399
air-conditioned dengan AC KEY PATTERNS
bathroom kamar mandi
cot velbet To get by in Indonesian, mix and match
these simple patterns with words of
window jendela your choice:
When’s (the next bus)?
Jam berapa (bis yang berikutnya)?
DIRECTIONS Where’s (the station)?
Where is …? Di mana …? Di mana (stasiun)?
What’s the address? Alamatnya di mana? How much is it (per night)?
Could you write it Anda bisa tolong tuliskan? Berapa (satu malam)? Language DIRECTIONS
down, please? I’m looking for (a hotel).
Can you show me Anda bisa tolong tunjukkan Saya cari (hotel).
(on the map)? pada saya (di peta)? Do you have (a local map)?
Ada (peta daerah)?
Is there (a toilet)?
at the corner di sudut Ada (kamar kecil)?
at the traffic lights di lampu merah Can I (enter)?
behind di belakang Boleh saya (masuk)?
in front of di depan Do I need (a visa)?
far (from) jauh (dari) Saya harus pakai (visa)?
left kiri I have (a reservation).
near (to) dekat (dengan) Saya (sudah punya booking).
I need (assistance).
next to di samping Saya perlu (dibantu).
opposite di seberang I’d like (the menu).
right kanan Saya minta (daftar makanan).
straight ahead lurus I’d like (to hire a car).
Saya mau (sewa mobil).
Could you (help me)?
EATING & DRINKING Bisa Anda (bantu) saya?
What would you Apa yang Anda
recommend? rekomendasikan?
What’s in that dish? Hidangan ituisinya apa? Key Words
That was delicious. Ini enak sekali. baby food (formula) susu kaleng
Cheers! Bersulang! bar bar
Bring the bill/check, Tolong bawa kuitansi. bottle botol
please. bowl mangkuk
breakfast sarapan
I don’t eat … Saya tidak mau makan … cafe kafe
dairy products susu dan keju children’s menu menu untuk anak-anak
fish ikan cold dingin
(red) meat daging (merah) dinner makan malam
peanuts kacang tanah dish piring
seafood makanan laut drink list daftar minuman
food makanan
a table … meja … food stall warung
at (eight) o’clock pada jam (delapan) fork garpu
for (two) people untuk (dua) orang glass gelas
highchair kursi tinggi
hot (warm) panas
knife pisau
400
cauliflower blumkol
SIGNS
cucumber timun
Buka Open dates kurma
Dilarang Prohibited eggplant terung
Kamar Kecil Toilets fruit buah
grapes
buah anggur
Keluar Exit lemon jeruk asam
Masuk Entrance orange jeruk manis
Pria Men pineapple nenas
Tutup Closed potato kentang
Wanitai Women raisins kismis
spinach bayam
lunch makan siang vegetable sayur-mayur
menu daftar makanan watermelon semangka
market pasar
napkin tisu
plate piring Other
restaurant rumah makan bread roti
Language E ATING & DRINKING
salad selada butter mentega
soup sop cheese keju
spicy pedas chilli cabai
spoon sendok chilli sauce sambal
vegetarian food makanan tanpa daging egg telur
madu
honey
with dengan jam selai
without tanpa noodles mie
oil minyak
Meat & Fish pepper lada
rice
nasi
beef daging sapi salt garam
carp ikan mas soy sauce kecap
chicken ayam sugar gula
duck bebek vinegar cuka
fish ikan
lamb daging anak domba
mackerel tenggiri Drinks
meat daging beer bir
pork daging babi coconut milk santan
shrimp/prawn udang coffee kopi
tuna cakalang juice
turkey kalkun jus
milk susu
palm sap wine tuak
Fruit & Vegetables red wine anggur merah
apple apel soft drink minuman ringan
tea
banana pisang water teh
beans kacang white wine air
anggur putih
cabbage kol
carrot wortel yogurt susu masam kental
401
EMERGENCIES in the morning pagi
Help! Tolong saya! in the afternoon siang
I’m lost. Saya tersesat. in the evening malam
Leave me alone! Jangan ganggu saya!
There’s been an Ada kecelakaan. today hari ini
accident. tomorrow besok
yesterday kemarin
Can I use your phone? Boleh saya pakai telpon Monday hari Senin
genggamnya? Tuesday hari Selasa
Call a doctor! Panggil dokter! Wednesday hari Rabu
Call the police! Panggil polisi! Thursday hari Kamis Language EMERGENCIES
I’m ill. Saya sakit. Friday hari Jumat
It hurts here. Sakitnya di sini. Saturday hari Sabtu
I’m allergic to Saya alergi (antibiotik). Sunday hari Minggu
(antibiotics).
January Januari
SHOPPING & SERVICES February Februari
I’d like to buy … Saya mau beli … March Maret
I’m just looking. Saya lihat-lihat saja. April April
May I look at it? Boleh saya lihat? May Mei
I don’t like it. Saya tidak suka. June Juni
How much is it? Berapa harganya? July Juli
It’s too expensive. Itu terlalu mahal. August Agustus
Can you lower the Boleh kurang? September September
price? October Oktober
There’s a mistake Ada kesalahan dalam November Nopember
in the bill. kuitansi ini.
credit card kartu kredit December Desember
foreign exchange kantor penukaran mata
office uang asing TRANSPORT
internet cafe warnet
mobile/cell phone hanpon Public Transport
post office kantor pos bicycle-rickshaw becak
signature tanda tangan boat (general) kapal
tourist office kantor pariwisata boat (local) perahu
bus bis
TIME & DATES minibus bemo
What time is it? Jam berapa sekarang? motorcycle-rickshaw bajaj
It’s (10) o’clock. Jam (sepuluh). motorcycle-taxi ojek
It’s half past (six). Setengah (tujuh). plane pesawat
taxi taksi
QUESTION WORDS train kereta api
How? Bagaimana?
What? Apa? I want to go to … Saya mau ke …
When? Kapan? How much to …? Ongkos ke … berapa?
Where? Di mana? At what time does it Jam berapa berangkat?
leave?
Which Yang mana? At what time does it Jam berapa sampai di …?
Who? Siapa? arrive at …?
Why? Kenapa? Does it stop at …? Di … berhenti?
402
NUMBERS Driving & Cycling
1 satu I’d like to hire a … Saya mau sewa …
2 dua 4WD gardan ganda
3 tiga bicycle sepeda
4 empat car mobil
5 lima motorcycle sepeda motor
6 enam
7 tujuh child seat kursi anak untuk di mobil
8 delapan diesel solar
9 sembilan helmet helem
10 sepuluh mechanic montir
20 duapuluh petrol/gas bensin
30 tigapuluh pump (bicycle) pompa sepeda
40 empatpuluh service station pompa bensin
50 limapuluh
60 enampuluh Is this the road to …? Apakah jalan ini ke …?
Language LOCAL L ANGUAGES
70 tujuhpuluh (How long) Can I park (Berapa lama) Saya boleh
here?
80 delapanpuluh The car/motocycle parkir di sini?
90 sembilanpuluh has broken down. Mobil/Motor mogok.
100 seratus I have a flat tyre. Ban saya kempes.
1000 seribu I’ve run out of petrol. Saya kehabisan bensin.
What’s the next stop? Apa nama halte
berikutnya? LOCAL LANGUAGES
Please tell me when Tolong, beritahu waktu
we get to … kita sampai di …
Please stop here. Tolong, berhenti di sini. Balinese
How are you? Kenken kabare?
the first pertama What’s your name? Sire wastene?
the last terakhir My name is … Adan tiange …
the next yang berikutnya I don’t understand. Tiang sing ngerti.
How much is this? Ji kude niki?
a … ticket tiket … Thank you. Matur suksma.
1st-class kelas satu What do you call this Ne ape adane di Bali?
2nd-class kelas dua in Balinese?
one-way sekali jalan Which is the way Kije jalan lakar kel …?
to …?
return pulang pergi
aisle seat tempat duduk Sasak
dekat gang What’s your name? Saik aranm side?
cancelled dibatalkan My name is … Arankah aku …
delayed terlambat I don’t understand. Endek ngerti.
platform peron How much is this? Pire ajin sak iyak?
ticket office loket tiket Thank you. Tampak asih.
timetable jadwal What do you call this Ape aran sak iyak elek
train station stasiun kereta api in Sasak? bahase Sasek?
window seat tempat duduk Which is the way Lamun lek …, embe
dekat jendela to …? eak langantah?
403
GLOSSARY
adat – tradition, customs and bemo – popular local trans- endek – elegant fabric, like
manners port in Bali and on Lombok; songket, with pre-dyed weft
adharma – evil usually a small minibus but threads
aling aling – gateway backed can be a small pick-up in rural
by a small wall areas Gajah Mada – famous
alus – identifiable ‘goodies’ in bensin – petrol (gasoline) Majapahit prime minister who
an arja drama beruga – communal meeting defeated the last great king of
anak-anak – children hall in Bali; open-sided pavilion Bali and extended Majapahit
power over the island
angker – evil power on Lombok Galungan – great Balinese Language GLOSSARY
bhur – world of demons
apotik – pharmacy festival; an annual event in
arja – refined operatic form bhwah – world of humans the 210-day Balinese wuku
of Balinese theatre; also a Brahma – the creator; one of calendar
dance-drama, comparable to the trinity of Hindu gods gamelan – traditional
Western opera Brahmana – the caste of Balinese orchestra, with
Arjuna – a hero of the priests and the highest of the mostly percussion instru-
Mahabharata epic and a Balinese castes; all priests ments like large xylophones
popular temple gate guard- are Brahmanas, but not all and gongs; may have one to
ian image Brahmanas are priests more than two dozen musi-
bu – mother; shortened form cians; also used to refer to
bahasa – language; Bahasa of ibu individual instruments such as
Indonesia is the national bukit – hill; also the name of drums; also called a gong
language of Indonesia Bali’s southern peninsula Ganesha – Shiva’s
bale – an open-sided pavil- bulau – month elephant-headed son
ion with a steeply pitched gang – alley or footpath
thatched roof candi – shrine, originally of Garuda – mythical man-bird
bale banjar – communal Javanese design; also known creature, vehicle of Vishnu;
meeting place of a banjar; as prasada modern symbol of Indonesia
a house for meetings and candi bentar – entrance and the national airline
gamelan practice gates to a temple gedong – shrine
bale tani – family house in cendrawasih – birds of genggong – musical perfor-
Lombok; see also serambi paradise mance seen in Lombok
balian – faith healer and cengceng – cymbals gili – small island (Lombok)
herbal doctor cidomo – horse cart with car goa – cave; also spelt gua
banjar – local division of a wheels (Lombok) gong – see gamelan
village consisting of all the cili – representations of Dewi
married adult males Sri, the rice goddess gong gede – large or-
chestra; traditional form of
banyan – a type of ficus tree, the gamelan with 35 to 40
often considered holy; see dalang – puppet master and musicians
also waringin storyteller in a wayang kulit
bapak – father; also a polite performance gong kebyar – modern,
popular form of a gong gede,
form of address to any older Dalem Bedaulu – legend- with up to 25 instruments
man; also pak ary last ruler of the Pejeng
Barong – mythical lion-dog dynasty gua – cave; also spelt goa
creature danau – lake gunung – mountain
baten tegeh – decorated desa – village gunung api – volcano
pyramids of fruit, rice cakes dewa – deity or supernatural gusti – polite title for mem-
and flowers spirit bers of the Wesia caste
batik – process of colouring dewi – goddess
fabric by coating part of the Dewi Sri – goddess of rice Hanuman – monkey god
cloth with wax, dyeing it and who plays a major part in the
melting the wax out; the dharma – good Ramayana
waxed part is not coloured, dokar – horse cart; known as homestay – small, family-run
and repeated waxing and a cidomo on Lombok accommodation; see also
dyeing builds up a pattern Durga – goddess of death losmen
batu bolong – rock with a and destruction, and consort ibu – mother; also a polite
hole of Shiva form of address to any older
belalu – quick-growing, light dusun –small village woman
wood
404
Ida Bagus – honourable title drum used to sound a warning ogoh-ogoh – huge monster
for a male Brahmana or call meetings dolls used in the Nyepi festival
ikat – cloth where a pattern ojek – motorcycle that carries
is produced by dyeing the labuhan – harbour; also paying passengers
individual threads before called pelabuhan open – tall red-brick buildings
weaving laki-laki – boy
lamak – long, woven padi – growing rice plant
jalak putih – local name for palm-leaf strips used as padmasana – temple shrine
Bali starling decorations in festivals and resembling a vacant chair
jalan – road or street; abbre- celebrations
viated to Jl langse – rectangular decora- pak – father; shortened form
of bapak
jepun – frangipani or tive hangings used in palaces
plumeria trees or temples pantai – beach
Jl – jalan; road or street Legong – classic Balinese paras – a soft, grey volcanic
stone used in stone carving
dance
kahyangan jagat – direc- legong – young girls who pasar – market
tional temples perform the Legong pasar malam – night market
kain – a length of material lontar – specially prepared pecalang – village or banjar
Language GLOSSARY
wrapped tightly around the palm leaves police
hips and waist, over a sarong losmen – small Balinese pedagang – mobile traders
kain poleng – black-and- hotel, often family-run pemangku – temple guard-
white chequered cloth lulur – body mask ians and priests for temple
kaja – in the direction of the lumbung – rice barn with a rituals
mountains; see also kelod round roof; an architectural perempuan – girl
kaja-kangin – corner of the symbol of Lombok plus plus – a combined tax
courtyard and service charge of 21%
kaki lima – mobile food carts Mahabharata – one of the added by midrange and
kala – demonic face often great Hindu holy books, the top-end accommodation and
seen over temple gateways epic poem tells of the battle restaurants
kamben – a length of songket between the Pandavas and pondok – simple lodging
wrapped around the chest for the Kauravas or hut
formal occasions Majapahit – last great Hindu prada – cloth highlighted with
kampung – village or neigh- dynasty on Java gold leaf, or gold or silver paint
and thread
bourhood mekepung – traditional water
kangin – sunrise buffalo races prahu – traditional Indonesian
boat with outriggers
kantor – office meru – multi-tiered shrines prasasti – inscribed copper
in temples; the name comes
kantor imigrasi – immigra- from the Hindu holy mountain plates
tion office Mahameru propinsi – province; Indo-
kantor pos – post office mobil – car nesia has 27 propinsi – Bali
Kawi – classical Javanese; the moksa – freedom from is a propinsi, Lombok and its
language of poetry earthly desires neighbouring island of Sum-
kebyar – a type of dance muncak – barking deer bawa comprise propinsi Nusa
Kecak – traditional Balinese Tenggara Barat (NTB)
dance; tells a tale from the naga – mythical snake-like pulau – island; also called
Ramayana about Prince Rama creature nusa
and Princess Sita nusa – island; also called puputan – warrior’s fight to
kelod – in the direction away pulau the death; an honourable but
from the mountains and to- suicidal option when faced
wards the sea; see also kaja Nusa Tenggara Barat with an unbeatable enemy
(NTB) – West Nusa Teng-
kempli – gong gara; a province of Indonesia pura – temple
kendang – drums comprising the islands of pura dalem – temple of the
kepala desa – village head Lombok and Sumbawa dead
kori agung – gateway to the nyale – worm-like fish caught pura desa – village temple
second courtyard in a temple off Kuta, Lombok for everyday functions
kras – identifiable ‘baddies’ in Nyepi – major annual festival pura puseh – temple of the
an arja drama in the Hindu saka calendar, village founders or fathers,
kris – traditional dagger this is a day of complete still- honouring the village’s origins
kuah – sunset side ness after a night of chasing pura subak – temple of the
rice growers’ association
kulkul – hollow tree-trunk out evil spirits
puri – palace
405
pusit kota – used on road songket – silver- or gold- performances and cockfights;
signs to indicate the centre threaded cloth, handwoven community hall
of town using a floating weft technique waria – female impersonator,
stupas – domes for housing transvestite or transgendered
rajah – lord or prince Buddha relics person; combination of the
Ramadan – Muslim month subak – village association words wanita and pria
of fasting that organises rice terraces waringin – large shady tree
Ramayana – one of the and shares out water for with drooping branches which
great Hindu holy books; these irrigation root to produce new trees;
stories form the keystone of Sudra – common caste to see banyan
many Balinese dances and which the majority of Balinese wartel – public telephone
tales belong office; contraction of warung Language GLOSSARY
Rangda – widow-witch who sungai – river telekomunikasi
represents evil in Balinese swah – world of gods warung – food stall
theatre and dance wayang kulit – leather pup-
raya – main road, eg Jl Raya tahun – year pet used in shadow puppet
Ubud means ‘the main road taksu – divine interpreter for plays; see also dalang
of Ubud’ the gods Wektu Telu – religion pecu-
RRI – Radio Republik Indone- tanjung – cape or point liar to Lombok; originated in
sia; Indonesia’s national radio teluk – gulf or bay Bayan and combines many
broadcaster tenets of Islam and aspects of
rumah makan – restaurant; tika – piece of printed cloth other faiths
or carved wood displaying the
literally ‘eating place’ wuku – Balinese calendar
Pawukon cycle made up of 10 different
tirta – water
saiban – temple or shrine weeks, between one and 10
offering toya – water days long, all running concur-
Sasak – native of Lombok; rently; see also saka
also the language undagi – designer of a build-
sate – satay ing, usually an architect-priest yeh – water; also river
sawah – rice field; see also yoni – female symbol of the
subak Vishnu – the preserver; one Hindu god Shiva
selat – strait of the three great Hindu gods
sepeda – bicycle
Shiva – the creator and de- wantilan – large bale pa-
stroyer; one of the three great vilion used for meetings,
Hindu gods
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
06
406
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OUR READERS many more including Samuel L Bronkowitz. Huge
Many thanks to the travellers who used the last thanks to Amy, the rest of the family and Charlie, who
never once ate my shoes. Love to Alexis Ver Berk-
edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful moes, we’ll always have Bali (Lada Warung or not).
advice and interesting anecdotes:
Ana Tiganescu, Ed Cox, George Nelis, Germma ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
Marjaya, Johannes Feddersen, Kate Larson, Kirsty
Spence, Krissi Hall, Kristian Folkman, Marek Porzycki, Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson
Marina Abate, Maxime Smits, Meaghan Philpott, Mim BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the
Nelson-Gillett, Peter Neundorfer, Rudi Peeters, Sarah Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and
Westelinck, Todd Robins, Valeria Parrini, Vincent Earth System Sciences, 11, 163344.
Janssen
Cover photograph: woman carrying flowers through
rice paddies, Martin Puddy/Getty ©
WRITER THANKS
Ryan Ver Berkmoes
Many thanks to friends like Patticakes, Ibu Cat,
Hanafi, Stuart, Suzanne, Rucina, Neal, Jenny and
Phillip, Ani, Nicoline, Eliot Cohen, Pascal and Pika and
THIS BOOK Destination Editors Sarah Innes, Kellie Langdon, Kate
Reid, Dora Whitaker Mathews, Anne Mulvaney,
This 16th edition of Lonely Product Editor Kate Kiely Fionnuala Twomey, Simon Wil-
Planet’s Bali & Lombok Senior Cartographer Julie liamson, Gabrielle Stefanos
guidebook was researched and Sheridan Cartographer Julie Dodkins
written by Ryan Ver Berkmoes, Book Designer Katherine Cover Researcher Naomi
who also wrote the previous Marsh Parker
edition, and curated by Kate Thanks to Andi Jones, Lauren
Morgan. This guidebook was Assisting Editors Janet Keith, Claire Naylor, Karyn
produced by the following: Austin, Judith Bamber, Melanie
Dankel, Kate James, Gabrielle Noble, Lauren O’Connell
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
407
Index
A Balangan Beach 107-9, Blue Lagoon Beach 207 Pantai Selong Blanak 296
Aas 224 108, 9 Bukit Peninsula 9 Pantai Siyut 197
Abang 234 Bali Aga people 212, 334 Crystal Bay Beach 145 Pantai Tanjung Sanghyang
accommodation 376-8 Bali Arts Festival 23, 131, Double Six Beach 52 136
language 398 25, 356 Dream Beach (east Pantai Ujung 218
activities 23-5, 32-41, see Bali Barat National Park Bali) 216 Pasir Putih 216
259-60, 259
also individual activities Dream Beach (Nusa Pemuteran Beach 254
agriculture 341, see also Bali belly 396 Lembongan) 137 Pererenan Beach 101
subak Bali Bird Park 191-2 Echo Beach 100 Prancak Beach 96
Air Panas Banjar 253 Bali bombings 329 Gegar Beach 115-16 Sanur Beach 121
air travel 386-7 Memorial Wall 53 Gili Air 314 Seminyak Beach 78
airlines 386-7 Bali Botanic Garden 236 Gili Meno 310 Sire 283
alcohol 321, 348-9 Bali Kite Festival 24, Gili Trawangan 300-1 Suluban Beach 113
alcohol poisoning 382, 395 124, 25 Green Bowl Beach 114 Tanjung Aan 294
Amed 220-4, 221 Bali Orchid Garden 121 Heaven Beach 295 Tegalwangi Beach 106
Amlapura 216-17 Bali Safari & Marine Park Impossibles Beach 111 Tuban Beach 52
196
Ampenan 276 Balian Beach 266-7 Jimbaran Beach 104 Virgin Beach 216
amusement parks Balinese language 402 Jungutbatu Beach 136 Bebandem 206
Bali Safari & Marine bamboo 367 Kerobokan Beach 88 bedbugs 397
Park 196 Kuta (Lombok) 290-1 Bedugul 235
Bali Treetop Adventure Bangli 198-9 Kuta Beach 15, 52, 15, 65 Bedulu 183-4
Park 236-7 Bangsal 283 Kuta Reef Beach 52 beer 345, 344
Waterbom Park 53 Banutan 222-3 Legian Beach 52 Belega 190
animal welfare 182, 268, 370 Banyuning 223 Lovina 248 Belimbingsari 268-9
animals 370-1, see also zoos Banyuwedang 258 Nelayan Beach 96 bemos 387-9
& wildlife reserves, bargaining 382 Nusa Dua 115
individual species Barong 351, 356 Benoa Bay
Antosari 242 Barong Landung 144 Padang Padang Beach 111 reclamation project
320-1
Anturan 250, 251 basket-weaving 190, 359-60 Padangbai 207 Benoa Harbour 128
Pandawa Beach 115
arak 382, 395 Bat Cave Temple 207 Pantai Bumbangku 295 bicycle travel, see cycling
architecture 362-8 bathrooms 384 Pantai Dagong 295 Big Tree Farms 188
area codes 19 batik 359 Pantai Keramas 197 Bingin 109-11
art galleries, see museums Batuan 190 Pantai Ketewel 197 bio rocks 255
& galleries Batubulan 192 bird flu 395
arts 350-61, see also Batur 232-3 Pantai Klotek 196
individual arts Bayan 284 Pantai Lebih 196 birds 370
courses 160, 186 beaches 21, 65-7 Pantai Lepang 197 birdwatching
ATMs 380 Balangan Beach 107-9, Pantai Masceti 197 Bali Barat National Park
259
108, 9 Pantai Mawi 296 Bali Bird Park 191-2
B Balian Beach 266-7 Pantai Medewi 267 Petulu 155
babi guling 346-7 Banutan Beach 222 Pantai Mengening 263 Singapadu 191-2
Pantai Patra Jasa 52
Bahasa Indonesia 398-405 Batu Bolong Beach 96 Pantai Pering 197 Ubud 160
Batubelig Beach 88 Pantai Purnama 197 black magic 212, 335
Map Pages 000 Berawa Beach 96 Pantai Segar 294 Blahbatuh 188-9
Photo Pages 000 Bias Tugal 207 Pantai Selegimpak 136 Blongas 297
Bingin Beach 109
408
boat travel ceremonies 335-40 Danau Tamblingan 238-9 drugs 382
safety 142, 388 chemists 395 dance 15, 179, 350-2, 356 Dutch influence 324-5
to/from Bali & Lombok children, travel with dangers, see safe travel
387 42-5, 53 dengue fever 395 E
within Bali & Lombok chocolate 188 Denpasar 128-36, 130 east Bali 47, 193-227, 194
388 cinema 320-1 accommodation 131-2
boat trips & cruises climate 18, 23-5, 378 activities 129-31 accommodation 193
Bali Barat National climate change 373, 386 drinking 133 climate 193
Park 259 clinics 394-5 festivals 131 food 193
Kedisan 233 coffee 349 food 132-3 highlights 194
Nusa Lembongan 138 coffee luwak 189, 349 medical services 135 travel seasons 193
Teluk Gilimanuk 260 consulates 379 sights 128-9 East Bali Poverty Project
INDEX B-F
Bodong 144-5 cooking courses 342 transport to/from 135-6 385
Bona 190 Gili Air 316 transport within 136 Eat, Pray, Love 178
Bonnet, Rudolf 353 Gili Trawangan 302 walking tours 134, 134 Echo Beach 20, 100-1, 95
books 320-1 Lovina 249 departure tax 387 Ekas 295
arts 350, 351. 354 Sanur 122 diarrhoea 396 electricity 378
Eat, Pray, Love, 178 Tanjung Benoa 118-19 disabilities, travellers embassies 379
food 343, 347 Ubud 160-2 with 384 emergencies 19, see also
medical services
history 325, 330 courses, see also cooking diving 10, 12, 36-7, 70, language 401
Brahma Vihara Arama 253 courses 396, 70 environment 369-74
Buahan 233-4 art 160, 186 Amed 220 environmental issues 112,
Bukit Mundi 146 diving 37, 122 Batu Aba 145 373-4
Bukit Peninsula 9, 104-20 jewellery making 160 Blongas Bay 297 development 320-1
resorts 20 language 131, 160, 379 Blue Lagoon 208 fishing 296
bull races 268 music 160 Bodong 144 Gili Islands 309
bus travel 387, 389 surfing 36 Candidasa 213 tourism 370
business hours 19, 381 textiles 160 courses 37, 122 etiquette 301, 334, 379
Covarrubias, Miguel 353 equipment 36-7 events, see festivals
C crafts 358-61 freediving 301 exchange rates 19
Campuan Ridge 161 courses 160, 186 Gili Air 314
Candidasa 212-15, 213 credit cards 380 Gili Gede 277 F
Candikuning 235-7 cremation 336-7 Gili Islands 308 fabric 198, 358-60, 356
Canggu 13, 20, 94, 96-100, cruises, see boat trips & Gili Meno 311-12 fauna, 370-1, see also zoos
cruises
95, 13 Gili Tepekong 213 & wildlife reserves,
car travel 389-91 Crystal Bay Beach 145 Gili Trawangan 301 individual species
carrageenan 143 culture 21, 320-1, 331-41 Kuta (Lombok) 291-2 ferries, see boat travel
caves currency 18 Lovina 248-9 festivals 23-5
Goa Gajah 184 customs regulations 378 Nusa Lembongan 138, Bali Arts Festival 23, 131,
Goa Karangsar 145 cycling 39-40, 389 139 25, 356
Pura Goa Lawah 207 Danau Batur area 234 Nusa Penida 143-4 Bali Kite Festival 24,
Cekik 269-70 Gili Air 314 Padangbai 208 124, 25
Ceking 187 Gili Trawangan 302 Pemuteran 254-5 Galungan 24
cell phones 18, 383 Lovina 249 Pulau Menjangan 257 Kuningan 24
Celuk 192 Nusa Lembongan 138-9 Sanur 121 Nyale Festival 23, 292
Cemagi 263-4 Nusa Penida 143-4 Senggigi 279-80 Nyepi (Day of Silence)
central mountains 47, 228- Tirta Gangga 218-19 Teluk Jepun 208 23, 337
42, 229 tours 39-40 Tulamben 225-6 Ramadan 284, 301
accommodation 228 Ubud 158-9 Djirna, Made 355 Ubud Writers & Readers
climate 228 Umalas 94 dogs 182 Festival 24, 162
food 228 dokar 391 films 320-1
highlights 229 D dolphins 72, 248 flora 371-3
travel seasons 228 daggers 360 Dream Beach 137 food 14, 22, 342-9, 345,
ceramics 361 Dalem Bedaulu 183, 184 drinks 348-9 345, see also cooking
courses
Danau Batur 233-5 coffee luwak 189, 349 babi guling 346-7
Map Pages 000 Danau Bratan 235-40, 236 language 399-400 books 343, 347
Photo Pages 000 Danau Buyan 238-9 driving 389-91 children, travel with 44
Danau Segara Anak 287
409
chocolate 188 Gunung Kawi 187-8 insurance 379 shopping 73-4
language 399-400 Gunung Lempuyang 219 health 393 sights 52-3
vegetarian travellers Gunung Rinjani 16, 286-8, vehicle 390 tours 56
348 339, 286, 17 internet access 379 transport to/from 75
warungs 347 Gunung Seraya 219, 220 internet resources 19 transport within 75
freediving 301 Islam 335 travel seasons 50
H holidays 381 Kuta (Lombok) 290-4, 291
G handicrafts 358-61 itineraries 26-31 Kuta Beach 15, 52, 15, 65
galleries, see museums & hawkers 382 Kuta cowboys 61 INDEX F- L
galleries health 159, 393-7 J Kutri 189-90
Galungan 24 heatstroke 396 Jagaraga 247
gamelan 352 hepatitis 395 Jatiluwih rice terraces L
gardens, see national hiking 37-9 241, 321 Labuhan Lalang 258-9
parks, parks & gardens Amed 220 jellyfish 397 Labuhan Lombok 297
Garuda Wisnu Kencana Bali Barat National Jembrana 267 Lange, Mads 57
Cultural Park 107 Park 259 Jembrana Coast 267-8
gay travellers 380 Candidasa 213 Jemeluk 222 language 18, 398-405
Gelgel 201 Danau Buyan 238 jewellery 361 courses 131, 160, 379
geography 369 Danau Tamblingan 238 Jimbaran 14, 104-6, legal matters 379-80
Gerupuk 294-5 equipment 38 105, 14 Legian 52-75, 54
Gianyar 197-8 Gunung Agung 205-6 Jungutan 206 accommodation 59-60
giardiasis 396 Gunung Batukau 241 Jungutbatu 136, 137-8, beaches 52
Gilbert, Elizabeth 178 Gunung Batur 231-2 139-40 drinking 63, 73
Gili Air 314-18, 315 Gunung Rinjani 285-8 food 63-4
Gili Asahan 277 highlights 38 K medical services 74-5
Gili Gede 277 Lovina 249 Kalibukbuk 250-2 nightlife 73
Gili Islands 12, 48, 298-318, safety 39 safety 74
299 kayaking 316 sights 52-3
accommodation 298 Senaru 284-5 Kecak 351, 356 transport to/from 75
Senggigi 280
climate 298 Sideman 202 Kedisan 233-4 transport within 75
diving 308 Tirta Gangga 218 Kerambitan 265 Legong 351-2, 356
food 298 tours 39 Kerobokan 88-94, 76 Lehan 223
highlights 299 Hillside 140 Kerobokan Jail 88, 330 Lembar 276
itineraries 31 Keruak 297 Lembongan 138
transport 299-300 Hinduism 333-4 Kiadan Pelaga 238 Lempad, I Gusti Nyoman
travel seasons 298 history 322-30 Kintamani 232-3 154
Gili Meno 310-14, 311, 22 Bali bombings 329 kites, see Bali Kite Festival Les 227
books 325, 330
Gili Trawangan 16, 300-10, kitesurfing 53, 121, 291 lesbian travellers 380
302, 304, 2, 67 Hindu influence 323 kopi luwak 189, 349 LGBT travellers 380
accommodation 303-7 independence 326 Kotaraja 289 Lipah 223
activities 301-2 Suharto era 328-9 kris 360 literature, see books
beaches 300-1 volcanic eruptions 328 Kuban 234 Lombok 48, 271-97, 272
drinking 308-10 WWII 326 Kubu 227 accommodation 271
food 307-8 hitchhiking 391 Kuningan 24 climate 271
nightlife 308-10 HIV 395 Kusamba 196-7, 207 food 271
safety 306 holidays 381 Kuta (Bali) 11, 46, 50-101 highlights 272
shopping 310 hospitals 394-5 accommodation 50, itineraries 31
transport to/from 310 hot springs 57-9, 51, 54, 11 travel seasons 271
Gilimanuk 270 Danau Segara Anak 287 activities 53-6 Lovina 247-53, 248
golf courses Kedisan 233 beaches 52 accommodation 249-51
Nusa Dua 115 Lovina 253 climate 50 activities 248-9
Pancasari 237-8 Toya Bungkah 234-5 drinking 63, 64-73 beaches 248
Gondang 284 Yeh Sanih 245 emergencies 75 courses 249
Green School 367 food 50, 61-3 drinking 252
Gunung Agung 205-7, I highlights 51 food 251-2
226-7 ikat 356, 359 medical services 74-5 nightlife 252
Gunung Batukau 240-2 Indonesian language nightlife 11, 64-73 sights 248
Gunung Batur 229-35, 230 398-405 safety 74 tours 249
410
Lovina continued money 18, 380-1 Threads of Life Pancasari 237-8
transport to/from 252-3 monkeys 154, 45, 166 Indonesian Textile Arts Pandawa Beach 115
transport within 253 monuments & memorials Centre 181 Pantai Segar 294
Bajra Sandhi Monument Tonyraka Art Gallery 186 parks & gardens, see also
M 129 Muncan 206 national parks
Munduk 239-40
macaques 154, 45, 166 Gunung Kawi 187-8 music 352-3 Bali Bird Park 191-2
Mada, Gajah 323 Margarana 264 courses 160 Bali Botanic Garden 236
malaria 395 Memorial Wall 53 Bali Orchid Garden 121
Manggis 211 Puputan Monument Garuda Wisnu Kencana
Cultural Park 107
200-1
Mangsit 281 stone pillar 121 N Mayura Water Palace 274
manta rays 72 Tirta Empul 187 names 332 Puputan Square 129
INDEX L-P
Marga 264 war memorial 270 nasi campur 343 Pasir Putih 216
marine life 72, 370-1 mosques national parks passports 384-5
markets 343, 345 Masjid Gelgel 201 Bali Barat National Park Pecatu 104
259-60, 259
Bangli 199 Masjid Kuno 290 Ped 144-6
Bebandem 206 Masjid Kuno Bayan Batur Caldera Geopark Pejaten 265
229
Candikuning 236 Beleq 284 Gunung Rinjani National Pejeng 184-5
Denpasar 133 motorcycle travel 389-91 Park 286-8, 286 Pemuteran 254-8
Gianyar 198 movies 320-1 Negara 268 Penelokan 232
Gili Trawangan 310 Muncan 206 nightlife 21, see also Penujak 290
Jimbaran 104 Munduk 239-40 individual locations Penulisan 233
Jimbaran Fish Market museums & galleries north Bali 47, 243-60, 244 Perancak 268
104 Agung Rai Gallery 155 accommodation 243
Kampung Arab 133 Agung Rai Museum of climate 243 Pererenan Beach 101
Kintamani 233 Art 154-5 food 243 Petulu 155
Kubu 227 Blanco Renaissance highlights 244 pharmacies 395
Lembongan 138 Museum 153-4 travel seasons 243 planning
Mataram 275 Batur Geopark Museum Nusa Ceningan 142-3 Bali & Lombok basics
18-19
Pancasari 237 232 Nusa Dua 114-18, 116 Bali & Lombok’s regions
Pasar Badung 133 Kendra Gallery 87 Nusa Lembongan 136- 46-8
Pasar Kumbasari 133 Ketut Rudi Gallery 155 42, 137 budgeting 19
Semarapura 199 Kody & Ko 87 Nusa Penida 20, 143-6, 41 calendar of events 23-5
Seraya 217 Komaneka Art Gallery Nyale Festival 23, 292 children, travel with 42-5
Seririt 253 152 Nyepi (Day of Silence) costs 376, 379
Sukawati Market 191 Museum Arca 185 23, 337 health 393-4
Tulamben 225 Museum Buleleng 246 internet resources 19
Ubud 172, 175, 176 Museum Le Mayeur 120 O itineraries 26-31
marriage 336 Museum Manusia offerings 340 repeat visitors 20
Mas 185-6 Purbakala Gilimanuk ogoh-ogoh 337 travel seasons 18, 23-5
270
masks 360-1 Museum Negeri Propinsi ojek 391-2 plants 371-3
Masriadi, Nyoman 355 Bali 128-9 opening hours 19, 381 politics 321, 330
Mataram 274-6, 275 Museum Puri Lukisan outdoor activities 32-41 pony carts 391
Mawun (Mawan) 296 149 population 321
McPhee, Colin 154, 353 Museum Rudana 155 P postal services 381
measures 379 Neka Art Museum 152-3 Padang Padang 111-12 pottery 361
Medewi 267-8 Neka Gallery 149, 152 Padangbai 207-11, 208 Praya 290
medical services 394-5, Nyoman Gunarsa processions 9
see also individual Museum 201-2 painting 353-8 Puaya 190-1
locations Pasifika Museum 115 palaces
memorials, see Pranoto’s Art Gallery 155 Klungkung Palace 200 public holidays 381
monuments & Puri Agung Karangasem Pulaki 254
memorials Rio Helmi Gallery & 216-17 Pulau Menjangan 257
mobile phones 18, 383 Cafe 178 Puri Anyar Kerambitan Pulau Serangan 128
Setia Darma House of 265 puppets 180, 186
Masks & Puppets 186 Puri Gede 217
Symon Studios 245 Pupuan 242
Map Pages 000 Taman Wedhi Budaya Taman Tirta Gangga 218 Pura Besakih 204-5, 205
Photo Pages 000 129 Ubud Palace 149 Pura Goa Lawah 207
Palasari 268-9
411
Pura Luhur Ulu Watu 16, transport to/from 127 snorkelling 14, 36-7 T
112-13, 16 transport within 127-8 Amed 220 Tabanan 264-5
Pura Rambu Siwi 269 Sapit 289 Gili Air 314 Taman Ujung 217
Pura Sakenan 128 Sasak language 402 Gili Meno 311-12 Taman Wisata Tetebatu
Pura Taman Ayun 263 Sasak Village 290 Gili Trawangan 301 289
Pura Taman Saraswati Sawan 247 Kuta (Lombok) 291-2 Tampaksiring 187-8
149, 166 Sayur, Gede Suanda 355 Lovina 248-9 Tanglad 145
Pura Tanah Lot 263, 28 scams 383 Nusa Lembongan 138 Tanjung Aan 294
Putra, Agung Mangu 355 sea turtles 72, 254, 310, Padangbai 208-9 Tanjung Benoa 118-20, 118 INDEX P- T
Putra, Wayan Sudarna 355 372, 72 Pemuteran 254-5 Tanjung Desert 277, 278
Putung 211 seaweed 143 Pulau Menjangan 257 Tanjung Luar 297
Selang 223 Senggigi 279-80 Tanjung Sanghyang 141
R Selat 206 Tulamben 225-6 taxis 392
rabies 395-6 Selong 297 Songan 235 Tegallalang 187
rafting 40-1 Selong Blanak 296-7 songket 358 Tejakula 227
Sungai Telagawaja 206 Semarapura 199-201, 200 south Bali 46, 103 telephone services 383
Ubud 159 Semaya 145 accommodation 102 Teluk Penyu 216
Ramadan 284, 301 Sembalun Valley 285-6 climate 102 Tembuku 203
Rangda 356 Sembiran 227 food 102 temples 21, 364, 365-7
religion 283, 321, 333-5 Seminyak 17, 46, 75-88 highlights 103 Bat Cave Temple 207
Rembitan 290 accommodation 50, travel seasons 102 Pura Batu Bolong 278
80-1, 51, 76, 17
Rendang 206 spas 10 Pura Batumejan 96
rice 342-3, 374 activities 79-80 Candidasa 213 Pura Batur 233
rice terraces 241, 321 beaches 78 Gili Air 315 Pura Besakih 204-5,
rituals 335-40 climate 50 Gili Trawangan 302 205
drinking 84-5
road rules 391 Kerobokan 88-9 Pura Bukit Mentik 235
entertainment 86 Kuta (Bali) 53, 56 Pura Dalem Balangan
food 50, 81-4 Lovina 249 107
S highlights 51 Sanur 122 Pura Dalem Jagaraga
Sacred Monkey Forest medical services 88 Seminyak 79-80 247
Sanctuary 154, 166 nightlife 84-5 Pura Dalem Penetaran
Sade 290 safety 88 Senggigi 280 Ped 144
safe travel 381-3 shopping 20, 86-8 Tanjung Benoa 118 Pura Dalem
arak 382, 395 sights 78-9 Ubud 157-8 Penunggekan 199
Bali Barat National transport to/from 88 Spies, Walter 154, 202, 353 Pura Dalem Prancak 96
Park 260 travel seasons 50 stone carving 361, 356 Pura Dalem Sidan 197
boats 142, 388 Seminyak Village 20 Suana 145 Pura Dasar Batuan 190
children 43 Senaru 284-5 subak 264-5, 339, 341 Pura Desa Ubud 149
hiking 39 Senggigi 278-83, 279 Sukaraja 297 Pura Gaduh 189
Gili Islands 306 Seraya 217 Sukarara 290 Pura Gede Luhur Batu
Kuta (Bali) 74 Seririt 253-4 Sukawati 190-1 Ngaus 263
Kuta (Lombok) 294 sex tourism 380 Sungai Ayung Valley 163 Pura Gegar 115
Sakti 146 shadow puppets 180, 186 surfing 12, 32-6, 68, 34 Pura Gili Kencana 257
sambal 346 sharks 72 courses 36 Pura Goa Lawah 207
Sampalan 144 shipwrecks 33, 138, 225, festivals 24 Pura Gunung Lebah 152
Sana, Ketut 355 308 Gili Air 314 Pura Jagatnatha 129
Sanda 242 shopping 22, 133-5, see Gili Trawangan 301 Pura Jagat Natha 246
Sangsit 247 also markets, individual Kuta (Bali) 53 Pura Kebo Edan 185
Sanur 120-8, 122 locations Kuta (Lombok) 291 Pura Kehen 198-9
accommodation 122-4 language 401 Nusa Ceningan 142 Pura Lempuyang 219
activities 121-2 textiles 198, 358 Nusa Dua 115 Pura Lingsar 276
courses 122 Sibetan 206 Nusa Lembongan 138 Pura Luhur Batukau 241
drinking 127 Sideman 202-3 Padang Padang 111 Pura Luhur Ulu Watu 16,
food 125-7 Singapadu 191-2 Sanur 121 112-13, 16
medical services 127 Singaraja 245-7 Seminyak 80 Pura Maduwe Karang
nightlife 127 Sire 283 Tanjung Desert 277 247
shopping 127 Smit, Arie 154 Ulu Watu 113 Pura Maospahit 129
sights 120 Snel, Han 154 swimming 245, 382, see Pura Mas Suka 114
also beaches
412
temples continued Toya Bungkah 234-5 Ujung 217 227
Pura Meru 274 Toyapakeh 145 Ulu Watu 112-14, 108 Batukandik 145
Pura Pancering Jagat traditional medicine 159 Umalas 94 Munduk 240
234 train travel 387 Ungasan 114 Singsing Dua 253
Pura Penataran 269 transport wayang kulit 353
Pura Penataran Agung to/from Bali & Lombok V weather 18, 23-5, 378
204 386-7 websites 19
Pura Penataran Sasih within Bali & Lombok vacations 381 weights 379
185 387-92 vaccinations 394 Wektu Telu 283, 335
Pura Ponjok Batu 245 trekking, see hiking vegetarian travellers 348 west Bali 48, 261-70, 262
Pura Puncak Penulisan Trunyan 234 visas 18, 384-5 accommodation 261
233 Tuban 52, 57, 60-1, 64, 58 volcanoes 369
INDEX T-Z
Pura Puseh Batuan 190 Tulamben 224-6 Gunung Batukau 240-2 climate 261
Pura Puseh Batubulan turtles 72, 254, 310, Gunung Batur 230-2, food 261
192 372, 72 230 highlights 262
Pura Pusering Jagat 185 typhoid 396 Gunung Rinjani 286-8 travel seasons 261
Pura Rambu Siwi 269 volunteering 146, 385 wi-fi 379
Pura Samuan Tiga 184 U women in Bali & Lombok
Pura Silayukti 207 W 333
Pura Taman Ayun 263 Ubud 11, 47, 147-83, 148, walking tours women travellers 385, 397
150, 156, 11, 28
Pura Taman Pule Mas accommodation 147, Campuan Ridge 161, 161 woodcarving 360-1
186 162-72 Denpasar 134, 134
Pura Taman Saraswati Sungai Ayung Valley Y
149, 166 activities 155-9 163, 163 Yeh Gangga 265
Pura Taman Sari 201 climate 147 walks Yeh Pulu 184
Pura Tanah Lot 263, 28 courses 160 Batubelig Beach to Echo Yeh Sanih 245
Pura Ulun Danu Bratan drinking 178-9 Beach 96 yoga
236 entertainment 179-80 Sanur beachfront 121 Gili Air 314-15
Tenganan 212 festivals 162 Ubud 164 Gili Meno 312
Tetebatu 288-9 food 147, 172-8 Wallace, Sir Alfred 373 Gili Trawangan 302
textiles 198, 358-60, 356, highlights 148 warungs 347 Kerobokan 88
see also ikat history 148 water 155, 396
theft 383 internet access 182 water sports 119, see also Kuta (Lombok) 292
Tibubiyu 265 itineraries 149 diving, kitesurfing, Sanur 122
ticks 397 medical services 182-3 rafting, snorkelling, Seminyak 80
Tihingan 201-2 nightlife 178-9 surfing Ubud 157-8
time 18, 383 shopping 180-2 waterfalls
tipping 381 sights 148-55 Air Terjun Gangga 284 Z
Tirta Empul 187 tourist information 183 Air Terjun Gitgit 247 zoos & wildlife reserves
Tirta Gangga 218-20 tours 159-60 Air Terjun Jukut 289 Bali Bird Park 191-2
toilets 384 transport to/from 183 Air Terjun Sindang Bali Safari & Marine
tourist information 384 transport within 183 Gila 284 Park 196
tours 39-40, 392, see also travel seasons 147 Air Terjun Singsing 253 Proyek Penyu 254
walking tours, individual walking tours 161, 163, Air Terjun Tiu Kelep 284 Sacred Monkey Forest
locations 161, 163 Air Terjun Tiu Pupas 284 Sanctuary 154, 166
touts 382 Ubud Writers & Readers Air Terjun Yeh Mampeh Turtle Sanctuary 310
Festival 24, 162
Map Pages 000
Photo Pages 000
413
NOTES
414 EMMA NEUVONEN
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Map Legend
Sights Information Routes
Beach Bank Tollway
Bird Sanctuary Embassy/Consulate Freeway
Buddhist Hospital/Medical Primary
Castle/Palace Internet Secondary
Christian Police Tertiary
Confucian Post Office Lane
Hindu Telephone Unsealed road
Islamic Toilet Road under construction
Jain Tourist Information Plaza/Mall
Jewish Other Information Steps
Monument Geographic Tunnel
Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Pedestrian overpass
Ruin Beach Walking Tour
Shinto Gate Walking Tour detour
Sikh Hut/Shelter Path/Walking Trail
Taoist Lighthouse
Winery/Vineyard Lookout Boundaries
Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Mountain/Volcano International
Other Sight Oasis State/Province
Activities, Park Disputed
Pass
Regional/Suburb
Courses & Tours Picnic Area Marine Park
Bodysurfing Waterfall Cliff
Diving Wall
Canoeing/Kayaking Population Hydrography
Course/Tour Capital (National)
Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Capital (State/Province) River, Creek
Skiing City/Large Town Intermittent River
Snorkelling Town/Village Canal
Surfing
Swimming/Pool Transport Water
Walking Airport Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake
Windsurfing Border crossing Reef
Other Activity Bus
Sleeping Cable car/Funicular Areas
Cycling
Sleeping Ferry Airport/Runway
Camping Metro/MRT/MTR station Beach/Desert
Eating Monorail Cemetery (Christian)
Parking
Eating Petrol station Cemetery (Other)
Drinking & Nightlife Skytrain/Subway station Glacier
Taxi
Drinking & Nightlife Train station/Railway Mudflat
Cafe Tram Park/Forest
Entertainment Underground station Sight (Building)
Other Transport
Entertainment
Sportsground
Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed above Swamp/Mangrove
Shopping appear on the maps in this book
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