Bali & Lombok

Bali & PDF





Lombok






















PDF ebook

Edition 16th Edition
Release Date July 2017
Pages 416
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easy-to-use How to use this book
4 sections

Look for these symbols to quickly identify listings:
1 Sights 4 Sleeping
r Beaches 5 Eating
PLAN YOUR TRIP 2 Activities 6 Drinking
Your planning tool kit C Courses 3 Entertainment
Photos & suggestions to help T Tours 7 Shopping
you create the perfect trip. Festivals Information
z 8
& Events & Transport
All reviews are ordered in our writers’ preference,
starting with their most preferred option. Additionally:
Eating and Sleeping reviews are ordered by price
range (budget, midrange, top end) and, within these
ON THE ROAD ranges, by writer preference.
Your complete guide
Expert reviews, easy-to-use
maps & insider tips.
These symbols and abbreviations give vital
information for each listing:
Must-visit recommendation
Sustainable or green recommendation
No payment required
% Telephone number f Ferry
UNDERSTAND h Opening hours j Tram
p Parking d Train
Get more from your trip
n Nonsmoking apt apartments
Learn about the big picture, to a Air-conditioning d double rooms
make sense of what you see.
i Internet access dm dorm beds
W Wi-fi access q quad rooms
s Swimming pool r rooms
v Vegetarian selection s single rooms
E English-language menu ste suites
c Family-friendly tr triple rooms
# Pet-friendly tw twin rooms
SURVIVAL GUIDE g Bus
Your at-a-glance reference For symbols used on maps, see the Map Legend.
Vital practical information
for a smooth trip.

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd





Bali &




Lombok

















North Bali
p243 Central Gili Islands
Mountains
West Bali p228 p298
p261 East Bali
Ubud & p193 Lombok
Around p271
p147
Kuta &
Seminyak South Bali &
p50 the Islands
p102

















Kate Morgan, Ryan Ver Berkmoes

PLAN ON THE ROAD
YOUR TRIP

Welcome to Bali KUTA & SEMINYAK . . 50 Tampaksiring . . . . . . . . . . . 187
& Lombok . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 Kuta & Legian . . . . . . . . . . . 52 South of Ubud . . . . . . . . 188
Bali & Lombok Map . . . . . .6 Seminyak . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75 Blahbatuh & Around . . . . 188
Bali & Lombok’s Top 20 . . .8 Kerobokan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88 Kutri . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 189
Need to Know . . . . . . . . . .18 Canggu & Around . . . . . . . . 94 Bona & Belega . . . . . . . . . 190
Batuan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 190
What’s New . . . . . . . . . . . 20 Sukawati & Puaya . . . . . . 190
If You Like… . . . . . . . . . . . .21 SOUTH BALI & Singapadu . . . . . . . . . . . . . 191
THE ISLANDS . . . . . 102
Month by Month . . . . . . . 23 Bukit Peninsula . . . . . . 104 Celuk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 192
Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 Jimbaran . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 104 Batubulan . . . . . . . . . . . . . 192
Bali & Lombok Around Jimbaran . . . . . . . 106
Outdoors . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32 Central Bukit . . . . . . . . . . . 107 EAST BALI . . . . . . . . 193
Travel with Children . . . . 42 Balangan Beach . . . . . . . . 107 Coast Road to
Kusamba . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 196
Regions at a Glance . . . . 46 Bingin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 109
Padang Padang . . . . . . . . .111 Gianyar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 197
Ulu Watu & Around . . . . . 112 Bangli . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 198
Ungasan & Around . . . . . . 114 Semarapura
(Klungkung) . . . . . . . . . . . 199
Nusa Dua . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 114 Around
Tanjung Benoa . . . . . . . . . 118 Semarapura . . . . . . . . . . . . 201
Sanur . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120 Sideman . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .202
Around Sanur . . . . . . . . 128 Pura Besakih . . . . . . . . . . .204
Pulau Serangan . . . . . . . . 128 Gunung Agung . . . . . . . . .205
Benoa Harbour . . . . . . . . . 128 Kusamba to
TROPICAL STUDIO / SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Denpasar . . . . . . . . . . . . 128 Padangbai . . . . . . . . . . . . . 207
Nusa Lembongan Padangbai . . . . . . . . . . . . . 207
& Islands . . . . . . . . . . . . 136 Padangbai to
BARONG-STYLE TEMPLE Nusa Lembongan . . . . . . . 136 Candidasa . . . . . . . . . . . . . 211
DECORATION
Nusa Ceningan . . . . . . . . . 142 Candidasa . . . . . . . . . . . . . 212
Nusa Penida . . . . . . . . . . . 143 Candidasa to
Amlapura . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 216
Amlapura . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 216
UBUD & AROUND . . .147 Around Amlapura . . . . . . . 217
Ubud . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 148 Tirta Gangga
Around Ubud . . . . . . . . . 183 & Around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 218
Bedulu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 183 Amed & the
Pejeng . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 184 Far East Coast . . . . . . . . . .220
Mas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 185 Tulamben . . . . . . . . . . . . . .224
DUDAREV MIKHAIL / SHUTTERSTOCK ©
North of Ubud . . . . . . . . 186 Tulamben to
Yeh Sanih . . . . . . . . . . . . . .226
Tegallalang . . . . . . . . . . . . 187
GILI TRAWANGAN P300

Contents




UNDERSTAND

CENTRAL Balian Beach . . . . . . . . . . .266 Bali & Lombok Today . . 320
MOUNTAINS . . . . . . 228 Jembrana Coast . . . . . . . . 267 History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 322
Gunung Batur Area . . . 229 Negara & Around . . . . . . .268 Local Life & Religion . . .331
Gunung Batur . . . . . . . . . .230 Belimbingsari
Around Gunung & Palasari . . . . . . . . . . . . .268 Food & Drink . . . . . . . . . 342
Batur Crater . . . . . . . . . . .232 Cekik . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .269 The Arts . . . . . . . . . . . . . 350
Around Danau Batur . . . .233 Gilimanuk . . . . . . . . . . . . . 270 Architecture . . . . . . . . . 362
Danau Bratan Area . . . . 235 Environment . . . . . . . . . 369
Bedugul . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .235 LOMBOK . . . . . . . . . .271
Candikuning . . . . . . . . . . .235 West Lombok . . . . . . . . . 274
Pancasari . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 237 Mataram . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 274
Danau Buyan & Around Mataram . . . . . . . 276
Danau Tamblingan . . . . . .238
Munduk & Around . . . . . .239 Lembar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 276
Gunung Batukau Southwestern
Peninsula . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 277
Area . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 240 SURVIVAL
The Antosari Road . . . . 242 Senggigi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 278 GUIDE
North & Central
Lombok . . . . . . . . . . . . . 283
NORTH BALI . . . . . . 243 Bangsal to Bayan . . . . . . .283 Directory A–Z . . . . . . . . 376
Yeh Sanih . . . . . . . . . . . . . .245 Senaru . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .284 Transport . . . . . . . . . . . . 386
Singaraja . . . . . . . . . . . . . .245 Sembalun Valley . . . . . . . .285 Health . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 393
Around Singaraja . . . . . . . 247 Gunung Rinjani . . . . . . . . .286 Language . . . . . . . . . . . . 398
Lovina . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 247 Tetebatu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .288
West of Lovina . . . . . . . . .253 South Lombok . . . . . . . . 289
Seririt & Around . . . . . . . .253 Praya . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .290
Pemuteran . . . . . . . . . . . . .254 Around Praya . . . . . . . . . .290
Banyuwedang . . . . . . . . . .258 Kuta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .290
Labuhan Lalang . . . . . . . .258 East of Kuta . . . . . . . . . . . .294 SPECIAL FEATURES
Bali Barat West of Kuta . . . . . . . . . . .295
National Park . . . . . . . . . .259 East Lombok . . . . . . . . . 297 Bali & Lombok’s
Best Beaches . . . . . . . . . 65
Labuhan Lombok . . . . . . . 297
WEST BALI . . . . . . . . 261 South of Top Five Local
Encounters . . . . . . . . . . 338
Pura Tanah Lot . . . . . . . . .263 Labuhan Lombok . . . . . . . 297
Pura Taman Ayun . . . . . . .263 Top Five Balinese
Treats . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .344
Cemagi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .263 GILI ISLANDS . . . . . 298
Marga . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .264 Gili Trawangan . . . . . . . . . .300 Top Five Art
Tabanan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .264 Gili Meno . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 310 Experiences . . . . . . . . . . 356
South of Tabanan . . . . . . .265 Gili Air . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 314
North of Tabanan . . . . . . .265

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
4




Welcome to


Bali & Lombok






The mere mention of Bali evokes
thoughts of a paradise. It’s more than
a place; it’s a mood, an aspiration, a
tropical state of mind.



Island of the Gods Bali’s Essence
The rich and diverse culture of Bali plays Yes, Bali has beaches, surfing, diving, and
out at all levels of life, from the exquisite resorts great and small, but it’s the essence
flower-petal offerings placed everywhere, of Bali – and the Balinese – that makes it so
to the processions of joyfully garbed locals, much more than just a fun-in-the-sun
shutting down major roads as they march to retreat. It is possible to take the cliché of
one of the myriad temple ceremonies, to the the smiling Balinese too far, but in real-
otherworldly traditional music and dance ity, the inhabitants of this small island are
performed island-wide. Almost everything indeed a generous, genuinely warm people.
has spiritual meaning. The middle of Bali There’s also a fun, sly sense of humour.
is dominated by the dramatic volcanoes of Upon seeing a bald tourist, many locals
the central mountains and hillside temples exclaim ‘bung ujan’, which means today’s
such as Pura Luhur Batukau, while the rain is cancelled – it’s their way of saying
tallest peak, Gunung Agung, is the island’s that the hairless head is like a clear sky.
spiritual centre.
One Island, Many Lombok & the Gilis
Destinations Almost as big as Bali, Lombok is the com-
pletely different island right next door.
On Bali you can lose yourself in the chaos of From its volcanic centre to idyllic beaches,
Kuta or the sybaritic pleasures of Seminyak it rewards travellers who want to explore.
and Kerobokan, surf wild beaches in the Many are drawn to mighty Gunung Rinjani,
south or just hang out on Nusa Lembon- Indonesia’s second-highest volcano. Riv-
gan. You can go family-friendly in Sanur or ers and waterfalls gush down its fissured
savour a lavish getaway on the Bukit Penin- slopes, while its summit – complete with
sula. Ubud is the heart of Bali, a place where hot springs and a dazzling crater lake – is
the culture of the island is most accessible, the ultimate trekker’s prize. In the south,
and it shares the island’s most beautiful rice you encounter one superb beach after
fields and ancient monuments with east and another. The fabled Gili Islands are three
west Bali. North and west Bali are thinly exquisite droplets of white sand sprinkled
populated but have the kind of diving and with coconut palms and surrounded by
surfing that make any journey worthwhile. coral reefs teeming with marine life.

5









CRYSTAL IMAGE / SHUTTERSTOCK ©






































Why I Love Bali & Lombok
By Ryan Ver Berkmoes, Writer
In 1993 I visited Bali for the first time. When I went through immigration, the officer glanced
at my passport and said in the sweetest voice possible: ‘Have a wonderful birthday on Bali.’
Who wouldn’t fall in love? I spent a lot of that trip slack-jawed with wonderment. I remember
dancers and musicians materialising from across the rice fields to perform in Ubud, I re-
member driving little back roads of east Bali and being unable to comprehend all the green.
Since then, these places – like me – have changed greatly, but their essence still evokes love.
For more about our writers, see p416


Above: Hindu procession in the lead up to Nyepi (p337)

› Bali & Lombok
Bali & Lombok

# \ Bajulmati
Pulau Menjangan
Amazing diving and
snorkelling (p257)
Java Pulau BALI
Tabuan LOMBOK
# \ Betekan
Prapat Agung
Selogiri Peninsula Pulau Bali & Lombok
# \ Menjangan
# \ Meneng Labuhan B A L I S E A
R Lalang Banyuwedang Pemuteran
# \ Ketapang Gunung # \ # \ # \ # Þ Lovina
Gilimanuk # \ Prapat Pura Seririt # \
Agung
R
Cekik # \ (310m) G Banyuwedang Pulaki Celukanbawang # \
G Musi
# \ Banyuwangi R (430m) G Merbuk (1224m) # \ # \ Pengastulen
G Kelatakan R (1388m) R Rangdu # \
(698m) G Sanglang R # ÷ Taman Nasional Mayong
(1004m) Bali Barat # \ Munduk
R R # \
(1305m) G Mesehe R
(1344m)
# \ Melaya G Patas
(1412m)
Selat
Pupuan
Bali
# \
Pujungan # \
Negara
# \ Mendoyo
# \
Perancak # Þ
Pura Gede # # \ Pura Medewi
Þ
Perancak Rambut # \
Siwi
Gili Trawangan Gili Islands Balian
Beautiful sunrises after Great diving in clear Beach
joyous nights (p300) waters (p298) # \
LOMBOK # \
Antosari
Lombok 0 0 20km
# e # e 0 0 10 miles
20 km
10miles
B A L I Ak ar Akar # \ Anyar
Gili
Gili
# \
S E A Bayan # \ Obel Obel Lawang
R
Lawang
# \
Gili
Gili
Gili Senaru # \ # \ Sayang Blantung Gili
# \
Sulat
Sulat
Gili Meno # \ Gondang # \ Sugian
Gili
Meno
Trawangan Gili G Rinjani
Trawangan
Gili #
Air \ Tanjung (3726m) # \ Sembalun
Air
Bangsal # \ R Lawang # \
R
Danau
# # \ \ Pemenang Segara Anak R Labuhan
G Sabiris G Nangi Pandang
#
÷
#
÷
#
÷
(2230m)
(2230m)
R (865m) Taman Nasional# (2230m)
Selat Senggigi # \ Gunung Rinjani # \ Labuhan
Lombok
# \ Plengkung Swela # \ Lombok
Ampenan # \ Cakranegara Kotaraja Anjani # \ Pringgabaya Gunung Rinjani
Mataram # \ # \ Mantang # \ # \ # \ # \ Selat A spectacular and
Kediri # \ # \ Kopang Masabagik Alas rewarding climb (p287)
Bangko Gili # \ Gerung Sakra # \ Timor
Gili
Bangko Gede # \ Praya # \ Labuhan Indian
Gede Lembar
# \ # \ Gunung Mujur Haji Ocean
Sekotong # \ Mareje # \
Pelangan # \ # \ # \ Tanjung Selong Blanak
Montongsapah # \ Selong # # Ekas Luar Lombok’s most perfect
Blongas # \ Blanak # \ # # # \ Tanjung beach (p296)
# \
Pengantap # \ # \ # \ Kuta # \ Kaliantan Ringgit
Mawun S U B A W A
I N D I A N O C E A N S U B A W A

# e 0 0 10miles
20km

Canggu ELEVATION
Great beaches, alluring
restaurants (p94) 2000m
1500m
1000m
700m
Ubud 500m
Sangsit Kubu tambahan Bali’s cultural heart (p148) 300m
200m
# Þ # \ # # # # \ # # Þ # \ Yeh Sanih
Pura Bej i i Pura # \ 100m
# ] (Sangsit) Maduw Pacung Teja kula 0
Singaraja Karang # \
# \ # Sawan Sambirenteng
# #
\
Sukasade # # # # # # \
Mas
G Penulisan Traditional woodcarving done
R (1745m ) # \ Tembok
Gitgi t with impressive skill (p185)
# \ G Catur Penu lisan n n # \
(2096m) Catur \ # G Batur Songan Tianyar
R # \ (1717m ) # \
Pura Ulun Kintam an i R # Toya
\
G Leso ng Þ Danu Bratan Batur # \ # \ B ung kah # \ Kubu
#
(1860m) (Candikunung )
R Cand ikuni ng R
# \ # \ Pela Pe nelokan # # \ # G Abang # \ Tulamben
G PohonR # \ ga
(2063m) Bedu gul (2152m)
G Agung Amed
G Batukau (3142m)
R (2276m) # \ Pacung R Culik # \ # \
# Þ Ka yuanbu a # \ Besaki h # Þ Pura Sambu # \ Aas
Pura Jatiluwih # \ # Þ (Gunung G Seraya
Luhur # \ # \ Petang Ka yubihi Pa mpat an Pura Agung) Tirta (1175m)
Batukau # \ # \ Besakih Gangga # \ R
# \ Penebel Pujung # \ Ta mpaksiri ng Re ndang # \ Muncan
# \ # \ # ] Amlapura
# # # # # # # Þ
# \ Payangan Bangli # # # \ # # # # Pura Kehen # \ Iseh # \ Ujung
(Bangli)
Marg a \ # # \ Sideman Tenganan
# \
Sangeh Bukit # \ Selat
# \ Peje ng Jambul # \ Candidasa Lombok
Ubud # \ # # # \ # Sidan Semarapura
# # Þ
Tabana n Mas # Pura # \ (Klungkung) # # \ Padangbai
Þ
# ] # \ Mengwi # \ Pusering # ] Gianyar # \
Batu Jagat Pura Goa
# \
Bolong # \ Batuan (Pejeng) Kusamba Lawah Seminyak
Beach Kediri # \ # \ Lebih Bali’s capital of glitz (p75)
Sempidi Celuk # \ # \ Sukawati
Ù # \
#
# \ Canggu
Batubulan # \ # \ Ketewel Kuta
ar
ar
Denpasar Nu sa Pura Dalem All-night clubbing and
Kerobokan # \ # # # # # # # # # ^ Selat Badung Lembongan Penetaran partying (p52)
Seminyak # \ Jungutbatu
# \ Sanur # \ Toyapakeh Ped # \ Sampalan
Lembongan # \ # Þ
Lemb
Legian # \ # \ Nusa # \ Karangsari
Kuta # \ Ceningan
Beno a Kuta Beach R # \ Semaya
Harbour # \ # Beno a Twelve kilometres of (529m)
Jimbaran \ # \ # # \ Ta njung sand and surf (p52) Nusa
Beno a Penida
# \ Bingin # \ Nu sa Dua Jimbaran
# Þ # \ Pecatu Beachside grills serve
Pura Luhur stunning seafood (p104) I N D I A N
Ulu Watu Bukit O C E A N
Peninsula Bukit Peninsula Beaches
A string of sandy pearls
(p104)
Pura Luhur Ulu Watu
Monkeys and temples
(p112)

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
8




Bali & Lombok’s
Top 20

9
Bali’s Processions Bukit Peninsula Beaches
There you are sipping a coffee at a A little plume of white sand rises out of
1 cafe in, say, Seminyak or Ubud, when 2 the blue Indian Ocean and fills a cove
there’s a crash of the gamelan and traffic below limestone cliffs clad in deep green
screeches to a halt as a crowd of elegantly tropical beauty. It sounds idyllic, and it is.
dressed people comes flying by bearing The west coast of the Bukit Peninsula in
pyramids of fruit, tasselled parasols and a south Bali is dotted with these very beach-
furred, masked Barong (mythical lion-dog es, such as Balangan Beach (p107), Bingin
creature) or two. It’s a temple procession, and Padang Padang. Families run surfer
disappearing as suddenly as it appeared, bars built on bamboo stilts over the tide,
leaving no more than a fleeting sparkle of where the only views are the breaks, just
gold and white silk and hibiscus petals in metres away. Grab a lounger and be lulled
its wake. Dozens occur daily across Bali. by the waves. Below: Balangan Beach PANAREOFOTOGRAFIA / GETTY IMAGES ©
















TROPICAL STUDIO / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

10
Serene Spas Diving
Whether it’s a total fix for the mind, Legendary Pulau Menjangan (p257)
3 body and spirit, or simply desire for 4 thrills, one tank after another. It offers
serenity, visitors to Bali spend many happy multiple types of diving around a protected
hours (sometimes days) being massaged, island renowned for its coral walls. And
scrubbed, bathed and blissed out. Some- that’s just one of Bali’s great dive sites. Un-
times all this attention to your well-being der the waves at Nusa Penida, you can feel
happens on the beach or in a garden – think small as a manta ray blocks out the sun’s
Ubud’s Taksu Spa (p157) – other times it’s glow overhead, its fluid movement causing
in stylish, even lavish, surroundings. The barely a disturbance in the surrounding wa-
Balinese massage techniques of stretching, terst. And just when you think your dive can’t
long strokes, skin rolling and palm-and- get more dramatic, you turn to find a 2.5m
thumb pressure result in an all-over feeling sunfish motionlessly hovering, checking you
of calm; it’s the perfect holiday prescription. out. Below bottom: Nusa Penida (p143)


3 THIERRY DEHOVE / SHUTTERSTOCK ©






PLAN YOUR TRIP Bali & lomBok’s Top 20














4 KRISTINA VACKOVA / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

11
5 MATTHEW MICAH WRIGHT / GETTY IMAGES © 6









YAVUZ SARIYILDIZ / SHUTTERSTOCK ©





7 PLAN YOUR TRIP Bali & lomBok’s Top 20










TUUL AND BRUNO MORANDI / GETTY IMAGES ©




Ubud Kuta’s Never- Selong Blanak
Famous in books and Ending Nights Southern Lombok’s
5 movies, the artistic It starts with styl- 7 coastline has a wild
heart of Bali exudes a com- 6 sh cafes and bars in savage beauty and few
i
pelling spiritual appeal. Seminyak, open-air places visitors, generating lots
The streets are lined with where everything seems of talk about the vast
galleries where artists, just that bit more beautiful tourism potential of the
both humble and great, amid the post-sunset glow region. When you set eyes
create. Beautiful perfor- and pulsing house beats. on pristine Selong Blanak
mances showcasing the Maybe you move down to beach (p296), you’ll ap-
island’s rich culture grace action at Double Six beach. preciate the hype. Enjoy
a dozen stages nightly. Mu- Later, the legendary clubs a perfect swath of sand
seums honour the works of Kuta draw you in, with where the swimming in
of those inspired here over international DJs spinning clear, turquoise-tinged
the years, while people their legendary sets to water is superb. At the rear
walk the rice fields to find packed dance floors. Some of the bay is a crescent
the perfect spot to sit in time before dawn, Kuta’s of powdery white sand; a
lotus position and ponder harder, rawer clubs such as dream of a beach that now
life’s endless possibilities. Sky Garden Lounge (p64) has the kinds of amenities
Ubud (p148) is a state of suck you in like black holes, that come with discovery.
mind and a beautiful state spitting you out hours later Other, as yet barely trod
of being. Above left: Ubud rice into an unsteady daylight, beaches, are nearby. Above
paddies shattered but happy. Above right bottom: Selong Blanak
right top: Kuta beach bar beach

12
8 AERIALGROM / SHUTTERSTOCK ©






















9 DUDAREV MIKHAIL / SHUTTERSTOCK ©


PLAN YOUR TRIP Bali & lomBok’s Top 20


















Surfing Bali Underwater Gilis
If it’s a month containing the letter ‘r’, Taking the plunge? There are few bet-
8 go east; during the other months, go 9 ter places to dive than the Gilis, encir-
west to fabled breaks like Padang Padang cled by coral reefs teeming with life such
(p34). Simplicity itself. On Bali you have as at Trawangan Wall (p301) and visited
dozens of great breaks in each direction. by pelagics such as cruising manta rays.
This was the first place in Asia where surfing Scuba diving is a huge draw – there are nu-
took off and, like the perfect set, it shows no merous professional schools and all kinds
signs of calming down. Surfers buzz around of courses taught (from absolute beginner
the island on motorbikes with board racks, to nitrox specialist). With easy access from
looking for the next great break. Waves beach to reef, snorkelling is also superb,
blown out? Another spot is just five minutes and you’re very likely to see turtles. Want
away. Don’t miss classic surfer hang-out to take snorkelling to the next level? Try
Balian Beach. Above top: Padang Padang freediving; it’s sweeping the Gilis.

13
10








BOGDANHODA / SHUTTERSTOCK ©












11 PLAN YOUR TRIP Bali & lomBok’s Top 20






JOYFULL / SHUTTERSTOCK ©














Luxe Stays Canggu’s Beaches
On an island that honours art and Canggu is more of an idea and re-
10 serenity, is it any wonder you’ll 11 ally less of a distinct place, given
find some of the world’s finest hotels that the area was all rice fields just a few
and resorts? From blissful retreats like years ago. But now it’s a label that denotes
Katamana (p89) on south Bali’s beauti- sandy fun and frolic on beaches such as
ful beach in Kerobokan or Seminyak to Batu Bolong (p96), pounding surf offshore
perches on cliffs above the dazzling white and nights you hope will never end at a
sands that dot the Bukit Peninsula, these fast-expanding collection of creative cafes
stylish hotels are as lovely outside as they and superb restaurants. Find your own
are luxurious inside. Further resorts by faves and make Canggu your Canggu. See
vaunted architects can be found in Ubud’s what cool new place opens just as you turn
river valleys and in remote idyllic coastal your back.
locations right round the island.

14
12 DAVIDNNP / SHUTTERSTOCK © 14 HEDGEHOG111 / SHUTTERSTOCK ©
















13 ARTUSH / SHUTTERSTOCK ©








PLAN YOUR TRIP Bali & lomBok’s Top 20






Jimbaran Seafood Snorkelling Bali’s Food
Enormous fresh Bali has oodles ’Oh goody!’ It’s
12 prawns marinated 13 of places where 14 virtually impossible
in lime and garlic and you can slip on fins and not to say this when you
grilled over coconut husks. mask and enter another step into a classic warung
Tick. A hint of post-sunset beautiful world. Swim a like Warung Teges (p176)
pink on the horizon. Tick. short distance from shore in Ubud for lunch to find
Stars twinkling overhead. and see the eerie ghost dozens of freshly made
Tick. A comfy teak chair of a sunken freighter dishes on the counter
settling into the beach at Tulamben (p224), or awaiting you. It shouldn’t
while your toes play in the hover a few metres over surprise that this fertile
sand. Tick. An ice-cold the marine life teeming island provides a profu-
beer. Tick. A strolling band around the beautiful reef sion of ingredients that
playing the Macarena. OK, wall at Pulau Menjangan. combine to create fresh
maybe not a tick. But the The mangroves of Nusa and aromatic dishes. Local
beachside seafood grills Lembongan lure a rainbow specialities such as babi
such as Warung Ramayana of fish that gather in profu- guling (roast suckling pig
(p106) in Jimbaran are a sion. Or simply make your that’s been marinated for
don’t-miss evening out, way into the calm waters hours in spices) will have
with platters of seafood off a beach such as Sanur you lining up again and
that arrived fresh that and see what darts off into again. Try lunch at one of
morning to the market just the distance. the excellent Balinese ca-
up the beach. fes in Denpasar.

15
15
Kuta Beach Balinese Dance
Tourism on Bali began here, and is The antithesis of Balinese mellow is
15 there any question why? A sweep- 16 Balinese dance, a discipline that de-
ing arc of sand curves from Kuta into the mands methodical precision. A performer
misty horizon northwest to Echo Beach. of the Legong, the most beautiful dance,
Surf that started far out in the Indian spends years learning minutely choreo-
Ocean crashes to shore in long symmetri- graphed movements from her eyeballs to
cal breaks. You can stroll the 12km of sand her toes. Each movement has a meaning
(p52), enjoying a foot massage and cold and the language flows with a grace that is
beer with thousands of your new best hypnotic. Clad in silk and ikat, the dancers
friends in the south, or find a hip hang-out tell stories rich with the very essence of
or even a plot of sand to call your own up Balinese Hindu beliefs and lore. Every night
north. there are multiple shows in Ubud at venues
such as the Ubud Palace (p180). PLAN YOUR TRIP Bali & lomBok’s Top 20


15






LONGJON / SHUTTERSTOCK ©














16






CHEN WS / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

16
17 IRYNA RASKO / SHUTTERSTOCK © 18 MATTHEW MICAH WRIGHT / GETTY IMAGES ©


























PLAN YOUR TRIP Bali & lomBok’s Top 20








Pura Luhur Ulu Sunrise over Hiking Rinjani
Watu Trawangan Glance at a map of
Just watch out for If you think Gili 19 Lombok and you’ll
17 the monkeys. One of 18 Trawangan is a see that virtually the entire
Bali’s holiest temples, Pura stunner by daylight, you northern half of the island
Luhur Ulu Watu (p112) is should see it at dawn after is dominated by the brood-
perched on tall cliffs in the a night of partying – if ing, magnificent presence
southwest corner of the you’re still seeing. You of Gunung Rinjani (p286),
island. In the 11th century won’t find slick decor, at 3726m Indonesia’s
a Javanese priest first flashy visuals, door staff second-highest volcano.
prayed here, and the site and stiff entrance prices Hiking Rinjani is no picnic,
has only become holier at venues like Tir na Nog and involves planning,
since. Shrines and sacred (p309), where the parties hiring a guide and porters,
sites are strung along started as raves on the stamina and sweat. The
the edge of the limestone beach and still have a raw, route winds up the sides
precipice. Gaze across an unorganised spirit. Local of the great peak until you
ocean rippled by swells DJs normally spin hypnotic reach the rim of a vast
that arrive with metronom- tribal beats and superstar caldera, where there’s a
ic precision. Sunset dance DJs have been known to magnificent view of Rinja-
performances delight turn up and play unan- ni’s sacred crater lake (an
while those monkeys pa- nounced sets. important pilgrim site) and
tiently await a banana – or the smoking, highly active
maybe your sunglasses. mini-cone of Gunung Baru
below.

17
19 PLAN YOUR TRIP Bali & lomBok’s Top 20








MARVIN MINDER / SHUTTERSTOCK ©


























Seminyak 20
People wander
20 around Seminyak
(p75) and ask themselves JR-STOCK / SHUTTERSTOCK ©
if they are even in Bali. Of
course! On an island that
values creativity like few
other places, the capital
of glitz is where you’ll find
inventive boutiques run by
local designers, the most
eclectic and interesting
collection of restaurants,
and little boutique hotels
that break with the island
clichés. Expats, locals and
visitors alike idle away the
hours in its cafes, at ease
with the world and secure
in their enjoyment of life’s
pleasures.

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
18




Need to Know



For more information, see Survival Guide (p375)



Currency When to Go
Rupiah (Rp)

Language
Bahasa Indonesia and North Bali
Balinese GO year-round Gili Islands
GO year-round
#
Ubud
Lombok
Money # GO year-round GO year-round
ATMs are easy to find
South Bali
throughout Bali and GO year-round
you’ll find plenty of
places to exchange
money, also. Credit
cards are accepted at
more upmarket estab-
lishments.
Tropical climate, wet & dry seasons
Tropical climate, rain year-round
Visas
It’s easy to obtain visas
but if you’re hoping to
stay longer than 30 days
you may find it a hassle
to arrange.
Mobile Phones High Season Shoulder Low Season
Any modern mobile (Jul, Aug & Dec) (May, Jun & Sep) (Jan–Apr, Oct &
phone will work here Nov)
and you can buy cheap ¨ Accommodation ¨ Coincides with the
local SIM cards every- rates increase by best weather (drier, ¨ Deals everywhere,
where (from 5000Rp 50% or more. less humid). good airfares.
with no calling credit). ¨ Many hotels are ¨ You may find a ¨ Rainy season –
Data speeds of 3G and booked far ahead; good room deal, and though rainfall is
faster are the norm right the best restaurants last-minute bookings never excessive.
across Bali. need to be booked in are possible. ¨ Can do most
advance. ¨ Best time for activities except
Time Zone ¨ Christmas and many activities volcano treks.
Indonesia Central Time New Year are equally including diving.
expensive and
(GMT/UTC plus eight crowded.
hours)

19
Useful Websites Daily Costs Arriving in Bali &
Bali Advertiser (www.baliadver Budget: Less than Lombok
tiser.biz) Bali’s expat journal with US$80 Ngurah Rai International
insider tips and good columnists. ¨ Room at guesthouse or Airport A taxi to Kuta is
Bali Discovery (www.balidis homestay: less than US$50 80,000Rp, to Seminyak it’s
covery.com) Excellent weekly ¨ Cheap food and drink, 130,000Rp and to Ubud it’s
summary of news and features, meals: under US$5 300,000Rp.
plus hotel deals. Lombok International Airport
¨ Beaches: free
Bali Paradise (www.bali-parad (LOP; www.lombok-airport.
ise.com) Info and links. Midrange: US$80–250 co.id) Near Praya, this airport is
ever more busy. There is good
The Beat Bali (http://thebeat ¨ Room at midrange hotel: service to Bali and Java, with
bali.com) Comprehensive listings US$50–150 fewer services going east into PLAN YOUR TRIP NeeD TO KNOw
for nightlife, music and events. ¨ Great night out eating and Nusa Tenggara. Flights also
Coconuts Bali (http://bali. drinking: from US$20 serve the international hubs of
coconuts.co) Local news and ¨ Spa treatment: US$10–40 Singapore and Kuala Lumpur.
occasional features. You’ll find travel agents for
Top end: More than airline tickets in Kuta, Mataram
Lonely Planet (www.lonely US$250 and Senggigi.
planet.com/bali) Destination
information, hotel bookings, ¨ Room at top-end hotel or Getting Around
traveller forum and more. resort: over US$150
The best way to get around
Lombok Guide (www.thelombok ¨ Lavish evening out: over is with your own transport,
guide.com) Comprehensive site US$40 whether you drive, hire a driver
covering main areas of interest. ¨ Car and driver per day: or cycle. This gives you the flex-
US$60 ibility to explore places that are
Important otherwise inaccessible.
Numbers Opening Hours Car Small 4WDs can be rented
The international access code Typical opening hours are as for under US$30 a day. Other-
can be any of three versions; try follows: wise you can hire a car with a
all three. driver for US$60 a day.
Banks 8am to 2pm Monday to
Indonesia %62 Thursday, 8am to noon Friday, Motorbike Rent one for as little
country code 8am to 11am Saturday as US$5 a day.
International %001/008/ Government offices 8am to Public transport Small vans
call prefix 017 3pm Monday to Thursday, 8am called bemos are a cheap way of
Police %110 to noon Friday (although these getting around on fixed routes,
Fire %113 are not standardised) though most locals now just use
Medical %119 Post offices 8am to 2pm Mon- motorbikes. In Lombok public
Emergency day to Friday, longer in tourist transport is generally restricted
centres to the main routes; away
from these, you need a car or
Exchange Rates Restaurants & cafes 8am to motorbike, or to charter an ojek
10pm daily (motorcycle taxi).
Australia A$1 9900Rp Shops & services catering to Tourist shuttle bus Both
Canada C$1 10,000Rp visitors 9am to 8pm or later economical and convenient.
Japan ¥100 12,100Rp daily Taxi Fairly cheap, but only use

New NZ$1 9500Rp Bluebird Taxis to avoid scams.
Zealand
UK UK£1 16,800Rp
US US$1 13,400Rp
For much more on
For current exchange rates, see getting around,
www.xe.com. see p387

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
20




What’s New








New Canggu Restaurants Echo Beach Bars
Along the lanes snaking through the re- Almost overnight, beer joints appeared
maining rice fields of Canggu, hip and nifty west of Echo Beach towards Pererenan
new cafes are opening; typical is Shady Beach. These barely there bamboo beach
Shack, with its uberfresh veggie fare. (p100) bars are perfect for sunset; Sand Bar some-
times goes till dawn. (p101)
Seminyak Village
Bali’s shopping wonderland got its first Kura-Kura Bus
enclosed air-con mall. It earns points for This Japanese-run tourist shuttle offers
presenting a modest front to the street and routes across south Bali and Ubud; some
for low-cost atrium stalls leased to young schedules run frequently enough to allow
local designers. (p86) hop-on, hop-off exploring. (p389)
Nusa Penida Tourism Boats from Serangan
Tourism to the most mysterious corner Because of traffic to Padangbai on east
of Bali has really started to take off. New Bali roads, more fast boats to Lombok and
guesthouses and cool cafes are cropping the Gilis are leaving from Serangan, mid-
up in coastal Ped. (p144) way between Kuta and Sanur. This is a real
time-saver. (p128)
Katamana
With its daring design and pure fun ethos, Mandapa, a Ritz-Carlton Reserve
Potato Head beach club forever changed After several years without new hotels,
how people relate to Bali’s beaches. Its Ubud’s lush Sungai Ayung river valley has
companion resort, Katamana, now takes a major addition in this stunning and dar-
bold design even further. (p89) ingly designed luxury resort. Watch out
Four Seasons and Amandari. (p172)
Bukit Resorts
The Bukit Peninsula’s southern limestone South Lombok Beaches
cliffs soar over luscious cove beaches near As roads east and west from Kuta improve,
Ungasan. Now it seems each will have its the world-class beaches of south Lombok
own resort, such as the Kempinski set to become ever-more accessible.
open in 2017. (p114)
West Lombok Islands
Bali Asli Now routinely called the ‘new Gilis’, the tiny
Noted Oz chef Penelope Williams opened islands off the coast of southwest Lombok
this fine restaurant and cooking school just offer the low-key, white-sand experience
outside of Amlapura. (p217) that the other Gilis were once famous for.
Nonstop Action
Bali is drawing more and more airline For more recommendations
and reviews, see lonelyplanet.
services. Long-haul goliath Emirates now com/Traveller Destination
flies from Dubai, with worldwide connec-
tions. (p386)

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
21




If You Like…








Pura Luhur Batukau One of along the sand going west; some
Beaches Bali’s most important temples have raves. (p100)
While there’s no shortage is a misty, remote place that’s Gili Trawangan The place for
steeped in ancient spirituality.
of beaches, ones with white (p241) pounding beats and party vibes
sand aren’t as common as just about every night (and day!)
you’d think – most are some Pura Taman Ayun A beautiful of the week. (p300)
variation of tan or grey. moated temple with a royal past;
part of Unesco’s recognition of
Seminyak Beach This wide Bali’s rice traditions. (p263)
stretch of sand boasts great surf Culture
for both swimmers and surfers. Pura Pusering Jagat One of
Don’t miss sunset. (p78) the famous temples at Pejeng, The island’s creative her-
which date to the 14th-century itage is everywhere you
Balangan Beach This curving empire that once flourished look and there’s nothing
white-sand beach is ramshackle here. (p185) manufactured about it.
in an endearing way and perfect Dance and musical perfor-
for a snooze or booze. (p107) Pura Luhur Ulu Watu As
important as it is popular, this mances are the result of an
Padang Padang Beach Great temple has sweeping views, ever-evolving culture with
white sands and some of the sunset dance performances and a legacy that’s centuries
best surfer-watching you’ll find monkeys. (p112) long.
anywhere. (p111)
Dance Rigid choreography
Nusa Lembongan Beaches and discipline are hallmarks
Little coves of dreamy sand of beautiful, melodic Balinese
you can walk between, plus fab Nightlife dance, which no visitor should
swimming. (p136) Nightclubs on Bali draw miss. (p352)
Gili Island beaches The acolytes from across South- Gamelan The ensemble orches-
beaches are uniformly gorgeous, east Asia. tra creates its unforgettable
with white sand, great snorkel- Seminyak Beach clubs where music with bamboo and bronze
ling and a timeless traveller vibe. the cocktails somehow taste instruments at performances
(p298) better when you can hear the and celebrations. (p352)
Selong Blanak An idyllic surf. (p75) Painting Balinese and Western
Lombok bay and beach that Kuta All raw energy and a mad styles merged in the 20th cen-
astounds first-time visitors. mix of party-goers enjoying tury and the results are often
(p296) every aspect of Bali hedonism. extraordinary. See some of the
(p52) best in Ubud’s museums. (p353)
Legian Beach bars and Offerings Artful and ubiquitous,
Temples beanbags on the sand where the you’ll discover them at your
hotel room door and in huge
With more than 10,000 glow of sunset segues into the stacks at temples. (p340)
twinkle of stars. (p52)
temples, Bali has such a
variety that you can’t even Echo Beach A necklace of
categorise them. ephemeral beach bars runs

22
Great Food
Enjoy superb dining on CLARA MONITTO ©
cuisines from around the
world, or go local with the
subtle flavours of Balinese
cuisine.
Seminyak The spot with the
greatest variety of top restau-
rants – on a 10-minute stroll you
can wander the world. (p75)
Kerobokan The go-to area for
the hottest and best restaurants,
plus some superb Balinese
warungs. (p88)
Canggu Bali’s liveliest spot sees
interesting cafes and restaurants
opening every week. (p96)
PLAN YOUR TRIP If YOU LIkE…
Denpasar Local cafes serve
exceptional Balinese and Indo-
nesian food in simple surrounds.
(p128)
Ubud A profusion of creative
restaura nts and cafes, many
organic and healthful, all deli-
cious. (p148)


Shopping
Some consider Bali a great
destination for shopping; for
others it’s their destiny.
Seminyak Sometimes it seems
everyone in Seminyak is a
designer; the reality is that many
actually are. (p75) ALEKSANDAR TODOROVIC / SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Kerobokan A continuation of
stores north of Seminyak sees
places offering everything from
housewares to fashion. (p88)
Canggu Soon to be Bali’s
shopping hot spot as low rents
(at least for now!) and creative
energy draw designers. (p96)
Ubud Excellent for handicrafts,
art, books, yoga wear and more.
(p148)
South of Ubud Artisan craft
shops abound in towns like Mas; Top: Revolver cafe in Seminyak (p85)
look for the don’t-miss market in Bottom: Gili Meno (p310)
Sukawati. (p188)

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
23




Month by Month








around Nyepi when even Narmada, near Mataram
TOP EVENTS many non-Balinese flee the on Lombok, their jockeys
Nyepi, March or April silence. clinging tight. It’s as dan-
Galungan & Kunin- z Nyepi (Day of gerous, muddy and fun as
gan, varies Silence) it sounds. Held early in the
month.
Indonesian Independ-
ence Day, 17 August Bali’s major Hindu festival,
Nyepi celebrates the end of
Ubud Writers & Read- the old year and the start of
ers Festival, October the next. It’s marked by in- June
Bali Arts Festival, activity – a strategy to con-
June to July vince evil spirits that Bali is The airport is getting
uninhabited so they’ll leave busier, but much of what
the island alone for another makes May a good month
year. (p337) also applies in June.
February Crowds begin at the Bukit
breaks.
The rainy season pours
on and the island start April z Bali Arts Festival
to hum again after the The premier event on Bali’s
January pause following The islands dry out cultural calendar. Based at
the holiday high season. after the rainy season the Taman Wedhi Budaya
Accommodation bargains and there’s a small but arts centre in Denpasar, the
abound. noticeable uptick in
visitors. This is another festival is a great way to see
z Nyale Festival month when insiders traditional Balinese dance
and music, as village-based
The ritual harvesting of recommend visiting. groups compete fiercely for
nyale (wormlike sea fish) z Bali Spirit local pride. Held mid-June
takes place on Seger Beach to mid-July. (p131)
near Lombok’s Kuta. The Festival
evening begins with poetry A hugely popular yoga, Lebaran Topat
readings, continues with dance and music festival Held during the seven
gamelan performances and from the people behind the days after the end of the
carries on until dawn, when Yoga Barn in Ubud. There fasting month (Idul Fitri;
the nyale start appearing. are more than 100 work- Ramadan) in the Islamic
Can also be held in March. shops and concerts, plus a calendar, Lebaran Topat is
market and more. It’s usu- a Sasak ceremony thought
ally held in early April but to be unique to west Lom-
March may begin in late March. bok. Relatives gather in
(p162)
The rainy season is ending cemeteries to pour water
over family graves, and add
and there’s a lull in the 1 Malean Sampi offerings of flowers, betel
crowds – this is low season Yoked buffalo race over leaves and lime powder.
for tourism, especially waterlogged earth in

24
year. Book your room and
July tables far in advance and October
After August, July is the expect crowds. Skies darken more often
second-busiest month z Indonesian with seasonal rains, but
for visitors to Bali. Don’t Independence Day mostly the weather is
expect to have your pick pleasant. Outside of Ubud,
of places to stay, but do Celebrated across Indo- crowds are few.
plan to enjoy the energy of nesia, 17 August is the
crowds on holiday. day Indonesia’s independ- z Ubud Writers &
ence from the Dutch was Readers Festival
z Bali Kite Festival declared in 1945. Legions Scores of writers and read-
In south Bali scores of kites of school kids march ers from around the world
soar overhead much of the with great enthusiasm on in a celebration of writing –
year. Often huge (10m-plus), Bali’s main roads. Traffic is especially that which touch-
they fly at altitudes that snarled (as it is days before es on Bali. Each year there is
worry pilots. There’s a spir- for rehearsals) and lots of a theme and famous authors
itual connection: the kites fireworks are shot off. whose works address the
urge the gods to provide 2 Surf Contests topic attend. (p162)
abundant harvests. During
this festival the skies fill The exact names and spon-
with huge creations. sorships change every year
but you’ll find top interna- November
PLAN YOUR TRIP MoNth by MoNth
tional surf contests being It’s getting wetter, but not
August held throughout August so wet that you can’t enjoy
down at Padang Padang
The busiest time on Bali Beach. Peak tourist season the islands to the fullest.
Usually a quiet month
sees an ever-increasing coincides with peak wave crowd-wise, you can find
number of visitors each season. accommodation bargains.
z Perang Topat
GALUNGAN & KUNINGAN This ‘rice war’ on Lombok
takes place at Pura Lingsar
One of Bali’s major festivals, Galungan celebrates outside Mataram and in-
the death of a legendary tyrant called Mayadenawa. volves a costumed parade,
During this 10-day period, all the gods come down to and Hindus and Wektu
earth for the festivities. Barong (mythical lion-dog Telu pelting balls of ketupat
creatures) prance from temple to temple and village (sticky rice) at each other.
to village, and locals rejoice with feasts and visits Can be held in December.
to families. The celebrations culminate with the
Kuningan festival, when the Balinese say thanks and
goodbye to the gods.
Every village in Bali celebrates Galungan and December
Kuningan in grand style, and visitors are welcome to Visitors rain on Bali ahead
join in. of the Christmas and New
The 210-day wuku (or Pawukon) calendar is used Year holidays. Hotels and
to determine festival dates. The calendar uses 10 restaurants are booked out
types of weeks that are between one and 10 days
long, which all run simultaneously, and the intersec- and everybody is busy.
tion of the various weeks determines auspicious 1 Peresean
days. Dates for future Galungan and Kuningan cel-
ebrations are as follows: Martial arts, Lombok-style.
YEAR GALUNGAN KUNINGAN Competitors, stripped to
the waist, spar with sticks
2017 5 Apr & 1 Nov 15 Apr & 11 Nov and cowhide shields. The
2018 30 May & 26 Dec 9 Jun winner is the first to draw
2019 22 Jul 5 Jan & 3 Aug blood. It’s held annually in
Mataram late in the month.

25









TROPICAL STUDIO / SHUTTERSTOCK ©













PLAN YOUR TRIP MoNth by MoNth






















Top: Dancers in
traditional costume at
the Bali Arts Festival
(p131)
Bottom: Bali Kite TROPICAL STUDIO / SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Festival (p124)

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
26




Itineraries









JAVA
B A L I S E A
Pulau
Menjangan
# • Pemuteran
# •
É
Munduk
É
# • Gunung Gili
É
S E L AT É Jatiluwih Kawi Islands
# •
•
B A L I Pura Luhur # • # # • BALI
Batukau É É É É Padangbai # f
# • Ubud # • LOMBOK
Canggu # Kerobokan S E L AT
•
# • L O M B O K
# • Seminyak
Nusa
Kuta # • Penida S E L AT
A L A S
I N D I A N SUMBAWA
O C E A N
2 Bali & the Gilis
WEEKS
See an incredible cross-section of Bali and enjoy the most popular parts of a Bali trip,
including the Gili Islands.
Start your trip in Seminyak, which has the best places to go out for a meal or a drink
or to buy a new frock. Allow at least three days to experience the refined charms of Ker-
obokan, the beachy pleasures of Canggu and the wild nights of Kuta. Once you’re sat-
ed, head north, driving through the rice terraces of Jatiluwih and on to Pura Luhur
Batukau, a holy temple up in the clouds. Head northwest to the mellow beach resorts at
Pemuteran, from where you can snorkel or scuba Bali’s best dive site at Palau Menjan-
gan. Next, driving east inland, stop in Munduk for some hiking to remote waterfalls.
Carry on via Candikuning to Ubud, the cultural centre of Bali. Nights of dance and
culture are offset by days of walking through the serene countryside. Do a day trip to
the ancient monuments at Gunung Kawi. Then head down to the cute little port town
of Padangbai and catch a fast boat to the Gili Islands. Wander the islands, enjoy the
pulsing nightlife of Gili T and go snorkelling to spot a turtle.

27




B A L I S E A


Munduk # • É Gunung Gili
# • Batukau # • Gunung Islands Sembalun
•
Pura Luhur # Agung # • Gunung Valley
Batukau É BALI É É Rinjani # # •
•
Balian Beach # É # • LOMBOK
•
É # f
Denpasar É S E L AT PLAN YOUR TRIP ItInerarIes
# • # • # • # f L O M B O K É É
JAVA Canggu É É Sanur # • # • Nusa S E L AT
•
Bingin # Nusa Pendida A L A S
Lembongan
# •
Kuta SUMBAWA
I N D I A N O C E A N
3
WEEKS Total Bali & Lombok

You’ll visit six islands and countless beaches on a trip that takes you to the most interest-
ing sites and places across Bali, Lombok and the Gilis.
Begin your trip at Bingin. Settle back in the sand and let the jet lag vanish. Then
move to Canggu for Bali’s hippest scene. Transit through Denpasar for a purely Ba-
linese lunch and head up the hill to Ubud to get a full taste of Balinese culture. Next,
tackle Gunung Agung, the spiritual centre of the island. Start early to reach the top,
and take in the views before the daily onslaught of clouds and mist.
Having climbed Bali’s most legendary peak, head west to the village of Munduk,
which looks down to the north coast and the sea beyond. Go for a walk in the area and
enjoy waterfalls, truly tiny villages, wild fruit trees and the sinuous ribbons of rice pad-
dies lining the hills. Then head south to the wonderful temple of Pura Luhur Batukau
and consider a trek up Bali’s second-highest mountain, Gunung Batukau. Recover with
some chill-out time on popular Balian Beach, just west.
Next, bounce across the waves from Sanur to Nusa Lembongan, the island hiding
in the shadow of Nusa Penida. The latter is visible from much of the south and east –
it’s almost unpopulated and makes a good day trip. Take in the amazing vistas from its
cliffs and dive under the waves to check out the marine life.
Head to the Gili Islands on the direct boat from Nusa Lembongan for more tranquil
time circumnavigating the three islands above and below the idyllic sapphire waters
fringing them. Take a boat to Senggigi, but ignore the resorts and head south. Still off
the beaten path, the south coast near Lombok’s Kuta has stunning beaches and surf-
ing to reward the intrepid. The seldom-driven back roads of the interior will thrill the
adventurous and curious, with tiny villages where you can learn about the amazing local
handicrafts. Many of these roads lead up the flanks of Gunung Rinjani, the volcanic
peak that shelters the lush and remote Sembalun Valley. Trekking from one village to
the next on the rim can take days but is one of Bali and Lombok’s great walks.

28 PLAN YOUR TRIP ItInerarIes JON CHICA / SHUTTERSTOCK ©
















































Top: Ubud (p148)
Bottom: Pura Tanah
Lot (p263)




NAUGHTYNUT / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

29


Pulau B A L I S E A
Menjangan
# • # Pemuteran
f
É
# • Lovina É
# •
É É
É
Pura Luhur Tulamben # • Amed
Coast
É
# • Batukau # •
Antosari É # •
Road # • Jatiluwih # • É
Tirta Gangga
BALI É PLAN YOUR TRIP ItInerarIes
# • # •
Ubud É
É Padangbai
Denpasar
Nusa
Canggu # É # • Lembongan
•
# • # • É # f # •
É
JAVA Kerobokan É É Sanur
Bingin
# •
# • É É
# •
Pura Luhur
Ulu Watu
3
WEEKS Bali at a Slow Pace
Find accommodation close to the beach in Kerobokan. Be sure to get to the trendy
restaurants and cafes of Canggu before you leave this part of south Bali behind. Maybe
you can learn how to surf, or at least brush up on your skills, before you head south to
Bingin and its groovy cliff-side inns overlooking fab surfing. Make the short drive down
to Bukit Peninsula’s spiritual centre (and monkey home) Pura Luhur Ulu Watu.
Take a trip through Denpasar and stop at the excellent local restaurants and mu-
seum. Next, Bali’s ancient rice terraces will exhaust your abilities to describe green. Sam-
ple these in a drive up to the terraces of Jatiluwih followed by the lyrical Pura Luhur
Batukau. Make your way over the mountains via the Antosari Road, pausing at a
remote hotel on the way. Head west to Pemuteran where the hotels and resorts define
relaxation. Dive or snorkel nearby Pulau Menjangan in Bali Barat National Park. It’s
renowned for its coral and sheer 30m wall.
Lovina is a good break on a route around the coast to Tulamben, where scores of
people explore the shattered hulk of a WWII freighter underwater. Get some serious chill
time on the Amed Coast before the short jaunt to Tirta Gangga and hikes through rice
fields and up jungle-clad hills to remote temples. Continue to Padangbai. This enjoy-
able port town is an ideal place to hang out for a couple of days before you take back
roads to Ubud. Find your favourite cafe and let the world wander past, or rid yourself of
travel kinks at a spa. You might consider staying at one of the iconic family homestays,
taking gentle walks through rice fields by day and marvelling at dance performances at
night.
When you’re ready and rested, get a fast boat from Sanur to Nusa Lembongan. This
little island has its own buzz, with a string of hotels – from basic to semi-posh – lining its
sands. It’s a timeless travellers’ scene with a backdrop of excellent surfing and splendid
snorkelling and diving.

30




Sideman
Road
Sideman •
#
Road Pejeng
•
# É
Ubud #• •
#
É
Ubud #• Semarapura • É • É
#
#
#
• • Mas Gianyar •
#
#
Mas É É
• É • Semarapura
#
#
S E L AT Lebih
Pura
#
•
Canggu Kerobokan É Masceti É L O M B O K
É
• • Kerobokan É Sukawati
#
#
#
•
É
• S E L AT Denpasar É
#
Seminyak É É B A D U N G É • É •
#
#
S E L AT
Seminyak É # Sanur B A D U N G
•
Jimbaran
Bay É
•
# Jimbaran NUSA
Ulu Watu É Bukit TENGGARA
# Peninsula • BARAT
•
#
PLAN YOUR TRIP ItInerarIes
Jimbaran
Bukit
Peninsula
1
1
WEEK Best of Bali WEEK Bali Day Trips
Seven days will fly by on this trip which This is for the traveller who wants to un-
covers Bali’s best. pack only once, seeing what’s possible on
Start at a beachside hotel in Seminyak, Bali during a series of relaxed day trips.
Kerobokan or Canggu; shop the streets Base yourself at a beachside hotel in Sa-
and spend time at the beach. Enjoy a sea- nur. In between your days out, soak up the
food dinner on Jimbaran Bay as part of a mellow beach vibe and let your cares float
day trip to the monkey-filled temple at Ulu away at a spa.
Watu. Day trip one starts with the short drive
In the east, take the coast road to wild to the markets and museums of Den-
beaches like the one near Pura Masceti, pasar, followed by a visit to the shops of
followed by the well-mannered royal town Seminyak and Kerobokan. Finish up
of Semarapura with its ruins. Head north with a sunset seafood grill at Jimbaran.
up to breathtaking Sideman, which com- Day trip two heads to Ubud for a half-
bines rice terraces with lush river valleys day strolling the streets, looking at shops,
and cloud-shrouded mountains. Then go galleries and museums. Take different
west to Ubud, the crowning stop on any routes there and back so you can enjoy the
itinerary. temples of Pejeng, the carvers of Mas and
To spoil yourself, stay in one of Ubud’s the village market at Sukawati.
many hotels with views across rice fields Day trip three follows the wave-tossed
and rivers. Sample the offerings at a spa be- volcanic beaches along the east coast. Stop
fore you try one of the myriad great restau- at Lebih, which has a temple and mica-in-
rants. Bali’s rich culture is most celebrated fused glittering sand. Go inland to the tem-
and most accessible in Ubud and you’ll be ple ruins and market at Semarapura, then
captivated by nightly dance performances. head north along beautiful Sideman. Next,
Check out local craft studios, including the loop west and head back down through the
woodcarvers of Mas. Hike through the sur- tidy regional centre of Gianyar, where you
rounding rice fields to river valleys, taking a can check out traditional fabric showrooms
break in museums bursting with paintings. and feast at the night market.

31


B A L I S E A



Senaru Gili
• Trawangan
#É
•
BALI # # Gunung Rinjani • Gili Meno
#
•
R Sire É #
•
É Gili Air
•
#
S E L AT Tetebatu #• É
L O M B O K LOMBOK
Gili PLAN YOUR TRIP ItInerarIes
Gede É S E L AT
• A L A S É
#
Selong #• É Kuta
Blanak É • SUMBAWA
# #•
Gerupuk É
I N D I A N O C E A N
2 Lombok in Two 1 Gili Islands in One
WEEKS Weeks WEEK Week
Lombok is all about the great outdoors, These three little dots of white sand off
from its incredible beaches to its iconic Lombok can easily occupy your entire trip,
volcano. with their top-class options for diving,
Kick off in gorgeous Kuta and spend a lazing, partying and hanging out on the
day or two finding the perfect beach. East beaches.
or west of town there are a dozen or so The ideal place to get to grips with island
bays to choose from: magnificent Selong life is Gili Air, where the main beachfront
Blanak is just one. While you’re here, it strip is perfect tropical lounging territory.
would be rude not to sample the fabled You can while away a day or two doing
south Lombok surf – tiny Gerupuk is an nothing but chilling with a book, taking a
excellent place to either take a lesson or cooling dip, snorkelling the offshore coral
hitch a boat ride to an epic break. Not far and feasting on inexpensive fresh seafood.
away, tranquil southwest Lombok is ideal Next up is Trawangan, where there’s
for more aqua action; swim in sheltered much more action. The perfect day here
waters or explore the dozen or so islands could start with a morning dive at a site
by boat. Tiny Gili Gede makes a perfect such as Shark Point, followed by a healthy
base. lunch and an afternoon snooze. Then take
Sacred Gunung Rinjani is up next. You a gentle stroll round the sandy lanes of the
can explore its foothills from the rustic island, slipping in a sunset cocktail on the
base of Tetebatu, or go the whole hog and west coast. After dinner, feel the beat at one
trek from Senaru to the crater rim, the of Trawangan’s parties.
sublime crater lake or the summit itself The final stop is Gili Meno, where, once
(depending on your time, energy and com- you’ve secured the perfect place to stay
mitment level). Just don’t miss the beauti- (including at some new upscale choices),
ful Sembalun Valley. Finish off with a stay there’s little to do except ponder the sheer
at one of the quietly luxurious resorts on desert-isle-ness of the place. If you can drag
the white beaches of Sire. yourself away from the beach, you can go
egret-spotting on the inland lake.

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
32





Plan Your Trip
Bali & Lombok


Outdoors



Bali is an incredible place to get outside and play. In its waters
there’s world-class diving and some of the world’s best surfing.
On land, hikes abound through rice fields, mountain lakes and up
volcanoes.


Best Outdoor
Adventures Surfing
Top Surfing Surfing kick-started Bali tourism in the
1960s, and it’s never looked back. Many
World famous Ulu Watu, which every serious Balinese have taken to surfing, and the
surfer needs to tackle once, and all-round great grace of traditional dancing is said to in-
Batu Bolong. fluence their style.
Top Diving & Snorkelling Where to Surf: Bali
Spectacular Pulau Menjangan, whether you’re just
drifting or following a wall; Tulamben’s sunken Swells come from the Indian Ocean, so the
WWII freighter, and its snorkelling and diving from surf is on the southern side of the island
shore. and, strangely, on the northwest coast of
Nusa Lembongan, where the swell funnels
Top Hiking into the strait between there and the Bali
Munduk’s lush, spice-scented, waterfall-riven coast.
In the dry season (around April to
landscape; beautiful walks lasting from one hour September), the west coast has the best
to one day in Ubud and its rice-field surrounds; breaks, with the trade winds coming
Tirta Gangg’s emerald rice terraces, gorgeous in from the southeast; this is also when
views and temples.
Nusa Lembongan is at its best. In the wet
season, surf the eastern side of the island,
from Nusa Dua around to Padangbai. If
there’s a north wind – or no wind at all –
there are also a couple of breaks on the
south coast of the Bukit Peninsula.
Note that the best breaks almost always
have good beaches of the same name.
To reach the breaks, many will rent a
motorbike with a surfboard rack while
others will hire a surfboard-carrying-
capable car with a driver. Either option is
easily accomplished.

33
Balangan tide, try the tubes around Halfway Kuta
Follow Jl Pantai Balangan and its surfer (p53), probably the best place in Bali for
crash pads until you reach the parking beginners to practise. Start at the beach
area overlooking the Balangan beach cafes. breaks if you are a bit rusty, but treat even
Balangan (p107) is a fast left over a shal- these breaks with respect.
low reef, unsurfable at low tide, but good Further north, the breaks at Legian
at mid-tide with anything over a 4ft swell; Beach (p52) can be pretty powerful, with
with an 8ft swell, it’s magic. lefts and rights on the sandbars off Jl Mel-
asti and Jl Padma.
Balian For more serious stuff, go to the reefs
There are a few peaks near the mouth south of the beach breaks, about a kilo-
of Sungai Balian (Balian River; p266) in metre out to sea. Kuta Reef (p52), a vast
western Bali. The best break here is an stretch of coral, provides a variety of
enjoyable and consistent left-hander that waves. You can paddle out in around 20
works well at mid- to high tide if there’s minutes, but the easiest way to get there
no wind. Choose from guesthouses simple is by boat. The main break is a classic left- PLAN YOUR TRIP BalI & loMBok oUTdoorS
to luxe. hander, best at mid- to high tide, with a 5ft
to 6ft swell, when it peels across the reef
Batu Bolong and has a beautiful inside tube section.
North of Kerobokan, on the northern Medewi
extremity of the bay, Batu Bolong (often
called Canggu; p96) has a nice beach with Along the south coast of western Bali is a
light-coloured sand, many surfers and soft left called Medewi (p267). It’s a point
a cool party scene. An optimum size for break that can give a long ride right into
Batu Bolong is 5ft to 6ft. There’s a good the river mouth. This wave has a big drop,
right-hander that you can really hook into, which fills up then runs into a workable in-
which works at high tide. side section. There’s accommodation here.
Bingin Nusa Dua
Accessible down a cliff, this spot (p109) can During the wet season, there are some fine
get crowded. It’s best at mid-tide with a 6ft reef breaks on the eastern side of the is-
swell, when it manufactures short but per- land. The reef off Nusa Dua (p115) has very
fect left-hand barrels. The cliffs backing consistent swells. The main break is 1km
the beach are lined with plenty of accom- off the beach to the south of Nusa Dua – go
modation options. past the golf course and look for the re-
maining shred of Gegar Beach up against
Impossibles the huge Mulia resort, where there will be
Just north of Padang Padang, this chal- some boats to take you out. There are lefts
lenging outside reef break (p111) has three and rights that work well on a small swell
shifting peaks with fast left-hand tube at low to mid-tide. Further north, in front
sections that can join up if the conditions of the Club Med, there is a fast, barrelling
are perfect. right reef break called Sri Lanka, which
works best at mid-tide.
Keramas & Ketewel Nusa Lembongan
These two beaches are northeast of Sanur. In the Nusa Penida group, this island is
They’re both right-hand beach breaks, separated from the southeast coast of Bali
which are dodgy at low tide and close by Selat Badung (Badung Strait).
out over 6ft. The surf is fairly consistent The strait is very deep and generates
year-round and you can night surf at the huge swells that break over the reefs off
Komune Bali surf resort.
the northwest coast of Lembongan. Ship-
Kuta Area wrecks, clearly visible from the beach, is
For your first plunge into the warm Indian the most popular break, a longish right
that gets a good barrel at mid-tide with a
Ocean, try the breaks at Kuta’s beach. At 5ft swell.
full tide, go out near the life-saving club at A bit to the south, Lacerations is a very
the southern end of the beach road. At low fast, hollow right breaking over a very

34
shallow reef – hence the name. Still further rial. There are other reefs further offshore
south is a smaller, more user-friendly left- and most of them are surfable.
hander called Playgrounds. Remember Hyatt Reef, over 2km from shore, has
that Lembongan is best with an easterly a shifty right peak that can give a great
wind, so it’s dry-season surfing. ride at full tide. The classic right is off the
Grand Bali Beach Hotel.
Padang Padang
Just Padang (p111) for short, this super- Serangan
shallow, left-hand reef break is off a very The development at Pulau Serangan (Tur-
popular beach and just below some rickety tle Island) has caused huge disruption
accommodation joints where you can crash on the southern and eastern sides of the
and watch the breaks. Check this place island; paradoxically, these changes to the
carefully before venturing out. It’s a very shape of the shore have made the surf here
demanding break that only works over much more consistent. In addition, the
about 6ft from mid- to high tide. causeway has made the island more acces-
If you can’t surf tubes, backhand or fore- sible, and several warung (food stalls) face
hand, don’t go out. After a ledgy take-off, the water, where waves break right and left
you power along the bottom before pull- in anything over a 3ft swell.
ing up into the barrel. Not a wave for the
faint-hearted and definitely not one to surf South Coast
when there’s a crowd (such as you’ll find The extreme south coast, around the end
during high-profile surf contests through- of the Bukit Peninsula, can be surfed any
out the year). time of the year provided there is a north-
erly wind, or no wind at all – get there very
Sanur early to avoid onshore winds. The penin-
Sanur Reef has a hollow wave with excel- sula is fringed with reefs, and big swells
PLAN YOUR TRIP BalI & loMBok oUTdoorS
lent barrels. It’s fickle and doesn’t even are produced, but access is a problem;
start until there is a 6ft swell, but anything the shoreline is all cliff (getting down to
over 8ft will be world-class, and anything Nyang-Nyang requires traversing more
over 10ft will be brown-boardshorts mate- than 500 steps).
Bali & Lombok Surf Breaks # e 0 0 5 miles
10 km
# \Medewi # \
# ç Rendang
Medewi BALI
# \ Sangeh Bukit Jambal # \
Antosari
# \
# \
Balian # ç Lalang- Ubud
# \
Linggah Gianyar
# \ Mengwi # \
Bali Sea
Lebih # \
Sempidi # \ # çKeramas
Gili Batubulan
# ç Trawangan # \ # \Ketewel Selat Badung
Denpasar # ç Nusa
# ç # ^ Ketewel Lembongan # ç
Tanjung LOMBOK Batu Jungutbatu : # \
Desert Bolong # \ Seminyak # ç Sanur Reef; : :
# ç # \Legian Hyatt Reef Nusa :
:
# Pelangan Kuta # ç # \ Kuta Ceningan :
\
Kuta Kuta Reef # ç
# \ Teluk
Mawi # ç # ç Gerupuk Bingin Benoa Benoa
Impossibles # ç # çBalangan
Padang Padang # ç # ç Bukit # \ Nusa Dua
# ç Nusa Dua
INDIAN Ulu Watu # ç # \ Peninsula
OCEAN Nyang-Nyang # ç Pecatu
South Coast # ç

35
Ulu Watu Gerupuk
When Kuta Reef is 5ft to 6ft, Ulu Watu This giant bay 6km east of Kuta boasts
(p113), the most famous surfing break in four surf breaks, so there’s always some
Bali, will be 6ft to 8ft with bigger sets. It’s wave action no matter what the weather or
way out on the southern extremity of the tide. Bumbang is extremely dependable:
bay and consequently picks up more swell best on an incoming tide, this right-hander
than Kuta. over a flat reef is good for all levels and can
Teluk Ulu Watu (Ulu Watu Bay) is a be surfed year-round. Gili Golong excels
great set-up for surfers – local boys will at mid- to high tide between October and
wax your board, get drinks for you and April. Don-Don needs a bigger swell to
carry the board down into the cave, which break but can be great at any time of year.
is the usual access to the waves. There are Finally Kid’s Point (or Pelawangan) only
popular cafes, and accommodation for breaks with big swells, but when it does
every budget. it’s barrels all the way. You need to hitch a
Ulu Watu has about seven different boat ride to each wave.
breaks. The Corner is straight in front of PLAN YOUR TRIP BalI & loMBok oUTdoorS
you to the right. It’s a fast-breaking, hol- Gili Trawang
low left that holds about 6ft. The reef shelf Much better known as a diving mecca,
under this break is extremely shallow, so Trawangan (p300) also boasts a surf spot
try to avoid falling head first. At high tide, off the island’s southwestern tip, offshore
the Peak starts to work. This is good from from, yes, the Surf Bar. It’s a quick right-
5ft to 8ft, with bigger waves occasionally hander that breaks in two sections, one
right on the Peak itself. You can take off offering a steeper profile, over rounded
from this inside part or further down the coral. It can be surfed all year long and is
line. It’s a great wave. best at high tide.
Another left runs off the cliff that forms
the southern flank of the bay. It breaks Mawi
outside this in bigger swells, and once it’s About 18km west of Kuta, the stunning
7ft, a left-hander pitches right out in front bay of Mawi has a fine barrelling left with
of a temple on the southern extremity. a late take-off and a final tube. It’s best in
Out behind the Peak, when it’s big, is a the dry season, from May to October, with
bombora (submerged reef) appropriately easterly offshore winds and a southwest
called the Bommie. This is another big swell. As there are sharp rocks and coral
left-hander and it doesn’t start operating underwater, and the rip tide is very fierce,
until the swell is about 10ft. On a normal take great care.
5ft to 8ft day, there are also breaks south
of the Peak. Tanjung Desert
Observe where other surfers paddle out Located in an extremely remote part of
and follow them. If you are in doubt, ask Lombok, Tanjung Desert is a legendary if
someone. It’s better having some knowl- elusive wave that has been voted the ‘best
edge than none at all. Climb down into the wave in the world’ by Tracks magazine.
cave and paddle out from there. When the Only suitable for very experienced surfers,
swell is bigger you will be swept to your it’s a fickle beast, in a region known for
right. Don’t panic – it is an easy matter to long, flat spells.
paddle around the white water from down On its day this left-handed tube can of-
along the cliff. Coming back in you have to fer a 300m ride, growing in size from take-
aim for the cave. When the swell is bigger, off to close-out (which is over razor-sharp
come from the southern side of the cave coral). Tanjung Desert only really performs
because the current runs to the north. when there’s a serious ground swell – May
to September offers the best chance. Wear
Where to Surf: Lombok & a helmet and boots at low tide.
Gili Islands
Lombok has some good surfing and the Equipment: Pack or Rent?
dearth of tourists means that breaks are A small board is usually adequate for the
generally uncrowded. smaller breaks, but a few extra inches on
your usual board length won’t go astray.

36

BEST DIVING & SNORKELLING SITES
Bali’s most spectacular diving and snorkelling locations draw people from near
and far. Skilled divers will enjoy the challenges of Nusa Penida (p143), as well as the
schools of manta rays and 2.5m sunfish, but novices and snorkellers will be in over
their heads. Spectacular 30m walls await off Pulau Menjangan (p257) and are good
for divers and snokellers of all skills and ages. Tulamben (p224), with its sunken
WWII freighter, is another site for both divers and snorkellers with good swimming
skills.


For the bigger waves – 8ft and upwards – Surf Goddess (p80) runs surf holidays for
you’ll need a ‘gun’. For a surfer of average women that include lessons and lodging in a posh
height and build, a board around the 7ft guesthouse in Seminyak.
mark is perfect.
If you try to bring more than two or
three boards into the country, you may
have problems with customs officials, Diving & Snorkelling
who might think you’re going to try to sell
them. With its warm water, extensive coral reefs
There are surf shops in Kuta and else- and abundant marine life, Bali offers excel-
where in south Bali. You can rent boards lent diving and snorkelling adventures.
of varying quality (from 50,000Rp to Reliable dive schools and operators all
100,000Rp per day) and get supplies at around Bali’s coast can train complete be-
most popular surf breaks. If you need re- ginners or arrange challenging trips that
PLAN YOUR TRIP BalI & loMBok oUTdoorS
pairs, ask around: there are lots of places will satisfy the most experienced divers.
that can help. Snorkelling gear is available near all
Other recommended equipment you the most accessible spots but it’s definitely
might bring: worthwhile bringing your own and check-
¨ Solid luggage for airline travel ing out some of the less-visited parts of the
coasts.
¨ Board-strap for carrying
¨ Tough shoes for walking down rocky cliffs Equipment
¨ Your favourite wax if you’re picky If you are not picky, you’ll find all the
¨ Wetsuit (a spring suit or shorty will be fine) equipment you need in Bali, the Gilis and
and reef booties Lombok (the quality, size and age of the
¨ Wetsuit vest, rashvest or other protective equipment can vary). If you bring your
cover from the sun, reefs and rocks own, you can usually get a discount on
your dive. Some small, easy-to-carry things
¨ Surfing helmet for rugged conditions (and to bring from home include protective
riding a motorbike) gloves, spare straps, silicone lubricant
and extra globes/bulbs for your torch/
Surf Operators flashlight. Other equipment to consider
Surf schools operate right off Kuta Beach in bringing:
Kuta and Legian and north to Batu Bolong Mask, snorkel & fins Many people bring these as
Beach. Kuta and the Bukit Peninsula have they are not too big to pack and you can be sure
long been where surfers ride waves and they will fit you. Snorkelling gear rents from about
crash; the Canggu area is also popular now. 30,000rp per day and is often shabby.
South Bali has some renowned board
shapers, including Kuta’s Luke Studer (p74) Tanks & weight belt Usually included with the
and Canggu’s Dylan Longbottom, who cost of a dive.
runs Dylan Board Store (p99). Thin, full-length wetsuit For protection against
Rip Curl School of Surf (p121) Works out of stinging animals and possible coral abrasions.
Sanur, teaches windsurfing and also has standup Bring your own if you are worried about size. If div-
paddle boards. ing off Nusa Penida, you’ll need a wetsuit thicker

37
than 3mm, as up-swells bring up 18°C water from Responsible Diving
the deep.
Bear in mind the following tips when
Regulators & BCVs Most dive shops have decent diving and help preserve the ecology and
ones. (BCVs are also known as BCds or buoyancy beauty of reefs:
control devices.) ¨ Never use anchors on reefs, and take care not
to run boats aground on coral.
Dive Operators ¨ avoid touching or standing on living marine
Major dive operators in tourist areas can organisms or dragging equipment across the
arrange trips to the main dive sites all reef.
around the islands. Distances can be long, ¨ Be careful with your fins. Even without
so it’s better to sleep relatively close to your contact, the surge from fin strokes near the reef
diving destination. can damage delicate organisms. don’t kick up
For a local trip, count on US$60 to clouds of sand, which can smother organisms.
US$100 per person for two dives, which ¨ Practise and maintain proper buoyancy
includes all equipment. Note that it is be- control. Major damage can occur from reef PLAN YOUR TRIP BalI & loMBok oUTdoorS
coming common to price in euros. collisions.
Wherever there is decent local diving on
Bali there are dive shops. Usually you can ¨ do not collect or buy coral or shells, or loot
count on some reefs in fair condition be- marine archaeological sites (mainly shipwrecks).
ing reachable by boat. Recommended sites ¨ Ensure that you take home all your rubbish
with shops include the following: and any other litter you may find as well. Plastics
¨ amed (p220) are a serious threat to marine life.
¨ Candidasa (p212) ¨ do not feed the fish.
¨ lovina (p247) ¨ Minimise your involvement with marine
¨ Nusa Lembongan (p136) animals. Never ride on the backs of turtles.
¨ Nusa Penida (p143)
¨ Padangbai (p207)
¨ Pemuteran (p254) Hiking & Trekking
¨ Sanur (p120) You could wander Bali for a year and still
¨ Tulamben (p224) not see all the islands have to offer, but
their small size means that you can nibble
Learn to Dive off a bit at a time, especially as day hikes
and treks are easily arranged. Guides can
If you’re not a qualified diver and you help you surmount volcanoes, while tour
want to try scuba diving in Bali, you have companies will take you to remote regions
several options, including packages that and emerald-green valleys of rice terraces.
include lessons and cheap accommodation In terms of what to pack, you’ll need good
in a pretty place. boots for mountain treks and solid hiking
sandals for walks.
COURSE DETAILS COST Where to Hike: Bali
Introductory/ Perfect for US$60-100
orientation novices to see if Bali is very walkable. No matter where
diving is for them you’re staying, ask for recommendations
Basic Three- or four-day US$300-400 and set off for discoveries and adventures.
certification limited courses Ubud, the Sideman area and Munduk are
for the basics; obvious choices. The adjoining lakes of
popular at resorts Danau Tamblingan and Danau Buyan are
open Water The international US$350-500 great places to explore and feature two
different groups of great local guides. Even
certification PadI standard, from busy Kuta or Seminyak, you can just
recognised head to the beach, turn right and walk
everywhere
north as far as you wish alongside the

38
amazing surf while civilisation seems to lake some 600m below the rim of the vast
evaporate. caldera.
For strenuous treks that verge on moun- Expert advice is crucial on the moun-
tain climbing, consider Gunung Agung or tain – people die on its slopes every year.
Gunung Batur. There are varying routes, You can organise explorations of Gunung
none of which take longer than a day. Bali Rinjani at Sembalun Valley, Senaru and
does not offer remote wilderness treks Senggigi.
beyond the volcano climbs and day trips
within Bali Barat National Park. For the Equipment
most part, you’ll make day trips from the You’ll need to provide any gear you’ll need
closest village, often leaving before dawn for your hike. Guides may have a few bits
to avoid the clouds and mist that usually of gear but don’t count on it. Depending on
blanket the peaks by mid-morning. No the hike, consider bringing the following:
treks require camping gear.
¨ Torch
Where to Hike: Lombok ¨ Warm clothes for higher altitudes (it can get
Gunung Rinjani draws trekkers from pretty chilly up there)
around the world. Besides being Indone- ¨ Waterproof clothes because rain can happen
sia’s second-tallest volcano, it holds cultur- at any time and most of the mountains are misty
al and spiritual significance for the various at the least
people of the region. And then there’s its ¨ Good hiking sandals, shoes or boots – you
stunning beauty: a 6km-wide cobalt blue definitely won’t find these items locally


HIKING HIGHLIGHTS
PLAN YOUR TRIP BalI & loMBok oUTdoorS
Bali
One of Bali’s great joys is hiking. You can have good experiences across the island, often
starting right outside your hotel. Hikes can last from an hour to a day.
LOCATION DETAILS
Bali Barat National Park remote, wilde scenery, wildlife
danau Buyan & danau Tamblingan Natural mountain lakes, few people, great guides
Gunung agung Sunrises and isolated temples
Gunung Batukau Misty climbs amid the clouds, with few people
Gunung Batur Hassles but other-worldly scenery
Munduk lush, spice-scented waterfall-riven landscape
Sideman area rice terraces, lush hills and lonely temples; comfy lodging
for walkers
Tirta Gangga rice terraces, gorgeous views, remote mountain temples
Ubud Beautiful walks from one hour to one day; rice fields and
terraces, river-valley jungles and ancient monuments

Lombok
Like the island itself, Lombok has walks and hikes that are often remote, challenging or
both.
LOCATION DETAILS
air Terjun Sindang Gila one of many waterfalls
Gilis Beach-bum circumnavigations
Gunung rinjani Superb for trekking; climb the 3726m summit then drop
into a crater with a sacred lake and hot springs
Sembalun Valley Garlic-scented hikes on the slopes of rinjani

39
Hiking Tour Operators flowers. The island’s back roads more than
Guides and agencies are available in vari- make up for the traffic-clogged streets of
ous areas such as Ubud, Gunung Agung the south.
and Tirta Gangga on Bali. In addition, Some people are put off cycling in a
there are Bali-wide agencies, including the tropical location, but when you’re riding on
following: level ground or downhill, the breeze really
moderates the heat.
Adventure & Spirit (%0853 3388 5598; www.
adventureandspirit.com; from US$145) This pro- Where to Cycle: Bali
fessional operator offers popular canyoning day
trips to central Bali involving abseiling, swimming, It’s really much easier to tell you where not
jumping, climbing and ziplining among scenic to ride in Bali: Denpasar south through
gorges and waterfalls. Sanur in the east, and Kerobokan to Kuta
in the west, suffer from lots of traffic and
Bali Nature Walk (p160) Walks in isolated areas narrow roads. Across the rest of the island
in the Ubud region. routes are customisable you can find many rides that reward with
depending on your desires. lush tropical beauty. For something really PLAN YOUR TRIP BalI & loMBok oUTdoorS
Bali Sunrise Trekking & Tours (%0877 5342 different, try the still-lonely lanes of Nusa
1201; www.balisunrisetours.com; Gunung agung Penida.
treks from 1,000,000rp) leads treks throughout
the central mountains. Where to Cycle: Lombok &
Gili Islands
Safety Guidelines for Lombok is good for touring by bicycle. In
Trekking the populated areas the roads are flat, and
Before embarking on a trekking trip, con- the traffic across the island is less chaotic
sider the following points to ensure a safe than on Bali.
and enjoyable experience: East of Mataram are several attractions
¨ Pay any fees and carry any permits required that would make a good day trip: south to
by local authorities; often these fees will be Banyumulek via Gunung Pengsong and
rolled into the guide’s fee, meaning that it’s all then back to Mataram, for example. Some
negotiable. coastal roads have hills and curves like a
roller coaster. Try going north from Seng-
¨ Be sure you are healthy and feel comfortable gigi to Pemenang along the spectacular,
walking for a sustained period. recently improved, paved road, and then
¨ obtain reliable information about (if you feel energetic) return via the steep
environmental conditions along your intended climb over the Pusuk Pass. The Gilis are
route – the weather can get quite wet and cold in good for riding only as a means to get
the upper reaches of the volcanoes. around.
¨ Confirm with your guide that you will only go
on walks/treks within your realm of experience. Equipment
¨ Carry the proper equipment. depending on Serious cyclists will want to pack personal
the trek and time of year this can mean rain gear gear they consider essential. For top-end
or extra water. Carry a torch; don’t assume the gear, there’s Bali Bike Hire (p94), which
guide will have one. stocks top brands not found elsewhere.
Casual riders can rent bikes and helmets in
many locations; when in doubt ask at your
accommodation.
Cycling
Cyclists are becoming common on Bali’s Cycling Tour Operators
busy roads. The main advantage of touring Popular tours start high in the central
Bali by bike is the quality of the experi- mountains at places such as Kintamani or
ence – you can be totally immersed in the Bedugul. The tour company takes you to
environment, hearing the wind rustling in the top and then you ride down relatively
the rice paddies or the sound of a gamelan quiet mountain roads, soaking up the lush
practising while catching the scent of scenery, village culture and tropical scents.

40
The cost including bicycle, gear and Tours start at kintamani and take small roads
lunch is US$40 to US$80. Transport to/ through lush scenery south to Ubud; other op-
from south Bali and Ubud hotels is usu- tions focus on rural culture.
ally included; hotel pick-up in Kuta can Banyan Tree Cycling Tours (p159) Enjoy day-long
be as early as 6.30am. Tours usually run tours of remote villages in the hills above Ubud.
from 8.30am to 4pm and involve a lot of It’s locally owned by Bagi and very popular. The
coasting and stopping. Not all companies tours emphasise interaction with villagers; there is
provide helmets, which is outrageous. Be also an extreme cycling tour.
sure yours does.
The following are companies to Bung Bung Adventure Biking (p218) Based in
consider: Tirta Gangga, these tours follow back roads in
fecund east Bali that are ignored by other tours.
Archipelago Adventure (%0361-808 1769,
0851 0208 1769; www.archipelago-adventure. C.Bali (p233) Offers excellent bike tours in and
com; adult/child from US$55/45) Offers a huge around Gunung Batur and the lake. The antidote
and interesting range of tours, including ones on to cookie-cutter bike tours.
Java. In Bali, there are rides around Jatiluwih and
danau Buyan, and mountain biking on trails from
kintamani.
Bali Bike-Baik Tours (%0361-978052; www. Rafting
balibike.com; tours from 450,000rp) Tours run Rafting is popular, usually as a day trip
downhill from kintamani. The emphasis is on from either south Bali or Ubud. Operators
cultural immersion and there are frequent stops in pick you up, take you to the put-in point,
tiny villages and at rice farms. provide all the equipment and guides, and
Bali Eco Cycling (%0361-975557; www.balieco- return you to your hotel at the end of the
cycling.com; tours adult/child from US$40/30) day. The best time is during the wet season
PLAN YOUR TRIP BalI & loMBok oUTdoorS

CYCLING SUGGESTIONS
You can’t get too lost on an island as small as Bali. The following are areas good for explor-
ing on two wheels:
LOCATION DETAILS
Bukit Peninsula Explore cliffs, coves and beaches along the west and south coasts;
beach promenade at Nusa Dua; avoid the congested area by the
airport
Central Mountains ambitious routes; explore danau Bratan, danau Buyan and danau
Tamblingan; ride downhill to the north coast via Munduk and to
the south via small roads from Candikuning
East Bali Coast road lined with beaches; north of the coast is uncrowded
with serene rice terraces; the Sideman area has lodges good for
cyclists
North Bali lovina is a good base for day trips to remote waterfalls and
temples; the northeast coast has resorts popular with cyclists
circumnavigating Bali
Nusa Lembongan Small, with beaches that make good goals for each ride; cross the
cool narrow suspension bridge and explore Nusa Ceningan
Nusa Penida For serious cyclists who bring bikes; nearly traffic-free, with re-
mote vistas of the sea, sheer cliffs, white beaches and lush jungle
Ubud Many tour companies are based here; narrow mountain roads
lead to ancient monuments and jaw-dropping rice-terrace views
West Bali Rice fields and dense jungle rides in and around Tabanan, Keram-
bitan and Bajera; further west, small roads off the main road lead
to mountain streams, deserted beaches and hidden temples

41







MINILOC / SHUTTERSTOCK ©





















Manta Point, Nusa Penida (p143) PLAN YOUR TRIP BalI & loMBok oUTdoorS
(November to March) or just after. At other water on an individual river board or a tube. Tours
times, water levels can be too low. go to west Bali.
Some operators use the Sungai Ayung Bali Adventure Tours (%0361-721480; www.bali
(Ayung River), near Ubud, where there are adventuretours.com; rafting trips from US$85)
between 25 and 33 Class II to III rapids (ie Sungai ayung; also has kayak trips.
potentially exciting but not perilous). The
Sungai Telagawaja (Telagawaja River) near Mega Rafting (%0361-246724; www.megaraft
Muncan in east Bali is also popular. It’s ingbali.com; adult/child from US$75/65) Sungai
more rugged than the Ayung and the scen- ayung.
ery is more wild. Sobek (%0361-729016; www.balisobek.com; raft-
Discounts on published prices are com- ing from US$80) Trips on both the Sungai ayung
mon, so do ask. Consider the following and Sungai Telagawaja.
operators:
Bio (%0361-270949; www.bioadventurer.com;
adult/child from US$80/65) Get closer to the

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
42





Plan Your Trip
Travel with


Children



Travelling with anak-anak (children) in Bali is an enriching experi-
ence. Locals consider kids part of the community, and everyone has
a responsibility towards them. Children of all ages will enjoy both
the attention and the many diversions that will make their holiday
as special as that of the adults.


Highlights
Bali & Lombok for Kids
Beaches Children are a social asset when you travel
in Bali, and people will display great inter-
From surf schools at Kuta Beach to flying kites at est in any Western child they meet. You
Sanur Beach – kids of all ages will get their kicks. will have to learn your child’s age and sex
in Bahasa Indonesia – bulau is month,
Water Fun tahun is year, laki-laki is boy and perem-
puan is girl. You should also make polite
Play in the ocean at Nusa Lembongan, or snorkel enquiries about the other person’s chil-
at Pulau Menjangan. For something different, walk dren, present or absent.
across rice fields – who could resist the promise The obvious drawcards for kids are the
of muddy water filled with fun critters? loads of outdoor adventures available. But
there are also many cultural treats that
Animals kids will love.
Meets the beasts at Ubud’s Sacred Monkey Forest Dance
Sanctuary; the Bali Bird Park south of Ubud; the
Elephant Safari Park north of Ubud; and the Bali A guaranteed snooze right? Wrong. Check
Safari & Marine Park, in east Bali. out an evening Barong dance at the Ubud
Palace (p180) or Pura Dalem Ubud (p180),
two venues that look like sets from Tomb
Raider right down to the flaming torches.
Sure, the Legong style of Balinese might
be tough going for fidgety types, but the
Barong has monkeys, monsters, a witch
and more.
Markets
If young explorers are going to tem-
ples, they will need sarongs. Give them
100,000Rp at a traditional market and let
’em loose. Vendors will be truly charmed
as the kids try to bargain and assemble the

43
most colourful combo (and nothing is too
loud for a Balinese temple). Planning
Temples The critical decision is deciding where to
base yourselves.
Pick the fun ones. Goa Gajah (p184) in
Bedulu has a deep cavern where hermits Where to Stay
lived and which you enter through the
mouth of a monster. Pura Luhur Batukau There’s a huge range of accommodation
(p241) is in dense jungle in the Gunung options for families.
Batukau area with a cool lake and a rush- ¨ A hotel with a swimming pool, air-con and
ing stream. a beachfront location is fun for kids and very
convenient, and still provides a good break for
parents. Fortunately there are plenty of choices.
Children’s Highlights ¨ Many larger resorts from Tuban north PLAN YOUR TRIP TrAVEL WITh ChILDrEN
through Legian and also at Nusa Dua have
Beaches special programs for kids that include lots of
activities during the day and evening. Better
Kuta Beach (p52) Surf schools. ones have special supervised pool areas and
Sanur Beach (p121) Kids will get their kicks in the other fun kids’ zones.
gentle surf. ¨ Many hotels and guesthouses, at whatever
price range, have a ‘family plan’, which means
Batu Bolong Beach (p96) Where the cool kids of
all ages hang out. that children up to about 12 years old can share
a room with their parents free of charge. The
Water catch is that hotels may charge for extra beds,
although many offer family rooms which can
Pulau Menjangan (p257), north Bali The best accommodate four or more.
snorkeling on the island. ¨ A family might really enjoy a villa-style unit
Rice fields walks, Ubud For something different, in Seminyak, Kerobokan and the Canggu area.
walk amid muddy water filled with ducks, frogs Within your own small private compound you’ll
and other fun critters. have a pool and often more than one TV. Cooking
facilities mean you can prepare familiar foods
Frolicking while the relative seclusion makes naps easy.
Bali Treetop Adventure Park (p236), Candikun-
ing Kids can make like monkeys. STAYING SAFE
Waterbom Park (p53), Tuban A huge aquatic The main danger to kids – and adults
playground.
for that matter – is traffic and bad
footpaths in busy areas.
Animals The sorts of facilities, safeguards
Sacred Monkey Forest Sanctuary (p154), Ubud and services that Western parents
Monkeys and temples! regard as basic may not be present.
Not many restaurants provide high-
Bali Bird Park (p191), south of Ubud Amazing chairs, places with great views might
birds and reptiles.
have nothing to stop your kids falling
over the edge, and shops often have
Cool Old Things breakable things down low.
Tirta Empul (p187), north of Ubud Kids will love Given the ongoing rabies crisis in
the Indiana Jones–like pools at the ancient water Bali, be sure to keep children away
palace and park. from stray dogs.
For any activity it’s worth check-
Tirta Gangga (p218), east Bali Fun water palace
where you can swim. ing out conditions carefully. Just
because that rafting company sells
Pura Luhur Ulu Watu (p112), south Bali A beauti- tickets to families doesn’t mean they
ful temple with monkeys. are well set up to cater to the safety
needs of children.

44
¨ Many hotels can arrange a babysitter during Six to 12 Years
the day or evening. In Kuta, Cheeky Monkeys
(p53) offers drop-off childcare during the day. ¨ Binoculars for young explorers to zoom in
on wildlife, rice terraces, temples, dancers and
¨ hotel staff are usually very willing to help and so on.
improvise, so always ask if you need something
for your children. ¨ A camera or phone that shoots video to inject
newfound fun into grown-up sights and walks.
¨ At family homestays and guesthouses,
especially in Ubud, young travellers might just
feel part of the family as they watch offerings
being made and people their own age going Eating with Kids
about their daily business.
Eating out as a family is one of the joys of
What to Pack visiting Bali. Kids are treated like deities
by doting staff who will clamour to grab
Huge supermarkets and stores such as yours (especially young babies) while par-
Carrefour in south Bali stock almost every- ents enjoy some quiet time together.
thing you’d find at similar shops at home, Bali, especially, is so relaxed that kids
including many Western foods. Nappies can just be kids. There are plenty of top-
(diapers), Western baby food, packaged end eateries in Seminyak and elsewhere
UHT milk, infant formula and other sup- where kids romp nearby while their par-
plies are easily purchased. ents enjoy a fine meal.
If your children don’t like spicy food,
Babies & Toddlers show caution in offering them the local cui-
¨ A front or back sling or other baby carrier: sine. For older babies, bananas, eggs, peela-
PLAN YOUR TRIP TrAVEL WITh ChILDrEN
Bali’s barely walkable streets and paths are not ble fruit and bubur (rice cooked to a mush
suited to prams and pushchairs. in chicken stock) are all generally available.
Many warungs (food stalls) will serve food
¨ A portable changing mat, hand-wash gel et al without sauces upon request, such as plain
(baby changing facilities are a rarity). white rice, fried tempeh or tofu, chicken,
¨ Kids’ car seats: cars, whether rented or boiled vegetables and boiled egg. Otherwise,
chartered with a driver, are unlikely to come with kid-pleasers like burgers, chicken fingers,
these. pizza and pasta are widespread, as are fast-
food chains in south Bali.

BEST REGIONS FOR KIDS
Ubud There are many things to see and do (walks, monkeys, markets and shops).
Evenings may require greater creativity to keep younger kids amused, although
many will be entranced by the dance performances.
Kuta & Legian Though crowded and crazy, and sometimes sleazy, beachfront re-
sorts near the sand, surf lessons and all manner of cheap souvenirs will entice kids
and teens.
Seminyak There’s traffic and the surf is strong, but there’s also large hotels on the
beach and an appealing mix for all ages.
Lovina Modest, quiet hotels near the beach, limited traffic and a reef-protected
beach make this place a good choice far from the rest of Bali.
Nusa Dua Huge beachside resorts with kids’ programs, a reef-protected beach and
modest traffic.
Sanur Beachside resorts, a reef-protected beach, light traffic and close to many
kid-friendly activities.
Gili Air Small island so kids won’t get lost; gentle surf; many tourist amenities and
activities such as snorkelling.
Senggigi Modest, quiet hotels on the beach; limited traffic; reef-protected beach
with gentle waves.

45







JON CHICA / SHUTTERSTOCK ©


















PLAN YOUR TRIP TrAVEL WITh ChILDrEN



















Top: Balinese children
Bottom: Long-tailed
macaques in the
Sacred Monkey Forest
Sanctuary (p154), FROLOVA_ELENA / SHUTTERSTOCK©
Ubud

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
46




Regions Kuta & South Bali &


at a Seminyak the Islands

Beaches
Beaches
Glance Nightlife Surfing
Diving
Shopping
Kuta Beach Balangan Beach
Kuta’s famous sweep Beaches can be
Kuta and Seminyak are the main of wave-pounded found right around
sand extends for
south Bali: little
towns in the most touristed part 12km past Legian, coves of white sand
of Bali, the part of the south that Seminyak, Kerobo- like Balangan and
follows the magnificent stretch of kan and Canggu, Bingin are idyllic
sand from the airport northwest before finally ending and inspire one to
via Canggu to Pererenan Beach. up on the rocks near just plop down on a
chair and watch the
Pererenan Beach.
The Bukit Peninsula combines All along the sand gorgeous surf.
remote surf breaks with vast are beach bars and
resorts. vendors where the Ulu Watu
Ubud occupies the heart of Bali atmosphere is al- Breaks
in many respects and shares some ways merry. You can’t say
of the island’s most beautiful rice Party ‘Til Dawn enough about the
fields with east Bali. The latter has Restaurants and surf breaks on the
west coast of the
no major centre but does have cafes in Seminyak, Bukit Peninsula;
popular areas such as Padangbai Kerobokan and Ulu Watu is famous
and the Amed Coast. Canggu are some the world over, and
Bali’s centre is dominated by of the best on Bali. its multitude of
Some have gorgeous
dramatic volcanoes. North and sunset views, while breaks are world-
renowned. Cool
west Bali are thinly populated but bars and clubs have guesthouses let you
have fine diving. a vaguely sophisti- stay near the action.
cated air. Nightlife
becomes manic in Underwater
Kuta, where the Nusa Penida
party goes all night.
The best diving is
Seminyak’s at the islands. Nusa
Shops Penida has challeng-
Shopping in Semin- ing conditions and
deep-water cliffs,
yak and Kerobokan and you might even
is reason enough see large creatures,
to visit Bali – the such as manta rays
choice is winging their way
extraordinary. along.
p50 p102

47








Ubud & Central
Around East Bali Mountains North Bali

Culture Beaches Hikes Resorts
Indulgence Hikes Culture Chilling
Walks History Solitude Diving PLAN YOUR TRIP Regions at a gl ance
Dancers & Pasir Putih Munduk Treks Pemuteran’s
Artists Beaches are found The centre of the Resorts
Ubud is the nexus along much of the island offers hikes The crescent of
of Balinese culture. Bali’s east coast. around volcanoes beach hotels at
Each night there While you’ll come and lakes. Trails ra- Pemuteran is the
are a dozen perfor- across many a dark diating from Mun- real star of north
mances of tradi- volcanic sand strand duk include these Bali. Beautifully
tional dance, music, along the coast natural highlights built, the hotels
puppets and more. road, the real star is along with misty form a fine human-
It’s home to talented popular Pasir Putih, walks through spice scale resort area,
artists, including with its swimmable plantations and jun- and they’re close to
superb woodcarv- surf, lovely sand and gle to waterfalls. Pulau Menjangan.
ers who make the mellow vendors.
masks for the shows. Top Temple Lovina’s Quiet
Wandering Pura Luhur Batukau Settle onto a mat
Spas Sideman never fails to touch on Lovina’s tan and
Spas of every stripe, Some of Bali’s most the spirit of those grey sand, pick up a
often with tradition- alluring rice fields who find this temple book and let the day
al medicine sessions and landscapes on the slopes of drift past at your
and yoga classes, are found in the Gunung Batukau. It low-cost, quiet geta-
are the soul of Ubud east. You’re spoiled is a mystical – and way. Even the surf
indulgence. Services for choice around misty – place to is mellow: much of
for mind and body Sideman, which contemplate Bali’s the north coast is
abound, with near has walks aplenty beliefs and to com- protected by reefs.
limitless options through the verdant mune with nature.
from bargain-priced green hills and val- Pulau
massages to opulent leys. Or go all out, Remote Walks Menjangan
all-day retreats. rise early and tackle A solitary visit to Pulau Menjangan
Gunung Agung. Pura Luhur Batukau lives up to its many
Explore Nature can be followed by superlatives. A 30m
The rice fields sur- A Tragic Past retreats to nearby coral wall close to
rounding Ubud are Taman Kertha Gosa remote lodges, treks shore delights both
some of Bali’s most has the moving through the volcanic divers and snorkel-
picturesque. You can remains of a palace mountains and lers with a cast of
walk for an hour or lost when the royals wanderings around fish and creatures
a day, enjoying river committed ritual the adjoining lakes that varies from
valleys, small vil- suicide rather than Danau Buyan and sardines to whales.
lages and enveloping surrender to the Danau Tamblingan.
natural beauty. Dutch in 1908. p243
p228
p147 p193

48








West Bali Lombok Gili Islands

Surfing Hiking Diving
Beaches Coastline Beaches
Rice Fields Tropical Chic Chilling

Medewi Breaks Gunung Rinjani Coral Reefs
The breaks at Balian A majestic volcano, Forming one of
Beach have a fol- Gunung Rinjani’s Indonesia’s most
lowing, and a small very presence species-rich envi-
surfer community overshadows all of ronments, the Gilis’
has sprung up with northern Lombok. coral reefs teem
simple guesthouses Hiking trails sneak with fascinating sea
and somewhat posh- up Rinjani’s as- life. The islands are
er retreats. Hang tonishing caldera, perfect for divers
PLAN YOUR TRIP Regions at a gl ance
out with locals who where you’ll find a (including freediv-
know the waters shimmering crater ers) and snorkellers,
well. Further west, lake, hot springs and you’re almost
Medewi is even and a smoking guaranteed to see
more remote. mini-cone. turtles.
Balian Beach South Coast Gili Air Beaches
Balian Beach is the Lombok’s southern Pack your sun-
main strand in the coastline is nature screen, mat, some
west, and it makes a in the raw. There’s water and a good
good place to hang absolutely noth- book and head out
even if you’re not ing genteel about in the morning to
surfing. Enjoy the the magnificent walk around Gili
range of accommo- shoreline, which is Air. Along the way
dation, from hip to pounded by oceanic stop at each and
simple to posh. waves that make every beach that
it a surfer’s mecca. catches your fancy.
Tabanan Empty beaches
Unesco has given allow exceptional Gili Meno
Bali’s subak system swimming in azure We’ve all dreamed
of rice-field irriga- waters. of finding the ulti-
tion World Heritage mate beach: a vision
Site status. The area Sire of palm trees, blind-
around Tabanan For total immersion ing white sands and
has some of the in tropical chic, a turquoise sea, plus
most beautiful rice the Sire area offers a bamboo shack
fields, plus a nice some gorgeous re- selling cool drinks
little museum and sorts that combine and fresh fish. Yours
the nearby temple a bamboo and might just be an
of Pura Taman thatched motif with obscure corner on
Ayun. pampering. Meno.
p261 p271 p298