Bali & Lombok

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd









On the


Road



















North Bali
p243 Central Gili Islands
Mountains
West Bali p228 p298
p261 East Bali
Ubud & p193 Lombok
Around p271
p147
Kuta &
Seminyak South Bali &
p50 the Islands
p102

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd













Kuta & Seminyak






Includes ¨ Why Go?
Kuta & Legian . . . . . . . .52 Crowded and hectic, the swathe of south Bali hugging the
Seminyak . . . . . . . . . . . .75 amazing ribbon of beach that runs north almost from the
Kerobokan . . . . . . . . . . .88 airport is the place many travellers begin and end their visit
Canggu & Around . . . . .94 to the island.
In Seminyak and Kerobokan there is a bounty of restau-
rants, cafes, designer boutiques, spas and the like that ri-
vals anywhere in the world, while Kuta and Legian are the
choice for rollicking all-night clubbing, cheap singlets and
Best Places carefree family holidays. North around Canggu is Bali’s most
to Eat exciting region, where great beaches vie with enticing cafes
and compelling nightlife.
¨ Sardine (p90) Renowned shopping, all-night clubs, fabulous dining,
¨ Ginger Moon (p84) cheap beer, sunsets that dazzle and relentless hustle and
¨ Sangsaka (p91) bustle are all part of the experience. But just when you
wonder what any of this has to do with Bali – the island
¨ One Eyed Jack (p98) supposedly all about spirituality and serenity – a religious
¨ Warung Goûthé (p98) procession appears and shuts everything down. And then
you know the answer.
Best Places
to Sleep When to Go

¨ Oberoi (p81) ¨ Bali’s ever-increasing popularity means that the best
time to visit Kuta, Seminyak and their neighbours is
¨ Samaya (p81) outside high season (July, August and the weeks around
¨ Alila Seminyak (p89) Christmas and New Year). Holidays in other parts of the
¨ Katamana (p89) world mean that visitor numbers spike and it can require
actual effort to organise tables in the best restaurants,
¨ Hotel Tugu Bali (p97)
navigate trendy shops and get a room with a view.
¨ Many prefer April to June and September, when the
weather is drier and slightly cooler, and the crowds
manageable.
¨ To surf this side of Bali, or just revel in the surf culture,
visit during Bali’s west coast surfing season: April to
September.

51
Echo
Ù
Beach #
Echo ç Nelayan Jl Raya Semer
#
Beach Batu Beach Raya Kerobokan
# #
Bolong Ù 6 # # Canggu
Ù
7
Beach
Ù
# Prancak # Umalas Jl
ç
Beach
Batu
Bolong Berewa Ù Jl Umalas
#
Beach
See Canggu & Echo 444 # Kerobokan
5
444 Kuta & SeminyaK
Beach Map (p95) JI Gunung Tangk uban Perahu
Ù
#
Batubelig
Beach
444 Jl Petitenget Sunga i Mati
4444
Ù
#
Kerobokan
Beach
Seminyak
Kuta & SeminyaK
444 SEMINYAK 3 PEMECUTAN
4444
#
4444
See Seminyak & Ù 4 Seminyak Jl Sunset
# # Beach
Kerobokan Map (p76) Jl Arjuna (Jl See Kuta & Legian
Double Six)
4444 Jl Raya Map (p54)
Teluk Kuta Seminyak
4444
LEGIAN
Jl Melasti
Kuta & SeminyaK & SeminyAK HigHLigHtS
4444 J l Imam Bonjol
Kuta
Jl Pantai Kuta
4444 Jl Pantai Kuta Sungai Badung
#
Kuta
2
(Kuta Beach Rd)
ç
#
1
#
KUTA
Kuta
Jl Majapahit
Beach
444
4444 JI JI Ngurah
Tuban
Ù
#
Beach
444
Kuta ç
4444 TUBAN RayaKuta
#
# e 0 0 1 miles 2 km Reef Ngurah Rai Jl Dewi Sartika Jl Ked iri Rai Bypass
444 See Tuban Map (p58)
International Airport
#
–
Kuta & Seminyak Highlights 444
1 Kuta Beach (p52) Lolling in the myriad boutiques and 6 Batu Bolong Beach (p96)
around on Bali’s original designer outlets . Joining the hip beach and surf
tourist magnet . 4 Seminyak Sunsets (p85) scene, while debating where to
2 Kuta Nightlife (p52) Revelling in a technicolour have a refreshment .
Raving through the night in sunset with a beer . 7 Canggu (p96) making a
the manic clubs and legendary 5 Kerobokan (p88) delightful discovery, be it food,
nightlife scene of Kuta . Savouring a meal at one of drink or commerce, amid rice
3 Seminyak (p75) ignoring the many fabulous and world- fields and villas on the twisting
your resolve while shopping class restaurants . and confounding lanes .

52
Double Six Beach BeACH
Kuta & Legian (map p54) The beach becomes less crowded
Loud and frenetic are two of the adjectives as you go north from Legian until very pop-
commonly used to describe Kuta and Legian, ular Double Six Beach, which is alive with
the centre of mass tourism in Bali. Today’s pick-up games of football and volleyball all
wall-to-wall cacophony has become notori- day long. It’s a good place to meet partying
ous worldwide through often overhyped me- locals. Watch out for water pollution after
dia reports of tourists behaving badly. heavy rains.
Although this is often the first place Pantai Patra Jasa BeACH
many visitors hit in Bali, the region is not (map p58) This hidden gem of sand is reached
for everyone. Kuta has ugly narrow lanes by a tiny access road along the fence on the
jammed with cheap cafes, surf shops, inces- north side of the airport. There’s shade, a
sant motorbikes and an uncountable num- couple of tiny warungs (food stalls), views of
ber of T-shirt vendors and bleating offers of planes landing and rarely ever a crowd. You
‘massage’. But flash new shopping malls and can head north on the lovely beach walk to
Kuta & SeminyaK
chain hotels show that Kuta’s lure will only Kuta Beach.
grow.
Legian appeals to a slightly older crowd Tuban Beach BeACH
(some say it’s where fans of Kuta go after (map p58) Tuban’s beach is a mixed bag.
Kuta & SeminyaK Be ACHeS
they’re married). It’s equally commercial There are wide and mellow stretches of sand
and has a long row of family-friendly hotels to the south but near the Discovery Mall it
close to the beach. Tuban differs little in feel disappears entirely.
Kuta & SeminyaK KutA & LegiAn
from Kuta and Legian, but has a higher per-
centage of visitors on package holidays. 1 Sights
Kuta and Legian’s main appeal is, of course,
r Beaches the beaches. Otherwise, you can immerse
It’s the beach that put Kuta on the map. yourself in local life without even getting
The strand of sand stretching for more than wet. Wanderers, browsers and gawkers will
12km from Tuban north to Kuta, Legian and find much to fascinate, delight and irritate
beyond to Seminyak and Echo Beach is al- amid the streets, alleys and constant hub-
ways a scene of surfing, massaging, games, bub.
chilling, imbibing and more. Sunsets are a Bali Sea Turtle Society
HAtCHeRy
time of gathering for just about everyone in (map p54; www .baliseaturtle .org; Kuta Beach;
south Bali. When conditions are right, you hsite 24hr, 4 .30pm Apr-Oct) One of the more
can enjoy an iridescent magenta spectacle responsible turtle hatcheries in Bali, re-
better than fireworks.
releasing turtle hatchlings into the ocean
oKuta Beach BeACH from Kuta Beach, around 4.30pm from
(map p55) Tourism in Bali began here and is April to October. The release is organised by
there any question why? Low-key hawkers the Bali Sea Turtle Society, a conservation
will sell you soft drinks and beer, snacks and group working to protect olive ridley turtles.
other treats, and you can rent surfboards, Join the queue to collect your baby turtle in
lounge chairs and umbrellas (negotiable at a small plastic water bath; pay a small do-
10,000Rp to 20,000Rp), or just crash on the nation; and join the group to release them.
sand. The sunsets are legendary. Signs offer excellent background info.
oLegian Beach BeACH Museum Kain muSeum
(map p55) An extension north from Kuta (map p54; %0361-846 5568; www .museum-
Beach, Legian Beach is quieter thanks to the kain .org; Jl Pantai Kuta, Beachwalk; adult/child
lack of a raucous road next to the sand and 100,000/50,000Rp; h10am-8pm tue-Sun) An un-
fewer people. expected haven of high culture in the heart of
Kuta Beach, this air-con complex in the upper
Kuta Reef Beach BeACH levels of the Beachwalk Mall celebrates indig-
(map p58; Pantai Segara) Some still call this enous textiles. Exhibits include beautiful dis-
beach ‘Pantai Jerman’, a legacy of some plays of batik fabrics. You’ll learn how batik
long-forgotten early surfing tourist. It’s nice- is made and at times be offered a chance to
ly low-key, with beer vendors and surfboard make your own. Interactive screens decon-
rentals. struct the patterns and designs.

53
Memorial Wall mOnument day) and boogie boards. They also repair
(map p54; Jl Legian) This memorial wall reflects dings and sell new and used boards. Some
the international scope of the 2002 bomb- can arrange transport to nearby surfing
ings, and people from many countries pay spots. Used boards in good shape average
their respects. Listing the names of the 202 US$200.
known victims, including 88 Australians and
35 Indonesians, it is starting to look quite Pro Surf School SuRFing
weathered. Across the street, a parking lot is (map p54; %0361-751200; www .prosurfschool .com;
all that is left of the destroyed Sari Club. Jl Pantai Kuta; lessons per day from 675,000Rp)
Right along Kuta Beach, this well-regarded
Vihara Dharmayana Temple BuDDHiSt temPLe school has been getting beginners standing
(map p54; Chinese temple; Jl Blambangan; h8am- for years. It offers all levels of lessons, includ- Kuta & SeminyaK
8pm) Dating back nearly 200 years, this ing semi-private ones, plus gear and board
Buddhist temple is a colourful place of calm, rental. There’s a pool and cool cafe. Kuta & SeminyaK ACtivitieS
slightly off the beaten path. Incense burns in Kuta & SeminyaK KutA & LegiAn
the serene courtyard. Rip Curl School of Surf SuRFing
(map p54; %0361-735858; www .ripcurlschoolof
Site of Sari Club HiStORiC Site surf .com; Jl Arjuna; lessons from 700,000Rp) Usu-
(map p54) Across the street from the Bali Me- ally universities sell shirts with their logos;
morial Wall is where the Sari Club stood be- here it’s the other way round: the beachwear
fore it was destroyed in the 2002 bombings. company sponsors a school. Lessons at all
It’s now a parking lot; plans to turn it into levels are given across the south; there are
a memorial park have circulated for years. special courses for kids. It has a location for
kitesurfing, windsurfing and stand-up pad-
2 Activities dle boarding (SUP) in Sanur.
From Kuta you can easily go surfing, sailing,
diving or rafting anywhere in the southern Massages & Spas
part of Bali and still be back for the start of Jamu Traditional Spa SPA
happy hour at sunset. (map p54; %0361-752520, 165; www .jamutradition
alspa .com; Jl Pantai Kuta, Alam Kul Kul; 1hr mas-
Surfing sage from 350,000Rp; h9am-7pm) In serene
The beach break called Halfway Kuta (map surrounds at a resort hotel you can enjoy
p54), offshore near the Hotel Istana Rama, massage in rooms that open on to a pretty
is popular with novices. More challenging garden courtyard. If you’ve ever wanted to
breaks can be found on the shifting sand- be part of a fruit cocktail, here’s your chance
bars off Legian, around the end of Jl Padma, – treatments involve tropical nuts, coconuts,
and at Kuta Reef, 1km out to sea off Kuta papayas and more, often in fragrant baths.
Reef Beach.
Surf culture is huge in Kuta. Shops large Garbugar mASSAge
and small sell mega-brand surf gear and (map p54; %0361-769121; istana Kuta galleria, Blok
boards. Stalls on the side streets hire out Og 09; massage from 100,000Rp; h10am-8pm)
surfboards (for a negotiable 30,000Rp per Blind masseurs here are experts in sensing


KUTA FOR KIDS
Besides cavorting on the beach all day, there are other activities in Kuta, Legian and
Tuban that will delight kids, including special youth-oriented surf lessons at all the major
surf shops.
Waterbom Park (map p58; %0361-755676; www .waterbom-bali .com; Jl Kartika Plaza; adult/
child 520,000/370,000Rp; h9am-6pm) This watery amusement park covers 3.5 hectares
of landscaped tropical gardens. It has assorted water slides, swimming pools and play
areas, a supervised park for children under five years old, and a ‘lazy river’ ride. Other
indulgences include the ‘pleasure pool’, a food court and bar, and a spa.
Cheeky Monkeys (map p54; %0361-846 5610; www .cheekymonkeysbali .com; Jl Pantai Kuta,
Beachwalk, level 3; half-day from 185,000Rp) Offers drop-in childcare for young children.
There’s a huge range of activities on offer; it’s located in the back of the mall.

54
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8
500 m
0.25 miles
G G



# 41 ú


0 0 F F
e #
Kuta & SeminyaK
Jl Nakula Jl Sunset Jl Patih Jelantik Ø #



Kuta & SeminyaK ACtivitieS
# 69 þ
E E
Kuta & SeminyaK KutA & LegiAn
Jl Dewi # Sri ú
58 È
# ú 54
Jl Pura Puseh

D D
Sungai Mati È È
È
Jl Nakula # û 65 È

See Seminyak & Kerobokan Map (p76) 76 þ # þ # 74 Jl Pura Bagus Taruna (Jl Werkudara) 36 Jl Padma Utara JI Padma (JI Yudistra) ÿ # 17 ì # Central Kuta Money Exchange # Ø

C Kimia Farma # # 52 î ú Jl Raya Seminyak 25 ÿ # # ÿ # 57 Jl Sahadewa Jl Melasti C
û
#
61
ú
444444 444444 # 63 55 33 444444 59 # 15 ú ç # Jl Pantai Arjuna 444444 # Gate 444444 444444 444444 444444 444444 444444 444444
444444
#
13
Ø
B 73 56 # (Jl DoubleSix) þ # Jl Arjuna ú ú # # ÿ # 24 ÿ # ÿ 26 49 # ú Gang Legian Tewogah # 34 ÿ Ù Ù # # 3 Legian Beach # Gate # Gate # Gate B

ÿ
#
35
Kuta & Legian A # 20 ÿ 1 û # 4 Ù 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 A

55
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8
68 þ #
# BIMC
G î G
# 70 þ
Jl Sunset
Kura- # Kura Bus › See Tuban Map (p58)



F JI Ngurah Rai Bypass F Kuta & SeminyaK

# › Trans- Sarbagita Sungai Mati Jl Imam Bonjol # Central Kuta Money Exchange Kuta & SeminyaK KutA & LegiAn
Jl Patih Jelantik È È Kimia # Farma î Jl Blambangan
10
#
Ø
ì
Kuta & SeminyaK ACtivitieS
E Jl Majapahit ú # 46 # Ú # 8 ñ ò # JI Selamet E
È Hanafi JI Raya Kuta È
42 # ú # # ÿ 28
# 62 û # 75 þ Jl Buni Sari
ú # # 5 á 66 # û û # # › ú # 47
27 # ÿ 64 û # 60 # 32 ÿ # # 50 È ÿ ú È È
# 29 ú # 72 # þ æ # 7 Ga ng Bedugul Perama 21 # ÿ 31
ÿ
Jl Legian 45
D Jl Pantai Kuta Jl Tengal Wangi Jl Bakung Sari (Jl Singasari) D
ú È # # 18 ÿ # þ 71 Poppies Gang I # 22
48 Jl Lebak Bene (Jl Benesari) Poppies Gang II (Jl Batu Bolong) # 30 ÿ # 19 ÿ ÿ È
#
ú
53
#
23
ÿ
# ú ÿ 38 ú # 51 # 43 ú Gang Sorga 44 # ú Kuta Sq
444 # 14 # 37 ÿ 444 # 444 444 444 444 2 Kuta Beach 444 444 444 Bali Sea Turtle 444 444 444 444
#
Ø
9
#
â
6
C 40 Jl Benesari # ÿ 16 (Jl Pantai Banjar Pande Mas) È # 1 # æ æ Society # 39 ú Beach Walkway C
67
û
#
#
ñ
Ù
Ù
#
#
# 12 Ø ç È
#
B # 11 ç B
Teluk Kuta
Kuta & Legian A 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 A

56
Kuta & Legian

æ Top Sights ú Eating
1 Bali Sea Turtle Society...........................C8 39 Ajeg Warung.............................................C8
2 Kuta Beach .............................................. C7 40 Balcony.....................................................C5
3 Legian Beach........................................... B3 41 Balé Udang...............................................F2
42 Bemo Corner Coffee Shop.....................E7

æ Sights 43 Fat Chow...................................................C6
4 Double Six Beach.....................................A1 44 Jamie's Italian..........................................C7
5 Memorial Wall..........................................D6 45 Kopi Pot ....................................................D6
6 Museum Kain...........................................C6 46 Kuta Market .............................................E8
7 Site of Sari Club ...................................... D6 47 Made's Warung........................................D7
8 Vihara Dharmayana Temple..................E8 48 Mama's German Restaurant .................D5
49 Mozzarella................................................B2

Ø Activities, Courses & Tours Plantation Grill ...............................(see 20)
9 Cheeky Monkeys..................................... C6 50 Poppies Restaurant ................................D7
10 Garbugar...................................................F5 51 Rainbow Cafe...........................................C6
Kuta & SeminyaK
11 Halfway Kuta ........................................... B7 52 Saleko ....................................................... C1
12 Jamu Traditional Spa............................. C5 53 Stakz Bar & Grill ......................................D6
13 Mandara Spa........................................... B3 Sushi Tei...........................................(see 6)
14 Pro Surf School....................................... C5 54 Take...........................................................D4
Kuta & SeminyaK tOuRS
15 Rip Curl School of Surf............................A1 55 Warung Asia............................................. B1
56 Warung Murah......................................... B1

ÿ Sleeping 57 Warung Yogya..........................................C3
Kuta & SeminyaK KutA & LegiAn
16 Bali Bungalo.............................................C6 58 Wooyoo.....................................................E3
17 Bali Mandira Beach Resort.................... B4 59 Zanzibar.................................................... A1
18 Bendesa ...................................................D6
19 Berlian Inn................................................ D7 û Drinking & Nightlife
20 Double-Six ................................................A1 60 Apache Reggae Bar.................................D7
21 Funky Monkey Hostel............................. D7 61 Bali Beach Shack.....................................C4
22 Guess House Hostel...............................D8 62 Bounty ......................................................E7
23 Hotel Ayu Lili Garden.............................. D5 63 Cocoon...................................................... A1
24 Hotel Kumala Pantai............................... B2 Double-Six Rooftop.......................(see 20)
25 Island........................................................ C2 64 Engine Room............................................D6
26 Jayakarta Hotel....................................... B2 65 Jenja.......................................................... C1
27 Kayun Hostel Downtown .......................D6 66 Sky Garden Lounge.................................D6
28 Kuta Bed & Breakfast..............................E8 67 Velvet ........................................................C6
29 Love Fashion Hotel................................. D5
30 Mimpi Bungalows ................................... D7 þ Shopping
31 Poppies Bali............................................. D7 Beachwalk........................................ (see 6)
32 Puri Agung Homestay............................ D7 68 Carrefour..................................................G5
33 Puri Damai ................................................B1 69 Luke Studer..............................................E3
34 Sari Beach Hotel..................................... B3 70 Mal Bali Galeria........................................G8
35 Seaside Villas .......................................... B2 71 Naruki Surf Shop.....................................D6
36 Sri Beach Inn ........................................... C3 72 Rip Curl .....................................................D6
37 Stones ...................................................... C5 73 Sriwijaya Batik ......................................... B1
38 Un's Hotel ................................................ C5 74 Summer Batik.......................................... B1
75 Surfer Girl.................................................E7

76 UpCycle .................................................... C1
exactly where your kinks are located. It’s T Tours
no-frills all the way, but hard to beat for a A vast range of tours all around Bali, from
deeply relaxing experience.
half-day to multiday excursions, can be
Mandara Spa SPA booked through your hotel or the plethora
(map p54; %0361-752111; www .mandaraspa .com; of stands plastered with brochures.
Jl Padma 1, Padma Resort Bali; 50min massage
795,000Rp; h10am-8pm) This top-end outlet 4 Sleeping
of the international spa chain is decorated Kuta, Legian and Tuban have hundreds of
with water features and impressive stone places to stay. Tuban and Legian have mostly
sculptural reliefs. midrange and top-end hotels – the best plac-

57
es for budget accommodation are Kuta and hotels along Jl Legian are of the type that
southern Legian. Almost every hotel has air- assume men booking a single actually aspire
con and a pool. Dozens of generic midrange to a double.
chain hotels are appearing throughout the
area. Many are very inconveniently located. ON THE BEACH
Any place west of Jl Legian won’t be more Note that hotels on Jl Pantai Kuta are sep-
than a 10-minute walk to the beach. arated from the beach by a busy main road
south of Jl Melasti.

4 Tuban Stones ReSORt $$$
There is a string of large hotels along the (map p54; %0361-300 5888; www .stoneshotelbali .
sometimes-nonexistent Tuban Beach. These com; Jl Pantai Kuta; r incl breakfast from uS$110; Kuta & SeminyaK
places are popular with groups; many have aWs) Looming across the road from Kuta
extensive activities geared to children. Beach, this vast resort boasts a huge pool, a Kuta & SeminyaK SLeePing
vertical garden and 308 rooms in five-storey
Patra Jasa Bali Resort & Villas ReSORt $$$ blocks. The design is hip and contemporary, Kuta & SeminyaK KutA & LegiAn
(map p58; %0361-935 1161; www .thepatrabali .com; Jl and high-tech features abound. It’s one of
ir H Juanda; r incl breakfast 1,300,000-1,800,000Rp; the growing number of megahotels along
aWs) At the far-south end of Tuban near this strip and affiliated with Marriott. Some
Kuta Reef Beach, this low-key resort is very rooms have bathtubs on the balcony.
quiet, yet close to the action thanks to the
beach walk. The spacious grounds have two CENTRAL KUTA
pools and sprawling gardens. The 228 rooms Good streets to shop for budget accommo-
have a standard charm; the villas have nice dation include Gang Sorga, Gang Bedugul
sea views from their terraces. and Jl Lebak Bene.
oHotel Ayu Lili Garden HOteL $

4 Kuta (map p54; %0361-750557; ayuliligardenhotel@
Wandering the gang (alleys) looking for a yahoo .com; off Jl Lebak Bene; r with fan/air-con
cheap room is a rite of passage for many. from 195,000/250,000Rp; aWs) In a rela-
Small and family-run options can still be tively quiet area near the beach, this vintage
found even as chains crowd in. Some of the family-run hotel has 22 bungalow-style


KUTA: WHERE BALI TOURISM BEGAN
Mads Lange, a Danish copra trader and 19th-century adventurer, set up a successful
trading enterprise near modern-day Kuta in 1839. He mediated profitably between local
rajahs (lords or princes) and the Dutch, who were encroaching from the north. His busi-
ness soured in the 1850s and he died suddenly, just as he was about to return to Den-
mark. It’s thought that his death may have been the result of poisoning by locals jealous
of his wealth. His restored tomb (map p58; Jl tuan Langa) is at the site where he used to
live in a quiet, tree-shaded area by the river. Lange bred Dalmatians and today locals
assume that any dog with a hint of black and white has some of this blood.
Beach tourism got its start in Bali when Bob and Louise Koke – a globetrotting couple
from the US – opened a small guesthouse on virtually deserted Kuta Beach in the 1930s.
The guests, mostly from Europe and the US, were housed in thatched bungalows built in
an idealised Balinese style. In a prescient move, Bob taught the locals to surf, something
he’d learned in Hawaii.
Kuta really began to change in the late 1960s when it became a stop on the hippie trail
between Australia and Europe. By the early 1970s it had relaxed losmen (small Balinese
hotels) in pretty gardens, friendly places to eat, vendors peddling magic mushrooms
and a delightfully laid-back atmosphere. Enterprising Balinese seized the opportunity to
profit from the tourists and surfers, often in partnership with foreigners seeking a pretext
to stay longer.
Legian, the village to the north, sprang up as an alternative to Kuta in the mid-1970s.
At first it was a totally separate development, but these days you can’t tell where one
ends and the other begins.

58
Tuban # e 0 0 0.25 m
500 m
A B C D
# # ú9
ò
See Kuta & Legian Map (p54) 7 # ú 12 # ú JI
444 # û 13 Raya 15 Sungai Mati
Ø
444 Kuta # æ
1 14 # 5 # þ 1
# þ
17
# þ
2
444 Plaza Sartika) Bemo Stop # JI
# 4
›
Ù
Teluk
444 Jl Kartika (Jl Dewi Kimia Farma # Ngurah Rai Bypass
î
Kuta
Pelni
2 10 Jl Samudra TUBAN Ticket Office # 2
# ú
444
16
# þ
Kuta Reef Ù # ú
Kuta & SeminyaK
#
(600m) 1 Jl Segara 8
444 Jl Dewi Sartika Jl Kediri JI Raya
D
Jl Ir H Juanda
Kuta & SeminyaK SLeePing
# ú 11
444 Tuban
ÿ
# 6
3 3 Ù 3
Kuta & SeminyaK KutA & LegiAn
#
Jl Airport Ngurah Rai
444 BA C D
444
Tuban
æ Sights 9 Kuta Night Market................................... D1
1 Kuta Reef Beach ..................................... A2 10 Pantai........................................................B2
2 Mads Lange Tomb...................................D1 11 Pisgor........................................................B3
3 Pantai Patra Jasa.................................... A3 12 Warung Nikmat........................................ C1
4 Tuban Beach ........................................... B2
û Drinking & Nightlife

Ø Activities, Courses & Tours 13 DeeJay Cafe............................................. C1
5 Waterbom Park........................................C1
þ Shopping

ÿ Sleeping 14 Discovery Mall.......................................... B1
6 Patra Jasa Bali Resort & Villas.............. A3 15 Joger ......................................................... C1
16 Lippo Mall Kuta........................................B2

ú Eating 17 Periplus Bookshop.................................. B1
7 B Couple Bar 'n' Grill................................B1 Sogo .................................................(see 17)
8 Kafe Batan Waru..................................... B2
rooms. Standards are high and for more Mimpi Bungalows HOteL $
dosh you can add amenities such as a fridge. (map p54; %0361-751848; mimpibungalowkuta@
gmail .com; gang Sorga; r 200,000-500,000Rp;
oKuta Bed & Breakfast gueStHOuSe $ aWs) The cheapest of the 12 bunga-
(map p54; KBB; %0818 568 364, 0821 4538 9646; low-style rooms here are the best value (and
kutabnb@gmail .com; Jl Pantai Kuta 1e; r from are fan only). Private gardens boast orchids
250,000Rp; aW) There are nine comforta- and shade, and the pool is a good size.
ble rooms in this excellent guesthouse right
across from Bemo Corner – it has all the Funky Monkey Hostel HOSteL $
basics. It’s a 10-minute walk from the beach (map p54; %0812 4636 4386; www .funkymonkey
and a 10-minute ride from the airport. It bali .com; Poppies Lane 1; dm 60,000-120,000Rp,
has a wonderful rooftop with views over the r 300,000Rp; aWs) In a tourist-thronged
Kuta skyline; nightlife is close too. location in the back alleys of Kuta, close to

59
Poppies Restaurant (p62), this homely and pool-facing balconies. The 30 spacious
intimate Dutch-run hostel is a top place to rooms in a pair of blocks (the southern one
meet fellow travellers. There’s a small pool, is quieter) feature antiques and comfy cane
free pancakes and cheap beer. The cheapest loungers. It’s close to the beach.
dorms are outdoor bunks.
Love Fashion Hotel HOteL $$
Guess House Hostel HOSteL $ (map p54; %0361-849 6688; www .lovefhotel .com;
(map p54; %0361-475 3199; www .guesshousehos Jl Legian 121; r incl breakfast uS$45-90; aWs)
tel .com; Jl tegal Wangi; dm from 80,000Rp; hre- This gaudy hotel in the heart of the Kuta
ception 24hr; aiW) Right in the heart of strip is an offshoot of the Fashion TV chan-
Kuta, this modern hostel has two very large nel, featuring a design that’s suitably over
dorm rooms. There’s a kitchen, shared bath- the top. Strut your stuff down the catwalk in Kuta & SeminyaK
rooms, luggage storage and more. the lobby, where mirrors and lighting effects
are designed to make you feel like a mod- Kuta & SeminyaK SLeePing
Bendesa HOteL $ el. There’s a rooftop Jacuzzi and a bar with
(map p54; %0361-754366; www .bendesaaccom nightly parties. Kuta & SeminyaK KutA & LegiAn
modation .com; off Poppies gang ii; r uS$15-
40; aWs) The 42 rooms here are in a Bali Bungalo HOteL $$
three-storey block overlooking a pleas- (map p54; %0361-755109; www .bali-bungalo .
ant-enough pool area. The location man- com; off Jl Pantai Kuta; r 270,000-600,000Rp;
ages to be quiet amid the greater hubbub. aWs) Large rooms close to the beach yet
The cheapest rooms have cold water (some away from irritations are a big part of the
with bathtubs) and fan. There’s wi-fi in some appeal of this older 40-room hotel. It’s well
rooms near the lobby. maintained and there are statues of pran-
cing horses to inspire horseplay in the pool.
Kayun Hostel Downtown HOSteL $ Rooms are in two-storey buildings and have
(map p54; %0361-758442; www .kayun-downtown . patios/porches; not all have wi-fi.
com; Jl Legian; dm incl breakfast from 120,000Rp;
aWs) In the heart of Kuta, close to all Poppies Bali HOteL $$$
the nightlife, this hostel is the place to be if (map p54; %0361-751059; www .poppiesbali .
you’re here to party. Set in an elegant coloni- com; Poppies gang i; r 1,700,000-2,000,000Rp;
al building, it has a sense of style and a small aiWs) This Kuta institution has a lush,
plunge pool. Dorm rooms have between four green setting for its 20 thatch-roofed cottag-
and 20 beds, with curtains for privacy. es with outdoor sunken baths. Bed choices
include kings and twins. The pool is sur-
Puri Agung Homestay gueStHOuSe $ rounded by stone sculptures and water
(map p54; %0361-750054; off gang Bedugul; r with fountains in a garden that almost makes you
fan/air-con from 120,000/200,000Rp; a) Hung- forget you are in the heart of Kuta.
over travellers will appreciate the 12 dark,
cold-water-only rooms at this attractive little

place that features a tiny grotto-like garden. 4 Legian
Nonvampires can find more light on the top
floor. Run by a charming family; a novelty as ON THE BEACH
chains take over Kuta. Part of the beach road north of Jl Melasti
is protected by gates that exclude almost all
Berlian Inn HOteL $ vehicle traffic. Hotels here have what is in
(map p54; %0361-751501; off Poppies gang i; s/d effect a quiet, paved beachfront promenade.
from 135,000/210,000Rp; a) A stylish cut
above other budget places, the 27 rooms in Sari Beach Hotel HOteL $$
the two-storey buildings here are pleasingly (map p54; %0361-751635; www .thesaribeach .
quiet, with ikat bedspreads and an unusu- com; off Jl Padma utara; r incl breakfast uS$65-
al open-air bathroom design. Pricier rooms 80; aWs) Follow your ears down a long
have air-con and hot water. gang to the roar of the surf at this good-
value beachside hotel that defines mellow.
oUn’s Hotel HOteL $$ It feels like a time warp from the 1980s but
(map p54; %0361-757409; www .unshotel .com; Jl is perfect for a no-frills beach holiday. The
Benesari; r with fan/air-con 460,000-500,000Rp; 21 rooms have patios and the best have big
aiWs) A hidden entrance sets the tone soaking tubs. Grassy grounds boast many
for the secluded feel of Un’s, a two-storey little statues and water features.
place with bougainvillea spilling over the

60
Bali Mandira Beach Resort HOteL $$$ Hotel Kumala Pantai HOteL $$
(map p54; %0361-751381; www .balimandira .com; (map p54; %0361-755500; www .kumalapantai .
Jl Padma 2; r uS$130-200; aWs) Gardens com; Jl Werkudara; r incl breakfast 1,100,000-
filled with bird-of-paradise flowers set the 1,800,000Rp; aiWs) The 173 rooms are
tone at this 191-room, full-service resort large, with marble bathrooms featuring
with four-storey blocks and individual gar- separate shower and tub. The three-storey
den units. Cottages have updated interiors, blocks are set in lush grounds across from
and the bathrooms are partly open-air. A popular Double Six Beach. Many rooms have
dramatic pool at the peak of a stone ziggurat fridges and microwaves; ask for one.
(which houses a spa) offers sweeping ocean
views, as does the cafe. Jayakarta Hotel ReSORt $$
(map p54; %0361-751433; www .jayakartahotels
Seaside Villas viLLA $$$ resorts .com; Jl Pura Bagus taruna; r incl breakfast
(map p54; %0361-737138; www .seasidebali .com; Jl 1,100,000-2,400,000Rp; aiWs) The Jayakar-
Pantai Arjuna 18; uS$130-450; aWs) Tucked ta fronts a long and shady stretch of beach.
into a popular stretch of sand just south The palm-shaded grounds, several pools
Kuta & SeminyaK
of ever-so-happening Double Six Beach and various restaurants make it a favourite
are these 28 rooms and villas set in lush with groups and families. Hair-braiders by
gardens. Most of the rooms are in a sleek, the pool give kids that holiday look. The 331
Kuta & SeminyaK KutA &
curving four-storey block; the overall atmos- rooms are large and in two- and three-storey
phere is surprisingly intimate given the loca- blocks. Wi-fi is not in every room.
tion. The beach is very close. Rooms come in
Kuta & SeminyaK e Ating LegiAn
many sizes, some with kitchens. Double-Six ReSORt $$$
(map p54; %0361-730466; www .double-six .
CENTRAL LEGIAN com; Double Six Beach 66; r incl breakfast from
Sri Beach Inn gueStHOuSe $ 3,200,000Rp; aWs) A colossus five-star re-
(map p54; %0361-755897; gang Legian tewngah; r sort, Double-Six takes a leaf out of the Vegas
with fan/air-con from 200,000/350,000Rp; aW) book of extravagance. Fronted by a luxurious
Follow a series of paths into the heart of old 120m pool, the 146 spacious rooms all over-
Legian; when you hear the rustle of palms look the beach, and have 24-hour butlers
overhead, you’re close to this guesthouse in and TVs in the bathrooms. Some have balco-
a garden with five rooms. More money gets ny hot tubs. It has an enormous rooftop bar
you hot water, air-con and a fridge. It offers (p73), plus several restaurants including the
cheap monthly rates. noted Plantation Grill (p64).
Island gueStHOuSe $$ 5 Eating
(map p54; %0361-762722; www .theislandhotel There’s a profusion of places to eat here.
bali .com; gang Abdi; dm/r incl breakfast from Cheap tourist cafes with Indonesian stand-
220,000/500,000Rp; aiWs) One of Bali’s ards, sandwiches and pizza are ubiquitous.
few flashpacker options, Island is a real find Find laid-back travellers’ cafes by wan-
– literally. Hidden in the attractive maze of dering the gang and looking for crowds. For
tiny lanes west of Jl Legian, this stylish place quick snacks and 4am beers, 24-hour Circle
with a sparkling pool lies at the confluence K stores are everywhere.
of Gang 19, 21 and Abdi. It has a deluxe Beware of big-box restaurants on Jl Sun-
dorm room with eight beds. set. Heavily promoted, they suffer from traf-
fic noise and are aimed squarely at tourists
DOUBLE SIX BEACH
oPuri Damai gueStHOuSe $$ who follow the bus.
(map p54; %0361-730665; www .puridamai .com;

Jl Werkudara; apt 1-/2-bedroom uS$70/140; 5 Tuban
aWs) An elegant choice tucked away near Tuban has oodles of chains and fast-food
Double Six Beach, this exquisite little hotel joints. The beachfront hotels all have res-
is run by Made, the doyen of the Made’s taurants or cafes, which are often good for
Warung empire. The 12 units are sizeable nonguests to enjoy a snack or a sunset drink.
apartments with full kitchens, dining and The south end of Jl Raya Kuta near
living areas, terraces and balconies. The the airport road is lined with good local
compact compound is lush and the furni- warungs and cafes. Browse around and pick
ture is relaxed tropical. a favourite.

61
oPisgor inDOneSiAn $ There’s also good coffee, baked goods and
(map p58; Jl Dewi Sartika; treats from 2000Rp; kid-friendly items. It has a high-profile spot
h10am-10pm) All sorts of goodness emerg- in front of the glam Lippo Mall (p74).
es from the ever-bubbling deep-fryers at B Couple Bar ‘n’ Grill
SeAFOOD $$
this narrow storefront near the airport. The (map p58; %0361-761414; Jl Kartika Plaza; meals
pisang goreng (banana fritters) are not to 60,000-200,000Rp; h11am-midnight) A vibrant
be missed and you can enjoy more esoteric mix of upscale local and international tour-
fare such as ote-ote (vegetable cakes). Get a ists tuck into Jimbaran-style grilled seafood
mixed bag and munch away with raw chil- at this slick operation. Pool tables, TV sports
lies for accent.
and live music add to the din while flames
Warung Nikmat inDOneSiAn $ flare in the open kitchens. Kuta & SeminyaK
(map p58; %0361-764678; Jl Banjar Sari; meals Kuta & SeminyaK KutA &
15,000-30,000Rp; h8am-9pm) This long- 5 Kuta

running Javanese favourite is known for Kuta & SeminyaK e Ating LegiAn
its array of authentic Indonesian dishes, Beach vendors are pretty much limited to
including beef rendang, perkedel (fritters), drinks. Otherwise you’ll find mostly surfer
prawn cakes, sop buntut (oxtail soup) and fare (pizzas, burgers, Indo classics) at myri-
various curries and vegetable dishes. Get ad spots along the narrow streets.
there before 2pm for the best selection. CENTRAL KUTA
Pantai SeAFOOD $$ Ajeg Warung BALineSe $
(map p58; %0361-753196; Jl Wana Segara; meals (map p54; %0822 3777 6766; Kuta Beach; mains
50,000-150,000Rp; h8am-11pm; W) It’s loca- from 20,000Rp; h8am-10pm) This simple stall
tion, location, location at this beachside bar with shady tables is right on Kuta Beach.
and grill. The food is stock tourist (seafood, It dishes up some of the freshest local fare
Indo classics, pasta etc) but the setting over- you’ll find in a shady location near the sand,
looking the ocean is idyllic. Each year it gets with views of the surf. Enter the beach
a bit more stylish and upscale but still avoids where Jl Pantai Kuta turns north and walk
pretence. It’s on the beachfront walk, well south 100m along the beach path.
behind the Lippo Mall Kuta (p74).
Bemo Corner Coffee Shop CAFe $
Kafe Batan Waru inDOneSiAn $$ (map p54; %0361-755305; www .facebook .com/
(map p58; %0361-897 8074; www .baligoodfood . bemocappucino; Jl Pantai Kuta 10A; mains from
com; Jl Kartika Plaza, Lippo mall Kuta; meals 40,000Rp; h8am-9pm) An attractive oasis
50,000-150,000Rp; h11am-11pm) The Tuban just off the madness of Jl Legian, this sweet
branch of the noted Ubud restaurant is a little open-fronted cafe serves excellent cof-
slicked-up version of a warung, albeit with fee drinks, smoothies and casual fare such as
excellent and creative Asian and local fare. sandwiches and huge trad breakfasts with
eggs, bacon, sausage etc.

KUTA COWBOYS UNSADDLED
You see them all around Bali’s southern beaches: young men who are buff, tattooed,
long-haired and gregariously courtly. Long known as ‘Kuta cowboys’, they turn the Asian
cliché of a younger local woman with an older Western man on its ear. For decades wom-
en from Japan, Australia and other nations have found companionship on Bali’s beaches
that meets a need, be it romantic, adventurous or otherwise.
The dynamic between these foreign women and Balinese men is more complex than a
simple exchange of money for sexual services (which is illegal in Bali): although the Kuta
cowboys do not receive money directly for sex, their female companions tend to pay for
their meals, buy gifts, and may even pay other expenses such as rent.
This well-known Bali phenomenon is detailed in the entertaining documentary Cow-
boys in Paradise (stream it at www.cowboysinparadise.com). Director Amit Virmani
says he got the idea for the film after he talked to a Balinese boy who said he wanted
‘to sex-service Japanese girls’ when he grew up. The result looks at the lives of the Kuta
cowboys and explores the economics and emotional costs of having fleeting dalliances
with female tourists on a schedule.

62
Kuta Night Market inDOneSiAn $ POPPIES GANG II & AROUND
(map p58; Jl Blambangan; meals 15,000-25,000Rp; Rainbow Cafe inteRnAtiOnAL $
h6pm-midnight) This is an enclave of stalls (map p54; %0361-765730; Poppies gang ii; mains
and plastic chairs. It bustles with locals and from 40,000Rp) Join generations of Kuta den-
tourism workers chowing down on hot-off- izens quaffing the afternoon away. The vibe
the-wok treats, grilled goods and other fresh at this deeply shaded spot has changed little
foods. over the years, even as malls have sprouted
Kuta Market mARKet $ nearby. Many current customers are the off-
spring of backpackers who met at adjoining
(map p54; Jl Raya Kuta; h6am-4pm) Not big but tables.
its popularity ensures constant turnover.
Look for some of Bali’s unusual fruits here, Fat Chow ASiAn $$
such as the mangosteen. (map p54; %0361-753516; www .fatchowbali .com;
Poppies gang ii; mains from 60,000Rp; h9am-
oPoppies Restaurant inDOneSiAn $$ 11pm; W) A stylish, modern take on the tra-
(map p54; %0361-751059; www .poppiesbali .com; ditional open-fronted cafe, Fat Chow serves
Kuta & SeminyaK
Poppies gang i; mains 40,000-130,000Rp; h8am- Asian-accented fare at long picnic tables,
11pm; W) Opening its doors in 1973, Poppies small tables and lounges. The food is crea-
was one of the first restaurants to be estab- tive, with lots of options for sharing. Among
Kuta & SeminyaK KutA &
lished in Kuta (Poppies Gang I is even named the favourites: crunchy Asian salad, pork
after it). It’s popular for its elegant garden set- buns, Tokyo prawns and authentic pad Thai.
ting and a menu of upmarket Balinese, West-
ern and Thai cuisine. The rijstaffel (selection Sushi Tei SuSHi $$
Kuta & SeminyaK e Ating LegiAn

of dishes served with rice) and seafood is (map p54; %0361-849 6496; Jl Pantai Kuta, Beach-
popular. walk, fl 2; mains 40,000-10,000Rp; h11am-11pm)
Let the beach breezes waft across your
Made’s Warung inDOneSiAn $$ cheeks at this upscale sushi outlet with
(map p54; %0361-755297; www .madeswarung . views of the surf. The menu is long on sushi
com; Jl Pantai Kuta; mains from 40,000Rp; h8am- and quality is high. Watch for incredible-
11pm) Made’s was the original tourist warung value specials. There’s a good drinks list and
in Kuta and its Westernised Indonesian sunset happy hour.
menu has been much copied. Classic dishes
such as nasi campur (rice with a choice of Mama’s German Restaurant geRmAn $$
side dishes) are served in an open-fronted (map p54; %0361-761151; www .bali-mamas .com; Jl
setting that harks back to when Kuta’s tour- Legian; mains 50,000-150,000Rp; h24hr) Once
ist hot spots were lit by gas lantern. you get used to the local serving staff in
full German dirndl, you might almost think
Jamie’s Italian itALiAn $$$ you’re in a sweatier version of Munich. The
(map p54; %0361-762118; www .jamieoliver .com; menu is authentic German, with a vast array
Jl Pantai Kuta; hnoon-11pm) One of 40 world- of sausages, roasts and pork steaks from the
wide, this outlet of Jamie Oliver’s chain has restaurant’s own private butcher. (Nonwurst
the expected creative and seasonal menu. options include burgers, noodles, pizza etc.)
The dishes bust cliches and also, possibly, Quaff draught Bintang by the litre.
your wallet. Burgers are priced the same as
you’d get in NYC. There are tables inside and Balcony inteRnAtiOnAL $$
out. Service and presentation is polished. (map p54; %0361-757409; Jl Benesari 16; meals
50,000-150,000Rp; h6am-11pm) The Balcony
ALONG JL LEGIAN has a breezy tropical design and sits above
The eating choices along Jl Legian seem the din of Jl Benesari below. Get ready
endless; worthy choices are not. for the day with something from the long
breakfast menu. At night choose from pasta,
Kopi Pot CAFe $$ grilled meats and a few Indo classics. It’s all
(map p54; %0361-752614; www .kopipot .com; Jl nicely done and the perfect place for an im-
Legian; meals 60,000-150,000Rp; h6am-11pm; promptu date night.
W) Shaded by trees, Kopi Pot is a favourite,
popular for its coffees, milkshakes and myr- Stakz Bar & Grill AuStRALiAn $$
iad desserts. The multilevel, open-air din- (map p54; %0361-762129; www .stakzbarand-
ing area and bar sits back from noxious Jl grill .com; Jl Benesari; mains 40,000-140,000Rp;
Legian. h8am-midnight; W) From Vegemite on toast

63
and a flat white for brekkie, a potato-cake roll less and has a bit of mod style. It serves up
or meat pie in the afternoon, and an Aussie hearty portions of local food for prices that
burger with the lot (including beetroot, egg would almost tempt a local.
and pineapple) for dinner, Stakz is pure Aus-
sie fare. Patrons mob the bar from the morn- Saleko inDOneSiAn $
ing; the tattoo outpaces the clothing count. (map p54; Jl nakula 4; meals from 15,000Rp;
h8am-11pm) If you haven’t tried Masakan
EAST OF JL LEGIAN Padang food yet, you haven’t eaten proper
Wooyoo iCe CReAm $ Indonesian. Saleko is a great place to sample
(map p54; Jl Dewi Sri 18F; treats from 20,000Rp; this simple, delicious and cheap Sumatran
h10am-10pm) In a hot tropical place, what is street food. Spicy grilled chicken and fish
better than ice cream? The soft-serve treats dare you to ladle on the volcanic sambal – Kuta & SeminyaK
here come from a well-known Korean brand not de-spiced for timid tourist palates. All Kuta & SeminyaK KutA &
renowned for its rich, creamy swirls. Enjoy dishes are halal; there’s no alcohol.
in a cup, cone or on sweet ‘snail’ bread. Top- Balé Udang inDOneSiAn $$ Kuta & SeminyaK e Ating LegiAn
pings include sweet popcorn, chocolate bits (map p54; mang engking; %0361-894 7119; www .
and churros. The dining area has a woodsy, baleudang .com; Jl nakula 88; mains 35,000-
open style. 150,000Rp; h11am-10pm) Serving the food
oTake JAPAneSe $$ of Indonesia, this large restaurant is a
(map p54; %0361-759745; Jl Patih Jelantik; meals metaphor for the islands themselves, with
70,000-300,000Rp; h11am-midnight; W) Flee various thatched dining pavilions set amid
Bali for a relaxed version of Tokyo just by ponds and water features. The long menu
ducking under the traditional fabric shield focuses on fresh seafood. Service is snappy,
over the doorway at this ever-expanding but friendly.
restaurant. Hyper-fresh sushi, sashimi and
more are prepared under the keen eyes of ON THE BEACH
a team of chefs behind a long counter. The Mozzarella itALiAn, SeAFOOD $$
head chef is a stalwart at the Jimbaran fish (map p54; %0361-751654; www .mozzarella-resto .
market in the early hours. com; Jl Padma utara; mains 70,000-200,000Rp;
h7am-11pm; W) The best of the beachfront

5 Legian restaurants on Legian’s car-free strip, Moz-
zarella serves Italian fare that’s more au-
Along the streets of Legian, the ho-hum thentic than most. Fresh fish also features;
greatly outnumber the good, so browse be- service is rather polished and there are vari-
fore choosing. ous open-air areas for moonlit dining, plus a
more sheltered dining room. A great spot for
Warung Murah inDOneSiAn $ a quiet beachfront breakfast.
(map p54; %0361-732082; Jl Arjuna; meals
20,000-35,000Rp; h8am-11pm) Lunch goes
swimmingly at this authentic warung spe-
cialising in seafood. An array of grilled fish
awaits; if you prefer fowl over fin, the sate SUNSET DRINKS IN KUTA &
ayam is succulent and a bargain. Hugely LEGIAN
popular at lunch; try to arrive right before
noon. Don’t miss the sambal. Bali sunsets regularly explode in stun-
ning displays of reds, oranges and pur-
Warung Asia ASiAn $ ples. Sipping a cold one while watching
(map p54; %0361-742 0202; Jl Werkudara; mains this free show to the beat of the surf
from 35,000Rp; h11am-late; W) Staffed by is the top activity at 6pm. Genial local
waiters cheery even by Bali standards, this guys offer plastic chairs on the sand and
popular upstairs warung serves both Indo cheap, cold Bintang (20,000Rp).
classics and Thai fare. It gets boozy and rau- In Kuta, head to the car-free south
cous at night. end of the beach; in Legian, the best
Warung Yogya inDOneSiAn $ place is the strip of beach that starts
(map p54; %0361-750835; Jl Padma utara; mains north of Jl Padma and runs to the south
from 25,000Rp; h8am-10pm) Hidden in the end of Jl Pantai Arjuna.
heart of Legian, this simple warung is spot-

64
The Beat (www.beatmag.com) has night-
FOLLOW THE PARTY life listings.
Bali’s most infamous clubs cluster in

about a 300m radius of Sky Garden 6 Tuban
Lounge. The distinction between drink- DeeJay Cafe CLuB
ing and clubbing is blurry at best, with (map p58; %0361-758880; Jl Kartika Plaza 8X, Kuta
one morphing into another as the night Station Hotel; hmidnight-9am) The choice for
wears on (or the morning comes up). closing out the night (or starting the day).
Most bars are free to enter, and often House DJs play tribal, underground, pro-
have special drink promotions and gressive, trance, electro and more. Expect a
‘happy hours’ that run at various inter- hardcore crowd of ravers.
vals until after midnight. Savvy partiers
follow the specials from venue to venue

and enjoy a massively discounted night 6 Kuta
out. Look for cut-price-drinks coupon
Kuta & SeminyaK
fliers. Jl Legian is lined with interchangeable
Bali club ambience ranges from the bars with bar stools moulded to the butts
laid-back vibe of the surfer dives to of hard-drinking regulars. Expect come-ons
high-concept nightclubs with long drink from pimps, Viagra sellers and lots of cries
menus and hordes of prowling servers. of ‘we got bloody cold beer, mate!’
Prostitutes have proliferated at some oVelvet BAR
Kuta & SeminyaK KutA & LegiAn
Kuta clubs. (map p54; %0361-846 4928; www .vhbali .com; Jl
Pantai Kuta, Beachwalk, level 3; h11am-late) The
Zanzibar inteRnAtiOnAL $$ sunset views can’t be beat at this large ter-
(map p54; %0361-733529; www .zanzibarbali .com; race bar and cafe at the beach end of the
Kuta & SeminyaK DRinKing & nigHtLiFe
Jl Arjuna; mains 50,000-120,000Rp; h7am-11pm) Beachwalk mall. It morphs into a club after
This popular patio fronts a busy strip at 10pm Wednesday to Sunday. Grab a lounger
Double Six Beach. Sunset is prime time; the for two.
best views are from the tables on the 2nd- Sky Garden Lounge CLuB
floor terrace. Dishes include the nasi family (map p54; www .skygardenbali .com; Jl Legian 61;
and the burger bunch. If it’s crowded, the h24hr) This multilevel palace of flash flirts
many nearby competitors will do just fine.
with height restrictions from its rooftop
Plantation Grill mODeRn AuStRALiAn $$$ bar where all of Kuta twinkles around you.
(map p54; %0361-734300; www .plantationgrill Look for top DJs, a ground-level cafe and
bali .com; Jl Arjuna, Double-Six Hotel, 4th fl; mains paparazzi-wannabes. Possibly Kuta’s most
220,000-420,000Rp; h6pm-midnight) The iconic club, with hourly drink specials. Gets
gaudy sign outside leaves no doubt that backpackers, drunken teens, locals on the
this posh hotel restaurant springs from the make etc.
empire of Australian chef Robert Marchetti. Engine Room
Inside you’ll find a luxurious tropical setting CLuB
meant to evoke a 1920s fantasy. The menu (map p54; www .engineroombali .com; Jl Legian 89;
features big steaks and seafood with some h4pm-4am) Open to the street, this lurid
wildly priced specials such as lobster Ther- club features go-go dancers in cages as a
midor (855K!). Sling bar is an intimate re- come-on. As the evening progresses almost
treat for a fantasy cocktail. everyone dances and clothing gets shed. It’s
a wild party, with four venues for hedonism
6 Drinking & Nightlife and music that includes hip-hop, trap and
rap.
Sunset on the beach is popular, with a drink
at a sea-view cafe or beachside beer vendor. Bounty CLuB
Later, the legendary nightlife action heats (map p54; www .bountydiscotheque .com; Jl Legian;
up. Many ragers spend the early evening at h8pm-4am) Set on a faux sailing boat amid
a hipster joint in Seminyak before working a mini-mall of food and drink, the Bounty is
their way south to oblivion. a vast open-air disco that pumps all night
Stylish Seminyak clubs are popular with to hip-hop, techno, house and party tracks.
gay and straight crowds, but you’ll usually Foam parties, go-go dancers, drag shows
find a mixed crowd in Kuta and Legian. and cheap shots add to the rowdiness.

©Lonely
65








ANDY TROY / SHUTTERSTOCK ©






























Bali & Lombok’s


Best Beaches





Bali and Lombok are ringed by beaches, with sand
from white to black and surf from wild to tame. They ¨ Beaches
draw visitors in droves for sunbathing, yoga, running, ¨ Surfing
surfing, snorkelling, diving and good times aplenty. With ¨ Diving
so many to chose from, you’ll find one – or several – ¨ Marine Life
for any mood.


Above: Green Bowl Beach (p114), Bukit
Peninsula

66 ANDY TROY / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

67
Beaches

There are so many great beaches on
Bali and Lombok that it’s best to just
categorise them by region. Within each
of these five areas, you’ll find many
different patches of sand to enjoy.
Tuban to Echo Beach
Stretching some 12km from just north
of the airport all the way northwest to
ALEXANDER MAZURKEVICH / SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Pererenan Beach (p101), this is the beach
that made Bali famous. This multifaceted
playground has multiple personalities,
including surfer, hip, family, lonely, boozy
and more.
Bukit Beaches
The cliffs on the west coast of the Bukit
Peninsula (p104) often shelter little coves
of beautiful white sand, like that found
at Balangan, Bingin and Padang Padang.
It can be hard to reach these sands (and
their neighbours) but the rewards include
incredible views of the surf breaks,
nameless little bamboo warungs with
Bintang and sublimely beautiful water.
East Coast Beaches
1. A Kuta beach resort (p290), South Lombok 2. Bingin Beach
(p109), Bukit Peninsula 3. Dreamland, Bukit Peninsula (p104) A vast crescent of black sand that started
up the volcanic slopes of Gunung Agung
sweeps from north of Sanur to the east
side of the island (p193). Some beaches
here are empty, others have surfers, while
still more have temples and slices of local
Bali life.
South Lombok Beaches
The best Kuta Beach isn’t on Bali. Along
Lombok’s south coast (p289) running east
ARSIRYA / SHUTTERSTOCK ©
and west from that Kuta, you’ll discover
a dozen gorgeous bays ringed with white
sand and, often, not much else.
Gili Beaches
The Gili Islands (p298) – Trawangan,
Meno and Air – are each ringed by
beautiful sands. Walk the big loop,
sample at the beach buffets, try some
offshore snorkelling and just enjoy.

68
Surfing

Surfing is the top reason many come
to Bali and surf culture is part of the
island’s fabric. On Lombok, the lifestyle is
more low key but the breaks are not. NETFALLS REMY MUSSER / SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Kuta Beach
Kuta Beach (p52), Bali’s original surf
beach, is still a winner. You can’t help
but be drawn to this vast sweep of sand,
where surfers of all stripes are drawn to
the nonstop breaks right offshore. And
you can easily learn to surf here. Schools
abound and there are classes all day long.
Echo Beach
Echo Beach (p100) has wild waves
and plenty of spectators. It’s really an
extension of equally popular Batu Bolong.
Both have cafes that are always brimming
with a good mix of locals and visitors.
Ulu Watu
Ulu Watu (p112) is where you’ll find 1. Surfboards on Kuta Beach (p52), Bali 2. Suluban Beach (p113),
Bali’s most legendary surfing. It’s really Bali 3. Surfer, Bali
the climax of a string of breaks that
march down the west coast of the Bukit
Peninsula. The conditions are challenging
and you can spend days just sussing out
the scene.
Nusa Lembongan
Nusa Lembongan (p136) off Bali is an
excellent place for days of riding. Breaks –
accessed by boat – are offshore, past the
reefs. And there are cheap places to stay
with good views of the action, so you can
pick your moment to plunge in.
Tanjung Desert
Tanjung Desert (Desert Point; p277) on
Lombok wins plaudits, and that’s not just
from surfers congratulating themselves
for trekking out to this remote spot.
Fickle (its season is a short one: May to
September), this break is tough for even
the most experienced and a reward for all.

69








AARON LIM / SHUTTERSTOCK ©































TRUBAVIN / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

70
Diving

The islands have great diving and a whole
bunch of great dive shops to support your
explorations. From simple wall dives to DUDAREV MIKHAIL / SHUTTERSTOCK ©
challenging open-water observations of
massive creatures, you’ll find something
here to fit your skills and desires.
Tulamben
Tulamben (p224) seems like a mere
village along the coast road of east Bali –
until you notice all the dive shops. The
big attraction here lies right offshore: an
old ship, the Liberty, sunk during WWII.
You can dive and snorkel the wreck from
right offshore.
Gili Trawangan
Gili Trawangan is a fabulous centre for
diving and snorkelling (p300). Great
places to explore the depths abound
in the waters around all three Gilis.
Freediving is popular here, you can
snorkel right off the beaches and there 1. Diver at Pulau Menjangan (p257) 2. Snorkeller exploring the
are reefs in all directions. Liberty wreck, Tulamben (p224) 3. Nusa Penida (p143)
Nusa Penida
Seldom-visited Nusa Penida (p143)
is surrounded by what could be an
underwater theme park. Conditions
can be challenging – the services of an
excellent dive shop are essential – but
you might see huge, placid sunfish and
manta rays.
Nusa Lembongan
Nusa Lembongan (p136) is a good base
for exploring dozens of sites here, in the
surrounding mangroves and at the two
neighbouring islands. With the guidance
of a good operator, you can drift dive
between the latter and Lembongan.
Pulau Menjangan
Pulau Menjangan (p257) is Bali’s best-
known dive and snorkel area and has
a dozen superb dive sites. The diving is
excellent – iconic tropical fish, soft corals,
great visibility (usually), caves and a
spectacular drop-off. It’s best visited as
part of an overnight jaunt to Pemuteran.

71










DUDAREV MIKHAIL / SHUTTERSTOCK ©





























TRUBAVIN / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

72 KRISTINA VACKOVA / SHUTTERSTOCK ©
































Sea turtle (p372), Nusa Penida
Marine Life


There is a rich variety of coral, seaweed, a massive threat. In the Gilis, reef sharks
fish and other marine life in the coastal are easily spotted at Shark Point (p308).
waters off the islands; in fact Indonesia’s
entire marine territory was declared a Sea Turtles
manta ray sanctuary in 2014. Much of Sea turtles (p372) are common but
the marine life can be appreciated by greatly endangered. Long considered a
snorkellers, but you’re only likely to see delicacy by the Balinese, it is a constant
the larger marine animals while diving. struggle by environmentalists to protect
them from poachers. Still, you can find
Dolphins them, especially in the Gilis.
Dolphins can be found right around the
islands and have been made into an Fish of All Kinds
attraction off Lovina (p247). But you’re Smaller fish and corals can be found at
just as likely to see schools of dolphins a plethora of spots around the islands.
if you take a fast boat between Bali and Everybody’s favourite first stop is Bali’s
the Gilis. Menjangan (p257). Fish as large as
whale sharks have been reported, but
Sharks what thrills scores daily are the coloured
Sharks are always dramatic and there beauty of an array of corals, sponges, lacy
are very occasional reports of large ones, sea fans and much more. Starfish abound
including great whites, throughout the and you’ll easily spot clownfish and other
region, although they are not considered polychromatic characters.

73
Apache Reggae Bar BAR 7 Shopping
(map p54; Jl Legian 146; h7pm-3am) One of the Kuta has a vast concentration of cheap taw-
rowdier spots, Apache jams in locals and vis- dry shops, as well as huge, flashy surf-gear
itors, many of whom are on the make. The emporiums. As you head north along Jl Le-
music is loud, but that pounding you feel gian, the quality of the shops improves and
the next day is from the free-flowing arak you start finding cute little boutiques, espe-
(distilled palm and cane alcohol) served in cially near Jl Arjuna (which has wholesale
huge plastic jugs. fabric, clothing and craft stores, giving it a
bazaar feel). Continue into Seminyak for ab-

6 Legian & Double Six Beach solutely fabulous shopping.
Large malls are also making inroads. Tu-
Most of Legian’s bars are smaller and ap- ban has the Discovery Mall and the flashy Kuta & SeminyaK
peal to a more sedate crowd than those in Lippo Mall. The Beachwalk complex is a
Kuta. The very notable exception is the area bouquet of gloss on Jl Pantai Kuta. Kuta & SeminyaK KutA & Le
at the end of Jl Arjuna/Jl Double Six where Stalls with T-shirts, souvenirs, beachwear Kuta & SeminyaK SHOPPinggiAn
there are cafes and clubs. A string of beach and gaudy junk are virtually everywhere.
bars runs north from here on the Seminyak Bali’s top-selling souvenirs for those left at
beach walk.
home are penis-shaped bottle openers in a
oJenja CLuB range of colours and sizes.
(map p54; %0361-882 7711; www .jenjabali .com; UpCycle DeSign
tS Suites, Jl nakula 18; h9pm-4am Wed-Sat) A (map p54; %0813 9674 9986; www .navehmilo .
very slick, high-concept nightclub in the TS com; Jl Arjuna; h10am-8pm) Old vinyl albums,
Suites hotel. Spread over several levels, DJs drinking cans, biscuit wrappers and the like
rev it up with disco, R&B, funk, soul and are turned into highly useful, everyday items
techno. The crowd is a mix of well-heeled such as purses, bags, bracelets and more. Ex-
locals and expats. The restaurant serves up- ploring this shop feels like a treasure hunt;
scale fare, good for sharing. the goods are made in Indonesian villages.
oDouble-Six Rooftop BAR Sriwijaya Batik teXtiLeS
(map p54; %0361-734300; www .doublesixrooftop . (map p54; %0812 365 0939; Jl Arjuna; h10am-
com; Double Six Beach 66; h3-11pm; W) Sharks 6pm) Makes batik and other fabrics to order
swimming in aquarium-lined walls, suave in myriad colours. Great browsing.
lounges, a commanding location and tiki
torches: this ostentatious bar above the Dou- Summer Batik teXtiLeS
ble-Six hotel could be the villain’s lair from (map p54; %0361-735401; Jl Arjuna; h10am-
a Bond film. Amazing sunset views are best 8pm) Although most other outlets have left,
enjoyed from the circular booths enclosed – Jl Arjuna still has a few batik wholesalers
the minimum 1,000,000Rp spend to reserve hanging on amid the construction boom in
one is redeemable against food, and perfect chain hotels. This one is a riot of colour with
for groups. Drinks here are pricey. thousands of samples in a tight little space.
Bali Beach Shack BAR Periplus Bookshop BOOKS
(map p54; %0819 3622 2010; www .balibeachshack . (map p58; %0361-769757; Jl Kartika Plaza, Discov-
com; Jl Sahadewa; h3-11pm tue-Sun) A fab ery mall, 1st fl; h10am-10pm) Large selection of
open-air bar, gets nightly crowds for live new books.
music and vivacious drag shows. Live music
spans pop to country. Beachwear & Surf Shops
A huge range of surf shops sells big-name
Cocoon CLuB surf gear – including Mambo, Rip Curl, Bil-
(map p54; %0361-731266; www .cocoon-beach . labong and Quiksilver. Local names include
com; Jl Arjuna; h10am-late) A huge pool with Surfer Girl and Drifter. Most have numerous
a view of Double Six Beach anchors this locations in south Bali.
sort of high-concept club (alcohol-branded You’ll also find local surf shops with some
singlets not allowed!), which has parties renowned board-shapers ready to make you
and events around the clock. Beds, loungers a custom ride.
and VIP areas surround the pool; DJs spin
theme nights.

74
oLuke Studer SPORtS & OutDOORS mall in south Bali only adds to the traffic
(map p54; %0361-894 7425; www .studersurf- chaos on Tuban’s under-engineered streets.
boards .com; Jl Dewi Sri 7A; h9am-8pm) Legend- A huge Matahari department store is joined
ary board-shaper Luke Studer works from by scores of international chains, restau-
this large and glossy shop. Short boards, ret- rants and a supermarket.
ro fishes, single fins and classic longboards Sogo
are sold ready-made or custom-built. DePARtment StORe
(map p58; %0361-769555; Jl Kartika Plaza, Discov-
Rip Curl SPORtS & OutDOORS ery mall; h10am-10pm) Stylish Japanese de-
(map p54; %0361-754238; www .ripcurl .com; Jl Le- partment store that has an international cult
gian 62; h9am-10pm) Cast that mopey black following.
stuff aside and make a splash! Bali’s largest Discovery Mall
arm of the surfwear giant has a huge range of mALL
beachwear, swimsuits and surfboards. (map p58; %0361-755522; www .discoveryshop-
pingmall .com; Jl Kartika Plaza; h9am-9pm)
Surfer Girl CLOtHing Swallowing up a significant section of the
Kuta & SeminyaK
(map p54; %0361-752693; www .surfer-girl .com; Jl shoreline, this huge, hulking and popular
Legian 138; h9 .30am-11pm) A local legend, this enclosed Tuban mall is built on the water
vast store for girls of all ages has a winsome and filled with shops of every kind, includ-
logo that says it all. Clothes, gear, bikinis and ing the large Centro and trendy Sogo depart-
plenty of other stuff in every shade of bub- ment stores.
blegum ever made.
Carrefour mALL
Kuta & SeminyaK KutA & LegiA
Kuta & SeminyaK inFORmAtiOnn
Naruki Surf Shop SPORtS & OutDOORS (map p54; %0361-847 7222; Jl Sunset; h8am-
(map p54; %0361-765772; Jl Lebak Bene; h10am- 10pm) This large outlet of the French dis-
8pm) One of dozens of surf shops lining the count chain combines lots of small shops
lanes of Kuta, sells a huge range of boards at (books, computers, bikinis) with one huge
popular prices. hypermarket. It’s the place to stock up on
staples and there’s a large ready-to-eat sec-
Malls & Department Stores tion and food court as well. The downside,
Beachwalk mALL however, is inescapable: it’s a mall.
(map p54; www .beachwalkbali .com; Jl Pantai Kuta;
h10am-midnight) This vast open-air mall, Mal Bali Galeria mALL
hotel and condo development across from (map p54; %0361-758875; www .malbaligaleria .
Kuta Beach is filled with international co .id; Jl ngurah Rai) Huge, uninspiring mall
chains: from Gap to Starbucks. Water fea- at the traffic-congested bypass construction
tures course amid the generic retail glitz. site. The duty-free emporium is big with the
Dig deep for the odd interesting find. group-tour set.
Lippo Mall Kuta mALL
(map p58; %0361-897 8000; www .lippomalls .com; 8 Information
Jl Kartika Plaza; h10am-10pm) The latest large DANGERS & ANNOYANCES
the streets and gang are usually safe but there
KUTA’S FAVOURITE STORE are many annoyances. Touts offer prostitutes,
viagra and other tawdry diversions . you’ll also
The mobs out the front look like they’re grow weary of the cloying cries of ‘massage?’
making a run on a bank. Inside it’s sim- and other dubious offers. But your biggest irrita-
ply pandemonium. Welcome to Joger tion will likely be the sclerotic traffic.
(map p58; %0361-752523; Jl Raya Kuta; MEDICAL SERVICES
h10am-8pm), a Bali retail legend that BIMC (pwww .bimcbali .com; %0361-300 0911,
is the most popular store in the south. 0361-761263; Jl ngurah Rai 100X; h24hr) On
No visitor from elsewhere in Indonesia the bypass road just east of Kuta near the Bali
would think of leaving the island without galeria shopping mall . it’s a modern Australi-
a doe-eyed plastic puppy (4000Rp) or an-run clinic that can do tests, hotel visits and
one of the thousands of T-shirts bear- arrange medical evacuation . visits can cost
ing a wry, funny or simply inexplicable uS$100 or more . it has a branch in nusa Dua .
phrase (almost all are limited edition). Kimia Farma (%0361-755622; Jl Pantai Kuta
Warning: conditions inside the cramped 102; h24hr) Part of a local chain of pharma-
store are simply insane. cies, this is well-stocked and carries hard-to-

75
find items, such as that antidote for irksome Perama (%0361-751551; www .peramatour .
revellers in the morning: earplugs . Also has com; Jl Legian 39; h7am-10pm) is the main
branches at Tuban (%0361-757472; Jl Raya tourist shuttle-bus operation in town; it may
Kuta; h24hr) and Legian (%0361-734970; Jl do hotel pickups and drop-offs for an extra
Legian 504; h24hr) . 10,000Rp (confirm with staff when making
arrangements) . it usually has at least one bus
MONEY a day to destinations, which include Lovina
Central Kuta Money Exchange (%0361- (100,000Rp, 4½ hours), Padangbai (60,000Rp,
762970; www .centralkutabali .com; Jl Raya Kuta three hours) and ubud (50,000Rp, 1½ hours) .
168; h8am-6pm) this trustworthy place deals Trans-Sarbagita (p389), Bali’s nascent public
in numerous currencies . Has many locations, bus service, has two routes that converge on the
including a branch in Legian (Jl melasti; central parking area just south of istana Kuta
h8 .30am-9pm) and counters inside some galleria . Destinations include Denpasar, Sanur, Kuta & SeminyaK
Circle K convenience stores .
Jimbaran and nusa Dua .
POLICE Kuta is a hub for the highly useful Kura-Kura Kuta & SeminyaK SeminyAK
Police Station (%0361-751598; Jl Raya Kuta; tourist bus (p389) service .
h24hr) Ask to speak to the tourist police . BOAT Kuta & SeminyaK get ting tHeRe & AWAy
Tourist Police Post (%0361-784 5988; Jl Pan- Pelni Ticket Office (www .pelni .co .id; %0361-
tai Kuta; h24hr) this is a branch of the main 763963; Jl Raya Kuta 299; h8am-noon &
police station in Denpasar . it’s right across 1-4pm mon-Fri, 8am-1pm Sat) Source for
from the beach; the officers have a gig that is schedules and tickets for the national shipping
sort of like a Balinese Baywatch . line .
POST
Postal agencies that can send mail are common . 8 Getting Around

Main Post Office (%0361-754012; Jl Selamet; the hardest part about getting around south
h7am-2pm mon-thu, to 11am Fri, to 1pm Sat) Bali is the traffic. Besides using taxis, you can
On a little road east of Jl Raya Kuta, this small rent a motorbike, often with a surfboard rack, or
and efficient post office is well practised in a bike – just ask at the place you’re staying . One
shipping large packages . of the nicest ways to get around the area is by
foot along the beach .
TOURIST INFORMATION
There’s no useful official tourist office. Places TO/FROM THE AIRPORT
that advertise themselves as ‘tourist infor- An official taxi from the airport monopoly costs
mation centres’ are usually commercial travel 55,000Rp to tuban, 80,000Rp to Kuta and
agents, or worse: time-share condo sales oper- 95,000Rp to Legian . When travelling to the
ations . airport, get a metered taxi for savings .
TRAVEL AGENCIES TAXI
Hanafi (www .hanafi .net; %0821 4538 9646; Jl In traffic, a ride into Seminyak can top 80,000Rp
Pantai Kuta) this legendary tour guide oper- and take more than 30 minutes; walking the
ates from Kuta . Customises trips of all kinds beach will be quicker .
whether for families or couples . gay-friendly
too .
Seminyak
8 Getting There & Away
Seminyak is flash, brash and arguably a bit
BEMO phoney. It’s also the centre of life for hordes
Bemos (minibuses) regularly travel between of the island’s expats (many of whom own
Kuta and the tegal terminal in Denpasar – the boutiques, design clothes, surf, or do seem-
fare should be 8000Rp . the route goes from Jl ingly nothing at all). It may be immediately
Raya Kuta near Jl Pantai Kuta, looping past the north of Kuta and Legian, but in many re-
beach, then on Jl melasti and back past Bemo spects, not the least of which is its intangible
Corner for the trip back to Denpasar . sense of style, Seminyak feels almost like it’s
there’s a bemo stop (off Jl Raya Kuta) for in- on another island.
frequent bemo service between Kuta and tuban . It’s a very dynamic place, home to scores
BUS of restaurants and clubs and a wealth of cre-
For public buses to anywhere in Bali, you’ll have ative, designer shops and galleries. World-
to go to the appropriate terminal in Denpasar class hotels line the beach, and what a beach
first. Tourist shuttles are widely advertised on it is – as wide and sandy as Kuta’s but less
backstreets . crowded.

76
Seminyak & Kerobokan
44444444 C D E F G H
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77
Seminyak & Kerobokan # e 0 0 0.25 miles
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A B C D E F G H
#
113 Central Kuta ú
#
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#43
#
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æ
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ú
#
þ
# 77
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Jl Raya Kerobokan Kuta & SeminyaK get ting AROunD
KEROBOKAN Kuta & SeminyaK SeminyAK
2 2
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#
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Rental #60
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#
65 104 þ #117
þ
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Jl Pangkung Sari #ú 52
3 þ 3
# 131
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ú
Kimia # 55 My Basket Bali (700m);
# 56
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þ
51 Jl Braban ú # ChannelOne Batik (700m);
#
#
ú
# 27 ÿ 100 þ Victory Art (1km)
#122
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4 # #ú68 72 118 # 89 #ú45 þ þ 46 4
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78
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See Kuta & Legian Map (p54)
A B C D E F G H
444

78
Seminyak & Kerobokan

æ Top Sights 33 Sarinande Beach Inn...............................E6
1 Seminyak Beach..................................... C4 34 Taman Ayu Cottage................................D2
35 Villa Bunga.................................................E1

æ Sights 36 Villa Karisa................................................F6
2 Batubelig Beach...................................... B2 37 Villa Kresna ..............................................E6
3 Kerobokan Beach ................................... B3 38 W Bali – Seminyak ..................................B2
4 Kerobokan Jail..........................................G1
5 Pura Masceti............................................C4 ú Eating
6 Pura Petitenget....................................... C4 39 Bali Bakery ...............................................D4
40 Barbacoa...................................................F1

Ø Activities, Courses & Tours 41 Biku ...........................................................D3
7 Amo Beauty Spa..................................... D3 42 Bintang Supermarket.............................G7
8 Bodyworks...............................................C4 43 Cafe Degan................................................F1
9 Chill...........................................................H6 44 Café Moka ................................................G5
10 Deluta Surf...............................................C4 Café Seminyak...............................(see 42)
Kuta & SeminyaK
11 Jari Menari............................................... G5 45 Corner House...........................................F4
12 Jiwa Bikram ............................................. D2 46 Divine Earth..............................................G4
13 Prana ........................................................H6 47 Earth Cafe & Market ...............................F4
14 Sate Bali................................................... D5 48 Fat Gajah...................................................G5
Kuta & SeminyaK SeminyA
15 Seminyak Yoga Shala.............................G4 49 Ginger Moon.............................................E4
Kuta & SeminyaK Be ACHeSK
16 Sundari Day Spa ...................................... F1 50 Gourmet Cafe ..........................................D2
51 Grocer & Grind.........................................E4

ÿ Sleeping 52 Gusto Gelato & Coffee............................G3
17 Alila Seminyak......................................... C3 53 Kreol Kitchen ...........................................F6
18 Brown Feather.......................................... E1 54 La Lucciola ...............................................C4
19 Buah Bali Villas........................................ C3 55 L'Assiette..................................................G4
20 Casa Artista..............................................E5 56 Mama San ................................................F4
21 Grand Balisani Suites............................. B2 57 Mannekepis..............................................G6
22 Inada Losmen..........................................G6 58 Merah Putih..............................................D2
23 Katamana................................................. C3 59 Motel Mexicola.........................................D4
24 Legian.......................................................C4 60 Naughty Nuri's.........................................G3
25 Luna2 Studiotel........................................E6 61 Pasar Kerobokan..................................... G1
26 M Boutique Hostel.................................. D2 62 Petitenget.................................................C3
27 Mutiara Bali...............................................E4 63 Rolling Fork ............................................. H6
28 Ned's Hide-Away.....................................G6 64 Saigon Street...........................................D3
29 Oberoi....................................................... D5 65 Sangsaka..................................................E3
30 Pradha Villas............................................D4 66 Sardine.......................................................F1
31 Raja Gardens............................................F7 67 Sarong.......................................................D2
32 Samaya ....................................................C4 68 Sisterfields ...............................................E4
Seminyak seamlessly merges with Ker- oSeminyak Beach BeACH
obokan, which is immediately north – in fact A sunset lounger and an ice-cold Bintang
the exact border between the two is as fuzzy on the beach at sunset is simply magical.
as most other geographic details in Bali. You A good stretch can be found near Pura Pe-
could easily spend your entire holiday in titenget, and it tends to be less crowded than
Seminyak. further south in Kuta.
r Beaches 1 Sights
Kuta Beach morphs seamlessly into Legian, Seminyak’s sights are almost entirely relat-
then Seminyak. Because of the limited road ed to consumption. After the beach and its
access, the sand in Seminyak tends to be less temples, simply strolling the main strips
crowded than in Kuta. This also means that and pausing to people-watch can be richly
it’s less patrolled and the water conditions rewarding – and entertaining.
are less monitored. The odds of encounter-
ing dangerous rip tides and other hazards Pura Petitenget HinDu temPLe
are ever-present, especially as you head (Jl Petitenget) This is an important temple
north. and the scene of many ceremonies. It is one
of a string of sea temples that stretches from

79


69 Taco Beach Grill......................................H6 100 Divine Diva................................................F4
70 Ultimo........................................................E4 101 Domicil......................................................G6
71 Wacko Burger...........................................F6 102 Drifter Surf Shop.....................................E4
72 Warung Aneka Rasa................................F4 103 Duzty.........................................................G6
73 Warung Eny ............................................. D2 104 Geneva Handicraft Centre.....................F3
74 Warung Ibu Made....................................G4 105 Hobo..........................................................F3
75 Warung Kolega........................................ D2 106 Indivie........................................................G6
76 Warung Sobat ..........................................G1 107 JJ Bali Button........................................... G1
77 Warung Sulawesi .....................................E2 108 Kendra Gallery......................................... F5
78 Warung Taman Bambu..........................H6 109 Kevala Home............................................ D1
79 Watercress ...............................................C1 110 Kody & Ko.................................................D4 Kuta & SeminyaK
Lily Jean........................................ (see 126)

û Drinking & Nightlife 111 Lucy's Batik..............................................G4 Kuta & SeminyaK SeminyAK
Anomali Coffee...............................(see 45) 112 Lulu Yasmine............................................F4
80 Bali Joe......................................................F6 113 Mercredi ....................................................F1
81 Bottoms Up ..............................................F6 114 Milo's.........................................................D4
82 Champlung Bar........................................E7 115 Namu.........................................................C3
83 Koh............................................................G6 116 Niconico....................................................D5
84 Ku De Ta................................................... D5 117 Nôblis........................................................G3
85 La Favela...................................................F4 118 Paul Ropp .................................................F4
Kuta & SeminyaK ACtivitieS
86 Mirror........................................................ D2 119 Periplus Bookshop..................................D4
87 Pantai ....................................................... B2 120 Pourquoi Pas............................................G4
88 Potato Head............................................. B3 121 Prisoners of St Petersburg ....................F4
89 Red Carpet Champagne Bar..................F4 122 Purpa Fine Art Gallery.............................G4
90 Revolver ....................................................E4 Quarzia Boutique..........................(see 114)
91 Ryoshi Seminyak House of Jazz........... G7 123 Samantha Robinson ...............................D4
92 Zappaz.......................................................E4 124 Samsara ...................................................G5
125 Sandio.......................................................G4

ý Entertainment 126 Seminyak Village.....................................D4
Upstairs Lounge Cinema Club.... (see 46) 127 Souq..........................................................G4
Thaikila...........................................(see 118)

þ Shopping 128 Theatre Art Gallery..................................G6
93 Ashitaba................................................... G5 129 Tribali ........................................................D2
94 Ayun Tailor................................................C1 130 Tulola ........................................................D2
95 Bamboo Blonde .......................................F4 Uma & Leopold..............................(see 47)
96 Bathe.........................................................D1 White Peacock.............................(see 126)
97 Biasa......................................................... G7 131 You Like Lamp .........................................G3
98 Carga........................................................ D3
99 Cotton Line by St Isador.........................F4
Pura Luhur Ulu Watu on the Bukit Peninsu- 2 Activities
la north to Pura Tanah Lot in western Bali. Seminyak’s spas (and those of Kerobo-
Petitenget loosely translates as ‘magic box’; kan) are among the best in Bali and offer
it was a treasured belonging of the legend- a huge range of treatments, therapies and
ary 16th-century priest Nirartha, who re- pleasures.
fined the Balinese religion and visited this
site often. oJari Menari SPA
The temple is renowned for its anniversa- (%0361-736740; www .jarimenari .com; Jl Raya
ry celebrations on the Balinese 210-day cal- Basangkasa 47; sessions from 385,000Rp; h9am-
endar. It is right next to Pura Masceti. 9pm) Jari Menari is true to its name, which
Pura Masceti HinDu temPLe means ‘dancing fingers’: your body will be
one happy dance floor. The all-male staff use
(Jl Petitenget) An agricultural temple where massage techniques that emphasise rhythm.
farmers pray for relief from rat infestations, They also offer classes in giving massage
and savvy builders make offerings of forgive- (from US$170).
ness before planting yet another villa in the
rice fields.

80
C Courses
SEMINYAK’S CURVING SPINE
Sate Bali COOKing
The thriving heart of Seminyak is along (%0361-736734; Jl Kayu Aya 22; courses from
meandering Jl Kayu Aya (aka Jl Oberoi/ 400,000Rp; h9 .30am-1 .30pm) Restaurant Sate
Jl Laksmana). It heads towards the Bali runs this excellent Balinese cooking
beach from bustling Jl Basangkasa course. Students learn to prepare Balinese
and then turns north through a part spices and sambals, which are then used to
of Seminyak along Jl Petitenget. The flavour duck, fish and pork dishes.
road is lined with a profusion of restau-
rants, upscale boutiques and hotels as 4 Sleeping
it curves through Seminyak and into Seminyak has a wide range of accommoda-
Kerobokan. Sidewalks have hugely im- tion, from world-class resorts on the beach
proved window-shopping and cafe- to humble hotels hidden on backstreets.
hopping; now it’s the drivers stuck in This is also the start of villa-land, which runs
traffic who fume. north from here through the vanishing rice
Kuta & SeminyaK
fields beyond Canggu. For many, a private
villa with its own pool is a holiday dream.
Prana SPA Oodles of midrange chain hotels have
(%0361-730840; www .pranaspabali .com; Jl Kunti popped up across south Bali that add Sem-
Kuta & SeminyaK SeminyA
118X; massages 1hr from 510,000Rp; h9am-10pm) inyak to their names even when they’re as
Kuta & SeminyaK COuRSeS K
A palatial Moorish fantasy that is easily the far away as Denpasar.
most lavishly decorated spa in Bali, Prana
offers everything from basic hour-long mas-

sages to facials and all manner of beauty 4 Jl Camplung Tanduk &
treatments. Around
Bodyworks SPA Raja Gardens gueStHOuSe $
(%0361-733317; www .bodyworksbali .com; Jl Kayu (%0361-730494; www .jdw757 .wixsite .com/ra-
Jati 2; massage from 295,000Rp; h9am-10pm) jagardens; off Jl Camplung tanduk; r with fan/air-
Get waxed, get your hair done, get the kinks con from 400,000/600,000Rp; aWs) Here
rubbed out of your joints – all this and more since 1980, this old-school guesthouse has
is on the menu at this uber-popular spa in spacious, grassy grounds with fruit trees and
the heart of Seminyak. a quiet spot located almost on the beach.
The eight rooms are fairly basic but there
Chill SPA are open-air bathrooms and plenty of pot-
(%0361-734701; www .chillreflexology .com; Jl Kun- ted plants. The large pool is a nice spot to
ti; treatments per hour from 225,000Rp; h10am- lounge by, and it’s generally a mellow place.
10pm) The name says it all. This Zen place Inada Losmen
gueStHOuSe $
embraces reflexology; treatments include (%0361-732269; putuinada@hotmail .com; gang
full-body pressure-point massage.
Bima 9; s/d from 150,000/180,000Rp) Buried in
Seminyak Yoga Shala yOgA a gang behind Bintang Supermarket, this
(%0361-730498; www .seminyakyogashala .com; budget champ is a short walk from clubs,
Jl Basangkasa; classes from 120,000Rp) No- the beach and other Seminyak joy. The 12
nonsense yoga studio with daily classes in rooms are small and somewhat dark.
several styles including ashtanga, Mysore Ned’s Hide-Away
and yin yang. gueStHOuSe $
(%0361-731270; waynekelly1978@gmail .
Surf Goddess SuRFing com; gang Bima 3; r with fan/air-con from
(%0858 997 0808; www .surfgoddessretreats .com; 180,000/300,000Rp; aW) While its stand-
per week package with r from uS$3000) Surf hol- ards have slipped, Ned’s remains a good
idays for women that include lessons, yoga, budget choice with 16 rooms, some basic
meals and lodging in a posh guesthouse in and others more plush. Wi-fi is only availa-
the backstreets of Seminyak. ble in reception.
Deluta Surf SuRFing Sarinande Beach Inn HOteL $$
(Jl Petitenget 40X; surfboard rental per day from (%0361-730383; www .sarinandehotel .com; Jl Sa-
150,000Rp; h9am-7pm) Has board rental and rinande 15; r incl breakfast 550,000-800,000Rp;
surf gear near Seminyak Beach. aWs) The 26 excellent-value rooms here

81
are in older two-storey blocks set around as Passion and Inspiration, are in an elegant
a small pool; the decor is a bit dated but two-storey house surrounding a pool. Some
everything is well maintained. Amenities have crystal chandeliers; breakfast is served
include fridges, satellite TV and DVD play- on your patio.
ers, and there’s a cafe. The beach is a three-
minute walk away. oOberoi HOteL $$$
(%0361-730361; www .oberoihotels .com; Jl Kayu
Villa Kresna BOutiQue HOteL $$ Aya; r incl breakfast from 4,400,000Rp; aiWs)
(%0361-730317; www .villakresna .com; Jl Sarinande The beautifully understated Oberoi has been
17; r/villa from 690,000/920,000Rp; aWs) The a refined Balinese-style beachside retreat
beach is only 50m from this cute, idiosyn- since 1971. All accommodation options have
cratic property tucked away on a small gang. private verandahs, and as you move up in Kuta & SeminyaK
The 22 art-filled units are mostly suites, price, additional features include walled vil- Kuta & SeminyaK e Ating
which have a nice flow-through design with las, ocean views and private pools. From the Kuta & SeminyaK SeminyAK
both public and private patios. A small, sinu- cafe that overlooks the almost-private sweep
ous pool wanders through the property. of beach to the numerous luxuries, this is a
Villa Karisa HOteL $$$ place to spoil yourself.
(%0361-739395; www .villakarisabali .com; Jl Dru- oSamaya viLLA $$$
padi 100X; r 1,250,000-2,500,000Rp; aWs) It’s (%0361-731149; www .thesamayabali .com; Jl Kayu
like visiting the gracious friends in Bali you Aya; villa from uS$625; aWs) Understated
wish you had. Ideally located on a little gang yet cultured, the Samaya is one of the best
off busy Jl Drupadi, this large villa-style inn bets for a villa right on the beach in south
has a row of rooms filled with antiques and Bali. It boasts 52 villas in a luxurious con-
many comforts. Guests gather in the com- temporary style, each featuring a private
mon room or around the luxurious 12m pool. Some units are in a compound away
pool. Enjoy Javanese antique style in the from the water. The food, from breakfast on-
‘Shiva’ room. wards, is superb.
Luna2 Studiotel BOutiQue HOteL $$$ Legian HOteL $$$
(%0361-730402; www .luna2 .com; Jl Sarinande 20; (%0361-730622; www .ghmhotels .com; Jl
r incl breakfast uS$280-450; aWs) Is it Mon- Pantai Kaya Aya; ste/villa incl breakfast from
drian? Is it Roy Lichtenstein? We’re not sure 6,900,000/11,600,000Rp; aiWs) The Le-
which modern artists are the inspiration for gian is flash and brash – one of the reasons
this eye-popping hotel, but we can say the it’s a fave with people who use their own jets
results astound. The 14 boldly decorated stu- to reach Bali. All 79 rooms claim to be suites,
dio apartments feature kitchens, gadgetry, even if some are just large rooms (called ‘stu-
balconies and access to a rooftop bar look- dios’). On a little bluff right on the beach, the
ing over the ocean. A 16-seat cinema shows views are panoramic. The design mixes tra-
movies, and the pool is a full 25m. ditional materials with contemporary flair.

4 Jl Kayu Aya & Around Pradha Villas viLLA $$$
(%0361-735446; www .pradhavillas .com; Jl Kayu
Mutiara Bali HOteL $$ Jati 5; villa from 3,100,000Rp; aWs) Ground
(%0361-734966; www .mutiarabali .com; Jl Braban zero for Seminyak: the 11 villas are a short
77; r/villa from 860,000/2,100,000Rp; aWs) walk to some of the best restaurants and
The 17 private villas here are good value, the beach. Units vary in size but each is a
each with an open lounge area looking out private walled compound with a swimming
to a private plunge pool. The hotel-style pool. Jacuzzis add an extra romantic touch;
rooms have all the usual amenities plus deep wake up to a custom-prepared breakfast by
balconies for lounging. the gracious staff.
Casa Artista gueStHOuSe $$ 5 Eating
(%0361-736749; www .casaartistabali .com; Jl Sari
Dewi 17; r incl breakfast 750,000-1,400,000Rp; Jl Kayu Aya is the focus of Seminyak eat-
aWs) You can literally dance for joy at ing (despite the hokey nickname ‘Eat St’)
this cultured guesthouse where the owner, but there are great choices for every budget
a professional tango dancer, offers lessons. virtually everywhere. Note that some restau-
The eight compact rooms, with names such rants morph into clubs as the night wears

82
on. Conversely, some bars and clubs also norm. There’s a small stand for babi guling
have good food. Meanwhile, you’re never (suckling pig) right next door.
far from top-notch coffee as Seminyak has a
thriving cafe culture. Warung Ibu Made inDOneSiAn $
(Jl Basangkasa; mains from 15,000Rp; h7am-

5 Jl Camplung Tanduk & 7pm) The woks roar almost from dawn to
dusk amid the constant hubbub on this busy
Around corner of Jl Raya Seminyak, where several
Kreol Kitchen mODeRn AuStRALiAn $$ stalls cook food fresh under the shade of a
(%0361-738514; www .kreolkitchen .com; Jl Dru- huge banyan. Try refreshing with the juice
padi 56; mains from 60,000Rp; h8am-10pm) of a young coconut.
You won’t find pralines here but you’ll find
modern Australian cuisine with ingredients Bintang Supermarket SuPeRmARKet $
sourced locally. It’s a fusion of Asian and (%0361-730552; Jl Raya Seminyak 17; h8am-
Western flavours with daily and seasonal 10 .30pm) Always busy, this large supermar-
specials. The Melbourne-style dim sum is a ket is the grocery favourite among expats,
Kuta & SeminyaK
hit as are the savoury pies and South Asian who appreciate its good prices and broad
mains. The decor is ubiquitous retro; avert range of food, including good fruit and veg.
your eyes from the hideous Harris Hotel It sells affordable sunscreen, bug spray and
Kuta & SeminyaK e Ating
across the street. other sundries as well.
Kuta & SeminyaK SeminyAK
Café Moka CAFe $

5 Jl Raya Seminyak & Jl (%0361-731424; www .cafemokabali .com; Jl Ba-
Basangkasa sangkasa; treats 15,000-35,000Rp; h7am-10pm;
Warung Taman Bambu BALineSe $ a) Enjoy French-style baked goods (fresh
(%0361-888 1567; Jl Plawa 10; mains from baguettes!) at this popular bakery and cafe.
25,000Rp; h9am-10pm; W) This classic Many escape the heat and linger here for
warung may look simple from the street but hours over little French treats. The bulle-
the comfy tables are – like the many fresh tin board spills over with notices for villa
and spicy dishes on offer – a cut above the rentals.

PICK A NAME, ANY NAME
A small lane or alley is known as a gang, and most of those in Bali lack signs or even names.
Some are referred to by the name of a connecting street, eg Jl Padma Utara is the gang going
north of Jl Padma.
Meanwhile, some streets in Kuta, Legian and Seminyak have more than one name. Many
streets were unofficially named after a well-known temple and/or business place. In recent
years there has been an attempt to impose official – and usually more Balinese – names on
the streets. But the old names are still common and some streets may have more than one.
Following are the old (un official) and current official names, from north to south:
OLD (UNOFFICIAL) CURRENT (OFFICIAL)
Jl Oberoi/Jl Laksmana Jl Kayu Aya
Jl Raya Seminyak northern stretch: Jl Basangkasa
Jl Dhyana Pura/Jl Abimanyu Jl Camplung tanduk
Jl Double Six Jl Arjuna
Jl Pura Bagus taruna Jl Werkudara
Jl Padma Jl yudistra
Poppies gang ii Jl Batu Bolong
Jl Pantai Kuta Jl Pantai Banjar Pande mas
Jl Kartika Plaza Jl Dewi Sartika
Jl Segara Jl Jenggala
Jl Satria Jl Kediri

83
Café Seminyak CAFe $ 11pm; W) With polished concrete floors, dan-
(%0361-736967; Jl Raya Seminyak 17; mains 40,000- gling light bulbs, distressed walls and vin-
70,000Rp; h7am-10pm) Right in front of the tage-style furniture, this cavernous cafe is
busy Bintang Supermarket, this cute and almost a Seminyak cliche. A popular brunch
casual place has excellent smoothies and spot, it does great coffee, big breakfasts,
sandwiches made with freshly baked bread. homemade sausage rolls and steak sand-
wiches. There’s also a small shady courtyard
Mama San FuSiOn $$ and a relaxed, breezy upstairs dining area.
(%0361-730436; www .mamasanbali .com; Jl
Raya Kerobokan 135; mains 90,000-200,000Rp; Mannekepis BeLgiAn $$
hnoon-3pm & 6 .30-11pm; aW) One of Sem- (%0361-847 5784; Jl Raya Seminyak 2; mains
inyak’s most popular restaurants, this styl- 50,000-150,000Rp; h10am-midnight; W) That Kuta & SeminyaK
ish warehouse-sized space is split into levels, little icon of Brussels is permanently peeing
with photographs hanging from exposed out front at this delicious Belgian bistro. Kuta & SeminyaK e Ating
brick walls. The menu has an emphasis on Tear your eyes away from the fish swimming
creative dishes from across Southeast Asia. in the ceiling tank to peruse a selection of
A long cocktail list provides liquid balm excellent steaks, all served with top-notch
for the mojito set and has lots of tropical- frites. Sit on the upper-floor terrace away
flavoured pours. from the bedlam of the street. There is live
jazz and blues many nights.
Fat Gajah ASiAn $$
Kuta & SeminyaK SeminyAK
(%0851 0168 8212; www .fatgajah .com; Jl Basang- Taco Beach Grill meXiCAn $$
kasa 21; dumplings 52,000-110,000Rp; h11am- (%0361-854 6262; www .tacobeachgrill .com; Jl
10 .30pm; W) Fat Gajah is all about dump- Kunti 6; mains 50,000-80,000Rp; h10am-11pm;
lings and noodles, prepared with mostly W) As sprightly as a chilli-accented salsa,
organic ingredients. They come fried or this open-fronted casual cafe is known for
steamed with innovative fillings such as beef its babi guling tacos. Obviously merging Ba-
rendang, black-pepper crab, kimchi tuna or li’s iconic suckling pig with Mexican flavours
lemongrass lamb. There’s a range of small is a good thing. Expect the usual south-
Asian plates. The spare dining room is very of-the-border standards plus good juices,
appealing. smoothies and margaritas. Offers hotel and
villa delivery.
Rolling Fork itALiAn $$
(%0361-733 9633; Jl Kunti 1; mains from 80,000Rp;

h8 .30am-11pm; W) A gnocchi-sized little 5 Jl Kayu Aya
trattoria, Rolling Fork serves excellent Ital- Warung Aneka Rasa inDOneSiAn $
ian fare. Breakfast features gorgeous baked (Jl Kayu Aya; meals from 20,000Rp; h7am-7pm)
goods and excellent coffees. Lunch and Keeping things real in the heart of Sem-
dinner include authentic and tasty home- inyak’s upmarket retail strip, this humble
made pastas, salads, seafood and more. The warung cooks up all the Indo classics in an
open-air dining room has an alluring retro inviting open-front cafe. It’s a refuge from
charm; the Italian owners provide just the the buzz.
right accent.
Bali Bakery CAFe $
Divine Earth vegAn $$ (%0361-738033; www .balibakery .com; Jl Kayu Aya;
(%0361-731964; www .divineearthbali .com; Jl Raya mains 40,000-70,000Rp; h7 .30am-10 .30pm; W)
Basangkasa 1200A; mains 50,000-140,000Rp; The best feature of the Seminyak Sq open-
h7am-11pm; aWv) S A sibling of the air mall is this bakery with its shady tables
much-loved Earth Cafe (p84), this organic and long menu of baked goods, salads, sand-
vegetarian restaurant also does tasty vegan wiches and other fine fare. It’s a good place
and raw food. It’s perhaps better known to linger before heading back out to shop.
for its Upstairs Lounge Cinema Club (p86),
where you can bring your food and drink to oSisterfields CAFe $$
watch classic, art-house and documentary (%0361-738454; www .sisterfieldsbali .com; Jl Kayu
films. Cendana 7; mains 70,000-150,000Rp; h7am-5pm;
W) Trendy Sisterfields does classic Aussie
Corner House CAFe $$ breakfasts such as smashed avocado, and
(%0361-730276; www .cornerhousebali .com; Jl more-inventive dishes such as truffled oyster
Laksmana 10A; dishes 35,000-125,000Rp; h7am- mushrooms with duck eggs and crispy pig

84
ears. There are also hipster faves like pulled- are the onion rings, fries, shakes and more.
pork rolls and lobster sliders. Grab a seat at There are all manner of toppings and condi-
a booth, the counter or in the rear courtyard. ments to choose from. The tables are in an
Several other good coffee cafes are nearby. open-air covered patio with actual rice-field
views.
oGinger Moon ASiAn $$
(%0361-734533; www .gingermoonbali .com; Jl Ultimo itALiAn $$
Kayu Aya 7; mains 70,000-160,000Rp; h11am-mid- (%0361-738720; www .balinesia .co .id; Jl Kayu Aya
night; Wc) Australian Dean Keddell is one 104; mains 70,000-180,000Rp; h4pm-1am) This
of scores of young chefs lured to Bali to run vast and always popular restaurant thrives
restaurants. His creation is an appealing, in a part of Seminyak that’s as thick as a
airy space, with carved wood and palms. good risotto with eateries. Choose a table
The menu features a ‘Best of’ list of favour- overlooking the street action, out the back
ites, served in portions designed for sharing in one of the gardens or inside. Ponder the
and grazing. Top picks include cauliflower surprisingly authentic menu and then let
pizza and a special chicken curry. There’s a the army of servers take charge.
Kuta & SeminyaK
good kids menu. Grocer & Grind CAFe $$
Petitenget mODeRn AuStRALiAn $$ (%0361-730418; www .grocerandgrind .com; Jl
(%0361-473 3054; www .petitenget .net; Jl Pe- Kayu Jati 3X; mains from 60,000Rp; h7am-10pm;
titenget 40X; mains breakfast 40,000-80,000Rp, aW) You might think you’re at a sleek Syd-
Kuta & SeminyaK SeminyAK
lunch & dinner 60,000-200,000Rp; h7am- ney cafe, but look around and you’re unmis-
10 .30pm; W) If it wasn’t so hot, you could be takably in Bali. Classic sandwiches, home-
in Paris. Soft jazz classics play at this very made Aussie pies, salads and big breakfasts
appealing bistro run by noted Australian are popular at this south Bali chain.
chef Simon Blaby that mixes a casual ter- La Lucciola
Kuta & SeminyaK DRinKing & nigHtLiFe
race, bar and a more formal dining area. The FuSiOn $$$
menu has seasonal specials and features fla- (%0361-730838; Jl Petitenget; mains 120,000-
vours of Europe and Asia. Everything is art- 400,000Rp; h9am-11pm) A sleek beach-
fully prepared; there’s a fun little kids menu. side restaurant with good views across a
lovely lawn and sand to the surf from its
Motel Mexicola meXiCAn $$ 2nd-floor tables. The bar is popular with
(%0361-736688; www .motelmexicolabali .com; Jl sunset-watchers, most of whom move on to
Kayu Jati 9; mains from 60,000Rp; h11am-1am) dinner here. The menu is a creative melange
Not your average taqueria, Motel Mexicola of international fare with Italian flair.
is an extravaganza that channels a tropical
version of a nightclub. The huge space is
decked out in kitschy neon and palm trees. 6 Drinking & Nightlife
Food is secondary to drinks: soft corn tor- Like your vision at 2am, the division between
tilla tacos filled with tempura prawn or restaurant, bar and club blurs in Seminyak.
shredded pork, along with meaty mains. Although it lacks massive clubs where you
Cocktails, served in copper kettles, are a can greet the dawn (or vice versa), stalwarts
treat on a balmy evening. can head south to the rough edges of Kuta
Earth Cafe & Market vegetARiAn $$ and Legian in the wee hours. Belgian bistro
(%0851 0304 4645; www .earthcafebali .com; Jl Mannekepis (p83) has live jazz some nights.
Kayu Aya; mains 40,000-100,000Rp; h7am-11pm; Numerous bars line Jl Camplung Tanduk,
Wv) S The good vibes are organic at this though noise-sensitive locals complain if
vegetarian cafe and store. Choose from crea- things get too raucous.
tive salads, sandwiches or wholegrain vegan

and raw-food goodies. It’s most famous for 6 Jl Camplung Tanduk &
its six-course ‘Planet Platter’. The beverage Around
menu includes fresh juices and detox mixes. Bali Joe gAy & LeSBiAn
Wacko Burger BuRgeRS $$ (%0361-730931; www .balijoebar .com; Jl Camplung
(%0821 4401 0888; www .wackoburger .com; Jl Dru- tanduk; h3pm-3am; W) One of several lively
padi 18; mains from 50,000Rp; hnoon-9 .30pm) LGBT venues along this strip. Drag queens
It’s like you died and went to comfort-food and go-go dancers rock the house nightly.
heaven. The burgers here are beloved as

85
Ryoshi Seminyak House of Jazz BAR
(%0361-731152; www .facebook .com/ryoshibali; Jl SEMINYAK SUNSETS
Raya Seminyak 17; hnoon-midnight, music from
9pm mon, Wed & Fri) The Seminyak branch of At the beach end of Jl Camplung Tan-
the Bali chain of Japanese restaurants has duk you have a choice: turn left for a
live jazz three nights a week on an intimate beachy frolic at the string of beach bars,
stage under a traditionally thatched roof. both simple and plush; or turn right for
Expect some of the best local and visiting trendy beach clubs such as Ku De Ta, or
talent. cheery vendors offering cheap Bintang,
a plastic chair and maybe some bad
Champlung Bar BAR guitar music.
(%0361-730603; off Jl Camplung tanduk; Kuta & SeminyaK
h11am-midnight) The most substantial of the
beach bars along the beach walk south of Jl loon; nab one and enjoy tasty fresh bites for Kuta & SeminyaK SeminyAK
Camplung Tanduk, Champlung has its share breakfast and lunch.
of ubiquitous brightly coloured umbrellas
and beanbags on the sand, plus a typical Red Carpet Champagne Bar BAR Kuta & SeminyaK DRinKing & nigHtLiFe
beach menu (pizzas, noodles etc). After sun- (%0361-737889; www .redcarpetchampagnebar .
set, expect DJs and beach parties. com; Jl Kayu Aya 42; hnoon-late) Choose from
more than 200 types of champagne at this
Koh CLuB over-the-top glam bar on Seminyak’s cou-
(%0812 3643 9919; www .facebook .com/kohbali; ture strip. Waltz the red carpet and toss back
Jl Camplung tanduk; h11pm-5am thu-Sat) Pop- a few namesake flutes while contemplating
ular with locals and expats (as opposed to a raw oyster and displays of frilly frocks. It’s
tourists), Koh can be quiet but it does have open to the street (but elevated, darling) so
events with world-class DJs when it jams. you can gaze down on the masses.
Entry is through a shipping container.
Ku De Ta CLuB
Bottoms Up gAy (%0361-736969; www .kudeta .net; Jl Kayu Aya 9;
(www .bottomsupseminyak .webs .com; Jl Camplung h8am-late; W) Ku De Ta teems with Bali’s
tanduk; h6pm-4am) Nightly drag shows, go- beautiful people (including those whose
go dancers and general frivolity. status is purely aspirational). Scenesters
perfect their ‘bored’ look over drinks during

6 Jl Kayu Aya the day while gazing at the fine stretch of
oLa Favela BAR beach. Sunset brings out crowds, who dine
on eclectic fare at tables. The music throbs
(%0361-730603; www .lafavela .com; Jl Kayu Aya with increasing intensity through the night.
177X; hnoon-3am; W) An alluring, mysterious Special events are legendary.
entry lures you into full bohemian flair at La
Favela, one of Bali’s coolest and most origi- Anomali Coffee CAFe
nal nightspots. Themed rooms lead you on a (%0361-767119; www .anomalicoffee .com; Jl Kayu
confounding tour from dimly lit speakeasy Aya 7B; coffee from 26,000Rp; h6 .30am-10pm;
cocktail lounges and antique dining rooms W) A Jakarta-based chain, Anomali is a se-
to graffiti-splashed bars. Tables are cleared rious coffee drinker’s standout. Single-origin
after 11pm to make way for DJs and a dance beans are sourced from across the archi-
floor. pelago and roasted on-site. Take your pick
It’s equally popular for its garden restau- of V-60 drip coffee, Aeropress, siphon or
rant, which has a Mediterranean-inspired espresso made by expert baristas in cool
menu. warehouse-style surrounds. It also sells
packaged ground beans.
oRevolver CAFe
(%0361-788 4968; off Jl Kayu Aya; coffee 20,000- Zappaz BAR
30,000Rp; h7am-6pm; W) Wander down a (%0361-742 5534; Jl Kayu Aya 78; h11am-
tiny gang and push through narrow wood- midnight) Brit Norman Findlay tickles the
en doors to reach this matchbox of a coffee ivories nightly at this cheerful piano bar,
bar that does an excellent selection of brews. where he’s been not-quite perfecting his
There are just a few tables in the creatively enthusiastic playing for years and years.
retro room that’s styled like a Wild West sa- An enthusiastic cover band lures in gleeful
crowds. Skip the food.

86
3 Entertainment Clothing
Upstairs Lounge Cinema Club CinemA Seminyak’s surf shops rival those found in
(%0361-731964; www .facebook .com/divineearth- Kuta and you’ll find branches of the big
bali; JL Raya Basangkasa 1200A; hfilms 8pm) brands here as well.
State-of-the-art screenings of new, classic, oDrifter Surf Shop FASHiOn & ACCeSSORieS
art-house and unusual movies in a comfy (%0361-733274; www .driftersurf .com; Jl Kayu Aya
and small cinema. Admission is free with 50; h7 .30am-11pm) High-end surf fashion,
any food purchase from the downstairs Di- surfboards, gear, cool books and brands
vine Earth cafe (p83). such as Obey and Wegener. Started by two
savvy surfer dudes, the shop stocks goods
7 Shopping noted for their individuality and high quali-
ty. There’s also a small cafe-bar and a patio.
Seminyak has it all: designer boutiques (Bali
has a thriving fashion industry), retro-chic oBamboo Blonde CLOtHing
stores, slick galleries, wholesale emporiums (%0361-731864; www .bambooblonde .com; Jl Kayu
Kuta & SeminyaK
and family-run workshops. Aya 61; h10am-10pm) Shop for frilly, sporty or
The best shopping starts on Jl Raya Sem- sexy frocks and formal wear at this cheery
inyak at Bintang Supermarket and runs designer boutique (one of 11 island-wide).
north through Jl Basangkasa. The retail All goods are designed and made in Bali.
Kuta & SeminyaK SeminyAK
strip branches off into Jl Kayu Aya and Jl oMilo’s
Kayu Jati while continuing north on Jl Raya CLOtHing
Kerobokan into Kerobokan. Try not to step (%0361-822 2008; www .milos-bali .com; Jl Kayu
Kuta & SeminyaK enteRtAinment
into one of the yawning pavement caverns. Aya 992; h10am-8pm) The legendary local de-
signer of silk finery has a lavish shop in the
Seminyak Village mALL heart of designer row. Look for batik-bear-
(%0361-738097; www .seminyakvillage .com; Jl ing, eye-popping orchid patterns.
Kayu Jati 8; h9am-10pm; W) Rice fields just
a few years ago, this new air-con mall de- oSamsara CLOtHing
serves a compliment for being discreetly (www .samsaraboutique .com; Jl Raya Seminyak;
placed back from the street. The selection of h10am-10pm) Balinese-made textiles using
shops is refreshingly local, with some nota- global inspiration. This appealing shop dis-
ble names such as Lily Jean on the three lev- plays hand-painted batik used in a range of
els. The small carts leased to up-and-coming exquisite casual wear by designer Coretta
Balinese designers is a nice touch. Hutson.
Sandio SHOeS oPrisoners of
(%0361-737693; www .facebook .com/sandio .bali; Jl St Petersburg FASHiOn & ACCeSSORieS
Basangkasa; h10am-8pm) Shoes and sandals, (%0361-736653; Jl Kaya Aya 42B; h10am-10pm)
from formal to casual, at great prices. Re- Some of Bali’s hottest young designers are
place the one you lost riding your scooter. behind this eclectic and ever-evolving hip
collection of women’s wear and accessories.
Periplus Bookshop BOOKS
(%0361-736851; Jl Kayu Aya, Seminyak Sq; h8am- Thaikila CLOtHing
10pm) A large outlet of the island-wide chain (%0361-731130; www .blue-glue .com; Jl Kayu Aya;
of lavishly fitted bookshops. In addition to h9am-9pm) ‘The dream bikini of all women’
design books numerous enough to have is the motto of this local brand that makes a
you fitting out even your garage with ‘Bali big statement with its tiny wear. The swim-
Style’, it stocks bestsellers, magazines and wear is French-designed and made right in
newspapers. Bali. If you need something stylish for the
beach, come here.
Cotton Line by St Isador teXtiLeS
(%0361-738836; Jl Kaya Aya 44; h9am-8pm) Lily Jean CLOtHing
The workshops upstairs spew forth lovely (%0811 398 272; www .lily-jean .com; Jl Kayu Jati
bed linens, pillows and other items made of 8, Seminyak village, 1st fl; h10am-10pm) Sell-
fabrics imported from across Asia. ing mostly Bali-made items, this designer
shop combines international allure with
local motifs.

87
Uma & Leopold CLOtHing Divine Diva CLOtHing
(%0361-737697; www .umaandleopold .com; Jl Kayu (%0361-732393; www .divinedivabali .com; Jl Kayu
Aya 77X) Luxe clothes and little frilly things to Aya 1A; h9am-7pm) A simple shop filled
put on before slipping off… Designed in Bali with Bali-made breezy styles for larger fig-
by a French couple. ures. You can custom order from the on-site
tailors.
Paul Ropp CLOtHing
(%0361-735613; www .paulropp .com; Jl Kayu Aya; Arts & Crafts
h9am-9pm) The main shop of one of Bali’s oIndivie ARtS & CRAFtS
premier high-end fashion designers for men (%0361-730927; www .indivie .com; Jl Raya Sem-
and women. Most goods are made in the inyak, made’s Warung; h9am-9pm) The works of
hills above Denpasar. And what goods they young designers based in Bali are showcased Kuta & SeminyaK
are: rich silks and cottons, vivid to the point at this intriguing and glossy boutique.
of gaudy, with hints of Ropp’s roots in the Kuta & SeminyaK SeminyAK
tie-dyed 1960s. oTheatre Art Gallery ARtS & CRAFtS
(Jl Raya Seminyak; h9am-8pm) Specialises in
Lucy’s Batik teXtiLeS, CLOtHing vintage and reproduction wayang puppets
(%0361-736098; www .lucysbatikbali .com; Jl Raya used in traditional Balinese theatre. Just
Basangkasa 88; h9 .30am-9pm) Great for both looking at the animated faces peering back
men and women, Lucy’s is a good spot to at you is a delight.
shop for the finest batik. Shirts, dresses,
Kuta & SeminyaK SHOPPing
sarongs and bags are mostly handwoven or oAshitaba ARtS & CRAFtS
hand-painted. It also sells material by the (%0361-737054; Jl Raya Seminyak 6; h9am-
metre. 9pm) Tenganan, the Aga village of east Bali,
produces the intricate and beautiful rattan
Biasa CLOtHing items sold here. Containers, bowls, purses
(%0361-730766; www .biasagroup .com; Jl Raya and more (from 50,000Rp) display the very
Seminyak 36; h9am-9pm) This is Bali-based fine weaving.
designer Susanna Perini’s premier shop.
Her line of elegant tropical wear for men Kody & Ko ARt
and women combines cottons, silks and (%0361-737359; www .kodyandko .com; Jl Kayu
embroidery. Jati 4A; h9am-9pm) The polychromatic crit-
ters in the window set the tone for this
Niconico CLOtHing vibrant shop of art and decorator items.
(%0361-738875; www .niconicoswimwear .com; Jl There’s a large attached gallery with regular
Kayu Aya; h9am-9pm) German designer Nico exhibitions.
Genge has a line of intimate clothing, resort
wear and swimwear that eschews glitz for a Kendra Gallery ARt
slightly more subtle look. Among his many (%0361-736628; www .kendragallery .com; Ji Dru-
Seminyak shops this one has both the full padi 88B; h10am-7pm) This high-end gallery
collection and an art gallery upstairs. regularly has shows that are thoughtfully
and creatively curated. It has regular special
Duzty CLOtHing events too.
(Jl Raya Seminyak 67; h9am-10pm) Casual wear
designed by Rahsun, an up-and-coming Homewares
Balinese talent. Features edgy rock-and-roll oSouq HOmeWAReS
and counterculture themes. (%0822 3780 1817; www .souqstore .co; Jl Ba-
sangkasa 10; h8 .30am-8pm) The Middle East
Quarzia Boutique CLOtHing
(%0361-736644; Jl Kayu Aya; h10am-9pm) meets Asia at this glossy high-concept store
Casual cotton clothes designed with colour with Bali-designed housewares and cloth-
and flair; worn with attitude and authority. ing. It has a small cafe with healthy break-
fast and lunch choices plus good coffee and
Lulu Yasmine CLOtHing cold-pressed juices.
(%0361-736763; www .luluyasmine .com; Jl Kayu White Peacock
HOmeWAReS
Aya; h9am-10pm) Designer Luiza Chang gets (%0361-733238; Jl Kayu Jati 1; h9am-8pm)
inspiration for her elegant line of women’s Styled like a country cottage, this is the place
clothes from her worldwide travels.
for cute cushions, throw rugs, table linens
and more.

88
Samantha Robinson HOmeWAReS resorts mix with villa developments. One
(%0361-737295; www .samantharobinson .com . notable landmark is the notorious Kerobo-
au; Jl Kayu Jati 2; h9am-8pm) The eponymous kan jail.
Sydney porcelain designer offers her full
range of colourful and artful housewares at r Beaches
this small boutique. Kerobokan Beach BeACH
Domicil HOmeWAReS Backed by flash resorts and trendy clubs,
(%0818 0569 8417; www .domicil-living .com; Jl Kerobokan’s beach is surprisingly quiet. A
Raya Seminyak 56; h10am-10pm) Facade meets lack of access keeps away crowds because all
merchandise: everything is designed with the roads running west from Jl Petitenget
colonial flair at this appealing housewares dead-end in developments. You can reach
shop. the sand from Seminyak Beach in the south
or by walking down from Batubelig Beach.
8 Information There are beach vendors and loungers just
north of the W Bali hotel.
Kuta & SeminyaK
DANGERS & ANNOYANCES The most direct access, however, is by
Seminyak is generally more hassle-free than waltzing through the Potato Head (p92)
Kuta and Legian . But it’s worth reading up on the beach club or the W Bali hotel. The surf is
warnings, especially those regarding surf and more thunderous here than to the south, so
water pollution . be careful when swimming.
Kuta & SeminyaK KeROBOK An
MEDICAL SERVICES Batubelig Beach BeACH
Kuta & SeminyaK inFORmAtiOn
Kimia Farma (%0361-916 6509; Jl Raya The sand narrows here but there are some
Kerobokan 140; h24hr) Located at a major good places for a drink, both grand and sim-
crossroads, this outlet of Bali’s best chain of
pharmacies has a full range of prescription ple. Easily reached via Jl Batubelig, this is a
medications . good place to start a walk along the curving
sands northwest to popular beaches as far
MONEY as Echo Beach.
Atms can be found along all the main roads . About 500m north, a river and lagoon
Central Kuta Money Exchange (www .cen- flow into the ocean, sometimes up to 1m
tralkutabali .com; Jl Kaayu Aya, Seminyak deep – after rains it may be much deeper. In
Sq; h8 .30am-9 .30pm) Reliable currency this case, take the little footbridge over the
exchange . lagoon to La Laguna (p99) bar, where you
POST can call a taxi.
Post Office (%0361-761592; Jl Raya Seminyak 1 Sights
17, Bintang Supermarket; h8am-8pm) Conven-
ient and friendly . Kerobokan Jail LAnDmARK
(Jl gunung tangkuban Perahu) The notorious
8 Getting There & Away Kerobokan jail is home to prisoners both
infamous and unknown.
the Kura-Kura tourist bus (p389) has a route
linking Seminyak with umalas in the north and 2 Activities
Kuta in the south, however it runs infrequently .
metered taxis are easily hailed . A trip from the oSundari Day Spa SPA
airport with the airport taxi cartel costs about (%0361-735073; www .sundari-dayspa .com; Jl
130,000Rp; a regular taxi to the airport, about Petitenget 7; massages from 250,000Rp; h10am-
80,000Rp. You can beat the traffic, save the 10pm) This much-recommended spa strives
ozone and have a good stroll by walking along to offer the services of a five-star resort with-
the beach; Legian is only about 15 minutes away . out the high prices. The massage oils and
Blue Bird (p392) has the most reliable service . other potions are organic, and there’s a full
menu of therapies and treatments on offer.
Kerobokan Jiwa Bikram yOgA
(%0361-841 3689; www .jiwabikram .com; Jl Pe-
Continuing seamlessly north from Sem- titenget 78; classes from 180,000Rp; h9am-8pm)
inyak, Kerobokan combines some of Ba- In a convenient location, this no-frills place
li’s best restaurants and shopping, lavish offers several different types of yoga, includ-
lifestyles and still more beach. Glossy new ing bikram, hot flow and yin.

89
Amo Beauty Spa SPA Taman Ayu Cottage HOteL $$
(%0361-473 7943; www .amospa .com; Jl Petitenget (%0361-473 0111; www .thetamanayu .com; Jl
100X; massages from 220,000Rp; h9am-9pm) Petitenget; r incl breakfast 375,000-700,000Rp;
With some of Asia’s top models lounging aiWs) This great-value hotel has a fab-
about it feels like you’ve stumbled into a ulous location. Most of the 52 rooms are
Vogue shoot. In addition to massages, ser- in two-storey blocks around a pool shaded
vices range from haircare to pedicures and by mature trees. Everything is a bit frayed
unisex waxing. Book ahead. around the edges, but all is forgotten when
the bill comes. Family rooms and villas are
4 Sleeping available.
Bali’s blight of generic midrange chain ho- oBuah Bali Villas viLLA $$$ Kuta & SeminyaK
tels has also infected Kerobokan. Otherwise (%0361-847 6626; www .thebuahbali .com; Jl Pe-
you’ll find good-value choices amid syba- titenget, gang Cempaka; villa from 2,600,000Rp; Kuta & SeminyaK KeROBOK
ritic villa hotels plus some excellent beach aWs) This small development has only Kuta & SeminyaK SLeePingAn
resorts. seven villas, which range in size from one to
M Boutique Hostel HOSteL $ two bedrooms. Like the many other nearby
(%0361-473 4142; www .mboutiquehostel .com; Jl villa hotels, each unit has a private pool in a
Petitenget 8; dm 250,000-300,000Rp; aiWs) walled compound and a nice open-air living
A contemporary choice for flashpackers, M area. The location is superb: hot spots such
Boutique’s beds are capsule dorms, which as Biku (p90) and Potato Head (p92) are a
come with the benefit of privacy. Each has five-minute walk.
shutter blinds, a drop-down chest table, oKatamana BOutiQue HOteL $$$
a reading light and an electrical plug. The (%0361-302 9999; www .katamama .com; Jl Pe-
neatly trimmed lawn and small plunge pool titenget 51; aWs) The same architectural
add charm. Extras include free laundry. derring-do that makes Potato Head much
Villa Bunga HOteL $ copied is on display at the club’s hotel. How-
(%0361-473 1666; www .villabunga .com; Jl Pe- ever here the details are lavish and artful.
titenget 18X; r 310,000-500,000Rp, apt from Designed by Indonesian Andra Martin, it
400,000Rp; aWs) An excellent deal in has 58 suites in a confection of Javanese
the heart of Kerobokan, this 13-room hotel bricks, Balinese stone and other indigenous
has rooms set in two-storey blocks around materials. There are huge windows, lav-
a small pool. Rooms are also small but are ish seating areas and private terraces and
modern and have fridges. balconies.
Brown Feather gueStHOuSe $$ oAlila Seminyak ReSORt $$$
(%0361-302 1888; www .alilahotels .com; Jl taman
(%0361-473 2165; www .brownfeather .com; Jl Batu ganesha 9; r from 4,000,000Rp; aWs) This
Belig 100; r 630,000-900,000Rp; aWs) On the sprawling resort (new in 2016) has a prime
main road, but backing on to rice paddies, position right at the junction of Seminyak
this small hotel exudes a Dutch-Javanese and Kerobokan beaches (and nightlife). A
colonial charm. Rooms mix simplicity with whopping 240 rooms come in various fla-
old-world character, such as wooden writing vours. The cheapest have garden views, but
desks and washbasins made from old Singer as you rise up through the rate card you get
sewing machines. For rice-field views, go for beach views and more room. The colour
room 205 or 206. There’s a small, attractive scheme is a sandy palette of beige and tan.
pool and free bicycle rental, too.
W Bali – Seminyak ReSORt $$$
Grand Balisani Suites HOteL $$ (%0361-473 8106; www .wretreatbali .com; Jl
(%0361-473 0550; www .balisanisuites .com; Jl Petitenget; r incl breakfast from 4,500,000Rp;
Batubelig; r uS$85-220; aWs) Location! aiWs) Like many W hotels, the usual
This elaborately carved complex is right on too-cute-for-comfort vibe is at work here
popular Batubelig Beach. The 96 rooms are (how ‘bout an ‘extreme wow’ suite?), but the
large and have standard teak furniture plus location on a wave-tossed stretch of sand
terraces (some also have great views). Wi-fi and the views are hard to quibble with. Styl-
is limited to public areas. ish, hip bars, restaurants and smiling staff

90
abound. The pricey rooms all have balco- (rice-noodle soup) and grilled meats cooked
nies, but not all have ocean views. on aromatic coconut wood. Cocktails in-
The Woobar is a great spot for a sun- clude the ‘bang bang’ martini, a chilled bit
downer; happy-hour two-for-one cocktails of boozy splendour. Book ahead.
come with a free pizza (from 4pm to 6pm).
Biku FuSiOn $$
(%0361-857 0888; www .bikubali .com; Jl Petitenget
5 Eating 888; meals 50,000-140,000Rp; h8am-11pm;
Kerobokan boasts some of Bali’s best restau- Wc) Housed in a 150-year-old teak joglo
rants, whether budget or top end. (traditional Javanese house), wildly popular
Biku retains the timeless vibe of its prede-

5 Jl Petitenget cessor. The menu combines Indonesian and
other Asian with Western influences in a
oWarung Eny BALineSe $ cuisine Biku calls ‘Asian comfort food’. The
(%0361-473 6892; www .warungeny .blogspot .com; burgers get raves as do the desserts. Be sure
Jl Petitenget 97; mains from 35,000Rp; h8am- to book ahead. There’s a good kids menu.
Kuta & SeminyaK
11pm) The eponymous Eny cooks everything It’s also popular for high tea (from 11am
herself at this tiny open-front warung nearly to 5pm; 110,000Rp per person). It can be
hidden behind various potted plants. Look served Asian-style – with samosa, spring
Kuta & SeminyaK KeROB
for the roadside sign that captures the vibe: rolls etc, and green or oolong tea – or tradi-
‘The love cooking’. The seafood, such as large tional – with cucumber sandwiches etc.
Kuta & SeminyaK e Ating OK An
prawns smothered in garlic, is delicious and
most ingredients are organic. Ask about Cafe Degan ASiAn $$
Eny’s excellent cooking classes. (%0361-744 8622; www .facebook .com/cafedegan;
Jl Petitenget 9; meals 90,000-180,000Rp; hnoon-
Pasar Kerobokan mARKet $ 11pm) The menu at this upscale warung veers
(Fruit market; cnr Jl Raya Kerobokan & Jl gunung towards Indonesian but features dishes
tangkuban Perahu; h7am-10pm) Bali’s numer- from the region you don’t often find, such as
ous climate zones (hot and humid near the daging sambal hijau (spicy beef with green
ocean, cool and dry up the volcano slopes) chillies). A small bakery produces an array
mean that pretty much any fruit or veg- of delectable desserts. The drinks list in-
etable can be grown within the island’s cludes some interesting choices made with
small confines. Vendors sell them all here, coconut water.
including unfamiliar fruits such as nubby
mangosteens. A string of stalls prepare as- Merah Putih inDOneSiAn $$
sorted tasty snacks and there’s a small night (%0361-846 5950; www .merahputihbali .com;
market. Jl Petitenget 100X; mains 80,000-200,000Rp;
hnoon-3pm & 6-11pm) Merah Putih means
Gourmet Cafe CAFe $ ‘red and white’, which are the colours of the
(%0361-847 5115; www .balicateringcompany .com; Indonesian flag. That’s perfect for this excel-
Jl Petitenget 77A; snacks from 30,000Rp; h8am- lent restaurant, which celebrates food from
9pm; a) Like a gem store of treats, this across the archipelago. The short menu is di-
upscale deli-cafe run by the Bali Catering vided between traditional and modern – the
Company serves an array of fanciful little latter combining Indo flavours with diverse
delights. Many spend all day battling the foods. The soaring dining room has a hip
temptation of the mango ice cream; others style and the service is excellent.
succumb to the croissants from the in-house
bakery. oSardine SeAFOOD $$$
(%0811 397 8111; www .sardinebali .com; Jl Pe-
oSaigon Street vietnAmeSe $$ titenget 21; meals uS$20-50; h11 .30am-4pm &
(%0361-897 4007; www .saigonstreetbali .com; 6-11pm; W) Seafood fresh from the famous
Jl Petitenget 77; mains 50,000-175,000Rp; Jimbaran market is the star at this elegant
h11 .30am-11pm; W) Modern, vibrant and yet intimate, casual yet stylish restaurant.
packed, this Vietnamese restaurant lures in It’s in a beautiful bamboo pavilion, with
the buzzing masses with its swanky neon open-air tables overlooking a private rice
decor. Creative Vietnamese dishes include field patrolled by Sardine’s own flock of
peppery betel leaves filled with slow-cooked ducks. The inventive bar is a must and stays
octopus, and there’s an impressive rice- open until 1am. The menu changes to reflect
paper roll selection, along with curries, pho what’s fresh. Booking is vital.

91
Sarong FuSiOn $$$ such as rich Oreo, surprising and delicious
(%0361-473 7809; www .sarongbali .com; Jl Pe- tamarind and kamangi (lemon basil). The
titenget 19X; mains 120,000-180,000Rp; h6 .30- classics are here as well. It gets mobbed in
10 .45pm; W) Sarong is an elegant affair by the afternoons.
the owners of Seminyak’s excellent Mama
San (p83). The cuisine spans Asia, and its Warung Sobat SeAFOOD $
small plates are popular with those wishing (%0361-731256; Jl Pengubengan Kauh 27; mains
to pace an evening and enjoy the commodi- 37,000-100,000Rp; h11am-10 .30pm; W) So-
ous bar. No children allowed. Dine outside bat is set in a sort of bungalow-style large
under the stars. open-sided brick restaurant. Much big-
ger than the original on Jl Batu Belig, this
Barbacoa BRAZiLiAn $$$ old-fashioned restaurant excels at fresh Kuta & SeminyaK
(%0361-739235; www .barbacoabali .com; Jl Balinese seafood with an Italian accent (lots Kuta & SeminyaK KeROB
Petitenget 14; mains 110,000-250,000Rp; of garlic!). Prices are extraordinary, as you
hnoon-midnight; W) Barbacoa is an impres- can see from the value-minded expats who Kuta & SeminyaK e Ating OK An
sive space with soaring timber ceilings, pack the place every night.
colourful mosaic-tiled floors and rice-field
views (for now). The food is all about grilled oSangsaka inDOneSiAn $$
meats; the restaurant’s walls are lined with (%0812 3695 9895; www .sangsakabali .com; Jl
firewood to cook up its menu of Latin Amer- Pangkung Sari 100; mains 80,000-180,000Rp;
ican dishes. h6pm-midnight tue-Sun) On a Kerobokan
backstreet, this casual restaurant serves
well-nuanced versions of Indonesian dishes
5 Elsewhere in Kerobokan drawn from across the archipelago. Many

Gusto Gelato & Coffee geLAteRiA $ are cooked over various types of charcoal,
(%0361-552 2190; www .gusto-gelateria .com; Jl which vary depending on the origin of the
Raya mertanadi 46; gelato from 22,000Rp; h10am- dish. The dining area is done up in the usual
10pm; aW) Bali’s best gelato is made fresh vintage-wood motif, with just a touch more
throughout the day, with unique flavours polish than usual. It has a good bar.



KEROBOKAN’S WARUNGS
Although seemingly upscale, Kerobokan is blessed with many a fine place for a truly
authentic local meal. Top choices include the following:
Warung Sulawesi (Jl Petitenget; meals from 35,000Rp; h7am-8pm) Here you’ll find a
table in a quiet family compound and enjoy fresh Balinese and Indonesian food served
in classic warung style. Choose rice, then pick from a captivating array of dishes that are
always at their peak at noon. The long beans – yum!
Warung Kolega (Jl Petitenget 98A; meals from 25,000Rp; h9am-7 .30pm mon-Sat) A Ja-
vanese halal classic. Choose your rice (we prefer the fragrant yellow), then pick from a
delectable array that includes tempeh in sweet chilli sauce, sambal terung (spicy egg-
plant), ikan sambal (spicy grilled fish) and other daily specials. Most of the labels are in
English.
Sari Kembar (%0361-847 6021; Jl teuku umar Barat/Jl marlboro 99; mains from 15,000Rp;
h8am-10pm) One of Bali’s best places for babi guling (spit-roast pig stuffed with chilli,
turmeric, garlic and ginger) is back off this busy street about 1.5km east of the junction
with Jl Raya Kerobokan. Besides the succulent marinated pork, there’s melt-in-your-
mouth crackling, duck stuffed with cassava leaves, sausage and more. It’s dead simple
and amazingly good.
Blambangan Warung Syariah (Jl gunung Salak; mains from 15,000Rp; h24hr) The spicy
foods of East Java are served around the clock at this simple roadside warung near some
interesting shops. The chicken is free range and stars in the ayam gulai, a sort of chicken
curry. When in doubt, have the nasi campur (rice with a choice of side dishes) and try a
bit of everything.

92
Naughty Nuri’s inDOneSiAn $$ Pantai BAR
(%0361-847 6783; www .naughtynurisseminyak . (Batubelig Beach; h9am-9pm) The authorities
com; Jl mertanadi 62; mains from 60,000Rp; regularly bulldoze away the impromptu
h11am-10pm) Inspired by the overhyped drinking shacks that appear along this invit-
Ubud original, this Nuri’s works to promote ing stretch of beach just north of the W Bali
the concept. Relocated from Jl Batubelig, hotel. But so far Pantai has had more lives
the current location has a much larger out- than a cat – it stubbornly keeps offering up
door component. Remarkably, it has become cheap drinks, mismatched tables and splen-
a must-see stop for visitors from across In- did surf and sunset views.
donesia, who tuck into the not-especially
tender pork ribs. The original’s trademark 7 Shopping
kick-ass martinis remain. You’ll find boutiques interspersed with the
Watercress CAFe $$ trendy restaurants on Jl Petitenget. Jl Raya
(%0851 0280 8030; www .watercressbali .com; Jl Kerobokan, extending north from Jl Sun-
Batubelig 21A; mains from 65,000Rp; h7 .30am- set, has interesting shops primarily selling
Kuta & SeminyaK
11pm; pW) A hit with the hipster set, this decorator items and housewares. Wander Jl
leafy roadside cafe does a roaring trade. As Raya Mertanadi for an ever-changing line-
well as hearty breakfasts and gourmet burg- up of homewares shops, many of them more
ers, it features healthy mains and salads. Ex- factory than showroom.
cellent coffee, beer on tap and cocktails are oPurpa Fine Art Gallery ARt
Kuta & SeminyaK KeROBOK An
other reasons to stop by. The small garden (%0819 9940 8804; www .purpagallerybali .com; Jl
area out front is nice. mertanadi 22; h10am-6pm tue-Sat) This long-
L’Assiette FRenCH $$ time gallery has shown some of Bali’s very
(%0361-735840; Jl Raya mertanadi 29; meals best artists going back to the most notable
Kuta & SeminyaK DRinKing & nigHtLiFe
50,000-100,000Rp; h10am-11pm mon-Sat; W) names of the 1930s such as Spies, Snell and
The huge quiet garden behind this airy cafe Lempad. It has regular special exhibits.
is the perfect place to enjoy a salade niçoise oBathe BeAuty, HOmeWAReS
or any of the other fresh and tasty, classic (%0811 388 640; www .bathestore .com; Jl Batu
French-cafe fare served here. Perhaps a Belig 88; h7am-10pm) Double-down on your
steak frites or a terrine will strike your fan- villa’s romance with handmade candles, air
cy. If not, there are Asian-accented dishes diffusers, aromatherapy oils, bath salts and
too. It shares space with Pourquoi Pas an- homewares that evoke the feel of a 19th-cen-
tique shop.
tury French dispensary. It’s in a cluster of
6 Drinking & Nightlife upscale boutiques.
Some of Kerobokan’s trendier restaurants Tulola JeWeLLeRy
have stylish bar areas that stay open late. (%0361-473 0261; www .shoptulola .com; Jl Pe-
titenget; h10am-8pm) This is the jewellery
oPotato Head CLuB shop of noted Balinese-American designer
(%0361-473 7979; www .ptthead .com; Jl Petitenget; Sri Luce Rusna. High-end items are created
h11am-2am; W) Bali’s highest-profile beach in Bali and displayed in this exquisite bou-
club is one of the best. Wander up off the tique.
sand or follow a long drive off Jl Petitenget
and you’ll find much to amuse, from an en- Ayun Tailor CLOtHing
ticing pool to a swanky restaurant, plus lots (%0821 8996 5056; Jl Batubelig; h10am-6pm)
of lounges and patches of lawn for chillin’ Ayun is an excellent tailor. Buy batik or oth-
the night away under the stars. er fabric at one of Bali’s many textile empori-
ums and she’ll turn it into a frock for a man,
Mirror CLuB woman or child. Bring along a shirt you love
(%0811 399 3010; www .facebook .com/mirrorba- and she can copy it. Great rates.
li; Jl Petitenget 106; h11pm-4am Wed-Sat) This
newish club is big with south Bali expats, Mercredi HOmeWAReS
who may own those designer shops you (%0812 4634 0518; Jl Petitenget; h9am-7pm)
were in a few hours before. The interior is Fashionable cushions to turn your tired sofa
sort of like a cathedral out of Harry Potter, into a spry fashion statement are but some
albeit with an unholy amount of lighting of the goods on sale in this stylish shop of
effects. Mainstream electronica blares forth. well-designed housewares.

93
SHOPPING SAFARI
East of Seminyak and Kerobokan, a series of streets is lined with all manner of interest-
ing shops selling and manufacturing housewares, baubles, fabric and other intriguing
items. Head east of Kerobokan jail for about 2km on Jl Gunung Tangkuban Perahu and
then turn south on – get this – a street with the same name.
This particular jalan has been called ‘the street of amazement’ by a shopaholic friend;
look for an array of stores with vintage seaman’s gear and primitive art. South, it be-
comes Jl Gunung Athena, with housewares and art, and then heads east as Jl Kunti II
where it ends at the busy intersection with Jl Sunset and Jl Kunti.
Yoga Batik (Jl gunung Athena; h9am-6pm) A huge variety of the iconic Indonesian fabric. Kuta & SeminyaK
Rainbow Tulungagung (Jl gunung Athena; h9am-6pm) Handicrafts made from marble
and stone. The soap dispensers are easily carried home. Kuta & SeminyaK SHOPPing
My Basket Bali (%0361-994 3683; Jl gunung Athena 39B; h9am-6pm) If it can be woven
from fibre, it’s here. Baskets that look as good as they’re practical.
Victory Art (%0817 569 631; Jl gunung tangkuban Perahu; h9am-6pm) As much spec-
tacle as store, this corner place is jammed with intriguing works of new art. All manner
of primitive faces gaze out from the array of merchandise that’s inspired by indigenous
cultures from across Indonesia.
Kuta & SeminyaK KeROBOK An
Kevala Home HOmeWAReS Hobo HOmeWAReS
(%0361-473 5869; www .kevalaceramics .com; Jl (%0361-733369; www .thehobostore .com; Jl Raya
Batubelig; h10am-8pm) Designed and made Kerobokan 105; h9am-8pm) Elegance mixes
in Bali, the top-end ceramics here are exqui- with quirky at this enticing shop filled with
site examples of the art. gifts and housewares, most of which can slip
right into your carry-on bag.
Geneva Handicraft Centre ARtS & CRAFtS
(%0361-733582; www .genevahandicraft .com; Jl Namu CLOtHing
Raya Kerobokan 100; h9am-8pm) Tourist vans (%0361-279 7524; www .namustore .com; Jl Pe-
flock to the big space out front of this mul- titenget 23X; h9 .30am-8pm) Designer Paola
tifloor emporium of Indonesian handicraft. Zancanaro creates comfy and casual resort
And with good reason, quality is good and wear for men and women that doesn’t take a
prices are fair and fixed. holiday from style. The fabrics are lusciously
tactile; many are hand-painted silk.
Tribali JeWeLLeRy
(%0818 0541 5453; Jl Petitenget 12B; h10am- JJ Bali Button ARtS & CRAFtS
8pm) Rustic jewellery and accessories with a (Jl gunung tangkuban Perahu; h9am-5pm) Zil-
luxe hippy vibe are shown in earthy display lions of beads and buttons made from shells,
cases. plastic, metal and more are displayed in
what at first looks like a candy store. Elab-
Carga HOmeWAReS orately carved wooden buttons cost 800Rp.
(%0361-847 8180; Jl Petitenget 886; h9am-9pm) Kids may have to be bribed to leave.
This beautiful shop is set back from the ca-
cophony of Jl Petitenget in a vintage house You Like Lamp HOmeWAReS
shaded by palm trees. The housewares are (%0361-733755; Jl Raya mertanadi; h9am-7pm)
sourced across Indonesia and range from Why yes, we do. All manner of endearing lit-
elegant to whimsical. tle paper lamps – many good for tea lights –
are sold here cheap by the bagful. Don’t see
Pourquoi Pas AntiQueS what you want? The staff working away on
(Jl Raya mertanadi; h9am-7pm) Owned by the the floor will rustle it up immediately.
French family behind the cafe L’Assiette
(p92), this adjoining antique store is filled Nôblis HOmeWAReS
with treasures from across the archipelago (%0813 3767 2012; Jl Raya mertanadi 54; h9am-
and Southeast Asia. 7pm) Feel like royalty here with regal bits of
decor from around the globe. Has its own
line of flamboyant furniture.

94
8 Information To stay current with the constant flurry
Central Kuta Money Exchange (www .central- of new openings, check out www.canggu
kutabali .com; Jl Raya Kerobokan 51; h8 .30am- guide.com.
9pm) Reliable currency exchange .
ChannelOne (%0878 6204 3224; www .chan- Umalas
nel1 .biz; Jl Sunset 100X) Offers full immigration Expat villas and Balinese compounds mix
services, visa renewals and more .
with rice fields north of Kerobokan. Look for
8 Getting There & Away surprises such as a cute warung or a delight-
fully oddball shop on the back roads.
Although the beach may seem tantalisingly
close, few roads or gang actually reach the sand T Tours
from the east . note also that Jl Raya Kerobokan
can come to a fume-filled stop for extended oBali Bike Hire CyCLing
periods . (%0361-202 0054; www .balibikehire .com; Jl Raya
the Kura-Kura tourist bus (p389) has a route Semer 61; rental per day from 60,000Rp) Run by
Kuta & SeminyaK
linking Seminyak with umalas in the north and people passionate about bikes, here you can
Kuta in the south, however it runs infrequently . choose from a variety of top-quality rides. It
metered taxis are easily hailed . A trip from the offers plenty of advice for navigating Bali’s
airport with the airport taxi cartel costs about often tortuous roads, and leads various ex-
160,000Rp; a regular taxi to the airport, about cellent guided tours by bike.
100,000Rp. You can beat the traffic, save the
ozone and have a good stroll by walking along 5 Eating
Kuta & SeminyaK CAnggu & AR
the beach; Legian is only about 15 minutes away .
Blue Bird (p392) has the most reliable service . Go exploring the small roads east of Jl Raya
Kerobokan and you’ll discover lots of inter-
Kuta & SeminyaK inFORmAtiOnOunD
8 Getting Around esting warungs serving a variety of cuisines.
Bali Bike Rental (%0361-300 3533; www . oNook inteRnAtiOnAL $$
balibikerental .com; Jl Raya Kerobokan 71; (%0813 3806 0060; www .facebook .com/nookbali;
rental per day from uS$9; h10am-10pm) Jl umalas i; mains 40,000-160,000Rp; h8am-
An alternative to the thousands of freelance 11pm; W) Sublimely positioned among the
motorbike renters in Bali . For the extra money, rice fields, this casual, open-air cafe is popu-
you get a motorbike in prime shape along with
extras such as extra-clean helmets, roadside lar for its creative takes on Asian and West-
assistance and more . Faster, more powerful ern fare. It has a modern vibe mixed with
motorcycles are also available . tropical flavours, plus good breakfasts and
burgers. Get a table on the back wooden
terrace.
Canggu & Around Bali Buda CAFe $$
The Canggu region, north and west of Ker- (%0361-844 5935; www .balibuda .com; Jl Banjar
obokan, is Bali’s fastest-growing area. Much Anyar 24; mains from 35,000Rp; h8am-10pm;
of the growth is centred along the coast, aWv) This appealing outlet of the Ubud
anchored by the endless swathe of beach, original has all the excellent baked goods
which, despite rampant development, re- and organic groceries you’d expect. The
mains fairly uncrowded. Kerobokan morphs small cafe serves healthy juices and smooth-
into Umalas inland and Canggu to the west, ies plus an array of mostly vegetarian fare.
while neighbouring Echo Beach is a big con- Stop in for breakfast on your way to visit
struction site. Tanah Lot (sane people visit the temple be-
Cloistered villas lure expats who whisk fore noon).
past the remaining rice farmers on motor-
bikes or in air-con comfort. Traffic may be 7 Shopping
the ultimate commoner’s revenge: road Reza Art 2 AntiQueS
building is a decade behind settlement. (%0821 9797 4309; Jl mertasari 99; h10am-
Amid this maze of too-narrow lanes you’ll 6pm) Oodles of lamps in many sizes mix
find creative cafes, trendy restaurants and with nautical antiques and junk (think old
appealing shops. Follow the sounds of the ship telegraphs and rudder wheels) in this
surf to great beaches such as the one at Batu shop that’s more treasure hunt than retail
Bolong. establishment.

95
Canggu & Echo Beach # e 0 0 0.5 miles
1 km
A B C D
Jl Pantai Pererenan 37 Jl Pantai Batu Bolong

1 ÿ 32 # ú # û Jl Raya Semat 1
# 22
# ú 26
19 ÿ Jl Pantai Batu Mejan 33 # ú # ú # ú 41
#
34
#4 Jl Subak Catur ÿ # û 35
# 29
Ù
ÿ
42 # 16 10 43 # ú
# û 14 # ÿ È # þ Jl Raya Pantai Berawa
ÿ
#
ÿ
24 # ú # 12 Nelayan Ricefield #
ÿ
Ù 13 36 Shortcut 39 9
# 2
# ú # Kuta & SeminyaK
ü
Jl 11 # 27 # ú
ÿ
ÿ
#
2 15 ÿ # CANGGU 2 Kuta & SeminyaK CAnggu &
21
30 ú 28 # ú
# # Þ 6
Batu Bolong Ù Ù 44 # þ # ú 25 Kuta & SeminyaK SHOPPing AROunD
# #
Beach 1
Ù
# 3
# 8
# 20 Ø
ÿ
# Þ 7 Jl Pantai Berawa
# 5
Ù
23 # ú 31
Teluk ÿ
#
3 Kuta 38 # û 3
# 17
ÿ
# 18
ÿ
444
# û 40
A B C D
444
Canggu & Echo Beach
æ Top Sights ú Eating
1 Batu Bolong Beach................................. B2 24 Beach House............................................A2
Betelnut Cafe................................. (see 10)

æ Sights 25 Bungalow..................................................D2
Berawa Beach ................................ (see 17) 26 Deus Ex Machina..................................... B1
2 Echo Beach.............................................. A2 Dian Cafe........................................(see 24)
3 Nelayan Beach ........................................ B2 27 Green Ginger............................................D2
4 Pererenan Beach.....................................A1 28 Indotopia ..................................................D2
5 Prancak Beach........................................ C3 29 Monsieur Spoon ...................................... B1
6 Pura Batumejan...................................... B2 30 Old Man's..................................................B2
7 Pura Dalem Prancak...............................C3 31 One Eyed Jack .........................................C3
32 Salumeria Tanah Bara............................ B1

Ø Activities, Courses & Tours 33 Shady Shack ............................................ B1
8 Canggu Club............................................ D2 34 Warung Bu Mi .......................................... B1
35 Warung Goûthé ....................................... D1

ÿ Sleeping 36 Warung Varuna........................................B2
9 Big Brother Surf Inn................................D2
10 Calmtree Bungalows...............................B1 û Drinking & Nightlife
11 Canggu Surf Hostel................................C2 37 Black Shores............................................ B1
12 Coconuts Guesthouse Canggu............. B2 38 Finn's Beach Club....................................C3
13 Echo Beach Resort................................. B2 39 Hungry Bird..............................................C2
14 Echoland ...................................................A1 Ji .......................................................(see 15)
15 Hotel Tugu Bali........................................ B2 40 La Laguna.................................................C3
16 Koming Guest House ..............................B1 41 Pretty Poison ........................................... C1
17 Legong Keraton ...................................... C3 42 Sand Bar................................................... A1
18 Lv8 Resort Hotel..................................... C3
19 Pondok Nyoman Bagus..........................A1 þ Shopping
20 Sedasa...................................................... C2 Dylan Board Store.........................(see 29)
21 Serenity Eco Guesthouse...................... B2 43 It Was All a Dream................................... D1
22 Surfers Paradise......................................A1 44 Ivy & Isabel...............................................D2
23 Widi Homestay........................................ C3

96
ing it all behind Finn’s Beach Club (p99) is
Canggu the vast estate of fashionista Paul Ropp.
More a state of mind than a place, Canggu
is the catch-all name given to the villa-filled Nelayan Beach BeACH
stretch of land between Kerobokan and Echo A collection of fishing boats and huts marks
Beach. It’s filled with an ever-more alluring the very mellow stretch of sand at Nelayan
collection of businesses, especially casual Beach, which fronts ‘villa-land’. Depending
cafes. Three main strips have emerged, all on the river levels, it can be an easy walk
running down to the beaches: two along the from here to Prancak and Batu Bolong
meandering Jl Pantai Berawa and one on Jl beaches.
Pantai Batu Bolong. Prancak Beach BeACH
A couple of drinks vendors and a large park-
r Beaches ing area are the major amenities at this
The beaches of the Canggu area continue beach, which is rarely crowded. The large
the sweep of sand that starts in Kuta. Their temple is Pura Dalem Prancak. Berawa
Kuta & SeminyaK
personalities vary from hip hang-out to Beach is an enjoyable 1km walk along the
sparsely populated – the latter can often be wave-tossed sands. It’s known for pick-up
found a mere 10-minute amble away from volleyball games.
the crowded areas.
1 Sights
Kuta & SeminyaK Be ACHeS
oBatu Bolong Beach BeACH Pura Batumejan HinDu temPLe
The beach at Batu Bolong is the most pop- (Pantai Batu Bolong) Overlooking Batu Bolong
ular in the Canggu area. There’s almost al- Beach is the centuries-old Pura Batumejan
ways a good mix of locals, expats and visitors complex, which has a striking pagoda-like
Kuta & SeminyaK CAnggu & AROunD
hanging out in the cafes, surfing the breaks temple.
or watching it all from the sand. There are
rental loungers, umbrellas and beer vendors. Pura Dalem Prancak HinDu temPLe
You can also rent surfboards (100,000Rp (Pantai Prancak) This large temple is often the
per day) and take lessons. Overlooking it site of ceremonies.
all is the centuries-old Pura Batumejan
complex. 2 Activities
Berawa Beach BeACH Very popular for surfing, the Canggu area
(parking motorbike/car 2000/3000Rp) Grey- beaches draw a lot of locals and expat resi-
ish Berawa Beach (‘Brawa Beach’ on many dents on weekends. Access to parking areas
signs) has a couple of surfer cafes by the usually costs 5000Rp and there are cafes
pounding sea. The grey volcanic sand here and warungs for those who work up an ap-
slopes steeply into foaming water. Overlook- petite in the water or watching others in the
water.
BEACH WALK Canggu Club HeALtH & FitneSS
(%0361-848 3939; www .cangguclub .com; Jl Pantai
You can usually walk the 4km of sand Berawa; adult/child day pass 300,000/180,000Rp;
between Batubelig Beach and Echo h6am-10pm) Bali’s expats shuttlecock them-
Beach in about one to two hours. It’s a selves silly at the Canggu Club, a New Age
fascinating stroll and you’ll see temples, version of something you’d expect to find
tiny fishing encampments, crashing during the Raj. The vast, perfectly virescent
surf, lots of surfers, cool cafes and out- lawn is manicured for croquet. Get sweaty
crops of upscale beach culture. The only with tennis, squash, polo, cricket, bowling,
catch is that after heavy rains, some the spa or the 25m pool. Many villa rent-
of the rivers may be too deep to cross, als include guest passes here. The garish
especially the one just northwest of Splash Waterpark is popular.
Batubelig. In any case, put your gear in
waterproof bags in case you have to do 4 Sleeping
some fording. Canggu has all types of places to stay. Guest-
It’s easy to find taxis at any of the houses self-billed as ‘surf camps’ have pro-
larger beaches if you don’t want to re- liferated. For longer-term lodging, besides
trace your steps.

97
searching online, check the bulletin board at there’s free bike rental and a shuttle into
Warung Varuna (p98). Seminyak.
Serenity Eco Guesthouse gueStHOuSe $ Calmtree Bungalows gueStHOuSe $$
(%0361-846 9257; www .serenityecoguest- (%0851 0074 7009; www .thecalmtreebungalows .
house .com; Jl nelayan; dm/s/d incl breakfast com; Jl Pantai Batu Bolong; r from 600,000Rp;
200,000/230,000/490,000Rp; aWs) S Ws) Right in the middle of the emerg-
This hotel is an oasis among the sterility ing heart of Batu Bolong, this family-run
of walled villas. Rooms range from shared- compound has eight traditional-style units
bath singles to quite nice doubles with bath- around a pool. Inside the thatched walls
rooms (some with fans, others with air-con). you’ll find rustic style fused with a touch
The grounds are appealingly eccentric; Nel- of modern. The bathrooms are open-air. Kuta & SeminyaK
ayan Beach is a five-minute walk. There are There’s no air-con but there are nets and
yoga classes (from 100,000Rp) and you can fans – think of it as atmospheric. Great staff. Kuta & SeminyaK SLeePing
rent surfboards, bikes and more.
This place makes an effort to minimise its Coconuts Guesthouse Kuta & SeminyaK CAnggu & AROunD
carbon footprint. Canggu gueStHOuSe $$
(%0878 6192 7150; www .coconutsguesthouse .
Big Brother Surf Inn gueStHOuSe $ com; Jl Pantai Batu Bolong; r from 750,000Rp;
(%0812 3838 0385; www .bigbrotherbali .com; Jl aWs) The five breezy rooms at this con-
Pantai Berawa 20; r 540,000-700,000Rp; aWs) temporary guesthouse are very comfortable.
This sleek take on a traditional Balinese Some have lovely views of the (surviving)
guesthouse has clean lines and plenty of rice fields, and all have fridges and a re-
minimalist white. The six rooms are airy laxed motif. Enjoy sunsets from the rooftop
and have outdoor sitting areas overlooking lounge area or take a dip in the 10m pool.
a garden with barbecue facilities and a pool. Batu Bolong Beach is a 700m walk.
It’s in a quiet location back off the road; de-
spite the name, your high jinks are unlikely Legong Keraton HOteL $$
to end up on a reality TV show. (%0361-473 0280; www .legongkeratonhotel .
com; Jl Pantai Berawa; r 820,000-1,400,000Rp;
Canggu Surf Hostel HOSteL $ aiWs) The Canggu boom has caught up
(%0813 5303 1293; www .canggusurfhostels . with this well-run 40-room beachfront re-
com; Jl Raya Semat; dm 120,000-150,000Rp, r sort. The grounds are shaded by palms and
400,000Rp; aWs) This well-equipped hos- the pool borders the beach. The best rooms
tel has a split personality: two locations, are in bungalow units facing the surf. Long
with the other just around the corner on Jl isolated, the hotel is now in the centre of the
Pantai Berawa. There are six- and four-bed action.
rooms plus private rooms. Enjoy multiple
public spaces, pools, kitchens and lockable oHotel Tugu Bali HOteL $$$
surfboard storage. (%0361-473 1701; www .tuguhotels .com; Jl Pan-
tai Batu Bolong; r incl breakfast from uS$400;
Widi Homestay HOmeStAy $ aiWs) Right at Batu Bolong Beach,
(%0819 3626 0860; widihomestay@yahoo .co .id; Jl this exquisite hotel blurs the boundaries
Pantai Berawa; r from 250,000Rp; aW) There’s between accommodation and a museum-
no faux-hipster vibe here with fake nihilist gallery, especially the Walter Spies and Le
bromides, just a spotless, friendly family-run Mayeur Pavilions, where memorabilia from
homestay. The four rooms have hot water the artists’ lives decorates the rooms. There’s
and air-con; the beach is barely 100m away. a spa and a high-style beachfront bar, Ji. The
stunning collection of antiques and artwork
oSedasa BOutiQue HOteL $$ begins in the lobby and extends throughout
(%0361-844 6655; www .sedasa .com; Jl Pantai the hotel.
Berawa; r incl breakfast 450,000-850,000Rp;
aWs) Both intimate and stylish, Sedasa Lv8 Resort Hotel ReSORt $$$
has an understated Balinese elegance. The (%0361-894 8888; www .lv8bali .com; Jl Discovery
10 large rooms overlook a small pool and 8; r 1,300,000-3,200,000Rp; aWs) Right on
have designer furniture. The beanbags on a bend in the lagoon and fronting Berawa
the rooftop make a good place to relax with Beach, this light and airy resort makes the
a book. Downstairs there’s an organic cafe. most of its long and narrow location. Even
It’s a five-minute walk to the beach, and the smallest of the 124 rooms are large,

98
with balconies and sitting areas. Some have healthy – you can get fries. There are juices
sweeping ocean views while others have pri- and lots of mains featuring veggies. It has
vate plunge pools. good baked goods and nice shakes.
5 Eating Monsieur Spoon CAFe $
Canggu is where you’ll find some of Bali’s (Jl Pantai Batu Bolong; snacks from 20,000Rp;
h6am-9pm; a) Beautiful French-style baked
most innovative and affordable places to eat. goods (the almond croissant, wow!) are the
Look along the main strips, as new cafes and speciality at this small Bali chain of cafes.
restaurants seem to open daily. Enjoy pastries, sandwiches on picture-
Warung Varuna inDOneSiAn $ perfect bread and fine coffees at a table in
(%0818 0551 8790; Jl Pantai Batu Bolong 89A; the garden or inside.
mains 20,000-40,000Rp; h8am-10pm) The best Green Ginger ASiAn $
deal for great local fare close to the beach, (%0878 6211 2729; Jl Pantai Berawa; meals from
Varuna combines excellent Balinese fare 40,000Rp; h8am-9pm; Wv) An attractive lit-
with a surfer sensibility. The nasi goreng tle restaurant on the fast-changing strip in
Kuta & SeminyaK
(fried rice) comes in several creative varia- Canggu, Green Ginger specialises in fresh
tions; there are also juices, smoothies and and tasty vegetarian and noodle dishes from
jaffles. It has good, hearty Western break- across Asia.
Kuta & SeminyaK CAngg
fasts. The bulletin board has many listings
for villa and room rentals. oOne Eyed Jack JAPAneSe $$
Warung Bu Mi inDOneSiAn $ (%0819 9929 1888; www .oneeyedjackbali .com; Jl
(%0857 3741 1115; Jl Pantai Batu Bolong 52; Pantai Berawa; h5pm-midnight) Izakaya, the
Kuta & SeminyaK e Atingu & AROunD
meals 25,000-40,000Rp; h8am-10pm) Classic style of Japanese dining that encourages
Balinese warung-style food. Choose your groups of friends to enjoy drinks and shared
style of rice (we like the local fave: nutty red) plates of food, is exemplified by this wonder-
and then go down the line picking from var- ful small restaurant. The chef is a veteran of
ious dishes. Don’t pass up the corn fritters. It internationally acclaimed Nomu; the dishes
has long tables amid a simple, clean interior. are superb. Tiny taco-style appetisers, chick-
en tsukune sliders and barbecue-pork buns
Bungalow CAFe $ will have you ordering seconds. Don’t miss
(%0361-844 6567; www .bungalowlivingbali .com; Jl the tea-based cocktails.
Pantai Berawa; mains from 30,000Rp; h8am-6pm
mon-Sat; a) Set just far enough back from oWarung Goûthé BiStRO $$
the road to avoid the fumes, this cafe re- (%0878 8947 0638; www .facebook .com/warung-
flects the retro-chic design sensibilities of its gouthe; Jl Pantai Berawa 7A; mains from 60,000Rp;
parent housewares emporium. Relax amid h9am-5pm mon-Sat) Superbly prepared and
distressed-wood surrounds on the veran- presented casual meals are the hallmark of
dah and choose from a vast range of coffee this open-front cafe. The very short menu
drinks, juices, smoothies, sandwiches, salads changes each day depending on what’s
and desserts. fresh. The French owners can take a simple
chicken sandwich and elevate it to magnif-
Indotopia ASiAn $ icent and memorable. The desserts alone
(%0822 3773 7760; Jl Pantai Berawa 34; mains should cause you to stop in whenever you
from 30,000Rp; h8am-10pm; W) Otherwise are nearby.
known as ‘Warung Vietnam’, this place
serves bowls of pho that are simply superb. oDeus Ex Machina CAFe $$
Lots of rich beefy goodness contrasting with (temple of enthusiasm; %0811 388 150; www .
perfect noodles and fragrant greens. Prefer deuscustoms .com; Jl Batu mejan 8; mains 60,000-
something sweeter? Go for the Saigon ba- 170,000Rp; h7am-11pm; W) This surreal
nana crepes. venue amid Canggu’s rice fields has many
personas. If you’re hungry it’s a restaurant-
Betelnut Cafe CAFe $ cafe-bar; for shoppers it’s a fashion label; if
(%0821 4680 7233; Jl Pantai Batu Bolong; mains you’re into culture it’s a contemporary-art
from 45,000Rp; h7am-10pm; aW) There’s a gallery; for music lovers it’s a live-gig venue
hippy-chic vibe at this thatched cafe with a (Sunday afternoons) for local punk bands;
mellow open-air dining room upstairs. The for bikers it’s a custom-made motorcycle
menu leans towards healthy, but not too