€70-95; aW) This five-room B&B wins plaudits 4 Villa dei Papiri Agriturismo €
for its panoramic roof terrace overlooking the (%0931 72 13 21; www.villadeipapiri.it; Traversa
Valley of the Temples, and its convenient location Cozzo Pantano Testa Pisima 2/c; d €48-108,
at the entrance to the old town, five minutes’ walk 2-person ste €68-128, 4-person ste €98-158;
from the train and bus stations. Best of all is the paW) Immersed in an Eden of orange groves
generous advice about Agrigento offered by hosts and papyrus reeds 8km outside Syracuse, this
Sandra and Filippo (witness Filippo’s amazing lovely agriturismo sits next to the Fonte Ciana
Google Earth tour of nearby beaches!). spring immortalised in Ovid’s Metamorphosis.
Eight suites are housed in a beautifully converted
Modica a 19th-century farmhouse, with 16 double rooms
dotted around the lush grounds. Breakfast is an
4 Villa Quartarella Agriturismo € extra €7.50 and served in a baronial stone-walled
(%360 654829; www.quartarella.com; Contrada hall.
Quartarella Passo Cane 1; s €40, d €75-80, tr €85-
100, q €90-120; paWs) Spacious rooms, Catania d
welcoming hosts and ample breakfasts make this
converted villa in the countryside south of Modica 5 Trattoria di De Fiore Trattoria € ITALY 6 WONDERS OF ANCIENT SICILY
an appealing choice for anyone travelling by car. (%095 31 62 83; Via Coppola 24/26; meals €15-
Owners Francesco and Francesca are generous 25; h7pm-12.30am Mon, 1pm-12.30am Tue-Sun)
in sharing their love and encyclopedic knowledge For over 50 years, septuagenarian chef Rosanna
of local history, flora and fauna and can suggest a has been recreating her great-grandmother’s
multitude of driving itineraries.
recipes, including the best pasta alla Norma
you’ll taste anywhere in Sicily. Service can be
Noto b excruciatingly slow, but for patient souls this
is a rare chance to experience classic Catanian
5 Ristorante Il cooking from a bygone era. Don’t miss Rosanna’s
Cantuccio Modern Sicilian €€ trademark zeppoline (sugar-sprinkled ricotta-
(%0931 83 74 64; www.ristoranteilcantuccio. lemon fritters) at dessert time.
it; Via Cavour 12; meals €32-36; h12.30-2pm &
7.45-10.30pm Tue-Sun) Tucked into the courtyard Taormina e
of a former noble’s palace, this inviting restaurant
combines familiar Sicilian ingredients in inspired 5 Osteria Nero D’Avola Sicilian €€
ways. Perennial favourites such as the exquisite (%0942 62 88 74; www.osterianerodavola.
gnocchi al pesto del Cantuccio (ricotta-potato it; Piazza San Domenico 2b; meals €32-47;
dumplings with basil, parsley, mint, capers, h12.30-3pm & 7-11pm Tue-Sun Sep-Jun, 7pm-
toasted almonds and cherry tomatoes) are midnight Jul & Aug) Not only does affable owner
complemented by seasonally changing specials Turi Siligato fish, hunt and forage for his smart
CaptionCaptionCaptionCaption
such as lemon-stuffed bass with orange-fennel osteria, he’ll probably share anecdotes about the
salad or white-wine-stewed rabbit with caponata. day’s bounty and play a few tunes on the piano.
Here, seasonality, local producers and passion
Syracuse c underscore dishes like the signature cannolo
di limone Interdonato (thinly sliced Interdonato
5 Bistrot Bella Vita Italian €€ lemon with roe, tuna, tomato and chives).
(%0931 46 49 38; Via Gargallo 60; sweets €1.50, 4 Hotel Villa Belvedere Hotel €€€
meals €25; hcafe 7.30am-midnight, restaurant
noon-2.30pm & 7-10.45pm Tue-Sun) This casually (%0942 2 37 91; www.villabelvedere.it; Via Bagnoli
elegant cafe-restaurant is one of Ortygia’s rising Croce 79; s €70-280, d €80-380, ste €120-450;
stars. Stop by for good coffee (soy milk available) hMar–late-Nov; aiWs) Built in 1902,
and made-from-scratch cornetti, biscotti and Villa Belvedere was one of Taormina’s original
pastries (try the sour orange-and-almond tart). grand hotels. Well-positioned with fabulous views
Or book a table in the intimate back dining room, and luxuriant gardens, its highlights include a
where local, organic produce drives beautifully swimming pool complete with century-old palm.
textured, technically impressive dishes. Rooms offer neutral hues and understated style.
Parking is an extra €16 per day.
99
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
1107
3107
4107
6107
7107
Location Caption details to go here
#
ANILAH/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Italian Riviera 7
Curving west in a broad arc, backed by the Maritime Alps, the
Italian Riviera sweeps down from Genoa through ancient hamlets
and terraced olive groves to the French border at Ventimiglia.
TRIP HIGHLIGHTS
107 km 0 km 4 DAYS
214KM / 133 MILES
Alassio Genoa
The preferred holiday For big-city grit
spot of presidents and glamour GREAT FOR…
and artists
HG
l L BEST TIME TO GO
## #
# 1
#
Savona April, May and June
for flowers and hiking;
October for harvest.
## #
#
3
I ESSENTIAL
PHOTO
## #
4
#
Cascading terraces
# Cervo of exotic flowers at
Taggia Giardini Botanici
#
## #
# Hanbury.
6
m K BEST FINE
#
Ventimiglia
Finale Ligure K DINING
San Remo Provides a sandy Purple San Remo
Italy’s wannabe shore nestled prawns on the terrace
Monte Carlo between two rivers
of San Giorgio.
165 km 74 km
S Location Caption details to go herean Remo View over the town 101
TRIP HIGHLIGHT
7 Italian Riviera 1 Genoa
Like Dr Jekyll and Mr
Hyde, Genoa (Genova) is
a city with a split person-
The contrast between sun-washed, ality. At its centre, medi-
eval caruggi (alleyways)
sophisticated coastal towns and a deeply untangle outwards to the
rural, mountainous hinterland, full of heritage Porto Antico and teem
with hawkers, merchants
farms, olive oil producers and wineries, gave and office workers. Along
rise to the Riviera’s 19th-century fame, when Via Garibaldi and Via
XXV Aprile is another
European expatriates outnumbered locals. Genoa, one of Unesco-
They amused themselves in lavish botanical sponsored palaces, smart
shops and grand archi-
gardens, gambled in the casino of San Remo tectural gestures like
and dined in style in fine art-nouveau villas, Piazza de Ferrari with its
much as you will on this tour.
Bormida
Tanaro
# ] Cuneo # \ Mondovi / · # \
A6
Millesimo
# \ Varazze
Altare # \
# \
0 ¸ PIEDMONT LIGURIA *² #
#
# ] Savona
2
SS20
E80
Parco Naturale Monte *² # \ Porto Vado
A10
dell'Alta Valle Carmo
Pésio e Tanaro Garessio # \ (1389m) # \ Spotorno
# \ R # \ Noli
Limone
Piemonte RPunta Marguareis # \ Varigotti
# \ #
3
c (2651m) #
Colle di Monte / · Finale Ligure
SS1
Tende
Bello
0 ¸ (1871m) (1316m) Balestrino # \ Loano
\
#
D6204
R
Gorges de Bergue (2200m) Lavina # \ Albenga
Tende # \ Nava # \ *² # Ceriale
\
E80
FRANCE R Monte *²
A10
Saccarello
#
\
Passo di
# \ #
4
Triora
Pietravecchia 0¸ \ # c Teglia # Alassio Riviera Di Ponente
R
Monte
(1387m)
SS548
# Laigueglia
(2040m) H \
#
Pigna # \ p106 # Montalto # \ \ # Andora
\
Apricale 0¸ Ceriana Ligure # ] # / · Cervo Ligurian Sea
Baiardo
SS1
# \
# SP63
0 ¸ Monte R # \ Taggia *² # Imperia
5
\
E80
SP64
A10
0 ¸
Dolceacqua # \ Bignone # \ *²
F G SS20 (1299m) *² # ] # # \ Bussana
12
E80
6
Mortola # *² / · # Vecchia
A10
SS1
# \ # 7
# \ # ] San Remo
m K
20 km
Ventimiglia Bordighera # e 0 0 10 miles
monumental fountain, century frescoes at Cattedrale di Nostra
art nouveau Palazzo Cambi Cafe (www.cambi Signora Assunta (Piazza
Borsa (once the city’s cafe.com; Via Falamonica 9; Cattedrale; h7.30am-7.30pm)
stock exchange) and h10am-11pm). survived.
the neoclassical Teatro 5 p40, p107 But you’re not here
Carlo Felice (%010 538 12 for the architecture –
24; www.carlofelice.it; Passo The Drive » Exit Genoa you’re here for the food.
Eugenio Montale 4). westward, through a tangle of The covered market (Via
Join the well-dressed flyovers and tunnels to access Pietro Giuria; h7am-1.30pm
haute bourgeoisie the A10 for the first 56km drive Mon-Sat) is crammed with
enjoying high-profile art to Savona. Once out of the fruit-and-veg stalls and
suburbs the forested slopes
exhibits in the grand of the Maritime Alps rise to fish stands stacked with
Mannerist halls of the your right and sea views peep salt cod. Grigiomar (Via
Palazzo Ducale (www. out from the left as you duck Pietro Giuria 42r; h9am-6pm
palazzoducale.genova.it; through tunnels. Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat) salts ITALY 7 ITALIAN RIvIERA
Piazza Giacomo Matteotti its own local anchovies.
9; price varies by exhibition; Then there are the local
hhours vary), then retire 2 Savona amaretti biscuits, made
to sip spritz amid Ber- Don’t be put off by with bitter and sweet
nardo Strozzi’s 17th- Savona’s horrifying almonds, available at
industrial sprawl; the Pasticceria Besio (www.
Savonesi were a powerful amarettibesio.com; Via
maritime people and the Sormano 16r; h2.30-7pm
158km to / · / · town centre is unexpect- Mon, 9am-7pm Tue-Sat), and
A26
F G A26 # \ Voltri # \/ · edly graceful. Standing the farinata di grano
2
‚
A10
# \/·
Pegli / ·
Voltri
A10
# \
# ^
# 1
SS1
# \ Pegli /· SS1 # near the port are three (wheat-flour pancakes)
^
#
# \ Arenzano # of the many medieval at Vino e Farinata (Via Pia
# 1
l L
Genoa
Varazze Arenzano Genoa l L 15; meals €20; h11am-10pm
# \ towers that once stud-
Varazze ded the cityscape. As Tue-Sat).
Genoa’s greatest rival The Drive » Rejoin the A10 and
the town was savagely leave the industrial chimneys
sacked in 1528, the castle of Savona behind you. For the
Golfo di
Golfo di dismantled and most of first 13km the A10 continues
Genova
Genova
the population slaugh- with views of the sea, then at
tered, but somehow the Spotorno it ducks inland for the
Fortezza del Priamàr final 15km to the Finale Ligure
exit. Descend steeply for 3km to
(Piazza Priamar) and the the Finale hamlets on the coast.
LINK
YOUR
TRIP
2 The Graceful c Riviera Crossing
Italian Lakes
Roll right on into
Heading north from Genoa France for more beaches,
you’re soon in the land glam cities and glitering
of refreshing lakes and seascapes
mountains.
103
hawk seasonal delicacies
and vintages.
TRIP HIGHLIGHT
On Thursday it’s worth RGLINSKY/GETTY IMAGES ©
3 Finale Ligure driving 9km up the coast
Finale Ligure comprises to picturesque Noli for
several seaside districts. the weekly outdoor mar-
The marina is narrow ket on Corso d’Italia.
and charming, spreading 54 p107
along the sandy shore
between two small rivers, The Drive » Once again take
the Porra and the Sciusa. the high road away from the
East of the Sciusa is coast and follow the A10 for a
Finale Ligure Pia, where further 35km to Alassio. Near
Albenga you’ll cross the river
you’ll find Alimentari Centa and the broad valley
Magnone (Via Moletti 17), where dozens of hothouses dot
which stocks excellent the landscape.
extra virgin olive oils
from local growers. TRIP HIGHLIGHT
ITALY 7 ITALIAN RIvIERA
Nearby the Benedic-
tine abbey houses the 4 Alassio
Azienda Agricola Apiario Less than 100km from
Benedettino (Via Santuario the French border, Alas-
59; h9am-12.30pm Mon-Sat), sio’s popularity among
where you can buy honey, the 18th- and 19th-
grappa and organic century jet set has left it
beauty products. with an elegant colonial
At the other end of character. Its pastel-hued
town, Finalborgo is the villas range around a
old medieval centre. broad, sandy beach, in 1787 and Edward
Each year in March, which stretches all the Elgar composed In the
Finalborgo’s cloisters way to Laigueglia (4km
are home to the Salone to the south). American South inspired by his
stay in 1904. Il Muretto,
dell’Agroalimentare Lig- president Thomas Jef- a ceramic-covered wall,
ure, where local farmers ferson holidayed here records the names of 550
celebrities who’ve passed
through.
SAN GIORGIO Follow the local lead
and promenade along
Cult restaurant San Giorgio (%0183 40 01 75; www. Via XX Settembre or the
ristorantesangiorgio.net; Via A Volta 19, Cervo; meals €40-60; unspoilt waterfront. Take
h12.30-2pm & 7.30-10pm Wed-Mon, closed Jan) has been coffee at Antico Caffè
quietly wowing gourmets with its authentic Ligurian Pasticceria Balzola (www.
cooking since the 1950s when mother-and-son balzola1902.com; Piazza
team Caterina and Alessandro opened the doors of Matteotti 26; h9am-midnight
their home in the borgo (medieval town) of Cervo Tue-Sun) and enjoy gelato
Alta. Dine out on the bougainvillea-draped terrace in on the beach beneath a
summer, or in intimate dining rooms cluttered with stripy umbrella.
family silverware and antiques in winter. Below the
restaurant, in an old oil mill, is the less formal wine 4 p107
bar and deli San Giorgino.
104
Genoa Fountain in the Piazza de Ferrari
The Drive » If you have Dante, with its arcaded West of Oneglia is
time take the scenic coast walkways, is a pleasant pirate haven Porto Mau-
road, SS1 (Via Roma), from place to grab a coffee. rizio, perched on a rocky
Alassio through Laigueglia and This is also where the spur that overlooks a
Marina di Andora to Imperia. great olive-oil dynasties yacht-filled harbour.
It is a shorter and more scenic made their name. Visit
jaunt when traffic is light. The The Drive » Rejoining the A10
alternative, when traffic is heavy, the Museo dell’Olio (www. at Imperia, the landscape begins
is to head back to the A10. museodellolivo.com; Via to change. The olive terraces
Garessio 13; adult/reduced are dense, spear-like cypresses
€5/2.50; h9am-12.30pm & and umbrella pines shade
5 Imperia 3-6.30pm Mon-Sat), housed the hillsides, and the fragrant
maquis (Mediterranean scrub)
Imperia consists of two in a lovely art-nouveau is prolific. Loop inland around
small seaside towns, mansion belonging to Taggia and then descend slowly
Oneglia and Porto Maur- the heritage Fratelli Carli into San Remo.
izio, on either side of the factory. The museum is
Impero river. surprisingly extensive TRIP HIGHLIGHT
Oneglia, birthplace and details the history
of Admiral Doria, the of the Ligurian industry 6 San Remo
Genoese Republic’s from the 2nd century BC. San Remo, Italy’s wan-
greatest naval hero, is Buy quality oil here or nabe Monte Carlo, is a
the less attractive of the anywhere in town. sun-dappled Mediterra-
two, although Piazza nean resort with a grand
105
7 ventimiglia
DETOUR:
L’ENTROTERRA Despite its enviable posi-
tion between the glitter
Start: 7 Ventimiglia of San Remo and the
The designation ‘Riviera’ omits the pleated, Côte d’Azur, Ventimiglia
mountainous interior – l’entroterra – that makes is a soulful but disorderly
up nine-tenths of Liguria. Harried by invasions, border town, its Roman
coast-dwellers took to these vertical landscapes past still evident in its
over a thousand years ago, hewing their perched bridges, amphitheatre
villages from the rock face of the Maritime Alps. You’ll and ruined baths. Now
want to set aside two extra days to drive the coiling it’s the huge Friday mar-
roads that rise up from Ventimiglia to Dolceacqua, ket (h8am-3pm Fri) that
Apricale and Pigna. If you do make the effort, book draws the crowds.
into gorgeous boutique hotel Apricus Locanda If you can’t find a sou-
(%339 6008622; www.apricuslocanda.com; Via IV Novembre venir here then consider
5, Apricale; s/d €95/105; ps); it’s worth it for the one of the prized artisa-
breakfast and see-forever panoramas. nal honeys produced by
ITALY 7 ITALIAN RIvIERA
Marco Ballestra (%0184
35 16 72; www.ilmieledel
belle-époque casino (www. Beyond the waterfront, brichetto.it; Via Girolamo Rossi
casinosanremo.it; Corso de- San Remo hides a little- 5), which has hives in
gli Inglesi) and lashings of visited old town, a laby- the hills above the Valle
Riviera-style grandeur. rinth of twisting lanes Roya. There are over a
During the mid- that cascade down the dozen different types.
19th century the city Ligurian hillside. Curling To end the tour head
became a magnet for around the base is the over to the pretty west-
European exiles such as Italian Cycling Riviera, a ern suburb of Ponte San
Czar Nicolas of Russia, path that tracks the coast Ludovico to the Giardini
who favoured the town’s as far as Imperia. For Botanici Hanbury (www.
balmy winters. They bike hire, enquire at the giardinihanbury.com; Corso
built an onion-domed tourist office (www.visit Montecarlo 43; adult/reduced
Russian Orthodox rivieradeifiori.it; Largo Nuvoloni €9/7.50; h9.30am-6pm),
church (Via Nuvoloni 2; €1; 1; h9am-7pm Mon-Sat, 9am- the 18-hectare estate of
h9.30am-noon & 3-6pm) 1pm Sun; c). English businessman
reminiscent of Moscow’s Sir Thomas Hanbury;
St Basil’s Cathedral, 54 p107 he planted it with an
which still turns heads The Drive » For the final 17km extravagant 5800 bo-
down by the seafront. stretch to Ventimiglia take the tanical species from five
Swedish inventor Alfred SS1 coastal road, which hugs continents.
Nobel also maintained the base of the mountains 5 p107
a villa here, the Villa and offers uninterrupted sea
Nobel (Corso Felice Cavallotti views. In summer and at Easter,
however, when traffic is heavy,
112; adult/reduced €5.50/4; your best bet is the A10.
h10am-12.30pm Tue-Thu,
10am-12.30pm & 5-8pm
Fri-Sun Jun-Sep), which
now houses a museum
dedicated to him.
106
Eating & Sleeping
Genoa 1 Alassio 4
5 Il Marin Seafood €€€ 4 Villa della
(Eataly Genova; %010 869 87 22; www.eataly. Pergola Boutique Hotel €€€
net; Porto Antico; meals €50; hnoon-3pm & (%0182 64 61 30; www.villadellapergola.com;
7-10.30pm) Eating by the water often means a Via Privata Montagu 9/1; d from €315; ps)
compromise in quality, but Eataly’s 3rd-floor Sitting in a tropical garden that rivals the
fine-dining space delivers both panoramic port ITALY
views and Genoa’s most innovative seafood home of eminent Victorian, General McMurdo.
menu. Rustic wooden tables, Renzo Piano– He bought the plot in 1875 and designed the
blessed furniture and an open kitchen make villa in Anglo-Indian style with large airy rooms,
for an easy, relaxed glamour, while dishes use broad verandahs and cascading terraces with
unusual Mediterranean-sourced produce and peerless sea views.
look gorgeous on the plate.
famous Villa Hanbury, Villa della Pergola was the 7 ITALIAN RIvIERA
San Remo 6
Finale Ligure 3
5 Ristorante Urbicia Vivas Ligurian €€
5 Osteria ai Cuattru Canti Osteria € (%0184 57 55 66; Piazza Dolori 5; meals €30;
(Via Torcelli 22; set menus €20; hnoon-2pm h10.30am-midnight) Basking in a quiet
& 8-10pm Tue-Sun) Simple and good Ligurian medieval square in San Remo’s remarkable old
specialities are cooked up at this rustic place in town, Urbicia is slavishly faithful to old Ligurian
Finalborgo’s historic centre. recipes with a strong bias towards seafood.
There’s a €12 lunch deal and Friday night is
4 Val Ponce Agriturismo € risotto night.
(%329 3154169; www.valleponci.it; Val Ponci
22, Localita Verzi; d/apt €85/165) Only 4km 4 Hotel Liberty Hotel €
from the beach, Val Ponce feels deliciously wild, (%0184 50 99 52; www.hotellibertysanremo.
tucked away in a rugged Ligurian valley. Horses com; Rondò Garibaldi 2; s €55, d €85-100;
graze, grapevines bud and the restaurant turns pa) A 10-room hotel is set in a Liberty-style
out fresh Ligurian dishes, with vegetables villa off a small traffic circle about 100m from
and herbs from a kitchen garden. On weekend the train station. It’s quiet, clean and run by
evenings and Sunday lunch, there’s live music helpful young owners.
or classic vinyl. Rooms are simple but show the
keen eye of the Milanese escapee owners.
4 Hotel Florenz Hotel €€ ventimiglia 7
(%019 69 56 67; www.hotelflorenz.it; Via Celesia 5 Pasta & Basta Ligurian €
1; s/d €86/132; hclosed Nov & Feb; pis) (%0184 23 08 78; www.pastaebastaventimiglia.
This rambling 18th-century former convent just com; Via Marconi 20; meals €20; hnoon-3pm
outside Finalborgo’s village walls (800m from & 7-10pm Tue-Sun, lunch only Mon) Duck into
the sea) is simple and homey but one of the the underpass near the seafront on the border
area’s most atmospheric spots to sleep. side of town to the perpetually redeveloping
port area. Various house-made fresh pasta can
be mixed and matched with a large menu of
sauces, including a good pesto or salsa di noci
(walnut purée), and washed down with a carafe
of pale and refreshing Pigato, a local white.
107
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
NEED TO Climate
Dry climate
KNOW Warm to hot summer, mild winter
Warm to hot summer, cold winter
Cold climate
# Mild summer, cold winter
Milan Venice
#
CURRENCY GO Dec–Mar (skiing), GO Feb–Mar &
Jan & Sep
Euro (€) Sep–Nov
LANGUAGE
Italian Rome
GO Apr–May,
Jul & Nov–Dec
VISAS #
Generally not required for Naples #
stays of up to 90 days (or GO May–Jun
& Sep
at all for EU nationals);
some nationalities need a
Schengen visa.
Palermo
GO Sep–Oct
FUEL #
You’ll find filling stations
on autostradas and major
roads. Reckon on €1.49 for a
litre of unleaded petrol and
€1.33 for diesel.
When to Go
HIRE CARS High Season (Jul–Aug)
Avis (www.avis.com) » Queues at big sights and on the road, especially in August.
Europcar (www.europcar. » Prices also rocket for Christmas, New Year and Easter.
com)
» Late December to March is high season in the Alps and
Hertz (www.hertz.it) Dolomites.
Maggiore (www.maggiore.it)
Shoulder (Apr–Jun & Sep–Oct)
IMPORTANT NUMBERS » Good deals on accommodation, especially in the south.
Ambulance (%118) » Spring is best for festivals, flowers and local produce.
Emergency (%112) » Autumn provides warm weather and the grape harvest.
Police (%113) Low Season (Nov–Mar)
Roadside Assistance » Prices up to 30% less than in high season.
(%803 116; %800 116 » Many sights and hotels closed in coastal areas.
800 from a foreign mobile » A good period for cultural events in large cities.
phone)
108
B&Bs Rooms in restored Capodichino Airport
Daily Costs farmhouses, city townhouses or (Naples)
Budget: Less than €100 seaside bungalows. Rental cars Contact agencies
» Dorm bed: €15–30 Agriturismi Farmstays range via an intercom in the Arrivals
» Double room in a budget hotel: from working farms to luxury hall.
€50–110 rural retreats. Buses Run every 20 minutes
Room Tax A nightly occupancy
» Pizza or pasta: €6–12 from 6am to 11.40pm.
tax is charged on top of room
Midrange: €100–250 rates. Taxis Set fare €16 to €23; 30
» Double room in a hotel: Price indicators for a double minutes.
€110–200 room with private bathroom
» Local restaurant dinner: (breakfast included) in high Mobile Phones (Cell
€25–50 season: Phones)
» Admission to museum: €4–15 € less than €110 Local SIM cards can be used in
Top End: More than €€ €110–200 European, Australian and some
unlocked US phones. Other
€250 €€€ more than €200 phones must be set to roaming.
» Double room in a four- or five-
star hotel: €200–450 Internet Access
» Top restaurant dinner: Arriving in Italy
€50–150 Leonardo da Vinci Free wi-fi is available in most
hotels, B&Bs, pensioni etc and in
» Opera ticket: €40–200 (Fiumicino) Airport many bars and cafes.
(Rome)
Eating Rental cars Agencies are Money
located near the multilevel car
Restaurants (Ristoranti) park. ATMs at every airport, most train
stations and widely available in
Formal service and refined Trains & buses Run every towns and cities. Credit cards
dishes, with prices to match.
30 minutes from 6.23am to accepted in most hotels and
Trattorias Informal, often 11.23pm. restaurants.
family-run, places with classic
regional cooking. Night buses Departures at
1.15am, 2.15am, 3.30am and Tipping
Vegetarians Most places offer 5am.
good vegetable starters and side Taxis Set fare to centre €48; 45 Not obligatory but round up the
dishes. minutes. bill in pizzerias and trattorias;
Price indicators for a two-course 10% is normal in upmarket
meal with a glass of house wine Malpensa Airport restaurants.
and coperto (cover charge). (Milan)
Rental cars Agencies in the Useful Websites
€ less than €25 Arrivals sections of Terminals Italia (www.italia.it)
€€ €25–45 1 and 2. Comprehensive tourism site.
€€€ more than €45 Trains & buses Run every Michelin (www.viamichelin.it)
30 minutes from 5.45am to A useful route planner.
11.30pm. Agriturismi (www.agriturismi.
Night buses Limited services it) Guide to farmstays.
Sleeping from 12.15am to 5am. Lonely Planet (www.
Hotels From luxury boutique Taxis Set fare €90; 50 minutes. lonelyplanet.com/italy)
palaces to modest family-run Destination lowdown.
pensioni (small hotels).
109
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Language
Italian sounds can all be found in English. If you read our coloured pronunciation guides as if
they were English, you’ll be understood. Note that ai is pronounced as in ‘aisle’, ay as in ‘say’,
ow as in ‘how’, dz as the ‘ds’ in ‘lids’, and that r is strong and rolled. If the consonant is written
as a double letter, it’s pronounced a little stronger, eg sonno son·no (sleep) versus sono so·no
(I am). The stressed syllables are indicated with italics.
How much is it per night/person?
BASICS Quanto costa per kwan·to kos·ta per
Hello. Buongiorno. bwon·jor·no una notte/persona? oo·na no·te/per·so·na
Goodbye. Arrivederci. a·ree·ve·der·chee
Yes./No. Sì./No. see/no DIRECTIONS
Excuse me. Mi scusi. mee skoo·zee Where’s …?
Sorry. Mi dispiace. mee dees·pya·che Dov’è …? do·ve …
Please. Per favore. per fa·vo·re Can you show me (on the map)?
Thank you. Grazie. gra·tsye Può mostrarmi pwo mos·trar·mee
(soo·la pyan·ta)
(sulla pianta)?
You’re welcome.
Prego. pre·go EATING & DRINKING
Do you speak English?
Parli inglese? par·lee een·gle·ze What would you recommend?
ko·za mee kon·see·lya
Cosa mi consiglia?
I don’t understand.
Non capisco. non ka·pee·sko I’d like …, please. vo·ray … per fa·vo·re
Vorrei …, per favore.
How much is this?
Quanto costa questo? kwan·to kos·ta kwe·sto I don’t eat (meat).
Non mangio (carne). non man·jo (kar·ne)
Please bring the bill.
ACCOMMODATION Mi porta il conto, mee por·ta eel kon·to
per fa·vo·re
per favore?
Do you have a room?
Avete una camera? a·ve·te oo·na ka·me·ra
EMERGENCIES
Help!
Want More? Aiuto! a·yoo·to
I’m lost.
Mi sono perso/a. (m/f) mee so·no per·so/a
For in-depth language information
and handy phrases, check out Lonely I’m ill.
Planet’s Italian Phrasebook. You’ll Mi sento male. mee sen·to ma·le
find it at shop.lonelyplanet.com, or Call the police!
you can buy Lonely Planet’s iPhone Chiami la polizia! kya·mee la po·lee·tsee·a
phrasebooks at the Apple App Store. Call a doctor!
Chiami un medico! kya·mee oon me·dee·ko
110
windscreen
parabrezza petrol
pa·ra·bre·dza benzina
ben·dzee·na
battery
batteria
ba·te·ree·a
engine
motore
mo·to·re
headlight tyre
fanale gomma
fa·na·le go·ma
Does that include mileage?
ON THE ROAD E’ compreso il e kom·pre·so eel
I’d like to Vorrei vo·ray chilometraggio? kee·lo·me·tra·jo
hire a/an ... noleggiare ... no·le·ja·re ... What’s the city/country speed limit?
4WD un fuoristrada oon fwo·ree·stra·da Qual’è il limite di kwa·le eel lee·mee·te dee
velocità in
ve·lo·chee·ta een
automatic/ una macchina oo·na ma·kee·na città/campagna? chee·ta/kam·pa·nya
manual automatica/ ow·to·ma·tee·ka/
manuale ma·noo·a·le Is this the road to (Venice)?
motorbike una moto oo·na mo·to Questa strada porta kwe·sta stra·da por·ta
a (ve·ne·tsya)
a (Venezia)?
(How long) Can I park here?
How much Quanto kwan·to (Per quanto tempo) (per kwan·to tem·po)
is it …? costa ...? kos·ta ... Posso parcheggiare qui? po·so par·ke·ja·re kwee
daily al giorno al jor·no Where’s a service station?
weekly alla settimana a·la se·tee·ma·na Dov’è una stazione do·ve oo·na sta·tsyo·ne
di servizio? dee ser·vee·tsyo
Does that include insurance?
E’ compresa e kom·pre·sa Please fill it up.
l’assicurazione? la·see·koo·ra·tsyo·ne Il pieno, per favore. eel pye·no per fa·vo·re
I’d like (30) litres.
Vorrei (trenta) litri. vo·ray (tren·ta) lee·tree
Signs Please check the oil/water.
Può controllare l’olio/
pwo kon·tro·la·re lo·lyo/
Alt Stop l’acqua, per favore? la·kwa per fa·vo·re
Dare la Precedenza Give Way I need a mechanic. o bee·zo·nyo dee oon
Ho bisogno di un
Deviazione Detour meccanico. me·ka·nee·ko
Divieto di Accesso No Entry The car/motorbike has broken down.
Entrata Entrance La macchina/moto si la ma·kee·na/mo·to see
Pedaggio Toll è guastata. e gwas·ta·ta
Senso Unico One Way I had an accident. o a·voo·to oon
Ho avuto un
Uscita Exit incidente. een·chee·den·te
111
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Largo di Torre Argentina
Start in Largo di Torre Argentina, a
busy square easily reached by bus. In its
sunken central area, the Republican-era
STRETCH templesdate to between the 2nd and 4th
centuries BC. On the piazza’s western
YOUR LEGS flank, Teatro Argentina, Rome’s premier
theatre, stands near the spot where
Julius Caesar was assassinated in 44 BC.
ROME The Walk » From the square, head east along
Corso Vittorio Emanuele II to Piazza del Gesù.
Chiesa del Gesù
The landmark Chiesa del Gesù (www.
chiesadelgesu.org; Piazza del Gesù; h7am-
12.30pm & 4-7.45pm, St Ignatius rooms 4-6pm
Start/Finish: Largo di Torre Mon-Sat, 10am-noon Sun) is Rome’s most im-
Argentina portant Jesuit church. Behind its impos-
ing facade is an awe-inspiring baroque
Distance: 1.7km interior. Headline works include the
swirling vault fresco by Il Baciccia and
Duration: Three hours Andrea del Pozzo’s opulent tomb for
Ignatius Loyola, the Jesuits’ founder.
The Walk » Cross Corso Vittorio Emanuele II
and follow Via del Gesù north. Then turn left onto
The best way to explore Rome’s Via Santa Caterina da Siena.
historic centre, much of which is Basilica di Santa Maria Sopra
closed to unauthorised traffic, is Minerva
on foot. Park near Stazione Termini, Trumpeted by Bernini’s much-loved
Elefantino statue, this basilica (www.
then head into the centre by bus. As santamariasopraminerva.it; Piazza della Minerva
you walk you’ll discover picturesque 42; h7.30am-7pm Mon-Fri, 7.30am-12.30pm &
3.30-7pm Sat, 8am-12.30pm & 3.30-7pm Sun) is
cobbled lanes, showboating piazzas, Rome’s only Gothic church. However, lit-
basilicas and ancient ruins. tle remains of the original 13th-century
structure and these days the main draw-
card is a minor Michelangelo sculpture
and its colourful, art-rich interior.
The Walk » From the basilica, it’s an easy stroll
up Via della Minerva to Piazza della Rotonda.
Pantheon
A remarkable 2000-year-old temple, now
church, the Pantheon (www.pantheon
roma.com; Piazza della Rotonda; h8.30am-
7.30pm Mon-Sat, 9am-6pm Sun) is the best
Take this walk on Trips preserved of Rome’s ancient monuments.
Built by Hadrian over Marcus Agrippa’s
12 earlier 27 BC temple, it has stood since
around AD 125. t’s an exhilarating
112
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Sant'Agnese Piazza 000 Dogana Vecchia 0000
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in Agone Navona 000 Pantheon Piazza della 0000
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Cancelleria
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Via del Pellegrino
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Largo di Torre
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0000
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000
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J
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Via dei Cappellari
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%
000
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0000
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Gallo
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0000000
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Ca
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0000000
Via Celsa
Piazza 0000000 0000 Via di Torre Argentina 000000
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de' Fiori
0000000
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Farnese 0000 000 000 000 de Ginnasi Via del'Arco 000000 #
0000000
000
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¤
Via d'Aracoeli
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experience to pass through its vast markets, while at night it morphs into
bronze doors and gaze up at the largest a raucous open-air pub. Amidst the
unreinforced concrete dome ever built. chaos look out for a sinister statue of
The Walk » Follow the signs to Piazza Navona, a hooded monk. This is the heretic
stopping en route for a quick coffee at Caffè philosopher Giordano Bruno who was
Sant’Eustachio (Piazza Sant’Eustachio 82; burned at the stake here in 1600.
h8.30am-1am Sun-Thu, to 1.30am Fri, to 2am Sat). The Walk » Head up to Piazza Farnese, a matter
Piazza Navona of metres away.
With its ornate fountains, baroque Palazzo Farnese
palazzi (mansions) and colourful cast The formidable Palazzo Farnese
of street artists, hawkers and tour- (www.inventerrome.com; Piazza Farnese; €9;
ists, Piazza Navona is central Rome’s hguided tours 3pm, 4pm & 5pm Mon, Wed &
elegant showpiece square. Its grand Fri) is one of Rome’s finest Renaissance
centrepiece is Bernini’s Fontana dei buildings. Now home to the French
Quattro Fiumi, an ornate, showy foun- Embassy, it can only be visited on a
tain featuring personifications of the guided tour (for which you need to
rivers Nile, Ganges, Danube and Plate. pre-book; see the website for details),
The Walk » Exit the piazza to the south, cross but it’s worth it to marvel at a series of
Corso Vittorio Emanuele II and continue up Via frescoes by Annibale Carracci that are
dei Baullari. said by some to rival Michelangelo’s in
Campo de’ Fiori the Sistine Chapel.
Noisy, colourful Campo de’ Fiori is The Walk » To get back to Largo di Torre
Argentina, double back to Corso Vittorio Emanuele
a major focus of Roman life: by day II and head right.
it hosts one of Rome’s best-known
113
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Galleria dell’Accademia
Before heading into the heart of the
historic centre, take time to salute Flor-
ence’s fabled poster boy. Michelangelo’s
STRETCH David (1504), arguably the most famous
sculpture in the Western world, stands
YOUR LEGS in all his naked glory in the Galleria
dell’Accademia (www.firenzemusei.it; Via
Ricasoli 60; adult/reduced €8/4, incl temporary
FLORENCE exhibition €12.50/6.25; h8.15am-6.50pm
Tue-Sun). He originally guarded Palazzo
Vecchio but was moved here in 1873.
The Walk » From the gallery, head south along
Via Ricasoli, past the Carabé gelateria, down to Via
de’ Pucci. Turn right, skirting past Palazzo Pucci,
as you continue on to Piazza San Lorenzo.
Start/Finish: Galleria
dell’Accademia Basilica di San Lorenzo
A fine example of Renaissance archi-
Distance: 2.5km tecture, the Basilica di San Lorenzo
(Piazza San Lorenzo; €5, incl Biblioteca Medicea
Duration: One day Laurenziana €7.50; h10am-5.30pm Mon-Sat,
plus 1.30-5pm Sun winter) is best known for
its Sagrestia Vecchia (Old Sacristy).
Around the corner, at the rear of the
To get the best out of Florence basilica, the Museo delle Cappelle
Medicee (Medici Chapels; www.firenzemusei.
(Firenze), park your car at Piazza it; Piazza Madonna degli Aldobrandini 6; adult/
della Libertà, and head into the reduced €6/3; h8.15am-1.50pm, closed 2nd &
4th Sun & 1st, 3rd & 5th Mon of month) has some
city’s historic centre on foot. This exquisite Michelangelo sculptures.
tour provides a great introduction The Walk » From Piazza Madonna degli
to the city, passing through its Aldobrandini, head down Via de’ Conti and its
continuation Via F Zanetti to Via de’ Cerretani. Hang
headlining piazzas, basilicas and a left and soon you’ll see Piazza del Duomo ahead.
galleries. Duomo
Florence’s 14th-century Duomo (www.
operaduomo.firenze.it; Piazza del Duomo;
h10am-5pm Mon-Wed & Fri, to 4pm Thu, to
4.45pm Sat, 1.30-4.45pm Sun) is the city’s
most iconic landmark with its pink,
white and green marble facade and
red-tiled dome (adult/reduced incl cupola,
baptistry, campanile, crypt & museum €15/3;
h8.30am-7pm Mon-Fri, to 5.40pm Sat).
Nearby, you can climb the campanile
Take this walk on Trips (h8.30am-7.30pm) and admire the bas-
reliefs on the 11th-century Battistero
123 (Baptistry; h11.15am-7pm Mon-Sat, 8.30am-
2pm Sun & 1st Sat of month).
114
#
The Walk » It’s a straightforward 400m or so .
200 m
down Via dei Calzaiuoli to Piazza della Signoria. # e 0 0 0.1 miles
Piazza della Signoria Indipendenza
Piazza della
This lovely cafe-lined piazza is over-
looked by the Torre d’Arnolfo, the high
point of Palazzo Vecchio (www.musefirenze
.it; museum adult/reduced €10/8, tower €10/8,
Piazza
museum & tower €14/12, guided tour €4; Via San Gallo San Marco ›
#
hmuseum 9am-11pm Fri-Wed, to 2pm Thu, tower J
9am-9pm Fri-Wed, to 2pm Thu, shorter hours %
winter), Florence’s medieval City Hall. It Galleria
still houses the mayor’s office but you # 000
000
000
Piazza
can visit its lavish apartments. Madonna Via de' Ginori dell'Accademia 000
000
000
The Walk » To get to the Galleria degli Uffizi Via dell'Ariento degli 000
takes a matter of seconds, although we can’t Aldobrandini Via Ricasoli
vouch for how long it’ll take to get inside. The 0000000000
0000000000
de' Nelli
0000000000
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gallery is just off the piazza’s southeastern corner, Via del Canto Palazzo
0000000000
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in a grey porticoed palazzo (mansion). 000 Pucci
000
000000000000 #
000000000000
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000
000000000000
000000000000
000
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Galleria degli Uffizi 000 Lorenzo Piazza Via de' Pucci
San
Vi
The Uffizi (www.uffizi.beniculturali.it; Piazzale 00a de'Conti Via Lorenzo
degli Uffizi 6; adult/reduced €8/4, incl temporary F Zanetti 00000000000
00000000000
00000000000
exhibition €12.50/6.25; h8.15am-6.50pm Tue- 00000 Piazza
00000000000
00000
00000
00000000000
00000
Sun) boasts one of Italy’s greatest art col- Via de' Cerretani 00000000000
00000000000
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del
#
00000000000
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lections, bequeathed to Florence in 1743 00000 Duomo Duomo
00000
00000000000
00000000000
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000
by the Medici family on condition that 00000000000
000
000
000
it never leave the city. The highlight is 000
000
000
Via dei Calzaiuoli
the stash of Renaissance art, including 00000 00 SANTA
CROCE
00000
00
Botticelli’s La nascita di Venere (Birth 00 00000 00
00
00000
00000
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00
of Venus), Leonardo da Vinci’s Annun- 00 00000 000
000
00
00000
000
00
00
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ciazione (Annunciation) and Michelan- 00 00000 000
00
00
00
gelo’s Tondo doni (Holy Family). 00 00
00
00
00
The Walk » Pick up Via Lambertesca, over the 00
way from the gallery entrance, and follow it to Via 0000000
Piazza della
0000000
# Signor
0000000ia
Por Santa Maria. Go left and it’s a short hop to 0000000
0000000
000 0000000
the river. 000 0000000
000 0000000
000 0000000
000 0000000
000 0000000
Ponte Vecchio Via Por Santa Maria Via Lambertesca Galleria Degli Uffizi
000
000
(Uffizi Gallery)
000
Florence’s celebrated bridge has twin- 000 0000
000
0000
#
0000
kled with the wares of jewellers since 0000
0000
the 16th century when Ferdinando I de’ # Ponte Piazzale degli Uffizi
Medici ordered them to replace the the Vecchio
town butchers, who were wont to toss Lungarno Generale Diaz
›
#
malodorous unwanted leftovers into the Arno
river. The bridge as it stands was built
in 1345 and was the only one in Florence
Ponte alle
saved from destruction by the retreating Lungarno Torrigiani
Germans in 1944. Via de' Bardi Grazie
The Walk » To get back to the Galleria
dell’Accademia, pick up bus C1 from Lungarno
Generale Diaz and head up to Piazza San Marco.
Giardino di Boboli
(Boboli Gardens)
Giardino Bardini
000000000 (Bardini Gardens)
000000000
000000000
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116
France
ICONIC MONUMENTS, FABULOUS FOOD,
WORLD-CLASS WINES – there are so many
reasons to plan your very own French voyage.
Whether you’re planning on cruising the
corniches of the French Riviera, getting lost
among the snowcapped mountains or tasting
your way around Champagne’s hallowed
vineyards, this is a nation that’s made for road
trips and full of unforgettable routes that will
plunge you straight into France’s heart and
soul.
There’s a trip for everyone here: family
travellers, history buffs, culinary connoisseurs
and outdoors adventurers.
Buckle up, and bon voyage – you’re in for quite
a ride.
Champagne region Phare de Verzenay
SYLVAIN SONNET/GETTY IMAGES ©
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\ # Carcassonne Marseille : #^ 10
F G F G AUDE \ # Narbonne : Toulon
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#
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: : : : :: : : : : ANDORRA LA :
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# ] : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : :
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MISS
Longues-sur-Mer
See where parts of the
PHILIPPE COHAT/GETTY IMAGES ©
famous D-Day film, The
Longest Day (1962),
was filmed on Trip 9
Lac de Gaube
One of the Pyrenees’
finest trails leads to the
glittering Lac de Gaube.
Catch the cable car to
the trail on Trip b
Fenocchio
The Pyrenees Lac de Gaube Enjoy some original
flavours at this iconic
Essential France 21 Days ice-cream parlour on
8 This grand tour visits some of France’s most Trip c
unmissable sights. (p121)
D-Day’s Beaches 3 Days Château de
9 Follow the course of the WWII invasion on Chambord
Normandy’s beaches. (p133)
The Loire’s star
Atlantic to Med 10 Days expression of
a The ultimate south-of-France trip, linking two Renaissance
very different seas. (p143) architecture, capped
by its world-famous
The Pyrenees 7 Days double-helix staircase.
b Explore the majestic mountain landscape, easily Discover it on Trip e
the equal of the Alps. (p153)
Riviera Crossing 4 Days
c The best beaches, cities, villages and nature along
the Med coast. (p163)
Champage Taster 3 Days
d Taste your way around the cellars of Champagne
on this fizz-fuelled trip. (p175)
Châteaux of the Loire 5 Days
e France’s greatest châteaux, from medieval towers
to royal palaces. (p185)
119
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
a
b
c
d
1130
3130
5130
7130
9131
c131
Location Caption details to go here
DAVIDEVISON / GETTY IMAGES ©
Essential France 8
City to city, coast to coast, this grand tour visits some of France’s
most unmissable sights. There’s some epic driving involved, but
this is one trip you won’t forget in a hurry.
TRIP HIGHLIGHTS
21 DAYS
335 km 3060KM /
Bayeux 1902 MILES
Check out the world's
# Caen lL longest comic strip
# # #
# GREAT FOR…
4
JGB
# _ PARIS
2100 km BEST TIME TO GO
Chamonix April to June
Savour sky-high views
# Poitiers of Mont Blanc ESSENTIAL
I
# PHOTO
# # #
10
Overlooking the
# ‚
Clermont- Parisian panorama
# # #
# Ferrand from the Basilique du
8
m K Sacré-Coeur.
13
# # # # BEST FOR
K FAMILIES
# Cannes
1445 km Gorges du Verdon Brave the space-age
Experience France's
Sarlat-la-Canéda answer to the rides and roller-coaster
Explore the medieval Grand Canyon thrills of Futuroscope.
heart of this gorgeous
Dordogne town 3060 km
Gor 121
Location Caption details to go hereges du Verdon Ravine through Haute-Provence
Bayeux
F G # ]
#
9
4
#
St-Lô ^
#
#
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A84
\
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St-Michel Fougères
^
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#
\ # \ # Rennes #
8 Essential France \ # ] # \ \ # / · / · ]
^
A81
# #\
#
A11
Angers
# \
^
This is the big one – an epic trek that travels all the : # Nantes
A83
way from the chilly waters of the English Channel : : / ·
to the gleaming blue Mediterranean. Along the way, Parc Naturel \ #
you’ll stop off at some of France’s most iconic sights: Interrégional du
Marais Poitevin
the château of Versailles, the abbey of Mont St- La Rochelle # \ / ·
A10
Michel, the summit of Mont Blanc and the beaches of A T L A N T I C # Saintes
\
the French Riviera. Allez-y! O C E A N
/ ·
A89
Bordeaux#
# 7
Parc / ·
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Naturel
Bay of Régional des
Biscay Landes de
Cascogne
/ ·
A70
a villagey charm, despite # \ / ·
#
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1 Paris the throngs of tourists. # \ # \ #
# #\
^
San
\
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For that essentially The centre of Mont- Sebastián Pau
Parisian experience, it’s martre is place du Tertre,
hard to beat Montmartre once the village’s main
square, now packed with
– the neighbourhood of :
cobbled lanes and cafe- buskers and portrait art- \ # :
#
^
lined squares beloved by ists. You can get a sense of once occupied by Renoir
writers and painters since how the area would once and Utrillo.
have looked at the Musée
the 19th century. This Nearby, Montmartre’s
was once a notoriously de Montmartre (%01 49 25 finest view unfolds from
ramshackle part of Paris, 89 39; www.museede the dome of the Basilique
full of bordellos, brothels, montmartre.fr; 12 rue Cortot, du Sacré-Coeur (%01 53
dance halls and bars, 18e; adult/child €9.50/5.50; 41 89 00; www.sacre-coeur-
as well as the city’s first h10am-6pm; mLamarck- montmartre.com; place du
Caulaincourt), which details
can-can clubs. Though Parvis du Sacré-Cœur; dome
its hedonistic heyday the area’s bohemian past. adult/child €6/4, cash only;
has long since passed, It’s inside Montmartre’s h6am-10.30pm, dome
Montmartre still retains oldest building, a 17th- 8.30am-8pm May-Sep, to 5pm
century manor house
122
#
#
#
200 km
Forêt
# Honfleur \ # # \ ] ] d'Argonne # e 0 0 ] 100 miles
]
/ · /· # Reims # Saarbrücken
l
L
A16
A1
^
]
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]
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Verneuil- / · Parc Naturel
#
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# 1
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\ # # Lorraine # Nancy
]
I
^
D939
# Alençon # p198 Troyes
#
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]
Le Mans / · \ # Colmar
]
A6
] Forêt d'Orléans
#
#
]
/ · Orléans # Auxerre Forêt de Belfort # Mulhouse \ #
\
A28
]
#
6
/ · # Chambord Châtillon # \
A10
Tours ] / · # Vézelay # Dijon # Besançon _
\
#
A77
]
#
]
/ · # Bourges Parc Naturel
Régional
A10
\
du Morvan # BERN
_
Châteauroux \ # # Chalon-sur-Saône FRANCE 8 ESSENTIAL FRANCE
\
44444444
4
44
4
4
# \ Poitiers # Tournus 4
\
Montluçon \ # ] Geneva
#
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44
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#
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9
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A89
Limousin / · Ferrand \ # Chambéry / · 4
A43
St-Étienne 4 w w Fréjus
\ # Tulle ] Tunnel
#
4
4
4
4
4
4
4
4
4
4
4
4
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\ # Grenoble # Turin
Brive-la-Gaillarde
# # / · #Valence 4
#
\
\ #
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8
Briançon
A75
Sarlat-La- # Privas Gap
\
Canéda # Figeac # Mende # Montélimar # \ \ # \ #
\
\
\
\ # \ #
Digne-
12
Parc Naturel #Orange les-Bains 0 ¸ FG
D2205
]
\
#
Régional des Avignon Gorges du Verdon
Grands Causses ] MONTE
# /·
#
13
# N85
Nîmes ] m K ] #CARLO
_
#
#
Nice
#
#Toulouse Montpellier # Aix-en- # / · # ] Cannes I
#
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#
12
#
/ · Golfe de Provence ^ A8 # \ 11 French p200
:
A9
#
Carcassonne # \ Beauduc Marseille St- Riviera Ligurian
Tropez Sea
# \
# #]
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# #]
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LINK #
#
_
Oct-Apr; mAnvers). On a YOUR
clear day, you can see TRIP
for up to 30km. Then D-Day’s Beaches Riviera Crossing
head to the riverbank for 9 c
a stroll through Paris’ Take a side trip Combine this
history (p198). from Caen to follow journey with our jaunt
the course of the WWII down the French Riviera,
54 p130 invasion on Normandy’s which begins in Cannes.
The Drive » Drive From the beaches.
centre of Paris, follow the A13
west from Porte d’Auteuil and
take the exit marked ‘Versailles
Château’. Versailles is 28km
southwest of the city.
123
Appartements du Roi et join the D906 to Chartres. All
2 Versailles de la Reine (State Apart- told, it’s a journey of 76km.
Louis XIV transformed ments) and the famous
his father’s hunting Galerie des Glaces 3 Chartres
(Hall of Mirrors), a
lodge into the Château 75m-long ballroom filled You’ll know you’re near-
de Versailles (%01 30 83 with chandeliers and
78 00; www.chateauversailles. floor-to-ceiling mirrors. ing Chartres long before
you reach it thanks to
fr; place d’Armes; adult/child Outside, the vast park the twin spires of the
passport ticket incl estate-wide incorporates terraces,
access €18/free, with musical flower beds, paths and Cathédrale Notre Dame
events €25/free, palace €15/ fountains, as well as the (www.cathedrale-chartres.
free; h9am-6.30pm Tue-Sun Grand and Petit Canals. org; place de la Cathédrale;
Apr-Oct, to 5.30pm Tue-Sun Northwest of the main h8.30am-7.30pm daily year-
round, also to 10pm Tue, Fri &
Nov-Mar; mRER Versailles- palace is the Domaine
Château–Rive Gauche) in the de Marie-Antoinette Sun Jun-Aug), considered
to be one of the most
mid-17th century, and it
remains France’s most (Marie Antoinette’s Estate; www. important structures in
chateauversailles.fr; Château
Christendom.
majestic palace. The
royal court was based de Versailles; adult/child €10/ The present cathedral
free, with passport ticket free;
here from 1682 until hnoon-6.30pm Tue-Sun was built during the late
FRANCE 8 ESSENTIAL FRANCE
12th century after the
1789, when revolutionar-
ies massacred the palace Apr-Oct, to 5.30pm Tue-Sat original was destroyed
by fire. It’s survived
Nov-Mar), where the royal
guard and dragged
Louis XVI and Marie family would have taken wars and revolutions
refuge from the intrigue
Antoinette back to Paris, and etiquette of court life. remarkably intact, and
the brilliant-blue stained-
where they were inglori-
ously guillotined. The Drive » The N10 runs glass windows have
even inspired their own
The architecture is southwest from Versailles
truly eye-popping. High- through pleasant countryside shade of paint (Chartres
lights include the Grands and forest to Rambouillet. You’ll blue). The cathedral also
houses the Sainte Voile
(Holy Veil), supposedly
worn by the Virgin Mary
while giving birth to
VISITING VERSAILLES Jesus.
Versailles is one of the country’s most popular The best views are
destinations, so planning ahead will make your visit from the 112m-high
more enjoyable. Avoid the busiest days of Tuesday Clocher Neuf (New Bell
and Sunday, and remember that the château is Tower; Cathédrale Notre
closed on Monday. Save time by pre-purchasing Dame; adult/child €7.50/free;
tickets on the château’s website, or arrive early if h9.30am-12.30pm & 2-6pm
you’re buying at the door – by noon queues spiral Mon-Sat, 2-6pm Sun May-Aug,
out of control. 9.30am-12.30pm & 2-5pm Mon-
You can also access off-limits areas (such as Sat, 2-5pm Sun Sep-Apr).
the Private Apartments of Louis XV and Louis XVI, 54 p130
the Opera House and the Royal Chapel) by taking
a 90-minute guided tour (%01 30 83 77 88; www. The Drive » Follow the D939
chateauversailles.fr; tours €7, plus palace entry; hEnglish- northwest for 58km to Verneuil-
language tours 9.30pm Tue-Sun). sur-Avre, then take the D926
west for 78km to Argentan –
124
both great roads through typical based in Genêts. Don’t be
Norman countryside. Just west 5 Mont St-Michel tempted to do it on your
of Argentan, the D158/N158 own – the bay’s tides are
heads north to Caen, then turns You’ve already seen it on notoriously treacherous.
northwest on the N13 to Bayeux, a million postcards, but
94km further. nothing prepares you for 4 p130
the real Mont St-Michel
(%02 33 89 80 00; www. The Drive » Take the A84, N12
TRIP HIGHLIGHT and A81 for 190km to Le Mans
monuments-nationaux.fr;
4 Bayeux adult/child incl guided tour €9/ and the A28 for 102km to Tours,
where you can follow a tour
The Tapisserie de Bayeux free; h9am-7pm, last entry through the Loire Valley if you
(%02 31 51 25 50; www.bayeux 1hr before closing). It’s one wish. Chambord is about 75km
museum.com; rue de Nesmond; of France’s architectural from Tours via the D952.
adult/child incl audio guide marvels, an 11th-century
€9/4; h9am-6.30pm Mar-Oct, island abbey marooned
to 7pm May-Aug, 9.30am- in the middle of a vast 6 Chambord FRANCE 8 ESSENTIAL FRANCE
12.30pm & 2-6pm Nov–Feb) golden bay. If you only have time to
is without doubt the When you arrive, you’ll visit one château in the
world’s most celebrated be steered into one of the Loire, you might as well
(and ambitious) piece of Mont’s huge car parks. make it the grandest –
embroidery. Over 58 pan- You then walk along and Chambord (%info 02
els, the tapestry recounts the causeway (or catch 54 50 40 00, tour & show reser-
the invasion of England a free shuttle bus) to vations 02 54 50 50 40; www.
in 1066 by William I, or the island itself. Guided chambord.org; adult/child
William the Conqueror, tours are included, or you €11/9, parking near/distant
as he’s now known. can explore solo with an €6/4; h9am-5pm or 6pm;
Commissioned in 1077 audioguide. c) is the most lavish of
by Bishop Odo of Bayeux, The Église Abba- them all. It’s a showpiece
William’s half-brother, the tiale (Abbey Church) of Renaissance architec-
tapestry retells the battle is reached via a steep ture, from the double-
in fascinating detail: look climb along the Grande helix staircase up to the
for Norman horses getting Rue. Around the church, turret-covered rooftop.
stuck in the quicksands the cluster of buildings With over 440 rooms, the
around Mont St-Michel, known as La Merveille sheer scale of the place
and the famous appear- (The Marvel) includes the is mindboggling – and
ance of Halley’s Comet cloister, refectory, guest in the Loire, that’s really
in scene 32. The final hall, ambulatory and saying something.
showdown at the Battle of various chapels.
Hastings is particularly For a different perspec- The Drive » It’s 425km to
graphic, complete with tive, take a guided walk Bordeaux via Blois and the A10
motorway. You could consider
severed limbs, decapitated across the sands with breaking the journey with stop-
heads, and the English Découverte de la Baie du offs at Futuroscope and Poitiers,
King Harold getting an Mont-Saint-Michel (%02 roughly halfway between the two.
arrow in the eye. 33 70 83 49; www.decou
vertebaie.com; 1 rue Montoise,
The Drive » Mont St-Michel is Genêts; adult/child from €8/5) 7 Bordeaux
125km southwest of Bayeux; the
fastest route is along the D6 and and Chemins de la Baie When Unesco decided
then the A84 motorway. (%02 33 89 80 88; www. to protect Bordeaux’s
cheminsdelabaie.com; 34 rue medieval architecture in
de l’Ortillon, Genêts; adult/ 2007, it simply listed half
child from €7.30/5), both the city in one fell swoop.
125
WHY THIS IS A PETER RICHARDSON / ROBERTHARDING / GETTY IMAGES ©
GREAT TRIP
OLIVER BERRY,
WRITER
It’s an epic in every sense: in scale,
DOUG PEARSON / GETTY IMAGES ©
views, time and geography. This
once-in-a-lifetime journey covers
France from every possible angle:
top to bottom, east to west, city and
village, old-fashioned and modern,
coast and countryside. It links
together many of the country’s truly
unmissable highlights, and by the
end you’ll genuinely be able to say
you’ve seen the heart and soul of
France.
Top: Produce market, Aix-en-Provence
Left: Sausages for sale, Sarlat-la-Canéda
Right: Cathédrale St-André, Bordeaux
Covering 18 sq km, this is
the world’s largest urban
World Heritage Site, with
grand buildings and
architectural treasures
galore.
Top of the heap is the
Cathédrale St-André,
MARCOCIANNAREL / SHUTTERSTOCK ©
known for its stone
carvings and generously
gargoyled belfry, the Tour
Pey-Berland (place Jean
Moulin; adult/child €5.50/
free; h10am-1.15pm & 2-6pm
Jun-Sep, 10am-12.30pm &
2-5.30pm Oct-May). But the FRANCE 8 ESSENTIAL FRANCE
whole old city rewards
wandering, especially
around the Jardin Public
(cours de Verdun), the pretty
squares of esplanade
des Quinconces and
place Gambetta, and the
city’s 4km-long river-
front esplanade, with its
playgrounds, paths and
paddling pools.
54 p130
The Drive » Sarlat-la-Canéda
is a drive of 194km via the A89
motorway, or you can take a
longer but more enjoyable route
via the D936.
TRIP HIGHLIGHT
8 Sarlat-la-Canéda
If you’re looking for
France’s heart and soul,
you’ll find it among the
forests and fields of the
Dordogne. It’s the stuff of
French fantasies: river-
bank châteaux, medieval
villages, wooden-hulled
gabarres (flat-bottomed
barges) and market stalls
groaning with foie gras,
truffles, walnuts and
127
wines. The medieval town then turn off onto the N89/D89 Usines Lumières, on 19
of Sarlat-la-Canéda makes to Lyon. This route should cover March 1895.
the perfect base, with a between 420km and 430km.
beautiful medieval centre 54 p131
and lots of lively markets. The Drive » Take the A42
It’s also ideally placed 9 Lyon towards Lake Geneva, then the
for exploring the Vézère Fired up by French food? A40 towards St-Gervais-les-
Valley, about 20km to Then you’ll love Lyon, Bains. The motorway becomes
the northwest, home with its bouchons (small the N205 as it nears Chamonix.
It’s a drive of at least 225km.
to France’s finest cave bistros), bustling markets
paintings. Most famous and fascinating food
of all are the ones at the culture. Start in Vieux TRIP HIGHLIGHT
Grotte de Lascaux (%05 Lyon and the picturesque a Chamonix
53 51 95 03; www.semitour. quarter of Presqu’île, Snuggling among snow-
com; Montignac; adult/child then catch the funicular clad mountains – includ-
€9.90/6.40, combined ticket to the top of Fourvière to ing Europe’s highest
with Le Thot €13.50/9.40; explore the city’s Roman summit, Mont Blanc –
hguided tours 9am-7pm Jul ruins and enjoy cross- adrenaline-fuelled
& Aug, 9.30am-6pm Apr-Jun, town views. Chamonix is an ideal
Sep & Oct, 10am-12.30pm & Film buffs will also
FRANCE 8 ESSENTIAL FRANCE
2-5pm Nov-Mar, closed Jan), want to make time for the springboard for the
French Alps. In winter,
although to prevent dam- Musée Lumière (%04 78 it’s a mecca for skiers
age to the paintings, you 78 18 95; www.institut-lumiere. and snowboarders, and
now visit a replica of the org; 25 rue du Premier Film, in summer, once the
cave’s main sections in a 8e; adult/child €6.50/5.50;
nearby grotto. h10am-6.30pm Tue-Sun; snows thaw, the high-level
mMonplaisir-Lumière), where trails become a trekkers’
The Drive » The drive east the Lumière Brothers paradise.
to Lyon is a long one, covering There are two really
well over 400km and travelling (Auguste and Louis) essential Chamonix expe-
across the spine of the Massif shot the first reels of riences. First, catch the
Central. A good route is to follow the world’s first motion dizzying cable car to the
the A89 all the way to exit 6, picture, La Sortie des
top of the Aiguille du Midi
to snap a shot of Mont
Blanc.
FUTUROSCOPE Then take the combi-
nation mountain train
Halfway between Chambord and Bordeaux on the and cable car from the
A10, 10km north of Poitiers, Futuroscope (%05 49 49 Gare du Montenvers
11 12; www.futuroscope.com; av René Monory, Chasseneuil-du- (%04 50 53 22 75; www.
Poitou; adult/child €43/35; h10am-11.15pm Jul, 9am-11.15pm compagniedumontblanc.fr;
Aug, shorter hours rest of year, closed Jan–mid-Feb) is one of 35 place de la Mer de Glace;
France’s top theme parks. It’s a futuristic experience adult/child return €31/26.40;
that takes you whizzing through space, diving into h10am-4.30pm) to the
the ocean depths, racing around city streets and on Mer de Glace (Sea of Ice),
a close encounter with creatures of the future. Note France’s largest glacier.
that many rides have a minimum height of 120cm. Wrap up warmly if you
You’ll need at least five hours to check out the want to visit the glacier’s
major attractions, or two days to see everything. The sculptures and ice caves.
park is in the suburb of Jaunay-Clan; take exit 28 off
the A10. The Drive » The drive to the
Riviera is full of scenic thrills.
128
An attractive route is via the
D1212 to Albertville, and then
via the A43, which travels over
the Italian border and through PETER BURNETT / GETTY IMAGES ©
the Tunnel de Fréjus. From here,
the N94 runs through Briançon,
and a combination of the A51,
N85 and D6085 carries you
south to Nice. You’ll cover at
least 430km.
b French Riviera
If there’s one coast road
in France you simply
have to drive, it’s the
French Riviera, with
its rocky cliffs, maquis-
scented air and dazzling French Riviera The winding coastline
Med views. Sun-seekers
have been flocking here
since the 19th century, c Aix-en-Provence
and its scenery still never TRIP HIGHLIGHT
fails to seduce. Sleepy Provence sums d Gorges du Verdon
Lively Nice and up the essence of la Complete your cross-
cinematic Cannes make douce vie (the gentle France adventure with
natural starts, but for the life). Cloaked in lavender an unforgettable expedi-
Riviera’s loveliest scenery, and spotted with hilltop tion to the Gorges du
you’ll want to drive down villages, it’s a region Verdon – sometimes
the gorgeous Corniche that sums up everything known as the Grand
de l’Estérel to St-Tropez, that’s good about France. Canyon of Europe. This
still a watchword for Cruising the back deep ravine slashes 25km
seaside glamour. Summer roads and browsing the through the plateaus
can be hellish, but come markets are the best of Haute-Provence; in
in spring or autumn and ways to get acquainted. places, its walls rise to a
you’ll have its winding Carpentras and Vaison- dizzying 700m, twice the
lanes and fragrant hills la-Romaine are particu- height of the Eiffel Tower
practically to yourself. larly detour-worthy, while (321m).
For maximum views, artistic Aix-en-Provence The two main
stick to the coast roads: encapsulates the classic jumping-off points are
the D6098 to Antibes and Provençal vibe, with the villages of Moustiers
Cannes, the D559 around its pastel buildings and Ste-Marie, in the west,
the Corniche de l’Estérel, Cézanne connections. and Castellane, in the
and the D98A to St- 54 p131 east. Drivers and bikers
Tropez. It’s about 120km can take in the canyon
via this route. The Drive » The gorges are
230km northeast of Aix-en- panorama from two
The Drive » From St-Tropez, Provence, via the A51 and D952. vertigo-inducing cliffside
take the fast A8 for about roads, but the base of the
230km west to Aix-en-Provence. gorge is only accessible
on foot or by raft.
129
Eating & Sleeping / GETTY IMAGES ©
4 Le Grand Monarque Hotel €€€
Paris 1 (%02 37 18 15 15; www.bw-grand-monarque.
com; 22 place des Épars; d €145-215, f €275;
5 Holybelly International € aiW) With its teal-blue shutters gracing
(www.holybel.ly; 19 rue Lucien Sampaix, 10e; its 1779 façade, lovely stained-glass ceiling,
breakfast €5-11.50, lunch mains €13.50-16.50; and treasure trove of period furnishings, old
h9am-6pm Thu, Fri, Mon, from 10am Sat & B&W photos and knick-knacks, the refurbished
Sun; mJacques Bonsergent) This outstanding Grand Monarque (with air-con in some rooms)
barista-run coffee shop and kitchen is always is a historical gem and very central. A host of
rammed with a buoyant crowd, who never tire of hydrotherapy treatments are available at its
Holybelly’s exceptional service, Belleville-roasted spa. Its elegant restaurant, Georges (%02 37
coffee and cuisine. Sarah’s breakfast pancakes 18 15 15; www.bw-grand-monarque.com; 22 place
FRANCE 8 ESSENTIAL FRANCE
served with egg, bacon, homemade bourbon des Épars; 4-course menu from €75, 8-course
butter and maple syrup are legendary, while her tasting menu €95, mains €38-41; hnoon-2pm
lunch menu features everything from traditional & 7.30-10pm Tue-Sat), has a Michelin star. Staff
braised veal shank to squid à la plancha. are charming.
4 Hôtel Amour Boutique Hotel €€
(%01 48 78 31 80; www.hotelamourparis.fr; 8 Mont St-Michel 5
rue Navarin, 9e; d €170-230; W; mSt-Georges,
Pigalle) Craving romance in Paris? The inimitable 4 Vent des Grèves B&B €
black-clad Amour (‘Love’) features original (%Estelle 02 33 48 28 89; www.ventdesgreves.
design and nude artwork in each of the rooms, com; 7-9 chemin des Dits, Ardevon; s/d/tr/q incl
some more explicit than others. The icing on the breakfast €42/52/62/72) This friendly, family-
cake is the hip ground-floor bistro with summer run B&B has five modern rooms, furnished
patio garden, a tasty spot for breakfast, lunch or simply, with magical views of the Mont.
dinner and everything in between. Rooms don’t Outstanding value. Situated an easily walkable
have a TV, but who cares when you’re in love? 1km east of the shuttle stop in La Caserne.
Chartres 3 Bordeaux 7
5 Le Tripot Bistro €€ 5 Le Petit Commerce Seafood €€
(%02 37 36 60 11; www.letripot.wixsite.com/ (05 56 79 76 58; 22 rue Parlement St-Pierre;
chartres; 11 place Jean Moulin; 2-/3-course 2-course lunch menu €14, mains €15-25;
lunch menus €15/18, 3-course dinner menus hnoon-midnight) This iconic bistro, with dining
€29.50-45, mains €13.50-22; hnoon-1.45pm rooms both sides of a narrow pedestrian street
& 7.30-9.15pm Tue & Thu-Sat, noon-1.45pm Sun) and former Michelin-starred chef Stéphane
Tucked off the tourist trail and easy to miss, even Carrade in the kitchen, is the star turn of the
if you do chance down its narrow street, this trendy St-Pierre quarter. It’s best known for
atmospheric space with low beamed ceilings is its excellent seafood menu that embraces
a treat for authentic and adventurous French everything from Arcachon sole and oysters to
fare like saddle of rabbit stuffed with snails, eels, lobsters and chipirons (baby squid) fresh
and grilled turbot in truffled hollandaise sauce. from St-Jean de Luz.
Locals are onto it, so booking ahead is advised.
130
4 Mama Shelter Design Hotel €€ 17th-century houses wrapped around a traboule
(%05 57 30 45 45; www.mamashelter.com/ (secret passage) with preserved features such
en/bordeaux; 19 rue Poquelin Molière; d/tr as Italianate loggias make this an exquisite
from €79/129) With personalised iMacs, video place to stay. Individually decorated rooms woo
booths and free movies in every room, Mama with designer bathroom fittings and bountiful
Shelter leads the way in cutting-edge sleep. antiques, while decadent facilities include a spa,
Crisp white rooms come in small, medium or a Michelin-starred restaurant (menus €95 to
large, with family-friendly XL doubles touting a €115), a swish cafe and a cross-vaulted bar.
sofa bed. The ground-floor restaurant (mains
€13 to €29) sports the same signature rubber
rings strung above the bar as other Philippe Aix-en-Provence c
Starck–designed hotels, and weekends usher 5 Le Petit Verdot French €€
concerts, gigs and other cultural happenings
onto the small stage. (%04 42 27 30 12; www.lepetitverdot.fr; 7 rue
d’Entrecasteaux; mains €19-25; h7pm-midnight
Mon-Sat) Great Provençal food and great FRANCE 8 ESSENTIAL FRANCE
Lyon 9 Provençal wines – really, what more do you want
from a meal in this part of France? It’s all about
5 Le Poêlon d’Or Bouchon €€ hearty, honest dining here, with table tops made
(%04 78 37 65 60; www.lepoelondor-restaurant. out of old wine crates, and a lively chef-patron
fr; 29 rue des Remparts d’Ainay, 2e; lunch who runs the place with huge enthusiasm.
menus €17-20, menus €27-32; hnoon-2pm & Expect slow-braised meats, seasonal veg, sinful
7.30-10pm Mon-Fri; mAmpère-Victor Hugo) This desserts and some super wines to go with.
upmarket bouchon, around the corner from the 4 Villa Gallici Historic Hotel €€€
Musée des Tissus, is well known among local (%04 42 23 29 23; www.villagallici.com; 18 av de
foodies who recommend its superb andouillette la Violette; r from €350; paWs) Baroque
(chitterlings) and pike dumplings. Save room for and beautiful, this fabulous villa was built as
the delicious chocolate mousse or the vanilla a private residence in the 18th century, and
crème brûlée. Yummy. Well worth the detour.
it still feels marvellously opulent. Rooms are
4 Cour des Loges Hotel €€€ more like museum pieces, stuffed with gilded
(%04 72 77 44 44; www.courdesloges.com; 2-8 mirrors, toile-de-jouy wallpaper and filigreed
rue du Bœuf, 5e; d €200-350, ste €250-600; furniture. There’s a lovely lavender-filled garden
aiWs; mVieux Lyon) Four 14th- to for breakfast, plus a super pool for lazy evening
swims. It even has its own wine cellar.
CaptionCaptionCaptionCaption
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#
BERTL123 / SHUTTERSTOCK ©
D-Day’s Beaches 9
Explore the events of D-Day, when Allied troops stormed ashore
to liberate Europe from Nazi occupation. From war museums to
landing beaches, it’s a fascinating and sobering experience.
TRIP HIGHLIGHTS
3 DAYS
88 km 142KM / 88 MILES
Omaha Beach
Pay your respects at GREAT FOR…
the American
B
Cemetery & Memorial
Utah
m K BEST TIME TO GO
Beach
April to July, to avoid
summer-holiday
#
# traffic around the
8
# # #
# beaches.
# # # 7
Carentan # #
Isigny- Sully #
sur-Mer ESSENTIAL
I PHOTO
l L Standing next to
#
# # # 1
the German guns at
Longues-sur-Mer.
Pointe du Hoc Caen K BEST FOR
HISTORY
Wander amongst shell Visit an award-winning
craters that haven't multimedia D-Day The Caen Mémorial
changed since D-Day museum provides you with a
98 km 0 km comprehensive D-Day
overview.
O Location Caption details to go heremaha Normandy American Cemetery & Memorial 133
9 D-Day’s Beaches
The beaches and bluffs are quiet today, but on 6 June 1944 the Normandy
shoreline witnessed the arrival of the largest armada the world has ever
seen. This patch of the French coast will forever be synonymous with D-Day
(known to the French as Jour-J), and the coastline is strewn with memorials,
museums and cemeteries – reminders that though victory was won on the
Longest Day, it came at a terrible price.
# \
# \
# \ Valognes
English Channel
# \ Montebourg (La Manche)
/ ·
D14
/ ·
N13
m K
Utah Beach
Ste-Mère-
# \ #
9
# \ # Pointe
St-Sauveur- Église Vierville-
# \ du Hoc
le-Vicomte Grandcamp- sur-Mer
0 ¸ Baie Maisy # \ # 0 ¸ Omaha
#
8
D514
D913
0 ¸ des Veys # \ Beach Port-en-
# \ D900 St-Laurent- # \ Bessin-
# \ #
sur-Mer # 7 # \ Huppain
Parc Naturel Isigny- # \ Russy # \
Douve
N13
Régional des sur-Mer La Cambe / · # \ # \
La Haye- Marais du Cotentin # \
# \ # \
du-Puits et du Bessin Carentan Le Grand Maisons # \
Hameau
Sully # \
MANCHE
BASSE- # ]
H NORMANDIE
#
# \ Lessay p140 # \ Le Moray-
Littry
Le Hommet-
d'Arthenay Forêt de
Periers # \ # \ Cerisy
/ · 0 ¸ 0 ¸ # \ Balleroy
D2
D971
D900
0 ¸
St-Lô D572
# ^
Caumont-
# \ l'Éventé
0 ¸
# \ Coutances D999 Vire
# \
in a purpose- designed Normandy. A second sec-
TRIP HIGHLIGHT building covering 14,000 tion focuses on the Cold
1 Caen sq metres, the memo- War. There’s also the
Situated 3km northwest rial offers an immersive well-preserved original
bunker used by German
experience, using sound,
of Caen, the award- lighting, film, animation command in 1944.
winning Mémorial – Un and audio testimony to On your way around,
Musée pour la Paix evoke the grim reali- look out for an original
(Memorial – A Museum for ties of war, the trials of Typhoon fighter plane
Peace; %02 31 06 06 44; www. occupation and the joy of and a full-size Sherman
memorial-caen.fr; esplanade liberation. tank.
Général Eisenhower; adult/child The visit begins with
€20/17; h9am-7pm daily early a whistle-stop overview 54 p141
Feb-early Nov, 9.30am-6.30pm of Europe’s descent into The Drive » From the
Tue-Sun early Nov- early Feb, total war, tracing events museum, head northeast
closed 3 weeks in Jan) is a from the end of WWI along Esplanade Brillaud de FRANCE 9 D-DAY’S BEACHES
brilliant place to begin through to the rise of Laujardière, and follow signs
with some background fascism in Europe, the to Ouistreham. You’ll join the
on the historic events German occupation of E46 ring road; follow it to exit
of D-Day, and the wider France and the Battle of 3a (Porte d’Angleterre), and
context of WWII. Housed merge onto the D515 and D84
to Ouistreham. Park on the
seafront on bd Aristide Briand.
In all it’s a trip of 18km.
# e 0 0 10 miles 20 km
2 Ouistreham
On D-Day, the sandy sea-
front around Ouistreham
was code named Sword
Baie de Beach and was the focus
la Seine
LINK
Longues- YOUR
sur-Mer Juno & Gold TRIP
# \ # 0¸
# \ Beaches Courseulles-
# # D514 # sur-Mer
# \ #
5
4
#
3
Arromanches # \ Essential France
# \ 8
# \ Crepon Rade de
Join this grand tour at
# \ Douvres Caen the island abbey of Mont St-
# Beny- / · # \ Michel, about 140km from
#
D79
# ] Bayeux
6
# \
# \
sur-Mer Ouistreham # the Normandy coastline via
# ] #
2
0 ¸ the A84 motorway.
D514
F G l L # \ Ranville d Champagne Taster
8
/ · / · For a change in focus
N13
D6
Fortenay- # 1 # ^ # head east, about four hours
# \
le-Pesnel Caen / · from Caen, to the cellars of
A13
/ · Épernay for a fizz-fuelled
A84
tour.
0 ¸
CALVADOS
N158
Orne
Amayé-
# \ Villers- Bocage # \ 135
sur-Ome
of attack for the British following signs for ‘Overlord – King George VI on 16
3rd Infantry Division. L’Assaut’ onto the D514 towards June. A Cross of Lorraine
There are precious few Courseulles-sur-Mer, 18km west. marks the historic spot.
reminders of the battle Drive through town onto rue de The area’s only Cana-
Ver, and follow signs to ‘Centre
today, but on D-Day the Juno Beach’. dian museum, the Juno
scene was very different: Beach Centre (%02 31
most of the surrounding 37 32 17; www.junobeach.
buildings had been level- 3 Juno & Gold org; voie des Français Libres,
led by artillery fire, and Beaches Courseulles-sur-Mer; adult/
German bunkers and child €7/5.50, incl guided
artillery positions were On D-Day, Courseulles- tour of Juno Beach €11/9;
strung out along the sur-Mer was known as h9.30am-7pm Apr-Sep,
seafront. Sword Beach Juno Beach, and was 10am-5pm Oct-Mar, closed Jan)
was the site of some of stormed mainly by Cana- has exhibits on Canada’s
the most famous images dian troops. It was here role in the war effort and
of D-Day – including the that the exiled French the landings, and offers
infamous ones of British General Charles de guided tours of Juno
troops landing with Gaulle came ashore after Beach (€5.50) from April
bicycles, and bagpiper the landings – the first to October.
Bill Millin piping troops ‘official’ French soldier A short way west is
FRANCE 9 D-DAY’S BEACHES
ashore while under to set foot in mainland Gold Beach, attacked by
heavy fire. Europe since 1940. He the British 50th Infantry
was followed by Winston on D-Day.
The Drive » Follow the Churchill on 12 June and
seafront west onto rue de Lion, The Drive » Drive west
along the D514 for 14km to
Arromanches. You’ll pass a
carpark and viewpoint marked
D-DAY IN FIGURES with a statue of the Virgin Mary,
which overlooks Port Winston
Code named ‘Operation Overlord’, the D-Day landings and Gold Beach. Follow the road
were the largest military operation in history. On into town and signs to Musée du
the morning of 6 June 1944, swarms of landing Débarquement.
craft – part of an armada of more than 6000 ships
and 13,000 aeroplanes – hit the northern Normandy
beaches, and tens of thousands of soldiers from the 4 Arromanches
USA, the UK, Canada and elsewhere began pouring This seaside town was
onto French soil. The initial landing force involved the site of one of the
some 45,000 troops; 15 more divisions were to follow great logistical achieve-
once successful beachheads had been established. ments of D-Day. In order
The majority of the 135,000 Allied troops stormed to unload the vast quan-
ashore along 80km of beaches north of Bayeux that tities of cargo needed
were codenamed (from west to east) Utah, Omaha, by the invasion forces
Gold, Juno and Sword. The landings were followed without capturing one
by the 76-day Battle of Normandy, during which the of the heavily defended
Allies suffered 210,000 casualties, including 37,000 Channel ports, the Allies
troops killed. German casualties are believed to have set up prefabricated
been around 200,000; another 200,000 German marinas off two landing
soldiers were taken prisoner. About 14,000 French beaches, code named
civilians also died. Mulberry Harbour. These
For more background and statistics, see www. consisted of 146 massive
normandiememoire.com and www.6juin1944.com.
cement caissons towed
136
over from England and
sunk to form a semi- D-DAY DRIVING ROUTES
circular breakwater in
which floating bridge There are several signposted driving routes around
spans were moored. In the main battle sites – look for signs for ‘D-Day-Le
the three months after Choc’ in the American sectors and ‘Overlord –
D-Day, the Mulberries L’Assaut’ in the British and Canadian sectors. A free
facilitated the unloading booklet called The D-Day Landings and the Battle of
of a mind-boggling 2.5 Normandy, available from tourist offices, has details
million men, four million on the eight main routes.
tonnes of equipment and Maps of the D-Day beaches are available at tabacs
500,000 vehicles. (tobacconists), newsagents and bookshops in
At low tide, the stan- Bayeux and elsewhere.
chions of one of these
artificial quays, Port FRANCE 9 D-DAY’S BEACHES
Winston (named after east) and Omaha Beach soldiers whose remains
Winston Churchill), can (to the west). were never found. The
still be seen on the sands Parts of the classic Latin inscription reads:
at Arromanches. D-Day film, The Longest ‘We, whom William once
Beside the beach, the Day (1962), were filmed conquered, have now
Musée du Débarquement here. set free the conqueror’s
(Landing Museum; %02 31 22 The Drive » Backtrack to the native land’.
34 31; www.musee-arroman crossroads and head straight Nearby, the Musée
ches.fr; place du 6 Juin; adult/ over onto the D104, signed to Mémorial de la Bataille
child €7.90/5.80; h9am- Vaux-sur-Aure/Bayeux for 8km. de Normandie (Battle of
12.30pm & 1.30-6pm Apr-Sep, When you reach town, turn right Normandy Memorial Museum;
10am-12.30pm & 1.30-5pm Oct- onto the D613, and follow signs %02 31 51 46 90; www.bayeux
to the ‘Musée de la Bataille de
Mar, closed Jan) explains the Normandie’. museum.com; bd Fabien Ware;
logistics and importance adult/child €7/4; h9.30am-
of Port Winston. 6.30pm May-Sep, 10am-
12.30pm & 2-6pm Oct-Apr,
The Drive » Continue west 6 Bayeux closed Jan-mid-Feb) explores
along the D514 for 6km to the Though best known for the battle through photos,
village of Longues-sur-Mer. You’ll its medieval tapestry, personal accounts, diora-
see the sign for the Batterie de Bayeux has another claim mas and film.
Longues on your right.
to fame: it was the first
town to be liberated after 54 p141
5 Longues-sur-Mer D-Day (on the morning of The Drive » After
7 June 1944).
overnighting in Bayeux, head
At Longues-sur-Mer It’s also home to the northwest of town on the
you can get a glimpse of largest of Normandy’s 18 D6 towards Port-en-Bessin-
the awesome firepower Commonwealth military Huppain. You’ll reach a Super-U
available to the German cemeteries – the Bayeux supermarket after about 10km.
defenders in the shape War Cemetery, situated Go round the roundabout and
of two 150mm artillery on bd Fabien Ware. It turn onto the D514 for another
guns, still housed in their contains 4848 graves of 8km. You’ll see signs to the
‘Cimetière Americain’ near the
concrete casements. On soldiers from the UK and hamlet of Le Bray. Omaha Beach
D-Day they were capable 10 other countries – in- is another 4km further on, near
of hitting targets more cluding Germany. Across Vierville-sur-Mer.
than 20km away – includ- the road is a memorial
ing Gold Beach (to the for 1807 Commonwealth
137
WHY THIS IS A PAUL THOMPSON / GETTY IMAGES ©
GREAT TRIP
OLIVER BERRY,
WRITER
You’ll have heard the D-Day story
many times before, but there’s
nothing quite like standing on the
beaches where this epic struggle
MOIRENC CAMILLE / HEMIS.FR / GETTY IMAGES ©
played out. D-Day marked the
turning point of WWII and heralded
the end for Nazism in Europe. Paying
your respects to the soldiers who
laid down their lives in the name of
freedom is an experience that will
stay with you forever.
Top: Arromanches and Gold Beach
Left & Right: Normandy American Cemetery &
Memorial
TRIP HIGHLIGHT
7 Omaha Beach
If anywhere symbolises
the courage and sacrifice
of D-Day, it’s Omaha –
GUILLAUME LOUYOT / GETTY IMAGES ©
still known as ‘Bloody
Omaha’ to US veterans.
It was here, on the 7km
stretch of coastline be-
tween Vierville-sur-Mer,
St-Laurent-sur-Mer and
Colleville-sur-Mer, that
the most brutal fighting FRANCE 9 D-DAY’S BEACHES
on D-Day took place. US
troops had to fight their
way across the beach
towards the heavily
defended cliffs, exposed
to underwater obstacles,
hidden minefields and
withering crossfire. The
toll was heavy: of the
2500 casualties at Omaha
on D-Day, more than
1000 were killed, most
within the first hour of
the landings.
High on the bluffs
above Omaha, the
Normandy American
Cemetery & Memorial
(%02 31 51 62 00; www.abmc.
gov; Colleville-sur-Mer; h9am-
6pm mid-Apr–mid-Sep, to 5pm
mid-Sep–mid-Apr) provides a
sobering reminder of the
human cost of the battle.
Featured in the opening
scenes of Saving Private
Ryan, this is the largest
American cemetery in
Europe, containing the
graves of 9387 American
soldiers, and a memorial
to 1557 comrades ‘known
only unto God’.
Start off in the very
thoughtfully designed
visitor centre, which
139
has moving portrayals
of some of the soldiers
buried here. Afterwards, DETOUR:
take in the expanse of COUTANCES
white marble crosses Start: 9 Utah Beach
and Stars of David that
stretch off in seemingly The lovely old Norman town of Coutances makes
endless rows, surrounded a good detour when travelling between the D-Day
by an immaculately beaches and Mont St-Michel. At the town’s heart
tended expanse of lawn. is its Gothic Cathédrale de Coutances (http://
cathedralecoutances.free.fr; parvis Notre-Dame; h8.30am-
The Drive » From the Vierville- noon & 2-5.30pm). Interior highlights include several
sur-Mer seafront, follow the rural 13th-century windows, a 14th-century fresco of St
D514 through quiet countryside Michael skewering the dragon, and an organ and high
towards Grandcamp-Maisy. After
about 10km you’ll see signs to altar from the mid-1700s. You can climb the lantern
‘Pointe du Hoc’. tower on a tour (adult/child €7/4).
Coutances is about 50km south of Utah Beach by
the most direct route.
TRIP HIGHLIGHT
8 Pointe du Hoc
FRANCE 9 D-DAY’S BEACHES
West of Omaha, this h9am-6pm mid-Apr–mid-Sep, lightly defended, and by
craggy promontory to 5pm rest of year), which midday the landing force
was the site of D-Day’s France turned over to the had linked with para-
most audacious military US government in 1979, troopers from the 101st
exploit. At 7.10am, 225 US looks much as it did on Airborne. By nightfall,
Army Rangers command- D-Day, complete with some 20,000 men and
ed by Lt Col James Earl shell craters and crum- 1700 vehicles had arrived
Rudder scaled the sheer bling gun emplacements. on French soil, and the
30m cliffs, where the The Drive » Stay on the D514 road to European libera-
Germans had stationed a to Grandcamp-Maisy, then tion had begun.
battery of artillery guns continue south onto the D13 dual Today the Utah Beach
trained onto the beaches carriageway. Keep going till you site is marked by military
of Utah and Omaha. Un- reach the turn-off for the D913, memorials and the
fortunately, the guns had signed to St-Marie-du-Mont/ Musée du Débarquement
Utah Beach. It’s a 44km drive.
already been moved in- (Utah Beach Landing Museum;
land, and Rudder and his %02 33 71 53 35; www.utah-
men spent the next two 9 Utah Beach beach.com; Ste-Marie du Mont;
days repelling counter- adult/child €8/4; h9.30am-
attacks. By the time they The D-Day tour ends at 7pm Jun-Sep, 10am-6pm
St-Marie-du-Mont, also
were finally relieved on Oct-May, closed Jan) inside
8 June, 81 of the rangers known as Utah Beach, the former German com-
had been killed and 58 which was assaulted by mand post.
soldiers of the US 4th and
more had been wounded. 8th Infantry Divisions.
Today the site (%02 The beach was relatively
31 51 90 70; www.abmc.gov;
140
Eating & Sleeping
presented dishes. Choose from the day’s
Caen 1 specials listed on a chalkboard menu, which
might include hits like brandade de morue
5 À Contre (baked codfish pie). It’s a local favourite, so call
Sens Modern French €€ ahead.
(%02 31 97 44 48; www.acontresenscaen.fr; 8 rue 5 Au Ptit
Croisiers; mains €30-35, menus €25-54; hnoon- Bistrot Modern French €€
1.15pm Wed-Sat & 7.30-9.15pm Tue-Sat) A Contre
Sens’s stylish interior and serene atmosphere (%02 31 92 30 08; 31 rue Larcher; lunch menu
belie the hotbed of seething creativity happening €17-20, dinner menu €27-33, mains €16-19;
in the kitchen. Under the helm of chef Anthony hnoon-2pm & 7-9pm Tue-Sat) Near the
Caillot, meals are thoughtfully crafted and cathedral, this friendly, welcoming eatery whips FRANCE 9 D-DAY’S BEACHES
superbly presented. Recent selections included up creative, beautifully prepared dishes that
pollack cooked in seawater with risotto of highlight the Norman bounty without a lick of
oysters, cabbage and coconut, and a juicy thick- pretension. Recent hits include chestnut soup,
cut pork chop with carmelised onions. duck breast and bulgur with seasonal fruits
and roasted pineapple, and black cod with
5 Café Mancel Norman €€ spinach and spicy guacamole. Reservations are
(%02 31 86 63 64; www.cafemancel.com; essential.
Château de Caen; menus €18-36; hnoon-10pm 4 Les Logis
Tue-Sat, to 2pm Sun) In the same building as du Rempart B&B €
the Musée des Beaux-Arts, stylish Café Mancel
serves up delicious, traditional French cuisine – (%02 31 92 50 40; www.lecornu.fr; 4 rue
everything from pan-fried Norman-style Bourbesneur; d €60-105, tr €110-130; W) The
beefsteak to hearty Caen-style tripes. Has a three rooms of this delightful maison de famille
lovely sun terrace, which also makes a fine spot ooze old-fashioned cosiness. Our favourite,
for a drink outside of busy meal times. the Bajocasse, has parquet flooring, a canopy
bed and Toile de Jouy wallpaper. The shop
4 Hôtel des Quatrans Hotel €€ downstairs is the perfect place to stock up on
(%02 31 86 25 57; www.hotel-des-quatrans.com; top-quality, homemade cider and calvados
17 rue Gémare; d from €100; W) This typically (apple brandy). Two-night minimum stay.
modern hotel has 47 comfy, unfussy rooms 4 Villa Lara Boutique Hotel €€€
in white and chocolate. Promotional deals are
often available online. (%02 31 92 00 55; www.hotel-villalara.com; 6
place de Québec; d €190-360, ste €390-520;
paW) Newly constructed in the past
Bayeux 6 decade, this 28-room hotel, Bayeux’s most
luxurious, sports minimalist colour schemes,
5 Alchimie Modern French €€ top-quality fabrics and decor that juxtaposes
(lunch menu €12) On a street lined with 18th- and 21st-century tastes. Amenities
restaurants, Alchimie has a simple but elegant include a bar and a gym. Most rooms have
design that takes nothing from the beautifully cathedral views.
141
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a151
Location Caption details to go here
Atlantic to Med 10
VALERY ROKHIN / SHUTTERSTOCK / GETTY IMAGES ©
Salty Atlantic ports, pristine mountain vistas, the heady bouquet
of fine wine, reminders of Rome and Hollywood glam: this classic
sea-to-sea trip takes you through the best of southern France.
TRIP HIGHLIGHTS
10 DAYS
0 km 1498KM /
La Rochelle 931 MILES
Made for waterfront
mooching, lunching and
sunset drinks GREAT FOR…
175 km HB
St-Émilion
l
# 1 L shopping for some
Wine tasting and
# # #
of the world's BEST TIME TO GO
finest drops
Spring or autumn, for
warm weather sans
# the crowds.
2
#
# St-Émilion
m K
Nice ESSENTIAL
Montpellier # # I
# # PHOTO
Bayonne # # # 8 # # Pose like a film star on
#
6
Narbonne the steps of Cannes’s
Palais des Festivals et
des Congrès.
Carcassonne Marseille BEST FOR
Walk the ramparts of Visit MuCEM, icon of K FAMILIES
France's most modern Marseille, with
magnificent fortress city stunning views to boot La Rochelle, with
863 km 1158 km its child-friendly
attractions and boats.
L Location Caption details to go herea Rochelle Seafaring centre built from limestone 143
10 Atlantic to Med
In May the film starlets of the world pour into Cannes to celebrate a year of
movie-making. Let them have their moment of glam – by the time you’ve
finished scaling Pyrenean highs, chewing Basque tapas, acting like a
medieval knight in a turreted castle and riding to the moon in a spaceship,
you too will have the makings of a prize-winning film.
# \
Parc Naturel Interrégional / ·
A20
du Marais Poitevin # \ Montluçon
# 1
# \ La Rochelle
N145
Île de Ré # l L Vienne Creuse 0 ¸ / · Allier
A71
# CHARENTE-
H
MARITIME
p146 Roanne
Saintes # \ Limoges Clermont-Ferrand
# \
A T L A N T I C # \ Cognac # ]
O C E A N / · Régional Périgord-
Parc Naturel
A10
# \
A20
Limousin / · Vézère La Bourboule
/ · Tulle
N21
Gironde
Estuary DORDOGNE / · # \ Brive-la-
A89
/ · Gaillarde
A89
#
2
A75
Bordeaux # ^ # St-Émilion Sarlat-la- # \ Dordogne Truyère / ·
# \
Bay of Canéda
Biscay / · 0 ¸
A20
D921
GIRONDE Célé # \ Figeac Lot / · Mende
A75
# \
Parc Naturel LOT-ET- Parc Naturel Parc National
Régional des / · GARONNE Régional Causses AVEYRON des Cévennes
A65
Landes de / · de Quercy 0 ¸
N106
A62
Cascogne Tarn
TARN-ET-
LANDES GARONNE
Bayonne / · Tarn / ·
A75
A70
Adour GERS TARN
Biarritz / · # Parc Naturel Montpellier # ]
#
A65
5
# ] Toulouse
Régional du
#
A64
3
# \ # # \ #\ / · Pau Arros Save Haut-Languedoc
# \ # \
A9
# \ #\ #\ # \ HAUTE- / ·
Baracaldo # ^ Hondarribia Beziers
San Pau # \ Tarbes GARONNE / · # \
A61
# \ #
6
Sebastián # \ / · # Narbonne # \
A64
F G Lourdes # \ F G Carcassonne / ·
0 ¸
11
A9
D18
# ^ D921 Cirque de 11 / · AUDE Golfe de Beauduc
# ] Pamplona S P A I N # Gavarnie 0 ¸
D117
#
4
: # \ Jaca ANDORRA A N D O R R A # ] Perpignan
:
: : : : : : : : LA VELLA # _
: : #\
: : : :
# \
# \
the Vieux Port (Old Port), rays and fearsome
TRIP HIGHLIGHT including the lacy Tour sharks, teeth-gnashing
1 La Rochelle de la Lanterne (rue sur les piranhas, timid turtles
Known as La Ville Murs; adult/child €6/free, 3 and the bizarre half-
towers €8.50/free; h10am-
newt. Equally fun for
Blanche (the White City), 1pm & 2.15-6.30pm Apr-Sep, to families is the Musée
La Rochelle is home to 5.30pm Oct-Mar), that once Maritime (Maritime Museum;
luminous limestone fa- served to protect the %05 46 28 03 00; www.
cades, arcaded walkways, town at night in times of museemaritimelarochelle.
half-timbered houses and war. Scale their sturdy fr; place Bernard Moitessier;
ghoulish gargoyles glow- stone heights for fabulous adult/child €8/5; h10am-7pm
ing in the bright coastal city and coastal views. Jul & Aug, to 6.30pm Apr-Jun &
sunlight. One of France’s La Rochelle’s number- FRANCE
foremost seaports from one tourist attraction with its fleet of boats to
the 14th to the 17th cen- is its state-of-the-art explore; and a trip out
turies, it remains a great aquarium (www.aquarium- to sea with Croisières
seafaring centre and one larochelle.com; quai Louis Inter-Îles (%08 25 13 55 00;
of France’s most attrac- Prunier; adult/child €16/12; www.inter-iles.com; cours des
tive cities. h9am-11pm Jul & Aug, 9am- Dames) to admire the un-
There are several
defensive towers around 8pm Apr-Jun & Sep, 10am-8pm usual iceberg of an island
Sep, shorter hours rest of year), 10 ATLANTIC TO MED
Oct-Ma # \r) with UFO-like fortress, Fort Boyard.
4 4 4 4 444 4 p151
# \ # \ # \
4 4 4 4
4 444 4444
4 4 444
A10 toll road it’s 187km (about
# e 0 0 100 miles 200 km The Drive » Using the main
S W I T Z E R L A N D 2½ hours) to St-Émilion. Turn off
the A10 at exit 39a, signed for
44 4 4444
44444444444444444
4
444 444
/ · Annecy # \ # ] Libourne. Skirt this industrial
# ]
N83
# \
Chamonix-
Lyon Ain Rhône # \ Mont-Blanc # ^ 44 # \ town and follow the D243 into
# ^ Aosta St-Émilion.
4444444
4
444 444 4444444444444444444444
St- / · Chambéry # \ 44444444 # ]
A47
Étienne Isère Tarentaise
# \ / ·
N6
/ · Alpe Turin
4 4 4 4
444444444444444444
N82
Grenoble # ] d'Huez 4 4 444 # ^ # ]
Drac / · # \ # ] # \
A49
Rhône
444
Valence # ] Parc Naturel Sestriere # ] # ] Pinerolo
# \
Régional du 4 LINK
N94
Privas # \ / · Vercors / · I T A L Y # \ YOUR
A7
TRIP
0 ¸ Rhône / · Cuneo Mondovi # ] # \ The Pyrenees
# ]
# \
D104
A51
ALPES DE
D2205
# \
# ] HAUTE-PROVENCE 0 ¸ b Take a side trip east
m K
GARD PROVENCE # \ Les ALPES-MARITIMES F G or west from the A64 to
12
Nîmes # ] Avignon Mees further explore this majestic
# ] Arles 0 ¸ Nice 10 # ] # # \ # # _ mountain landscape.
D6185
# 7 # ] # H Aix-en # ] # # ]
#
Provence St-Maximin-la-
9
Parc Naturel p150 # \ Ste-Baume # MONACO c Riviera Crossing
Régional # \ / · Cannes Starting from Nice,
A8
de Camargue : Antibes
# ^ #
Marseille # this drive takes you further
8
# \
Cassis # ] along the coast through the
Toulon glitzy, glam French Riviera.
M E D I T E R R A N E A N
S E A
145
Guided tours of the
TRIP HIGHLIGHT town (adult/child from 3 Biarritz
2 St-Émilion €8/free) and surrounding Biarritz is as ritzy as
Built of soft honey- chateaux are run by the its name suggests. This
tourist office (%05 57 55 28
coloured rock, medieval 28; www.saint-emilion-tourisme. coastal town boomed as
St-Émilion produces com; place des Créneaux; a resort in the mid-19th
some of the world’s finest h9.30am-7.30pm Jul & Aug, century, when regularly
red wines. Visiting this shorter hours rest of year); visited by Napoléon III
pretty town, and partak- reserve ahead in season. and his Spanish-born
ing in some of the tours Several tours include tast- wife, Eugénie. Along
and activities on offer, ings and vineyard visits. its rocky coastline are
is the easiest way to get architectural hallmarks
under the (grape) skin of 54 p151 of this golden age, and the
Bordeaux wine produc- belle-époque and art-deco
tion. The Maison du The Drive » Leave St-Émilion eras that followed.
on the D243 to Libourne, cross
Vin de St-Émilion (www. the town, then pick up the D1089 Biarritz is all about
maisonduvinsaintemilion.com; signposted ‘Agen, Bergerac, its fashionable beaches,
place Pierre Meyrat; h9.30am- Bordeaux’. Continue on the N89 especially the central
12.30pm & 2-6.30pm) runs towards Bordeaux until you see Grande Plage and Plage
wine-tasting classes and signs for the A630 toll road – at Miramar. In the heat of
FRANCE 10 ATLANTIC TO MED
has a superb exhibition which point sit back and hit summer you’ll find them
covering wine essentials. cruise control for the remaining packed end to end with
226km to Biarritz. Count 240km sun-loving bathers.
and about 2½ hours in all.
DETOUR:
ÎLE DE RÉ
Start: 1 La Rochelle (p145)
Bathed in the southern sun, drenched in a languid atmosphere and scattered with
villages of green-shuttered, whitewashed buildings with red Spanish-tile roofs, Île
de Ré is one of the most delightful places on the west coast of France. The island
spans just 30km from its most easterly and westerly points, and just 5km at its
widest section. But take note: the secret’s out and in high season it can be almost
impossible to move around and even harder to find a place to stay.
On the northern coast about 12km from the toll bridge that links the island
to La Rochelle is the quaint fishing port of St-Martin-de-Ré, the island’s main
town. Surrounded by 17th-century fortifications (you can stroll along most of the
ramparts) constructed by Vauban, the port town is a mesh of streets filled with craft
shops, art galleries and sea-spray ocean views.
The island’s best beaches are along the southern edge – including unofficial
naturist beaches at Rivedoux Plage and La Couarde-sur-Mer – and around the
western tip (northeast and southeast of Phare-des-Baleines). Many beaches are
bordered by dunes that have been fenced off to protect the vegetation.
From La Rochelle it’s 24km and a half-hour drive to St-Martin-de-Ré via the toll
bridge, Pont de l’Île de Ré (www.pont-ile-de-re.com; return ticket €16 mid-June to
mid-September, €8 rest of the year).
146
The Drive » It’s 208km (2¾ tive pink stone used in
hours) to the village of Gavarnie. many of its buildings. TRIP HIGHLIGHT
Take the A63 and A64 toll Toulouse’s magnificent 6 Carcassonne
roads to exit 11, then the D940 main square, place du
to Lourdes (worth a look for Capitole, is the city’s Perched on a rocky
its religious Disneyland feel). literal and metaphorical hilltop and bristling with
Continue south along D913 and heart. To its south is the zigzagging battlements,
D921. stout walls and spiky tur-
city’s Vieux Quartier (Old
Quarter), a tangle of lanes rets, from afar the forti-
fied city of Carcassonne is
4 Cirque de and leafy squares that beg most people’s perfect idea
exploration on foot. Then,
Gavarnie of course, there are the of a medieval castle. Four
The Pyrenees doesn’t soothing twists and turns million tourists a year
lack impressive scenery, of the Garonne River and stream through its city
but your first sight of mighty Canal du Midi – gates to explore La Cité
the Cirque de Gavarnie laced with footpaths and (enter via Porte Narbonnaise or FRANCE 10 ATLANTIC TO MED
is guaranteed to raise a likewise clearly created Porte d’Aude; h24hr), visit
gasp. This breathtaking with stretching your legs Château Comtal (place du
mountain amphitheatre in mind. Château, La Cité; adult/child
is one of the region’s most The sky’s the limit €8.50/free; h10am-6.30pm
famous sights, sliced by at the fantastic Cité de Apr-Sep, 9.30am-5pm Oct-Mar)
thunderous waterfalls l’Espace (www.cite-espace. and ogle at stunning
and ringed by sawtooth com/en; av Jean Gonord; adult views along the city’s
peaks, many of which top €21-25.50, child €15.50-19; ancient ramparts.
out at above 3000m. h10am-7pm daily Jul & Aug, to The Drive » Continue down
There are a couple of 5pm or 6pm Sep-Dec & Feb-Jun, the A61 to the Catalan-flavoured
large car parks in the closed Mon Feb, Mar & Sep-Dec, town of Narbonne, where you join
village of Gavarnie, from closed Jan). Since WWII, the A9 (very busy in summer)
where it’s a two-hour walk Toulouse has been the and head east to Nîmes. From
to the amphitheatre. Wear centre of France’s aero- there the A54 will take you into
Arles. Allow just over two hours to
proper shoes, as snow space industry, developing cover the 223km and expect lots
lingers along the trail into many important aircraft of toll booths.
early summer. Between (including Concorde
Easter and October you and the Airbus A380) as
can go by horse or donkey well as components for 7 Arles
(around €25 return). many international space Arles’ poster boy is the
programs. The museum
The Drive » Retrace your celebrated impressionist
steps to Lourdes, then take the brings this interstellar painter Vincent van Gogh.
N21 toward Tarbes and veer industry vividly to life If you’re familiar with his
onto the A64 to reach Toulouse. through hands-on exhibits work, you’ll be familiar
It takes nearly three hours to including a shuttle simula- with Arles: the light, the
cover the 228km. tor, a planetarium, a 3D colours, the landmarks
cinema and a simulated and the atmosphere, all
observatory.
5 Toulouse faithfully captured. But
long before Van Gogh ren-
Elegantly sited at the con- 54 p151 dered this grand Rhône
fluence of the Canal du The Drive » It’s an easy 95km River locale on canvas, the
Midi and Garonne River, (one hour) down the fast A61 to Romans valued its worth.
the vibrant southern Carcassonne. Notice how the Today it’s the reminders
city of Toulouse is often vegetation becomes suddenly of Rome that are probably
known as La Ville Rose, much more Mediterranean about the town’s most memora-
15 minutes out of Toulouse.
a reference to the distinc- ble attractions.
147
WHY THIS IS A NADIIA GERBISH / SHUTTERSTOCK ©
GREAT TRIP
NICOLA WILLIAMS,
WRITER
DELPIXEL / SHUTTERSTOCK ©
I’m a sucker for the big blue and
fine wine, so this seafaring trip is
right up my alley. Feasting on fresh
oysters on the seashore aside, I
strongly advise lingering over lunch
at La Terrasse Rouge (p151)
near St-Émilion. This spectacular
vineyard restaurant was borne out
of Jean Nouvel’s designer revamp
of Château La Dominique’s wine
cellars: dining on its uber-chic
terrace overlooking a field of dark-
red glass pebbles is the ultimate
French road-trip reward.
Top & Left: St-Emilion
Right: Cathedral & MuCEM, Marseilles
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