149
oPura Taman Saraswati hiNdU TEMPLE ment started, when artists first began to
(Map p150; Jl Raya Ubud) F Waters from the abandon purely religious themes and court
temple at the rear of this site feed the pond subjects for scenes of everyday life. This mu-
in the front, which overflows with pretty lo- seum displays fine examples of all schools of
tus blossoms. There are carvings that hon- Balinese art, and all are well labelled in Eng-
our Dewi Saraswati, the goddess of wisdom lish. It was set up by Rudolf Bonnet, with
and the arts, who has clearly given her bless- Cokorda Gede Agung Sukawati (a prince of
ing to Ubud. There are regular dance perfor- Ubud’s royal family) and Walter Spies.
mances by night. East Building to the right upon entry has
a collection of early works from Ubud and
Ubud Palace PALACE surrounding villages. These include exam-
(Map p150; cnr Jl Raya Ubud & Jl Suweta; h8am- ples of classical 16th-century cloth wayang-
7pm) F The palace and its temple, Puri style paintings (art influenced by shadow
Saren Agung, share a space in the heart of puppetry).
Ubud. The compound was mostly built after North Building features fine ink draw-
the 1917 earthquake and the local royal fam- ings by I Gusti Nyoman Lempad and paint-
ily still lives here. You can wander around ings by Pita Maha artists. Notice the level
most of the large compound and explore the of detail in Lempad’s The Dream of Dhar-
many traditional, though not excessively or- mawangsa. Classic works from the 1930s
nate, buildings. heyday of expats are also here.
Take time to appreciate the stone carv- West Building has vibrant postwar mod-
ings, many by noted local artists such as I ern art by Balinese painters. South Build-
Gusti Nyoman Lempad. On many nights you ing is used for special exhibitions. UbUd & AroUnd UBU
can watch a dance performance here. The museum has a good bookshop and
Just north, Pura Marajan Agung (Jl Suwe- a cafe. The lush, garden-like grounds alone
ta) is the private temple for the royal family. are worth a visit.
The compound across from the palace has a
magnificent banyan tree, and is also used as Pura Desa Ubud hiNdU TEMPLE
UbUd & AroUnd Sigh d
a residence for the family. (Map p150; Jl Raya Ubud) F The main tem-
UbUd & AroUnd UBUd TS
ple for the Ubud community. It is often
oMuseum Puri Lukisan MUSEUM closed but comes alive for ceremonies.
(Map p150; Museum of Fine Arts; %0361-975136;
www .museumpurilukisan .com; off Jl Raya Ubud; Neka Gallery gALLERY
adult/child 85,000Rp/free; h9am-5pm) It was (Map p150; %0361-975034; Jl Raya Ubud; h8am-
in Ubud that the modern Balinese art move- 5pm) F Operated by Suteja Neka since
UBUD IN...
One Day
Stroll the streets of Ubud by starting with the classic loop of Monkey Forest Rd down to
the namesake park (p154) and then coming back up along Jl Hanoman. You can spend
hours browsing shops and galleries and stopping into characterful cafes. Wander side
streets and gang (alleys), exploring Jl Dewi Sita and Jl Goutama, and venture a little fur-
ther afield through the verdant rice fields, for a great introduction to Ubud. Follow it up
with an evening dance performance (p180).
Three Days
During the mornings, take longer walks in the countryside, exploring the Campuan
Ridge and Sayan Valley. Consider a guided walking tour. In the afternoons visit the
Museum Puri Lukisan, Neka Art Museum (p152) and Agung Rai Museum of
Art (p154). By night, catch more dramatic dance performances (p180) in Ubud and the
nearby villages. Indulge at a local spa (p157).
One Week
Do everything we’ve listed in the one- and three-day itineraries but take time to simply
chill out. Get in tune with Ubud’s rhythm: take naps, read books, wander about. Think
about a course (p160) in Balinese culture. Compare and choose your favourite cafe, get
out to craft villages and explore ancient sites.
150
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152
Central Ubud
æ Top Sights 26 Batik Sekar Bali Guest House ...............D5
1 Museum Puri Lukisan............................ B2 27 Biangs ..................................................... F5
2 Pura Taman Saraswati.......................... C2 28 Donald Homestay ..................................D4
3 Sacred Monkey Forest Sanctuary ....... B8 29 d'Rompok House....................................D4
30 Eka's Homestay......................................D2
æ Sights 31 Family Guest House...............................F6
4 Komaneka Art Gallery........................... C5 32 Griya Jungutan .......................................B4
5 Lempad's House.................................... D2 33 Han Snel Siti Bungalows........................ C1
6 Neka Gallery............................................E3 34 Happy Mango Tree.................................A4
7 Pura Dalem Agung................................. A8 35 Ina Inn......................................................A3
8 Pura Desa Ubud..................................... C2 36 Jukung Hostel.........................................C3
9 Pura Marajan Agung.............................. C2 37 Ladera Villa Ubud...................................A6
10 Puri Saren Agung................................... C2 38 Lumbung Sari.........................................C5
11 Ubud Palace........................................... C2 39 Matahari Cottages .................................E4
40 Ni Nyoman Warini Bungalows...............D7
Ø Activities, Courses & Tours 41 Nirvana Pension .....................................D3
12 Cafe Wayan Cooking Class................... A8 42 Oka Wati Hotel........................................B3
13 Casa Luna Cooking School................... A4 43 Padma Ubud........................................... C1
Museum Puri Lukisan......................(see 1) 44 Pondok Krishna......................................A2
14 Nirvana Batik Course ............................ D3 45 Puri Asri 2 ...............................................E6
15 Nur Salon ............................................... D5 46 Puri Saraswati Bungalows.....................B2
16 Pondok Pekak Library & Learning 47 Puri Saren Agung ...................................C2
Centre.................................................. C4 48 Raka House.............................................C3
17 Radiantly Alive ........................................E4 49 Sama's Cottages....................................B3
18 Studio Perak .......................................... D4 50 Sania's House.........................................C3
19 Taksu Spa .............................................. D5 51 Sri Bungalows.........................................B5
Threads of Life Indonesian 52 Warsa's Garden Bungalows ..................B6
Textile Arts Center ...................(see 112)
UbUd & AroUnd UBU
20 Ubud Tourist Information ..................... C2 ú Eating
UbUd & AroUnd Sigh d
21 Wayan Nuriasih.......................................E4 53 Bali Bunda...............................................E3
UbUd & AroUnd UBUd TS
Wayan Pasek Sucipta...................(see 30) 54 Bali Bunda Shop.....................................E3
22 Yoga Barn............................................... D8 55 Bebek Bengil...........................................D7
56 Black Beach............................................D3
ÿ Sleeping 57 Cafe Havana ...........................................C4
23 Adipana Bungalow..................................E5 58 Casa Luna ...............................................B2
24 Aji Lodge..................................................F5 59 Clear........................................................D4
25 Artini Cottages 1 .................................... D6 60 Delta Dewata Supermarket...................G3
1966, the low-key Neka Gallery is a separate Sanggingan takes you past a range of inter-
entity from the other gallery bearing Neka’s esting sights. Venture up the steep steps to
name, Neka Art Museum. It has an extensive Penestanan for walks among small guest-
selection from all the schools of Balinese art, houses and rice fields coursing with water.
as well as works by European residents,
such as the renowned Arie Smit. You can Pura Gunung Lebah hiNdU TEMPLE
wander about freely. (Map p156; off Jl Raya Campuan) This old temple,
which sits on a jutting rock at the conflu-
Komaneka Art Gallery gALLERY ence of two tributaries of the Sungai Cerik
(Map p150; %0361-401 2217; Monkey Forest Rd; (campuan means ‘two rivers’), has recently
h8am-9pm) F With special exhibitions benefited from a huge building campaign.
of works from established Balinese artists, The setting is magical; listen to the rushing
this gallery is a good place to see high-profile waters while admiring the impressive mul-
art, in a large and lofty space. ti-stepped meru (multi-tiered shrine) and a
wealth of ever-more elaborate carvings.
1 West Ubud oNeka Art Museum gALLERY
Strolling Jl Raya Campuan down to the (Map p156; %0361-975074; www .museumneka .
bridge (note the older historic wooden com; Jl Raya Sanggingan; adult/child 50,000Rp/
bridge just south) over the Sungai Wos and free; h9am-5pm Mon-Sat, noon-5pm Sun) The
then up the busy and interesting Jl Raya creation of Suteja Neka, a private collector
153
Dewa Warung................................(see 28) Rio Helmi Gallery & Cafe ........... (see 109)
61 Earth Cafe & Market.............................. D5 93 Seniman Cold Brew Bar.........................D2
62 Fair Warung Balé ................................... D3
63 Gelato Secrets ....................................... C3 ý Entertainment
64 Hujon Locale .......................................... D3 94 Oka Kartini .............................................. F3
Il Giardino ......................................(see 33) 95 Padangtegal Kaja ...................................D4
65 Juice Ja Cafe.......................................... C4 Paradiso.........................................(see 61)
66 Kafe......................................................... D6 96 Pondok Bamboo Music Shop................C7
67 Kafe Batan Waru.................................... C4 97 Pura Dalem Ubud................................... A1
Kebun ........................................... (see 111) 98 Pura Padang Kerta................................ D6
68 Kué...........................................................E3 Pura Taman Saraswati .................. (see 2)
69 Locavore................................................. C4 99 Puri Agung Peliatan ...............................F8
70 Locavore to Go ...................................... D4 Ubud Palace................................... (see 11)
71 Mama's Warung......................................F5
72 Melting Wok ........................................... D3 þ Shopping
73 Pica ......................................................... C4 100 Ashitaba................................................. D6
74 Produce Market..................................... C3 101 Confiture Michèle...................................D4
75 Siti's Warung Little India ........................E5 102 CreArt Story ...........................................D4
76 Spice....................................................... B2 103 Ganesha Bookshop................................E3
77 Three Monkeys ...................................... B6 104 Kou ..........................................................C4
78 Tutmak Cafe .......................................... C4 105 Kou Cuisine.............................................C3
79 Ubud Organic Market.............................F5 106 Moari .......................................................E3
80 Waroeng Bernadette............................. D4 107 Namaste .................................................D7 UbUd & AroUnd UBU
81 Warung Ibu Oka ..................................... C2 108 Periplus ...................................................C3 UbUd & AroUnd UBUd TS
82 Warung Mangga Madu.......................... G3 Pondok Bamboo Music Shop...... (see 96)
83 Warung Sopa ......................................... D4 109 Rio Helmi Gallery & Cafe .......................C2
84 Watercress............................................. B5 Smile Shop.................................... (see 93)
110 Street 278...............................................B2
û Drinking & Nightlife 111 Tegun Galeri .......................................... D6
UbUd & AroUnd Sigh d
85 Anomali Coffee ...................................... D3 112 Threads of Life Indonesian
86 Bar Luna................................................. B2 Textile Arts Center .............................. C1
87 Coffee Studio Seniman......................... D2 113 Tn Parrot.................................................D4
88 CP Lounge.............................................. C4 114 Ubud Market...........................................C2
89 Freak Coffee........................................... D4 115 Ubud Yoga Shop ....................................D5
90 Laughing Buddha .................................. B5
91 Napi Orti ..................................................E5
92 Noma's ................................................... B6
and dealer in Balinese art, Neka Art Muse- artists, such as Louise Koke, Miguel Covar-
um has an excellent and diverse collection. rubias, Rudolf Bonnet, Han Snel, Donald
It’s a good place to learn about the devel- Friend and Antonio Blanco.
opment of painting in Bali. You can get an The temporary exhibition hall has chang-
overview of the myriad local painting styles ing displays, while the Photography Ar-
in the Balinese Painting Hall. Look for the chive Centre features black-and-white pho-
wayang works. tography of Bali in the early 1930s and ’40s.
The Arie Smit Pavilion features Smit’s Head upstairs in the lobby to see the large
works on the upper level, and examples of collection of ceremonial kris (daggers). The
the Young Artist school, which he inspired, bookshop is noteworthy and there’s a cafe.
on the lower level. Look for the Bruegel-like
The Wedding Ceremony by I Nyoman Tjarka. Blanco Renaissance Museum MUSEUM
The Lempad Pavilion houses Bali’s larg- (Map p156; %0361-975502; www .blancomuseum .
est collection of works by the master I Gusti com; Jl Raya Campuan; adult/child 80,000Rp/
Nyoman Lempad. free; h9am-5pm) The picture of Antonio
The Contemporary Indonesian Art Hall Blanco (1912–99) mugging with Michael
has paintings by artists from other parts of Jackson says it all. His surreal palatial
Indonesia, including stunning works by Af- neo-renaissance home and namesake mu-
fandi. The upper floor of the East-West Art seum captures the artist’s theatrical spirit.
Annexe is devoted to the work of foreign Blanco came to Bali from Spain via the
Philippines. Playing the role of an eccentric
154
UBUD’S FAMOUS ARTISTS
Spies House, home of German artist Walter Spies, is now part of Hotel Tjampuhan
(p170); aficionados can stay if they book well in advance (if unoccupied, staff will give
you a tour; be sure to tip). Spies played an important part in promoting Bali’s artistic
culture in the 1930s.
Dutch-born artist Han Snel lived in Ubud from the 1950s until his death in 1999, and
his family runs his namesake bungalows (p164) on Jl Kajeng.
Lempad’s House (Map p150; Jl Raya Ubud; hdaylight) F, the home of I Gusti Ny-
oman Lempad, is open to visitors but it’s mainly used as a gallery for a group of artists
that includes Lempad’s grandchildren. The Puri Lukisan and Neka museums have more
extensive collections of Lempad’s drawings.
Music scholar Colin McPhee is well known thanks to his evocative book about his
time in Ubud, the perennial favourite A House in Bali. Although the actual 1930s house is
long gone, you can visit the riverside site (which shows up in photographs in the book) at
the Sayan Terrace (Map p156; www .sayanterraceresort .com; Jl Raya Sayan; %0361-974384).
The hotel’s Wayan Ruma, whose mother was McPhee’s cook, is good for a few stories.
Arie Smit (1916–2016) was the best-known and longest-surviving Western artist
in Ubud. He worked in the Dutch colonial administration in the 1930s, was imprisoned
during WWII, and came to Bali in 1956. In the 1960s his influence sparked the Young
Artists school of painting in Penestanan, earning him an enduring place in the history of
Balinese art. His home is not open to the public.
artist à la Dalí, he is known for his expres- Note that the monkeys keep a keen eye on
sionist art and illustrated poetry that incor- passing tourists in hope of handouts (or an
UbUd & AroUnd UBU
porates a mix of styles and mediums. Enjoy opportunity to help themselves). Irritating
UbUd & AroUnd Sigh d
the waterfall and exotic birds on the way in, recorded warnings (and signs) list of all the
UbUd & AroUnd UBUd TS
and good views over the river. ways monkeys can cause trouble: avoid eye
contact and showing your teeth, including
1 South Ubud smiling, which is deemed a sign of aggres-
You can reach some of Ubud’s best sights via sion. Also, don’t try to take bananas from the
walks along Jl Hanoman and Monkey Forest moneys or feed them. Despite this, you will
Rd, which are both lined with interesting be harangued to buy bananas to feed the
shops and cafes. Duck down narrow paths monkeys; there is no need for this as most
to find hidden rice fields. are already pudgy.
oSacred Monkey Forest Sanctuary PARK oAgung Rai Museum of Art gALLERY
(Map p150; Mandala Wisata Wanara Wana; %0361- (ARMA; Map p156; %0361-976659; www .armab-
971304; www .monkeyforestubud .com; Monkey For- ali .com; Jl Raya Pengosekan; adult/child incl drink
est Rd; adult/child 40,000/30,000Rp; h8 .30am- 60,000Rp/free; h9am-6pm, Balinese dancing
6pm) This cool and dense swath of jungle, 3-5pm Mon-Fri, classes 10am Sun) Founded by
officially called Mandala Wisata Wanara Agung Rai as a museum, gallery and cultural
Wana, houses three holy temples. The sanc- centre, the impressive ARMA is the only place
tuary is inhabited by a band of over 600 in Bali to see haunting works by influential
grey-haired and greedy long-tailed Balinese German artist Walter Spies, alongside many
macaques who are nothing like the innocent- more masterpieces. The museum is housed
looking doe-eyed monkeys on the brochures. in several traditional buildings set in gardens
Nestled in the forest is the interesting Pura with water coursing through channels. The
Dalem Agung F. collection is well labelled in English.
Enter the monkey forest through one of Highlights include works by 19th-century
three gates: the main one at the southern Javanese artist Raden Saleh, including his
end of Monkey Forest Rd; from 100m fur- enigmatic Portrait of a Javanese Nobleman
ther east, near the car park; or from the and His Wife, which predates the similar
southern side, on the lane from Nyuhkun- American Gothic by decades. Exhibits also
ing. Useful brochures about the forest, ma- include classical Kamasan paintings, Batu-
caques and temples are available. an-style work from the 1930s and ’40s, and
155
works by Lempad, Affandi, Sadali, Hofker, out you are rewarded with beautiful views of
Bonnet and Le Mayeur. rice fields and river valleys.
It’s fun to visit ARMA when local chil-
dren practise Balinese dancing and during Petulu NATURAL FEATURE
gamelan practice. There are regular Le- (village admission 20,000Rp) Every evening be-
gong and Kecak performances and myriad ginning after 5pm, up to 20,000 big herons
cultural courses offered here. fly in to Petulu, a village about 2.5km north of
Enter the museum grounds from Kafe Jl Raya Ubud, squabbling over prime perch-
Arma on Jl Raya Pengosekan or around the ing places before settling into the trees beside
corner at the ARMA Resort entrance. the road and becoming a tourist attraction.
The herons, mainly the striped Java pond
Pranoto’s Art Gallery gALLERY species, started their visits to Petulu in 1965
(%0361-970827; Jl Raya goa gajah, Teges; h9am- for no apparent reason. Villagers believe
5pm) Pranoto, a long-time Ubud artist, dis- they bring good luck (as well as tourists), de-
plays his works at this gallery/studio/home spite the smell and the mess. A few warung
which backs up to beautiful rice fields south- (food stalls) have been set up in the paddy
west of Ubud. The scenes of Indonesian life fields, where you can have a drink while
are lovely. The studio is about 1km east of Jl enjoying the spectacle. Walk quickly under
Peliatan. Ask about an atmospheric walking the trees if the herons are already roosting.
path you can take back to central Ubud. There Nesting and egg-laying begins in November,
are figure modelling sessions (30,000Rp) with the fledglings taking flight in March.
Wednesday and Saturday at 10am. Petulu is a pleasant walk or bicycle ride
on any of several routes north of Ubud, but UbUd & AroUnd UBUd
Museum Rudana gALLERY if you stay for the birds you’ll be heading
(Map p156; %0361-975779; www .museumrudana . back in the dark. UbUd & AroUnd ACTiviTiES
com; Jl Raya Mas; 50,000Rp; h9 .30am-5pm) This
imposing museum overlooking rice fields is 2 Activities
the creation of local politician and art lov-
UbUd & AroUnd UBUd
er Nyoman Rudana and his wife, Ni Wayan Made Surya hEALTh & FiTNESS
Olasthini. The three floors contain more (%0361-788 0822; www .balihealers .com) One of
than 400 traditional paintings, including a Bali’s top balian (traditional healers). He
calendar dated to the 1840s, some Lempad is an excellent resource if you’d like to try
drawings and more modern pieces. The mu- Balinese therapies.
seum is beside the Rudana Gallery, which Wayan Nuriasih hEALTh & FiTNESS
has a large selection of paintings for sale. (Map p150; %0361-917 5991, 0361-884 3042; bali-
Ketut Rudi Gallery gALLERY healer@hotmail .com; Jl Jembawan 5; h9am-5pm)
(%0361-974122; Pengosekan; h9am-7pm) These Wayan Nuriasih, one of the stars of Eat, Pray,
sprawling galleries showcase the works of Love, can work wonders with medicinal
more than 50 Ubud artists with techniques plants (many are for sale out front) as well as
as varied as primitive and new realism. The massage and other treatments. The ‘vitamin
gallery’s namesake is on display as well; he lunch’ is the antidote for a Bintang dinner.
favours an entertaining style best described
as ‘comical realism’. It’s about 2km south of REFILL YOUR WATER
Ubud.
BOTTLE
Agung Rai Gallery gALLERY
(Map p156; %0361-975449; Jl Peliatan; h9am- The number of plastic water bottles
6pm) This gallery is in a pretty compound emptied in Bali’s tropical heat daily and
and its collection covers the full range of then tossed in the trash is colossal. In
Balinese styles. It functions as a cooperative, Ubud there are a few places where you
with the work priced by the artist and the can refill your water bottle (plastic or re-
gallery adding a percentage. usable) for a small fee, usually 3000Rp.
The water is the same Aqua brand that
is preferred locally and you’ll be helping
1 North Ubud to preserve Bali’s beauty, one plastic
Wandering on the many lanes running bottle at a time. A good central location
north from Jl Raya Ubud takes you past is Pondok Pekak Library & Learning
sweet little homestays. As the buildings thin Centre (p160).
66
66 666 D SAKTI ÿ E F
156
Ubud Area
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UbUd & AroUnd UBUd
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4 Jl Bisma Jl Dewi Sita 4
UbUd & AroUnd ACTiviTiES
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Bali Adoption
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# Pengosekan
0 6 6 Pengosekan Jl Raya
100 m
A B C D E F
6
6
66
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6
66
66
Ubud Area # e 0 0 6 1 km Massages, Spas & Yoga 157
0.5 miles
A B C D E F Ubud brims with salons and spas where you
can heal, pamper, rejuvenate or otherwise
34 D Petulu focus on your personal needs, physical and
(150m)
# mental. Visiting a spa is at the top of many a
ÿ
66
6
66 yoga and other treatments grows each year.
6
1 1 traveller’s itinerary and the business of spas,
Expect the latest trends from any of many
NAGI
Bali Buddha is bewildering) and prepare to
ÿ practitioners (the bulletin board outside
# 17
6
66
66
6
try some new therapies, such as ‘pawing’. If
21
may also wish to seek out a balian.
#
ÿ you have to ask you don’t want to know. You
Many spas also offer courses in therapies,
2 JI Raya Andong 2 treatments and activities such as yoga.
oTaksu Spa
Jl Suweta 66 SPA
(Map p150; %0361-479 2525; www .taksuspa .com;
Jl goutama; massage from 375,000Rp; h9am-
9pm) Taksu has a long and rather lavish
Jl Sriwedari Jl Sandat couples massages; a breezy, healthy cafe; UbUd & AroUnd UBUd
focus on yoga. There are private rooms for
3 KUTUH 3 menu of treatments, as well as a strong
and a range of classes. Very popular, Taksu is
TAMAN expanding to additional locations.
oYoga Barn YOgA
(Map p150; %0361-971236; www .theyogabarn .com;
UbUd & AroUnd UBUd
Jl Raya Ubud
Jl Gunung Sari off Jl Raya Pengosekan; classes from 130,000Rp;
D
666
Jl Jembawan
Jl Sugriwa
4 TEBESAYA Maya Ubud 4 h7am-8pm) The chakra for the yoga revolu-
(500m)
tion in Ubud, the life force that is the Yoga
UbUd & AroUnd ACTiviTiES
Barn sits in its own lotus position amid trees
Jl Sukma
Jl Cok Gede Rai
back near a river valley. The name exactly
describes what you’ll find: a huge range
666
affirming offshoots are held through the
PADANGTEGAL of classes in yoga, Pilates, dance and life-
week. Owner Meghan Pappenheim also or-
ganises the popular Bali Spirit Festival.
5 PELIATAN 5 Ubud Sari Health Resort SPA
(Map p156; %0361-974393; www .ubudsari .com; Jl
666
Kajeng 35; 1hr massage from 200,000Rp; h9am-
8pm) A spa and hotel in one. It is a serious
place with extensive organic treatments
bearing such names as ‘total tissue cleans-
# ú
42
#
3
Pranoto's Art
#
lon services, there are packages that include
6 Ø Jl Cok Gede Rai â TEGES Gallery (650m) 6 ing’. Beside a long list of daytime spa and sa-
D
66 49 Rai Pudak Jl Raya Goa Gajah cleaning out your colon. SPA
666
stays at the hotel. Many treatments focus on
Bali Botanica Day Spa
(Map p156; %0361-976739; www .balibotanica .com;
# ú
Jl Cok
66 D Mas (2.8km) Ayurvedic. The herbal massage is popular.
h9am-9pm) Set beautifully on a lush hill-
side past little fields of rice and ducks, this
7 7 Jl Raya Sanggingan; massage from 180,000Rp;
spa offers a range of treatments, including
â
A B C D E 5 # F Transport is provided if needed.
158
Ubud Area
æ Top Sights 29 Swasti Eco Cottages..............................C6
1 Agung Rai Museum of Art..................... B7 30 Taman Bebek .........................................A2
2 Neka Art Museum...................................C1 31 Tegal Sari............................................... D6
32 Ubud Sari Health Resort........................D2
æ Sights 33 Villa Nirvana............................................A3
3 Agung Rai Gallery ...................................E6 34 Wapa di Ume ...........................................E1
4 Blanco Renaissance Museum .............. C3 35 Warwick Ibah Luxury Villas....................C3
5 Museum Rudana ....................................F7
6 Pura Gunung Lebah............................... C3 ú Eating
7 Sayan Terrace........................................ A2 36 Alchemy ..................................................B3
Spies House .................................. (see 19) 37 Bintang Supermarket ............................B2
38 Elephant..................................................C2
Ø Activities, Courses & Tours Kubu.............................................. (see 24)
8 ARMA...................................................... B6 39 Moksa......................................................A3
9 Bali Bird Walks....................................... C3 40 Mozaic..................................................... B1
10 Bali Botanica Day Spa............................C1 41 Naughty Nuri's........................................ C1
11 Intuitive Flow.......................................... B3 42 Pitri Minang.............................................E6
12 Mozaic Cooking Classes ........................C1 43 Pizza Bagus ............................................A6
Ubud Sari Health Resort ..............(see 32) 44 Swasti Beloved Cafe ..............................C6
13 Ubud Wellness Spa ............................... D6 45 Taco Casa .............................................. D6
Wayan Karja Painting...................(see 27) 46 Warung Bodag Maliah............................C2
47 Warung Pojok .........................................C6
ÿ Sleeping 48 Warung Pulau Kelapa.............................B2
14 Agung Raka............................................ A7 49 Warung Teges ........................................ F7
15 Alam Indah ............................................. C6 50 Yellow Flower Cafe.................................B3
16 ARMA Resort ......................................... B7
17 Bali Asli Lodge.........................................E2 û Drinking & Nightlife
18 Casa Ganesha Hotel.............................. A7 Bridges............................................ (see 4)
19 Hotel Tjampuhan................................... C3 51 Room 4 Dessert...................................... C1
UbUd & AroUnd UBUd
UbUd & AroUnd UBUd
20 Kertiyasa Bungalows............................. C6
21 Ketut's Place...........................................E2 ý Entertainment
22 Klub Kokos ..............................................C1 52 Arma Open Stage...................................B6
UbUd & AroUnd ACTiviTiES
23 Komaneka at Bisma .............................. C4
24 Mandapa, a Ritz-Carlton Reserve .........A1 þ Shopping
25 Melati Cottages...................................... B3 53 ARMA ......................................................B7
26 Roam ...................................................... B3 54 Goddess on the Go! .............................. D6
27 Santra Putra........................................... B3 55 Neka Art Museum .................................. C1
28 Saren Indah Hotel.................................. C6 56 Rumble....................................................C3
Radiantly Alive YOgA what counts, not the fru-fru. A favourite
(Map p150; %0361-978055; www .radiantlyalive . among Ubud’s creative community.
com; Jl Jembawan 3; per class/day/week 125,000/ Nur Salon
170,000/550,000Rp) This school will appeal SPA
to those looking for an intimate space, and (Map p150; %0361-975352; www .nursalonubud .
offers a mix of drop-in and long-term yoga com; Jl hanoman 28; 1hr massage 175,000Rp;
classes in a number of disciplines. h9am-9pm) In a traditional Balinese com-
pound filled with labelled medicinal plants;
Intuitive Flow YOgA offers a long menu of straightforward spa
(Map p156; %0361-977824; www .intuitiveflow .com; and salon services.
Penestanan; yoga from 120,000Rp; hclasses daily)
A lovely yoga studio up amid the rice fields Cycling
– although just climbing the concrete stairs Many shops and hotels in central Ubud dis-
to get here from Campuan may leave you too play mountain bikes for hire. The price is
spent for a round of asanas. Wide range of usually a negotiable 35,000Rp per day. If in
workshops in healing arts. doubt about where to rent, ask at your hotel
and someone with a bike is likely to appear.
Ubud Wellness Spa SPA In general, the land is dissected by rivers
(Map p156; %0361-970493; www .ubudwellness . running south, so any east–west route will
com; off Jl Pengosekan; massage from 150,000Rp; involve a lot of ups and downs as you cross
h9am-10pm) A spa that concentrates on the river valleys. North–south routes run be-
159
tween the rivers, and are much easier going, that depending on rainfall the run can range
but can have heavy traffic. Most of the sites from sedate to thrilling.
in Ubud are reachable by bike.
Riding a bike is an excellent way to visit T Tours
the many museums and cultural sites lo- Ubud Tourist Information CULTURAL
cated around Ubud, although you’ll need (Map p150; Fabulous Ubud; %0361-973285; www .
to consider your comfort level with traffic fabulousubud .com; Jl Raya Ubud; tours 185,000-
south of Ubud. 300,000Rp; h8am-8pm) Runs interesting and
Banyan Tree Cycling Tours CYCLiNg affordable half- and full-day trips to a range
(%0813 3879 8516; www .banyantreebiketours . of places, including Besakih and Kintamani.
com; tours adult/child from US$55/35) Enjoy Dhyana Putri Adventures CULTURAL
day-long tours of remote villages in the hills (%0812 380 5623; www .balispirit .com/tours/
above Ubud. The tours are very popular, and bali_tour_dhyana .html; tours per hr from US$25) Bi-
emphasise interaction with villagers. Hiking cultural and trilingual, author and Balinese
and rafting trips are also available. dance expert Rucina Ballinger offers custom
Rafting tours, with an emphasis on Balinese perform-
The Sungai Ayung (Ayung River) is the ing arts and in-depth cultural experiences.
most popular river in Bali for white-water Bali Nature Herbal Walks WALKiNg
rafting. You start north of Ubud and end (%0812 381 6024; www .baliherbalwalk .com; walks
near the Amandari hotel in the west. Note per person 200,000Rp; h8 .30am) Three-hour
BALI’S TRADITIONAL HEALERS UbUd & AroUnd TOUR
Bali’s traditional healers, known as balian (dukun on Lombok), play an important part in
Bali’s culture by treating physical and mental illness, removing spells and channelling infor-
mation from the ancestors. Numbering about 8000, balian are the ultimate in community
UbUd & AroUnd UBUd
UbUd & AroUnd UBUdS
medicine, making a commitment to serve their communities and turning no one away.
Lately, however, this system has come under stress in some areas due to the attention
brought by Eat, Pray, Love and other media coverage of Bali’s healers. Curious tourists
are turning up in village compounds, taking the balian’s time and attention from the
genuinely ill. However, that doesn’t mean you shouldn’t visit a balian if you’re genuinely
curious. Just do so in a manner that befits the experience: gently.
Consider the following before a visit:
¨ Make an appointment before visiting a balian.
¨ Know that English is rarely spoken.
¨ Dress respectfully (long trousers and a shirt, better yet a sarong and sash).
¨ Women should not be menstruating.
¨ Never point your feet at the healer.
¨ Bring an offering into which you have tucked the consulting fee, which will average
about 250,000Rp per person.
¨ Understand what you’re getting into: your treatment will be very public and probably
painful. It may include deep-tissue massage, being poked with sharp sticks or having
chewed herbs spat on you.
Finding a balian can take some work. Ask at your hotel, which can probably help with
making an appointment and providing a suitable offering for stashing your fee. Or con-
sider getting a referral from Made Surya (p155), who is an authority on Bali’s traditional
healers and offers one- and two-day intensive workshops on healing, magic, traditional
systems and history, which include visits to authentic balian. His website is an excellent
resource on visiting healers in Bali and he can also select an appropriate balian for you to
visit and accompany you there as liaison and translator.
Some Western medical professionals question whether serious medical issues can be
resolved by this type of healing, and patients should see a traditional healer in conjunc-
tion with a Western doctor if their ailment is serious.
160
walks through lush Bali landscape include 400,000Rp) Specialises in Balinese-style
identifiying and explaining medicinal and silver smithing courses. In one three-hour
cooking herbs and plants in their natural lesson you’ll make a finished piece. Classes
environment. Includes herbal drinks. can be geared to children.
Bali Nature Walk WALKiNg Pondok Pekak Library
(%0817 973 5914; https://balinaturewalks .net; tour & Learning Centre LANgUAgE
from US$25) Walks in isolated areas in the (Map p150; %0361-976194; www .pondokpekakli
Ubud region. Routes are customisable de- brary .com; Monkey Forest Rd; classes per hr from
pending on your desires. 100,000Rp; h9am-5pm Mon-Sat, 1-5pm Sun) On
the far side of the football field, this centre
Bali Bird Walks BiRdWATChiNg offers painting, dance, music and woodcarv-
(Map p156; %0361-975009; www .balibirdwalk . ing classes; some are geared to kids.
com; Jl Raya Campuan; tour incl lunch US$37;
h9am-12 .30pm Tue, Fri, Sat & Sun) Started by Wayan Pasek Sucipta MUSiC
Victor Mason more than three decades ago, (Map p150; %0361-970550; Eka’s homestay, Jl
this tour, ideal for keen birders, is still going Sriwedari 8; classes per hr 100,000Rp) Learn the
strong. On a gentle morning’s walk (from gamelan and bamboo drums from a master.
the long-closed Beggar’s Bush Bar) you may Wayan Karja Painting
see up to 30 of the 100-odd local species. ART
(%0361-977810; Jl Pacekan 18, Penestanan, off Jl
C Courses Raya Campuan; classes from 300,000Rp) Inten-
sive painting and drawing classes are run by
Ubud is the perfect place to develop your abstract artist Karja, whose studio is behind
artistic or language skills, or learn about his guesthouse, the Santra Putra (p170).
Balinese culture and cuisine. The range of
courses offered could keep you busy for a Nirvana Batik Course ART
year. With most classes you must book in (Map p150; %0361-975415; www .nirvanaku .com;
advance. Jl goutama 10, Nirvana Pension; classes from
UbUd & AroUnd UBUd
UbUd & AroUnd UBUd
485,000Rp; hclasses 10am-2pm Mon-Sat) Nyo-
oARMA CULTURAL TOUR man Suradnya teaches these highly regard-
UbUd & AroUnd COURSES
(Map p156; %0361-976659; www .armabali .com; ed batik courses.
Jl Raya Pengosekan; classes from US$25; h9am-
6pm) A cultural powerhouse offering classes Cooking
in painting, woodcarving, gamelan and ba- oBalinese Farm Cooking School COOKiNg
tik. Other courses include Balinese history, (%0812 3953 4446; http://balinesecooking .
Hinduism and architecture. net; Banjar Patas, Taro; 1-day course 400,000Rp)
Spend a day out in untrammelled country-
oMuseum Puri Lukisan ART side 18km north of Ubud and learn how to
(Map p150; www .museumpurilukisan .com; off cook Balinese food. This highly recommend-
Jl Raya Ubud; classes from 145,000Rp) One of ed cooking course is held in a village of lush
Ubud’s best museums teaches courses in gardens. Run by villagers passionate about
puppet-making, gamelan, offering-making, organic farming, students learn about local
Balinese dance, mask painting and much produce and foods. It’s all cleverly designed
more. Classes are taught on demand; make for tourists: herbs are grown in raised beds
arrangements at the museum ticket office. so there’s no stooping etc.
Threads of Life Indonesian oCasa Luna Cooking School COOKiNg
Textile Arts Center TEXTiLE (Map p150; %0361-973282; www .casalunabali .com;
(Map p150; %0361-972187; www .threadsoflife .com; honeymoon guesthouse, Jl Bisma; classes from
Jl Kajeng 24; classes from 75,000Rp; h10am-7pm) 450,000Rp) Regular cooking courses are of-
Textile appreciation courses in the gallery fered at Honeymoon Guesthouse and/or Casa
and educational studio last from one to Luna restaurant (p173). Half-day courses cov-
eight days. Some classes involve extensive er ingredients, cooking techniques and the
travel around Bali and should be considered cultural background of the Balinese kitchen
graduate level. (note, not all courses include a visit to the
Studio Perak JEWELLERY market). Each day has a different focus so
(Map p150; %081 2365 1809, 0361-974244; www . you can return for many days of instruction.
studioperak .com; Jl hanoman; lessons per 3hr Tours are also offered, including a good one
to the Gianyar night market.
161
Payogan
# \ # É # e 0 0 0.25 miles
500 m
5
4
#
# \
Bangkiang
SANGGINGAN É Sidem
Klub Walk
Kokos
#
ÿ Ridge
É
Sungai Blangsuh
Campuan SAKTI
Mozaic
# ú É
JIRayaSanggingan Sungai Wos SAMBAHAN Jl Suweta
É
CAMPUAN
# JlKaj eng UbUd & AroUnd UBUd
3
# UbUd & AroUnd COURSES
2
É
UBUD
É
KAJA
É
É
1
# KUTUH
+ ,
TAMAN UbUd & AroUnd UBUd & AROUNd highLighTS
Jl Raya Ubud
Sungai
Cerik
2 Walking Tour
Campuan Ridge
used for thatched roofs, slope away on either
START UBUD PALACE side. You can see the rice fields above Ubud
END UBUD PALACE folding over the hills in all directions.
LENGTH 8.5KM; 3½ HOURS
Continuing north along Campuan ridge
past the Klub Kokos lodging, the road im-
This walk passes over the lush river valley proves as it passes through paddy fields and
of Sungai Wos (Wos River), offering views of the village of 4Bangkiang Sidem; from
Gunung Agung and glimpses of small village its outskirts, an unsigned road heads west,
communities and rice fields. winding down to Sungai Cerik, then climbing
Start at 1Ubud Palace (p149) and walk steeply up to 5Payogan. From here you can
west on Jl Raya Ubud. At the confluence of walk south to the main road, and continue
Sungai Wos and Sungai Cerik (Cerik River) along Jl Raya Sanggingan, which seems to
is 2Campuan, which means ‘Where Two boast one or two more small boutiques and
Rivers Meet’. This area was among the first galleries every week. At Mozaic restaurant,
to attract Western painters in the 1930s and veer to the west onto trails that stay level
you’ll understand why from the still-lush with the rice fields as the main road drops
foliage and the soothing roar of the rivers. away. It’s a fantasyland of coursing water-
The walk leaves Jl Raya Campuan here at the ways and good views among the rice and
Warwick Ibah Luxury Villas. Enter the hotel villas. If you’re entranced with Ubud and want
driveway and take the path to the left, where to linger longer, many of the small bungalows
a walkway crosses the river to the high-profile are for rent by the month. When you come to
yet serene 3Pura Gunung Lebah (p152). the steep concrete steps, take them down to
From there follow the concrete path north, Campuan and back to Ubud.
climbing up onto the ridge between the two
rivers. Fields of elephant grass, traditionally
162
Mozaic Cooking Classes COOKiNg Guesthouses may be a bit larger and have
(Map p156; %0361-975768; www .mozaic-bali .com; amenities like swimming pools but are still
Jl Raya Sanggingan; classes from 900,000Rp) likely to be fairly intimate, often nestled
Learn cooking techniques at one of Bali’s amid rice fields and rivers. The best hotels
best restaurants. A full menu of classes is are often perched on the edges of the deep
taught, from casual to professional. river valleys, with superb views (although
even some budget places have amazing
Cafe Wayan Cooking Class COOKiNg views). Some provide shuttle service around
(Map p150; %0361-977565; www .lakaleke .com; Jl the area.
Nyuh Bulan; lesson 350,000Rp; hclasses 10am & Addresses in Ubud can be imprecise –
4pm) Near the south entrance to the Monkey but signage at the end of a road will often
Forest, the setting for this cooking class is list the names of all the places to stay. Away
lush and lovely. During the two-hour ses- from the main thoroughfares there are few
sion, students will learn how to prepare a streetlights and it can be challenging to find
basic Balinese meal. Afterwards, they’ll eat your way after dark. If walking, you’ll want
their work.
a torch (flashlight).
Due to its popularity and the lack (so far)
z Festivals & Events of an invasion of chain hotels, Ubud is the
One of the best places to see the many reli- one place on Bali where accommodation
gious and cultural events celebrated in Bali prices are rising sharply.
each year is the Ubud area. The tourist office
is unmatched for its comprehensive infor- 4 Jalan Raya Ubud & Around
mation on events each week.
Nirvana Pension gUESThOUSE $
oUbud Writers & Readers (Map p150; %0361-975415; www .nirvanaku .com; Jl
Festival LiTERATURE goutama 10; s with fan/air-con 250,000/350,000Rp,
(www .ubudwritersfestival .com; 1-day pass d with fan/air-con 350,000/450,000Rp; aW) Nir-
UbUd & AroUnd UBU
1,200,000Rp; hlate Oct/early Nov) Brings to- vana has alang-alang (thatched roofs), a
UbUd & AroUnd FEST d
gether scores of writers and readers from plethora of paintings, ornate doorways and
around the world in a five-day celebration of six rooms with modern bathrooms, all set in
writing – especially writing that touches on a shady, secluded locale next to a large family
Bali. A major event on the Ubud calendar. temple. Batik courses are also held here. It’s
Bali Spirit Festival dANCE, MUSiC a great location, back off popular Goutama.
(www .balispiritfestival .com; day pass US$150; Sania’s House gUESThOUSE $
UbUd & AroUnd UBUd ivALS & EvENTS
hMar/early Apr) A popular yoga, dance and (Map p150; %0361-975535; sania_house@yahoo .
music festival from the people behind the com; Jl Karna 7; r 300,000-600,000Rp; iWs)
Yoga Barn, a local yoga hub. There are hun- Pets wander about this family-run place,
dreds of workshops and concerts, plus a where the large, clear pool, huge terrace and
market and more. spacious rooms will have you howling at the
moon. The 29 rooms are basic but clean; the
4 Sleeping market is nearly next door, and souvenir
Ubud has the best and most appealing range stands crowd the entrance.
of places to stay on Bali, including fabled re-
sorts, artful guesthouses and charming, sim- d’Rompok House gUESThOUSE $
ple homestays. Choices can be bewildering, (Map p150; %0353-344837; drompokhouse@ya-
so give some thought to where you want to hoo .com; Jl hanoman 39; r incl breakfast 250,000-
stay (p171), especially if you are renting pri- 350,000Rp; aW) Tucked down a tight gang
vate accommodation via the web. (alley), the well-priced d’Rompok is more
Generally, Ubud offers good value for suave than your usual homestay, with five
money at any price level. Simple accom- large, modern rooms decorated with con-
modation within a family home compound temporary art. Go for one of the top-floor
is a cultural experience and costs around rooms with views of the rice fields.
US$25 per night. Ubud enjoys cool moun- Raka House gUESThOUSE $
tain air at night, so air-con isn’t necessary, (Map p150; %0361-976081; Jl Maruti; r 300,000-
and with your windows open, you’ll hear the 450,000Rp; aWs) Six bungalow-style
symphony of sounds off the rice fields and rooms cluster at the back of a compact fam-
river valleys. ily compound. You can soak your toes in a
163
# \
500 m
# e 0 0 0.25 miles
JI Raya Lungsiakan
# \
TEGALKUNING Bangkiang
SANGGINGAN Sidem
É
5
#
6
#
KEDEWATAN Sungai Blangsuh É
Sungai
Ayung
JI Raya Kedewatan JI Raya Sanggingan
É Campuan Ridge Walk
# Sungai Wos SAMBAHAN
4
# CAMPUAN Jl Kajeng
3
SAYAN Pura Gunung UbUd & AroUnd UBUd
Lebah UBUD
É
# Þ KAJA
JI Raya
# Jl Raya Ubud
2
É
Campuan
É
PENESTANAN JI Raya Penestanan Cerik + , # UbUd & AroUnd SLEEPiNgROUNd highLighTS
1
Sungai
UbUd & AroUnd UBUd & A
2 Walking Tour
Sungai Ayung Valley
downhill path before the gate to the rooms
START UBUD PALACE and follow the increasingly narrow tracks
END UBUD PALACE down. Locals will ask you for a tip of about
LENGTH 6.5KM; FOUR HOURS
10,000Rp to show you the way. As you follow
The wonders of Sungai Ayung (Ayung River) the river, you’ll encounter farmers asking for
are the focus of this outing, where you will money to cross their land; 5000Rp is a rea-
walk below the luxury hotels built to take sonable amount to give. There is no need to
advantage of the lush, tropical river valley. give money to any ‘guides’.
From 1Ubud Palace (p149), head west Following the rough trails north, along the
on Jl Raya Ubud, over the Campuan bridge eastern side of the Ayung, you traverse steep
(noting the picturesque old bridge), past the slopes, cross paddy fields and pass irrigation
expanded Pura Gunung Lebah below. Take the canals and tunnels. This is a highlight for
steep steps opposite the Hotel Tjampuhan up many people, as we’re talking about serious
to a road that bends left and winds across the tropical jungle here. You don’t need to follow
forested gully of Sungai Blangsuh (Blangsuh any specific trail as you head north along the
River) to the artists’ village of 2Penestan- river; instead just wander and see where your
an. West of Penestanan, head north on the mood takes you. After 1.5km you’ll reach the
small road (before the busy main road) that finishing point for many white-water rafting
curves around to Sayan. The 3Sayan Ter- trips – a good but steep trail goes from there
race (p154) was Colin McPhee’s home in the up to the main road at 5Kedewatan, where
1930s, as chronicled in his classic book A you can walk back to Ubud. Alternatively,
House in Bali. The views over the valley of the cross the river on the nearby bridge and take a
magnificent 4Sungai Ayung are superb. steep, 1km loop through tropical forest to the
The best place to get to the riverside is just untouristy village of 6 Tegalkuning. Return
north of the Sayan Terrace hotel – look for the to Ubud on Jl Raya Sanggingan.
164
WALKING WISELY IN UBUD
Walking in and around the Ubud region with its endless beauty, myriad fascinations and
delightful discoveries is a great pleasure and a superb reason to visit the area.
There are lots of interesting walks in the area to surrounding villages and through the
rice fields. You’ll frequently see artists at work in open rooms and on verandahs, and the
timeless tasks of rice cultivation continue alongside luxury villas.
A few points worth remembering to enjoy your walk:
Bring your own water In most places there are plenty of warung (food stalls) or small
shops selling snack foods and drinks but don’t risk dehydration between stops.
Gear up Bring a good hat, decent shoes and wet-weather gear for the afternoon show-
ers; long trousers are better for walking through thick vegetation.
Start early Try to begin at daybreak, before it gets too hot. The air also feels crisper and
you’ll catch birds and other wildlife before they spend the day in shadows. It’s also much
quieter before the day’s buzz begins.
Avoid tolls Some entrepreneurial rice farmers have erected little toll gates across their
fields. You can a) simply detour around them, or b) pay a fee (never, ever accede to more
than 10,000Rp).
Quit while ahead Should you tire don’t worry about reaching some goal – the point is
to enjoy your walk. Locals on motorbikes will invariably give you a ride home for around
30,000Rp.
small trapezoidal plunge pool. More choices
nearby. 4 North of Jalan Raya Ubud
oPadma Ubud gUESThOUSE $
Donald Homestay hOMESTAY $ (Map p150; %0823 4008 4680; www .padmaubud .
UbUd & AroUnd UBUd
UbUd & AroUnd UBUd
(Map p150; %0361-977156; Jl goutama; r 250,000- com; Jl Kajeng 13; r 300,000-550,000Rp; Ws)
UbUd & AroUnd SLEEPiNg
300,000Rp; aW) The four rooms – some There are 12 very private bungalows in a
fan-only – are in a nice back corner of this tropical garden with a pool here. Rooms are
well-located family compound. Even in the decorated with local crafts and the modern
heart of today’s madcap Ubud, you can still outdoor bathrooms have hot water. Nyoman
get to know a Balinese family and experi- Sudiarsa, a painter and family member, has
ence their life’s rhythms. a studio here and often shares his knowl-
edge with guests.
Puri Saraswati Bungalows hOTEL $$
(Map p150; %0361-975164; www .purisaraswati- Eka’s Homestay hOMESTAY $
ubud .com; Jl Raya Ubud; r US$60-80; aWs) (Map p150; %0361-970550; eka_sutawan@ya-
Very central and pleasant with lovely gar- hoo .com; Jl Sriwedari 8; r incl breakfast 150,000-
dens that open onto the Ubud Water Palace. 250,000Rp; W) Follow your ears to this nice
The 18 bungalow-style rooms are well back little family compound with seven basic
from Jl Raya Ubud, so it’s quiet. Some rooms rooms. Eka’s is the home of Wayan Pasek
are fan-only; interiors are simply furnished Sucipta, a teacher of Balinese music. It’s in a
but have richly carved details. nice sunny spot on a quiet road (well, except
during practice times).
Puri Saren Agung gUESThOUSE $$ Han Snel Siti Bungalows gUESThOUSE $
(Map p150; %0361-975057; Jl Suweta 1; r US$65- (Map p150; %0361-975699; www .sitibungalow .
80; a) Part of the Ubud royal family’s his- com; Jl Kajeng 3; r incl breakfast with fan/air-con
toric palace, seven rooms are tucked behind from 250,000/350,000Rp; aWs) Owned
the courtyard where the dance performanc- by the family of the late Han Snel, a well-
es are held. Accommodation is in tradition- known Dutch painter, Siti Bungalows is one
al Balinese pavilions, with big verandahs, of Ubud’s original guesthouses. While its
four-poster beds, antique furnishings and standards have slipped, it remains excellent
hot water. Give a royal wave to wandering value and a wonderful choice for those seek-
tourists from your patio. ing somewhere with character, a delightful
garden and eight spacious bungalows –
some of which overlook the river gorge.
165
4 Monkey Forest Road 4 Jalan Bisma
Jukung Hostel hOSTEL $ Batik Sekar Bali Guest House gUESThOUSE $
(Map p150; %0812 3633 9998; www .jukunghostel . (Map p150; %0361-975351; Jl Sugriwa 32; hr incl
com; Jl Monkey Forest 14; dm incl breakfast from breakfast from 300,000Rp; aW) In a primo loca-
100,000Rp; hcheck-in 1-10pm) You can’t get tion, this family homestay offers the timeless
more central than this hostel. Beds are in Ubud experience. Come and go past a charm-
six- and eight-bed dorms. The decor, which ing family as they make offerings. The four
looks like the leftovers from a fake distressed rooms have the basics plus cleanly tiled bath-
wood factory, extends to the kitchen. rooms and terraces. The hosts offer classes in
batik painting (300,000Rp per day).
oOka Wati Hotel hOTEL $$
(Map p150; %0361-973386; www .okawatihotel . Pondok Krishna gUESThOUSE $
com; off Monkey Forest Rd; r incl breakfast US$65- (Map p150; %0361-977126; kriz_tie@yahoo .com; Jl
120; aWs) Owner Oka Wati is a lovely lady Bisma; r from 250,000Rp; aW) This light and
who grew up near the Ubud Palace. Go for a airy family compound has seven rooms set
room in the original wing, where the decor among the frog-filled rice fields west of Jl
features vintage detail and some rooms have Bisma. The open common area with its sun-
views over a small rice field and river val- ny location is good for nailing that tan.
ley. All of the 20 rooms have large verandas,
where you’ll enjoy your choice of breakfast Happy Mango Tree hOSTEL $
(don’t miss the house-made yoghurt). (Map p150; %0812 3844 5498; www .thehappy
mangotree .com; Jl Bisma 27; dm/d from
Griya Jungutan gUESThOUSE $$ 100,000/250,000Rp; W) This bright and bubbly UbUd & AroUnd UBUd
(Map p150; %0361-975752; www .griyajungutan .com; hostel revels in its hippie vibe. Bright colours UbUd & AroUnd SLEEPiNg
off Monkey Forest Rd; r 300,000-600,000Rp; aW abound inside the rooms and out on the var-
s) Overlooking a small river valley in the ious terraces, some of which have rice-field
very heart of Ubud, Griya Jungutan has good- views. Mixed dorms have four or five beds;
value rooms well away from the traffic of cen- doubles come with names (and matching de-
UbUd & AroUnd UBUd
tral Ubud down a small gang. Rooms come cor) such as Love Shack and Ceiling Museum.
in several flavours: the cheapest are fan-only, There’s a social bar and a restaurant, too.
the best have terraces with lush views.
Ni Nyoman Warini Bungalows hOMESTAY $
Warsa’s Garden Bungalows gUESThOUSE $$ (Map p150; %0361-978364; Jl hanoman; r
(Map p150; %0361-971548; http://warsagarden- 200,000-350,000Rp; aW) There’s a whole
bungalows .com; Monkey Forest Rd; r 400,000- pod of simple family compounds with
550,000Rp; aWs) A good-sized pool with rooms for rent back on a little footpath off Jl
fountains enlivens this comfy but simple Hanoman. It’s quiet, and without even try-
place in the heart of Monkey Forest action. ing you’ll find yourself enjoying the rhythms
The 23 rooms are reached through a tradi- of family life. The eight rooms here have hot
tional family-compound entrance. Some water and traditional bamboo furniture.
have tubs; some are fan-only.
Puri Asri 2 gUESThOUSE $
Sri Bungalows gUESThOUSE $$
(Map p150; %0361-975394; www .sribungalowsub (Map p150; %0361-973210; Jl Sukma 59; r 200,000-
ud .com; Monkey Forest Rd; r 500,000-1,200,000Rp; 350,000Rp; aWs) Work your way through
aiWs) Popular for its iconic views of rice a classic family compound and you’ll find
fields (you think you hear it growing but seven bungalow-style rooms with views of a
really it’s the sound of your soul decom- ravine. It’s a fabulous deal and rooms come
pressing). Be sure to get one of the comfy with hot water. Cool off in the nice pool.
rooms (choose from 34) with relaxing loung- Biangs hOMESTAY $
ers that command the views. (Map p150; %0361-976520; wah_oeboed@ya
Lumbung Sari gUESThOUSE $$ hoo .com; Jl Sukma 28; r with fan/air-con from
(Map p150; %0361-976396; www .lumbungsari .com; 100,000/300,000Rp; aW) In a little garden,
Monkey Forest Rd; r 700,000-1,300,000Rp; ai Biangs (meaning ‘mama’) homestay has
Ws) Artwork decorates the walls at the styl- six well-maintained rooms, with hot water.
ish Sari, which has a nice breakfast bale (tra- Three generations of the family make this a
ditional pavilion) by the pool. The 14 rooms genuine family homestay. Jl Sukma is one of
have tubs in elegant bathrooms. Ubud’s most atmospheric streets.
©Lone-
166 IVOHA/ SHUTTERSTOCK © BOIARKINA MARINA / SHUTTERSTOCK ©
1. Sacred Monkey Forest Sanctuary
Home to over 600 grey-haired and light-fingered long-
tailed macaques - watch your possessions! (p154)
2. Yoga Retreats
Ubud has a number of famous yoga centres and spas
offering yoga classes. (p157)
3. Balinese Dancers
There are more than a dozen different dances in Bali.
Temple performances can last several hours. (p350)
4. Pura Taman Saraswati
Hindu temple decorated with carvings honouring Dewi
Saraswati, goddess of wisdom and the arts. (p149) SYTILIN PAVEL / SHUTTERSTOCK ©
167
AFFENDY SOETO / SHUTTERSTOCK ©
168
With the bottom of Jl Bisma now linked
FINDING LONG-TERM to Monkey Forest Rd, there is a lot of de-
ACCOMMODATION velopment near the pretty river valley. This
There are many houses and flats you comfortable hotel gets all the details right.
can rent or share in the Ubud area. For The eight villas have alluring private pools,
local information about options, check full kitchens and gleaming hardwood floors.
the noticeboards at Pondok Pekak Service is good and the value is excellent.
Library (p160) and Bali Bunda (p173).
Also look in the free Bali Advertiser 4 Padangtegal & Tebesaya
(www.baliadvertiser.biz) newspaper and oFamily Guest House
hOMESTAY $
the local website www.banjartamu.org. (Map p150; %0361-974054; www .familyubud .com;
Prices start at about US$300 a month Jl Sukma 39; r incl breakfast with fan/air-con from
and climb rapidly as you add amenities.
250,000/300,000Rp; aW) There’s a bit of
bustle from the busy family at this charm-
Ina Inn gUESThOUSE $ ing homestay. The eight rooms have modern
(Map p150; %0361-971093; http://inainnubud . comforts in a traditional shell. Some also
com; Jl Bisma; r 300,000-400,000Rp; Ws) include tubs; and at the top, they have a bal-
Stroll the thickly planted grounds and enjoy cony with a valley view.
views across Ubud and the rice fields. The 12
rooms (some fan-cooled) are basic but clean Aji Lodge hOMESTAY $
and comfy. The pool is ideal after a day of (Map p150; %0361-973255; ajilodge11@yahoo .com;
walking. If you want to take the plunge clos- off Jl Sukma; r 200,000-300,000Rp; W) A group
er to your bed, rooms have tubs. of comfortable family compounds lines a
footpath east of Jl Sukma. Enjoy one of six
Adipana Bungalow gUESThOUSE $$ rooms here that are down the hill by the riv-
(Map p150; %0817 978 8934; www .adipanabunga er for the full bedtime symphony of birds,
low .com; Jl Jembawan 27; r incl breakfast 600,000Rp; bugs and critters. All rooms have terraces.
UbUd & AroUnd UBUd
UbUd & AroUnd UBUd
aWs) An appealing two-storey guesthouse,
the six rooms here give you a choice of having Artini Cottages 1 hOMESTAY $
UbUd & AroUnd SLEEPiNg
a terrace with direct access to the pool or a (Map p150; %0361-975348; www .artinibaligroups .
balcony with airy views of bamboo-bedecked com; Jl hanoman; r from 400,000Rp; W) The Art-
Ubud. There are some flashes of style and ini family runs a small empire of good-value
kitchen facilities in each unit. guesthouses on Jl Hanoman. This, the orig-
inal, is in an ornate family compound with
Sama’s Cottages gUESThOUSE $$ many flowers. The three bungalows have hot
(Map p150; %0361-973481; www .samascottages water and large bathtubs. The more upscale
ubud .com; Jl Bisma; s with fan/air-con 520,000/ Artini 2, with views and a pool, is opposite.
630,000Rp, d with fan/air-con 575,000/700,000Rp;
aWs) Terraced down a hill, this lovely lit- oMatahari Cottages gUESThOUSE $$
tle hideaway has 12 bungalow-style rooms (Map p150; %0361-975459; www .matahariubud .
with lashings of Balinese style layered on com; Jl Jembawan; r 400,000-800,000Rp; aWs)
absolute simplicity. The oval pool feels like S This whimsical place has 15 flamboyant,
a jungle oasis. Ask for low-season discounts. themed rooms, including the ‘Batavia Prin-
Komaneka at Bisma BOUTiQUE hOTEL $$$ cess’ and the ‘Indian Pasha’. The library is a
(Map p156; %0361-971933; http://bisma .komane- vision out of a 1920s fantasy. It also boasts
ka .com; Jl Bisma; r from US$220; aiWs) Set a self-proclaimed ‘jungle jacuzzi’, an upscale
well back in the rice fields near the river val- way to replicate the old Bali tradition of riv-
ley, this newish resort defines posh with a er-bathing. There’s a multicourse breakfast
heavy overlay of Bali style. Accommodation and high tea elaborately served on silver.
ranges from suites to large three-bedroom
villas for 17 units total. The compound ex- 4 Sambahan & Sakti
udes grace, along with thoughtful touches Bali Asli Lodge hOMESTAY $
ranging from Apple TVs loaded with movies (Map p156; %0361-970537; www .baliaslilodge .com;
to freshly baked cookies. Jl Suweta; r incl breakfast from 300,000Rp; W) Es-
Ladera Villa Ubud hOTEL $$$ cape the central Ubud hubbub here. Made is
(Map p150; %0361-978127; http://laderavillaubud . your friendly host, and her five rooms are in
com; Jl Bisma; villa from 1,500,000Rp; aWs) traditional Balinese stone-and-brick houses
169
set in verdant gardens. There are terraces (produce is used in the cafe). Some rooms
where you can let the hours pass; interiors are in simple two-storey blocks; others are
are clean and comfy. Town is a 15-minute in vintage traditional houses brought here
walk away. from across Indonesia. Swasti offers a mix
of Balinese classes and workshops. Its green
Ketut’s Place gUESThOUSE $$ cred out-Ubud’s Ubud.
(Map p156; %0361-975304; www .ketutsplace .
com; Jl Suweta 40; r incl breakfast with fan/air- Alam Indah hOTEL $$
con from 500,000/600,000Rp; aiWs) A (Map p156; %0361-974629; www .alamindahbali .
step up from the usual temple compound com; Jl Nyuh Bulan; r incl breakfast US$65-140;
homestays, here the 16 rooms all have artful aWs) Just south of the Monkey Forest,
accents and river-valley views. A dramatic this isolated and spacious resort has 16
pool shimmers down the hillside. Rooms rooms that are beautifully finished in natu-
range from basic with fans to deluxe ver- ral materials to traditional designs. The Wos
sions with air-con and bathtubs. Valley views are entrancing, especially from
the multilevel pool area. There’s a free shut-
Ubud Sari Health Resort gUESThOUSE $$ tle into central Ubud.
(Map p156; %0361-974393; www .ubudsari .com; Jl
Kajeng; r from US$45; aWs) Overlooking a Kertiyasa Bungalows gUESThOUSE $$
bubbling stream and surrounded by forest, (Map p156; %0361-971377; www .kertiyasabunga
the 21 rooms at this noted health spa have a low .com; Jl Nyuh Bulan; r US$38-80; aWs) Set
name that says it all: Zen Village. The plants in a quiet location, this recently renovated
in the gardens are labelled for their medic- place has 15 rooms ranging from garden-view
inal qualities, and the cafe serves organic, standards to private, very large rooms. The UbUd & AroUnd UBUd
vegetarian fare. Guests can use the health meandering pool is surrounded by beautiful
facilities, including the sauna and whirlpool. plantings.
Klub Kokos gUESThOUSE $$ Saren Indah Hotel hOTEL $$
(Map p156; %0361-971471; www .sarenhotel .com; Jl
(Map p156; %0361-849 3502; www .klubkokos .com; Nyuh Bulan; r US$55-85; aWs) South of the
UbUd & AroUnd UBUd
r incl breakfast US$54-100; aiWs) A beau- Monkey Forest, this 15-room hotel sits in the
tiful 1.5km walk north along the Campuan middle of rice fields – be sure to get a 2nd-
UbUd & AroUnd SLEEPiNg
ridge, Klub Kokos is a ridge-top hideaway floor room to enjoy the views. Rooms have
with a big pool and eight appealing bunga- classic Balinese charm; better ones have
low-style rooms. It’s reachable by car from fridges and stylish tubs.
the north; call for directions. There’s a cafe
with rice-field views.
4 Pengosekan
Wapa di Ume RESORT $$$
(Map p156; %0361-973178; www .wapadiume .com; Casa Ganesha Hotel hOTEL $
Jl Suweta; r incl breakfast from US$170, villas from (Map p156; %0361-971488; www .casaganesha .
US$260; aiWs) Located a gentle 2.5km com; Jl Raya Pengosekan; r US$30; aWs) A
uphill from the centre, this elegant com- great-value budget choice in a great location
pound enjoys engrossing verdant views just south of Ubud’s centre, this 24-room
across rice fields. New and old styles mix in hotel has two-storey blocks built around a
the 33 large units; go for a villa with a view. pool. Rooms are straightforward and have
Service is superb yet relaxed. Listening to terraces or balconies. There are pretty rice
gamelan practice echoing across the fields fields nearby.
at night is quite magical. There’s a shuttle oAgung Raka BOUTiQUE hOTEL $$
bus on the hour to central Ubud. (Map p156; %0361-975757; www .baliagungrakare
sort .com; Jl Raya Pengosekan; r from US$50, bun-
4 Nyuhkuning galow from US$80; aWs) This 43-room hotel
oSwasti Eco Cottages gUESThOUSE $$ sprawls out across picture-perfect rice fields
(Map p156; %0361-974079; www .baliswasti .com; just south of the centre of Ubud. Rooms are
Jl Nyuh Bulan; r incl breakfast with fan/air-con from large and suitably Balinese in motif but the
650,000/750,000Rp; aiWs) S A five- real stars are the bungalows set back on a
minute walk from the south entrance to the rice terrace amid palm trees. You can live
Monkey Forest, this compound has large the life of a duck as you hear the nighttime
grounds that feature an organic garden symphony of bugs and birds.
170
Tegal Sari hOTEL $$ waters and rice-clad hills of the Wos Valley,
(Map p156; %0361-973318; www .tegalsari-ubud . the Ibah offers refined luxury in 17 spacious,
com; Jl Raya Pengosekan; r 330,000-990,000Rp; stylish, individual suites and villas that com-
aiWs) Though literally a stone’s throw bine ancient and modern details. Each could
from the hectic main road, here rice be a feature in an interior-design magazine.
fields (along with ducks) miraculously The swimming pool is set into the hillside
materialise. Go for a superdeluxe cottage amid gardens and lavish stone carvings.
(770,000Rp) with bathtub looking out to
soul-calming bucolic views. Units in the oComo Uma Ubud BOUTiQUE hOTEL $$$
new brick buildings, on the other hand, are (%0361-972448; www .comohotels .com; Jl Raya
stark. It has two pools, including one on the Sanggingan; r from US$290, villa from US$390;
rooftop, and a yoga space. aWs) One of Ubud’s most attractive prop-
erties, the 46 rooms here come in a variety of
ARMA Resort hOTEL $$$ sizes but all have a relaxed naturalistic style
(Map p156; %0361-976659; www .armabali .com; that goes well with the gorgeous views over
Jl Raya Pengosekan; r from US$120, villas from the gardens and the river valley beyond. Ser-
US$250; aiWs) Get full Balinese cultural vice and amenities like the restaurant are
immersion at the hotel enclave of the ARMA superb.
compound. The expansive property has a
large library and elegant gardens. The 10 4 Penestanan
villas come with private pools. The fabulous
namesake museum is on the grounds. Santra Putra gUESThOUSE $
(Map p156; %0361-977810; www .facebook .com/
4 Peliatan santraputraKAS; Jl Pacekan 18, off Jl Raya Cam-
puan; r incl breakfast 300,000-400,000Rp; W)
oMaya Ubud hOTEL $$$ Run by internationally exhibited abstract
(%0361-977888; www .mayaubud .com; Jl artist I Wayan Karja – whose studio-gal-
gunung Sari, Peliatan; r/villa incl breakfast from lery (p160) is also on-site – this place has 11
UbUd & AroUnd UBUd
UbUd & AroUnd UBUd
US$280/440; aiWs) One of the most big, open, airy rooms with hot water. Enjoy
beautiful large hotels around Ubud, this paddy-field views from all vantage points.
UbUd & AroUnd SLEEPiNg
massive 10-hectare property is superbly inte- Painting and drawing classes are offered by
grated into its surrounding river valley and the artist.
rice fields. The 108 rooms and villas have
the sort of open and light feeling combined Roam dESigN hOTEL $$
with traditional materials that defines the (Map p156; %0361-479 2884; www .roam .co/
concept of ‘Bali style’. The infinity pool over- places/ubud; Jl Raya Penestanan; r per week from
looking the jungle is dramatic, as is the spa. US$500; aW) Set in an old renovated apart-
ment, this hipster co-living hotel has your
classic motel configuration but with rock-
4 Campuan & Sanggingan and-roll panache. The 24 rooms are com-
Hotel Tjampuhan hOTEL $$ fortable and include fridges and fast wi-fi.
(Map p156; %0361-975368; www .tjampuhan-bali . The rooftop deck has sunloungers, a healthy
com; Jl Raya Campuan; r incl breakfast US$110- cafe and a yoga space. The target market are
180; aiWs) This venerable 67-room place ‘global nomads’, who set up shop in Ubud
overlooks the confluence of Sungai Wos and and design an app or two.
Campuan. The influential German artist Melati Cottages hOTEL $$
Walter Spies lived here in the 1930s, and his (Map p156; %0361-974650; www .melati-cottages .
former home, which sleeps four people, is com; Jl Raya Penestanan; r US$35-60; aW) Set
part of the hotel. Bungalow-style units spill back among the rice fields, the deeply shad-
down the hill and enjoy mesmerising valley ed Melati has 22 simple rooms in two-storey,
and temple views. bungalow-style buildings. All have porches
The historic house where Spies lived can for listening to the sounds of the fields and
be rented for 3,000,000Rp a night. taking in the cool night air. Top-floor guests
oWarwick Ibah Luxury Villas hOTEL $$$ enjoy good views.
(Map p156; %0361-974466; www .warwickibah .com; Villa Nirvana BOUTiQUE hOTEL $$
off Jl Raya Campuan; ste/villa incl breakfast from (Map p156; %0361-979419; www .villanirvanabali .
US$170/275; aWs) Overlooking the rushing com; Penestanan; r incl breakfast US$120-200;
171
WHERE TO STAY IN UBUD
Do you want to be in the centre or the quiet countryside? Have a rice-field view or enjoy
a room with stylish design? Choices are myriad, especially on sites like airbnb.com and
homeaway.com where everything seems to be ‘close to Ubud’, even when the ‘10-minute
drive’ actually takes half an hour. The main areas of accommodation in Ubud are as follows.
Central Ubud
This original heart of Ubud has a vast range of places to rest your weary head and you’ll
enjoy a location that will cut down on the need for long walks or ‘transport’. If you’re near Jl
Raya Ubud, don’t settle for a room with noise from the main drag. Small and quiet streets
to the east of the main crossroads, including Jl Karna, Jl Maruti and Jl Goutama, have
numerous family-style homestays. North of Jl Raya Ubud, streets like Jl Kajeng and Jl
Suweta offer a timeless tableau, with kids playing in the streets and many fine homestays.
Monkey Forest Rd has a high concentration of lodgings; go for one well off the traf-
fic-choked road. Jl Bisma runs into a plateau of rice fields. New places are popping up all
the time, especially down at the south end where a path links to Monkey Forest Rd.
Padangtegal & Tebesaya
A good place to browse. East of central Ubud, but still conveniently located, Padangtegal
has several budget lodgings along Jl Hanoman. A little further east, the quiet village of
Tebesaya comprises little more than its main street, Jl Sukma, which runs between two
streams. Cute homestays can be found down small footpaths. Also check out Jl Sugriwa UbUd & AroUnd UBUd
and Jl Jembawan. UbUd & AroUnd SLEEPiNg
Sambahan & Sakti
Going north from Jl Raya Ubud, you are soon in rolling terraces of rice fields. Tucked
away here you’ll find interesting and often luxurious hotels, yet you can have a beautiful
UbUd & AroUnd UBUd
walk to the centre in well under an hour.
Nyuhkuning
A popular area just south of the Monkey Forest, Nyuhkuning has some creative guest-
houses and hotels, yet is not a long walk to the centre.
Pengosekan
Immediately south of the centre, Pengosekan is good for shopping, dining and activities
like yoga.
Campuan & Sanggingan
The long sloping road that takes its names from these two communities west of the
centre has a number of posh properties on its east side that overlook a lush river valley.
Penestanan
Just west of the Campuan bridge, steep Jl Raya Penestanan branches off to the left, and
climbs up and around to Penestanan, a large plateau of (fast disappearing) rice fields
and lodgings. Rooms and bungalows amid the rice are pitched at those seeking longer-
term lodgings. Stroll the narrow paths and you’ll find options at all prices. You can also
get here via a steep climb up a set of concrete stairs off Jl Raya Campuan.
Sayan & Ayung Valley
Two kilometres west of Ubud, the fast-flowing Sungai Ayung has carved out a deep valley,
its sides sculpted into terraced paddy fields or draped in thick rainforest. Overlooking
this verdant valley are some of Bali’s best resorts.
aWs) You may find nirvana reaching steps from the east. The six-villa compound,
Villa Nirvana: access is along a 150m path designed by local architect Awan Sukhro
through a small river valley from the west or Edhi, is a serene retreat. Rates include shut-
along a rice-field path from the top of steep tle service and free loan of a mobile phone.
172
US$580/800; aW) Epic doesn’t even begin
4 Sayan & Ayung Valley to describe the extent to which this stun-
Taman Bebek hOTEL $$ ning new resort soars. Sprawling over 5.5
(Map p156; %0361-975385; www .tamanbebek- hectares, it’s the size of a small village, and
bali .com; Jl Raya Sayan; r 750,000-1,600,000Rp; set in a spectacular valley enclosed by rice
aWs) A spectacular, verdant location fields. The stars of the show are the villas on
overlooking the Sayan Valley may keep the riverfront, but you can’t go wrong in any
you glued to your terrace throughout the of the villas or suites.
day. Four suites and seven villas here wrap Kubu (p177) restaurant is worth a visit
around the Sayan Terrace (p154) and enjoy even if you’re not staying here, both for its
a stylish common area. All have understated scenic riverfront location and its five-course
yet classic Balinese wood-and-thatch archi- degustation menu.
tecture as designed by the late Made Wijaya,
the legendary garden designer. 5 Eating
Ubud’s cafes and restaurants are some of the
Bambu Indah BOUTiQUE hOTEL $$$
(%0361-977922; www .bambuindah .com; Banjar best in Bali. Local and expat chefs produce a
Baung; r incl breakfast US$200-500; Ws) S bounty of authentic Balinese dishes, as well
Famed expat entrepreneur John Hardy sold as inventive Asian and other internation-
his jewellery company in 2007 and became al cuisines. Healthy menus abound. Cafes
a hotelier. On a ridge near Sayan and his be- with good coffee seem almost as common
loved Sungai Ayung, he’s assembled a com- as frangipani blossoms. Be sure to be seated
pound of 100-year-old royal Javanese houses by 9pm or your options will narrow rapidly.
and a stunning Sumbanese thatched house; Book dinner tables in high season.
each space is furnished with style and flair.
Several outbuildings create a timeless village 5 Jalan Raya Ubud & Around
with underpinnings of luxury. Free shuttle
into central Ubud. Gelato Secrets gELATERiA $
UbUd & AroUnd UBUd
UbUd & AroUnd UBUd
(Map p150; www .gelatosecrets .com; Monkey Forest
UbUd & AroUnd E ATiNg
Amandari hOTEL $$$ Rd; from 20,000Rp; h10am-10 .30pm) This temple
(%0361-975333; www .amanresorts .com; Kede- to frozen goodness has fresh flavours made
watan; ste incl breakfast from US$850; aiWs) from local fruits and spices, such as dragon-
In Kedewatan village, the storied Amandari fruit cinnamon or cashew black sesame.
does everything with the charm and grace Bali Bunda Shop
of a classical Balinese dancer. Superb views MARKET $
over the jungle and down to the river – the (Map p150; www .balibuda .com; Jl Raya Ubud;
30m green-tiled swimming pool seems to h8am-8pm) The prepared food and grocery
drop right over the edge – are just some of shop for Bali Bunda is a great source for
the inducements. The 30 private pavilions organic produce and groceries; its baked
may prove inescapable. goods are excellent.
Four Seasons Resort hOTEL $$$ Anomali Coffee COFFEE $
(%0361-977577; www .fourseasons .com; Sayan; ste (Map p150; Jl Raya Ubud; snacks from 20,000Rp;
from US$700, villas from US$900; aiWs) Set h7am-11pm; W) Local hipsters get their java
below the valley rim, the curved open-air re- from this place which is, well, from Java.
ception area looks like a Cinerama screen of Indonesia’s answer to Starbucks takes its
Ubud beauty. Many villas have private pools (excellent) coffee seriously and so does the
and all share the same amazing views and young crowd that gathers here. .
striking modern design. At night you hear Kué CAFE $
just the water rushing below from any of the (Map p150; %976 7040; Jl Raya Ubud; meals
60 units (each of which is very sizeable). 30,000-80,000Rp; h8am-9pm; aW) A top or-
ganic chocolate shop with a couple of stools
4 Kedewatan downstairs; climb the side stairs for a love-
ly cafe that sits above the road chaos. Good
oMandapa, baked items as well as juices, coffees, sand-
a Ritz-Carlton Reserve viLLA $$$ wiches, organic wraps and Indo mains make
(Map p156; %0361-4792777; www .ritzcarlton . it a great casual stop.
com; Jl Kedewatan; ste/villa incl breakfast from
173
oHujon Locale iNdONESiAN $$ h8am-10pm; vc) S This high-concept res-
(Map p150; %0361-849 3092; www .hujanlocale . taurant brings a bit of Hollywood to Ubud.
com; Jl Sriwedari 5; mains 110,000-200,000Rp; The dishes are relentlessly healthy but also
hnoon-10pm; W) From the team of the criti- creative; served artfully and sourced locally.
cally acclaimed Mama San in Seminyak, Hu- Tables are now on two levels after a post-fire
jon Locale is one of Ubud’s most enjoyable reconstruction. It has a deli counter for pic-
restaurants. The menu mixes traditional In- nics and fresh snacks. BYOB; kids menu.
donesian dishes with modern, creative flair, Fair Warung Balé
iNTERNATiONAL $$
from Achenese prawn curry to slow-braised (Map p150; %0361-975370; www .fairfuturefounda-
Sumatran lamb curry. The setting within a tion .org; Jl Sriwedari 6; mains 50,000-110,000Rp;
chic colonial-style two-storey bungalow is h11am-10pm) S Mellow by day, hot spot by
made for a balmy evening. Great cocktails.
night; there are often queues in the evenings
Bali Bunda CAFE $$ to get a table at this attractive upstairs res-
(Map p150; %0361-976324; www .balibuda .com; Jl taurant. It’s run by the Swiss-based NGO,
Jembawan 1; mains 45,000-80,000Rp; h7 .30am- Fair Future Foundation, and 100% of pro-
10pm; v) This breezy upper-floor place of- ceeds go to healthcare in the local communi-
fers a full range of vegetarian jamu (health ty. Food ranges from local curries to freshly
tonics), salads, sandwiches, savoury crepes, baked baguettes with tuna tartare.
excellent thin-crust pizzas and gelato. The Black Beach
bulletin board downstairs is packed with iTALiAN $$
idiosyncratic Ubud notices. (Map p150; %0361-971353; www .blackbeach .asia;
Jl hanoman; mains 50,000-120,000Rp; h11am-
Casa Luna iNdONESiAN $$ 10pm) They beat their own dough and then UbUd & AroUnd UBUd
(Map p150; %0361-977409; www .casalunabali . let it slowly rise before turning it into good
com; Jl Raya Ubud; meals from 50,000Rp; h8am- thin-crust pizza. If that doesn’t sway you, the
10pm) Enjoy creative Indonesian-focused tasty pasta might. Views from the upstairs
dishes such as addictive bamboo skewers dining area are nice but what really draws
UbUd & AroUnd UBUd
of minced seafood satay (try to pick out the in the intelligentsia is the regular showing
UbUd & AroUnd E ATiNg
dozen or so spices). Goods from its well- of art-house movies on the terrace.
known bakery are also a must. The owner,
Janet deNeefe, is the force behind the laud- 5 North of Jalan Raya Ubud
ed Ubud Writers & Readers Festival (p162).
Warung Ibu Oka BALiNESE $$
Spice iNdONESiAN $$ (Map p150; %0361-976345; Jl Suweta; mains
(Map p150; %0361-479 2420; www .spicebali . from 55,000Rp; h11am-6pm) Opposite Ubud
com; Jl Raya Ubud 23; mains 60,000-125,000Rp; Palace, lunchtime crowds are waiting for
hnoon-11pm) Coming to a mall near you, this one thing: Balinese-style roast babi guling
high-concept cafe is the prototype for a new (suckling pig). Order a spesial to get the best
dining concept by Ubud chef Chris Salans. cut. Plenty of tourist hype means that prices
No matter, the open kitchen cooks up tasty are more than double the norm.
takes on uncommon Indonesian dishes on a
changing menu. It’s very casual and there’s a 5 Monkey Forest Road
big emphasis on the bar.
oThree Monkeys FUSiON $$
Il Giardino iTALiAN $$ (Map p150; %0361-975554; www .threemonkey-
(Map p150; %0361-974271; www .ilgiardinobali . scafebali .com; Monkey Forest Rd; mains 60,000-
com; Jl Kajeng 3, han Snel Siti Bungalows; mains 185,000Rp; h8am-10pm; W) Order a kaf-
60,000-150,000Rp; h5-10 .30pm; W) This ro- fir-lime mojito and settle back amid the frog
mantic outdoor Italian restaurant has a symphony of the rice fields. Add the glow of
beautiful setting overlooking a lily pond. It’s tiki torches for a magical effect. By day there
at the studio/gallery and namesake bunga- are sandwiches, salads and gelato. At night
lows of the late Dutch painter Han Snel. It there’s a fusion menu of Asian classics.
does aperitivo, wood-fired pizzas, home-
made pastas and hearty Italian mains. Watercress CAFE $$
(Map p150; %0361-976127; www .watercressubud .
Clear FUSiON $$ com; Monkey Forest Rd; mains 90,000-150,000Rp;
(Map p150; %0361-889 4437; www .facebook .com/ h7 .30am-11pm; W) The Ubud version of the
ClearCafeUbud/; Jl hanoman 8; meals US$4-15; Canggu original attracts a young fashion-
174
able crowd for quality Western food. It has their famous charcuterie for tasty brunches
a stylish double-level open-air setting, does ranging from breakfast burgers and banh mi
creative all-day breakfasts, and offers a to pulled-pork brioche, all in an open-fronted
menu leaning towards modern Australian. cafe. A mandatory Slow Food stop.
Fresh salads, awesome fish burgers with
crispy chat potatoes, king prawn linguine Melting Wok ASiAN $$
and charred lamb chops. (Map p150; %0821 5366 6087; Jl goutama; mains
from 50,000Rp; h10am-11pm Tue-Sun) Pan-
Asian fare pleases the masses at this very
5 Jalan Dewi Sita & Jalan popular open-air restaurant on the Gouta-
Goutama ma strip. Curries, noodle dishes, tempeh and
East of Monkey Forest Rd, a short stroll a lot more fill a menu that makes decisions
takes you into Ubud’s best selection of tough. Desserts take on a bit of colonial fla-
restaurants. vour: French accents abound. The service is
relaxed but efficient. Booking advised.
Juice Ja Cafe CAFE $
(Map p150; %0361-971056; Jl dewi Sita; mains from Cafe Havana LATiN AMERiCAN $$
30,000Rp; h8am-11pm; W) S Glass of spiruli- (Map p150; %0361-972973; Jl dewi Sita; mains from
na? Dash of wheat grass with your papaya 60,000Rp; h8am-11pm) All that’s missing is
juice? Organic fruits and vegetables go into Fidel. Actually, the decrepitude of its name-
the food at this funky bakery-cafe. Little bro- sake city is also missing from this smart and
chures explain the provenance of items such stylish cafe. Dishes exude Latin flair, such as
as the organic cashew nuts. Enjoy the patio. the tasty pork numbers, but expect surprises
such as the fab crème brûlée oatmeal in the
Tutmak Cafe CAFE $ mornings. There’s nightly live music 7pm to
(Map p150; %0361-975754; Jl dewi Sita; mains 10pm (salsa dancing Wednesdays).
40,000-100,000Rp; h8am-11pm; W) This
smart, breezy multilevel terrace restaurant Kafe Batan Waru iNdONESiAN $$
UbUd & AroUnd UBUd
UbUd & AroUnd UBUd
is a popular place for a refreshing drink or (Map p150; %0361-977528; Jl dewi Sita; mains
UbUd & AroUnd E ATiNg
something to munch on from the menu of from 60,000Rp) This cafe serves consistently
Indo classics. The nasi campur (rice with a good Indonesian food. Tired of mie goreng
choice of side dishes) with fresh tuna is one made from instant noodles? With noodles
of Ubud’s finest. made fresh daily, this version celebrates a
lost art. Western dishes include sandwiches
Dewa Warung iNdONESiAN $ and salads. Bebek betutu (smoked duck) and
(Map p150; Jl goutama; meals 20,000-30,000Rp; babi guling can be ordered in advance.
h8am-11pm) When it rains, the tin roof
sounds like a tap-dance convention and the oLocavore FUSiON $$$
bare lightbulbs sway in the breeze. A little (Map p150; %0361-977733; www .restaurant-
garden surrounds tables a few steps above locavore .com; Jl dewi Sita; 5-/7-course menu
the road where diners tuck into plates of siz- 675,000/775,000Rp; hnoon-2pm & 6-10pm;
zling fresh Indo fare. Cheap Bintang. paW) The foodie haven in Ubud, this
temple to locally sourced foods is the town’s
Waroeng Bernadette iNdONESiAN $$ toughest table. Book weeks in advance.
(Map p150; %0821 4742 4779; Jl goutama; mains Meals are degustation and can top out at
from 60,000Rp; h11am-11pm; W) It’s not called nine courses; expect the joy to last three
the ‘Home of Rendang’ for nothing. The west hours. Chefs Eelke Plasmeijer and Ray Adri-
Sumatran classic dish of long-marinated ansyah in the open kitchen are magicians;
meats (beef is the true classic, but here there’s enjoy the show (and go for the wine pair-
also a veggie jackfruit variety) is pulled off ings). Up the hill, try Locavore to Go, which
with colour and flair. Other dishes have a serves a great brunch, with the likes of
zesty zing missing from lacklustre versions breakfast burgers and banh mi. It has excel-
served elsewhere. The elevated dining room lent picnic fare.
is a vision of kitsch.
Locavore to Go CAFE $$ oPica SOUTh AMERiCAN $$$
(Map p150; %0361-971660; Jl dewi Sita; mains
(Map p150; %0361-977733; Jl dewi Sita; mains 160,000-300,000Rp; h11am-10pm Tue-Sun)
50,000-120,000Rp; h8 .30am-6pm; W) From the Much-acclaimed, the South American cui-
same team as critically acclaimed Locavore sine here is one of Ubud’s culinary high-
down the road, this much simpler affair uses
175
lights thanks to the young couple behind WALKING FOR ORGANIC
this excellent restaurant. From the open TREATS
kitchen, dishes making creative use of beef,
pork, fish, potatoes and more issue forth in Looking for a fun walk of an hour or so?
a diner-pleasing stream. The house sour- Set in a beautiful location on a plateau
dough bread is superb. overlooking rice terraces and river
valleys, the small cafe Warung Bodag
5 Padangtegal & Tebesaya Maliah (p177) sits in the middle of a big
organic farm belonging to the locally
Warung Sopa vEgETARiAN $ popular Sari Organic brand.
(Map p150; %0361-276 5897; Jl Sugriwa 36; mains Yes the food’s healthy, but more im-
30,000-60,000Rp; h8am-9 .30pm; Wv) This portantly, given that some of the pleas-
popular open-air place in a residential street ure is getting here, the drinks are cool
captures the Ubud vibe with creative and and refreshing. Look for a little track
tasty vegetarian fare with a Balinese twist. heading north off Jl Raya Ubud that
Look for specials of the day on display; the goes past Abangan Bungalows, then fol-
ever-changing nasi campur is a treat. low the signs along footpaths for anoth-
er 800m. Beware, however, that Ubud’s
Earth Cafe & Market vEgETARiAN $ furious development is happening here
(Map p150; www .dtebali .com/earth-cafe-market- as well; you may be run down by a mo-
ubud; Jl gotama Selatan; meals from 30,000Rp; torbike carrying building supplies.
Wv) ‘Eliminate free radicals’ is but one Keep walking north through the rice
of many healthy drinks at this hard-core fields, as long as your interest or endur- UbUd & AroUnd UBUd
outpost for vegetarian organic dining and ance lasts, because the surroundings UbUd & AroUnd E ATiNg
drinking. The seemingly endless menu has will get more natural. Look for little
a plethora of soups, salads and platters that offshoot trails to either side that lead to
are heavy on Med flavours. There’s a market small rivers.
on the main floor.
UbUd & AroUnd UBUd
Warung Mangga Madu iNdONESiAN $
(Map p150; %0361-977334; Jl gunung Sari; mains gie grazing or just having a coffee, juice or
from 15,000Rp; h8am-10pm) The slightly ele- house-made natural soft drink. Breakfasts
vated dining terrace here is a fine place to are healthy while lunch meals feature excel-
enjoy excellent versions of Indo classics like lent salads, bowls and burritos, with many
nasi campur. That’s your driver at the next raw items. It’s always busy.
table reading the Bali Pos newspaper. Load Kebun
up on road snacks to go. MEdiTERRANEAN $$
(Map p150; %0361-780 3801; www .kebunbis-
Mama’s Warung iNdONESiAN $ tro .com; Jl hanoman 44; mains from 60,000Rp;
(Map p150; %0361-977047; Jl Sukma; mains h11am-11pm) Napa meets Ubud at this cute
25,000-50,000Rp; h8am-10pm) A real budget little bistro and it’s a good match. A long
find among the bargain homestays of Tebe- wine list (with specials) can be paired with
saya. Mama and her retinue cook up Indo French- and Italian-accented dishes large
classics that are spicy and redolent with and small. There are daily specials including
garlic (the avocado salad, yum!). The fresh- pastas and risottos. Dine inside or out on the
ly made peanut sauce for the satay is silky appealing terrace.
smooth, the fried sambal superb. Bebek Bengil iNdONESiAN $$
Ubud Organic Market MARKET $ (Map p150; dirty duck diner; %0361-975489; www .
(Map p150; www .ubudorganicmarket .com; off Jl bebekbengil .com; Jl hanoman; mains 70,000-
Sukma; h9am-2pm Wed & Sat) Operates twice 220,000Rp; h10am-11pm) This famous place
a week: Wednesdays at the UBC Tebesaya, is hugely popular for one reason: its crispy
the village wantilan (open pavilion), and Balinese duck, which is marinated for 36
Saturdays at Pizza Bagus (p176) on Jl Raya hours in spices and then fried. The ducks on
Pengosekan. one of the few surviving rice fields outside the
huge open-air dining pavilions look worried.
Kafe CAFE $
(Map p150; %0361-780 3802; Jl hanoman 44; Siti’s Warung Little India iNdiAN $$
mains 15,000-50,000Rp; h8am-11pm; v) S (Map p150; %0819 9962 4555; Jl Sukma 36; mains
Kafe has a huge organic menu great for veg- from 45,000Rp; h10am-10pm) Run by the
176
delightful Siti, this character-filled Indi- Forest. Indonesian and Western dishes pre-
an restaurant is decked out in vintage pared from the large in-house organic gar-
Bollywood posters and accompanied by a den are fresh and tasty. Have a glass of fresh
soundtrack of Hindi pop. Its thalis, samosas juice with the beloved fondant au chocolat
and masala chai are all delicious and au- or raw mango cheesecake. Watch for chil-
thentic. Also delivers tiffins. dren’s evening dance performances.
5 Teges 5 Pengosekan
Jl Cok Rai Pudak – which turns into Jl Many highly regarded restaurants are found
Raya Mas, which runs due south to Mas along the curves of Jl Raya Pengosekan. It’s
from Peliatan – has an excellent choice for always worth seeing what’s new.
Balinese food.
Pitri Minang iNdONESiAN $
oWarung Teges BALiNESE $ (Map p156; Jl Cok gede Rai; meals from 15,000Rp;
(Map p156; Jl Cok Rai Pudak; mains from 25,000Rp; h10am-10pm) In the heart of the unadorned
h8am-6pm) The nasi campur is better here neighbourhood of Peliatan, this open-
than almost anywhere else around Ubud. fronted restaurant serves up fresh and tasty
The restaurant gets just about everything Padang-style meals. Choose from the vari-
right, from the pork sausage to the chicken, ety of prepared mains and settle down for a
the babi guling and even the tempeh. The fine local meal in the view of a historic old
sambal is legendary: fresh, tangy, with a per- banyan tree.
fect amount of heat.
Pizza Bagus PiZZA $$
(Map p156; %0361-978520; www .pizzabagus .com;
5 Nyuhkuning Jl Raya Pengosekan; mains 40,000-100,000Rp;
Warung Pojok iNdONESiAN $ h9am-10pm; aW) First-rate pizza with a
(Map p156; %0361-749 4535; Jl Nyuh Bulan; mains crispy thin crust is baked here. Besides the
UbUd & AroUnd UBUd
UbUd & AroUnd UBUd
20,000-40,000Rp; h8am-10pm; W) This buzz- long list of pizza options, there’s pasta and
UbUd & AroUnd E ATiNg
ing corner cafe has a serene spot overlook- sandwiches – all mostly organic. Tables are in
ing Ubud’s other football field. Besides plen- and out, there’s a play area, and it delivers.
ty of rice and noodle dishes, there are lots of Taco Casa MEXiCAN $$
veggie options, lassies and juices. (Map p156; %0812 2422 2357; www .tacocasabali .
Swasti Beloved Cafe iNTERNATiONAL $$ com; Jl Raya Pengosekan; mains from 50,000Rp;
(Map p156; %0361-974079; www .baliswasti .com; h11am-10pm) Sure, Mexico is almost exact-
Jl Nyuh Bulan; meals 40,000-80,000Rp; h8am- ly on the opposite side of the globe (get one
10pm; W) S This cafe attached to the excel- and check!), but the flavours have found
lent guesthouse of the same name is reason their way to Bali. Tasty versions of burritos,
enough to take a stroll through the Monkey tacos and more have just the right mix of
heat and spice. It delivers.
FOOD SHOPPING IN UBUD
Ubud Organic Market Operates two times a week: Wednesday at Tebesaya wantilan
(open pavilion used to stage cockfights) and Saturday at Pizza Bagus (p176). It attracts
top vendors from around the region.
BundaMart (p172) A top-quality outlet of Bali Bunda; it’s a good source for organic
produce and superb baked goods.
Delta Dewata Supermarket (Map p150; %0361-973049; Jl Raya Andong; h8am-10pm)
and Bintang Supermarket (Map p156; Jl Raya Sanggingan; h7am-10pm) Both have a
large range of food and other essentials.
Produce market (Map p150; Jl Raya Ubud; h6am-1pm) The traditional produce market is
a multilevel carnival of tropical foods and worth exploring despite the clamouring tourist
hordes. It’s in the back corner of the Pasar Seni.
Delta Mart convenience stores are common but, in our experience, so is the store’s pric-
ing variability. The ubiquitous Circle Ks are reliable and sell Bintang around the clock.
177
5 Campuan & Sanggingan 5 Penestanan
Warung Bodag Maliah hEALTh FOOd $ Yellow Flower Cafe iNdONESiAN $
(Map p156; Sari Organik; %0361-972087; Subak (Map p156; %0361-889 9865; off Jl Raya Campuan;
Sok Wayah; mains from 40,000Rp; h8am-8pm) mains from 30,000Rp; h8am-9pm; W) New Age
S In a beautiful location on a plateau Indonesian right up in Penestanan along a
overlooking rice terraces and river valleys, little path through the rice fields. Organic
this attractive cafe is in the middle of a big mains such as nasi campur or rice pan-
organic farm. The food’s healthy and the cakes are good; snackers will delight in the
drinks are cool and refreshing. The walk decent coffees, cakes and smoothies. From
(p175) through the rice fields means half the 5.30pm Sunday evenings there’s an excellent
fun is getting here. Balinese buffet (85,000Rp). Great views.
Warung Pulau Kelapa iNdONESiAN $$ oMoksa vEgETARiAN $$
(Map p156; %0361-971872; http://warungpu- (Map p156; %0361-479 2479; www .moksaubud .
laukelapa .com; Jl Raya Sanggingan; mains 50,000- com; gang damai, Sayan; mains 40,000-80,000Rp;
75,000Rp; h10am-10pm) Kelapa has stylish h10am-9pm Tue-Sun) Forget that farm-to-
takes on Indonesian classics plus more un- table stuff, at Moksa it’s farm-to-fork-to-
usual dishes from around the archipelago. farm. Based at their own permaculture
The surrounds are stylish as well: plenty farm, the restaurant shows the extraordi-
of whitewash and antiques. Terrace tables nary meals that can be made with vegeta-
across the wide expanse of grass are best. bles prepared simply. Half the dishes are
Sample the seven kinds of satay. raw, half cooked. The changing menu usual- UbUd & AroUnd UBUd
ly features the popular ‘Lasagne Love’, which
Elephant vEgETARiAN $$ includes nut cheese and pesto. The setting is
(Map p156; %0361-716 1907; www .elephantbali . rustic with polish amid the farm.
com; Jl Raya Sanggingan, hotel Taman indrakila; It’s a bucolic 400m walk from the nearest
mains 60,000-150,000Rp; h8am-9 .30pm; Wv) street along coursing rice-field waterways.
UbUd & AroUnd UBUd
S High-concept vegetarian dining with gor-
UbUd & AroUnd E ATiNg
geous views across the Sungai Cerik valley. Alchemy vEgAN $$
Foods are well seasoned, interesting and (Map p156; %0361-971981; www .alchemybali .
topped off with an especially good dessert com; Jl Raya Penestanan 75; mains from 50,000Rp;
menu. A stop on Ubud’s Slow Food trail, the h7am-9pm; Wv) S A prototypical 100%
food is organic and ethically sourced. vegan Ubud restaurant, Alchemy features
a vast customised salad menu as well as
Naughty Nuri’s BARBECUE $$
(Map p156; %0361-977547; Jl Raya Sanggingan; cashew-milk drinks, durian smoothies, ice
meals from 80,000Rp; h11am-11pm) This over- cream, fennel juice and a lot more. The
hyped expat hang-out now has queues wait- raw-chocolate desserts are addictive.
ing for food and tourist cars double-parked
out front through the day and night. The 5 Kedewatan
grilled steaks, ribs and burgers are popular – oNasi Ayam Kedewatan BALiNESE $
proof that a little media hype helps – even (%0361-742 7168; Jl Raya Kedewatan; meals from
if all the chewing needed gets in the way of 25,000Rp; h9am-6pm) Few locals making the
chatting. Potent martinis, the original lures, trek up the hill through Sayan pass this Bali
are as large as ever. version of a roadhouse without stopping.
oMozaic FUSiON $$$ The star is sate lilit: chicken is minced,
(Map p156; %0361-975768; www .mozaic-bali .com; combined with an array of spices including
Jl Raya Sanggingan; 6-course menu 700,000Rp; lemongrass, then moulded onto bamboo
h6-10pm; W) Chef Chris Salans oversees skewers and grilled. Stock up on traditional
this much-lauded top-end restaurant. Fine Balinese road snacks: fried chips combined
French fusion cuisine features on a con- with nuts and spices.
stantly changing seasonal menu that takes Kubu MEdiTERRANEAN $$$
its influences from tropical Asia. Dine in (Map p156; %0361-4792777; www .ritzcarlton .com;
an elegant garden twinkling with roman- Jl Kedewatan, Mandapa, a Ritz-Carlton Reserve;
tic lights or an ornate pavilion. Choose set menu from 750,000Rp; h6-10pm) A vision
from four tasting menus, one of which is a in bamboo, Kubu is the premier restaurant
surprise. of the Mandapa resort and offers intimate
178
EAT, PRAY, LOVE & UBUD
’That damn book’ is a common reaction by many Ubud residents, who fear the town’s
popularity is driven in part by Eat, Pray, Love fans. Eat, Pray, Love is the Elizabeth Gilbert
book (and not-so-successful movie) that chronicles the American author’s search for
self-fulfilment (and fulfilment of a book contract) across Italy, India and, yes, Ubud.
Some criticise Gilbert for not offering a more complete picture of Ubud’s locals,
dance, art, expats and walks, warts and all. And they decry basic factual errors such as
the evocative prose about surf spots on the north coast (there are none), which lead you
to suspect things might have been embellished for the plot.
Then there are the genuine fans, those who found a message in EPL that resonated,
validating and/or challenging aspects of their lives. For some an ultimately self-fulfilling
journey to Ubud wouldn’t have happened without EPL.
dining in just nine private cocoons overlook- h8am-10pm; W) That ‘coffee studio’ moni-
ing the Ayung river. Talk about romantic, you ker isn’t for show; all the equipment is on
may not notice the exquisite Mediterranean- display at this temple of single-origin coffee.
European cuisine. With guests receiving Take a seat on the designer rocker chairs and
booking preference, nonguests will need to choose from an array of pourovers, siphon,
book well in advance. Aeropress or espresso using a range of quali-
ty Indonesian beans. It’s also popular for food
6 Drinking & Nightlife (mains from 50,000Rp) and drinks in the
No one comes to Ubud for wild nightlife, al- evening. Across the road is the studio’s cold
though that may be changing. A few bars get brew bar.
lively around sunset and later in the night; oLaughing Buddha
UbUd & AroUnd UBU
still, the venues don’t aspire to the extremes LOUNgE
UbUd & AroUnd dRiN d
of boozy debauchery and clubbing found in (Map p150; %0361-970928; www .facebook .com/
Kuta and Seminyak. Most bars close early in laughingbuddhabali; Monkey Forest Rd; h9am-
Ubud, often by 11pm. late; W) People crowd the street at night in
front of this small cafe with live music Mon-
oFreak Coffee COFFEE day through Saturday nights. Rock, blues,
(Map p150; %0361-898 7124; Jl hanoman 1; vocals, acoustic, jazz and more. The kitch-
h8am-8pm) S The name is appropriate en is open until 1am for Asian bites (mains
here as these people are coffee fanatics. The 40,000Rp to 70,000Rp).
UbUd & AroUnd UBUd KiNg & NighTLiFE
best Bali beans are hand-selected and then Bar Luna LOUNgE
roasted with precision before being brewed (Map p150; %0361-977409; www .facebook .com/
with an attention to detail that would please barlunaubud; Jl Raya Ubud; h3-11pm) Deep in
a persnickety mad scientist. Overlaying this the basement of Casa Luna, you can enjoy
is a quest to produce fantastic coffee with relaxed drinks as well as regular live music
the lowest carbon footprint possible. Enjoy and literary events. Drink specials include
the results at this simple, open-fronted shop. Margarita Monday.
oRoom 4 Dessert LOUNgE Rio Helmi Gallery & Cafe CAFE
(Map p156; %0821 4429 3452; www .room4dessert . (Map p150; %0361-972304; http://riohelmi .com; Jl
asia; Jl Raya Sanggingan; treats from 100,000Rp; Suweta 5; mains from 60,000Rp; h7am-7pm) As
h6pm-late) Celebrity chef Will Goldfarb, who tasty as one of their famous cupcakes, this
gained fame as the dessert chef in Manhat- cafe in the eponymous gallery is the perfect
tan, runs what could be a nightclub except place to pause for a coffee and/or an all-day
that it just serves dessert. Get some friends breakfast and to soak up some Ubud vibe.
and order the sampler. Pair everything with Settle back with a fine beverage and take in
his line-up of classic and extraordinary cock- Helmi’s renowned photography.
tails and wines, then let the night pass by in
a sugary glow. Bridges LOUNgE
(Map p156; %0361-970095; www .bridgesbali .com;
oCoffee Studio Seniman CAFE Jl Raya Campuan; h11am-11 .30pm, happy hour
(Map p150; %0812 3607 6640; www .seniman- 4-7pm) The namesake bridges are right out-
coffee .com; Jl Sriwedari 5; coffee from 30,000Rp;
179
side this multilevel restaurant with sweep- CP Lounge BAR, CLUB
ing views of the gorgeous river gorge. You’ll (Map p150; %0361-978954; www .cp-lounge .com;
hear the rush of the water over rocks far be- Monkey Forest Rd; h11am-4am) Open til early
low while you indulge in a top-end cocktail morning, CP is the place to kick on once
on the rocks. There are gourmet bites for everything else has closed. It has garden
sharing and a long wine list for exploring. seating, live bands and a club with a DJ.
Popular happy-hour drink specials. Never once will you think you’re in Kuta.
Noma’s BAR 3 Entertainment
(Map p150; %0361-908 0800; Monkey Forest Rd;
h4pm-1am) Intentionally looking like the Few travel experiences can be more magi-
oddly appealing amalgam of several failed cal than attending a Balinese dance perfor-
bars from the 1950s, Noma’s touts its me- mance, especially in Ubud. Cultural enter-
diocrity, boasting about its untalented staff, tainment keeps people returning and sets
bad drinks etc. Of course it’s all a meme and Bali apart from other tropical destinations.
in reality the cocktails at this open-sided Ubud is the perfect base for the nightly array
two-storey bar are interesting and the serv- of performances and for accessing events in
ers all charmers. surrounding villages.
In a week in and around Ubud, you can
Seniman Cold Brew Bar COFFEE see Kecak, Legong and Barong dances, Ma-
(Map p150; www .senimancoffee .com; Jl Sriwedari; habharata and Ramayana ballets, wayang
h11am-7pm; W) Across the road from the kulit (shadow-puppet plays) and gamelan
main cafe, Coffee Studio Seniman, this cool (traditional Javanese and Balinese orches- UbUd & AroUnd ENTE
little hang-out specialises in slow-drip cold- tras). There are eight or more performances UbUd & AroUnd UBUd
brew coffee and iced teas. A wonderful pit to choose from each night.
stop in the heat of the day. UbUd & AroUnd UBUdRTAiNMENT
oParadiso CiNEMA
Napi Orti BAR (Map p150; %0361-783 5545; www .paradisoubud .
(Map p150; Jl Jembawan; hnoon-late) Let rasta com; Jl gautama Selatan; 50,000Rp incl food or
season your cheap cocktails and pizzas at drinks; hfilms from 5pm) This organic vege-
this open-front streetside bar. Get boozy un- tarian restuarant also screens two or three
der the hazy gaze of Jim Morrison and Sid nightly movies at its surprisingly plush
Vicious.
DANCE TROUPES: GOOD & BAD
All dance groups on Ubud’s stages are not created equal. You’ve got true artists with
international reputations and then you’ve got some who really shouldn’t quit their day
jobs. If you’re a Balinese dance novice, you shouldn’t worry too much about this; just
pick a venue and go.
But after a few performances, you’ll start to appreciate the differences in talent, and
that’s part of the enjoyment. Clue: if the costumes are dirty, the orchestra seems par-
ticularly uninterested, performers break character to tell stale jokes (really!) and you find
yourself watching a dancer and saying ‘I could do that’, then the group is B-level.
Excellent troupes who regularly perform in Ubud include the following:
Semara Ratih High-energy, creative Legong interpretations. The best local troupe mu-
sically.
Gunung Sari Legong dance; one of Bali’s oldest and most respected troupes.
Semara Madya Kekac dance; especially good for the hypnotic chants. A mystical expe-
rience for some.
Tirta Sari Legong and Barong dance.
Cudamani One of Bali’s best gamelan troupes. They rehearse in Pengosekan.
Finally, watch for temple ceremonies (which are frequent). Go around 8pm and you’ll
see Balinese dance and music in its full cultural context. You’ll need to be appropriately
dressed – your hotel or a local can tell you what to do.
The website Ubud Now & Then (www.ubudnowandthen.com) has schedules of special
events and performances. Also check with Ubud Tourist Information (p183).
180
150-seat cinema. The price of admission is Ubud Palace dANCE
redeemable against items from the Earth (Map p150; Jl Raya Ubud) Performances are held
Cafe menu – so a great deal. During the day here almost nightly against a beautiful back-
it hosts regular talks and events; check the drop.
website for schedule.
Arma Open Stage dANCE
Dance (Map p156; %0361-976659; Jl Raya Pengosekan)
Dances performed for visitors are usually Has some of the best troupes performing
adapted and abbreviated to some extent Kecak and Legong dance.
to make them more enjoyable, but usual- Shadow Puppets
ly have appreciative locals in the audience
(or peering around the screen!). It’s also Shadow-puppet shows are greatly attenu-
common to combine the features of more ated from traditional performances, which
than one traditional dance in a single often last the entire night. Regular per-
performance. formances are held at Oka Kartini (Map
Ubud Tourist Information (p183) has p150; %0361-975193; Jl Raya Ubud; adult/child
performance information and sells tickets 100,000/50,000Rp; h8pm Wed, Fri & Sun),
(usually 75,000Rp to 125,000Rp). For per- which has bungalows and a gallery.
formances outside Ubud, transport is often Pondok Bamboo Music Shop PUPPET ThEATRE
included in the price. Tickets are also sold (Map p150; %0361-974807; Monkey Forest Rd; tick-
at many hotels, at the venues and by street ets 75,000Rp; hperformances 8pm Mon & Thu)
vendors – all charge the same price. Short-attention-span-friendly shadow-puppet
Vendors often sell drinks at the perfor- shows are performed here by noted experts.
mances, which typically last about 1½ hours.
Before the show, you might notice the musi- 7 Shopping
cians checking out the size of the crowd – Ubud has myriad art shops, boutiques and
ticket sales fund the troupes. galleries. Many offer clever and unique
One note about your phone: nobody items made in and around the area. Ubud
UbUd & AroUnd UBUd
UbUd & AroUnd UBUd
wants to hear it; nor do the performers want is the ideal base for exploring the enormous
flash in their eyes. And don’t be rude and number of craft galleries, studios and work-
UbUd & AroUnd ShOPPiNg
walk out loudly in the middle. shops in villages north and south.
Pura Dalem Ubud dANCE With so much of central Ubud now devot-
(Map p150; Jl Raya Ubud) At the west end of ed to visitors, the area’s main shopping strip
Jl Raya Ubud, this open-air venue has a has moved over to Jl Peliatan in Tebesaya
flame-lit carved-stone backdrop and is one and Peliatan. Here you’ll find all the stores
of the most evocative places to see a dance and shops that supply locals with their daily
performance. needs.
Puri Agung Peliatan dANCE What to Buy
(Map p150; Jl Peliatan) A simple setting backed You can spend days in and around Ubud
by a large carved wall. Has some excellent shopping. The upper part of Jl Hanoman
performances. and Jl Dewi Sita have the most interesting
local shops. Look for jewellery, homewares
Padangtegal Kaja dANCE and clothing. Monkey Forest Rd is becoming
(Map p150; Jl hanoman) A simple, open terrace the domain of upmarket chains. Arts and
in a convenient location. In many ways this crafts and yoga goods are found everywhere
location hints at what dance performances and at every price point and quality.
have looked like in Ubud for generations. Ubud is the best place in Bali for books.
Pura Taman Saraswati dANCE Selections are wide and varied, especially for
(Map p150; Ubud Water Palace; Jl Raya Ubud) The tomes on Balinese art and culture.
beauty of the setting may distract you from
the dancers, although at night you can’t see 7 Jalan Raya Ubud & Around
the lily pads and lotus flowers that are such oGanesha Bookshop BOOKS
an attraction by day. (Map p150; www .ganeshabooksbali .com; Jl Raya
Pura Padang Kerta dANCE Ubud; h9am-8pm) A quality bookshop with
(Map p150; Jl hanoman) Attractive dance venue an excellent selection of titles on Indone-
in front of a temple but well off the street. sian studies, travel, arts, music, fiction (in-
181
cluding used books) and maps. Great staff
recommendations. 7 Monkey Forest Road
Kou Cuisine hOMEWARES
oThreads of Life Indonesian (Map p150; %0361-972319; Monkey Forest Rd;
Textile Arts Center TEXTiLES h10am-8pm) A repository of small and exqui-
(Map p150; %0361-972187; www .threadsoflife .com; site gifts, including beautiful little jars of jam
Jl Kajeng 24; h10am-7pm) This small, profes- made with Balinese fruit or containers of sea
sional textile gallery and shop sponsors the salt harvested from along Bali’s shores.
production of naturally dyed, handmade
ritual textiles from around Indonesia. It ex- Goddess on the Go! CLOThiNg
ists to help recover skills in danger of being (Map p156; %0361-976084; www .goddessonthego .
lost to modern dyeing and weaving meth- net; Jl Raya Pengosekan; h9am-8pm) A large
ods. Commissioned pieces are displayed in selection of women’s clothes designed for
the gallery, which has good explanatory ma- adventure, made to be super-comfortable,
terial. Also runs regular textile-appreciation easy-to-pack and eco-friendly.
courses (p160).
Pondok Bamboo
Smile Shop ARTS & CRAFTS Music Shop MUSiCAL iNSTRUMENTS
(Map p150; %0361-233758; www .senyumbali .org; (Map p150; %0361-974807; Monkey Forest Rd;
Jl Sriwedari; h10am-4pm Tue-Sun) All manner h10am-8pm) Hear the music of a thousand
of secondhand, donated goods are for sale bamboo wind chimes at this store owned
in a charity shop to benefit the Smile Foun- by noted gamelan musician Nyoman Warsa,
dation of Bali. who offers music lessons and stages shad- UbUd & AroUnd UBUd
ow-puppet shows.
Rio Helmi Gallery & Cafe PhOTOgRAPhY UbUd & AroUnd ShOPPiNg
(Map p150; %0361-978773; www .riohelmi .com; Jl Periplus BOOKS
Suweta 06B; h7am-7pm) Noted photographer (Map p150; %0361-975178; Monkey Forest Rd;
and Ubud resident Rio Helmi has a small h10am-10pm) A typically glossy outlet of the
commercial gallery and cafe where you can popular Indonesian chain.
UbUd & AroUnd UBUd
admire or purchase his journalistic and ar-
tistic work. 7 Jalan Dewi Sita
Moari MUSiC oKou COSMETiCS
(Map p150; %0361-977367; Jl Raya Ubud; h10am- (Map p150; %0361-971905; Jl dewi Sita; h9am-
8pm) New and restored Balinese musical in- 8pm) The perfume of luxurious locally hand-
struments are sold here. Splurge on a cute made organic soaps wafts as you enter. Put
little bamboo flute for 30,000Rp. some in your undies drawer and it’ll smell
Street 278 FAShiON & ACCESSORiES fine for weeks. The range is unlike that
(Map p150; %0812 3815 0310; www .street278 .com . found in chain stores selling luxe soap. It
au; Jl Raya Ubud; h10am-8pm) S Recycled also operates Kou Cuisine.
goods are used for handbags and a full range Tn Parrot CLOThiNg
of other accessories that exude a confident, (Map p150; www .tnparrot .com; Jl dewi Sita; h10am-
colourful style. 8pm) The trademark parrot of this T-shirt
Neka Art Museum BOOKS shop is a characterful bird who appears in
(Map p150; %0361-975074; www .museumneka . many guises on this shop’s line of custom
com; Jl Raya Sanggingan; h9am-5pm) This mu- T-shirts. Designs range from cool to groovy to
seum shop in Sanggingan has a good range offbeat. Everything is made from high-quality
of books on art and Bali. cotton that’s been pre-shrunk.
Ubud Market giFTS & SOUvENiRS Confiture Michèle FOOd
(Map p150; Pasar Seni; Jl Raya Ubud; h7am-8pm) (Map p150; Jl goutama; h10am-9pm) Preserves
The large Ubud Market is your one-stop shop made from Bali’s fruit are the, er, preserve of
for kitschy souvenirs, clothing and presents this cute – and sweet-smelling – shop.
for back home. It’s inside a large complex; CreArt Story ARTS & CRAFTS
stallholders set up across several buildings, (Map p150; %0813 3881 8829; www .facebook .
and also along Jl Karna. Push to the far south- com/creartstoryshop; Jl goutama 20; h11am-
east corner for the produce market (p176), 8pm) A shop for readers of Adbusters: a
which still serves the daily needs of locals. no-brand brand store. The store’s ethos is
182
selling goods that aren’t made by faceless of a little store with a top range of New Age
poorly paid people. The handicrafts here supplies. Incense, yoga mats, moody instru-
are responsibly sourced and come with their mental music – it’s all here.
own stories of their origin. ARMA BOOKS
(Map p156; %0361-976659; www .armabali .com; Jl
7 Padangtegal & Pengosekan Raya Pengosekan; h9am-6pm) Large selection
oRumble CLOThiNg of cultural titles.
(Rmbl; Map p156; www .xrmblx .co; Jl Raya Campuhan; Ubud Yoga Shop CLOThiNg
h9am-10pm) Owned by the drummer of the (Map p150; %0361-973361; Jl hanoman 44B;
famous Balinese punk act Superman is Dead, h8am-8pm) Huge range of quality yoga gear
Rumble stocks a cool selection of locally de- and wear.
signed streetwear. It’s right at the entrance
to the madcap Blanco Renaissance Museum. 8 Information
Tegun Galeri hOMEWARES INTERNET ACCESS
(Map p150; %0361-973361; Jl hanoman 44; h10am- Wi-fi is near universal in places to stay as well as
8pm) It’s every thing the souvenir stores are most cafes . Mobile data speeds are fast .
not, with beautiful handmade items from Hubud (%0361-978073; www .hubud .org; Mon-
around the island plus ancient art. key Forest Rd; per month from US$60; h24hr
Ashitaba hOMEWARES Mon-Fri, 9am-midnight Sat & Sun; W) is for the
digital nomads; this co-work space and digital
(Map p150; %0361-464922; Jl hanoman; h10am- hub has ultrafast web connections, developer
8pm) Tenganan, the Aga village of east Bali, seminars and much more . Take in rice-field
is where the beautiful rattan items sold here views as you create a billion-dollar app .
are produced. Containers, bowls, purses and
more (from US$5) display the fine and intri- MEDICAL SERVICES
cate weaving. Kimia Pharma (Jl Raya Ubud; h7am-10pm)
Convenient location of the respected pharmacy
UbUd & AroUnd UBUd
UbUd & AroUnd UBUd
Namaste giFTS & SOUvENiRS chain .
(%0361-970528; Jl hanoman 64; h9am-7pm) Ubud Care (%24hr 0821 8888 2273; www .
Just the place to buy a crystal to get your ubudcare .com; Jl Sukma 37; hoffice 9am-
spiritual house in order, Namaste is a gem 10pm) A modern clinic that provides examina-
UbUd & AroUnd iNFORMATiON
SAVING BALI’S DOGS
Mangy curs. That’s the only label you can apply to many of Bali’s dogs. As you travel the
island – especially by foot – you can’t help but notice dogs that are sick, ill-tempered,
uncared for and victims to a litany of other maladies.
How can such a seemingly gentle island have Asia’s worst dog population (which now
has a serious rabies problem)? The answers are complex, but benign neglect has a lot to
do with it. Dogs are at the bottom of the social strata: few have owners and local interest
in them is next to nil.
Some nonprofits in Ubud are hoping to change the fortunes of Bali’s maligned best
friends through rabies vaccinations, spaying and neutering, and public education. Dona-
tions are always greatly needed.
Bali Adoption Rehab Centre (BARC; %0361-975038; https://barc4balidogs .org .au; Jl
Raya Pengosekan; h10am-5pm) Cares for dogs, places strays with sponsors and operates
a mobile clinic for sterilisation.
Bali Animal Welfare Association (BAWA; %0811 389 004; www .bawabali .com; Jl Ubud
Raya 10; h9am-8pm Mon-Fri, 9am-5pm Sat & Sun) Runs lauded mobile rabies vaccination
teams, organises adoption, promotes population control.
Yudisthira Swarga Foundation (%0361-900 3043; www .yudisthiraswarga .org) Based
in Denpasar, cares for thousands of Bali strays a year and has vaccination and
population-control programs.
183
tions and consultations, house and hotel calls, 8 Getting Around
and prescriptions .
Many high-end spas, hotels and restaurants
MONEY offer free local transport for guests and
Ubud has numerous banks and ATMs . customers .
Central Ubud Money Exchange (www .central TO/FROM THE AIRPORT
kutabali .com; Jl Raya Ubud; h8am-9pm) Taxis with the cartel from the airport to Ubud
is a respected Bali-wide chain of currency cost 300,000Rp . A hired car with driver to the
exchanges .
airport will cost about the same .
POLICE BEMO
Police Station (%0361-975316; Jl Raya An- Bemos to gianyar travel along eastern Jl Raya
dong; h24hr) Located east, at Andong .
Ubud, down Jl Peliatan and east to Bedulu . The
POST fare for a ride within the Ubud area shouldn’t be
Main Post Office (Jl Jembawan; h8am-5pm) more than 7000Rp .
handles parcels and has a desk for airline CAR & MOTORCYCLE
ticketing .
With numerous nearby attractions, many of
TOURIST INFORMATION which are difficult to reach by bemo, renting a
Visitors will find every service they need and vehicle is sensible . Ask at your accommodation
then some along Ubud’s main roads . Bulletin or hire a car and driver .
boards at Bali Buda and Kafe have info on hous- Most drivers are very fair; a few – often from
ing, jobs, classes and much more . out of the area – not so much. If you find a driver
Ubud is home to many nonprofit and volunteer you like, get his number and call him for rides UbUd & AroUnd BEdULU
groups . during your stay . From central Ubud to, say,
Ubud Tourist Information (Fabulous Ubud; Sanggingan should cost about 40,000Rp – UbUd & AroUnd gET TiNg ThER
rather steep actually . A ride from the palace
%0361-973285; www .fabulousubud .com; Jl to the end of Jl hanoman should cost about
Raya Ubud; h8am-8pm; W) is run by the Ubud 20,000Rp . UbUd & AroUnd AROUNd UBUd E & AWAY
royal family and is the one really useful tourist
office in Bali. It has a good range of information it’s easy to get a ride on the back of a motor-
and a noticeboard listing current happenings bike; rates are half those of cars .
and activities. The staff can answer most region- TAXI
al questions and it has up-to-date information
on ceremonies and traditional dances held in the There are no metered taxis based in Ubud –
those that honk their horns at you have usually
area; dance tickets and tours are sold here .
dropped off passengers from southern Bali in
8 Getting There & Away Ubud and are hoping for a fare back . instead,
you’ll use one of the ubiquitous drivers with
BEMO private vehicles hanging around on the streets
Ubud is on two bemo routes . Bemo travel to hectoring passers-by (the better drivers politely
hold up signs that say ‘transport’) .
gianyar (10,000Rp) and Batubulan terminal
in denpasar (13,000Rp) . Ubud doesn’t have a
bemo terminal; there are bemo stops on Jl Suwe-
ta near the market in the centre of town . AROUND UBUD
TOURIST SHUTTLE BUS
You’ll see ads all around town for economical
shared cars and buses to destinations across Bedulu
Bali . Bedulu was once the capital of a great
Perama (%0361-973316; www .peramatours . kingdom. The legendary Dalem Bedaulu
com; Jl Raya Pengosekan; h9am-9pm) is the ruled the Pejeng dynasty from here, and
major tourist-shuttle operator, but its terminal
is inconveniently located in Padangtegal; to was the last Balinese king to withstand the
get to/from your destination in Ubud will cost onslaught of the powerful Majapahit from
another 15,000Rp . destinations include Sanur Java. He was defeated by Gajah Mada in
(50,000Rp, one hour), Padangbai (75,000Rp, 1343. The capital shifted several times after
two hours) and Kuta (60,000Rp, two hours) . this, to Gelgel and then later to Semarapura
Kura-Kura Bus (www .kura2bus .com) runs (Klungkung). Today Bedulu is absorbed into
from near the Ubud Palace to its hub in Kuta five the greater Ubud sprawl.
times daily (80,000Rp, two hours) .
184
1 Sights ue of Shiva’s son, the elephant-headed god
oYeh Pulu hiSTORiC SiTE Ganesha. In front of the cave are two square
(adult/child 15,000/7500Rp; h8am-5 .30pm) bathing pools with waterspouts held by six
Amid beautiful rice-terrace vistas, a man female figures.
having his hand munched by a boar is one There were never any elephants in Bali
of the scenes on the 25m-long carved cliff (until tourist attractions changed that);
face known as Yeh Pulu, believed to be a ancient Goa Gajah probably takes its name
hermitage from the late 14th century. Even from the nearby Sungai Petanu, which at
if your interest in carved Hindu art is minor, one time was known as Elephant River, or
this site is quite lovely and rarely will you perhaps because the face over the cave en-
have much company. From the entrance, it’s trance might resemble an elephant.
a 300m lush, tropical walk to Yeh Pulu. The origins of the cave are uncertain; one
Apart from the figure of Ganesha, the tale relates that it was created by the fin-
elephant-headed son of Shiva, most of the gernail of the legendary giant Kebo Iwa. It
scenes deal with everyday life, although the probably dates to the 11th century, and was
position and movement of the figures sug- certainly in existence during the Majapahit
gests that it could be read from left to right takeover of Bali. The cave was rediscovered
as a story. One theory is that they are events by Dutch archaeologists in 1923, but the foun-
from the life of Krishna, the Hindu god. tains and pool were not found until 1954.
You can walk between the sites, follow- From Goa Gajah you can clamber down
ing small paths through the paddy fields, through the rice paddies to Sungai Petanu,
but you might need to pay a local to guide where there are crumbling rock carvings of
you. By car or bicycle, look for the signs to stupas (domes for housing Buddhist relics)
‘Relief Yeh Pulu’ or ‘Villa Yeh Pulu’, east of on a cliff face, and a small cave.
Goa Gajah. A popular stop for tours, try to get to Goa
Gajah before 10am, which is when the big
oGoa Gajah CAvE tourist buses begin lumbering into the large
(Elephant Cave; Jl Raya goa gajah; adult/ souvenir-stall-filled parking lot like, well,
UbUd & AroUnd SighTS
UbUd & AroUnd PE JENg
child 15,000/7500Rp, parking motorcycle/car elephants. Breeze past the ‘Coffee Luwak’
2000/5000Rp; h8am-5 .30pm) Some 2km stalls and other irritants in the parking area.
southeast of Ubud on the road to Bedulu, Pura Samuan Tiga hiNdU TEMPLE
UbUd & AroUnd AROUNd UBUd
Goa Gajah is carved into a rock face and (10,000Rp; h7am-5pm) The majestic Pura
you enter through the cavernous mouth of Samuan Tiga (Temple of the Meeting of the
a demon. Inside the T-shaped cave you can Three) is on a small lane about 200m east of
see fragmentary remains of the lingam, the the Bedulu junction. The name is possibly
phallic symbol of the Hindu god Shiva, and a reference to the Hindu trinity, or it may
its female counterpart the yoni, plus a stat- refer to meetings held here in the early 11th
century. Despite these early associations, all
the temple buildings have been rebuilt since
THE LEGEND OF DALEM a 1917 earthquake. It’s an impressive, beau-
BEDAULU tiful site.
A legend relates how Dalem Bedaulu 8 Getting There & Away
possessed magical powers that allowed
him to have his head chopped off and About 3km east of Teges, the road from Ubud
then replaced. Performing this unique reaches a junction where you can turn south to
party trick one day, the servant entrust- gianyar or north to Pejeng, Tampaksiring and
ed with lopping off the king’s head and Penelokan . Ubud–gianyar bemos will drop you
then replacing it unfortunately dropped off at this junction, from where you can walk to
the sights . The road from Ubud is reasonably
it in a river and, to his horror, watched flat, so coming by bicycle is a good option.
it float away. Looking around in panic
for a replacement, he grabbed a pig,
cut off its head and popped it upon the Pejeng
king’s shoulders. Thereafter, the king
was forced to sit on a high throne and On the road towards Tampaksiring you
forbade his subjects to look up at him; come to Pejeng and its famous temples. Like
Bedaulu means ‘he who changed heads’. Bedulu, this was once an important seat of
power, as it was the capital of the Pejeng
185
kingdom, which fell to the Majapahit in-
vaders in 1343. Give yourself a few hours to FIVE ELEMENTS
explore this untouristed area, close to Ubud.
1 Sights Bamboo soars overhead at the impres-
sive and vast retreat and healing centre
Pura Penataran Sasih hiNdU TEMPLE Fivelements (%0361-469260; www .
(Jl Raya Tampaksiring; admission by donation; fivelements.org; Mambal; massage from
h7am-5pm) This was once the state temple of 900,000Rp, r from 5,000,000Rp), about
the Pejeng kingdom. In the inner courtyard, 10km west of Ubud near Mambal. It’s
high up in a pavilion and difficult to see, is an intensive health retreat that draws
the huge bronze drum known as the Fall- on myriad therapies and includes luxe
en Moon of Pejeng. The hourglass-shaped guest rooms (think posh tree houses
drum is 186cm long, the largest single-piece with hot tubs) and a large public space,
cast drum in the world. Estimates of its age which is the site of TEDx Ubud.
vary from 1000 to 2000 years.
It is not certain whether the drum was Pura Kebo Edan
made locally or imported – the intricate hiNdU TEMPLE
geometric decorations are said to resemble (Jl Raya Tampaksiring) Who can resist a sight
patterns from places as far apart as West called Crazy Buffalo Temple? Although not
Papua and Vietnam. an imposing structure, it’s famous for its
3m-high statue, known as the Giant of Pe-
Balinese legend relates that the drum
came to earth as a fallen moon, landing in jeng, thought to be approximately 700 years UbUd & AroUnd MAS
a tree and shining so brightly that it pre- old. Details are sketchy, but it may represent UbUd & AroUnd SighTS
vented a band of thieves from going about Bima, a hero of the Mahabharata, dancing UbUd & AroUnd AROUNd UBUd
their unlawful purpose. One of the thieves on a dead body, as in a myth related to the
decided to put the light out by urinating on Hindu Shiva cult. Note the large storage
it, but the moon exploded and fell to earth area for village kites.
as a drum, with a crack across its base as a
result of the fall. 8 Getting There & Away
Although the big noise here is all about You can easily bike from Ubud to the sights in
the drum, be sure to notice the statuary in and around Pejeng . Otherwise you’ll want your
the temple courtyard that dates from the own wheels .
10th to the 12th century. There are simple
food stalls in the parking area.
Pura Pusering Jagat hiNdU TEMPLE Mas
(Jl Raya Tampaksiring) So that’s what it looks Just south of Ubud, Mas means ‘gold’ in
like? The large Pura Pusering Jagat is said Bahasa Indonesia, but woodcarving is the
to be the centre of the old Pejeng kingdom. principal craft in this village. Carving was
Dating from 1329, this temple is visited by a traditional art of the priestly Brahmana
young couples who pray at the stone lingam caste, and the skills are said to have been
and yoni. The temple is on a small paved a gift of the gods. Historically, carving was
lane running west of the main road. limited to temple decorations, dance masks
Museum Arca MUSEUM and musical instruments, but in the 1930s
carvers began to depict people and animals
(Archaeology Museum; %0361-942354; l Raya in a naturalistic way. Today it’s hard to resist
Tampaksiring; admission by donation; h8am-4pm) the oodles of winsome creatures produced
This archaeological museum has a reasona- here.
ble collection of artefacts from all over Bali, This is the place to come if you want
and most displays are in English. The exhib- something custom-made in sandalwood –
its in several small buildings include some just be prepared to pay well (and check
of Bali’s first pottery from near Gilimanuk, the wood’s authenticity carefully). Mas is
and sarcophagi dating from as early as 300 also part of Bali’s booming furniture indus-
BC. The museum is about 500m north of try, producing chairs, tables and antiques
the Bedulu junction, and is easy to reach (‘made to order!’), mainly from teak import-
by bemo or bicycle. It’s a sleepy place and ed from other Indonesian islands.
you’ll get the most out of it if you come with
a knowledgeable guide.
186
BALI’S VILLAGE ARTISTS generations of some of Bali’s best mask-carv-
ers will show you their secrets in a family
In small villages throughout the Ubud compound right off the main road; in two
region, from Sebatu to Mas and beyond weeks you might have something. They are
across Bali, you’ll see small signs for just north of the Mas soccer field.
artists and craftspeople, often near the
local temple. As one local told us, ‘we 4 Sleeping & Eating
are only as rich of a village as our art’, so oTaman Harum Cottages hOTEL $
the people who create the ceremonial (%0361-975567; www .tamanharumcottages .com;
costumes, masks, kris (traditional dag- Jl Raya Mas; r from US$45, 2-bedroom villas from
ger), musical instruments and all the US$100; aiWs) Along the main road in
other beautiful aspects of Balinese life Mas, this lushly landscaped hotel has 17
and religion are accorded great honour. rooms and villas – some quite large. By all
It’s a symbiotic relationship, with the means get one overlooking the rice fields.
artist never charging the village for the It’s behind a gallery, which is also a venue
work and the village in turn seeing to for a huge range of recommended art and
the welfare of the artist. Often there are cultural courses. Ubud shuttles are free.
many artists in residence because few
events would bring more shame to a vil- Suly Resort hOTEL $$
lage than having to go to another village (%0361-976186; www .sulyresort .com; Jl Raya Mas;
to procure a needed sacred object. r from 400,000Rp; aWs) This excellent hotel
has 48 rooms in a four-storey main build-
ing and another 17 in cottages with lovely
1 Sights rice-field views. Balinese architecture details
oSetia Darma House abound; there are yoga classes and spa treat-
of Masks & Puppets MUSEUM ments on offer. It’s at the north end of Mas.
(%0361-898 7493; Jl Tegal Bingin; suggested dona- If the staff here seems both young and
UbUd & AroUnd MAS
tion 35,000Rp; h8am-4pm) F This is one of enthusiastic, it’s because the Suly is run by
UbUd & AroUnd SighTS
the best museums in the Ubud area, home to a foundation that trains students from poor
more than 7000 ceremonial masks and pup- parts of Bali in the hospitality industry. Giv-
pets from Bali, Indonesia, Asia and beyond. en the massive growth in tourism, graduates
All are beautifully displayed in a series of his- go on to great jobs across the island and
UbUd & AroUnd NORTh OF UBUd
toric buildings. Among the many treasures, beyond. Only a few applicants are accepted
look for the golden Jero Luh Mask and the and tuition is free.
faces of royalty, mythical monsters and even Semar Warung BALiNESE $$
common people. The museum is about 2km (%0878 8883 3348; Jl Raya Mas 165; mains from
northeast of the main Mas crossroads. 50,000Rp; h9am-10pm) It doesn’t look all
that promising from the front, but step
Tonyraka Art Gallery gALLERY through to the breezy dining area and you’ll
(%0361-781 6785; www .tonyrakaartgallery .com; Jl be wrapped up in a green vista of rice fields
Raya Mas; h9am-5pm) One of the premier gal-
leries in the Ubud area, look for exhibitions stretching off to palm trees. It’s a beautiful
here with some of Bali’s best contemporary view and the Balinese food lives up to it. It’s
artists such as Made Djirna. 1km south of where Jl Raya Mas meets Jl
Raya Pengosekan.
Pura Taman Pule Mas hiNdU TEMPLE
(off Jl Raya Mas) The great Majapahit priest
Nirartha once lived here, and Pura Taman NORTH OF UBUD
Pule is said to be built on the site of his
home. During the three-day Kuningan fes- North of Ubud, Bali becomes cooler and
tival (p24), a performance of wayang wong more lush. Ancient sites and natural beauty
(an older version of the Ramayana ballet) is abound.
held in the temple’s courtyard. The usual road from Ubud north to Batur
is through Tampaksiring with Bali’s own bit
C Courses of Angkor at Gunung Kawi. But there are
Ida Bagus Anom Suryawan ART other lesser roads up the gentle mountain
slope. One of the most attractive goes north
(%0813 3844 8444; www .balimaskmaking .com; Jl from Peliatan, past Petulu and its birds, and
Raya Mas; 2hr class 200,000Rp; hvaries) Three through the rice terraces between Tegal-
187
lalang and Ceking, to bring you out on the makes great use of natural rock. The menu is
crater rim between Penelokan and Batur. It’s pan-Asian with a big dose of pasta.
a decent road all the way and you also pass
through Sebatu, which has all manner of
artisans tucked away in tiny villages. Tampaksiring
The one off-note will be Cekingan, where Tampaksiring is a small village about 18km
the rice terraces are beautiful but have at- northeast of Ubud with a large and impor-
tracted a strip of ugly tourist traps overlook- tant temple, Tirta Empul, and the most im-
ing them. pressive ancient site in Bali, Gunung Kawi.
8 Getting There & Away It sits in the Pakerisan Valley; the entire area
North of Ubud, you’ll need your own wheels . Plan has been nominated for Unesco recognition.
on half a day for these sights . 1 Sights
oTirta Empul MONUMENT
Tegallalang (adult/child 15,000/7500Rp, parking 2000Rp;
There are lots of shops and stalls in this h7am-6pm) Discovered in AD 962 and be-
lieved to have magical powers, the holy
busy market town you’re likely to pass springs here bubble up into a large, crys-
through on your visit to the area’s temples. tal-clear pool within the temple and gush
Stop for a stroll and you may be rewarded out through waterspouts into a bathing pool.
by hearing the practice of one of the local A well-signposted fork in the road north of
noted gamelan orchestras. Otherwise, plen- Tampaksiring leads to these very popular
ty of carvers stand ready to sell you a carved springs. Selfies while in one of the pools are a
fertility doll or the like. In Ceking, scores of cliché; priests come here for holy water. UbUd & AroUnd TEgALL AL ANg
carvers produce works from albesia wood, The waters here are the main source of UbUd & AroUnd gET TiNg ThERE
which is easily turned into simplistic, car- Sungai Pakerisan (Pakerisan River), the river UbUd & AroUnd NORTh OF UBUd & AWAY
toonish figures. The wood is also a favourite that rushes by Gunung Kawi only 1km or so
of wind-chime makers. away. Next to the springs, Pura Tirta Empul
4 Sleeping & Eating is one of Bali’s most important temples. Come
in the early morning or late afternoon to
Kampung Resort RESORT $$ avoid the tourist buses. You can also use the
(%0361-901201; www .thekampungresortubud . clean, segregated and free public baths here.
com; r from US$70; Ws) Staying in any of
the nine rooms here is like having your own oGunung Kawi MONUMENT
tree house. You’re surrounded by soaring (adult/child incl sarong 15,000/7500Rp, parking
palms and rice terraces. The only break in 2000Rp; h7am-6pm) At the bottom of a lush
the green is the blue sky spotted through
the fronds. Rooms are solidly comfortable. BEST TIME TO VISIT
Ubud is a 20-minute ride away. GUNUNG KAWI
Alam Sari hOTEL $$ Get to Gunung Kawi as early as possible
(%0361-240308; www .alamsari .com; Keliki; r from for the best experience. If you start
600,000Rp; aWs) S Go about 3km west of down the steps by 7.30am, you’ll avoid
Tegallalang on the very green road to Keliki, all the vendors and you’ll still see resi-
and you’ll pass Alam Sari, a small hotel in dents going about their morning busi-
a wonderfully isolated location where the ness in the swift-flowing streams such
bamboo grows like grass. There are 10 lux- as ablutions and cleaning ceremonial
urious yet rustic rooms, a pool and a great offerings. You can hear the birds, the
view. The hotel treats its own wastewater, flowing water and your own voice going
among other environmental initiatives. ‘ooh’ and ‘aah’ without the distractions
Kampung Resort CAFE $$ that come later when large groups
(%0361-901201; www .thekampungresortubud .com; arrive. In addition, you’ll still have cool
air when you start back up the endless
Ceking; mains 40,000-80,000Rp; h8am-9pm; W) steps. Be sure to have a sarong in case
You can pause at Kampung Resort in the there is nobody yet offering them for
village of Ceking, an attractive cafe (perfect use. If the ticket office is closed, you can
for lunch) and upmarket guesthouse with pay on your way out.
jaw-dropping rice-terrace views. The design
188
Wungsu’s chief concubines. Another theory
BALI’S CHOCOLATE FACTORY is that the whole complex is dedicated to
Anak Wungsu, his wives, concubines and, in
You might think Swiss or Belgian when the case of the remote 10th candi, to a royal
you think of chocolate, but soon you minister.
could be thinking Bali. Big Tree Farms As you wander between monuments,
(%0361-846 3327; www .bigtreefarms . temples, offerings, streams and fountains,
com; Sibang; tours with/without bookings you can’t help but feel a certain ancient maj-
40,000/60,000Rp; htours 2pm Mon-Fri), esty here.
a local producer of quality foodstuffs From the end of the access road, a steep,
that has made a big splash internation- stone stairway leads down to the river, at
ally, has built a chocolate factory about one point cutting through an embankment
10km southwest of Ubud in the village of of solid rock. Be prepared for long climbs –
Sibang. The chocolate made here comes there are more than 270 steps. The sarong is
from cocoa beans grown by over 13,000 necessary as parts of the site are considered
farmers across Indonesia. The result is a holy.
very high-quality chocolate that you can
watch being made on tours.
This is not just any factory: rather
it is a huge and architecturally stun- SOUTH OF UBUD
ning creation made sustainably from
bamboo – an ethos that extends to the The roads between Ubud and south Bali are
company’s very philosophy. Just see- lined with little shops making and selling
ing one of the world’s largest bamboo handicrafts. Many visitors shop along the
structures is an attraction in itself; toss route as they head to and from Ubud, some-
in fabulous chocolate and you’ve landed times by the busload, but much of the craft-
an all-round delectable experience. work is actually done in small workshops
Reaching the factory is easy as and family compounds on quiet back roads.
Sibang is on one of the roads linking The roads form a real patchwork and
Ubud to south Bali. you’ll be rewarded with surprises if you
take some time to wander the lesser routes.
Look for temples, atmospheric villages and
family-friendly attractions.
UbUd & AroUnd BL AhBATUh & A
green river valley lies one of Bali’s oldest and
largest ancient monuments. Gunung Kawi 8 Getting There & Away
consists of 10 candi (shrines) – memorials
cut out of the rock face in imitation of ac- South of Ubud, the roads are mostly flat so
UbUd & AroUnd gET TiNg ThERE ROUNd
UbUd & AroUnd SOUTh OF UBUd & AWAY
tual statues. They stand in awe-inspiring cyclists will be pleased, although the main roads
8m-high sheltered niches cut into the sheer can be busy . Otherwise you’ll want your own
cliff face. On the northern outskirts of Tam- wheels in this region . The back roads are great
paksiring, a sign points east off the main for cycling and walking .
road to Gunung Kawi. The views as you For serious shopping and real flexibility in ex-
walk through ancient terraced rice fields are ploring these villages, it’s worth arranging your
own transport so you can follow the back roads
as fine as any in Bali. and carry your purchases without any hassles .
Each candi is believed to be a memorial Note that your driver may receive a commission
to a member of the 11th-century Balinese from any place you spend your money – this can
royalty, but little is known for certain. add 10% or more to the cost of purchases (think
Legends relate that the whole group of of it as his tip) . Also, a driver may try to steer you
memorials was carved out of the rock face in to workshops or artisans that he favours, rather
one hard-working night by the mighty fin- than those of most interest to you .
gernails of Kebo Iwa.
The five monuments on the eastern bank
are probably dedicated to King Udayana, Blahbatuh & Around
Queen Mahendradatta and their sons Air-
langga, Anak Wungsu and Marakata. While Blahbatuh has a small and interesting mar-
Airlangga ruled eastern Java, Anak Wungsu ket in its centre and it has some good attrac-
ruled Bali. The four monuments on the tions nearby. Further west, there are sen-
western side are, by this theory, to Anak sational views of rice terraces off the main
road near the village of Kemenuh.
189
1 Sights 7 Shopping
Pura Gaduh hiNdU TEMPLE Putri Ayu TEXTiLES
(Jl Kebo iwa) The temple of Pura Gaduh, 200m (%0361-942658; Jl Lapangan Astina 3, off Jl Wis-
east of the Blahbatuh market, has a 1m-high ma gajah Mada; h8am-5pm) See looms busily
stone head, believed to be a portrait of Kebo making ikat and batik fabrics at Putri Ayu.
Iwa, the legendary strongman and minis- The workshops and showroom are a good
ter to the last king of the Bedulu kingdom. complement to the textile shops in Gianyar
The head possibly predates the Javanese and are just south of the main road and just
11th-century influence in Bali. east of the temple.
Gajah Mada – the Majapahit strong-
man – realised that it wouldn’t be possible
to conquer Bedulu (Bali’s strongest king- Kutri
dom) while Kebo Iwa was there. So Gajah
Mada lured him away to Java (with prom- Heading north from Blahbatuh, Kutri
ises of women and song) and had him has the interesting Pura Kedarman aka
murdered. Pura Bukit Dharma. If you climb up Bukit
Dharma behind the temple, there’s a great
panoramic view and a hilltop shrine, with
COFFEE LUWAK
Coffee luwak, also known locally as kopi luwak, has become as much a part of the tourist UbUd & AroUnd KUTRi
shopping experience on Bali as the ubiquitous penis-shaped bottle openers. Only it’s
much more costly. UbUd & AroUnd SOUTh OF UBUd
The supposed allure of coffee luwak is that civets (small and winsome nocturnal crit-
ters that are distant relatives of cats) eat only the best coffee beans off coffee bushes.
Then as the beans pass through the civet, various enzymes and digestive juices affect
UbUd & AroUnd SighTS
the chemistry of the bean. Once liberated from the civet turds, the beans are roasted
and brewed, producing a somehow superior cup of coffee.
In the last few years the hype around coffee luwak has become shrill and as more
and more tourists are willing to plop down cash for ‘the world’s most expensive cup of
coffee’ the number of people selling the same has exploded. As you drive around Bali you
will see come-ons everywhere for coffee luwak, especially along major roads in the hills.
Besides the great opportunity for fraud, there are also real concerns about the treatment
of the civets displayed as coffee luwak producers. Consider the following:
¨ There is no agreed-upon flavour profile for coffee luwak, thus no one can say
definitively what a cup should – or does – taste like.
¨ The only way you know you are drinking a cup of coffee luwak is because the person
selling you this brewed beverage for US$10 or more says so.
¨ Despite the potential for outright fakery, huge factory farms for coffee luwak have
sprung up. Here civets captured in the wild are kept caged and force-fed a diet of coffee
beans, not unlike a foie gras goose. In the wild, civets roam widely and coffee is but a tiny
part of their diet.
¨ You may well see a caged civet at a Bali coffee luwak attraction where the nocturnal
creature is kept awake to amuse tourists. At one we listened while a guide explained that
the sad-looking civet in the very small cage before us would only be on luwak duty for a
few days. It would then spend its days and nights at a sort of civet fantasy farm where it
would cavort with other civets.
For more on the controversies around coffee luwak, visit the website Project Luwak Sin-
gapore (projectluwaksg.wordpress.com). The BBC reported on the conditions of captive
civets in 2013 (search for ‘BBC coffee luwak’) while National Geographic did the same in
2016 (go to nationalgeographic.com, search for ‘coffee luwak’). Balinese journalist Cat
Wheeler investigated the situation locally in the Bali Advertiser (http://baliadvertiser.
biz/ethics/).
190
South of Ubud # e 0 0 2.5 miles
5 km
A B C D
#D
Ubud (1.5km) \ # Penestanan # 32 # Pejeng
ÿ
\
ÿ
# # Þ 19
30 Peliatan 15 22
Þ
# \ â 17 # Þ # 9
#
â
1 Nyuhkuning # \ Teges # \ 1 ##æ # Þ 23 1
æ
Pura Taman # 28 Pengosekan \ # Goa Gajah # \ Bedulu 35
Ø
ú
##æ Yeh Pulu
Ayun #36 # # 2 æ 39 ú
#
â â
(1km) 8 24 Setia 3 \ Þ # þ# ú 34
# # 18
#
Kangetan â Mas # Þ # 29 Darma Kutri Gianyar D
#
\
# \ \ # \ #
Mambal # House of Pura Dalem
D
ÿ
26 33 Masks & Bona Sidan (1.8km)
â
#æ Silakarang # Puppets # \
7 \ # # Belega
\
2 27 Sungai Wos Sakah \ # Kemenuh # Blahbatuh 2
\
\
#
# 16
# # þ Þ
Mengwi 42
›
# #Tegenungan
D (2.5km) Sungai Ayung Negari \ # 20
\
#
# \ Badung Þ # Batuan Pantai Lebih
\
D
38 # þ (2km)
# Lukluk Puaya # # þ 41
\
\
Singapadu 6 #æ Ù
#
Sibang \ # # 10 Sukawati \þ # \
\
##
â
# #æ 25 43 Lebih Ù Ù
#
#
#
3 4 # x # Ù 12 3
ÿ
#Sempidi Tegaltamu 37 \ # Saba # \ Ù 31
\
#
#
\
# ý Celuk # þ # 13 11
Ù
#
Þ \ # 40 # \
21 Guwang Petanu
Batubulan # \ Batubulan
Ubung Bus › Bus & Bemo
#
& Bemo Terminal # \ Pabean
Terminal Tohpati Ketewel # \ Rd
›
# Jl Raya Rai Bypass # \ Coast #14
UbUd & AroUnd BONA &
Ù
4 Gunung Agung 5 # \ Gumicik 4
Selat
Bemo Terminal #æ Badung
› Ù
# Pantai
#
UbUd & AroUnd SighTS BELEgA
# ^ Denpasar Ketewel
UbUd & AroUnd SOUTh OF UBUd
#
Poltabes Denpasar
A B C D
a stone statue of the six-armed goddess of ily controlled most of southern Bali. The de-
death and destruction, Durga, killing a cline of its power is attributed to a priest’s
demon-possessed water buffalo. curse, which scattered the royal family to
different parts of the island.
Bona & Belega 1 Sights
On the back road between Blahbatuh and Pura Puseh Batuan &
Gianyar, Bona is a basket-weaving centre Pura Dasar Batuan hiNdU TEMPLE
and features many articles made from lon- (Jl Raya Batuan; donation 10,000Rp; h7am-5pm)
tar (specially prepared palm leaves). It is Just west of the centre, these twin temples
also known for fire dances. (Note: most road are among Bali’s oldest. They’re accessible
signs in the area read ‘Bone’ instead of Bona, studies in classic Balinese temple architec-
so if you get lost, you’ll have to ask: ‘Do you ture. The carvings are elaborate and visitors
know the way to Bone?’) Nearby, the village are given the use of vermilion sarongs. There
of Belega is a centre for bamboo-furniture are regular daytime dance performances
production. aimed at visitors.
Batuan Sukawati & Puaya
Batuan’s recorded history goes back 1000 Once a royal capital, Sukawati is now known
years, and in the 17th century its royal fam- for its market and for its specialised arti-
sans, who busily work in small shops along
191
South of Ubud
æ Top Sights 26 Tonyraka Art Gallery............................ C2
1 Goa Gajah...............................................C1
2 Setia Darma House of Masks & Ø Activities, Courses & Tours
Puppets...............................................C1 27 Big Tree Farms..................................... A2
3 Yeh Pulu .................................................C1 28 Fivelements ...........................................B1
29 Ida Bagus Anom Suryawan .................C1
æ Sights
4 Bali Bird Park.........................................B3 ÿ Sleeping
5 Bali Orchid Garden ...............................B4 30 Bambu Indah .........................................B1
6 Bali Safari & Marine Park.....................D3 31 Komune Bali.......................................... D3
7 Green School.........................................A2 32 Maya Ubud.............................................C1
8 Ketut Rudi Gallery................................. B1 33 Taman Harum Cottages ..................... C2
9 Museum Arca........................................ C1
10 Nyoman Suaka Home..........................B3 ú Eating
11 Pantai Keramas.....................................D3 34 Food Market...........................................D1
12 Pantai Masceti.......................................D3 35 Gianyar Night Market...........................D1
13 Pantai Pering.........................................D3 36 Semar Warung ......................................C1
14 Pantai Purnama ................................... C4
15 Pranoto's Art Gallery............................C1 ý Entertainment
16 Pura Gaduh............................................D2 37 Barong Dance Show............................ B3
17 Pura Kebo Edan .................................... C1
18 Pura Kedarman..................................... D1 þ Shopping
19 Pura Penataran Sasih ..........................C1 38 Baruna Art Shop .................................. C3
20 Pura Puseh Batuan & Pura 39 Cap Togog..............................................D1 UbUd & AroUnd SiNgAPAd
Dasar Batuan......................................C2 40 Guwang Pasar Seni.............................. C3 UbUd & AroUnd ShOPPiNgU
21 Pura Puseh Batubulan .........................B3 41 Nyoman Ruka....................................... C3 UbUd & AroUnd SOUTh OF UBUd
22 Pura Pusering Jagat.............................C1 42 Putri Ayu................................................ C2
23 Pura Samuan Tiga ................................C1 43 Sukawati Market .................................. C3
24 Pura Taman Pule Mas..........................C1 Tenun Ikat Setia Cili....................(see 39)
25 Singapadu Banyan Tree.......................C3
the roads. Puaya, about 1km northwest of
Sukawati, is also known for its artisans. Singapadu
7 Shopping The centre of Singapadu is dominated by a
huge banyan tree. In the past, these were
oSukawati Market MARKET community meeting places; even today the
(Jl Raya Sukawati, Sukawati; h6am-8pm) Suka- local meeting hall is just across the road.
wati Market is a highlight of any visit to the The surrounding village has a traditional
area. Always lively, this large market is a appearance, with walled family compounds
major source of the flowers, baskets, fruits, and shady trees.
knick-knacks and other items used in tem-
ple offerings. It’s a riot of colour. 1 Sights
Nyoman Ruka MUSiCAL iNSTRUMENTS Bali Bird Park BiRd SANCTUARY
(Kubu duah; h10am-6pm) One of the first (%0361-299352; www .bali-bird-park .com;
workshops, coming from the south, is Ny- Jl Serma Cok Ngurah gambir; adult/child
oman Ruka, a slick shop with Barong and 432,000/216,000Rp; h9am-5 .30pm; c) More
masks. than 1000 birds from 250 species flit about
here, including rare cendrawasih (birds of
Guwang Pasar Seni giFTS & SOUvENiRS paradise) from West Papua and the all-but-
(craft market; guwang; h8am-6pm) About 2km vanished Bali starlings. Many are housed
south of Sukawati, this much hyped and in special walk-through aviaries; in one of
very touristy market has every type of knick- the aviaries you follow a walk at tree-level,
knack and trinket on sale. or what some with feathers might say is
Baruna Art Shop ARTS & CRAFTS bird-level. A reptile section includes a Ko-
(%0361-299490; Kubu duah; h10am-5pm) Has modo dragon. It’s popular with kids; allow at
many Barong masks in stock for you to least two hours. It’s located in the village of
ponder.
192
Singapadu within the greater area of Batab- found right along the road to Tegaltamu,
ulan, halfway between Ubud and Denpasar. with another batch further north around
Silakarang. Batubulan is the source of the
Nyoman Suaka Home hiSTORiC BUiLdiNg stunning temple-gate guardians seen all
(Singapadu; requested donation 30,000Rp; h9am- over Bali. The stone used for these sculp-
5pm) This home, which is 50m off the main tures is a porous grey volcanic rock called
road, is just south of Singapadu’s huge paras, which resembles pumice; it’s soft and
banyan tree. Pass through the old carved surprisingly light. It also ages quickly, so
entrance to the walled family compound that ‘ancient’ work may be years rather than
and you’ll discover a classic Balinese home, centuries old.
which you can explore while the family goes Batubulan is also a centre for making
about its daily business. ‘antiques’, textiles and woodwork, and has
numerous craft shops.
Celuk 1 Sights
Celuk is the silver and gold centre of Bali. Pura Puseh Batubulan hiNdU TEMPLE
The flashier showrooms are on the main (admission by donation; h8am-6pm) The tem-
road, and have marked prices that are quite ples around Batubulan are, naturally, noted
high, although you can always bargain. for their fine stonework. Just 200m to the
Hundreds of silversmiths and gold- east of the busy main road, Pura Puseh Batu-
smiths work in their homes on the back- bulan is worth a visit for its moat filled with
streets north and east of the main road. lotus flowers and perfectly balanced overall
Most of these artisans are from pande fam- composition. Statues draw on ancient Hin-
ilies, members of a sub-caste of blacksmiths du and Buddhist iconography and Balinese
whose knowledge of fire and metal has tra- mythology; however, they are not old –
ditionally put them outside the usual caste many are copied from books on archaeology.
hierarchy. Their small workshops are inter-
esting to visit, and have the lowest prices, 3 Entertainment
UbUd & AroUnd CELUK
UbUd & AroUnd SighTS
but they don’t keep a large stock of finished Barong Dance Show dANCE
work. They will make something to order if (Pura Puseh Batubulan; admission 110,000Rp;
you bring a sample or sketch.
h9 .30am) An attenuated Barong dance
show about the iconic lion-dog creature is
UbUd & AroUnd SOUTh OF UBUd
Batubulan performed in an ugly hall; it’s a bus-tour-
friendly one-hour-long show. Note that Pura
The start of the main road to Ubud from Puseh means ‘central temple’ – you’ll find
south Bali is lined with outlets for stone many around Bali. Some translations have
sculptures – stone carving is the main craft ‘Puseh’ meaning ‘navel’, which is apt.
of Batubulan (moonstone). Workshops are
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
East Bali
Includes ¨ Why Go?
Sideman . . . . . . . . . . . 202 Wandering the roads of east Bali is one of the island’s great
Gunung Agung . . . . . 205 pleasures. Rice terraces spill down hillsides under swaying
Padangbai . . . . . . . . . .207 palms, wild volcanic beaches are washed by pounding surf
Amlapura . . . . . . . . . . .216 and age-old villages soldier on with barely a trace of mo-
Amed & the dernity. Watching over this region is Gunung Agung, the
3142m volcano known as the ‘navel of the world’ and ‘Moth-
Far East Coast . . . . . . 220 er Mountain’, which has a perfect conical shape.
Tulamben . . . . . . . . . . 224 You can find Bali’s past amid evocative ruins in the for-
mer royal city of Semarapura. Follow the rivers coursing
down the slopes on the Sideman road to find vistas and val-
leys where you can try to invent new words for ‘green’. Down
Best Places at the coast is groovy Padangbai and relaxed Candidasa.
to Eat Resorts and hidden beaches dot the seashore and cluster
on the Amed coast. Just north of there, Tulamben is all about
¨ Bali Asli (p217) external exploration: the entire town is geared for diving.
¨ Vincent’s (p215)
¨ Gianyar Night Market When to Go
(p198)
¨ Amankila Restaurant ¨ The best time to visit east Bali is during the dry
(p212) season – April to September – although recent weather
patterns have made the dry season wetter and the wet
¨ Warung Ida (p203)
season drier. Hiking in the lush hills from Gunung Agung
¨ Warung Enak (p224) over to Tirta Gangga is much easier when it isn’t muddy.
¨ Along the coast there’s little reason to pick one month
Best Places over another; it’s usually just tropical.
to Sleep ¨ Top-end resorts may book up in peak season (July,
August and Christmas), but it’s never jammed like south
¨ Meditasi (p224) Bali.
¨ Anda Amed Resort (p223) ¨ To surf the breaks off the beaches northeast of Sanur,
aim for October to March.
¨ Alam Anda (p227)
¨ Villa Arjuna (p217)
¨ Komune Bali (p197)
¨ Aman kila (p211)
194
# \
East Bali Yen Sanih (14km) D Sembirenteng
Tejakula (2km);
Highlights Sungai Daya
1 Kertha Gosa # Penginyahan Gunung
\
(p200) Sensing # Kembangsari Penulisan
\
(1745m)
Bali’s violent past # \ R
and proud traditions Dusa
of sacrifice at # Penulisan
\
Semarapura’s Mabi
historical site . # \ Gunung Songan # \
Batur
2 Sideman (p202) # Catur (1717m)
\
R
Trekking this picture-
perfect valley .
3 Padangbai Kintamani # \ Toya Bungkah # \
(p207) Chilling with # \Batur Danau
Batur
new friends at the
mellow cafes and R
laid-back beaches of # Peludu # \ Penelokan
\
this port town . # Pelaga
\
4 Amed Coast
(p220) Finding # Katung
\
your perfect lotus # Nungnung
\
position at an inn
perched along the
little villages of this # \ Sungai Wos
beautiful coast . # \ Sungai Petanu
\
5 Tulamben (p224) # Penyabangan # Sandakan
\
East Bali Diving into the blue
# Belong
\
waters to explore the # Petang
East Bali
\
famous shipwreck
right off the beach.
6 Pura Lempuyang
(p219) Counting the Sungai Ayung # \
shades of green on # \ Sebatu \ #
one of the longest
Payangan # \ # \ Tampaksiring # \
East Bali BAli HiGHliGHTS and best uphill treks
of your life .
# Ceking Telagawaja
\
7 Pantai Klotek Sekar # \
(p196) Marvelling at Keliki # \ # Tegallalang Demulih # \ # \ Bangli # \ Tembuku
\
the combination of # \
the sacred and the # \ Sangeh Bukit Jambal Sungai
sublime amidst lots Payogan # Jungjungan # \
#
\
\
of black sand . Kedewatan # \
# Petulu
\
Sayan \ # # Andong Sungai Pakerisan Sidemen Rd
\
# \
Ubud
Penestanan \ # # Pejeng
\
# Peliatan Pura Kertha
\
Nyuhkuning # \ # \ # Bedulu Dalem Tihingan Gosa
Pengosekan # Teges \ Sidan # \ Sidan # \ #
1
\
# Þ
Kangetan Kutri # \ Gianyar # \ Semarapura # \
\
#
\
# \ # \ # Mas Peteluan Kamasan # \
Mambal Bone Banda # \ Gelgel # \
# \
# Sibang Sakah \ # # \ # \ Belega Pura Pura Batu
\
Klotek
#
\
Kemenuh Blahbatuh Segara Siyut # Þ
Ù
#
\
Negari \ # # Tegenungan Lebih # Þ # \ Pantai 7
# æ #
# \ #
Ù
\
# \ # Batuan Bali Safari & # æ Pantai Siyut Lepang Pantai
# \ Puaya # \ Sukawati Marine Park
# Lebih Beach
Singapadu \ # \ # Pantai Ù Ù Klotek
#
#
Tegaltamu # \ Celuk # \ Keramas Ù Pantai Masceti
# \ # \ Saba # Pantai Pering
Ù
# Pantai Purnama
Ù
# \ D Ketewel (3km)
Batubulan # Guwang
\
#
^
195
# e 0 0 5 miles 10 km
Tembok #\
B A L I
S E A
Tianyar #\
Ban # \
#\ Kubu
RGunung # \ # # Ý
# Liberty
Abang (2152m) Tulamben æ 5
Kubu
Region
Daya #\
Gunung
Agung Amed
(3142m) Dalah #\ #\ Culik \ # # \ Jemeluk
R
Sungai Yehunda Besakih #\ Lebih Þ # Pasar Tanah Amed Coast Banutan East Bali
# #
æ 4
Pura
# \
# \Lipah
# Lehan
Pura
\
Aron
#
Þ
# Þ
á
#\
East Bali
\
#\
Pura
Besakih
Sambu Agung # Pidpid Abang #\ #\ Ngis Gunung # Bangli #\ Aas East Bali BAli HiGHliGHTS
æ #
Pura # Lempuyang
6
R(1058m)
Desi Ababi #\ Lempuyang R
Tirta Gangga #\ #\ Gunung Seraya
#\ Menanga Basangalas (1175m)
Bukit Kusambi #\ #\ Krotok
Rendang Muncan Budakeling \ # #\ Tauka #\ Seraya
#\ #\ #\ Duda Jungutan \ # Bebandem # Peladung # Amlapura
\
Telagawaja Sungai Unda Selat #\ #\ Putung Sibetan Abian Soan #\ Subagan
#\
^
#\
#\
#\ Iseh
Bungaya
#\
#\ Ujung
Sungai # # #Sidemen Tenganan #\ Sungai Buu # \ Asak #\ Teluk Penyu
\ æ 2
#\ Tabola Manggis #\ #\ Perasi
Sidemen Rd Sangai Betel Buitan # \ Sengkidu c Gamang Pass
Pura
#\
#\
Pasir
#
\
#\ Tanah
Ù
# Putih
Ampo Mendira Candidasa Gili Mimpang
Teluk Amuk
Padangbai # # Gili Tepekong
æ 3
Lawah D
\ # Lombok
Þ
# Pura Goa Lawah
\ # (34km)
#\ Kusamba
Selat
Coast Rd Lombok
Nusa Penida D
(4km)
196
and still others are already well-trod and
Coast Road to Kusamba lead to beaches where fun and frolic are es-
Bali’s coast road running from just north tablished.
of Sanur east to a junction past Kusamba The shoreline is striking, with beaches in
should really be named Beach Road. It runs volcanic shades of grey pounded by waves.
past a whole swathe of black-sand beach- The entire coast has great religious signifi-
es and has made it easy to visit all sorts of cance and there are oodles of temples. At the
sandy places you couldn’t easily reach back many small coastal-village beaches, crema-
when the road east meandered through tion formalities reach their conclusion when
towns far inland such as Gianyar and the ashes are consigned to the sea. Ritual
Semarapura. purification ceremonies for temple artefacts
Efforts to widen the two lanes to four are are also held on these beaches.
nearly complete and are sorely needed. The Some key points:
road is lined with scores of warungs (food ¨ Ketewel and Keramas are top spots for
stalls) and trucker cafes along its length. surfing.
Tourism development has begun in earnest ¨ Swimming in the often pounding surf is
and you’ll see plenty of new residential villas dangerous.
aimed at foreigners. ¨ Some beaches have no shade.
The coast road (formally Prof Dr Ida Ba-
gus Mantra Bypass – named for a popular ¨ Most beaches have a food or drinks
1980s Balinese governor who did much to vendor or two, at least.
promote culture) makes Padangbai, Candi- ¨ You’ll need your own transport to reach
dasa and points east an easy day trip from these beaches.
south Bali, depending on traffic.
¨ Locals will charge you an access fee –
1 Sights about 5000Rp.
Bali Safari & Marine Park AMuSEMENT PARK ¨ Rubbish is a depressing fact at most of
East Bali
(%0361-950000; www .balisafarimarinepark .com; the beaches.
off Prof Dr ida Bagus Mantra Bypass; adult/child oPantai Klotek BEACH
from uS$60/40; h9am-5pm, Bali Agung show The lovely 800m drive along the hilly road
East Bali SiGHTS
2 .30pm Tue-Sun) This big-ticket animal-theme off the coast road is but a prelude to this very
park is filled with critters whose species interesting beach. The quiet at the temple,
never set foot in Bali until their cage door Pura Watu Klotok, belies its great signifi-
opened. Displays are large and naturalistic. cance: sacred statues are brought here from
A huge menu of extra-cost options includes Pura Besakih for ritual cleansing. There are
animal rides and a night safari. Visitors snack vendors and a new beachside brick
should note the park stages animal shows walk. Admire the pale blue flowers – they’re
that include elephants: animal welfare advo- sacred – on the wild midori shrubs here.
cates claim these are unnatural and harmful
East Bali CoAST RoAD To KuSAMBA
for the animals. Pantai Lebih BEACH
One of the major attractions is the glossy Lebih Beach has glittering mica-infused
stage show Bali Agung. For the 60-minute sand. Just off the main road, the large Sun-
show, Balinese culture is given the Vegas gai Pakerisan (Pakerisan River), which starts
treatment with spectacular results. It’s not near Tampaksiring, reaches the sea near
traditional but it is eye-popping. here. Fishing boats line the shore, which
The park is north of Lebih Beach; free is fitting as there’s a strip of warungs with
shuttles run to tourist centres across south specialities that include sate ikan laut (fish
Bali. There is a lot of pressure to buy packag- satay) and rich seafood soup. The air is red-
es as opposed to simple admission. olent with the smell of BBQ fish; this is an
excellent stop for lunch. Large convenience
r Beaches stores offer supplies good for other beaches.
As you head east on the coast road from Sa- North, just across the coast road, impres-
nur, pretty much any road or lane heading sive Pura Segara looks across the strait to
south will end up at a beach. Some will take Nusa Penida, home of Jero Gede Macaling
you to quiet beaches, others will lead you to (king of the demons) – the temple helps pro-
beaches where development is underway tect Bali from his evil influence.
197
Pantai Lepang BEACH short and direct road just east. About 12km
Worth visiting just for the threatened slice from Sanur, this beach has a few drinks
of rural Bali you pass through on the 600m vendors on the burnt-umber-hued sand and
drive from the main road. Down at the there is a small temple, covered shelters and
carbon-coloured sand you’ll find small a palm-shaded parking area.
dunes, no shade, a couple of vendors and
a lot of reasons to snap some pics. A sign 4 Sleeping
explains that this is a sea turtle sanctuary. oKomune Bali BouTiQuE HoTEl $$
Just west, however, is the enormous new (%0361-301 8888; www .komuneresorts .com; Jl
Wyndham Tamansari Jivva Resort, which is Pantai Keramas, Keramas; r from uS$100; aWs)
a harbinger of things to come. This high-profile surf resort has erected
Pantai Purnama BEACH light towers for night surfing, which has
(Purnama) Small, but has the blackest sand, proven hugely popular. Despite this, the ho-
reflecting billions of sparkles in the sunlight. tel has actually done a good job of trying to
Religion is big here: the temple, Pura Erje- blend into the existing landscape. It has a
ruk, is important for irrigation of rice fields, very attractive pool area and a cafe in the
while some of Bali’s most elaborate full-moon dune up from the high-tide line.
purification ceremonies are held here each Wyndham Tamansari
month. Villas are appearing as are vendors. Jivva Resort RESoRT $$
Pantai Keramas BEACH (%0366-543 7988; www .wyndhamjivvabali .com;
(Keramas) Villa and hotel projects are sprout- Pantai lepang; r uS$70-150; aWs) A bit of a
ing here. The surf is consistent and world- revolution in the east: this new resort has
class. Unfortunately, an attraction here, 222 rooms and sports a daring, striking de-
Wake Bali, has a pool with captive dolphins. sign. The stark lines contrast well with the East Bali
dark sand here. The rooms are average size
Pantai Siyut BEACH and not all have ocean/beach views.
A mere 300m off the road, and often de- East Bali GiANyAR
serted, this beach is a good place for a par-
asol: there’s no shade otherwise. It remains Gianyar
development-free.
This is the affluent administrative capital
Pantai Masceti BEACH and main market town of the Gianyar dis-
East Bali SlEEPiNG
‘What a strange place’, our friend said. And trict, which also includes Ubud. The town
indeed Masceti beach is a study in contrasts. has a number of factories producing batik
Some 15km east of Sanur, it has a few drinks and ikat fabrics and a compact centre with
vendors and one of Bali’s nine sacred direc- some excellent food, especially at the famous
tional temples, Pura Masceti. Right on the night market.
beach, the temple is built in the shape of a
garuda (a large mythical bird) and enliv- 1 Sights
ened with gaudy statuary. Pura Dalem Sidan TEMPlE
There’s a certain irony to the bird-shape as When driving east from Gianyar you come
both the temple grounds and a huge building to the turn-off to Bangli about 2km out of
nearby are used for cockfights. The feathers Peteluan. Follow this road for about 1km
of losing birds are everywhere. On days with until you reach a sharp bend, where you’ll
no cockfights or ceremonies, the large pavil- find Sidan’s Pura Dalem Sidan. This good
ion is used for other gambling activities. A example of a temple of the dead has very
brick beachwalk is good for strolling. fine carvings. In particular, note the sculp-
tures of Durga with children by the gate and
Pantai Ketewel BEACH the separate enclosure in one corner of the
One of the first beaches you’ll encounter temple – this is dedicated to Merajapati, the
off the coast road, Ketewel is known for its guardian spirit of the dead.
surfing, which demands advanced skills; it’s
a tricky reef-rocky right. Come here to surf 5 Eating
– or watch, although there are no vendors.
People come to Gianyar to sample the mar-
Pantai Pering BEACH ket food, like babi guling (spit-roast pig
Choose your access: a twisting and jungle- stuffed with chilli, turmeric, garlic and gin-
like 1.1km drive from the coast road or a ger – delicious), for which the town is noted.
198
Near the night market are numerous Tenun Ikat Setia Cili TEXTilES
stands selling fresh food, including delec- (%0361-943409; Jl Astina utara; h9am-5pm)
table piseng goreng (banana fritters). The Located at the western end of town on the
food market (Jl Ngurah Rai; h11am-2pm), main Ubud road, 500m apart from its com-
which lines both sides of the main section petitor Cap Togog, is this large textile facto-
of Jl Ngurah Rai, is also good for sampling. ry. Connoisseurs of handwoven fabrics will
be fit to be tied (dyed?). This place has a
oGianyar Night Market MARKET $ showroom where you can buy material by
(Jl Ngurah Rai; dishes from 15,000Rp; h5-11pm) the metre or have it tailored.
The sound of scores of cooking pots and
the glare of bright lights add a frenetic and 8 Getting There & Away
festive clamour to Gianyar’s delicious night
market, which any local will tell you has Regular bemos run between Batubulan terminal
some of the best food in Bali. Scores of stalls near Denpasar and Gianyar’s main terminal
(15,000Rp), which is behind the main market .
set up each night in the centre and cook up Bemo to/from ubud (10,000Rp) use the bemo
a mouthwatering and jaw-dropping range of stop across the road from the main market .
dishes.
Much of the fun is just strolling, browsing
and choosing. There’s everything from babi Bangli
guling to succulent combinations of vegeta-
bles that defy description. The average cost Halfway up the slope to Penelokan, Bangli,
of a dish is 15,000Rp; with a group you can once the capital of a kingdom, is a humble
sample a lot and be the happier for it. Peak market town noteworthy for its sprawling
time is the two hours after sunset. Best of all, temple, Pura Kehen, which is on a beautiful
the night market is only a 20-minute drive jungle road that runs east past rice terraces
from Ubud: a driver will bring you here for and connects at Sekar with roads to Ren-
140,000Rp, including waiting time. dang and Sideman.
East Bali
7 Shopping History
At the western end of town on the main Bangli dates from the early 13th century. In
Ubud road are textile factories that are be- the Majapahit era it broke away from Gel-
East Bali BANGli
loved by connoisseurs of handwoven fabrics. gel to become a separate kingdom, even
East Bali SHoPPiNG
You’ll see weavers at work and observe how though it was landlocked, poor and involved
the thread is dyed before being woven to in long-running conflicts with neighbouring
produce the vibrantly patterned weft ikat, states.
which is called endek in Bali. In 1849 Bangli made a treaty with the
Dutch that gave it control over the defeated
Cap Togog TEXTilES north-coast kingdom of Buleleng, but Bule-
(%0361-943046; Jl Astina utara 11; h8am-5pm) leng then rebelled and the Dutch imposed
This place is on the main drag west of the direct rule there. In 1909 the rajah (lord or
centre. Cap Togog has a fascinating produc- prince) of Bangli chose for it to become a
tion area below; follow the sounds of dozens Dutch protectorate rather than face suicid-
of clacking wooden looms. al puputan (a warrior’s fight to the death)
or complete conquest by the neighbouring
kingdoms or the colonial power.
BUYING FABRIC
1 Sights
You can buy fabric by the metre or
have it tailored. Prices are 50,000Rp to oPura Kehen HiNDu TEMPlE
120,000Rp per metre for handwoven (Jl Sriwijaya; adult/child incl sarong 30,000Rp/free;
ikat, depending on how fine the weaving h9am-5pm) The state temple of the Bangli
is – costs will rise if it contains silk. You kingdom, Pura Kehen is one of the finest
can get a top-quality batik sarong for temples in eastern Bali; it is a miniature ver-
about 600,000Rp (double that if you sion of Pura Besakih, Bali’s most important
include gold accents for your wedding). temple. It’s terraced up the hillside, with
The industry is struggling from competi- a flight of steps leading to the beautifully
tion with machine-made Javanese fab- decorated entrance. The first courtyard has
ric, so your arrival will be welcomed. a huge banyan tree with a kulkul (hollow
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