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FAST FOOD BALI-STYLE
Usually the most authentic Balinese food is found street-side (although Denpasar and
other areas have some sit-down places that are excellent). Locals of all stripes gather
around simple food stalls in markets and on village streets, wave down pedagang (mobile
traders) who ferry sweet and savoury snacks around by bicycle or motorcycle, and queue
for sate or bakso (Chinese meatballs in a light soup) at the kaki-lima carts. Kaki-lima
translates as something five-legged and refers to the three legs of the cart and the two of
the vendor, who is usually Javanese.
One note on health: food cooked fresh from carts and stalls is usually fine but that
which has been sitting around for a while can be dodgy at best or riddled with dubious Food & drink DRinkS
preservatives.
Fresh Juice
Local nonalcoholic refreshments available from markets, street vendors,
some warungs and many cafes are tasty and even a little psychedelic (in
colour) – and without the hangover! One of Bali’s most popular is cendol,
an interesting mix of palm sugar, fresh coconut milk, crushed ice and
various other random flavourings and floaties.
Coffee & Tea
Many Western eateries sell imported coffees and teas alongside local
brands, some of which are very good.
The most expensive – and most overhyped – is Indonesia’s peculiar
kopi luwak (p189). Around 200,000Rp a cup, this coffee is named after
the catlike civet (luwak) indigenous to Sulawesi, Sumatra and Java that
feasts on ripe coffee cherries. Entrepreneurs initially collected the intact
beans found in the civet’s droppings and processed them to produce a
supposedly extra-piquant brew. But now that interest in coffee luwak
has exceeded all reason, trouble abounds, from fraudulent claims to doc-
umented animal mistreatment.
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
350
The Arts
Bali’s vibrant arts scene makes the island so much more than just a tropical beach desti-
nation. In the paintings, sculpture, dance and music, you will see the natural artistic tal-
ent inherent in all Balinese, a legacy of their Majapahit heritage. The artistry displayed
here will stay with you long after you’ve moved on from the island.
An Island of Artists
Colin McPhee’s It’s telling that there is no Balinese equivalent for the words ‘art’ or ‘art-
iconic book about ist’. Until the tourist invasion, artistic expression was exclusively for re-
Balinese dance ligious and ritual purposes, and was almost exclusively done by men.
and culture, A Paintings and carvings were purely to decorate temples and shrines,
House in Bali
(1946), has while music, dance and theatrical performances were put on to entertain
been made into the gods who returned to Bali for important ceremonies. Artists did not
an opera of the strive to be different or individual as many do in the West; their work
same name. It’s reflected a traditional style or a new idea, but not their own personality.
the creation of That changed in the late 1920s when foreign artists began to settle in
Evan Ziporyn, a
composer who Ubud; they went to learn from the Balinese and to share their knowl-
spends much edge, and helped to establish art as a commercial enterprise. Today, it’s
time in Ubud. big business. Ubud remains the undisputed artistic centre of the island,
and artists come from near and far to draw on its inspiration, from Jap-
anese glass-blowers to European photographers and Javanese painters.
Galleries and craft shops are all over the island; the paintings, stone
carvings and woodcarvings are stacked up on floors and will trip you up
if you’re not careful. Much of it is churned out quickly, and some is com-
ically vulgar – put that 3m vision of a penis as Godzilla in your entryway,
will you? – but there is also a great deal of extraordinary work.
Dance
Bali
There are more than a dozen different dances in Bali, each with rigid
choreography, requiring high levels of discipline. Most performers have
learned through painstaking practice with an expert. No visit is complete
without enjoying this purely Balinese art form; you will be delighted by
the many styles, from the formal artistry of the Legong to crowd-pleasing
antics in the Barong. One thing Balinese dance is not is static. The best
troupes, like Semara Ratih in Ubud, are continually innovating.
You can catch a quality dance performance at any place where there’s
a festival or celebration, and you’ll find exceptional performances in and
around Ubud. Performances are typically at night and last about 90 min-
utes, and you’ll have a choice of eight or more performances a night.
With a little research and some good timing, you can attend perfor-
mances that are part of temple ceremonies. Here you’ll see the full beauty
of Bali’s dance and music heritage in the context of how it was meant to
be seen. Performances can last several hours. Absorb the hypnotic music
and the alluring moves of the performers as well as the rapt attention of
the crowd. Music, theatre and dance courses are also available in Ubud.
351
With the short attention spans of tourists in mind, many hotels offer
a smorgasbord of dances – a little Kecak, a taste of Barong and some
Legong to round it off. These can be pretty abbreviated, with just a few
musicians and a couple of dancers.
Kecak
Probably the best-known dance, for its spellbinding, hair-raising atmos-
phere, the Kecak features a ‘choir’ of men and boys who sit in concentric Balinese Dance,
Drama and
circles and slip into a trance as they chant and sing ‘chak-a-chak-a-chak’, Music: A Guide to
imitating a troupe of monkeys. Sometimes called the ‘vocal gamelan’, this the Performing
is the only music to accompany the dance re-enactment from the Hin- Arts of Bali, by I The ArTs DanCE
du epic Ramayana, the familiar love story about Prince Rama and his Wayan Dibia and
Rucina Ballinger,
Princess Sita. is a lavishly illus-
The tourist version of Kecak was developed in the 1960s. This spec- trated and highly
tacular performance is easily found in Ubud (look for Krama Desa Ubud recommended
Kaja with its 80 shirtless men chanting hypnotically) and also at the Pura in-depth guide
Luhur Ulu Watu. to Bali’s cultural
performances.
Legong
Characterised by flashing eyes and quivering hands, this most graceful
of Balinese dances is performed by young girls. Their talent is so revered
that in old age, a classic dancer will be remembered as a ‘great Legong’.
Peliatan’s famous dance troupe, Gunung Sari, often seen in Ubud, is
particularly noted for its Legong Keraton (Legong of the Palace). The
very stylised and symbolic story involves two Legong girls dancing in
MONKEYS & MONSTERS
The Barong and Rangda dance rivals the Kecak as Bali’s most popular performance for
tourists. Again, it’s a battle between good (the Barong) and bad (the Rangda).
The Barong is a good but mischievous and fun-loving shaggy dog-lion, with huge eyes
and a mouth that clacks away to much dramatic effect. Because this character is the
good protector of a village, the actors playing the Barong (who are utterly lost under
layers of fur-clad costume) will emote a variety of winsome antics. But as is typical of
Balinese dance, it is not all light-hearted – the Barong is a very sacred character indeed
and you’ll often see one in processions and rituals.
There’s nothing sacred about the Barong’s buddies. One or more monkeys attend to
him and these characters often steal the show. Actors are given free rein to range wildly.
The best aim a lot of high jinks at the audience, especially members who seem to be
taking things a tad too seriously.
Meanwhile, the widow-witch Rangda is bad through and through. The Queen of Black
Magic, the character’s monstrous persona can include flames shooting out her ears, a
tongue dripping fire, a mane of wild hair and large breasts.
The story features a duel between the Rangda and the Barong, whose supporters
draw their kris (traditional dagger) and rush in to help. The long-tongued, sharp-fanged
Rangda throws them into a trance, making them stab themselves. It’s quite a spectacle.
Thankfully, the Barong casts a spell that neutralises the power of the kris so it cannot
harm them.
Playing around with all that powerful magic, good and bad, requires the presence of
a pemangku (priest for temple rituals), who must end the dancers’ trance and make a
blood sacrifice using a chicken to propitiate the evil spirits.
In Ubud, Barong and Rangda dance troupes have many interpretations of the dance,
everything from eerie performances that will give you the shivers (until the monkeys
appear) to jokey versions that could be a variety show or Brit pantomime.
Barong masks are valued objects; you can find artful examples in the village of Mas,
south of Ubud.
352
mirror image. They are elaborately made up and dressed in gold brocade,
relating a story about a king who takes a maiden captive and conse-
quently starts a war, in which he dies.
Sanghyang & Kekac Fire Dance
Women often These dances were developed to drive out evil spirits from a village –
bring offerings Sanghyang is a divine spirit who temporarily inhabits an entranced
to a temple
while dancing dancer. The Sanghyang Dedari is performed by two young girls who
the Pendet, their dance a dreamlike version of the Legong in perfect symmetry while their
eyes, heads and eyes are firmly shut. Male and female choirs provide a background chant
hands moving until the dancers slump to the ground. A pemangku (priest for temple
in spectacularly rituals) blesses them with holy water and brings them out of the trance.
controlled and
coordinated In the Sanghyang Jaran, a boy in a trance dances around and through
movements. a fire of coconut husks, riding a coconut palm ‘hobby horse’. Variations of
The ArTs MUsIC
Every flick of the this are called the Kecak Fire Dance and are performed in Ubud almost
wrist, hand and daily.
fingers is charged
with meaning. Other Dances
The warrior dance, the Baris, is a male equivalent of the Legong – grace
and femininity give way to an energetic and warlike spirit. The highly
skilled Baris dancer must convey the thoughts and emotions of a warrior
first preparing for action, and then meeting the enemy: chivalry, pride,
anger, prowess and, finally, regret are illustrated.
In the Topeng, which means ‘pressed against the face’, as with a mask,
the dancers imitate the character represented by the mask. This requires
great expertise because the dancer cannot convey thoughts and mean-
ings through facial expressions – the dance must tell all.
Lombok
Lombok has its own unique dances, but they are not widely marketed.
Performances are staged in some top-end hotels and in Lenek village,
known for its dance traditions. If you’re in Senggigi in July, you might
Preserving and catch dance and gendang beleq (big drum) performances. The gendang
performing rare beleq, a dramatic war dance also called the Oncer, is performed by men
and ancient and boys who play a variety of unusual musical instruments for adat
Balinese dance (traditional customs) festivals in central and eastern Lombok.
and gamelan
music is the Music
mission of Mekar
Bhuana (www. Bali
balimusicand- Balinese music is based around an ensemble known as a gamelan, also
dance.com), a
Denpasar-based called a gong. A gong gede (large orchestra) is the traditional form, with
cultural group. 35 to 40 musicians. The more ancient gamelan selunding is still occa-
They sponsor sionally played in Bali Aga villages such as Tenganan.
performances The popular modern form of a gong gede is gong kebyar, with up to 25
and offer lessons. instruments. This melodic, sometimes upbeat and sometimes haunting
percussion that often accompanies traditional dance is one of the most
lasting impressions for tourists to Bali.
The prevalent voice in Balinese music is from the xylophone-like gang-
sa, which the player hits with a hammer, dampening the sound just af-
ter it’s struck. The tempo and nature of the music is controlled by two
kendang (drums), one male and one female. Other instruments are the
deep trompong drums, small kempli gong and cengceng (cymbals) used
in faster pieces. Not all instruments require great skill and making music
is a common village activity.
Many shops in south Bali and Ubud sell the distinctive gongs, flutes,
bamboo xylophones and bamboo chimes. Look online for downloads.
353
Lombok
The genggong, a performance seen on Lombok, uses a simple set of in-
struments, including a bamboo flute, a rebab (two-stringed bowed lute)
and knockers. Seven musicians accompany their music with dance
movements and stylised hand gestures.
Wayang Kulit
Much more than sheer entertainment, wayang kulit has been Bali’s can-
dlelit cinema for centuries, embodying the sacred seriousness of classical an arja drama
Greek drama. (The word drama comes from the Greek dromenon, a reli- is not unlike
gious ritual.) The performances are long and intense – lasting six hours wayang kulit
or more and often not finishing before sunrise. puppet shows in The ArTs Wayang KUlIT
Originally used to bring ancestors back to this world, the shows fea- its melodramatic
ture painted buffalo-hide puppets believed to have great spiritual power, plots, its offstage
sound effects
and the dalang (puppet master and storyteller) is an almost mystical and its cast of
figure. A person of considerable skill and even greater endurance, the easily identifiable
dalang sits behind a screen and manipulates the puppets while telling goodies (the
the story, often in many dialects. refined alus) and
baddies (the
Stories are chiefly derived from the great Hindu epics, the Ramayana unrefined kras).
and, to a lesser extent, the Mahabharata. It’s performed
You can find performances in Ubud, which are attenuated to a man- outside and a
ageable two hours or less. small house is
sometimes built
Painting on stage and set
on fire at the
Balinese painting is probably the art form most influenced by Western climax!
ideas and demand. Traditional paintings, faithfully depicting religious
and mythological subjects, were for temple and palace decoration, and
the set colours were made from soot, clay and pigs’ bones. In the 1930s,
Western artists introduced the concept of paintings as artistic crea-
tions that could also be sold for money. To target the tourist market,
they encouraged deviance to scenes from everyday life and the use of
the full palette of modern paints and tools. The range of themes, tech-
niques, styles and materials expanded enormously, and women painters
emerged for the first time.
INFLUENTIAL WESTERN ARTISTS
Besides Arie Smit (who died on Bali at age 99 in 2016), several other Western artists had
a profound effect on Balinese art in the early and middle parts of the 20th century. In
addition to honouring Balinese art, they provided a critical boost to its vitality at a time
when it might have died out.
Walter Spies (1895−1942) A German artist, Spies first visited Bali in 1925 and moved to
Ubud in 1927, establishing the image of Bali for Westerners that prevails today.
Rudolf Bonnet (1895−1978) Bonnet was a Dutch artist whose work concentrated on the
human form and everyday Balinese life. Many classical Balinese paintings with themes of
markets and cockfights are indebted to Bonnet.
Miguel Covarrubias (1904−57) Island of Bali, written by this Mexican artist, is still the
classic introduction to the island and its culture.
Colin McPhee (1900−65) A Canadian musician, McPhee wrote A House in Bali. It re-
mains one of the best written accounts of Bali, and his tales of music and house building
are often highly amusing. His patronage of traditional dance and music cannot be over-
stated.
Adrien Jean Le Mayeur de Merpres (1880−1958) This Belgian artist arrived on Bali in
1932 and did much to establish the notions of sensual Balinese beauty, often based on
his wife, the dancer Ni Polok. Their home is now an under-appreciated museum in Sanur.
354
A loose classification of styles is classical, or Kamasan, named for the
village of Kamasan near Semarapura; Ubud style, developed in the 1930s
under the influence of the Pita Maha; Batuan, which started at the same
time in a nearby village; Young Artists, begun postwar in the 1960s, and
influenced by Dutch artist Arie Smit; and finally, modern or academic,
free in its creative topics, yet strongly and distinctively Balinese.
Where to See & Buy Paintings
There is a relatively small number of creative original painters in Bali,
and an enormous number of imitators. Shops, especially in south Bali,
are packed full of paintings in whatever style is popular at the time –
Treasures of Bali,
by Richard Mann, some are quite good and a few are really excellent (and in many you’ll
is a beautifully il- swear you see the numbers used to guide the artists under the paint).
lustrated guide to Top museums in Ubud, such as the Neka Art Museum (p152), Agung
Bali’s museums, Rai Museum of Art (p154) and the Museum Puri Lukisan (p149), show-
big and small. case the best of Balinese art and some of the European influences that
The ArTs PaInTIng
It highlights
the gems often have shaped it. There are more noted galleries as you go south of Ubud
overlooked by to Mas (p185).
group tours. Commercial galleries such as Ubud’s Neka Gallery (p149) and Agung
Rai Gallery (p155) offer high-quality works. Exploring the dizzying mel-
ange of galleries – high and low – makes for a fun afternoon or longer.
Classical Painting
There are three basic types of classical painting – langse, iders-iders and
calendars. Langse are large decorative hangings for palaces or temples
that display wayang figures (which have an appearance similar to the
figures used in shadow puppetry), rich floral designs and flame-and-
mountain motifs. Iders-iders are scroll paintings hung along temple
eaves. Calendars are, much as they were before, used to set dates for
rituals and predict the future.
Langse paintings helped impart adat (traditional customs) to ordi-
nary people in the same way that traditional dance and wayang kulit
puppetry do. The stylised human figures depicted good and evil, with
romantic heroes like Ramayana and Arjuna always painted with small,
narrow eyes and fine features, while devils and warriors were prescribed
round eyes, coarse features and facial hair. The paintings tell a story in
a series of panels, rather like a comic strip, and often depict scenes from
the Ramayana and Mahabharata. Other themes are the Kakawins poems,
and demonic spirits from indigenous Balinese folklore – see the ceilings
of the Kertha Gosa (Hall of Justice) in Semarapura for an example.
A good place to see classical painting in a modern context is at the
Nyoman Gunarsa Museum near Semarapura, which was established to
preserve and promote classical techniques.
The Pita Maha
In the 1930s, with few commissions from temples, painting was virtually
dying out. European artists Rudolf Bonnet and Walter Spies, with their
patron Cokorda Gede Agung Surapati, formed the Pita Maha (literally,
Great Vitality) to take painting from a ritual-based activity to a commer-
cial one. The cooperative had more than 100 members at its peak in the
1930s and led to the establishment of Museum Puri Lukisan in Ubud, the
first museum dedicated to Balinese art.
The changes Bonnet and Spies inspired were revolutionary. Balinese
artists such as the late I Gusti Nyoman Lempad, I Wayan Ketig, I Ketut
Regig and Gus Made started exploring their own styles. Narrative tales
were replaced by single scenes, and romantic legends by daily life: the
harvest, markets, cockfights, offerings at a temple or a cremation. These
paintings were known as Ubud style.
355
Meanwhile, painters from Batuan retained many features of classical
painting. They depicted daily life, but across many scenes – a market,
dance and rice harvest would all appear in a single work. This Batuan
style is also noted for its inclusion of some very modern elements, such
as sea scenes with the odd windsurfer.
The painting techniques also changed. Modern paint and materials
were used and stiff formal poses gave way to realistic 3-D representa-
tions. More importantly, pictures were not just painted to fit a space in
a carefully
a palace or a temple. selected list of
In one way, the style remained unchanged – Balinese paintings are books about
packed with detail. A painted Balinese forest, for example, has branches, art, culture and The ArTs PaInTIng
leaves and a whole zoo of creatures reaching out to fill every tiny space. Balinese writers,
This new artistic enthusiasm was interrupted by WWII and Indone- dancers and
sia’s independence struggle, and stayed that way until the development musicians can be
found at www.ga-
of the Young Artists’ style. neshabooksbali.
com, the website
The Young Artists for the excellent
Arie Smit was in Penestanan, just outside Ubud, in 1956, when he no- Ubud bookstore
ticed an 11-year-old boy drawing in the dirt. Smit wondered what the boy (with a branch in
could produce if he had the proper equipment. As the legend goes, the sanur).
boy’s father would not allow him to take up painting until Smit offered
to pay somebody else to watch the family’s ducks.
Other ‘young artists’ soon joined that first pupil, I Nyoman Cakra, but
Smit did not actively teach them. He simply provided the equipment
and encouragement, unleashing what was clearly a strong natural talent.
Today this style of rural scenes painted in brilliant Technicolor is a staple
of Balinese tourist art.
I Nyoman Cakra still lives in Penestanan, still paints, and cheerfully
admits that he owes it all to Smit. Other Young Artists include I Ketut
Tagen, I Nyoman Tjarka and I Nyoman Mujung.
TODAY’S BALINESE PAINTERS
Numerous Balinese artists are receiving international recognition for their work, which
often has a strong theme of social justice and a questioning of modern values. Still, being
Balinese and all, the works have a sly wit and even a wink to the viewer. Some names to
watch for:
Nyoman Masriadi Born in Gianyar, Masriadi is easily the superstar of Bali’s current crop
of painters, and his works sell for upwards of a million dollars. He is renowned for his
sharp-eyed observations of Indonesian society today and his thoroughly modern tech-
niques and motifs.
Made Djirna Hailing from the comparatively wealthy tourist town of Ubud, Djirna has the
perfect background for his works, which criticise the relationship between ostentatious
money and modern Balinese religious ceremonies.
Agung Mangu Putra This painter from the deeply green hills west of Ubud finds inspira-
tion in the Balinese being bypassed by the island’s uneven economic boom. He decries
the impact on his natural world.
Wayan Sudarna Putra An Ubud native, Putra uses satire and parody in his works, which
cross media to question the absurdities of current Indonesian life and values.
Ketut Sana A resident of Keliki, a village near Ubud, Sana knew noted artists Gusti Ny-
oman Sudara Lempad and Wayan Gerudug when he was young. He started his impres-
sionistic work by adapting scraps from their work.
Gede Suanda Sayur Sayur’s works are often dark as he questions the pillaging of Bali’s
environment. He joined Putra to create an installation in a rice field near Ubud that fea-
tured huge white poles spelling out ‘Not for sale’.
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
356
Top Five Arts
Experiences
For such a little island, there’s a lot of art IRYNA RASKO / SHUTTERSTOCK ©
on Bali. From works created by hand to
performances using hands, Balinese art is
all-encompassing.
Ikat
At an ikat factory you may find the
frenetic clacking of dozens of ancient
wooden looms hypnotic or cacophonous,
but you’ll likely find the results beautiful.
Traditionally dyed threads are woven
together to form beautiful and distinctly
handmade patterns (p359).
Legong Dancing
The movements of the best Legong dancers
(p351) seem impossibly robotic and rigidly
controlled. Young girls and women dressed
in tight-embroidered and gold-highlighted
finery perform rigorous dances with precise 1. Ornamental relief carving 2. Kecak performance at Pura Luhur
movements of their eyes and virtually every Ulu Watu (p112) 3. Legong dancers at Bali Arts Festival (p131)
muscle. Watch their hands as they create
the flights of butterflies.
Kecak Chanting
You’ll be haunted for hours after you see
a Kecak performance (p351). The sounds
of dozens of men chanting and singing
for more than an hour is bewitching and
you may find you’re slipping into a trance
not unlike the performers. The sounds are
rhythmic, the effect mesmerising.
Barong & Rangda
With a brightly coloured mask, Barongs
(p350) are hard to miss in performance –
and that’s before you take in the rest of
their huge shaggy costume. Representing
good, Barongs clack their wooden mouths
and generally do their best to steal the
spotlight from their evil counterpart,
Rangda.
Stone Carving
If Indiana Jones hired an artist it would
be a Balinese carver. Using the island’s
soft volcanic stone, these craftspeople
create elaborate designs that quickly age,
so that a new temple soon looks like an
ancient wonder (p361).
357
ALEXANDER MAZURKEVICH / SHUTTERSTOCK ©
TROPICAL STUDIO / SHUTTERSTOCK ©
358
Other Styles
There are some other variants to the main Ubud and Young Artists’
painting styles. The depiction of forests, flowers, butterflies, birds and
other naturalistic themes, for example, sometimes called Pengosekan
style, became popular in the 1960s. It can probably be traced back to
Henri Rousseau, who was a significant influence on Walter Spies. An
interesting development in this particular style is the depiction of un-
derwater scenes, with colourful fish, coral gardens and sea creatures.
Somewhere between the Pengosekan and Ubud styles sit the miniature
landscape paintings that are popular commercially.
The new techniques also resulted in radically new versions of Rang-
da, Barong, Hanuman and other figures from Balinese and Hindu my-
The magazine/
comic Bog Bog, thology. Scenes from folk tales and stories appeared, featuring dancers,
by Balinese nymphs and love stories, with an understated erotic appeal.
cartoonists, is
The ArTs CRaf Ts
a satirical and Crafts
humorous insight Bali is a showroom for crafts from around Indonesia. The nicer tourist
into the contrast shops will sell puppets and batiks from Java, ikat garments from Sumba,
between modern
and traditional Sumbawa and Flores, and textiles and woodcarvings from Bali, Lombok
worlds in Bali. and Kalimantan. The kris, so important to a Balinese family, will often
It’s available in have been made in Java.
warungs (food On Lombok, where there’s never been much money, traditional handi-
stalls), bookshops crafts are practical items, but they are still skilfully made and beautifully
and supermar-
kets or online at finished. The finer examples of Lombok weaving, basketware and pot-
www.facebook. tery are highly valued by collectors.
com/bogbogcar-
toon. Textiles & Weaving
Bali
Textiles in Bali and Lombok are woven by women for ceremonies, as
well as for gifts. They are often part of marriage dowries and cremations,
where they join the deceased’s soul as it passes to the afterlife.
The most common material in Bali is the sarong, which can be used as
an article of clothing, a sheet or a towel, among other things. The cheap
cottons, either plain or printed, are for everyday use, and are popular
with tourists for beachwear.
For special occasions such as a temple ceremony, Balinese men and
women use a kamben (a length of songket wrapped around the chest).
The songket is silver- or gold-threaded cloth, handwoven using a floating
weft technique, while another variety is the endek (like songket, but with
pre-dyed weft threads).
The men pair the kamben with a shirt and the women pair it with a
kebaya (long-sleeved lace blouse). A separate slim strip of cloth known
as a kain (or known as prada when decorated with a gold-leaf pattern)
is wound tightly around the hips and over the sarong like a belt to com-
plete the outfit.
Where to Buy
Any market, especially in Denpasar, will have a good range of textiles. Of-
ten groups of stores will cluster on one street, such as Jl Sulawesi across
from the main market in Denpasar and Jl Arjuna in Legian. Threads
of Life (p181) in Ubud is a Fair Trade–certified textiles gallery that pre-
serves traditional Balinese and Indonesian handweaving skills. Factories
around Gianyar in east Bali and Blahbatuh southeast of Ubud have large
showrooms. For exquisite work, seek out Gusti Ayu Made Mardiani’s
home and workshop Jepun Bali (p133) in south Denpasar.
359
OFFERINGS
Traditionally, many of Bali’s most elaborate crafts have been ceremonial offerings not
intended to last: baten tegeh (decorated pyramids of fruit, rice cakes and flowers); rice-
flour cookies modelled into entire scenes with a deep symbolic significance and tiny
sculptures; lamak (long, woven palm-leaf strips used as decorations in festivals and cele-
brations); stylised female figures known as cili, which are representations of Dewi Sri (the
rice goddess); and intricately carved coconut-shell wall hangings.
Tourists in Bali may enjoy being welcomed as honoured guests, but the real VIPs
are the gods, ancestors, spirits and demons. They are presented with these offerings The ArTs CRaf Ts
throughout each day to show respect and gratitude, or perhaps to bribe a demon into
being less mischievous. Marvel at the care and energy that goes into constructing huge
funeral towers and exotic sarcophagi, all of which will go up in flames.
A gift to a higher being must look attractive, so each offering is a work of art. The
most common is a palm-leaf tray little bigger than a saucer, artfully topped with flowers,
food (especially rice, and modern touches such as Ritz crackers or individually wrapped
lollies) and small change, crowned with a saiban (temple or shrine offering). More im-
portant shrines and occasions call for more elaborate offerings, which can include the
colourful towers of fruits and cakes called baten tegeh, and even entire animals cooked
and ready to eat, as in Bali’s famous babi guling (suckling pig).
Once presented to the gods an offering cannot be used again, so new ones are made
each day, usually by women. You’ll see easy-to-assemble offerings for sale in markets,
much as you’d find quick dinner items in Western supermarkets.
Offerings to the gods are placed on high levels and to the demons on the ground.
Don’t worry about stepping on these; given their ubiquity, it’s almost impossible not to
(just don’t try to). In fact, at Bemo Corner in Kuta offerings are left at the shrine in the
middle of the road and are quickly flattened by cars. Across the island, dogs with a taste
for crackers hover around fresh offerings. Given the belief that gods or demons instantly
derive the essence of an offering, the critters are really just getting leftovers.
Batik
Traditional batik sarongs, which fall somewhere between a cotton sarong
and kamben for formality, are handmade in central Java. The dyeing
process has been adapted by the Balinese to produce brightly coloured
and patterned fabrics. Watch out for ‘batik’ that’s been screenprinted: the
colours will be washed out and the pattern is often only on one side (the
dye in proper batik should colour both sides to reflect the belief that the
body should feel what the eye sees).
Ikat
Ikat involves dyeing either the warp threads (those stretched on the
loom) or weft threads (those woven across the warp) before the mate-
rial is woven. The resulting pattern is geometric and slightly wavy. The
colouring typically follows a similar tone – blues and greens; reds and
browns; or yellows, reds and oranges. Gianyar, in east Bali, has a few
factories where you can watch ikat sarongs being woven on a hand-and-
foot-powered loom. A complete sarong takes about six hours to make.
Lombok
Lombok is renowned for traditional weaving on backstrap looms, the
techniques handed down from mother to daughter. Abstract flower and
animal motifs such as buffalo, dragons, crocodiles and snakes sometimes
decorate this exquisite cloth. Several villages specialise in weaving cloth,
while others concentrate on fine baskets and mats woven from rotan
(hardy, pliable vine) or grass. You can visit factories around Cakranegara
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and Mataram that produce weft ikat on old hand-and-foot-operated
looms.
Sukarara and Pringgasela are centres for traditional ikat and songket
weaving (silver- or gold-threaded cloth, handwoven using floating weft
technique). Sarongs, Sasak belts and clothing edged with brightly colour-
ed embroidery are sold in small shops.
Woodcarving
Woodcarving in Bali has evolved from its traditional use for doors and
columns, religious figures and theatrical masks to modern forms encom-
passing a wide range of styles. While Tegallalang and Jati, on the road
north from Ubud, are noted woodcarving centres, along with the route
from Mas through Peliatan, you can find pieces in any souvenir store. See
beautiful work and possibly try your hand at creating some of your own
at the workshop of Ida Bagus Anom Suryawan (p186) in Mas.
The ArTs CRaf Ts
The common style of a slender, elongated figure reportedly first ap-
peared after Walter Spies gave a woodcarver a long piece of wood and
commissioned him to carve two sculptures from it. The carver couldn’t
bring himself to cut it in half, instead making a single figure of a tall,
slim dancer.
Other typical works include classical religious figures, animal carica-
tures, life-size human skeletons, picture frames, and whole tree trunks
carved into ghostly ‘totem poles’. In Kuta there are various objects tar-
geting beer drinkers: penis bottle openers (which are claimed to be Bali’s
bestselling souvenir) and signs to sit above your bar bearing made-to-
order slogans.
Almost all carving is of local woods including belalu (quick-growing
light wood) and the stronger fruit timbers such as jackfruit wood. Ebony
from Sulawesi is also used. Sandalwood, with its delightful fragrance, is
expensive and soft, and is used for some small, very detailed pieces, but
beware of widespread fakery.
On Lombok, carving usually decorates functional items such as con-
tainers for tobacco and spices, and the handles of betel-nut crushers and
knives. Materials include wood, horn and bone, and you’ll see these used
in the recent trend: primitive-style elongated masks. Cakranegara, Sindu,
Labuapi and Senanti are centres for carving on the island.
Wooden articles lose moisture when moved to a drier environment.
Avoid possible shrinkage – especially of your penis bottle opener – by
KRIS: SACRED BLADES
Usually adorned with an ornate, jewel-studded handle and a sinister-looking wavy blade,
the kris is Bali’s traditional, ceremonial dagger, dating back to the Majapahit era. A kris
is often the most important of family heirlooms, a symbol of prestige and honour and a
work of high-end art. Made by a master craftsperson, it’s believed to have great spiritual
power, sending out magical energy waves and thus requiring great care in its handling
and use. Many owners will only clean the blade with waters from Sungai Pakerisan (Pak-
erisan River) in east Bali because it is thought to be the magical ‘River of Kris’.
Balinese men will judge each other in a variation of ‘show me your kris’. The size of the
blade, the number owned, the quality, the artistry of the handles and much more will go
into forming a judgement of a man and his kris. Handles are considered separately from
a kris (the blade). As a man’s fortunes allow, he will upgrade the handles in his collection.
But the kris itself remains sacred – often you will see offerings beside ones on display.
The undulations in the blade (called lok) have many meanings and there’s always an odd
number − three, for instance, means passion.
The Museum Negeri Propinsi Bali (p128) in Denpasar has a rich kris collection.
361
placing the carving in a plastic bag at home, and letting some air in for
about one week every month for four months.
Masks used in theatre and dance performances such as the Topeng
require a specialised form of woodcarving. The mask master – always
a man – must know the movements each performer uses so the char-
acter can be accurately depicted in the mask. These masks are believed
to possess magical qualities and can even have the ability to stare down
bad spirits.
Other masks, such as the Barong and Rangda, are brightly painted
and decorated with real hair, enormous teeth and bulging eyes.
Puaya near Sukawati, south of Ubud, is a centre of mask carving. You The ArTs CRaf Ts
can visit workshops there and see all manner of ceremonial art being cre-
ated. The Museum Negeri Propinsi Bali in Denpasar has an extensive mask
collection so you can get acquainted with different styles before buying.
Stone Carving
Traditionally for temple adornment, stone sculptures now make popular
souvenirs ranging from frangipani reliefs to quirky ornaments that dis-
play the Balinese sense of humour: a frog clutching a leaf as an umbrella,
or a weird demon on the side of a bell clasping his hands over his ears
in mock offence.
At temples, you will see stone carving in set places. Door guardians
are usually a protective personality such as Arjuna. Kala’s monstrous face
often peers out above the main entrance, his hands reaching to catch evil
spirits. The side walls of a pura dalem (temple of the dead) might feature
sculpted panels showing the horrors awaiting evildoers in the afterlife.
Among Bali’s most ancient stone carvings are the scenes of people
fleeing a great monster at Goa Gajah, the so-called ‘Elephant Cave’, be-
lieved to date to the 11th century. Inside the cave, a statue of Ganesha,
the elephant-like god, gives the rock its name. Along the road through
Muncan in east Bali you’ll see roadside factories where huge temple dec-
orations are carved in the open.
Much of the local work is made in Batubulan from grey volcanic stone
called paras, so soft it can be scratched with a fingernail (which, accord-
ing to legend, is how the giant Kebo Iwa created the Elephant Cave).
Pottery
Pejaten, near Tabanan, has a number of workshops producing ceramic fig-
ures and glazed ornamental roof tiles. Stunning collections of designer,
contemporary glazed ceramics are produced at Jenggala Keramik in Jim-
baran, which also hosts exhibitions of various Indonesian art and antiques.
Jewellery
Silversmiths and goldsmiths are traditionally members of the pande
caste, which also incudes blacksmiths and other metalworkers. Bali is a
major producer of fashion jewellery and produces variations on current-
ly fashionable designs.
Very fine filigree work is a Balinese speciality, as is the use of tiny
spots of silver to form a pattern or decorative texture – this is considered
a very skilled technique because the heat must be perfectly controlled
to weld the delicate wire or silver spots to the underlying silver without
damaging it. Balinese work is nearly always handmade, rarely involving
casting techniques.
Expat John Hardy built an empire worth hundreds of millions of dol-
lars by adapting old Balinese silver designs along with his own beautiful
innovations before he sold his company and started building bamboo
buildings. Ubud has numerous creative silver jewellery shops, especially
along upper Jl Hanoman.
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
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Architecture
Design is part of Bali’s spiritual heritage and creates the look of traditional homes,
temples and even modern buildings, such as resorts. Bali style is timeless, whether it
is centuries old or embodied in a new hip villa. And it’s not static – Bali is the site of
world-renowned architecture made with renewable materials like bamboo.
Architecture & Life
The various open- Architecture brings together the living and the dead, pays homage to
air bale in family the gods and wards off evil spirits, not to mention the torrential rain. As
compounds are spiritual as it is functional, as mystical as it is beautiful, Balinese archi-
where visitors
are received. tecture has a life force of its own.
Typically, drinks On an island bound by deep-rooted religious and cultural rituals, the
and small cakes priority of any design is appeasing the ancestral and village gods. This
will be served and means reserving the holiest (northeast) location in every land space for
friendly conver- the village temple, the same corner in every home for the family tem-
sations will ensue
for possibly an ple, and providing a comfortable, pleasing atmosphere to entice the gods
hour or more back to Bali for ceremonies.
before the So while it exudes beauty, balance, age-old wisdom and functionality, a
purpose of a visit Balinese home is not a commodity designed with capital appreciation in
is discussed. mind; even while an increasing number of rice farmers sell their ances-
tral land to foreigners for villa developments, they’re keeping the parcel
on which their home stands.
Preserving the Cosmic Order
A village, a temple, a family compound, an individual structure – and
even a single part of the structure – must all conform to the Balinese
concept of cosmic order. It consists of three parts that represent the three
worlds of the cosmos – swah (the world of gods), bhwah (world of hu-
mans) and bhur (world of demons). The concept also represents a three-
part division of a person: utama (the head), madia (the body) and nista
(the legs). The units of measurement used in traditional buildings are
directly based on the anatomical dimensions of the head of the house-
hold, ensuring harmony between the dwelling and those who live in it.
The design is traditionally done by an undagi (a combination archi-
tect-priest); it must maintain harmony between god, man and nature
under the concept of Tri Hita Karana. If it’s not quite right, the universe
may fall off balance and no end of misfortune and ill health will visit the
community involved.
Building on the Bale
The basic element of Balinese architecture is the bale, a rectangular,
open-sided pavilion with a steeply pitched roof of thatch. Both a family
compound and a temple will comprise of a number of separate bale for
specific functions, all surrounded by a high wall. The size and propor-
tions of the bale, the number of columns and the position within the
compound are all determined according to tradition and the owner’s
caste status.
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The focus of a community is a large pavilion, called the bale banjar, used
for meetings, debates and gamelan (traditional orchestra) practice, among
many other activities. You’ll find that large modern buildings such as res-
taurants and the lobby areas of resorts are often modelled on the larger
bale, and they can be airy, spacious and very handsomely proportioned.
The Family Compound
The Balinese house looks inward – the outside is simply a high wall.
Inside there is a garden and a separate small building or bale for each
activity – one for cooking, one for washing and the toilet, and separate
buildings for each ‘bedroom’. In Bali’s mild tropical climate people live
TYPICAL FAMILY COMPOUND
The following are elements commonly found in family compounds. Although there are Architecture The Family Compound
variations, the designs are surprisingly similar, especially given they occur thousands of
times across Bali.
Sanggah or Merajan Family temple, which is always at the kaja–kangin (sunrise in the
direction of the mountains) corner of the courtyard. There will be shrines to the Hindu
‘trinity’ of Brahma, Shiva and Vishnu, and to taksu (the divine intermediary).
Umah Meten Sleeping pavilion for the family head.
Tugu Shrine to the god of evil spirits in the compound but at the far kaja–kuah (sunset
in the direction of the mountains) corner; by employing the chief evil spirit as a guard,
others will stay away.
Pengijeng Small shrine amid the compound’s open space, dedicated to the spirit who is
the guardian of the property.
Bale Tiang Sanga Guest pavilion, also known as the bale duah. Literally the family room,
it’s used as a gathering place, offering workplace or temporary quarters of lesser sons
and their families before they establish their own home.
Natah Courtyard with frangipani or hibiscus shade trees, with always a few chickens
pecking about, plus a fighting cock or two in a basket.
Bale Sakenam or Bale Dangin Working and sleeping pavilion; may be used for impor-
tant family ceremonies.
Fruit Trees & Coconut Palms Serve both practical and decorative purposes. Fruit trees
are often mixed with flowering trees such as hibiscus, and caged songbirds hang from
the branches.
Vegetable Garden Small; usually just for a few spices such as lemongrass not grown on
larger plots.
Bale Sakepat Sleeping pavilion for children; highly optional.
Paon Kitchen; always in the south, as that is the direction associated with Brahma, god
of fire.
Lumbung Rice barn – the domain of both the precious grain and Dewi Sri, the rice god-
dess. It’s elevated to discourage rice-eating pests.
Rice-Threshing Area Important for farmers to prepare rice for cooking or storage.
Aling Aling Screen wall requiring visitors to turn a sharp left or right. This ensures both
privacy from passers-by and protection from demons, which the Balinese believe cannot
turn corners.
Candi Kurung Gate with a roof, resembling a mountain or tower split in half.
Apit Lawang or Pelinggah Gate shrines, which continually receive offerings to recharge
the gate’s ability to repel evil spirits.
Pigsty or garbage pit Always in the kangin–kelod (sunrise in the direction away from
the mountains) corner, the compound’s waste ends up here.
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outside, so the ‘living room’ and ‘dining room’ will be open veranda ar-
eas, looking out into the garden. The whole complex is oriented on the
kaja–kelod (towards the mountains–towards the sea) axis.
Homes from Head to…
Analogous to the human body, compounds have a head (the family tem-
ple with its ancestral shrine), arms (the sleeping and living areas), legs
and feet (the kitchen and rice storage building), and even an anus (the
garbage pit or pigsty). There may be an area outside the house com-
pound where fruit trees are grown or a pig is kept.
TYPICAL TEMPLE ELEMENTS
No two temples on Bali are identical. Variations in style, size, importance, wealth, pur-
pose and much more result in near infinite variety. But there are common themes and
elements. Use this as a guide and see how many design elements you can find in each
Balinese temple you visit.
Candi Bentar The intricately sculpted temple gateway, like a tower split down the middle
and moved apart, symbolises that you are entering a sanctum. It can be quite grand, with
auxiliary entrances on either side for daily use.
Kulkul Tower The warning-drum tower, from which a wooden split drum (kulkul) is
sounded to announce events at the temple or warn of danger.
Bale A pavilion, usually open-sided, for temporary use or storage. It may include a bale
Architecture The Family Compound
gong, where the gamelan orchestra plays at festivals; a paon, or temporary kitchen, to
prepare offerings; or a wantilan, a stage for dances or cockfights.
Kori Agung or Paduraksa The gateway to the inner courtyard is an intricately sculpted
stone tower. Entry is through a doorway reached by steps in the middle of the tower and
left open during festivals.
Raksa or Dwarapala Statues of fierce guardian figures who protect the doorway and
deter evil spirits. Above the door will be the equally fierce face of a Bhoma, with hands
outstretched against unwanted spirits.
Aling Aling If an evil spirit does get in, this low wall behind the entrance will keep it at
bay, as evil spirits find it difficult to make sharp turns. Also found in family compounds.
Side Gate (Betelan) Most of the time (except during ceremonies), entry to the inner
courtyard is through this side gate, which is always open.
Small Shrines (Gedong) These usually include shrines to Ngrurah Alit and Ngrurah
Gede, who organise things and ensure the correct offerings are made.
Padma Stone Throne for the sun god Surya, placed in the most auspicious kaja–kangin
(sunrise in the direction of the mountains) corner. It rests on the badawang (world turtle),
which is held by two naga (mythical snakelike creatures).
Meru A multiroofed shrine. Usually there is an 11-roofed meru to Sanghyang Widi, the
supreme Balinese deity, and a three-roofed meru to the holy mountain Gunung Agung.
However, meru can take any odd number of steps in between, depending on where the
intended god falls in the pecking order. The black thatching is made from sugar-palm
fronds and is very expensive.
Small Shrines (Gedong) At the kaja end of the courtyard, these may include a shrine to
the sacred mountain Gunung Batur; a Maospahit shrine to honour Bali’s original Hindu
settlers (Majapahit); and a shrine to the taksu, who acts as an interpreter for the gods.
(Trance dancers or mediums may be used to convey the gods’ wishes.)
Bale Piasan Open pavilions used to display temple offerings.
Gedong Pesimpangan A stone building dedicated to the village founder or a local deity.
Paruman or Pepelik Open pavilion in the inner courtyard, where the gods are supposed
to assemble to watch the ceremonies of a temple festival.
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There are several variations on the typical family compound. For ex-
ample, the entrance is commonly on the kuah (sunset side), rather than
the kelod (away from the mountains and towards the sea) side, but never
on the kangin (sunrise) or kaja (in the direction of the mountains) side. The gate to
a traditional
Traditional Balinese homes are found in every region of the island; Balinese house is
Ubud remains an excellent place to see them simply because of the con- where the family
centration of homes there. Many accept guests. South of Ubud, you can gives cues as to
enjoy an in-depth tour of the Nyoman Suaka Home (p192) in Singapadu. its wealth. They
range from the
Temples humble – grass
thatch atop a
Every village in Bali has several temples, and every home has at least a gate of simple
simple house-temple. The Balinese word for temple is pura, from a San- stones or clay – Architecture Temples
skrit word literally meaning ‘a space surrounded by a wall’. Similar to a to the relatively
traditional Balinese home, a temple is walled in – so the shrines you see grand, including
in rice fields or at ‘magical’ spots such as old trees are not real temples. bricks heavily
Simple shrines or thrones often overlook crossroads, to protect passers-by. ornamented with
ornately carved
All temples are built on a mountains–sea orientation, not north–south. stone and a tile
The direction towards the mountains, kaja, is the end of the temple, roof.
where the holiest shrines are found. The temple’s entrance is at the kelod.
Kangin is more holy than the kuah, so many secondary shrines are on
the kangin side. Kaja may be towards a particular mountain – Pura Be-
sakih in east Bali is pointed directly towards Gunung Agung – or towards
the mountains in general, which run east–west along the length of Bali.
Temple Types
There are three basic temple types found in most villages. The most
important is the pura puseh (temple of origin), dedicated to the village
founders and at the kaja end of the village. In the middle of the village
is the pura desa, for the many spirits that protect the village community
in daily life. At the kelod end of the village is the pura dalem (temple of
the dead). The graveyard is also here, and the temple may include rep-
resentations of Durga, the terrible side of Shiva’s wife Parvati. Both Shiva
and Parvati have a creative and destructive side; their destructive powers
are honoured in the pura dalem.
Other temples include those dedicated to the spirits of irrigated agri-
culture. Because rice growing is so important in Bali, and the division of
water for irrigation is handled with the utmost care, these pura subak or
pura ulun suwi (temple of the rice-growers association) can be of consid-
erable importance. Other temples may also honour dry-field agriculture,
as well as the flooded rice paddies.
In addition to these ‘local’ temples, there are a lesser number of great hard-wearing
temples. Often a kingdom would have three of these temples that sit terracotta tiles
at the very top of the temple pecking order: a main state temple in the have been the
heartland of the state (such as Pura Taman Ayun (p263) in Mengwi, west- traditional roofing
material since
ern Bali); a mountain temple (such as Pura Besakih, eastern Bali); and a the dutch era.
sea temple (such as Pura Luhur Ulu Watu (p112), southern Bali). Thatch in various
Every house in Bali has its house-temple, which is at the kaja–kangin forms or bamboo
corner of the courtyard and has at least five shrines. are now reserved
for the most
traditional and
Temple Decoration ceremonial sites.
Temples and their decoration are closely linked on Bali. A temple gate-
way is not just erected; every square centimetre of it is carved in sculp-
tural relief and a diminishing series of demon faces is placed above it as
protection. Even then, it’s not complete without several stone statues to
act as guardians.
The level of decoration inside varies. Sometimes a temple is built with
minimal decoration in the hope that sculpture can be added when more
funds are available. The sculpture can also deteriorate after a few years
366
because much of the stone used is soft and the tropical climate ages it
very rapidly (that centuries-old temple you’re looking at may in fact be
less than 10 years old!). Sculptures are restored or replaced as resources
permit – it’s not uncommon to see a temple with old carvings, which are
barely discernible, next to newly finished work.
Sculpture often appears in set places in Bali’s temples. Door guardians –
representations of legendary figures such as Arjuna or other protective
personalities – flank the steps to the gateway. Above the main entrance
to a temple, Kala’s monstrous face often peers out, sometimes a number
of times, and his hands reach out beside his head to catch any evil spirits
foolish enough to try and sneak in.
Temple Design
Although overall temple architecture is similar in both northern and
southern Bali, there are some important differences. The inner court-
yards of southern temples usually house a number of meru (multitiered
Architecture Temples
TOP TEMPLE VISITS
Over 10,000 temples are found everywhere on Bali – from cliff tops and beaches to
volcanoes – and are often beautiful places to experience. Visitors will find the following
especially rewarding.
Directional Temples
Some temples are so important they are deemed to belong to the whole island rather
than particular communities. There are nine kahyangan jagat (directional temples) in-
cluding the following:
Pura Luhur Batukau (p241) One of Bali’s most important temples is situated magically
up the misty slopes of Gunung Batukau.
Pura Luhur Ulu Watu (p112) As important as it is popular, this temple has sweeping
Indian Ocean views, sunset dance performances and monkeys.
Pura Goa Lawah (p207) See Bali’s own Bat Cave at this cliff-side temple filled with the
winged critters.
Sea Temples
The legendary 16th-century priest Nirartha founded a chain of temples to honour the sea
gods. Each was intended to be within sight of the next, and several have dramatic loca-
tions on the south coast. They include the following:
Pura Rambu Siwi (p269) On a wild stretch of the west coast and not far from where
Nirartha arrived in the 16th century. Locks of his hair are said to be buried in a shrine.
Pura Tanah Lot (p263) Sacred as the day begins, it becomes a temple of mass tourism
at sunset.
Other Important Temples
Some temples have particular importance because of their location, spiritual function or
architecture. The following reward visitors:
Pura Maduwe Karang (p247) An agricultural temple on the north coast, this is famous
for its spirited bas-reliefs, including one of possibly Bali’s first bicycle rider.
Pura Pusering Jagat (p185) One of the famous temples at Pejeng, near Ubud, which
dates to the 14th-century empire that flourished here. It has an enormous bronze drum
from that era.
Pura Taman Ayun (p263) This vast and imposing state temple was a centrepiece of the
Mengwi empire and has been nominated for Unesco recognition.
Pura Tirta Empul (p187) The beautiful temple at Tampaksiring, with holy springs dis-
covered in AD 962 and bathing pools at the source of Sungai Pakerisan.
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THE POWER OF BAMBOO
Bali has always had natural cathedrals of bamboo. In the dense tropical forests of the
east and west, soaring stalks arch together in ways that lift the soul. Now bamboo, one of
the world’s great renewable resources, is being used to create soaring and inspirational
buildings whose sinuous designs are simply awe-inspiring.
Much credit for the current bamboo revolution goes to famed jeweller John Hardy,
who had bamboo used in the revolutionary structures that formed the landmark Green
School (map p190; www.greenschool.org; mambal) southwest of Ubud in 2007. People took
one look at the fabulous fantasy of its bridge and came away inspired. Since then bam-
boo’s use in buildings has taken off across Bali and there are some beautiful examples of
its use that go far beyond the old bamboo hut cliche of Gilligan’s Island. These include the
following:
Fivelements (p185) A health resort, not far from the Green School.
Power of Now Oasis (p122) A striking beachside yoga studio in Sanur. Architecture The BirTh oF Bali sT yle
Hai Bar & Grill (p141) A beachside bar on Nusa Lembongan.
Sardine (p90) The lauded restaurant on its own rice field in Kerobokan.
Finn’s Beach Club (p99) A high-style, upscale beach lounge and restaurant near
Canggu.
Big Tree Farms (p188) A huge temple to chocolate that’s also near the Green School.
shrines), together with other structures, whereas in the north, everything
is grouped on a single pedestal. On the pedestal you’ll find ‘houses’ for
the deities to use on their earthly visits; they’re also used to store reli-
gious relics.
While Balinese sculpture and painting were once exclusively used as
architectural decoration for temples, you’ll soon see that sculpture and
painting have developed as separate art forms influencing the look of look for carved
every aspect of the island. And the art of temple and shrine construction wooden garudas,
the winged bird
is as vibrant as ever: more than 500 new ones in all sizes are built every that bears the
month. god Wisnu, in the
most surprising
The Birth of Bali Style places – high up
Tourism has given Balinese architecture unprecedented exposure and it in pavilion rafters,
at the base of
seems that every visitor wants to take a slice of this island back home columns, pretty
with them. much anywhere.
Shops all around Denpasar churn out prefabricated, knock-down bale
for shipment to far-flung destinations: the Caribbean, London, Perth
and Hong Kong. Furniture workshops in Denpasar and handicraft vil-
lages near Ubud are flat out making ornaments for domestic and export
markets.
The craze stems back to the early 1970s, when Australian artist Don-
ald Friend formed a partnership with Manado-born Wija Waworuntu,
who had built the Tandjung Sari on Sanur beach a decade earlier. With
a directive to design traditional, village-style alternatives to the Western
multistoreyed hotels, they brought two architects to Bali – Australian Pe-
ter Muller and the late Sri Lankan Geoffrey Bawa – who took traditional
architecture and adapted it to Western standards of luxury.
Before long, the design sensation known as ‘Bali Style’ was born. Then,
the term reflected Muller and Bawa’s sensitive, low-key approach, giving
precedence to culture over style, and respect for traditional principles
and craftspeople, local renewable materials and age-old techniques. To-
day the development of a mass market has inevitably produced a much
looser definition.
368
Contemporary Hotel Design
For centuries, foreign interlopers, such as the priest Nirartha, have
played an intrinsic part in the island’s myths and legends. These days,
The rule that no tourists are making an impact on the serenity of Balinese cosmology and
building shall its seamless translation into the island’s traditional architecture. And
exceed the height while these visitors with large credit limits aren’t changing the island’s
of a coconut palm
dates back to belief system – much – they are changing its look.
the 1960s when Most hotel designs on Bali and Lombok are purely functional or
the 10-storey pastiches of traditional designs, but some of the finest hotels on the
Bali Beach hotel islands aspire to something greater. Notable examples in rough order of
caused much completion:
consternation.
however, soaring Tandjung Sari (p123) Located in Sanur, it is Wija Waworuntu’s classic prototype
land prices in the for the Balinese boutique beach hotel.
south and ineffec-
tual enforcement Amandari (p172) The crowning achievement of architect Peter Muller, who also
of building codes designed the two Oberois. Located near Ubud, the inclusion of traditional Balinese
mean that this materials, crafts and construction techniques, as well as Balinese design princi-
‘rule’ is being ples, respects the island’s approach to the world.
increasingly
challenged. Oberoi (p81) The very first luxury hotel, located in Seminyak, and remains Muller’s
relaxed vision of a Balinese village. The bale agung (village assembly hall) and bale
banjar form the basis for common areas.
Oberoi Lombok (p283) Both the most luxurious and the most traditionally styled
hotel on Lombok.
Amankila (p211) In east Bali, Amankila adopts a garden strategy, with a carefully
structured landscape of lotus ponds and floating pavilions that steps down an
impossibly steep site.
Architecture ConTemporary hoTel design
Hotel Tugu Bali (p97) In Canggu, exemplifies the notion of instant age, the ability
of materials in Bali to weather quickly and provide ‘pleasing decay’.
When you stay in Four Seasons Resort (p172) A striking piece of aerial sculpture near Ubud, with
a hotel featuring a huge elliptical lotus pond sitting above a base structure that appears like an
lumbung design,
you are really eroded and romantic ruin set within a spectacular river valley.
staying in a place Alila Villas Uluwatu (p114) In far south Bali, Alila employs an artful contemporary
derived from rice style that’s light and airy, conveying a sense of great luxury. Set amid hotel-tended
storage barns –
the 2nd floor rice fields, it embodies advanced green building principles.
is meant to be Katamana (p89) The same architectural derring-do that makes neighbouring Po-
airless and hot! tato Head much copied is on display at the club’s hotel. However, here the details
are lavish and artful. Designed by Indonesian Andra Martin, it’s a lavish confection
of Javanese bricks, Balinese stone and other indigenous materials.
Lombok Architecture
Traditional laws and practices govern Lombok’s architecture. Construc-
tion must begin on a propitious day, always with an odd-numbered date,
and the building’s frame must be completed on that day. It would be bad
luck to leave any of the important structural work until the following day.
A traditional Sasak village layout is a walled enclosure. There are
three types of buildings: the beruga (open-sided pavilion), the bale tani
(family house) and the lumbung (rice barn). The beruga and bale tani
are both rectangular, with low walls and a steeply pitched thatched roof;
of course, the beruga is much larger. A bale tani is made of bamboo on
a base of compacted mud. It usually has no windows and the arrange-
ment of rooms is very standardised. There is a serambi (open veranda)
at the front and two rooms on two different levels inside – one for cook-
ing and entertaining guests, the other for sleeping and storage. There
are some picturesque traditional Sasak villages in Rembitan and Sade,
near Kuta.
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
369
Environment
Bali has rich and varied natural environments which belie its relative small size. Volca-
noes, beaches and reefs are just some of the prominent features. Along with this are an
array of creatures, from ducks in the rice fields to one of the world’s rarest birds. Still,
with record tourism, the threats to these unique environments are many, but there’s
much each visitor can do to lessen their impact.
The Landscape
Bali is a small island, midway along the string of islands that makes up The Indonesian
the Indonesian archipelago. It’s adjacent to the most heavily populated Ecotourism Cen-
island of Java, and immediately west of the chain of smaller islands com- tre (www.indecon.
or.id) is devoted
prising Nusa Tenggara, which includes Lombok. to highlighting
The island is visually dramatic – a mountainous chain with a string responsible tour-
of active volcanoes and several peaks around 2000m. The agricultural ism; Bali Fokus
lands in Bali are south and north of the central mountains. The south- (http://balifokus.
ern region is a wide, gently sloping area, where most of the country’s asia) promotes
sustainable
abundant rice crop is grown. The northern coastal strip is narrower, community pro-
rising rapidly into the foothills of the central range. It receives less rain, grams on Bali
but coffee, copra, rice and cattle are farmed there. Bali also has beaches for recycling and
in all shapes, characters and colours. From hidden coves to dramatic reuse.
sweeps, from lonely strands to party scenes, from pearly white to spar-
kling black.
Bali’s arid, less-populated regions include the western mountain re-
gion, and the eastern and northeastern slopes of Gunung Agung. The
Nusa Penida islands are dry, and cannot support intensive rice agricul-
ture. The Bukit Peninsula is similarly dry, but with the growth of tourism,
it’s become very populous.
Volcanoes
Bali is volcanically active and extremely fertile. The two go hand-in-
hand as eruptions contribute to the land’s exceptional fertility, and high
mountains provide the dependable rainfall that irrigates Bali’s complex
and amazingly beautiful patchwork of rice terraces. Of course, the vol-
canoes are a hazard as well – Bali has endured disastrous eruptions in
the past, such as in 1963, and no doubt will again in the future. Gunung
Agung, the ‘Mother Mountain’, is 3142m high and thickly wooded on
its southern side. You can climb it or its steam-spewing neighbour, the
comparatively diminutive 1717m Gunung Batur. The latter is a geo-
graphic spectacle: a soaring, active volcano rising from a lake that itself
is set in a vast crater.
Animals & Plants
Since Bali is geologically young, most of its living things have migrated
from elsewhere and true native wild animals are rare. This is not hard to
imagine in the heavily populated and extravagantly fertile south of Bali,
where the orderly rice terraces are so intensively cultivated they look
more like a work of sculpture than a natural landscape.
370
In fact, rice fields cover only about 20% of the island’s surface area,
and there is a great variety of other environmental zones: the dry scrub
of the northwest, the extreme northeast and the southern peninsula;
patches of dense jungle in the river valleys; forests of bamboo; and
harsh volcanic regions that are barren rock and volcanic tuff at higher
Balinese Flora
& Fauna (1999), altitudes.
published by Wild Animals
Periplus, is a
concise and Bali has lots and lots of lizards, and they come in all shapes and sizes.
beautifully illus- The small ones (onomatopoeically called cecak) that hang around light
trated guide to fittings in the evening, waiting for an unwary insect, are a familiar sight.
the animals and
plants you’ll see Geckos are lizards often heard but less often seen. The loud and regularly
on your travels. repeated two-part cry ‘geck-oh’ is a nightly background noise that many
The feature on visitors soon enjoy.
the ecology of Bali has more than 300 species of birds, but the one that is truly native
a rice field is to the island is the Bali starling. Much more common are colourful birds
excellent.
such as the orange-banded thrush, numerous species of egrets, kingfish-
ers, parrots, owls and many more.
Bali’s only wilderness area, Bali Barat National Park (West Bali Na-
tional Park), has a number of wild species, including grey and black
monkeys (which you will also see in the mountains, Ubud and east Bali),
muncak (barking deer), squirrels, bats and iguanas.
EnvironmEnt AnImAls & Pl AnTs
Marine Animals
There is a rich variety of coral, seaweed, fish and other marine life in the
coastal waters off the islands; in fact Indonesia’s entire marine territory
has been declared a manta ray sanctuary. Much of the marine life can be
appreciated by snorkellers, but you’re only likely to see the larger marine
animals while diving.
RESPONSIBLE TRAVEL
To visit Indonesia responsibly, try to tread lightly as you go, with respect for both the land
and the diverse cultures of its people.
Watch your use of water Water demand outstrips supply in much of Indonesia – even
at seemingly green places like Bali. Take your hotel up on its offer to save water by not
washing your sheets and towels every day. At the high end you can also forgo your own
private plunge pool, or a pool altogether.
Don’t hit the bottle Those bottles of Aqua (a top local brand of bottled water, owned by
Danone) are convenient but they add up. The zillions of such bottles tossed away each
year are a serious blight. Since tap water is unsafe, ask your hotel if you can refill from
their huge containers of drinking water. Some enlightened businesses already offer this
service.
Support environmentally aware businesses The number of businesses committed to
good environmental practices is growing fast in Indonesia.
Conserve power Turn off lights and air-con when not using them.
Bag the bags Refuse plastic bags, and say no to plastic straws too.
Leave the animals be Reconsider swimming with captive dolphins, riding elephants,
and patronising attractions where wild animals are made to perform for crowds, inter-
actions that have been identified by animal welfare experts as harmful to the animals.
And don’t try to pet, feed or otherwise interact with animals in the wild as it disrupts their
natural behaviour and can make them sick.
371
BALI STARLING
Also known as the Bali myna, Rothschild’s mynah, or locally as jalak putih, the Bali star-
ling is perhaps Bali’s only endemic bird (opinions differ – as other places are so close,
who can tell?). It is striking white in colour, with black tips to the wings and tail, and a dis-
tinctive bright-blue mask. These natural good looks have caused the bird to be poached
into virtual extinction. The wild population is thought to number under 100. In captivity,
however, there are hundreds if not thousands.
Near Ubud, the Bali Bird Park (p192) has large aviaries where you can see Bali star-
lings. The park was one of the major supporters of efforts to reintroduce the birds into
the wild. Efforts to reintroduce the species include a breeding program run by the NGO
Friends of the National Parks Foundation (p146) on Nusa Penida. EnvironmEnt AnImAls & Pl AnTs
Dolphins
Dolphins can be found right around the islands and have been made
into an attraction off Lovina. But you’re just as likely to see schools of
dolphins if you take a fast boat between Bali and the Gilis.
Sharks
There are very occasional reports of large sharks, including great whites,
throughout the region, although they are not considered a massive
threat.
Fish
Smaller fish and corals can be found at a plethora of spots around the The plight of
islands. Everybody’s favourite first stop is Bali’s Menjangan. Fish as large Bali’s dogs and
as whale sharks have been reported, but what thrills scores daily are the the irony of the
coloured beauty of an array of corals, sponges, lacy sea fans and much important role
more. Starfish abound and you’ll easily spot clownfish and other poly- they play in island
life is captured
chromatic characters. by filmmakers
lawrence Blair
Plants and Dean Allan
Tolhurst in Bali:
Trees Island of the Dogs
Much of the island is cultivated. As with most things in Bali, trees have (2010).
a spiritual and religious significance, and you’ll often see them decorat-
ed with scarves and black-and-white chequered cloths (poleng, a cloth
signifying spiritual energy) signifying their sacred status. The waringin
(banyan tree) is the holiest Balinese tree and no important temple is
complete without a stately one growing within its precincts. The ban-
yan is an extensive, shady tree with an exotic feature: creepers that drop
from its branches take root to propagate a new tree. Jepun (frangipani
or plumeria trees), with their beautiful and sweet-smelling white flowers,
are found everywhere.
Bali’s forests cover 127,000 hectares, ranging from virgin land to tree
farms to densely forested mountain villages. The total is constantly un-
der threat from wood poaching for carved souvenirs and cooking fuel,
and from development.
Bali has monsoonal rather than tropical rainforests, so it lacks the val-
uable rainforest hardwoods that require rain year-round. Nearly all the
hardwood used for carving furniture and high-end artwork is imported
from Sumatra and Kalimantan.
372
SEA TURTLES
Both green and hawksbill turtles inhabit the waters around Bali, and both species are
supposedly protected by international laws that prohibit trade in anything made from
sea turtles.
In Bali, however, green sea turtle meat (penyu) is a traditional and very popular del-
icacy, particularly for Balinese feasts. Bali is the site of the most intensive slaughter of
green sea turtles in the world – no reliable figures are available, although in 1999 it was
estimated that more than 30,000 are killed annually. It’s easy to find the trade on the
backstreets of waterside towns such as Benoa.
Still, some progress is being made, especially by groups like ProFauna (www.profauna.
net), which is raising awareness on Bali about sea turtles and other animals across
Indonesia.
A broad coalition of divers and journalists supports the SOS Sea Turtles (www.
sos-seaturtles.ch) campaign, which spotlights turtle abuse in Bali. It has been instrumen-
tal in exposing the illegal poaching of turtles at Wakatobi National Park in Sulawesi for
sale in Bali. This illegal trade is widespread and, like the drug trade, hard to prevent. Bali’s
Hindu Dharma, the body overseeing religious practice, has decreed that turtle meat is
essential in only very vital ceremonies.
Some turtle hatcheries open to the public do a good job of educating locals about the
need to protect turtles and think of them as living creatures (as opposed to satay), but
EnvironmEnt AnImAls & Pl AnTs
these operations have their own complexities, and many environmentalists are opposed
to them because they keep captive turtles. There are also hatcheries that are ostensibly
conservationist, but in reality are run as commercial tourist attractions with little concern
for the welfare of the turtles. Environmental groups recommend you do not visit certain
hatcheries in Tangung Benoa and around Sanur.
Two that win praise are the Bali Sea Turtle Society (p52) in Kuta and Proyek Penyu
(p254) in Pemuteran.
On Nusa Penida, volunteers can join the efforts of Green Lion Bali (p146), which runs a
turtle hatchery.
A number of plants have great practical and economic significance.
Tiing (bamboo) is grown in several varieties and is used for everything
from satay sticks to hip and stylish resorts.
Flowers & Gardens
Balinese gardens are a delight. The soil and climate can support a huge
range of plants, and the Balinese love of beauty and the abundance of
One hawksbill cheap labour means that every space can be landscaped. The style is
turtle that visited generally informal, with curved paths, a rich variety of plants and usually
Bali was tracked a water feature. Who can’t be enchanted by a frangipani tree dropping a
the following year. carpet of fragrant blossoms?
He travelled to
Java, Kalimantan, You can find almost every type of flower in Bali, but some are season-
Australia (Perth al and others are restricted to the cooler mountain areas. Many of the
and much of flowers will be familiar to visitors – hibiscus, bougainvillea, poinsettia,
Queensland) and oleander, jasmine, water lily and aster are commonly seen in the south-
then back to Bali. ern tourist areas.
Less-familiar flowers include Javanese ixora (soka, angsoka), with
round clusters of red-orange flowers; champak (cempaka), a fragrant
member of the magnolia family; flamboyant, the flower of the royal poin-
ciana flame tree; manori (maduri), which has several traditional uses;
and water convolvulus (kangkung), whose leaves are commonly used as
a green vegetable. There are thousands of species of orchid.
Bali’s climate means that gardens planted today look mature – com-
plete with soaring shade trees – in just a couple of years. Good places to
373
see Bali’s plant bounty include Bali Botanical Garden (p236), Bali Or-
chid Garden (p121) and the many plant nurseries (north from Sanur and
along the road to Denpasar).
Environmental Issues
Bali
Fast-growing populations, limited resources, pressure from the increas-
ing number of visitors and lax or nonexistent environmental regulations
mean that Bali is under great threat. And some of Bali’s environmental
worries are larger than the island: climate change is causing increased
water levels that are damaging the coast and beaches.
Meanwhile, a fast-growing population in Bali has put pressure on Despite water
limited resources. The tourist industry has attracted new residents, and shortages, villa
there is a rapid growth in urban areas and of resorts and villas that en- construction and
croach onto agricultural land. Concerns include: other loss of rice EnvironmEnt EnvIrOnmEnTAl IssuEs
fields, Bali’s rice
Water Usage A major concern. Typical top-end hotels uses 1000 to 1500 litres production hit a
of water a day per room, and the growing number of golf courses – the ones on record in 2013
the arid Bukit Peninsula in the Pecatu Indah development and at Nusa Dua, for (the last year with
example – put further pressure on an already stressed resource. The many huge detailed records
available) of
new resorts on the Bukit’s south coast are also massive water users. 822,115 tonnes.
Water pollution A major problem, both from deforestation brought on by firewood With island
collecting in the mountains, and lack of proper treatment for the waste produced consumption at
455,000 tonnes,
by the local population. Streams that run into the ocean at popular spots like Dou- that keeps Bali as
ble Six Beach in Legian are very polluted, often with waste water from hotels. The a rice exporter.
vast mangroves along the south coast near Benoa Harbour are losing their ability
to filter the water that drains here from much of the island and are themselves
threatened with development.
Air pollution As anyone stuck behind a smoke-belching truck or bus on one of the
main roads knows, south Bali’s air is often smoggy. The view of south Bali from a
hillside shows a brown blanket hanging in the air that could be LA in the 1960s.
Waste The problem is not just all those plastic bags and water bottles but the
sheer volume of waste produced by the growing population – what to do with it?
The Balinese look with sadness at the enormous amounts of waste – especially
plastic – that have accumulated in their once pristine rivers.
On the upside, there is a nascent effort to grow rice and other foods or-
ganically. A sewage treatment program in the south is finally operating
THE WALLACE LINE
The 19th-century naturalist Sir Alfred Wallace (1822–1913) observed great differences in
fauna between Bali and Lombok – as great as the differences between Africa and South
America. In particular, there were no large mammals (elephants, rhinos, tigers etc) east
of Bali, and very few carnivores. He postulated that during the ice ages, when sea levels
were lower, animals could have moved by land from what is now mainland Asia all the
way to Bali, but the deep Lombok Strait would always have been a barrier. He drew a line
between Bali and Lombok, which he believed marked the biological division between Asia
and Australia.
Plant life does not display such a sharp division, but there is a gradual transition from
predominantly Asian rainforest species to mostly Australian plants, such as eucalypts
and acacias, which are better suited to long, dry periods. This is associated with the low-
er rainfall as one moves east of Java. Environmental differences – including those in the
natural vegetation – are now thought to provide a better explanation of the distribution
of animal species than Wallace’s theory about limits to their original migrations.
374
GROWING RICE
Rice cultivation has shaped the social landscape in Bali – the intricate organisation nec-
essary for growing rice is a large factor in the strength of community life. Rice cultivation
has also changed the environmental landscape – terraced rice fields trip down hillsides
like steps for a giant, in shades of gold, brown and green, green and more green. Some
date back 1000 years or more.
Subak, the village association that deals with water rights and irrigation, makes careful
use of all the surface water. The fields are a complete ecological system, home for much
more than just rice. In the early morning you’ll often see the duck herders leading their
flocks out for a day’s paddle around a flooded rice field; the ducks eat various pests and
leave fertiliser in their wake.
A harvested field with its leftover burnt rice stalks is soaked with water and repeat-
edly ploughed, often by two bullocks pulling a wooden plough. Once the field is muddy
enough, a small corner is walled off and seedling rice is planted there. When it is a rea-
sonable size, it’s replanted, shoot by shoot, in the larger field. While the rice matures,
there is time to practise the gamelan, watch the dancers or do a little woodcarving. Final-
ly, the whole village turns out for the harvest – a period of solid hard work. While it’s only
men who plant the rice, everybody takes part in harvesting it.
In 1969, new high-yield rice varieties were introduced. These can be harvested a
month sooner than the traditional variety and are resistant to many diseases. However,
the new varieties also require more fertiliser and irrigation water, which strains the im-
perilled water supplies. More pesticides are also needed, causing the depletion of the
EnvironmEnt EnvIrOnmEnTAl IssuEs
frog and eel populations that depend on the insects for survival.
Although everyone agrees that the new rice doesn’t taste as good as the traditional
rice, the new strains now account for more than 90% of the rice grown in Bali. Small
areas of traditional rice are still planted and harvested in traditional ways to placate the
rice goddess, Dewi Sri. Temples and offerings to her dot every rice field.
Recently, a few farmers have been trying to grow organic rice and you may see it on
menus in top restaurants and at better markets.
in a few areas but businesses are objecting to the costs and refusing to
connect.
A study showed In Pemuteran, artificial reef-growing programs have won universal
that the average praise. This is important as a study by the World Wide Fund for Nature
occupied hotel found that less than 5% of Bali’s reefs were fully healthy.
room in south
Bali accounted Lombok
for 1000 to 1500
litres of water a On Lombok, environmental disaster in the gold rush town of Sekotong
day for use by its is ongoing. Gold mining using mercury in huge open-cast pits is causing
occupants and enormous damage to once-pristine areas. Development in the south, es-
to service their
needs. In contrast pecially around the beaches in the Kuta region, is accelerating with often
the average local enormous and unchecked environmental effects.
required less than Coastal erosion is a problem here, just as it is on Bali. The Gilis are nat-
120l a day for all urally concerned. On the plus side, the reefs around the Gilis have been
needs. quick to recover as tourism has spurred intense preservation efforts.
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Survival
Guide
DIRECTORY A–Z . . . .376 Disabilities . . . . . . . . . . . . . 384
Accommodation . . . . . . . . .376 Visas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 384
Climate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .378 Volunteering . . . . . . . . . . . 385
Customs Women Travellers . . . . . . . 385
Regulations . . . . . . . . . . . . .378
Electricity . . . . . . . . . . . . . .378 TRANSPORT . . . . . . .386
Embassies & GETTING THERE
Consulates . . . . . . . . . . . . 379 & AWAY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .386
Etiquette . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 379 Air . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 386
Food & Drink . . . . . . . . . . . 379 Land . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 387
Insurance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 379 Sea . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 387
Internet Access . . . . . . . . . 379
Language Courses . . . . . . 379 GETTING AROUND . . . . . . .387
Legal Matters . . . . . . . . . . 379 Bemo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 387
Bicycle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 389
LGBT Travellers . . . . . . . . . 380
Money . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 380 Bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 389
Opening Hours . . . . . . . . . .381 Car & Motorcycle . . . . . . . 389
Post . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .381 Hitching . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .391
Public Holidays . . . . . . . . . .381 Local Transport . . . . . . . . . .391
Safe Travel . . . . . . . . . . . . . .381 Tours . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 392
Telephone . . . . . . . . . . . . . 383
Time . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 383 HEALTH . . . . . . . . . . .393
Toilets . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 384 BEFORE YOU GO . . . . . . . . .393
Tourist IN BALI & LOMBOK . . . . . .394
Information . . . . . . . . . . . . 384
Travellers with LANGUAGE . . . . . . . .398
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
376
Directory A–Z
associated pros and cons. Many are built in the style of
Accommodation Local agents include the a traditional Balinese home.
There are budget hotels all
Bali has a huge range of following: over Bali, and they vary wide-
great-value accommodation Bali Discovery (%0361- ly in standards and price.
for any budget. If visiting in 286283; www.balidiscovery. Expect:
the peak periods of August com) The main local source for
and Christmas, book three or hotel deals (it’s always worth ¨ Maybe air-con
more months ahead. comparing their rates to the ¨ Maybe hot water
Resorts Bali has some of the major websites); also books ¨ Private bathroom with
villas.
world’s best resorts and at prices shower and Western-style
that would be a bargain else- Bali Private Villas (%0361-844 toilet
where. You can be on the beach or 4344; www.baliprivatevillas. ¨ Often a pool
nestled in a lush mountain valley. com) Handles a variety of top- ¨ Simple breakfast
end villas.
Villas Enjoy a sybaritic escape
and a private pool. Bali Ultimate Villas (%0851 ¨ Carefree and cheery staff
0057 1658; www.baliultimatevil-
Hotels Many of Bali’s hundreds las.net) A villa agent that also International budget chains
are making a splashy entry
of hotels are located near the offers wedding services. into south Bali, but note that
action and offer good deals. a tiny US$9 room quickly hits
Homestays & guesthouses Hotels US$40 when you add various
Bali’s family-run accommodation Pretty much every place extras such as taxes and fees
is comfortable and puts you to stay on Bali can arrange for items included elsewhere
right in the middle of fascinating tours, car rental and other like internet and towels.
local life. services. Laundry service is
universally available, often MIDRANGE HOTELS
Booking Services cheap and sometimes free. Older midrange hotels are
Websites such as homeaway. often constructed in Balinese
com and airbnb.com have BUDGET HOTELS bungalow style or in two-sto-
hundreds of listings for Bali The cheapest accommoda- rey blocks and are set on
villas and private accommo- tion on Bali is in small places spacious grounds with a
dation. However, many listed that are simple but clean and pool. Many have a sense of
properties are not licensed, comfortable. Names often style that is beguiling and
which makes for an unreg- include the word ‘losmen’, may help postpone your
ulated market with all the ‘homestay’, ‘inn’ or ‘pondo’. departure. In addition to
what you’ll get at a budget
hotel, expect:
SLEEPING PRICE RANGES
¨ Balcony, porch or patio
The following price ranges refer to a double room with ¨ Satellite TV
a bathroom. Unless otherwise stated taxes are included ¨ Small fridge
in the price.
¨ Often wi-fi
$ less than 450,000Rp (under US$35) Note that dozens of mid-
$$ 450,000–1,400,000Rp (US$35-100) range chain hotels have
appeared across south Bali.
$$$ more than 1,400,000Rp (over US$100) Rooms are often small and
377
the sites cramped, although overnight. The villa boom has ¨ Your own staff (cook,
standards are reliable. But been quite controversial for driver, cleaner)
beware of properties far from environmental, aesthetic and ¨ Lush grounds
the beach and nightlife. economic reasons. Many skip
collecting government taxes ¨ Private beachfront
TOP-END HOTELS from guests, which has raised ¨ Isolation (which can be
Top-end hotels and resorts in the ire of their luxury hotel good or bad)
Bali are world-class. Service competitors and brought Rates range from under
is refined and you can expect threats of crackdowns. US$200 per night for a
decor plucked from the Large villas can be bac- modest villa to US$2000 per
pages of a glossy magazine, chanalian retreats for groups week and beyond for your
along with the following: of friends, such as those own tropical estate. There
¨ Superb service found in the Canggu area. are often deals, especially in
Others are smaller, more
¨ Views – ocean, lush valleys intimate and part of larger the low season, and several
and rice fields or private developments – common in couples sharing can make Directory A–Z AccoMModATion
gardens Seminyak and Kerobokan – something grand affordable.
You can sometimes save
¨ Spa or top-end hotels. Expect the quite a bit by waiting until the
¨ Maybe a private pool following: last minute, but during the
¨ Not wanting to leave ¨ Private garden high season the best villas
¨ Private pool book up far in advance.
Villas ¨ Kitchen
Villas are scattered around ¨ Air-con bedroom(s) VILLA RENTAL QUESTIONS
south Bali and Ubud, and are It’s the Wild West out there.
now appearing in the east. ¨ Open-air common space There are myriad agents,
They’re often built in the mid- Villas will also potentially some excellent, others not.
dle of rice paddies, seemingly include: It is essential to be as clear
HOTELS TOO FAR
When booking a south Bali hotel room, be careful where you book. As tourist numbers on
Bali have exploded, so have the number of chain hotels. The number of available rooms
has doubled since 2005. The boom in building large hotels in Kuta, Legian, Seminyak,
Kerobokan and now Canggu is changing the area’s character in fundamental ways, espe-
cially as the many family-run, cheap and cheerful small inns are pushed out.
While some of these large new hotels are appearing in traditionally appealing areas
of south Bali, not far from the beaches and nightlife, scores more are opening far from
the areas visitors consider desirable. Many chains have properties in both good and un-
appealing areas and it is easy to get misled about a hotel’s actual location, especially on
booking websites. In the tradition of real estate agents everywhere, ‘Seminyak’ is now the
address used for hotels far into Denpasar.
So when you see that great web bargain of a midrange room for US$40, carefully con-
sider the following:
¨ Anything west of the Jl Legian–Jl Seminyak–Jl Kerobokan spine will be close to both
beaches and nightlife.
¨ East of the spine and things begin to get inconvenient fast. There will be less to walk to,
beaches can be far and cruising cabs hard to come by.
¨ Jl Ngurah Rai Bypass and Jl Sunset are both noisy major streets that lack charm
and are hard to cross. Many new chain hotels are located right on these traffic-choked
thoroughfares.
¨ East of Jl Ngurah Rai Bypass and Jl Sunset and you are deep into suburban Denpasar,
where it will be hard to find cabs or much else you’ll be interested in.
¨ In Sanur, which is also getting an influx of chain hotels, Jl Ngurah Rai Bypass should be
your absolute western border in your room hunt.
¨ With careful shopping, you can usually find great room deals in the most appealing
parts of south Bali, and often you can end up at a small or family-run guesthouse with
oodles more charm and character than a generic cheap hotel.
378
Surfers with more than two or
BOOK YOUR STAY ONLINE three boards may be charged
a fee, and this can apply to
For more accommodation reviews by Lonely Planet other items if the officials
authors, check out http://lonelyplanet.com/hotels/. suspect that you intend to
You’ll find independent reviews, as well as recommen- sell them in Indonesia. There
dations on the best places to stay. Best of all, you can is no restriction on foreign
book online. currency, but the import or
export of rupiah is limited
to 5,000,000Rp. Greater
as possible about what ¨ Noticeboards in popular amounts must be declared.
you want when arranging a cafes such as Bali Bhudda in
rental. Some things to keep Ubud and Umalas plus the
in mind and ask about when many Cafe Mokas. Bintang Electricity
renting a villa: supermarkets in Seminyak
¨ How far is the villa from the and Ubud are also good.
beach and stores? ¨ Word of mouth. Tell your
¨ Is a driver or car service new Bali friends you’re
included? looking, as everybody seems
to know someone with a
¨ If there is a cook, is food place for rent.
included?
¨ Is there an electricity Village Stays
surcharge? A good way to arrange a vil-
¨ Are there extra cleaning lage stay is through the JED
fees? (Village Ecotourism network;
%0361-366 9951; www.jed.
¨ Is laundry included? or.id; tours us$75-150) Village
Directory A–Z cusToMs REgul ATions
¨ What refunds apply on a Ecotourism Network. Anoth-
standard 50% deposit? er good option is the Bali
¨ Is there wi-fi and is it free? Homestay Program (%0817
067 1788; www.bali-homestay.
Long-Term com; Jegu; 2 nights all-inclusive
Accommodation s/d from us$185/330) S,
For longer stays, you can find north of Tabanan. Type C
flats for US$300 to US$1200 220V/50Hz
a month and much more. Customs
Sources include: Regulations
¨ Facebook groups. There
are scores with rentals on Indonesia’s list of prohibited
Bali; Bali Rooms for Rent imports includes drugs,
(www.facebook.com/ weapons, fresh fruit and any-
baliroomsforrent) is one thing remotely pornographic.
large board. You can also Items allowed include:
try looking for groups with ¨ 200 cigarettes (or 50
names like ‘[name of town] cigars or 100g of tobacco)
Housing’. ¨ a ‘reasonable amount’ of
¨ Bali Advertiser (www. perfume
baliadvertiser.biz) ¨ 1L of alcohol
Climate
Denpasar
°C/°F Temp Rainfall inches/mm
40/104 20/500
16/400
30/86
12/300
20/68
8/200 Type F
10/50
4/100 220V/50Hz
-0/32 0
J F M A M J J A S O N D
379
camera gear, and refunds are
PRACTICALITIES often for depreciated value,
not replacement value.
¨ Bali has a smoking ban that covers most tourist Worldwide travel insur-
facilities, markets, shops, restaurants, hotels, taxis and ance is available at www.
more. In practice, adoption is uneven. lonely planet.com/travel-in-
surance. You can buy, extend
¨ Indonesia uses the metric system. and claim online anytime –
even if you’re already on the
road.
Body language use both
Embassies & hands when handing somebody
Consulates something. don’t show displays Internet Access
of affection in public, or talk with
Foreign embassies are in your hands on your hips (it’s ¨ Free wi-fi is common in
Jakarta, the national cap- seen as a sign of aggression). cafes, restaurants, hotels
ital. Most of the foreign Clothing Avoid showing a lot of and malls. Internet cafes are
representatives in Bali are skin, although many local men uncommon.
consular agents (or honorary wear shorts. don’t go topless if ¨ Internet speeds are Directory A–Z EMBAssiEs & consul ATEs
consuls) who can’t offer you’re a woman at any pool or reasonably fast, especially in
the same services as a full beach. south Bali and Ubud.
consulate or embassy. A lost
passport may mean a trip to Photography Before taking ¨ 3G data and faster is
an embassy in Jakarta. photos of someone, ask – or universal.
The US, Australia and Ja- mime – for approval.
pan have formal consulates Places of worship Be respectful
in Bali (citizens from these in sacred places. Remove shoes Language Courses
countries make up half of all and dress modestly when visiting Many visitors to Bali like to
visitors). temples and mosques. learn at least the basics of
Indonesian embassies and
consulates abroad are listed Bahasa Indonesia. South
Bali and Ubud have many
on the website of Indonesia’s Food & Drink tutors who advertise in the
Ministry of Foreign Affairs same places you’ll find rental
(www.kemlu.go.id). There For an overview of Balinese listings. Otherwise, the best
is a handy search function cuisine, see p342. place for courses in Bahasa
under the ‘Mission’ menu Indonesia is the Indonesia
item, which also gives con- Australia Language Foun-
tact details for other nation’s Insurance dation (iAlF; %0361-225243;
embassies and contacts in www.ialf.edu; Jl Raya sesetan
Indonesia. A travel-insurance policy to 190, denpasar).
cover theft, loss and medical
Australian Consulate (Map problems is essential. There
p130; %0361-241118; www.bali. is a wide variety of policies,
indonesia.embassy.gov.au; Jl most sold online; make Legal Matters
Tantular 32, denpasar; h8am- certain your policy will cover
4pm Mon-Fri) The Australian speedy medical evacuation The Indonesian government
consulate has a consular sharing from anywhere in Indonesia. takes the smuggling, using
agreement with canada. Theft is a potential prob- and selling of drugs very
Japanese Consulate (Map lem on Bali and elsewhere in seriously and the drug laws
p130; %0361-227628; www. Indonesia, so make sure that are unambiguous. If caught
denpasar.id.emb-japan.go.jp; Jl your policy covers expensive with drugs, you may have
Raya Puputan 170, denpasar; items adequately. Many to wait for up to six months
h10am-3pm Mon-Fri) policies have restrictions in jail before trial. As seen in
high-profile cases involving
US Consulate (%0361-233605; on laptops and expensive foreigners, multiyear prison
https://id.usembassy.gov; Jl
Hayam Wuruk 310, Renon, den-
pasar; h9am-noon & 1-3.30pm EATING PRICE RANGES
Mon-Fri)
The following price ranges represent the average cost of
a main course or meal.
Etiquette $ less than 60,000Rp (under US$6)
Indonesia is a pretty relaxed $$ 60,000–250,000Rp (US$6–25)
place, but there are a few
rules of etiquette. $$$ more than 250,000Rp (over US$25)
380
terms are common for peo- by the less polite term banci.
ple caught with illegal drugs, LGBT Travellers Islamic groups proscribe
including marijuana. Those homosexuality, but physical
found guilty of dealing can be Bali is a popular spot for harassment is uncommon.
subject to the death penalty. LGBT travellers owing to
Gambling is illegal (al- the many ways it caters to Resources
though it’s common, espe- a rainbow of visitors. There ¨ GAYa Nusantara (www.
cially at cockfights), as is is a large gay and lesbian gayanusantara.or.id) has
pornography. expat community and many a very useful website that
Generally, you are unlikely own businesses that – if covers local LGBT issues.
to have any encounters with not gay-specific – are very ¨ Bali’s gay organisation
the police unless you are driv- gay-friendly. In south Bali is Gaya Dewata (www.
ing a rented car or motorcycle. and Ubud, couples have few gayadewata.com).
In Bali, there are police sta- concerns, beyond remem-
tions in all district capitals. If bering that the Balinese are
you have to report a crime or quite modest. Otherwise,
have other business at a po- there’s a rollicking strip of Money
lice station, expect a lengthy very gay-friendly nightclubs ATMs are common and
and bureaucratic encounter. in the heart of Seminyak, it’s easy to exchange
You should dress respectably, although there’s no part of money. Credit cards are
bring someone to help with Bali any LGBT person should accepted at more expensive
translation, arrive early and avoid. establishments.
be polite. You can also call the Having said that, gay
Bali Tourist Police (%0361- travellers in Bail (and In- ATMs
224111) for advice. donesia) should follow the There are ATMs all over Bali
Directory A–Z lgBT TRAVEllERs
Some police officers may same precautions as straight and in nonrural areas of
expect to receive bribes, travellers: avoid public dis- Lombok. Notable exceptions
either to overlook some plays of affection. However, include Nusa Lembongan.
crime, misdemeanour or as the nation becomes more Most accept nonlocal ATM
traffic infringement (whether conservative, any form of cards and major credit cards
actual or not), or to provide closeness between people of for cash advances.
a service that they should the same sex may be unwise.
provide anyway. Generally, On Lombok, LGBT travellers ¨ The exchange rates for
it’s easiest to pay up – and should refrain from public ATM withdrawals are usually
the sooner this happens, the displays of affection (advice quite good, but check to see
less it will cost. Travellers that also applies to straight if your home bank will hit you
may be told there’s a ‘fine’ to couples). with outrageous fees.
pay on the spot, while others Gay men in Indonesia ¨ Most ATMs allow a
may offer to pay a ‘fine’ to are referred to as homo maximum withdrawal of one
clear things up. How much? or gay; lesbians are lesbi. million rupiah.
Generally, 50,000Rp can Indonesia’s community of ¨ ATMs have stickers
work wonders and the of- transvestite and transsexual indicating whether they issue
ficers are not proud. If things waria – from the words wani- 50,000Rp or 100,000Rp
seem unreasonable, however, ta (woman) and pria (man) – notes (the former are
ask for the officer’s name has always had a very public easier to use for small
and write it down. profile; they are also known
transactions).
¨ Most ATMs return your
STOPPING CHILD-SEX TOURISM card last instead of before
dispensing cash, so it’s easy
Strong laws exist in Indonesia to prosecute people seek- to forget your card.
ing to sexually exploit local children, and many countries
also have extraterritorial legislation which allows na- Credit Cards
tionals to be prosecuted in their own country for these Accepted at midrange and
crimes. better hotels and resorts.
Travellers can help stop child-sex tourism by report- More expensive restaurants
ing suspicious behaviour. Reports can be made to the and shops will also accept
them, but there is often a
Anti Human Trafficking Unit (%021-721 8098) of the surcharge of around 3%.
Indonesian police. If you know the nationality of the
individual, you can contact their embassy directly. Money Changers
Humantrafficking.org (www.humantrafficking.org) is US dollars are by far the easi-
an international group with numerous links to groups est currency to exchange. Try
working to prevent human exploitation in Indonesia. to have new US$100 bills.
381
Follow these steps to avoid
getting ripped off when ex- RUPIAH REDENOMINATION
changing money:
¨ Find out the going Indonesia has plans to redenominate the rupiah by
exchange rate online. Know removing three digits from the currency, although the
that anyone offering a better timing of this has been debated for years. For example,
rate or claiming to charge the 20,000Rp note would become the 20Rp note. The
no fees or commissions exchange value of the new notes would remain the same.
will need to make a profit Changing the national currency is likely to be a very
through other means. complex process.
¨ Stick to banks, airport
exchange counters or large
and reputable operations Government offices 8am to endar, so the following are
such as the Central Kuta 3pm Monday to Thursday, 8am estimates only.
Money Exchange (www. to noon Friday (although these Tahun Baru Masehi (new Year’s Directory A–Z oPEning HouRs
centralkutabali.com), which are not standardised) day) 1 January
has locations across south Post offices 8am to 2pm Mon-
Bali and Ubud. day to Friday, longer in tourist Tahun Baru Imlek (chinese
new Year) late January to early
¨ Avoid exchange stalls centres February
down alleys or in otherwise Restaurants & cafes 8am to
dubious locations (that 10pm daily Wafat Yesus Kristus (good
sounds obvious but scores of Shops & services catering to Friday) late March or early April
tourists are ripped off daily). visitors 9am to 8pm or later Hari Buruh (labour day) 1 May
¨ Common exchange scams daily Hari Waisak (Buddha’s birth,
include rigged calculators, enlightenment and death) May
sleight-of-hand schemes, Kenaikan Yesus Kristus (Ascen-
‘mistakes’ on the posted Post sion of christ) May
rates, and demands that you
hand over your money before Every substantial town has Hari Proklamasi Kemerdekaan
you have counted the money a kantor pos (post office). (independence day) 17 August
on offer. In tourist centres, there are Hari Natal (christmas day) 25
¨ Use an ATM to obtain also postal agencies, which december
rupiah. provide postal services and The following Islamic holi-
are often open long hours.
Tipping Sending postcards and nor- days are celebrated by Bali’s
large Muslim population; in
¨ Tipping a set percentage mal-sized letters (ie under addition, many Indonesians
is not expected in Bali, but 20g) by airmail is cheap, but travel to Bali at these times.
if the service is good, it’s not very fast. Dates change each year.
appropriate to leave at least From Bali mail delivery Isra Miraj Nabi Muhammad
5000Rp or 10% or more. takes two weeks to the US (Ascension of the Prophet
¨ Hand cash directly to and Australia, and three Muhammad) Around April
weeks to the UK and the rest
individuals (taxi drivers, of Europe. Idul Fitri (Also known as
porters, people giving you a Most post offices will lebaran) This two-day national
massage, bringing you a beer properly wrap parcels over public holiday marks the end of
at the beach etc) to recognise 20g for shipping for a small Ramadan; avoid travel due to
their service; 5000Rp to fee. Don’t use the post for crowds. Around June.
10,000Rp or 10% to 20% of anything you’d miss.
the total fee is generous. International express Idul Adha (islamic feast of the
¨ Most midrange and all top- companies like DHL, Fedex sacrifice) Around september
end hotels and restaurants and UPS operate on Bali and Muharram (islamic new Year)
add 21% to the bill for tax and offer reliable, fast and expen- Around september
service (called ‘plus plus’). sive service. Maulud Nabi Muhammad
(Birthday of the Prophet Muham-
mad) Around december
Opening Hours Public Holidays
Typical opening hours are as The following holidays are Safe Travel
follows: celebrated throughout In-
Banks 8am to 2pm Monday to donesia. Many of the dates It’s important to note that
Thursday, 8am to noon Friday, change according to the compared to many places in
8am to 11am saturday phase of the moon (not by the world Bali is fairly safe.
month) or by religious cal- There are some hassles from
382
Orphanages
GOVERNMENT TRAVEL ADVICE Bali has a number of ‘fake’
orphanages designed
Government advisories often are general and guaran- to extract money from
teed to allow for bureaucratic cover should trouble oc- well-meaning tourists. If you
cur. However, the following sites also have useful tips: are considering donating
anything to an orphanage,
Australia (www.smartraveller.gov.au) carefully research its repu-
Canada (www.travel.gc.ca) tation online. Orphanages
using cab drivers as hawkers
New Zealand (www.safetravel.govt.nz) are especially suspect.
UK (www.gov.uk/foreign-travel-advice) Swimming
US (www.travel.state.gov)
Kuta Beach and those to the
north and south are subject
the avaricious, but most Kuta Beach, the Gunung Ba- to heavy surf and strong
visitors face many more tur area and the temples at currents – always swim
dangers at home. There have Besakih and Tanah Lot. And between the flags. Trained
been some high-profile cases the cry of ‘Transport?!?’ – lifeguards are on duty, but
of visitors being injured or that’s everywhere. Many only at Kuta, Legian, Sem-
killed on Bali, but in many touts employ fake, irritating inyak, Nusa Dua, Sanur and
cases these tragedies have Australian accents (‘Oi! (sometimes) Senggigi. Other
Directory A–Z sAFE TRAVEl
been inflamed by media Mate!’). beaches can have strong
sensationalism. Use the following tips to currents, even when protect-
Boat travel carries risks. deflect attention: ed by reefs.
Be careful when swimming
Take precautions (p388). ¨ Completely ignore touts/ over coral, and never walk on
Alcohol Poisoning hawkers it. It can be very sharp and
Outside of reputable bars ¨ Don’t make any eye coral cuts are easily infected.
and resorts, avoid arak, the contact In addition, you are damag-
locally produced fermented ¨ A polite tidak (no) actually ing a fragile environment.
booze made from rice or encourages them Water pollution is a prob-
palm. Deaths and injuries ¨ Never ask the price or lem, especially after rain.
happen – especially on Bali comment on the quality of Swim far away from any open
and the Gilis – when un- their goods unless you’re streams you see flowing into
scrupulous vendors stretch interested in buying the surf, including the often
stocks with poisonous Keep in mind, though, that foul and smelly ones at Dou-
chemicals. ble Six Beach and Seminyak
ultimately they’re just people Beach. The seawater around
Drugs trying to make a living, and Kuta is commonly contami-
Numerous high-profile drug if you don’t want to buy an- nated by run-off from built-
ything, you are wasting their
cases on Bali and Lombok time trying to be polite. up areas.
should be enough to dis-
suade anyone from having
anything to do with illicit
drugs. As little as two ecstasy
tabs or a bit of pot have re- THE ART OF BARGAINING
sulted in huge fines and mul-
tiyear jail sentences in Bali’s Bargaining can be an enjoyable part of shopping in Bali.
notorious jail in Kerobokan. Try following these steps:
Try smuggling and you may
pay with your life. Kuta is ¨ Have some idea of the item’s worth.
filled with cops posing as ¨ Establish a starting price – ask the seller for their
dealers.
price.
Hawkers & Touts ¨ Your first offer can be from one-third to two-thirds of
Many visitors regard hawkers that price.
and touts as the number
one annoyance in Bali (and ¨ If you don’t like the price, walk – the vendor may go
in tourist areas of Lombok). lower.
Visitors are frequently, and ¨ When you name a price, you’re committed – you must
often constantly, hassled to buy if your offer is accepted.
buy things. The worst places
for this are Jl Legian in Kuta,
383
Theft
Violent crime is uncommon, WRONG NUMBER?
but bag-snatching from mo-
torbikes, pickpocketing and Bali’s landline phone numbers (those with area codes
theft from rooms and parked that include %0361, across the south and Ubud) are
cars occurs. Take the same
precautions you would in being changed on an ongoing basis. To accommodate
any urban area. Other com- more lines, a digit is being added to the start of the
mon-sense tips: existing six- or seven-digit phone number. So %0361-
¨ Secure money before 761 xxxx might become %0361-4761 xxxx. You’ll hear a
leaving an ATM (and don’t recording first in Bahasa Indonesia and then in English,
forget your card!). telling you what digit to add to the changed number.
¨ Don’t leave valuables on a
beach while swimming. CASH SCHEMES the ‘duty-free’ shop. They Directory A–Z TElEPHonE
¨ Use front desk/in-room Many travellers are ripped off cost 50,000Rp, and come
safes. by money changers who use with credit, plus they offer
sleight of hand and rigged good data deals. This is an
Traffic & Footpaths calculators. Always count easy way to get set up, but
Apart from the dangers of your money at least twice in make sure you’re not dealing
driving in Bali, the traffic in front of the money changer, with a faux vendor charging
most tourist areas is often and don’t let them touch the outlandish rates.
annoying and frequently money again after you’ve
dangerous to pedestrians. finally counted it. The best Phone Codes
Footpaths can be rough, defence is to use a bank-af- The international access
even unusable; gaps in the filiated currency exchange code can be any of three
pavement are a top cause of or ATMs (although there versions; try all three.
injury. Carry a torch (flash- has been a rash of fake card
light) at night. skimmers attached to ATMs, indonesia %62
Scams so check authenticity). country code
It’s hard to say when an international %001/008/
‘accepted’ practice such as call prefix 017
overcharging becomes an Telephone Police %110
unacceptable rip-off, but be Mobile Phones
warned that there are people Fire %113
in Bali (not always Balinese) ¨ Data speeds of 3G and Medical %119
who will try to rip you off. faster are common across Emergency
Most Balinese would never Bali. Any modern mobile
perpetrate a scam, but it phone will work.
seems that very few would ¨ SIM cards come with
warn a foreigner when one cheap rates for calling Time
is happening. Be suspicious other countries, starting at
if you notice that bystand- US$0.20 per minute. Bali is on Waktu Indonesian
ers are uncommunicative Tengah or WIT (Central In-
and perhaps uneasy, and ¨ SIM cards are widely donesian Standard Time),
one person is doing all the available and easily topped which is eight hours ahead
talking. up with credit. of Greenwich Mean Time/
¨ Watch out for vendors Universal Time or two hours
CAR CON who sell SIM cards to visitors behind Australian Eastern
Locals (often working in for 50,000Rp or more. If Standard Time. Java is an-
pairs) discover a ‘serious they don’t come with at other hour behind Bali.
problem’ with your car or least 45,000Rp in credit Not allowing for day-
motorcycle – it’s blowing you are being ripped off. Go light-saving time elsewhere,
smoke, leaking oil or petrol, a elsewhere. when it’s noon in Bali, it’s
wheel is wobbling or a tyre is ¨ Data plans average about 11pm the previous day in
flat (problems that one of the 200,000Rp for 3.5GB of New York, 8pm in Los Ange-
pair creates while the other data. les, 4am in London, and 2pm
distracts you). Coincidental- in Sydney and Melbourne.
ly, a brother/cousin/friend ¨ Telkomsel, a major carrier,
nearby can help, and soon, often has reps selling
they’re demanding an outra- SIM cards in the airport
geous sum for their trouble. arrivals area just before
384
Bali Advertiser (www.baliadver
Toilets tiser.biz) Has excellent columns Travellers with
Western-style toilets are with info for visitors including Disabilities
‘greenspeak’ by journalist cat
almost universally common Wheeler and ‘Bali Explorer’ Indonesia has very little sup-
in tourist areas. During the by legendary travel writer Bill portive legislation or special
day, look for a cafe or hotel dalton. programs for people with
and smile (public toilets only disabilities, and it’s a difficult
exist at some major sights). Bali Discovery (www.balidis- destination for those with
covery.com) The weekly online
news report by Jack daniels is a limited mobility.
Very few buildings have
Tourist must-read of events in Bali. disabled access, and even in-
Information The Beat Bali (http://the ternational chain hotels often
beatbali.com) useful website
The tourist office in Ubud and biweekly publication with don’t have proper facilities.
Pavements are riddled
(Fabulous ubud; Map p150; extensive entertainment and with potholes, loose man-
%0361-973285; www.fabu- cultural listings. holes, parked motorcycles
lousubud.com; Jl Raya ubud; The Yak (www.theyakmag.com) and all sorts of street life, and
h8am-8pm; W) is an excel- glossy, cheeky mag celebrating are very rarely level for long
lent source of information on the expat swells of Seminyak until the next set of steps.
Directory A–Z ToilETs
cultural events. Otherwise and ubud. Even the able bodied walk on
the tourist offices in Bali are roads rather than negotiate
not useful. Ubud Now and Then (http:// the hassle of the pavement
Some of the best informa- ubudnowandthen.com) Run (sidewalk).
tion is found in the many free by famous photographer Rio Public transport is diffi-
publications and websites Helmi and other luminaries; has cult; cars with a driver can
aimed at tourists and expats. ubud-centric info and features easily be hired at cheap
There are also numerous as well as excellent Bali-wide rates. Guides are found
Facebook groups, although cultural listings. readily in tourist areas and,
some are simply forums for though not usual, they could
the intolerant. be hired as helpers if needed.
Bali, with its wide range
of tourist services and facil-
RENEWING YOUR VISA ities, is the most favourable
destination for travellers with
disabilities, although this
You can renew a 30-day Visa on Arrival once (but not a does not mean it is easy.
Visa Free). The procedures are complex:
¨ At least seven days before your visa expires, go to an
immigration office. These can usually be found in larger Visas
cities and regional capitals. The best one for south Bali Visas are easy to obtain but
is the immigrasi office (immigration office; %0361-935 can be a hassle if you hope to
1038; Jl Raya Taman Jimbaran; h8am-4pm Mon-Fri) near stay longer than 30 days.
Jimbaran. Social Visas
¨ Bring your passport, a photocopy of your passport If you have a good reason
and a copy of your ticket out of Indonesia (which should for staying longer (eg study
be for a date during the renewal period). or family reasons), you can
¨ Wear modest clothes (eg men may be required to apply for a sosial/budaya
wear long pants). (social/cultural) visa. You
will need an application form
¨ Pay a fee of 250,000Rp. from an Indonesian embassy
¨ You may have to return to the office twice over a three- or consulate, and a letter of
to five-day period for fingerprinting, photos and other introduction or promise of
procedures. sponsorship from a reputa-
ble person or school in In-
One way to avoid the renewal hassle is to use a visa donesia. It’s initially valid for
agent such as ChannelOne (Map p76; %0878 6204 3224; three months, but it can be
www.channel1.biz; Jl sunset 100X, Kerobokan) on Bali, who extended for one month at a
for a fee will do most of the bureaucratic work for you. time at an immigration office
within Indonesia for a max-
Fines for overstaying your visa expiration date are imum of six months. There
300,000Rp per day and include additional hassles. are fees for the application
and for extending the visa.
385
Visa Types websites to see their current ties; operates the Smile Shop
The three main visas types status. (Map p150; %0361-233758;
for visitors: Amicorp Community Centre www.senyumbali.org; Jl sriwe-
dari; h10am-4pm Tue-sun) in
Visa in Advance Visitors can (www.amicorpcommunitycentre. ubud to raise money.
apply for a visa before they com) This organisation is build-
arrive in indonesia. Typically this ing a community centre in the Yayasan Rama Sesana (www.
is a visitor’s visa, which is valid village of les in northeast Bali; yrsbali.org) dedicated to im-
for 30 or 60 days. details vary by tours and programs including proving reproductive health for
country; contact your nearest in- culinary classes, permaculture women across Bali.
donesian embassy or consulate training, Balinese gamelan and Yayasan Bumi Sehat (www.bu-
to determine processing fees dance workshops. misehatfoundation.org) operates
and times. note: this is the only Bali Children’s Project (www. an internationally recognised
way to obtain a 60-day visitor balichildrensproject.org) Funds clinic and gives reproductive ser-
visa, even if you qualify for Visa education and offers English and vices to disadvantaged women
on Arrival (VoA). computer training. in ubud; accepts donated time Directory A–Z VolunTEERing
Visa on Arrival citizens of most East Bali Poverty Project from medical professionals.
countries may apply for a 30-day (%0361-410071; www.eastbal- Founder Robin lim has had
visa when they arrive at major ipovertyproject.org) Works to international recognition.
airports and harbours. The cost help children in the impoverished YKIP (www.ykip.org) Established
is us$35; be sure to have the mountain villages of east Bali. after the 2002 bombings, it
exact amount in US currency. Friends of the National Parks organises and funds health and
VoA renewals for 30 days are Foundation (www.fnpf.org) Has education projects for Bali’s
possible. volunteer programs on nusa children.
Visa Free citizens of most Penida aimed at wildlife
countries can receive a 30-day conservation.
visa for free upon arrival. But Gus Bali (www.gus-bali.org) Women Travellers
note that this visa cannot be Works to raise environmental Bali
extended. awareness on Bali and runs
beach clean-up projects that Bali is generally safer for
women than many areas of
If you have obtained one of anyone can join. the world, and with the usual
the coveted 60-day visas in IDEP (indonesian development care and common sense,
advance, be sure the immi- of Education & Permaculture; women should feel secure
gration official at the airport %0812 4658 5137; www.ide- travelling alone.
gives you a 60-day tourist pfoundation.org) Has projects Lombok
card. across indonesia; works on
For further info on Indone- environmental projects, disas- Traditionally, women on Lom-
sia’s visa situation, contact ter planning and community bok and the Gilis are treated
an Indonesian embassy. improvement. with respect, but in the
JED (Village Ecotourism net- touristy areas, harassment
work; %0361-366 9951; www. of single foreign women may
Volunteering jed.or.id; tours us$75-150) occur. Would-be guides/boy-
There’s a plethora of oppor- organises highly regarded tours friends/gigolos are often per-
sistent in their approaches,
of small villages, some over-
tunities to lend a hand in Bali. night. often needs volunteers to and can be aggressive when
Information sources include improve its services and work ignored or rejected. Clothes
the Bali Advertiser (www. with the villagers. that aren’t too revealing are
baliadvertiser.biz), under a good idea – beachwear
‘Community Groups’, and Bali ROLE Foundation (www. should be reserved for the
Spirit (www.balispirit.com/ rolefoundation.org) Works to beach. Two or more women
ngos). There are also Ubud improve well-being and self-re- together are less likely to
organisations helping Bali’s liance in underprivileged Bali experience problems, and
dogs (p182). communities; has environmental women accompanied by a
projects.
Local Organisations Smile Foundation of Bali (www. man are unlikely to be
harassed.
The following organisations senyumbali.org) organises
need donations, supplies and surgery to correct facial deformi-
often volunteers. Check their
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
386
Transport
GETTING THERE nationally as Denpasar or on is too short for planes flying
& AWAY some internet flight-booking nonstop to/from Europe.
Domestic airlines serving
sites as Bali.
Bali’s current airport Bali from other parts of Indo-
Most visitors to Bali will terminal opened in 2013. nesia change frequently.
arrive by air. Island-hoppers Unfortunately, it has many
can catch frequent ferries problems: Air Asia (www.airasia.com)
between eastern Java and Serves Jakarta as well as Bang-
Bali, between Bali and Lom- ¨ Outrageous food and kok, Kuala Lumpur, Singapore
bok, and between Lombok drink prices, even by airport and Australian cities.
and Sumbawa. standards. Cathay Pacific Airways (www.
Flights, tours and rail ¨ A serpentine layout that cathaypacific.com) Serves Hong
tickets can be booked online forces departing passengers Kong.
at www.lonelyplanet.com/ to walk a very long narrow China Airlines (www.china-air-
bookings. path amid shops. lines.com) Serves Taipei.
¨ Long lines at immigration Emirates (www.emirates.com)
Air and customs. Immigration Has good connections from
officials may offer
Europe via Dubai.
Although Jakarta, the na- passengers a chance
tional capital, is the gateway to cut the queue for an Eva Air (www.evaair.com) Serves
airport to Indonesia, there unsanctioned fee of Taipei.
are also many direct interna- 750,000Rp. Garuda Indonesia (www.
tional flights to Bali. ¨ Nonoperating escalators. garuda-indonesia.com) Serves
Airports & Airlines ¨ Touts offering dubious Australia, Japan, Korea, London
and Singapore direct, plus cities
BALI AIRPORT accommodation and across Indonesia.
Ngurah Rai International transport services in the Jetstar (www.jetstar.com)
arrivals area.
Airport (http://bali-airport. Serves Australia.
com), just south of Kuta, is International airlines flying KLM (www.klm.com) Serves
the only airport in Bali. It is to and from Bali have myriad Amsterdam via Singapore.
sometimes referred to inter- flights to Australia and Asian
capitals. The present runway
CLIMATE CHANGE & TRAVEL
Every form of transport that relies on carbon-based fuel generates CO 2 , the main cause
of human-induced climate change. Modern travel is dependent on aeroplanes, which
might use less fuel per kilometre per person than most cars but travel much greater
distances. The altitude at which aircraft emit gases (including CO 2 ) and particles also
contributes to their climate change impact. Many websites offer ‘carbon calculators’
that allow people to estimate the carbon emissions generated by their journey and, for
those who wish to do so, to offset the impact of the greenhouse gases emitted with con-
tributions to portfolios of climate-friendly initiatives throughout the world. Lonely Planet
offsets the carbon footprint of all staff and author travel.
387
Yogyakarta (350,000Rp, and then take a bus all the
DEPARTURE TAX 16 hours) and Jakarta way to Jakarta.
(500,000Rp, 24 hours). You
Departure tax is can also get buses from Sin- Sumbawa
included in the price garaja in north Bali. Ferries travel between Labu-
of a ticket. Train han Lombok on Lombok and
Poto Tano on Sumbawa fre-
Bali doesn’t have trains but quently throughout the day.
Korean Air (www.koreanair.com) the State Railway Compa- Lombok
Serves Seoul. ny (Map p130; %0361-227131;
Lion Air (www.lionair.co.id) Jl Diponegoro 150/B4; h8am- Public car ferries travel slow-
ly between Padangbai and
3pm Mon-Fri, 9am-2pm Sat
Serves cities across Indonesia & Sun) does have an office Lembar on Lombok. There TransporT L AnD
and Kuala Lumpur. in Denpasar. From here are also fast boats from var-
Malaysia Airlines (www.mas. buses leave for eastern Java ious ports in Bali to the Gilis
com.my) Serves Kuala Lumpur. where they link with trains at and Lombok.
Qatar Airways (www.qatarair- Banyuwangi for Surabaya,
ways.com) Serves Doha nonstop Yogyakarta and Jakarta, GETTING
with good connections to Europe. among other destinations. AROUND
Singapore Airlines (www.singa- Fares and times are com-
parable to the bus, but the
poreair.com) Serves Singapore air-conditioned trains are The best way to get around
several times daily. more comfortable, even in is with your own transport,
Thai Airways International economy class. Note: Google whether you drive, hire a
(www.thaiair.com) Serves Translate works well on the driver or cycle. This gives
Bangkok. website. you the flexibility to explore
Virgin Australia (www.virginaus- places that are otherwise
tralia.com) Serves Australia. inaccessible.
Sea Car Rent a small 4WD for under
LOMBOK AIRPORT Pelni (www.pelni.co.id), US$30 a day or get a car and
Lombok International Airport the national shipping line, driver for US$60 a day.
(LOP; www.lombok-airport.co.id) operates large boats on in- Motorbike Rent one for as little
near Praya, this airport is ever frequent long-distance runs as US$5 a day.
more busy. There is good service throughout Indonesia. For Public transport Bemos (small
to Bali and Java, with fewer Bali, Pelni ships stop at the vans) provide very cheap
services going east into nusa harbour in Benoa. Schedules transport on fixed routes but
Tenggara. Flights also serve the and fares are found on the most locals have switched to
international hubs of Singapore website. You can enquire and motorbikes.
and Kuala Lumpur. You’ll find book at the Pelni ticket of-
travel agents for airline tickets in fice (Map p58; %0361-763963; Tourist shuttle bus Combine
Kuta, Mataram and Senggigi. www.pelni.co.id; Jl Raya Kuta economy with convenience.
299; h8am-noon & 1-4pm Mon- Taxi Fairly cheap, but only use
Fri, 8am-1pm Sat) in Tuban. Bluebird Taxis to avoid scams.
Land Java
Any trip to Bali over land will
require a ferry crossing. You can reach Java, just west Bemo
of Bali, via the ferries that run
Bus between Gilimanuk in west Bemos are normally a mini-
The ferry crossing from Bali Bali and Ketapang (Java), bus or van with a row of low
seats down each side and
is included in the services
offered by numerous bus
companies, many of which
travel overnight to Java. It’s MENGWI BUS TERMINAL
advisable to buy your ticket
at least one day in advance The Mengwi bus terminal is 12km northwest of Den-
from a travel agent or at pasar, just off the main road to west Bali. Many long-
the terminals in Denpasar distance buses to/from Denpasar’s Ubung bus terminal
(Ubang) or Mengwi. Note also stop here.
that flying can be almost as When travelling to/from south Bali, you can save time
cheap as the bus. using this terminal compared to Denpasar. Metered
Fares vary between oper-
ators; it’s worth paying extra taxis are available and fares should be 150,000Rp to
for a decent seat (all have 200,000Rp.
air-con). Destinations include
388
which carry about 12 people to see visitors on bemos in Terminals & Routes
in very cramped conditions. Bali. Every town has at least one
They were once the domi- terminal (terminal bis) for
nant form of public transport Fares all forms of public transport.
in Bali, but widespread mo- Bemos operate on a stand- There are often several ter-
torbike ownership (which can ard route for a set (but un- minals in larger towns. Ter-
be cheaper than daily bemo written) fare. The minimum is minals can be confusing, but
use) has caused the system about 5000Rp. If you get into most bemos and buses have
to wither. Expect to find that an empty bemo, always make signs, and if you’re in doubt,
getting to many places is it clear that you do not want people will usually help you.
both time-consuming and to charter it. To travel from one part
inconvenient. It’s uncommon of Bali to another, it is often
TRAVELLING SAFELY BY BOAT
TransporT BEMO
Fast boats linking Bali, Nusa Lembongan, Lombok and the Gili Islands have proliferated,
especially as the latter places have become more popular. But safety regulations are
nonexistent and accidents continue to happen. In 2016 two tourists were killed when a
fast boat to the Gilis exploded.
Crews on these boats may have little or no training: in one accident, the skipper ad-
mitted that he panicked and had no recollection of what happened to his passengers.
And rescue is far from assured: a volunteer rescue group in east Bali reported that they
had no radio.
Conditions are often rough in the waters off Bali. Although the islands are in close
proximity and are easily seen from each other, the ocean between can get more turbulent
than is safe for the small speedboats zipping across it.
With these facts in mind, it is essential that you take responsibility for your own safety
because no one else will. Consider the following points:
Bigger is better It may add half an hour or more to your journey, but a larger boat will
simply deal with the open ocean better than the over-powered small speedboats. Also,
trips on small boats can be unpleasant because of the ceaseless pounding through the
waves and the fumes coming from the screaming outboard motors. Avoid anything un-
der 30 seats except between Nusa Lembongan and Nusa Penida.
Check for safety equipment Make certain your boat has life preservers and that you
know how to locate and use them. In an emergency, don’t expect a panicked crew to
hand them out. Also, check for lifeboats. Some promotional materials show boats with
automatically inflating lifeboats that have later been removed to make room for more
passengers.
Avoid overcrowding Some boats leave with more people than seats and with aisles
jammed with stacked luggage. Passengers are forced to sit on cabin roofs in unsafe con-
ditions. If this happens, don’t use the boat.
Look for exits Cabins may have only one narrow entrance, making them death traps in
an accident. Sitting at the open back may seem safer but fuel explosions regularly injure
passengers at the back of boats.
Avoid fly-by-nighters Taking a fishing boat and jamming too many engines on the rear
in order to cash in on booming tourism is a recipe for disaster.
Don’t ride on the roof It looks like carefree fun but travellers are regularly bounced off
when boats hit swells and crews may be inept at rescue. Rough seas can drench passen-
gers and ruin their belongings.
The ferry isn’t safer One of the big Padangbai–Bangsal, Lombok car ferries caught fire
and sank in 2014. A Gilimanuk, Bali–Java ferry capsized and sank in 2016.
Use common sense There are good operators on the waters around Bali but the line-up
changes constantly. If a service seems sketchy before you board, go with a different op-
erator. Try to get a refund but don’t risk your safety for the cost of a ticket.
389
necessary to go via one or
more terminals. For example, TRANS-SARBAGITA BUS
to get from Sanur to Ubud
by bemo, you go to the Ke- Trans-Sarbagita (Map p54; Jl Imam Bonjol; fare 3500Rp;
reneng terminal in Denpasar, h5am-9pm) runs large, air-con commuter buses like you
transfer to the Batubulan find in major cities the world over. It is suited more to
terminal, and then take a locals due to long wait times and unreliable schedules;
third bemo to Ubud. This is however, it’s handy if you’re heading along any of the
circuitous and time-consum-
ing, two of the reasons so few following four routes: the bypass linking Sanur to Nusa
visitors take bemos in Bali. Dua; Denpasar to Jimbaran; Tabanan to Bandara; or
Mahendradata to Lebih via Sanur. TransporT BICYCLE
Bicycle ing services in major tourist ¨ Popular spots like Bingin
Increasingly, people are areas. Typically a tourist bus and Seminyak are not
touring the island by sepeda is an eight- to 20-passenger served.
(bike) and many visitors are vehicle. Service is not as ¨ Three or more people can
using bikes around towns quick as with your own car hire a car and driver for less.
and for day trips. and driver but it’s far easier
There are plenty of bicy- than trying for public bemos LOMBOK
cles for rent in the tourist and buses. There are tourist shuttle-bus
areas, but many are in poor Kura-Kura Bus (Map p54; services between the main
condition. Ask at your ac- %0361-370 0244; www. tourist centres in Lombok
commodation. Prices are kura2bus.com; Jl ngurah Rai (Senggigi and Kuta) and
from 30,000Rp per day. Bypass, Ground Fl, DFS Galle- most tourist centres in south
ria; rides 20,000-80,000Rp, Bali and the Gilis. Typically
day pass from 150,000Rp; W) these combine a minibus
Bus This innovative Japanese-owned with public ferries. Tickets
Public Bus tourist bus service covers im- can be booked directly or at a
portant areas of south Bali and
travel agent. These schemes
BALI Ubud. Buses have wi-fi and run are heavily marketed.
Larger minibuses and full- during daylight hours and early
size buses ply the longer evening, and frequencies range
routes, particularly on routes from 20 minutes to over two Car & Motorcycle
linking Denpasar, Singaraja hours. Check schedules online
and Gilimanuk. They operate or with the app. There are eight Renting a car or motorbike
out of the same terminals lines and the hub is the DFS can open up Bali for explora-
as bemos. However, with Galleria duty-free mall. tion – and can also leave you
everybody riding motorbikes, Perama (%0361-751170; www. counting the minutes until
there are long delays waiting peramatour.com) The major you return it; there can be
for buses to fill up at termi- tourist bus operator. It has harrowing driving conditions
nals before departing. offices or agents in Kuta, Sanur, on the islands at certain
Ubud, Lovina, Padangbai and times and south Bali traffic is
LOMBOK Candidasa as well as Gili T and often awful. But it gives you
Mandalika Terminal (Jl Tu- Senggigi on Lombok. the freedom to explore myr-
guh Faisal) is 3km east of cen- iad back roads and lets you
tral Mataram; other regional Advantages of tourist buses: set your own schedule.
terminals are in Praya, Anyar ¨ Fares are reasonable (eg Most people don’t rent a
and Pancor (near Selong). Kuta to Lovina is 125,000Rp). car for their entire visit but
You may have to go via one ¨ They have air-con. rather get one for a few days
or more of these terminals to of meandering.
get from one part of Lombok ¨ You can meet other Driving Licences
to another. Fixed fares should travellers.
be displayed. Public trans- Disadvantages of tourist CAR LICENCES
port becomes scarce in the buses: If you plan to drive a car,
late afternoon and normally ¨ Stops are often outside you’re supposed to have an
ceases after dark. the centre, requiring another International Driving Permit
shuttle or taxi. (IDP). You can obtain one
Tourist Bus from your national motoring
BALI ¨ Buses may not provide a organisation if you have
direct service – stopping,
Tourist buses are economical say, at Ubud between Kuta a normal driving licence.
and convenient ways to get and Padangbai. Bring your home licence as
around. You’ll see signs offer- well. Without an IDP, add
50,000Rp to any fine you’ll
390
There’s no reason to book
BALI’S TOLL ROAD rental cars in advance or with
a tour package; doing so will
The Bali Madara Toll Road avoids the worst of the traffic almost certainly cost more
in and around Kuta. Some 12.7km in length, it runs from than arranging it locally. Any
the bypass near Denpasar over the mangroves to a point place you stay can set you up
near Nusa Dua with a branch to Ngurah Rai International with a car, as can the ev-
Airport. It has good views of the threatened mangroves er-present touts in the street.
and Benoa Harbour as you sail along. MOTORCYCLE
The toll is 13,000Rp. It definitely saves time going Motorbikes are a popular
south, especially to Nusa Dua. But going north you will way of getting around – lo-
get in the traffic-clogged intersection with the Jl Ngurah cals ride pillion almost from
Rai Bypass. birth. A family of five all
riding cheerfully along on
one motorbike is called a Bali
have to pay if stopped by the ¨ Be directed to cheery minivan.
police (although you’ll have English-speaking officials Rentals cost 50,000Rp a
to pay this fine several times and pay 250,000Rp. day, less by the week. This
to exceed the cost and hassle ¨ Take the required written should include minimal in-
of getting the mostly useless test (in English, with the surance for the motorcycle
IDP). answers provided on a but not for any other person
sample test). or property. Many have racks
MOTORCYCLE LICENCES for surfboards.
TransporT CAR & MOTORCYCLE
If you have a motorcycle ¨ Get your permit. Think carefully before
licence at home, get your IDP Sure it costs more than in the renting a motorbike. It is
endorsed for motorcycles hall of chaos, but who can dangerous and every year
too; with this you will have argue with the service? visitors go home with lasting
no problems. Otherwise you Fuel damage – this is no place to
have to get a local licence – learn to ride. Helmet use is
something of an adventure. Bensin (petrol) is sold by mandatory.
Officially, there’s a the government-owned Per-
2,000,000Rp fine for riding tamina company, and costs Insurance
without a proper licence, a cheap (it’s subsidised) Rental agencies and own-
and your motorcycle can be 6500Rp per litre. Bali has ers usually insist that the
impounded. Unofficially, you scads of petrol stations. On vehicle itself is insured, and
may be hit with a substan- Lombok there are stations in minimal insurance should be
tial ‘on-the-spot’ payment major towns. Motorbike fuel included in the basic rental
(50,000Rp seems average) is often sold from roadside deal – often with an excess
and allowed to continue on stands out of Absolut vodka of as much as US$100 for a
your way. Also, if you have an bottles. motorcycle and US$500 for
accident without a licence Hire a car (ie the customer pays
your insurance company Very few agencies in Bali the first US$100/500 of any
might refuse coverage. will allow you to take their claim).
To get a local motorcycle Check to see what your
licence in Bali (valid for a rental cars or motorcycles to own vehicle, health and travel
year), go to the Poltabes Lombok. insurance covers, especially
Denpasar (Map p190; %0361- CAR if you are renting a motor-
142 7352; Jl Gunung Sanhyang; bike.
h8am-1pm Mon-Sat), which is The most popular rental vehi-
northwest of Kerobokan on cle is a small 4WD – they’re Road Conditions
the way to Denpasar. Bring compact and are well suited Bali traffic can be horren-
your passport, a photocopy to exploring back roads. dous in the south, up to
of your passport (just the Automatic transmissions are Ubud, and as far as Padang-
page with your photo on it) unheard of. bai to the east and Gilimanuk
and a passport photo. Then Rental and travel agen- to the west. Finding your way
follow these steps: cies in tourist centres rent around the main tourist sites
vehicles quite cheaply. A
¨ Ignore the mobbed hall small 4WD costs a negotiable can be a challenge because
filled with jostling permit 50,000Rp per day, with un- roads are only sometimes
seekers. limited kilometres and very signposted and maps are un-
reliable. Off the main routes,
¨ Look helpless and limited insurance. Extra days roads can be rough but they
ask uniformed officials often cost much less than are usually surfaced.
‘motorcycle licence?’. the first day. Avoid driving at night or
at dusk. Many bicycles, carts
391
and vehicles do not have ¨ Drive on the left side of
proper lights, and street the road. Hitching
lighting is limited. Traffic Police Hitchhiking is almost unseen
Road Rules Some police will stop drivers on Bali, and as it can never
Visiting drivers common- on very slender pretexts. If be entirely safe, we do not
ly complain about crazy a cop sees your front wheel recommend it. Travellers
Balinese drivers, but often half an inch over the faded who hitch should understand
it’s because the visitors line at a stop sign, if the chin- that they are taking a small
don’t understand the local strap of your helmet isn’t fas- but potentially serious risk.
conventions of road use. For tened, or if you don’t observe Instead, consider taking an
instance, the constant use one of the ever-changing and ojek (a motorcycle that takes
of horns doesn’t mean ‘Get poorly signposted one-way passengers). TransporT HITCHInG
the @£*&% out of my way!’; traffic restrictions, you may
rather, it is a very Balinese be waved down.
way of saying ‘Hi, I’m here.’ The cop will ask to see Local Transport
¨ Watch your front – it’s your licence and the vehi- Dokar
your responsibility to avoid cle’s registration papers, Small dokar (pony carts) are
anything that gets in front of and they’ll also tell you what still seen in parts of Denpasar
your vehicle. In effect, a car, a serious offence you’ve and Kuta, but they’re uncom-
motorcycle or anything else committed. Stay cool and mon. Treatment of the horses
pulling out in front of you has don’t argue. Don’t offer a is a major concern and there
right of way. bribe. Eventually they’ll sug- is no good reason to go for an
gest that you can pay them
¨ Often drivers won’t even some amount of money to expensive tourist ride.
look to see what’s coming deal with the matter. If it’s a
when they turn left at a very large amount, tell them Ojek
junction – they listen for the politely that you don’t have Around towns and along
horn. that much. These matters roads, you can always get a
¨ Use your horn to warn can be settled for something lift by ojek (a motorcycle or
anything in front that you’re between 10,000Rp and motorbike that takes a pay-
there, especially if you’re 100,000Rp, although it will ing passenger). Formal ojek
about to overtake. be more if you argue. are less common now that
anyone with a motorbike can
HIRING A VEHICLE & DRIVER
An excellent way to travel anywhere around Bali is by hired vehicle, allowing you to leave
the driving and inherent frustrations to others. If you’re part of a group, it can make
sound economic sense as well. This is also possible on Lombok but less common.
It’s easy to arrange a charter: just listen for one of the frequent offers of ‘transport?’
in the streets around the tourist centres. Approach a driver yourself or ask at your hotel,
which is often a good method, because it increases accountability. Also consider the
following:
¨ Although great drivers are everywhere, it helps to talk with a few.
¨ Get recommendations from other travellers.
¨ You should like the driver and their English should be sufficient for you to communicate
your wishes.
¨ Costs for a full day should average 500,000Rp to 800,000Rp.
¨ The vehicle, usually a late-model Toyota Kijang seating up to seven, should be clean.
¨ Agree on a route beforehand.
¨ Make it clear if you want to avoid tourist-trap restaurants and shops (smart drivers
understand that tips depend on following your wishes).
¨ On the road, buy the driver lunch (they’ll want to eat elsewhere, so give them
20,000Rp) and offer snacks and drinks.
¨ Many drivers find ways to make your day delightful in unexpected ways. Tip
accordingly.
392
be a freelance ojek (stand by ¨ Other taxi scams include ¨ Are early morning pick-ups
the side of the road, look like lack of change, ‘broken’ for the convenience of the
you need a ride and people meter, fare-raising detours, company, which will then
will stop and offer). They’re and offers for tours, dump you at a central point
OK on quiet country roads, massages, prostitutes etc. to wait for another bus?
but a risky option in the big
towns. Ojek are more com- LOMBOK Specialist Tours
mon on Lombok. Reliable metered taxis oper- Many Bali tour operators
Fares are negotiable, but ated by Blue Bird Lombok offer experiences that vary
about 30,000Rp for 5km is Taksi (%0370-627000; www. from the norm. These can
fairly standard. bluebirdgroup.com) are found include cultural experiences
Taxi in west Lombok. hard for the casual visitor to
find, such as cremations or
BALI trips to remote villages where
Metered taxis are common Tours life has hardly changed in
in south Bali and Denpasar decades. Often you’ll avoid
(but not Ubud). They are Standardised organised the clichéd tourist minibus
TransporT TOURS
essential for getting around tours are a convenient and and travel in unusual vehicles
and you can usually flag one popular way to visit a few or in high comfort.
down in busy areas. They’re places in Bali. There are doz- Bali Discovery Tours (%0361-
often a lot less hassle than ens and dozens of operators 286283; www.balidiscovery.
haggling with drivers offering who provide a similar prod- com; prices vary) Personalised
‘transport!’ uct and service. Much more and customisable tours across
¨ The best taxi company by interesting are specialised Bali.
tour companies that can take
far is Blue Bird Taxi (%0361- you far off the beaten track, Hanafi (Map p54; %0821 4538
701111; www.bluebirdgroup. offer memorable experiences 9646; www.hanafi.net; Jl Pantai
com), which uses blue and otherwise show you a Kuta) This legendary tour guide
vehicles with a light on different side of Bali. You can operates from Kuta. Customises
the roof bearing a stylised also easily arrange your own trips of all kinds whether for
bluebird. Drivers speak custom tour. families or couples. Gay friendly
reasonable English and use too.
the meter at all times. Many Standard Day Tours JED (Village Ecotourism net-
expats will use no other firm. Tours are typically in white work; %0361-366 9951; www.
Blue Bird has a slick app minibuses with air-con,
that summons a taxi to your which pick you up from and jed.or.id; tours US$75-150)
location just like Uber. Watch drop you off at your hotel. Community-based, organises
out for myriad fakes – there Prices range from 100,000Rp highly regarded tours of small
are many. Look for ‘Blue Bird’ to 500,000Rp for what are villages, some overnight.
over the windscreen and the essentially similar tours, so it Suta Tours (%0361-462666,
phone number. pays to shop around. Consid- 0361-466783; www.sutatour.
¨ Taxis are fairly cheap: Kuta er the following: com; prices vary) Arranges the
standard tours and also trips
to Seminyak can be only ¨ Will lunch be at a huge to cremation ceremonies and
80,000Rp. tourist buffet or somewhere special temple festivals, market
¨ Avoid any taxis where the more interesting? tours and other custom plans.
driver won’t use a meter, ¨ How much time will be
even after dark when they spent at tourist shops?
claim that only fixed fares ¨ Will there be a qualified
apply.
English-speaking guide?
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
393
Health
Treatment for minor injuries to have a physician’s letter you in Bali, you should
and common traveller’s documenting their medical take out travel insurance;
health problems is easily necessity. If you have a heart bring a copy of the policy
accessed in Bali. For serious condition ensure you bring a as evidence that you’re
conditions, you will need to copy of an electrocardiogram covered. It’s a good idea
leave the island. taken just prior to travelling. to get a policy that pays
Travellers tend to worry If you take any regular for medical evacuation if
about contracting infectious medication bring double necessary (which can cost
diseases when in the tropics, your needs in case of loss US$100,000).
but infections are a rare or theft. You can buy many Some policies specifically
cause of serious illness or medications over the exclude ‘dangerous activi-
death in travellers. Pre-ex- counter without a doctor’s ties’, which can include scuba
isting medical conditions, prescription, but it can be diving, renting a local motor-
such as heart disease, and difficult to find some of the cycle and even trekking. Be
accidental injury (especially newer drugs, particularly the aware that a locally acquired
traffic accidents) account for latest antidepressant drugs, motorcycle licence isn’t valid
most life-threatening prob- blood-pressure medications under some policies.
lems. Becoming ill in some and contraceptive pills. Worldwide travel insur-
way is relatively common, ance is available at www.
however; ailments you may lonelyplanet.com/bookings.
suffer include gastro, overex- Insurance You can buy, extend and
posure to the sun and other claim online anytime – even
typical traveller woes. Unless you are definitely if you’re already on the road.
It’s important to note cer- sure that your health cov-
tain precautions you should erage at home will cover
take on Bali, especially in
regard to rabies, mosquito
bites and the tropical sun. HEALTH ADVISORIES
The advice we provide
is a general guide only and It’s usually a good idea to consult your government’s
does not replace the advice travel-health website before departure, if one is availa-
of a doctor trained in travel ble.
medicine. Australia (www.smarttraveller.gov.au)
BEFORE YOU GO UK (www.gov.uk/foreign-travel-advice)
USA (www.travel.state.gov)
Make sure all medications
are packed in their original, There is a wealth of travel health advice on the internet.
clearly labelled containers. A
signed and dated letter from World Health Organization (www.who.int/ith) Publish-
your physician describing es a superb book called International Travel & Health,
your medical conditions which is revised annually and is available online at no
and medications (including cost.
generic names) is also a
good idea. If you are carrying Centers for Disease Control & Prevention (www.cdc.
syringes or needles, be sure gov) Good general information.
394
¨ antihistamine – there International Medical
Recommended are many options (eg Clinics
Vaccinations cetirizine for daytime and For serious conditions,
promethazine for night)
Specialised travel-medicine ¨ antiseptic (eg Betadine) foreigners are best served
clinics are your best source in the costly private clinic
of information; they stock all ¨ contraceptives BIMC (map p54; %0361-300
available vaccines and will ¨ DEET-based insect 0911, 0361-761263; www.bim-
be able to give specific rec- repellent cbali.com; Ji ngurah Rai 100X;
ommendations for you and ¨ first-aid items such h24hr), which caters mainly
your trip. as scissors, bandages, to tourists and expats. Con-
Your doctor may also rec- firm that your health and/
ommend the following: thermometer (but not a or travel insurance will cover
mercury one) and tweezers
you. In cases where your
¨ Tetanus Single booster ¨ ibuprofen or another anti- medical condition is con-
¨ Hepatitis A inflammatory sidered serious you may be
¨ Typhoid ¨ steroid cream for allergic/ evacuated by air ambulance
to Singapore or beyond;
¨ Rabies itchy rashes (eg 1% to 2% this is where proper insur-
hydrocortisone) ance is vital because these
¨ sunscreen and hat flights can cost more than
Required ¨ throat lozenges US$50,000.
Vaccinations ¨ thrush (vaginal yeast BIMC is on the bypass
The only vaccine required by infection) treatment (eg road just east of Kuta near
the Bali Galleria. It’s a mod-
international regulations is clotrimazole pessaries or ern Australian-run clinic that
yellow fever. Proof of vacci- diflucan tablet) can do tests, hotel visits and
nation will only be required arrange medical evacuation.
HealtH Recommended Vaccinations
if you have visited a country IN BALI & Visits can cost US$100 or
in the yellow-fever zone (pri- more. It has a branch in Nusa
marily some parts of Africa LOMBOK Dua.
and South America) within
the six days prior to entering Hospitals
Southeast Asia. Availability & There are two facilities in
Cost of Health Denpasar that offer a good
Medical Checklist Care standard of care. Both are
more affordable than the
Recommended items for a In south Bali and Ubud there international clinics.
are clinics catering to tour-
convenient personal medical ists, and just about any hotel BaliMed Hospital (%0361-
kit (other items can be easily can put you in touch with an 484748; www.balimedhospital.
obtained on Bali if needed): English-speaking doctor. co.id; Jl mahendradatta 57) on
¨ antibacterial cream (eg the Kerobokan side of denpasar,
muciprocin) this private hospital has a range
AVOIDING MOSQUITO BITES
Travellers are advised to prevent mosquito bites by taking these steps:
¨ Use a DEET-containing insect repellent on exposed skin. Wash this off at night, as long
as you are sleeping under a mosquito net. Natural repellents such as citronella can be
effective, but must be applied more frequently than products containing DEET.
¨ Sleep under a mosquito net impregnated with permethrin.
¨ Choose accommodation with screens and fans (if not air-conditioned).
¨ Impregnate clothing with permethrin in high-risk areas.
¨ Wear long sleeves and trousers in light colours.
¨ Use mosquito coils.
¨ Spray your room with insect repellent before going out for your evening meal.
If you are going to an area where there is a malaria problem, consult with a clinic about
the various prescription drugs you can use to reduce the odds that you’ll get it.
395
of medical services. a basic
consultation is 220,000Rp. ALCOHOL POISONING
RSUP Sanglah Hospital
(Rumah sakit umum Propinsi There are ongoing reports of injuries and deaths among
sanglah; map p130; %0361- tourists and locals due to arak (the local spirits that
227911; www.sanglahhospi- should be distilled from palm or cane sugar) being
talbali.com; Jl diponegoro; adulterated with methanol, a poisonous form of alcohol.
h24hr) the city’s general Although arak is a popular drink, it should be avoided
hospital has english-speaking outside established restaurants and cafes.
staff and an eR. it’s the best
hospital on the island, although
standards are not the same as available it can only be pre- apotik (pharmacy) in almost
at those in first-world countries. vented by avoiding mosquito any town. Don’t buy a cheap
it has a special wing for well-in- bites. The mosquito that brand.
sured foreigners, Paviliun carries dengue bites day and HealtH infectious dise ases
Amerta Wing Interna- night, so use insect avoid- Malaria
tional (map p130; %0361- ance measures at all times. The risk of contracting
257477, 0361-740 5474). Symptoms include high fever, malaria is greatest in rural
severe headache and body areas of Indonesia. Generally
Pharmacies ache (dengue was previously malaria is not a concern on
Many drugs requiring a known as ‘breakbone fever’). Bali or in the main touristed
prescription in the West are Some people develop a rash areas of Lombok. Consider
available over the counter in and experience diarrhoea. precautions if you are going
Indonesia, including powerful It’s vital to see a doctor to be into remote areas or on side
antibiotics. diagnosed and monitored. trips beyond Bali.
The Kimia Farma (www. Two strategies should be
kimiafarma.co.id) chain is Hepatitis A combined to prevent ma-
recommended. It has many A problem throughout the laria: mosquito avoidance
locations, charges fair prices region, this food- and water- (p394) and antimalarial
and has helpful staff. The borne virus infects the liver, medications. Most people
Guardian chain of pharma- causing jaundice (yellow who catch malaria are taking
cies has appeared in tourist skin and eyes), nausea and inadequate or no antimalarial
areas, but the selection is lethargy. There’s no specif- medication.
small and prices can be ic treatment for hepatitis Rabies
shocking even to visitors A; you just need to allow
from high-priced countries. time for the liver to heal. All Rabies is a disease spread by
Elsewhere you need to be travellers to Southeast Asia the bite or lick of an infected
more careful as fake med- should be vaccinated against animal, most commonly a
ications and poorly stored hepatitis A. dog or monkey. Once you are
or out-of-date drugs are Hepatitis B exposed, it is uniformly fatal
common. if you don’t get the vaccine
The only sexually trans- very promptly. Bali has had
mitted disease that can be a major outbreak dating to
Infectious prevented by vaccination, 2008 and people continue to
Diseases hepatitis B is spread by body die each year.
fluids.
To minimise your risk,
Bird Flu HIV consider getting the rabies
Otherwise known as avian HIV is a major problem in vaccine, which consists of
influenza, the H5N1 virus many Asian countries, and three injections. A booster af-
remains a risk to be aware of Bali has one of the highest ter one year will then provide
when travelling in Southeast rates of HIV infection in Indo- 10 years’ protection. This
Asia. It has claimed more nesia. The main risk for most may be worth considering
than 100 victims in Indone- travellers is sexual contact given Bali’s rabies outbreak.
sia; most cases have been with locals, prostitutes and The vaccines are often una-
in Java. vailable on Bali, so get them
other travellers. before you go.
Dengue Fever The risk of sexual trans- Also, be careful to avoid
This mosquito-borne disease mission of the HIV virus can animal bites. Especially
be dramatically reduced by
is a major problem on Bali; the use of a kondom (con- watch children closely.
the number of reported cas- dom). These are available Having the pre-travel
es in 2016 was 80% higher from supermarkets, street vaccination means the post-
than 2015’s already high stalls and drugstores in bite treatment is greatly
figure. As there is no vaccine simplified. If you are bitten or
tourist areas, and from the scratched, gently wash the
396
wound with soap and water, Traveller’s diarrhoea is
and apply an iodine-based defined as the passage of Environmental
antiseptic. It is a good idea to more than three watery bow- Hazards
also consult a doctor. el actions within 24 hours,
Those not vaccinated plus at least one other symp- Diving
will need to receive rabies tom such as fever, cramps, Divers and surfers should
immunoglobulin as soon as nausea, vomiting or feeling seek specialised advice
possible. Clean the wound generally unwell. before they travel to ensure
immediately and do not their medical kit contains
delay seeking medical atten- Treatment treatment for coral cuts and
tion. Note that Bali is known Loperamide is just a ‘stopper’ tropical ear infections, as well
to run out of rabies immuno- and doesn’t get to the cause as the standard problems.
globulin, so be prepared to of the problem. However, it Divers should ensure their
go to Singapore immediately can be helpful, for example, if insurance covers them for
for medical treatment. you have to go on a long bus decompression illness – get
ride. Don’t take Loperamide
Typhoid if you have a fever or blood specialised dive insurance if
This serious bacterial infec- in your stools. Seek medical necessary.
Divers should note that
tion is spread via food and attention quickly if you do there is a decompression
water. Its symptoms are a not respond to an appropri- chamber in Sanur, which is
high and slowly progressive ate antibiotic. a fast-boat ride from Nusa
fever, headache and possibly ¨ Stay well hydrated; Lembongan. Getting here
a dry cough and stomach rehydration solutions such from north Bali can take
pain. It is diagnosed by blood as Gastrolyte are the best three to four hours.
HealtH tRaVelleR’s diaRRhoe a
tests and treated with antibi- for this.
otics. Vaccinations are 80% Heat
effective and should be given ¨ Antibiotics such as Bali is hot and humid
one month before travelling Norfloxacin, Ciprofloxacin throughout the year. It takes
to an infected area. or Azithromycin will kill the most people at least two
bacteria quickly.
weeks to adapt to the hot
Giardiasis climate. Swelling of the feet
Traveller’s Giardia lamblia is a parasite and ankles is common, as are
Diarrhoea that is relatively common in muscle cramps caused by
Traveller’s diarrhoea (aka travellers. Symptoms include excessive sweating. Prevent
these by avoiding dehydra-
Bali belly) is by far the most nausea, bloating, excess tion and excessive activity in
common problem affecting gas, fatigue and intermittent the heat. Be careful to avoid
travellers – between 30% diarrhoea. The parasite will the following conditions:
and 50% of people will suffer eventually go away if left
from it within two weeks of untreated but this can take Heat exhaustion symptoms
starting their trip. In over months. The treatment of include weakness, headache,
80% of cases, traveller’s choice is Tinidazole, with irritability, nausea or vomiting,
diarrhoea is caused by bac- Metronidazole being a sec- sweaty skin, a fast, weak pulse
teria (there are numerous ond-line option. and a normal or slightly elevated
potential culprits), and there- body temperature. treatment
fore responds promptly to involves getting out of the heat
treatment with antibiotics. and/or sun, fanning the victim
and applying cool wet cloths
to the skin, laying the victim
flat with their legs raised, and
WATER rehydrating with water contain-
ing one-quarter of a teaspoon of
Tap water in Bali is never safe to drink. salt per litre. Recovery is usually
Widely available and cheap, bottled water is generally rapid and it is common to feel
safe but check the seal is intact when purchasing. Look weak for some days afterwards.
for places that allow you to refill containers, thus cutting Heatstroke a serious medical
down on landfill. emergency. symptoms come on
Most ice in restaurants is fine if it is uniform in size suddenly and include weakness,
and made at a central plant (standard for large cities and nausea, a hot dry body with a
tourist areas). Avoid ice that is chipped off larger blocks body temperature of over 41°c,
(more common in rural areas). dizziness, confusion, loss of
Avoid fresh juices outside of tourist restaurants and coordination, fits and eventually
collapse and loss of conscious-
cafes. ness. seek urgent medical help
and commence cooling by
397
getting the person out of the way after being stung should if you develop signs of infection
heat, removing their clothes, seek medical advice. see a doctor. divers and surfers
fanning them and applying cool Ticks contracted after walking in should be careful with coral cuts
wet cloths or ice to their body, rural areas, ticks are commonly because they become easily
especially to hot spots such as found behind the ears, on the infected.
the groin and armpits. belly and in armpits. if you have Sunburn
Prickly heat a common skin had a tick bite and experience
rash in the tropics, caused by symptoms such as a rash at the Even on a cloudy day sun-
sweat being trapped under the site of the bite or elsewhere, burn can occur rapidly, espe-
skin. the result is an itchy rash fever or muscle aches, you cially near the equator. Don’t
of tiny lumps. treat by moving should see a doctor. end up like the dopey tourists
out of the heat into an air-condi- Skin Problems you see roasted pink on Kuta
tioned area for a few hours and Beach. Instead:
by having cool showers. Fungal rashes there are two ¨ Use a strong sunscreen (at HealtH Women’s he alth
common fungal rashes that af- least SPF 30).
Bites & Stings fect travellers. the first occurs in ¨ Reapply sunscreen after
During your time in Indo- moist areas that get less air such a swim.
nesia, you may make some as the groin, armpits and be-
unwanted friends. tween the toes. it starts as a red ¨ Wear a wide-brimmed hat
Bedbugs these don’t carry patch that slowly spreads and is and sunglasses.
disease but their bites are very usually itchy. treatment involves ¨ Avoid baking in the sun
itchy. they live in the cracks of keeping the skin dry, avoiding during the hottest part of the
furniture and walls and then chafing and using an antifungal day (10am to 2pm).
migrate to the bed at night to cream such as clotrimazole or
feed on you as you sleep. You can lamisil. Tinea versicolor is also
treat the itch with an antihis- common – this fungus causes Women’s Health
tamine. small, light-coloured patches, In the tourist areas and large
most commonly on the back,
Jellyfish most are not danger- chest and shoulders. consult a cities, sanitary napkins and
ous, just irritating. stings can doctor. tampons are easily found.
be extremely painful but rarely This becomes more diffi-
fatal. first aid for jellyfish stings Cuts & scratches these can cult the more rural you go.
involves pouring vinegar onto the easily get infected in tropical Birth-control options may
affected area to neutralise the climates so take meticulous be limited so bring adequate
poison. do not rub sand or water care of any cuts and scratches. supplies of your own form of
onto the stings. take painkillers, immediately wash all wounds in contraception.
and anyone who feels ill in any clean water and apply antiseptic.
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Language
Indonesian, or Bahasa Indonesia as it’s known BASICS
to the locals, is the official language of Indone- Hello. Salam.
sia. It has approximately 220 million speakers,
although it’s the mother tongue for only about Goodbye. (if leaving) Selamat tinggal.
20 million. Most people in Bali and on Lombok Goodbye. (if staying) Selamat jalan.
also speak their own indigenous languages, How are you? Apa kabar?
Balinese and Sasak respectively. The aver- I’m fine, and you? Kabar baik,
age traveller needn’t worry about learning Anda bagaimana?
Balinese or Sasak, but it can be fun to learn a
few words, which is why we've included a few Excuse me. Permisi.
in this chapter. For practical purposes, it prob- Sorry. Maaf.
ably makes better sense to concentrate your Please. Silahkan.
efforts on learning Bahasa Indonesia. Thank you.
Indonesian pronunciation is easy to master. Terima kasih.
Each letter always represents the same sound You’re welcome. Kembali.
and most letters are pronounced the same as Yes./No. Ya./Tidak.
their English counterparts, with c pronounced Mr/Sir Bapak
as the ‘ch’ in ‘chat’. Note also that kh is a Ms/Mrs/Madam
throaty sound (like the ‘ch’ in Scottish loch), Ibu
and that the ng combination, which is found Miss Nona
in English at the end or in the middle of words What’s your name? Siapa nama Anda?
such as ‘ringing’, also appears at the beginning My name is … Nama saya …
of words in Indonesian.
Syllables generally carry equal emphasis – Do you speak English? Bisa berbicara Bahasa
the main exception is the unstressed e in Inggris?
words such as besar (big) – but the rule of I don’t understand. Saya tidak mengerti.
thumb is to stress the second-last syllable.
In written Indonesian there are some incon-
sistent spellings of place names. Compound ACCOMMODATION
names are written as one word or two, eg Do you have any Ada kamar kosong?
Airsanih or Air Sanih, Padangbai or Padang rooms available?
Bai. Words starting with ‘Ker’ sometimes lose How much is it per Berapa satu malam/
the e, eg Kerobokan/Krobokan. Some Dutch night/person?
variant spellings also remain in use, with tj orang?
instead of the modern c (eg Tjampuhan/ Is breakfast Apakah harganya ter
Campuan), and oe instead of u (eg Soekarno/ included? masuk makan pagi?
Sukarno). I’d like to share Saya mau satu tempat
Pronouns, particularly ‘you’, are rarely used
in Indonesian. Anda is the egalitarian form used a dorm. tidur di asrama.
to overcome the plethora of words for ‘you’. campsite tempat kemah
guesthouse losmen
hotel hotel
WANT MORE? youth hostel pemuda
For in-depth language information a … room kamar …
and handy phrases, check out Lonely
Planet’s Indonesian Phrasebook. You’ll find single untuk satu orang
it at shop.lonelyplanet.com. double untuk dua orang
The words you are searching are inside this book. To get more targeted content, please make full-text search by clicking here.
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