Lonely Planet Europe’s Best Trips (Travel Guide)

Eating & Sleeping




Geneva 1 Bern 4
5 Brasserie des Halles 5 Altes Tramdepot Swiss €€
de l’Île European €€ (%031 368 14 15; www.altestramdepot.ch; Am
(%022 311 08 88; www.brasseriedeshallesdelile. Bärengraben; mains Sfr18-37; h11am-12.30am)
ch; Place de l’Île 1; mains Sfr20-50; h10.30am- At this cavernous microbrewery, Swiss staples
midnight Sun & Mon, to 1am Tue-Thu, to 2am compete against microbrews for your appetite.
Fri & Sat) An old market hall on an island, this 4 Hotel Goldener Schlüssel Hotel €€
industrial-style venue produces a cocktail of
aperitifs, after-dark DJs and fresh fare. Best seat (%031 311 02 16; www.goldener-schluessel.ch;
in the house is a terrace hanging over the water. Rathausgasse 72; s Sfr148-185, d Sfr190-260;
W) This comfortable 500-year-old hotel has
updated rooms in the Old Town. SWITZERLAND 38 GENEvA TO ZüRICH
Fribourg 2
5 Le Port Cafe, Bar €€ Lucerne 7
(%026 321 22 26; www.leport.ch; Planche- 5 Grottino 1313 Italian €€
Inférieure 5; h10am-11pm Tue-Sun) In a former
gas warehouse on the banks of the Sarine, the (%041 610 13 13; www.grottino1313.ch;
Port bursts with energy. Hang out on its shady Industriestrasse 7; 2-course lunch menu Sfr20;
riverside terrace enjoying lunchtime platters, or h11am-2pm & 6-11.30pm Mon-Fri, 6-11.30pm
live bands and dancing at night. Sat, 9am-2pm Sun) A welcome escape, this
relaxed yet stylish eatery with a candlelit
4 Auberge aux 4 interior serves seasonal menus featuring
Vents Boutique Hotel €€ creative pasta dishes, meats cooked over an
(%026 347 36 00; www.aux4vents.ch; Res Balzli open fire and scrumptious desserts.
Grandfrey 124; s Sfr130-170, d Sfr180-260, s/d/ 4 Château Gütsch Hotel €€€
tr/q with shared bathroom Sfr65/130/170/200;
ps) ‘Stylish’ scarcely does justice to this (%041 289 14 14; www.chateau-guetsch.ch;
eight-room inn, with its dreamy Blue Room Kanonenstrasse; d Sfr330-570, ste Sfr445-1260;
sporting a bathtub that rolls out on rails through W) The setting is incomparable at this fairy-tale
the window for a soak beneath the stars. hilltop palace dating from 1888. Many rooms
and suites enjoy sweeping views over Lake
Lucerne, as do the bar and breakfast terrace.
The decor features lavish details such as silver
Interlaken 3
claw-footed bathtubs.
4 Victoria-Jungfrau Grand
Hotel & Spa Luxury Hotel €€€
(%033 828 26 10; www.victoria-jungfrau.ch; Zürich 9
Höheweg 41; d Sfr400-800, ste Sfr600-1000; 5 Alpenrose Swiss €€
piWs) The impeccable service here
evokes a bygone era, with the perfect melding (%044 271 39 19; Fabrikstrasse 12; mains
of well-preserved art-nouveau features, modern Sfr26-42; h11am-midnight Wed-Fri, 6.15-11pm
luxury, stellar dining and plum Jungfrau views. Sat & Sun) With its timber-clad walls, ‘No
Polka Dancing’ warning and multiregional
Swiss cuisine, the Alpenrose exudes charm.
Specialities include Pizokel, a savoury kind of
Spätzli (egg noodles) from Graubünden.


549

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
NEED TO Climate

KNOW



CURRENCY Basel
Swiss franc (official GO Jul & Aug, Dec #
abbreviation CHF, also Sfr)
# Zürich
GO Apr–Aug
LANGUAGE # Bern
German (p520), French GO Jul & Aug, Nov
(p196), Italian (p110), Swiss Alps
Romansch GO late Dec–early Apr,
May–Aug
VISAS # Geneva
GO Anytime,
Generally not required for Jun–Sep
stays of up to 90 days;
some nationalities need a Warm to hot summers, mild winters
Schengen visa. Warm to hot summers, cold winters
Mild summers, cold winters
FUEL Cold climate
Polar climate, below zero year round
Petrol stations are common
on main roads and highways,
and in larger towns.
Unleaded costs around When to Go
Sfr1.55 per litre and diesel is High Season (Jul–Aug & Dec–Apr)
Sfr1.53.
» In July and August walkers and cyclists hit high-altitude trails.
RENTAL CARS » Christmas and New Year see serious snow-sports action on
Auto Europe (www. the slopes.
autoeurope.com) » Late December to early April is high season in ski resorts.
Avis (www.avis.com) Shoulder (Apr–Jun & Sep)
Europcar (www.europcar. » Look for accommodation deals in ski resorts and traveller
com) hotspots.
Hertz (www.hertz.com) » Spring is idyllic with warm temperatures, flowers and local
produce.
IMPORTANT NUMBERS » Watch the grape harvest in autumn.
Europe-wide emergency
covering police, fire and Low Season (Oct–Mar)
ambulance (%112) » Mountain resorts go into snooze mode from mid-October to
early December.
» Prices are up to 50% less than in high season.
» Sights and restaurants are open fewer days and shorter
hours.




550

The following prices indicate
Daily Costs the cost of a two-course set Internet Access
Budget: Less than menu. Wi-fi (usually free) is available to
Sfr200 € less than Sfr25 guests in most hotels, B&Bs and
» Dorm bed: Sfr30–60 hostels. Also offered by many
cafes, bars, train stations and
» Free admission to some €€ Sfr25–50 other public spaces.
museums on first Saturday or €€€ more than Sfr50
Sunday of every month
» Lunch out (up to Sfr25) and Money
self-cater after dark Sleeping ATMs widely available in cities
Midrange: Sfr200–300 Hotels From budget to luxury; and towns, rarely in villages.
» Double room in two- or three- breakfast included unless Cash is king almost everywhere;
star hotel: Sfr200–350 indicated. credit cards are not widely
accepted.
» Dish of the day (tagesteller, Pensiones Chambres d’hôte
plat du jour, piatto del giorno) in French-speaking Switzerland;
or fixed two-course menu: rates always include breakfast. Tipping
Sfr40–70 Hostels In cities and large
towns; private or HI-affiliated. Tipping is not necessary, given
Top End: More than that hotels, restaurants, bars
Sfr300 Price symbols indicate the cost and even some taxis are legally
of a double room with private
» Double room in four- or five- bathroom in high season: required to include a 15% service
star hotel: from Sfr350 charge in bills.
» Lower rates Friday to Sunday € less than Sfr170 You can round up the bill after
in city business hotels a meal for good service, as
€€ Sfr170–350 locals do.
» Three-course dinner in an
upmarket restaurant: from €€€ more than Sfr350 Hotel and railway porters expect
Sfr100 a franc or two per bag.
Bargaining is non-existent.
Arriving in Switzerland
Eating Zürich Airport
Cafes Coffee, drinks, snacks. Trains To Zürich centre, 6am to Useful Websites
Bistros Light meals to full- midnight (Sfr7, 14 minutes). Lonely Planet
blown dinners. Taxis Sfr50 to Sfr70, 20 (lonelyplanet.com) Travel tips,
accommodation, traveller
Restaurants Simple eateries minutes to centre. forums and more.
to Michelin-starred temples.
My Switzerland (www.
Vegetarian Few wholly myswitzerland.com) Swiss
vegetarian places, limited Mobile Phones (Cell tourist board.
choices on most menus. Phones) ADAC (www.adac.de) Driving
Most European and Australian information for Germany and
phones function; turn off neighbouring countries.
roaming to avoid data charges.
Buy a local SIM for cheaper
rates.





551

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Jardin Anglais
Before strolling up the hill to the Old
Town, visit the flower clock in Geneva’s
waterfront garden (Quai du Général-Guisan),
STRETCH landscaped in 1854 on the site of an old
lumber-handling port and merchant
YOUR LEGS yard. The Horloge Fleurie (Flower Clock),
Geneva’s most photographed clock, is
crafted from 6500 plants and has ticked
GENEVA since 1955. Its second hand, 2.5m long, is
claimed to be the world’s longest.
The Walk » From the clock, cross Quai du
Général-Guisan. Head south through the shopping
district to Cour de St-Pierre, which faces the
cathedral. It’s about a seven-minute stroll.
Start: Jardin Anglais Cathédrale St-Pierre
Begun in the 11th century, Geneva’s
Finish: Place du Bourg-de-Four cathedral (www.espace-saint-pierre.ch; Cour
de St-Pierre; admission free, towers adult/
Distance: 2km child Sfr5/2; h9.30am-6.30pm Mon-Sat,
noon-6.30pm Sun Jun-Sep, 10am-5.30pm Oct-
Duration: Three hours May) is predominantly Gothic with an
18th-century neoclassical facade. Be-
tween 1536–64 Protestant John Calvin
preached here; see his uncomfortable-
Geneva’s beautiful Old Town (Vieille looking seat in the north aisle. Inside
Ville) is the perfect spot for a the cathedral, 77 steps spiral up to
the attic – a fascinating glimpse at
charmingly edifying stroll, thanks to its architectural construction – from
its mix of sights and a history lesson where another 40 lead to the top of
the panoramic northern and southern
worthy of its status as one of the towers (adult/child Sfr5/2). Views of
Protestant Reformation’s key cities. the Old Town and the Jet d’Eau are
marvellous. In summer, free carillon
(5pm) and organ (6pm) concerts fill the
cathedral and its surrounding square
with music.
The Walk » Exit the cathedral and head for the
Site Archéologique de la Cathédrale St-Pierre; a
few dozen footsteps should cover it.
Site Archéologique de la
Cathédrale St-Pierre
This small archaeological site (%022 310
29 29; www.site-archeologique.ch; Cour St-Pierre;
Take this walk on Trip adult/child Sfr8/4; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun) in the
basement of Cathédrale St-Pierre has 4th-
} century mosaics in the Roman crypt and
the tomb of an Allobrogian chieftain. Its

552

Jardin
# e 0 0 0.1 miles Q du Général-Guisan Anglais
200 m
# .
Pl de la Pl du & L Jardin
#
Fusterie Molard Pl du Anglais
Port R Versonnex
R Neuve du Molard
R du Marché
R de la Cité
R du Port R du Prince R de la Tour-
Pl Longemalle R du Rhône
Maîtresse
R de Rive
R de la Madeleine
R de la Corraterie
Musée Cour de
Grand-Rue
International St-Pierre
R du Puits de la Réforme
St-Pierre R de la Fontaine R du Vieux-Collège
Bd du Théâtre
#
Pl Rampe de la Treille Cathédrale St-Pierre R Verdaine
Neuve #
#
R Soleil-Levant
Site Archéologique de la
& K
Cathédrale St-Pierre
R du Conseil-Général Parc des Promenade des Bastions Bourg-de-Four # R de la Fontaine R Charles Galland R des Glacis de Rive
R du Général Dufour
R de la Croix-Rouge
R de l'Hôtel de Ville
Place du
Bd Jaques Dalcroze
Bastions
#
entrance is at the right of the cathedral’s longest bench. Turn down Rampe de la Treille and
main portico. follow it to the park’s gates.
The Walk » Head to the other side of the Parc des Bastions
cathedral (a one-minute walk) to spend an hour at It’s all statues – plus free life-size chess
the Reformation Museum.
boards hosting lively games – in green
Musée International de Parc des Bastions. A laid-back stroll
la Réforme with locals along its tree-lined prom-
This modern museum (%022 310 24 enade reveals the 4.5m-tall po-faced
figures of Bèze, Calvin, Farel and Knox
31; www.musee-reforme.ch; Rue du Cloître 4; on Reformation Wall, which stretches
adult/child Sfr13/6; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun) in for 100m. There are play facilities for
an 18th-century mansion has state-of- kids and a skating rink in winter.
the-art exhibits on the Reformation:
printed bibles, the emergence of 16th- The Walk » From Promenade des Bastion’s
century Geneva as ‘Protestant Rome’, eastern end, walk along Rue St-Léger. Continue
John Calvin and present-day Protes- under the bridge and ahead until Place du Bourg-
tantism. A combined ticket covering de-Four ends at the fountained terrace area.
the museum, Cathédrale St-Pierre and Place du Bourg-de-Four
Site Archéologique de la Cathédrale St- Eateries, bars and locals crowd Place
Pierre is Sfr18/10 per adult/child.
du Bourg-de-Four, Geneva’s oldest
The Walk » From Cour de St-Pierre, walk down square. In summer, it’s filled to burst-
Rue Otto Barblan. Turn left onto Rue du Puits- ing with gossiping local denizens.
St-Pierre and continue past Maison Tavel (the Stalwart La Clémence (%022 312 24 98;
city’s longest-standing private residence, now a www.laclemence.ch; Place du Bourg-de-Four 20;
museum) to the bottom of Rue Henri Fazy, which h7am-1am Mon-Thu & Sun, to 2am Fri & Sat) is
overlooks Parc des Bastions and has the world’s
a popular place to linger over a coffee.
553



Austria











AUSTRIA IS A ROAD-TRIPPERS FANTASY
LAND. Not only are there spectacular
backdrops of spellbinding landscapes and
storybook architecture, but opportunities
abound to get out and experience them. Along
these routes, you can scale soaring peaks, ski
year-round, raft white-water rapids and pelt
down toboggan runs.

When you’ve had enough thrills and spills,
Austria’s multitude of cultural pursuits span
medieval castles to monumental palaces, art-
filled museums and magnificent churches. You
can taste cheese at Alpine dairies, schnapps at
distilleries, and beer and wine in monasteries
where they’re still made by monks. Or just hop
aboard a horse-drawn carriage to clip-clop
through cobbled, lamp-lit city streets.

Grossglockner Road Heiligenblut
IOAN PANAITE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

# \
# \
# ]
# \
# \
Regensberg
# \ Weissenburg Frauenau
# ]
A3
# \ Altmühltal / · # \ # \ Vitava
Nature Park Regen
# \
# \
# \ Ingolstadt # \ Straubing Grafenau
Austria / · Donau # \ Tittling
E45
GERMANY (Danube) Passau
# \ Landshut # \ F G
40
# \
# ] Schärding
Augsburg
# \ # \
/ · # ^ Munich Burghausen # \ Braunau Wels # \
A7
am Inn
Memmingen Fünfseenland
# \
Landsberg # \ Ammersee # \
am Lech Chiemsee
Wurmsee Rosenheim Salzburg
# \ # \ 0 ¸
# \ Lake # ] B158
# \ Kempten # \
Constance # \ Bad Ischl
Füssen Berchtesgaden
Garmisch-
St # ^Bregenz # \ Partenkirchen # \ # \ 0 ¸ # \
B166
Gallen Kufstein Berchtesgaden # \ Bad
# ] # \ # \ Zugspitze # \ # \ St Johnn NP / · Hallstatt Aussee
A10
/ · Lingenau (2963m) R Kitzbühel # \ # \
A14
E45
/ ·
Feldkirch # \ Krebsbach / · Saalfelden
39
39
# \ A12 # ] # \ Aschau F G # \ Fusch F G
# \ Innsbruck
Vaduz # \ # \ Hohe Tauern Tamsweg
Landeck # \ Umhausen Mayrhofen National Park # \
# \ / · R # \ Guttal # \ Rennweg # \
A13
F G # \ Ischgl Grossglockner
# \
39
# \ Sölden # \ (3798m)
# \ Chur # \
# \ Davos # \ Lienz # \ Gmünd
# \ # \
/ ·
SWITZERLAND Merano Oberdrauburg # \ Spittal an B98
# \ Parco # \ # \ Bressanone der Drau
# \ Parco Naturale
# \ St Moritz Nazionale # \
dello Stelvio Fanes-Sennes- Villach
# \ Bormio # \ ITALY Braies # \ # \
# \ Bolzano Arta Terme Tarvisio
R # \
/ · # \ Triglav
# \ E45 Predazzo
# \ (2864m)
Parco
# \ dell'Adamello
# \
# \ # \ # \ # \ # \
# \ # \ # \
# \
Grossglockner Road 5–7 Days Along the Danube 2–4 Days
# \
~ Twist and turn along three of Aus- ¤ Follow the Danube River as it flows
tria’s most spectacular mountain passes. through forests and vineyards. (p569)
(p559)
556

# \
CZECH REPUBLIC e 0 0 50 miles 100 km # \ DON'T
#
/ · MISS
E65
# \ České Znojmo Hodonin
Budějovice # \ # \
Olsinsky Gmund /· Břeclav # \
# \
E49
Rybnik Horn Lake Swimming
# \
# \ Many of Austria’s
Zwettl Krems an
# \ # \ Freistadt Alp-framed lakes reach
Bad # \ der Donau Stockerau SLOVAKIA
Leonfelden Kefermarkt # \ # \ temperatures of up to
S33
# ] Linz F G / · VIENNA BRATISLAVA 28°C in summer. Dive
40
# \ # ^ # \ / · # _ # _ into one on Trip ~
A1
Traun
# \ / · # \ Pöchlarn St Pölten
E60
# \
# \ Steyr Amstetten # \ Alland
Gaming Lilienfeld
# \ Wiener Salzburg
Waidhofen # \ Neustadt Neusiedler
Nationalpark # \ Mariazell # \ Lake Famed for its starring
Kalkalpen Göstling # \ Gloggnitz role in The Sound of
AUSTRIA Murzzuschlag # \ / · # \ Sopron Music, Salzburg’s
S31
Liezen # \
# \ Oberpullendorf Unesco-listed Altstadt
# \
(old town) is a treasure.
Leoben # \
# \ Bruck Oberwart Sarvar Visit on Trip ~
Unzmarkt- Hartberg # \ # \ / · # \
B55
Frauenburg # \ Peggau # \ Szombathely
# \ Gleisdorf HUNGARY # \
Murau 0¸ Graz # ] # \ Hiking
# \
B317
# \
E66
# \ / · / · Feldbach Through forests, up
E57
Friesach Treibach- waterfall trails, down
# \
# \ Althofen Deutschlandsberg Zalaegerszeg # \
# \ gorges, along wildflower-
# \
St Andrä strewn meadows…You’ll
Klagenfurt # \ Völkermarkt # \
# \ Redics find some of Austria’s
Ravne na # ] Maribor best hiking on Trip ~
/ · Koroškem Nagykanizsa # \
# \
B82
# \ SLOVENIA
Bled
# \ CROATIA Mur Vienna
Celje
With its resplendent
! palaces, magnificent
museums and opera
house, Austria’s capital
is the belle of the
country’s ball. Waltz by
on Trip ¤
FEEL GOOD STUDIO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Salzburg View over the city
557

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
a
b
c
2567
8567
9567
c567

TRANCEDRUMER / SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Grossglockner
Road 39







Austria’s most exhilarating trip takes you on a wild roller-coaster
drive over three legendary Alpine passes and packs in outdoor
activities from year-round skiing to windsurfing and white-water
rafting.
TRIP HIGHLIGHTS
5–7 DAYS
335 km 644 KM / 401 MILES
Gerlos Alpine Road
Sing along the yodel GREAT FOR…
hiking trail
J

l L BEST TIME TO GO
# Salzburg The peak time to
tackle this trip is
m K midsummer.

# Bregenz ESSENTIAL
# 7
# # # I PHOTO
#
4
Innsbruck
Europe’s highest
#
Lienz waterfalls, the three-
#
#
10
tiered Krimmler
Wasserfälle.
Silvretta High Alpine K BEST FOR
DRIVERS
Road Grossglockner High
Mountains reflect in Alpine Road The Grossglockner’s
the aquamarine Traverse Austria's 36 heart-in-your-mouth
reservoir highest mountain hairpin bends.
526 km 225 km
Grossglockner High Alpine Road Alpine meadow 559

Grossglockner
39 Road



Fair warning: if you’re a faint-hearted driver (or passenger), this probably
isn’t the trip for you. (Take the gentler Tyrol & Vorarlberg route instead).
But if you’re up for a serious adventure, this Austrian classic provides an
opportunity to experience epic scenery, invigorating Alpine sports, and
dizzying mountain passes with so many switchbacks they’re used by high-
performance car manufacturers and championship race drivers as test

# \ tracks. # \ Dachau


# e 0 0 25 miles 50 km
Fünfseenland
Ammersee # \
# \ Landsberg
# \
Memmingen am Lech
Bad Kaufbeuren
35
# \ F G Wurmsee
Waldsee # \
# \ Weilheim
# \ Leutkirch Marktoberdorf # \ Schongau
# \ Ravensburg GERMANY # \ # \
Kempten # \ Wieskirche # \
# \
# \ Friedrichshafen # \ Wangen Bannwaldsee Oberammergau Kochel
# \
# \ # \ # \
Kreuzlingen Alpsee Nesselwang # \
Lake Lindau
Garmisch-
# \
Romanshorn # \ Constance m K # \ Füssen # \ Partenkirchen
# \
#
Arbon # \ #Bregenz Sonthofen # \ R Mittenwald # \
# ^ 12
0 ¸
# \ Lingenau
# \ Dornbirn B190 # \ Egg Zugspitze
# \
St Gallen # Rappenlochschlucht # \ Seefeld
#
11
# \ Krebsbach # \
Appenzell # \ Hohenems # \ Mittelberg / · # \ #
# ] #
9
A12
Imst Innsbruck / ·
Nesslau Feldkirch # \ A13
# \ # \ / · 0 ¸
B183
A14
LIECHTENSTEIN Bludenz Umhausen
# \
#
Stubaital
‚ Walensee # \ # \ #\ Landeck 444
# \ Schruns
#
30 km to 0 ¸ 0 ¸ Längenfeld # \ H
444
F G Grauspitze B188 B188 Glacier p566
R
Stubai
Partenen
# \
# \ 38 44444 44 4 4 444
Sölden
Ischgl
# \
SWITZERLAND # \ Landquart 4 4 #Silvretta High Vipiteno # \
# \
10
#
4 44 44 44 44 4 444
4 4 4444
4444
444444444
4
Alpine Road
# \ # \ Chur # \ Davos
444 4 4444444444 # \ Merano
4 44
4 4 4 4
Swiss
National
Park
# \ # \ # \
# \
# \
# \

ing to hidden courtyards Beyond city stroll-
1 Salzburg and medieval squares ing, there are plenty of
Salzburg’s trophy sights framed by burgher opportunities to get
active, from swimming
houses and baroque
huddle in the pedestri- fountains. You’ll also see at Freibad Leopoldskron
anised, Unesco World plenty of icons from the (Leopoldskronstrasse 50;
Heritage–listed Altstadt evergreen musical The adult/concession €4.60/2.60;
(old town). The tangled Sound of Music. h9am-7pm May–mid-Sep),
lanes are made for a ser- Salzburg’s biggest lido,
endipitous wander, lead-
with diving boards, water
slides and volleyball, to
LINK hiking up Salzburg’s rival
YOUR mountains, the 540m
TRIP Mönchsberg and 640m
Kapuzinerberg. Both
z The Romantic } Geneva to mountains are thickly AUSTRIA 39 GROSSGLOcKNER ROAD
wooded and criss-crossed
Road
Zürich
Strike north after Mountains, pastures, by walking trails, with
photogenic views of the
Innsbruck to find a lakes and small-town
ribbon of historical charm, book-ended by # \
# \
quaintness running # \ Switzerland’s biggest # \
# \ Dachau
through Bavaria’s cities..
western reaches.
Vöcklamarkt # \Vöcklabruck
# \
# \
Gmunden
Schloss l L
Rosenheim # \ Herrenchiemsee
# \ # 1 # ] # Salzburg
# \ St Gilgen
Bad Tölz Bad Reichenhall # \ # \ Bad Ischl
# \
# \ Hallein
# \
Berchtesgaden Untersee
# \ # \ Kuchl
# \ # \ Golling
B159
# \ Kufstein Berchtesgaden NP 0¸
#
2
Wörgl # \ St Johnn Werfen #
# \ # \ Saalfelden # \
Kitzbühel # \ Schladming
Jenbach # # \ Sankt
Johann
5
0 ¸
# \ 0¸ Gerlos Alpine Uttendorf #Zell am See
# \
B311
B169
Schwaz Aschau Road # \ # \ 0 ¸ # \ Bruck
B168
# \ Fusch
/ · # \ Wattens # \ # 0¸ Bramberg 0 ¸ / · Tamsweg
4 444
44
# 7
B165
A12
A10
8
Bad
#
Zell am # 0 ¸ # 44444444444 B107 44 # \
#
6
B165
# \
Ziller AUSTRIA Hofgastein
44 Krimmler Grossglockner Grossglockner # \ Rennweg
# \ Mayrhofen
Wasserfälle
44
44444444
4444
444
444444444444
4 44444 444 4444444444 4444444444444444 44 4
(3798m)
4
# \ #
R # High Alpine Road
# \ 0 ¸
# \
Kals
4 44444 44444 4444444 4 Hohe Tauern 4 B107 Winklern # \ Obervellach # \ Gmünd
4 4 4 4 4
44444
44444
4444444444
National
Park
Ainet
# \
# \
ITALY
# \
# \ #
#
3
# \
# \
Brunico Lienz Spittal an # \
der Drau
E66
# \ 4 4 4 # \ Oberdrauburg / · # \ Techendorf
# \
# \
# \ Bressanone Parco Sillian Obertilliach # \ Kötschach
Naturale Fanes- 561
Sennes-Braies # \
# \ # \ # \ #\ # \ # \
# \ # \

Altstadt’s right bank and (which you can visit on a trip €34.50/24.50; hMay-early
left bank, respectively. through the Carinthian Lakes) Nov) swings giddily
and turn west onto the B100/ around 36 switchbacks,
The Drive » It’s 47km south E66 through the Drau Valley to
from Salzburg on the B159 Lienz (166km in total). passing jewel-coloured
to Werfen, mostly along the lakes, forested slopes and
Salzach River. After passing above-the-clouds glaciers
through a wide valley, you’ll 3 Lienz as it traverses the heart
enter a tight, steep gorge; follow Ringed by Dolomite peaks of the Hohe Tauern
it until Werfen. National Park, peaking at
blushing reddish-pink at
sunset, Lienz straddles the bell-shaped Gross-
2 Werfen the Isel and Drau Rivers, glockner (3798m), Aus-
tria’s highest mountain.
More than 1000m above and lies just 40km north En route, flag-dotted
Werfen in the Tennenge- of Italy. An ancient Roman Kaiser-Franz-Josefs-Höhe
birge mountains is Eis- settlement, today it’s a (2369m) has memorable
riesenwelt (www.eisriesen famed ski town (for its views of Grossglockner
welt.at; adult/child €11/6, incl Zettersfeld and Hochstein and the rapidly retreat-
cable car €22/12; h8am- peaks, and especially its ing Pasterze Glacier (best
3.45pm May-Oct, to 4.45pm Jul 100km of cross-country appreciated on the short
& Aug). Billed as the world’s trails), but it has an ener- and easy Gamsgrubenweg
largest accessible ice caves, getic vibe year-round. and Gletscherweg trails).
this glittering ice spectacle If you want to get Allow time to see the
AUSTRIA 39 GROSSGLOcKNER ROAD
spans 30,000 sq metres up into the mountains, glacier-themed exhibition
and 42km of narrow pas- Bergstatt (%0516-5835; at the visitor centre and
sages burrowing deep into www.bergstatt.at; Kranewitweg the crystalline Wilhelm-
the heart of the moun- 5; rock climbing trips per adult/ Swarovski observatory.
tains. A highlight is the child from €75/55) has guides Get your camera handy
cavernous Eispalast (ice who can lead you on half- for Fuscher Törl (2428m),
palace), where the frost day, full-day and multiday with super views on both
crystals twinkle when a rock-climbing, via ferrata sides of the ridge, and
magnesium flare is held up or summit trips. Fuscher Lacke (2262m), a
to them. Wrap up warmly The Drive » Take the B107 gemstone of a lake nearby.
for subzero temperatures. north, passing picturesque A small exhibition docu-
Photography is not permit- villages including Winklern ments the construction
ted inside the caves. (with a wonderful Alpine hotel; of the road, built by 3000
On a wooded clifftop p567) and Heiligenblut (look men over five years during
beneath the majestic peaks for the needle-thin spire of the Great Depression.
of the Tennengebirge its pilgrimage church) to the A 2km side road cork-
Grossglockner High Alpine Road
range, formidable fortress toll gates (43km in total). screws up to Edelweiss
Burg Hohenwerfen (adult/ Spitze (2571m), the road’s
child/family €11/6/26.50, incl lift TRIP HIGHLIGHT highest viewpoint. Climb
€14.50/8/34.50; h9am-5pm the tower for 360-degree
Apr-Oct; c) dates from 1077. 4 Grossglockner
Time your visit to be at the High Alpine Road views of more than 30
peaks topping 3000m.
castle by 3.15pm for the A stupendous feat of Between toll gates, all
falconry show. 1930s engineering, the attractions are free. Check
4 p567 48km Grossglockner the forecast before you
Road (www.grossglockner. hit the road, as the drive
The Drive » Take the A10 at; Hwy 107; car/motorcycle is not much fun in heavy
south to the Millstätter See



562

fog, snow or a storm. It’s
often bumper-to-bumper TOP TIP:
by noon, especially in
July and August; beat the ALPINE ROAD TOLLS
crowds by setting out early. Be aware that this trip’s three top-draw drives –
The Drive » Descend the Grossglockner High Alpine Road, Gerlos Alpine Road
Grossglockner on the B107 and Silvretta High Alpine Road (p566) – incur
to Bruck and take the B311 tolls. There’s also a smaller toll on the detour to the
northeast to Zell am See. Stubaital (p566). Toll booths accept cash and credit
cards.
5 Zell am See
Resort town Zell am See’s It’s 4km one way (about a begin at 10.30am every
brightly painted chalets 2½-hour round-trip walk). Wednesday from late
line the shore of the deep- June to mid-September at
blue Zeller See, framed The Drive » From the falls, it’s the Dorfbahn (adult/child
7.7km (and eight hairpin bends) to
by the Hohe Tauern’s the Gerlos Alpine Road toll gates. €9/4.50) cable-car station; AUSTRIA 39 GROSSGLOcKNER ROAD
snowcapped peaks. reserve by 5pm the previ-
Mountain breezes TRIP HIGHLIGHT ous day by phone.
create ideal conditions
for windsurfing on the 7 Gerlos Alpine Road The Drive » Continue west
on the B165, passing the
lake; Windsurfcenter Zell Open year-round, the reservoir Durlassboden, before
Am See (%0664-644 36 95; Gerlos Alpine Road (www. descending to Zell am Ziller
http://windsurfcenter.members. gerlosstrasse.at; toll per car/ along six hairpin bends (63km
cablelink.at; Seespitzstrasse 13; motorcycle €8.50/5.50) winds in total).
windsurfing/SUP/wetsuit rental 12km through high moor
per hr €10/8/3; hdawn-dusk and spruce forest, reach-
May-Sep) rents equipment ing an elevation of 1630m. 8 Zell am Ziller
and runs courses. The lookout above the At the foot of knife-edge
turquoise Stausee (reser- Reichenspitze (3303m),
The Drive » From the lake, Zell am Ziller is a former
it’s 54km to the Krimmler voir) is a great picnic stop,
Wasserfälle. Head west on the with a tremendous vista of gold-mining centre and
B168 and B165 to Krimml; the Alps. popular ski base.
when you arrive in the town the If you have the urge to Year-round, you can
waterfalls come into view. burst out into song as you take a wild toboggan ride
skip through wildflower- on the 1.45km-long Arena
6 Krimmler strewn meadows, take Coaster (www.zillertalarena.
com; Zillertal Arena; adult/
the 4.8km-long Jodel
Wasserfälle Wanderweg (Yodel Hiking child coaster only €4.80/2.90,
Europe’s highest falls, at Trail; %06565-82 43; www. incl cable car €20.90/10.40;
380m, are the thunder- jodelweg.at) in Königsleiten. h9.30am-6pm late Jun-early
ous, three-tier Krimmler You can go it alone and Sep, shorter hours rest of year;
Wasserfälle (Krimml Falls; practise your high notes c), which incorporates
www.wasserfaelle-krimml.at; at eight stops with giant both a 360-degree loop
adult/child €3/1; hticket office cowbells, alpine horns and a 540-degree loop. It’s
8am-6pm mid-Apr–Oct). The and listen-repeat audio accessible by cable car, or
Wasserfallweg (Waterfall clippings. Alternatively, a steep 1.5km walk.
Trail), which starts at the join a free guided sing Aktivzentrum Zillertal
ticket office and weaves up- ’n’ stroll hike with trail (%0664-505 95 94; www.
hill through mixed forest, founder Christian Eder. aktivzentrum-zillertal.at;
has up-close viewpoints. The three-hour ambles Freizeitpark Zell; c) offers

563

WHY THIS IS A PAUL BIRIS / GETTY IMAGES ©
GREAT TRIP
CATHERINE LE
NEVEZ, WRITER
Awe-inspiring mountainscapes
and adrenaline-pumping activities
abound on this alpine itinerary, but
the ultimate draw is the drive itself,
VIEW PICTURES / CONTRIBUTOR / GETTY IMAGES ©
peaking with its trio of dizzying
high-altitude switchback passes –
the Grossglockner High Alpine Road,
Gerlos Alpine Road and Silvretta
High Alpine Road. This is a route
that reminds you that the highlight
of road-tripping isn’t the destination
but the journey.

Top: Racing along Grossglockner High Alpine Road
Left: Bergisel ski jump in Innsbruck
Right: Krimmler Wasserfälle (Krimml Falls)

paragliding (€55 to €130),
white-water rafting on
the Ziller (€35), canyoning
(€35 to €65), via ferrata
climbing (€45 to €85) and
HSVRS / GETTY IMAGES ©
llama trekking (€20).
4 p567
The Drive » Zell am Ziller sits
60km from Innsbruck. Take the
B169 north then the A12 west.

9 Innsbruck
Hit Innsbruck’s cultural at-
tractions, then head up to
its ski jump, the Bergisel AUSTRIA 39 GROSSGLOcKNER ROAD
(www.bergisel.info; adult/child
€9.50/4.50; h9am-6pm),
for a spectacular city and
mountain panorama. Ris-
ing above Innsbruck like
a celestial staircase, the
glass-and-steel structure
was designed by Iraqi
architect Zaha Hadid.
Hadid also designed
the space-age funicular
Nordkettenbahnen (www.
nordkette.com; one-way/return
to Hungerburg €4.60/7.60,
Seegrube €16.50/27.50,
Hafelekar €18.30/30.50;
hHungerburg 7am-7.15pm
Mon-Fri, 8am-7.15pm Sat &
Sun, Seegrube 8.30am-5.30pm
daily, Hafelekar 9am-5pm daily),
which whizzes from the
Congress Centre to the
slopes every 15 minutes.
Walking trails head off in
all directions from Hun-
gerburg and Seegrube.
54 p567
The Drive » Leave Innsbruck
on the westbound A12 and veer
southwest on the B188, passing
a string of ski towns, to the
Silvretta High Alpine Road toll
gates (118km all up).


565

TRIP HIGHLIGHT DETOUR:
a Silvretta High STUBAITAL
Alpine Road
Silhouetted by the Sil- Start: 9 Innsbruck (p565)
vretta range and crowned Slip out of sandals and into skis at year-round skiing
by the 3312m arrow of Piz magnet, Stubai Glacier. A one-day summer ski pass
Buin, the Montafon Valley (www.stubaier-gletscher.com) costs €43/21.50 per adult/
remains one of the most child and covers 26 lifts accessing 62km of slopes. Ski
serene and unspoilt in the or snowboard and boot rental costs around €30/15
Austrian Alps. per adult/child. Summer skiing is between 2900m
The 23km-long Sil- and 3300m and is dependent on weather conditions.
vretta High Alpine Road Lower down in the Stubai Valley, the
(www.silvretta-bielerhoehe. Wildewasserweg waterfall trail wends for 9.2km
at; car/motorcycle €15/12; (one way) to Sulzenau Glacier. En route, it passes
hearly Jun-late Oct) twists the spectacular Grawa falls; there’s a cafe with a
and turns beneath peaks panoramic viewing deck at its base.
rising to well over 2500m The Stubai Glacier is just 38km south of
before climbing over the Innsbruck. Take the A13 south to the toll gates (per
2036m Bielerhöhe Pass via car including passengers €3); keep right to take the
34 tight switchbacks. At B183 southwest along the valley.
AUSTRIA 39 GROSSGLOcKNER ROAD
the top of the pass, the Sil-
vretta Stausee (2030m),
an aquamarine reservoir, 19th-century cotton mill Germany, to the left,
mirrors the surrounding is the unlikely home of the Switzerland.
peaks on bright mornings. world’s largest collection A cable car (www.
of Rolls-Royces at the pfaenderbahn.at; Steinbruch-
The Drive » It’s 100km to Rolls-Royce Museum (www. gasse 4; one-way adult/child
Rappenlochschlucht. Continue rolls-royce-museum.at; Gütle 11a; €7.10/5.70, return €12.20/9.80;
on the B188 and join the A14 adult/child €9/4.50; h10am- h8am-7pm Dec-Oct) glides
at aromatic Bludenz. Continue
northwest to Dornbirn, from 6pm daily Jul & Aug, 10am-6pm up the Pfänder. At the
where Rappenlochschlucht is Tue-Sun Feb-Jun & Sep-Nov). top, a 30-minute circular
4km southeast on Gütlestrasse. The Drive » Return to trail brings you close to
Dornbirn and head north on the deer, wild boar, ibex and
whistling marmots at the
b Rappenloch- B190 for 16km to Bregenz. year-round Alpine Game
schlucht Park Pfänder (www.pfaender.
The Rappenlochschlucht c Bregenz at; Pfänder; hsunrise-sunset).
(Rappenloch Gorge; www. Bregenz sits on the shores Some 5km south of cen-
rappenlochschlucht.at) of Lake Constance (in Ger- tral Bregenz is the nature
was gouged out by the man, Bodensee), Europe’s reserve Rheindelta (www.
thundering Dornbirner third-largest lake. The rheindelta.org). Its mossy
Ache. From the car park, views here are extraor- marshes, reeds and wood-
there’s a 375m trail to the dinary: before you the lands attract more than
Staufensee, a turquoise mirror-like lake; behind 300 bird species, including
lake ringed by forest. you, 1064m-high mountain curlews, grey herons and
At the bottom of the the Pfänder, to the right, rare black-tailed godwits.
Rappenlochschlucht, a 54 p567




566

Eating & Sleeping


Sat, 4pm-midnight Sun) Take a gastronomic walk
Werfen 2 on the wild side at this modern-day hunter-
gatherer of a restaurant, where chefs take pride
4 Weisses Rössl Pension € in local sourcing and using top-notch farm-fresh
(%06468-5268; Markt 39; s/d €30/52) In the and foraged ingredients. The menu sings of the
village centre, this good-value pension has great seasons, be it asparagus, game, strawberries or
views of the fortress and the Tennengebirge winter veg. The vibe is urbane and relaxed.
from its rooftop terrace. Rooms are a blast from 4 Weisses Rössl Guesthouse €€
the 1970s, but all are large and cosy with sofas
and cable TV. (%0512-58 30 57; www.roessl.at; Kiebachgasse
8; s €70-110, d €100-160; iW) An antique
rocking horse greets you at this 16th-century
Winklern guesthouse. The vaulted entrance leads up
to spacious rooms recently revamped with AUSTRIA 39 GROSSGLOcKNER ROAD
4 Hotel Tauernstern Chalet €€ blond wood, fresh hues and crisp white linen.
(%04822-7205; www.tauernstern.at; Winklern The owner is a keen hunter and the restaurant
24, Winklern; s/d from €49/98; pW) (mains €10 to €18) has a meaty menu.
Sweeping valley views extend from the timber
balconies of this mountain-set gem. Four-
poster pine-and-stone beds, in-room fridges, Bregenz c
a sauna and spa built from local wood and
slate, and an exceptional gourmet restaurant 5 Gebhardsberg Austrian €€
using ingredients from local farms all make (%05574-908 61 60; www.greber.cc;
Tauernstern a fabulous pit stop before tackling Gebhardsbergstrasse 1; mains €14-26.50;
the Grossglockner High Alpine Road. h11.30am-10pm daily May-Sep, 11.30am-10pm
Tue-Sun Oct-Apr) Sweeping lake views taking
in Switzerland and Germany extend from the
Zell am Ziller 8 dining room and terrace of this hilltop castle
1km south of the centre. Local specialities
4 Hotel Englhof Boutique Hotel €€ include Käsespätzle (hand-rolled noodles with
(%05282-3134; www.englhof.at; Zellbergeben cheese) with traditional apple sauce and fried
28; s/d/tr/ste from €55/103/153/110; W) onions, Lake Constance trout with almond
Beautiful blond-wood-panelled, white-linen- butter and parsley potatoes, and white cheese
dressed rooms (many with balconies) and strudel for dessert.
amenities like free DVD rental make Englhof CaptionCaptionCaptionCaption
a superb place to stay. But what really seals 4 Schwärzler Hotel €€
the deal is its in-house gourmet restaurant (%05574-4990; http://schwaerzler.s-hotels.
and world-class cocktail bar with Austria’s com; Landstrasse 9; s/d from €122/153;
second-largest collection of spirits (over 1400 pWs) This turreted, ivy-clad place is a
varieties), mixing incredible cocktails like a far cry from your average business hotel.
Bloody Mary with frozen cherry tomatoes and Contemporary rooms are done out in earthy
barbecued black-pepper seasoning. hues and blond wood, with comforts including
bathrobes, flat-screen TVs and minibars.
Regional produce from organic farms features
Innsbruck 9 on the breakfast buffet, and there’s a 400-sq-
5 Die Wilderin Austrian €€ metre pool and a sauna area. Parking costs €7.
(%0512-56 27 28; www.diewilderin.at;
Seilergasse 5; mains €11-18; h5pm-2am Tue-



567

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a575

Along the
SYLVAIN GRANDADAM / GETTY IMAGES ©

Danube 40





Follow the beautiful Danube River as it flows from the German
city of Passau by the Austrian border through farmland, forest and
vineyard-streaked hillsides to Austria’s majestic capital, Vienna.


TRIP HIGHLIGHTS
2–4 DAYS
205 km 293 km 293 KM / 182 MILES
Dürnstein Vienna
Richard the Lionheart View Vienna by foot, GREAT FOR…
was imprisoned here in horse-drawn carriage
HB
a now-ruined castle or Ferris wheel

BEST TIME TO GO
Aim for summer:
l L Krems an many places close
between November
Passau # # # der Donau m K and March.
# 7
9
#
Linz # # _ #
10
#
# ! ESSENTIAL
# Melk I PHOTO
#
4
St Florian’s dazzling
interior.
K BEST FOR
ART
Stift Göttweig Linz’s contemporary
St Florian This Unesco-listed Lentos gallery.
Visit the abbey's abbey serves its own
exuberant basilica monk-made wines
92 km 219 km
569
Passau Cruising the Danube River

40 Along the 1 Passau
Just inside the German
border, Passau’s pastel-
Danube
shaded Altstadt (old
town) sits atop a narrow
peninsula jutting into the
Immortalised in the stirring Blue Danube waltz confluence of three rivers:
the Danube, the Inn and
by Austrian composer Johann Strauss II, this the Ilz. Christianity gen-
magnificent river ripples with the reflections erated prestige as Passau
of green forests, hilltop castles, and ribbons of evolved into the largest
bishopric in the Holy Ro-
vineyards, particularly on its prettiest stretch, man Empire, as testified
the Wachau, between Melk and Krems an der by the mighty cathedral
Dom St Stephan (www.
Donau. Along the river’s course are plenty bistum-passau.de; Domplatz;
of surprises too, including the cutting-edge h6.30am-7pm).
Stroll the old town,
city of Linz, and two monasteries producing, which remains much as
# \ # \
respectively, sublime beer and wine. Gmund

Olsinsky
Rybnik CZECH
295 km to REPUBLIC
F G GERMANY
35
‚
E55
Passau / ·
l L 0 ¸ Bad # \ # \ Freistadt
# \ #
# 1
B130
# Leonfelden # \ Kefermarkt
#
2
Inn Engelhartszell
B130
# \ an der Donau 0¸
Schärding
0 ¸ / ·
B131
A7
0 ¸ Linz Mauthausen
B127
# ] #
# / · Memorial
3
#
#
5
A1
Traun / · 0 ¸ / · Grein # \
B3
A7
Traun L564 # Donau
# \
# \
4
0 ¸ # \ / · St Florian Enns
# \ #
A25
E522
A8
Ried im / · # \ Wels / · Amstetten # \
A1
Innkreis
Lambach
# \ Sierning
# \ # \ # \ Steyr
/ · Kremsmünster
144
Vöcklabruck Waidhofen # \
Vöcklamarkt # \
/ ·
# \
115
Gmunden
17 km to Attersee # \ # \ Weyregg # \ # \ Molln
# \
F G Attersee Traunsee # \ # \
39
‚ # \ Mondsee # \ # \ Heckenau
# \ Ebensee Nationalpark Kalkalpen
# \
# ]
# \ # \
# \

it was when the powerful breweries outside Belgium,
prince-bishops built its 2 Engelhartszell an and the only one in Aus-
tight lanes, tunnels and der Donau tria. At the 1293-founded
archways with an Ital- abbey Engelszell (www.
ianate flourish. The little riverside village stift-engelszell.at; Stiftstrasse
of Engelhartszell an der 6; hchurch 8am-7pm Apr-Oct,
54 p575 Donau is home to one of to 5pm Nov-Mar, shop 9am-5pm
only eight licensed Trappist
The Drive » Cross the Inn Apr-Oct, 10-11.30am & 2.30-4pm
River where it joins the Danube
and head east on ST2125 which,
3.3km later, becomes the B130 LINK
on entering Austria, and follows YOUR
the Danube’s southern bank. TRIP
On your right, you’ll pass Burg
Krempelstein, built on the site The Romantic Grossglockner
of a Roman watch house. It’s z ~
26km all up to Engelhartszell an Road Road AUSTRIA 40 ALONG THE DANuBE
der Donau. Head west, skirting A hop and a skip south
Munich, to this ribbon and you can twist
of historical quaintness and turn along three
# \
running through of Austria’s most
Bavaria’s western spectacular montian
# \
Gmund reaches. passes.

# \ Zwettl # e 0 0 20 miles 40 km
/ ·
E59
Krems an / ·
E49
der Donau Stockerau
Dürnstein # # \ Feuersbrunn # \
#
8
# # \ Donau
# 7
/ ·
B37
# # \ # \
#
9
Spitz # \ Wachau Stift Tülln Klosterneuburg
Göttweig 0 ¸ / · Vienna
L100
# _ ##I
#
10
Melk B1 Purkersdorf # \ m K p578
#
St Pölten
6
L120
Marbach / · # / · # \ 0 ¸ / · / · / · # \
B44
E60
B3
B1
# \ A1
# \ # ^
Pöchlarn / · Mödling
A1
# \
# \
# \ Hinterbrühl
Alland
# \
B18
# \ / · Baden # \
Hainfeld
AUSTRIA # \ Lilienfeld
# \
Berndorf / ·
/ · E59 # \
B20
# \ Wiener
# \ Gaming
Neustadt
# \
Lunz
# \
# \
Puchberg
# \ # \ Mariazell # \
Göstling Neunkirchen
Gloggnitz 571
# \
# \
# \

Sat & Sun Nov-Mar), you can Mon-Sat, 8am-7.15pm Sun) is
purchase monk-made a neo-Gothic giant of a
brews (dark Gregorius, cathedral with a riot of STIFT ST. FLORIAN/BEYER
amber Benno, and blond pinnacles, flying buttresses
Nivard); the shop also and filigree traceried
sells liqueurs and cheeses windows.
produced here. Adjoining
the shop is the abbey’s 54 p575
gorgeous rococo church, The Drive » Take the A1
completed in 1764. southeast to Ebelsberg, then
continue on the L564 to St
The Drive » Take the B130; at Florian (21km all up).
Aschach an der Donau, cross the
river on the B131, and continue
east to Ottensheim to join the TRIP HIGHLIGHT
B127 to Linz (52km in total).
4 St Florian
Rising like a vision above
3 Linz St Florian is its mag-
The Austrian saying In nificent abbey, Augustiner
Chorherrenstift (www.
Linz beginnt’s (It begins
in Linz) sums up this stift-st-florian.at; Stiftstrasse
AUSTRIA 40 ALONG THE DANuBE
technology trailblazer. 1; tours €8.50; h11am, 1pm &
Its leading-edge Ars 3pm May-early Oct). Dating
Electronica Center (www. to at least 819, it has been
occupied by the Canons
aec.at; Ars Electronica Strasse 1;
adult/child €8/6; h9am-5pm Regular, living under
Augustinian rule, since
Tue-Fri, to 9pm Thu, 10am-6pm
Sat & Sun) has labs for 1071. Today its imposing
interacting with robots, yellow-and-white facade is on the B3. After 2.4km take
overwhelmingly baroque.
animating digital objects, the L1411 for 2.5 signposted
Compulsory guided
converting your name tours of the abbey’s interi- kilometres to the Mauthausen
to DNA and (virtually) Memorial (22km in total).
travelling to outer space. or take in the resplendent
After dark, the LED glass apartments adorned with
rich stuccowork and fres-
skin kaleidoscopically 5 Mauthausen
changes colour. Directly cos, including 16 emperors’ Memorial
rooms (once occupied by
across the Danube is Linz’s Nowadays Mauthausen
world-class contemporary- visiting popes and royalty) is a peaceful small town
art gallery, the glass-and- and a galleried library on the north bank of the
housing 150,000 volumes.
steel Lentos (www.lentos. Danube, but during WWII
The Stiftsbasilika
at; Ernst-Koref-Promenade 1; (h7am-dusk) is an exuber- the Nazis turned the quar-
adult/child €8/4.50, guided tours ant affair with an altar rying centre into the KZ
€3; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun, to Mauthausen concentra-
9pm Thu), with works by carved from 700 tonnes of tion camp. Prisoners were
pink Salzburg marble, and
Warhol, Schiele and Klimt, forced into slave labour
among others. a gold 18th-century organ. in the granite quarry and
But it’s not all new in The Drive » Head northeast many died on the so-called
Austria’s third-largest on the L566 to join the B1. Todesstiege (stairway of
city: the Mariendom (Her- Follow it for 7.5km then turn death) leading from the
renstrasse 26; h7.30am-7pm east on the B123 to cross the
Danube, before turning west quarry to the camp. Some
572

St Florian The beautiful pipe organ on display in the Stiftsbasilika
100,000 prisoners perished high octagonal dome.
or were executed in the 6 Melk The baroque-gone-barmy
camp between 1938 and Historically, Melk was of interior has regiments of
1945. The complex is now a great importance to the cherubs, gilt twirls and
memorial (www.mauthausen- Romans and later to the polished faux marble.
memorial.at; Erinnerungsstrasse Babenbergs, who built a The theatrical high-altar
1; admission incl guided tour €5, castle here. In 1089 the Ba- scene depicts St Peter and
audioguide €3; h9am-5.30pm benberg margrave Leopold St Paul (the church’s two
Mar-early Jul, 9am-5.30pm II donated the castle to patron saints).
Tue-Sun early Jul-Oct, 9am-3pm Benedictine monks, who
Tue-Sun Nov-Feb); English- converted it into the forti- The Drive » The Wachau is
the loveliest along the mighty
language audioguides fied Stift Melk (Benedictine river’s length: both banks here
relate its sobering history. Abbey of Melk; www.stiftmelk.at; are dotted with ruined castles
It’s not recommended for Abt Berthold Dietmayr Strasse 1; and terraced with vineyards.
under 14s. From Melk, follow the river
adult/child €10/5.50, with guided northeast along the nothern
The Drive » Travelling east for tour €12/7.50; h9am-5.30pm bank for 28km, passing medieval
76km brings you to Melk. Along May-Sep, tours 11am & 2pm villages Spitz, Wösendorf in der
the river at Grein, look out for Oct-Apr). Fire destroyed Wachau and Weissenkirchen, to
the dramatic castle Greinburg the original edifice; today reach Dürnstein.
rising to your left.
its monastery church
dominates the complex
with its twin spires and

573

Stiftskirche (which has a
TOP TIP: Kremser Schmidt work
DANUBE CRUISES in the crypt). Best of all
is the opportunity to sip
Floating past vine-covered banks crowned by wine made here by the
castles gives you a different perspective of the river. monks – including an
From Passau, Wurm + Köck (%0851-929 292; www. exquisite Messwein rosé –
donauschiffahrt.de; Höllgasse 26) operates cruises between on the panoramic garden
Regensburg, Germany, and Vienna from March to early terrace above the valley
November. One-way/return tickets for one stop start (you can also buy it at the
from €10.50/11.50; 10-stop tickets start from €26/29. abbey’s shop).
The Drive » From Stift
Göttweig, it’s 79km to Vienna.
has an attractive cobbled The most scenic route, through
centre and gallery-dotted farmland and forest, is south on
TRIP HIGHLIGHT
Kunstmeile (Art Mile; www. the L100 to St Pölten, then east
7 Dürnstein kunstmeile-krems.at). Its flag- on the L120 to join the eastbound
Picturesque Dürnstein ship is the Kunsthalle (www. B44 at Ebersberg. Continue
through the Wienerwald to the
is best known for the kunsthalle.at; Franz-Zeller-Platz Austrian capital.
Kuenringerburg – the 3; admission €10; h10am-5pm
now-ruined castle above Tue-Sun), a collection of gal-
AUSTRIA 40 ALONG THE DANuBE
the town where Richard leries and museums, with TRIP HIGHLIGHT
the Lionheart (Richard I of changing exhibitions. a Vienna
England) was imprisoned 4 p575 Renowned for its imperial
from 1192 to 1193, before palaces, baroque interiors,
being moved to Burg The Drive » Leave Krems opera houses and mag-
Trifels (p178) in Germany. an der Donau on the B37 and nificent squares, Vienna is
Of the 16th-century cross the southbound L100. also one of Europe’s most
buildings lining Dürn- Stift Göttweig is well signposted dynamic urban spaces. The
(9km altogether from Krems).
stein’s hilly, cobbled best way to experience its
streets, the Chorherren- blend of old and new is on
stift (www.stiftduernstein.at; TRIP HIGHLIGHT a walking tour (p578).
Stiftshof; adult/child €3/1.50; 9 Stift Göttweig A wonderfully atmos-
h9am-6pm Mon-Sat, 10am- Surrounded by grape- pheric (if touristy) alterna-
6pm Sun Apr-Oct) is the most laden vines, Unesco World tive is aboard a Fiaker (up to
impressive. It’s all that Heritage–listed Stift 4 passengers 20min/40min/1hr
remains of the former Göttweig (Göttweig Abbey; tour €55/80/110), which is
Augustinian monastery %02732-855 81-0; www.stift- a traditional-style open
originally founded in 1410, goettweig.at; Furth bei Göttweig; carriage drawn by a pair
and received its baroque adult/child €7.50/4; h9am- of horses. Drivers point out
facelift in the 18th century.
6pm Jun-Sep, 10am-6pm Oct- places of interest en route.
The Drive » Head east along May) was founded in 1083, Lines of horses, carriages
the river on the B3 for 7.5km to but the abbey you see and bowler-hatted drivers
reach Krems an der Donau. today is mostly baroque. can be found at Stephans-
Highlights include the platz, Albertinaplatz
Imperial Staircase with and Heldenplatz at the
8 Krems an der a heavenly ceiling fresco Hofburg.
Donau painted by Paul Troger in Or survey the city
Against a backdrop of 1739, and the over-the-top from Vienna’s 65m-high,
terraced vineyards, Krems baroque interior of the 1897-built Ferris wheel, the
Riesenrad. It’s located at
574

Eating & Sleeping


glass-and-concrete cube reveals streamlined
Passau 1 interiors in pristine whites and blond wood that
reveal a Nordic-style aesthetic. Wind down with
5 Heilig-Geist-Stifts- a view at the rooftop spa.
Schenke Bavarian €€
(%0851-2607; www.stiftskeller-passau.de;
Heilig-Geist-Gasse 4; mains €10-20; h11am- Krems an der Donau 8
11pm, closed Wed; W) Not only does this 4 Arte Hotel Krems Design Hotel €€
historical inn have a succession of walnut-
panelled ceramic-stove-heated rooms, a (%02732-711 23; www.arte-hotel.at; Dr-Karl-
candlelit cellar (from 6pm) and a vine-draped Dorrek-Strasse 23; s/d €109/159; pW)
garden, but the food is equally inspired. Amid This cutting-edge art hotel has 91 large,
the river fish, steaks and seasonal dishes there well-designed rooms scattered with big retro AUSTRIA 40 ALONG THE DANuBE
are quite gourmet affairs such as beef fillet in prints and patterns complementing the funky
flambéed cognac sauce. Help it all along with ’60s-style furniture.
one of the many Austrian and German wines
in stock.
Vienna a
4 Hotel Schloss Ort Boutique Hotel €€
(%0851-340 72; www.hotel-schloss-ort.de; 5 Bierhof Austrian €
Im Ort 11; s €68-121, d €97-184; pW) This (%01-533 44 28; http://bierhof.at; 01, Haarhof
800-year-old medieval palace by the Inn River 3; mains €10-19; h11.30am-11.30pm; W;
conceals a tranquil boutique hotel, stylishly mHerrengasse) A narrow passageway opens
done out with polished timber floors, crisp white to a courtyard where umbrella-shaded tables
cotton sheets and wrought-iron bedsteads. beneath the trees make a charming spot to dine
Many of the 18 rooms enjoy river views and on homemade classics like Eiernockerl (flour-
breakfast is served in the vaulted restaurant. and-egg dumplings), Tiroler Groest’l (pork,
Parking is an extra €4. potatoes and bacon, topped with a fried egg),
Tiroler Leber (liver dumplings with apple sauce
and green beans) and Weiner Schnitzel with
Linz 3 parsley potatoes. The bar stays open until late.
5 k.u.k. Hofbäckerei Cafe € 4 Hotel Capricorno Hotel €€
(Pfarrgasse 17; coffee & cake €3-6; h6.30am- (%01-533 31 04-0; www.schick-hotels.com/
6.30pm Mon-Fri, 7am-12.30pm Sat) The Empire hotel-capricorno; 01, Schwedenplatz 3-4; s/d
lives on at this gloriously stuck-in-time cafe. from €120/150; pW; mSchwedenplatz)
Here Fritz Rath bakes the best Linzer Torte in Behind an unpromising mid-20th-century
town – rich, spicy and with lattice pastry that facade, Hotel Capricorno was stunningly made
crumbles just so. over in 2015 in lustrous velveteens in zesty lime,
orange, lemon and aubergine shades. Most
4 Hotel am Domplatz Design Hotel €€ of its 42 rooms have balconies (front rooms
(%0732-77 30 00; www.hotelamdomplatz.at; overlook the Danube Canal but rear rooms are
Stifterstrasse 4; d €125-145, ste €300; aiW) quieter). Rare-for-Vienna parking is available for
Sidling up to the neo-Gothic Neuer Dom, this just €23 per day. It’s a 10-minute walk from the
Stephansdom.







575

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
NEED TO Climate

Mild to hot summers, cold winters
KNOW Warm to hot summers, mild winters
Mild year-round
Cold climate
CURRENCY
Euro (€)
Vienna
LANGUAGE GO Late Mar–Oct
#
German (see p520) Kitzbühel Salzburg
GO Jun–Sep & # GO Jul & Aug
VISAS Dec–Mar
#
#
Generally not required for Innsbruck # Graz
stays of up to 90 days; GO Jun–Sep & GO Apr–Oct
Dec–Mar
some nationalities need a
Schengen visa.
FUEL
Petrol stations are common
on main roads and highways,
and in larger towns.
Unleaded costs around
€1.50 per litre and diesel is
€1.25.
When to Go
RENTAL CARS High Season (Apr–Oct)
Auto Europe (www. » High season peaks from July to August.
autoeurope.com) » In lake areas, the peak is June to September.
Avis (www.avis.com)
» Prices rise over Christmas and Easter.
Europcar (www.europcar. » Salzburg is busiest in July and August for the Salzburg
com) Festival.
Hertz (www.hertz.com)
Shoulder (late Mar–May & late Sep–Oct)
» The weather’s changeable, the lakes are chilly and the hiking’s
IMPORTANT NUMBERS excellent.
Europe-wide emergency
covering police, fire and » Sights are open and less crowded.
ambulance (%112) Low Season (Nov–Mar)
» Many sights are closed.
» There’s a cultural focus in Vienna and the regional capitals.
» Ski resorts open from mid-December.
» High season for skiing is mid-December to March.







576

cafes, bars, train stations and
Daily Costs Sleeping other public spaces.
Budget: Less than €80 Hotels From budget to luxury;
» Dorm beds or cheap doubles: breakfast included unless
€25 per person indicated. Money
» Self-catering or lunch specials: Pensiones Rates always ATMs are widely available.
€6–12 include breakfast. Maestro direct debit and Visa
and MasterCard credit cards are
» Cheap museums: €4 Hostels In cities and large accepted in most hotels and in
towns; private or HI-affiliated.
Midrange: €80–160 Price symbols indicate the cost midrange restaurants. Expect to
» Hotel singles: €60–90 per of a double room with private pay cash elsewhere. Travellers
person bathroom in high season: cheques are not accepted.
» Two-course meal with glass of
wine: €30 € less than €80 Tipping
» High-profile museums: €12 €€ €80–160 Restaurant and bar prices
Top end: More than €160 €€€ more than €160 include a service charge but
» Plush suites and doubles in locals still tip. Taxis expect 10%.
major cities: from €200
» Pampering at spa facilities: Arriving in Austria Useful Websites
€40–100 Vienna Airport
» Fine dining and wine pairing: Lonely Planet
€70 Train & S-Bahn To city (lonelyplanet.com) Travel tips,
centre every 30 minutes, 6am accommodation, traveller
to 11.30pm (€4 to €12, 15 to 30 forums and more.
minutes).
Eating Austria (www.austria.info)
Taxis €35 to €50; 30 minutes Austrian tourist board.
Cafes Coffee, drinks, snacks. to centre. ADAC (www.adac.de) Driving
Bistros Light meals to full- information for Germany and
blown dinners. neighbouring countries.
Restaurants Simple eateries Mobile Phones (Cell
to Michelin-starred temples. Phones)
Vegetarian Few wholly Most European and Australian
vegetarian places, limited phones function; turn off
choices on most menus. roaming to avoid data charges.
The following prices indicate the Buy a local SIM for cheaper
cost of a two-course set menu: rates.

€ less than €15 Internet Access
€€ €15–30
Wi-fi (usually free) is available to
€€€ more than €30 guests in most hotels, B&Bs and
hostels. Also offered by many








577

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Café Central
Park just around the corner on Freyung
and fortify yourself with coffee and a
slice of Altenbergtorte cake at grand Café
Central (www.palaisevents.at/cafecentral.html;
STRETCH 01, Herrengasse 14; h7.30am-10pm Mon-Sat,
10am-10pm Sun; W; mHerrengasse).
YOUR LEGS The Walk » Walk southeast on Herrengasse for
350m, then through the Michaelertor palace gate
VIENNA to the imposing Hofburg.
Hofburg
Nothing symbolises Austria’s culture and
heritage more than the Hofburg (Imperial
Palace; www.hofburg-wien.at; 01, Michaelerkuppel;
g1A, 2A Michaelerplatz, mHerrengasse, jD, 1,
2, 71, 46, 49 Burgring), seat of the Habsburgs
Start/Finish: Café Central from 1273 to 1918. Its oldest section is
the 13th-century Schweizerhof (Swiss
Distance: 3.4km Courtyard). The palace owes its size and
architectural diversity to one-upmanship;
Duration: Four hours sections were added by new rulers,
including the Gothic Burgkapelle (Royal
Chapel), early baroque Leopold Wing,
16th-century Amalia Wing and 18th-
Vienna’s grandeur unfolds in all century Imperial Chancery Wing.
its glory on this city stroll, from The Walk » It’s a 750m stroll southwest
the timeless elegance of its through Heldenplatz, passing the twin museums
Naturhistorisches and Kunsthistorisches on
Kaffeehäuser (coffee houses) to Maria-Theresien-Platz, to the MuseumsQuartier.
its monumental Hofburg palace, MuseumsQuartier
museums, parks and opulent opera The MuseumsQuartier (Museum Quarter;
house, as well as magnificent www.mqw.at; 07, Museumsplatz; hinformation
& ticket centre 10am-7pm; mMuseumsquartier,
churches. Volkstheater) is a remarkable ensemble of
museums, cafes, restaurants and bars
inside former imperial stables. With over
60,000 sq metres of exhibition space, the
complex is one of the world’s most ambi-
tious cultural spaces.
The Walk » Head southeast through the
MuseumsQuartier’s arched laneways to
Mariahilfer Strasse. Turn left and continue 350m
northeast to the Burggarten.
Burggarten
The Burggarten (Castle Garden; www.
Take this walk on Trip bundesgaerten.at; 01, Burgring; h6am-10pm Apr-
Oct, 7.30am-5.30pm Nov-Mar; mMuseumsquartier,
¤ jD, 1, 2, 71) is a leafy oasis amid the city’s
hustle and bustle. The marble statue of
Mozart is the park’s most famous tenant,
578

000
000
0000000
000
0000000
000
0000000
000
J
0000000
000
0000000
00000
000
000
%
00000
0000000
00000
000
000000000
Am Hof
Café
Rathauspark
000000000
500 m
000
000000000
000
00000
0.25 miles
00000# e 0
00000
000000000
000
Central
000000000
000
00000
Rathaus
000
00000
000000000
00000
000000000
#
000
00000
000
000000000 Rathausplatz/
Rathausplatz
# §
000000000
000
000000000
000
000000000 Burgtheater
000
000000
000000000
000000
000000
000000
Rathauspark # ¤ Minoritenplatz Herrengasse 00000 0 # Peterskirche Stock-im- Sonnenfelsgasse
000000
000000
0000000
Naglergasse
000000
Eisen-Plat
0000000z
000000#§
0000000
000000
Stadiongasse/ Herrengasse Kohlmarkt 0000000
Stadiongasse Herrengasse 0000000
# ¤ Parlament Graben 0000 0000000 Wollzeile
0000 0000000
#
0000 0000000
000
Stephansdom
0000 0000000
000000 Habsburgergasse 0000 0000000
000
# §
000
Volksgarten 000000 0000000
000000
000
000000
000
In der 000 Stephansplatz
000000
000000
000000
Burg
Schmerlingplatz Dr Karl- 000000000 Kumpfgasse
000000
000000000
000 00000
000000
# ¤ Renner-Ring 000000000 # Singerstr # §
000000000
000000
000 00000
000 00000
000000000 Hofb
000000urg
000 00000
000000000
000000000
000000000
00000
00000
0000000 000 00000 Kärntner Str Weihburggasse 00000
000000000 Josefsplatz
0000000
000000000
00000
0000000
000000000
00000
0000000
000000000
0000000
00000
000000000
0000000 Heldenplatz
0000000
00000
0000000
0000000 000000000 00000 Himmelpfortgasse 00000
0000000 000000000
0000000
0000000
00000
Burgring
0000000
0000000
Museumstr
00000000
0000000
00000
0000000
0000000 000000000 Neue
0000000
0000000 000000000
00000
00000000
0000000
Volkstheater # § 0000000 000000000 # Burg 000 Tegetthoffstr Johannesgasse 00000
00000000 0000
0000
0000000
0000000
0000000
(Ringstrasse)
Maria-
Augustinerstr
0000000
0000000
0000
0000000
0000000
00000000 0000
000
0000000
0000
0000000
0000000
0000000
00000000 0000 Burggarten
Theresien-
0000000
0000
00000000 0000
000
0000000
0000000
0000000
0000
0000000
0000000
00000000 0000
Burgring
Platz
0000000
0000000
0000
0000000
0000
00000000 0000
0000000
0000000
000
0000
0000
000
0000000
0000000
00000000 0000
Annagasse
Babenbergerstr
# ¤
0000
0000000
00000000
000
0000
00000000
000
0000000
0000
Museums 00000000 0000 Goethegasse 000 Krugerstr Hegelgasse
00000000
0000000
0000
0000000
0000
Quartier # 0000000 Staatsoper # Walfischgasse
0000
0000000
0000
Spittelberggasse # § Museumsquartier Schillerplatz # ¤ Mahlerstr
Operngasse Ring/Oper Schwartzenbergstrasse
Kärntner
0000
# ¤
0000
0000
0000
Nibelungengasse
0000
0000
0000
0000
Getreidemarkt
0000
0000
Mariahilfer Str & Domschatz audio tours 9-11.30am & 1-4.30pm Heumarkt
# §
but there’s also a statue of Emperor Franz
Josef. Don’t miss the Schmetterlinghaus Mon-Sat, 1-3.30pm Sun; mStephansplatz), is lo-
(butterfly house), and the Palmenhaus cally – and ironically – nicknamed Steffl Am
bar, housed in a beautifully restored (Little Stephan). A church has stood here
Jugendstil (art-nouveau) palm house. since the 12th century; reminders include
the Romanesque Riesentor (Giant Gate)
The Walk » From the garden’s northeastern and Heidentürme. Inside, a magnificent
edge, walk southeast on Hanuschgasse for 200m
to the city’s opera house, the Staatsoper. stone pulpit, sculpted in 1515, presides
over the main nave.
Staatsoper
The neo-Renaissance Staatsoper The Walk » Take Goldschmiedgasse northwest
for 230m to Petersplatz and the domed
(www.wiener-staatsoper.at; 01, Opernring Peterskirche.
2; mKarlsplatz, jD, 1, 2, 71) is Vienna’s
foremost opera and ballet venue. Built Peterskirche
between 1861 and 1869, it initially ap- The Peterskirche (Church of St Peter; www.
palled the Viennese public, earning the peterskirche.at; 01, Petersplatz; h7am-8pm Mon-
nickname ‘stone turtle’. Performances Fri, 9am-9pm Sat & Sun; mStephansplatz) was
here are unforgettable; you also can visit built in 1733 according to plans by the
its museum and/or take a guided tour. celebrated baroque architect Johann Lu-
kas von Hildebrandt. Interior highlights
The Walk » Head north on Kärntner Strasse for include a fresco on the dome painted by
600m to the Stephansdom, and pause to check
out the glorious tiled roof. JM Rottmayr and a golden altar depicting
the martyrdom of St John of Nepomuk.
Stephansdom
Vienna’s soaring, filagreed Gothic mas- The Walk » Head northwest on Graben and
Naglergasse for 200m. Turn left onto Haarhof for
terpiece, the Stephansdom (St Stephan’s Ca- 90m, then right onto Wallnerstrasse for 80m; Café
thedral; www.stephanskirche.at; 01, Stephansplatz; Central is in front of you.
h6am-10pm Mon-Sat, from 7am Sun, main nave
579

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK
BEHIND We love to hear from travellers – your comments help make
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ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson
BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map
of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’,
Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 1633 -44.
Front cover photographs: (top) Neuschwanstein
Castle, Courtesy of the Bavarian Palace
Department, Noppasin/Shutterstock© (right)
Marble statue, mrivserg/Shutterstock© (left)
Citroen Dolly, Ken Scicluna/AWL©
Back cover photograph: Cypress trees and red
poppies, Tuscany, Buena Vista Images/Getty©


















THIS BOOK This guidebook was produced by the following:
Destination Editors Jo Cooke, Helen Elfer, Gemma
This 1st edition of Lonely Planet’s Europe’s Best Graham, Lorna Parkes, James Smart, Anna Tyler
Trips guidebook was curated by Belinda Dixon
and researched and written by Isabel Albiston, Product Editor Tracy Whitmey
Oliver Berry, Stuart Butler, Kerry Christiani, Fionn Senior Cartographer Valentina Kremenchutskaya
Davenport, Belinda Dixon, Marc Di Duca, Peter Book Designer Clara Monitto
Dragicevich, Duncan Garwood, Anthony Ham,
Paula Hardy, Catherine Le Nevez, Sally O’Brien, Cover Researcher Naomi Parker
Josephine Quintero, Daniel Robinson, Brendan Thanks to Bridget Blair, Victoria Harrison, Monique
Sainsbury, Andy Symington, Ryan Ver Berkmoes, Perrin, Kirsten Rawlings, Alison Ridgway, Luna Soo
Nicola Williams and Neil Wilson.
580

©Lone- ly Planet Publications Pty Ltd






INDEX






Arranmore Island 349, 351
A Arromanches 136-7 B
Abbazia di Sant’Antimo 62 Ars Electronica Center 572 Bacharach 487-8, 489
Aberfeldy 268, 269 art 20, 83 Bad Karlshafen 512
Accademia Carrara 52 Ashmolean Museum 210 Badia a Passignano 58, 63
Agrigento 93, 98-9 Assarancagh Waterfall 350 Bains des Pâquis 542
Aix-en-Provence 129, 131, Astorga 408 Ballaghbeama Gap 336
150 Augsburg 498, 503 Ballater 263-4, 269
Aktivzentrum Zillertal 563 Augustiner Ballycarbery Castle 333
Alassio 104-5, 107 Chorherrenstift 572 Ballycastle 343, 351
Aletsch Glacier 537-8 Austria 555-79 Balmoral Castle 263
Algarve Beaches 18, 459-69 accommodation 577 Barafundle Bay 286
Alicante 380-1, 386 car hire 576 Barcelona 384-5, 387, 442-3
Aljezur 462 costs 577 Bären Park 545
Almería 376-7, 386 currency 576 Basilica di San Marco 33, 83
Almuñécar 375-6 emergencies 576 Basilique du Sacré-Coeur
Alpine Game Park food 577 122-3
Pfänder 566 fuel 576 Bath 214, 242-3, 245, 294-5
Altes Rathaus 522 internet access 577 Battistero 81
Alt-Rothenburger language 576 Bayerisches
Handwerkerhaus 494 mobile phones 577 Eisenbahnmuseum 495
Amalfi 69-71, 73 money 577 Bayeux 125, 137-9, 141
Amalfi Coast 12, 65-73 planning 576-7 Bayeux Tapestry 125
Ambleside 248, 259 tipping 577 Beachy Head 239
Amboise 191-2, 193 transport 577 Beaulieu 241
Andermatt 532 visas 576 Beauly 277
Antibes 165-6, 172 weather 576 Beauty Priory 276
Aonach Eagach 272-3 websites 577 Bedruthan Steps 224
architecture 20, 83 wi-fi 577 Beethoven-Haus Bonn 482
Ardmore 324 Auswandererhaus 514 Belfast 317-18, 326, 343
Arena (Verona) 82 Avebury 213-14, 219, 242 Bellagio 49-50, 53
Argelès-Gazost 157 Aviemore 265, 269 Ben Nevis 274
Arles 147-9, 151 Ávila 418, 424 Bergamo 52, 53
Arosa 531 Azay-le-Rideau 188 Bergisel 565

581

Bergpark Wilhelmshöhe 509 Burg Maus 486 Castello di Ama 61
Bergstatt 562 Burg Rheinfels 486 Castello di Venere 92
Bern 545-6, 549 Burggarten 578-9 Castello di Verrazzano 57-8
Bertolt-Brecht-Haus 498 Burgos 406-7, 412, 422, 425 Castelvecchio 82
Biarritz 146-7 Burren 321-2 Castilla y León 415-25
Biot 167 Buttermere 253-4 Castrillo de los
Blair Atholl 267, 269 Polvazares 408-9
Blair Castle 267 C Castrojeriz 407
Blausee 537 Cabo de Gata 377 Catania 97, 99
Blenheim Palace 243-4 Cabo Fisterra 410 Cathédrale de Notre
Blois 192, 193 CabriO 547 Dame (Paris) 199
Bodenwerder 512-13 Cacela Velha 468 Cathédrale Notre Dame
INDEX B-C
Bodleian Library 210 Caen 135, 141 (Chartres) 124-5
Bologna 35-6, 41 Caherconnell Fort 323 Cauterets 157-9, 161
Bonn 482 Caherdaniel 310-11, 336 CERN 543
Bonnie Prince Charlie 273 Cahergall 333 Cetara 72
Book of Kells 302 Cahersiveen 333-5 chalk figures 210-11
Boppard 485-6 Cairngorm Mountain 264 Chambord 125, 192
Bordeaux 125-7, 130-1 Cairngorms National Park Chamonix 128-9
Borghese Palace 37 231-2, 233 Champagne 175-83
Borrowdale 253-4 Caldey Island 286 Champagne Georges
Bowness-on-Windermere Caledonian Canal 274 Cartier 181
248, 259 Cambridge 218, 219, 292-3 Chapelle du Rosaire 166
Braemar 263, 269 Camino de Santiago 402 Chartres 124-5, 130
Brantwood 256 Campo de’ Fiori 113 Château Comtal 147
Braubach 483-4 Cannes 150, 165, 172 Château de Pau 155
Brecon Beacons National Cannobino 46-7 Château de Versailles 124
Park 225, 233 Canterbury 238, 245 châteaux (Loire) 13, 186-93
Bregenz 566, 567 Capitoline Museums 37 Chepstow 214-15
Bremen 514, 517 Cappella degli Cheverny 193
Bremerhaven 514-15 Scrovegni 33, 82 Chinon 187, 193
Bridge of Balgie 268 Cappella Palatina 91 Chorherrenstift 574
Bridge of Sighs 84 Carcassonne 147 Christ Church
Brighton 238, 245 Cardiff 214, 219 Cathedral 366
Briones 431 Carmarthen 285 Church Island 335
Bristol 243, 245 Carrapateira 463 Cirque de Gavarnie 147, 157
British Museum 210 Carrick-a-Rede Rope Cité de l’Espace 147
Brothers Grimm 512 Bridge 318, 344 Clifden 304, 312
Brüder Grimm-Haus 507 Carrigart 348 Cliffs of Moher 304-7
Brunate 49 Cartagena 379, 386 Cockermouth 254
Brunelleschi, Filippo 36 Carvoeiro 466-7, 469 Col du Tourmalet 159
Buckingham Palace 209 Casa Batlló 443 Colline du Château 201
Burg Hohenwerfen 562 Casal de Loivos 455 Cologne 480-1, 522-3
Burg Katz 486 Casino de Monte Carlo 171 Colosseum 37, 76

582
582

Comarés 392 Dún Aengus 322, 360 Fintown Railway 350
Como 47-9, 53 Dunbeg Fort 308 Florence 17, 36, 41, 56-7, 63,
Conciergerie 199 Dunfanaghy 319, 326, 351 78-9, 86-7, 114-15
Coniston 256-7, 259 Duomo (Florence) 36, 79, Foix 160, 161
Cork City 324, 327 114 Fondation Maeght 166
Corniche de l’Estérel 166 Duoro Valley 449-57 Fort Augustus 274
Costa del Sol 389-97 Dürnstein 574-5 Fort William 273, 277
Coutances 140 Düsseldorf 480 Fortezza 62
Covarrubias 422-3 France 117-201
Craigendarroch 263 E accommodation 195
Cramant 181-2 Edinburgh 216-17, 219 business hours 195 INDEX C-F
Cremona 40 Eichstätt & the Altmühltal car hire 194
Cromane Peninsula 332 Nature Park 498 costs 195
Crummock Water 254 Eisriesenwelt 562 currency 194
Elciego 431, 435 emergencies 194, 196-7
D Elegug Stack Rocks 286 food 195
da Vinci, Leonardo 32, 191 Elterwater 250 fuel 194
Danube cruises 574 Emmental Region 546-7 internet access 195
language 194, 196-7
Danube River 569-75 Emmentaler
Dartmoor National Schaukäserei 546 mobile phones 195
Park 224, 233 Engelberg 532, 533 money 194, 195
D-Day beaches 133-41 Engelhartszell an der Donau tipping 195
Delta de L’Erbe 381 571-2 transport 195
Derry 345, 351 Engelszell 571 visas 194
Derrynane National Historic Ennis 307-8, 312-13, 354-6, weather 194
Park 310-11 361 websites 195
Derwentwater 253 Ennistymon 356, 361 wi-fi 195
Dingle 308, 313, 322, 327 Épernay 178-81, 183 Fraumünster 548
Dinkelsbühl 495, 502 Erice 91-2, 98 French language 196-7
Disentis Abbey 532 Eskdale 255 French Riviera 129, 163-73
Doctor Who Experience 214 Estella 403 Freshwater West 286
Doe Castle 348-9 Estepona 396, 397 Fribourg 544, 549
Dog Falls 276 Exmoor National Park 274-5 Friedensmuseum 482
Dom St Kilian 492 Èze 171, 173 Frómist 407
Dom St Petri 514 Fuengirola 393, 397
Dom zu Fulda 508 F Fuente de Vino 403
Donauwörth 497-8 Fahan 347 Fuggerei 498
Doolin 322, 360, 361 Fährboot 487 Fulda 508
Douro Valley 449-57 Falaise aux Vautours 156 Funicolare Como-
Dove Cottage 250 Faro 467-8, 469 Brunate 49
Downings 351 Feria de Malaga 385 Funiculaire de Fribourg 544
Drumnadrochit 275-6 Festung Ehrenbreitstein 483 Fürstbischöfliche
Dublin 302, 312, 316-17, 326, Finale Ligure 104, 107 Residenz 498
366-7 Füssen 500, 503

583
583

Future Jüdisches Glen Lyon 268
Museum 522 Glen Nevis 273-4 H
Glencolumbcille 350 Hadrian’s Wall 229-30
G Glenevin Waterfall 345-7, Hamelin 513, 517
Gaeilge language 364 351 Hanau 506, 507
Galleria degli Uffizi 36, Gletscherschlucht 535 Hanover 513-14
79, 115 Gold Beach 136 Harburg 495-6
Galleria dell’Accademia Gorges du Verdon 129 Hardknott Pass 255-6
(Florence) 36, 114 Gornergratbahn 537 Haro 430-1
Gallerie dell’Accademia Göttingen 511-12, 517 Harry Potter movies 273
(Venice) 33 Gower Heritage Centre 282 Hautvillers 178
Galway City 302-4, 312, Grasmere 250, 259 Hawkshead 257-8, 259
INDEX F-I
354, 361 Grasse 170 Haystacks 254
Gap of Dunloe 336 Great Britain 203-295 Healy Pass 324
Gästekarte 499 accommodation 291 Heiligtum der Isis und Mater
Gemsstock 532 business hours 291 Magna 488
Geneva 542-4, 549, 552-3 car hire 290 Herrenhäuser Gärten 513
Genoa 32, 40, 102-3, 107 costs 290, 291 Highland Folk
German language 520-1 currency 290 Museum 265-7
Germany 475-523 emergencies 290 Highland games 263
accommodation 519 food 291 Highland Wildlife Park 265
car hire 518 fuel 290 highlights 8-9, 10-19
costs 519 internet access 291 Hill Top 256
currency 518 languages 290 Historisches Museum
emergencies 518, 521 mobile phones 291 Schloss Philippsruhe 506
food 519 money 291 history 21
fuel 518 planning 290 Hofburg 578
internet access 519 tipping 291 Hohes Schloss 500
language 518, 520-1 transport 291 Honister Pass 254
mobile phones 519 visas 290 Horn Head 319, 349
money 519 weather 290 Hunsrückbahn 485
planning 518-19 websites 291 Hyde Park 209
tipping 519 wi-fi 291
transport 519 Great Glen 271-7 I
visas 518 Greve in Chianti 58 Igreja de São Lourenço de
weather 518 griffon vultures 156 Matos 467
websites 519 Grimmwelt 509 Île de Ré 146
wi-fi 519 Grindelwald 533, 535-6 Imperia 105
Giant’s Causeway 18, 318-19, Grizedale Forest 258 Inisfallen 338
326, 344 Grossglockner High Alpine Inisheer 360, 361
Gibraltar 396 Road 562-3 Inishmór 322, 327, 360, 361
Giessbachfälle 535 Grossmünster 548 Iniskeel Island 350
Glen Affric 276 Grotte de Niaux 160 Innsbruck 565, 567
Glen Coe 272-3, 277 Interlaken 544-5, 549

584
584

Inverness 276, 277
Ireland 297-365 J L
accommodation 363 Jane Austen Centre 214 La Grande Corniche 167-9
car hire 362 Jardin Anglais 552 La Rioja 17, 427-35
costs 363 Jardin des Tuileries 198 La Rochelle 145-6, 151
currency 362 Jodel Wanderweg 563 Lacock 244
emergencies 362 Juan-les-Pins 165-6 Lago di Como 47
food 363 Jungfraujoch 548 Lago d’Orta 46
fuel 362 Juno Beach 136 Lago Maggiore 44
internet access 363 Lagos 463, 469
languages 362, 364-5 K Laguardia 433-4, 435 INDEX I-L
mobile phones 363 Kandersteg 537 Lake District 247-59
money 362, 363 Kassel 509, 516 Lake District National
tipping 363 Kaub 487 Park 229, 233
transport 363 Kellerwald-Edersee Landgrafenschloss 508
visas 362 National Park 509 Landsberg am Lech 498
weather 362 Kenmare 309-10, 313, 323, Langdale Pikes 250
websites 363 327, 336, 339 Langeais 193
wi-fi 363 Kensington Gardens 209 Las Fallas de San José 385
Iskaheen 345 Keswick 251, 259 Last Supper, The 32
Isle of Anglesey 227-8, 233 Kidwelly 283-5 Laugharne 282
Isle of Skye 232 Kilfenora 357 Lauterbrunnen 536-7
Isole Borromee 44 Killarney 308, 313, 330-1, Le Clos Lucé 191
Italian Lakes 10, 42-53 339 Le Mesnil-sur-Oger 182
Italian language 110-11 Killarney National Park 337 Leacanabuile 333
Italian Riviera 101-7 Killorglin 311, 332, 339 Leaning Tower of Pisa 79
Italy 25-115 King’s College Chapel 292 Leeds Castle 237-8
accommodation 109 Kingussie 265-7 Lentos 572
car hire 108 Kinlochleven 273, 277 L’Entroterra 106
costs 109 Kloster Disentis 532 León 407-8, 413
emergencies 108, 110 Knocknadobar 333 Les Arènes (Arles) 149
food 109 Koblenz 482, 489 Les Forges de Pyrène 160
fuel 108 Kölner Dom 481, 522 Les Langeais 187-8
internet access 109 Kolumba 523 Lienz 562
language 108, 110-11 Krems an der Donau 574, Linz 572, 575
mobile phones 109 575 Lisdoonvarna 359
planning 108-9 Krimmler Wasserfälle 563 Loch Affric 276
tipping 109 Kulturhaus 483 Loch Garten 265
transport 109 Kunsthalle 574 Loch Linnhe 273
visas 108 Kunsthaus 548 Loch Lomond 230-1
weather 108 Kunstmeile 574 Loch Morlich 264
websites 109 Kunstmuseum 546 Loch Ness 274-6
wi-fi 109 Loches 189
Logroño 405, 412, 429, 430

585
585

Loire Valley 13, 185-93 Mojácar 377, 379, 386 Orihuela 380
London 208-10, 219, 237 Monaco 171 ospreys 265
Longues-sur-Mer 137 Monchique 466 Ouistreham 135-6
Lorelei Sculpture 486 Mönchsjochhütte 548 outdoor activities 21
Loreley 486 Mont St-Michel 125, 130 Outer Hebrides 232
Lucerne 547, 549 Montagne de Reims Oxford 210, 244, 245
Lyme Regis 223-4 Champagne Route 178
Lyon 131 Montalcino 61-2, 63 P
Montepulciano 62, 63 Padua 32-3, 82-3
M Muckross Estate 337 Palais des Nations 542-3
Mumbles, the 281-2, 289
Madrid 417, 440-1 Palatino 76
Magna Carta 211 Mumm 176 Palazzo Ducale 84
INDEX L-P
Mainz 488, 489 Musée du Louvre 198 Palazzo Vecchio 79
Mainzer Dom 488 Musée Picasso 166 Palermo 91, 98
Málaga 374-5, 386, 391-2, MuseumsQuartier 578 Pamplona 402-3, 412
397 music 353-61 Pantheon (Rome) 37, 77-8, 112
Manchester 215-16, 219 Panthéon (Paris) 199
Marbella 395, 397 N Panzano in Chianti 58-9
Marburg 508-9, 516 Nájera 429 Paris 12, 122-3, 130, 198-9
Märchenstrasse 513 Naples 37-8, 41 Parkmill 282-3
Mariendom 572 Narin 350, 351 Pass of Glencoe 272-3
Marina del Cantone 68, 73 Nastro Azzurro 69 Passau 570-1, 575
Marina di Furore 69 National Trust Pau 155-6, 161
Marksburg 483 membership 251 Peak District National
Marsala 92, 98 Near Sawrey 256 Park 228, 233
Marseille 149-50 Nerja 391, 397 Pembroke 287, 289
Matterhorn Glacier Neues Stadtmuseum 499 Peñafiel 422, 425
Paradise 537 New Forest 222-3, 233 perfume 170
Matterhorn Museum 538 Nice 150, 151, 167, 172, 200-1 Peso da Régua 452, 457
Mauthausen Memorial 572-3 Nocelle 68 Petit Train d’Artouste 156
Meenaleck 349 Nordkettenbahnen 565 Pfalzgrafstein 487
Melk 573 Nördlingen 495, 503 Phare de Verzenay 178
Mémorial – Un Musée pour Normandy American Cemetery Pic du Midi 159
la Paix 135 & Memorial 139-40 Picasso, Pablo 377
Menton 170-1, 173 Noto 96, 99 Pinhão 453, 457
Mercat de la Boqueria 443 Pisa 79-81, 87
Mercier 179-81 O Place de la Concorde 198
Mijas 393 Oberwesel 483 Plaza Mayor 440
Milan 32 Odeceixe 461-2 Pointe du Hoc 140
Miltown Malbay 356 Oeschinensee 537 Pompeii 38
Miranda do Douro 456, 457 Old Man of Coniston 256 Ponferrada 409-10
Modena 81-2, 87 Omaha Beach 139-40 Pont Neuf 198
Modica 95, 99 Oriel y Parc 288 Ponte Vecchio 115
Moët & Chandon 179

586
586

Portbradden 318 Sant’Agata sui Due
Portimão 465-6 R Golfi 67-8
Portmagee 311 Ragusa 93 Santiago de Compostela
Porto 451-2 Rappenlochschlucht 566 410-11, 413
Portsmouth 239 Rathlin Island 343 Santo Domingo de la
Portstewart 344-5, 351 Rathmelton 348, 351 Calzada 406, 429-30, 435
Portugal 445-473 Rathmullan 348 Santo Domingo de Silos 423
accommodation 471 Ravello 71-2, 73 Sarlat-la-Canéda 127-8
car hire 470 Reims 176-8, 183 Savona 103-4
costs 471 reindeers 264 Scafell Pike 255
currency 470 Remagen 482 scenic roads 13 INDEX P-S
emergencies 470 Rhine cruises 487 Schilthorn 536-7
food 471 Rhine Valley 19, 479-89 Schloss Harburg 495
fuel 470 Rhossili 283, 289 Schloss
Hohenschwangau 500-1
internet access 471 Ring of Kerry 323, 329-39
language 470 Roe Valley 345 Schloss
Neuschwanstein 500-1
mobile phones 471 Roman Forum 77 Schloss Weikersheim 494
money 471 Romantic Road 491-503 Schloss Wilhelmshöhe 509
planning 470-1 Rome 37, 41, 76-8, 86, 112-13 Schneeballen 495
tipping 471 Roncesvalles 401-2 Schongau 499
transport 471 Roquebrune-Cap-Martin Sciacca 92-3
visas 470 169-70 Scottish Highlands 12, 261-9
weather 470 Ross Castle 338 Seebad Utoquai 548
websites 471 Rossbeigh Strand 332-3 Segesta 91
wi-fi 471 Rothenburg ob der Tauber Segovia 417-18, 424
Portuguese language 472-3 494-5, 502 Seilbahn 488
Positano 68, 73 Roundstone 304 Selinunte 92
Potter, Beatrix 253, 256, 257 Rüdesheim 488, 489 Sentiero degli Dei 69
Praia da Arrifana 462 Rue St-François de Paule 200 Shakespeare’s Globe 210
Praia da Falésia 466 Rydal Mount 250 Sicily 89-99
Praia da Rocha 465-6 Rye 238 Siena 78
Praia de Vale Figueira 462-3 Silves 466
Praiano 69 S Sitges 383-4
Promenade des Anglais 150, Sagres 463, 469 Skellig Michael 310
167, 200 Sahagún 407 Skellig Ring 333
Puebla de Sanabria 419 Salamanca 418-19, 424
Puente la Reina 403 Salisbury 211, 242, 245 Skiddaw 251
Sky Road 304
Pyrenees 153-61 Salzburg 561-2 Slea Head 308
Samos 410 sled dogs 265
Q San Gimignano 78 Sligo Town 319, 326-7
Quinta do Crasto 453 San Millán de Cogolla 429 Sneem 336, 339
Quinta do Vallado 452-3 San Remo 105-6, 107 Snowdonia National
Quinta Nova 453 Santa María de Eunate 403 Park 225, 227


587
587

Solva 287-8, 289 Stratford-upon-Avon 215-16 Therme Vals 531
Soria 423, 425 Stresa 44-6, 53 Thomas, Dylan 281, 282
Sorrento 67, 73 St-Savin 157, 161 Three Cliffs Bay 282
Spain 369-443 St-Stephan-Kirche 488 Three Sisters 272
accommodation 437 Stubaital 566 Titanic Belfast 318-19, 343
car hire 436 surfing 283 Tomintoul 264, 269
costs 437 Swallows and Amazons 256 Torc Waterfall 338
currency 436 Swansea 281, 289 Tordesillas 421
emergencies 436, 438 Swiss Alps 17, 529-39 Toro 419
food 437 Switzerland 525-553 Torre del Mangia 78
fuel 436 accommodation 551 Torre Ghirlandina 82
internet access 437 car hire 550 Torremolinos 392-3, 397
INDEX S-V
languages 436, 438-9 costs 551 Toulouse 147, 151
mobile phones 437 currency 550 Transhumance 156
money 437 emergencies 550 Trapani 92, 98
transport 437 food 551 Tremezzo 50-2
visas 436 fuel 550 Trinity College 292-3, 302,
weather 436 internet access 551 366
wi-fi 437 languages 550 Trophée des Alpes 167, 169
Spanish language 438-9 mobile phones 551 Trümmelbachfälle 536
St Anna Kirche 498 money 551 Tullyaughnish Church 348
St Bees Head 255 planning 550-1 Turin 30-2, 40
St Davids 288, 289 tipping 551 Tuscany 55-63
St Goar 486, 489 transport 551
St James 407 visas 550 U
St Mura Cross 347 weather 550 Uffington White
St Non’s Bay 288 websites 551 Horse 210-11
St Patrick’s Cathedral 366 wi-fi 551 Ullswater 258
St Paul’s Cathedral 237 Syracuse 96-7, 99 Unesco Biosphere
St Peter’s Basilica 37 Entlebuch 547
Staatsoper 579 T Unesco World Heritage
Stackpole Estate 286 Taittinger 176 sites 75-87
Stadtmuseum 495 Taormina 97, 99 Utah Beach 140
Stanserhorn 547 Tapisserie de Bayeux 125
Steall Meadows 274 Tarascon-sur-Ariège 160 V
Steinau 506-7 Tarn Hows 257 Valencia 382, 387
St-Émilion 146, 151 Tarragona 382-3, 387 Valentia Island 311, 333
Stephansdom 579 Tauberbischofsheim 493-4 Vallée d’Aspe 156
Stift Göttweig 574 Tauberfränkisches Vallée d’Ossau 156-7
Stift Melk 573 Landschaftsmuseum 494 Vals 531-2
Stock Ghyll Force 248 Tavira 468, 469 Varenna 52
Stonehenge 15, 211, 213, 242 Teatro La Fenice 33 Varese 47
St-Paul de Vence 166 Tenby 285, 289 Vatican Museums 37


588
588

Venice 33-5, 40, 83-4, 87 Walk of the Gods 69 Worms Head 283
Ventimiglia 106, 107 walks 198-9, 200-1 Wrynose Pass 255-6
Verbania 46, 53 Wasdale 254 Würzburg 492-3, 502
Verkehrshaus 547 waterfalls 248, 273
Verona 82 Waterville 335-6, 339 X
Versailles 124 Weikersheim 494 Xàtiva 381-2
Verzenay 178 Weinhaus Heilig Grab 485
Verzy 178 Werfen 562, 567 Y
via ferrata 273 Westminster Abbey 208
Viana 405 Westport 319-21 York 217-18, 219
Vico Equense 67 Whinlatter Forest Park 254 Yorkshire Dales National INDEX V-Z
Vienna 574, 575, 578-9 whisky 268 Park 228
Vietri sul Mare 72 White Park Bay 318
Vieux Nice 200-1 Whitesands Bay 288 Z
views 20 Wieskirche 499-500 Zambujeira do Mar 461, 469
Vila Nova de Foz Côa 456 Wilhelmshöhe 509-10, 516 Zamora 419, 424-5
Vila Nova de Milfontes 461 Willibaldsburg 498 Zell am See 563
Villa Romana del Casale 93 Willy Wonka 495 Zell am Ziller 563, 565, 567
Villafranca del Bierzo 410 Winchester 211, 239-40, 245 Zentrum Paul Klee 545
Villandry 188 Windermere 248 Zermatt 538
Vinothèque 487-8 Windsurfcenter Zell Am Zumdorf 532
Viterbo 36-7 See 563 Zum Grünen Baum 487
wine 15, 21, 59, 536 Zürich 548, 549
W wine tours 55-63, 174-83, Zytglogge 545
426-35, 448-57
Wade, General George 274 Wordsworth, William 250,
Wade’s Bridge 268 254
Wales 279-89
























589
589

NICOLA WILLIAMS NEIL WILSON
British writer Nicola Williams has lived in France and Neil was born in Scotland and has lived there most
written about it for more than a decade. From her of his life. Based in Perthshire, he has been a full-
hillside house on the southern shore of Lake Geneva, time writer since 1988, working on more than 80
road trips beckon to Provence, Paris, the Dordogne guidebooks, including the Lonely Planet guides to
and onwards to the Atlantic Coast where she has Scotland, England, Ireland and Prague. An outdoors
spent endless years revelling in its extraordinary enthusiast since childhood, Neil is an active hill-
landscapes, architecture and seafaring cuisine. walker, mountain-biker, sailor, snowboarder, fly-fisher
Nicola has worked on numerous Lonely Planet titles, and rock-climber, and has climbed and tramped in
including Discover France and Paris. Find her on four continents, including ascents of Jebel Toubkal in
Twitter and Instagram at @Tripalong. Morocco, Mount Kinabalu in Borneo and the Old Man
of Hoy in the Orkney Islands.
Read more about Nicola at: https://auth. Read more about Neil at https://auth.lonelyplanet.
lonelyplanet.com/profiles/nicolawilliams com/profiles/neilwilson






































590

DANIEL ROBINSON BRENDAN SAINSBURY
Co-author (with Tony Wheeler) of Lonely Planet’s first Originally from Hampshire, England, Brendan first
Paris guide, Daniel has been writing about France went to Spain on an Inter-rail ticket in the 1980s. He
for over 25 years. Passionate about history, he is went back as a travel guide several years later and
always moved by the grand châteaux of the Loire, the met his wife-to-be in a small village in rural Andalucía
sombre cemeteries of the Somme, and the dramatic in 2003. He has been writing books for Lonely Planet
and tragic events that both embody. Daniel’s travel for a decade, including four previous editions of the
writing has appeared in the New York Times, National Spain and Andalucía guides. Brendan loves Granada,
Geographic Traveler and many other publications the writing of Federico Lorca, cycling along via
and has been translated into 10 languages. He verdes, and attending as many flamenco shows as his
holds degrees in history from Princeton and Tel Aviv research allows.
University.
Read more about Brendan at: https://auth.
lonelyplanet.com/profiles/brendansainsbury




















ANDY SYMINGTON RYAN VER BERKMOES
Though he hails from Australia, Andy’s great- Ryan once lived in Germany. He spent three years in
grandfather emigrated to Portugal in the 19th century Frankfurt, during which time he edited a magazine
and that side of his family still calls the country home. until he got a chance for a new career with... Lonely
This connection means that he has been a frequent Planet. One of his first jobs was working on Lonely
visitor to the country since birth, and now nips across Planet’s Germany coverage. He loves smoked fish,
the border very frequently from his home in Spain. which serves him well in the north, and he loves beer,
Andy has authored and co-authored numerous Lonely which serves him well everywhere in Germany. Follow
Planet and other guidebooks. him at ryanverberkmoes.com and @ryanvb.




Read more about Andy at: https://auth. Read more about Ryan at: https://auth.
lonelyplanet.com/profiles/andysymington lonelyplanet.com/profiles/ryanvb
591

PAULA HARDY CATHERINE LE NEVEZ
From the slopes of Valpolicella to the shores of Lake Catherine’s wanderlust kicked in when she
Como and the spritz-fuelled bars of Venice and Milan, roadtripped across Europe aged four. She’s
Paula has been contributing to Lonely Planet Italian been hitting the road at every opportunity since,
guides for over 15 years, including previous editions completing her Doctorate of Creative Arts in Writing,
of Venice & the Veneto, Pocket Milan, The Italian Lakes, Masters in Professional Writing, and post-graduate
Sicily, Sardinia, Puglia & Basilicata and Italy. When qualifications in editing and publishing along the way.
she’s not scooting around the bel paese, she writes Over the last dozen-plus years she’s written scores of
for a variety of travel publications and websites. Lonely Planet guides, along with numerous print and
Currently she divides her time between London, Italy online articles, covering destinations all over Europe
and Morocco, and tweets her finds @paula6hardy. and far beyond.
Read more about Paula at: https://auth. Read more about Catherine at: https://auth.
lonelyplanet.com/profiles/paulahardy lonelyplanet.com/profiles/catherine_le_nevez





















SALLY O’BRIEN JOSEPHINE QUINTERO
Australian-born Sally, a Lonely Planet writer since Spain is Josephine’s favourite country on earth and
2001, has called Switzerland home since 2007. she has lived in Málaga province on the Costa del
Swapping her surfboard for a snowboard, the beach Sol for over 20 years. As well as co-authoring four
for the lake and the barbecue for the caquelon, she editions of the Lonely Planet Spain title, she has
loves exploring Switzerland’s charming cities, the worked on the Andalucía regional guide and numerous
sublime Alps and lakes, and catching cable cars and other Lonely Planet titles. For this book her highlight
trains to stunning vantage points. It’s only fitting that was discovering still more fine dining venues in the
she became a naturalised Swiss citizen while on the cobbled Marbella backstreets.
road for this guide. She lives with her husband, Denis,
and their sons in the Lake Geneva region. Sally tweets
@swissingaround.
Read more about Josephine at: https://auth.
lonelyplanet.com/profiles/josephinequintero
592

MARC DI DUCA PETER DRAGICEVICH
A well-established travel guide author, Marc has After a successful career in niche newspaper
explored many corners of Germany over the last 25 and magazine publishing, both in his native New
years but it’s to the quirky variety and friendliness Zealand and in Australia, Peter finally gave into Kiwi
of Bavaria that he returns most willingly. When not wanderlust, giving up staff jobs to chase his diverse
hiking Alpine valleys, eating snowballs in Rothenburg roots around much of Europe. Over the last decade
ob der Tauber or brewery hopping in Bamberg, he can he’s written literally dozens of guidebooks for Lonely
be found in Sandwich, Kent, where he lives with his Planet on an oddly disparate collection of countries,
wife, Tanya, and their two sons. all of which he’s come to love. He once again calls
Auckland, New Zealand his home – although his
current nomadic existence means he’s hardly ever
there.
Read more about Marc at: https://auth. Read more about Peter at https://auth.
lonelyplanet.com/profiles/Madidu lonelyplanet.com/profiles/peterdragicevich




















DUNCAN GARWOOD ANTHONY HAM
A Brit travel writer based in the Castelli Romani hills In 2001, Anthony fell in love with Madrid on his first
just outside Rome, Duncan has clocked up tens of visit to the city. Less than a year later, he arrived
thousands of kilometres driving through Italy and on a one-way ticket, with not a word of Spanish and
exploring its far-flung reaches. He’s co-author of not knowing a single person. After ten years living
the Rome city guide and has contributed to a host of in the city, he recently returned to Australia with his
Lonely Planet guidebooks including Italy, Piedmont, Spanish-born family, but he still adores his adopted
Sicily, Sardinia, and Naples and the Amalfi Coast. He country as much as the first day he arrived. When he’s
has also written on Italy for newspapers, websites and not writing for Lonely Planet, Anthony writes about
magazines. and photographs Spain, Scandinavia, the Middle East,
Australia and Africa for newspapers and magazines
around the world. See www.anthonyham.com.

Read more about Duncan at: https://auth. Read more about Anthony at: https://auth.
lonelyplanet.com/profiles/duncangarwood lonelyplanet.com/profiles/anthonyham
593

OLIVER BERRY STUART BUTLER
Oliver Berry has explored nearly every corner of Stuart’s first childhood encounters with Spain came
France for Lonely Planet, travelling all the way on a school trip to the far south of Spain and family
from the mountains of Corsica to the beaches of holidays along the north coast. These left lasting
Normandy. He has also photographed and written impressions and when he was older he spent every
about France for many newspapers, magazines summer on the Basque beaches, until one day he
and online publications. When not in France, he can found he was unable to tear himself away – he’s
usually be found wandering the beaches and clifftops been in the region ever since. His travels for Lonely
of his home county, Cornwall. His latest work is Planet, and a wide variety of magazines, have taken
published at oliverberry.com. him beyond Spain, to the shores of the Arctic, the
mountains of Asia and the savannahs of Africa. His
website is www.stuartbutlerjournalist.com.
Read more about Oliver at: https://auth. Read more about Stuart at: https://auth.
lonelyplanet.com/profiles/oliverberry lonelyplanet.com/profiles/stuartbutler




















KERRY CHRISTIANI FIONN DAVENPORT
Kerry's research for this guide included parts of Irish by birth and conviction, Fionn has been writing
Portugal and France. Her love affair with Portugal about his native country for more than two decades.
began as a child clambering along the cliffs of the He’s come and gone over the years, pulled abroad
Algarve. She later fell for the rest of the country – its to escape Dublin’s comfortable stasis and by the
captivating landscapes, super-friendly locals, fresh promise of adventure, but it has cemented his belief
seafood and photogenic light. She’s been travelling in that Ireland remains his favourite place to visit, if not
her beloved France since she first visited in her school always live in. These days, he has a weekly commute
days to brush up her français, which she went on to home to Dublin from Manchester, where he lives with
study to MA level. Kerry authors a number of Lonely his partner Laura and their car, Trevor. In Dublin he
Planet’s central and southern European titles and presents Inside Culture on RTE Radio 1 and writes
tweets @kerrychristiani. travel features for a host of publications, including
The Irish Times.
Read more about Kerry at: https://auth.
lonelyplanet.com/profiles/KerryChristiani
594

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

OUR STORY
A beat-up old car, a few
dollars in the pocket and a
sense of adventure. In 1972
OUR that’s all Tony and Maureen
Wheeler needed for the
WRITERS trip of a lifetime – across
Europe and Asia overland
to Australia. It took several
months, and at the end –
broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and
stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap.
Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.
Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne,
Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and
writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do
three things: inform, educate and amuse’.








BELINDA DIXON ISABEL ALBISTON
Only happy when her feet are suitably sandy, Belinda After growing up near Belfast, Isabel spent the next
has been (gleefully) travelling, researching and 15 years travelling and living all over the world. She
writing for Lonely Planet since 2006. It’s seen her has written for newspapers and magazines while
marvelling at Stonehenge at sunrise; scrambling based in London, Sydney and Buenos Aires; she
up Italian mountain paths; horse riding across has also worked on Lonely Planet titles such as
Donegal’s golden sands; kayaking down south Devon Borneo and Malaysia, Singapore & Brunei. But it’s in
rivers; gazing at Verona’s frescoes; fossil hunting on coming home to Ireland that she’s been able to fully
Dorset’s Jurassic Coast. A trained radio journalist, appreciate this beautiful corner of the world, from the
her innate nosiness means few likely-looking sleep bracing breezes of the Atlantic coast to the warmth of
spots go unexplored. See her VideoBlog posts at its cosy pubs.
https://belindadixon.com
Read more about Belinda at: https://auth. Read more about Isabel at: https://auth.
lonelyplanet.com/profiles/belindadixon lonelyplanet.com/profiles/isabelalbiston




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