km rial lilies it is considered 5km from the Swiss
drive. Pass through Baveno and one of Europe’s finest border. It is a dreamy
round the western edge of the botanical gardens. Dur- place. Piazza di Vittorio
gulf through the greenery of
the Fondo Toce natural reserve. ing the last week in April, Emanuele III, lined with
When you reach the junction Settimana del Tulipano pastel-hued houses, is the
with the SS34, turn right for takes place, when tens of location of a huge Sun-
Verbania. thousands of tulips erupt day market that attracts
in magnificent multi- visitors from Switzer-
coloured bloom. land. Right in the heart
2 Verbania 5 p53 of the historic centre, in
The late-19th-century a 15th-century monas-
Villa Taranto (%0323 55 The Drive » Pick up the tery that later became
66 67; www.villataranto.it; Via SS34 again, continuing in a the home of the Pironi
Vittorio Veneto 111, Verbania northeasterly direction out of family, is the atmospheric
Verbania, through the suburbs
Pallanza; adult/reduced of Intra and Pallanza. Once Hotel Pironi (%0323
€10/5.50; h8.30am-6.30pm you’ve cleared the town the 7 06 24; www.pironihotel.
mid-Mar–Sep, 9am-4pm 20km to Cannobio are the it; Via Marconi 35; s €120, d
Oct; p) sits just outside prettiest on the tour, shadowing €150-195, tr €185-230; pW).
Verbania. In 1931, royal the lake shore the entire way Behind its thickset walls
ITALY 2 THE GRAcEFUL ITALIAN LAKES
archer and Scottish cap- with views across the water. are rooms with frescoed
tain Neil McEacharn vaults, exposed timber
bought the villa from the TRIP HIGHLIGHT beams and an assortment
Savoy family and started of tastefully decorated
to plant some 20,000 3 cannobio bedrooms.
species. With its rolling Sheltered by a high You can hire small
hillsides of purple rhodo- mountain and sitting at sailing boats (€35/55
per one/two hours) and
make an excursion to
the ruined Castelli della
Malpaga, located on two
DETOUR: rocky islets to the south
LAGO D’ORTA of Cannobio. In summer
it is a favourite picnic
Start: 1 Stresa (p44) spot.
Separated from Lake Maggiore by Monte Mottarone Alternatively, explore
(1492m) and enveloped by thick, dark-green the wild beauty of the
woodlands, Lago d’Orta would make a perfect Valle Cannobina up the
elopers’ getaway. At 13.4km long by 2.5km wide you SS631, following the
can drive around the lake in a day. The focal point is surging Torrente Can-
the captivating medieval village of Orta San Giulio, nobino stream into the
which sits across from Isola San Giulio, where you’ll heavily wooded hillsides
spy the frescoed, 12th-century Basilica di San to Malesco. Just 2.5km
Giulio (h9.30am-6pm Tue-Sun, 2-5pm Mon Apr-Sep, along the valley, in
9.30am-noon & 2-5pm Tue-Sun, 2-5pm Mon Oct-Mar). Come Sant’Anna, the torrent
during the week and you’ll have the place largely to forces its way powerfully
yourself. through a narrow gorge




46

known as the Orrido di
Sant’Anna, crossed at LAGO MAGGIORE EXPRESS
its narrowest part by a
Romanesque bridge. The Lago Maggiore Express (%091 756 04 00; www.
lagomaggioreexpress.com; adult/child 1-day tour €34/17,
The Drive » The next part of
the journey involves retracing 2-day tour €44/22) is a picturesque day trip you can do
the previous 22km drive to without the car. It includes train travel from Arona
Verbania-Intra to board the or Stresa to Domodossola, from where you get the
cross-lake ferry to Laveno. charming Centovalli train, crossing 100 valleys, to
Ferries run every 20 minutes Locarno in Switzerland and a ferry back to Stresa.
(one-way tickets cost €8 to The two-day version is perhaps better value if you
€13 for car and driver). Once in have the time.
Laveno pick up the SP394dir
and then the SP1var and SS394
for the 23km drive to Varese. rooms is the 1830 Salone II 54; h3-7.30pm Mon, 9am-
Impero (Empire Hall), 12.30pm & 3-7.30pm Tue-Sat)
with heavy chandeliers you can buy top-quality ITALY 2 THE GRAcEFUL ITALIAN LAKES
4 Varese and four canvases by scarves, ties and fabrics
Spread out to the south David Simpson (born in for a fraction of the cost
of the Campo dei Fiori 1928). you’d pay elsewhere.
hills, Varese is a prosper- After wandering the
ous provincial capital. The Drive » The 28km drive medieval alleys of the
from Varese to Como isn’t
From the 17th century terribly scenic, passing through historic centre take a
onwards, Milanese nobles a string of small towns and stroll along Passeggiata
began to build second suburbs nestled in the wooded Lino Gelpi, where you
residences here, the hills. The single-lane SS342 pass a series of water-
most sumptuous being passes through Malnate, front mansions, finally
the Palazzo Estense, Solbiate and Olgiate Comasco arriving at Villa Olmo
completed in 1771 for before reaching Como. (%031 25 23 52; Via Cantoni 1;
Francesco III d’Este, the gardens free, villa entry varies
governor of the Duchy of TRIP HIGHLIGHT by exhibition; hvilla during
Milan. Although you can- 5 como exhibitions 9am-12.30pm
not visit the palace you & 2-5pm Mon-Sat, gardens
are free to wander the Built on the wealth of 7.30am-11pm summer, to 7pm
vast Italianate gardens its silk industry, Como winter). Set grandly facing
(open 8am to dusk). is an elegant town and the lake, this Como land-
To the north of the city remains Europe’s most mark was built in 1728
sits another great villa, important producer by the Odescalchi family,
Villa Panza (%0332 28 of silk products. The related to Pope Innocent
39 60; www.fondoambiente. Museo della Seta (Silk XI, and now hosts block-
it; Piazza Litta 1; adult/re- Museum; %031 30 31 80; buster art shows. During
duced €10/5; h10am-6pm www.museosetacomo.com; Via the summer the Lido di
Tue-Sun), donated to the Castelnuovo 9; adult/reduced Villa Olmo (%031 57 08 71;
state in 1996. Part of €10/7; h10am-6pm Tue-Fri, www.lidovillaolmo.it; Via Cer-
the donation were 150 to 1pm Sat) unravels the nobbio 2; adult/reduced €8/4;
contemporary canvases town’s industrial history, h9am-7pm mid-May–Sep),
collected by Giuseppe with early dyeing and an open-air swimming
Panza di Biumo, mostly printing equipment on pool and lakeside bar, is
by post-WWII American display. At A Picci (%031 open to the public.
artists. One of the finest 26 13 69; Via Vittorio Emanuele



47

WHY THIS IS A OLAF PROTZE/CONTRIBUTOR/GETTY IMAGES ©
GREAT TRIP
PAULA HARDY,
WRITER
Despite centuries of fame as
a tourist destination, there’s a
timeless glamour to the Italian lakes,
MATS SILVAN/CONTRIBUTOR/GETTY IMAGES ©
especially Lago di Como with its
mountainous amphitheatre of snow-
capped Alps. One of the best ways to
see it is to walk the old mule tracks.
There are some easy walks with
fabulous views around Brunate. Pick
up a map showing the trails from the
Como tourist office.


Top: Villa Serbelloni, Bellagio, Lago di Como
Left: Market stalls in Cannobio, Lago Maggiore
Right: The gardens of Villa Monastero, Varenna,
Lago di Como