Lonely Planet Europe’s Best Trips (Travel Guide)

Douro Valley
Vineyard Trails 32
PABLO RODRIGO GARCÍA-ARÁEZ / GETTY IMAGES ©






The Douro is a little drop of heaven. Uncork this region on Porto’s
doorstep and you’ll soon fall head over heels in love with its
terraced vineyards, wine estates and soul-stirring vistas.


TRIP HIGHLIGHTS
5–7 DAYS
358KM / 222 MILES
193 km GREAT FOR…
Pinhão
Wine tastings and Douro HJ
171 km cruises on a gorgeous
bend in the river
Quinta do Crasto m K
Eyrie-like winery in the BEST TIME TO GO
Unesco-listed Alto Miranda do Douro
Douro region # Spring for wildflowers,
early autumn for the
grape harvest.
l L Peso da
# 7
Regua # ESSENTIAL
4
#
#
# # # 8 I PHOTO
#
# 1
#
Vila Nova The staggering view of
de Foz Côa the Douro vineyards
from Casal de Loivos
miradouro.
K BEST FOR
Porto Casal de Loivos FOODIES
Medieval core, historic Gasp-eliciting views of Chef Rui Paula keeps
port lodges galore and Douro vines cascading
a whole lotta soul down the hillsides it regional at DOC, with
vineyard and river views
1 km 197 km from its terrace.
449
Douro Valley Vineyards to the west of Porto

Douro Valley
32 Vineyard Trails



You’re in for a treat. This Unesco World Heritage region is hands down one of
Portugal’s most evocative landscapes, with mile after swoon-worthy mile of
vineyards spooling along the contours of its namesake river and marching up
terraced hillsides. Go for the food, the fabulous wines, the palatial quintas,
the medieval stone villages and the postcard views on almost every corner.


# ^ # \
# \ # \


Braga # \
Esposende Barcelos # ^ Póvoa de
\ # \ # Lanhoso Vila Pouca
Taipas / · # \ de Aguiar
# \ A7
Fafe
Vila Nova de \ # # \ / ·
Famalicão Guimarães N2
# \ # \
Parque
# \
Natural
Caldas de # \ Felgueiras do Alvão
0 ¸ Vila Real # ^ Visconde de
IC5
Trofa # \ Vizela / · Casa do
N206
Amarante \ # / · Chanceleiros # \
A4
Casal de
N313-1
# \ Maia 0 ¸ Quinta 0 ¸ Loivos
N101
#
8
#
6
\ # do Vallado # #
#
3
5
# \ Penafiel # \ # # #
#
4
#
2
Valongo Río Tâmega Marco de Mesão Frio # \ # # \ # # 7 # \ #
l L 0 ¸ Peso da p452 Pinhão
Porto # Canaveses H
#
# 1
N108
Régua
Nova
# \ 0 ¸ # \ Rio Douro Lamego # \ Quinta do Quinta
Vila Nova N108 / · Crasto
N2
de Gaia # \
Castelo # \
Espinho \ # de Paiva Tarouca 0 ¸
/ · N226 # \
IP3
Moimenta
ATLANTIC da Beira
OCEAN # \ Arouca
Castro Daire # \ Sernancelhe # \
A1
Ovar # / · 0 ¸
N329
\
Aguiar da Beira
440 km to São Pedro # \
33
‚ F G do Sul
# \

hillside. Many open their to British-run Taylor’s
barrel-lined cellars for (%223 742 800; www.taylor.
TRIP HIGHLIGHT
guided tours and tastings pt; Rua do Choupelo 250; tour
1 Porto – usually of three differ- €5; h10am-6pm Mon-Fri, to
Before kick-starting your ent ports – that will soon 5pm Sat & Sun) (don’t miss
road trip, devote a day or help you tell your tawny the immense 100,000L
two to Porto, snuggled on from your late-bottled barrel), Graham’s (%223
banks of the Río Douro, vintage. Top billing goes 776 484; www.grahams-port.
where life is played out
in the mazy lanes of LINK
the medieval Ribeira YOUR
district. From here, the
double-decker Ponte de TRIP
Dom Luís I, built by an Alentejo Historic
apprentice of Gustav Eif- x & Algarve u Castilla y León
fel in 1877, takes the river Beaches
in its stride. Cross it to For a taste of historic
reach Vila Nova de Gaia, Do one trip in reverse: Spain, head east from PORTUGAL 32 DOuRO VALLEY VINEYARD TRAILS
where grand 17th-century about four hours south Miranda do Douro across
port lodges march up the from Porto are great the border to Tordesillas,
beaches and towns with then southeast to Madrid
Moorish heritage. (about 3 hours).


# e 0 0 20 miles 40 km Miranda
m K #
# \
do Douro
# 10
#
\
Mirandela # \
# \
/ · / · Duas
A4
Igrejas
IP2
to
Murça 45 km
# \ F G
Mogadouro 30
Lodões / · # \
# \ IC5 ‚
# \ Alijó
0 ¸ Trabanca # \
# \ Tua N102 Fornos
# \
0 ¸ Rio Douro
N222
Pinhão # \ São João de # \ Pocinho Parque
Pesqueira S P A I N
Natural do Douro
International
# \ Duero
# # \ Saucelle
#
9
Vila Nova Barca # \ Rio # \ Vilagudino
de Foz Côa de Alva
Marialva / · # \ Lumbrales
IP2
Figueira
# \ # \ de Castelo
0 ¸ Rodrigo San Felices
# \
N102
# \ de los
Gallegos
Martin de Yeltes
Trancoso Pinhel # \
# \ # \ 451
# \
# \

com; Rua do Agro 141; tour demarcated port-wine The Drive » From Peso da
€5-20; h9.30am-6pm Apr- area. It grew into a major Régua, take the first exit onto
Oct, to 5.30pm Nov-Mar) and port-wine entrepôt in the the N2 at the roundabout at
Calém (%223 746 672; www. 18th century. While not the end of Rua Dr Manuel de
calem.pt; Avenida Diogo Leite as charming as its set- Arriaga, then the third exit at
344; Cellar visit & tasting adult/ ting, the town is worth the next roundabout to join the
N313. Turn right onto the N313-1
reduced/under 12 €5/2.50/ visiting for its Museu do when you see the yellow sign to
free; h10am-6.30pm). Douro (www.museudodouro. Quinta do Vallado. It’s around a
pt; Rua Marqués de Pombal; 5km drive.
The Drive » There are quicker
ways of getting from A to B, adult/concession €6/3;
sure, but for immersion in Douro h10am-6pm daily May-Oct,
wine country, you can’t beat this Tue-Sun Nov-Apr). Housed in 3 Quinta do Vallado
three-hour (137km) drive east a beautifully converted Ah, what views! The
on the N108. The serpentine riverside warehouse, vineyards spread pic-
road shadows the Río Douro the museum whisks
from Porto to Peso da Régua, you through the entire turesquely before you
with views of hillsides combed wine spectrum, from from Quinta do Vallado
with vines, little chapels and (%254 318 081, 254 323
woodlands spilling down to the impressionist landscapes 147; www.quintadovallado.
sparkling river. to the remains of an com; Vilarinho dos Freires;
old flat-bottomed port r €120-180; paWs),
hauler. Down at the a glorious 70-hectare
2 Peso da Régua pier, you’ll find frequent winery. It brings together
Terraced hills scaled 50-minute boat trips to five rooms in an old
with vines like a dragon’s Pinhão, offered by Tomaz stone manor and eight
backbone rise around do Douro (%222 081 935; swank rooms in an ultra-
PORTUGAL 32 DOuRO VALLEY VINEYARD TRAILS
riverside Peso da Régua. www.viadouro-cruzeiros. modern slate building,
The sun-bleached town com; cruises from €10), for decked out with chestnut
is the region’s largest, instance. and teak wood, each
abutting the Río Douro 54 p457 complete with a balcony.
at the western end of the They all share a gorgeous
pool. Guests get a free
tour of the winery, with a
tasting. Have a fine wine-
DETOUR: paired meal and stay the
DOC night. The staff can also
help arrange activities
Start: 2 Peso da Régua like cycling, hiking,
Architect Miguel Saraiva’s ode to clean-lined, glass- fishing or canoeing – just
walled minimalism, DOC (%254 858 123; www.ruipaula. ask.
com; Folgosa; mains €27.50-29; h12.30-3.30pm & 7.30- The Drive » From Quinta do
11pm) is headed up by Portuguese star chef Rui Paula. Vallado, the N313-2, CM1258
Its terrace peering out across the river is a stunning and N322-2 take you on a
backdrop. Dishes give a pinch of imagination to 29km drive east through the
seasonal, regional flavours, from fish açordas (stews) curvaceous wine terraces of the
to game and wild mushrooms – all of which are Alto Douro, past immaculately
paired with carefully selected wines from the cellar. tended rows of vines and chalk-
It’s in Folgosa, midway between Peso da Régua and white hamlets, with tantalising
glimpses of the river below.
Pinhão, on the south side of the river. Take the N2 After Gouvinhas, the wiggling
south of Peso da Régua, then hook onto the N222 road takes you south to Quinta
heading east. do Crasto.

452

com; s €134-152, d €152-173;
Ws) is simply stunning.
TRIP HIGHLIGHT TRIP HIGHLIGHT
Besides plush lodgings
4 Quinta do Crasto in a beautifully restored 7 Pinhão
Perched like an eyrie on 19th-century manor, it Encircled by terraced
a promontory above the offers romantic grounds, hillsides that yield
Río Douro and a spec- a pool gazing out across some of the world’s best
tacular ripple of terraced vines rolling into the dis- port – and some damn
vineyards, Quinta do tance, a restaurant, wine good table wines too –
Crasto (%934 920 024, 254 tours, tastings and some little Pinhão sits on a
920 020; www.quintadocrasto. of the region’s top walk- particularly lovely bend
pt; Sabrosa, Gouvinhas; tours ing trails – the longest of of the Río Douro. Winer-
€18; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri) which is 2½ hours. ies and their competing
quite literally takes your The Drive » It’s a 10km drive signs dominate the scene
breath away. The winery east from Quinta Nova to Casa and even the delight-
is beautifully set amid do Visconde de Chanceleiros ful train station has
the lyrical landscapes of on the CM1268, tracing the azulejos (tiles) depict-
the Alto Douro, a Unesco contours of the emerald-green ing the grape harvest. PORTUGAL 32 DOuRO VALLEY VINEYARD TRAILS
World Heritage site. Stop vines unfurling around you The town, though cute,
by for a tour and tasting holds little of interest,
or lunch. It produces but makes a fine base for
some of the country’s 6 Casa do Visconde exploring the surround-
best drops – reds that de Chanceleiros ing vineyards. From
are complex, spicy and Fancy staying the night here, you can also cruise
smooth, with wild berry up in the hills of the sub- upriver into the heart of
aromas, and whites that lime Alto Douro? Casa the Alto Douro aboard a
are fresh, with a mineral do Visconde de Chance- traditional flat-bottomed
nose and tang of citrus leiros (%254 730 190; www. port boat with Douro-a-
and apples. Designed by chanceleiros.com; s €130-140, Vela (%918 793 792; www.
Portuguese architect Ed- d €135-170; pWs) is douro-a-vela.pt; 1hr cruise
uardo Souto Moura, the a gorgeous 250-year- €25). Catch the boat from
plunge pool here appears old manor house, with the Folgosa do Douro
to nosedive directly into spacious standard and pier. Or rewind to the
the valley below. superior rooms featuring early days of viniculture
The Drive » From Quinta do classic decor and patios. on a guided tour followed
Crasto it’s an easy 4km drive The expansive views of by a tasting at Quinta
east along the mellow banks of the valley and lush ter- Nova Wine Museum &
the Río Douro to Quinta Nova via raced gardens steal the Shop (Aris Douro; %254 730
the N322-2 and CM1268. show, but so does the out- 030; www.quintanova.com;
door pool, tennis court, Largo da Estacão 14; tours &
Jacuzzi, and sauna in a tastings €5; htours 11am,
5 Quinta Nova wine barrel. Delicious 3pm & 5pm Mon-Sat, 11am &
Set on a ridge, surround- dinners (€38) are served 3pm Sun Apr-Oct).
ed by 120 hectares of on request. 54 p457
ancient vineyards, over- The Drive » A gentle 7.5km
looking the Douro river drive east along the M590, with The Drive » Veer slightly
with mountains layered spirit-lifting views across the west of Pinhão on the N323
in the distance, Quinta terraced vineyards, the deep- and turn right onto the M585,
following the sign for Casal de
Nova (%254 730 420, 254 green Douro and family-run Loivos, 4.5km away. The country
730 430; www.quintanova. quintas, brings you to Pinhão. road that weaves up through

453

WHY THIS IS A SHAUN EGAN / GETTY IMAGES ©
GREAT TRIP
KERRY CHRISTIANI,
AUTHOR
Step down a gear and enjoy the
sweet life. Shadowing the bends in
DANITA DELIMONT / GETTY IMAGES ©
the river from Porto to the Spanish
border, the Douro plays up romance,
with its steeply climbing vines, giddy
views and meandering roads leading
to chalk-white hamlets, barrel-lined
cellars and historic quintas, where
fine meals and Portugal’s best
wines are served to the backbeat of
cicadas.


Top: A boat cruises past the Douro’s terraced vineyards
Left: Decorative tiles at Pinhão’s train station
Right: The Río Douro framed by surrounding hills


454

the vines, with the river below,
later becomes the cobbled
Rua da Calçada, passing
socalcos (stone-walled terraced
vineyards).

TRIP HIGHLIGHT
MICHAEL MELFORD / GETTY IMAGES ©
8 Casal de Loivos
It’s a tough call, but
Casal de Loivos has
hands down one of the
most staggeringly beauti-
ful views in the region.
From the miradouro
(viewpoint), the uplifting
vista reduces the Douro
to postcard format, tak-
ing in the full sweep of PORTUGAL 32 DOuRO VALLEY VINEYARD TRAILS
its stone-walled terraced
vineyards, stitched into
the hillsides and fringing
the sweeping contours of
the valley, and the river
scything through them.
To maximise on these
dreamy views, stay the
night at Casa de Casal
de Loivros (%254 732 149;
www.casadecasaldeloivos.com;
s/d €90/110; is). The
elegant house has been in
this winemaking family
for nearly 350 years. The
halls are enlivened by
museum-level displays of
folkloric dresses, and the
perch – high above the
Alto Douro – is spec-
tacular. Swim laps in the
pool while peering down
across the vines spread-
ing in all directions.
The Drive » Backtrack on the
N323, then pick up the N222
south of the river for the 64km
drive southeast to Vila Nova de
Foz Côa. The winding road takes
you through some picture-book
scenery, with whitewashed
hamlets and quintas
punctuating vines, orchards and
olive groves.
455

derstand just how close ros, visit the Museu da
9 Vila Nova de these aeons-old drawings Terra de Miranda (Praça
Foz Côa came to disappearing. de Dom João III; admission €2,
Sun morning free; h9am-1pm
Welcome to the heart of The Drive » Wrap up your & 2-6pm Wed-Sun, 2-6pm Tue).
the Douro’s terra quente road trip by driving 120km If you’d rather get a taste
(hot land). This once- northeast to Miranda do Douro of the rugged nature on
via the N102, IP2 and IC5. The
remote, whitewashed closer the Spanish border, the Miranda’s doorstep,
town has been on the more you’ll notice the shift in Europarques (%273
map since the 1990s, scenery, with lushness giving 432 396; www.europarques.
when researchers, during way to more arid, rugged terrain, com; adult/child under 10yr
a proposed project for speckled with vineyards and €16/8; htrips 4pm daily,
a dam, stumbled across olive groves. plus 11am Sat & Sun) runs
an astounding stash of 1½-hour river boat trips
Paleolithic art. Thou- along a dramatic gorge.
sands of these mysterious a Miranda do Douro Boats leave from beside
rock engravings speckle A fortified frontier town the dam on the Portu-
the Río Côa valley. Come hunkering down on guese side. Stop by the
to see its world-famous the precipice of the Río Parque Natural do Douro
gallery of rock art at the Douro canyon, Miranda Internacional Office
Parque Arqueológico do do Douro was long a bul- (%273 431 457; Largo do
Vale do Côa (www.arte-coa. wark of Portugal’s ‘wild Castelo; h9.30am-12.30pm
pt; Av Gago Coutinho 19 A, Foz east’. While its crumbling & 2-5.30pm Mon-Fri) for the
Côa; park €10, museum €5 castle and handsomely inside scoop on hiking
(on Sun afternoons €1), park severe 16th-century among the woods and
& museum €12; hmuseum cathedral still lend an air towering granite cliffs
PORTUGAL 32 DOuRO VALLEY VINEYARD TRAILS
10am-1.30pm & 2-5.30pm of medieval charm, mod- of the 832-sq-km park,
Tue-Sun, park 9am-12.30pm ern-day Miranda now home to bird species
& 2-5.30pm Tue-Sun). The receives weekend Span- including black storks,
three sites open to the ish tourists, as opposed Egyptian vultures,
public include Canada do to repelling Castillian peregrine falcons, golden
Inferno, with departures attacks. For an insight on eagles and Bonelli’s
at around 9.30am from the region’s border cul- eagles.
the park museum in Vila ture, including ancient
Nova de Foz Côa, which rites such as the ‘stick 54 p457
is the ideal place to un- dancing’ of the paulitei-



















456

Eating & Sleeping


winery runs hour-long tours (€3) followed by
Peso da Régua 2 tastings at 11am daily. The bright, appealing
rooms straddle different buildings and private
5 Castas e Pratos Portuguese €€€ villas are available for weekly rental. Three-
(%254 323 290; www.castasepratos.com; course dinners (€25) are perfectly matched
Av José Vasques Osório; mains €19.50-22.50; with wines, and during the autumn harvest you
h10.30am-11pm) The coolest dining room can even join in with grape-treading traditions.
in town is set in a restored wood-and-stone 4 Vintage House Boutique Hotel €€€
railyard warehouse with exposed original
timbers. You can order grilled alheira sausage or (%254 730 230; www.csvintagehouse.
octopus salad from the tapas bar downstairs or com; Lugar da Ponte; s €140-210, d €180-
have the seabass on seafood fumet with saffron 285; paiWs) Occupying a string of
filaments, or kid goat in port with fava beans in 19th-century buildings right on the river, this
the mezzanine. luxurious sleep is actually very modern once
you get past the distinctly English facade (a
4 Hotel Régua Douro Hotel €€ reminder of the key role Brits played in the port PORTUGAL 32 DOuRO VALLEY VINEYARD TRAILS
(%254 320 700; www.hotelreguadouro.pt; trade). This is where BB King stayed when he
Largo da Estação; s €91-96, d €112.50-152.50; rocked the Douro. All rooms have terraces or
paiWs) This industrial- sized hotel balconies with river views.
sits by the river and is steps from the train
station. It has plush, carpeted rooms in ruby (or
is that tawny?) colour schemes and windows Miranda do Douro a
overlooking the Douro. The pool is much Portuguese €€
appreciated on hot days. 5 São Pedro
(%273 431 321; Rua Mouzinho de Albuquerque;
mains €7.50-12.50; hnoon-3pm daily, 7-10pm
Pinhão 7 Tue-Sun) This spacious restaurant, just in from
the main old-town gate, serves up a fine posta á
5 Veladouro Portuguese € São Pedro (grilled veal steak dressed with garlic
(%254 738 166; Rua de Praia 3; mains €6-8; and olive oil). The €11 tourist menu comes with
h10am-11pm Mon-Sat) Simple Portuguese soup, main, dessert, wine and coffee.
food, such as wood-grilled meats, is served 4 Hotel Parador
inside this quaint schist building or outside Santa Catarina Hotel €€
under a canopy of vines. From the train station,
turn left and go along the main road for 150m, (%273 431 005; www.hotelparadorsantacatarina.
then left again under a railway bridge, and right pt; Largo da Pousada; s/d/tr/q €50/80/85/100;
at the river. paW) Every guest gets a private veranda
with spectacular views of the gorge at this
4 Quinta de la Rosa B&B €€ luxurious hotel perched on the canyon’s edge.
(%254 732 254; www.quintadelarosa.com; d Rooms are a handsome mix of traditional and
€80-120, ste €120-140, villa per week €750- contemporary, with hardwood floors, flat-screen
1800) Sitting on the banks of the Douro, 2km TVs and large marble bathrooms. The attached
west of Pinhão, this charming vineyard and restaurant is the most upmarket in town.









457

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JUAMPITER / GETTY IMAGES ©
Alentejo &
Algarve Beaches 33








On this sunny coastal drive you’ll experience some of Europe’s
finest beaches and explore the picturesque, formerly Moorish
towns of Portugal’s south.


TRIP HIGHLIGHTS
4–6 DAYS
360 KM / 225 MILES
70 km 310 km
Aljezur Faro GREAT FOR…
Pretty castle-topped Evocative old town,
town, gateway to estuary trips and a HJG
glorious beaches bone chapel
Vila Nova de
l L # BEST TIME TO GO
Milfontes
Good all year, but
Zambujeira crowded in July and
do Mar
# August.
I ESSENTIAL
m K
# # PHOTO
# # #
4
# Silves # Cacela The rock formations at
Praia da Marinha.
Velha
#
#
# #
9
# # #
15
# # #
# # K BEST FOR
8
WILDLIFE
The Sagres area offers
Sagres Lagos great birdwatching
End-of-the-world cliffs Handsome, hedonistic and boat trips to view
and an impressive town with great beaches, dolphins and perhaps
fortress restaurants and nightlife whales.
145 km 180 km
459
Carvoeiro Rock arches at Praia da Marinha

Alentejo &
33 Algarve Beaches



Portugal’s southern coasts offer a Mediterranean ideal, with fragrances of
pine, rosemary, wine and grilling fish drifting over some absolutely stunning
beaches. Only this isn’t the Med, it’s the Atlantic, so add serious surfable
waves, important maritime history and great wildlife-watching opportunities
to the mix. This drive takes in some of the finest beaches in the region, and
explores the intriguing towns, which conserve their tight-knit Moorish street
plans.
# \

l L # \ ‚ Río Sado / ·
Cercal
451 km to
F G
IP2
Vila Nova de Milfontes # 32 Castro
# 1
Verde \ #
Parque 0 ¸
N263
Natural Río Mira Ourique \ # / ·
N2
ATLANTIC do Sudoeste IP1 / ·
OCEAN Alentejano e
Costa # \ Ribeira de Oeiras
Vicentina Odemira 0 ¸
/ · Barragem N264
IC4
de Santa
#
Zambujeira do Mar # # \ São Río Mira # \ Clara # \ Almodôvar
2
Odeceixe 0¸ Teotónio Sta Clara- / · Río Mira
Praia de
a-Velha
N120
IC1
# Ù
Odeceixe# Ribeira de Seixe
#
3
Esteveira #\ Fonte Santa
Praia da # Ù (346m) Ribeirade Odelouca Ameixial # \
Amoreira # \ Rogil R Fóla # \ # \
Praia do # Ù # Ù (902m) Monchique São Marcos Cachopo # \
Monte Clérigo # Aljezur R \ # da Serra Ribeira de Arade
4
#
Praia da # Marmelete # \ # \ (773m) São Bartolomeu
RPicota
# Ù
5
Arrifana # # \ Alfambras Casais Barragem de Messines Pena Barranco
# \
do Arade
H
# Ù #
Praia de # # R Chiqueiro # \ Alte # \ # \ # \ do Velho
6
Vale Figueira 0 ¸ p466 (247m) / · Aldeia da Tôr
0 ¸
IP1
#
# \
11
Carrapateira# N120 0 ¸ N266 # Silves Algoz Tunes Ribeira de Algibre São Brás
# 7
de Alportel
Bensafrim # \ N125 Lagoa # \ # \ Ferreiras Loulé # \ Igreja de # \
10
#
Raposeira Almadena Alvor # \ # # \ # \ # \ Pera # \ 0 ¸ São Lourenço
de Matos
N125
Budens # Portimão # Porches # \ Estói
#
12
9
#
# Ù Quarteira #
#
13
14
Vila do Bispo # \ # \ # \ # \ & Praia \ # # # \ # Moncarapacho # \
# \ # \ Lagos Carvoeiro # \ # \
Figueira Burgau da Rocha Albufeira Praia da Almancil # \ : # \
Falésia
:::: : : São #
::::: #
15
Cabo
: : :
de São # Jão da : : : : : Faro ::::: : : : : : : : Olhão
#
# Ù Sagres
8
:::: :
:
Vicente Venda : : : : : : : : : : :::: : : :
: : : : :
: :
: :

Natural do Sudoeste Zambujeira attracts a
1 Vila Nova Alentejano e Costa Vi- backpacker, surfy crowd,
de Milfontes centina and is still a port though in August the
town is a party place and
(Hannibal is said to have
One of the loveliest sheltered here) alongside hosts the massive music
towns along this stretch a lovely, sand-edged limb fest, Festa do Sudoeste.
of the coast, Vila Nova of estuary. The high-season crowds
de Milfontes has an Milfonte’s narrow obscure Zambujeira’s
attractive, whitewashed lanes, tiny plazas and out-of-season charms:
centre, sparkling beaches beach harbour varied fresh fish in family-run
nearby and a laid-back eating and drinking restaurants, blustering
population who couldn’t options. The town beach cliff-top walks and a dra-
imagine living anywhere is sheltered but can get matic, empty coast.
else. Milfontes remains busy; the best strand in
much more low-key than the vicinity is fantastic 4 p469
most resort towns, except Praia do Malhão, backed The Drive » Cutting back to
in August when it’s by rocky dunes and cov- the main road, you then head
packed to the hilt with ered in fragrant scrub, south on the N120. It’s about PORTUGAL 33 ALENTEjO & ALGARVE BEACHES
surfers and sun-seekers. around 7km to the north. 25km to Odeceixe through
It’s located in the middle beautiful coastal woodland.
of the beautiful Parque The Drive » It’s a 30km drive
through protected parkland on
the N393 south to Zambujeira. 3 Odeceixe
Located just as you cross
2 Zambujeira into the Algarve from the
Parque Alentejo, Odeceixe is an
Natural do Vale do Mar
do Guadiana endearing whitewashed
0 ¸ Domingos # \ Enchantingly wild village cascading down
São
IC27
beaches backed by
a hill below a picture-
Mertola Río # \ Moreanes rugged cliffs form the perfect windmill on the
Gundiana Embalse # \ setting of this sleepy southern side of the Ribe-
du Vale do del Chanza
Natural Parque SPAIN seaside village. The main ria de Seixe valley. It’s a
# \ Guadiana
Pomarão # \ El Granado street terminates at the sleepy town, except in
# \ cliff; paths lead to the summer, when it fills with
# \
PORTUGAL attractive sands below. people keen on its nearby
Alcoutim # \ Quieter than Vila Nova, beach. This tongue of
Ribeira da Foupana
# \Vaqueiros Foz de
Odeleite LINK
Ribeira de Odeleite # \
# \ # \ YOUR
Odeleite 301 km to TRIP
28
Azinhal # \ FG
Miguel Anes R Douro Valley Costa del Sol
(229m) Vila Real de ‚ w s
Santo António # \ # \ Vineyard Trails Beyond the
/ · # Cacela Do one trip in reverse: Beaches
#
E01
17
Velha
Pedras # Tavira m K about four hours north For more stunning coast,
16
#
d'el Rei from Vila Nova de Milfontes head east across the
# # \
\ Santa
# \ Luzia is a beautiful river valley Spanish border to Seville
# \ Fuzeta producing sensational ports and on to Nerja (423km) or
and reds. Gibraltar (349km).
# e 0 0 10 miles 461
20 km

sand is winningly set at a a Moorish feel. A collec- to add to the pictur-
rivermouth and flanked tion of cottages winds esqueness, it also sports
by imposing schist cliffs down the hill below a ru- an offshore pinnacle and
(try saying that with a ined 10th-century hilltop a petite traditional fish-
mouthful of porridge...). castle (h24hr). Aljezur is ing harbour. The beach
It’s a particularly good close to some fantastic is wildly popular with
option for families, as beaches, edged by black surfers of all abilities
smaller children can rocks that reach into the and there are several
paddle on the peaceful white-tipped, bracing surf schools in the area.
river side of the strand sea – surfing hot spots. The beach break is reli-
while older kids tackle The handsomest beach able, but there’s also a
the waves on the ocean in the Aljezur area, on right-hand reef break
side. The beach is 3.5km the north side of the pic- that can offer some of
from Odeceixe itself along turesque rivermouth and the Algarve’s best surf-
a charming country road. backed by wild dunes, ing when there’s a big
At the beach, a small is Praia da Amoreira. swell. There’s a small,
village has eating and It’s 9km by road from very popular beachside
surfing options. The Rota Aljezur, signposted off restaurant, and clifftop
Vicentina, a long-distance the main road north of eateries near the ruined
walking path that leads town. fortress up above, which
right to the southwestern The Drive » A couple of offers breathtaking vis-
tip of Portugal, passes kilometres south of Aljezur, tas. Good diving is also
through Odeceixe, and the beaches of Monte Clérigo possible here.
there are great day walks and Arrifana are signposted off The Drive » Praia de Vale
in the vicinity. to the right. At the top of the Figueira is reached by a rough
PORTUGAL 33 ALENTEjO & ALGARVE BEACHES
hill, head right (towards Monte
The Drive » It’s an easy 15km Clérigo) for the full coastal road that runs some 5km
down the N120 to Aljezur, through panorama before winding your from the main road at a point
woodland and open shrubland way south to Arrifana. 10km south of Aljezur. Before
patched with heather and gorse. reaching the turnoff, you must
turn right off the N120 on to
the N268
TRIP HIGHLIGHT 5 Praia da Arrifana
4 Aljezur Arrifana is a seductive
The old part of Aljezur is fingernail-shaped cove 6 Praia de
an attractive village with embraced by cliffs. Just Vale Figueira
One of the remoter west
coast beaches, this is a
long, wide and mag-
TOP TIP: nificent stretch of whitish
FAMILY ATTRACTIONS sand with an ethereal
beauty, backed by strati-
This central section of the Algarve coast is great fied cliffs hazy in the
for families, with numerous water parks and other ocean spray. It’s reached
attractions in the area. Two of the most popular are by a rough, partly paved
Slide & Splash (%282 340 800; www.slidesplash.com; road. The beach, which
Estrada Nacional 125; adult/child 5-10yr €26/19; h10am- has no facilities, faces
5pm, 6pm or 6.30pm daily May-Sep, Mon-Sat Apr & Oct) and due west and has pretty
Aqualand (%282 320 230; www.aqualand.pt; N125, Sítio reliable surf, especially
das Areias, Alcantarilha; adult/child €22.50/16.50; h10am- when a southeaster is
6pm Jul & Aug, to 5pm late Jun & early Sep). blowing. It’s one of those
lonely, romantic beaches

462

that’s great to stroll on
even when the weather’s TOP TIP:
nasty. THE SAGRES EAT
The Drive » Head back to the SCENE
main road and turn right onto A closely packed string of surfer-oriented places on
it. It’s about 10km from here to
Carrapateira. Rua Comandante Matoso offer a bit of everything,
whether it’s a coffee or a caipirinha you’re after: they
are cafes by day, restaurants serving international
7 Carrapateira favourites whatever time hunger drags you away
Surf-central Carra- from the beach, and lively bars by night. Further
down the same street, near the port, is a cluster of
pateira is a tranquil, more traditional Portuguese restaurants.
pretty, spread-out
village offering two
fabulous beaches with remote peninsula amid observe dolphins and
spectacular settings and picturesque seaside scen- seabirds. Mar Ilimitado
turquoise seas. Bordeira ery with a sculpted coast- (%916 832 625; www.marilimi-
is a mammoth swath of line and stern fortress tado.com; Porto da Baleeira) is PORTUGAL 33 ALENTEjO & ALGARVE BEACHES
sand merging into dunes (%282 620 140; http://www. a recommended operator.
2km from the north monumentosdoalgarve.pt/
side of town. Amado, pt/monumentos-do-algarve/ 54 p469
with even better surf, fortaleza-de-sagres; adult/ The Drive » Head back to Vila
is at the southern end. child €3/1.50; h9.30am- do Bispo and turn right onto the
The circuit of both from 8pm May-Sep, to 5.30pm N125 that will take you to Lagos,
Carrapateira (9km) is a Oct-Apr) giving access to a total drive of 34km. Promising
visually stunning hike a stunning clifftop walk. beach detours include Zavial
(or drive), with lookouts It also appeals for its ac- and Salema.
over the beaches and cess to fine beaches and
rocky coves and cliffs water-based activities; TRIP HIGHLIGHT
between them. In town, it’s especially popular
the Museu do Mar e da with surfers. Outside 9 Lagos
Terra (%282 970 000; Rua town, the striking cliffs Touristy, likeable Lagos
de Pescador; adult/child of Cabo de São Vicente lies on a riverbank,
€2.70/1.10; h10am-5pm (hlighthouse complex 10am- with 16th-century
Tue-Sat) is an intriguing 6pm Tue-Sun Apr-Sep, to 5pm walls enclosing the old
place to visit, with great Oct-Mar), the southwest- town’s pretty, cobbled
views. ernmost point of Europe, streets and picturesque
The Drive » The N268 barrels make for an enchanting plazas. A huge range of
restaurants and pumping
on right down to Portugal’s tip at visit, especially at sunset. nightlife add to the allure
Sagres (22km), via the regional Make sure you pop into
centre of Vila do Bispo. the small museum (adult/ provided by fabulous
beaches and numerous
child €1.50/1; h10am-6pm watery activities. Aside
TRIP HIGHLIGHT Tue-Sun Apr-Sep, to 5pm from the hedonism,
8 Sagres Oct-Mar) here, which has there’s plenty of history
interesting background
The small, elongated on the Algarve’s star- here: start by visiting the
village of Sagres, with a ring role in the Age of lovably higgledy-piggledy
rich nautical history, has Discoveries. From Sagres’ Museu Municipal (%282
an appealingly out-of- harbour, worthwhile 762 301; Rua General Alberto
the-way feel. It sits on a excursions head out to da Silveira; adult/concession
€3/1.50; h10am-12.30pm &

463

WHY THIS IS A FERNANDO BUENO / GETTY IMAGES ©
GREAT TRIP
ANDY SYMINGTON,
AUTHOR
I can’t think of a more impressive
series of beaches than those of
Portugal’s south; they are simply
MANFRED GOTTSCHALK / GETTY IMAGES ©
magical. There’s a wild and unspoiled
romance to the seasprayed west-
coast strands, while a succession of
sun-baked golden sands in the south
includes intriguing island beaches
only reachable by boat. I love
wandering the region’s tight-knit old
towns too, trying to detect which
lane that delicious aroma of grilling
fish is coming from...


Top: Sagres at sunset
Left: Faro’s cobbled old town
Right: Sunbathers at Praia da Rocha

2-5.30pm Tue-Sun), which
incorporates the fabulous
baroque church Igreja de
Santo António (Rua General
Alberto da Silveira; adult/child
incl museum €3/1.50; h10am-
12.30pm & 2-5.30pm Tue-Sun).
CHAD EHLERS / GETTY IMAGES ©
Heading out on to the
water is a must, perhaps
cetacean-spotting with
Algarve Dolphins (%282
788 513; www.algarve-
dolphins.com; adult/child from
€35/25), kayaking with
Axessextreme (%919 114
649; www.axessextreme.com;
3hr tour €25) or learning
to surf with Lagos Surf PORTUGAL 33 ALENTEjO & ALGARVE BEACHES
Center (%282 764 734;
www.lagossurfcenter.com; Rua
da Silva Lopes 31; 1-/3-/5-day
courses €55/150/225). East
of town stretch the long,
golden sands of Meia
Praia, backed by worth-
while beach restaurants.
5 p469
The Drive » Portimão is really
just along the coast from Lagos,
but it’s a 24km detour inland via
the N125 in a car.

a Portimão &
Praia da Rocha
The Algarve’s second-
largest town, Portimão’s
history dates back to the
Phoenicians before it
became the region’s fish-
ing and canning hub in
the 19th century. Though
that industry has since
declined, it’s still an in-
triguing port with plenty
of maritime atmosphere.
Learn all about the
town’s fishing heritage in
the excellent Museu de
Portimão (%282 405 230;

465

www.museudeportimao.pt; tightly woven medieval the city’s history and is
Rua Dom Carlos I; adult/child centre. At the top of the built around a fascinat-
€3/free; h2.30-6pm Tue, town, its sizeable castle ing Moorish-era well,
10am-6pm Wed-Sun Sep-Jul, (%282 445 624; adult/conces- complete with spiral
7.30-11pm Tue, 3-11pm Wed- sion/under 10yr €2.80/1.40/ staircase. The old-town
Sun Aug), before strolling free, joint ticket with Museu streets are great for
through the no-frills Municipal de Arqueologia strolling.
sardine restaurants of €3.90; h9am-8pm Jun-Aug, The Drive » Cruise 14km
the fishermen’s quarter to 6.30pm Mar-May & Sep-Nov, straight down the N124-1 to the
of Largo da Barca near to 5pm Dec-Feb) offers great beach at Carvoeiro.
the road bridge. At the views from the ramparts.
southern end of Portimão Originally occupied in
stretches the impressive the Visigothic period, c Carvoeiro
resort beach of Praia da what you see today dates Carvoeiro is a cluster of
Rocha, backed by numer- mostly from the Moorish whitewashed buildings
ous restaurants and era, though the castle rising up from tawny,
nightlife options. was heavily restored in gold and green cliffs and
the 20th century. Below
The Drive » The N125 leads backed by hills. This
you east to the junction with the this, the atmospheric diminutive seaside resort
N124-1, that takes you north to cathedral (Rua da Sé; admis- is prettier and more
Silves. It’s a drive of only 20km. sion €1; h9am-12.30pm & laid-back than many of
2-5pm Mon-Fri, plus 9am-1pm the bigger resorts. The
Sat Jun-Aug) is the region’s town beach is pretty
b Silves best-preserved Gothic but small and crowded,
Silves is one of the church. The Museu however, there are lots
PORTUGAL 33 ALENTEjO & ALGARVE BEACHES
Algarve’s prettiest towns Municipal (%282 444 of other excellent op-
and replete with history: 838; Rua das Portas de Loulé; tions in the area. The
it was an important adult/under 10yr €2.10/ most picturesque of
trading city in Moorish free, joint ticket with Castelo all, with stunning rock
times and preserves a €3.90; h10am-6pm) gives formations, is Praia da
good background on Marinha, best reached by
the Percurso dos Sete
Vales Suspensos clifftop
walk, beginning at Praia
DETOUR: Vale Centianes, 2.3km
MONCHIQUE east of town.
Start: a Portimão & Praia da Rocha 4 p469
(p465) The Drive » Head back
High above the coast, in cooler mountainous to Lagoa to join the N125
woodlands, the picturesque little town of Monchique eastwards. After 25km, turn
makes a lovely detour, with some excellent options right and head towards the
for day hikes, including climbing the Algarve’s highest coast, emerging atop the long
hills, Picota and Fóia, for super views over the coast. beach. It’s a 37km total drive.
Monchique and the surrounding area have some
excellent eating choices and nearby Caldas de
Monchique is a sweet little spa hamlet in a narrow d Praia da Falésia
wooded valley. This long straight strip
The N266 heads north from the N124 north of of sand offers one of the
Portimão; it’s a 27km drive from Lagos to Monchique, region’s most impressive
then another 30km on to Silves. first glimpses of coast as

466

you arrive from above.
It’s backed by stunning
cliffs in white and several LOCAL KNOWLEDGE:
shades of ochre, gouged MERCADO MUNICIPAL
by weather into intrigu-
ing shapes and topped by Faro’s impressive modern market building (%289
typical pines. The areas 897 250; www.mercadomunicipaldefaro.pt; Largo Dr Francisco
near the car parks get Sá Carneiro; hstalls 7am-3pm Mon-Sat; W) makes a
packed in summer (espe- great place to wander, to people-watch, to buy fresh
cially as high tides cover produce, to sit down on a terrace with a coffee, or to
much of the beach), but lunch at one of the several worthwhile eateries.
as the strip is over 3km
long, it’s easy enough to
walk and find plenty of inside, with beautiful built in the 13th century
breathing room. It’s a panels depicting the life but heavily damaged
good beach for strolling, of the Roman-era saint, in the 1755 earthquake.
as the cliffscape con- and his death by barbe- What you see now is a
stantly changes colours cue. In the 1755 earth- variety of Renaissance, PORTUGAL 33 ALENTEjO & ALGARVE BEACHES
and shapes, and there’s a quake, only five tiles fell Gothic and Baroque fea-
surprising range of hardy from the roof. tures. Climb the tower for
seaside plants in the The Drive » Back on the N125, lovely views across the
cracks and crevices. head eastwards and after 12km walled town and estuary
you’re in Faro. islands. These islands
The Drive » Head back to the are part of the Parque
N125 and continue eastwards. Natural da Ria Formosa
Just after bypassing the town TRIP HIGHLIGHT and can be explored on
of Almancil, there’s an exit to
‘Almancil, São Lourenço, praias’. f Faro excellent boat trips run
The church is signposted from The capital of the by Formosamar (%918
here. Algarve has a distinctly 720 002; www.formosamar.
Portuguese feel and com; Clube Naval, Faro Marina).
plenty to see. Its evoca- The cathedral has a
e Igreja de São tive waterside old town small bone chapel, but
Lourenço de Matos is very scenic and has much spookier is the one
It’s worth stopping here several interesting sights, at the Igreja de Nossa
Senhora do Carmo (Largo
to visit the marvel- including the excellent
lous interior of this Museu Municipal (%289 do Carmo; chapel €2; h9am-
1pm & 3-5pm or 6pm Mon-Fri,
small church (Church of 897 400; Praça Dom Afonso 9am-1pm Sat, mass 9am Sun),
St Lawrence; Rua da Igreja; III 14; adult/student €2/1; built from the mortal re-
admission €2; h10am-1pm & h10am-7pm Tue-Fri, 11.30am- mains of over a thousand
3-5pm Mon-Sat), built over a 6pm Sat & Sun Jun-Sep, 10am- monks.
ruined chapel after local 6pm Tue-Fri, 10.30am-5pm
people, while digging a Sat & Sun Oct-May), set in a 5 p469
well, had implored the former convent. The area
saint for help and then is centred around Faro’s The Drive » It’s 35km east
along the N125 to Tavira.
struck water. The result- cathedral (%289 823 018; Despite the road’s proximity
ing baroque masterpiece, www.paroquiasedefaro.org; to the coast, you won’t see
built by fraternal master- Largo da Sé; adult/child €3/ much unless you turn off:
team Antão and Manuel free; h10am-6.30pm Mon-Fri, Fuzeta is a pleasant waterside
Borges, is wall-to-wall to 1pm Sat Jun-Aug, to 5pm village to investigate, with boat
azulejos (painted tiles) Mon-Fri, to 1pm Sat Sep-May), connections to island beaches.


467

Tavira Saturday street bazaar MANFRED GOTTSCHALK / GETTY IMAGES ©

museum of Moorish
g Tavira history are among the h Cacela Velha
Set on either side of the attractions. It’s ideal for Enchanting, small and
PORTUGAL 33 ALENTEjO & ALGARVE BEACHES
meandering Río Gilão, wandering; the warren of cobbled, Cacela Velha
Tavira is a charming cobblestone streets hides is a huddle of white-
town. The ruins of a pretty, historic gardens washed cottages edged
hilltop castle (Largo and shady plazas. Tavira with bright borders, and
is the launching point for
Abu-Otmane; h8am-5pm has a pocket-sized fort,
Mon-Fri, 9am-7pm Sat & Sun, to the stunning, unspoilt orange and olive groves,
5pm winter), now housing beaches of the Ilha de and gardens blazing
a pleasant little botanic Tavira, a sandy island with colour. It sits above
garden, the Renaissance that’s another part of the a gorgeous stretch of
Ria Formosa park.
Igreja da Misericórdia sea, with a character-
(Rua da Galeria; h9am-1pm 4 p469 ful local bar, plus other
& 2-6pm Mon-Sat), and the restaurants, a church
Núcleo Islâmico (Praça The Drive » Cacela Velha and heart-lifting views.
da República 5; adult/child is 14km east of Tavira: head From nearby Fábrica,
along the N125 and you’ll see it
€2/1, joint admission with signposted; it’s 1km off the road. you can get a boat across
Palácio da Galeria €3/1.50; to the splendid Cacela
h10am-12.30pm & 3-6pm mid- Velha beach, which has
Jun–mid-Sep, 10am-4.30pm a low-key LGBT scene in
Tue-Sat mid-Sep–mid-Jun) summer.









468

Eating & Sleeping


secret is out. This buzzing place pulls in the
Zambujeira do Mar 2 crowds – locals, tourists and expats – for its
hearty, top-quality traditional food served in a
4 Herdade do Touril Rural Inn €€ bustling environment at great prices. Plates of
(%937 811 627; www.herdadedotouril.pt; r the day are always reliable, as are the fish dishes.
from €90; is) Four kilometres north of
Zambujeira do Mar is this upmarket quinta
building with rooms and apartments of the Carvoeiro c
fluffy-pillow variety. Some are located within Guesthouse €€
the original building (built in 1826), others 4 O Castelo
are converted farm cottages. The rustic and (%919 729 259; www.ocastelo.net; Rua do
contemporary design of this tranquil place has Casino 59; d without view €65, with view
an African safari-lodge feel – without the lions. €90-110; aW) To the west of the bay, behind
Instead, storks nest in nearby cliffs (note, this the turismo, this standout guesthouse with
area is not safe for children). There’s a seawater a welcoming and justifiably proud owner is PORTUGAL 33 ALENTEjO & ALGARVE BEACHES
pool, a buffet breakfast and free bikes. Good recently renovated and gleamingly well-
taste, good choice. maintained. Rooms are most inviting; some
share a large terrace and sea views (with
sunrises), while one has a private balcony. They
Sagres 8 get all the details right; it’s a stunning outlook
and a lovely, lovely place.
5 A Casínha Portuguese €€
(%917 768 917; www.facebook.com/acasinha.
restaurantesagres; Rua de São Vicente; mains Faro f
€12-18; hdinner Mon, lunch & dinner Tue-Sat) Portuguese, French €€
This cosy terracotta-and-white spot – built on 5 Faz Gostos
the site of the owner’s grandparents’ house – (%289 878 422; www.fazgostos.com; Rua do
serves up some fabulous Portuguese cuisine, Castelo 13; mains €14-20; hlunch & dinner Mon-
including standout barbecued fish, a good Fri, dinner Sat; W) Elegantly housed in the old
variety of cataplanas for two (€34) and arroz de town, this offers high-class French-influenced
polvo (octopus rice). High quality and a pleasant Portuguese cuisine in a spacious, comfortably
atmosphere. handsome dining area. There’s plenty of game,
fish and meat on offer with rich and seductive
4 Pousada sauces, and a few set menus are available.
do Infante Luxury Hotel €€€ CaptionCaptionCaptionCaption
(%218 442 001, 282 620 240; www.pousadas.
pt; Rua Patrão António Faustino; s/d €215/225, Tavira g
superior €260/270; paiWs) This
modern pousada has large rooms in a great 4 Casa Beleza do Sul Apartment €€
setting near the clifftop. Count on green or (%960 060 906; www.casabelezadosul.com;
orange interiors, handsome public areas and Rua Dr Parreira 43; apt €90-120; W) A gorgeous
picture-perfect views from the terraces. A well historic house in central Tavira is showcased
priced, quality pick. to full advantage in this beautiful conversion.
The result is a cute studio and three marvellous
suites of rooms, all different with original
Lagos 9 tiled floors and modern bathrooms. All have a
kitchenette and there are numerous decorative
5 A Forja Portuguese €€ and thoughtful touches that put this well above
(%282 768 588; Rua dos Ferreiros 17; mains the ordinary. Minimum stays apply. Breakfast
€8-15; hnoon-3pm & 6.30-10pm Sun-Fri) The available for an extra charge.

469

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
NEED TO Climate

KNOW Warm to hot summers,
mild winters
# The Douro
GO May–Sep
CURRENCY
Euro (€)
The Beiras
LANGUAGE GO Jun & Sep #
Portuguese

VISAS
Generally not required for
Lisbon
stays of up to 90 days (not GO May & Jun #
at all for members of EU # The Alentejo
GO May–Sep
or Schengen countries).
Some nationalities need a
Schengen visa.
The Algarve
FUEL GO Jun & Sep #
Petrol stations (usually
open 24 hours) can be
found along major highways.
Expect to pay €1.35 to €1.80
per litre. When to Go
High Season (Jul & Aug)
RENTAL CARS » Accommodation prices increase 30%.
Auto Jardim (www. » Expect big crowds in the Algarve and coastal resort areas.
autojardim.com)
» Sweltering temperatures are commonplace.
Hertz (www.hertz.com)
Holiday Autos (www. » Warmer ocean temperatures.
holidayautos.com) Shoulder (Apr–Jun & Sep–Nov)
Pepecar (www.pepecar.com) » Wildflowers and mild days are ideal for hikes and outdoor
activities.
IMPORTANT NUMBERS » Lively festivals take place in June.
Europe-wide emergencies » Crowds and prices are average.
(%112) » Colder ocean temperatures.
International access code
(%00) Low Season (Dec–Mar)
Country code (%351) » Shorter, rainier days with freezing temperatures at higher
elevations.
» Lower prices, fewer crowds.
» Attractions keep shorter hours.
» Frigid ocean temperatures.



470

Taxis €10–€14; around 20
Daily Costs Sleeping minutes to the centre.
Budget: Less than €50 Casa no Campo Comfy
» Dorm bed: €15–22 village houses or farmhouses for Mobile Phones (Cell
» Basic hotel room for two: hire in the countryside.
from €30 Pousadas State funded Phones)
» Lunch special at a family-run accommodation, often in castles, Local SIM cards are widely
restaurant: €7–9 converted monasteries and old available and can be used
mansions. in European and Australian
» Second-class train ticket from mobile phones. Not compatible
Lisbon to Faro: from €22 Pensão Inexpensive, extremely
basic guesthouses, often with with many North American or
Midrange: €50–120 shared bathrooms. Japanese systems.
» Double room in a midrange Price categories refer to a double
hotel: €50–100 room with bathroom in high Internet Access
» Lunch and dinner in a season. Unless otherwise stated,
midrange restaurant: €22–35 breakfast is included in the price: Wi-fi is available in most lodgings
and cafes (and is usually free).
» Admission to museums: €2–6
€ less than €60 Internet cafes are rare.
Top End: More than €€ €60–120
€120 €€€ more than €120 Money
» Boutique hotel room: from
€120 ATMs widely available, except
in the smallest villages. Credit
» Dinner for two in a top
restaurant: from €80 Arriving in Portugal cards accepted in midrange and
high-end establishments.
» Three-day surf course: €150 Aeroporto de Lisboa
(Lisbon)
Rental cars There is a wide Tipping
Eating choice of car-hire companies at Menu prices indicate a service
Tapas Bar Tapas and drinks; the airport. charge. Most people leave small
open longer hours than Metro €1.90 (including €0.50 change if satisfied: 5% is fine,
restaurants. Viva Viagem card); red line from 10% is considered generous.
Aeroporto station; transfer at
Pasteleria Bakery; good for
pastries and coffee. Alameda for blue line to Rossio
and Baixa-Chiado. It’s 20 Useful Websites
Vinoteca Wine bar where you minutes to the centre; frequent
order by the glass. departures from 6.30am to 1am. Lonely Planet (www.
Cervejaria Beerhall; the place AeroBus €3.50; every 20 lonelyplanet.com) Destination
to go for snacks and draft beer minutes from 7.45am to 8.15pm. information, articles, hotel
(cerveja). bookings, traveller forums and
Taxis €12–€16; around 20 more.
Price categories indicate the minutes to the centre.
cost of a main course: Portugal Tourism (www.
Aeroporto de Faro (Faro) visitportugal.com) Portugal’s
€ less than €10 Rental cars Car-rental useful and official tourism
authority.
€€ €10–20 agencies have desks in the
airport. RAC (www.rac.co.uk/
€€€ more than €20 drivingabroad) Information
Buses €1.60; every 30 minutes
weekdays, every two hours for British drivers on driving in
Spain and Portugal.
weekends.
471

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd





Language






Portuguese pronunciation is not difficult because most sounds are also found in English.
The exceptions are the nasal vowels (represented in our pronunciation guides by ng after the
vowel), which are pronounced as if you’re trying to make the sound through your nose; and
the strongly rolled r (represented by rr in our pronunciation guides). Also note that the sym-
bol zh sounds like the ‘s’ in ‘pleasure’. The stress generally falls on the second-last syllable of
a word. In our pronunciation guides stressed syllables are indicated with italics.


PORTUGUESE BASICS EMERGENCIES
Hello. Olá. o·laa Help! Socorro! soo·ko·rroo
Goodbye. Adeus. a·de·oosh I’m lost.
How are you? Como está? ko·moo shtaa Estou perdido. (m) shtoh per·dee·doo
Fine, and you? Bem, e você? beng e vo·se Estou perdida. (f) shtoh per·dee·da
Excuse me. Faz favor. faash fa·vor ON THE ROAD
Sorry. Desculpe. desh·kool·pe
Yes. Sim. seeng I’d like to Queria ke·ree·a
hire a …
a·loo·gaar …
alugar …
No. Não. nowng bicycle uma oo·ma
Please. Por favor. poor fa·vor bicicleta bee·see·kle·ta
Thank you. Obrigado. (m) o·bree·gaa·doo car um carro oong kaa·rroo
Obrigada. (f) o·bree·gaa·da motorcycle uma mota oo·ma mo·ta
You’re
welcome. De nada. de naa·da
What’s your name? child seat cadeira de ka·day·ra de

kree·ang·sa
criança
Qual é o seu nome? kwaal e oo se·oo no·me
My name is … helmet capacete ka·pa·se·te
O meu nome é … oo me·oo no·me e … mechanic mecânico me·kaa·nee·koo
Do you speak English? petrol/gas gasolina ga·zoo·lee·na
Fala inglês? faa·la eeng·glesh service posto de posh·too de
I don’t understand. station gasolina ga·zoo·lee·na
Não entendo. nowng eng·teng·doo
DIRECTIONS
Where’s (the station)? Want More?
Onde é (a estação)? ong·de e (a shta·sowng) For in-depth language information and
Can you show me (on the map)? handy phrases, check out Lonely Plan-
Pode-me mostrar po·de·me moosh·traar et’s Portuguese Phrasebook. You’ll find
(no mapa)? (noo maa·pa)
them at shop.lonelyplanet.com.


472

petrol
petrol
gasolina f f
windscreen
windscreen gasolina
pára-brisa m m ga·so
pára-brisa
ga·so·lee·na·lee·na
pa·ra·
pa·ra·bree·zabree·za
battery
battery
bateria f a f
bateri
ba·te·ree·a·ree·a
ba·te
engine
engine

motor m m
motor
moo·tortor
moo·
headlight
tyre
headlight tyre
pneu
faróis da frente
faróis da frente m m pneu mm
fa·
pe
fa·roysh·da·freng·teroysh·da·freng·te pe·ne·oo·ne·oo
How much for daily hire? The car/motorbike has broken down
Quanto custa para kwang·too koosh·ta pa ra (at …).
alugar por dia? a·loo·gaar poor dee·a O carro/A mota oo kaa·rroo/a mo·ta
How much for weekly hire? avariou-se (em …). a·va·ree·oh·se (eng …)
Quanto custa para kwang·too koosh·ta pa ra I have a flat tyre.
alugar por semana? a·loo·gaar poor se·ma·na Tenho um furo no ta·nyoo oong foo·roo noo
Do you have a road map? pneu. pe·ne·oo
Tem um mapa de teng oong maa·pa de I’ve run out of petrol.
estradas? shtraa·dash Estou sem gasolina. shtoh seng ga·zoo·lee·na
Is this the road to …? I need a mechanic.
Esta é a estrada esh·ta e a shtraa·da Preciso de um pre·see·zoo de oong
para …? pa·ra … mecânico. me·kaa·nee·koo
(How long) Can I park here? Can you fix it (today)?
(Quanto tempo) (kwang·too teng·poo) Pode-se arranjar po·de·se a·rrang·zhaar
Posso estacionar po·soo shta·see·oo·naar (hoje)? (o·zhe)
aqui? a·kee
What’s the speed limit? How long will it take?
Quanto tempo vai
kwang·too teng·poo vai
Qual é o limite de kwaal e oo lee·mee·te de
velocidade? ve·loo·see·daa·de levar? e·vaar
Signs
Pare Stop
Dar Prioridade Give Way
Proibido el Paso No Entry
Entrada Entrance
Portagem Toll
Sentido Unico One Way
Sair da Autoestrada Freeway Exit


473



Germany











GRANDIOSE CITIES, STORYBOOK
VILLAGES, VINE-STITCHED VALLEYS
AND BUCOLIC LANDSCAPES that beg
you to toot your horn, leap out of the car
and jump for joy – road-tripping in Germany
is a mesmerising kaleidoscope of brilliant
landscapes and experiences.
The trips in this section take you for a spin
from Germany’s edgy cities to fabled Rhine
vineyards and the medieval walled towns of
Bavaria. Whether you want to cruise past
castles, sample wine or climb into the foothills
of the Alps, we have something for you.







Rothenburg ob der Tauber Traditional half-timbered buildings
CANADASTOCK/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

DENMARK SWEDEN
Malmö # ]
Odense
# ]
Germany
# ]
Flensburg
Prerow
Kiel # \ # \ Binz
# ]
Kühlungsborn # \ Warnemünde
# \ # ]Rostock
Norddeich Bremerhaven
# \
Wilmhelmshaven # ] # ] Szczecin # ]
Groningen
# ] Elbe
# ]
Oldenburg WeserFG POLAND
36
Potsdam # ]
NETHERLANDS Osnabruck Braunschweig
Ems
# ] # ] # ]
# ] Arnhem Enschede # ] # ] Magdeburg
# ] # ] Hildesheim
# ] Bielefeld
Münster R Brocken
Nederrijn
(1141m)
Göttingen Halle
# ] Gelsenkirchen # ] # ]
# ]Krefeld Radeburg
# ] Kassel # \
Bad
Maas F G GERMANY Erfurt Gera Schandau # \
34
# ^
# ] Aachen # ] # ] # ] # ] Chemnitz
Bonn Zwickau
36
# ] F G
BELGIUM R # ] Koblenz
Hohe Acht Elbe
(747m) Wiesbaden
Moselle # ] Mainz Main CZECH REPUBLIC
LUXEMBOURG Rhine # ] Vitava
# ] Trier Darmstadt # ] # ] Würzburg # ] Plzeň
Kaiserslautern Mannheim Nuremberg
# ]
# ]
# ]
Saarbrücken # ] Heidelberg
Metz # ]
# ] Vitava
# ] Karlsruhe F G Regensberg # ]
35
# ] Donau (Danube)
Strasbourg Donau (Danube) # ] Augsburg # ] Linz
Rhin (Rhein) # ] Freiburg
FRANCE # ] Salzburg
Zugspitze
(2963m)
Rhein
Besançon Zürich # ] R AUSTRIA
# ] Doubs # ]
Bern LIECHTENSTEIN Innsbruck R Grossglockner
(3798m)
# ]
SWITZERLAND Rhein Drau
476 # ]Lausanne ITALY
SLOVENIA

DON'T
MISS


Cologne
The star of the region,
Cologne makes its
statement from the
IMAGE BY: TAKASHI IMAGES/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
moment you spot
the twin spires of the
legendary Dom. See it
on Trip y
© BAYERISCHE SCHLÖSSERVERWALTUNG, WWW.SCHLOESSER.BAYERN.DE;
Wine Tasting
Learn to love Germany’s
often excellent white
wines. Sip exquisite
vintages at the source in
cosy wineries amid the
Würzburg Residenz vineyards on Trip y

Romantic Rhine 5–7 Days
y Fall under the spell of the castle-lined riverscape Würzburg Residenz
along the world-famous Rhine. (p479) Ogle the world’s largest
fresco at Würzburg’s
The Romantic Road 10 Days magnificent Unesco-
z A ribbon of historical quaintness running through listed palace. Get your
Bavaria’s western reaches. (p491) ticket as part of Trip z
German Fairy Tale Road 5 Days
{ Learn the fantasies and the horrors in the stories
of the Brothers Grimm. (p505) Neuschwanstein
Castle
The world’s most
famous castle inspired
Walt Disney’s citadel
and strikes a fairytale
pose against Alpine
forests. Book your tour
on Trip z













477

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
a
b
c
d
e
5489
8489
c489
d489
e489

BRIGITTE MERZ / GETTY IMAGES ©
Romantic Rhine 34








After traversing powerhouse riverside cities Düsseldorf, Cologne
and Bonn, watch epic scenery unfold as Germany’s Romantic Rhine
valley carves between towering cliffs clad in forest and capped by
castles, to delightful Mainz.

TRIP HIGHLIGHTS
L 5–7 DAYS
l
# Düsseldorf 198 km 235 KM / 146 MILES
Rüdesheim
Escape the crowds by GREAT FOR…
hiking into the
HB
# Cologne picturesque vineyards

BEST TIME TO GO
April to October offers
the best weather, but
July and August can
Koblenz # be crowded.
# ESSENTIAL
# #
7
Loreley # m I PHOTO
K
# #
14
# # Boat-shaped toll castle
# #
13
Pfalzgrafstein on a
Rhine island.
Mainz BEST FOR
Boppard Home to rustic wine K OUTDOORS
One of the Romantic taverns and a
Rhine’s prettiest towns magnificent cathedral Hike through the vines
above Rüdesheim.
155 km 235 km
Bacharach St Peter’s Church 479

Krefeld Ruhr
L
]
# l # Velbert
\
Düsseldorf ]
#
# #
^ # 1
/ ·
A3
]
#
/ · Solingen
A57
34 Romantic Rhine Grevenbroich
#
\
#
]
Pulheim # \ Leverkusen
Boats gliding down the Rhine give passengers / · Cologne 2 # #
^ #
mesmerising views of the medieval villages, craggy A61 #
I
p522
hillsides, and castle after castle floating past. But Kerpen \ # Brühl Rhein
on this trip you’ll get up close to its mightiest sights, # \ 0 ¸ # \
Troisdorf
A555
# Sieg
hike through its loftiest vineyards and discover Bonn #
] #
3
/ ·
hidden treasures and romantic hideaways you’d never Euskirchen / ·
B42
B9
see from the water. (Though you’ll have plenty of # \
opportunities en route to board a cruise, too.) #
4
#
0 ¸ #
\
B257
Naturpark
Hohes
Venn-Eifel
R
Hohe Acht
(747m)
Altstadt (old town), which Neustadt
1 Düsseldorf claims to be the ‘longest \ #
Survey the mighty Rhine bar in the world’.
from Düsseldorf’s Medien- The Drive » It’s a 44km
A1
hafen. This old harbour drive from Düsseldorf south via / ·
area continues to attract the B1 and the A57 to Cologne
red-hot restaurants, (fear not: although this section
bars, hotels and clubs. mainly travels through built-up
areas and industrial estates,
Crumbling warehouses later stages of the drive become Moselle
have transformed into much more scenic).
high-tech office buildings
and now rub shoulders
with bold new structures 2 Cologne #
]
designed by celebrated A walking tour (see Trier
international architects, p522) is the best way to \ #
including Frank Gehry. appreciate this engaging \ #
Of course, no visit to city (Germany’s fourth- # \
Düsseldorf is complete largest) on the Rhine.
without exploring its
480
]
#

Ruhr # Braubach Must-sees include
#
6
\
#
Ruhr / · # Arnsberg Cologne’s world-famous
B42
5 km
\
\ # 7
# #f
#
\ # # # Iserlohn 0 0 \ 2.5 miles
\
Filsen
Hagen # \ Kölner Dom (Cologne Cathe-
Boppard dral; %0211-1794 0200; www.
# ] Wuppertal koelner-dom.de; tower adult/
# Ludenscheid /· concession €4/2; h6am-9pm
B9
\
/ · May-Oct, to 7.30pm Nov-Apr,
B42
Rhein tower 9am-6pm May-Sep, to
Bigge St Goarshausen 5pm Mar-Apr & Oct, to 4pm Nov-
St Goar # # #f # \ Feb), whose twin spires
8
/ · H # \ / · dominate the skyline, as
#
A61
B42
Gummersbach # \ # Olpe p483 well as superb museums
\
10
\ #
Lorelei Sculpture # #
# Loreley
# 9
/ ·
/ · # Kreuztal such as the Römisch-
B9
A4
\
Oberwesel /· Germanisches Museum
\
#
B42
# f Kaub (Roman Germanic Museum;
# Siegen # # %0221-2212 4438; www. GERMANY 34 ROMANTIC RHINE
\
/ · 11
\ #
B9
# \ museenkoeln.de; Roncalliplatz
# #
Sieg Bacharach 12 \ # 4; adult/concession €9/5;
h10am-5pm Tue-Sun); sculp-
tures and ruins displayed
outside its entrance are
the overture to its sym-
phony of Roman artefacts
# Remagen found along the Rhine.
#
4
# \
The Drive » Drive south
/ · along the B51 along the Rhine’s
B9
Neuwied
\ # Lahn western bank before joining the
A555 to bring you into Bonn
# Limburg # \ (29km all-up).
#
5
# ] Koblenz
/ · / · / ·
B42
A48
B42
Braubach
\ # See
Boppard #\ \ # Filsen Enlargement \ #
St Goarshausen
St Goar \ # \ # LINK
#
Oberwesel \ # # \ Loreley ^ YOUR
# Kaub Wiesbaden
\
]
Bacharach #\ # TRIP
Rüdesheim 0 ¸
A643
0 ¸ / · # 14 Main { German Fairy Tale
B9
] #
#
# #
13
# #
B327
\ f
Mainz
\
/ · Bingen m K 42 km ‚ Road
#
E50
to Get on the trail of the
36
Bad F G Brothers Grimm 65km west
]
#
Kreuznach \ # of Mainz in Hanau.
120 km to
Nahe F G z The Romantic
35
# \ Idar- Road
A63
Oberstein / · This ribbon of historical
quaintness starts at
Würzburg, two hours
(154km) west from Mainz.
# e 0 0 20 miles 40 km
Rhein
/ ·
A6
Kaiserslautern Ludwigshafen # ]
# am Rhein 481
]

3 Bonn CROSSING THE RHINE
In a beautiful river-
side setting, Ludwig No bridges span the Rhine between Koblenz and
Mainz; the only way to cross the river along this
van Beethoven’s home stretch is by Autofähre (car ferry). Prices vary
town warrants a stop slightly but you can figure on paying about €4.20 per
to visit the Beethoven- car, including driver; €1.20 per car passenger; €1.30
Haus Bonn (%0228-981 per pedestrian (€0.80 for a child); and €2.50 for a
7525; www.beethoven-haus- bicycle, including the rider.
bonn.de; Bonngasse 24-26;
adult/concession €6/4.50; Bingen–Rüdesheimer (www.bingen-ruedesheimer.com;
h10am-6pm Apr-Oct, 10am- h5.30am-9.45pm Sun-Thu & 5.30am-12.50am Fri & Sat May-
5pm Mon-Sat, 11am-5pm Sun Oct, 5.30am-9.45pm Nov-Apr)
Nov-Mar), where the great Boppard–Filsen (www.faehre-boppard.de; h6.30am-
composer was born in 10pm Jun-Aug, 6.30am-9pm Apr, May & Sep, 6.30am-8pm
1770. Other landmarks Oct-Mar)
include the soaring Mün- Niederheimbach–Lorch (www.mittelrhein-faehre.de;
ster Basilica (%0228-985 h6am-7.50pm Apr-Oct, 6am-6.50pm Nov-Mar)
880; www.bonner-muenster.de; Oberwesel–Kaub (www.faehre-kaub.de; h6am-8pm
Münsterplatz; h7am-7pm), Mon-Sat & 8am-8pm Sun Apr-Sep, 6am-7pm Mon-Sat & 8am-
GERMANY 34 ROMANTIC RHINE
built on the graves of the 7pm Sun Oct-Mar)
two martyred Roman sol-
diers who later became St Goar–St Goarshausen (www.faehre-loreley.de;
the city’s patron saints. h5.30am-midnight Mon-Sat, 6.30am-midnight Sun)
Bonn’s old government
quarter dates from its time towers now houses the
as West Germany’s ‘tempo-
rary’ capital, between 1949 4 Remagen Friedensmuseum (Peace
and 1991 (when a reunited Remagen was founded by Museum; %218 63; www.
bruecke-remagen.de; adult/child
German government de- the Romans in AD 16 as €3.50/1; h10am-5pm early
cided to move to Berlin). Rigomagus, but the town Mar-mid-Nov, to 6pm May-Oct),
For a romp through recent would hardly figure in the with a well-presented ex-
German history from history books were it not hibit on Remagen’s pivotal
the end of WWII, pop by for one fateful day in early role in WWII.
the Haus der Geschichte March 1945. As the Allies
der Bundesrepublik raced across France and The Drive » Take the B9
Deutschland (Museum of Belgium to rid Germany southeast for 49km. The Rhine
History; %0228-916 50; www. of Nazism, the Wehrmacht winds back and forth away from
hdg.de; Willy-Brandt-Allee 14; tried frantically to stave the road until you come to the
city of Koblenz. Stay on the B9
h9am-7pm Tue-Fri, 10am-6pm off defeat by destroying all until you’ve crossed the Moselle
Sat & Sun). bridges across the Rhine. River to the town centre, or
But the Brücke von
The Drive » From Bonn, take Remagen (the steel rail risk getting lost in a maze of
the B9 southeast for 24km to bridge at Remagen) lasted concentric flyovers.
Remagen. When you leave the
German state of North Rhine- long enough for Allied
Westphalia and enter Rhineland- troops to cross the river, 5 Koblenz
Palatinate the road returns to contributing significantly Koblenz sits at the conflu-
the river’s western bank; on to the collapse of Hitler’s ence of the Rhine and
your right-hand side, you’ll see western front. One of the Moselle Rivers – marked by
the hilly wildlife park Wildpark bridge’s surviving basalt
Rolandseck. the expansive Deutsches

482

Eck (German Corner), ad- sible by car, on foot and
joining flower-filled parks by cable car. 6 Braubach
and promenades – and Inside Koblenz’ strik- Framed by forest, vine-
the convergence of three ing new glass Forum yards and rose gardens,
low mountain ranges (the Confluentes, exhibits at the 1300-year-old town
Hunsrück, the Eifel and the Mittelrhein-Museum of Braubach centres on
the Westerwald). Its roots (www.mittelrhein-museum. its small, half-timbered
date back to the Romans, de; Zentralplatz 1; adult/child Marktplatz.
who founded a military €10/7; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun) High above Braubach
stronghold (Confluentes) span 2000 years of the are the dramatic towers,
here because of the site’s region’s history, including turrets and crenellations
supreme strategic value. 19th-century landscape of the 700-year-old
On the Rhine’s paintings of the Romantic Marksburg (www.marksburg.
right bank, the 118m- Rhine by German and de; adult/child €64; h10am-
high fortress Festung British artists. 5pm mid-Mar–Oct, 11am-4pm
Ehrenbreitstein (www. Nov–mid-Mar), which is GERMANY 34 ROMANTIC RHINE
diefestungehrenbreitstein.de; 4 p489 unique among the Rhine’s
adult/child €6/3, incl cable car The Drive » Take the B49 fastnesses as it was never
€11.80/5.60; h10am-6pm across the Rhine to its eastern destroyed. The compul-
Apr-Oct, to 5pm Nov-Mar) bank and travel south on the sory tour takes in the
proved indestructible to B42; it’s 13km to Braubach. At citadel, the Gothic hall
all but Napoleonic troops, this point of the drive, you leave and a grisly torture cham-
the cityscapes behind and enter
who levelled it in 1801. an older world of cobblestones, ber. English tours depart
To prove a point, the half-timbered villages, densely at 1pm and 4pm from late
Prussians rebuilt it as forested hillsides and ancient March to October.
one of Europe’s mightiest vineyards.
fortifications. It’s acces-



DETOUR:
OBERWESEL
Start: 8 St Goar (p486)
It’s a quick 7.8km south from St Goar along the B9 to the village of Oberwesel.
Every April, Oberwesel crowns not a Weinkönigin (wine queen), as in most
Rhine towns, but a Weinhexe (wine witch) – a good witch, of course – who is said
to protect the vineyards. Photos of all the Weinhexen crowned since 1946 are
displayed in the cellar of Oberwesel’s Kulturhaus (www.kulturhaus-oberwesel.de;
Rathausstrasse 23; adult/child €3/1; h10am-5pm Tue-Fri, 2-5pm Sat & Sun Apr-Oct), along with
19th-century engravings of the Romantic Rhine and models of Rhine riverboats.
Hidden sky-high up a vineyard-striped hillside, the flagstone terrace of
Günderode Haus (www.guenderodefilmhaus.de; Siebenjungfrauenblick; h11am-6pm Sat-
Thu, to 8pm Fri Apr-Oct, reduced hours Nov-Mar) is an incredible spot for a glass of wine,
beer or brandy, with sweeping views over the Rhine. The adjacent 200-year-old
half-timbered house was used as a film set for Heimat 3 (2004), and now has a
cinema room and hosts live music and literary events, as well as wine tastings. From
Oberwesel, take the K93 east for 600m, turn right (north) onto the K95; after 1km,
the car park’s on your right.



483

WHY THIS IS A WESTEND61 / GETTY IMAGES ©
GREAT TRIP
CATHERINE LE
NEVEZ, AUTHOR
The romance along this stretch of
the Rhine is timeless. Poets and
painters including Lord Byron and
William Turner are among those
who have been inspired by this
castle-crowned, forest-and-vineyard-
cloaked valley. A fabled stop on the
original European Grand Tour, the
riverscape here is now a designated
Unesco World Heritage site. It
doesn’t get more classic than that.
Top: The Rhine and the town of Boppard on the bend
LORELEI STATUE BY NATASCHA ALEXANDROVA / DEA / W. BUSS / CONTRIBUTOR/ GETTY IMAGES ©
Left: Natascha Alexandrova’s Lorelei sculpture
Right: Cologne’s Kölner Dom illuminated at dusk

The Drive » Hug the eastern
bank of the Rhine for 11km as it
curves around to the car-ferry
dock at Filsen. It’s a five-minute
crossing to charming Boppard.
TRIP HIGHLIGHT
ALLAN BAXTER / GETTY IMAGES ©
7 Boppard
Idyllically located on a
horseshoe bend in the
river, Boppard (pro-
nounced ‘bo-part’) is one
of the Romantic Rhine’s
prettiest towns, not least
because its riverfront and GERMANY 34 ROMANTIC RHINE
historic centre are both
on the same side of the
railway tracks.
Boppard’s riverfront
promenade, the Rhein-
allee, has grassy areas for
picnicking and a children’s
playground.
Many of the town’s
half-timbered buildings
house cosy wine taverns,
including its oldest,
Weinhaus Heilig Grab
(www.heiliggrab.de; Zelkesgasse
12; h3pm-midnight Wed-Mon).
In summer you can sip
local rieslings under the
chestnut trees, where live
music plays on weekends.
Fantastic hiking trails
fan out into the coun-
tryside, including the
Hunsrück Trails, accessed
by Germany’s steepest
scheduled railway route,
the Hunsrückbahn (adult/
child one-way €2.90/1.75;
hhourly 10am-6pm Apr-Oct, to
4pm Nov-Mar). Around the
Vierseenblick (Four-Lakes-
View), a panoramic outlook
reached by Sesselbahn
(chair lift; http://sesselbahn-
boppard.de; adult/child return
€7.50/4.50, one-way €4.80/3;
h10am-5pm Apr-Oct) creates
485

the illusion that you’re
looking at four separate CAT & MOUSE
lakes rather than a single
river. Two rival castles stand either side of the village of
St Goarshausen. Burg Peterseck was built by the
The Drive » Take the B9
south from Boppard for 15km, archbishop of Trier to counter the toll practices
passing Burg Maus across the of the powerful Katzenelnbogen family. The latter
river on the eastern bank near responded by building a much bigger castle high on
the village of Wellmich. Shortly the other side of town, Burg Neukatzenelnbogen,
afterwards, you’ll spot Burg which was dubbed Burg Katz, meaning ‘Cat Castle’.
Rheinfels on the western bank Highlighting the obvious imbalance of power
above St Goar. between the Katzenelnbogens and the archbishop,
Burg Peterseck was soon nicknamed Burg Maus
(Mouse Castle). Both are closed to the public.
8 St Goar
Lording over the vil-
lage of St Goar are the of the Loreley outcrop
sprawling ruins of Burg 9 Loreley 190m above the river.
Rheinfels (www.st-goar. The most storied spot The Drive » Return to the
de; adult/child €5/2.50; along the Romantic Rhine, B42 at the bottom of the hill; on
h9am-6pm mid-Mar–late Oct, Loreley is an enormous, your left, you’ll see Burg Katz.
GERMANY 34 ROMANTIC RHINE
11am-5pm late Oct–mid-Nov), almost vertical slab of Travel south for 2km to the car
at one time the mightiest slate that owes its fame to park by the breakwater for the
fortress on the Rhine. a mythical maiden whose next stop, the Lorelei Sculpture.
Built in 1245 by Count siren songs are said to
Dieter von Katzeneln- have lured sailors to their
bogen as a base for his death in the river’s treach- a Lorelei Sculpture
toll-collecting operations, erous currents. Heinrich At the tip of a narrow
its size and labyrinthine Heine told the tale in his breakwater jutting into
layout are astonishing. 1824 poem Die Lorelei. the Rhine, a bronze
Kids (and adults) will On the edge of the sculpture of Loreley’s
love exploring the sub- plateau 4km southeast famous maiden perches
terranean tunnels and of the village of St Goar- lasciviously atop a rocky
galleries (bring a torch). shausen, visitor centre platform. From the
From St Goar’s northern Loreley Besucherzen- car park, you can walk
edge, follow the Schloss- trum (%06771-599 093; the 600m out to the
berg road to the castle. www.loreley-besucherzentrum. sculpture, from where
54 p489 de; Loreleyring 7; adult/ there are fantastic views
of both riverbanks, but
child €2.50/1.50, parking
The Drive » At St Goar, €2; h10am-6pm Apr-Oct, be aware that the rough
take the five-minute car ferry 10am-5pm Mar, 11am-4pm Sat path is made from jag-
across to the little village of & Sun Nov-Feb) covers the ged slate (wear sturdy
St Goarshausen. From St shoes!) and the gentler
Goarshausen’s Marktplatz, follow Loreley myth and local sandy lower path is often
the L338 as it twists steeply flora, fauna, shipping and underwater.
uphill through thick forest for winemaking traditions.
1.2km and turn right onto the A 300m gravel path leads The Drive » Leaving the car
K89 for 2.5km to reach Loreley. to a viewpoint at the tip park, take the B42 south for
8km to the little village of Kaub,
and park next to the ferry dock.



486

toll. The island makes for arched gateways under
b Kaub a fabulous picnic spot. the train tracks and you’ll
Kaub is the gateway to Alongside Kaub’s car find yourself in a medieval
one of the river’s iconic ferry dock you can hop on old town filled with half-
sights. Like something out a little Fährboot (propelled timbered mansions.
It’s possible to walk
boat; adult/child €2.50/1;
of a fairy tale, 1326-built,
boat-shaped toll castle hevery 30min 10am-6pm almost all the way around
Pfalzgrafstein (www.burg- Tue-Sun Apr-Oct, 10am-5pm Mar, the centre on top of the
walls. The lookout tower
10am-5pm Sat & Sun Nov, Jan
pfalzgrafenstein.de; adult/child
€3/2; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun & Feb, closed Dec) passenger on the upper section of the
ferry (it only runs from
wall affords panoramic
Apr-Oct, 10am-5pm Mar, 10am-
5pm Sat & Sun Nov, Jan & Feb, this side of the river). views.
closed Dec), with distinctive The Drive » From Kaub, Dating from 1421,
white-painted walls, red take the car ferry across to the Zum Grünen Baum
trim, and slate turrets, Rhine’s western bank and head (www.weingut-bastian- GERMANY 34 ROMANTIC RHINE
perches on a narrow south on the B9 for 3km to bacharach.de; Oberstrasse
island in the middle of the Bacharach. 63; hnoon-midnight Apr-Oct,
Rhine. A once-dangerous reduced hours Nov-Mar)
rapid here (since modi- c Bacharach serves some of Bacha-
fied) forced boats to use rach’s best whites in
rustic surrounds. Its
the right-hand side of the Tiny Bacharach conceals
river, where a chain forced its considerable charms nearby Vinothèque (www.
ships to stop and pay a behind a 14th-century weingut-bastian-bacharach.de/
wall. Enter one of the thick vinothek; Koblenzer Strasse 1;
CRUISING THE RHINE
If you’d like to let someone else drive for a while and get a different perspective of
the Rhine, it’s easy to park up and hop on a cruise boat.
From about Easter to October (winter services are very limited), passenger ships
run by KD (Köln-Düsseldorfer; %0221-208 8318; www.k-d.com) link Rhine villages on a set
timetable:
» You can travel to the next village or all the way between Mainz and Koblenz (one-
way/return €50/55, downstream Mainz to Koblenz/upstream Koblenz to Mainz
5½/eight hours).
» Within the segment you’ve paid for (for example, Boppard–Rüdesheim, which
costs €25.40/26.80 one-way/return), you can get on and off as often as you like,
but make sure to ask for a free stopover ticket each time you disembark.
» Children up to the age of four travel free, while those up to age 13 are charged a
flat fee of €6 regardless of distance.
» Return tickets usually cost only slightly more than one-way.
» To bring along a bicycle, there’s a supplement of €2.80.
Several smaller companies also send passenger boats up and down the river:
Bingen-Rüdesheimer (www.bingen-ruedesheimer.com)
Hebel Linie (www.hebel-linie.de)
Loreley Linie (www.loreley-linie.com)
Rössler Linie (www.roesslerlinie.de)

487

h3-5pm Mon-Fri & 11am-6pm Prussian victory in the or vine-draped Weingut
Sat & Sun Apr-Oct, 3-5pm Mon- Franco-Prussian War and Michel (www.michel-wein.de;
Fri Nov-Mar), by contrast, the creation of the Ger- Jakobsbergstrasse 8; h4pm-
is state of the art. Owner man Reich, both in 1871. midnight), Mainz’ only Wein-
Friedrich Bastian is a To save climbing 203 ver- gut (winery) to exclusively
renowned opera singer, tical metres, glide above serve its own wines.
so music (and culinary) the vineyards aboard the Highlights you won’t
events take place year- 1400m-long Seilbahn want to miss include the
round, including on Bas- (Kabinenbahn; www.seilbahn- fabulous Mainzer Dom
tian’s private river island ruedesheim.de; Oberstrasse 37; (%06131-253 412; www.
with its own vineyard. adult/child one-way €5/2.50, mainz-dom.de; Markt 10;
return €7/3.50, with Sesselbahn h9am-6.30pm Mon-Fri, to 4pm
4 p489
€8/4; h10am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, Sat, 12.45-3pm & 4-6.30pm
The Drive » Head south to 6pm Sat & Sun May-Sep, Sun, shorter hours Nov-Feb),
on the B9, passing Burg 10am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 5.30pm the ethereal windows of
Reichenstein, then Burg Sat & Sun Apr & Oct) cable Chagall in St-Stephan-
Rheinstein, on your right. Then, car. A network of hiking Kirche (www.st-stephan-mainz.
on your left, in the river itself,
you’ll pass the Mäuseturm, a trails extends from the de; Kleine Weissgasse 12;
fortified tower used as a signal monument. h10am-5pm Mon-Sat, noon-
station until 1974. Drive through 4 p489 5pm Sun Mar-Oct, 10am-4.30pm
the busy working town of Bingen Mon-Sat, noon-4.30pm Sun Nov-
GERMANY 34 ROMANTIC RHINE
to the car-ferry dock at its The Drive » From Rüdesheim, Feb), and the first printed
eastern edge, and cross the river head east on the B42 for 23km Bible in the Gutenberg-
to Rüdesheim. and turn south on the A643 to Museum Mainz (www.
cross the bridge over the Rhine. gutenberg-museum.de; Lieb-
From here it’s 13km southeast to
TRIP HIGHLIGHT the centre of Mainz. frauenplatz 5; adult/child €5/2;
d Rüdesheim h9am-5pm Tue-Sat, 11am-5pm
Sun). This museum com-
Depending on how you TRIP HIGHLIGHT memorates native son
look at it, Rüdesheim’s e Mainz Johannes Gutenberg who
town centre – and especial- ushered in the informa-
ly its most famous feature, The Rhine River meets tion age here in the 15th
the tunnel-like medieval the Main at lively Mainz, century by perfecting
alley Drosselgasse – is which has a sizeable movable type.
either a touristy nightmare university, pretty pedes- Also well worth a visit is
or a lot of kitschy, colour- trian precincts and a the dungeon-like, brilliant-
ful fun. But there’s also savoir vivre dating from ly illuminated Roman ar-
wonderful walking in the Napoleon’s occupation chaeological site Heiligtum
greater area, which is part (1797–1814). der Isis und Mater Magna
of the Rheingau wine re- Strolling along the (www.isis-mainz.de; Römer
gion, famed for its superior Rhine and sampling local Passage 1; admission by donation;
rieslings. wines in an Altstadt h10am-6pm Mon-Sat). The
For a stunning Rhine tavern are as much a easy-to-miss entrance is on
panorama, head up the part of any Mainz visit as the Römer Passage mall’s
wine-producing slopes viewing the sights. Try the ground floor just inside the
west of Rüdesheim to the 1791 Weinstube Hottum western entrance.
Niederwald Monument. (Grebenstrasse 3; h4pm-
Erected between 1877 midnight), serving wines 5 p489
and 1883, this bombastic purely from the Rheingau
monument celebrates the and Rheinhessen regions,


488

Eating & Sleeping




Koblenz 5 Bacharach c
4 Hotel Stein Boutique Hotel €€ 4 Rhein Hotel Hotel €€
(%0261-963 530; www.hotel-stein.de; (%06743-1243; www.rhein-hotel-bacharach.de;
Mayener Strasse 126; s/d from €85/110; pW) Langstrasse 50; s €39-68, d €78-136; paW)
Decorated in zesty colours such as tangerine Right on the town’s medieval ramparts, this
contrasted with dark timbers, Stein’s 30 welcoming family-run hotel has 14 well-lit rooms
contemporary rooms are all soundproofed for with original artwork. Rooms facing the river,
a peaceful night’s sleep. The hotel is situated and so the train tracks, have double-glazing.
across the Moselle River 2km north of Koblenz’ Guests can borrow bikes for free. Its Stübers
city centre but you won’t need to leave to dine: Restaurant (%06743-1243; Langstrasse 50;
its superb gourmet restaurant Schiller’s utilises mains €17-23; h11.30am-2.15pm & 5.30-9.15pm GERMANY 34 ROMANTIC RHINE
premium ingredients like white aspargus, Wed-Mon; v) is top-notch.
scampi, foie gras and truffles.
Rüdesheim d
St Goar 8 4 Rüdesheimer
5 Weinhotel Landsknecht German €€ Schloss Boutique Hotel €€
(%06741-2001; www.hotel-landsknecht.de; (%06722-905 00; www.ruedesheimer-schloss.
Aussiedlung Landsknecht 4; mains €14-27.50, com; Steingasse 10; s €95-115, d €125-155, ste
4-course dinner menu €42; hnoon-2.30pm & €155-165; pW) Truly good places to sleep
6-9pm Apr-Oct, noon-2.30pm & 6-9pm Wed-Sun and eat are thin on the ground in Rüdesheim,
Nov, Dec & Mar, closed Jan & Feb) The dining but this 18th-century building has 26 stunning
room and terrace at this wonderful spot 1.5km contemporary rooms designed by local and
north of St Goar feel like being aboard a cruise regional artists. Its restaurant is excellent,
boat, with close-up, uninterrupted river views. serving dishes such as cheese and riesling soup,
Sensational home cooking spans pickled veal liver with truffled mash, and roast duck
salmon with quince mousse to schnitzel with stuffed with dates and figs, with a live pianist
mushroom and riesling sauce, and red-wine- and after-dinner dancing.
marinated plums with rosemary-and-vanilla ice
cream. Many of its rooms (doubles from €90)
also have Rhine views. Mainz e
4 Romantik Hotel 5 Zur Kanzel German, French €€€
Schloss Rheinfels Historic Hotel €€€ (%06131-237 137; www.zurkanzel.de;
(%06741-8020; www.schloss-rheinfels.de; s/d Grebenstrasse 4; mains €8-23.50; hkitchen
weekday from €95/130, weekend €110/140; 5-11pm Mon-Fri, noon-4pm & 6-11pm Sat) Germany
piWs) Part of the Burg Rheinfels (p486) meets France at this dark-timber-panelled
castle complex is occupied by a romantic hotel Weinstube (wine bar) in dishes such as grilled
with 64 rooms and suites that range in size tuna with riesling and sage sauce, garlic-crusted
from tiny to palatial. All have antique-style rack of lamb with wilted spinach, schnitzel with
furnishings; pricier rooms come with a river Frankfurt-style Grüne Sosse (green sauce) and
view. The hotel has three fine restaurants: one rump steak with herb butter, as well as garlic
rustic, one semiformal and one gourmet. snails. All ingredients are fresh, so the menu
evolves with the seasons; there’s a lovely summer
courtyard. Cash only.




489

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The Romantic
Road 35
MANFRED GOTTSCHALK / GETTY IMAGES ©







On this trip you’ll experience the Germany of the bedtime story-
book – medieval walled towns, gabled townhouses, cobbled squares
and crooked streets, all preserved as if time has come to a standstill.


TRIP HIGHLIGHTS
10 DAYS
#lL 350 KM / 218 MILES
0 km # #
1
Würzburg
One of Germany's GREAT FOR…
finest baroque
palaces is here BG
#
# #
4
99 km
BEST TIME TO GO
Rothenburg ob der #
# #
5
Tauber Any time of year.
Wander the streets of
this medieval marvel # Nördlingen ESSENTIAL
I PHOTO
149 km The half-timbered
buildings of
Dinkelsbühl Augsburg
The Romantic Road's # Rothenburg ob der
quaintest town Tauber’s Plönlein.
K BEST TWO
DAYS
350 km # Schongau
The stretch between
Neuschwanstein & stops 4 and 6 takes
14 K
Hohenschwangau Castles #m
Two of Germany's # # in the most romantic
finest castles towns of the Romantic
Road.
Dinkelsbühl Gabled houses 491

F G
‚ 35 km to
36
85 km to F G
34
Main / · #
A3
]
The Romantic Tauberbischofsheim /·
B81
\ #
# #
2
35 Road
#
#
3
\
#
From the vineyards of Würzburg to the foot of the / ·
A81
Alps, the Romantic Road (Romantische Strasse) is # Burg
\
by far the most popular of Germany’s touring routes. Guttenberg
This well-trodden trail cuts through a cultural and \ #
historical cross-section of southern Germany, coming Heilbronn Schwäbisch
#
\
to a climax at the gates of King Ludwig II’s crazy Hall
castles. The route links some of Germany’s most # Backnang
\
picturesque towns, many appearing untouched since # Ludwigsburg Schwäbisch
\
medieval times. Stuttgart / · Gmund
B29
\
#
#
^
Göppingen
# \
45 min English tours 11am & 3pm,
also 4.30pm Apr-Oct), a vast
TRIP HIGHLIGHT \ #
Unesco-listed palace, built Reutlingen
1 Würzburg by 18th-century architect
This scenic town in Balthasar Neumann as
Bavaria’s northeast corner the home of the local
straddles the Main River prince-bishops. It’s one of \ # 0 ¸
B311
and is renowned for its Germany’s most important
art, architecture and and beautiful baroque Donau
delicate wines. A large palaces. The wonderful
student population keeps zigzagging Treppenhaus
things lively and plenty (Staircase) is capped by Ach
of hip nightlife pulsates what is still the world’s Pfullendorf Bad
through its cobbled largest fresco, a master- # \ Waldsee \ #
streets. piece by Giovanni Battista Weingarten
Top billing here goes to Tiepolo depicting allegories # \
the Würzburg Residenz of the four then-known Ravensburg \ #
(www.residenz-wuerzburg.de; continents (Europe, Africa, Meersburg
#
\
Balthasar-Neumann-Promenade; America and Asia). The Konstanz / · Friedrichshafen
31
\
#
#
\
adult/concession/under 18yrs recently renovated Dom St Lindau
Lake
€7.50/6.50/free; h9am-6pm Kilian (www.dom-wuerzburg. Constance # \
Apr-Oct, 10am-4.30pm Nov-Mar, de; Domstrasse 40; h8am-7pm Arbon \ # #
SWITZERLAND Bregenz
^
/ · \ # \ #
A1
492 St Gallen

# \
# e 0 0 20 miles Mon-Sat, 8am-8pm Sun) is a
40 km
highly unusual cathedral
Main
L
] # 1 l and the baroque Schön-
Würzburg with a Romanesque core
# #
/ ·
A3
bornkapelle by Balthasar
/ · Neumann.
A73
/ · # Erlangen 54 p502
A7
\
/ ·
A9
Weikersheim Fürth \ # The Drive » The 37km
between Würzburg and the next
#
# Nuremberg stop, Tauberbischofsheim, is
3
\
]
#
#
Rothenburg best tackled in the following
ob der Tauber
4
\ #
0 ¸ # # Ansbach Schwabach way: from the centre of
Würzburg take the B19 south
\
#
L1040
/ · \ # / · until it joins the A3 motorway;
A7
E50
/ · follow this until the junction with
E45
the B81, which goes all the way GERMANY 35 THE ROMANTIc ROAD
Altmuhl
to Tauberbischofsheim.
# Gunzenhausen
\
\ #
# Dinkelsbühl
#
5
Weissenburg # \
Eichstätt &
/ · the Altmühltal 2 Tauberbischofsheim
B25
The main town of the
Nature Park
Nördlingen H # pretty Tauber Valley, this
#
\ # small settlement has a
# #
6
# Aalen p498 picturesque marketplace
\
# \ # # 7
Harburg # Donau dominated by a neo-
\
# Gothic town hall and
# #
\ 8
Donauwörth
Donau
lined with typical half-
Donau / · timbered houses. Follow
the remains of the
B2
medieval town walls
/ · Lech
A8
Ulm # \ Augsburg 9 ] #
# #
LINK
YOUR
Verlorener Bach { German Fairy Tale
/ · TRIP
A7
/ ·
B17
#
^
Road
/ · Ammersee Do one of the trips in
A96
# Landsberg
10
\ #
# \ # reverse: the start of the
Memmingen am Lech Grimm Brothers' Fairy Tale
# \ Kaufbeuren / · Wurmsee Road is about an hour east
B17
# \ Weilheim
#Leutkirch /· 11 # # Schongau from Würzburg.
\
#
A7
\ #
\
/ · Marktoberdorf y \ # Romantic Rhine
\
#
A96
# #
\ 12
Kempten # \ # Wieskirche Würzburg is two
/ · Staffelsee
B17
Bannwaldsee / · hours (154km) from Mainz,
A95
# \ # m K
Mittlerer at the end of this castle-
Alpsee Inselsee Füssen #
13
# # \ Garmisch- lined riverside jaunt.
#
14
Neuschwanstein & Partenkirchen
\
#
Hohenschwangau Zugspitze
# \ Castles (2963m) Mittenwald \ #
Lingenau R
AUSTRIA 493
# \

to the Kurmainzisches
Schloss, which now hous- MUSEUM OF THE BAVARIAN
es the Tauberfränkisches KINGS
Landschaftsmuseum
(Schlossplatz; admission Palace-fatigued visitors often head straight for
€2; h2-4.30pm Tue-Sat, the bus stop, coach park or nearest beer after a
10am-noon & 2-4.30pm Sun tour of the castles, most overlooking the area’s
Easter-Oct), where you can third attraction, the worthwhile Museum der
learn more about Tauber- Bayerischen Könige (Museum of the Bavarian Kings;
bischofsheim’s past. www.museumderbayerischenkoenige.de; Alpseestrasse
27; adult/concession €9.50/8; h10am-6pm), installed
The Drive » The 34km dash in a former lakeside hotel 400m from the castle
from Tauberbischofsheim to ticket office (heading towards Alpsee Lake). The
Weikersheim passes through big-window views across the beautiful lake (a great
Lauda-Königshofen, a pretty
stop in the Tauber Valley. picnic spot) to the Alps are almost as amazing as
the Wittelsbach bling on show, including Ludwig
II’s famous blue-and-gold robe. The architecturally
3 Weikersheim stunning museum is packed with historical
Top billing in under- background on Bavaria’s first family and is well worth
the extra legwork. A detailed audioguide is included
visited Weikersheim is in the ticket price.
Schloss Weikersheim
(www.schloss-weikersheim.de;
GERMANY 35 THE ROMANTIc ROAD
Marktplatz 11; adult/conces- follows minor country roads all half-timbered house you
sion €6.50/3.30; h9am-6pm the way, with the route passing are ever likely to see.
Apr-Oct, 10am-noon & 1-5pm through a rolling patchwork of Hidden down a little al-
Nov-Mar), the finest palace fields. You could also detour via ley is the Alt-Rothenburger
on the entire Romantic Creglingen, a minor stop on the Handwerkerhaus (Alter
Road. Renaissance to the Romantic Road. Stadtgraben 26; adult/conces-
core, it’s surrounded by sion €3/2.50; h11am-5pm
beautiful formal gardens TRIP HIGHLIGHT Mon-Fri, from 10am Sat & Sun
inspired by Versailles. 4 Rothenburg ob Easter-Oct, 2-4pm daily Dec),
Highlights include the der Tauber where numerous artisans –
enormous Knights Hall including coopers, weavers,
dating from around 1600 A well-preserved histori- cobblers and potters – have
and over 40m long. The cal town, Rothenburg ob their workshops today,
rich decor here includes a der Tauber is the most and mostly have had for
huge painted ceiling, each popular stop on the Ro- the house’s 700-plus-years
panel depicting a hunting mantic Road. But when existence. It’s half museum,
scene, and the amaz- you’re finished with the half active workplace and
ingly ornate fireplace. main sights, there are you can easily spend an
The unforgettable rococo a couple of less obvious hour or so watching the
mirror cabinet, with its attractions here. craftsmen at work.
gilt-and-red decor, is also You’ll often see the
part of the guided tour, Plönlein on the covers 5 p502
after which you can wan- of brochures and tourist The Drive » The quickest
der the elegantly laid-out bumf, a gathering of and simplest way between
gardens. forks in the cobbled road Rothenburg ob der Tauber and
(Obere Schmiedgasse) Dinkelsbühl is along the A7
The Drive » The short 28km occupied by possibly the motorway (50km). For a gentler,
journey between Weikersheim quaintest, most crooked but slower and longer experience,
and Rothenburg ob der Tauber follow the official Romantic Road


494

route, which tacks along country
roads via Schillingsfürst, another ROTHENBURG’S SNOWBALLS
quaint halt.
Where is it possible to get your hands on a snowball
in July? Why, in Rothenburg ob der Tauber, of course!
TRIP HIGHLIGHT The town’s speciality are Schneeballen (snowballs),
5 Dinkelsbühl ribbons of dough loosely shaped into balls, deep-
Immaculately preserved fried then coated in icing sugar, chocolate and other
Dinkelsbühl is argu- dentist’s foes. Some 24 types are produced at Diller’s
ably the Romantic Road’s Schneeballen (Hofbronnengasse 16; h10am-6pm); a
quaintest and most more limited range can be enjoyed all over town.
authentically medieval
halt. Just like Rothenburg
it is ringed by medieval and has been declared the railway station is
walls, which boast 18 tow- a special ‘geopark’. a retirement home for
ers and four gates. The joy Nördlingen’s 14th-century locos that have puffed
of Dinkelsbühl is aimless walls, all original, mimic their last. The museum GERMANY 35 THE ROMANTIc ROAD
wandering through the the crater’s rim and are runs steam trains up to
crooked lanes, but for a almost perfectly circular. Dinkelsbühl, Feuchtwan-
lowdown on the town’s The Rieskrater Museum gen and Gunzenhausen
history visit the Haus der (Eugene-Shoemaker-Platz 1; several times a year; see
Geschichte (Altrathausplatz adult/concession €4.50/2.50, the website for details.
14; adult/child €4/2; h9am- ticket also valid for Stadtmuse- 54 p503
6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-5pm Sat & um; h10am-4.30pm Tue-Sun,
Sun May-Oct, 10am-5pm daily closed noon-1.30pm Nov-Apr) The Drive » The 19km drive
Nov-Apr), in the same build- tells the story. Next door from Nördlingen to Harburg
is a simple affair along the
ing as the tourist office. is the Stadtmuseum
(Vordere Gerbergasse 1; adult/ arrow-straight B25 all the way.
54 p502 concession €4.50/2.50, ticket The road crosses the flatlands
also valid for Rieskrater Museum; created by the Ries meteorite,
The Drive » Just 32km now fertile agricultural land.
separate Dinkelsbühl from h1.30-4.30pm Tue-Sun Mar-
Nördlingen along the B25; early Nov), which gives an
drivers are accompanied by interesting rundown of 7 Harburg
the Wörnitz River for the first Nördlingen’s story so far.
part of the journey. Just a few On a completely differ- Looming over the Wör-
kilometres short of Nördlingen is ent note, the Bayerisches nitz River, the medieval
Wallerstein, a small market town Eisenbahnmuseum (www. covered parapets, towers,
with the beautiful parish church turrets, keep and red-tiled
of St Alban, also a Romantic bayerisches-eisenbahn roofs of the 12th-century
Road stop. museum.de; Am Hohen Weg 6a; Schloss Harburg (www.
adult/child €6/3; hnoon- burg-harburg.de; adult/child
4pm Tue-Sat, 10am-5pm €5/3; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun
6 Nördlingen Sun May-Sep, noon-4pm Sat, mid-Mar–Oct) are so perfectly
Charmingly medieval, 10am-5pm Sun Oct-Mar) near
Nördlingen lies within
the Ries Basin, a massive
impact crater gouged out WILLY WONKA’S NÖRDLINGEN
by a meteorite more than If you’ve seen the 1970s movie Willy Wonka & the
15 million years ago. The
crater – some 25km in Chocolate Factory, you’ve already looked down upon
Nördlingen, from a glass elevator – aerial shots of the
diameter – is one of the
best preserved on earth, town were used in the final sequences of the film.

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WHY THIS IS A RAINER MIRAU / LOOK-FOTO / GETTY IMAGES ©
GREAT TRIP
MARC DI DUCA,
AUTHOR
TOMEKD76 / GETTY IMAGES ©
This 350km-long ribbon of historical
quaintness is the Germany you came
to see, but things can get crowded
in the summer months, taking away
a bit of the romance. Do the trip in
winter when Bavaria’s chocolate-box
towns look even prettier under a
layer of snow.

Top: The Main River in Würzburg with a fortress on
the hilltop
Left: Schneeballen (snowballs), a traditional cake in
Rothenburg ob der Tauber
Right: Franconia Fountain in front of Würzburg
Residenz

preserved they almost
seem like part of a film set.
Tours tell the Schloss’ long
tale and evoke the ghosts
that are said to use the
castle as a hang-out.
From the castle, the
walk to Harburg’s cute,
half-timbered Altstadt
(old town) takes around
10 minutes, slightly
more the other way as
you’re heading uphill. A
fabulous panorama of the
village and castle can be
admired from the 1702 GERMANY 35 THE ROMANTIc ROAD
stone bridge spanning
the Wörnitz.
The Drive » A mere 12km
© BAYERISCHE SCHLÖSSERVERWALTUNG WWW.SCHLOESSER.BAYERN.DE / SOO HON KEONG / GETTY IMAGES ©
separate tiny Harburg with its
bigger neighbour Donauwörth.
The route follows the B25 all the
way across undulating farmland.

8 Donauwörth
Sitting pretty at the
confluence of the Danube
and Wörnitz Rivers, the
small town of Donau-
wörth had its heyday
as a Free Imperial City
in the 14th century.
WWII destroyed 75% of
the medieval old town
but three gates and five
town-wall towers still
guard it today. The main
street is Reichstrasse,
which is where you’ll
discover the Lieb-
fraukirche (Reichstrasse),
a 15th-century Gothic
church with original
frescos and a curiously
sloping floor that drops
120cm. Swabia’s largest
church bell (6550kg)
swings in the belfry. The
other major attraction in


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town is the Käthe-Kruse- city of spires and cobbles hnoon-5pm Mon, 10am-
Puppenmuseum (www. is an engaging stop, 12.30pm & 3-5pm Tue-Sat, 10am-
kaethe-kruse.de; Pflegstrasse though one with a less 12.30pm & 3-4pm Sun). The
21a; adult/child €2.50/1.50; quaint atmosphere than birthplace of the poet and
h11am-6pm Tue-Sun May- others along the route. playwright Bertolt Brecht
Sep, 2-5pm Thu-Sun Oct-Apr). Augsburg’s top sight is is now a museum called
In a former monastery, the Fuggerei (www.fugger. the Bertolt-Brecht-Haus
it’s a nostalgia-inducing de; Jakober Strasse; adult/ (%0821-324 2779; Auf dem Rain
place full of old dolls and concession €4/3; h8am-8pm 7; adult/concession €2.50/2;
dollhouses from world- Apr-Sep, 9am-6pm Oct-Mar), h10am-5pm Tue-Sun).
renowned designer Käthe Europe’s oldest Catho- 54 p503
Kruse (1883–1968). lic welfare settlement,
founded by banker and The Drive » The 41km drive
The Drive » The quickest merchant Jakob Fugger in from Augsburg to Landsberg am
way between Donauwörth and Lech is a simple affair along the
the next stop in Augsburg 47km 1521. Around 200 people B17. The route mostly follows the
away is via the B2 and the A8 inhabit the complex to- valley of the Lech River, which
motorway. The scenic route via day; see how the residents links the two towns. Look out for
backroads east of the A8 passes of yesterday lived by visit- signs to the amusingly named
close to the pretty town of ing the Fuggereimuseum town of Kissing!
Rain, another minor halt on the (Mittlere Gasse 14; admission
Romantic Road.
incl with entry to the Fuggerei;
h9am-8pm Mar-Oct, 9am-6pm a Landsberg am
GERMANY 35 THE ROMANTIc ROAD
9 Augsburg Nov-Apr). Lech
Two famous Germans
Augsburg is the Roman- have close associations A walled town on the
tic Road’s largest city and with Augsburg. The Prot- River Lech, lovely Lands-
one of Germany’s oldest, estant Reformation leader berg has a less commer-
founded by the stepchil- Martin Luther stayed here cial ambience than others
dren of Roman emperor in 1518 – his story is told on the route. Just like the
Augustus over 2000 at the St Anna Kirche (Im Wieskirche further south,
years ago. This attractive Annahof 2, off Annastrasse; the small baroque Johan-

DETOUR:
EICHSTÄTT & THE ALTMÜHLTAL
NATURE PARK
Start: 8 Donauwörth (p497)
A short 55km off the Romantic Road from Donauwörth lies the town of Eichstätt, the
main jumping-off point for the serenely picturesque 2900-sq-km Altmühltal Nature
Park, which follows the wooded valley of the Altmühl River. Canoeing the river is
a top activity here, as is cycling the same route and camping. The park is an ideal
break from the road and a relaxing place to spend a few days in unspoilt natural
surroundings. Eichtstätt itself has a wealth of architecture, including the richly
adorned medieval Dom (www.bistum-eichstaett.de/dom; Domplatz; h7.15am-7.30pm), with
its museum, the baroque Fürstbischöfliche Residenz (Residenzplatz; admission €1;
h7.30am-noon Mon-Fri, 2-4pm Mon-Wed, 2-5.30pm Thu), where the local prince-bishops
once lived it up, and the Willibaldsburg (%08421-4730; Burgstrasse 19; adult/concession
€4.50/3.50; h9am-6pm Tue-Sun Apr-Oct, 10am-4pm Tue-Sun Nov-Mar), a 14th-century
castle that now houses a couple of museums.


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