Lonely Planet Europe’s Best Trips (Travel Guide)

At Les Arènes (Amphi-
théâtre; www.arenes-arles.
com; Rond-Point des Arènes;
adult/child €6/free, incl Théâ-
tre Antique €9/free; h9am-
8pm Jul & Aug, to 7pm May-Jun
JEAN-PIERRE LESCOURRET ©
& Sep, shorter hours rest of
year) slaves, criminals and
wild animals (includ-
ing giraffes) met their
dramatic demise before
a jubilant 20,000-strong
crowd during Roman
gladiatorial displays.
The Théâtre Antique
(%04 90 96 93 30; bd des FRANCE 10 ATLANTIC TO MED
Lices; h9am-7pm May-Sep,
shorter hours rest of year),
which dates from the 1st
century BC, is still regu-
larly used for al fresco
concerts and plays.
54 p151
The Drive » From Arles take
the scenic N568 and A55 route
into Marseille. It’s 88km (an
hour’s drive) away.

TRIP HIGHLIGHT
8 Marseille
With its history, fusion of
cultures, souq-like mar-
kets, millennia-old port
and corniches (coastal
roads) along rocky inlets
and sun-baked beaches,
Marseille is a captivating
and exotic city.
Ships have docked for
more than 26 centuries at
the city’s birthplace, the
colourful Vieux Port (Old
Port), which remains a
thriving harbour to this
day. Guarding it are Bas
Fort St-Nicolas on the
south side and, across the
water, Fort St-Jean, found-
ed in the 13th century by

149

the Knights Hospitaller ence. It’s a mishmash of cinema’s most prestigious
of St John of Jerusa- lanes hiding artisan shops, event on a 1½-hour guid-
lem. A vertigo-inducing ateliers (workshops) and ed tour run by the tourist
footbridge links the latter terraced houses strung office (%04 91 13 89 00;
with the stunning Musée with drying washing. www.marseille-tourisme.com;
des Civilisations de The Drive » To get from 11 La Canebière; h9am-7pm
l’Europe et de la Méditer- Marseille to Cannes, take the Mon-Sat, 10am-5pm Sun).
ranée, (MuCEM; www.mucem. northbound A52 and join the
org; 7 Promenade Robert Laffont; A8 toll road just east of Aix-en- 54 p172
adult/family/child €9.50/14/ Provence. It’s 181km and takes The Drive » Weave along
free; h10am-8pm Wed-Mon just under two hours. the D6007 to Nice, taking in
Jul & Aug, 11am-7pm Wed-Mon cliffs, turquoise waters and the
Sep, Oct, May & Jun, 11am-6pm yachties’ town of Antibes. It’s
Wed-Mon Nov-Apr) the icon of 9 Cannes 31km and, on a good day, takes
modern Marseille. Its vast The eponymous film 45 minutes.
anthropological collec- festival only lasts for two
tion is housed in a bold, weeks in May, but thanks
contemporary building to regular visits from cele- a Nice
known as J4, designed by brities the buzz and glitz You don’t need to be a
Algerian-born, Marseille- are in Cannes year-round. painter or artist to appre-
educated architect Rudi The imposing Palais ciate the extraordinary
FRANCE 10 ATLANTIC TO MED
Ricciotti. des Festivals et des light in Nice. Matisse,
From the Vieux Port, Congrès (1 bd de la Croisette; Chagall et al spent years
hike up to the fantastic guided tour adult/child €4/ lapping up the city’s
history-woven quarter free) is the centre of the startling luminosity and
of Le Panier, dubbed glamour. Climb the red radiance, and for most
Marseille’s Montmartre carpet, walk down the visitors to Nice, it is
as much for its sloping auditorium, tread the this magical light that
streets as its artsy ambi- stage and learn about seduces. The city has a
number of world-class
sights, but the star at-
traction is probably the
seafront Promenade des
DETOUR: Anglais. Atmospheric,
AIX-EN-PROVENCE beautiful and photogenic,
Start: 7 Arles (p147) it’s a wonderful place to
stroll (p200) or watch the
Aix-en-Provence is to Provence what the Left Bank world go by, so make sure
is to Paris: an enclave of bourgeois-bohemian chic. you leave yourself plenty
Art, culture and architecture abound here. A stroller’s of time to soak it all in.
paradise, the highlight is the mostly pedestrian old
city, Vieil Aix. South of cours Mirabeau, Quartier 54 p151, p172
Mazarin was laid out in the 17th century, and is home
to some of Aix’s finest buildings. Central Place des
Quatre Dauphins, with its fish-spouting fountain
(1667), is particularly enchanting. Further south still
is the peaceful Parc Jourdan, where locals gather
beneath plane trees to play pétanque.
From Arles it’s a 77km (one-hour) drive down the
A54 toll road to Aix-en-Provence. To rejoin the main
route take the A51 and A7 for 32km (30 minutes) to
Marseille.


150

Eating & Sleeping


combination. A palette of maroon and cream,
La Rochelle 1 with marble flourishes here and there, bestows
a regal feel on comfortable rooms. Bathrooms
4 Hôtel St-Nicolas Boutique Hotel €€ are lavished with ecofriendly products. The
(%05 46 41 71 55; www.hotel-saint-nicolas.com; 13 breakfast buffet is largely organic. Some
rue Sardinerie et place de la Solette; d/tr €125/145; recently upgraded rooms have mod cons such
paW) This stylish hotel, tucked in a peaceful as USB ports and coffee makers.
courtyard with delightful summer terrace, has
smart comfortable rooms with ultra-modern
bathrooms – think giant rain showers, heated Arles 7
towel rails and sweet-smelling welcome products. Design Hotel €€
A handful of rooms are across the courtyard in 4 Le Cloître
an equally inviting annexe, and breakfast (€12) (%04 88 09 10 00; www.hotel-cloitre.com; FRANCE 10 ATLANTIC TO MED
is served in an indoor tropical garden. Check its 18 rue du Cloître; s €105, d €130-185; iW)
website for excellent-value deals. Proving you don’t need to spend a fortune for
originality and imagination, the 19 rooms at this
zingy hotel next to the Cloître Ste-Trophime
St-Émilion 2 combine history and modern design to winning
effect: bold colours, funky patterns and retro
5 La Terrasse Rouge French €€ furniture abound, and the rooftop terrace is a
(%05 57 24 47 05; www.laterrasserouge.com; stunning sundowner spot. The lavish breakfast
1 Château La Dominique; lunch menu €28; spread is (unusually) worth the €14 price tag.
hnoon-2.30pm & 7-11pm Jun-Sep, noon-
2.30pm & 7-11pm Fri & Sat, noon-2.30pm Sun-
Thu Oct-May) Foodies adore this spectacular Nice a
vineyard restaurant. Chefs work exclusively with
small local producers to source the seasonal 5 Le Bistrot
veg, fruit and so on used in their creative d’Antoine Modern French €€
cuisine. Oysters are fresh from Cap Ferret, (%04 93 85 29 57; 27 rue de la Préfecture; menus
caviar comes from Neuvic in the Dordogne and €25-43, mains €15-25; hnoon-2pm & 7-10pm
the wine list is, naturally, extraordinary. Tue-Sat) A quintessential French bistro, right
down to the checked tablecloths, streetside
tables and impeccable service – not to mention
Toulouse 5 the handwritten blackboard, loaded with classic
CaptionCaptionCaptionCaption
dishes like rabbit pâté, pot-cooked pork, blood
5 Le Genty Magre French €€€ sausage and duck breast. For classic French
(%05 61 21 38 60; www.legentymagre.com; food, this is a treat.
3 rue Genty Magre; mains €18-30, menu €38;
h12.30-2.30pm & 8-10pm Tue-Sat) Classic 4 Nice Garden
French cuisine is the order of the day here, but Hôtel Boutique Hotel €€
lauded chef Romain Brard has plenty of modern (%04 93 87 35 62; www.nicegardenhotel.com;
tricks up his sleeve, too. The dining room feels 11 rue du Congrès; s €75, d €90-123, tr €138;
inviting, with brick walls, burnished wood and hreception 8am-9pm; aW) Behind heavy
sultry lighting. It’s arguably the best place in the iron gates hides this gem: nine beautifully
city to try rich, traditional dishes such as confit appointed rooms – the work of the exquisite
de canard (duck confit) or cassoulet (stew). Marion – are a subtle blend of old and new and
overlook a delightful garden with a glorious
4 Hôtel Albert 1er Hotel €€ orange tree. Amazingly, all this charm and
(%05 61 21 47 49; www.hotel-albert1.com; 8 rue peacefulness is just two blocks from the
Rivals; d €65-145; aW) The Albert’s central promenade. Breakfast €9.
location and eager-to-please staff are a winning
151

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Location Caption details to go here

NICK INMAN / GETTY IMAGES ©
The Pyrenees 11








Traversing hair-raising roads, sky-top passes and snow-dusted
peaks, this trip ventures deep into the unforgettable Pyrenees.
Buckle up – you’re in for a roller coaster of a drive.

TRIP HIGHLIGHTS
7 DAYS
277 km 522 km 522KM / 324 MILES
Cauterets Tarascon-sur-Ariège
Hit the trails at this See prehistoric art in a
chic and historic Pyrenean cavern GREAT FOR…
ski resort
JG

l L BEST TIME TO GO
Oloron # Pau June to September,
Ste-Marie when the road passes
# are open.

# # Foix I ESSENTIAL
# # #
# #
# # 7 St-Girons PHOTO
6
# #
m K Standing on top of the
#
2
#
9
# #
Pic du Midi.
K BEST FOR
OUTDOORS
Vallée d’Aspe Col du Tourmalet Hiking to the Lac de
Escape the outside Marvel at the Gaube near Cauterets.
world in this mountain panorama
wonderfully rural valley from the Pic du Midi
80 km 322 km
Location Caption details to go hereerets The mountain-ringed Lac de Gaube
Caut 153

11 The Pyrenees



They might not have the altitude of the Alps, but the Pyrenees pack a mighty
mountain punch, and if you’re an outdoors-lover, you’ll be in seventh heaven
here. With quiet villages, rustic restaurants, spectacular trails and snowy
mountains galore, the Pyrenees are a wild adventure – just remember to
break in your hiking boots before you arrive.


# \


F G 0 ¸ 0 ¸ 214 km to F G # \ Mielan
8
10
A65
A64
‚
PYRÉNÉES- l L Arros
ATLANTIQUES #
# \ Pau
# 1
# \ Oloron- Pau Castelnau
Ste-Marie # \ Tarbes Magnoac # \
# \ Pontacq 0 ¸
0 ¸ Betharram # \ A64
N134
# \
10
Col du Arudy F G Adour
Marie- # \ Lannemezan
Blanque # \
# \ Escot # \ Lourdes # \
Sarrance # \ # \ Bielle Bagnères # \ # \
# \ Aste Beon de Bigorre HAUTES-
# \Bedous Laruns Eaux- Col d'Aubisque # Argelès-Gazost PYRÉNÉES Neste # \
5
#
# \ Accous # \ Bonnes (1709m) # St-Savin
4
# \ # \ 0¸ # # \ Pic du
c
# \ Cette-Eygun D918 Beaucens R Midi Col d'Aspin
Gourette
#
3
Lescun # \ # Vallée Col du (2865m) (1489m)
# \
Etsaut Pic d'Ayous Tourmalet c
(2288m) d'Ossau 0 ¸ # \
# 7
D921
# \ #
R # \ Cauterets # 0 ¸ # # \ Arreau
Gabas 6 D918 La Mongie
Parc National Luz St- # \
R des Pyrénées Sauveur
Pic du Midi R # \ Col
#
#
Vallée # d'Ossau Balaïtous Pont H St-Lary de Peyresourde
2
d'Aspe (2884m) (3146m) d'Espagne p157 Soulan (1569m)
c Col du # \ c
# \ Vignemale R # \ Gèdre Parc # \
Somport
(3298m) National des
Pyrénées
# \
# \ Canfranc Gavarnie # \ Cirque de
S P A I N Troumouse
Cirque de # \ R
Gavarnie Mt Perdido
(3355m)
# \
# \
# \
# \ # \

monarchs of Navarre Pau’s tiny old centre
1 Pau and transformed into extends for around 500m
Palm trees might seem a Renaissance château around the Château de
out of place in this moun- in the 16th century. It’s Pau, and boasts many
tainous region, but Pau home to a fine collection attractive medieval and
of Gobelins tapestries and Renaissance buildings.
(rhymes with ‘so’) has
long been famed for its Sevres porcelain.
mild climate. In the 19th
century this elegant town
was a favourite winter- LINK
ing spot for wealthy Brits YOUR
and Americans, who left TRIP
behind many grand villas
and smart promenades. a Atlantic to Med 8 Essential France
Its main sight is the From Foix, head From Foix, it’s FRANCE 11 THE PYRENEES
Château de Pau (%05 59 just over an hour four hours’ drive east to
82 38 00; www.chateau-pau. northeast to Carcassone Aix-en-Provence, where
fr; 2 rue du Château; adult/child and then east for the you can commence the
€7/free; h9.30am-12.15pm balmy Med or west grand tour of France in
& 1.30-5.45pm, gardens open for the slower-paced reverse.
longer hrs), built by the Atlantic coast. # \


# e 0 0 20 miles 40 km
0 ¸ 0 ¸
A64
A61
HAUTE-GARONNE Garonne
Gratens # \
10
Boulogne- F G # \Carbonne
# \ # \ Ariège
sur-Gesse Aurignac # \ Rieux
# \
# \ Cazères
# \
Montesquieu- Artigat
0 ¸ Salat Volvestre # \
A64
# \ Pamiers # \
# \ St-Gaudens
Montréjeau
St-Bertrand de Prat La Bastide
# \ # \
Comminges St-Lizier Lescure de Serou
# \ 0 ¸ # \
Col de Portet # \ D117
d'Aspet # \
(1069m) St-Girons #
# \ #
c 8 Foix
c Montgaillard 0¸
Col de Menté Col de # \ D117
Pic de (1349m) la Core
N20
Bacanère (1395m) / ·
(2193m) Pic de c ARIÈGE m K
# \ #
R Maubermé #
9
R (838m) # \ Ussat-
Bagnères Tarascon-
# \ R Mt Valier les-Bains
de Luchon (2838m) sur-Ariège
c Col du Portillon # \ # \
(1320m) Guzet Vicdessos
Neige
R Pic Rouge
R Pica de Bassiès
Mt Rouch D'Estates (2676m) 155
(2858m) (3143m) R
# \

Central street parking villages such as Sar- 60km. The first part
is mostly payant (charge- rance, Borcé and Etsaut. of the valley as far as
able), but there’s free Near the quiet village Laruns is broad, green
parking on place de Ver- of Bedous, it’s worth and pastoral, but as you
dun and the street lead- detouring up the narrow travel south the moun-
ing west of there (av du 18 road to Lescun, a tiny tains really start to pile
Régiment d’Infanterie). hamlet perched 5.5km up, before broadening
above the valley, overlook- out again near Gabas.
54 p161 ing the peak of Pic d’Anie Halfway between
The Drive » To reach the (2504m) and the cluster of Arudy and Laruns, you
Vallée d’Aspe from Pau, take mountains known as the can spy on some of the
the N193 to Oloron-Ste-Marie. Cirque de Lescun. Pyrenees’ last griffon vul-
The first 30km are uneventful, The valley ends 25km tures at the Falaise aux
but over the next 40km south further south near the Vautours (Cliff of the Vultures;
of Oloron the mountain scenery
unfolds in dramatic fashion, with Col du Somport (1631m), %05 59 82 65 49; www.falaise-
towering peaks stacking up on where a controversial aux-vautours.com; adult/child
either side of the road. tunnel burrows 8km un- €6/4; h10.30am-12.30pm &
der the Franco-Spanish 2-6.30pm Jul & Aug, 2-5.30pm
border. The return drive Apr-Jun & Sep). Once a com-
TRIP HIGHLIGHT
FRANCE 11 THE PYRENEES
to Pau is just over 80km. mon sight, these majestic
2 Vallée d’Aspe The Drive » To reach the birds have been deci-
The westernmost of the Vallée d’Ossau from Pau, take mated by habitat loss and
Pyrenean valleys makes a the N134 south of town, veering hunting; they’re now pro-
great day trip from Pau. south onto the D934 towards tected by law. Live CCTV
Framed by mountains Arudy/Laruns. From Pau to images are beamed from
and bisected by the Aspe Laruns, it’s about 42km. their nests to the visitors
River, it’s awash with centre in Aste-Béon.
classic Pyrenean scenery. The ski resort of
The main attraction here 3 Vallée d’Ossau Artouste-Fabrèges, 6km
is soaking up the scenery. More scenic splendour east of Gabas, is linked
Allow yourself plenty awaits in the Vallée by cable car to the Petit
of time for photo stops, d’Ossau, which tracks the Train d’Artouste (%05
especially around pretty course of its namesake 59 05 36 99; www.altiservice.
river for a spectacular com/excursion/train-artouste;
adult/child €25/21; hJun–
mid-Sep), a miniature
mountain railway built
THE TRANSHUMANCE for dam workers in the
1920s. The train is only
If you’re travelling through the Pyrenees between late open between June and
May and early June and find yourself stuck behind a September; reserve
cattle-shaped traffic jam, there’s a good chance you ahead and allow four
may have just got caught up in the Transhumance, in hours for a visit.
which shepherds move their flocks from their winter
pastures up to the high, grassy uplands. The Drive » The D918
This ancient custom has been a fixture on the between Laruns and Argelès-
Pyrenean calendar for centuries, and several valleys Gazost is one of the Pyrenees’
host festivals to mark the occasion. The spectacle most breathtaking roads,
switchbacking over the lofty
is repeated in October, when the flocks are brought Col d’Aubisque. The road feels
back down before the winter snows set in. exposed, but it’s a wonderfully


156

scenic drive. You’ll cover about des Pyrénées (%05 62 has clung on to much of
52km, but allow yourself at 97 91 07; www.parc-animalier- its fin-de-siècle charac-
least 1½ hours. Once you reach pyrenees.com; adult/child ter, with a stately spa
Argelès-Gazost, head further €18/13; h9.30am-6pm or and grand 19th-century
south for 4km along the D101 to
St-Savin. 7pm Apr-Oct) does all the residences.
hard work for you. It’s To see the scenery at its
home to a menagerie of best, drive through town
4 St-Savin endangered Pyrenean along the D920 (signed
After the hair-raising drive animals including to the ‘Pont d’Espagne’).
wolves, marmots, lynxes,
The road is known locally
over the Col d’Aubisque, giant ravens, vultures, as the Chemins des Cas-
St-Savin makes a welcome racoons, beavers and cades after the waterfalls
refuge. It’s a classic even a few brown bears that crash down the
Pyrenean village, with (the European cousin of mountainside; it’s 6.5km
cobbled lanes, quiet cafes the grizzly bear). of nonstop hairpins, so
and timbered houses set take it steady. FRANCE 11 THE PYRENEES
around a fountain- filled The Drive » Take the D921 At the top, you’ll reach
main square. south of Argelès-Gazost for 6km the giant car park at
It’s also home to to Pierrefitte-Nestalas. Here,
one of the Pyrenees’ the road forks; the southwest Pont d’Espagne (cable cars
adult/child €13/10.50). From
branch (the D920) climbs up a
most respected hotel- lush, forested valley for another here, a combination
restaurants, Le Viscos 11km to Cauterets. télécabine and télésiege
(%05 62 97 02 28; www.hotel- (adult/child €13/10.50)
leviscos.com; 1 rue Lamarque, ratchets up the moun-
St-Savin; menus €49-75; TRIP HIGHLIGHT tainside allowing access
h12.30-2.30pm Tue-Sun & 6 Cauterets to the area’s trails, in-
7.30-9.30pm daily; paW), For alpine scenery, the cluding the popular hike
run by celeb chef Jean- century-old ski resort to the sapphire-tinted
Pierre St-Martin, known of Cauterets is perhaps Lac de Gaube.
for his blend of Basque, the signature spot in the
Breton and Pyrenean fla- Pyrenees. Hemmed in by 54 p161
vours (as well as his pas- mountains and forests, it
sion for foie gras). After
dinner, retire to one of the
cosy country rooms and
watch the sun set over the
snowy mountains. DETOUR:
CIRQUE DE GAVARNIE
4 p161
The Drive » From St-Savin, Start: 6 Cauterets
travel back along the D101 For truly mind-blowing mountain scenery, it’s
to Argelès-Gazost. You’ll see well worth taking a side trip to see the Cirque de
signs to the Parc Animalier des Gavarnie, a dramatic amphitheatre of mountains
Pyrénées as you approach town. 20km south of Luz-St-Saveur. It’s a return walk of
about two hours from the village, and you’ll need to
bring sturdy footwear.
5 Argelès-Gazost There’s another spectacular circle of mountains
Spotting wildlife isn’t 6.5km to the north, the Cirque de Troumouse.
always easy in the It’s reached via a hair-raising 8km toll road (€5 per
Pyrenees, but thank- vehicle; open April to October). There are no barriers
fully the Parc Animalier and the drops are really dizzying, so drive carefully.



157

WHY THIS IS A PHILIPPE COHAT / GETTY IMAGES ©
GREAT TRIP
OLIVER BERRY,
WRITER
The craggy peaks of the Pyrenees
ESCUDERO PATRICK / GETTY IMAGES ©
are home to some of France’s
rarest wildlife and most unspoilt
landscapes, and every twist and turn
in the road seems to reveal another
knockout view – one of my personal
favourites is the amazing road over
the Col d’Aubisque, which feels
closer to flying than driving. I love
the traditional way of life here, too.
Visit during the Transhumance to be
treated to one of France’s great rural
spectacles.

Top: Col d’Aubisque
Left: Château de Pau
Right: Cauterets ski resort

The Drive » After staying
overnight in Cauterets,
backtrack to Pierrefitte-Nestalas,
and turn southeast onto the
D921 for 12km to Luz-St-Saveur.
FELIX ALAIN / GETTY IMAGES ©
The next stretch on the D918
is another mountain stunner,
climbing up through Barèges
to the breathtaking Col du
Tourmalet.
TRIP HIGHLIGHT
7 Col du Tourmalet
Even in the pantheon of
Pyrenean road passes, the FRANCE 11 THE PYRENEES
Col du Tourmalet com-
mands special respect.
At 2115m, it’s the highest
road pass in the Pyrenees,
and usually only opens
between June and Octo-
ber. It’s often used as a
punishing mountain stage
in the Tour de France, and
you’ll feel uncomfortably
akin to a motorised ant
as you crawl up towards
the pass.
From the ski resort
of La Mongie (1800m), a
cable car climbs to the
top of the soaring Pic du
Midi (www.picdumidi.com;
adult/child €36/23; h9am-
7pm Jun-Sep, 10am-5.30pm
Oct, Dec-Apr). This high-
altitude observatory
commands otherworldly
views – but it’s often
blanketed in cloud, so
make sure you check the
forecast before you go.
The Drive » The next stage
to Foix is a long one. Follow the
D918 and D935 to Bagnères-de-
Bigorre, then the D938 and D20
to Tournay, a drive of 40km. Just
before Tournay, head west onto
the A64 for 82km. Exit onto the
D117, signed to St-Girons. It’s
another 72km to Foix.

159

ROAD PASSES IN THE PYRENEES

The high passes between the Vallée d’Ossau, the Vallée d’Aspe and the Vallée de
Gaves are often closed during winter. Signs are posted along the approach roads
indicating whether they’re ouvert (open) or fermé (closed). The dates given below
are approximate, and depend on seasonal snowfall.
Col d’Aubisque (1709m, open May-Oct) The D918 links Laruns in the Vallée
d’Ossau with Argèles-Gazost in the Vallée de Gaves. An alternative that’s open year-
round is the D35 between Louvie-Juzon and Nay.
Col de Marie-Blanque (1035m, open most of year) The shortest link between the
Aspe and Ossau valleys is the D294, which corkscrews for 21km between Escot and
Bielle.
Col du Pourtalet (1795m, open most of year) The main crossing into Spain
generally stays open year-round except during exceptional snowfall.
Col du Tourmalet (2115m, open Jun-Oct) Between Barèges and La Mongie, this is
the highest road pass in the Pyrenees. If you’re travelling east to the Pic du Midi (for
example from Cauterets), the only alternative is a long detour north via Lourdes and
Bagnères-de-Bigorre.
FRANCE 11 THE PYRENEES

trades such as glass blow- provides a handy primer
8 Foix ing, tanning, thatching on the area’s ancient past.
Foix is a quiet mountain and nail making, and even It’s a mix of multimedia
town, but it’s an excellent has its own blacksmith, exhibits and hands-on
baker and cobbler.
base for exploring the outdoor displays, explor-
eastern Pyrenees. Loom- 4 p161 ing everything from pre-
ing above town is the historic carving to the art
triple-towered Château de The Drive » Spend the night in of animal-skin tents and
Foix (%05 61 05 10 10; adult/ Foix, then head for Tarascon-sur- ancient spear-throwing.
Ariège, 17km south of Foix on the
About 6.5km further
child €5.60/3.80; h10am- N20. Look out for brown signs to south, the Grotte de Niaux
6pm summer, shorter hours the Parc de la Préhistoire.
rest of year), constructed (www.sites-touristiques-ariege.
in the 10th century as a fr; adult/child €12/8) is home
stronghold for the counts TRIP HIGHLIGHT to the Pyrenees’ most pre-
of Foix. The interior is 9 Tarascon-sur- cious cave paintings. The
rather bare, but there’s a Ariège centrepiece is the Salon
small museum, and the Noir, reached after an
view from the battlements Thousands of years ago, 800m walk through the
is glorious. There’s usually the Pyrenees were home darkness and decorated
at least one daily tour in to thriving communities with bison, horses and
English in summer. of hunter-gatherers, who ibex. To help preserve the
Afterwards, head 4.5km used the area’s caves as delicate paintings, there’s
south to Les Forges de shelters and left behind no artificial light inside;
Pyrène (%05 34 09 30 60; many stunning examples you’re given a torch as you
adult/child €9/6; h10am- of prehistoric art. enter. The cave can only
6.30pm), a fascinating Near Tarascon-sur- be visited with a guide.
‘living museum’ exploring Ariège, the Parc de la From April to September
Ariège folk traditions. Préhistoire (%05 61 05 there’s usually a daily
Spread over 5 hectares, 10 10; adult/child €11/8.30; tour in English at 1.30pm.
it illustrates traditional h10am-7pm, closed Nov-Mar) Bookings advised.

160

Eating & Sleeping




Pau 1 Cauterets 6
5 Les Papilles 5 La Grande
Insolites Bistro €€ Fache Traditional French €€
(%05 59 71 43 79; www.lespapillesinsolites. (%06 08 93 76 30; 5 rue Richelieu; fondue per
blogspot.co.uk; 5 rue Alexander Taylor; lunch/ person €18-23; hnoon-2.30pm & 7-10pm)
dinner menu €22/45, mains around €23; You’re in the mountains, so really you should be
h12.15-2pm & 8-9.30pm Wed-Sat) Run by a eating artery-clogging, cheese-heavy dishes
former Parisian sommelier, this cosy bar-bistro such as tartiflette (potatoes, cheese and bacon
pitches itself between a bistro and a wine shop. baked in a casserole), raclette and fondue. This
It serves beautifully prepared, ingredient-rich family-run restaurant crammed with mountain FRANCE 11 THE PYRENEES
dishes like Galician-style octopus with potatoes, memorabilia will oblige.
fennel and olive tapenade, or beef with leeks,
tempura and lemongrass-raspberry reduction. 4 Hôtel du Lion d’Or Hotel €€
Complete the experience with the owner’s (%05 62 92 52 87; www.liondor.eu; 12 rue
choice of one of the 350-odd wines stacked Richelieu; s €76-86, d €80-162, with half-board s/d
around the shop. Gorgeously Gallic. from €119/144; W) This Heidi-esque hotel oozes
mountain character from every nook and cranny.
4 Hôtel Bristol Hotel €€ In business since 1913, it is deliciously eccentric,
(%05 59 27 72 98; www.hotelbristol-pau. with charming old rooms in polkadot pinks, sunny
com; 3 rue Gambetta; s €55-100, d €80-110, yellows and duck-egg blues, and mountain-
f €120-130; pW) A classic old French hotel themed knick-knacks dotted throughout, from
with surprisingly up-to-date rooms, all wrapped antique sleds to snowshoes. Breakfast includes
up in a fine 19th-century building. Each room homemade honey and jams, and the restaurant
is uniquely designed, with stylish decor, serves hearty Pyrenean cuisine.
bold artwork and elegant furniture; while big
windows fill the rooms with light. Ask for a
mountain-view room with balcony. Breakfast Foix 8
costs €12.
4 Hôtel Eychenne Hotel €€
(%05 61 65 00 04; www.hotel-eychenne.com;
St-Savin 4 11 rue Peyrevidal; s/d €50/60; W) In a good
location in the centre of Foix, Hôtel Eychenne
4 Hôtel des Rochers Hotel €€ has simple, carpeted rooms with wooden
(%05 62 97 09 52; www.lesrochershotel.com; 1 shutters and bathrooms of a vaguely futuristic
place du Castillou; d €60-68, tr €95-100; pW) (circa 1960s) design, with capsule-like showers.
In the idyllic village of St-Savin, 16km south of There’s an easygoing bar downstairs.
Lourdes, this handsomely landscaped hotel
makes a perfect mountain retreat. It’s run by an 4 Hôtel Restaurant Lons Hotel €€
expat English couple, John and Jane, who have (%05 34 09 28 00; www.hotel-lons-foix.com; 6
renovated the rooms in clean, contemporary place Dutilh; r €79-103) One of the better hotels
fashion – insist on one with a mountain view. in Foix is an old-fashioned affair with rambling
Half-board is available. corridors and functional but comfy rooms, some
of which look onto the river, while the others face
Foix’s shady streets. The riverside restaurant
offers good-value half-board (menus €18 to €36).





161

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Location Caption details to go here

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SYLVAIN SONNET / GETTY IMAGES ©
Riviera Crossing 12








French road trips just don’t get more glamorous than this:
cinematic views, searing sunshine, art history aplenty and the
Med around every turn.

TRIP HIGHLIGHTS
4 DAYS
110KM / 68 MILES
110 km
Èze GREAT FOR...
End with a sundowner
in a dreamy hilltop village m K BHG
Menton
#
62 km
# BEST TIME TO GO
La Grande Corniche Roquebrune-
Cruise the Côte d'Azur's # Cap- Martin Anytime, but avoid
#
9
most famous road # Monaco
# July and August’s
5
#
# heavy traffic.
#
4

Nice
#
# Delve into busy markets ESSENTIAL
3
and an atmospheric I PHOTO
old town
48 km Standing beneath
Augustus’
monumental Trophée
St-Paul de des Alpes, with
Vence
l L Juan-les-Pins Paint your own pictures Monaco and the Med
# Antibes
far below.
#
in this hilltop artists'
# hideaway
# 1
28 km
Cannes BEST FOR
Cinematic heritage K GLAMOUR
and cinematic views
to match Strolling the Croisette
0 km in Cannes and fulfilling
those film-star fantasies.
Ment 163
Location Caption details to go hereon Seaside town of peaceful gardens and belle-époque mansions

12 Riviera Crossing



Cruising the Côte d’Azur is the French road trip everyone has to do at least
one in their lifetime. From film town Cannes to down-to-earth Nice via the
corkscrew turns of the Corniches and into millionaire’s Monaco, it’s a drive
that you’ll remember forever (and hopefully not because of the dreadful
summer traffic). Filmmakers, writers, celebs and artists have all had their
hearts stolen by this glittering stretch of coastline: by the end of this trip,
you’ll understand why.
w

# \ Col de la
Berre les Alpes
Madone
Contes # \ (927m)
Boyon # \ St-Martin # \ c
ALPES- # \ du Var La Grave Peille
MARITIMES Le Broc # \ Tourette- # \ Mont Age
Levens
Carros # \ FG # \ Borghéas Peillon # \ (1110m) R
8
Coursegoules Baou de Village Parc Naturel Saint-Martin # \
# \ Jeannet # \ de Peille
# \ Greolières Carros- Régional de la Beausoleil
Loup Col de (800m) le-Neuf # \ Grande Corniche La Turbie # \
Vence
R
# \ Cipières (963m) Baou des Gattières 0¸ # \ Colomars La Trinite Col d'Èze Monaco #
# \
#
8
# _
É
c Blancs # \ N202 Mont Gros # \ (512m) É É É # \
c
#
#
9
Plateau de Calern Courmes (673m) St-Jeannet / · (375m) R # É Èze # \ m K
# \ Bramafan
Fontvieille
# \
A8
R
5
N7
Corniche
# \ La Gaude La Grande # # \ / · Èze-sur-Mer
# \ Caussols Tourrettes- # \ Vence # \ Nice # # \ Beaulieu-
# ] #
Courmettes sur-Loup Var # \ 4 sur-Mer
Gourdon # \ # \ # \ # \ St-Paul de Vence St-Isidore #I Mont R # \ St-Jean-
Le Pont La Colle p200 Boron
#
# \ 3
Le Bar- du Loup Loubière R # St-Laurent- # \ Cap Ferrat
sur-Loup # \ (337m) # \ du-Var Villefranche- Cap
sur-Mer
N98
La Colle-sur-Loup # \ / · Ferrat
Châteauneuf Villeneuve- Cagnes- Aéroport
de Grasse # \ Loubet sur-Mer # – International
# \ Roquefort- # \ #/ · Nice-Côte d'Azur
\ N7
# \ Opio les-Pins # \ Cros de Cagnes
Villeneuve-
# \ Grasse # \ Loubet-
# \ Valbonne Biot Plage Mediterranean
#
Sartoux 0¸
Mouans- D103 # \ Sophia # \ H Sea
/ · # \ Antipolis / · p167
F G
N85
A8
# \ Mougins 8
Auribeau- Golfe-
# ] Antibes
#
2
# \ Vallauris #
sur-Siagne # \ Juan # \ 2
l L # \ Le Cannet # Juan-les-Pins
# \
#
Plage de
Mandelieu- Cannes- # Cannes Golfe # Ù la Garoupe
Juan
# ] # 1
La Napoule La Bocca Cap
Palm
#
# \ H # \ Golfe de # Ù Beach d'Antibes # e 0 0 5 miles 10 km
p166 Napoule

a must-do, as is a night-
TRIP HIGHLIGHT time stroll along the 2 Antibes & Juan-
1 Cannes boulevard, illuminated by les-Pins
What glitzier opening coloured lights. A century or so ago,
Outside festival time,
could there be to this Cannes still feels irresist- Antibes and Juan-les-Pins
Côte d’Azur cruise than ibly ritzy. Private beaches were a refuge for artists,
Cannes, which is just as and grand hotels line the writers, aristocrats and
cinematic as its reputa- seafront; further west hedonistic expats looking
tion suggests. Come July lies old Cannes. Follow to escape the horrors of
during the film festival, rue St-Antoine and snake post-WWI Europe. They
the world’s stars descend your way up Le Suquet, came in their droves –
on boulevard de la Croi- Cannes’ atmospheric F Scott Fitzgerald wrote
sette (aka La Croisette) original village. Pick up several books here, and
to stroll beneath the the region’s best produce Picasso rented a minia-
palms, plug their latest at Marché Forville, a ture castle (it’s now a mu- FRANCE 12 RIvIERA CROSSING
opus and hobnob with couple of blocks back seum dedicated to him).
the media and movie from the port. First stop is the beach
moguls. Getting your Not seduced? Then resort of Juan-les-Pins.
picture snapped outside head to the Îles de It’s a long way from the
w
the Palais des Festivals is fashionable resort of
Lérins, two islands a
w
w
20-minute boat ride Fitzgerald’s day, but the
w away. Tiny and traffic- beaches are still good for
free, they’re perfect for sun-lounging (even if you
Roverino do have to pay).
Castellar # \ walks or a picnic. Boats
Ste-Agnès \ # LIGURIA # \ for the islands leave Then it’s on around
# \ Ventimiglia
\ # # \ from quai des Îles, on the peninsula of Cap
c
Gorbio Garavan # Mortola
\ # \ # \ Menton the western side of the d’Antibes, where many of
] # 7
Roquebrune # # the great and good had
\ # R É harbour.
# \ # \ #Carnolès their holiday villas: the
\
É # Roquebrune- 54 p172 Hotel Cap du Eden Roc
#
6
\
#
É
Cap Cap-Martin
\ # was one of their favourite
# \ Martin The Drive »The most scenic
# fashionable haunts.
#
8
#
_
Côte d'Azur coastal D6007. Bear right onto Round the peninsula is
#\ route to Antibes is via the
av Frères Roustan before Golfe
Juan. With luck and no tailbacks, pretty Antibes, with a
harbour full of pleasure
you should hit Juan-les-Pins in boats and an old town
30 minutes or so. ringed by medieval
LINK
YOUR
TRIP
8 Essential France a Atlantic to Med
This trip makes a Cover the whole
natural extension of our south of France by
grand tour of France's combining these coastal
unmissable sights. trips which intersect at
Cannes and Nice.
165

ramparts. Aim to arrive now start following signs to It’s now one of the
before lunchtime, when St-Paul. Riviera’s most exclusive
the atmospheric Marché locations, a haven for
Provençal will still be TRIP HIGHLIGHT artists, film stars and
in full swing, and then celebrities, not to men-
browse the nearby Musée 3 St-Paul de vence tion hordes of sightseers,
Picasso (%04 92 90 54 20; Once upon a time, hilltop many of whom are here
www.antibes-juanlespins. St-Paul de Vence was to marvel at the incred-
com/culture/musee-picasso; just another village ible art collection at the
Château Grimaldi, 4 rue des like countless others in Fondation Maeght (%04
Cordiers; adult/concession Provence. But then the 93 32 81 63; www.fondation-
€6/3; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun artists moved in: paint- maeght.com; 623 chemin des
mid-Jun–mid-Sep, 10am-noon ers such as Marc Chagall Gardettes; adult/child €15/10;
& 2-6pm Tue-Sun mid-Sep–mid- and Pablo Picasso sought h10am-7pm Jul-Sep, to 6pm
Jun) to see a few of the solitude here, painted the Oct-Jun). Created in 1964
artist’s Antibes-themed local scenery and traded by collectors Aimé and
works. canvases for room and Merguerite Maeght, it
board (this is how the boasts works by all the
54 p172 Colombe d’Or (%04 93 32 big 20th-century names –
The Drive »Brave the traffic 80 02; www.la-colombe-dor Miró sculptures, Chagall
on the D6007 and avoid signs to .com; place de Gaulle; d mosaics, Braque windows
FRANCE 12 RIvIERA CROSSING
turn onto the A8 motorway: it’s €250-430; hrestaurant and canvases by Picasso,
the D2 you want, so follow signs noon-2.30pm & 7.30-10.30pm Matisse and others.
for Villeneuve-Loubet. When you late Dec-Oct; aWs) hotel While you’re here, it’s
reach the town, cross the river. came by its stellar art
You’ll pass through a tunnel into collection). worth taking a detour
the outskirts of Cagnes-sur-Mer; northwards to Vence,
where the marvellous
Chapelle du Rosaire
(Rosary Chapel; %04 93 58
03 26; 466 av Henri Matisse;
DETOUR: adult/child €6/3; h2-5.30pm
CORNICHE DE Mon, Wed & Sat, 10-11.30am
L’ESTÉREL & 2-5.30pm Tue & Thu, closed
mid-Nov–early Dec) was
Start: 1 Cannes (p165) designed by an ailing
West of Cannes, the winding coast road known as Henri Matisse. He had a
the Corniche de l’Estérel (sometimes known as the hand in everything here,
Corniche d’Or, the Golden Road) is well worth a side from the stained-glass
trip if you can spare the time. Opened in 1903 by the windows to the altar and
Touring Club de France, this twisting coast road is candlesticks.
as much about driving pleasure as getting from A to
B; it runs for 30 unforgettable coastal kilometres all The Drive »Return the way
the way to St-Raphael. En route you’ll pass seaside you came, only this time follow
the blue signs onto the A8
villages, secluded coves (sandy, pebbled, nudist, cove- motorway to Nice. Take exit 50
like, you name it) and the rocky red hills of the Massif for Promenade des Anglais,
de l’Estérel, dotted with gnarly oaks, juniper and wild which will take you all 18km
thyme. Wherever you go, the blue Mediterranean along the Baie des Anges. The
shimmers alongside, tempting you to stop for just one views are great, but you’ll hit
more swim. It’s too much to resist. nightmare traffic at rush hour.




166

%04 97 13 42 01; www.mamac- A Thief, when Grace Kelly
TRIP HIGHLIGHT nice.org; place Yves Klein; and Cary Grant cruised
4 Nice h10am-6pm Tue-Sun). the hills in a convertible,
With its mix of real-city 54 p151, p172 enjoying sparkling banter
and searing blue Mediter-
grit, old-world opulence The Drive »Head out of the ranean views? Well you’re
and year-round sunshine, city through Riquier on the about to tackle the very
Nice is the undisputed D2564. You don’t want the same drive – so don your
capital of the Côte d’Azur. motorway – you want to hit bd shades, roll down the win-
Sure, the traffic’s hor- Bischoffsheim, which becomes dows and hit the asphalt.
rendous and the beach is bd de l’Observatoire as it climbs It’s a roller coaster of
made entirely of pebbles up to the summit of Mont Gros. a road, veering through
(not a patch of sand in Take it all in, stop for the pan- FRANCE
sight!), but that doesn’t city views, then get ready to as it heads into the hills
detract from its charms. really drive. The next 12km are above Nice. There are
thrilling, twisting past the Parc
It’s a great base, with Naturel Régional de la Grande countless picnic spots
loads of hotels and res- Corniche. Pull over and make and photo opportunities
taurants, and character use of the picnic tables if you along the way, including
in every nook and cranny. wish, or take a break for a hilly the Col d’Èze, the road’s
Start with a morning hike, then continue to La Turbie.
stroll (p200) through highest point at 512m.
hairpins and switchbacks 12 RIvIERA CROSSING
Further on you’ll pass
the huge food and TRIP HIGHLIGHT the monumental Roman
flower markets on cours landmark known as the
Saleya, then delve into 5 La Grande Trophée des Alpes (%04
the winding alleyways of Corniche
the old town, Vieux Nice, Remember that sexy scene 93 41 20 84; http://la-turbie.
monuments-nationaux.fr; 18 av
with many backstreet from Hitchcock’s To Catch Albert Ier, La Turbie; adult/child
restaurants where you
can try local speciali-
ties such as pissaladière
(onion tart topped with DETOUR:
olives and anchovies)
and socca (chickpea-flour BIOT
pancake). Stop for an ice Start: 2 Antibes & Juan-les-Pins (p165)
cream at famous Fenoc-
chio (p172) – flavours This 15th-century hilltop village was once an
include tomato, lavender, important pottery-manufacturing centre. The advent
olive and fig – then spend of metal containers brought an end to this, but Biot
the afternoon sunbathing is still active in handicraft production, especially
on the beaches along the glassmaking. At the foot of the village, the Verrerie
seafront Promenade des de Biot (%04 93 65 03 00; www.verreriebiot.com; chemin
des Combes; museum adult/child €3/1.50; h9.30am-7.30pm
Anglais before catching
an epic sunset. Mon-Sat, 10.30am-1pm & 2.30-7.30pm Sun Apr-Sep, to 6pm Oct-
Mar) produces bubbled glass by rolling molten glass
If you have the time,
the city has some great into baking soda; bubbles from the chemical reaction
are then trapped by a second layer of glass. You can
museums too – you’ll need watch skilled glass-blowers at work and browse the
at least an afternoon to adjacent art galleries and shop. There are also guided
explore all of the modern
masterpieces at the Musée tours (€6), during which you get the chance to try
your hand at a spot of glass-blowing – and learn why
d’Art Moderne et d’Art it’s probably best left to the professionals.
Contemporain (MAMAC;
167

WHY THIS IS A DOUGLAS PEARSON / GETTY IMAGES ©
GREAT TRIP
OLIVER BERRY,
WRITER
If there were a top 10 of French
road trips, this would have to figure
ROBYN MACKENZIE / SHUTTERSTOCKS ©
near the top. It takes in most of the
quintessential sights of the Côte
d’Azur, from seaside cities to hilltop
villages, and tackles the hairpin
turns and hair-raising drops of the
three clifftop roads known as the
Corniches. The views are simply
stunning – simply put, it’s one of the
world’s must-do drives.
Top: St-Paul de Vence
Left: Èze
Right: Harbour, Cannes




168

€5.50/free; h9.30am-1pm
& 2.30-6.30pm Tue-Sun mid-
May–mid-Sep, 10am-1.30pm
& 2.30-5pm rest of year), a
magnificent triumphal
arch built to commemo-
rate Augustus’ victory
over the last remaining
DOUGLAS PEARSON / GETTY IMAGES ©
Celtic-Ligurian tribes
who had resisted con-
quest. The views from
here are jaw-dropping,
stretching all the way
to Monaco and Italy
beyond. FRANCE 12 RIvIERA CROSSING
The Drive »Monte Carlo may
sparkle and beckon below, but
keep your eyes on the road; the
principality will keep for another
day. Stay on the D2564 to skirt
Monaco for another amazing
10km, then turn right into the
D52 to Roquebrune.

6 Roquebrune-Cap-
Martin
This village of two
halves feels a world away
from the glitz of nearby
Monaco: the coastline
around Cap Martin re-
mains relatively unspoilt,
as if Roquebrune had
left its clock on medieval
time. The historic half of
the town, Roquebrune
itself, sits 300m high on
a pudding-shaped lump.
It towers over the Cap,
but they are, in fact,
linked by innumerable,
very steep steps.
The village is delight-
ful, free of tack, and
there are sensational
views of the coast from
the main village square,
place des Deux Frères.
Of all Roquebrune’s steep
streets, rue Moncollet –

169

with its arcaded passages the Riviera once looked free.fr; av St-Jacques; adult/
and stairways carved like, before the high child €6.50/5; h10am-
out of rock – is the rises, casinos and prop- 12.30pm & 3.30-6.30pm Wed-
most impressive. Scurry erty developers moved in. Mon May-Aug, 10am-12.30pm
upwards to find architect It’s ripe for wandering, & 2-5pm Wed-Mon Sep-Apr),
Le Corbusier’s grave at with peaceful gardens where terraces overflow
the cemetery at the top and belle-èpoque man- with fruit trees, and the
of the village (in section sions galore, as well as beautiful, once-aban-
J, and, yes, he did design an attractive yacht-filled doned Jardin de la Serre
his own tombstone). harbour. Meander the de la Madone (%04 93 57
historic quarter all the 73 90; www.serredelamadone.
The Drive »Continue along
the D52 towards the coast, way to the Cimetière du com; 74 rte de Gorbio; adult/
following promenade du Cap- Vieux Château (montée du child €8/4; h10am-6pm Tue-
Martin all the way along the Souvenir; h7am-8pm May- Sun Apr-Oct, to 5pm Jan-Mar,
seafront to Menton. You’ll be Sep, to 6pm Oct-Apr) for the closed Nov-Dec), overgrown
there in 10 minutes, traffic best views in town. with rare plants. The
permitting. Menton’s miniature tourist office’s garden
microclimate enables website (www.jardins-
exotic plants to flourish menton.fr) has a list and
7 Menton here, many of which you opening times.
Last stop on the coast can see at the Jardin Spend your second
FRANCE 12 RIvIERA CROSSING
before Italy, the beautiful Botanique Exotique du night in town.
seaside town of Menton Val Rahmeh (%04 93 35
offers a glimpse of what 86 72; http://jardinvalrahmeh. 54 p173


PERFUME IN GRASSE
Up in the hills to the north of Nice, the town of Grasse has been synonymous with
perfumery since the 16th century, and the town is still home to around 30 makers –
several of which offer guided tours of their factories, and the chance to hone your
olfactory skills.
It can take up to 10 years to train a perfumier, but since you probably don’t have
that much time to spare, you’ll have to make do with a crash course. Renowned
maker Molinard (%04 93 36 01 62; www.molinard.com; 60 bd Victor Hugo; 30min/1hr
workshops €30/69; h9.30am-6.30pm) runs workshops ranging from 30-minute
sessions to two hours, during which you get to create your own custom perfume
(sandalwood, vanilla, hyacinth, lily of the valley, civet, hare and rose petals are
just a few of the potential notes you could include). At the end of the workshop,
you’ll receive a bottle of eau de parfum to take home. Galimard (%04 93 09 20 00;
www.galimard.com; 73 rte de Cannes; workshops from €49; h9am-12.30pm & 2-6pm) and
Fragonard’s Usine Historique (%04 93 36 44 65; www.fragonard.com; 20 bd Fragonard;
h9am-7pm Jul & Aug, 9am-12.30pm & 2-6pm Sep-Jun) offer similar workshops.
For background, it’s also worth making time to visit the Musée International de
la Parfumerie (MIP; %04 97 05 58 11; www.museesdegrasse.com; 2 bd du Jeu de Ballon; adult/
child €4/free; h10am-7pm May-Sep, 10.30am-5.30pm Oct-Apr; c) and its nearby gardens
(%04 92 98 62 69; www.museesdegrasse.com; 979 chemin des Gourettes, Mouans-Sartoux;
adult/child €4/free; h10am-7pm May-Aug, 10am-5.30pm mid-Mar–Apr & Sep–mid-Nov, closed
mid-Nov–mid-Mar), where you can see some of the many plants and flowers used in
scent-making. Needless to say, the bouquet is overpowering.


170

The Drive »Leave Menton Monaco’s royal family It’s undoubtedly delight-
on the D6007, the Moyenne (time your visit for the ful but it’s the ever-
Corniche, skirting the upper pomptastic changing of present views of the coast
perimeter of Monaco. When the guard at 11.55am). that are truly mesmeris-
you’re ready turn off into Nearby is the impressive ing. They just get more
Monaco, take your pick of the Musée Océanographique spectacular from the
car parks (they all charge the
same rate, capped at €20 per de Monaco, stocked with Jardin Exotique d’Èze
day). Good options include the all kinds of deep-sea (%04 93 41 10 30; adult/
Chemin des Pêcheurs and Stade denizens. It even has a child €6/2.50; h9am-7.30pm
Louis II for old Monaco, or the 6m-deep lagoon complete Jul-Sep, to 6.30pm Apr-May &
huge underground Casino car with circling sharks. Jun, to 5.30pm rest of year), a
park by allèes des Boulingrins Round things off surreal cactus garden at
for central Monte Carlo. with a stroll around the the top of the village, so
cliffside Jardin Exotique steep and rocky it may
and the obligatory photo have been purpose-built
8 Monaco of Monaco’s harbour, for mountain goats. It’s FRANCE 12 RIvIERA CROSSING
This pint-sized principal- bristling with over-the- also where you’ll find
ity (covering barely 200 top yachts. the old castle ruins; take
hectares) is ridiculous, time to sit, draw a deep
absurd, ostentatious The Drive »Pick up where breath and gaze, as few
and fabulous all at you left off on the Moyenne places on earth offer such
Corniche (D6007), and follow its
once. A playground of circuitous route back up into the a panorama.
the super-rich, with hills all the way to Èze. Èze gets very crowded
super-egos to match, it’s between 10am and 5pm;
the epitome of Riviera if you prefer a quiet wan-
excess – especially at the TRIP HIGHLIGHT der, plan to be here early
famous Casino de Monte 9 Èze in the morning or before
Carlo, where cards turn, This rocky little village dinner. Or even better,
roulette wheels spin and perched on an impossible treat yourself to a night
eye-watering sums are peak is the jewel in the and a slap-up supper at
won and lost. Riviera crown. The main the swish Château Eza, a
For all its glam, attraction is technically fitting finish to this most
Monaco’s not all show. the medieval village, memorable of road trips.
Up in the hilltop quarter with small higgledy-
of Le Rocher, shady piggledy stone houses 4 p173
streets surround the and winding lanes (and,
Grimaldi Palace, the yes, galleries and shops).
wedding-cake castle of

















171

Eating & Sleeping / GETTY IMAGES ©



Cannes 1 Antibes 2
5 Bobo Bistro Mediterranean € 5 La Badiane Fusion €
(%04 93 99 97 33; 21 rue du Commandant (%04 93 34 45 41; 3 traverse du 24 Août; lunch
André; pizza €12-16, mains €15-20; hnoon-3pm menus €17-18.50, mains €13-15; hlunch Mon-Fri)
& 7-11pm Mon-Sat, 7-11pm Sun) Predictably, This little side street behind Antibes’ bus station
it’s a ‘bobo’ (bourgeois bohemian) crowd that has a clutch of great lunchtime restaurants,
gathers at this achingly cool bistro in Cannes’ including this exotic Moroccan-tinged diner,
fashionable Carré d’Or (Golden Sq). Decor is which serves up yummy treats like chicken tagine,
stylishly retro, with attention-grabbing objets crispy pastillas (filled pastries) and spicy quiches.
d’art like a tableau of dozens of spindles of Shame it’s only open for lunch on weekdays.
coloured yarn. Cuisine is local, seasonal and
FRANCE 12 RIvIERA CROSSING
invariably organic: artichoke salad, tuna 4 Hôtel La Jabotte B&B €€
carpaccio with passion fruit, roasted cod with (%04 93 61 45 89; www.jabotte.com; 13 av Max
mash fait masion (homemade). Maurey; d from €120; aiW) A couple of
kilometres south of the old town on the coastal bd
4 Hôtel Le James Wyllie towards Cap d’Antibes, this pretty
Mistral Boutique Hotel €€ little hideaway makes a cosy base. Hot pinks,
(%04 93 39 91 46; www.mistral-hotel.com; 13 sunny yellows and soothing mauves dominate the
rue des Belges; s €89-109, d €99-129; aW) homey, feminine decor, and there’s a sweet patio
For super-pricey Cannes, this little 10-roomer where breakfast is served on sunny days. There’s
is quite amazing value. Rooms are small but a minimum stay of three nights in summer.
decked out in flattering red and plum tones –
Privilege rooms have quite a bit more space,
plus a fold-out sofa bed. There are sea views Nice 4
from the top floor, and the hotel is just 50m
from La Croisette. There’s no lift, though. 5 Fenocchio Ice Cream €
(%04 93 80 72 52; www.fenocchio.fr; 2 place
4 Villa Garbo Boutique Hotel €€€ Rossetti; 1/2 scoops €2.50/4; h9am-midnight
(%04 93 46 66 00; www.villagarbo-cannes.com; Feb-Oct) There’s no shortage of ice-cream sellers
62 bd d’Alsace; d from €230; aiW) For a in the old town, but this maître glacier (master
taste of Cannes’ celeb lifestyle, this indulgent ice-cream maker) has been king of the scoops
stunner is hard to beat. Rooms are more like since 1966. The array of flavours is mind-
apartments, offering copious space, plus boggling – olive, tomato, fig, beer, lavender and
kitchenettes, king-size beds, sofas and more. violet are just a few to try. Dither too long over
The style is designer chic – acid tones of puce, the 70-plus flavours and you’ll never make it to
orange and lime contrasted with blacks and the front of the queue. For a Niçois twist, ask for
greys, supplemented by quirky sculptures and tourte de blette (a sweet chard tart with raisins,
objets d’art. Unusually, rates include breakfast. pine kernels and parmesan).







172

5 Le Bistrot
d’Antoine Modern French €€ Menton 7
(%04 93 85 29 57; 27 rue de la Préfecture; Seafood €€
menus €25-43, mains €15-25; hnoon-2pm 5 Le Cirke
& 7-10pm Tue-Sat) A quintessential French (%04 89 74 20 54; www.restaurantlecirke.
bistro, right down to the checked tablecloths, com; 1 square Victoria; menus lunch €26 & €29,
streetside tables and impeccable service – not dinner €30 & €45, mains €18-35; hnoon-
to mention the handwritten blackboard, loaded 1.30pm & 7.15-9.30pm Wed-Mon) From paella to
with classic dishes like rabbit pâté, pot-cooked bouillabaisse, grilled fish to fried calamari, this
pork, blood sausage and duck breast. If you’ve smart Italian-run restaurant is the place to turn
never eaten classic French food, this is definitely to for delicious seafood. The wine list is a mix of
the place to start; and if you have, you’re in for Italian and French wines, and the service is as
a treat. sunny as Menton itself.
4 Hôtel Le Genève Hotel €€ 4 Hôtel Napoléon Boutique Hotel €€
(%04 93 56 84 79; www.hotel-le-geneve-nice. (%04 93 35 89 50; www.napoleon-menton.com; FRANCE 12 RIvIERA CROSSING
com; 1 rue Cassini; r €135-169; aW) Situated 29 porte de France; d €95-330; aiWs)
just off place Garibaldi, this renovated corner Standing tall on the seafront, the Napoléon is
hotel is bang in the middle of Nice’s lively Petit Menton’s most stylish sleeping option. Everything
Marais quartier. Bedrooms look sleek in cool from the pool, the restaurant-bar and the back
greys, crimsons and charcoals; bathrooms are garden (a heaven of freshness in summer) has
modern and well-appointed. Breakfast is served been beautifully designed. Rooms are decked
in the ground-floor cafe, brimful of vintage out in white and blue, with Cocteau drawings on
bric-a-brac and mismatched furniture. Bars and headboards. Sea-facing rooms have balconies but
cafes abound here. are a little noisier because of the traffic.
4 Hôtel Villa
Rivoli Boutique Hotel €€ Èze 9
(%04 93 88 80 25; www.villa-rivoli.com; 10 rue Luxury Hotel €€€
de Rivoli; s €96, d €116-178, f €254; aW) This 4 Château Eza
charming but strangely shaped villa dates back (%04 93 41 12 24; www.chateaueza.com; rue de
to 1890, and it’s packed with period detail – la Pise; d from €360; aW) If you’re looking for
gilded mirrors, fireplaces, cast-iron balconies a place to propose, well, there can be few more
and old-world wallpapers, as well as little memorable settings than this wonderful clifftop
conifer trees on the balconies and a sweeping hotel, perched dramatically above the glittering
marble staircase. Rooms are on the small side, blue Mediterranean. There are only 12 rooms, so
and some are showing their age. There’s a small it feels intimate, but the service is impeccable,
CaptionCaptionCaptionCaption
garden and car park beside the hotel. and the regal decor (gilded mirrors, sumptuous
fabrics, antiques) explains the sky-high price tag.

















173

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
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3
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Location Caption details to go here

#



ESPERANZA33 / GETTY IMAGES ©
Champagne
Taster 13








From musty cellars to vine-striped hillsides, this Champagne
adventure whisks you through the heart of the region to explore
the world’s favourite celebratory tipple. It’s time to quaff!

TRIP HIGHLIGHTS
3 DAYS
0 km 25 km 85KM / 53 MILES
Reims Verzenay
l
Descend into the # 1 L Climb to the top
cellars of Mumm # # # of a lighthouse for GREAT FOR…
and Taittinger # Vrigny Champagne views
HB
Rilly-la-
Montagne BEST TIME TO GO
# # #
2
# # # April to June for
Mailly-
Champagne spring sunshine
or September and
October to see the
harvest in Champagne.
Cumières # Dizy
# ESSENTIAL
# # #
65 km # I PHOTO
5
Épernay Overlooking glossy
Tick off the
prestigious names vineyards from the
along the av de Phare de Verzenay.
Champagne 85 km
m K Le Mesnil-sur-Oger K BEST FOR
# # #
# 7
View vintage
CULTURE
Champagne-making
equipment at the Sip Champagne in
village museum
the cellars of Moët &
Chandon.
Champ 175
Location Caption details to go hereagne Vineyards along the Marne River

\
#
/ ·
A26
8
125 km to F G
349 km to F G / · Tinqueux # \
9
‚
A4
Champagne Vrigny \ # Coulommes-
13 Taster # la-Montagne
\
# Jouy-lès- Reims
Pargny-
\
lès-Reims # \
‘My only regret in life is that I didn’t drink enough Sacy # \
Champagne,’ wrote the economist John Maynard Ecueil # \
Keynes, but by the end of this tour, you’ll have
drunk enough bubbly to last several lifetimes. \ # Chamery \ #
Starting and ending at the prestigious Champagne Pourcy Sermiers # \
centres of Reims and Épernay, this fizz-fuelled trip 0 ¸
\
#
includes stops at some of the world’s most famous D386
producers – with ample time for tasting en route. Poucy
#
\
Nanteuil-
la-Forêt
St- Imoges # \
0 ¸
Fleury-la- D951
# \
Rivière
Champillon
\ #
Hautvillers 4 # # \ #
# \ 0 ¸
D386
# Damery # \
\
Cumières # Dizy
producer. One-hour tours \
Marne / ·
D1
explore its enormous cel- \ #
TRIP HIGHLIGHT Vauciennes /· # \
lars, filled with 25 million D3 Magenta
1 Reims bottles of bubbly, and \ # Épernay 5 # # \ #
\ #
There’s nowhere better include tastings of several d'Epernay
Forêt
to start your Champagne vintages.
tour than the regal city of North of town,
Reims. Several big names Taittinger (%03 26 85 45 Vinay Moussy
#
\
have their caves (wine cel- 35; www.taittinger.com; 9 \ # # \ / ·
D10
lars) nearby. Mumm (%03 place St-Niçaise; tours €17-45; Chavot-Courcourt # \ Cuis
26 49 59 70; www.mumm.com; h9.30am-5.30pm, shorter Monthelon \ #
34 rue du Champ de Mars; tours hours & closed weekends #
#
6
\
incl tasting €20-45; htours Oct-Mar) provides an Morangis # \ # Mancy
9.30am-1pm & 2-6pm daily, informative overview of # Moslins \ #
\
shorter hours & closed Sun Oct- how Champagne is actu-
Mar), pronounced ‘moom’, ally made – you’ll leave Forêt de
Brugny
is the only maison in with a good understand- Bois
central Reims. Founded ing of the production D'Argensolle
in 1827, it’s the world’s process, from grape to Gionges # \
third-largest Champagne bottle. Parts of the cellars \ # \ #
Chaltrait Villers-
aux-Bois
176
# \

# e 0 0 5 miles 10 km occupy Roman stone
L quarries dug in the 4th
l
century.
Before you leave town,
# don’t forget to drop
# ] Reims
# 1
# \
by Waïda (5 place Drouet
d’Erlon; h7.30am-7.30pm
Tue-Fri, 7.30am-8pm Sat,
0 ¸ 8am-2pm & 3.30-7.30pm
D944
Sun), an old-fashioned
confectioner which sells
Reims’ famous biscuits
0 ¸ roses (pink biscuits), a
D951
/ · sweet treat traditionally
A4
nibbled with a glass of
Villers- Champagne. FRANCE 13 CHAMPAGNE TASTER
Allerand
\ # Chigny- Verzenay 54 p183
\ # les-Roses
# #
2
# \ Rilly-la- \ # \ # \ #
Montagne \ # Mailly- Verzy The Drive » The countryside
Ludes- Champagne # between Reims and Épernay is
#
# 3
\
le-Coquet carpeted with vineyards, fields
Parc Naturel Villers- # \ and back roads that are a dream
Régional de la Montagne Marmery
de Reims to drive through. From Reims,
head south along the D951 for
13km. Near Mont Chenot, turn
\ # Germaine
# \ Trepail onto the D26, signposted to
Louvois # \ Rilly and the ‘Route Touristique
CHAMPAGNE- \ #
ARDENNE du Champagne’. The next 12km
takes you through the pretty
Fontaine-
# \ sur-Ay Bouzy villages of Rilly-la-Montagne
Avenay- \ # # \ and Mailly-Champagne en route
#
\
Val-d'Or Ambonnay to Verzenay.
# \
Mutigny # \
Tours-
Mareuil- sur-Marne Conde-
# \
Ay sur-Ay # \ sur-Marne LINK
# \ \ #
Marne YOUR
TRIP
# \
Chouilly Essential France
/ · 8 Lying 150km west
D3
of Épernay, Paris marks
the beginning of our epic
journey around France’s
MARNE
# Cramant most essential sights.
#
6
# \ Avize 9 D-Day’s Beaches
/ · From Épernay head
D10
# Oger west, skirting Paris, to Caen
\
(four hours’ drive) to follow
#
m K the course of the Normandy
Le Mesnil-sur-Oger
# 7
\
#
# \ invasion of WWII.
0 ¸
D933
177

it’s where a Benedictine
TRIP HIGHLIGHT 3 Verzy monk by the name of
2 Verzenay This village is home to Dom Pierre Pérignon
is popularly believed to
Reims marks the start several small vineyards have created Champagne
of the 70km Montagne that provide an interest- in the late 16th century.
de Reims Champagne ing contrast to the big The great man’s tomb lies
Route, the prettiest (and producers. Étienne and in front of the altar of the
most prestigious) of the Anne-Laure Lefevre Église Abbatiale.
three signposted road (%03 26 97 96 99; www.cham The village itself is
routes that wind their pagne-etienne-lefevre.com; 30 well worth a stroll, with a
way through the Cham- rue de Villers; h9-11.30am jumble of lanes, timbered
pagne vineyards. Of the & 1.30-5.30pm Mon-Sat) houses and stone-walled
17 grand cru villages run group tours of their vineyards. On place de la
in Champagne, nine lie family-owned vineyards République, the tourist
on and around the and cellars – if you’re on office (%03 26 57 06 35;
Montagne, a hilly area your own, ring ahead www.tourisme-hautvillers.
whose sheltered slopes to see if you can join a com; place de la République;
and chalky soils provide pre-arranged tour. There h9.30am-1pm & 1.30-5.30pm
the perfect environment are no flashy videos or Mon-Sat, 10am-4pm Sun, short-
for viticulture (grape multimedia shows – the er hours winter) hands out
FRANCE 13 CHAMPAGNE TASTER
growing). emphasis is firmly on the free maps detailing local
Most of the area’s vine- nitty-gritty of Cham- vineyard walks; one-hour
yards are devoted to the pagne production. guided tours cost €3 (€5
pinot noir grape. You’ll For a glass of fizz high with a tasting).
pass plenty of produc- above the treetops, seek Steps away is Au 36
ers offering dégustation out the sleek Perching (www.au36.net; 36 rue Dom
(tasting) en route. It’s Bar (www.perchingbar. Pérignon; h10.30am-6pm
up to you how many eu; Forêt de Brise-Charrette; Tue-Sun, closed Christmas-
you choose to visit – but hnoon-2pm & 4-8pm Wed- early Mar), a wine boutique
whatever you do, don’t Sun mid-Apr–mid-Dec) deep with a ‘wall’ of Cham-
miss the panorama of in the forest. pagne quirkily arranged
vines seen from the top The Drive » Stay on the by aroma. There’s a
of the Phare de Verzenay D26 south of Verzy, and enjoy tasting room upstairs; a
(Verzenay Lighthouse; www. wide-open countryside views two-/three-glass session
lepharedeverzenay.com; D26; as you spin south to Ambonnay. costs €12/16.
lighthouse adult/child €3/2, Detour west onto the D19,
museum €8/4, combined signed to Bouzy, and bear right The Drive » From the centre
ticket €9/5; h10am-5pm onto the D1 along the northern of the village, take the rte de
Cumières for grand views across
Tue-Fri, to 5.30pm Sat & Sun, bank of the Marne River. When the vine-cloaked slopes. Follow
you reach the village of Dizy,
closed Jan), a lighthouse follow signs onto the D386 to the road all the way to the D1,
constructed as a publicity Hautvillers. It’s a total drive of turn left and follow signs to
gimmick in 1909. Nearby, 32km or 45 minutes. Épernay’s centre-ville, 6km to
the Jardin Panoramique the south.
demonstrates the four
authorised techniques for 4 Hautvillers TRIP HIGHLIGHT
tying grapevines to guide
wires. Next stop is the hilltop 5 Épernay
village of Hautvillers, a
The Drive » Continue south hallowed name among The prosperous town
along the D26 for 3km. Champagne aficionados: of Épernay is the self-


178

proclaimed capitale du Most of the big names frequent and fascinat-
champagne and is home are arranged along the ing one-hour tours of its
to many of the most grand av de Champagne. prestigious cellars, while
illustrious Champagne Moët & Chandon (%03 26 at nearby Mercier (%03
houses. Beneath the 51 20 20; www.moet.com; 20 26 51 22 22; www.champagne
streets are an astonish- av de Champagne; adult incl mercier.fr; 68-70 av de Cham-
ing 110km of subterra- 1/2 glasses €23/28, 10-18yr pagne; adult incl 1/2/3 glasses
nean cellars, containing €10; htours 9.30-11.30am €14/19/22 Mon-Fri, €16/21/25
an estimated 200 million & 2-4.30pm Apr–mid-Nov, Sat & Sun, 12-17yr €8; htours
bottles of vintage bubbly. 9.30-11.30am & 2-4.30pm 9.30-11.30am & 2-4.30pm,
Mon-Fri mid-Nov–Mar) offers closed mid-Dec–mid-Feb)



CHAMPAGNE KNOW-HOW FRANCE 13 CHAMPAGNE TASTER
Types of Champagne
» Blanc de Blancs Champagne made using only chardonnay grapes. Fresh and
elegant, with very small bubbles and a bouquet reminiscent of ‘yellow fruits’ such as
pear and plum.
» Blanc de Noirs A full-bodied, deep golden Champagne made solely with black
grapes (despite the colour). Often rich and refined, with great complexity and a
long finish.
» Rosé Pink Champagne (mostly served as an aperitif) with a fresh character and
summer-fruit flavours. Made by adding a small percentage of red pinot noir to white
Champagne.
» Prestige Cuvée The crème de la crème of Champagne. Usually made with grapes
from Grand Cru vineyards and priced and bottled accordingly.
» Millésimé Vintage Champagne produced from a single crop during an
exceptional year. Most Champagne is nonvintage.
Sweetness
» Brut Dry; most common style; pairs well with food.
» Extra Sec Fairly dry but sweeter than Brut; nice as an aperitif.
» Demi Sec Medium sweet; goes well with fruit and dessert.
» Doux Very sweet; a dessert Champagne.
Serving & Tasting
» Chilling Chill Champagne in a bucket of ice for 30 minutes before serving. The
ideal serving temperature is 7°C to 9°C.
» Opening Grip the bottle securely and tilt it at a 45-degree angle facing away from
you. Rotate the bottle slowly to ease out the cork – it should sigh, not pop.
» Pouring Hold the flute by the stem at an angle and let the Champagne trickle
gently into the glass – less foam, more bubbles.
» Tasting Admire the colour and bubbles. Swirl your glass to release the aroma and
inhale slowly before tasting the Champagne.



179

WHY THIS IS A ALEXEY FEDORENKO / GETTY IMAGES ©
GREAT TRIP
KERRY CHRISTIANI,
WRITER
ONZEG / GETTY IMAGES ©
You can sip Champagne anywhere,
but a road trip really slips under
the skin of these Unesco-listed
vineyards. Begin with an eye-
opening, palate-awakening tour and
tasting at grande maison cellars
in Épernay and Reims. I love the
far-reaching view from Phare de
Verzenay and touring the back
roads in search of small producers,
especially when the aroma of new
wine hangs in the air and the vines
are golden in autumn.


Top: Fortress, Champagne
Left: Glasses of Champagne
Right: Marne River with Épernay in background

tours take place aboard
a laser-guided under-
ground train.
Serious quaffers might
prefer the intimate tours
at Champagne Georges
Cartier (%03 26 32 06 22;
YVES TALENSAC / GETTY IMAGES ©
www.georgescartier.com; 9
rue Jean Chandon Moët; adult
incl 1/2 glasses €12/16, 2-glass
Grand Cru €22, 3-glass vintage
€35; htours 10.30am, noon, FRANCE

warren of cellars and pas-
sageways, hewn out of the
chalk in the 18th century,
is incredibly atmospheric.
Look out for the fasci-
nating WWII graffiti.
Tours are followed by a
tasting of the maison’s
2.30pm, 4pm Tue-Sun), whose 13 CHAMPAGNE TASTER
Champagnes.
Finish with a climb up
the 237-step tower at De
Castellane (%03 26 51 19
11; www.castellane.com; 57
rue de Verdun; adult incl 1 glass
€14, under 12yr free; htours
10am-11pm & 2-5pm, closed
Christmas–mid-Mar), which
offers knockout views
over the town’s rooftops
and vine-clad hills.
54 p183
The Drive » Head south of
town along av Maréchal Foch
or av du 8 Mai 1945, following
‘Autres Directions’ signs across
the roundabouts until you see
signs for Cramant. The village is
10km southeast of Épernay via
the D10.


6 Cramant
You’ll find it hard to
miss this quaint vil-
lage, as the northern
entrance is heralded


181

THE SCIENCE OF CHAMPAGNE
Champagne is made from the red pinot noir (38%), the black pinot meunier (35%)
or the white chardonnay (27%) grape. Each vine is vigorously pruned and trained to
produce a small quantity of high-quality grapes. Indeed, to maintain exclusivity (and
price), the designated areas where grapes used for Champagne can be grown and
the amount of wine produced each year are limited.
Making Champagne according to the méthode champenoise (traditional method)
is a complex procedure. There are two fermentation processes, the first in casks and
the second after the wine has been bottled and had sugar and yeast added. Bottles
are then aged in cellars for two to five years, depending on the cuvée (vintage).
For two months in early spring the bottles are aged in cellars kept at 12°C and
the wine turns effervescent. The sediment that forms in the bottle is removed by
remuage, a painstakingly slow process in which each bottle, stored horizontally, is
rotated slightly every day for weeks until the sludge works its way to the cork. Next
comes dégorgement: the neck of the bottle is frozen, creating a blob of solidified
Champagne and sediment, which is then removed.


by a two-storey-high press dating to 1630.
FRANCE 13 CHAMPAGNE TASTER
Champagne bottle. From TRIP HIGHLIGHT Reservations can be
the ridge above the vil- 7 Le Mesnil-sur- made by phone or online;
lage, views stretch out in Oger ask about the availability
all directions across the of English tours when
Champagne countryside, Finish with a visit to the you book.
taking in a patchwork of excellent Musée de la Round off your trip
fields, farmhouses and Vigne et du Vin (%03 26 with lunch at La Gare
rows upon rows of end- 57 50 15; www.champagne- (%03 26 51 59 55; www.
less vines. Pack a picnic launois.fr; 2 av Eugène Guil- lagarelemesnil.com; 3 place
and your own bottle of laume, cnr D10; adult incl 3 de la Gare; menus €18-26;
bubbly for the perfect flutes €12; htours 10am Mon- hnoon-1.30pm Mon-Wed,
Champagne country Fri, 10.30am Sat & Sun), where noon-1.30pm & 7-9pm Thu-Sat;
lunch. a local wine-growing c), which prides itself on
family has assembled a serving bistro-style grub
The Drive » Continue collection of century-old prepared with seasonal
southeast along the D10 for Champagne-making
7km, and follow signs to Le- equipment. Among the produce, simple as pork
Mesnil-sur-Oger. tenderloin with cider and
highlights is a massive potatoes. There’s a €9
16-tonne oak-beam grape menu for les petits.















182

Eating & Sleeping




Reims 1 Épernay 5
5 Brasserie 5 La Cave à
Le Boulingrin Brasserie €€ Champagne Regional Cuisine €€
(%03 26 40 96 22; www.boulingrin.fr; 29-31 (%03 26 55 50 70; www.la-cave-a-champagne.
rue de Mars; menus €20-29; hnoon-2.30pm & com; 16 rue Gambetta; menus €20-38; hnoon-
7-10.30pm Mon-Sat) A genuine, old-time brasserie 2pm & 7-10pm Thu-Mon; c) ‘The Champagne
– the decor and zinc bar date back to 1925 – Cellar’ is well regarded by locals for its
whose ambience and cuisine make it an enduring champenoise cuisine (snail-and-pig’s-trotter
favourite. From September to June, the culinary casserole, fillet of beef in pinot noir), served
focus is on fruits de mer (seafood) such as Breton in a warm, traditional, bourgeois atmosphere.
oysters. There’s always a €9.50 lunch special. You can sample four different Champagnes FRANCE 13 CHAMPAGNE TASTER
for €28.
5 l’Assiette
Champenoise Gastronomy €€€ 5 La Grillade
(%03 26 84 64 64; www.assiettechampenoise. Gourmande French €€
com; 40 av Paul-Vaillant-Couturier, Tinqueux; (%03 26 55 44 22; www.lagrilladegourmande.
menus €95-255; hnoon-2pm & 7.30-10pm com; 16 rue de Reims; menus €19-59; hnoon-
Thu-Mon, 7.30-10pm Wed) Heralded far and 2pm & 7.30-10pm Tue-Sat) This chic, red-walled
wide as one of Champagne’s finest tables and bistro is an inviting spot to try chargrilled meats
crowned with the holy grail of three Michelin and dishes rich in texture and flavour, such
stars, L’Assiette Champenoise is headed up by as crayfish pan-fried in Champagne and lamb
chef Arnaud Lallemen. Listed by ingredients, his cooked in rosemary and honey until meltingly
intricate, creative dishes rely on outstanding tender. Diners spill out onto the covered terrace
produce and play up integral flavours – be it in the warm months.
Breton lobster, or milk-fed lamb with preserved
vegetables. One for special occasions. 4 La Villa
Eugène Boutique Hotel €€€
4 Les Telliers B&B €€ (%03 26 32 44 76; www.villa-eugene.com; 84
(%09 53 79 80 74; http://telliers.fr; 18 rue av de Champagne; s €160-177, d €216-343, ste
des Telliers; s €67-84, d €79-120, tr €116-141, q €380-398; paWs) Sitting handsomely
€132-162; pW) Enticingly positioned down a astride the av de Champagne in its own grounds
quiet alley near the cathedral, this bijou B&B with an outdoor pool, La Villa Eugène is a class
extends one of Reims’ warmest bienvenues. act. It’s lodged in a beautiful 19th-century town
The high-ceilinged rooms are big on art-deco mansion that once belonged to the Mercier
character, and handsomely decorated with family. The roomy doubles exude understated
ornamental fireplaces, polished oak floors elegance, with soft, muted hues and the odd
and the odd antique. Breakfast costs an extra antique. Splash out more for a private terrace or
€9 and is a generous spread of pastries, fruit, four-poster bed.
fresh-pressed juice and coffee.












183

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Location Caption details to go here

Châteaux of
the Loire 14

JULIAN ELLIOTT / ROBERTHARDING / GETTY IMAGES ©





For centuries, France’s longest river has been a backdrop for royal
intrigue and extravagant castles. This trip weaves nine of the
Loire Valley’s most spectacular and sublimely beautiful châteaux.

TRIP HIGHLIGHTS
5 DAYS
189KM / 118 MILES
189 km
Chambord GREAT FOR…
France's château
superstar, a royal hunting
lodge on steroids GB
120 km
Amboise BEST TIME TO GO
Charles VIII's Loire-side May and June for
birthplace and Da m K good cycling weather;
Vinci's last home Blois #
# # #
9
# July for gardens and
special events.
# # #
# ESSENTIAL
6
# Villandry I PHOTO
# # #
#
5
# Château de Chenon­
4
# # #
ceau’s graceful arches
l L River.
reflected in the Cher
#
Chinon
Chenonceaux BEST TWO
Azay-le-Rideau Wander a fairy-tale K DAYS
A Renaissance landscape of reflected
jewel on a lovely arches and riverside The stretch between
island gardens Chenonceau and
52 km 107 km Chambord takes in the
true classics.
Chenonceaux Château de Chenonceau
Location Caption details to go here 185

Châteaux of the
14 Loire



From warring medieval warlords to the kings and queens of Renaissance
France, a parade of powerful men and women have left their mark on the
Loire Valley. The result is France’s most magnificent collection of castles.
This itinerary visits nine of the Loire’s most iconic châteaux, ranging from
austere medieval fortresses to ostentatious royal pleasure palaces. Midway
through, a side trip leads off the beaten track to four lesser-known châteaux.





Le Lude # \
F G TOURAINE
8
/ · # \
A28
# \ Château-
# \ Beaumont- Renault
# \
Châteaux- # \ la-Ronce
Noyant la-Vallière Neuillé-
# \ Pont-Pierre / ·
A10
0 ¸
D959
PAYS DE Reugny # \
LA LOIRE Poce-sur-
Cisse
Nazelles- # \
Vernantes Rochecorbon Vouvray Négron # \
# \ #
6
# \ # \ # \ Amboise #
# \ Gizeux
# \ Tours # ]
# \ CENTRE / ·
D81
Villandry Montlouis-
sur-Loire
# \ #
Langeais # # \ Savonnières
3
# \ # / ·
# D7 Montbazon Truyes Bleré # \
2
# \
#
Bourgueil # \ Vallères H / ·
A85
# \ Rigny- / · / · Esvres
D39
/ · # \ Île St- Ussé # \ Azay-le- D16 p189 Monts # \ # \ #\ # \ / ·
D45
A85
Martin
# \ / · # V Rideau# / · Artannes / · Veigne # \ # \
# \
#
4
# \
D17
D7
# \ D84
# \
Château d'Ussé
# \
Montsoreau Indre # \ Huismes 0 ¸ Perre Saché Sablonnière Cormery # \ Courçay # \
# \ D751
# \Candes-St-Martin # \ Reignac- # \
/ · Parc Naturel Régional F G INDRE-
8
D16
sur-Indre
Loire Anjou ET-LOIRE 0 ¸
Touraine
Lerne l L / · D943 # \ Auger
#
A10
# 1
# \ Chinon
Isle
# \ # \ Vienne
Seuilly Loches
Forêt de Sainte- # \
Chinon
POITOU- # \ Maure-de- I ndre
CHARENTES F G Touraine
191 km to 10 ‚

down in the medieval (%02 47 96 72 60; www.
1 Chinon part of town (along rue chateau-de-langeais.com;
Tucked between the Voltaire), several fine adult/child €9/5; h9.30am-
medieval Forteresse Roy- buildings dating from the 6.30pm Apr–mid-Nov, 10am-
5pm mid-Nov–Mar) – built
15th to 17th centuries.
ale de Chinon (%02 47 93 in the 1460s – is superbly
13 45; www.forteressechinon. 4 p193
fr; adult/child €8.50/6.50; preserved inside and out,
looking much as it did at
h9.30am-7pm May-Aug, to The Drive » Follow the D16
5pm or 6pm Sep-Apr) – a north of Chinon for 10km, then the tail end of the Middle
head 15km east on the D7 past
magnificent hilltop castle the fairy-tale Château d’Ussé Ages, with crenellated
ramparts and massive
– and the Vienne River, (the inspiration for the fairy tale
Chinon is forever etched Sleeping Beauty) to Lignières, towers dominating the
surrounding village.
in France’s collective where you catch the D57 3km
memory as the venue of north into Langeais. Original 15th-century fur-
Joan of Arc’s first meet- niture and Flemish tap-
estries fill its flagstoned
ing with Charles VII, FRANCE 14 CHâTEAux OF THE LOIRE
future king of France, in 2 Langeais chambers. In one room,
a life-size wax-figure
1429. Highlights include The most medieval of
superb panoramas from the Loire châteaux, the tableau portrays the mar-
the castle’s ramparts and, Château de Langeais riage of Charles VIII and
Anne of Brittany, held
here on 6 December 1491,
which brought about the
historic union of France
and Brittany.
# e 0 0 # \ m K 10 miles 20 km Langeais presents two
/ · Loire # faces to the world. From
the town you see a forti-
A10
# \ Chambord
9
#
F G Blois # \ 0¸ Domaine fied castle, nearly window-
8
# ] #
Forêt # 7 D112 National de less, with machicolated
de Blois Huisseau- Chambord
sur-Cosson
Russy 0¸
# \ Bracieux
0 ¸ Forêt de D765 0 ¸ # \ Tour-en-
D102
Onzain D952 # Sologne LINK
# \ #\ #
8
# \ # \ Cande-sur-
0 ¸ # \ Beuvron Cheverny YOUR
D952
0 ¸ Chaumont- LOIR- TRIP
D952
sur-Loire
ET-CHER Essential France
# \ Contres 8
Pontlevoy From Chambord
# \
either head north for
Versailles and Paris, or
Montrichard
0 ¸ # \ south for a longer trip taking
# \
# \ #
# D176 # \ Monthou-
5
Chenonceaux sur-Cher / · in wine, the Alps and the
A85
Sauldre Med.
Luzille C her # \ St-Aignan
# \ a Atlantic to Med
# \
Montpoupon Head south­east to
H
# \ # 0 ¸ La Rochelle (a little over
D675
p189 200km) to begin a leisurely
meander from coast to
coast.
# \ Montrésor # \ Valençay
# \ # \
Nouans-les-
Fontaines
187
I ndre

walls rising forbiddingly Labyrinthe (Maze) and Claude. The interior decor
from the drawbridge. the Jardin d’Ornement is mostly 19th century;
But the sections facing (Ornamental Garden), the Salon de Biencourt
the courtyard have large which depicts various was given historically
windows, ornate dormers kinds of love (fickle, coherent furnishings and
and decorative stonework passionate, tender and comprehensively restored
designed for more refined tragic). But the highlight in 2016. The lovely
living. is the 16th-century-style English-style gardens
Behind the château is Jardin des Simples were restored and partly
a ruined stone keep con- (Kitchen Garden), where replanted in 2015.
structed in 994 by warlord cabbages, leeks and car- The Drive » Follow the D84
Foulques Nerra, France’s rots are laid out to create east 6km through the tranquil
first great château builder. nine geometrical, colour- Indre valley, then cross the
It is the oldest such struc- coordinated squares. river south into Saché, home
ture in France. For bird’s-eye views to an attractive château and
across the gardens and Balzac museum. From Saché
5 p193 the nearby Loire and continue 26km east on the D17,
The Drive » Backtrack south Cher Rivers, climb to 11km northeast on the D45 and
9km east on the D976. Cross
across the Loire River on the D57, the top of the donjon north over the Cher River and
then follow the riverbank east (keep), the only medieval follow the D40 east 1.5km to
10km on the D16 to Villandry. remnant in this other- Chenonceaux village and the
wise Renaissance-style Château de Chenonceau.
château.
FRANCE 14 CHâTEAux OF THE LOIRE
3 Villandry
The six glorious land- The Drive » Go southwest 4km TRIP HIGHLIGHT
on the D7, then turn south 7km on
scaped gardens at the the D39 into Azay-le-Rideau. 5 Chenonceaux
Château de Villandry Spanning the languid
(%02 47 50 02 09; www. Cher River atop a su-
chateauvillandry.com; 3 rue TRIP HIGHLIGHT premely graceful arched
Principale; chateau & gardens 4 Azay-le-Rideau bridge, the Château de
adult/child €10.50/6.50, Romantic, moat-ringed Chenonceau (%02 47 23
gardens only €6.50/4.50, audio- Azay-le-Rideau (%02 47 90 07; www.chenonceau.com;
guides €4; h9am-btwn 5pm & 45 42 04; www.azay-le-rideau. adult/child €13/10, with audio-
7pm year-round, château interior fr; adult/child €8.50/free, guide €17.50/14; h9am-7pm
closed mid-Nov–mid-Dec & early audioguide €4.50; h9.30am- or later Apr-Sep, to 5pm or 6pm
Jan-early Feb) are among 6pm Apr-Sep, to 7pm Jul & Aug, Oct-Mar) is one of France’s
the finest in France, with 10am-5.15pm Oct-Mar) is one most elegant châteaux.
over 6 hectares of cascad- of France’s absolute gems, It’s hard not to be moved
ing flowers, ornamental wonderfully adorned with and exhilarated by the
vines, manicured lime elegant turrets, delicate glorious setting, the for-
trees, razor-sharp box stonework and steep slate mal gardens, the magic
hedges and tinkling foun- roofs, and surrounded by of the architecture and
tains. Try to visit when a shady, landscaped park. the château’s fascinating
the gardens are bloom- Built in the 1500s, the history. The interior is
ing, between April and château’s most famous decorated with rare fur-
October; midsummer is feature is its Italian-style nishings and a fabulous
most spectacular. loggia staircase overlook- art collection.
Wandering the pebbled ing the central courtyard, This extraordinary
walkways, you’ll see the decorated with the royal complex is largely the
classical Jardin d’Eau salamanders and ermines work of several remark-
(Water Garden), the of François I and Queen able women (hence its


188

nickname, Le Château des completed the château’s Grande Gallerie over the
Dames). The distinctive construction and added Cher. From 1940 to 1942 it
arches and the eastern the yew-tree maze and served as an escape route
formal garden were added the western rose garden. for refugees fleeing from
by Diane de Poitiers, Chenonceau had an 18th- German-occupied France
mistress of King Henri II. century heyday under (north of the Cher) to the
Following Henri’s death, the aristocratic Madame Vichy-controlled south.
Catherine de Médicis, the Dupin, who made it a cen- The Drive » Follow the D81
king’s scheming widow, tre of fashionable society; north 13km into Amboise; 2km
forced Diane (her second guests included Voltaire south of town, you’ll pass the
cousin) to exchange and Rousseau. Mini­Châteaux theme park,
Chenonceau for the rather The château’s pièce de whose intricate scale models
less grand Château de résistance is the 60m-long, of 44 Loire Valley châteaux are
Chaumont. Catherine chequerboard-floored great fun for kids!




DETOUR: FRANCE 14 CHâTEAux OF THE LOIRE
SOUTH OF THE LOIRE RIVER
Start: 4 Azay-le-Rideau
Escape the crowds by detouring to four less­visited châteaux between Azay­le­
Rideau and Chenonceaux.
First stop: Loches, where Joan of Arc, fresh from her victory at Orléans in 1429,
famously persuaded Charles VII to march to Reims and claim the French crown. The
undisputed highlight here is the Cité Royale (%02 47 59 01 32; www.chateau-loches.
fr; h24hr), a vast citadel that spans 500 years of French château architecture in a
single site, from Foulques Nerra’s austere 10th­century keep to the Flamboyant
Gothic and Renaissance styles of the Logis Royal. To get here from Azay­le­Rideau,
head 55km east and then southeast along the D751, A85 and D943.
Next comes the quirky Château de Montrésor (%02 47 92 60 04; www.
chateaudemontresor.fr; Montrésor; adult/child €8/4; h10am-7pm Apr–mid-Nov, 10am-6pm Sat
& Sun mid-Nov–Mar), 19km east of Loches on the D760, still furnished much as it was
over a century ago, when it belonged to Polish-born count, financier and railroad
magnate Xavier Branicki. The eclectic decor includes a Cuban mahogany spiral
staircase, a piano once played by Chopin and a treasury room filled with Turkish
hookahs, plus other spoils from the 17th­century Battle of Vienna.
Next, head 20km north on the D10 and D764 to the Château de Montpoupon
(%02 47 94 21 15; www.chateau-loire-montpoupon.com; adult/child €9/5; h10am-7pm Apr-Sep,
shorter hours winter), idyllically situated in rolling countryside. Opposite the castle, grab
lunch at the wonderful Auberge de Montpoupon (%02 47 59 01 18; www.chateau-loire-
montpoupon.com; Céré-la-Ronde; mains €11.50-18.50; hlunch Tue-Sun, dinner Tue-Sat Apr-Oct).
Continue 12km north on the D764 to Château de Montrichard, another
ruined 11th­century fortress constructed by Foulques Nerra. After visiting the
château, picnic in the park by the Cher River or taste sparkling wines at Caves
Monmousseau (%02 54 32 35 15; www.monmousseau.com; 71 route de Vierzon, Montrichard;
h10am-12.30pm & 1.30-6pm Apr-Oct, 10am-noon & 2-5pm Mon-Sat Nov-Mar).
From Montrichard, head 10km west on the D176 and D40 to rejoin the main route
at Chenonceaux.



189

WHY THIS IS A IBREAKSTOCK / SHUTTERSTOCK ©
GREAT TRIP
DANIEL ROBINSON,
WRITER
Travel doesn’t get more
quintessentially French – or
VALERY ROKHIN / SHUTTERSTOCK ©
splendidly pampering – than this
tour of the most famous Loire Valley
châteaux, which brings together
so many of the things I love most
about France: supremely refined
architecture, richly dramatic history,
superb cuisine and delectable wines.
My family especially enjoys the
forbidding medieval fortresses of
Langeais and Loches, which conjure
up a long-lost world of knights,
counts and court intrigue.
Top: Le Close Lucé
Left: Chapelle St-Hubert
Right: Château Royal d’Amboise

TRIP HIGHLIGHT
6 Amboise
Perched on a rocky es-
carpment above town, the
Château Royal d’Amboise
(%02 47 57 00 98; www.cha
DANITA DELIMONT / GETTY IMAGES ©
teau-amboise.com; place Michel
Debré; adult/child €11.20/7.50,
incl audioguide €15.20/10.50;
h9am-6pm or 7.30pm
Mar–mid-Nov, 9am-12.30pm & FRANCE
favoured retreat for all of
France’s Valois and Bour-
bon kings. The ramparts
afford thrilling views of
the town and river, and
you can visit the fur-
nished Logis (Lodge) and
the Flamboyant Gothic
Chapelle St-Hubert
2-5.15pm mid-Nov–Feb) was a 14 CHâTEAux OF THE LOIRE
(1493), where Leonardo
da Vinci’s presumed re-
mains have been buried
since 1863.
Amboise’s other main
sight is Le Clos Lucé (%02
47 57 00 73; www.vinci-closluce.
com; 2 rue du Clos Lucé; adult/
child €15/10.50; h9am-7pm
or 8pm Feb-Oct, 9am or 10am-
5pm or 6pm Nov-Jan; c),
the grand manor house
where Leonardo da Vinci
(1452–1519) took up resi-
dence in 1516 and spent
the final years of his life at
the invitation of François
I. Already 64 by the time
he arrived, Da Vinci
spent his time sketching,
tinkering and dreaming
up ingenious contraptions.
Fascinating models of his
many inventions are on
display inside the home
and around its lovely
7-hectare gardens.
54 p193


191

The Drive » Follow D952 5 p193 Haddock’s ancestral
northeast along the Loire’s The Drive » Cross the Loire home, Marlinspike Hall.
northern bank, enjoying 35km of and head 16km southeast into
beautiful river views en route to 4 p193
Blois. The town of Chaumont-sur- Cheverny via the D765 and D102. The Drive » Take the D102
Loire makes a pleasant stop for its 10km northeast into Bracieux,
imposing château and gardens. then turn north on the D112
8 Cheverny for the final 8km run through
Perhaps the Loire’s most forested Domaine National de
7 Blois elegantly proportioned Chambord, the largest walled
Seven French kings lived château, Cheverny (www. park in Europe. Catch your first
in Château Royal de Blois chateau-cheverny.fr; av du Châ- dramatic glimpse of France’s
most famous château on the
(www.chateaudeblois.fr; place teau; château & gardens adult/ right as you arrive in Chambord.
du Château; adult/child €10/5, child €10.50/7.50; h9.15am-
audioguide €4/3; h9am-6pm 7pm Apr-Sep, 10am-5.30pm
or 7pm Apr-Oct, 9am-noon Oct-Mar) represents the TRIP HIGHLIGHT
& 1.30-5.30pm Nov-Mar), zenith of French classical 9 Chambord
whose four grand wings architecture: the perfect A crowning achievement
were built during four blend of symmetry, of French Renaissance
distinct periods in French geometry and aesthetic architecture, Château de
architecture: Gothic (13th order. Inside are some of Chambord (www.chambord.
century), Flamboyant the most sumptuous and org; adult/child €11/9, parking
Gothic (1498–1501), early elegantly furnished rooms €4-6; h9am-5pm or 6pm;
FRANCE 14 CHâTEAux OF THE LOIRE
Renaissance (1515–20) anywhere in the Loire Val- c) – with 440 rooms,
and classical (1630s). You ley. Highlights include the 365 fireplaces and 84
can easily spend half a formal Dining Room, with staircases – is by far the
day immersing yourself panels depicting the story largest, grandest and most
in the château’s dramatic of Don Quixote; the King’s visited château in the
and bloody history and ex- Bedchamber, with ceiling Loire Valley. Begun in 1519
traordinary architecture. murals and tapestries by François I (r 1515–47)
In the Renaissance illustrating stories from as a weekend hunting
wing, the most remarkable Greek mythology; and a lodge, it quickly grew into
feature is the spiral log- children’s playroom com- one of the most ambitious
gia staircase, decorated plete with toys from the and expensive architectur-
with fierce salamanders time of Napoléon III. al projects ever attempted
and curly Fs, heraldic Cheverny’s kennels by a French monarch.
symbols of François I. The house pedigreed hunting Rising through the
King’s Bedchamber was dogs; feeding time, known centre of the structure, the
the setting for one of the as Soupe des Chiens, world-famous double-
bloodiest episodes in the takes place most days helix staircase – reputedly
château’s history. In 1588 at 11.30am. Behind the designed by Leonardo
Henri III had his arch- château, the 18th-century da Vinci – ascends to the
rival, Duke Henri I de Orangerie, which shel- great lantern tower and
Guise, murdered by royal tered priceless artworks, rooftop, where you can
bodyguards (the king is including the Mona Lisa, marvel at a skyline of
said to have hidden be- during WWII, is now a cupolas, domes, turrets,
hind a tapestry while the warm-season tearoom. chimneys and lightning
deed was done). Dramatic Tintin fans may recog- rods and gaze out across
and graphic oil paintings nise the château’s façade the vast grounds.
illustrate these events next as the model for Captain
door in the Council Room.



192

Eating & Sleeping


entrées, two mains and two desserts. It’s small,
Chinon 1 so reserve ahead.
4 Hôtel de France Hotel €€ 4 Le Vieux Manoir B&B €€
(%02 47 93 33 91; www.bestwestern- (%02 47 30 41 27; www.le-vieux-manoir.com; 13
hoteldefrance-chinon.com; 47 place du Général rue Rabelais; d incl breakfast €150-220, f €330,
de Gaulle, aka place de la Fontaine; d €99-139, cottages €260-310; hlate Mar-1 Nov; paW)
apt €175; aW) Run impeccably by the same Set in a lovely walled garden, this restored
couple since 1979, this Best Western–affiliated mansion has oodles of old-time charm. The
hotel, right in the centre of town, has 30 rooms six rooms and two cottages, decorated with
arrayed around an inner courtyard. Tastefully antiques, get lots of natural light, and owners
decorated in a contemporary style, many have Gloria and Bob (expat Americans who once ran
views of the château – as does the magnificent, an award-winning Boston B&B) are generous
flowery terrace on the roof. Offers enclosed with their knowledge of the area. FRANCE 14 CHâTEAux OF THE LOIRE
bicycle parking. No lift.
Blois 7
Langeais 2 5 L’Orangerie
5 Au Coin des Halles Bistro €€ du Château Gastronomy €€€
(%02 47 96 37 25; www.aucoindeshalles.com; 9 (%02 54 78 05 36; www.orangerie-du-chateau.
rue Gambetta; lunch menus €16.50, other menus fr; 1 av Dr Jean Laigret; menus €38-84;
€26-55; h12.15-2pm & 7.15-9pm Fri-Tue) Half hnoon-1.45pm & 7-9.15pm Tue-Sat; p) This
a block from the entrance to the château, this Michelin-starred restaurant serves cuisine
elegant eatery is mi-bistrot, mi-gastro (half- gastronomique inventive inspired by both French
bistro, half-gastronomic restaurant), serving tradition and culinary ideas from faraway lands.
delicious cuisine du marché (cuisine based on The wine list comes on a tablet computer. For
what’s available fresh in the markets) grown and dessert try the speciality, soufflé.
raised by local producers.
Cheverny 8
Amboise 6
4 La Levraudière B&B €
5 La Fourchette French €€ (%02 54 79 81 99; www.lalevraudiere.fr; 1
CaptionCaptionCaptionCaption
(%06 11 78 16 98; 9 rue Malebranche; lunch/ chemin de la Levraudière; d incl breakfast €80,
dinner menus €17/30; hnoon-1.30pm Tue-Sat, 5-person ste €150; W) In a peaceful farmhouse
7-8.30pm Fri & Sat, plus Tue & Wed evenings from 1892, amid 3.5 hectares of grassland, La
summer) Hidden away in a back alley off rue Levraudière’s four rooms are comfortable and
Nationale, this is Amboise’s favourite address homey and come with king-size beds. Sonia
for family-style French cooking – chef Christine Maurice, the friendly owner, speaks English and
will make you feel as though you’ve been invited is happy to supply local cycling maps. Situated
to her house for lunch. The menu has just two 2.5km south of the Château de Cheverny.










193

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
NEED TO Climate

KNOW



CURRENCY Brittany & Normandy # # Paris
GO May & Jun
GO Apr–Sep
Euro (€)
LANGUAGE
French

VISAS
Generally not required for # French Alps
stays of up to 90 days (or GO late Dec–early Apr (skiing)
at all for EU nationals); or Jun & Jul (hiking)
some nationalities need a French Riviera
Schengen visa. GO Apr–Jun, Sep & Oct #
Warm to hot summers, mild winters Corsica #
FUEL Warm to hot summers, cold winters GO Apr–Jun, Sep & Oct
Petrol stations are common Mild year-round
around main towns and Mild summers, cold winters
Alpine climate
larger towns. Unleaded
costs around €1.28 per litre;
gazole (diesel) is usually at
least €0.15 cheaper. When to Go
High Season (Jul & Aug)
RENTAL CARS » Queues at big sights and on the road, especially August.
ADA (www.ada.fr) » Christmas, New Year and Easter equally busy.
Auto Europe (www. » Late December to March is high season in Alpine ski resorts.
autoeurope.com)
» Book accommodation and tables in the best restaurants well
Avis (www.avis.com) in advance.
Europcar (www.europcar.
com) Shoulder (Apr–Jun & Sep)
Hertz (www.hertz.com) » Accommodation rates drop in southern France and other hot
spots.
IMPORTANT NUMBERS » Spring brings warm weather, flowers and local produce.
Ambulance (SAMU) %15 » The vendange (grape harvest) is reason to visit in autumn.
Police %17 Low Season (Oct–Mar)
Fire %18 » Prices up to 50% lower than high season.
Europe-wide emergency » Sights, attractions and restaurants open fewer days and
%112 shorter hours.
» Hotels and restaurants in quieter rural regions (such as the
Dordogne) are closed.




194

Hostels New-wave hostels are networks are compatible. Use a
Daily Costs design-driven, lifestyle spaces French SIM card with a French
with single/double rooms as well number to make cheaper calls.
Budget: less than €130 as dorms.
» Dorm bed: €18–30 Hotels Hotels embrace every
» Double room in budget budget and taste. Refuges and Internet Access
hotel: €90 gîtes d’étape (walkers’ lodges) Wi-fi is available at major
» Admission to many attractions for hikers can be found on trails airports, in most hotels, and
first Sunday of month: free in mountainous areas. at many cafes, restaurants,
museums and tourist offices.
» Lunch menus: less than €20 Price ranges refer to a double
room in high season, with private
Midrange: €130–220 bathroom, excluding breakfast: Money
» Double room in a midrange ATMs at every airport, most train
hotel: €90–190 € less than €90 stations and on every second
» Lunch menus in gourmet €€ €90–190 street corner in towns and cities.
restaurants: €20–40 Visa, MasterCard and Amex
€€€ more than €190 widely accepted.
Top end: more than €220
» Double room in a top-end
hotel: €190–350 Arriving in France Tipping
» Top restaurant dinner: Aéroport de Charles de By law, restaurant and bar prices
menu €65, à la carte €100–150 are service compris (ie include a
Gaulle (Paris) 15% service charge), so there’s
Trains, buses and RER suburban no need to leave a pourboire (tip).
Eating trains run to the city centre every
Restaurants & bistros 15 to 30 minutes between 5am Useful Websites
Range from traditional to and 11pm; night buses kick in
contemporary minimalist; urban from 12.30am to 5.30am. Fares French Government
dining is international, rural are €9.75 by RER, €6 to €17.50 Tourist Office (www.france.fr)
dining staunchly French. by bus and €8 by night bus. Flat Sights, activities, transport and
fare of €50/55 for 30-minute taxi special-interest holidays.
Brasseries Open from dawn journey to right-/left-bank central
until late, these casual eateries Paris (15% higher between 5pm Lonely Planet (www.
are great for dining in between and 10am, and Sundays). lonelyplanet.com/france) Travel
standard meal times. tips, accommodation, forum
Cafes Ideal for breakfast and Aéroport d’Orly (Paris) and more.
light lunch; many morph into Linked to central Paris by Mappy (www.mappy.fr)
bars after dark. Orlyval rail then RER (€12.05) Mapping and journey planning.
or bus (€7.50 to €12.50) every
Price ranges refer to the average 15 minutes between 5am and
cost of a two-course meal: Opening Hours
11pm. Or T7 tram to Villejuif-Louis
Aragon then metro to the centre Banks 9am–noon and 2–5pm
€ less than €20
(€3.60). The 25-minute journey Monday to Friday or Tuesday to
€€ €20–40 by taxi costs €35/30 to right-/ Saturday
left-bank central Paris (15% more Restaurants noon–2.30pm
€€€ more than €40
from 5pm to 10am, and Sundays). and 7–11pm six days a week
Cafes 7am–11pm
Sleeping Mobile Phones Bars 7pm–1am
B&Bs Enchanting properties European and Australian phones Shops 10am–noon and 2–7pm
with maximum five rooms. work, but only American mobiles Monday to Saturday
(cells) with 900 and 1800 MHz

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Language






The sounds used in spoken French can almost all be found in English. There are a couple of
exceptions: nasal vowels (represented in our pronunciation guides by o or u followed by an
almost inaudible nasal consonant sound m, n or ng), the ‘funny’ u (ew in our guides) and the
deep-in-the-throat r. Bearing these few points in mind and reading our pronunciation guides
below as if they were English, you’ll be understood just fine.

Where’s …?
BASICS Où est …? oo ay …
Hello. Bonjour. bon·zhoor
Goodbye. Au revoir. o·rer·vwa EATING & DRINKING
Yes./No. Oui./Non. wee/non
Excuse me. Excusez-moi. ek·skew·zay·mwa What would you recommend?
Sorry. Pardon. par·don Qu’est-ce que vous kes·ker voo
conseillez?
kon·say·yay
Please. S’il vous plaît. seel voo play I’d like …, please.
Thank you. Merci. mair·see Je voudrais …, zher voo·dray …
s’il vous plaît. seel voo play
You’re welcome. I’m a vegetarian.
De rien. der ree·en Je suis végétarien/ zher swee vay·zhay·ta·ryun/
végétarienne. (m/f)
vay·zhay·ta·ryen
Do you speak English?
Parlez-vous anglais? par·lay·voo ong·glay Please bring the bill. a·por·tay·mwa
Apportez-moi
I don’t understand. l’addition, la·dee·syon
Je ne comprends pas. zher ner kom·pron pa s’il vous plaît. seel voo play
How much is this?
C’est combien? say kom·byun
EMERGENCIES
ACCOMMODATION Help!
Do you have any rooms available? Au secours! o skoor
I’m lost.
Est-ce que vous avez es·ker voo za·vay Je suis zhe swee·
des chambres libres? day shom·brer lee·brer perdu/perdue. (m/f) pair·dew
How much is it per night/person?
Quel est le prix kel ay ler pree
par nuit/personne? par nwee/per·son Want More?
For in-depth language information
and handy phrases, check out Lonely
DIRECTIONS Planet’s French Phrasebook. You’ll
Can you show me (on the map)? find it at shop.lonelyplanet.com, or
Pouvez-vous m’indiquer poo·vay·voo mun·dee·kay you can buy Lonely Planet’s iPhone
(sur la carte)? (sewr la kart) phrasebooks at the Apple App Store.


196

windscreen
pare-brise petrol
par·breez essence
es·son

battery
batterie
ba·tree


engine
moteur
mo·ter


headlight tyre
phare pneu
far pner



Does that include insurance?
Signs Est-ce que l’assurance es·ker la·sew·rons
est comprise? ay kom·preez
Cédez la Priorité Give Way Does that include mileage?
Sens Interdit No Entry Est-ce que le kilométrage es·ker ler kee·lo·may·trazh
Entrée Entrance est compris? ay kom·pree
Péage Toll What’s the speed limit?
kel ay la vee·tes
Quelle est la vitesse
Sens Unique One Way maximale permise? mak·see·mal per·meez
Sortie Exit Is this the road to …?
C’est la route pour …? say la root poor …
Can I park here?
I’m ill. Est-ce que je peux es·ker zher per
Je suis malade. zher swee ma·lad stationner ici? sta·syo·nay ee·see
Call the police! Where’s a service station?
Appelez la police! a·play la po·lees Où est-ce qu’il y a une oo es·keel ya ewn
Call a doctor! station-service? sta·syon·ser·vees
Appelez un médecin! a·play un mayd·sun Please fill it up.
Le plein, s’il vous plaît. ler plun seel voo play
I’d like (20) litres.
ON THE ROAD Je voudrais (vingt) zher voo·dray (vung)
I’d like to Je voudrais zher voo·dray litres. lee·trer
hire a/an ... louer … loo·way … Please check the oil/water.
Contrôlez l’huile/l’eau, kon·tro·lay lweel/lo
4WD un quatre-quatre un kat·kat s’il vous plaît. seel voo play
automatic/ une auto- ewn o·to· I need a mechanic.
manual matique/ ma·teek/ J’ai besoin d’un zhay ber·zwun dun
manuel ma·nwel mécanicien. may·ka·nee·syun
motorbike une moto ewn mo·to The car/motorbike has broken down.
La voiture/moto est la vwa·tewr/mo·to ay
How much is it daily/weekly? tombée en panne. tom·bay on pan
Quel est le tarif par kel ay ler ta·reef par I had an accident.
jour/semaine? zhoor/ser·men J’ai eu un accident. zhay ew un ak·see·don

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Place de la Concorde
If it’s Parisian vistas you’re after, the
place de la Concorde makes a fine
start. From here you can see the Arc
STRETCH de Triomphe, the Assemblée Nationale
(the lower house of parliament), the
YOUR LEGS Jardin des Tuileries and the Seine. Laid
out in 1755, the square was where many
aristocrats lost their heads during the
PARIS Revolution, including Louis XVI and
Marie Antoinette. The obelisk in the
centre originally stood in the Temple of
Ramses at Thebes (now Luxor).
The Walk » Walk east through Jardin des Tuileries.
Jardin des Tuileries
Start: Place de la Concorde This 28-hectare landscaped garden
(h7am-11pm Jun-Aug, shorter hours Sep-May;
Finish: Panthéon c; mTuileries, Concorde) was laid out
in 1664 by André Le Nôtre, who also
Distance: 4.5km created Versailles’ gardens. Filled with
fountains, ponds and sculptures, the
Duration: 3 hours gardens are now part of the Banks of
the Seine World Heritage Site, created
by Unesco in 1991.
Paris is one of the world’s most The Walk » Walk across place du Carrousel onto
the Cour Napoléon.
strollable cities, whether that means
window-shopping on the boulevards Musée du Louvre
Overlooking the Cour Napoléon is the
or getting lost among the lanes of mighty Louvre, with its controversial
Montmartre. This walk starts by the 21m-high glass Grande Pyramide,
designed by IM Pei in 1989. Nearby is
Seine, crosses to the Île de la Cité the Pyramide Inversée (Upside-Down
and finishes in the Latin Quarter, Pyramid), which acts as a skylight for
with monuments and museums the underground Carrousel du Louvre
shopping centre.
aplenty en route. The Walk » Continue southeast along riverside
Quai du Louvre to the Pont Neuf metro station.
Pont Neuf
As you cross the Seine, you’ll walk over
Paris’ oldest bridge – ironically known
as the ‘New Bridge’, or Pont Neuf. Henri
IV inaugurated the bridge in 1607 by
crossing it on a white stallion.
Take this walk on Trip
The Walk » Cross the Pont Neuf onto the Île de
8 la Cité. Walk southeast along Quai des Horloges,
and then turn right onto bd du Palais.

198