Lonely Planet Europe’s Best Trips (Travel Guide)

ETHAN WELTY / GETTY IMAGES ©
Northern Spain
Pilgrimage 29








Travel in the footprints of thousands of pilgrims past and present
as you journey along the highroads and backroads of the legendary
Camino de Santiago pilgrimage trail.


TRIP HIGHLIGHTS
5–7 DAYS
154 km 678 KM / 423 MILES
Santo Domingo de la
Calzada GREAT FOR…
Get to know
small-town Spain at its
very best BJ
220 km BEST TIME TO GO
Burgos April to June for fields
l
Pray at the altar of the L
Unesco-listed Burgos of poppies, September
Cathedral Roncesvalles and October for
# golden leaves.
K
m # # # # Puente
# #
# #
19
#
# #
13
# #
8
# #
9
# # # la Reina ESSENTIAL
Astorga I PHOTO
Standing outside the
Cathedral de Santiago
de Compostela.
Santiago de
Compostela León BEST FOR
The magic of Santiago León has stunning K
de Compostela cannot historical architecture CULTURE
but overwhelm and irresistible energy Santiago de
678 km 402 km Compostela
Camino de Santiago Route marker 399

Northern Spain
29 Pilgrimage



For over a thousand years pilgrims have marched across the top of Spain
on the Camino de Santiago (Way of St James) to the tomb of St James
the Apostle in Santiago de Compostela. Real pilgrims walk, but by driving
you’ll enjoy religious treasures, grand cathedrals, big skies and wide open
landscapes – and no blisters.






# e 0 0 50 miles 100 km
ATLANTIC
OCEAN




O Barqueiro
\ #
San
Valdoviño Avilés Gijón
# \ Cosme # ] # ]
\ # # \ # \
Ferrol # ] Navia Villaviciosa # \
A Coruña # ^ Parque Natural / · Río Navia : # \ : : # ^ Oviedo # \
A8
Fragas do Eume
Grado
:
# \ Cangas del Parque
:
:
# \ Vilalba Parque Mieres # \
Betanzos Embalse Narcea Natural Natural
Baio de Salime # \ de Redes
\ # de Somiedo
#
H Río Tambre Lugo # \ San Antolín # \
de Ibias
: m K # ^ / · # \
p410
Cabo # \ # A6 Piedrafita Río Porma
# ^ #
19
Fisterra : Encoro de Sarria : # \
Santiago de Portodemouros \ \ # # Villafranca La Magdalena
#
18
del Bierzo
Compostela Samos # # : León
# ] #
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17
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/ · # ^ Castro de Prada de los : : : : : : / ·
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: :::
# ] Ourense Caldelas Embalse Polvazares : : : : :::: A66
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:
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# \ # \ # ^

Santa María (admission free; and staff). Also of inter-
1 Roncesvalles h9am-8.30pm) houses a est is the cloister, which
Long a key stopping much-revered, silver- contains the tomb of King
point on the Camino de covered statue of the Vir- Sancho VII (El Fuerte) of
Santiago, history hangs gin beneath a modernist- Navarra, the apparently
looking canopy. There’s
2.25m-tall victor in the
heavily in the air of the
monastery complex of also a statue of Santiago Battle of Las Navas de
Roncesvalles, where (St James) dressed as a Tolosa, fought against the
pilgrims give thanks for a pilgrim (with scallop shell Muslims in 1212. Nearby
successful crossing of the
Pyrenees. The main event LINK
here is the monastery YOUR
complex (www.roncesvalles. TRIP
es; adult/child €4.30/2.50;
h10am-2pm & 3.30-7pm Apr- Roving La Rioja Historic
Oct, shorter hours Nov-Mar), v Wine Region u Castilla y León
which contains a number SPAIN 29 NORTHERN SPAIN PILGRIMAGE
of different buildings of Take a detour to enjoy Branch off at Burgos for
interest. The 13th-century wine and gourmet a captivating tour around
Gothic Real Colegiata de treats on this peaceful Spain’s inland towns and
countryside circuit villages.
departing from Logroño.








Bay of Biscay Dax # \
FRANCE

Santander Santoña Bermeo Irún
Ribadesella # # \ # \ San # ]
^
^
# \ # \ Torrelavega Parque # \ Sebastián #
# \ Lanes / · # \ Cabárceno Castro Bilbao # \
Cangas A8 # ] Azpeitia
^
# \ Obregón Urdiales # Puerto
de Onís # \ # \ Tolosa de Ibañeta
Parque Nacional Parque Llodio # \ (1057m)
de los Natural Beasain Roncesvalles c
l L
# 1
# \
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Aguilar Río Ebro la Reina
de Campóo # \ # #
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# \ Miranda de Ebro # ]
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A67
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AP1
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: :
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# ^ #
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is the 12th-century Cap- bulls tear through the Calle Cuesta de Santo Domingo
illa de Sancti Spiritus. streets at dawn causing 47; adult/student/child €2/1/
If you need some exer- chaos as they go (and free, free Sat afternoon &
cise there’s lots of good alcohol-fueled revel- Sun; h9.30am-2pm & 5-7pm
walking around here. lers cause chaos for the Tue-Sat, 11am-2pm Sun),
remainder of the day – whose highlights include
The Drive » It’s basically huge Roman mosaics.
47km (one hour) downhill all and night), Pamplona
the way from Roncesvalles to is a quiet and low-key The Catedral (www.cat-
Pamplona. It’s a pretty drive city at any other time of edraldepamplona.com; Calle
through mountainscapes, the year. Animal rights Dormitalería; adult/child €5/3;
forests and gentle farmland. groups oppose bullrun- h10.30am-7pm Mon-Sat)
The N135 road passes through ning as a cruel tradition is late-medieval Gothic
innumerable hamlets and and increasing left- with a neoclassical fa-
villages painted in the red and wing influence in local cade. The cathedral tour
white Basque colours and is a highlight and takes
centred on old stone churches, government has called
many of which are crammed the future of Pamplona’s you up to the top of the
with religious treasures. bullrun into question. bell tower, into the pretty
Pamplona’s history cloisters and a museum
stretches back to Roman with religious treasures,
2 Pamplona times, and is best traced a Roman-era house and
Renowned across the in the city’s fantastic finishes all surreal with a
world for the Sanfer- Museo de Navarra (www. room full of Virgins!
mines festival, when cfnavarra.es/cultura/museo; 54 p412
SPAIN 29 NORTHERN SPAIN PILGRIMAGE

WHAT IS THE CAMINO DE SANTIAGO?
The Camino de Santiago (Way of St James) originated as a medieval pilgrimage and
ever since people have taken up the challenge of the Camino and walked to Santiago
de Compostela. It all began back in the 9th century when a remarkable event occurred
in the poor Iberian hinterlands: following a shining star, Pelayo, a religious hermit,
unearthed the tomb of the apostle James the Greater (or, in Spanish, Santiago). The
news was confirmed by the local bishop, the Asturian king and later the pope.
Compostela became the most important destination for Christians after Rome
and Jerusalem. Its popularity increased with an 11th-century papal decree granting
it Holy Year status: pilgrims could receive a plenary indulgence – a full remission of
your life’s sins – during a Holy Year. These occur when Santiago’s feast day (25 July)
falls on a Sunday: if you’ve been naughty then you’ll need to wait until 2021 for the
next one – but driving there doesn’t count...
The 11th and 12th centuries marked the heyday of the pilgrimage. The
Reformation was devastating for Catholic pilgrimages and by the 19th century the
Camino had nearly died out. In its startling late-20th-century reanimation, which
continues today, it’s most popular as a personal and spiritual journey of discovery,
rather than one primarily motivated by religion.
Today the most popular of the several caminos (paths) to Santiago de
Compostela is the Camino Francés, which spans 783km of Spain’s north and
attracts walkers of all backgrounds and ages from across the world. It’s the Council
of Europe’s first Cultural Itinerary and a Unesco World Heritage site but, for pilgrims,
it’s a pilgrimage equal to visiting Jerusalem, and by finishing it you’re guaranteed a
healthy chunk of time off purgatory.


402

The Drive » Leave Pamplona
on the A12 westbound and after
about 10 minutes turn off at exit TOP TIP:
9, onto the more driver-friendly FUENTE DE VINO
NA1110. Drive through Astraín
and continue along this peaceful Even the most adamant nonwalker might wish they’d
country road for 10 minutes to donned hiking boots when they get to the Monasterio
Legarda, then to Muruzábal and, de Irache near Estella and find the Fuente de Vino
finally, 2km southeast to Santa
María de Eunate. (Spring of Wine), just behind the Bodega de Irache.
Yes, it really is a spring of wine and yes, you really can
drink some for free – though only if you’re a pilgrim
3 Santa María walking, not driving! – to Santiago.
de Eunate
Surrounded by cornfields with the ghosts of a mul- visitors are continuing
and brushed by wildflow- titude of pilgrims. Their that same plodding tradi-
ers, the near perfect first stop here is at the tion. There’s an attractive
octaganal Romanesque late-Romanesque Iglesia old quarter and a couple SPAIN 29 NORTHERN SPAIN PILGRIMAGE
chapel of Santa María del Crucifijo, erected by of notable churches, in-
de Eunate (h10am-2pm the Knights Templar and cluding the 12th-century
& 4-7.30pm Tue-Sun) is one still containing one of the Iglesia de San Pedro de
of the most picturesque finest Gothic crucifixes in la Rúa. It’s cloisters are a
chapels along the whole existence. fine example of Roman-
Camino. Dating from esque sculptural work.
around the 12th century The Drive » The fastest Across the river and over-
way between Puente la Reina
its origins – and the rea- and Estella is on the A12 (20 looking the town is the
son why it’s located in minutes, 22km), but the more Iglesia de San Miguel,
the middle of nowhere – enjoyable drive is along the with a fine Romanesque
are something of a slower, more rural, NA1110, for north door. Close to
mystery. which you should allow about Estella are a couple of
half an hour. You’ll probably spy interesting monasteries:
The Drive » From the chapel a few Camino pilgrims trudging
it’s just a 5km drive along the along. the Monasterio de Irache
NA6064 to gorgeous Puente (h10am-1.15pm & 4-7pm
la Reina. Wed-Sun, closed 1-17 Jan) and
5 Estella Monasterio de Iranzu
(www.monasterio-iranzu.com;
4 Puente la Reina Estella (Basque: Lizarra) admission €2.50; h10am-2pm
The chief calling card of was known as ‘La Bella’ & 4-8pm).
in medieval times be-
Puente la Reina (Basque: cause of the splendour of The Drive » It’s a 40km (50
Gares), 22km southwest its monuments and build- minute) drive from Estella to
of Pamplona on the A12, ings, and though the Viana. When you leave Estella
is the spectacular six- old dear has lost some take the A12 westward and turn
arched medieval bridge of its beauty to modern onto the NA1110 at junction 58.
that dominates the suburbs, it’s not without Follow the NA1110 through the
western end of town, but charms. During the 11th sleepy towns of Los Arcos, Sansol
and Torres del Ro. In hillside
Puente la Reina rewards century Estella became a Torres you’ll find a remarkably
on many other levels. A main reception point for intact eight-sided Romanesque
key stop on the Camino the growing flood of pil- chapel, the Iglesia del Santo
de Santiago, the town’s grims along the Camino Sepulcro.
pretty streets throng
de Santiago. Today most

403

WHY THIS IS A JUERGEN RICHTER / LOOK-FOTO / GETTY IMAGES ©
GREAT TRIP
STUART BUTLER,
AUTHOR
This is a drive on an epic scale.
The Camino de Santiago has been
drawing people to northern Spain
JOSÉ ANTONIO MORENO / GETTY IMAGES ©
for a millennia, and although religion
plays no part in it for me I still
consider the Camino the ultimate
way of seeing northern Spain. Drive
it. Cycle it. Walk it. Just do it!


Top: Puente la Reina bridge
Left: Camino de Santiago
Right: Pilgrims near Burgos

6 Viana
Overlooked by many
nonpilgrim tourists,
Viana, the last town in
Navarra, started life as a
garrison town defending
DANIEL ACEVEDO / GETTY IMAGES ©
the kingdom of Navarra
from Castilla. Today,
the old part of the town,
which sits atop a hill, is
still largely walled and
is an interesting place
to wander about for a
couple of hours. The
Iglesia de Santa María
and Iglesia de San Pedro SPAIN 29 NORTHERN SPAIN PILGRIMAGE
are the chief attrac-
tions. Work started on
Santa María in the 13th
century and it is one
of the more impressive
religious structures on
this eastern end of the
Camino. The Iglesia de
San Pedro is today a ruin
that hosts concerts and
weddings. The former
bull ring is today a plaza
in the middle of town,
where children booting
footballs are considerably
more common than bulls.
The Drive » It’s 10km and
20 minutes from Viana to
Logroño. The first half of the
drive is through open, big-sky
countryside; the last part
through the city suburbs.
There’s a large carpark
underneath the main plaza by
the old town.


7 Logroño
Logroño, capital of
La Rioja and Spain’s
wine-growing region
par excellence, doesn’t
feel the need to be loud
and brash. Instead it’s a

405

stately town with a heart Domingo de la Calzada, the most eccentric feature is
of tree-studded squares, Camino walking trail virtually the white rooster and hen
narrow streets, hidden traces the route of the fast, and that forage in a glass-
corners and a monumen- dull, A12 motorway. There’s fronted cage opposite the
tally good selection of really not much reason for you entrance to the crypt.
pintxos (Basque tapas) to veer off the motorway (none Their presence celebrates
bars. All up, this is the of the quieter, smaller roads a long-standing legend,
sort of place that you really follow the Camino). the Miracle of the Roost-
cannot help but feel con- er, which tells of a young
tented in – and it’s not TRIP HIGHLIGHT man who was unfairly
just the wine. The superb 8 Santo Domingo executed only to recover
Museo de la Rioja (Plaza de la Calzada miraculously, while the
San Agustin 23; h10am-2pm & broiled cock and hen on
4-9pm Tue-Sat, 10am-2pm Sun) Santo Domingo is small- the plate of his judge sud-
in the centre of Logroño town Spain at its very denly leapt up.
takes you on a wild romp best. A large number of
through Riojan his- the inhabitants continue The Drive » From Santo
tory and culture – from to live in the partially Domingo to Burgos it’s just
the days when dinner walled old quarter, a 57km and 50 minutes. Again
was killed with arrows labyrinth of medieval you’re sort of stuck with using
the A12.
to re-creations of the streets where the past
kitchens that many a is alive and the sense of
Spanish granny grew up community is strong. TRIP HIGHLIGHT
using. The other major The Catedral de Santo 9 Burgos
SPAIN 29 NORTHERN SPAIN PILGRIMAGE
attraction is the Catedral Domingo de la Calzada On the surface, conserva-
de Santa María de la (www.catedralsantodomingo. tive Burgos seems to em-
Redonda (Calle de Portales; es; Plaza del Santo 4; adult/ body all the stereo types
h8am-1pm & 6-8.45pm Mon- student/child €4/3/free; of a north-central Span-
Sat, 9am-2pm & 6.30-8.45pm h10am-8.30pm Mon-Fri, ish town, with sombre
Sun), which started life as 9am-7.10pm Sat, 9am-12.20pm grey-stone architecture,
a Gothic church before & 1.45-7.10pm Sun Apr-Oct, the fortifying cuisine
maturing into a full- shorter hours Nov-Mar) and of the high meseta
blown cathedral in the its attached museum glit- (plateau) and a climate of
16th century. ter with the gold that at-
tests to the great wealth extremes. But Burgos is
54 p412, p435 the Camino has bestowed a city that rewards. The
The Drive » For the short on otherwise backwater historic centre is aus-
terely elegant, guarded
45km (35 minute) hop to Santo towns. The cathedral’s
by monumental gates and
with the cathedral as its
centrepiece. This Unesco
World Heritage–listed
TOP TIP: Catedral is a master-
PILGRIM HOSTELS piece that originally
started life as a modest
In towns and villages all along the Camino you will Romanesque church, but
see very cheap pilgrim hostels. These are only for over time became one
pilgrims travelling to Santiago by foot or bicycle (and of the most impressive
able to prove it). As a driver you will be reliant on cathedrals in a land of
normal hotel-style accommodation. impressive cathedrals.
For more on the Catedral


406

WHO WAS ST JAMES THE APOSTLE?

St James, or James the Greater, was one of the 12 disciples of Jesus. He may even
have been the first disciple. He was also the first to be martyred by King Herod in AD
44. So, if St James was living in the Holy Lands 2000 years ago, an obvious question
persists: what were the remains of St James doing in northwest Spain a thousand
years later? The accepted story (and we’re not standing by its authenticity)
suggests that two of St James’s own disciples secreted his remains onto a stone
boat which then set sail across the Mediterranean and passed into the Atlantic to
moor at present-day Padrón (Galicia). Continuing inland for 17km, the disciples
buried his body in a forest named Liibredon (present-day Santiago de Compostela).
All was then forgotten until a thousand years later, when a religious hermit found
the remains.

and the other stellar Benedictine centre by SPAIN 29 NORTHERN SPAIN PILGRIMAGE
attractions of Burgos, see b Frómista the 12th century. The
p422. The main (and some Mudéjar-influenced brick
54 p412, p425 would say only) reason Romanesque churches
merit a visit.
for stopping here is the
The Drive » It’s 58km (45 village’s exceptional The Drive » The 59km (50
minutes) from Burgos to little Romanesque church, the minute) stretch from Sahagún
castle-topped Castrojeriz. Take to León along the A231 and
the A12 out of town to junction Iglesia de San Martín N601 isn’t one of the more
32 and turn off northwest along (admission €1; h9.30am-2pm memorable driving moments of
the minor BU400. & 4.30-8pm). Dating from this route. Still, you have to feel
1066 and restored in the for those walking the Camino as
early 20th century, this they’re virtually walking along
a Castrojeriz harmoniously propor- beside you (some pilgrims
With it’s mix of old and tioned church is one of bus between Burgos and León
new buildings huddled the premier Romanesque because so much of the route is
next to the motorway).
around the base of a hill churches in rural Spain,
that’s topped with what’s adorned with a veritable
left of a crumbling castle, menagerie of human TRIP HIGHLIGHT
Castrojeriz is your typi- and zoomorphic figures d León
cal small meseta town. just below the eaves. The León is a wonderful city,
It’s worth a climb up to capitals within are also combining stunning his-
the castle if only for the richly decorated. torical architecture with
views. The town’s church, The Drive » From Frómista to an irresistible energy. Its
Iglesia de San Juan, is Sahagún is 59km (45 minutes) standout attraction is the
worth a look as well. via the P980 to Carrión de los
Condes, where the Camino 13th-century Catedral
The Drive » From Castrojeriz basically starts following the (%987 87 57 70; www.
it’s only 30km (35 minutes) major A231 road. catedraldeleon.org; adult/
along the BU403 and P432 concession/child under 12yr
to Frómista. The scenery is €5/4/free; h9.30am-1.30pm
classic meseta and if you’re c Sahagún & 4-8pm Mon-Sat, 9.30am-
lucky you’ll catch a glimpse of
such evocotive sights as a flock Despite appearances, Sa- 2.30pm & 5-8pm Sun), one
of sheep being led over the hagún was an immensely of the most beautiful
alternately burning or freezing powerful and wealthy cathedrals in Spain.
plateau by a shepherd. Whether spotlit by night

407

or bathed in glorious after colourful motif of
sunshine, the cathedral, biblical scenes drench the
arguably Spain’s premier vaults and arches of this BRAIS SEARA / GETTY IMAGES ©
Gothic masterpiece, extraordinary hall.
exudes a glorious, almost
luminous quality. The 54 p413
show-stopping facade has The Drive » Taking the N120
a radiant rose window, from León to Astorga will keep
three richly sculpted you on the route of the Camino.
doorways and two mus- It’s a 50km (one hour) drive.
cular towers. After going There’s also the much faster
AP71 motorway, but what’s the
through the main en- point in coming all this way to
trance, lorded over by the drive on a road like that?!
scene of the Last Supper,
an extraordinary gallery
of vidrieras (stained- e Astorga
glass windows) awaits. On a map of Spain,
Even older than León’s Astorga comes across
cathedral, the Real as rather insignificant,
Basílica de San Isidoro but this medium-sized
(h7.30am-11pm) provides town has history and
a stunning Romanesque attractions totally out of
counterpoint to the proportion to its provin-
former’s Gothic strains, cial status today.
SPAIN 29 NORTHERN SPAIN PILGRIMAGE
with extraordinary
frescoes in the attached The Drive » It’s just a 7km
Panteón, the main high- (15 minute) drive from Astorga
light. Fernando I and to Castrillo de los Polvazares
Doña Sancha founded the along the rural LE142. Note that
nonresidents are not allowed
church in 1063 to house to drive into Castrillo de los
the remains of the saint, Polvazares, so park up in one of
as well as the remains of the parking areas on the edge of
themselves and 21 other the village.
early Leónese and Castil-
ian monarchs. The main
basilica is a hotchpotch f Castrillo de los
of styles, but the two Polvazares
main portals on the One of the prettiest vil- spirit of the Camino can
southern facade are pure lages along the Camino – if be strongly felt.
Romanesque. Attached a little twee – is Castrillo The Drive » Continue along
to the Real Basílica de de los Polvazares. It con- the LE142 towards Ponferrada
San Isidoro, Panteón sists of little but one main (one hour 20 minutes; 53km).
Real (admission €5; cobbled street, a small The road runs pretty much
h10am-1.30pm & 4-6.30pm church and an array of beside the Camino and you’ll
Mon-Sat, 10am-1.30pm Sun) well-preserved 18th- pass through a string of
houses the remain- century stone houses. If attractive stone villages, most
of which have churches topped
ing sarcophagi, which you can be here before or with storks nests. It’s worth
rest with quiet dignity after all the tour buses stopping in Rabanal del Camino
beneath a canopy of some have left then it’s an with its 18th-century Ermita del
of the finest Romanesque absolute delight of a place Bendito Cristo de la Vera Cruz (a
frescoes in Spain. Motif and one in which the hermitage).

408

Ponferrada Castillo Templario’s imposing entrance
Templario (adult/concession Renaissance Basílica
g Ponferrada €4/2, Wed free; h10am-2pm de Nuestra Señora de
Ponferrada is not the & 4.30-8.30pm Tue-Sat, 10am- la Encina (%987 41 19 78;
2pm Sun) rise high over
h9am-2pm & 4.30-8.30pm),
region’s most enticing
town, but its castle and Río Sil, and the square, up the hill past the
remnants of the old town crenelated towers ooze tourist office, is the most
centre (around the stone romance and history. The impressive, especially
clock tower) make it castle has a lonely and its 17th-century painted
impregnable air, and is
wood altarpiece from
worth a brief stop. Built
by the Knights Templar a striking landmark in the school of Gregorio
in the 13th century, the Ponferrada’s otherwise Fernández.
walls of the fortress- bleak urban landscape. The Drive » Take the NVI
monastery Castillo Among Ponferrada’s from Ponferrada to Villafranca
churches, the Gothic- del Bierzo (23km, 25 minutes),
409

which runs almost right next to The Drive » The Camino, The Drive » Between Samos
both the A6 motorway and the and the driving road, leaves and Santiago de Compostela
Camino. Villafranca del Bierzo and starts (136km 2½ hours on the LU633
to wind uphill before entering and N547) there’s a whole load
Galicia at tiny O Cebreiro, which of attractive little villages (Sarria,
h Villafranca at 1300m is the highest point Portomarín and Melide) – there’s
del Bierzo on the whole Camino. From here not a lot to see at each, but it’s
worth an amble around any
continue to Samos. Total drive
Villafranca del Bierzo length is 90km (two hours) of them. Once in Santiago de
has a very well preserved using the NVI, or reduce the Compostela dump the car and
old core and a number of journey time a little by taking head to the cathedral.
interesting churches and the neighbouring A6.
other religious buildings. TRIP HIGHLIGHT
Chief among the sights
are the San Nicolás El i Samos j Santiago de
Real, a 17th-century Samos is built around Compostela
convent with a baroque the very fine Benedictine This, then, is it. The end
altarpiece, and the Mosteiro de Samos (www. of The Way. And what a
12th-century Iglesia de abadiadesamos.com; tours spectacular finish. Santi-
Santiago. The northern €3; htours every 30min ago de Compostela, with
doorway of this church 10am-12.30pm Mon-Sat, 12.45- its granite buildings and
is called the ‘door of for- 1.30pm Sun, 4.30-6.30pm frequent drizzle, is one of
giveness’. Pilgrims who daily). This monastery has the most attractive cities
were sick, or otherwise two beautiful big clois- in Spain. It goes without
SPAIN 29 NORTHERN SPAIN PILGRIMAGE
unable, to carry onto ters (one Gothic, with saying that your first
Santiago de Compostela distinctly unmonastic port of call should be the
were granted the same Greek nymphs adorning Catedral de Santiago
Godly favours as if they’d its fountain; the other de Compostela (www.
made it all the way. neoclassical and filled catedraldesantiago.es; Praza
with roses). do Obradoiro; h7am-8.30pm),
which soars above the
city centre in a splendid
jumble of moss-covered
DETOUR: spires and statues. Built
CABO FISTERRA piecemeal over several
centuries, its beauty is
Start: j Santiago de Compostela a mix of the original
In popular imagination Cabo Fisterra (86km, 1½ Romanesque structure
hours; take the AC441) is not just the western edge (built between 1075 and
of Spain (it’s not, that honour goes to Cabo da Nave, 1211) and later Gothic
5km north), but in the days way before sat-nav it and baroque flourishes.
was considered the very end of the world. This has The tomb of Santiago
long made it a popular extension to the Camino de beneath the main altar
Santiago. People today may not come here to ponder is a magnet for all who
what might lie beyond the western horizon, but come to the cathedral.
they do come with equal awe to watch the setting The artistic high point is
sun and admire the views from beside the powerful the Pórtico de la Gloria
lighthouse that sits at the edge of these high cliffs. inside the west entrance,
Fisterra itself is a fishing port with a picturesque featuring 200 masterly
harbour, and a tourist destination growing ever more Romanesque sculptures.
popular among Camino pilgrims. After you’ve given thanks


410

BRIAN LAWRENCE / GETTY IMAGES ©






















Santiago de Compostela The city’s magnificent Catedral SPAIN 29 NORTHERN SPAIN PILGRIMAGE


for a safe journey head to traffic- and cafe-free and a symbol of the crown’s
the Museo da Catedral, has a unique atmosphere. power in this ecclesiasti-
which spreads over At its northern end, the cal city. Today it’s a hotel,
four floors and includes Renaissance Hostal dos but its four courtyards
the cathedral’s large, Reis Católicos (p413) and some other areas are
16th-century Gothic/ was built in the early open to visitors.
plateresque cloister. The 16th century by order of
Grand Praza do Obra- the Catholic Monarchs, 54 p413
doiro, in front of the ca- Isabel and Fernando, as
thedral’s west facade, is a refuge for pilgrims and














411

Eating & Sleeping


4 Hotel
Pamplona 2 Calle Mayor Boutique Hotel €€€
(%941 23 23 68; www.hotelcallemayor.com;
5 Bar-Restaurante Gaucho Pintxos € Calle Marqués de San Nicolás 71; r incl breakfast
(Travesía Espóz y Mina 7; pintxos €2-3; €120-160; paW) This delicious hotel is the
h7am-3pm & 6.30-11pm) This bustling bar place to stay in Logroño. It has huge rooms
serves multi-award-winning pintxos that, with cheeky touches such as modern lamps
despite some serious competition, many a atop ancient columns, it’s bathed in light
local will tell you are the finest in the city – and simply oozes class. The staff are highly
and we agree! Try the ones made of sea efficient.
urchins or the crispy spinach and prawn
caramel creations.
4 Palacio Burgos 9
Guendulain Historic Hotel €€€ 5 El Huerto
(%948 22 55 22; www.palacioguendulain. de Roque Contemporary Castilian €€
SPAIN 29 NORTHERN SPAIN PILGRIMAGE
com; Calle Zapatería 53; s/d incl breakfast (www.elhuertoderoque.com; Calle de Santa
from €132/143; paW) To call this Águeda 10; mains €10-12, menú del día €15;
stunning hotel, inside the converted former hrestaurant 1-4pm Tue-Sat, gastrobar
home of the viceroy of New Granada, 8pm-2am Thu-Sat; v) Come here for an
sumptuous is an understatement. On arrival, inexpensive lunch with plenty of choice of
you’re greeted by a museum-piece 17th- dishes. The emphasis is on fresh market and
century carriage and a collection of classic ecological produce with typical plates including
cars being guarded beside the viceroy’s vegetable spring rolls with a sweet and sour
private chapel. The rooms contain Princess sauce, and crab in a Thai green curry sauce.
and the Pea–soft beds, enormous showers The atmosphere throughout is boho-rustic
and regal armchairs.
with original tiles, wooden furniture and edgy
artwork.
Logroño 7
4 Hotel Norte
5 La Cocina de Ramon Spanish €€€ y Londres Historic Hotel €€
(%941 28 98 08; www.lacocinaderamon.es; (%947 26 41 25; www.hotelnorteylondres.com;
Calle de Portales 30; menús €28-37; h1-4pm & Plaza de Alonso Martínez 10; s/d €66/100;
8-11pm Tue-Sat, 1-4pm Sun) It looks unassuming piW) Set in a former 16th-century palace
from the outside, but Ramon’s mixture of high- and with understated period charm, this fine
quality, locally grown market-fresh produce hotel promises spacious rooms with antique
and tried-and-tested family recipes gives this furnishings, polished wooden floors and pretty
place a lot of fans. But it’s not just the food that balconies; those on the 4th floor are more
makes it so popular: the service is outstanding, modern. The bathrooms are exceptionally
and Ramon likes to come and explain the dishes large, the service exceptionally efficient.
to each and every guest.






412

León d Santiago de Compostela j
5 Delirios Contemporary Castilian €€ 5 O Curro
(%987 23 76 99; www.restaurantedelirios. da Parra Contemporary Galician €€
com; Calle Ave Maria 2; mains €12-20; h1.30- (www.ocurrodaparra.com; Rúa do Curro da Parra
3.30pm & 9-11.30pm Tue-Sat, 1.30-3.30pm 7; mains €17-23, tapas €4-8; h1.30-3.30pm &
Sun) One of the city’s more adventurous 8.30-11.30pm Tue-Sat, 1.30-3.30pm Sun) With
dining options where innovative combinations a neat little stone-walled dining room upstairs
such as tuna tataki with orange and ginger, and a narrow tapas and wine bar below, O Curro
and brie and foie gras with coconut hit the da Parra serves up a broad range of thoughtfully
mark virtually every time. Those with more created, market-fresh fare. You might go for
conservative taste buds can opt for dishes pork cheeks with apple purée and spinach – or
such as steak with parsnip chips, while just ask what the fish and seafood of the day
the chocolate mousse with passionfruit is are. On weekday lunchtimes there’s a good-
designed to put a satisfied waddle in every value €12 menú mercado (market menu).
diner’s step. Reservations recommended. 4 Hotel Costa Vella Boutique Hotel €€
4 La Posada Regia Historic Hotel €€ (%981 56 95 30; www.costavella.com; Rúa SPAIN 29 NORTHERN SPAIN PILGRIMAGE
(%987 21 31 73; www.regialeon.com; Calle de da Porta da Pena 17; s €59, d €81-97; aW)
Regidores 9-11; s/d incl breakfast from €54/59; Tranquil, thoughtfully designed rooms – some
aW) This place has the feel of a casa rural with typically Galician galerías (glassed-in
(village accommodation) despite being in balconies) – a friendly welcome and a lovely
the city centre. The secret is a 14th-century garden cafe make this old stone house a
building, magnificently restored (wooden wonderful option, and the €6 breakfast is
beams, exposed brick and understated antique substantial. Even if you don’t stay, it’s an ideal
furniture), with individually styled rooms and spot for breakfast or coffee. Book ahead from
supremely comfortable beds and bathrooms. May to September.
As with anywhere in the Barri Gótic, weekend
nights can be noisy. 4 Parador Hostal
dos Reis Católicos Historic Hotel €€€
4 Hostal de (%981 58 22 00; www.parador.es; Praza
San Marcos Historic Hotel €€€ do Obradoiro 1; r incl breakfast from €205;
(%987 23 73 00; www.parador.es; Plaza de San paiW) Opened in 1509 as a pilgrims’
Marcos 7; d incl breakfast from €134; aiW) hostel, and with a claim to be the world’s oldest
Despite the confusing ‘hostal’ in the name, hotel, this palatial parador just steps from the
León’s sumptuous parador (state-owned cathedral is Santiago’s top hotel, with regal (if
hotel) is one of the finest hotels in Spain. With rather staid) rooms. If you’re not staying, stop
palatial rooms fit for royalty and filled with in for a look round (hnoon-2pm & 4-6pm
old-world luxury and decor, this is one of the Sun-Fri; admission €3) and coffee and cakes at
Parador chain’s flagship properties and as you’d the elegant cafe.
expect, the service and attention to detail are
faultless. It also houses the Convento de
San Marcos.












413

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Historic
Castilla y León 30








This journey through Spain’s Castilian heartlands takes in some
of the country’s most beguiling historic cities and larger towns
with numerous time-worn pueblos (villages) en route.
TRIP HIGHLIGHTS

7 DAYS
782 KM / 486 MILES
671 km 631 km
Covarrubias Burgos
One of Spain's most Arguably Spain's GREAT FOR…
beautiful villages foremost Gothic
cathedral B

# # #
# BEST TIME TO GO
9
Spring (March to
# # #
# May) and Autumn
10
Valladolid de Duero m K (September and
# Soria
Aranda
# # October) to avoid
extreme heat and cold.
I ESSENTIAL
# # PHOTO
# # #
4
# # #
2
l L Salamanca, floodlit at
Plaza Mayor,
# _ MADRID night.
Salamanca Segovia K BEST FOR
Golden sandstone Disney castle, Roman CULTURE
architecture without aqueduct and lively
peer streets Irresistible Salamanca
street life against a
254 km 92 km glorious architectural
backdrop.
Salamanca Plaza Mayor 415

Historic Castilla y
30 León



From Segovia to Soria, the towns of Castilla y León rank among Spain’s most
appealing historic centres. Architecture may be central to their attraction,
but these are no museum pieces. Instead, the relentless energy of life lived
Spanish-style courses through the streets, all set against a backdrop of
grand cathedrals and animating stately squares. Out in the countryside
postcard-perfect villages complement the clamour of city life.
R
:
: : : : :
: : : : : : : : : : : :
: : : : :
G
:
: Astorga \ # : F Sahagún : : : :
29
· : : : : : : \ # : : : : : : \ # : : : : : : : \ # Osorno Burgos
/
:
A6
^ #
# #
9
:
: : :
Carrión de
: : : :: : : los Condes : : : :
: :
:
:
: :: ::
:
: : Puebla de : : Villaquejida Becilla de : : : : : : : : : : : Covarrubias
¸
Sanabria : # \ : :: Valderaduey : :: : : : # \ Am : : 0
:usco
N234
/
· : : :: : Villarramiel : : : : : : : : : #
\ # \ #
: :
A52
10
H
# : \ # : # \ : :: ] : : : Lerma \ # #
#
Parque Natural p419 Benavente : : Palencia : : Santo \ #
: :
:
: :
de Montesinho : : : Domingo
#
#Bragança # \ Medina de \ # de Silos H
^
Tábara Rioseco : : : : : p423
SPAIN : : Gumiel de Izan \ #
:
:
Montamarta # \ Villanubla \ # : : : Valladolid : : Aranda
0
:
\
:
#
^
Miranda do Toro Simancas : # : : :: : ¸ : de Duero
N122
#
8
Douro : : : : # \ : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : # : : :
# #
: # #
\ 6
# \ # \ Zamora 5 ] # : : : : : :# :0¸ : : : : : : : : Peñafiel
PORTUGAL # \
N122
# 7
: #
/
: : :
A1
Mogadouro Rio Douro : : :: : : : : : : Río : : : : : Tordesillas : : : ·
·
\ # Corrales \ # : : D uero : / # Cuellar Parque Ayllón # \
\
: A6
:
Parque del Vino : Alaejos : # \ : \ # Olmedo Natural
Natural do Medina # \ del Hoz
Douro Cañizal del Campo # Coca
International # \ Ataquines \ # \ Puerto de
·
A62
\ # Ledesma \ # Río Tormes / Somosierra c
Vilagudino
# \ Encinas Arévalo \ #
Salamanca de Abajo
] #
4
\ # # # Buitrago \ #
\ #
Lumbrales \ # Segovia 2 # #
Puerto de : :
# \ San Pedro # \ : : :
¸
¸
Martin de 0 Villacastín \ # c Navacerrada El Molar
Yeltes N630 del Arroyo 0 Collado : : : # \ :
N-110
Ávila 3 # # Guadarrama # \ Villalb :a : : : :
\ #
\ # # \
:
# Ciudad Peña de # \ \ # : : : # : : Alcalá de
^
I
:
: :
Rodrigo RFrancia El Escorial : : : Henares
(1732m) # Piedrahita : : : p440 : : :
]
l
Bejar # Béjar R \ Río Alberche : # : : ] : : #
#
_
# # 1
Pico de Almanzor
Madrid
\
(2592m) L : : Torrejón
:
:
# e 0 0 25 miles c Puerto : : de Ardoz
50 km
: :
de Tornavacas
c : : # :: :
# \
\
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c

ies – the Prado, Thyssen dance, among them the
1 Madrid and Reina Sofía – all Roman Acueducto, the
Madrid is the most Span- clustered close to one of fairytale Alcázar (%921
ish of all Spanish cities. the city’s main boule- 46 07 59; www.alcazardese-
Its food culture, drawn vards and a short walk govia.com; Plaza de la Reina
from the Parque del Buen
from the best the country Victoria Eugenia; adult/conces-
has to offer, makes it one Retiro, one of the loveli- sion/child under 6yr €5/3/free,
of Europe’s more under- est and most expansive tower €2, EU citizens free 3rd
rated culinary capitals, monumental parks in Tue of month; h10am-6pm
while its nightlife and Europe. In short, this Oct-Mar, 10am-7pm Apr-Sep;
c), which is said to have
is a city that rewards
its irresistible joie de
vivre exist like some those who linger and love inspired Walt Disney,
Spanish stereotype all things Spanish. To and Romanesque gems
given form. But there explore Madrid on foot, such as the Catedral
is more to Madrid than see p440. (%921 46 22 05; Plaza Mayor;
just nonstop colour and The Drive » Getting out of adult/concession €3/2, Sun SPAIN 30 HISTORIC CASTILLA Y LEÓN
movement. This is one Madrid can be a challenge, morning free, tower €5;
of the premier art cities with a complicated system h9.30am-5.30pm Oct-Mar,
on the continent, with of numbered motorways 9.30am-6.30pm Apr-Sep) or
three world-class galler- radiating out from the city. Drive the Iglesia de San Martín
north along the Paseo de la (hbefore & after Mass). This
Castellana, turn west along the is also one of the most
M50 ring road, then take the A6, dynamic towns in the
direction A Coruña. Of the two country, a winning mix
Logroño main roads to Segovia from the of local students and in-
:
:
#
F G # \ : : : : ^ : : : : A6, the N603 is the prettier. ternational visitors filling
Río Ebro
29
F G Nájera : : : the city’s bars and public
31
: :
\ TRIP HIGHLIGHT spaces with an agree-
: #
2 Segovia able crescendo of noise.
Unesco World Heritage– To cap it all, the setting
# \ is simply superb – a city
Hontoria listed Segovia is a stun-
del ning confluence of every- strung out along a ridge,
Pinar Navaleno m K its warm terracotta and
# \ 0 ¸ thing that’s good about
\ # N234 the beautiful towns of sandstone hues arrayed
] #
# against a backdrop of
# Soria
11
Calatañazor Castilla. There are his-
# \ Castilla’s rolling hills and
toric landmarks in abun-
the often-snowcapped
Río Duero
\ # # Almazán
\
Gormaz
\ #
LINK
YOUR
# \ Imón Medinaceli TRIP
Atienza \ # \ #
v Roving La Rioja t Northern Spain
Wine Region
Pilgrimage
:
: RíoHenares Discover the wealth of the Crisscross the Camino de
# grape on this peaceful
Santiago pilgrim route, two
Y
: # Cifuentes
\
: : # Torija countryside drive, just an and a half hours north from
\
: : hour and a half north from Soria.
]
: : # : Guadalajara Soria.
:
#
] : Priego
# \
# \
Pastrana 417

Sierra de Guadarrama. €5/free; h10am-8pm Tue- the sandstone Basílica
There are many vantage Sun; c) can be climbed – de San Vicente (Plaza de
points to take in the full a 300m stretch that can San Vicente; admission €2;
effect, but our favourite be accessed from just h10am-6.30pm Mon-Sat,
can be found anywhere inside the Puerta del 4-6pm Sun).
in the gardens near the Alcázar, and a longer
entrance to the Alcázar. 1300m stretch that runs 4 p424
the length of the old The Drive » The N501 runs
54 p424 city’s northern perimeter. northwest of Ávila to Salamanca,
The Drive » It’s 66km The best views are those in the process traversing the
from Segovia to Ávila along at night from Los Cuatro pancake-flat high meseta
the N110. The road runs Postes, a short distance (plateau) of central Spain and
southwest, parallel to the Sierra northwest of the city. covering 96km en route.
de Guadarrama, with some Ávila is also the home
excellent views en route. At TRIP HIGHLIGHT
around the halfway mark, you’ll city of Santa Teresa, with
cross the A6 motorway. the Convento de Santa 4 Salamanca
Teresa (%920 21 10 30; Salamanca is a special
Plaza de la Santa; h8.45am- place: its perfect mix
3 Ávila 1.30pm & 3.30-9pm Tue-Sun) of eye-catching archi-
Ávila’s old city, sur- as its centrepiece. Other tecture and animated
important religious
rounded by imposing streets make it one of our
12th-century murallas high points include the favourite cities in Spain.
SPAIN 30 HISTORIC CASTILLA Y LEÓN
(walls) comprising eight Catedral del Salvador The city is at its best as
monumental gates, 88 (Plaza de la Catedral; admission day turns the corner into
watchtowers and more €4; h10am-7.30pm Mon-Fri, night.
than 2500 turrets, is one 10am-8pm Sat, noon-6.30pm
of the best-preserved Sun), the Monasterio de 54 p424
medieval-walled cities Santo Tomás (www.mon- The Drive » The N630 runs
in Spain. Two sections of asteriosantotomas.com; Plaza due north from Salamanca to
the Murallas (muralladeav- de Granada 1; admission €4; Zamora (67km), a relatively
h10am-1pm & 4-8pm) and
ila.com; adult/child under 12yr quiet road by Spanish standards



LOCAL KNOWLEDGE:
FROG-SPOTTING IN SALAMANCA
Arguably a lot more interesting than trainspotting (and you don’t have to wear an
anorak and drink tea from a thermos flask), a compulsory task facing all visitors to
Salamanca is to search out the frog sculpted into the facade of the Universidad
Civil (Calle de los Libreros; adult/concession €4/2, Mon morning free; h9.30am-1.30pm &
4-6.30pm Mon-Sat, 10am-1.30pm Sun). Once pointed out, it’s easily enough seen, but the
uninitiated can spend considerable time searching. Why bother? Well, they say that
those who detect it without help can be assured of good luck and even marriage
within a year. Some hopeful students see a guaranteed examination’s victory in it. If
you believe all this, stop reading now. If you need help, look at the busts of Fernando
and Isabel. From there, turn your gaze to the largest column on the extreme right of
the front. Slightly above the level of the busts is a series of skulls, atop the leftmost
of which sits our little amphibious friend (or what’s left of his eroded self).



418

DETOUR:
PUEBLA DE SANABRIA
Start: 5 Zamora
Northwest of Zamora, close to the Portuguese border, this captivating village is a
tangle of medieval alleyways that unfold around a 15th-century castle and trickle
down the hill. This is one of Spain’s loveliest hamlets and it’s well worth the detour,
or even stopping overnight: the quiet cobblestone lanes make it feel like you’ve
stepped back centuries. Wandering the village is alone worth the trip here but a
few attractions are worth tracking down. Crowning the village’s high point and
dominating its skyline for kilometres around, the Castillo (adult/child under 12yr €3/
free; h11am-2pm & 4-8pm Mon-Sat, 4-7pm Sun; pc) has some interesting displays on
local history, flora and fauna and superb views from the ramparts. Also at the top of
the village, the striking Plaza Mayor is surrounded by some fine historical buildings.
The 17th-century ayuntamiento (town hall) has a lovely arched facade and faces SPAIN 30 HISTORIC CASTILLA Y LEÓN
across the square to Iglesia de Nuestra Señora del Azogue (admission free;
h11am-2pm & 4-8pm Sat & Sun), a pretty village church which was first built in the 12th
century. If you’re staying the night, the Posada Real La Cartería (%980 62 03 12;
www.lacarteria.com; Calle de Rúa 16; r from €81; aiW) captures the essence of Puebla
de Sanabria’s medieval appeal with both rooms and a restaurant.


and one that follows the explore this subdued en-
contours of the rolling hill core to the monumental 6 Toro
country of Castilla y León’s west. splendour of Salamanca.
Zamora is also one of With a name that
couldn’t be more Spanish
the best places to be
5 Zamora during Semana Santa, and a stirring history
If you’re arriving by with haunting proces- that overshadows its
road, first appearances sions of hooded penitents present, Toro is your
can be deceiving and, parading through the archetypal Castilian
town. It was here that
as in so many Spanish streets. Whatever time
towns, your introduction of year you’re here, Fernando and Isabel
to provincial Zamora is don’t miss the Museo de cemented their primacy
likely to be nondescript Semana Santa (%980 53 in Christian Spain at the
apartment blocks. But 22 95; semanasantadezamora. Battle of Toro in 1476.
The town sits on a rise
persevere as the casco com; Plaza de Santa María La
historico (old town) is Nueva; adult/child €4/1.50; high above the north
hauntingly beauti- h10am-2pm & 5-8pm Tue-Sat, bank of Río Duero and
ful, with sumptuous 10am-2pm Sun). has a charming historic
medieval monuments centre with half-timbered
houses and Romanesque
that have earned Zamora 54 p424
the popular sobriquet The Drive » The A11 tracks churches. The high
‘Romanesque Museum’. east of Zamora – not far out point, literally, is the
Much of the old town along the sweeping plains that 12th-century Colegiata
is closed to motorised bake in summer, take the turn- Santa María La Mayor
transport and walking off to Toro. (Plaza de la Colegiata; admis-
is easily the best way to sion €2; h10.30am-2pm &
5.30-7.30pm Tue-Sun), which

419

WHY THIS IS A FRANZ MARC FREI / LOOK-FOTO / GETTY IMAGES ©
GREAT TRIP
ANTHONY HAM,
AUTHOR
The towns north and west of Madrid
MARÍA GALÁN / GETTY IMAGES ©
are windows on the Spanish soul,
each with their own distinctive
appeal. Segovia, Ávila, Salamanca,
Zamora and Burgos are all
Spanish classics, dynamic cities
with extraordinary architectural
backdrops. Throw in some
captivating, beautiful villages along
the way and you’ve captured the
essence of this remarkable country
in just a week.

Top: Tordesillas reflected in the Río Duero
Left: Diners in Covarrubias
Right: Ávila’s fortified murallas (walls)

rises above the town and
boasts the magnificent
Romanesque-Gothic Pór-
tico de la Majestad.
The Drive » Return to the
main east–west road that
passes to the north of Toro (the
MATTEO COLOMBO / GETTY IMAGES ©
A11, then E82), and continue
east to Tordesillas.
7 Tordesillas
Commanding a rise on
the northern flank of Río
Duero, this pretty little
town has a historical sig-
nificance that belies its SPAIN 30 HISTORIC CASTILLA Y LEÓN
size. Originally a Roman
settlement, it later played
a major role in world
history when, in 1494,
Isabel and Fernando, the
Catholic Monarchs, sat
down with Portugal here
to hammer out a treaty
determining who got
what in Latin America.
Portugal got Brazil and
much of the rest went to
Spain. Explaining it all
is the excellent Museo
del Tratado del Tordesil-
las (%983 77 10 67; Calle de
Casas del Tratado; h10am-
1.30pm & 5-7.30pm Tue-Sat,
10am-2pm Sun). Not far
away, the heart of town is
formed by the delightful
porticoed and cobbled
Plaza Mayor, its mustard-
yellow paintwork offset
by dark-brown woodwork
and black grilles.
The Drive » From Tordesillas,
E80 sweeps northeast, skirts
the southern fringe of Valladolid
and then continues east as the
N122, through the vineyards of
the Ribera del Duero wine region
all the way into Peñafiel.


421

for lunch – try the roast lamb at The Drive » Take the E5
8 Peñafiel Asador Casa Brigant on Plaza south of Burgos but almost
Mayor. Sated, return to the
immediately after leaving the
Peñafiel is the gateway E5 and take it all the way into city’s southern outskirts, take
to the Ribera del Duero Burgos. the N234 turnoff and follow the
wine region and it’s an signs over gently undulating hills
appealing small town in TRIP HIGHLIGHT and through green valleys to the
its own right. At ground walled village of Covarrubias.
level, Plaza del Coso 9 Burgos
is one of Spain’s most Dominated by its Unesco TRIP HIGHLIGHT
stunningly picturesque World Heritage–listed a Covarrubias
plazas. This rectangular cathedral but with plenty
15th-century ‘square’ more to turn the head, Inhabiting a broad valley
was one of the first to be Burgos is one of Castilla in eastern Castilla y León
laid out for this purpose y León’s most captivating and spread out along
and is considered one towns. The extraordinary the shady banks of Río
of the most important Gothic Catedral (%947 20 Arlanza with a gorgeous
forerunners to the plazas 47 12; www.catedraldeburgos. riverside aspect, Covarru-
mayores (main squares) es; Plaza del Rey Fernando; bias is only a short step
across Spain. It’s still adult/child under 14yr incl mul- removed from the Middle
used for bullfights on tilingual audioguide €6/1.50; Ages. Once you pass
ceremonial occasions, h10am-6pm) is one of beneath the formidable
and it’s watched over by Spain’s glittering jewels stone archways that mark
SPAIN 30 HISTORIC CASTILLA Y LEÓN
distinctive half-wooden of religious architecture the village’s entrances,
facades. But no mat- and looms large over the Covarrubias takes visi-
ter where you are in city and skyline. Inside tors within its intimate
Peñafiel, your eyes will be is the last place of El Cid embrace with tightly
drawn to the Castillo de and there are numerous huddled and distinctive,
Peñafiel (Museo Provincial extravagant chapels, a arcaded half-timbered
del Vino; Peñafiel; castle €3, gilded staircase and a houses opening out onto
incl museum €7, audioguides splendid altar. Some of cobblestone squares. Sim-
€2; h11am-2.30pm & 4.30- the best cathedral views ply wandering around
8.30pm Tue-Sun), one of are from up the hill at the village is the main
Spain’s longest and nar- the lookout, just below pastime, and don’t miss
rowest castles (the walls the 9th-century Castillo the charming riverside
and towers stretch over de Burgos. Elsewhere in pathways or outdoor
200m but are little more town, two monasteries – tables that spill out onto
than 20m across). Within the Cartuja de Miraflores the squares. Otherwise,
the castle’s crenulated (%947 25 25 86; h10.15am- the main attraction is the
walls is the state-of-the- 3pm & 4-6pm Mon, Tue & Thu- Colegiata de San Cosme
art Museo Provincial Sat, 11am-3pm & 4-6pm Sun) y Damián (admission €2.50;
del Vino, the local wine and the Monasterio de h10.30am-2pm & 4-7pm Mon
museum that tells a las Huelgas (%947 20 16 & Wed-Sat, 4.30-6pm Sun),
comprehensive story of 30; www.monasteriodelashuel- which has the evocative
the region’s wines. gas.org; guided tours €7, Wed atmosphere of a mini ca-
free; h10am-1pm & 4-5.30pm thedral and Spain’s oldest
4 p425 still-functioning church
Tue-Sat, 10.30am-2pm Sun) –
The Drive » The N122 are worth seeking out, organ; note also the
continues east of Peñafiel. At while the city’s eating gloriously ostentatious
Aranda del Duero, turn north scene is excellent. altar, fronted by several
along the E5 and make for Roman stone tombs, plus
Lerma, an ideal place to stop 54 p412, p425 that of Fernán González,

422

the 10th-century founder
of Castilla. Don’t miss the DETOUR:
graceful cloisters and the SANTO DOMINGO
sacristia with its vibrant DE SILOS
15th-century paintings
by Van Eyck and tryptic Start: a Covarrubias
Adoracion de los Magis. Nestled in the rolling hills just off the Burgos–Soria
The Drive » The N234 winds (N234) road, this tranquil, pretty village is built
southwest of Covarrubias around a monastery with an unusual claim to fame:
through increasingly contoured monks from here made the British pop charts in
country all the way to Soria. the mid-1990s with recordings of Gregorian chants.
Along the way there are signs Notable for its pleasingly unadorned Romanesque
to medieval churches and sanctuary dominated by a multidomed ceiling, the
hermitages marking many church (h6am-2pm & 4.30-10pm, chant 6am, 7.30am,
minor roads that lead off into 9am, 1.45pm, 4pm, 7pm & 9.30pm) is where you can hear
the trees. In no time at all
you’ll see the turn-off to Santo the monks chant. The monastery, one of the most SPAIN 30 HISTORIC CASTILLA Y LEÓN
Domingo de Silos. famous in central Spain, is known for its stunning
cloister (admission €3.50; h10am-1pm & 4.30-6pm Tue-
Sat, 4.30-6pm Sun), a two-storey treasure chest of some
b Soria of Spain’s most imaginative Romanesque art. Don’t
Small-town Soria is miss the unusually twisted column on the cloister’s
western side. For sweeping views over the town, pass
one of Spain’s smaller
provincial capitals. Set under the Arco de San Juan and climb the grassy hill
to the south to the Ermita del Camino y Via Crucis.
on Río Duero in the
heart of backwoods
Castilian countryside, north is the beautiful interlaced arches in the
it has an appealing and Romanesque Iglesia de partially ruined cloister.
compact old centre, and Santo Domingo (Calle A lovely riverside walk
a sprinkling of stunning de Santo Tomé Hospicio; south for 2.3km will take
monuments. The narrow h7am-9pm), with a small you past the 13th-century
streets of the town centre but exquisitely sculpted church of the former
on Plaza Mayor, with its portal of reddish stone Knights Templar, the
attractive Renaissance- that seems to glow at Monasterio de San Polo
era ayuntamiento and sunset. Down the hill by (not open to the public),
the Iglesia de Santa the river east of the town and on to the fascinat-
María la Mayor, with its centre, the 12th-century ing, baroque Ermita de
unadorned Romanesque Monasterio de San Juan San Saturio (Paseo de San
facade and gilt-edged de Duero (Camino Monte de Saturio; h10.30am-2pm &
interior. A block north is las Ánimas; admission €0.60, 4.30-7.30pm Tue-Sun).
the majestic, sandstone, Sat & Sun free; h10am-2pm
16th-century Palacio & 5-8pm Tue-Sat, 10am-2pm 54 p425
de los Condes Gomara Sun) has many gracefully
(Calle de Aguirre). Further










423

Eating & Sleeping / GETTY IMAGES ©



Segovia 2 Salamanca 4
5 Restaurante 5 Mesón Cervantes Castilian €€
El Fogón Sefardí Sephardic €€ (www.mesoncervantes.com; Plaza Mayor 15;
(%921 46 62 50; www.lacasamudejar.com; Calle menú del día €13.50, mains €10-22; h10am-
de Isabel la Católica 8; mains €15-25, tapas from midnight) Although there are outdoor tables
€2.50; h1.30-4.30pm & 5.30-11.30pm) Located on the square, the dark wooden beams and
within the Hospedería La Gran Casa Mudéjar, atmospheric buzz of the Spanish crowd on the
this is one of the most original places in town. 1st floor should be experienced at least once;
Sephardic and Jewish cuisine is served either on if you snaffle a window table in the evening,
the intimate patio or in the splendid dining hall you’ve hit the jackpot. The food’s a mix of platos
with original, 15th-century Mudéjar flourishes. combinados (meat-and-three-veg dishes),
The theme in the bar is equally diverse. Stop salads and raciones (large tapas servings).
here for a taste of the award-winning tapas. 4 Microtel
SPAIN 30 HISTORIC CASTILLA Y LEÓN
Reservations recommended.
Placentinos Boutique Hotel €€
4 Hospedería La Gran (%923 28 15 31; www.microtelplacentinos.
Casa Mudéjar Historic Hotel €€ com; Calle de Placentinos 9; s/d incl breakfast
(%921 46 62 50; www.lacasamudejar.com; Calle Sun-Thu €57/73, Fri & Sat €88/100; aW) One
de Isabel la Católica 8; r from €80; aiW) of Salamanca’s most charming boutique hotels,
Spread over two buildings, this place has been Microtel Placentinos is tucked away on a quiet
magnificently renovated, blending genuine street and has rooms with stone walls and wooden
15th-century Mudéjar carved wooden ceilings beams. The service is faultless, and the overall
in some rooms with modern amenities. In the atmosphere is one of intimacy and discretion. All
newer wing, the rooms on the top floors have rooms have a hydromassage shower or tub and
fine mountain views out over the rooftops of there’s a summer-only outside whirpool spa.
Segovia’s old Jewish quarter. Adding to the
appeal, there’s a small spa and the restaurant
comes highly recommended. Zamora 5
5 El Rincón
Ávila 3 de Antonio Contemporary Castilian €€€
(%980 53 53 70; www.elrincondeantonio.
4 Hotel El Rastro Historic Hotel € com; Rúa de los Francos 6; mains €19.50-26,
(%920 35 22 25; www.elrastroavila.com; Calle set menus €11-65; h1.30-4pm & 8.30-11.30pm
Cepedas; s/d €35/55; aW) This atmospheric Mon-Sat, 1.30-4.30pm Sun) A fine place offering
hotel occupies a former 16th-century palace tapas in the bar, as well as sit-down meals
with original stone, exposed brickwork and a in a classy, softly lit dining area. Amid the
natural earth-toned colour scheme exuding range of tasting menus there’s one consisting
a calm understated elegance. Each room has of four tapas for €11, including a glass of
a different form, but most have high ceilings wine. In the restaurant, dishes are classic
and plenty of space. Note that the owners also with a contemporary twist, such as Galician
run a marginally cheaper, same-name hostal scallops served in onion leaves. Reservations
(budget hotel) around the corner. recommended.

424

4 Parador Condes 4 Hotel La Puebla Boutique Hotel €€
de Alba y Aliste Historic Hotel €€€ (%947 20 00 11; www.hotellapuebla.com;
(%980 51 44 97; www.parador.es; Plaza Viriato Calle de la Puebla 20; r from €95; aiW)
5; r €100-168; aiWs) Set in a sumptuous This boutique hotel adds a touch of style to
15th-century palace, this is modern luxury with the Burgos hotel scene. The rooms aren’t
myriad period touches (mostly in the public huge and most don’t have views but they’re
areas). There’s a swimming pool and, unlike softly lit, beautifully designed and supremely
many paradores (luxurious state-owned hotels), comfortable. Extra perks include bikes and
it’s right in the heart of town. On the downside, a pillow menu, while, on the downside, some
there is very limited parking available (just eight readers have complained about the level of
places). The restaurant (menú del día €33) is street noise.
predictabe parador quality.
Soria b
Peñafiel 8
5 Baluarte Contemporary Castilian €€
4 Hotel Convento (%975 21 36 58; www.baluarte.info; Caballeros SPAIN 30 HISTORIC CASTILLA Y LEÓN
Las Claras Historic Hotel €€ 14; mains €12-25, menú degustación €47;
(%983 87 81 68; www.hotelconventolasclaras. h1.45-3.45pm & 9-11pm Tue-Sat, 1.30-
com; Plaza de los Comuneros 1; s €80-105, d 3.30pm Sun) Oscar Garcia is one of Spain’s
€95-150; aWs) This cool, classy hotel is most exciting new chefs and this venture in
an unexpected find in little Peñafiel. A former Soria appropriately showcases his culinary
convent, the rooms are luxurious and there’s talents. Dishes are based on classic Castilian
a full spa available with thermal baths and ingredients but treated with just enough foam
treatments. There’s also an excellent restaurant and drizzle to ensure that they are both exciting
with, as you’d expect, a carefully chosen wine and satisfying, without being too pretentious.
list. Lighter meals are available in the cafeteria. Reservations essential.
4 Hotel Soria Plaza Mayor Hotel €€
(%975 24 08 64; www.hotelsoriaplazamayor.
Burgos 9
com; Plaza Mayor 10; s/d/ste €65/72/91; ai)
5 Cervecería Morito Tapas € This hotel has terrific rooms, each with its own
(Calle Sombrerería 27; tapas €3, raciones €5-7; style of decor, overlooking either Plaza Mayor or
h12.30-3.30pm & 7-11.30pm) Cervecería a quiet side street. There are so many balconies
Morito is the undisputed king of Burgos tapas that even some bathrooms have their own. The
bars and it’s always crowded, deservedly so. A suites are very comfortable.
typical order is alpargata (lashings of cured ham CaptionCaptionCaptionCaption
with bread, tomato and olive oil) or the pincho
de morcilla (small tapa of local blood sausage).
The presentation is surprising nouvelle,
especially the visual feast of salads.















425

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JOAN GIL / ALAMY ©

Roving La Rioja
Wine Region 31








Learn all about the gift of the grape on this quiet road trip through
vine-studded countryside. Along the way you can visit wine
museums and bodegas and admire stunning architecture.


TRIP HIGHLIGHTS
2–4 DAYS
140 KM / 97 MILES
98 km 1 km
Dinastía Vivanco Logroño GREAT FOR…
Obtain wine-fuelled Delve into the fabulous
knowledge in this culinary scene of this HB
space-age museum understated city

BEST TIME TO GO
Haro September and
# October when the
# #
# #
8
# grapes are being
#
6
#
#
# #J harvested.
%
# # 1
PHOTO
Nájera # I ESSENTIAL
Waving at the camera
from in front of the
# Hotel Marqués de
San Millán
de Cogolla Riscal.
Laguardia BEST FOR
Spin back the wheels of K FOODIES
time in this wine-soaked
fortress town Logroño has some of
the best tapas in Spain.
105km
Elciego Hotel Marqués de Riscal 427

Roving La Rioja
31 Wine Region



La Rioja is home to the best wines in Spain and on this short and sweet road
trip along unhurried back roads you’ll enjoy gorgeous vine-striped countryside
and asleep-at-noon villages of honey-coloured stone. But the real interest is
reserved for food and drink: cutting-edge museums, bodega tours and some
of the best tapas in Spain will make this drive an essential for any foodie.








0 ¸
Río Ebro
# \ N124
Briñas
# \
Labastida
# \
0 ¸ Haro # San Vicente H # \ Bodegas Ysios
#
# 5
#
N232
\
# \ de la p434 Laguardia
# \ #
8
# \ # \ # Sonsierra #
6
Casalarreine #
Briones Viana
0 ¸ 0 ¸ # : : : : : : 0 ¸ : : : : : # \
:
# 7
# \ Elciego
LR111
N232
: A124
29
63 km to : : : : : :FG
:
F G : : : : : : : : : : : Logroño
30
:
# ^ #
# 1
‚ : : : : : J
:
:
:
/ · : : : / · : %
A12
:
:
A12
# F G Navarrete : : : : :
4
# \ #
:
Santo 29 Nájera # : : # \ : : : : : :
# #
\ 2
Domingo : : : : : : : : :
de la Calzada 0 ¸ 0 ¸ : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : :
LR204
LR113
: : : : : : : :
N111
: : : : : :0¸ : : :
: : : : : :
San Millán # \ # : : : : : : :
# \ #
de Cogolla 3
# e 0 0 5 miles
10 km

related activities. For have been recognised by
more on things to see and Unesco as World Herit-
TRIP HIGHLIGHT
do in Logroño, see p405. age sites.
1 Logroño The Monasterio de
Small and low-key 4 p412, p435 Yuso (%941 37 30 49; www.
Logroño is the capital of The Drive » It’s only a short monasteriodeyuso.org; adult/
La Rioja. The city doesn’t drive of 28km (25 minutes) child €6/2; h10am-1.30pm &
receive all that many from Logroño to Nájera along 4-6.30pm Tue-Sun) contains
tourists and there aren’t the N232, which transforms into numerous treasures in
the A12 motorway around the
all that many things to halfway point. its museum. You can only
see and do, but there is visit as part of a guided
a monumentally good tour. Tours last 50 min-
selection of tapas bars. In 2 Nájera utes and run every half-
fact, Logroño is quickly hour or so. In August it’s
gaining a culinary repu- The main attraction of also open on Mondays.
this otherwise unexciting
tation to rival anywhere town, which lies on the A short distance away
in Spain. Camino de Santiago, is is the Monasterio de SPAIN 31 ROvING LA RIOjA WINE REGION
Based in the small Suso (%941 37 30 82; admis-
village of Fuenmayor (10 the Gothic Monasterio sion €4; h9.30am-1.30pm &
minutes west of Logroño), de Santa María la Real 3.30-6.30pm Tue-Sun). It’s
(admission €3; h10am-1pm &
Rioja Trek (%941 58 73 54; 4-7pm Tue-Sat, 10am-12.30pm believed that in the 13th
www.riojatrek.com; wine experi- & 4-6pm Sun), in particular century a monk named
ence €28 per person) offers its fragile-looking, early- Gonzalo de Berceo wrote
three-hour wine ‘experi- the first Castilian words
ences’ where you visit a 16th-century cloisters. here. Again, it can only
The monastery was
vineyard and bodega and built in 1032, but was be visited on a guided
participate in the process significantly rebuilt in tour. Tickets, which must
of actually making wine the 15th-century. be bought in advance,
yourself. It also offers can be reserved by phone
family-friendly wine- The Drive » The dry and can be picked up at
landscapes around Nájera the Monasterio de Yuso.
become greener and more
rolling as you head southwest The Drive » It’s a 23km
LINK along the LR113 and LR205 for (20 minute) drive along the
delightfully quiet LR204 to
YOUR 18km (20 minutes) to San Millán Santo Domingo de la Calzada.
de Cogolla. In the far distance
TRIP mountains, which are snow- The scenery is a mix of vast
capped in winter, rise up. sunburnt fields, red tinged soils,
t Northern Spain vineyards and patches of forest.
Pilgrimage
Drive alongside pilgrims 3 San Millán de
on the road to Santiago Cogolla 4 Santo Domingo
de Compostela. You can The hamlet of San Millán de la Calzada
join ‘the Way’ in Logroño. The small, walled old
de Cogolla is home to two town of Santo Domingo
u Historic remarkable monaster- is the kind of place
ies, which between them
Castilla y León
where you can be certain
A quick skip south to helped give birth to that the baker knows
the Castilian (Spanish)
Soria will let you do this all his customers by
captivating inland tour in language. On account of name and that everyone
their linguistic heritage
reverse. will turn up for María’s
and artistic beauty, they
429

christening. Santiago- The Drive » The LR111 goes There are plenty of
bound pilgrims have in an almost ruler-straight wine bodegas in the vi-
long been a part of the line across fields of crops cinity of the town, some
fabric of this town, and and under a big sky to the of which are open to visi-
that tradition continues workaday town of Haro (20km, tors (almost always with
to this day, with most 20 minutes). advance reservation).
visitors being foot-weary One of the more recep-
pilgrims. All this helps tive to visitors is the Bo-
to make Santo Domingo 5 Haro degas Muga (%941 30 60
one of the most enjoy- Despite its fame in the 60; www.bodegasmuga.com;
able places in La Rioja. wine world, there’s not Barrio de la Estación; winery
The biggest attraction much of a heady bouquet tour €10), which is just
in town, aside from the to Haro, the capital of La after the railway bridge
very worthwhile pursuit Rioja’s wine-producing on the way out of town.
of just strolling the region. But the town has It gives daily guided
streets and lounging in a cheerful pace and the tours (except Sunday) in
the main old-town plaza, compact old quarter, Spanish, and tastings.
is a visit to the cathe- leading off Plaza de la Although technically you
dral. See p406 for more. Paz, has some intriguing should book in advance
alleyways with bars and in high season, you can
4p435 wine shops aplenty. often just turn up and


SPAIN 31 ROvING LA RIOjA WINE REGION
LOCAL KNOWLEDGE:
TAPAS IN LOGROÑO
Make no mistake about it: Logroño is a foodie’s delight. There are a number of very
good restaurants, and then there are the tapas (which here are sometimes called
by their Basque name of pintxos). Few cities have such a dense concentration of
excellent tapas bars. Most of the action takes place on Calle Laurel and Calle de San
Juan. Tapas cost around €2 to €4, and most of the bars are open from about 8pm
through to midnight, except on Mondays. The following are some of our favourites.
Torrecilla (Calle Laurel 15; pintxos from €2) OK, we’re going to stick our necks out here
and say that this place serves the best pintxos in town. Go for the pyramid of jamón
(cured ham) or the miniburgers (which come with mini bottles of ketchup!). In fact,
what the heck, go for anything. It’s all good!
Bar Soriano (Travesía de Laurel 2; pintxos from €2) The smell of frying food will suck you
into this bar, which has been serving up the same delicious mushroom tapa, topped
with a shrimp, for more than 30 years.
La Taberna de Baco (Calle de San Agustín 10; pintxos from €2) This place has a cracking
list of around 40 different pintxos, including bombitas (potatoes stuffed with
mushrooms) and a delightful mess of toast with pate, apple, goat cheese and
caramel.
La Fontana (Calle Laurel 16; pintxos from €2) Another stellar pintxo bar with a
welcoming atmosphere. This one’s speciality is sepia fontana. And when you order
this what emerges from the kitchen? A pile of egg, mushroom, aubergine and foie
gras. The octopus isn’t bad either.


430

THE WEALTH OF THE GRAPE

La Rioja, and the surrounding areas of Navarra and the Basque province of Álava,
is Spain’s best-regarded wine-producing region. La Rioja itself is further divided
into three separate wine-producing areas: Rioja Alta, Rioja Baja and Rioja Alavesa.
The principal grape of Rioja is the tempranillo. The first taste of a tempranillo is of
leather and cherries and the wine lingers on the tongue.
The Riojans have had a long love affair with wine. There’s evidence that both the
Phoenicians and the Celtiberians produced and drank wine here and the earliest
written evidence of grape cultivation in La Rioja dates to 873. Today, some 250
million litres of wine bursts forth from the grapes of La Rioja annually. Almost all
of this (around 85%) is red wine, though some quality whites and rosés are also
produced. The Riojan love of wine is so great that in the town of Haro they even have
a fiesta devoted to wine. It culminates with a messy ‘wine battle’ in which thousands
of litres of wine gets chucked around, turning everyone’s clothes red in the process.
This takes place on 29 June. SPAIN 31 ROvING LA RIOjA WINE REGION
How to find a good bottle? Spanish wine is subject to a complicated system of
classification, similar to the ones used in France and Italy. La Rioja is the only wine
region in Spain classed as Denominación de Origen Calificada (DOC), the highest
grade and a guarantee that any wine labelled as such was produced according to
strict regional standards. The best wines are often marked with the designation
‘Crianza’ (aged for a year in an oak barrel), ‘Reserva’ (aged for two years, at least
one of which is in an oak barrel) and ‘Gran Reserva’ (aged for two years in an oak
barrel and three years in the bottle).

latch on to the back of de la Cultura del Vino; www. some wine tasting, and
a tour. dinastiavivanco.com; adult/ by booking in advance,
child €8/free; h11am-6pm you can join a tour of the
The Drive » Briones is almost
within walking distance of Tue-Fri & Sun, 10am-8pm Sat winery (€20 including
Haro. It’s just 9km away (10 Jul-Aug, shorter hours rest of museum entry; in Span-
minutes) along the N124. year). Over several floors ish only).
you will learn all about
the history and culture The Drive » It’s 19km (25
TRIP HIGHLIGHT minutes) along the N232 to
of wine and the various Elciego. The scenery, which is
6 Briones processes that go into its made up of endless vineyards,
One man’s dream has production. All of this is will delight anyone who enjoys
put the small, obscenely done through interesting wide open spaces. In the
quaint village of Briones displays brought to life distance are strange sheer-
firmly on the Spanish with computer technol- faced table-topped mountains.
wine and tourism ogy. The treasures on
map. The sunset-gold display include Picasso- 7 Elciego
village crawls gently designed wine jugs;
up a hillside and offers Roman and Byzantine When the owner of the
commanding views over mosaics; gold-draped, Bodegas Marqués de
the surrounding vine- wine-inspired religious Riscal, in the village
carpeted plains. It’s on artifacts; and the world’s of Elciego, decided
these plains where you largest collection of he wanted to create
will find the fantastic corkscrews. At the end something special, he
Dinastía Vivanco (Museo of the tour you can enjoy didn’t hold back. The

431

WHY THIS IS A STOCKPHOTOASTUR / GETTY IMAGES ©
GREAT TRIP
STUART BUTLER,
HEMIS / ALAMY ©
AUTHOR
How can anyone not love an area
sloshing in wine?! Well, for me, wine
is only a part of my love for this
region. The light and huge skies is
what draws me here. It’s so very
different to the often grey and damp
north coast where I live. It feels so,
well, Spanish!


Top: La Rioja vineyards
Left: Bodegas Palacio cellar, Laguardia
Right: Hotel Marqués de Riscal, Elciego

result is the spectacular
Frank Gehry–designed
Hotel Marqués de Riscal.
Costing around €85
million, the building is
a flamboyant wave of
TIM GRAHAM / GETTY IMAGES ©
multicoloured titanium
sheets that stands in
utter contrast to the
village behind. It’s like
a rainbow-flavoured
Guggenheim museum
(not surprisingly, per-
haps, as that was also
designed by Gehry).
Casual visitors are not
really welcome to look SPAIN 31 ROvING LA RIOjA WINE REGION
around the hotel, but
there is an excellent
wine shop and interest-
ing wine tours (%945 18
08 88; www.marquesderiscal.
com; tour €11) take place
– there’s at least one
English-language tour
a day.
4p435
The Drive » It’s only 15
minutes (9km) along the A3210
from Elciego to wonderful
Laguardia, which rises up off
the otherwise flat, vine-striped
countryside.

TRIP HIGHLIGHT
8 Laguardia
It’s easy to spin back the
wheels of time in the
medieval fortress town
of Laguardia, or the
‘Guard of Navarra’ as it
was once appropriately
known, sitting proudly
on its rocky hilltop. As
well as memories of
long-lost yesterdays, the
town further entices
visitors with its wine-
producing present.


433

Bodegas Palacio (%945
60 01 51; www.bodegas-
palacio.com; Carretera de DETOUR:
Elciego; tour €5; htours BODEGAS YSIOS
11am & 1pm Mon & Sat,
4.30pm Tue-Fri, 1.30pm Start: 8 Laguardia (p433)
Sun, closed afternoons Jul Just a couple of kilometres to the north of Laguardia
& Aug) is only 1km from is the Bodegas Ysios (%941 27 99 00; www.ysios.com;
Laguardia on the Elciego Camino de la Hoya, Laguardia; per person €10; htours
road; reservations are 10.30am, 1pm & 3pm Mon-Fri, 10.30am & 1pm Sat & Sun,
not essential but are a advance booking required). Architecturally it’s one of the
good idea (especially most gob-smacking bodegas in Spain. Designed by
out of season). Also just Santiago Calatrava as a ‘temple dedicated to wine’,
outside Laguardia is the it’s wavelike roof made of aluminium and cedar
Centro Temático del wood matches the flow of the rocky mountains
Vino Villa Lucia (%945 behind it. Daily tours of the bodega are an excellent
60 00 32; www.villa-lucia. introduction to wine production.
com; Carretera de Logroño;
museum €11; h11am-6.30pm
Tue-Fri, 10.15am-6.30pm guided tour only and The Drive » From Laguardia
Sat, 11am-12.30pm Sun), a finish with a 4D film and it’s a short 18km (20 minutes)
wine museum and shop. wine tasting. down the A124 back to Logroño
Museum visits are by and the start of this tour.
54p435 CARLOS SANCHEZ PEREYRA / GETTY IMAGES ©
SPAIN 31 ROvING LA RIOjA WINE REGION





























Bodegas Ysios

434

Eating & Sleeping




Logroño 1 Elciego 7
4 Hotel Marqués 4 Hotel Marqués
de Vallejo Design Hotel €€ de Riscal Design Hotel €€€
(%941 24 83 33; www.hotelmarquesdevallejo. (%945 18 08 80; www.hotel-marquesderiscal.
com; Calle del Marqués de Vallejo 8; s/d from com; Calle Torrea 1; r from €310; paW) When
€50/75; paW) From the driftwood art to the owner of Elciego’s Bodegas Marqués de Riscal
cow skins, beach pebbles and photographic decided he wanted to create something special,
flashlights it’s clear that a lot of thought and he didn’t hold back. The result is the spectacular
effort has gone into the design of this stylish, Frank Gehry–designed Hotel Marqués de Riscal.
modern and very well-priced hotel. Costing around €85 million, the building is a wave
of multicoloured titanium sheets that stand in
utter contrast to the village behind. SPAIN 31 ROvING LA RIOjA WINE REGION
Santo Domingo de la Calzada 4
4 Hostal R Pedro Hotel € Laguardia 8
(%941 34 11 60; www.hostalpedroprimero.
es; Calle San Roque 9; s/d €48/59; W) This 5 Restaurante Amelibia Spanish €€
carefully renovated townhouse, which has (%945 62 12 07; www.restauranteamelibia.com;
terracotta-coloured rooms with wooden roof Barbacana 14; menú del día €17; h1-3.30pm
beams and entirely modern bathrooms, is a Sun-Mon & Wed-Thu, 1-3.30pm & 9-10.30pm Fri &
terrific deal. Sat) This classy restaurant is one of Laguardia’s
highlights: stare out the windows at a view over
4 Parador the scorched plains and mountain ridges while
Santo Domingo Historic Hotel €€ dining on sublime traditional Spanish cuisine.
(%941 34 03 00; www.parador.es; Plaza del
Santo 3; r from €105; pW) The Parador Santo 4 Posada Mayor
Domingo is the antithesis of the town’s general de Migueloa Historic Hotel €€
air of piety. Occupying a 12th-century former (%945 600 187; www.mayordemigueloa.com;
hospital, opposite the cathedral, this palatial Calle Mayor 20; s/d incl breakfast €99/105; aW)
hotel offers anything but a frugal medieval-like For the ultimate in gracious La Rioja living, this
existence. The in-house restaurant is reliably old mansion-hotel with its rickety rooms full
good. of polished wood is irresistible. The in-house
restaurant (menus from €24), which is open to
4 Parador Santo Domingo nonguests, is recommended and offers original
Bernado de Fresneda Hotel €€ twists on local cuisine. Under the hotel is a small
(%941 34 11 50; www.parador.es; Plaza de San wine bodega (guided visits for non-guests €5).
Francisco 1; r from €90; pW) Just on the edge
of the old town is the Parador Santo Domingo 4 Castillo el Collado Historic Hotel €€€
Bernado de Fresneda, which occupies a former (%945 62 12 00; www.hotelcollado.com; Paseo
convent and pilgrim hostel, although quite el Collado 1; d €125-185; W) Like a whimsical
honestly, with its divine beds and rooms that Disney dream castle, this place, which from the
gush luxury, you probably wouldn’t describe it outside is all sturdy turrets and pretty flower
as a ‘hostel’ anymore. gardens, is a truly unique place to stay. The
half-dozen rooms are all different but combine
quirky style with luxury living. The open-to-all
restaurant (menus from €25) is also excellent.




435

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NEED TO Climate

KNOW # Santiago de Compostela
GO May–Sep
Barcelona
CURRENCY GO year-round
#
Euro (€)
Madrid
GO Mar–May, Sep & Oct
LANGUAGE #
Valencia
Spanish (Castilian). Also # GO year-round
Catalan, Basque and
Galician.
VISAS Seville
Generally not required for # GO Oct–Apr
stays of up to 90 days (not
at all for members of EU
or Schengen countries). Dry climate
Some nationalities need a Warm to hot summers, cold winters
Schengen visa. Mild to hot summers, cold winters
Cold climate
FUEL
Petrol stations (usually
open 24 hours) can be
found along major highways. When to Go
Expect to pay €1.35 to €1.80 High Season (Jun–Aug, public holidays)
per litre.
» Accommodation books out and prices increase by up to 50%.
RENTAL CARS » Low season in parts of inland Spain.
Auto Jardim (www. » Expect warm, dry and sunny weather; more humid in coastal
autojardim.com) areas.
Hertz (www.hertz.com) Shoulder (Mar–May, Sep & Oct)
Holiday Autos (www. » A good time to travel: mild, clear weather and fewer crowds.
holidayautos.com) » Local festivals can send prices soaring.
Pepecar (www.pepecar.com)
Low Season (Nov–Feb)
IMPORTANT NUMBERS » Cold in central Spain; rain in the north and northwest.
Europe-wide emergencies » Mild temperatures in Andalucía and the Mediterranean coast.
(%112) » This is high season in ski resorts.
International access code » Many hotels are closed in beach areas but elsewhere prices
(%00) plummet.
Country code (%34)






436

Price categories indicate the El Prat Airport
Daily Costs cost of a main course: (Barcelona)
Budget: Less than €80 Rental cars Major car-rental
» Dorm bed: €20–30 € less than €10 agencies have concessions at
» Double room in hostal (budget €€ €10–20 arrival terminals.
hotel): €55–65 (more in Madrid €€€ more than Buses Cost €5.90 and run
and Barcelona) €20 every five to 10 minutes from
» Self-catering and lunch menú 6.10am to 1.05am; it’s 30 to 40
del día (daily set menu): €10–15 minutes to the centre.
» Use museum and gallery ‘free Sleeping Trains Cost €4.10 and run
admission’ afternoons every 30 minutes from 5.42amto
Casas Rurales Comfy village 11.38pm; it takes 25 to 30
Midrange: €80-175 houses or farmhouses for hire in minutes to reach the centre.
» Double room in midrange the countryside. Taxis Cost €25 to €30 and
hotel: €65–140 Hostales Simple guesthouses reach the centre in 30 minutes.
» Lunch and/or dinner in local that have ensuite rooms.
restaurant: €20–40 Paradores State funded
» Car rental: per day from €25 lodging often in castles, ex- Mobile Phones (Cell
monasteries or old mansions. Phones)
Top End: More than €175 Pensión Inexpensive, extremely
» Double room in top-end hotel: basic guesthouses,often with Local SIM cards are widely
€140 and up (€200 in Madrid, shared bathrooms. available and can be used in
Barcelona and the Balearics) European and Australian mobile
Price categories indicate the phones, but are not compatible
» Fine dining for lunch and cost of a double room with with many North American or
dinner: €150–250 private bathroom in high season: Japanese systems.
» Double room in parador
(luxurious state-owned hotel): BARCELONA ELSEWHERE
€120–200 & MADRID Internet Access
€ less than less than Wi-fi is available in most lodgings
€75 €65 and cafes (and is usually free).
Eating €€ €75– €65–140 Internet cafes are rare.
Tapas Bar Tapas and 200
drinks;open longer hours than €€€ more more
restaurants. Money
than than
Taberna Rustic place serving €200 €140 The most convenient way to
tapas and raciones (large tapas). bring your money is in the form
Panadería Bakery; good for of a debit or credit card, with
pastries and coffee. Arriving in Spain some extra cash in case of an
Vinoteca Wine bar where you emergency.
order by the glass. Barajas Airport (Madrid) Many credit and debit cards can
Cervecería Beerhall; the place Rental cars Major car-rental be used for withdrawing money
from cajeros automáticos
to go for snacks and draft beer agencies have desks in the (ATMs) that display the
(cerveza). airport at arrival terminals. relevant symbols such as Visa,
Marisqueira Eatery Metro & buses Cost around MasterCard, Cirrus etc. There is
specialising in seafood. €5 and run every five to 10 usually a charge (around 1.5%
minutes from 6.05am to 1.30am; to 2%) on ATM cash withdrawals
30 to 40 minutes to the centre.
abroad.
Taxis Cost €30 and reach the
centre in 20 minutes.
437

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd





Language





The pronunciation of most Spanish sounds is very similar to that of their English counter-
parts. If you read our coloured pronunciation guides as if they were English, you’ll be under-
stood. Note that kh is a throaty sound (like the ‘ch’ in the Scottish loch), r is strongly rolled, ly
is pronounced as the ‘lli’ in ‘million’ and ny as the ‘ni’ in ‘onion’. You may also notice that the
‘lisped’ th sound is pronounced as s in Andalucia. In our pronunciation guides stressed syl-
lables are indicated with italics.


Can you please write it down?
SPANISH BASICS ¿Puede escribirlo, pwe·de es·kree·beer·lo
Hello. Hola. o·la por favor? por fa·vor
Goodbye. Adiós. a·dyos Can you show me (on the map)?
How are you? ¿Qué tal? ke tal ¿Me lo puede indicar me lo pwe·de een·dee·kar
(en el mapa)?
(en el ma·pa)
Fine, thanks. Bien, gracias. byen gra·syas
Excuse me. Perdón. per·don
Sorry. Lo siento. lo syen·to EMERGENCIES
Yes. Sí. see Help! ¡Socorro! so·ko·ro
No. No. no I’m lost.
Please. Por favor. por fa·vor Estoy perdido/a. es·toy per·dee·do/a (m/f)
Thank you. Gracias. gra·syas
You’re ON THE ROAD
welcome. De nada. de na·da I’d like to Quisiera kee·sye·ra
My name is … hire a … alquilar … al·kee·lar …
Me llamo … me lya·mo … 4WD un todo- oon to·do·
What’s your name? terreno te·re·no
¿Cómo se llama Usted? ko·mo se lya·ma oo·ste (pol) bicycle una oo·na
¿Cómo te llamas? ko·mo te lya·mas (inf) bicicleta bee·see·kle·ta
Do you speak English? car un coche oon ko·che
¿Habla inglés? a·bla een·gles (pol) motorcycle una moto oo·na mo·to
¿Hablas inglés? a·blas een·gles (inf)
I don’t understand.
No entiendo. no en·tyen·do
Want More?
DIRECTIONS For in-depth language information
Where’s …? and handy phrases, check out Lonely
¿Dónde está …? don·de es·ta … Planet’s Spanish Phrasebook. You’ll
What’s the address? find them at shop.lonelyplanet.com.
¿Cuál es la dirección? kwal es la dee·rek·syon




438

petrol
windscreen gasolina f
parabrisas m ga·so·lee·na
pa·ra·bree·sas




battery
batería f
ba·ta·ree·a
engine
motor m
mo·tor

headlight tyre
faro m rueda f
fa·ro rwe·da

child seat asiento de a·syen·to de I had an accident.
seguridad se·goo·ree·da He tenido un e te·nee·do oon
para niños pa·ra nee·nyos accidente. ak·thee·den·te
diesel gasóleo ga·so·le·o I need a mechanic.
helmet casco kas·ko Necesito un/una ne·the·see·to oon/oo·na
mechanic mecánico me·ka·nee·ko mecánico/a. m/f me·ka·nee·ko/a
petrol gasolina ga·so·lee·na Are there cycling paths?
ai ka·reel bee·thee·kle·ta
¿Hay carril bicicleta?
service station gasolinera ga·so·lee·ne·ra Is there bicycle parking?
¿Hay aparcamiento ai a·par·ka·myen·to
How much is it per day/hour? de bicicletas? de bee·thee·kle·tas
¿Cuánto cuesta por kwan·to kwes·ta por
día/hora? dee·a/o·ra
Is this the road to …?
¿Se va a … por esta se va a … por es·ta
carretera? ka·re·te·ra Signs
(How long) Can I park here?
¿(Por cuánto tiempo) (por kwan·to tyem·po) Stop Stop
Puedo aparcar aquí? pwe·do a·par·kar a·kee Ceda el Paso Give Way
The car has broken down (at …).
El coche se ha averiado el ko·che se a a·ve·rya·do Prohibido No Entry
(en …). (en …) Acceso Entrance
I have a flat tyre. Peaje Toll
Tengo un pinchazo. ten·go oon peen·cha·tho Dirección Única
I’ve run out of petrol. One Way
Me he quedado sin me e ke·da·do seen Vía Acceso Freeway Exit
gasolina. ga·so·lee·na Aparcamiento ParkingA
Where’s a petrol station? Prohibido Aparcar No Parking
¿Dónde hay una don·de ai oo·na
gasolinera? ga·so·lee·ne·ra





439

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Plaza Mayor
So many Madrid stories begin in
Madrid’s grand central square. Since
it was laid out in 1619, the Plaza Mayor
STRETCH has seen everything from bullfights to
the trials of the Spanish Inquisition.
YOUR LEGS These days the grandeur of the plaza
owes much to the warm colours of the
uniformly ochre apartments, with 237
MADRID wrought-iron balconies offset by the ex-
quisite frescoes of the 17th-century Real
Casa de la Panadería (Royal Bakery).
The Walk » Walk down Calle de Postas off the
plaza’s northeastern corner, cross the endlessly
busy Plaza de la Puerta del Sol, then continue east
along Carrera de San Jerónimo. At elegant Plaza
Start/Finish: Plaza Mayor de Canalejas, turn right.
Distance: 3.8km Plaza de Santa Ana
There are few more iconic Madrid
Duration: Two to three hours squares than Plaza de Santa Ana, a
local favourite since Joseph Bonaparte
carved it out of this crowded inner-city
neighbourhood in 1810. Surrounded by
Madrid’s compact and historic classic Madrid architecture of pastel
centre is ideal for exploring on shades and wrought-iron balconies, the
plaza presides over the Barrio de las Le-
foot. So much of Madrid life occurs tras and the outdoor tables are among
on the streets and in its glorious the most sought-after in the city.
plazas, and it all takes place The Walk » Walking west, cross Plaza del Ángel,
walk along Calle de la Bolsa, cross Calle de Toledo
against a spectacular backdrop of and make for Calle de la Cava Baja, a glorious,
medieval street lined with tapas bars. Keep Iglesia
architecture, stately and grand. de San Andrés on your right, and stroll down the
hill to Plaza de la Paja.
Plaza de la Paja
Delightful Plaza de la Paja (Straw Sq)
slopes down into the tangle of lanes that
once made up Madrid’s Muslim quarter.
In the 12th and 13th centuries the city’s
main market occupied the square and
it retains a palpable medieval air, and
at times can feel like a Castilian village
square. Delic (%91 364 54 50; www.delic.es;
Costanilla de San Andrés 14; h11am-2am Sun &
Tue-Thu, 11am-2.30am Fri & Sat; mLa Latina),
Take this walk on Trip with tables on the square, is brilliant for
a mojito, while the Jardín del Príncipe
u Anglona (Plaza de la Paja; h10am-10pm
Apr-Oct, 10am-6.30pm Nov-Mar; mLa Latina),

440

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LA LATINA C de Ruda Cascorro C Tres Peces
200 m
EL RASTRO # e 0 0 0.1 miles
a walled 18th-century garden, is a cient monarchs. Local legend holds that
peaceful oasis in the heart of this most these royals get down off their pedestals
clamorous of cities. at night to stretch their legs.
The Walk » Take any lanes heading west The Walk » Return south along Calle de Bailén,
through La Morería, the old Muslim quarter, to then turn left (east) up Calle Mayor. After passing
Calle de Bailén. Turn right, cross the Viaduct (with the intimate Plaza de la Villa on your right,
fine views on either side), pass the cathedral and Mercado de San Miguel appears, also on your right
continue on to Plaza de Oriente. as you climb the hill.
Plaza de Oriente Mercado de San Miguel
Cinematic in scope, Plaza de Oriente is One of Madrid’s oldest and most beauti-
grand and graceful. It’s watched over by ful markets, the Mercado de San Miguel
the Palacio Real (%91 454 88 00; www.patri- (www.mercadodesanmiguel.es; Plaza de San
monionacional.es; Calle de Bailén; adult/conces- Miguel; tapas from €1; h10am-midnight Sun-
sion €11/6, guide/audioguide €4/4, EU citizens free Wed, 10am-2am Thu-Sat; mSol) is now one
last two hours Mon-Thu; h10am-8pm Apr-Sep, of the city’s most exciting gastronomic
10am-6pm Oct-Mar; mÓpera) and the Teatro spaces. Within the early-20th-century
Real (%91 516 06 96; www.teatro-real.com; Plaza glass walls, all manner of stalls serve up
de Oriente; 50min guided tour adult/child under 7yr tapas, from fishy pintxos (Basque tapas)
€8/free; h10.30am-1pm; mÓpera) – Madrid’s atop mini toasts to jamón (cured ham)
opera house – by sophisticated cafes, or other cured meats from Salamanca,
and apartments that cost the equivalent cheeses, pickled goodies and fine wines.
of a royal salary. At the centre of the The Walk » To get back to where you started,
plaza is an equestrian statue of Felipe IV leave the market, walk down Calle de la Cava de
designed by Velázquez, and nearby are San Miguel, turn left and climb the stairs through
some 20 marble statues, mostly of an- the Arco de los Cuchilleros to the Plaza Mayor.
441

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Parc de la Ciutadella
The handsomely landscaped Parc de
la Ciutadella is a local favourite for
a leisurely promenade. Start in the
STRETCH northeast corner, and descend past the
monumental Cascada (waterfall), then
YOUR LEGS stroll south across the park, passing
a small lake and Catalonia’s regional
parliament.
BARCELONA The Walk » With your back to the park, cross
Passeig de Picasso and walk along restaurant-
lined Passeig del Born. According to legend,
jousting matches were once held here.
Basílica de
Santa Maria del Mar
Start: Parc de la Ciutadella Nothing prepares you for the singular
beauty of Basílica de Santa Maria del
Finish: Casa Batlló Mar (%93 310 23 90; Plaça de Santa Maria
del Mar; h9am-1.30pm & 4.30-8.30pm, from
Distance: 3.5km 10.30am Sun; mJaume I). Barcelona’s most
stirring Gothic structure, the 14th-
Duration: Three hours century church was built in just 59
years. In contrast to the tight warren
of neighbouring streets, a real sense
of light and space pervades the entire
Packed with historic treasures sanctuary of the church.
and jaw-dropping architecture, The Walk » Leave via the main entrance and
Barcelona is a wanderer’s delight. follow Carrer de l’Argenteria up to busy Via
Laietana. Turn left onto Baixada de la Llibreteria,
This stroll takes you through then right onto Carrer de la Freneria. After a few
atmospheric medieval lanes and blocks, you’ll see the massive cathedral on your
left.
along elegant boulevards, leading La Catedral
you past Gothic cathedrals, lively For centuries the spiritual heart of
tapas bars and picturesque plazas. Barcelona, La Catedral (%93 342 82 62;
www.catedralbcn.org; Plaça de la Seu; admission
free, special visit €6, choir admission €2.80;
h8am-12.45pm & 5.15-7.30pm Mon-Sat, special
visit 1-5pm Mon-Sat, 2-5pm Sun & holidays;
mJaume I) is at once lavish and sombre,
anchoring the city in its past. Begun in
the late 13th century and not completed
until six centuries later, the cathedral
is Barcelona’s history rendered in stone.
Take this walk on Trips The Walk » Turn left out of the main entrance
and left again down Carrer del Bispe. Just before
r reaching Plaça Sant Jaume, turn right onto Carrer
del Call. Follow this narrow lane a few blocks, then
turn left onto Carrer d’en Quintana. After two
blocks, you’ll reach the plaza.
442

.
500 m
Arc de
Passeig # Passeig Pg de Sant Joan # e 0 0 0.25 miles w w
& K
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Plaça Reial 0000 00 The Walk » Get back on La Rambla and 4
w
One of the most photogenic squares in continue north. You’ll soon reach the spacious
Barcelona, the Plaça Reial is not to be Plaça de Catalunya. Walk diagonally across this
missed. Numerous eateries, bars and plaza, and turn left onto the grand boutique-lined
Passeig de Gràcia, and walk up four blocks to the
nightspots lie beneath the arcades of architectural treasures looming just past Carrer
19th-century neoclassical buildings, with del Consell de Cent.
a buzz of activity at all hours. The lamp
posts by the central fountain are Antoni Casa Batlló
Gaudí’s first known works in the city. Even Gaudí outdid himself with this
The Walk » Exit the square onto famous fantastical apartment block (%93
La Rambla, a bustling boulevard with a wide 216 03 06; www.casabatllo.es; Passeig de
pedestrian-filled strip in the middle. Walk north a Gràcia 43; adult/concessions/child under
few blocks until you see the large cast-iron market 7yr €21.50/€18.50/free; h9am-9pm daily;
off to your left. mPasseig de Gràcia): an astonishing con-
Mercat de la Boqueria fection of rippling balconies, optical
illusions and twisted chimney pots
This temple of temptation is one of along Barcelona’s grandest boulevard.
Europe’s greatest permanent produce The facade, sprinkled with bits of blue,
fairs (%93 318 25 84; www.boqueria.info; La mauve and green tiles and studded
Rambla 91; h8am-8.30pm Mon-Sat, closed with wave-shaped window frames and
Sun; mLiceu). Step inside for a seemingly balconies, rises to an uneven blue-tiled
endless bounty of glistening fruits and roof with a solitary tower.
vegetables, smoked meats, pungent
cheeses and chocolate truffles. In the The Walk » Since it’s a long walk back to the
back, a handful of popular tapas bars start, hop on the metro and head to Arc de Trionf
station, a short stroll from Parc de la Ciutadella.
serve up delectable morsels.
443



Portugal











PORTUGAL’S MIX OF THE MEDIEVAL AND
THE MARITIME makes it a superb place to
visit. A turbulent history involving the Moors,
Spain and Napoleon has left the interior
scattered with walled medieval towns topped
by castles, while the pounding Atlantic has
sculpted a coast of glorious sand beaches.
The nation’s days of exploration and seafaring
have created an introspective yet open culture
with wide-ranging artistic influences. The
eating and drinking scene here is a highlight,
with several wine regions, and restaurants that
are redolent with aromas of grilling pork or the
freshest of fish.
Comparatively short distances mean that
you get full value for road trips here: less time
behind the wheel means you can take more
time to absorb the atmosphere.
Douro Valley Vineyards along the Douro River
SIMON DANNHAUER/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

San
Cosme
A Coruña # \ Avilés Gijón
# ^ # ] : # ] # \
Oviedo # ^ Villaviciosa # ^
:
Portugal Santiago de # ^ # \ Antolín Parque Nacional # ]
San
Compostela
:
Lugo
# ^
de Europa
: de Ibias de los Picos
# #\ Sarria # \
\
Monforte :
Pontevedra # ^ de Lemos Ponferrada : : # \ : : : # ] León : : : : :
# \
:
:
Vigo # ] # ^ Ourense : : : Astorga # \ : : : : Sahagún :
:
# \
Miño : : : : :
Río : Parque : : : : :: :: Pale : : : : :ncia : : : : :
Viana do Montesinho Benavente : # \ : : : : #]
Natural de
Castelo # ^ Braga # \ : : : : : : : : : : :
# ^ Chaves Miranda do Valladolid : : :
Vila Nova de Famalicão # \ Vila Real Douro Zamora : : : : : : : : : : : : # ^ : : : :
: : :
# \
# \ # \ # ]
# \
Porto # ^ : : : : Tordesillas : : ::
:
: :
# ^ F G # \ : : : : :: : : : : : : : : : :
São João 32 Peso # \ Vila Nova
de Madeira # \ da Regua de Foz Côa # ] Salamanca
Aveiro # ^ # ^ Viseu Guarda # \
ATLANTIC Gouveia # ] # ^ # \ Ciudad Ávila # \ # \
Rodrigo
OCEAN Parque Natural da
Coimbra # ^ Serra da Estrela # \
Fundão # \ Bejar
Pombal Plasencia
# \ PORTUGAL # \ : : Navalmoral
:
Leiria # ^ # ^ Castelo de la Mata
# \ Fátima Branco : #\
Caldas da Rainha SPAIN : # ]
# \
Peniche # \ # \ Santarem # \ Abrantes Cáceres # ] La Nava de
Torres Vedras # ^ Portalegre # ^ # \ Trujillo Ricomalillo
# \
: :
LISBON Elvas Mérida Don
Cascais # \ # _ # \Montijo Estremoz # \ # ] : : : # ^ : : : : : : : # \ Benito :
: : : :
Barreiro # \ # \ Badajoz : : : : : : : : : Almadén # ]
Setúbal # ^ # ^ Evora : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : # \
# \
Alcácer # \ # \ Zafra Peñarroya-
do Sal
Pueblonuevo
# \
# \
Sines # \ Beja # ^ Moura # Monesterio
Vila Nova \
# \ de Milfontes Parque Natural Córdoba
Sierra Norte # ^
Bollullos de Sevilla
F G Par del Écija Montilla
33
# \
Silves Huelva Condado # ^ Seville # \ # \
# \ # ^ # \ :
# \ # \ : : : # \ Osuna
Sagres # \ Lagos # ^ # \ Tavira El Rocío # \ Arahal # \
: : : : : : : : : :
Faro :
:
Albufeira : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : Parque Natural : Arcos de la Antequera
# \
de Doñana
Frontera
Chipiona # \ # ] Málaga
Cádiz # ^ Parque # ^ # \
Natural del # \
Estrecho Marbella
Barbate # \ # ^ Gibraltar
Tarifa # \
# e 0 0 100 miles km
200
Tangier # \
MOROCCO

DON'T
MISS


Surfing
Portugal is one of
Europe’s surfing
PAWEL KAZMIERCZAK/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
hotspots: despite the
Mediterranean vibe,
this is the Atlantic, and
those are serious waves
on Trip x

Wine Tasting
Often undererrated,
Portugal’s wines are
among the region’s
great pleasures. Visit
wineries and taste wines
Carrapateira Praia do Amado and ports on Trip w


Hiking
Douro Valley Vineyard Trails 5–7 Days Jump out of the car for
w Heartbreakingly beautiful river valley laced some picturesque hill
with vines producing sensational ports and reds. walking on Trips wx
(p449)
Alentejo & Algarve Beaches 4–6 Days
x Some of the world’s great beaches and towns with
Moorish heritage. (p459)






















447

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