Lonely Planet Europe’s Best Trips (Travel Guide)

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The Drive » Take the A593 TRIP
west towards Skelwith Bridge,
and follow signs to Elterwater
and Great Langdale. It’s a f The Best of g Britain’s Wild
wonderful 8-mile drive that gets Britain Side
wilder and wilder the deeper Start this circuit of Head north or south
you head into the valley. There’s Britain’s greatest hits along the A591 to visit
a large car park beside the Old
Dungeon Ghyll Hotel, but it gets by picking up the M6 more of the Britain’s
busy in summer; there’s usually at Penrith between glorious natural beauty
overflow parking available in a Manchester and spots.
nearby field. Edinburgh.
249

h9.30am-5.30pm), a tiny
3 Great Langdale house where he lived
The Lake District has with his sister Dorothy, PIXELBUCKET / 500PX ©
some truly stunning val- wife Mary and three
leys, but Great Langdale children between 1798
and 1807. Guided tours
definitely ranks near the
top. As you pass through explore the house, and
the pretty village of next door the Words-
Elterwater and its village worth Museum has lots
green, the scenery gets of memorabilia relating
to the Romantic poets
really wild and empty.
Fells stack up like domi- (including haunting life
noes along the horizon, masks of John Keats and
looming over a patch- Wordsworth).
A little way south of
work of barns and fields. Grasmere is the house
If you’re up for a hike,
then tackle the multi- where Wordsworth spent
peak circuit around the most of his adult life,
Langdale Pikes. Alterna- Rydal Mount (%015394-
tively, the more sedentary 33002; www.rydalmount.
option is to just admire co.uk; adult/child £7.50/3.50,
GREAT BRITAIN 18 CLASSIC LAKES
the view over a pint of grounds only £4.50;
ale from the cosy bar of h9.30am-5pm Mar-Oct,
the Old Dungeon Ghyll 11am-4pm Wed-Mon Nov, Dec
(%015394-37272; www.odg. & Feb). It’s still owned by
the poet’s descendants,
co.uk; Great Langdale; s £58, d
£116-132; pW#), a classic and is a much grander
hikers’ haunt. affair than Dove Cottage:
you can have a look
The Drive » Retrace the road around the library, visit
to Ambleside and head north the poet’s attic study and
to Grasmere on the A591 for wander around the gar-
5 miles.
dens he designed. Below
the house, Dora’s Field
TRIP HIGHLIGHT is filled with daffodils
4 Grasmere in springtime; it was
The lovely little village of planted in memory of to a recipe formulated
Wordsworth’s daughter,
Grasmere is inextricably who died of tuberculosis. in 1854.
linked with the poet If you have a sweet
William Wordsworth, tooth, you’ll also want 4 p259
who made it his home in to pick up a souvenir at The Drive » From Grasmere,
the late 18th century and Sarah Nelson’s Ginger- continue north on the A591.
never left unless he really bread Shop (%015394- You’ll pass through the dramatic
had to. Two of his houses 35428; www.grasmereginger pass known as Dunmail Raise,
are now open to the pub- bread.co.uk; Church Cottage; where a great battle is said
lic. The most famous is h9.15am-5.30pm Mon-Sat, to have taken place between
Dove Cottage (%015394- 12.30-5pm Sun), which still the Saxons and the Celtic king
35544; www.wordsworth.org. makes its gingerbread Dunmail, who was slain near the
pass. Stay on the road past the
uk; adult/child £7.50/4.50;


250

Grizedale Forest Woodland stream
lake of Thirlmere all the way to
Keswick (13 miles). TOP TIP:
NATIONAL TRUST
MEMBERSHIP
5 Keswick Being a National Trust (www.nationaltrust.org.uk)
Another of the Lake member comes in very handy in the Lake District.
District’s classic market The Trust owns several key attractions, including Hill
towns, Keswick is a place Top and the Beatrix Potter Gallery near Hawkshead,
that revolves around the Wordsworth House in Cockermouth and Fell Foot and
great outdoors. Sev- Wray Castle near Windermere. Best of all, you get
eral big fells lie on its to park for free at all the NT’s car parks – handy in
doorstep, including the celebrated beauty spots like Buttermere, Borrowdale,
imposing lump of Skid- Wasdale, Gowbarrow Park and Tarn Hows.
daw and the dramatic

251

WHY THIS IS A ANDREW ROLAND / SHUTTERSTOCK ©
GREAT TRIP
OLIVER BERRY,
WRITER
For classic English scenery, nowhere
quite compares to the Lake District.
JUSTIN FOULKES / LONELY PLANET ©
With its fells and waterfalls, valleys
and villages, lakes and meadows, it’s
like a postcard that’s come to life.
It’s visited by some 13 million people
every year, but it’s still easy to find
peace and serenity – whether it’s
rowing across a lake, cycling through
the countryside or standing atop
a fell. Pack spare memory cards –
you’ll need them.

Left: A classic ploughman’s lunch
Above: Grasmere, home to poet William
Wordsworth
Right: Hiking around Tarn Hows

ridge of Blencathra, but
it’s the lake of Derwent-
water that really draws
the eye: it was said to be
Beatrix Potter’s favourite,
and she supposedly got
the idea for Squirrel Nut-
JUSTIN FOULKES / LONELY PLANET ©
kin while watching red
squirrels frolicking on
its shores. The Keswick
Launch (%017687-72263;
www.keswick-launch.co.uk;
round-the-lake adult/child/
family £10.25/5.15/24) trav-
els out around the lake
year-round. GREAT BRITAIN 18 CLASSIC LAKES
Back in town, don’t
miss a visit to George
Fisher (%017687-72178;
www.georgefisher.co.uk; 2 Bor-
rowdale Rd; h9am-5.30pm
Mon-Sat, 10am-4pm Sun), the
most famous outdoors
shop in the Lake District:
if you need a new pair of
hiking boots, this is defi-
nitely the place to come.
4 p259
The Drive » The drive into
Borrowdale on the B5289 is a
beauty, passing several pretty
villages as it travels through
the valley. You can’t get lost en
route to Honister Pass (10 miles
from Keswick) – there’s only one
road to take; Buttermere lies
on the other side of the pass.
You’ll want to stop for numerous
photos on the way.

TRIP HIGHLIGHT
6 Borrowdale &
Buttermere
South of Keswick, the
B5289 tracks along the
eastern side of Der-
wentwater and enters
the bucolic valley of
Borrowdale, a classic
Lakeland canvas of fields,

253

fells, streams and endless and is backed by a string £7.20/3.60; h11am-5pm
drystone walls. It’s worth of impressive fells. The Sat-Thu Mar-Oct) in Cock-
stopping off to see the summit of Haystacks is a ermouth. Now owned
geological oddity of the popular route: it was the by the National Trust,
Bowder Stone, a huge favourite fell of Alfred it’s been redecorated
boulder deposited by a Wainwright, who penned in period style accord-
glacier, and for a quick the definitive seven- ing to details published
hike up to the top of Cas- volume set of guidebooks in Wordsworth’s own
tle Crag, which has the of the Lake District’s fells father’s accounts: you
best views of the valley. between the 1950s and can wander round the
Then it’s up and over ’70s. It’s a two- to three- drawing room, kitchen,
the perilously steep hour return walk from pantry and garden, and
Honister Pass, where the Buttermere. see the rooms where lit-
Lake District’s last work- The Drive » From Buttermere tle Willie and his brother
ing slate mine (%017687- village, bear left on the B5289 John slept.
77230; www.honister-slate signed towards Loweswater Cockermouth is also
-mine.co.uk; mine tour adult/ and Crummock Water, which the home of local beer-
child £12.50/7.50; htours continues into the Lorton Valley. maker Jennings Brewery
10.30am, 12.30pm & 3.30pm At Low Lorton, stay on the (%01900-821011; www.
Mar-Oct) is still doing a B5289, which continues 4 miles jenningsbrewery.co.uk; adult/
thriving trade. You can to Cockermouth. Total distance: child £9/4.50; hguided tours
take a guided tour down 11 miles. 1.30pm Wed-Sat), where
GREAT BRITAIN 18 CLASSIC LAKES
into the mine or brave you can take a guided
the heights along the 7 Cockermouth tour and learn about
stomach-upsetting Via the brewing process,
Ferrata, and pick up slate Grasmere might be then sample a couple
souvenirs in the shop. Wordsworth central, but of ales such as Cocker
Nearby Buttermere completists will want to Hoop and the excellently
has a sparkling twinset visit the poet’s childhood named Sneck Lifter. Just
of lakes, Buttermere home (NT; %01900- a snifter, mind – you’re
and Crummock Water, 824805; Main St; adult/child driving, after all.
The Drive » Head west on the
A66 and detour onto the A595,
DETOUR: which tracks the coast all the
WHINLATTER way to Whitehaven. To reach
FOREST PARK Wasdale (35 miles all up), turn
off at Gosforth, and then follow
Start: 6 Buttermere (p253) signs to Nether Wasdale and
Encompassing 1200 hectares of pine, larch and Wasdale Head. It’s quite easy to
miss the turning, so keep your
spruce, Whinlatter (www.forestry.gov.uk/whinlatter) is eyes peeled; sat-navs can be
England’s only true mountain forest, rising sharply very unreliable here.
to 790m about 5 miles from Keswick. The forest is
a designated red squirrel reserve; you can check TRIP HIGHLIGHT
out live video feeds from squirrel cams at the visitor
centre. It’s also home to two exciting mountain-bike 8 Wasdale
trails and a tree-top assault course. You can hire Wild Wasdale is argu-
bikes next to the visitor centre. ably the most dramatic
To get to Whinlatter Forest Park from Buttermere, valley in the national
look out for the right turn onto the B5292 at Low park. Carving its way for
Lorton, which climbs up to Whinlatter Pass. 5 miles from the coast,


254

it was gouged out by a
long-extinct glacier dur-
ing the last Ice Age; if DETOUR:
you look closely, you can ST BEES HEAD
still see glacial marks on
the scree-strewn slopes Start: 7 Cockermouth
above Wastwater. Most Cumbria’s coastline might not have the white
people come for the sandy beaches of Wales or the epic grandeur of the
chance to reach the sum- Scottish coast, but it has a bleak beauty all of its
mit of Scafell Pike, Eng- own – not to mention a renowned seabird reserve at
land’s highest point; it’s a St Bees Head (RSPB; [email protected]), where
tough six- to seven-hour you can spot species including fulmars, herring
slog, but the views from gulls, kittiwakes and razorbills. You can also look for
the top are quite literally England’s only nesting black guillemots at nearby
as good as they get (as- Fleswick Bay. Just try and forget the fact that one of
suming the weather plays the UK’s largest nuclear reactors, Sellafield, is round GREAT BRITAIN 18 CLASSIC LAKES
ball, of course). the corner.
Afterwards, reward The village of St Bees is 5 miles south of White-
yourself with a meal at haven, and the headland is signposted from there.
the Wasdale Head Inn
(%019467-26229; www.
wasdale.com; s £59, d coast. Now known as the
£118-130, tr £177; pW), a Ravenglass & Eskdale TRIP HIGHLIGHT
gloriously olde-worlde Railway (%01229-717171; a Hardknott Pass &
hostelry with lashings www.ravenglass-railway.co.uk;
of mountain heritage: it adult/child/family return Wrynose Pass
was here that the sport £13.50/6.75/38; c), its At the eastern end of
of rock climbing was pio- miniature choo-choos Eskdale lie England’s
neered in the mid-19th are a beloved Lakeland two steepest road passes,
century. attraction. They chuff Hardknott and Wrynose.
for 7 miles along the
The Drive » Retrace your valley from the station at Reaching 30% gradient
route to Gosforth, and take the Ravenglass to the final in some places, and with
coast road (A595) south to terminus at Dalegarth. precious few passing
Ravenglass and follow signs to Nearby, the Boot Inn places on the narrow,
Eskdale (22 miles). Alternatively, single-file road, they’re
there’s a shortcut into Eskdale (%019467-23224; www. absolutely not for the
via Nether Wasdale and Santon thebooteskdale.co.uk; Boot; faint-hearted or for
Bridge, but it’s easy to get lost, mains £10-18; p) makes a nervous drivers – but the
especially if you’re relying on pleasant stop for lunch. views are amazing, and
sat-nav; a good road map is
really handy here. The Drive » Since you’re they’re doable if you take
driving, the most sensible idea is things slow (although it’s
to park near Dalegarth Station, probably best to leave the
ride the train to Ravenglass
9 Eskdale and back, and then set off for caravan or motor home
The valley of Eskdale was Hardknott Pass. There’s only in the garage). Make sure
your car has plenty of
once a centre for mineral- one road east. Take it and get
mining, and a miniature ready for a hair-raising, white- oil and water, as you’ll
knuckle drive. It’s 6 (very steep!) do much of the road in
steam train was built
to carry ore down from miles from Eskdale to Hardknott 1st gear, and the strain
on the engine can be
Pass.
the hillsides to the
taxing. Take it slow, and
255

take breaks – you need the counties of Cumber- hikers, but it’s perhaps
to keep your focus on the land, Westmorland and best known for the world
road ahead. Lancashire histori- speed record attempts
From Eskdale, the cally met. Then it’s a slow made here by father and
road ascends via a descent down through son Malcolm and Donald
series of very sharp, hairpins and corners to Campbell between the
steep switchbacks to the the packhorse Slaters 1930s and 1960s. Though
remains of Hardknott Bridge and on into the they jointly broke many
Fort, a Roman outpost valley of Little Langdale. records, in 1967 Donald
where you can still see Phew! You made it. was tragically killed
the remains of some of The Drive » Once you reach during an attempt in his
the walls. Soon after you Little Langdale, follow the road jet-boat Bluebird; the lit-
reach Hardknott Pass at east until you reach the A593, tle Ruskin Museum (www.
393m (1289ft). The vistas the main road between Skelwith ruskinmuseum.com; adult/
here are magnificent: Bridge and Coniston. Turn right child £6/3; h10am-5.30pm
you’ll be able to see all and follow it for 5 miles. Easter–mid-Nov, 10.30am-
the way to the coast on 3.30pm Wed-Sun mid-Nov–
a clear day. Next you’ll Easter) has the full story.
drop down into Cockley b Coniston Coniston Water is also
Beck before continuing South of Ambleside, the said to have been the
the climb up to Wrynose old mining village of inspiration for Arthur
GREAT BRITAIN 18 CLASSIC LAKES
Pass (393m/1289ft). Near Coniston is dominated Ransome’s classic chil-
the summit is a small by its hulking fell, the dren’s tale, Swallows and
car park containing the Old Man of Coniston, an Amazons. The best way
Three Shire Stone, where ever-popular objective for to explore is aboard the
Steam Yacht Gondola (NT;
%015394-63850; www.
HILL TOP nationaltrust.org.uk/steam-
yacht-gondola; Coniston
Two miles from Hawkshead in the tiny village of Near Jetty; half lake adult/child
Sawrey, the idyllic cottage at Hill Top (NT; %015394- return £11/5.50, full lake adult/
36269; www.nationaltrust.org.uk/hill-top; adult/child £10/5, child/family £21.50/10/51),
admission to garden & shop free; hhouse 10am-5.30pm a beautifully restored
Mon-Thu, 10am-4.30pm Fri-Sun, garden 10am-5.45pm steam yacht built in 1859.
Mon-Thu, 10am-5pm Fri-Sun) is the most famous house It travels over the lake
in the whole of the Lake District. It belonged to to the stately home of
Beatrix Potter, and was used as inspiration for many Brantwood (%015394-
of her tales: the house features directly in Samuel 41396; www.brantwood.org.uk;
Whiskers, Tom Kitten, Pigling Bland and Jemima adult/child £7.50/free, gardens
Puddleduck, and you will doubtless recognise the only £4.95/free; h10.30am-
kitchen garden from Peter Rabbit. 5pm mid-Mar–mid-Nov, to 4pm
Following her death in 1943, Beatrix bequeathed Wed-Sun mid-Nov–mid-Mar),
Hill Top (along with more than 4000 acres of land) to owned by the Victorian
the National Trust, with the proviso that the house be polymath, critic, painter
left with her belongings and decor untouched. The and inveterate collector
house formed the centrepiece for celebrations to John Ruskin. The house
mark the author’s 150th birthday in 2016. is packed with furniture
Entry is by timed ticket; it’s very, very popular, so and crafts, and the gar-
try visiting in late afternoon or on weekdays to avoid dens are glorious.
the worst crowds.
4 p259

256

JUSTIN FOULKES / LONELY PLANET ©
































Ambleside Bar at the historic Drunken Duck pub
The Drive » Heading north ably pretty confection of and botanical paintings
from Coniston, turn right onto whitewashed cottages, (she had a particular
the B5285 up Hawkshead winding lanes and slate fascination with fungi).
Hill. You’ll pass Tarn Hows and roofs. It’s car-free, so you Nearby, make a detour
the Drunken Duck en route to
Hawkshead, about 4 miles east. can wander at will: don’t via the manmade lake
miss the Beatrix Potter of Tarn Hows before
Gallery (NT; www.national- stopping for lunch at
c Hawkshead trust.org.uk/beatrix-potter-gal- the Lake District’s finest
If you’re searching for lery; Red Lion Sq; adult/child dining pub, the wonder-
£6/3; h10.30am-5pm Sat-Thu fully named Drunken
the perfect chocolate-box mid-Mar–Oct), which has a Duck.
lakeland village, look no collection of the artist’s
further – you’ve found it original watercolours 5 p259
in Hawkshead, an improb-


257

The Drive » Head back to
Ambleside and then follow
the A591 back towards DETOUR:
Windermere. Just before you GRIZEDALE FOREST
reach it, take the turn-off onto
the A592 to Troutbeck Bridge, Start: c Hawkshead (p257)
which climbs up to the lofty Stretching for 6000 acres across the hilltops
Kirkstone Pass – at 454m this between Coniston Water and Esthwaite Water,
is the highest mountain pass
in Cumbria that’s open to road Grizedale Forest (www.forestry.gov.uk/grizedale) is
traffic. It’s steep, but it’s a main a wonderful place for a wander. It’s criss-crossed
A-road so it’s well maintained. by cycling trails, and is also home to more than
40 outdoor sculptures created by artists over the
last 30 years, including a xylophone and a man
d Ullswater of the forest. There’s an online guide at www.
From the windlashed grizedalesculpture.org.
heights of Kirkstone As you leave the Hawkshead car park, you’ll
Pass, the A592 loops immediately see a brown sign for Grizedale, heading
down towards the last right onto North Lonsdale Rd. Just follow the brown
stop on this jaunt around signs from here – it’s 3 miles’ drive from the village.
the Lake District: stately
Ullswater, the national As you skirt up the For an epic end to the
GREAT BRITAIN 18 CLASSIC LAKES
park’s second-largest lake lake’s western edge, it’s trip, strap on your hiking
(after Windermere). It’s worth stopping for a boots and tackle the
an impressive sight, its walk around Gowbar- famous ridge climb via
silvery surface framed by row Park, where there’s Striding Edge to the sum-
jagged fells and plied by a clattering waterfall to mit of Helvellyn, the Lake
the puttering Ullswater admire called Aira Force, District’s third-highest
‘Steamers’ (%017684- and impressive displays mountain at 950m. You’ll
82229; www.ullswater-steam- of daffodils in springtime need a head for heights,
ers.co.uk; round-the-lake adult/ (Wordsworth dreamt up but you’ll feel a real sense
child £13.90/6.95); you can his most famous poem of achievement: you’ve
also hire your own ves- while walking nearby, just conquered perhaps
sels from the Glenridding the one which starts ‘I the finest hill walk in all
Sailing Centre.
wandered lonely as a of England.
cloud...’).



















258

Eating & Sleeping



Bowness-on-Windermere 1 Keswick 5
4 Cranleigh Hotel £££ 4 Howe Keld B&B ££
(%015394-43293; www.thecranleigh.com; (%017687-72417; www.howekeld.co.uk; 5-7 The
Kendal Rd, Bowness-on-Windermere; d £119-189, Heads; s £60-85, d £112-130; pW) This gold-
ste £305-515; pW) This guesthouse has standard B&B pulls out all the stops: goose-down
gone all out on the decor, but strip away the duvets, slate-floored bathrooms, chic colours
snazziness and it’s still just a B&B. It’s worth and locally made furniture. The best rooms have
bumping up to the superior for the spacious views across Crow Park and the golf course,
bathrooms or maybe blowing the budget on one and the breakfast is a pick-and-mix delight. Free
of the two over-the-top suites (check out the parking is available on The Heads if there’s space. GREAT BRITAIN 18 CLASSIC LAKES
Sanctuary, complete with Bose stereo, glass
bath and picture-fireplace).
Coniston b
Ambleside 2 4 Bank Ground Farm B&B ££
(%015394-41264; www.bankground.com;
5 Lake Road Kitchen Bistro £££ East of the Lake; d from £90; p) This lakeside
(%015394-22012; www.lakeroadkitchen.co.uk; farmhouse has literary cachet: Arthur Ransome
Lake Rd; 5-/8-course tasting menu £50/80; used it as the model for Holly Howe Farm in
h6-9.30pm Wed-Sun) This much-lauded new Swallows and Amazons. Parts of the house date
bistro has brought some dazzle to Ambleside’s back to the 15th century, so the rooms are snug.
dining scene. Its Noma-trained head chef Some have sleigh beds, others exposed beams.
James Cross explores the ‘food of the north’, The tearoom is a beauty too, and there are
and his multicourse tasting menus are chock cottages for longer stays. Two-night minimum.
full of locally sourced, seasonal and foraged
ingredients, from shore-sourced seaweed to
forest-picked mushrooms. Presentation is Hawkshead c
impeccable, flavours are experimental, and
the Scandi-inspired decor is just so. A meal not 5 Drunken Duck Pub Food £££
to miss. (%015394-36347; www.drunkenduckinn.co.uk;
Barngates; lunch mains £7-12, dinner mains £22;
hnoon-2pm & 6-10pm; pW) Long one of the
Grasmere 4 Lakes’ premier dining destinations, the Drunken
Duck blends historic pub and fine-dining
4 How Foot Lodge B&B ££ restaurant. On a wooded crossroads on the top
(%015394-35366; www.howfootlodge.co.uk; of Hawkshead Hill, it’s renowned for its luxurious
Town End; d £76-85; p) Just a stroll from food and home-brewed ales, and the flagstones
Dove Cottage, this stone house has six rooms and sporting prints conjure a convincing country
finished in fawns and beiges; the nicest are the atmosphere. Book well ahead for dinner or take
deluxe doubles, one with a sun terrace and the your chances at lunchtime.
other with a private sitting room. Rates are an If you fancy staying, you’ll find the rooms
absolute bargain considering the location. (£105 to £325) are just as fancy as the food. The
pub’s tricky to find: drive along the B5286 from
Hawkshead towards Ambleside and look out for
the brown signs.



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Location Caption details to go here

#

GIMAS / SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Royal Highlands
& Cairngorms 19








The heart of the Scottish Highlands features a feast of castles and
mountains, wild rollercoaster roads, ancient Caledonian pine
forest, and the chance to see Highland wildlife up close and personal.

TRIP HIGHLIGHTS
4–5 DAYS
110 miles 51 miles 149 MILES /
Blair Castle Loch Garten 238KM
Explore the home of Watch ospreys nesting
the dukes of Atholl, amid ancient
Scotland's leading Caledonian pine forest GREAT FOR...
aristocratic family
GJB
# # #
#
5
BEST TIME TO GO
July and August mean
good weather and all
attractions are open.
2
#
l L
Braemar # # ESSENTIAL
I PHOTO
The gorgeous view of
Schiehallion mountain
9 miles from Queen’s View on
# # #
9
# Balmoral Castle Loch Tummel.
Visit Her Majesty the
Queen's own Highland BEST FOR
estate K
WILDLIFE
m K
# Aberfeldy Watching the nesting
ospreys at Loch
Garten.
Location Caption details to go here 261
Balmoral Castle One of the royal family’s residences

Royal Highlands
19 & Cairngorms



You’ll tick off the highlights of Royal Deeside and the central Highlands as
you make this circuit around Cairngorms National Park. Queen Victoria kick-
started the Scottish tourism industry when she purchased Balmoral Castle in
the middle of the 19th century, and her descendants still holiday here. Later,
heed the call of the great outdoors with a visit to an osprey nesting site, and
a funicular ride to a mountain top.




Loch Ness / · Grantown- # \ Cabrach # \
on-Spey
A9
Bridge
# . Carrbridge # \ Broomhill of Brown
# \
F G # \ Foyers # Loch # \ #
# \ # Tomintoul
4
20
# 5
# \ Invermoriston Monadhliath Garten # \
Mountains Blairnamarrow
Aviemore # # \ Coylumbridge Cock # \ # \ Calnabaichin
#
# \
6
Cairngorms
Highland # \ # H National Park Bridge 0 ¸
A939
# 7
Wildlife Park # Kincraig p264 R Cairn Gorm
Kingussie Ben Macdui R (1245m)
Newtonmore # \ # \ (1309m) Gairn
# Cairngorm # 3 # \ #Ballater
#
8
Mountains
Highland
l L
# 2
Spey Folk Museum Braemar # 1 # \ # # Balmoral
Castle
/ · # \ Dalwhinnie R
A86
Pattack Lochnagar
(1155m)
/ · Grampian Mountains # \ Clova
A9
Spittal of
# \ Glenshee
Blair Atholl
Loch Tay # Ben Vrackie
# \ #
9
Ericht Forest R (840m) # \ Cray
Kinloch Park # \ Killiecrankie
Rannoch # \ Kirkmichael
#
Killichonan # \ Loch # \ Tummel # \ Queen's # \ Pitlochry
Rannoch Bridge View
Forfar # \
Bridge of
# \ # Aberfeldy
10
Balgie Fortingall # m K
# \ # \
Loch # H Ben Loch Tay # \ Kenmore # \ Blairgowrie
Lyon Lawers # \ Dunkeld
p268 (1214m) R 0 20 km
40 miles toFG ‚ # e 0 10 miles
15

There are Highland quarters! The main at-
1 Braemar games in many towns traction is learning about
Braemar is a pretty little and villages throughout Highland estate manage-
village with a grand the summer, but the best ment, rather than royal
location on a broad plain known is the Braemar revelations.
Gathering (www.brae
You can buy a booklet
ringed by mountains
where the Dee valley margathering.org), which that details several
and Glen Clunie meet. takes place on the first waymarked walks within
In winter this is one of Saturday in September. Balmoral Estate; the best
the coldest places in the 54 p269 is the climb to Prince
Albert’s Cairn.
country – temperatures
as low as -29°C have been The Drive » The upper valley The Drive » Continue east
of the River Dee stretches east
recorded. from Braemar to Aboyne. Made on the A93 for another 8 miles
Just north of the vil- famous by its long association to Ballater.
lage, turreted Braemar with the monarchy, the region is
Castle (www.braemarcastle. often called Royal Deeside. Head
co.uk; adult/child £8/4; east from Braemar on the A93 3 Ballater
h10am-4pm daily Jul & Aug, for 9 miles to the car park at the The attractive village of
Wed-Sun Apr-Jun, Sep & Oct; entrance to Balmoral Castle. Ballater owes its 18th- GREAT BRITAIN 19 ROYAL HIGHLANDS & CAIRNGORMS
p) dates from 1628 and century origins to the
served as a government TRIP HIGHLIGHT curative waters of nearby
garrison after the 1745 2 Balmoral Castle Pannanich Springs (now
Jacobite rebellion. It was bottled commercially as
taken over by the local Built for Queen Victoria Deeside Natural Mineral
community in 2007, and in 1855 as a private Water), and its prosper-
now offers guided tours residence for the royal ity to nearby Balmoral
of the historic castle family, Balmoral Castle Castle.
apartments. (%01339-742534; www. The village recently
balmoralcastle.com; Crathie; received a double dose
adult/child £11.50/5; h10am- of misfortune when the
5pm Apr-Jul, last admission Old Royal Station (its
LINK 4.30pm; p) kicked off the main tourist attraction)
YOUR revival of the Scottish burned down in May
TRIP Baronial style of archi- 2015, followed by the
tecture that characterises worst flooding in living
k Great Glen so many of Scotland’s memory in January 2016.
The stirring 19th-century country Most businesses were
wilderness of the houses. The admission open again by summer
northwest Highlands fee includes an interest- 2016, but the the station
awaits – it’s an hour and ing and well-thought-out may remain closed until
three-quarters west to audioguide, but the tour 2018.
Glen Coe. is very much an outdoor There are many pleas-
one through garden and ant walks in the sur-
f The Best of grounds. rounding area. The steep
Britain
As for the castle itself,
Head an hour and a half only the ballroom, which woodland walk up Craig-
endarroch (400m) takes
south to Edinburgh to displays a collection of just over one hour; ask
begin our epic loop of Landseer paintings and at the tourist office for
Britain’s greatest hits at royal silver, is open to the more info. If you’d rather
its midpoint. public. Don’t expect to cycle, you can hire bikes
see the Queen’s private
263

from CycleHighlands (637m) where there’s a small ry, with reconstructions
(%01339-755864; www. skiing area (it’s usually the first of a crofter’s kitchen and
cyclehighlands.com; The road in Scotland to be blocked a blacksmith’s forge.
Pavilion, Victoria Rd; bicycle by snow when winter closes in). There’s excellent
hire per half-day/day £12/18; mountain biking at the
h9am-6pm) and Bike BikeGlenlivet (www.glen-
Station (%01339-754004; 4 Tomintoul livetestate.co.uk; trails free,
www.bikestationballater.co.uk; Tomintoul (tom-in-towel) parking £3) trail centre, 4.5
Station Sq; bicycle hire per 3hr/ is a pretty, stone-built miles north of Tomintoul,
day £12/18; h9am-6pm), village with a grassy, off the B9136 road.
which also offer guided tree-lined main square. It
bike rides and advice on was built by the Duke of 54 p269
local trails. Gordon in 1775 on the old The Drive » Continue
military road that leads northwest from Tomintoul on
4 p269 over the Lecht pass from the A939 for 8.5 miles before
The Drive » The A939 strikes Corgarff, a route now fol- turning left on a minor road to
north through the mountains lowed by the A939. The the village of Nethy Bridge. In
from Ballater to Tomintoul (25 village’s recently refur- the village, turn left towards
miles). The section beyond bished and extended Aviemore on the B970 then,
Cock Bridge is a magnificent museum (%01807-580285; after 600m, turn left again on a
rollercoaster of a road, much The Square; h10am-5pm Apr- minor road to Loch Garten (total
loved by motorcyclists, Oct) celebrates local histo- 17 miles).
summiting at the Lecht pass


DETOUR:
CAIRNGORM MOUNTAIN
GREAT BRITAIN 19 ROYAL HIGHLANDS & CAIRNGORMS
Start: 6 Aviemore
Cairngorm Mountain (1245m), 10 miles southeast of Aviemore, is the sixth-highest
summit in the UK and home to Scotland’s biggest ski area. A funicular railway ferries
skiers almost to the top of the mountain, and continues to operate throughout the
summer so that visitors can get a taste of the high mountain plateau.
The Cairngorm Mountain Railway (%01479-861261; www.cairngormmountain.org;
adult/child return £11.50/7.50; hevery 20min 10am-4pm May-Nov, 9am-4.30pm Dec-Apr; p)
is the national park’s most popular attraction, whisking you to the edge of the
Cairngorm plateau (altitude 1085m) in just eight minutes. The bottom station is at
the Coire Cas car park at the end of Ski Rd; at the top is an exhibition, a shop (of
course) and a restaurant. For environmental and safety reasons, you’re not allowed
out of the top station in summer unless you book a guided walk or mountain-bike
descent; check the website for details.
Six miles east of Aviemore, on the road to Cairngorm Mountain, Loch Morlich
is surrounded by some 8 sq miles of pine and spruce forest that make up the
Glenmore Forest Park. Its attractions include a sandy beach (at the east end) and a
watersports centre.
Nearby, the Cairngorm Reindeer Centre (www.cairngormreindeer.co.uk; Glenmore;
adult/child £14/8; hclosed early Jan–mid-Feb; c) runs guided walks to see and feed
Britain’s only herd of reindeer, who are very tame and will even eat out of your hand.
Walks take place at 11am daily (weather-dependent), plus another at 2.30pm from
May to September, and a third at 3.30pm Monday to Friday in July and August.


264

cruising the outdoor- Mar; p) features a drive-
TRIP HIGHLIGHT equipment shops or through safari park as
5 Loch Garten recounting their latest well as animal enclosures
A car park on the shores adventures in the cafes that offer the chance to
view rarely seen native
and bars.
of Loch Garten, amid Strathspey Steam wildlife, such as Scottish
beautiful open forest Railway (%01479-810725; wildcats, capercaillies,
of Scots pine, gives ac- pine martens and red
cess to the RSPB Loch Station Sq; return adult/child
£14.25/7.15; p) runs steam squirrels, as well as spe-
Garten Osprey Centre trains on a section of cies that once roamed the
(%01479-831694; www.rspb. restored line between Scottish hills but have
org.uk/lochgarten; Tulloch; Aviemore and Broomhill, long since disappeared,
osprey hide adult/child £5/2; 10 miles to the north- including wolves, lynx,
hosprey hide 10am-6pm east, via Boat of Garten. wild boars, beavers and
Apr-Aug). Ospreys nest in There are four or five European bison. Last
a tall pine tree on the trains daily from June entry is two hours before
reserve – you can watch to August, and a more closing.
from a hide as the birds limited service in April,
feed their young, and May, September, October The Drive » Continue
see live CCTV feeds from and December. southwest on the B9152 through GREAT BRITAIN 19 ROYAL HIGHLANDS & CAIRNGORMS
the nest. These rare and The Cairngorm Sled- Kingussie to the Highland Folk
Museum (6.5 miles).
beautiful birds – the Dog Centre (%07767-
only bird of prey in the 270526; www.sled-dogs.
world that eats only co.uk; Ski Rd; c) will take 8 Highland Folk
fish – migrate here each you on a 30-minute sled
spring from Africa, arriv- tour of local forest trails Museum
ing in April and leaving in the wake of a team of The old Speyside towns
in August (check the huskies, or a three-hour of Kingussie (kin-yew-
website to see if they’re sled-dog safari. The sleds see) and Newtonmore sit
in residence). at the foot of the great
have wheels, so snow’s heather-clad humps
The Drive » The minor road not necessary. known as the Monadh-
leads back to the B970, where
you turn left along the banks of 4 p269 liath Mountains. New-
the River Spey to Coylumbridge; The Drive » From Aviemore tonmore is best known as
turn right here to reach drive south on the B99152, the home of the excellent
Aviemore (11 miles). Highland Folk Museum
which follows the valley of the
River Spey; after 8.5 miles, soon (%01540-673551; www.high
after passing through the vilage landfolk.museum; Kingussie
6 Aviemore of Kincraig, you’ll see a sign Rd, Newtonmore; h10.30am-
The gateway to the on the right for the Highland 5.30pm Apr-Aug, 11am-4.30pm
Cairngorms, Aviemore Wildlife Park. Sep & Oct; p), an open-air
may not be the prettiest collection of historical
town in Scotland – the buildings and artefacts
main attractions are in 7 Highland revealing many aspects
the surrounding area – Wildlife Park of Highland culture and
but when bad weather The Highland Wildlife lifestyle. Laid out like
puts the hills off-limits, Park (%01540-651270; www. a farming township,
Aviemore fills up with highlandwildlifepark.org; Kin- it has a community of
hikers, cyclists and craig; adult/child £15.40/11.55; traditional thatch-roofed
climbers (plus skiers and h10am-6pm Jul & Aug, to 5pm cottages, a sawmill, a
snowboarders in winter) Apr-Jun & Sep-Oct, to 4pm Nov- schoolhouse, a shepherd’s

265

WHY THIS IS A ©CRAIG EASTON / LONELY PLANET ©
GREAT TRIP
NEIL WILSON,
WRITER
Pretty much everything about this
trip screams classic Scotland –
MILOSZ MASLANKA / SHUTTERSTOCK ©
romantic castles set amid forest-
fringed hills (including the British
royal family’s own holiday home);
picturesque Highland villages beside
salmon-filled rivers; hiking and
mountain biking amid wild mountain
scenery in the heart of Britain’s
biggest national park; iconic
Scottish wildllife experiences (think
ospreys, reindeer, wildcats); there’s
even a whisky distillery thrown in for
good measure!
Top: Wild red deer
Left: A road through Cairngorms National Park
Right: Loch Garten

bothy (hut) and a rural
post office.
The Drive » Join the main
A9 Inverness to Perth road and
follow it south for 35 miles to
CHRIS PETTY/ 500PX ©
Blair Atholl, passing through
bleak mountain scenery and
climbing to a high point of 460m
at the Pass of Drumochter
TRIP HIGHLIGHT
9 Blair Atholl
The village of Blair Atholl
dates only from the early
19th century, built by the
Duke of Atholl, head of
the Murray clan, whose
seat – magnificent Blair GREAT BRITAIN 19 ROYAL HIGHLANDS & CAIRNGORMS
Castle (%01796-481207;
www.blair-castle.co.uk; adult/
child £10.70/6.40, family
£28.90; h9.30am-5.30pm
Easter-Oct, 10am-4pm Sat &
Sun Nov-Mar; pc) – is
one of the most popular
tourist attractions in
Scotland.
Thirty rooms are open
to the public and they
present a wonderful
picture of upper-class
Highland life from the
16th century on. The
original tower was built
in 1269, but the castle
underwent significant
remodelling in the 18th
and 19th centuries.
Highlights include the
2nd-floor Drawing Room
with its ornate Georgian
plasterwork and Zoffany
portrait of the 4th duke’s
family, complete with a
pet lemur (yes, you read
that correctly) called
Tommy; and the Tapes-
try Room draped with




267

17th-century wall hang-
ings created for Charles I. DETOUR:
The dining room is sump- GLEN LYON
tuous – check out the
9-pint wine glasses – and Start: a Aberfeldy
the ballroom is a vast The ‘longest, loneliest and loveliest glen in Scotland’,
oak-panelled chamber according to Sir Walter Scott, stretches for 32
hung with hundreds of unforgettable miles of rickety stone bridges, native
stag antlers.
woodland and heather-clad hills, becoming wilder
4 p269 and more uninhabited as it snakes its way west. The
ancients believed it to be a gateway to Faerieland,
The Drive » Follow the B8079 and even the most sceptical of visitors will be
southeast out of Blair Atholl for entranced by the valley’s magic.
a few miles, past the historic There are no villages in the glen – the majestic
battle site of Killiecrankie,
and turn right on the B8019 scenery is the main reason to be here – just a cluster
Strathtummel road. This of houses at Bridge of Balgie, where the Bridge of
gloriously scenic road leads Balgie Tearoom (%01887-866221; Bridge of Balgie;
along Loch Tummel (stop for snacks £3-5; h10am-5pm Apr-Oct; pW#), with a
photographs at Queen’s View) suntrap of a terrace overlooking the river, serves as
to Tummel Bridge; turn left here a hub for walkers, cyclists and motorists. The owner
on the B846 over the hills to is a fount of knowledge about the glen, and her
Aberfeldy (29 miles).
pistachio and almond cake is legendary.
There are several waymarked woodland walks
beginning from a car park a short distance beyond
a Aberfeldy Bridge of Balgie, and more challenging hill walks into
Aberfeldy is the gateway the surrounding mountains (see www.walkhighlands.
to Breadalbane (the co.uk/perthshire).
GREAT BRITAIN 19 ROYAL HIGHLANDS & CAIRNGORMS
historic region surround- From Abefeldy, the B846 leads to the pretty
ing Loch Tay), and a good village Fortingall, famous for its ancient yew tree,
base: adventure sports, where a narrow minor road strikes west up the glen;
angling, art and castles another steep and spectacular route from Loch Tay
all feature on the menu crosses the hills to meet it at Bridge of Balgie. The
here. It’s a peaceful, road continues west as far as the dam on Loch Lyon,
pretty place on the banks passing a memorial to Robert Campbell (1808–94),
of the Tay, but if it’s a Canadian explorer and fur trader, who was born in
moody lochs and glens the glen.
that steal your heart, you
may want to push further
west into Glen Lyon. of town is Aberfeldy blending session. More
You arrive in the town Distillery (www.dewars.com; expensive tours allow
by crossing the River Tay tour adult/child £9.50/4.50; you to try venerable
via the elegant Wade’s h10am-6pm Mon-Sat, noon- Aberfeldy single malts
Bridge, built in 1733 as 4pm Sun Apr-Oct, 10am-4pm and others.
part of the network of Mon-Sat Nov-Mar; p), home
military roads designed of the famous Dewar’s 4 p269
to tame the Highlands. whisky; tours include an
At the eastern end entertaining interactive





268

Eating & Sleeping




Braemar 1 Aviemore 6
4 St Margarets B&B £ 4 Cairngorm Hotel Hotel ££
(%01339-741697; [email protected]; 13 (%01479-810233; www.cairngorm.com;
School Rd; s/tw £34/56; W) Grab this place if Grampian Rd; s/d from £72/104; pW) Better
you can, but there’s only one room: a twin with a known as ‘the Cairn’, this long-established hotel
serious sunflower theme. The genuine warmth is set in the fine old granite building with the
in the welcome is delightful. It’s tucked behind pointy turret opposite the train station. It’s a
the church on the south side of the A93 road. welcoming place with comfortable rooms and a
determinedly Scottish atmosphere, with tartan
4 Craiglea B&B ££ carpets and stags’ antlers. There’s live music
(%01339-741641; www.craigleabraemar.com; on weekends, so it can get a bit noisy – not for
Hillside Dr; d/f from £76/105; pW) Craiglea is early-to-bedders.
a homely B&B set in a pretty stone cottage with
three en suite bedrooms. Vegetarian breakfasts
are available and the owners can rent you a bike Blair Atholl 9 GREAT BRITAIN 19 ROYAL HIGHLANDS & CAIRNGORMS
and give advice on local walks.
4 Atholl Arms Hotel Hotel ££
(%01796-481205; www.athollarms.co.uk; r from
Ballater 3 £90; pW#) This hotel, near Blair Atholl train
station, is convenient for the castle, with rooms
4 Auld Kirk Hotel ££ of a high standard; book ahead on weekends.
(%01339-755762; www.theauldkirk.com; The Bothy Bar here is the sibling pub of the
Braemar Rd; s/d from £80/115; pW#) Here’s Moulin Hotel in Pitlochry, snug with booth
something a little out of the ordinary – a seven- seating, an enormous fireplace and bucket-
bedroom hotel housed in a converted 19th- loads of character; there’s no better place to be
century church. The interior blends original when the rain is lashing down outside.
features with sleek modern decor – the pulpit
now serves as the reception desk, while the
breakfast room is bathed in light from leaded Aberfeldy a
Gothic windows.
4 Tigh’n Eilean Guest House B&B ££
(%01887-820109; www.tighneilean.com;
Tomintoul 4 Taybridge Dr; s/d from £48/78; pW#)
Everything about this property screams
4 Argyle Guest House B&B ££ comfort. It’s a gorgeous place overlooking the
(%01807-580766; www.argyletomintoul.co.uk; Tay, with individually designed rooms – one
7 Main St; d/f from £65/115; W#) Comfortable has a Jacuzzi, while another is set on its own in
accommodation for walkers, and the best a cheery yellow summer house in the garden,
porridge in the Cairngorms! giving you a bit of privacy. The garden itself is
fabulous, with hammocks for lazing in, and the
5 Clockhouse Restaurant Scottish ££ riverbank setting is delightful.
(The Square; mains £10-14; hnoon-2pm & 6-8pm)
Serves light lunches and bistro dinners made with
fresh Highland lamb, venison and salmon.






269

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
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5
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Location Caption details to go here

#





DUNCAN ANDISON / SHUTTERSTOCKV ©

Great Glen 20





This lake-and-mountain themed trip leads you through some of
the Highlands’ scenic hotspots, and along the shores of world-
famous Loch Ness – here be monsters!

TRIP HIGHLIGHTS
2–3 DAYS
147 MILES/235KM
81 miles
Urquhart Castle
Evocative ruined GREAT FOR...
m K
castle overlooking # Inverness
monster-haunted JB
Loch Ness
# # #
# BEST TIME TO GO
6
April to see snow
on the mountains,
October for autumn
Glengarry colours in the forests.
Viewpoint # 32 miles
Glen Nevis ESSENTIAL
Superb hiking in the I PHOTO
shadow of Britain's
highest peak Failing a shot of the
Loch Ness monster,
crossing the wire
# # #
4
#
bridge at Steall
Meadows.
l L Glen Coe
# # #
# 1
Awe-inspiring mountain
scenery combines with K BEST FOR
compelling history FAMILIES
0 miles A Nessie-hunting cruise
from Fort Augustus.
Location Caption details to go here 271
Glen Nevis Crossing the wire bridge through Nevis Gorge

TRIP HIGHLIGHT
20 Great Glen 1 Glen Coe
Scotland’s most famous
glen is also one of its
grandest. The A82 road
leads over the Pass of
The Great Glen is a geological fault running in Glencoe and into the
an arrow-straight line across Scotland, filled by narrow upper glen.
The southern side is
a series of lochs including Loch Ness. This trip dominated by three
follows the A82 road along the glen (completed massive, brooding
spurs, known as the
in 1933 – a date that coincides with the first Three Sisters, while the
sightings of the Loch Ness Monster!) and links northern side is enclosed
by the continuous steep
two areas of outstanding natural beauty – Glen wall of the knife-edged
Coe to the south, and Glen Affric to the north. Aonach Eagach ridge, a
classic mountaineering
challenge.




North
# e 0 0 10 miles Orrin Beauly 8 # \Kessock
20 km
# #
\ #
\
# ] #
9
Loch Reservoir # # Culloden
Monar A82 m K
Inverness
# \ Lochcarron Farrar # \ Struy / · Findhorn
# \ Dores F G
Loch 16
Mullardoch Cannich \ # # 7 \ #
# Drumnadrochit
F G H Urquhart # / ·
#
#
16
6
A9
Loch
# Dornie
\
Affric # p276 Castle Loch Ness Carrbridge # \
Five Sisters Glen
of Kintail # \ Foyers
# \ (1068m) Affric
c
\ # Shiel Invermoriston # \ Monadhliath
Glenelg R 0 ¸ Mountains
Bridge / · A887 Aviemore # \
A87
# Arnisdale Cluanie # \ Loch Glengarry # #
\
\ #
Inn Cluanie Loch 5 Fort Augustus Kincraig # \ F G
Ladhar # \ Viewpoint Oich 19
R Bheinn Kinloch # / · Kingussie
A87
(1019m) Hourn Loch \ # # \ R
Quoich Invergarry Newtonmore # \
Loch / ·
A82
Arkaig Loch Glen Roy
Strathan # \ Lochy / ·
Achnacarry \ # A86
Gairlochy \ # Roy # Dalwhinnie
\
Bridge
/ · # Glenfinnan # \ # \
A830
\
Grampian
Corpach Spean Mountains
Bridge
Loch # \ Ben Nevis Loch Loch / ·
A9
# ] #
3
Shiel Fort William # R(1344m) Treig Ericht
# Glen
4
#
16
Nevis F G
Strontian Corran # \ Kinloch Killiecrankie R
# \ Kinlochleven
#
2
/ · Ballachulish \ # # \ Loch # \
# \ # Rannoch # \
A861
l L
A82
\
#
# 1
19
Loch Glencoe / · # Glen Coe Bridge Rannoch F G
Linnhe of Gaur
Aberfeldy
# \

Glencoe Visitor Centre brings a steady stream the Fort has carved out
(NTS; %01855-811307; www. of hikers through the a reputation as ‘Outdoor
glencoe-nts.org.uk; adult/child village. It is also the Capital of the UK’ (www.
£6.50/5; h9.30am-5.30pm starting point for walks outdoorcapital.co.uk).
Easter-Oct, 10am-4pm Thu-Sun up the glen of the River The small but fasci-
Nov-Easter; p) provides Leven, through pleasant nating West Highland
comprehensive informa- woods to the Grey Mare’s Museum (%01397-702169;
tion on the geological, Tail waterfall, and harder www.westhighlandmuseum.
environmental and cul- mountain hikes into the org.uk; Cameron Sq; h10am-
tural history of Glencoe, Mamores. 5pm Mon-Sat Apr-Oct, to 4pm
charts the development Scotland’s first Via Mar & Nov-Dec, closed Jan &
of mountaineering in the Ferrata (%01855-413200; Feb) is packed with all
glen, and tells the story www.glencoeactivities.com; manner of Highland
of the Glencoe Massacre per person/family £55/170) – memorabilia. Look out
in all its gory detail. a 500m climbing route for the secret portrait of
equipped with steel lad- Bonnie Prince Charlie – GREAT BRITAIN 20 GREAT GLEN
54 p277
ders, cables and bridges – after the Jacobite rebel-
The Drive » From Glencoe snakes through the crags lions, all things Highland
village at the foot of the glen, around the Grey Mare’s were banned, including
head east on the B863 for 7 Tail, allowing non- pictures of the exiled
miles along the southern shore climbers to experience leader, and this tiny
of Loch Leven to Kinlochleven.
the thrill of climbing painting looks like noth-
(you’ll need a head for ing more than a smear of
2 Kinlochleven heights, though!). paint until viewed in a
cylindrical mirror.
Kinlochleven is hemmed 5 p277
in by high mountains The Drive » Return west 54 p277
at the head of beauti- along the north side of Loch The Drive » At the
ful Loch Leven, where Leven, perhaps stopping for roundabout on the northern
the West Highland Way lunch at the excellent Lochleven edge of Fort William, take the
Seafood Cafe, then head north minor road that runs into Glen
on the A82 to Fort William (22 Nevis; it leads to a car park at
miles). the far end of the glen, 6.5 miles
LINK away.
YOUR
TRIP 3 Fort William TRIP HIGHLIGHT
j Royal Highlands Basking on the shores 4 Glen Nevis
of Loch Linnhe amid
& Cairngorms
Get your fill of Scottish magnificent mountain Scenic Glen Nevis – used
scenery, Fort William has as a filming location
splendour by beginning one of the most enviable for Braveheart and the
with this tour of castles settings in the whole of Harry Potter movies –
and mountains before Scotland. If it wasn’t for wraps around the base
heading west to Glen Coe. of Ben Nevis, Britain’s
the busy dual carriage-
g Britain’s Wild way crammed between highest mountain.
The Glen Nevis Visitor
the less-than-attractive
Side
Explore more of Britain’s town centre and the loch, Centre (%01397-705922;
www.bennevisweather.co.uk;
and one of the highest
natural beauty spots by rainfall records in the h8.30am-6pm Jul & Aug,
taking this trip in reverse country, it would be 9am-5pm Apr-Jun, Sep & Oct,
from Inverness. 9am-3pm Nov-Mar; p) is
almost idyllic. Even so,
273

situated 1.5 miles up 13m by a ‘ladder’ of five
the glen, and provides consecutive locks. It’s
information on hiking, fun to watch, and the
weather forecasts, and neatly landscaped canal
specific advice on climb- banks are a great place BOUDEWIJN SLUIJK/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
ing Ben Nevis. to soak up the sun. The
From the car park at Caledonian Canal Centre
the end of the road, there (%01320-366493; Ardchattan
is an excellent 1.5-mile House, Canalside; h10am-
walk through the spectac- 4pm), beside the lowest
ular Nevis Gorge to Steall lock, has information on
Meadows, a verdant valley the history of the canal.
dominated by a 100m- Cruise Loch Ness
high bridal-veil waterfall. (%01320-366277; www.
You can reach the foot of cruiselochness.com; adult/
the falls by crossing the child £14/8; hhourly 10am-
river on a wobbly, three- 4pm Apr-Oct, 1 & 2pm only Nov-
cable wire bridge – one Mar), at the jetty beside
cable for your feet and one the canal bridge, oper-
for each hand – a real test ates one-hour cruises on
of balance! Loch Ness accompanied
GREAT BRITAIN 20 GREAT GLEN
by the latest high-tech
The Drive » Return down
Glen Nevis and head north on sonar equipment so you
the A82. At Invergarry, turn left can keep an underwater
onto the A87 which climbs high eye open for the Loch
above Loch Garry; stop at the Ness monster.
famous Glengarry Viewpoint
(layby on left). By a quirk of The Drive » It’s a
perspective, the lochs to the straightforward but scenic
west appear to form the map 17-mile drive along the shores of
outline of Scotland. Return to Loch Ness to Urquhart Castle.
the A87 and continue to Fort
Augustus (44 miles). TRIP HIGHLIGHT
6 Urquhart Castle
5 Fort Augustus Commanding a superb
Fort Augustus, at the location with outstand-
junction of four old mili- ing views over Loch
tary roads, was originally Ness, Urquhart Castle
a government garrison (HS; %01456-450551; adult/ the film) and displays of
and the headquarters of child £8.50/5.10; h9.30am- medieval items discov-
General George Wade’s 6pm Apr-Sep, to 5pm Oct, to ered in the castle. The
road-building operations 4.30pm Nov-Mar; p) is a five-storey tower house at
in the early 18th century. popular Nessie-hunting the northern point is the
Today it’s a neat and hot spot. A huge visitor most impressive remain-
picturesque little place centre (most of which is ing fragment and offers
bisected by the Caledo- beneath ground level) wonderful views across
nian Canal. includes a video theatre the water.
Boats using the canal (with a dramatic ‘reveal’ The Drive » A short hop of 2
are raised and lowered of the castle at the end of miles leads to Drumnadrochit.



274

Loch Ness Fort Augustus Abbey
form of a cardboard cut- for yourself. Exhibits
7 Drumnadrochit out at Drumnadrochit’s include the original
Deep, dark and narrow, monster exhibitions. equipment – sonar
Loch Ness stretches for The Loch Ness Centre survey vessels, miniature
submarines, cameras
23 miles between Inver- (%01456-450573; www.
ness and Fort Augustus. lochness.com; adult/child and sediment coring
Its bitterly cold waters £7.95/4.95; h9.30am-6pm Jul tools – used in various
have been extensively ex- & Aug, to 5pm Easter-Jun, Sep & monster hunts, as well
plored in search of Nes- Oct, 10am-3.30pm Nov-Easter; as original photographs
pc) adopts a scientific
and film footage of
sie, the elusive Loch Ness
monster, but most visi- approach that allows you sightings. You’ll find out
tors see her only in the to weigh the evidence about hoaxes and optical
275

magnificent centuries-old
sycamore tree.
DETOUR: Corner on the Square
GLEN AFFRIC (p277) makes a good
place to break your
Start: 7 Drumnadrochit (p275) journey.
Glen Affric (www.glenaffric.org), one of the
most beautiful glens in Scotland, extends deep 5 p277
into the hills beyond Cannich, halfway between The Drive » Drive east on the
Drumnadrochit and Beauly. The upper reaches of A862 for 12 miles to Inverness.
the glen, now designated as Glen Affric Nature
Reserve, is a scenic wonderland of shimmering
lochs, rugged mountains and native Scots pine 9 Inverness
forest, home to pine martens, wildcats, otters, red Inverness has a great loca-
squirrels and golden eagles. tion astride the River Ness
A narrow, dead-end road leads southwest from
Cannich; about 4 miles along is Dog Falls, a scenic at the northern end of the
Great Glen. In summer
spot where the River Affric squeezes through a it overflows with visitors
narrow, rocky gorge. A circular walking trail (red intent on monster hunting
waymarks) leads from Dog Falls car park to a at nearby Loch Ness, but
footbridge below the falls and back on the far side of
GREAT BRITAIN 20 GREAT GLEN
the river (2 miles, allow one hour). it’s worth a visit in its own
right for a stroll along the
The road continues beyond Dog Falls to a parking
area and picnic site at the eastern end of Loch picturesque River Ness, a
cruise on Loch Ness, and
Affric, where there are several short walks along the
river and the loch shore. The circuit of Loch Affric a meal in one of the city’s
(10 miles, allow five hours walking, two hours by excellent restaurants.
mountain bike) follows good paths right around the The main attraction
loch and takes you deep into the heart of some very in Inverness is a leisurely
wild scenery. stroll along the river to
the Ness Islands. Planted
with mature Scots pine,
illusions, as well as beech and sycamore, and
learning a lot about the 8 Beauly linked to the river banks
ecology of Loch Ness – is Mary, Queen of Scots is and each other by elegant
there enough food in said to have given this Victorian footbridges, the
the loch to support even village its name in 1564 islands make an appealing
one ‘monster’, let alone a when she visited, exclaim- spot. They’re a 20-minute
breeding population? walk south of the castle –
ing in French: ‘Quel beau head upstream on either
The Drive » Head west on the lieu!’ (What a beautiful side of the river (the start
A831 which leads to the village place!). Founded in 1230, of the Great Glen Way),
of Cannich – jumping-off point the red-sandstone Beauty and return on the oppo-
for the Glen Affric detour – Priory is now an impres-
before turning north along lovely sive ruin, haunted by the site bank.
Strathglass to reach Beauly cries of rooks nesting in a 4 p277
(30 miles).








276

Eating & Sleeping


century villa set in its own landscaped grounds,
Glen Coe 1 the Grange is crammed with antiques and fitted
with log fires, chaise lounges and Victorian
4 Clachaig Inn Hotel ££ roll-top baths. The Turret Room, with its window
(%01855-811252; www.clachaig.com; s/d seat in the turret overlooking Loch Linnhe, is
£53/106; pW) The Clachaig, 2 miles east our favourite. It’s 500m southwest of the town
of Glencoe village, has long been a favourite centre. No children.
haunt of hill walkers and climbers. As well as 5 Lime Tree Scottish ££
comfortable en suite accommodation, there’s a
smart, modern lounge bar with snug booths and (%01397-701806; www.limetreefortwilliam.
high refectory tables, mountaineering photos co.uk; Achintore Rd; mains £16-20; h6.30-
and bric-a-brac, and climbing magazines to leaf 9.30pm; pW) Fort William is not over-
through. endowed with great places to eat, but the GREAT BRITAIN 20 GREAT GLEN
restaurant at this small hotel and art gallery
5 Glencoe Café Cafe £ has put the UK’s Outdoor Capital on the
(%01855-811168; www.glencoecafe.co.uk; gastronomic map. The chef turns out delicious
Glencoe village; mains £4-8; h10am-4pm dishes built around fresh Scottish produce,
daily, to 5pm May-Sep, closed Nov; pW) ranging from Loch Fyne oysters to Loch Awe
This friendly cafe is the social hub of Glencoe trout and Ardnamurchan venison.
village, serving breakfast fry-ups till 11.30am
(including vegetarian versions), light lunches
based around local produce (think Cullen skink, Beauly 8
smoked salmon quiche, venison burgers), and Cafe £
the best cappuccino in the glen. 5 Corner on the Square
(%01463-783000; www.corneronthesquare.
co.uk; 1 High St; mains £7-13; h8.30am-5.30pm
Kinlochleven 2 Mon-Fri, 8.30am-5pm Sat, 9.30am-5pm Sun)
Beauly’s best lunch spot is this superb little
5 Lochleven Seafood Cafe Seafood ££ delicatessen and cafe that serves breakfast
(%01855-821048; www.lochlevenseafoodcafe. (till 11.30am), daily lunch specials (11.30am to
co.uk; mains £11-23, whole lobster £40; hmeals 4.30pm) and excellent coffee.
noon-3pm & 6-9pm, coffee & cake 10am-noon &
3-5pm mid-Mar–Oct; pc) This outstanding
place serves superb shellfish freshly plucked Inverness 9
from live tanks – oysters on the half shell, razor
clams, scallops, lobster and crab – plus a daily 4 Heathmount
fish special and some non-seafood dishes. For Hotel Boutique Hotel ££
warm days, there’s an outdoor terrace with a (%01463-235877; www.heathmounthotel.
view across the loch to the Pap of Glencoe, a com; Kingsmills Rd; s/d from £75/105; pW)
distinctive conical mountain. Small and friendly, the Heathmount combines
a popular local bar and restaurant with eight
designer hotel rooms, each one different,
Fort William 3 ranging from a boldly coloured family room in
purple and gold to a slinky black velvet four-
4 Grange B&B £££ poster double. Five minutes’ walk east of the
(%01397-705516; www.grangefortwilliam.com; city centre.
Grange Rd; d £145; pW) An exceptional 19th-





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Location Caption details to go here

West Wales:
BILLY STOCK / SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Swansea to
St Davids 21








This route links two distinctly Welsh cities – one large and one
beyond tiny – by way of Wales’ two most famously beautiful
stretches of coast.

TRIP HIGHLIGHTS

125 miles 4 DAYS
St Davids 125 MILES /
Historic micro-city 201KM
set in an ancient
landscape
GREAT FOR…
BG


BEST TIME TO GO
# June, July and
#
10
# ##
m K # Haverfordwest best beach weather;
St Davids # Carmarthen August offer the
although there’s no
# lL assurances of sun.
# Tenby
Pembroke # # 7 # # # Llanelli
Swansea
# I ESSENTIAL
# # #
Rhossili 4 # # PHOTO
86 miles
The view of Three
Tenby Cliffs Bay from
Postcard-perfect Pennard Castle.
beach town with a
medieval core
Rhossili
Miles of golden sand K BEST FOR
backed by steep- FAMILIES
sloped downs
Splashing about on
20 miles the beach at Tenby.
#
Location Caption details to go here Ù 279
Pembrokeshire Coast Elegug Stack Rocks

West Wales: Swansea to
21 St Davids



The broad sandy arc of Swansea Bay is only a teaser for what is to come.
Once you escape the city sprawl, the wild beauty of the Welsh coast
immediately begins to assert itself. Waves crash against sheer cliffs painted
from a rapidly changing palate of grey, purple and inky black. In between
are some of Britain’s very best beaches: glorious sandy stretches and tiny
remote coves alike.

# \

44
Cardigan
# ]
44 # \ 0 ¸ Cenarth
Moylgrove
A487
# \
Dinas
Nevern
#
\
Goodwick # \ # \ Cross Newport # \ 0 ¸ Henllan # \ Llandysul
# \
# \
A478
Fishguard
0 ¸
# \ 0¸
Trefin # \ A487 44 # \ Bwlch # \ Crymach
Gwynt
Porthgain
B4313
4 # \ PEMBROKESHIRE Pembrokeshire
# \
Abereiddy
Coast
National
m K # # Solva A40 Reservoir
St Davids Porthmelgan 0 ¸ Llys-y-frbn Park
# \ #
10
4
# \ #
9
Clarbeston
Ramsey St Non's # \ #Road Carmarthen
Bay
0 ¸
\
Newgale
#
6
# ]
Island 44 A487 Canaston #
44 4 0 ¸ \ # 0 ¸ # \ # \ Whitland # \ St Clears
St Brides
Bridge
Bay
# \
Haverfordwest
A40
Broad Haven
A477
Coast National
Martin's # \ 0 ¸ A4076 Pembrokeshire Narberth 0 ¸ #H # \ Laugharne
B4327
444
44
p282
Skomer Haven Marloes \ # Johnston Park 4444
Island # \ # \ Milford Daugleddau # \ # \ Kidwelly#
# \ #
5
# Amroth
4en \ # # \ Neyland Carew # \Saundersfoot Pendine
Hav
\
0 ¸
Dale
# \
4444
4 Freshwater #H Dock # \ # Pembroke 4 Carmarthen 444
44
0 ¸
Angle
Pembroke
# \
A478
# \
# \
A477
St Ann's
# \ #
# \
8
#
Bay
# 7
# \ Tenby
Burry
Head
Port
0 ¸
44
Stackpole
West
# \ Manorbier
p286
B4319
Barafundle
\
#
Linney
Bosherston
A T L A N T I C 4444444 Caldey 444
Island
Bay
Head
\
# # \
Llanmadoc
Broad Haven
Stack
O C E A N Rocks St Govan's Llangennith # \ # \
4 44 Rhossili # # \
44
44
Head
# \ #
4
Bristol # \
# e 0 0 10 miles 20 km Channel 44

swanseaindoormarket.co.uk; swan.ac.uk; Mumbles Rd,
1 Swansea Oxford St; h8am-5.30pm Sketty; h10am-4pm Tue-Sat)
Although it’s not the Mon-Sat), then dive into at Swansea University.
most immediately at- the whizz-bang National 4 p289
tractive place, Wales’ Waterfront Museum
second biggest city has (%0300 111 2333; www.muse The Drive » Broad
its own workaday charm umwales.ac.uk; South Dock Ma- Oystermouth Rd traces the edge
of Swansea Bay, changing its
and an enviable setting rina, Oystermouth Rd; h10am- name to Mumbles Rd halfway
on 5-mile-long, sandy, 5pm) and the charmingly along. It’s only 4 miles from
Swansea Bay. An active old-fashioned Swansea central Swansea to the heart of
Museum (%01792-653763;
bar scene is enthusiasti- the Mumbles strip.
cally supported by a large www.swanseamuseum.co.uk;
student population, while Victoria Rd; h10am-5pm
a new brace of afford- Tue-Sun). Fans of Welsh 2 The Mumbles
able ethnic eateries has poet Dylan Thomas Swansea’s swanky seaside
can tour his birthplace
improved the city’s once suburb sprawls along the
drab dining options no (%01792-472555; www. western curve of Swansea
end. dylanthomasbirthplace.com; Bay and terminates in
Fuel up on Welsh cakes 5 Cwmdonkin Dr, Uplands; the pair of rounded hills
hot off the griddle at adult/child £8/6; htours which may have gifted GREAT BRITAIN21 WEST WALES: SWANSEA TO ST DAvIDS
11am, 1pm & 3pm), explore
Swansea Market (www. the area its unusual name
his legacy at the Dylan (from the French Les
Thomas Centre (%01792-
463980; www.dylanthomas. Mamelles – ‘the breasts’).
Oystermouth Castle
com; Somerset Pl; h10am-
# Lampeter (%01792-635478; www.swan-
\
4.30pm), catch a show
at the Dylan Thomas sea.gov.uk/oystermouthcastle;
# \ Llanybydder # \ Castle Ave; adult/child £3/1.50;
Theatre (%01792-473238;
www.dylanthomastheatre.org. h11am-5pm Easter-Sep) is
well worth a visit – a
uk; Gloucester Pl), where
he once trod the boards, Norman fortress standing
and visit some of the guard over the fashion-
able Newton Rd bar and
many pubs he famously
Llangadog # \ frequented. If you’ve got shopping strip.
Pick up an ice cream
# an interest in antiquities, at Joe’s (%01792-368212;
\
# Llandeilo seek out the fascinating www.joes-icecream.com; 526
\
Egypt Centre (www.egypt.
LINK
Ammanford
# \ YOUR
# \ TRIP
38 miles to F G
15
Pontarddulais The Historic South The Best of Britain
17
# \ 70 miles to F G h f
l
\ # Sample some The Welsh coast
#
] L
Llanelli ‚ heritage and culture before tour is an obvious side-trip
Swansea hitting the wild coast: from from our grand tour of the
# # Oxford, it’s two and a half best sights of Britain – it’s
^ # 1
# \
# \ Reynoldston hours west on the M4 to an hour’s drive between
4 # \ 0 ¸ Parkmill # Swansea. Swansea and Cardiff.
444
# #
] #
\ #
# Mumbles
3
2
A4118
#
\
#
\
Port
4 281
444
Eynon
l
L

Mumbles Rd; h10.30am- at the village of Murton, a sharp zoo and a puppet theatre.
5.30pm), a Swansea right-hand turn leads to the Nearby Parc-le-Breos
institution since it was B4436 and on to the A4118, the (Parkmill) contains the
founded by an Italian main Gower road. remains of a 5500-year-
immigrant in 1922, and old burial chamber.
take a stroll along the However, the real rea-
waterside promenade 3 Parkmill son to stop in Parkmill is
to the Victorian pier The spectacular coastal to take a stroll to Three
(%01792-365225; www. landscape of the Gower Cliffs Bay. Recognised
mumbles-pier.co.uk; Mumbles Peninsula was recognised as one of Britain’s most
Rd). There’s a pretty little by officialdom when it beautiful beaches, Three
sandy beach tucked just was declared the UK’s Cliffs has a memorable
beneath it. If you’re peck- first ‘Area of Outstanding setting, with a ruined
ish there are some good Natural Beauty’ in 1956. 13th-century castle above
cafes and restaurants In the village of Park- and a triple-pointed
spread along the water- mill, historic mill build- rock formation fram-
front, and plenty of pubs ings have been converted ing a natural arch at its
and bars too. into the Gower Heritage eastern end.
Centre (%01792-371206;
4 p289 www.gowerheritagecentre. The Drive » From Parkmill,
The Drive » From the co.uk; Parkmill; adult/child continue west on the A4118,
following the signs to Rhossili.
Mumbles it’s 6 miles to Parkmill £6.80/5.80; h10am-5.30pm; Eventually the road turns left
on the Gower Peninsula. Head c). Despite its worthy- towards the village of Scurlage
uphill on Newton Rd, following sounding name, it’s a and the Rhossili turn-off. All up
the Gower signs. Eventually the great place to take kids, it’s a distance of 10 miles along
houses give way to fields and, incorporating a petting good roads, but it’s quite likely


GREAT BRITAIN 21 WEST WALES: SWANSEA TO ST DAvIDS
DETOUR:
LAUGHARNE
Start: 6 Carmarthen (p285)
While shooting down the highway between Carmarthen and Tenby, it’s worth
considering taking a left at St Clears to visit the small town of Laugharne
(pronounced ‘larn’) on the Taf estuary. Perched picturesquely above the reed-lined
shore, Laugharne Castle (Cadw; www.cadw.gov.wales; Wogan St; adult/child £3.80/2.85;
h10am-5pm Apr-Oct) is a hefty 13th-century fortress which was converted into a
mansion in the 16th century.
Swansea may have been Dylan Thomas’ birthplace but Laugharne is where
he chose to live out his final years, providing the inspiration for his classic play
for voices Under Milk Wood. Many fans make the pilgrimage here to visit the
boathouse (%01994-427420; www.dylanthomasboathouse.com; Dylan’s Walk; adult/child
£4.20/2; h10am-5pm May-Oct, 10.30am-3pm Nov-Apr) where he lived, the shed where he
wrote and his final resting place in the graveyard of St Martin’s Church. Also worth a
look is cosy Brown’s Hotel (%01994-427688; www.browns-hotel.co.uk; King St; pizza £8-10;
h11am-11pm), one of his favourite watering holes.
Laugharne is situated 4 miles off the highway and you’re best to allocate at least
a couple of hours to explore it properly. Although you can continue southwest from
here on narrow roads, you’re better off backtracking to the A477 to get to Tenby.



282

JOE DANIEL PRICE / GETTY IMAGES ©












St Davids St Davids Cathedral
you’ll be stuck behind a slow- Head, a dragon-shaped lords were given author-
moving campervan or tractor at promontory which turns ity and a large degree of
some point along the way. into an island at high autonomy to subjugate
tide and is home to seals the Welsh in the south
TRIP HIGHLIGHT and a variety of sea birds. and along the English
4 Rhossili It’s safe to explore it on border. The cute little
foot for 2½ hours either
Carmarthenshire town of
It can be dangerous for side of low tide, but keep Kidwelly has a particular-
swimmers but the three an eye on the time and ly well-preserved example.
miles of surf-battered mind you don’t get cut off Originally erected in
golden sands of Rhossili by the incoming tide. 1106, only 40 years after
Bay make it the Gower the Norman invasion of
Peninsula’s most dramatic 5 p289 England, Kidwelly Castle
and spectacular beach. The Drive » It’s only 31 miles (Cadw; www.cadw.gov.wales;
Surfers tend to congregate from Rhossili to Kidwelly, but Castle Rd, Kidwelly; adult/child
at the village of Llangen- allow an hour as the narrow £4/3; h9.30am-5pm Mar-Oct,
nith near the north end lanes leading out from the 10am-4pm Nov-Feb) got its
of the beach, but Rhossili Gower Peninsula will slow you current configuration of
village to the south makes down. The first part of the imposing stone walls in
for a better casual stop. journey zigzags along tiny lanes the 13th century. Wander
There’s a National Trust to the peninsula’s northern around and explore its
edge. Before and after motoring
visitor centre (%01792- through the scraggly outskirts remaining towers and
390707; www.nationaltrust.org. of Llanelli, it’s a pleasantly rural battlements, or just stop
uk/gower; Coastguard Cottages, drive. by to take a photo of the
Rhossili; h10.30am-4pm) grey walls looming above
here, and the excellent the peaceful river far
Bay Bistro & Coffee House 5 Kidwelly below.
(p289), if you’re after a Castles are a dime a
meal or a snack. dozen in this part of The Drive » From Kidwelly,
This end of the beach Wales – a legacy of a time take the A484 north for 10
is abutted by Worms when Norman ‘Marcher’ miles through the green fields
of Carmarthenshire. Eventually

283

WHY THIS IS A BILLY STOCK / SHUTTERSTOCK ©
GREAT TRIP
PETER
DRAGICEVICH,
WRITER
JOE DANIEL PRICE / GETTY IMAGES ©
As well as traversing two of Wales’
most acclaimed beauty spots
– the Gower Peninsula and the
Pembrokeshire Coast – this journey
offers the perfect introduction to
contemporary Welsh life. You’ll get
a taste of a large post-industrial
city, visit tiny fishing villages, travel
through fertile farmland and wash
up in St Davids – a place as close to
the Welsh soul as any could claim
to be.
Top: Rhossili Bay, Gower Peninsula
Left: Colourful buildings in Solva
Right: Picturesque Tenby Harbour

you’ll see Carmarthen in the
distance, straddling a hill above
the River Tywi.

6 Carmarthen
Although it has ancient
BILLY STOCK / SHUTTERSTOCK ©
provenance, there’s
not an awful lot to see
in Carmarthenshire’s
county town. Still, it’s
worth stopping to stretch
your legs with a stroll
through its historic
centre. Call into Castle
House (Nott Sq; h9.30am-
4.30pm Mon-Sat) to exam-
ine the few sections that
remain of a once mighty
fortress. Carmarthen GREAT BRITAIN 21 WEST WALES: SWANSEA TO ST DAvIDS
Market (www.carmarthen
shiremarkets.co.uk; Market
Way; h9.30am-4.30pm
Mon-Sat) has existed since
Roman times. It’s a good
place to sample the local
specialty, Carmarthen
ham – an air-dried meat
that’s very similar to pro-
sciutto. Carmarthenshire
is a largely agricultural
county, and the market
remains an important
hub for local producers.
The Drive » Twenty-six miles
of verdant farmland separate
Carmarthen from Tenby. Take
the A40 to St Clears, where you
can either detour to Laugharne
or branch off on the A477 and
enter Pembrokeshire. Past
Kilgetty, turn left onto the A478,
which leads directly to Tenby.

TRIP HIGHLIGHT
7 Tenby
Sandy, family-friendly
beaches spread out in
either direction from
the pretty pastel-striped


285

resort town occupying Tue-Sat Jan-Mar) and the and a community of
the headland. Tenby’s National Trust’s restored Cistercian monks.
historic core is still Tudor Merchant’s House
partly enclosed by Nor- (NT; %01834-842279; www. 4 p289
man walls, although all nationaltrust.org.uk; Quay The Drive » From Tenby it’s
that’s left of its castle is Hill; adult/child £5/2.50; a short and sweet 10-mile hop
a meagre collection of h11am-5pm Wed-Mon Easter- to Pembroke. From the town
ruins gazing over the sea. Jul, Sep & Oct, daily Aug, Sat centre, head west on Greenhill
The beach is the big & Sun Nov-Easter). If you’ve Rd, head under the railway
attraction here, but if got the time, take a boat bridge and turn right at the
roundabout. Follow Hayward
the weather’s not co- trip out to Caldey Island Lane (the B4318) through a
operating, pop into Ten- (%01834-844453; www. patchwork of fields until you
by Museum & Art Gallery caldey-island.co.uk; adult/child reach the Sageston roundabout.
(%01834-842809; www. £12/6; hMon-Sat May-Sep, Turn left onto the A477 and then
tenbymuseum.org.uk; Castle Mon-Thu Apr & Oct), home to veer left on the A4075.
Hill; adult/child £4.95/free; seals, seabirds, beaches
h10am-5pm daily Apr-Dec,



DETOUR:
WEST OF PEMBROKE
Start: 8 Pembroke
The remote peninsula that forms the bottom lip of the long, deep-sea harbour of
Milford Haven has some of the Pembrokeshire Coast’s most dramatic geological
features and blissful little beaches. The National Trust–managed Stackpole Estate
(NT; %01646-661359; www.nationaltrust.org.uk; hdawn-dusk) covers 8 miles of coastline
GREAT BRITAIN 21 WEST WALES: SWANSEA TO ST DAvIDS
south and west of Pembroke. It includes the golden sands of Barafundle Bay and
Broad Haven South, and a network of walking tracks around the Bosherston Lily
Ponds.
Continue past Bosherston to the coast and a short steep path leads to the
photogenic shell of St Govan’s Chapel, wedged into a slot in the cliffs just above the
pounding waves. There’s a natural rock arch here, one of many along this stretch of
coast. Sadly, the coast to the west of here is part of a military firing range. When the
red flags are flying there’s no public access to some of the Pembrokeshire Coast’s
most arresting natural sights – the Elegug Stack Rocks and the gigantic arch
known as the Green Bridge of Wales.
After sidestepping the firing range, the road continues on to Freshwater West –
a moody, wave-battered stretch of coast that has provided a brooding backdrop
for movies such as Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows and Ridley Scott’s
Robin Hood. It’s widely held to be Wales’ best surf beach, but also one of the most
dangerous for swimmers.
From Pembroke it’s 4 miles to the Stackpole Estate and 8 miles to Freshwater
West. If it’s beach weather, you could easily make a day of it. Take the B4319 heading
south from Pembroke; Stackpole, Bosherston and the Ellegug Stack Rocks are
reached from narrow country lanes branching off it. The B4319 continues past
Freshwater West and terminates at the B4320, where you can turn right to head
back to Pembroke.



286

LEIGHTON COLLINS / SHUTTERSTOCK ©











Parkmill Pennard Castle
A strip of mainly Geor- village straight out of
8 Pembroke gian and Victorian build- central casting. Pastel-
The little town of ings leads down from the hued cottages line the
Pembroke is completely castle, including among gurgling stream running
dominated by hulk- them some good pubs through its lower reach-
ing Pembroke Castle and the excellent Food at es, while Georgian town
Williams (%01646-689990;
houses cling to the cliffs
(%01646-684585; www.
pembroke-castle.co.uk; www.foodatwilliams.co.uk; above. When the tide’s
Main St; adult/child £6/5; 18 Main St; mains £5-8.50; out, the water disappears
h10am-5pm; c), which h9am-4.30pm Mon-Sat, completely from the
looms over the end of its 10am-3pm Sun; W) cafe. harbour, leaving the sail-
ing fleet striking angular
main street. The fortress 4 p289
is best viewed from the poses on the sand.
Mill Pond, a pretty lake The Drive » The 24-mile There’s not much to
which forms a moat on journey to Solva heads through do here except to stroll
the port town of Pembroke Dock, about perusing the an-
three sides of the craggy crosses the Daugleddau estuary tique shops and galleries,
headland from which the and then heads up through
castle rises. Pembroke Pembrokeshire’s nondescript or to settle in some-
played a leading role in county town of Haverfordwest. where cosy for a meal.
British history as the Exit Haverfordwest on the A487, Our favourite for the
birthplace of the first which traverses farmland before latter is the Cambrian
Tudor king, Henry VII. reaching the coast at Newgale, Inn (%01437-721210; www.
Compared to many of a surf beach backed by a high thecambrianinn.co.uk; 6 Main
bank of pebbles. From here the
its contemporaries, the road shadows the coast. St; mains £11-21, s/d £70/95;
castle is in extremely hnoon-3pm & 6-9pm; v),
good nick, with lots of an upmarket pub known
for its gourmet burgers
well-preserved towers, 9 Solva
dungeons and wall-walks Clustered around a hook- and meat pies.
to explore. Needless to shaped harbour, Solva is If you need to burn
say, kids love it. off some calories after-
the classic Welsh fishing wards, a 1-mile walk
287

will take you upstream
to the Solva Woollen
Mill (%01437-721112; www. LOCAL KNOWLEDGE:
solvawoollenmill.co.uk; Middle ST DAVID’S DAY
Mill; h9.30am-5.30pm Mon- St David’s Day is to the Welsh what St Patrick’s Day
Fri Oct-Jun, 9.30am-5.30pm
Mon-Sat, 2-5.30pm Sun Jul- is to the Irish – a day to celebrate one’s essential
Welshiness, albeit somewhat more soberly than
Sep), which is the oldest
working mill of its kind their Celtic brethren from across the way. If you’re
in Wales on 1 March, there’s no better place to be
in Pembrokeshire.
than the saint’s own city, St Davids. All around the
4 p289 cathedral a host of golden daffodils explodes into
flower seemingly right on cue; people pin leek,
The Drive » You really can’t daffodil or red dragon badges to their lapels; the
go wrong on the 3-mile drive to
St Davids. Just continue west. streets are strung with flags bearing the black and
gold St David’s cross; and cawl (a traditional soupy
stew) is consumed in industrial qualities. Of course,
TRIP HIGHLIGHT the focus of more solemn events is the cathedral,
a St Davids where the saint’s remains lie in a recently restored
A city only by dint of its shrine, a replica of one which was destroyed during
prestigious cathedral, the Reformation.
pretty St Davids feels
more like a small town there’s a treasury and surf you’re after, head to
or an oversized village. historic library hidden broad, beautiful White-
Yet this little settlement within. Right next to the sands Bay (Porth Mawr).
looms large in the Welsh cathedral are the ruins Also not to be missed
consciousness as the of a spectacular medieval is Oriel y Parc (Landscape
hometown of its patron bishop’s palace (Cadw; Gallery; %01437-720392;
saint. www.cadw.gov.wales; adult/ www.orielyparc.co.uk; cnr High
GREAT BRITAIN 21 WEST WALES: SWANSEA TO ST DAvIDS
Fascinating St
Davids Cathedral (www. child £3.50/2.65; h9.30am- St & Caerfai Rd; h10am-
5pm Mar-Oct, 10am-4pm
4pm), an architecturally
stdavidscathedral.org.uk; Nov-Feb). interesting visitor centre
suggested donation £3, tours St David was born at and art gallery showcas-
£4; h8.30am-6pm Mon-Sat, St Non’s Bay, a ruggedly ing landscape paintings
12.45-5.30pm Sun) stands on beautiful section of coast from the collection of the
the site of the saint’s own with a holy well and a National Museum Wales.
6th-century religious set- cute little chapel, a short
tlement. Wonderful stone walk from the centre of 4 p289
and wooden carvings town. If it’s a swim or
decorate the interior, and














288

Eating & Sleeping


the town walls. Three of the four rooms have en
Swansea 1 suites, while the other has a private bathroom
accessed from the corridor.
4 Christmas Pie B&B B&B ££
(%01792-480266; www.christmaspie.co.uk;
2 Mirador Cres, Uplands; s/d £53/82; pW) Pembroke 8
The name suggests something warm and B&B ££
comforting, and this suburban villa does not 4 Woodbine
disappoint. The three en-suite bedrooms are all (%01646-686338; www.
individually decorated. Plus there’s fresh fruit pembrokebedandbreakfast.co.uk; 84 Main St; s/d
and an out-of-the-ordinary, vegetarian-friendly from £50/65; W) This well-kept, forest-green
breakfast selection. Georgian townhouse presents a smart face to
Pembroke’s main drag. The three pretty guest
rooms are tastefully furnished, with original
The Mumbles 2 fireplaces and contemporary wallpaper. Two
have en suites, while the family room has its
4 Patricks bathroom out on the corridor. GREAT BRITAIN 21 WEST WALES: SWANSEA TO ST DAvIDS
with Rooms Boutique Hotel £££
(%01792-360199; www.patrickswithrooms.
com; 638 Mumbles Rd; r £120-175; W) Patricks Solva 9
has 16 individually styled bedrooms in bold 4 Haroldston House B&B ££
contemporary colours, with art on the walls,
fluffy robes and, in some of the rooms, roll-top (%01437-721404; www.haroldstonhouse.co.uk;
baths and sea views. Some are set back in 29 High St; r £80-90; pW) Set in a lovely old
a separate annexe. Downstairs there’s an Georgian merchant’s house, this wonderful
upmarket restaurant and bar. B&B offers chic modern style. The simple but
tastefully decorated rooms feature art by
owner Ian McDonald as well as other Welsh or
Rhossili 4 Wales-based artists. There’s a free electric-car
charging point, discounts for guests arriving by
5 Bay Bistro & Coffee House Bistro £ public transport, and tasty, inventive breakfast
(%01792-390519; www.thebaybistro.co.uk; options.
mains £6-12; h10am-5.30pm; v) A buzzy
beach cafe with a sunny terrace, good surfy CaptionCaptionCaptionCaption
vibrations and the kind of drop-your-panini St Davids a
views that would make anything taste good – 4 Tŵr y Felin Hotel £££
although the roster of burgers, sandwiches,
cakes and coffee stands up well regardless. On (%01437-725555; www.twryfelinhotel.com;
summer evenings it opens for alfresco meals. Caerfai Rd; r/ste from £160/240) Incorporating
an odd circular tower that was once a windmill,
this chic boutique hotel is St Davids’ most
Tenby 7 upmarket option. The entire building is lathered
with contemporary art, with dozens of pieces
4 Southside Hotel ££ in the lounge-bar and restaurant alone. The
(%01834-844355; www.southsidetenby. 21 bedrooms are all luxurious, but the most
co.uk; Picton Rd; s/d £45/80; W) Rooms are spectacular is the three-level circular suite in
spacious, comfortable and not at all chintzy the tower itself.
at this friendly little private hotel just outside



289

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
NEED TO Climate

KNOW Warm to hot summers,
mild winters

CURRENCY
Pound sterling (£)
# Aberdeen
Fort William
LANGUAGE GO May or Sep # GO May–Sep
English; also Scottish Gaelic # Edinburgh
and Welsh GO Any time
VISAS
Generally not needed for
stays of up to six months.
Not a member of the Brecon # Norwich
GO May–Sep
Schengen Zone. GO May–Sep
#
# London
FUEL # Exeter GO Any time
Urban petrol (gas) stations GO Apr–Oct
are plentiful; service stations
are regularly spaced on
motorways. Fill up before
heading into rural areas,
where they’re scarcer. When to Go
Expect to pay around £1.10
per litre. High Season (Jun–Aug)
» Weather at its best.
RENTAL CARS » Accommodation rates peak.
Avis www.avis.co.uk
Budget www.budget.co.uk » Busy roads, especially in seaside areas, national parks and
big-draw cities.
Europcar www.europcar.
co.uk Shoulder (Mar–May & Sep–Oct)
Thrifty www.thrifty.co.uk » Crowds reduce.

IMPORTANT NUMBERS » Prices drop.
Emergency (%112 or » Weather often good.
%999) Police, fire,
ambulance, mountain Low Season (Nov–Feb)
rescue, coastguard » Wet and cold.
AA (%0800 88 77 66) » Snow falls in mountain areas.
Roadside assistance
RAC (%800 197 7815) » Outside London, opening hours often reduced.
Roadside assistance




290

budget to corporate offerings to
Your Daily Budget boutique. Mobile Phones
Budget: Less than £55 B&Bs Range from a room in The UK uses the GSM 900/1800
» Dorm beds: £15–30 someone’s house (with shared network, which covers Europe,
» Cheap cafe and pub meals: bathroom) to luxury spoils. Australia and New Zealand, but
£7–11 Inns Rooms above rural pubs; isn’t compatible with the North
can be a cosy choice. American GSM 1900, although
Midrange: £55–120 Hostels Bare-bones, often most modern mobiles can
» Double hotel or B&B room: dorm-style, accommodation. function on both networks.
£65–130 (London £100–200)
Reviews of places to stay use the
» Restaurant main meal: £10–20 following price ranges, all based Internet Access
Top End: More than £120 on double room with private » 3G and 4G mobile broadband
bathroom in high season.
» Four-star hotel room: from coverage is good in urban
£130 (London from £200) centres, but limited in rural areas.
LONDON OTHER
» Three-course meal in a good » Many accommodation
restaurant: around £40 £ less than less than providers have wi-fi access (free
£100 £65 or up to £6 per hour).
» Car rental per day: from £35
££ £100– £65– » Internet cafes (from £1 per
£200 £130 hour) are rare away from tourist
Eating £££ more more spots.
Restaurants From cheap-and- than than
cheerful to Michelin-starred, £200 £130 Money
covering all cuisines.
Pubs Serve reasonably priced ATMs (‘cash machines’) are
meals, some are top notch. Arriving in Great common in cities and towns.
Visa and MasterCard are widely
Cafes Good daytime option Britain accepted, although some B&Bs
for casual breakfasts, lunch or take cash or cheque only.
afternoon tea. Heathrow airport Trains,
London Underground (tube) and
Vegetarian Find meat-free buses to central London from
restaurants in towns and cities. 5am to around midnight (night Tipping
But rural menus may contain buses run later) are £5.70– Restaurants Around 10–15%
just one ‘choice’. 21.50. Taxis to central London in eateries with table service.
In reviews, the following price cost £45 to £85. Pubs & Bars If you order
ranges refer to a main dish. Gatwick airport Trains to
Prices are slightly higher in central London from 4.30am and pay at the bar, tips are not
expected. If you order a meal at
London. to 1.35am £10–20; 24hr buses the table and pay afterwards,
(hourly) to central London from then 10% is usual.
£ less than £10 £5. Taxis to central London:
££ £10–£20 £100. Taxis Roughly 10%.
£££ more than Eurostar trains from Paris
£20 or Brussels Arrive at London Useful Websites
St Pancras International station.
Lonely Planet (www.
Buses from Europe Arrive at lonelyplanet.com/great-britain)
London Victoria Coach Station.
Sleeping Desti nation information, hotel
bookings, traveller forums.
Hotels From small townhouses
to grand mansions; from Visit Britain (www.visitbritain.
com) Comprehensive tourist info.
291

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Grand Arcade
Browse some of the 60 prestigious shops
in Cambridge’s glitzy Grand Arcade.
It’s one of the few places you can park
STRETCH centrally, so it’s a good place to start.
The Walk » Head for the Lion Yard entrance; exit
YOUR LEGS onto Petty Cury, crossing the square to emerge
onto stately King’s Parade. Cut left to King’s
CAMBRIDGE College Chapel.
King’s College Chapel
In a city crammed with showstop-
ping buildings, King’s College Chapel
(%01223-331212; www.kings.cam.ac.uk/
chapel; King’s Pde; adult/child £9/6; h9.30am-
3.15pm Mon-Sat & 1.15-2.30pm Sun term time,
Start/Finish: Grand Arcade 9.30am-4.30pm daily, to 3.30pm Dec, Jan &
university holidays) is the scene-stealer. The
Distance: 3 miles grandiose structure is one of England’s
most extraordinary examples of Gothic
Duration: Three hours architecture. Its intricate 80m-long, fan-
vaulted ceiling is the world’s largest.
The Walk » Stroll north up King’s Parade.
University city Cambridge is a place Great St Mary’s Church
in which to walk. This tour takes in A major expansion of Great St Mary’s
a prestigious college, magnificent (www.gsm.cam.ac.uk; Senate House Hill;
h10am-4pm Mon-Sat, 1-4pm Sun) between
chapels, an ancient library, a cosy 1478 and 1519 resulted in the late–Gothic
teashop and gardens lining a river Perpendicular style you see today. Strik-
ing features include the mid-Victorian
filled with punts. stained-glass windows, seating galleries
and two organs. Climb the tower (adult/
child £3.90/2.50) for superb vistas.
The Walk » Dodge bicyclists and touting tour
guides to marvel at the ornate gates of Gonville
& Caius College. Soon Trinity’s elaborate Tudor
entrance way towers up on the left.
Trinity College
The largest of Cambridge’s colleges,
elegant Trinity College (www.trin.cam.ac.uk;
Trinity St; adult/child £3/1; h10am-4.30pm,
closed early Apr–mid-Jun) features a sweeping
Great Court: the biggest of its kind in the
world. It also boasts the renowned Wren
Take this walk on Trip Library (hnoon-2pm Mon-Fri, plus 10.30am-
12.30pm Sat term time only), containing
f 55,000 books dated before 1820. Works
include those by Shakespeare and Swift.

292

And an original Winnie the Pooh, writ-
ten by Trinity graduate AA Milne. 1 1 1 1 1
11 1 11 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1
The Walk » Head back through Trinity’s entrance 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1
and pass the front of gorgeous St John’s College. 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 Victoria Rd
1
1 1 1 1 1
Round Church 000
000
000
Cambridge’s intensely atmospheric 000
000
Round Church (www.christianheritage.org.
uk; Bridge St; £2.50; h10am-5pm Mon-Fri,
1.30-5pm Sat, 1.30-4pm Sun) is one of only Castle St
four such structures in England. It Chesterton Rd
Cam
was built by the mysterious Knights
Templar in 1130.
The Walk » Cut right down sweet, narrow Green
Jesus
Portugal Pl and onto wide Jesus Green. Pass Nort hamptonSt
tennis players to stroll the wooden boardwalk
beside the river and ranks of punts. After crossing Portugal Pl Park St
the bridge by Magdelene College, it’s not long
before you reach the Backs. Bridge St Round
The Backs The # Church
Jesus La
From here you’ll see the stately sweep of Queen's Rd # Backs Trinity
St John’s College amid the trees; Trinity College # St John'sSt
sits next door. Welcome to ‘the Backs’,
a series of riverside parks behind the Garrett Green St Sidney St
Hostel La
colleges’ grandiose facades and stately Trinity St Great
courts – picture-postcard snapshots of King's 000 00
St Mary's
000
000
000
00
graceful bridges and student life. Clare Bridge College # Church 00
00
000
Chapel 000
000
The Walk » Nip up Garret Hostel Lane for closer # # ï #
Grand
college views. Next come the gates of Clare College, Arcade
then glimpses of the impressive King’s College Benet St J
Chapel; the Palladian Fellows’ Building is to the %
right. After curving beside Queens’ College, cut left.
Mathematical King's Pde
Mathematical Bridge Bridge Pembroke St
00
#
00
From Silver St’s bridge, look left to spy Mill La # Fitzbillies 00
00
the Mathematical Bridge, a flimsy- Silver St
looking wooden construction built in
1749.
The Walk » Look out for the fleets of about-to- Trumpington St
embark punts on the right as you head up Silver St. Granta Pl
Fitzbillies Newnh am R d
Cambridge’s oldest bakery, Fitzbillies
(www.fitzbillies.com; 52 Trumpington St; mains
£6-12; h8am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-7pm Sat, Fen Causeway
10am-6pm Sun) has a soft spot in the
hearts of generations of students,
thanks to its ultrasticky Chelsea buns.
The Walk » Stroll up King’s Parade, passing now-
familiar King’s College. Turn right just before Great
St Mary’s, retracing your steps back to the car.
# e 0 0 0.1 miles
200 m

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
SouthGate
On cruising into Bath, follow signs to
SouthGate car park. It’s set beneath
a new shopping centre which aims to
STRETCH echo the city’s Georgian architecture.
The Walk » Exit into St Lawrence St and head
YOUR LEGS north, to join Stall St, before cutting right down
Abbeygate St towards the Roman Baths.
BATH Roman Baths
The Romans built a complex of bath-
houses (p150) above three natural hot
springs, which emerge at a toasty 46°C
(115°F). They form one of the best-
preserved ancient Roman spas in the
world. A tour reveals the Great Bath
Start/Finish: SouthGate (a lead-lined pool filled with steaming
water), bathing pools, changing rooms
Distance: 2½ miles and excavated sections revealing the
hypocaust heating system.
Duration: Three hours
The Walk » From Bath’s baths it’s a few steps
east to the city’s abbey.
Bath Abbey
Bath’s cityscape is simply Towering Bath Abbey (p196) was built
sumptuous – so stunning it has between 1499 and 1616, making it the
World Heritage site status. On this last great medieval church raised in
England. On the striking west facade
walk you’ll encounter architecture angels climb up and down stone lad-
ranging from Roman baths via a ders, commemorating a dream of the
founder, Bishop Oliver King. You can
medieval cathedral to exquisite also take tower tours.
Georgian designs. The Walk » Cross the square south of Bath
Abbey, then wind onto Parade Gardens passing
the Empire Hotel (1901) and the rushing weir to
Pultney Bridge (1773), a rarity in that it features
shops. Then duck up Green St.
Tasting Room
High-class vintages, tapas and piled-
high platters of meats and cheese are
the modi operandi of the Tasting Room
(%01225-483070; www.tastingroom.co.uk; 6
Green St; mains £6-13; h10.30am-11pm Wed-
Sat, to 4.30pm Mon & Tue), a slinky cafe-bar
set above a wine merchant.
Take this walk on Trips The Walk » Turn into elegant Milsom St,
browsing its chic shops as you make your way,
fh via George St, into narrow Bartlett St, a trendy
enclave.

294

44
Marlborough Buildings Victoria # Brock St Circus Russell St Bath The Paragon # e 0 0 0.2 miles 44
Royal
400 m
Crescent
4 44
The
Assembly
Royal
Rooms
Sydney
#
Park
Royal Ave
Park
# Georgian Alfred St Henrietta Gardens 4
Garden
Car Park # . River Avon Great Pulteney St
# . Broad St Walcot St 44
Queen Sq George St Milsom St Green St Laura Pl
Queen
Upper Bristol Rd
Sq # # ò Pulteney
Tasting Room Bridge 44
Barton St Recreation
Ground
Bath
Upper
Borough Walls Westgate St Stall St Abbey Parade 44
Gardens
#
# ï
Midland BridgeRd Roman Baths # # York St Cricket 44
44
North Pde
Grand Pump
Green
Park Room Abbeygate St Ground
Henry St
44
44
J # . St Lawrence St Pul teney Rd
SouthGate # 444
Green Park Rd
%
44
Lower BristolRd
River Avon
# £ Bath Spa Station 444
444
Bath Assembly Rooms Georgian Garden
When they opened in 1771, Bath’s As- The tiny, walled Georgian Garden (off
sembly Rooms (NT; www.nationaltrust.org.uk; Royal Ave; h9am-5pm) features period
19 Bennett St; h10.30am-5pm Mar-Oct, to 4pm plants and gravel walkways. They’ve
Nov-Feb) were where fashionable social- been carefully restored, providing an
ites gathered to waltz, play cards and intriguing insight into what would have
listen to the latest chamber music. Tour lain behind the Circus’ grand facades.
the card room, tearoom and ballroom.
The Walk » Pass through Queen Sq, the oldest
The Walk » Next it’s into The Circus (1768), of Bath’s Georgian squares to skirt the elaborate
a gorgeous ring of 33 houses divided into semi- Theatre Royal (1805). Upper Borough Walls marks
circular terraces. From there gracious Brock St medieval Bath’s northern edge; from here it’s a
gradually reveals Bath’s exquisite Royal Crescent. short stroll to the Pump Room.
Royal Crescent Grand Pump Room
The imposing, impeccably grand Royal The centre of the grand 19th-century
Crescent (p196) curls around private Pump Room (www.romanbaths.co.uk; Stall
lawns. Designed by John Wood the St; h10am-5pm) is filled with restaurant
Younger (1728–82) and built between tables, but the interior also shelters an
1767 and 1775, the houses appear per- ornate spa fountain from which Bath’s
fectly symmetrical from the outside, but famous hot springs flow. Ask staff for a
no two houses are quite the same inside. (free) glass; it will be startlingly warm –
an impressive 38°C (100°F).
The Walk » From the Crescent’s far end, stroll
back along Royal Ave. Opposite the bowling The Walk » Cut down Stall St, back into
green pavilion, cut left from the main road, up an St Lawrence St and back to your car.
easy-to-miss path to hunt out the gate in the wall
leading into the Georgian Garden.
295



Ireland











YOUR MAIN REASON FOR VISITING?
TO EXPERIENCE IRELAND OF THE
POSTCARD – captivating peninsulas,
dramatic wildness and undulating
hills. Scenery, history, culture, bustling
cosmopolitanism and the stillness of village
life – you’ll visit blockbuster attractions
and replicate famous photo ops. But there
are plenty of surprises too – and they’re all
within easy reach of each other. Whether you
want to drive through the wildest terrain or
sample great food while hopping between spa
treatments, we’ve got something for you.








Ring of Kerry Ruined cottage on the seashore
REMIZOV/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Ireland

Ballyliffin
# \ # \ Portstewart Ballycastle
Dunfanaghy # \ North
# \ Buncrana # \ Channel
Glenariff
Gortahork # \ # ] Limavady Coleraine Forest Park
# \
# \
Burtonport Letterkenny # ^ Derry/ # ÷
# \ ANTRIM
DONEGAL # \ Londonderry # \ NORTHERN
DERRY/
# \ F G

25 Strabane LONDONDERRY 25 # \ F G IRELAND
# ]
Antrim
Glencolumbcille # \ TYRONE # ÷ Gortin Glen # \ Bangor
# \
Donegal # ] # ] Forest Park Lough # _ BELFAST
Bundoran Lower Omagh Neagh Lurgan Strangford
# \
Lough
# ] Erne Craigavon#] Lough
Enniskillen Banbridge
Ballycastle Sligo # ] Armagh # ] # ] DOWNCastlewellan
# ÷ Forest Park
Bay
# \ # ]Sligo FERMANAGH # ] ARMAGH # \ Newcastle
Bangor Ballina SLIGO Monaghan # ]Newry
Erris # \ Ballycroy # \ Killykeen MONAGHAN # ÷ Kilbroney
Forest Park
# ÷ National F G Boyle LEITRIM Forest Park # ] Dundalk
# ÷
Park MAYO 23 # \ Carrick- CAVAN
: FG
# ÷
Castlebar # \ on-Shannon Dún an Rí 23
:
# \ LOUTH
:
Westport # \ LONGFORD : Forest Park
ROSCOMMON Kells # \ # ]Drogheda Irish
Connemara Lough I R E L A N D MEATH Sea
:
Claddaghduff National Roscommon # \ Ree Mullingar Tara # \
:
# \ Park : : : # \ DUBLIN
Clifden # \ # ÷ F G Lough GALWAY Athlone WESTMEATH Maynooth
22
Corrib
22
# \ Oughterard # \ Ballinasloe # \ F G # \ # _ # \Howth
Roundstone Athenry # \ Kilbeggan # \ KILDARE DUBLIN
Galway # ^ # \ OFFALY
North
Sound Burren Village Loughrea # \ Newbridge
# \ WICKLOW
A T L A N T I C F G Portumna # \ # \ Birr LAOIS # \ Wicklow
26
# \
O C E A N Doolin # \ # \ Kilfenora # \ Roscrea # \Abbeyleix
Miltown # \ Ennis CLARE Nenagh Durrow # \ Carlow
# \
Malbay # \ # \
Fergus # \ F G TIPPERARY Kilkenny CARLOW
Kilkee # \ Bay 23 # ^ Limerick # ] Ferns
Tarbert # \ # \ # \Dungarvan # \
# \ Enniscorthy
Ballybunion # \ Adare Tipperary # ] Cashel KILKENNY 4
Listowel # \ LIMERICK # \ # \ New Wexford
4
# \ Ross # ]
Tralee Cahir Waterford
# \ # ^ WEXFORD # \ Rosslare
Dingle Annascaul # \ Castlemaine CORK Mallow WATERFORD # \ Tramore Kilmore Harbour
# \
# \
# \
# \
Kells FG KERRY # \ Lismore # \ Dungarvan Quay St George's
# ] Killarney
24
# ^ FG
# \ # ÷ Killarney Channel
# \Ardmore
Portmagee National Park Cork 23 Youghal
# \
Waterville FG # \Kenmare # \ Cobh
# \
# \
# \
# ÷ Gougane Barra
22
# \ Forest Park
Caherdaniel Glengarriff # \
# \ Bantry
# \ Clonakilty
# \ Baltimore
# e 0 0 25 miles
50 km
298