Bali & Lombok

99
shop; if you want your beard trimmed, it’s incredibly knowledgeable on the subject,
a barber… and roasts beans on-site from all over Indo-
nesia; cupping sessions are possible if you
oOld Man’s inteRnAtiOnAL $$ call ahead. The food’s also excellent (organ-
(%0361-846 9158; www .oldmans .net; Jl Pantai ic eggs and baked goods) and perfect for
Batu Bolong; mains from 50,000Rp; h8am- brunch.
midnight) You’ll have a tough time deciding
just where to sit down to enjoy your drink at Finn’s Beach Club BAR
this popular coastal beer garden overlooking (%0361-844 6327; www .finnsbeachclub .com; Jl
Batu Bolong Beach. The self-serve menu is Pantai Berawa; h7am-midnight; W) An enor-
aimed at surfers and surfer-wannabes: burg- mous spectacle built from soaring bamboo,
ers, pizza, fish and chips, salads. Wednesday Finn’s dominates the beachfront. There’s a Kuta & SeminyaK
nights are an institution, while Fridays huge pool and driving sound system. Hip-
(live rock and roll) and Sundays (DJs) are ster types fill seating areas and groups seek-

also big. ing tans frame the pool. Day loungers cost
a pricey 250,000Rp, which includes a towel. Kuta & SeminyaK CAnggu & AROunD
6 Drinking & Nightlife There’s a big bar and various treats like ‘ni- Kuta & SeminyaK DRinKing & nigHtLiFe
Grab a beer from a vendor on the beach or tro ice cream’. Food spans the casual gamut
(mains from 130,000Rp).
hit one of the beach clubs or eating venues Note that the grilled corn on the menu for
nearby. The party doesn’t go late yet; you’ll 60,000Rp inside can be had from the cheery
still need to head south for that.
vendor on the sand for the (already inflated)
oBlack Shores BAR tourist price of 10,000Rp.
(%0813 3987 4055; Jl Batu Bolong; h4pm-mid- La Laguna COCKtAiL BAR
night) A laid-back bar with a pure Canggu (%0812 3638 2272; www .facebook .com/hungry-
vibe. Creative bartenders concoct drinks birdcoffee; Jl Pantai Kayu Putih; h11am-midnight;
that are boozy, fresh and often fruity. Reg- W) A sibling of Seminyak’s La Favela (p85),
ular live acts (usually Friday nights) feature La Laguna is one of Bali’s most alluring bars.
top visiting bands. When crowded it feels It combines a beatnik look with Moorish
like a big house party by the beach, which trappings and sparkling tiny lights. Explore
it sort of is. the eclectic layout, and sit on a couch, a sofa
Ji BAR bed, at a table inside or a picnic table in the
(%0361-473 1701; www .jiatbalesutra .com; Jl Pantai garden. The drinks are good, the food is fair
Batu Bolong, Hotel tugu Bali; h5-11pm) Easily (mains from 75,000Rp).
Canggu’s most alluring bar, Ji is a fantasy of To arrive in style, walk along the beach
historic Chinese and Balinese wood carving and then take the footbridge right over the
and rich decor. From the terrace on the 1st lagoon.
floor, there are fine views you can enjoy with
exotic cocktails, sake and Japanese bites. 7 Shopping
Pretty Poison BAR oIt Was All A Dream FASHiOn & ACCeSSORieS
(%0812 4622 9340; Jl Subak Canggu; h4pm-mid- (%0811 388 3322; Jl Pantai Berawa 14B; h10am-
night) Pretty Poison’s bar overlooks an old- 7pm) Great-quality leather bags, fun sun-
school ’80s skate bowl, so a surfboard isn’t glasses, vintage jeans, jersey basics, embroi-
the only board you to need to pack. Run dered kaftans and more. This hip boutique
by longtime Aussie expat and surfer Maree has original pieces at reasonable prices.
Suteja, it’s a great place to hang out, with It’s run by a French-American pair of expat
cheap beers and bands. Being Canggu, designers.
there’s logo’d wear for sale. It’s close to the Dylan Board Store SPORtS & OutDOORS
chaotic comedy of the rice-field shortcut. (%0819 9982 5654; www .dylansurfboards .com; Jl
Hungry Bird CAFe Pantai Batu Bolong; h10am-8pm) Famed big-
(%0898 619 1008; www .facebook .com/hungry- wave rider Dylan Longbottom runs this
birdcoffee; Jl Raya Semat 86; h8am-5pm mon-Sat; custom surfboard shop. A talented shaper,
W) One of the few genuine third-wave coffee he creates boards for novices and pros alike.
roasters in Bali, Hungry Bird does superb He also stocks plenty of his own designs that
single-origin brews. The Javanese owner is are ready to go.

100
Ivy & Isabel CLOtHing Echoland gueStHOuSe $$
(www .ivyandisabel .com; Jl Pantai Berawa; h9am- (%0361-887 0628; www .echolandbali .com; Jl
6pm) From a popular designer in Western Pantai Batu mejan; dm from 180,000Rp, r with
Australia, this shop has a full line of light- fan/air-con from 435,000/500,000Rp; aWs)
weight women’s wear designed for a beachy There are 17 private rooms plus dorms in
frolic. this compact two-storey compound about
300m from the beach. The rooftop lounge
has a nice cover for shade and predictably
Echo Beach good views. Yoga classes are offered from
One of Bali’s most popular surf breaks, Echo 80,000Rp per hour.
Beach has reached critical mass in populari-
ty; surf shops abound. Construction has not 5 Eating
been kind to the area and there’s an unsight- Cafes from basic to vaunted front the surf
ly dormant resort complex just to the east. break. Some exceptional new eateries are
If it seems too crowded here, walk along the appearing back from the beach.
sands 200m east for quietude.
Kuta & SeminyaK
Sunsets – and big waves – draw crowds Dian Cafe inDOneSiAn $
who enjoy drinks coloured by the rosy glow. (%0813 3875 4305; Jl Pantai Batu mejan; mains
from 30,000Rp; h8am-10pm) Old-school Indo-
r Beaches nesian and Western standards are served up
Kuta & SeminyaK Be ACHeS
Echo Beach BeACH cheap at this open-air cafe just a few metres
from the beach.
(Pantai Batu mejan) Surfers and those who like
to watch them flock here for the high-tide Shady Shack vegetARiAn $$
left-hander that regularly tops 2m. The grey- (%0819 1639 5087; www .facebook .com/the-
Kuta & SeminyaK CAnggu & AROunD
ish sand right in front of the developments shadyshackbali; Jl tanah Barak 53; mains 40,000-
can vanish at high tide, but you’ll find wide 120,000Rp; h7 .30am-11pm; v) S Under big
strands east and west. Batu Bolong Beach is trees, this charming cafe evokes the feel of a
500m east. simple colonial country house in the Carib-
bean. There are tables in the garden as well
4 Sleeping as the woodsy dining room with huge open
Most places to stay here are villas or large windows. The menu is a long list of bowls,
villas with various apartments. Beware of wraps and juices. Most are vegan and/or
low-calibre cheapies along Jl Pantai Batu veggie. Try the blueberry muesli, beautiful
Mejan. halloumi burger or gorgeous desserts.
Echo Beach Resort APARtment $$ Salumeria Tanah Bara itALiAn $$
(%021-781 8558; www .echobeach .co .id; Jl mundu (%0361-300 3463; www .salumeria .asia; Jl tanah
Catu; apt from 900,000Rp; aWs) Soaring Barak 47; mains 60,000-140,000Rp; h4-11pm) Ex-
above nearby villas, this apartment complex ceptionally authentic Italian meats, cheeses
has nine one-bedroom units that come in and antipasti are served in small portions
various flavours. Some have ocean views, and on platters at this cafe that could be
others have private pools. All have kitchen lifted directly from Florence. Share plates of
facilities. The compound is quiet and the de- perfection on sofas, tables and stools, with
cor is light-coloured and spartan. There is a views of the rice fields so you don’t forget
good roof deck with sweeping water views. where you are. The bar menu is long, with
The beach is a 300m walk. excellent wines, martinis and drinks with
Campari.
Koming Guest House gueStHOuSe $$
(%0819 9920 0996; www .komingguesthouse .com; Beach House CAFe $$
Jl munduk Catu; r from 500,000Rp; aWs) Sur- (echo Beach Club; %0361-747 4604; www .
rounded by other villas, this one has four echobeachhouse .com; Jl Pura Batu mejan; mains
rooms on two floors. The bottom ones have 40,000-120,000Rp; h7am-11pm; W) An Echo
direct access to the pool. The upstairs pair Beach icon, this seafront restaurant-bar has
have terraces with glimpses of the ocean. All front-row seats (tables, sofas, picnic tables)
have fridges and basic furnishings. Watch to enjoy the surf action. There’s an impres-
out for some tiled bathrooms that are not sive display of skewered meats and seafood
recommended after a night out. ready to grill, as well as a tasty breakfast and
lunch menu. Evening barbecues are popu-

101
lar, especially on Sundays when there’s live r Beaches
music. Pererenan Beach BeACH
The most northern of the Canggu-area
6 Drinking & Nightlife beaches, laid-back Pererenan is next in the
Enjoying a drink while watching the surf sights of developers. Villas, guesthouses and
break is an Echo Beach tradition. Just west beach bars are found near the dark tanned
of the main cafe cluster, a string of ephem- sands and decent waves. It’s an easy 300m
eral beach bars have appeared that are little walk west from Echo Beach across sand and
more than bamboo shacks. They offer bean- rock formations (or about 1km by road).
bags on the sand and cold beer. Note that Vendors sell beer and rent loungers and
an upscale development could sweep them surfboards. Kuta & SeminyaK
away overnight.
4 Sleeping
Sand Bar BAR Surfers Paradise
(echo Beach; h10am-late) This barely there BungALOW $$
bar is just west of the main cluster of Echo (%0818 567 538; www .andysurfvilla .com; Jl Pantai Kuta & SeminyaK CAnggu & AROunD
Beach businesses such as the Beach House. Pererenan; r 450,000-700,000Rp; aWs) Five Kuta & SeminyaK DRinKing & nigHtLiFe
It serves cold beer and cheap drinks until small bungalows surround a compact court-
predawn on many nights. Sit on beanbags, yard and are watched over by a charming
chairs or sand. On some nights bands play Balinese family; 12 people can rent the en-
until after midnight. tire complex and throw a nonstop party. The
Going west along the beach you’ll find a beach is 200m away.
long series of bamboo beach bars with sim- Pondok Nyoman Bagus gueStHOuSe $$
ple food and cheap beer. (%0361-848 2925; www .pondoknyoman .com; Jl
Pantai Pererenan; r 500,000-700,000Rp; aWs)
8 Getting There & Away Just behind Pererenan Beach, this popular
A local taxi cooperative will shuttle you to Sem- guesthouse has 14 rooms with terraces and
inyak and the south for 120,000Rp or more . balconies, all set in a modern two-storey
building that boasts a rooftop infinity pool
Pererenan Beach and a restaurant with average food and sen-
sational sea views.
The bookend of the vast sweep of sand that
begins near the airport, Pererenan Beach is 8 Getting There & Away
rapidly changing as villas and other build- With traffic on the Tanah Lot road, it can take
ings appear amid the vanishing rice fields, well over an hour to reach Seminyak from here .
all the way back to the Tanah Lot road. Be- taxis will cost upwards of 150,000Rp .
fore long it will be indistinguishable from
the Echo Beach area.

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd













South Bali & the Islands





Includes ¨ Why Go?
Bukit Peninsula. . . . . .104 You won’t have seen Bali if you haven’t fully explored south
Balangan Beach .....107 Bali. The island’s capital, Denpasar, sprawls in all directions
Ulu Watu & Around .. 112 from the centre with traditional markets, busy malls, great
Nusa Dua ........... 114 eating and lashings of Balinese history and culture, even as
Tanjung Benoa ...... 118 it threatens to absorb Seminyak, Kuta and Sanur.
The Bukit Peninsula (the southern part of south Bali)
Sanur ..............120 has multiple personalities. In the east, Tanjung Benoa is a
Denpasar ...........128 beach-fronted playground of package resorts while Nusa
Nusa Lembongan .... 136 Dua attempts to bring order out of chaos with an insulated
pasture of five-star hotels. The south coast sees posh cliff-
side resorts, but the west side is where the real action is.
Small coves and beaches dotted with edgy guesthouses and
Best Places luxe eco-resorts enjoy a cool vibe and fab surfing.
To the east, Nusa Penida dominates the horizon, but in its
to Eat lee you’ll find Nusa Lembongan, the ultimate island escape
from the island of Bali.
¨ Bumbu Bali (p120)
¨ Depot Cak Asmo (p132)
¨ Men Gabrug (p132) When to Go
¨ Deck Cafe & Bar (p140) ¨ The best time to visit south Bali is outside high season,
which is July, August and the weeks around Christmas
and New Year’s Day. Visitor numbers spike and rooms
Best Places from Bingin to Tanjung Benoa and Sanur to Nusa
to Sleep Lembongan may be filled. Many prefer April to June and
September when crowds are manageable.
¨ Temple Lodge (p110)
¨ Surfing is best at the world-class breaks along the west
¨ Four Seasons Jimbaran coast of the Bukit Peninsula from February to November,
Bay (p105) with May to August being especially good.
¨ Sofitel Bali Nusa Dua ¨ To surf at the breaks in Nusa Lembongan, aim for
Beach Resort (p116) October to March.
¨ Rock’n Reef (p111)
¨ Alila Villas Uluwatu (p114)
¨ Tandjung Sari (p123)

103
5 km 2.5 miles

Selat Lombok # Karangsari # Suana #Semaya \ INDIAN OCEAN
# Sampalan
0 0 \ \ \ # #Tanglad 7 Diving Nusa Penida (p143) Swimming with manta rays and other large fish in the challenging waters off this
e # \ Penida Pejukatan \ mysterious island.


Pura Dalem Penetaran Ped 7 Þ # # # Nusa \ \ # Ped # Klumpu \ R Bukit Mundi (529m) \ # # \




Jungutbatu : : South Bali & the iSlandS
: : :oyapakeh T : : # Sakti \ Batumadeg 6 Nusa Lembongan (p136) escaping one island (Bali) for a more peaceful smaller one, with an ideal mix of fun and
: \ # æ # 6 : # Nusa \ Ceningan : Crystal Ù # Bay Beach frolic.
Nusa Lembongan Lembongan #




South Bali & the iSlandS S
Selat Badung South Bali & the iSlandS BoUTh BALi & The iSL ANDS highLighTS

# # Ù 4 Sanur (p120) Watching as a full moon climbs over Nusa 5 Denpasar (p128) Savouring the best US$2 meal
Ù Ù Ù # # # Ù \ # Boats to the Gilis & Lombok Penida. you’ve ever had.

# Ketewel # Padang Galak Ù Beach
\ # \ Nusa Lembongan
# æ # # Boats to æ f Harbour Bali Mandara Toll Rd
Bali Orchid Garden # Denpasar 4 Sanur # Tegalwagni # \ Pesanggaran # \ # Suwung \ # # Serangan Ponjok \ f # \ Dukuh Pulau Serangan #Tanjung \ Benoa Jl Ngurah # Rai Bypass \ # Nusa Dua \ to stay the night in the back 3 Ulu Watu (p113) Surfing Bali’s ultim





Kerobokan # \ ^ # æ # 5 Kerobokan \ # #Seminyak \ #Legian \ Ù # # Kuta \ # Ù Tuban \ # Benoa f # # – Harbour Teluk Benoa # # Ù æ 1 # Bualu ÷ Kencana Cultural Park # Garuda Wisnu Jl Ulu Watu Jimbaran BUKIT PENINSULA # Ungasan \ # Kutuh \


# Batu Mejan #Canggu # Berawa \ \ # Legian Beach Kuta Beach Ngurah Rai Airport Teluk Jimbaran Jimbaran Beach \ # # Pecatu
#Seseh \ Beach # # Ù Ù Pecatu Indah
\ # \ Petitenget # Cenggiling \
# \ \ # Ù Balangan Ù 2 # # Ulu Watu 1 Jimbaran (p104) Picking a lobster for the grill at one of the many beachfront seafood
# Ù Echo Beach Teluk Kuta Dreamland Bingin Beach # Ù \ Þ # Pura Dalem Penetaran Ped 2 Bingin (p109) Finding a perfectly retro-chic place
Pererenan Beach Padang Padang Pantai # Ù Suluban # # æ 3 Ulu Watu joints.

104
BUKIT PENINSULA some langoustines are hawked. The action
is fast and furious.
%0361
Hot and arid, the southern peninsula is Morning Market mArkeT
known as Bukit (meaning ‘hill’ in Bahasa In- (Jl Ulu Watu; h6am-noon) This is one of the
donesia). It’s popular with visitors, from the best markets in Bali for a visit because a)
cloistered climes of Nusa Dua to the sybarit- it’s compact so you can see a lot without
ic retreats along the south coast. wandering forever; b) local chefs swear by
The booming west coast (often generi- the quality of the fruit and vegetables – ever
cally called Pecatu) with its string-of-pearls seen a cabbage that big?; and c) vendors are
beaches is a real hotspot. Accommodation used to tourists trudging about.
sits precariously on the sand at Balangan
Beach while the cliffs are dotted with idi- Pura Ulun Siwi hiNDU TemPLe
osyncratic lodges at Bingin and elsewhere. (Jl Ulu Watu) Across from the morning market,
New places sprout daily and most have this ebony-hued temple from the 18th centu-
views of the turbulent waters here, which ry is a snoozy place until it explodes with life,
have world-famous surf breaks all the way offerings, incense and more on a holy day.
south to the important temple of Ulu Watu.
The south coast east and west of Ungasan 4 Sleeping
is the site of some huge cliff-side resorts, with Some of south Bali’s most luxurious large re-
serene views of the limitless ocean, while sorts are found in and around Jimbaran, as
Nusa Dua and Tanjung Benoa cater to more well as a few midrange places off the beach.
traditional package-holidaymakers, who Most offer some form of shuttle through the
want a homogenised holiday experience. day to Kuta and beyond.
Being a much more ‘real’ place (ie it’s not
an artificially planned enclave), Jimbaran
Jimbaran makes a good resort alternative to the mon-
Just south of Kuta and the airport, Teluk oliths of Nusa Dua.
Jimbaran (Jimbaran Bay) is an alluring cres- Udayana Kingfisher Ecolodge LoDge $$
South Bali & the iSlandS JimBAr
cent of white-sand beach and blue sea, front- (%0361-747 4204; www.udayanaecolodge.com;
South Bali & the iSlandS SighTS AN
ed by a long string of seafood warungs (food Jl kampus Bukit; r from US$85; aiWs) S
stalls) and ending at the southern end in a You’ll feel like a butterfly perched in a green
bushy headland, home to the Four Seasons canopy from the 2nd-floor common areas
South Bali & the iSlandS BUkiT PeNiNSUL A
Jimbaran Bay. of this lodge, an oasis amid the Bukit buzz.
Despite increased popularity, Jimbaran There are grand views over south Bali; the 15
remains a relaxed alternative to Kuta and rooms are basic but comfortable; and there
Seminyak to the north (and you can’t beat is an inviting common area, with an excel-
the airport access!). Its markets are fun to lent library that includes copies of a butter-
visit too. fly book written by the managers.
1 Sights Keraton Jimbaran Resort hoTeL $$
oJimbaran Beach BeACh (%0361-701961; www.keratonjimbaranresort.
One of Bali’s best beaches, Jimbaran’s 4km- com; Jl mrajapati; r from 1,100,000rp; aiWs)
long arc of sand is mostly clean and there is Sharing the same idyllic Jimbaran beach as
no shortage of places to get a snack, drink or the neighbouring pricier resorts, the low-key
seafood dinner, or to rent a sunlounger. The Keraton is great value for a beachfront re-
bay is protected by an unbroken coral reef, sort. Its 102 rooms are scattered about one-
which keeps the surf more mellow than at and two-storey bungalow-style units. The
popular Kuta further north, although you can grounds are spacious and typically Bali-lush.
still get breaks that are fun for bodysurfing. Hotel Puri Bambu hoTeL $$
oJimbaran Fish Market mArkeT (%0361-701468; www.hotelpuribambu.com; Jl
(Jimbaran Beach; h6am-3pm) A popular Pengeracikan; r from 720,000rp; aiWs) A
morning stop on a Bukit Peninsula amble, mere 200m from the beach, the flash-free
this fish market is smelly, lively and frenet- Puri Bambu is an older but well-run place –
ic – watch where you step. Brightly painted and the best-value option in Jimbaran. The
boats bob along the shore while huge cases 48 standard rooms (some with tubs) are in
of everything from small sardines to fear- three-storey blocks around a large pool.

105
oBelmond Jimbaran Puri reSorT $$$ who perform cheery cover tunes (think the
(%0361-701605; www.belmond.com; off Jl Ulu Macarena). Almost all take credit cards. Ex-
Watu; cottages from 4,200,000rp; aiWs) pect mixed seafood grills to cost 90,000Rp
This luxurious beachside retreat is set in to 350,000Rp.
nice grounds complete with a maze-like pool
that looks on to open ocean. The 64 cottages Jimbaran # e 0 0 0.25 miles
500 m
and villas have private gardens, large terrac- 444 B
A
es and a stylish room design with sunken
tubs. It’s a lavish yet low-key escape. reSorT $$$ 444 : :
2
Jimbaran
Four Seasons Jimbaran Bay 1 Fish Market Jl Pantai : : 1 :
the 147 villas here are designed in a tradition- 444 Jl Ulu Watu : : : :
(%0361-701010; www.fourseasons.com; Jl Bukit
10
# ú
Permai; villas from US$600; aiWs) Each of
Northern
Seafood
# # æ æ Kedonganan
living pavilion overlooking a plunge pool. 444 8 È # ÿ È : :
Restaurants
al Balinese manner, complete with a carved
Jl Pantai
entranceway, which opens on to an open-air
Teluk
The site is a hillside overlooking Jimbaran Jimbaran Jimbaran
Jimbaran 1
Beach, which is a short walk away; most vil- 2 444 4 3 : Bypass : 2
Beach
0
# # Ù Ù !
las have sweeping views across the bay. Jl Pemelisan Ulunsiwi : : :
# Þ
# æ
Jl
(%0361-701888; www.bali.intercontinental.com; Jl 444 : : : : Jl Ngurah Rai : : : South Bali & the iSlandS JimBAr
Middle
:
Agung
13
# ú
Hotel Intercontinental Bali
Seafood
reSorT $$$
12
# ú
Restaurants
9
# ÿ
: :
Ulu Watu; r US$170-400; aiWs) With 419
city on the beach. Decorated with Balinese 444 : : : : : : : Teluk Benoa : : : : : : : : : : : : : :
5
Southern
Jl Yoga
# ÿ Perkanti
rooms, the Intercontinental is really a little
Seafood
: :
: : :
Restaurants
Immigrasi
:
:
7
arts and handicrafts, it tries to meld local # ÿ : : : : : : : D :
feed each other and meander through the 444 : : : II : 3
(2km)
Jl UluWatu
:
3
# ú
style to a huge resort. The plethora of pools
Jl Ulu Watu
11
:
:
:
Udayana
6
Kingfisher
grounds. There is a good kids’ club and it’s # ÿ Bukit Permai 15 : # þ D Ecolodge (400m) :
# ü 14
Jl
South Bali & the iSlandS e ATiNg AN
on a prime swathe of beach. 444 B
A
5 Eating
South Bali & the iSlandS BUkiT PeNiNSUL A
Jimbaran’s three groups of seafood restau- Jimbaran
rants cook fresh barbecued seafood every æ Top Sights
evening (and lunch at many), drawing tour- 1 Jimbaran Beach....................................A2
ists from across the south. The open-sided 2 Jimbaran Fish Market .......................... A1
affairs are right by the beach and perfect
for enjoying sea breezes and sunsets. Tables æ Sights
and chairs are set up on the sand almost to 3 Morning Market.....................................B2
4 Pura Ulun Siwi .......................................B2
the water’s edge. Arrive before sunset, so

you can get a good table and enjoy the solar ÿ Sleeping
show over a couple of beers before you dine. 5 Belmond Jimbaran Puri.......................A3
Fixed prices for seafood platters in a 6 Four Seasons Jimbaran Bay...............A3
plethora of varieties have become common 7 Hotel Intercontinental Bali...................A3
and allow you to avoid the sport of choosing 8 Hotel Puri Bambu ................................. B1
your fish and then paying for it by weight on 9 Keraton Jimbaran Resort....................A2
scales that cause locals to break out in laugh- ú Eating
ter. However, be sure to agree on costs first. 10 Jimbaran Bay Seafood......................... A1
Generally, you can enjoy a seafood feast, sides 11 Made Bagus Cafe..................................A3
and a couple of beers for less than US$20 per 12 Warung Bamboo...................................A2
person. Lobster (from US$30) will bump that 13 Warung Ramayana...............................A2
figure up considerably.
The best kitchens marinate the fish in û Drinking & Nightlife
garlic and lime, then douse it with chilli and 14 Jimbaran Beach Club...........................A3
oil while grilling over coconut husks. Thick
clouds of smoke from the coals are part þ Shopping
15 Jenggala Keramik Bali Ceramics........B3
of the atmosphere, as are roaming bands,

106
Northern Seafood Restaurants north end of the southern group; the staff
The northern seafood restaurants run south serving their narrow patch of tables on the
from the fish market along Jl Kedonganan beach here radiate charm. Go for one of the
and Jl Pantai Jimbaran. This is the area you mixed platters and ask for extra sauce, it’s
will likely be taken to by a taxi if you don’t that good.
specify otherwise. Most of these places are
restaurant-like, with tables inside and out 6 Drinking & Nightlife
on the raked sand. However, the area lacks Jimbaran Beach Club CAFe
the fun atmosphere of the two areas to the (%0361-709959; Jl Pantai muaya; minimum spend
south. 200,000rp; h8am-11pm; W) Just in case
Jimbaran Bay Seafood SeAFooD $$ Jimbaran Bay wasn’t alluring enough, this
(JBS; %0361-701517; Jl Pantai kedonganan; mains beach bar has a long pool bordering the
from 100,000rp; h11am-10pm) The menu as- sand. It’s rather upscale; you can rent a com-
sures patrons that seeing the prices means fy lounger and umbrella and enjoy ordering
‘Don’t be worry!’ Part of the rather staid from a long drinks and food menu.
northern group, JBS is especially welcoming Rock Bar BAr
with a huge variety of tables: inside under (%0361-702222; www.ayanaresort.com/rockbar-
cover, on the concrete terrace or out where bali; Jl karang mas Sejahtera, Ayana resort; h4pm-
your toes can tickle the sand. 1am; W) Star of a thousand glossy articles
Middle Seafood Restaurants written about Bali, this bar perched 14m
The middle seafood restaurants are in a above the crashing Indian Ocean is very
popular. In fact, at sunset the wait to ride
compact and atmospheric group just south the lift down to the bar can top one hour.
of Jl Pantai Jimbaran and Jl Pemelisan There’s a no-backpacks, no-singlets dress
Agung. These are the simplest affairs, with code. The food is Med-flavoured bar snacks.
old-fashioned thatched roofs and wide-open
sides. The beach is a little less manicured, 7 Shopping
with the fishing boats resting up on the
sand. Huge piles of coconut husks await Jenggala Keramik
their turn on the fires. Bali Ceramics CerAmiCS
(%0361-703311; www.jenggala.com; Jl Ulu Watu ii;
Warung Bamboo SeAFooD $$ h8am-8pm) This modern warehouse show-
(off Jl Pantai Jimbaran; meals 80,000-200,000rp; cases beautiful ceramic homewares that are
South Bali & the iSlandS DriNkiNg & Nigh
hnoon-10pm) Warung Bamboo is slightly a favourite Balinese purchase. There’s a view-
South Bali & the iSlandS AroUND JimBArAN
more appealing than its neighbours, all of ing area where you can watch production, as
South Bali & the iSlandS BUkiT PeNiNSUL A TLiFe
which have a certain raffish charm. The well as a cafe. Ceramic courses are available
menu is dead simple: choose your seafood for adults and children; a paint-a-pot scheme
and the sides and sauces are included. lets you create your own work of art (ready
five days later after a trip through the kiln).
Warung Ramayana SeAFooD $$
(%0361-702859; off Jl Pantai Jimbaran; mains 8 Getting There & Away
from 80,000rp; h11am-10pm) Fishing boats
dot the beach in front of this long-running Plenty of taxis wait around the beachfront
favourite. The seafood marinates from the warungs in the evening to take diners home
early morning and grills smoke all evening. (about 140,000rp to Seminyak). Some of the
The menu has useful fixed prices so you can seafood warungs provide free transport if you
avoid bargaining. call first.
The kura-kura tourist bus (p389) has a route
Southern Seafood Restaurants linking Jimbaran with its kuta hub. Buses run
The southern seafood restaurants (also every 75 minutes and cost 40,000rp.
called the Muaya group) are a compact and
festive collection of about a dozen places at
the south end of the beach. There’s a parking Around Jimbaran
area off Jl Bukit Permai, and the beach here Folding around limestone bluffs, Tegalwan-
is well groomed, with nice trees. gi Beach, 4.5km southwest of Jimbaran, is
Made Bagus Cafe SeAFooD $$ the first of cove after cove holding patches
(%0361-701858; off Jl Bukit Permai; meals 80,000- of alluring sand all down the west coast of
200,000rp; hnoon-10pm) Tucked away at the the peninsula. A small parking area lies in

107
front of Pura Segara Tegalwangi temple, a cariously line the shore where buffed First
popular place for addressing the ocean gods. World bods soak up rays amid Third World
There’s usually a lone drinks vendor offering sanitation. Think of it as a bit of the Wild
refreshment before – or after – you make the West not far from Bali’s glitz.
short but challenging trip over the bad paths
down to the beach. Immediately south, the 1 Sights & Activities
vast Ayana Resort sprawls over the cliffs. At the northern end of the beach is a small
From Jimbaran, take Jl Bukit Permai for temple, Pura Dalem Balangan. Bamboo
3km until the gates of the Ayana, where it beach shacks line the southern end; visitors
veers west 1.5km to the temple. laze away with one eye cast on the action at
the fast-left surf break here.
You can access the beach via rough tracks
Central Bukit from two parking areas: the north end is
Jl Ulu Watu goes south of Jimbaran, climb- near the uncrowded temple, the south end
ing 200m up the peninsula’s namesake hill, is above and back from the beach bars.
affording views over southern Bali. As the
region has surged in popularity, traffic has 4 Sleeping
become a major problem. Balangan Beach has some established guest-
About 2km south of Garuda Wisnu Ken- houses up on the bluff, five minutes from
cana Cultural Park is a vital crossroads with the surf. Down on the sand, things are much South Bali & the iSlandS SighTS
a useful landmark, the Nirmala Supermar- more ad hoc, with everything seeming to be
ket (Jl Ulu Watu; h8am-10pm). There are ATMs one pass of a bulldozer from oblivion. At the South Bali & the iSlandS CeNTrAL BUkiT
and cafes, and you can reach all points on latter option you can negotiate for small, win-
the Bukit from here. dowless thatched rooms in bars next to cases
of Bintang. Don’t pay more than 180,000Rp.
1 Sights Numerous guesthouses are appearing on
Garuda Wisnu the access road from Jl Ulu Watu, but many
Kencana Cultural Park VieWPoiNT are far from the beach.
(gWk; %0361-703603; www.gwk-culturalpark. Santai Bali Homestay BUNgALoW $
com; Jl raya Ulu Watu; 100,000rp; h9am-10pm; (%0338-695942; www.facebook.com/santai-
c) After years of false starts, the gigantic warungbalihomestay; from 220,000rp) Right on
Garuda Wisnu Kencana Cultural Park is un- the sands of Balangan Beach, the 12 bare-
South Bali & the iSlandS BUkiT PeNiNSUL A
der construction. When finished, the cen- bones rooms at this shack bungalow are
trepiece will be a 120m-tall monument that perfect for surfers and beach bums wanting
includes a 66m-high statue of Garuda (you easy access to the water. Its restaurant has
can already see the basic structure from tables and chairs plonked on the beach.
across south Bali). This Brobdingnagian
dream is meant to be on top of a shopping Balangan Sea View Bungalow gUeSThoUSe $
and gallery complex. For now, the sweeping (%0851 0080 0499; www.balanganseaview-
views from the parking area don’t justify bungalow.com; off Jl Pantai Balangan; r with fan/
the entrance fee. air-con from 350,000/450,000rp, bungalow from
700,000rp; aWs) A cluster of thatched
5 Eating bungalows (some with multiple rooms) are
Bali Buda CAFe $ the pick here. The 25 rooms surround a 14m
(%0361-701980; Jl Ulu Watu; treats from 20,000rp; pool in an attractive compound; some have
h8am-8pm) A small outlet of the excellent sea views.
island-wide bakery/cafe chain. La Joya hoTeL $$
(%0811 399 0048; www.la-joya.com; Jl Pantai
Balangan Beach Balangan; r US$95-120; aWs) The pick of
the Balangan bunch, these two luxe com-
Balangan Beach is a long, low strand at the pounds have hotel rooms, bungalows and
base of rocky cliffs. It’s covered with palm villas. There are 21 different units, but all
trees and fronted by a ribbon of near-white enjoy their position on the lush grounds.
sand, picturesquely dotted with sun umbrel- Sinuous curves dominate from the lines of
las. Surfer bars, cafes in shacks and even the rooms to the infinity pool. The beach is
slightly more permanent guesthouses pre- a short walk.

108
Balangan Beach & Ulu Watu
A B C D E F
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South Bali & the iSlandS BAL AN
# ÿ 17 Jl Pantai
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Þ Þ
South Bali & the iSlandS BUkiT PeNiNSUL A
South Bali & the iSlandS e ATiNg gAN Be ACh
# 37
ý
4444
5 5
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INDIAN OCEAN # ÿ
A B C D E F
Flower Bud Bungalows gUeSThoUSe $$ Nerni keeps a close watch on things; simple
(%0816 472 2310, 0828 367 2772; www.flowerbud- sleeping rooms (from 200,000Rp) are cleaner
balangan.com; off Jl Pantai Balangan; r incl break- than the competition. She may seem dour but
fast from 550,000rp; Ws) On top of a knoll, is smiling on the inside. We think.
14 bamboo bungalows are set on spacious,
pretty grounds near a classic kidney-shaped Nasa Café CAFe $
pool. There’s a certain Crusoe-esque motif, (meals from 30,000rp; h8am-11pm) Inside the
and a small spa. shady bamboo bar built on stilts above the
sand, the wraparound view through the
5 Eating drooping thatched roof is of a vibrant azure
Nerni Warung iNDoNeSiAN $ ribbon of crashing surf. The simple Indo
meals set the tone for the four very basic
(%0813 5381 4090; mains from 30,000rp) Down rooms (about 200,000Rp) off the bar. It’s
on the sand at the south end of the beach, this one of several similar choices.
simple place has great views from its cafe.

109
Balangan Beach & Ulu Watu # e 0 0 1 mile 2 km for the thicket of accommodation signs) and
A B C D 36 E F then branches off into a tangle of lanes.
44 sylvan cliffs dropping down to surfer ca-
The scenery here is simply superb, with
# û
44 (1.2km) steep paths. The surf here is often savage but
1 Jimbaran 1 fes and the foaming edge of the azure sea.
The beach is a five-minute walk down fairly
D
the boulder-strewn sands are serene and the
roaring breakers mesmerising.
An elderly resident collects 5000Rp at a
Bukit
Peninsula T-junction near where you park for the trail
# ö down to the beach.
3
2 2 4 Sleeping
Jl Ulu Watu stay. Numerous individual places are scat-
# \ Cenggiling This is one of the Bukit’s coolest places to
tered along and near the cliffs, well off the
1 1 1 main road. You can also get basic accommo-
1 1 1 dation down the cliff at a string of bamboo
1 1 1
1 1 1 and thatch surfer crash pads near the water. South Bali & the iSlandS BiNgiN
3 33 # ú 3 Adi’s Homestay BUNgALoW $
27 # ú (%0816 297 106, 0815 5838 8524; Jl Pantai Bingin; South Bali & the iSlandS geT TiNg There &
r with fan/air-con from US$22/39; aW) The nine South Bali & the iSlandS BUkiT PeNiNSUL A AWAy
Jl Masula Ungasan (1.5km); are comfy. It’s down a very small lane, near
bungalow-style rooms facing a nice garden
D
the beach parking. It has a small cafe.
Green Bowl
Beach (3km) # \ Chocky’s Place gUeSThoUSe $
(%0818 0530 7105; www.chockysplace.com;
4 4 Bingin Beach; r 100,000-400,000rp; W) Down
the bottom of the stairs and right on Bingin
Beach, this classic surfer hang-out has cosy
rooms varying from charming with awe-
some views to rudimentary with shared
bathrooms. Its bamboo restaurant looks out
to the beach; it’s a great place to meet fellow
travellers over a few cold ones.
5 5
4 44 444 (%0361-743 4424; www.binginbungalows.com;
4
# ÿ13 # Ø Kembang Kuning Bungalows gUeSThoUSe $
# ÿ18
10
4 44 444 modern two-storey bungalow-style blocks.
4
A B C D E F off Jl Pantai Bingin; r from US$60; Ws) The
best-value cliff-side option has 12 rooms in
8 Getting There & Away The grounds are thickly landscaped but the
Balangan Beach is 6.2km off Jl Ulu Watu on Jl real appeal is the infinity swimming pool on
the edge of the limestone and the various
Pantai Balangan. Turn west at the crossroads at nearby loungers, all with sensational views.
Nirmala Supermarket (p107).
Taxis from the kuta area cost at least 70,000rp Bingin Garden gUeSThoUSe $
per hour for the round trip and waiting time. (%0816 472 2002; tommybarrell76@yahoo.
com; off Jl Pantai Bingin; r with fan/air-con
Bingin 280,000/400,000rp; aWs) There’s a re-
laxed hacienda feel to Bingin Garden, where
An ever-evolving scene, Bingin comprises six bungalow-style rooms are set among an
scores of unconventionally stylish lodgings arid garden and a large pool. It’s back off the
scattered across cliffs and on the strip of cliffs and about 300m from the path down
white-sand Bingin Beach below. Smooth Jl to the beach. It’s run by gun local surfer
Pantai Bingin runs 1km off Jl Melasti (look Tommy Barrell and his lovely wife.

110
Balangan Beach & Ulu Watu
æ Top Sights 21 Mamo Hotel..............................................A3
1 Pura Luhur Ulu Watu.............................. A4 Mick's Place ....................................(see 12)
Mu....................................................(see 25)

æ Sights 22 PinkCoco Bali...........................................B3
2 Balangan Beach.......................................D1 23 Rock'n Reef..............................................B2
3 Garuda Wisnu Kencana Cultural 24 Santai Bali Homestay ............................. D1
Park.........................................................F2 Secret Garden.................................(see 12)
4 Impossibles Beach ................................. B2 25 Temple Lodge..........................................C2
5 Padang Padang Beach........................... B3 26 Uluwatu Cottages....................................A3
6 Pura Dalem Balangan..............................D1
Pura Mas Suka ...............................(see 18) ú Eating
7 Suluban Beach........................................ A3 27 Bali Buda...................................................F3
28 Buddha Soul.............................................B3

Ø Activities, Courses & Tours Cashew Tree ...................................(see 12)
8 Impossibles ............................................. B2 29 Drifter........................................................C3
9 Padang Padang....................................... B2 30 Mango Tree Cafe.....................................B3
10 Sundays Beach Club...............................E5 31 Nasa Café................................................. D1
11 Ulu Watu................................................... A3 32 Nerni Warung........................................... D1
33 Nirmala Supermarket.............................F3

ÿ Sleeping 34 Om Burger................................................B3
12 Adi's Homestay....................................... C2 35 Single Fin..................................................A3
13 Alila Villas Uluwatu ..................................E5
14 Balangan Sea View Bungalow................D1 û Drinking & Nightlife
15 Bingin Garden.......................................... C2 Delpi .................................................. (see 7)
Chocky's Place...............................(see 12) 36 Rock Bar....................................................E1
16 Delpi Uluwatu .......................................... A3
Flower Bud Bungalows .................(see 14) ý Entertainment
17 Gong ......................................................... A4 37 Kecak Dance ............................................A4
18 Karma Kandara........................................F5
Kembang Kuning Bungalows.......(see 25) þ Shopping
South Bali & the iSlandS BiNgiN
South Bali & the iSlandS e ATiNg
19 La Joya ......................................................D1 White Monkey Surf Shop..............(see 28)
20 Le Sabot................................................... B3
oTemple Lodge BoUTiQUe hoTeL $$ individual bungalows with thatched roofs
South Bali & the iSlandS BUkiT PeNiNSUL A
(%0857 3901 1572; www.thetemplelodge.com; off are scattered about a compound dominated
Jl Pantai Bingin; r incl breakfast US$80-230; Ws) by a cliff-side infinity pool. All have open-air
‘Artsy and beautiful’ just begins to describe living spaces; some have air-con bedrooms
this collection of huts and cottages made and hot tubs with a view. Two units have
from thatch, driftwood and other natural ma- multiple bedrooms. There’s an excellent cafe
terials. Each sits on the cliffs above the surf as well as a yoga studio.
breaks, and there are superb views from the
infinity pool and some of the units. You can Secret Garden gUeSThoUSe $$
arrange meals, and there are yoga classes. (%0816 474 7255; r from 450,000rp; W) Taste-
ful and ultra laid-back, this guesthouse has
Mick’s Place BoUTiQUe hoTeL $$ open-plan bamboo bungalows with futon
(%0812 391 3337; www.micksplacebali.com; off Jl beds, and a design that incorporates its
Pantai Bingin; r from US$100, villa from US$300; natural environment. It’s run by a Japanese
aWs) A hippy-chic playground where surfer-photographer who has good knowl-
you rough it in style, Mick’s never has more edge of local waves. It’s at the top of the hill
than 16 guests. Five artful bungalows and near the path leading down to the beach.
one luxe villa are set in lush grounds. The
turquoise water in the postage-stamp-sized 5 Eating
infinity pool matches the turquoise sea be- oCashew Tree
low. By day there’s a 180-degree view of the CAFe $
world-famous surf breaks. (%0813 5321 8157; www.facebook.com/the-cash-
ew-tree; Jl Pantai Bingan; meals from 40,000rp;
Mu gUeSThoUSe $$ h8am-10pm; Wv) The place to hang out
(%0361-895 7442; www.mu-bali.com; off Jl Pantai in Bingin. Surfers and beachgoers gath-
Bingin; r US$80-220; aWs) S The 12 very er in this large garden for tasty vegetarian

111
meals. Expect the likes of burritos, salads, a stream flows into the sea. Parking is easy
sandwiches and smoothies. It’s also a good and it is a short walk to the beach. Experi-
spot for a drink; Thursday nights especially enced surfers flock here for the tubes.
go off, attracting folk from up and down the Impossibles Beach BeACh
coast with live bands.
About 100m west of Jl Pantai Bingin on Jl
Drifter CAFe $ Melasti, you’ll see another turn towards the
(http://driftersurf.com; Jl Labuan Sait; mains from ocean. Follow this paved road for 700m and
50,000rp; h10am-10pm) Right at the turn look for a scrawled sign on a wall reading
to Bingin, this new outlet of the awesome Impossibles Beach. Follow the treacherous
Seminyak surf shop has a great cafe that will path and you’ll soon understand the name.
tempt anyone driving past. All the Drifter It’s a tortuous trek but you’ll be rewarded
surf goods are on offer, plus you can settle with an empty cove with splotches of creamy
back at a table inside or out for some of the sand between boulders.
Bukit’s best coffee and a range of snacks,
healthy lunches and alluring cakes. 2 Activities
You can rent surfboards to hit the breaks
8 Getting There & Away right offshore. It can get very crowded in
A metered taxi from kuta will cost about high season. Many surf competitions are
200,000rp and take at least an hour, depending held here.
on traffic.
oPadang Padang SUrFiNg
Padang for short, this super-shallow, left- South Bali & the iSlandS PADANg PADANg
Padang Padang hand reef break is off a very popular beach South Bali & the iSlandS BUkiT PeNiNSUL A AWAy
The namesake beach here is near Jl Labuan and just below some rickety accommodation
Sait. It’s fairly easily reached. Immediately joints where you can crash and watch the
east, Impossibles Beach is more of a chal- breaks. Check carefully before venturing
lenge. Rocks and tide may prevent you from out. It’s a very demanding break that only
coming over from Padang Padang. works if it’s over about 6ft from mid- to high
Both, however, are the stuff tropical surf tide. The best times for a good swell here are
dreams are made of. The backdrop of rocky June to August.
cliff faces gives them an isolated feel you Impossibles SUrFiNg
won’t get in Kuta or Seminyak. A very cool Just north of Padang Padang, this challeng-
South Bali & the iSlandS geT TiNg There &
scene has developed, with groovy cafes, odd- ing outside reef break has three shifting
ball sleeps and iconoclastic surf shops. peaks with fast left-hand tube sections that
On Saturdays and full-moon nights there’s can join up if the conditions are perfect.
a party on the beach at Padang Padang, with
grilled seafood and tunes until dawn. 4 Sleeping
1 Sights To get really close to the waves, consider one
of the cliff-side guesthouses that are reached
Parking is easy at Padang Padang and it’s by a steep path down from the bluff. The
a short walk through a temple and down a trail starts at the end of a twisting lane that
well-paved trail where you’ll be hit up for runs for 200m from Jl Labuan Sait just west
bananas by monkeys. There are patches of of Om Burger. Note, however, that a fire de-
shade near the sand plus a couple of simple stroyed and damaged some of these places
warungs. The beach-bar scene of Eat Pray in 2016. Rebuilding is ongoing so check the
Love was filmed here (using a bar set that’s latest situation before you book.
long gone).
If you’re feeling adventurous, you can en- oRock’n Reef BoUTiQUe hoTeL $$
joy a much longer stretch of nearly deserted (%0813 5336 3507; www.rock-n-reef.com; impos-
white sand that begins on the west side of sibles Beach; r incl breakfast US$105-125; aW)
the river. Ask locals how to get there or take Six individualistic bungalows are built into
the precipitous stairs by Thomas Homestay the rocks on Impossibles Beach. All share
off the main road. the stunning views of the ocean directly
in front. Each has a rustic, artful design
Padang Padang Beach BeACh with natural materials such as stucco and
Slight in size but not in perfection, this little driftwood. There are private balconies and
cove is near the main Ulu Watu road where sunny decks. An all-day cafe offers simple

112
PILLAGING BUKIT PENINSULA
Many environmentalists consider the always-arid Bukit Peninsula a harbinger for the
challenges that face the rest of Bali, as land use far outpaces the water supply. The small
guesthouses that once perched above and on the string of pearls that are the beaches
on the west side are being supplanted by large water-sucking developments. Besides the
vast Pecatu Indah complex, many more projects such as the controversial Kempinski
Hotel near Nusa Dua are carving away the beautiful limestone cliffs to make way for huge
concrete structures housing resorts.
There are few controls to regulate the growth; many of the vehicles stuck with you in
traffic jams on Jl Ulu Watu will be water trucks that service the area’s thirst by the hun-
dreds daily. Meanwhile, a road-building frenzy on the southern coast has sparked a villa
building boom, most with private pools.
Grassroots efforts to control growth have been diverted to an effort to save the vast
Benoa Bay mangroves at the base of Bukit from that vast development.


Indonesian meals. During peak surf season, enjoy healthy, organic meals such as grilled
staying here is a fantasy. calamari, chicken salad and lentil burgers.
PinkCoco Bali hoTeL $$ Om Burger BUrgerS $$
(%0361-895 7371; http://pnkhotels.com; Jl Labuan (%0812 391 3617; Jl Labuan Sait; mains from
Sait; r US$75-135; aWs) One of the pools at 55,000rp; h7am-10pm; W) ‘Superfood burg-
this romantic hotel is suitably tiled pink. ers’ – that’s the come-on at this joint with
The 12 rooms have terraces and balconies, nice 2nd-floor views. The burgers are indeed
plus artistic touches. There is a lush Mexi- super and supersized. The wagyu burger is
can motif throughout, with an appealing the speciality, but the nasi goreng veggie
mix of white walls accented with bold, trop- burger is unique. There are intimations of
ical colours. Surfers are catered to and you health across the menu: baked sweet-potato
South Bali & the iSlandS e ATiNg
can rent bikes and other gear. fries, vitamin-filled juices and more. It’s very
popular; expect to wait for a table at night.
Le Sabot BUNgALoW $$
(%0812 3768 0414; www.lesabotbali.com; r from 7 Shopping
South Bali & the iSlandS BUkiT PeNiNSUL A
700,000rp) This collection of cliff-face bun-
galows was damaged in the 2016 fire. Con- White Monkey Surf Shop SPorTS & oUTDoorS
South Bali & the iSlandS ULU WATU & AroUND
firm their status before trying to stay here. (%0853 3816 7729; www.instagram.com/white-
The location itself is superb – you cannot monkey_surfshop; Jl Labuan Sait 63; surfboard
sleep closer to one of the world’s best surf rental used/new 150,000/250,000rp; h10am-
breaks. When open, the bungalows are a 10pm) Great little surf shop offers board sales
steep descent from the bluff. and rental, plus gear.
5 Eating Ulu Watu & Around
Mango Tree Cafe CAFe $$
(%0813 5309 8748; Jl Labuan Sait 17; mains Ulu Watu has become the generic name for
50,000-120,000rp; h7am-10pm) This two-lev- the southwestern tip of the Bukit Peninsula.
el cafe has a long menu of healthy options. It includes the much-revered temple and the
Sandwiches and the tasty burgers have fabled namesake surf breaks.
amazing buns. The salads, soups, breakfast About 2km north of the temple there is a
burritos and more are fresh and interesting. dramatic cliff with steps leading to the water
There are good juices and a decent drinks and Suluban Beach. All manner of cafes and
list. Try for a table under the namesake tree. surf shops spill down the nearly sheer face
The owner, Maria, is a generous delight. to the water below. Views are stellar and it’s
quite the scene.
Buddha Soul CAFe $$
(%0361-897338; www.facebook.com/buddha- 1 Sights & Activities
soul; Jl Labuan Sait; mains 50,000-150,000rp; oPura Luhur Ulu Watu hiNDU TemPLe
h7.30am-10pm; Wv) This chilled-out road- (off Jl Ulu Watu; adult/child 30,000/20,000rp, park-
side cafe has an outdoor deck where you can
ing 2000rp; h8am-7pm) This important temple

113
is perched precipitously on the southwestern tant ocean views. It’s about 1km south of the
tip of the peninsula, atop sheer cliffs that drop Ulu Watu cliff-side cafes; the host family is
straight into the ceaseless surf. You enter lovely. Ongoing renovations should improve
through an unusual arched gateway flanked conditions and raise rates.
by statues of Ganesha. Inside, the walls of cor- Delpi Uluwatu gUeSThoUSe $
al bricks are covered with intricate carvings (%0361-769863; Ulu Watu; r with fan/air-con from
of Bali’s mythological menagerie. 400,000/450,000rp) Four very basic cliff-side
Only Hindu worshippers can enter the rooms rattle to the beat of the surf day and
small inner temple that is built on to the night. Set in the rocks amid the various bars,
jutting tip of land. However, the views of the this is the place if all you want is a 24-hour
endless swells of the Indian Ocean from the view of the breaks.
cliffs are almost spiritual. At sunset, walk
around the clifftop to the left (south) of the oUluwatu Cottages BUNgALoW $$
temple to lose some of the crowd. (%0857 9268 1715; www.facebook.com/uluwatu-
Ulu Watu is one of several important tem- cottages/about; off Jl Labuan Sait; r US$68-130;
ples to the spirits of the sea along the south aWs) Fourteen bungalows are spread
coast of Bali. In the 11th century the Java- across a large site right on the cliff, just
nese priest Empu Kuturan first established 400m east of the Ulu Watu cafes (about
a temple here. The complex was added to 200m off Jl Labuan Sait). The units are com-
by Nirartha, another Javanese priest who fortable, have individual terraces and enjoy
is known for the seafront temples at Tanah views that are simply stunning. The pool is South Bali & the iSlandS ULU WATU
Lot, Rambut Siwi and Pura Sakenan. Nirar- large and a great place to lose a day.
tha retreated to Ulu Watu for his final days Mamo Hotel South Bali & the iSlandS BUkiT PeNiNSUL A
hoTeL $$
when he attained moksa (freedom from (%0361-769882; www.mamohoteluluwatu.com; Jl
earthly desires). Labuan Sait; r US$35-90; aWs) Right at the
A popular Kecak dance is held in the tem- entrance to the area above the Ulu Watu
ple grounds at sunset. breaks, this modern 30-room hotel is a
Suluban Beach BeACh good mainstream choice. The three-storey
While others paddle out to the Ulu Watu main building surrounds a pool and there’s
surf breaks, you can linger on this strip of a breezy basic cafe. The rooftop parties on
sand in an uberdramatic setting: limestone Friday nights are a major event.
cliffs and caves surround the beach. Check
the tides before making the steep climb 5 Eating & Drinking
down. Delpi CAFe
South Bali & the iSlandS SLeePiNg & AroUND
oUlu Watu SUrFiNg (h7am-8pm; W) A relaxed cafe-bar sitting
On its day Ulu Watu is Bali’s biggest and on a cliff away from other cafe spots, with
most powerful wave. It’s the stuff of dreams stunning views. One area is perched on a
and nightmares, and definitely not one for gigantic mushroom of concrete atop a rock
beginners! Since the early 1970s when it fea- out above the surf. The food is basic.
tured in the legendary surf flick Morning of Single Fin CAFe $$
the Earth, Ulu Watu has drawn surfers from (%0361-769941; www.singlefinbali.com; Jl mamo;
around the world for left breaks that seem mains 65,000-150,000rp; h8am-11pm; W) The
to go on forever. views of the surf action from this triple-
level cafe are breathtaking. Watch the never-
4 Sleeping ending swells march in across the Indian
The cliffs above the main Ulu Watu breaks Ocean from this cliff-side perch; it’s a great
are lined with cafes and bars. There are vari- spot to watch surfers carving it up when the
ous midrange places to stay; since most peo- waves are big. Drinks here aren’t cheap (or
ple are here for the view, quality inside the very good) and the food is merely passable,
rooms is not assured. but come sunset, who cares?
Gong gUeSThoUSe $ 3 Entertainment
(%0361-769976; www.thegonguluwatubali.com; Jl
Pantai Suluban; r from 250,000rp; iWs) The oKecak Dance DANCe
12 tidy rooms here have good ventilation and (Pura Luhur Ulu Watu, off Jl Ulu Watu; 100,000rp;
hot water, and face a small compound with hsunset) Although the performance obvi-
a lovely pool. Some 2nd-floor units have dis- ously caters for tourists, the gorgeous setting

114
at Pura Luhur Ulu Watu in a small amphi- when you reach the Karma Kandara resort,
theatre in a leafy part of the grounds makes which surrounds the temple. It’s a perfect
it one of the more evocative on the island. example of a Balinese seaside temple. It is
The views out to sea are as inspiring as the often closed, so consider that before setting
dance. It’s very popular in high season; ex- off on the rough track to the temple.
pect crowds.
Sundays Beach Club BeACh CLUB
8 Getting There & Away (%0361-848 2111; www.sundaysbeachclub.
com; Jl Pantai Selatan gau; day pass adult/child
The best way to see the Ulu Watu region is with 300,000/50,000rp; h9am-10pm) Located on
your own wheels. Note that the cops often set a pocket of powdery white sand at the base
up checkpoints near Pecatu indah for checks on of a cliff, this private beach club offers a full
motorcycle-riding Westerners. Be aware you may day’s worth of activities and pampering. Ad-
pay a fine for offences such as a ‘loose’ chin strap. mission includes a 150,000Rp credit, which
Coming to the Ulu Watu cliff-side cafes from the
east on Jl Labuan Sait you will first encounter an will go quickly in the bars, beachside spa
access road to parking near the cliffs. Continuing pavilions etc. There are weekend afternoon
over a bridge, there is a side road that leads to DJs, sunset bonfires and, crucially, an eleva-
another parking area, from where it is a pretty tor up and down the cliff.
200m walk north to the cliff-side cafes.
A taxi ride out here will cost at least 4 Sleeping
200,000rp from Seminyak and take more than Several luxurious resorts already have views
an hour in the coagulated traffic. out over the Indian Ocean from the high
limestone cliffs on the southern coast of the
Bukit. Many more are mooted, including a
Ungasan & Around newly opened Ritz-Carlton, a Kempinski
If Ulu Watu is all about celebrating surf cul- (which has been assailed for breaking Bali’s
ture, Ungasan is all about celebrating your- height limitations) and a Waldorf Astoria.
self. From crossroads near this otherwise oAlila Villas Uluwatu
nondescript village, roads radiate to the reSorT $$$
south coast where some of Bali’s most ex- (%0361-848 2166; www.alilahotels.com/uluwatu;
clusive oceanside resorts can be found. With Jl Belimbing Sari; r incl breakfast from US$800;
the infinite turquoise waters of the Indian aiWs) Visually stunning, this vast resort
Ocean rolling hypnotically in the distance has an artful contemporary style that is at
South Bali & the iSlandS geT TiNg There &
it’s hard not to think you’ve reached the end once light and airy while still conveying a
South Bali & the iSlandS UNgASAN & AroUND
of the world, albeit a very comfortable one. sense of luxury. The 85-unit Alila offers gra-
South Bali & the iSlandS BUkiT PeNiNSUL A AWAy
The scalloped cliff faces hide many a tiny cious service in a setting where the blue of
cove beach with white sand. Some are now the ocean contrasts with the green of the
crowded with top-end resorts, others await surrounding (hotel-tended) rice fields. It’s
discovery down perilous cliff-side stairs. 2km off Jl Ulu Watu.
Karma Kandara reSorT $$$
1 Sights & Activities (%0361-848 2200; www.karmaresorts.com; Jl Vil-
Green Bowl Beach BeACh la kandara Banjar; villa from US$450; aiWs)
(Jl Pura Batu Pageh; parking 5000rp) One of the This beautiful resort clings to the side of
Bukit’s southern-facing cove beaches, Green hills that roll down to the sea. Stone paths
Bowl is reached by a pretty and strenuous lead between walled villas draped in bou-
walk down 300 concrete steps that begin gainvillea and punctuated by painted doors,
near the Pura Batu Pageh temple and the creating the mood of a tropical hill town.
failed Bali Cliff Resort. This splotch of sand The restaurant, Di Mare (meals US$15 to
is uncrowded during the week but draws $30), is linked to the bifurcated property by
many at weekends (including a few per- a little bridge; there’s a beach elevator.
sistent vendors). There are caves, bats and
monkeys. The water is deep turquoise. Nusa Dua
Pura Mas Suka hiNDU TemPLe
This diminutive temple (one of seven devot- Nusa Dua translates literally as ‘Two Islands’ –
ed to the sea gods) is reached by a twisting although they are actually small raised head-
narrow road through a mostly barren red- lands, each with a small temple. But Nusa
rock landscape that changes dramatically Dua is much better known as Bali’s gated

115
compound of resort hotels. It’s a vast and 2 Activities
manicured place where you leave the rest Nusa Dua’s beaches are clean and raked;
of the island behind as you pass the guards. offshore reefs catch the swells, so the surf is
Gone is the chaos of the rest of the island. almost nil.
Built in the 1970s, Nusa Dua was designed All the resort hotels have pricey spas that
to compete with international beach resorts provide a broad range of therapies, treat-
the world over. Balinese ‘culture’, in the form ments and just plain, simple relaxation. The
of condensed cultural displays, is literally most lauded of the spas are at the Amanusa,
trucked in nightly in an effort to make it Westin and St Regis hotels. All are open to
seem like less of a generic beach resort. nonguests; expect fees for a massage to start
With more than 20 large resorts and at US$100.
thousands of hotel rooms, Nusa Dua can live
up to some of its promise when full, but dur- oBeach Promenade WALkiNg
ing slack times it’s desolate. One of the nicest features of Nusa Dua is the
5km-long beach promenade that stretches
1 Sights the length of the resort from Pura Gegar
oPasifika Museum mUSeUm in the south and north along much of the
(%0361-774559; www.museum-pasifika.com; Bali beach through Tanjung Benoa.
Collection shopping centre, block P; 70,000rp; Nusa Dua SUrFiNg
h10am-6pm) When groups from nearby re- During wet season, the reef off Nusa Dua South Bali & the iSlandS NUSA D
sorts aren’t around, you’ll probably have this has very consistent swells. The main break South Bali & the iSlandS SighTS UA
large museum to yourself. A collection of art is 1km off the beach to the south of Nusa South Bali & the iSlandS BUkiT PeNiNSUL A
from Pacific Ocean cultures spans several Dua – off Gegar Beach (where you can get
centuries and includes more than 600 paint- a boat out to the break). There are lefts and
ings (don’t miss the tikis). The influential rights that work well on a small swell at low
wave of European artists who thrived in Bali to midtide.
in the early 20th century is well represented.
Look for works by Arie Smit, Adrien-Jean Le Bali National Golf Resort goLF
Mayeur de Merpres and Theo Meier. There (%0361-771791; www.balinationalgolf.com; ka-
are also works by Matisse and Gauguin. wasan Wisata; course fees from 1,800,000rp;
h6.30am-6.30pm) This 18-hole links mean-
Pura Gegar hiNDU TemPLe ders through Nusa Dua and boasts a grand
(road toll 2500rp) Just south of Gegar Beach is clubhouse. The course plays to over 6500m.
a bluff with a good cafe and a path that leads
up to Pura Gegar, a compact temple shaded Gegar Beach BeACh
by gnarled old trees. Views are great and you (off Jl Nusa Dua Selatan; 3000rp; c) The once
can spot swimmers who’ve come south in gemlike Gegar Beach is now gem-sized with
the shallow, placid waters around the bluff the addition of a 700-room Mulia resort. The
for a little frolic. There’s a pleasant walkway public area has some cafes, rental loung-
up to the temple from the Nusa Dua beach ers and water activities (kayak/SUP rental
promenade. 100,000Rp per hour); it gets jammed on
weekends. Boats to Nusa Dua surf break be-
yond the reef cost 200,000Rp. You can also

PANDAWA BEACH
An old quarry on the remote southern coast of the Bukit Peninsula has been trans-
formed into a Hindu-shrine-cum-beach-attraction. Pay a steep admission price
(10,000Rp) to guards (who were swilling Bintang when we were there) and then descend
on a road through dramatically cut limestone cliffs. Large statues of Hindu deities are
carved into niches in the stone. At the base, you’ll find a long swathe of sand known as
Pandawa Beach, which is all but deserted weekdays except for a few village seaweed
farmers. But come weekends this makes for a major day trip for the Balinese.
Some warungs (food stalls) provide refreshments and sunlounger rental, and the
reef-protected waters are good for swimming. Look for Pandawa Beach signs on the
main road between Ungasan and Nusa Dua – Jl Dharmawangsa. It’s 2km down to the
village where you can park by the sand.

116
Nusa Dua # e 0 0 0.25 miles
500 m
: : A : : : : B C D
: : : : : 44
: : : : : : # 4
è
44
: : : : : Jl Pratama
: : : : : : Bali International
1 Jl Convention 1
: : : : Bali Nusa Dua Centre #
ÿ
: : : : : : Convention # # 8
4
:
:
:
: : :Ngurah Rai Bypass Center 6
: : : : : : # 444
Main
Gate Pasifika
4
Museum
Jl Raya Bvalu Ungasan 444
Beach Promenade
6
# # 1
â â
Golf
BUALU # ú 10 Course
444444
44
2 Jl Nusa Dua 12 # þ 2
NUSA
DUA
444444
# 6
Jl Srikandi
ÿ
South Gate
# ú
#
11
444444
Pantai Mengiat
3 Golf 3
Golf # Course
Ø
3
Course 444444
South Bali & the iSlandS SLeePiNg 666
Selat
Jl Terompong
Badung
# 7
ÿ
444444
444444
Ø
# 5
666 C D 4
South Bali & the iSlandS NUSA DUA
4
444444
# ú 9
# Þ 2
Jl Pura Gegar
South Bali & the iSlandS BUkiT PeNiNSUL A
A
B
Nusa Dua use the immaculate public sands in front of
æ Top Sights the resorts.
1 Pasifika Museum..................................... C2 4 Sleeping

æ Sights Nusa Dua resorts are similar in several ways:
666 B4 they are big (some are huge) with most ma-

2 Pura Gegar...............................................
jor international brands represented. Many
Ø Activities, Courses & Tours are right on the placid beach.
3 Bali National Golf Resort........................ B3 Major international brands such as Wes-
4 Beach Promenade...................................C1 tin and Hyatt have invested heavily, adding
5 Gegar Beach............................................ B4
loads of the amenities (such as elaborate

ÿ Sleeping pools and kids’ day camps). Other hotels
6 Grand Hyatt Bali...................................... C2 seem little changed from when they were
7 St Regis Bali Resort................................C3 built in the 1970s heyday of the Suharto era.
8 Westin Resort...........................................C1
oSofitel Bali Nusa

ú Eating Dua Beach Resort reSorT $$$
9 Nusa Dua Beach Grill..............................B4 (%0361-849 2888; www.sofitelbalinusadua.com;
10 Warung Dobiel......................................... B2 Jl Nusa Dua; r from US$200; aiWs) Mak-
11 Warungs................................................... B3 ing up a part of the resort strip, the Sofitel
has a vast pool that meanders past the 415

þ Shopping rooms, some of which have terraces with di-
12 Bali Collection ......................................... C2
rect pool access. The room blocks are huge;

117
many rooms have at least a glimpse of the amid the bland streets of Nusa, this is a good
water. The Sofitel’s lavish Sunday brunch stop for babi guling (spit-roast pig). Pork
(11am to 3pm) is one of Bali’s best; it costs soup is the perfect taste-bud awakener, while
from 400,000Rp. the jackfruit is redolent with spices. Diners
Grand Hyatt Bali reSorT $$$ perch on stools and share tables; service can
(%0361-771234; www.bali.grand.hyatt.com; r from be slow and tours may mob the place. Watch
US$200; aiWs) A little city, of sorts, the out for ‘foreigner’ pricing.
636-room Hyatt has areas that are better Nusa Dua Beach Grill iNTerNATioNAL $$
than others. Some rooms in the West Village (%0851 0043 4779; Jl Pura gegar; mains from
face the taxi parking lot (of the four Villag- 80,000rp; h8am-10.30pm) A good spot for day
es, East and South are the best located). The trippers, this warm-hued cafe (hidden by the
riverlike pool (one of six) is huge and has a Mulia resort) is just south of Gegar Beach.
fun slide. The children’s club will keep ’em The drinks menu is long, the seafood fresh
busy for days. and the relaxed beachy vibe intoxicating.
St Regis Bali Resort reSorT $$$ Hardy’s SUPermArkeT
(%0361-847 8111; www.stregisbali.com; kawasan (%0361-774639; Jl Ngurah rai; h8am-9pm) This
Pariwisata; ste from US$650; aiWs) This huge outlet of the local chain of supermar-
lavish Nusa Dua resort leaves most of the kets is about 1km west of the main gate.
others in the sand. Every conceivable luxury Besides groceries it has most other goods
is provided, from electronics to furnishings, you might need and at real (ie not inflated South Bali & the iSlandS NUSA D
the marble and the personal butler. Pools resort) prices.
abound and the 123 units are huge. Go for South Bali & the iSlandS BUkiT PeNiNSUL A
the pool suite with ocean views if you want 3 Entertainment
to relax in style. Many of the hotels offer attenuated Balinese
Westin Resort reSorT $$$ dances on one or more nights, usually as
(%0361-771906; www.westin.com/bali; r from part of a buffet deal. Hotel lounges also of-
US$200; aiWs) Attached to a large ten have live music, from crooners to mel-
convention centre, the Westin has an air- low rock bands.
South Bali & the iSlandS e ATiNg UA
conditioned lobby (a rarity) and vast public
spaces. Guests in the 433 rooms enjoy the 8 Information

best pools in Nusa, with waterfalls and oth- ATms can be found at the Bali Collection
er features forming an aquatic playground. (%0361-771662; www.bali-collection.com; off Jl
The Kids Club has extensive activities and Nusa Dua; h8am-10pm) shopping centre, some
facilities. It has a mall and is connected to hotel lobbies and at the huge hardy’s Depart-
the Bali International Convention Centre ment Store out on the Jl Ngurah rai Bypass.
(%0361-771906; www.baliconvention.com).
8 Getting There & Away
5 Eating The Bali mandara Toll rd (motorbike/car
There are dozens of restaurants charging re- 4000/11,000rp) greatly speeds journeys be-
sort prices in the huge hotels. For nonguests, tween Nusa Dua and the airport and Sanur.
venture in if you want a bounteous Sunday BUS
brunch, such as the Sofitel’s.
Good warungs cluster at the corner of Jl The kura-kura tourist bus (p389) has two routes
linking Nusa Dua with its kuta hub. Buses run
Srikandi and Jl Pantai Mengiat. Also along every two hours and cost 50,000rp.
the latter street, just outside the central gate, Bali’s Trans-Sarbagita Bus System serves Nusa
open-air eateries offer an unpretentious Dua on a route that follows the Jl Ngurah rai
dining alternative. None will win culinary Bypass up and around past Sanur to Batabulan.
awards, but most provide transport.
Warungs iNDoNeSiAN $ SHUTTLE
Find out what shuttle-bus services your hotel pro-
(off Jl Terompong; meals from 20,000rp; h8am- vides before you start hailing taxis. A free shuttle
10pm) Your best bet for fresh and delicious bus (%0361-771662; www.bali-collection.com/
local fare in the Nusa Dua area. shuttle-bus; h9am-10pm) connects all Nusa Dua
Warung Dobiel BALiNeSe $ and Tanjung Benoa resort hotels with the Bali Col-
(%0361-771633; Jl Srikandi 9; meals from 40,000rp; lection shopping centre about every hour. Better
still, walk the delightful beach promenade.
h10am-3pm) A bit of authentic food action

118
TAXI 1 Sights
The taxi from the airport cartel is 150,000rp; The village of Benoa is a fascinating little
a metered taxi to the airport will be much less. fishing settlement that makes for a good
Taxis to/from Seminyak average 150,000rp for stroll. Amble the narrow lanes of the pen-
the 45-minute trip, although traffic can double
this time. insula’s tip for a multicultural feast. Within
100m of each other are a brightly coloured
Chinese Buddhist temple (Jl Segara Lor) , a
Tanjung Benoa domed mosque (Jl Segara Lor) and a Hindu
The peninsula of Tanjung Benoa extends temple (Jl Segara Lor) with a nicely carved tri-
ple entrance. Enjoy views of the busy chan-
about 4km north from Nusa Dua to Benoa nel to the port. On the dark side, Benoa’s
village. It’s flat and lined with family- backstreets hide Bali’s illegal trade in turtles,
friendly resort hotels, most of midrange although police raids are helping to limit it.
calibre. By day the waters buzz with the roar
of dozens of motorised water-sports craft. 2 Activities
Group tours arrive by the busload for a day’s
aquatic excitement, straddling a banana oJari Menari SPA
boat among other thrills. (%0361-778084; www.jarimenarinusadua.com; Jl
Overall, Tanjung Benoa is a fairly sedate Pratama; massage from 385,000rp; h9am-9pm)
place, although the Bali Mandara Toll Rd This branch of the famed Seminyak original
speeds access to the nightlife diversions of offers all the same exquisite massages by the
Kuta and Seminyak. expert all-male staff. Call for transport.
oBumbu Bali Cooking School CookiNg
(%0361-774502; www.balifoods.com; Jl Prata-
Tanjung Benoa # e 0 0 0.25 miles ma; course without/with market visit US$105/118;
500 m
A B h6am-3pm mon, Wed & Fri) This much-lauded
2 3 cooking school at the eponymous restaurant
ß
#
44 strives to get to the roots of Balinese cook-
# Þ
South Bali & the iSlandS SighTS
#
Ú
ing. Courses start with a 6am visit to Jim-
1
1 8 ÿ 1
#
# #Ø 4
ÿ
9
: : 44
# ú 15
South Bali & the iSlandS TANJUNg BeNoA
: : : : Kimia Tanjung Benoa
South Bali & the iSlandS BUkiT PeNiNSUL A
: 44 Selat æ Sights
Farma
:
:

1 Caow Eng Bio ........................................ A1
î
#
:
:

16
2 Mosque................................................... A1
# 6
ÿ
# û
Badung
:
3 Pura Dalem Ning Lan Taman Beji....... B1
# ú
12
2 44 2 Ø Activities, Courses & Tours
Teluk ÿ 4 Benoa Marine Recreation.................... B1
#
: : : Benoa : : : 10 : :
: : : : : Jl : 13 Beach Bumbu Bali Cooking School...... (see 13)
: Promenade
: : : : : :44 5 Jari Menari.............................................B3
: # ú
:
: : : : : :
44
: : : : : : : : ÿ Sleeping

: Pratama
Ø
#
: 5
: : : : : 4444 6 Bali Khama.............................................B2
:
: : : : : : : : 7 Conrad Bali............................................B3
ÿ
: 3 : Tanjung : : : : # 3 8 Pondok Benoa....................................... A1
:
: : : Benoa : : : : : 7 9 Pondok Hasan Inn................................. B1
: : : : : : : Sri Lanka 10 Rumah Bali.............................................B2

:
:
: : : Immigrasi : : 4444 11 Sofitel Bali Nusa Dua Beach
:
:
Beach
Ù
: : (1.7km) : : : : : # Resort..................................................B4
:
: : : : : : :4444
:
:
:

: : D : : : : # North ú Eating
:
:
: : Jl : : : Pratama Raya : 12 Bali Cardamon ......................................B2
13 Bumbu Bali ............................................B2
:
: : : : Jl 4444
:
#
ÿ
:
: : : # ú : : : : : Jl Pratama Gate 11 4 14 Hardy's...................................................A4
4
: 14
:
:
: : : Ngurah Rai Bypass : 15 Tao..........................................................B1
:
: : : : : : : NUSA
DUA
: : : : : : : û Drinking & Nightlife

:
:
:
:
: : : : 4444 16 Atlichnaya Bar.......................................B2
A B
4444

119
WATER SPORTS
Water-sports centres along Jl Pratama offer daytime diving, cruises, windsurfing and
waterskiing. Each morning convoys of buses arrive with day trippers from all over south
Bali, and by 10am parasailers float over the water.
All feature unctuous salespeople whose job it is to sell you the banana-boat ride of
your dreams while you sit glassy-eyed in a thatched-roof sales centre and cafe. Check
equipment and credentials before you sign up, as a few tourists have died in accidents.
Among the established water-sports operators is Benoa Marine Recreation (Bmr;
%0361-772438; www.bmrbali.com; Jl Pratama; h8am-4pm). As if by magic, all operators
have similar prices. Note that ‘official’ price lists are just the starting point for bargaining.
Activities here include the following (with average prices):
Banana-boat rides Wild rides for two as you try to maintain your grasp on the inflata-
ble fruit moving over the waves (US$20 per 15 minutes).
Glass-bottomed boat trips The non-wet way to see the denizens of the shallows
(US$50 per hour).
Jet-skiing Go fast and belch smoke (US$25 per 15 minutes).
Parasailing Iconic; you float above the water while being towed by a speedboat (US$20
per 15-minute trip).
Snorkelling Trips include equipment and a boat ride to a reef (US$35 per hour). South Bali & the iSlandS TANJUNg
One nice way to use the beach here is at Tao restaurant, where for the price of a drink, South Bali & the iSlandS SLeePiNg BeNoA
you can enjoy resort-quality loungers and a pool.

baran’s fish and morning markets, continue aiWs) Rumah Bali is a luxurious inter-
in the large kitchen and finish with lunch. pretation of a Balinese village by cookbook
author Heinz von Holzen, who also runs
4 Sleeping local restaurant Bumbu Bali. Guests choose
Tanjung Benoa’s east shore is lined with from large family rooms or individual villas
midrange low-key resorts aimed at groups. (some have three bedrooms) with their own
They are family-friendly, offer kids’ pro- plunge pools and kitchens. There’s a large
South Bali & the iSlandS BUkiT PeNiNSUL A
grams and enjoy repeat business by holiday- communal pool and a tennis court. The
makers who are greeted with banners such beach is a short walk away.
as ‘Welcome Back Underhills!’ There are also
a couple of simple guesthouses. Conrad Bali reSorT $$$
(%0361-778788; www.conradbali.com; Jl Pratama
Pondok Hasan Inn gUeSThoUSe $ 168; r incl breakfast US$200; aiWs) The
(%0361-772456; [email protected]; Jl top-end choice of Tanjung Benoa, the huge
Pratama; r incl breakfast from 250,000rp; aW) Conrad combines a modern Bali look with
Back 20m off the main road, this friendly a refreshing, casual style. The 353 rooms
family-run homestay has 11 immaculate are large and thoughtfully designed. Some
hot-water rooms that include breakfast. The units have patios with steps right down into
tiles on the outdoor verandah gleam; it’s the 33m pool, easing the morning dip. Bun-
shared by the rooms, and there is a small galows have their own private lagoon and
garden. there is a large kids’ club.
Pondok Benoa gUeSThoUSe $ Bali Khama reSorT $$$
(%0812 384 9640; www.pondok-benoa.com; Jl (%0361-774912; www.thebalikhama.com; Jl Prata-
Pratama 99; r incl breakfast 350,000-550,000rp; ma; villas US$110-250; aiWs) Bali Khama
aW) The nine airy rooms (most with tubs) in is set on its own crescent of sand at the
a large, houselike building are spotless. High- northern end of the beach promenade. The
er-priced rooms come with small kitchens. 60 mostly individual walled villas are large,
The gardens are large, shady and attractive. tasteful and – obviously – private. More ex-
pensive ones have plunge pools; there are
Rumah Bali gUeSThoUSe $$
(%0361-771256; www.balifoods.com; off Jl Prata- also honeymoon and multiroom villas.
ma; r incl breakfast from US$90, villa from US$250;

120
5 Eating & Drinking SANUR
oBumbu Bali BALiNeSe $$ %0361
(%0361-774502; www.balifoods.com; Jl Pratama; Many consider Sanur ‘just right’, as it lacks
mains from 100,000rp, set menus from 295,000rp; most of the hassles found to the west while
hnoon-9pm) Long-time resident and cook- maintaining a good mix of restaurants and
book author Heinz von Holzen, his wife Puji, bars that aren’t all owned by resorts.
and their well-trained and enthusiastic staff The beach, while thin, is protected by a
serve exquisitely flavoured dishes at this reef and breakwaters, so families appreciate
superb restaurant. Many diners opt for one the limpid waves. Sanur has a good range
of several lavish set menus. Cooking classes of places to stay and it’s well placed for day
(p118) on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays trips. Really, it doesn’t deserve its local mon-
(from US$103) are highly recommended. iker, ‘Snore’.
Sanur stretches for about 5km along an
Bali Cardamon ASiAN $$ east-facing coastline, with the lush and green
(%0361-773745; www.balicardamon.com; Jl Prata- landscaped grounds of resorts fronting right
ma 97; mains 55,000-120,000rp; h8am-10pm) on to the sandy beach. West of the beach-
A cut above most of the other restaurants front hotels is the busy main drag, Jl Danau
on the Jl Pratama strip, this ambitious spot Tamblingan, with hotel entrances and oodles
has a creative kitchen that takes influences of tourist shops, restaurants and cafes.
from across Asia. It has some excellent dish- Noxious, traffic-choked Jl Ngurah Rai
es including pork belly seasoned with star Bypass skirts the western side of the resort
anise. Sit under the frangipani trees or in the area, and is the main link to Kuta and the
dining room. airport. Don’t stay out here.
Tao ASiAN $$
(%0361-772902; www.taobali.com; Jl Pratama 96; 1 Sights
mains 60,000-100,000rp; h8am-10pm; W) On oMuseum Le Mayeur mUSeUm
its own swathe of pure-white sand, Tao has (%0361-286201; Jl hang Tuah; adult/child 20,000/
South Bali & the iSlandS SANUr
South Bali & the iSlandS SANUr
a large curling pool that wends between the 10,000rp; h8am-3.30pm Sat-Thu, 8.30am-
tables. The food is an eclectic mix of Asian 12.30pm Fri) Artist Adrien-Jean Le Mayeur de
(but a club sandwich awaits philistines). Merpres (1880–1958) arrived in Bali in 1932,
Atlichnaya Bar BAr and married the beautiful Legong dancer
(%0813 3818 9675; www.atlichnaya.com; Jl Prata- Ni Polok three years later, when she was
ma 88; h8am-late; W) The lively and convivial just 15. They lived in this compound back
South Bali & the iSlandS e ATiNg & DriNkiNg
alternative to the stiff hotel bars, this rollick- when Sanur was still a quiet fishing village.
ing place serves a long list of cheap mixed After the artist’s death, Ni Polok lived in the
drinks and even offers massages (from house until she died in 1985. Despite securi-
50,000Rp). There are cheap and cheery Indo ty (some of Le Mayeur’s paintings have sold
and Western menu items as well. for US$150,000) and conservation prob-
lems, almost 90 of Le Mayeur’s paintings are
8 Information displayed.
The house is an interesting example of
Kimia Farma (%0361-916 6509; Jl Pratama Balinese-style architecture – notice the
87; h8am-10pm) reliable chain of pharmacies.
beautifully carved window shutters that re-
8 Getting There & Away count the story of Rama and Sita from the
Ramayana. The museum has a naturalistic
Taxis from the airport cartel cost 175,000rp. Balinese interior of woven fibres. Some of
Bemos (mini-buses) shuttle up and down Jl Le Mayeur’s early works are impressionist
Pratama (5000rp) – although after about 3pm paintings from his travels in Africa, India,
they become scarce. the Mediterranean and the South Pacific.
A free shuttle bus (%0361-771662; www. Paintings from his early period in Bali are ro-
bali-collection.com/shuttle-bus; h9am-10pm) mantic depictions of daily life and beautiful
connects Nusa Dua and Tanjung Benoa resort Balinese women – often Ni Polok. The works
hotels with the Bali Collection shopping centre from the 1950s are in much better condition,
about every hour. or stroll the Beach Promenade
and enjoy the view in lieu of the bus. many res- displaying the vibrant colours that later be-
taurants will provide transport from Nusa Dua came popular with young Balinese artists.
and Tanjung Benoa hotels. Look for the haunting black-and- white pho-
tos of Ni Polok.

121
Sanur Beach BeACh 2 Activities
Sanur Beach curves in a southwesterly di- Water Sports
rection and stretches for more than 5km.
It is mostly clean and overall quite serene – Sanur’s calm water and steady breeze make
much like the town itself. Offshore reefs it a natural centre for wind- and kitesurfing.
mean that the surf is reduced to tiny waves Sanur’s fickle breaks (tide conditions of-
lapping the shore. With a couple of unfortu- ten don’t produce waves) are offshore along
nate exceptions, the resorts along the sand the reef. The best area is called Sanur Reef,
are low-key, leaving the beach uncrowded. a right break in front of the Grand Bali
Beach Hotel. Another good spot is known as
Bali Orchid Garden gArDeNS the Hyatt Reef, in front of, you guessed it,
(%0361-701988; www.baliorchidgardens.com; the old Bali Hyatt.
Coast rd; 100,000rp; h8am-6pm) Orchids You can get a boat out to the breaks from
thrive in Bali’s warm weather and rich vol- Surya Water Sports (%0361-287956; www.
canic soil. At this garden you can see thou- balisuryadivecenter.com; Jl Duyung 10; h9am-
sands of orchids in a variety of settings. It’s 5pm; c) or a fishing boat (from 200,000Rp
3km north of Sanur along Jl Ngurah Rai to 400,000Rp).
just past the major intersection with the oRip Curl School of Surf kiTeSUrFiNg
coast road, and is an easy stop on the way (%0361-287749; www.ripcurlschoolofsurf.com;
to Ubud. Beachfront Walk, Sanur Beach hotel; kitesurf- South Bali & the iSlandS ACTiVi
ing lessons from 1,100,000rp, rental per hr from South Bali & the iSlandS SANUrTieS
Stone Pillar moNUmeNT 550,000rp; h8am-5pm) Sanur’s reef-protect-
(off Jl Danau Poso) The pillar, down a narrow ed waters and regular offshore breezes make
lane to the left as you face Pura Belangjong, for good kitesurfing. The season runs from
is Bali’s oldest dated artefact and has an- June to October. Rip Curl also rents boards
cient inscriptions recounting military victo- for windsurfing and stand-up paddle board-
ries from more than a thousand years ago. ing (including SUP yoga for 450,000Rp per
These inscriptions are in Sanskrit and are hour) as well as kayaks.
South Bali & the iSlandS SANUr
evidence of Hindu influence 300 years be-
fore the arrival of the Majapahit court. Bali Stand Up Paddle WATer SPorTS
(%0813 3823 5082; www.bali-standuppaddle.org;
Jl Cemara 4B; rental per day 350,000rp, lessons

SANUR’S BEACHFRONT WALK

Sanur’s beachfront walk has been delighting locals and visitors alike from day one. Over
4km long, it curves past resorts, beachfront cafes, wooden fishing boats under repair
and quite a few elegant old villas built decades ago by the wealthy expats who fell under
Bali’s spell. While you stroll, look out across the water to Nusa Penida.
Even if you’re not staying in Sanur, the beach walk makes a good day trip or stop on
the way to someplace else. A few highlights north to south:
Grand Bali Beach Hotel (Jl hang Tuah) Built in the Sukarno era, this vast hotel is now
slowly fading away. Local leaders, properly horrified at its outsized bulk, imposed the
famous rule that no building could be higher than a coconut palm.
Turtle Tanks An engaging display about Bali’s endangered sea turtles that usually in-
cludes some young hatchlings.
Small Temple Amid the tourist bustle, this little shrine is shaded by huge trees.
Batu Jimbar (www.villabatujimbar.com; Beachfront Walk) Just north of the old Hyatt, this
villa compound has a colourful history: it was redesigned by the famous Sri Lankan ar-
chitect Geoffrey Bawa in 1975, Mick Jagger and Jerry Hall were unofficially married here
in 1990, and it has accommodated celebrities from Yoko Ono to Sting to Fergie. If your
income approaches theirs, you too can stay here.
Fishing Boats Just south of the old Hyatt is a long area where multihued fishing boats
are pulled ashore and repaired under the trees.

6
122
per 90min 350,000rp) This specialist store of- Sanur # e 0 500 m
fers great advice, gear sales and rental, and A 0 B 0.25 miles
4444444
lessons. It also offers windsurfing and kite- Bali Orchid Pantai Padang Galak 600m
boarding. 1 Matahari D Garden (1.9km); D Rocky Fast 1
Warung Satria (2.9km);
66
pheric bamboo pavilion looking out to Sa- 666
Ubud (33km)
4444444
Yoga & Spas
Cruises
38
Public Boats
13
oPower of Now Oasis
Terbit
# # f
#
yogA
f ú
Scoot
# ÿ #
›
(%0813 3831 5032; www.powerofnowoasis.com;
f
#
4444444
Jl Hang Tuah
Fast Boat
Beachfront Walk, hotel mercure; classes from
Departures
Perama
# ÿ 21
100,000rp) Enjoy a yoga class in this atmos-
for Nusa
#
Warung
f
Museum Le
# # â â
Lembongan
6 Bundaran
D
Jl Danau Tamblingan 140; 1hr massage 350,000rp; 666 2
Mayeur 1
4444444
& the Gili
Renon (1.5km);
nur Beach. Several levels are offered. Sunrise
Islands
US Consulate (1.5km);
4
# â
yoga is a popular choice.
Denpasar (7km)
2
4444444
oJamu Wellness
SPA
(%0811 389 9930; www.jamutraditionalspa.com;
ing a popular Earth and Flower Body Mask 4444444
h9am-9pm) This gracious spa has classy new
Locked
# Gate
digs and offers a range of treatments includ-
Jl Danau
Jl Segara Ayu
ú
#
Buyan
#
ú
33
37
and a Kemiri Nut Scrub. 666
#
ú
26
#
û
41
Glo Day Spa & Salon 4444444
Jl Danau Tondano
Jl Pantai Sindhu
SPA
# 25
3
3
ú
(%0361-282826; www.glo-day-spa.com; Jl Danau 34
#
ú
4444444
Poso 57, gopa Town Centre; massage 1hr from 24 # ÿ # î Kimia
195,000rp; h8am-6pm) An insider pick by the Farma # z 7 Sanur Beach
43
# ÿ 19
many local Sanur expats, Glo eschews a fan- 66
4444444
cy setting for a clean-lined storefront. Servic-
es and treatments run the gamut, from skin # ÿ 23
45
South Bali & the iSlandS SANUr
South Bali & the iSlandS CoUrS
and nail care to massages and spa therapies. 17 # ÿ# þ #Gilicat
f
South Bali & the iSlandS SANUreS
ú
4
4
#
35
C Courses 4444444
ú
36
#
# æ 6
Balinese Cooking Class CookiNg 11 # Ø # þ 44
# þ Jl Danau Tamblingan
Beachfront Walk; 90min class from US$60; hWed 4444444
# þ 42
(%0361-288009; www.santrian.com; Puri Santrian,
#27
ú
Jl Ngurah Rai Bypass
& Fri) With a kitchen that’s set on the beach-
cook Balinese food. For a bit extra you can 4444444
front, this is a memorable spot to learn to
ú
#
30
Beachfront
visit the market to source ingredients. 5 20 9 # ÿ 5
Walk
#
Crystal Divers 4444444
DiViNg
(%0361-286737; www.crystal-divers.com; Jl Danau # ÿ 15
4444444
Tamblingan 168; dives from US$65) This slick div-
ing operation has its own hotel (the Santai) Jl Tirtanadi 2 # â
and a large diving pool. Recommended for # 39
ú
4444444
beginners, the shop offers a long list of cours- Jl DanauTambling an
es, including PADI open-water (US$500). 6 # ÿ 16 6
Ù
Ø
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4 Sleeping Kuta 31 12 ## 5
#
ú
(15km)
ú
#
29
10 32
ú
#
# þ
ú
# Ø
46
4 Beachfront Jl Danau Poso û # 28 14 # ÿ # æ 3

4444444
D
40
Amid the larger resorts you’ll find some Sari Bundo (50m);
smaller beachfront hotels that are surpris- Stone Pillar (200m) # ÿ 18
D
# Jl Kesumasari
Jl Cema ra
ingly affordable. gUeSThoUSe $ 4444444
Selat
22
Badung
7
7
#
Kesumasari Gardenia U
(150m); Sunday Market (400m)
D
(%0361-287824;
villa_kesumasari@yahoo.
400,000/450,000rp; aWs) The only thing 4444444
Rip Curl School of Surf (300m);
# Ø
8
com; Jl kesumasari 6; r with fan/air-con from
Power of Now Oasis (350m)
A
B
D
4444444

123
Sanur

æ Top Sights ú Eating
1 Museum Le Mayeur................................ B2 25 Beach Café...............................................B3
26 Byrdhouse Beach Club...........................B3

æ Sights 27 Café Smorgås..........................................B4
2 Batu Jimbar............................................. B6 28 Char Ming.................................................A6
3 Fishing Boats........................................... B6 29 Denata Minang.........................................A6
4 Grand Bali Beach Hotel.......................... B2 30 Hardy's Supermarket .............................B5
5 Sanur Beach............................................ B6 31 La Playa Cafe ...........................................B6
6 Small Temple .......................................... B4 32 Massimo ...................................................A6
7 Turtle Tanks ............................................ B3 Minami ............................................(see 26)
33 Nasi Bali Men Weti ..................................B3

Ø Activities, Courses & Tours 34 Pasar Sindhu Night Market....................A3
8 Bali Stand Up Paddle...............................A7 35 Porch.........................................................B4
Balinese Cooking Class.................(see 22) Pregina Warung.............................(see 45)
9 Crystal Divers.......................................... B5 Spice ...............................................(see 20)
10 Glo Day Spa & Salon............................... A6 36 Three Monkeys Cafe...............................B4
11 Jamu Wellness ........................................ B4 37 Warung Babi Guling Sanur.....................A3
12 Surya Water Sports................................B6 38 Warung Mak Beng................................... B1
39 Warung Pantai Indah ..............................B6

ÿ Sleeping South Bali & the iSlandS SANU
13 Agung & Sue Watering Hole I.................A1 û Drinking & Nightlife South Bali & the iSlandS SANUr iNg
14 Fairmont Sanur Beach Bali ................... B7 40 Fire Station...............................................A7
15 Hotel Peneeda View................................ B5 41 Kalimantan...............................................A3
16 Hyatt Regency Bali................................. B6
17 Keke Homestay....................................... B4 þ Shopping
18 Kesumasari.............................................. B7 42 A-Krea.......................................................B4
19 La Taverna Suites................................... B3 43 Ganesha Bookshop.................................B3
20 Maison Aurelia Sanur............................. B5 44 Goddess on the Go..................................B4
21 Pollok & Le Mayeur Inn ...........................B1 45 Nogo..........................................................B4
South Bali & the iSlandS SLeeP r
22 Puri Santrian.............................................A7 46 To~ko........................................................A6
23 Tandjung Sari.......................................... B4
24 Yulia 1 Homestay .................................... A3
between you and the beach is a small shrine. Hotel Peneeda View hoTeL $$
Beyond the lounging porches, the multihued (%0361-288425; www.peneedaview.com; Jl Danau
carved Balinese doors don’t prepare you for Tamblingan 89; r from US$45; ais) Another
the riot of colour inside the 15 idio syncratic basic, small beachfront hotel, the Peneeda
rooms at this family-run homestay. (which is not phonetically accurate for Peni-
da) is a good choice for sun, sand and room
Pollok & Le Mayeur Inn homeSTAy $ service at a very affordable price. The 56
(%0361-289847; [email protected]; Jl hang rooms are somewhat dated but you simply
Tuah, museum Le mayeur; r with fan/air-con from can’t beat the (narrow) beach frontage and
250,000/350,000rp; aW) The grandchildren the price. There’s free wi-fi in common areas.
of the late artist Le Mayeur de Merpres and
his wife Ni Polok run this small homestay. It’s oTandjung Sari hoTeL $$$
within the Le Mayeur museum compound (%0361-288441; www.tandjungsarihotel.com; Jl
(p120), and offers a good budget option on Danau Tamblingan 41; bungalows incl breakfast from
the beachfront. The 15 rooms vary in size. US$215; aiWs) One of Bali’s first bou-
La Taverna Suites hoTeL $$ tique hotels, Tandjung Sari has flourished
(%0361-288497; http://latavernasuites.com; Jl since it opened in 1967 and continues to be
Danau Tamblingan 29; r US$90-160; aiWs) lauded for its style. The 28 traditional-style
One of Sanur’s first hotels, La Taverna has bungalows are beautifully decorated with
been reconstructed as an all-suites proper- crafts and antiques. The gracious staff is a
ty while retaining its artful, simple charm. delight. Local children practise Balinese
The pretty grounds and paths that link the dance by the pool at 3pm Friday and Sunday.
buildings hum with a creative energy, infus- Fairmont Sanur Beach Bali reSorT $$$
ing the 38 vintage bungalow-style units with (%0361-3011888; www.fairmont.com; Jl kesu-
an air of understated luxury. masari 8; r from US$215; aiWs) Looming

124
KITE-FLYING OVER SANUR
Travelling through south Bali you can’t help but notice scores of kites overhead much of
the year. These creations are often huge (10m or more wide, with tails stretching up to an
astonishing 160m) and fly at altitudes that worry pilots. Many have noisemakers called
gaganguan producing eerie humming and buzzing noises that are unique to each kite.
Like much in Bali there are spiritual roots: the kites are meant to whisper figuratively into
the ears of the gods suggestions that abundant harvests might be nice. But for many
Balinese, these high-fliers are simply a really fun hobby (although it has its serious side
as if one of these monsters crashes to earth it can kill and injure).
Each July, hundreds of Balinese and international teams descend – as it were – on
open spaces north of Sanur for the Bali Kite Festival. They compete for an array of
honours in categories such as original design and flight endurance. The action is centred
around flat land behind the sand at Pantai Padang Galak, about 1km up the coast
from Sanur. You can catch kite-flying Balinese-style here from May to September.


over Sanur’s beachfront, this massive hotel Agung & Sue Watering Hole I gUeSThoUSe $
has 120 elegant suites and villas on a sprawl- (%0361-288289; www.wateringholesanurbali.
ing site that includes a 50m infinity pool. com; Jl hang Tuah 35; r 275,000-400,000rp;
The design is strikingly modern, and high- aW) Ideally located for an early fast boat
tech pleasures abound. There are also lavish to Nusa Lembongan or the Gilis, this long-
spas and restaurants, and a state-of-the-art running guesthouse has a veteran conviv-
gym. Kids get their own pool and play area. iality. Rooms are standard, but the beer is
indeed cold and Sanur Beach is a five-
Hyatt Regency Bali reSorT $$$ minute walk. A good place if you have that
(www.bali.regency.hyatt.com; Jl Danau Tamblingan) early fast boat to catch.
The landmark Sanur beachfront resort, the
South Bali & the iSlandS SANU
South Bali & the iSlandS SLeeP r
former Bali Hyatt is getting a slightly grand- Yulia 1 Homestay gUeSThoUSe $
South Bali & the iSlandS SANUr iNg
er name and a much grander makeover for a (%0361-288089; [email protected]; Jl
late-2017 reopening. Danau Tamblingan 38; r incl breakfast with fan/air-
con from 180,000/300,000rp; aWs) Run by
Puri Santrian hUT, BUNgALoW $$$ a friendly family, this mellow guesthouse is
(%0361-288009; www.santrian.com; Jl Cemara set in a lovely bird-filled garden full of palms
35; r US$110-300; aWs) Lush gardens, three and flowers. Rooms vary in standards (some
large pools with fountains, a tennis court cold water, fan only), but all come with
and beach frontage, as well as 199 comfort- fridges. The plunge pool is a nice area for
able, well-equipped rooms, make this a pop- relaxing.
ular choice. Many rooms are in older-style
bungalows, others in two- and three-storey Maison Aurelia Sanur hoTeL $$
blocks. It offers a recommended Balinese (%0361-472 1111; http://preferencehotels.com/
cooking class (p122). maison-aurelia; Jl Danau Tamblingan 140; r US$75-
150; aWs) High-style on the far side from

4 Off the Beach the beach, this four-storey hotel is a dra-
matic addition to Sanur’s main drag. The
Hotels near Jl Danau Tamblingan are a 54 rooms are capacious, have balconies and
short walk from the beach, cafes and shop- boast a richly restful decor. Details are plush
ping. Lacking sand as a feature, many try a and comforts include fridges.
bit harder than their beachfront brethren
(as well as being more affordable). Gardenia gUeSThoUSe $$
(%0361-286301; www.gardeniaguesthouseba-
Keke Homestay gUeSThoUSe $ li.com; Jl mertasari 2; r 600,000-700,000rp;
(%0361-287282; www.keke-homestay.com; Jl Danau aWs) Like its many-petalled namesake,
Tamblingan 100; r with fan/air-con from 150,000/ the Gardenia has many facets. The seven
250,000rp; aW) Set 150m down a gang rooms are visions in white and sit well back
from the noisy road, Keke welcomes back- from the road. Nice verandas face a plunge
packers into its genial family (who are often pool in a pretty courtyard. Up front there is
busy making offerings). The five quiet, clean a good cafe.
rooms vary from fan-only to air-con cool.

125
5 Eating bar and table tennis on-site, you could hap-
Dine on the beach in a traditional open-air pily spend an entire day here by the beach.
pavilion or in a genial bar. Although there Check the club’s Facebook page for up-
are plenty of uninspired places on Jl Danau coming events, including outdoor-cinema
Tamblingan, there are also some gems. screenings and street-food stalls.
For groceries, try the large Hardy’s Su- Minami JAPANeSe $$
permarket (%0361-285806; Jl Danau Tamblin- (%0812 8613 4471; Beachfront Walk; mains from
gan 136; h8am-10pm). Nearby is the gourmet 60,000rp; h10am-11pm) With its minimalist
market of Cafe Batu Jimbar. The Mercure white decor, bright open-air atmosphere
Hotel hosts a Sunday organic market (www. and a vast range of uberfresh fish, this au-
facebook.com/sundaymarketsanur; Jl mertasari, thentic Japanese place is a great find on Sa-
mercure resort Sanur; h10am-5pm last Sun of nur Beach.
month). The Pasar Sindhu night market
(off Jl Danau Tamblingan; h6am-midnight) sells Warung Pantai Indah CAFe $$
fresh vegetables, dried fish, spices and good (Beachfront Walk; mains 30,000-110,000rp; h9am-
Balinese meals. 9pm) Sit at battered tables and chairs with
your toes in the sand at this timeless beach

5 Beachfront cafe. It specialises in fresh barbecue-grilled
seafood and cheap local dishes.
The beach path offers restaurants, cafes and South Bali & the iSlandS SANUr
bars where you can catch a meal, a drink or a Beach Café iNTerNATioNAL $$
sea breeze. Sunset drink specials are common (%0361-282875; Beachfront Walk; meals 50,000-
(though the beach faces east, so you’ll need 100,000rp; h8am-10pm; W) Brings a bit of
to enjoy the reflected glow off Nusa Penida). flashy Med style to the Sanur Beach cliché
of palm fronds and plastic chairs. Zone out
Nasi Bali Men Weti BALiNeSe $ on wicker sofas or hang on a low cushion on
(Jl Segara Ayu; meals from 20,000rp; h7am-1pm) the sand. Enjoy salads and seafood. There is
This simple stall prepares excellent nasi a good drinks list, just the reason to stop.
South Bali & the iSlandS SANUr
campur, the classic Balinese lunch plate of
South Bali & the iSlandS e ATiNg
mixed dishes. Everything is very fresh and 5 Jl Danau Tamblingan

prepared while you wait in the inevitable
queue. Enjoy your meal perched on a small Warung Mak Beng BALiNeSe $
plastic stool. (%0361-282633; Jl hang Tuah 45; meals
35,000rp; h8am-9pm) You don’t need a menu
Byrdhouse Beach Club iNTerNATioNAL $$ at this local favourite: all you can order is its
(%0361-288407; www.facebook.com/byrdhouse- legendary barbecued fish (ikan laut goreng),
beachclubbali; Segara Village, Sanur Beach; mains which comes with various sides and some
from 60,000rp; h6am-midnight; W) With tasty soup. Service is quick, the air fragrant
loungers, a swimming pool, a restaurant, and diners of all stripes very happy.
ROYALTY & EXPATS
Sanur was one of the places favoured by Westerners during their pre-WWII discovery of
Bali. Artists Miguel Covarrubias, Adrien-Jean Le Mayeur de Merpres and Walter Spies,
anthropologist Jane Belo and choreographer Katharane Mershon all spent time here.
The first tourist bungalows appeared in Sanur in the 1940s and ’50s, and more artists,
including Australian Donald Friend (whose antics earned him the nickname Lord Devil
Donald), made their homes in Sanur.
During this period Sanur was ruled by insightful priests and scholars, who recognised
both the opportunities and the threats presented by expanding tourism. They estab-
lished village cooperatives that owned land and ran tourist businesses, ensuring that a
good share of the economic benefits remained in the community.
The priestly influence remains strong, and Sanur is one of the few communities still
ruled by members of the Brahmana caste. It is known as a home of sorcerers and heal-
ers, and a centre for both black and white magic. The black-and-white chequered cloth
known as kain poleng, which symbolises the balance of good and evil, is emblematic
of Sanur.

126
Warung Babi Guling Sanur BALiNeSe $ Café Smorgås CAFe $$
(%0361-287308; Jl Ngurah rai Bypass; mains from (%0361-289361; www.cafesmorgas.com; Jl Danau
25,000rp; h10am-10pm) Unlike many of Bali’s Tamblingan; meals 58,000-100,000rp; h7am-
babi guling places, which buy their suckling 10pm; aWv) A popular place with nice
pigs precooked from large suppliers, this wicker chairs on a large terrace outside and
small outlet does all its cooking right out cool air-con inside. The menu has a healthy
back. The meat is succulent and shows the range of fresh detox juices and salads, plus
benefits of personal attention. comfort food such as burgers and sandwich-
es. Good breakfasts and desserts as well.
Porch CAFe $
(%0361-281682; www.flashbacks-chb.com; Jl Spice iNDoNeSiAN $$
Danau Tamblingan 111, Flashbacks; mains from (%0361-449 0411; http://spicebali.com; Jl Danau
40,000rp; h7am-10pm; aW) Housed in a Tamblingan 140, maison Aurelia Sanur; mains from
traditional wooden building, this cafe offers 80,000rp; hnoon-11pm) The second edition of
a tasty mix of comfort food like burgers and the buzzy new restaurant chain started by
freshly baked goods such as ciabatta. Snug- Ubud chef Chris Salans has a commanding
gle up to a table on the porch or shut it all position on the ground floor of the new Mai-
out in the air-con inside. Popular for break- son Aurelia Sanur hotel. The short menu of
fast; there’s a long list of fresh juices. High fresh and unusual Indonesian dishes is here
tea is popular too (149,000Rp for two). and prepared in an open kitchen. The drinks
A cute guesthouse, Flashbacks, is in the are creative and can be enjoyed on the ter-
rear. race outside.
oChar Ming ASiAN $$ La Playa Cafe SeAFooD $$
(%0361-288029; www.charming-bali.com; Jl (%0821 4794 4514; Jl Duyung, Sanur Beach; meals
Danau Tamblingan N97; meals 60,000-250,000rp; 60,000-160,000rp; h8am-10pm) You can hear
h5-11pm) Asian fusion with a French accent. the surf and see the moonlight reflected on
A daily menu board lists the fresh seafood the water at this welcoming beachside sea-
South Bali & the iSlandS SANUr
South Bali & the iSlandS SANUr
available for grilling. Look for regional food grill, set on the sand amid palm trees
South Bali & the iSlandS e ATiNg
dishes, many with modern flair. The highly and fishing boats. The grilled seafood platter
stylised location features lush plantings and is packed with garlic - yum!
carved-wood details from vintage Javanese Massimo iTALiAN $$
and Balinese structures. (%0361-288942; www.massimobali.com; Jl
Danau Tamblingan 206; meals 80,000-200,000rp;
oThree Monkeys Cafe ASiAN $$ h11am-11pm) The interior is like an open-
(%0361-286002; www.threemonkeyscafebali.com; air Milan cafe; the outside is like a Balinese
Jl Danau Tamblingan; meals 58,000-105,000rp; garden – it’s a combo that goes together like
h11am-11pm; W) This branch of the splendid spaghetti and meatballs. Pasta, pizza and
Ubud original is no mere knock-off. Spread more are prepared with authentic Italian
over two floors, there’s cool jazz playing in flair. No time for a meal? Nab some excellent
the background and live performances some gelato from the counter up front.
nights. Set well back from the road, you can
enjoy excellent coffee drinks on sofas or

chairs. The creative menu mixes Western 5 South Sanur
fare with pan-Asian creations. Sari Bundo iNDoNeSiAN $
(%0361-281389; Jl Danau Poso; mains from
Pregina Warung BALiNeSe $$ 25,000rp; h24hr) This spotless Padang-style
(%0361-283353; Jl Danau Tamblingan 106; shopfront is one of several at the south end
mains 40,000-80,000rp; h11am-11pm) Classic of Sanur. Choose from an array of fresh and
Balinese duck dishes and crowd-pleasers very spicy food. The curry chicken is a fiery
such as sate are mainstays of the interesting treat that will have your tongue alternatively
menu here. It serves local foods several cuts loving and hating you.
above the all-too-common bland tourist ver-
sions (try anything with duck). The dining Denata Minang iNDoNeSiAN $
room has spare, stylish wooden decor and (Jl Danau Poso; meals from 20,000rp; h8am-
features vintage photos of Bali. 10pm) One of the better Padang-style
warungs, it’s located just west of Cafe Bil-

127
liard, the rollicking expat bar. Like its breth- wooden loom out front of this classy store,
ren, it has tender ayam (chicken) in myriad which bills itself as the ‘Bali Ikat Centre’. The
spicy forms – only better. goods are gorgeous and easy to enjoy in the
air-con comfort.
6 Drinking & Nightlife

Fire Station PUB 8 Information
(%0361-285675; Jl Danau Poso 108; mains from MEDICAL SERVICES
80,000rp; h4pm-late) There’s some old Hol- Kimia Farma (%0361-271611; Jl Danau Tam-
lywood style here at this open-fronted pub. blingan 20; h8am-10pm) reliable local phar-
Vaguely 1960s Hollywood-esque portraits macy chain.
line walls; you expect to see a young Dennis
Hopper lurking in the rear. Enjoy pitchers of MONEY
sangria and other interesting drinks along moneychangers here have a dubious reputation.
with a varied menu of good pub food that There are numerous ATms along Jl Danau Tam-
features many specials. Order the fine Bel- blingan and several banks.
gian beer, Duvel.
8 Getting There & Away
Kalimantan BAr
(Borneo Bob’s; %0361-289291; Jl Pantai Sindhu BEMO
11; mains from 40,000rp; h7.30am-11pm) This green bemos go along Jl hang Tuah to the ke-
veteran boozer has an old South Pacific reneng bemo terminal in Denpasar (7000rp). South Bali & the iSlandS SANUr
thatched charm and is one of several casual BOAT
bars on this street. Enjoy cheap drinks un-
der the palms in the large, shady garden. The myriad fast boats to Nusa Lembongan, Nusa South Bali & the iSlandS SANUr Ng & NighTLiFe
The Mexican-style food features homegrown Penida, Lombok and the gilis depart from a strip
of beach south of Jl hang Tuah. None of these
chilli peppers. services use a dock – be prepared to wade to the
7 Shopping boat. most companies have shady waiting areas
facing the beach.
South Bali & the iSlandS DriNki
oGanesha Bookshop BookS Gilicat (%0361-271680; www.gilicat.com; Jl
(www.ganeshabooksbali.com; Jl Danau Tamblingan Danau Tamblingan 51) Ticket office for a fast
42; h8am-9pm) A branch of Bali’s best book- boat service to the gili islands from Padangbai.
shop for serious readers. Public boats regular boats to Nusa Lembon-
gan and Nusa Penida depart from the beach at
To~ko CLoThiNg the end of Jl hang Tuah.
(%0812 3624 0049; Jl Danau Poso 51A; h9am- Rocky Fast Cruises (%0361-283624; www.
7pm) This fascinating store in a small com- rockyfastcruise.com; Jl hang Tuah 41; h8am-
plex of shared workspaces showcases local 8pm) has an office for its services to Nusa
designers. Look for the ecologically designed Lembongan.
clothing of Maya Nursari. Her goods are Scoot (%0361-285522; www.scootcruise.com;
edgy and simple, black and white. Jl hang Tuah; h8am-8pm) has an office for
its network of services to Nusa Lembongan,
Goddess on the Go CLoThiNg Lombok and the gilis.
(%0361-270174; www.goddessonthego.net; Jl TOURIST SHUTTLE BUS
Danau Tamblingan; h9am-8pm) Supercomfort-
able clothes for women who, like the name The kura-kura tourist bus (p389) has a route
says, travel a lot. Many of the items are made linking Sanur with its kuta hub. Buses run every
two hours and cost 40,000rp.
with organic fibres.
The Perama office (%0361-285592; www.
A-Krea CLoThiNg peramatour.com; Jl hang Tuah 39; h7am-10pm)
(%0361-286101; Jl Danau Tamblingan 51; h9am- is at Warung Pojok at the northern end of town.
9pm) An excellent spot for souvenirs, A-Krea its destinations include Ubud (40,000rp, one
has a range of items designed and made in hour), Padangbai (60,000rp, two hours) and
Bali in its attractive store. Clothes, acces- Lovina (125,000rp, four hours).
sories, homewares and more are all hand
made. 8 Getting Around
Taxis from the airport cartel cost 125000rp.
Nogo TeXTiLeS Bemos go up and down Jl Danau Tamblingan
(%0361-288765; www.nogobali.com; Jl Danau and Jl Danau Poso for 5000Rp, offering a green-
Tamblingan 104; h9am-8pm) Look for the er way to shuttle about the strip than a taxi.

128
AROUND SANUR and business district of Renon and you’ll
discover a more genteel side.
Denpasar might not be a tropical para-
Pulau Serangan dise, but it’s as much a part of ‘the real Bali’
Otherwise known as Turtle Island, Pulau as the rice paddies and clifftop temples. This
is the hub of the island for more than one
Serangan is an example of all that can go million locals and here you will find their
wrong with Bali’s environment. Originally shopping malls and parks. Most enticing,
it was a small (100-hectare) island offshore however, are the authentic restaurants and
of the mangroves to the south of Sanur. cafes aimed at the burgeoning middle class.
However, in the 1990s it was selected by Su-
harto’s son Tommy as a site for new develop- History
ment. More than half of the original island
was obliterated while a new landfill area Denpasar, which means ‘next to the market’,
over 300 hectares in size was grafted on. The was an important trading centre and the
Asian economic crisis pulled the plug on the seat of local rajahs (lords or princes) before
scheme. Nothing has happened since. the colonial period. The Dutch gained con-
Meanwhile, on the original part of the trol of northern Bali in the mid-19th century,
island, the two small and poor fishing vil- but their takeover of the south didn’t start
lages, Ponjok and Dukuh, remain, as does until 1906. After the three Balinese princes
one of Bali’s holiest temples, Pura Sakenan, destroyed their own palaces in Denpasar
just east of the causeway. Architecturally it and made a suicidal last stand – a ritual
is insignificant, but major festivals attract puputan – the Dutch made Denpasar an
huge crowds of devotees, especially during important colonial centre. As Bali’s tourism
the Kuningan festival. industry expanded in the 1930s, most visi-
Some fast boats to the Gili Islands and tors stayed at one or two government hotels
Lombok leave from here. in the city.
The northern town of Singaraja remained
the Dutch administrative capital until after
South Bali & the iSlandS SighTS
Benoa Harbour WWII, when it was moved to Denpasar be-
cause of the new airport; in 1958, some years
Bali’s main port is at the entrance of Teluk after Indonesian independence, the city be-
South Bali & the iSlandS PUL AU SerANg
Benoa (Benoa Bay), the wide but shallow came the official capital of the province of
body of water east of the airport runway. Bali. Recent immigrants have come from
South Bali & the iSlandS AroUND SANUrAN
Benoa Harbour is on the northern side of Java and all over Indonesia, attracted by
the bay – a square of docks and port build- opportunities in schools, business, construc-
ings on reclaimed land. It is linked to main- tion and the enormous tourist economy.
land Bali by a 2km causeway which is now Denpasar’s edges have merged with Sanur,
also part of the Bali Mandara Toll Rd. It’s Kuta, Seminyak and Kerobokan.
referred to as Benoa port or Benoa Harbour
to distinguish it from Benoa village, on the 1 Sights
southern side of the bay. oMuseum Negeri
Benoa Harbour is the port for some tour- Propinsi Bali
ist day-trip boats to Nusa Lembongan and mUSeUm
for Pelni ships to other parts of Indonesia; (%0361-222680; adult/child 20,000/10,000rp;
however, its shallow depth prevents large h8am-4pm Sat-Thu, 8.30am-12.30pm Fri) Think
cruise ships from calling. of this as the British Museum or the Smithso-
nian of Balinese culture. It’s all here, but un-
like those world-class institutions, you have
to work at sorting it out – the museum could
DENPASAR use a dose of curatorial energy (and some
new light bulbs). Most displays are labelled
POP 1.1 MILLION / %0361
Sprawling, hectic and ever-growing, Bali’s in English. The museum comprises sever-
capital has been the focus of a lot of the is- al buildings and pavilions, including many
land’s growth and wealth over the last five examples of Balinese architecture, housing
decades. It can seem a daunting and chaotic prehistoric pieces, traditional artefacts, Bar-
place, but spend a little time on its tree-lined ong (mythical lion-dog creature), ceremonial
streets in the relatively affluent government objects and rich displays of textiles.

129
Museum staff members often play music Puputan Square PArk
on a bamboo gamelan to magical effect; visit (Jl gajah mada) This bit of urban open space
in the afternoons when it’s uncrowded. Ig- commemorates the heroic but suicidal stand
nore ‘guides’ who offer little except a chance of the rajahs of Badung against the invad-
to part with US$5 or US$10. ing Dutch in 1906. A monument depicts a
The main building has a collection of Balinese family in heroic pose, brandishing
prehistoric pieces downstairs, including the weapons that were so ineffective against
stone sarcophagi, and stone and bronze the Dutch guns. The woman also has jewels
implements. Upstairs there are examples of in her left hand, as the women of the Ba-
traditional artefacts, including items still in dung court reputedly flung their jewellery at
everyday use. Look for the intricate wood- the Dutch soldiers to taunt them.
and-cane carrying cases for transporting Pura Jagatnatha
fighting cocks, and tiny carrying cases for hiNDU TemPLe
fighting crickets. (Jl Surapati) F The state temple, built in
The Northern Pavilion is built in the 1953, is dedicated to the supreme god, San-
style of a Tabanan palace. It houses dance ghyang Widi. Part of its significance is its
costumes and masks, including a sinister statement of monotheism. Although the
rangda (widow-witch), a healthy-looking Balinese recognise many gods, the belief in
Barong and a towering Barong Landung one supreme god (who can have many man-
(tall Barong) figure. ifestations) brings Balinese Hinduism into
The spacious verandah of the Central conformity with the first principle of Pan- South Bali & the iSlandS DeNPASA
Pavilion is inspired by the palace pavilions casila – the ‘Belief in One God’.
of the Karangasem kingdom (based in Am- The padmasana (temple shrine) is made
lapura), where rajahs held audiences. The of white coral, and consists of an empty
exhibits are related to Balinese religion, and throne (symbolic of heaven) on top of the
include ceremonial objects, calendars and cosmic turtle and two naga (mythical snake-
priests’ clothing. like creatures), which symbolise the founda-
In the Southern Pavilion there are tion of the world. The walls are decorated
rich displays of textiles, including endek (a with carvings of scenes from the Ramayana
Balinese method of weaving with predyed and Mahabharata.
South Bali & the iSlandS ACTiViTie r
South Bali & the iSlandS DeNPASAr S
threads), double ikat, songket (silver- and Two major festivals are held here every
gold-threaded cloth, handwoven using a month, during the full moon and new moon,
floating weft technique) and prada (the ap- and feature wayang kulit (leather shadow
plication of gold leaf or gold or silver thread puppet) performances.
on traditional Balinese clothes). Taman Wedhi Budaya CULTUrAL CeNTre
(%0361-222776; off Jl Nusa indah; h8am-3pm
oBajra Sandhi Monument moNUmeNT
(monument to the Struggle of the People of Bali; mon-Thu, to 1pm Fri-Sun) This arts centre is a
%0361-264517; Jl raya Puputan, renon; adult/ sprawling complex in the eastern part of
child 20,000/10,000rp; h9am-6pm) The cen- Denpasar. Its lavish architecture houses
trepiece to a popular park, this huge monu- an art gallery with an interesting collec-
ment is as big as its name. Inside the vaguely tion. However, it’s only worth dropping by
Borobudur-like structure are dioramas trac- if there’s an event on. From mid-June to
ing Bali’s history. Note that in the portrayal mid-July, the centre comes alive for the Bali
of the 1906 battle with the Dutch, the King Arts Festival, with dances, music and craft
of Badung is literally a sitting target. Take displays from all over Bali. Book tickets at
the spiral stairs to the top for 360-degree the centre for more popular events.
views. 2 Activities
Pura Maospahit TemPLe Kube Dharma Bakti mASSAge
(off Jl Sutomo) Established in the 14th century, (%0361-749 9440; Jl Serma mendara 3; massage
at the time the Majapahit arrived from Java, per hr 80,000rp; h9am-10pm) Many Balinese
this temple was damaged in a 1917 earth- wouldn’t think of having a massage from any-
quake and has been heavily restored since. one but a blind person. Government-
The oldest structures are at the back of the sponsored schools offer lengthy courses to
temple, but the most interesting features are certify blind people in reflexology, shiatsu
the large statues of Garuda and the giant massage, anatomy and much more. In this
Batara Bayu.

130
Denpasar
A B C D E F
D Ubung Bus
& Bemo Terminal
(1.5km)
# ñ
1 Wangaya 1
Bemo
Jl Setiabudi # › Jl Pattimura
Terminal
Jl Sutomo Jl Kartini Jl Nakula # ú 17

Jl Werkudara # ÿ 9 Jl Kedondong
Jl Sahedawa Jl
2 Jl Veteran Jl Belimbing Jl Plawa 2
# æ 5 Jl Karna Jl Melati Kamboja
18 Jl Arjuna 8 Jl Durian 14
# ü
Gunung Agung Jl Gajah Mada # ÿ Kereneng # ú
Bemo Terminal Bemo # ›
D
22
(200m); # þ # # þ 20 66 Terminal
Jl Surapati
þ
Poltabes 23 # Þ 4
Denpasar Jl Thamrin Jl Sumatra # ÷ 3 Jl Surapati
(1km) Jl Hasanudin # þ Jl Udayana Museum Jl Sugianyar 3
# # â â 2
19
3
66 66
Jl Imam Bonjol
Negeri
Propinsi
Bali
Tegal Bemo
Jl Kapten Agung
# ›
Terminal
6666 Jl Jayagiri 4
South Bali & the iSlandS DeNPASA
South Bali & the iSlandS ACTiViTie r
4
South Bali & the iSlandS DeNPASAr S
Jl Nusakambangan
Jl Udayana
Jl Diponegoro
6
66 66 ##
ú
ú
Jl Ki Hajar Dewantara
5 24 Letda Tantular 5
6
State # # î # þ Jl Teuku Umar RENON
# þ
Railway Kimia 21
Company Farma 66
# ›
SANGLAH Damri 7 Australian # í
Consulate
Office
# ú
# Ø
15 6
Nasi Uduk RSUP Sanglah
Hospital
6 D
Kebon Kacang
(1.2km) # î # ú Gangga
# î 12
Paviliun Jl Nias
Amerta Wing Jl Diponegoro Jl Tukad
Jl Pulau Kanrata International
7 7
Jepun Bali (750m);
D Benoa Harbour (6km)
A B C D E F

131
Denpasar # e 0 0 0.25 miles airy building redolent with liniments you
500 m
A B C D E F can choose from a range of therapies.
C Courses
Indonesia Australia
1 1 Language Foundation LANgUAge
Jl Supratman (iALF; %0361-225243; www.ialf.edu; Jl raya Sese-
ABIAN tan 190) The best place for serious courses in
KAPAS Bahasa Indonesia.
S ungai Badung z Festivals & Events PerFormiNg ArTS
oBali Arts Festival
Jl Nusa Indah
2 2 (www.baliartsfestival.com; Taman Wedhi Budaya;
hmid-Jun–mid-Jul) This annual festival,
based at the Taman Wedhi Budaya arts cen-
tre, is an easy way to see a wide variety of
# æ 6 traditional dance, music and crafts. The pro-
ductions of the Ramayana and Mahabharata
ballets are grand, and the opening ceremony
Jl Hayam Wuruk and parade in Denpasar are spectacles. Tick- South Bali & the iSlandS DeNPASA
3 3 South Bali & the iSlandS CoUrSeSr
Denpasar
æ Top Sights
KEDATON 1 Bajra Sandhi Monument......................F6
2 Museum Negeri Propinsi Bali..............C3

æ Sights
13 # ú 3 Puputan Square....................................B3
4 4 4 Pura Jagatnatha....................................C3
South Bali & the iSlandS DeNPASAr
5 Pura Maospahit.....................................A2
6 Taman Wedhi Budaya..........................F2

Ø Activities, Courses & Tours
Jl Drupadi
Jl Badak Agung
16 11 10 7 Kube Dharma Bakti..............................B6
Jl Dewi Madri
##ú
úú # Jl Cok Agung Tresna ÿ Sleeping
Letda Tantular Jl Panjaitan Jl Dr Kusumah Atmaja Jl Kartawijaya ú Eating
9 Nakula Familiar Inn...............................B2
5 66 5 8 Inna Bali..................................................B2
66 12 Depot Cak Asmo.................................. D6
11 Bakso Supra Dinasty............................E5
Jl Tjut Nyak Dien 10 Ayam Goreng Kalasan..........................E5
Main
Bajra
Warung Bundaran
13 Men Gabrug...........................................E4
Post
# # á á
Sandhi
# í Office Monument 1 Renon (600m); 14 Pasar Malam Kereneng........................D2
US Consulate
# ò
(800m)
D
15 Pondok Kuring...................................... C6
6 Jl Raya Puputan Consulate # í 6 16 Warung Lembongan.............................E5
Japanese
17 Warung Wardani...................................B2
# ú Gangga 66 û Drinking & Nightlife
18 Bhineka Djaja.........................................B2
Jl Tukad þ Shopping
19 Kampung Arab......................................B3
20 Maju........................................................B3
7 7 21 Matahari.................................................B5
22 Pasar Badung........................................A3
23 Pasar Kumbasari ..................................A3
24 Robinson's.............................................B5
A B C D E F

132
ets are usually available before performanc- ment workers and students from the nearby
es; schedules are available online and at the university for superb dishes cooked to order
Denpasar tourist office. in the bustling kitchen. Order the buttery
The festival is the main event of the year and crispy cumi cumi (calamari) battered
for scores of village dance and musical in telor asin (a heavenly mixture of eggs
groups. Competition is fierce, with local and garlic). Fruity ice drinks are a cooling
pride on the line at each performance (‘our treat. An English-language menu makes
Kecak is better than your Kecak’, etc). To do ordering a breeze. It’s halal, so there’s no
well here sets a village on a good course for alcohol.
the year. Some events are held in a 6000-
seat amphitheatre, a venue that allows you oMen Gabrug BALiNeSe $
to realise the mass appeal of traditional (Jl Drupadi; snacks from 10,000rp; h8am-6pm) A
Balinese culture. favourite sweet treat for Balinese of all ages
is jaje laklak – disks of rice flour cooked in
4 Sleeping an open-air cast-iron pan, and redolent of
Denpasar has many new midpriced chain coconut. One of the best places to get them
is at this family-run outlet where the cook-
hotels, but it’s hard to think of a compelling ing takes place right on the street.
reason to stay here unless you want to revel
in the city’s bright lights. Most visitors stay Bakso Supra Dinasty BALiNeSe $
in the tourist towns of the south and visit (Jl Cok Agung Tresna; mains from 15,000rp;
Denpasar as a day trip. h8am-10pm) One taste of the soup assem-
bled to order out of the steaming vats at this
Nakula Familiar Inn gUeSThoUSe $ small stall and you’ll agree that the name
(%0361-226446; www.nakulafamiliarinn.com; Jl (translated: Meatball Super Dynasty) is fully
Nakula 4; r 150,000-250,000rp; aW) The eight deserved. The broth is rich and the meat-
rooms at this sprightly urban family com- balls are filled with flavour.
pound, a longtime traveller favourite, are
clean and have small balconies. There is a Warung Wardani iNDoNeSiAN $
nice courtyard and cafe in the middle. Te- (%0361-224398; Jl yudistira 2; nasi campur from
South Bali & the iSlandS DeNPASA
gal–Kereneng bemos go along Jl Nakula. 35,000rp; h8am-4pm) Don’t be deceived by
South Bali & the iSlandS SLeePiNg r
South Bali & the iSlandS DeNPASAr
the small dining room at the entrance: there’s
Inna Bali hoTeL $$ another vastly larger one out the back. The
(%0361-225681; www.innabali.com; Jl Veteran 3; r top-notch nasi campur (rice with side dish-
400,000-1,000,000rp; aWs) The Inna Bali es) draws in the masses for lunch daily.
has simple gardens, a huge banyan tree and
a certain nostalgic charm; it dates from 1927 Warung Bundaran Renon BALiNeSe $
and was once the main tourist hotel on the is- (%0361-234208; Jl raya Puputan 212; meals from
land. Room interiors are standard, but many 40,000rp; h9am-5pm) A slightly upscale babi
have deeply shaded verandahs. Ongoing ren- guling place with excellent plate lunches of
ovations have added an attractive colonial fa- same. It feels a bit like a suburban house and
cade, including a decent sidewalk cafe. there’s a shady patio.
5 Eating Pondok Kuring iNDoNeSiAN $
(%0361-234122; Jl raya Puputan 56; meals from
Denpasar has the island’s best range of In- 20,000rp; h10am-9.30pm) The foods of the
donesian and Balinese food. Savvy locals Sundanese people of west Java are the spe-
and expats each have their own favourite ciality here. Highly spiced vegetables, meat
warungs and restaurants. and seafood draw flavours from an array
New places open regularly on Jl Teuku of herbs. Deceptively simple, the lalapan
Umar, while in Renon there is a phenome- (fresh green salad) is excellent. This glossy
nal strip of eating places on Jl Cok Agung restaurant has an arty dining room and a
Tresna between Jl Ramayana and Jl Dewi lovely and quiet garden out back.
Madri and along Letda Tantular. See what
you can discover. Warung Lembongan iNDoNeSiAN $
(%0361-236885; Jl Cok Agung Tresna 6C; meals
oDepot Cak Asmo iNDoNeSiAN $ 17,000-25,000rp; h8am-10pm) Silver folding
(%0361-798 9388; Jl Tukad gangga; mains from chairs at long tables, shaded by a garish
15,000rp; h9.30am-10.30pm) Join the govern- green awning out front. These are details

133
you will quickly forget after you have the Pasar Badung mArkeT
house speciality: chicken lightly fried yet (Jl gajah mada; h6am-5pm) Bali’s largest food
delicately crispy like the top of a perfect market is recovering from a 2016 fire. While
crème brûlée. The other speciality is a spicy rebuilding continues, there are ad hoc
sop kepala ikan (fish soup). stalls in the surrounding area. Busy in the
mornings and evenings, it’s a great place to
Ayam Goreng Kalasan iNDoNeSiAN $ browse and bargain. You’ll find produce and
(%0813 3950 5150; Jl Cok Agung Tresna 6; mains food from all over the island, and will revel
12,000-25,000rp; h8am-10pm) The name in the range of fruits and spices on offer.
here says it all: fried chicken (ayam goreng)
named for a Javanese temple (Kalasan) in a Pasar Kumbasari mArkeT
region renowned for its fiery, crispy chick- (Jl gajah mada; h8am-6pm) Handicrafts, a
en. Note the hint of lemongrass imbued by a plethora of vibrant fabrics and costumes
long marination before cooking. decorated with gold are just some of the
goods at this huge market across the river
Nasi Uduk Kebon Kacang iNDoNeSiAN $ from Pasar Badung. Note that the malls have
(%0812 466 6828; Jl Teuku Umar 230; meals taken their toll and there are a lot of empty
12,000-25,000rp; h8am-midnight) Open to the stalls.
street, this spotless cafe serves up Javanese
treats such as nasi uduk (sweetly scented Kampung Arab mArkeT
coconut rice with fresh peanut sauce) and (Jl hasanudin & Jl Sulawesi) Has jewellery and
lalapan (a simple salad of fresh lemon basil precious-metal stores run by scores of Mid- South Bali & the iSlandS DeNPASAr
leaves). Chicken dishes win raves. dle Eastern and Indian merchants.
Pasar Malam Kereneng mArkeT $ Textiles South Bali & the iSlandS DriNkiNg & NighTLiFe
(kereneng Night market; Jl kamboja; meals from Follow Jl Sulawesi north and, just as the
10,000rp; h6pm-5am) At this excellent night glitter of Kampung Arab fades, the street
market dozens of vendors dish up food until glows anew as you come upon a strip of
dawn. fabric stores. The textiles here – batiks, cot-
tons, silks – come in colours that make Bar-
6 Drinking & Nightlife bie look like an old purse. It’s immediately
South Bali & the iSlandS DeNPASAr
oBhineka Djaja CoFFee east of Pasar Badung. Many shops are closed
Sunday.
(%0361-224016; Jl gajah mada 80; coffee 7000rp;
h9am-4pm mon-Sat) Home to Bali’s Coffee oJepun Bali TeXTiLeS
Co, this storefront sells locally grown beans (%0361-726526; Jl raya Sesetan, gang ikan mas
and makes a mean espresso, which you can 11; hcall for appointment) It’s like your own
enjoy at the two tiny tables while watching private version of the Museum Negeri
the bustle of Denpasar’s old main drag. Propinsi Bali: Gusti Ayu Made Mardiani is
locally famous for her endek and songket
7 Shopping clothes woven using traditional techniques.
Markets You can visit her gracious home and work-
Denpasar’s largest traditional markets are shop and see the old machines in action,
in a fairly compact area that makes visiting then ponder her beautiful polychromatic
them easy, even if navigating their crowd- selections in silk and cotton. She’s in south
ed aisles across multiple floors is not. Like Denpasar.
other aspects of Balinese life, the big mar- Maju TeXTiLeS
kets are in flux. Large chain supermarkets (%0361-224003; Jl Sulawesi 19; h9am-6pm)
are biting into their trade and the evolving Jammed into a string of fabric stores just
middle class say they prefer the likes of Car- east of Pasar Badung, this narrow shop
refour because it has more imported goods. stands out for its huge selection of genuine
But the public markets aren’t down yet. Balinese batik. The colours and patterns are
This is where you come for purely Balinese bewildering, while the clearly marked rea-
goods, such as temple offerings, ceremoni- sonable prices are not.
al clothes and a range of foodstuffs unique
to the island, including numerous types of
mangosteen.

134

200 m
# e 0 0 0.1 miles
# Jl Kartini
7
Sutomo Jl Karna Jl Veteran
É Jl Durian
Jl É Jl Arjuna #
Jl Gunung Agung
4
Jl Gajah Mada
É '
€
#
3
# 666
6
Jl Thamrin É # # É KAMPUNG Jl Sumatra Jl Udayana É
Jl Surapati
É
9
5
ARAB
&
~
#
2
#
# Sungai Badung Jl Sulawesi 666
1
8
Jl Hasanudin Jl Sugianyar
É
Jl Imam Bonjol
66 666
Jl Diponegoro
66
City Walk
South Bali & the iSlandS BeNoA hA
South Bali & the iSlandS DeNPASAr
2
Strolling Denpasar
South Bali & the iSlandS ShoPPiNgrBoUr
START MUSEUM NEGERI PROPINSI BALI 14th-century Majapahit prime minister). Go
past banks, shops and a cafe towards the
END JL GAJAH MADA bridge over the grubby Sungai Badung (Ba-
LENGTH 2.5KM; TWO HOURS
dung River). Just before the bridge, on the left,
is the renovated 5Pasar Badung (p133),
While Denpasar can seem formidable and traf- the main produce market, which is recovering
fic-choked, it rewards those who explore on from a fire. On the left, just after the bridge, is
foot. This walk includes most attractions in the 6Pasar Kumbasari (p133), where you will
historic centre of town and a few vestiges of find handicrafts, fabrics and costumes.
when Bali moved at a slower pace. Allow extra At the next main intersection, detour north
time for visiting the museum or for shopping. up Jl Sutomo, and turn left along a small
Start the walk at 1Museum Negeri gang (alley) leading to the 7Pura Maospa-
Propinsi Bali (p128). Opposite is large and hit temple (p129).
green 2Puputan Square (p129). Turn back, and continue south along Jl
Back on the corner of Jl Surapati and Thamrin to the junction of Jl Hasanudin. On
Jl Veteran is the towering 3Catur Muka this corner is the 8Puri Pemecutan, a pal-
statue, which represents Batara Guru, Lord ace destroyed in the 1906 Dutch invasion. It’s
of the Four Directions. The four-faced, eight- long since been rebuilt; you can look inside the
armed figure keeps a close eye (or eight) on compound, but don’t expect anything palatial.
the traffic swirling around him. Head 100m Go east on Jl Hasanudin, then north on to
north on Jl Veteran to the 4Inna Bali hotel 9Jl Sulawesi, past its markets. Continue
(p131), a favourite of longtime Indonesian north past Pasar Badung market to return to
dictator Sukarno. Jl Gajah Mada. You could save your visit to
Return to the Catur Muka statue and head the Museum Negeri Propinsi Bali for the end,
west on Jl Gajah Mada (named after the when you’ll just want to move slowly.

135
Malls Note that the bemo network is sputtering and
Western-style shopping malls are jammed fares are approximate and at times completely
on Sundays with locals shopping and teens subjective. Drivers often try to charge nonlocals
flirting; the brand-name goods are genuine. at least 25% more.
Most malls have a food court with stalls Ubung
serving fresh Asian fare, as well as fast-food Well north of the town, on the road to gilimanuk,
joints. the Ubung Bus & Bemo Terminal is the hub for
Matahari mALL northern and western Bali. it also has long-dis-
tance buses in addition to the ones serving the
(Jl Teuku Umar; h10am-10pm) Main branch of terminal 12km northwest in mengwi.
the department store plus numerous other
shops. DESTINATION FARE
Robinson’s mALL gilimanuk (for the ferry 45,000rp
(cnr Jl Teuku Umar & Jl Sudirman) Matahari’s to Java)
arch-competitor has a large selection of mid- mengwi bus terminal 15,000rp
range goods. munduk 20,000rp
Singaraja (via Pupuan 40,000rp
8 Information or Bedugul)
MEDICAL SERVICES
Denpasar has many medical providers that Batubulan South Bali & the iSlandS iNFormAT
serve the entire island. Located a very inconvenient 6km northeast of South Bali & the iSlandS DeNPASArioN
BaliMed Hospital (p394) on the kerobokan Denpasar on a road to Ubud, this terminal is for
side of Denpasar. destinations in eastern and central Bali.
RSUP Sanglah Hospital (p395) The city’s DESTINATION FARE
general hospital has english-speaking staff and
an er. it has a special wing for well-insured Amlapura 25,000rp
foreigners. Padangbai (for the 18,000rp
Kimia Farma (%0361-227811; Jl Diponegoro Lombok ferry)
125; h24hr) The main outlet of the island-wide Sanur 7000rp
South Bali & the iSlandS DeNPASAr
pharmacy chain has the largest selection of
prescription medications in Bali. Ubud 13,000rp
POLICE Tegal
Call %0361-224111 for the tourist police. on the western side of town on Jl iman Bonjol,
Police Station (%0361-424346; Jl Pattimura) Tegal Bemo Terminal is the terminal for kuta and
The place for any general problems. the Bukit Peninsula.
POST DESTINATION FARE
Main Post Office (%0361-223565; Jl raya Airport 15,000rp
Puptuan; h8am-9pm mon-Fri, to 8pm Sat)
your best option for unusual postal needs. has Jimbaran 17,000rp
a photocopy centre and ATms. kuta 13,000rp
8 Getting There & Away Kereneng
Denpasar is a hub of public transport in Bali – east of the town centre, kereneng Bemo Termi-
you’ll find buses and minibuses bound for all nal has bemos to Sanur (7000rp).
corners of the island. Wangaya
AIR Near the centre of town, this small terminal
Sometimes called ‘Denpasar’ in airline sched- is the departure point for bemo services to
ules, Bali’s Ngurah rai international Airport is northern Denpasar and the outlying Ubung bus
12km south in kuta. terminal (8000rp).
BEMO & MINIBUS Gunung Agung
The city has several bemo and bus terminals – if This terminal (Jl gunung Agung), at the north-
you’re travelling by bemo around Bali you’ll often western corner of town (look for orange bemo),
have to go via Denpasar, and transfer from one is on Jl gunung Agung, and has bemos to ker-
terminal to another by bemo (7000rp). obokan and Canggu (10,000rp).

136
BUS
Long-distance bus services use the Ubung Nusa Lembongan
Bus & Bemo Terminal, well north of town. most %0366
long-distance services also stop at the mengwi Once the domain of shack-staying surfers,
terminal. Nusa Lembongan has hit the big time. Yes,
Damri office (%0361-232793; Jl Diponegoro) you can still get a simple room with a view
Ticket office for long-distance buses. of the surf breaks and the gorgeous sunsets
TRAIN but now you can also stay in a boutique ho-
Bali doesn’t have trains but the state railway tel and have a fabulous meal.
company does have an office (p387) in Den- But even as Nusa Lembongan’s popular-
pasar. Buses leave from the nearby Damri office ity grows, it keeps a mellow vibe. The new-
and travel to eastern Java where they link with found wealth is bringing changes though:
trains at Banyuwangi for Surabaya, yogyakarta you’ll see boys riding motorcycles 300m to
and Jakarta among others. Fares and times are school, temples being expensively renovat-
comparable to the bus but the air-conditioned ed, multistorey hotels being built and time
trains are more comfortable, even in economy being marked by the arrival of tourist boats
class. (which still lack any kind of dock). While you
can still cock your ear to the crow of a roost-
8 Getting Around er or the fall of a coconut, you may also need
to be ready to get stuck in traffic.
BEMO
Bemos take various circuitous routes from and 1 Sights
between Denpasar’s many bus/bemo terminals. Jungutbatu Beach
They line up for various destinations at each BeACh
terminal, or you can try and hail them from The beach here, a mostly lovely arc of white
anywhere along the main roads – look for the sand with clear blue water, has views across
destination sign above the driver’s window. to Gunung Agung in Bali. The pleasant sea-
wall walkway is ideal for strolling, especial-
TAXI ly – as you’d guess – at sunset. Floating boats
As always, the cabs of Blue Bird Taxi (p392) are save the scene from being clichéd idyllic.
the most reliable choice. The once redolent odour of drying farmed
seaweed is fading away as all available land
is turned over to tourism.
South Bali & the iSlandS NUSA LemBoNgA
NUSA LEMBONGAN & Pantai Tanjung Sanghyang BeACh
South Bali & the iSlandS geT TiNg AroUND N
ISLANDS (mushroom Bay) This beautiful bay, unof-
ficially named Mushroom Bay after the
Look towards the open ocean southeast of mushroom corals offshore, has a crescent of
Bali and the hazy bulk of Nusa Penida dom- bright white beach. By day, the tranquillity
South Bali & the iSlandS NUSA LemBoNgAN & iSL ANDS
inates the view. But for many visitors the can be disturbed by banana-boat riders or
real focus is Nusa Lembongan, which lurks parasailers. At other hours, this is a beach
in the shadow of its vastly larger neighbour. of dreams.
Here, there’s great surfing, amazing diving, The most interesting way to get here from
languorous beaches and the kind of laid- Jungutbatu is to walk along the trail that
back vibe travellers cherish. starts from the southern end of the main
Once ignored, Nusa Penida is now attract- beach and follows the coastline for a kilo-
ing visitors, but its dramatic vistas and un- metre or so. Alternatively, get a boat from
changed village life are still yours to explore. Jungutbatu.
Tiny Nusa Ceningan huddles between the
larger islands. It’s a quick and popular jaunt Pantai Selegimpak BeACh
from Lembongan. The long, straight beach is usually lapped
The islands have been a poor region for by small waves at this remote-feeling spot
many years. Thin soils and a lack of fresh where unfortunately some guesthouses have
water do not permit the cultivation of rice, built seawalls below the low-tide line. This
but other crops such as maize, cassava and makes an easy traverse at high tide tough.
beans are staples grown here. The main cash About 200m east along the shoreline path
crop has been seaweed, although the big where it goes up and over a knoll is a min-
harvest now comes on two legs. ute cove with a nub of sand, good swimming
and a tiny warung.

137
Dream Beach BeACh

Down a lane, on the southwestern side of the 1 Jungutbatu
island, Dream Beach is a 150m deep pocket The village itself is mellow, although lanes
of white sand with pounding surf and pretty buzz with motorcycles and the rumble of
azure waters. From the right angle it looks trucks. Pura Segara and its enormous sa-
lovely – until you see the ugly hotel that’s cred tree are the site of frequent ceremonies.
been built over one end. It also gets unpleas- The northern end of town holds the
antly crowded with day trippers. metal-legged lighthouse. Follow the road


Nusa Lembongan # e 0 0 0.25 miles
500 m
A B C D
D Toyapakeh 2 # õ D
(7km)
: : Wa :rung :
# 18
# ç 12 ÿ : : Bambu
:
1 # 15 : : (150m) : 1
ÿ
:
: : :
# : : :
ÿ
:
21
: : :
: : : :
Seawall : : :
Walkway : : : : South Bali & the iSlandS NUSA L
Selat 1 # Ù : : :
p ú
Badung # ç 8 Perama 9 f # # # 28 : : : : South Bali & the iSlandS SighTSemBoNgAN
ú
25
#
ÿ
2 # 20 : : : 2
22 : : : :
# South Bali & the iSlandS NUSA LemBoNgAN & iSL ANDS
ÿ
Sanur (19km) 10 # î Medical
# ç 11 Public # ç Clinic JUNGUTBATU
Fast Boats f
# # ì ATM
D
Scoot # #
f ú
f
Rocky Fast Cruises # 24 PURA
# Ý 7 Hillside Path 26 # æ 5 SEGARA D
# # ÿ Poh Manis
ú
#
ÿ
ÿ
Tanjung
3 Sanghyang 3 # 23 16 Lembongan (850m) 3
14
# Ù
ú
4 6 # 27 Sunset Coin Lembongan (700m); Sandy D Pura Puseh (200m);
Sea Breeze Warung (1.5km);
Bay Beach Club (800m); Sunset Villa
ÿ # Ù # æ D Lembongan (800m); Dream Beach (1.2km) Le Pirate Beach Club (2km)
# 19
17 ÿ ÿ
# # 13
A B C D
Nusa Lembongan
æ Sights 15 Indiana Kenanga...................................... D1
1 Jungutbatu Beach .................................. C2 16 Lembongan Island Beach Villas............C3
2 Lighthouse................................................D1 17 Nusa Bay Lembongan ............................A3
3 Pantai Selegimpak.................................. B3 18 Pemedal Beach........................................ D1
4 Pantai Tanjung Sanghyang ................... A3 19 Point Resort Lembongan .......................A3
5 Pura Segara............................................. C3 20 Pondok Baruna........................................C2
6 Sacred Tree............................................. A3 21 Pondok Baruna Frangipani.................... D1
22 Secret Garden Bungalows.....................C2

Ø Activities, Courses & Tours 23 Ware Ware Surf Bungalows...................C3
7 Bounty Pontoon...................................... A3
8 Lacerations.............................................. C2 ú Eating
9 Lembongan Dive Center........................ C2 24 99 Meals House.......................................C3
10 Monkey Surfing....................................... C2 25 Bali Eco Deli..............................................D2
11 Playgrounds ............................................ C2 26 Deck Cafe & Bar ......................................C3
12 Shipwrecks...............................................C1 27 Hai Bar & Grill...........................................B3
World Diving .................................. (see 20) 28 Pondok Baruna Warung.........................D2


ÿ Sleeping
13 Alam Nusa Huts ...................................... A3
14 Batu Karang............................................. C3

138
around east for about 1km to Pura ing trips to dive sites all around the three
Sakenan. islands. Equipment is first-rate.
Lembongan Dive Center DiViNg

1 Lembongan (%0821 4535 2666; www.lembongandivecenter.
The main town on the island looks across com; Jungubatu Beach; s dive from 500,000rp,
the seaweed-farm-filled channel to Nusa open-water course 4,950,000rp) A recommend-
Ceningan. It’s a beautiful scene of clear wa- ed local dive centre.
ter and green hills. A few cafes have sprung Snorkelling
up to take advantage of the view. The town
also has an interesting market and a grand Good snorkelling can be had just off Tan-
old banyan tree. jung Sanghyang and the Bounty Pontoon,
At the north end of town where the is- as well as in areas off the north coast of the
land’s main road passes, you can ascend a island. You can charter a boat for about
long stone staircase to Pura Puseh, the vil- 150,000Rp per hour, depending on demand,
lage temple. It has great views from its hill- distance and the number of passengers.
top location. A trip to the challenging waters of Nusa
Penida costs from 300,000Rp for three
2 Activities hours; to the nearby mangroves costs about
Surfing 300,000Rp. Snorkelling gear can be rented
for about 30,000Rp per day.
Surfing here is best in the dry season (April There’s good drift snorkelling along the
to September), when the winds come from mangrove-filled channel west of Ceningan
the southeast. It’s definitely not for begin- Point, between Lembongan and Ceningan.
ners, and can be dangerous even for ex-
perts. There are three main breaks on the Cruises
reef, all aptly named. From north to south A number of cruise boats offer day trips to
are Shipwrecks (p33), Lacerations (p33) and Nusa Lembongan from south Bali. Trips in-
Playgrounds (p34). Depending on where you clude hotel transfer from south Bali, basic
are staying, you can paddle directly out to water sports, snorkelling, banana-boat rides,
whichever of the three is closest (although at island tours and a buffet lunch. Note that
South Bali & the iSlandS ACTiViTieS
lowest tide you may have to do some walk- with the usually included hotel transfers, the
ing so booties are essential); for others it’s trips can make for a long day.
better to hire a boat. Prices are negotiable,
South Bali & the iSlandS NUSA LemBoNgAN
from about 70,000Rp for a one-way trip – Island Explorer Cruise CrUiSe
you tell the owner when to return. A fourth (%0361-728088; www.bali-activities.com; adult/
break – Racecourses – sometimes emerges child from 1,400,000/700,000rp) This opera-
south of Shipwreck. tor’s large boat doubles as the base for day-
The surf can be crowded here even when trip aquatic fun. It also has a sailing ship
South Bali & the iSlandS NUSA LemBoNgAN & iSL ANDS
the island isn’t – charter boats from Bali and fast boats for transfers. Boats leave from
sometimes bring groups of surfers for day Benoa Harbour. It’s affiliated with Coconuts
trips from the mainland for a minimum of Beach Resort.
1,000,000Rp. Bounty Cruise CrUiSe
Monkey Surfing SUrFiNg (%0361-726666; www.balibountycruises.com;
(%0821 4614 7683; www.monkeysurfing.com; Jun- adult/child US$119/59.50) Boats dock at the
gutbatu Beach; surfboard rental per day 110,000rp, garish yellow offshore Bounty pontoon with
lessons from 550,000rp; h8am-7pm) Rent surf- water slides and other amusements. The
boards and stand-up paddle boards from boat departs from Benoa Harbour.
this shop on the beach, which offers guiding Hiking & Biking
services. You can circumnavigate the island in a day
Diving on foot, or less on a bike. It’s a fascinating
oWorld Diving DiViNg journey into the small island’s surprisingly di-
verse scenery. Start on the hillside path from
(%0812 390 0686; www.world-diving.com; Jungut- Jungutbatu and overcome whatever obsta-
batu Beach; introductory dive 940,000rp, open-wa- cles developers have put on the path to Tan-
ter course 5,500,000rp) World Diving, based jung Sanghyang; with a little Tarzan spirit
at Pondok Baruna, is very well regarded. It you can stay with the faint trail (you can’t do
offers a complete range of courses, plus div-
this segment by bike: use the roads inland).

139
DIVING THE ISLANDS
There are great diving possibilities around the islands, from shallow and sheltered reefs,
mainly on the northern side of Lembongan and Penida, to very demanding drift dives
in the channel between Penida and the other two islands. Vigilant locals have protected
their waters from dynamite bombing by renegade fishing boats, so the reefs are relative-
ly intact. And a side benefit of tourism is that locals no longer rely so much on fishing. In
2012 the islands were designated the Nusa Penida Marine Protected Area, which encom-
passes more than 20,000 hectares of the surrounding waters.
If you arrange a dive trip from Padangbai or south Bali, stick with the most reputable
operators, as conditions here can be tricky and local knowledge is essential. Diving acci-
dents regularly happen and people die diving in the waters around the islands every year.
Using one of the recommended operators on Nusa Lembongan puts you close to the
action from the start. The large marine animals are a particular attraction, including tur-
tles, sharks and manta rays. The large (3m fin-to-fin) and unusual mola mola (sunfish) is
sometimes seen around the islands between mid-July and October, while manta rays are
often seen south of Nusa Penida from June to October.
The best dive sites include Blue Corner and Jackfish Point off Nusa Lembongan
and Ceningan Point at the tip of that island. The channel between Ceningan and Peni-
da is renowned for drift diving, but it is essential you have a good operator who can judge
fast-changing currents and other conditions. Upswells can bring cold water from the
open ocean to sites such as Ceningan Wall. This is one of the world’s deepest natural South Bali & the iSlandS NUSA LemBoNgAN
channels and attracts all manner and sizes of fish. South Bali & the iSlandS SLeePiNg & e ATiNg
Sites close to Nusa Penida include Crystal Bay, SD, Pura Ped, Manta Point and
Batu Aba. Of these, Crystal Bay, SD and Pura Ped are suitable for novice divers and are South Bali & the iSlandS NUSA LemBoNgAN & iSL ANDS
good for snorkelling. Note that the open waters around Penida are challenging, even for
experienced divers.


Next head to Lembongan village. Once oPondok Baruna gUeSThoUSe $
the bridge has been rebuilt, you can follow (%0812 394 0992; www.pondokbaruna.com; Jun-
it to Nusa Ceningen. Alternatively, from gutbatu Beach; r 350,000-650,000rp; aWs)
Lembongan village you take a gentle uphill Associated with World Diving, a local dive
walk along the sealed road to the killer hill operator, this place offers fantastic rooms
that leads down to Jungutbatu, which cuts with terraces facing the ocean. Plusher
the circuit to about half a day. rooms surround a dive pool behind the
To fully explore the island by foot, stick beach. There are another eight rooms at sis-
to the paved road that follows the channel ter site Pondok Baruna Frangipani, set back
between Nusa Lembongan and Nusa Cenin- in the palm trees around a large pool. Staff
gen. After a rugged uphill detour, curve back members, led by Putu, are charmers.
down and go north along the mangroves all
the way to the lighthouse. Secret Garden Bungalows gUeSThoUSe $
Bikes are easily rented for about 30,000Rp (%0813 5313 6861; www.bigfishdiving.com; Jungut-
per day. batu Beach; r with fan/air-con 250,000/400,000rp;
aWs) S Affiliated with Big Fish Diving,
4 Sleeping & Eating there are nine bungalow-style cold-water and
Rooms and amenities generally become in- fan rooms in this palm-shaded compound
creasingly posh as you head south and west back off the beach. Nearby there are also
along the water to Mushroom Bay. some newer air-con bungalows. It has on-
site yoga classes for 100,000Rp. Marine Mega
Fauna gives regular talks here about the

4 Jungutbatu amazing marine ecology around the islands.
Many lodgings in Jungutbatu have shed the oPemedal Beach
surfer-shack cliché and are moving upmar- gUeSThoUSe $$
ket. But you can still find cheapies with cold (%0366-559 6394; www.pemedalbeach.com;
water and fans. Jungutbatu Beach; r from 500,000rp; aWs)
A lovely affordable option if you want to be

140
near a sandy beach; the 11 bungalows are set by a family at this great open-air spot over-
back a bit with an infinity pool. looking the beach.
Pondok Baruna Frangipani gUeSThoUSe $$

(%0812 394 0992; www.pondokbaruna.com; 4 Hillside
Jungutbatu; r incl breakfast 750,000-850,000rp; The steep hillside just south of Jungutbatu
aWs) The more upmarket sister guest- offers great views and an ever-increasing
house to Ponduk Baruna on the waterfront, number of luxurious rooms. The uppermost
Frangipani has spacious, luxurious rooms rooms at some places have gorgeous views
and a good-sized pool. across the water to Bali (on a clear day say
hello to Gunung Agung), but such thrills
oIndiana Kenanga BoUTiQUe hoTeL $$$ come at a cost: upwards of 120 steep con-
(%0828 9708 4367; www.indiana-kenanga-villas. crete steps. A motorcycle-friendly path runs
com; Jungutbatu Beach; r US$150-650; aWs) along the top of the hill, good for leg-saving
Two posh villas and 16 stylish suites shel- drop-offs.
ter near a pool behind the beach at Lem-
bongan’s most upscale digs. The French Ware Ware Surf Bungalows gUeSThoUSe $$
designer-owner has decorated the place with (%0812 397 0572, 0812 380 3321; www.ware-
Buddhist statues, purple armchairs and oth- waresurfbungalows.com; r incl breakfast from
er whimsical touches. The restaurant has an 750,000rp; aWs) The nine units at this
all-day menu of seafood and various surpris- hillside place are a mix of square and circu-
es cooked up by the skilled chef, plus there’s lar numbers with thatched roofs and balco-
a poolside creperie! nies. The large rooms (some with fan only)
have rattan couches and big bathrooms. The
Bali Eco Deli CAFe $ cafe scores with its spectacular, breezy loca-
(%0812 3704 9234; www.baliecodeli.net; Jungut- tion on a large cliff-side wooden deck.
batu; mains from 35,000rp; h7am-10pm) S
This irresistable cafe has great green cred Batu Karang hoTeL $$$
and is noted for giving back to the com- (%0366-559 6376; www.batukaranglembon-
munity. But what it gives customers is also gan.com; r incl breakfast from 2,200,000rp;
good: fresh and creative breakfasts, healthy aiWs) This upmarket resort perched on
snacks, delicious baked goods, good coffees a terraced hillside has a large infinity pool.
and juices plus an array of salads, all served Some of its 25 luxury units are villa-style
in a garden setting. and have multiple rooms and private plunge
South Bali & the iSlandS NUSA LemBoNgAN
pools. All have open-air bathrooms and
South Bali & the iSlandS SLeePiNg & e ATiNg
Pondok Baruna Warung iNDoNeSiAN $ wooden terraces with sweeping views. Right
(Jungutbatu; mains from 40,000rp; h8am-10pm) on the hillside path, The hotel’s Deck Cafe
The dining part of the Baruna empire boasts & Bar is a good pause for a gourmet snack
some of the best food on the island. Look for or a drink.
South Bali & the iSlandS NUSA LemBoNgAN & iSL ANDS
excellent Balinese dishes as well as a range
of fine curries. Many order not one but two Lembongan Island Beach Villas ViLLA $$$
chocolate brownies. (%0366-559 6398; www.lembonganbeachvillas.
com; villa US$170-220; aWs) Eleven luxe
oWarung Bambu SeAFooD $$ villas climb a hillside from a lobby right by
(%0813 3867 5451; Jungutbatu; mains 60,000- the corner of Jungutbatu Beach. Units have
100,000rp; h9am-10pm) On the road to the comfy wicker loungers and hammocks as
mangroves, past the lighthouse, this family- well as large kitchens. The covered balconies
run restaurant serves excellent seafood have great views across to Bali.
meals. The menu depends on what’s caught
offshore. Tables are on a large covered ter- oDeck Cafe & Bar CAFe $
race with a sandy floor. By day you may luck (http://thedecklembongan.com; mains from
out with Gunung Agung views, by night the 85,000rp; h7.30am-11pm; W) Straddling the
lights of Bali twinkle. main hillside walkway, the stylish bar and
cafe of the Batu Karang hotel offers creative
99 Meals House iNDoNeSiAN, ChiNeSe $ drinks from a long list, gorgeous views and
(Jungutbatu Beach; mains from 15,000rp; h8am- interesting snacks (it has a good bakery) plus
10pm) An absolute bargain. Fried rice, ome- upscale pub fare. On Sunday there’s a DJ.
lettes, Chinese stir-fries and more prepared

141

AQUATIC ALLIANCE
The waters around Nusa Lembongan, Ceningan and Penida are filled with some truly
spectacular creatures: huge manta rays, the ponderous mola mola and more. Yet while
they are regularly spotted by flocks of divers who explore these rich waters, little is
known about the actual ecology of the area – except that it’s remarkable.
A group called Marine Mega Fauna (www.marinemegafauna.org) is working to
change that. Through extensive field studies they are beginning to understand just
what’s swimming around out there. One early discovery: like whales, manta rays have
markings that make it easy to identify individuals. The group’s website is filled with fas-
cinating information and you can learn more at their regular public talks at the Secret
Garden Bungalows (p139).




4 Tanjung Sanghyang 4 Elsewhere on Lembongan
It’s your own treasure island. Also known as Poh Manis Lembongan gUeSThoUSe $
Mushroom Bay, there is a nice beach, plenty (%0821 4746 2726; www.pohmanislembongan.
of overhanging trees and some of the most com; r US$32-50; aWs) If Nusa Lembon-
atmospheric lodging on Lembongan. Get gan is a getaway, this is the getaway from
here from Jungutbatu by foot or with a ride Nusa Lembongan. Perched on a bluff on
(15,000Rp) or boat (70,000Rp). the southeast corner of the island, there are South Bali & the iSlandS NUSA LemBoNgAN
sweeping views of the other two Nusas. The
Alam Nusa Huts gUeSThoUSe $ pool area is lovely and the 10 rooms are light South Bali & the iSlandS NUSA LemBoNgAN & iSL ANDS
(%0819 1662 6336; www.alamnusahuts.com; r and airy with a woodsy charm.
from 475,000rp; aW) This small property is
less than 100m from the beach. Four bunga- Sunset Coin Lembongan gUeSThoUSe $$
lows sit in a small, lush garden; each has an (%0812 364 0799; www.sunsetcoinlembongan.
open-air bathroom and a secluded terrace. com; Sunset Bay; r incl breakfast from 1,100,000rp;
The interiors feature a lot of rich wood and aWs) Run by an awesome family, this col-
bamboo. The staff are especially welcoming. lection of 10 cottages is everything an island
escape should be. It’s near the sweet little
Nusa Bay Lembongan hoTeL $$$ spot of sand called Sunset Bay. The lum-
South Bali & the iSlandS SLeePiNg & e ATiNg
(%0361-484085; www.wakahotelsandresorts.com; bung-style units (thatched rice barn) have
bungalow from US$200; aWs) A primitive terraces and fridges.
motif blends with creature comforts at this
low-key resort run by the Waka group. The Sunset Villa Lembongan gUeSThoUSe $$
10 thatch-roofed bungalows are set on sandy (%0812 381 9023; www.sunsetvillaslembongan.
grounds at the shore. The beachside restau- com; Sunset Bay; r US$40-70; aWs) Twelve
rant and bar are shaded by coconut palms modern-style bungalows are arrayed around
and you can dine on the sand. a large pool in a newish compound with
fast-growing vegetation. The units have ter-
oHai Bar & Grill iNTerNATioNAL $$ races and sitting areas; some have fridges.
(%0361-720331; www.haitidebeachresort.com/ The large open-air bathrooms have natural
hai-bar-and-grill; hai Tide Beach resort; mains stone details.
60,000-150,000rp; h7am-10pm; W) This wide-
open bar with wide-open views of the bay Point Resort Lembongan iNN $$$
and sunsets is the most stylish restaurant (www.thepointlembongan.com; ste from US$150;
bar along Tanjung Sanghyang. The menu aWs) About 500m west of Tanjung San-
mixes Asian and Western dishes, and there ghyang is this eponymously named property
are comforts such as fresh-baked muffins. with four plush suites. The views are sweep-
You can use the pool if you eat here, and ing, and should pirates sail in you can watch
open-air movies screen some nights. Call for them get dashed on the rocks below the
pickup from Jungutbatu. infinity pool. The units are bright and airy,
with lovely sitting areas.

142
Sandy Bay Beach Club iNTerNATioNAL $$ Rocky Fast Cruises (%0361-283624; www.
(%0828 9700 5656; www.sandybaylembon- rockyfastcruise.com; Jungubatu Beach; one-
gan.com; Sunset Bay; mains from 55,000rp; way/return US$30/50) runs four large boats
h8.30am-10.30pm; W) Pushing the distressed daily that take 30 minutes.
bleached-wood look for all it’s worth, this Scoot (%0361-285522; www.scootcruise.com;
appealing beach club occupies a fine po- one-way adult/child 400,000/280,000rp)
sition on a sweet pocket of sand most call makes four trips daily; each takes 30 minutes.
Sunset Beach (unless you’re this place and
call it Sandy Bay…). The menu spans Asia 8 Getting Around
and Europe, with a detour to Burgerville. The island is fairly small and you can walk to
The evening seafood barbecues are popular. most places. There are no cars (although pick-up
The beach here is less crowded than Dream trucks are proliferating); bicycles (30,000rp
Beach. per day) and small motorcycles (50,000rp per
day) are widely available for hire. one-way rides
8 Information on motorcycles or trucks cost 15,000rp and up.
one unwelcome development is the SUV-sized
MEDICAL SERVICES golf carts that seem to be mostly rented by
Medical Clinic (consultation from 250,000rp; tourists who find a big cigar to be the perfect
h8am-6pm) The medical clinic in the village driving companion.
has a modern building and is well versed in
treating minor surfing injuries and ear ail-
ments. Nusa Ceningan
MONEY Tiny Nusa Ceningan is usually connected
It’s vital that you bring sufficient cash in rupiah to Nusa Lembongan by an atmospheric –
for your stay, as there is only one ATm and it and rickety – narrow suspension bridge
won’t accept most foreign cards, even when it crossing the lagoon. However, in 2016 the
actually has cash to dispense. bridge failed and nine people were killed. It
remains to be seen if a replacement will be
8 Getting There & Away more substantial.
Normally the bridge makes it quite easy to
Getting to/from Nusa Lembongan offers numer- explore the island. Besides the lagoon filled
ous choices, some quite fast. Note: anyone with
South Bali & the iSlandS NUSA CeNiNg
money for a speedboat is getting into the fast- with frames for seaweed farming, you’ll see
South Bali & the iSlandS iNFormATioNAN
boat act; be wary of fly-by-night operators with several small agricultural plots and a fishing
fly-by-night safety. village. Nusa Ceningan is quite hilly and,
Boats anchor offshore, so be prepared to get if you’re up for it, you can get glimpses of
your feet wet. And travel light – wheeled bags great scenery while wandering or cycling
are comically inappropriate in the water and on around. Key roads have been paved, which
the beach and dirt tracks. Porters will shoulder is opening up the island, although it is still
South Bali & the iSlandS NUSA LemBoNgAN & iSL ANDS
your steamer trunk for 20,000rp (and don’t be very rural.
like some low-lifes we’ve seen who have stiffed There’s a surf break, named for its loca-
them for their service). tion at Ceningan Point, in the southwest; it’s
Perama (www.peramatour.com; Jungutbatu an exposed left-hander.
Beach; one-way 140,000rp) runs one good-
value boat to Sanur daily. it takes less than an 2 Activities
hour.
Public Fast Boats (one-way 150,000rp) Leave oJED ToUr
from the northern end of Sanur Beach for Nusa (Village ecotourism Network; %0361-366 9951,
Lembongan three times daily and take 40 0813 3842 7197; www.jed.or.id; per person US$150)
minutes. To really savour Nusa Ceningan, take an
overnight tour of the island with JED, a cul-
tural organisation that gives people an in-
BOAT SAFETY depth look at village and cultural life. Trips
include family accommodation in a village,
There have been accidents involving
boats between Bali and the surrounding local meals, a fascinating tour with seaweed
islands. These services are unregulated workers and transport to/from mainland
and there is no safety authority should Bali.
trouble arise. Take precautions (p388).

143
FORSAKING SEAWEED
Few ice-cream fans know this but they owe big thanks to the seaweed growers of Nusa
Lembongan, Nusa Ceningan and Nusa Penida. Carrageenan, an emulsifying agent that
is used to thicken ice cream as well as cheese and many other products, is derived from
the seaweed grown here.
As you walk around the villages, you’ll see – and smell – vast areas used for drying
seaweed. Looking down into the water, you’ll see the patchwork of cultivated seaweed
plots. The islands are especially good for production, as the waters are shallow and rich
in nutrients. The dried red and green seaweed is exported around the world for final
processing.
But for how much longer is the real question. Farming seaweed is back-breaking work
with tiny returns. Where just a decade ago 85% of Lembongan’s people farmed seaweed,
today that number is quickly diminishing as the population gets caught up in the tourist
boom, with its comparatively better wages and much easier work.
And Nusa Penida is just a little way behind. We asked one former seaweed farmer who
now works as a guide if he missed the work. His response was comically unprintable.

4 Sleeping & Eating never came? There are not a lot of formal
Le Pirate Beach Club gUeSThoUSe $$ activities or sights; rather, you go to Nusa South Bali & the iSlandS NUSA PeNiDA
(%0811 388 3701, reservations 0361-733493; Penida to explore and relax, to adapt to the South Bali & the iSlandS SLeePiNg & e ATiNg
www.lepirate-beachclub.com; r incl breakfast from slow rhythm of life here.
700,000rp; aWs) With a colour scheme The island is a limestone plateau with a South Bali & the iSlandS NUSA LemBoNgAN & iSL ANDS
of sprightly white and blue, the theme here strip of sand on its north coast, and views
is retro-chic island kitsch. The accommoda- over the water to the volcanoes in Bali. The
tion consists of air-conditioned beach box- south coast has 300m-high limestone cliffs
es, which range from bunk beds that sleep dropping straight down to the sea and a
four to doubles. The popular restaurant row of offshore islets – it’s rugged and spec-
looks over the small kidney-shaped pool and tacular scenery. The interior is hilly, with
has broad views of the channel. Two-night sparse-looking crops and old-fashioned vil-
minimum. lages. Rainfall is low and parts of the island
are arid, although you can see traces of an-
Secret Point Huts gUeSThoUSe $$ cient rice terraces.
(%0819 9937 0826; www.secretpointhuts.com; r Beaches are very few although some are
from US$80; aWs) In the southwest cor- spectacular.
ner of the island overlooking the Ceningan The population of around 60,000 is
Point surf break, this cute little resort has a predominantly Hindu, although there is a
tiny beach and clifftop bar. The rooms are in Muslim community in Toyapakeh. It’s an
lumbung (rice barn) style bungalows with unforgiving area: Nusa Penida was once
open-air bathrooms. used as a place of banishment for criminals
and other undesirables from the kingdom of
Sea Breeze Warung iNDoNeSiAN $ Klungkung (now Semarapura), and still has
(mains 30,000-70,000rp; h8am-10pm) The a somewhat sinister reputation. Yet it’s also
charming Sea Breeze has a great location a centre of rebirth: the iconic Bali starling is
overlooking the channel and the seaweed being reintroduced here after being thought
harvest, and an attractive open-air setting nearly extinct in the wild. And there’s a
decorated with plants. It offers an excellent growing visitor scene near Ped.
seafood selection, and does a tasty nasi
campur. And the Bintang is always cold. 2 Activities
Nusa Penida has world-class diving. Most
Nusa Penida people make arrangements through a dive
Just beginning to appear on visitor itiner- shop on Nusa Lembongan. Between Toyapa-
keh and Sampalan there is excellent cycling
aries, Nusa Penida still awaits discovery. It’s on the beautiful, flat coastal road. The roads
an untrammelled place that answers the elsewhere are good for mountain bikes. Ask
question: what would Bali be like if tourists

144
1 Sights & Activities
PENIDA’S DEMON This entire area has a narrow strip of beach
along the sea.
Nusa Penida is the legendary home of
Jero Gede Macaling, the demon who oPura Dalem Penetaran Ped hiNDU TemPLe
inspired the Barong Landung dance. F The important temple of Pura Dalem
Many Balinese believe the island is a Penetaran Ped is near the beach at Ped, 3.5km
place of enchantment and angker (evil east of Toyapakeh. It houses a shrine for the
power) – paradoxically, this is an attrac- demon Jero Gede Macaling that is a source of
tion. Thousands of Balinese come every power for practitioners of black magic, and
year for religious observances aimed at a place of pilgrimage for those seeking pro-
placating the evil spirits. tection from sickness and evil. The temple
structure is sprawling and you will see people
making offerings for safe sea voyages from
around to rent a bike, which should cost Nusa Penida; you may wish to join them.
about 30,000Rp per day.
oPenida Tours ToUr
Quicksilver WATer SPorTS (%0852 0587 1291; www.penidatours.com; Jl raya
(%0361-721521; www.quicksilver-bali.com; adult/ Bodong; tours from 750,000rp; h9am-6pm) A
child US$110/55) Has day trips from Bali (that great local operation that arranges cultur-
leave from Benoa Harbour). A large barge al tours around Penida, covering anything
anchored off Toyapakeh is the base for all from black magic to seaweed farming. The
sorts of water sports. There are also village office is located next door to Gallery cafe.
tours.
Octopus Dive DiViNg
Sampalan (%0819 77677677, 0878 6268 0888; www.octo-
pusdiveindonesia.com; Bodong; 2-tank dives from
Sampalan, the main town on Penida, is quiet 1,000,000rp) A small and enthusiastic local
and pleasant and strung out along the curv- dive operator.
ing coast road. The interesting market is in
South Bali & the iSlandS NUSA PeN
the middle of town. It’s a good place to ab- 4 Sleeping
sorb village life.
South Bali & the iSlandS SLeePiNg iDA
Several establishments aimed at visitors
4 Sleeping have set up shop in Bodong.
MaeMae Beach House gUeSThoUSe $ Full Moon Bungalows BUNgALoW $
(%0817 479 4176; maemaebeachhouse2015@ (%0852 0587 1291; www.facebook.com/full-
gmail.com; kutampi; r with fan/air-con moonbungalows; Bodong; dm from 125,000rp, r
250,000/300,000rp; aW) In the town of Ku- 300,000-350,000rp; aW) A well-run com-
tampi just outside Sampalan, this guesthouse pound with 15 bungalows. Each is basic
South Bali & the iSlandS NUSA LemBoNgAN & iSL ANDS
is convenient for the main harbour. The but comfortable with thatched walls. You’re
manager Agus speaks excellent English and mere steps from Ped’s small but delightful
is a wealth of knowledge about everything nightlife.
Penida. Rooms are modern, but with a few Jero Rawa homeSTAy $
rough edges. The chilled-out warung does (%0852 0586 6886; www.jerorawa.com; Jl
decent food and is close to the water.
raya Ped; r incl breakfast with fan/air-con from
Nusa Garden Bungalows gUeSThoUSe $ 200,000/300,000rp) Run by a delightful
(%0812 3990 1421, 0813 3812 0660; r from family, this laid-back guesthouse has clean
200,000rp; W) Crushed-coral pathways run- bungalow-style rooms just across the street
ning between animal statuary link the 10 from the beach.
very basic rooms here. Turn on Jl Nusa In- Ring Sameton Inn
dah just east of the centre. gUeSThoUSe $$
(%0813 798 5141; www.ringsameton-nusapenida.
com; Bodong; r incl breakfast 400,000-500,000rp;
Ped & Bodong aWs) If you’re seeking comfort, this is eas-
Ped is home to a very important Balinese ily the best place to stay on Penida. As well
temple. Just 600m west, the tiny subvillage as spiffy business-style rooms, there’s a pool,
of Bodong is the appealing centre of Penida’s an atmospheric restaurant and quick beach
nascent tourist scene. access.

145
5 Eating ling gear. The temple, Segara Sakti, adds
oGallery CAFe $ the perfect touch.
(%0819 9988 7205; Bodong; mains from 25,000rp; 4 Sleeping
h7.30am-9pm) A popular spot for volunteers
at the NGOs, this small cafe and shop is run Namaste gUeSThoUSe $
by the ever-charming Mike, a Brit who is (%0819 1793 3418; www.namaste-bungalows.
a font of Penida knowledge. There’s art on com; r with fan/air-con from 425,000/550,000rp;
the walls, hand-roasted filter coffee, house- aWs) A very steep 1km back from the
made rosella tea and a Western menu of beach, on the road to Toyapakeh, French-
breakfast items and sandwiches. owned Namaste is a high-concept guest-
house with 10 rustic-style bungalows made
oPenida Colada CAFe $ with recycled materials and set around a
(%0821 4676 3627; www.facebook.com/penidaco- large pool. It has a good cafe.
lada; Bodong; mains 35,000-60,000rp; h9am-
late; W) The cocktails at this charming sea- Around the Island
side-shack cafe, run by an Indo–Aussie cou-
ple, are a must. Fresh, creative concoctions A trip around the island, following the
include mojitos and daiquiris to go with a north and east coasts and crossing the hilly
menu of grilled fish, BLTs and chips with interior, can be completed in half a day by
aioli. There’s often a seafood barbecue in the motorcycle or in a day by bicycle if you’re in South Bali & the iSlandS NUSA P
evenings. Enjoy the soothing sound of the good shape. You could spend much longer,
ocean lapping at the narrow beach. This is lingering at the temples and the small villag- South Bali & the iSlandS e ATiNg eNiDA
Penida’s nightlife! es, and walking to less accessible areas, but
there’s no accommodation outside the two
Warung Pondok Nusa Penida iNDoNeSiAN $ main towns. The following description goes
(Bodong; mains from 30,000rp; h9am-9pm) A clockwise from Sampalan. South Bali & the iSlandS NUSA LemBoNgAN & iSL ANDS
cute little breezy place right on the beach. The coastal road from Sampalan curves
Enjoy well-prepared Indo classics and sea- and dips past bays with rows of fishing boats
food (plus the odd international item) while and offshore seaweed gardens. After about
taking in the views to Bali. Try the ‘seaweed 6km, just before the village of Karangsari,
mocktail’ dessert. steps go up on the right side of the road
to the narrow entrance of Goa Karangsa-
Toyapakeh ri caves. There are usually people who can
If you come by boat from Nusa Lembongan, guide you through one of the caves for a
small negotiable fee of around 20,000Rp
you’ll probably be dropped at the beach at each. The limestone cave is more than 15m
Toyapakeh, a pretty village with lots of shady tall in some sections. It extends more than
trees. The beach has clean white sand, clear 200m through the hill and emerges on the
blue water, a neat line of boats, and Gunung other side to overlook a verdant valley.
Agung as a backdrop. There are usually peo- Continue south past a naval station and
ple ready to help you sort transport. several temples to Suana. Here the main
road swings inland and climbs up into the
Crystal Bay Beach hills, while a very rough side track goes
South of Toyapakeh, a paved 10km road southeast, past more interesting temples to
through the village of Sakti leads to idyllic Semaya, a fishing village with a sheltered
Crystal Bay Beach, which fronts the popular beach and one of Bali’s best dive sites off-
dive spot. The sand here is light; palm trees shore, Batu Aba.
add a South Pacific motif. About 9km southwest of Suana, Tanglad
The beach is popular with Bali day trip- is a very old-fashioned village and a centre
pers who arrive in boats (one operator is for traditional weaving. Rough roads south
Bali Hai Cruises; www.balihaicruises.com), and east lead to isolated parts of the coast.
but mostly the beach remains blessedly ru- A scenic ridgetop road goes northwest
ral. At busy times, however, up to 60 boats from Tanglad. At Batukandik, a rough road
might arrive at once, so conditions can get and 1.5km track leads to a spectacular wa-
very crowded. Come after 3pm to avoid the terfall (air terjun) that crashes on to a small
crowds. A couple of warungs and beach ca- beach. Get a guide (20,000Rp) in Tanglad.
fes sell drinks and snacks and rent snorkel- Limestone cliffs drop hundreds of feet
into the sea, surrounded by crashing surf. At

146
their base, underground streams discharge 8 Getting There & Away

fresh water into the sea – a pipeline was The strait between Nusa Penida and southern
made to bring the water up to the top. Bali is deep and subject to heavy swells – if there
Back on the main road, continue to Batu- is a strong tide, boats often have to wait. Charter
madeg, past Bukit Mundi (the highest point boats to/from kusamba are not recommended
on the island at 529m; on a clear day you due to their small size and the potential for
can see Lombok), through Klumpu to Sakti, heavy seas.
which has traditional stone buildings. Re-
turn to the north coast at Toyapakeh, about SANUR
one hour after Bukit Mundi. Various speedboats leave from the same part of
The road between Sampalan and Toyapa- the beach as the fast boats to Nusa Lembongan,
and make the run in less than an hour.
keh follows the craggy and lush coast
through Ped. Maruti Express (%0852 6861 7972, 0812
4689 2524; www.facebook.com/marutiex-
8 Information presspeedboat; one way adult/child from
300,000/150,000rp) one of several fast boats
MONEY making the Penida run.
The one ATm accepts few foreign cards, so bring PADANGBAI
cash. Fast boats run across the strait from Padangbai
TOURIST INFORMATION to Buyuk, 1km west of Sampalan on Nusa Penida
(110,000rp, 45 minutes, four daily). The boats
Penida Tours (p144) is an excellent contact for run between 7am and noon. A large car ferry
island-wide info. also operates daily (passenger/motorcycle
VOLUNTEERING 50,000/41,000rp, two hours).
Various environmental and aid groups are active NUSA LEMBONGAN
on Nusa Penida, with volunteers needed for a va- Nusa Penida public boats run between Lem-
riety of projects. They normally pay a fee (about bongan town by the bridge and Toyapakeh
US$20 per day) that includes accommodation (50,000rp, 20 minutes). Boats depart about
and contributes to the cause. Two organisations every 30 minutes and wait for a crowd of at least
with programs you can join: six passengers. Chartering a boat costs a nego-
Friends of the National Parks Foundation tiable 300,000rp to 400,000rp.
(FNPF; %0361-479 2286; www.fnpf.org) This
South Bali & the iSlandS NUSA PeNiDA
South Bali & the iSlandS iNFormATioN
group has a centre near Ped on the island’s 8 Getting Around
north coast. Volunteer work includes aid in
the restoration of the native Bali starling and Bemos are rare after 10am. There are often
teaching in local schools. Accommodation is people who can set you up for transport where
in simple but comfortable rooms with fans and boats arrive. options for getting around:
cold water. Car & driver From 350,000rp for a half-day.
Green Lion Bali (%0813 3775 7179, 0812 Motorcycle easily hired for 60,000rp per day.
South Bali & the iSlandS NUSA LemBoNgAN & iSL ANDS
4643 4964; www.greenlionbali.com) has an Ojek Not common but when you find a ride on
award-winning program to breed and protect the back of a motorcycle, expect to pay about
turtles along Penida’s north shore. Volunteers 40,000rp per hour.
sign on for at least two weeks and work in the
turtle compound as well as teaching in local
schools. There is a nearby guesthouse.

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd













Ubud & Around






Includes ¨ Why Go?
Ubud . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .148 A dancer moves her hand just so and 200 pairs of entranced
Bedulu . . . . . . . . . . . . .183 eyes follow the exact movement. A gamelan player hits a
Pejeng . . . . . . . . . . . . .184 melodic riff and 200 pairs of feet tap along with it. The
Mas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .185 Legong goes into its second hour as the bumblebee dance
unfolds with its sprightly flair and 200 butts forget they’re
Tampaksiring . . . . . . . .187 stuck in rickety plastic chairs.
Kutri . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .189 So another dance performance works its magic on a
Sukawati & Puaya . . .190 crowd in Ubud, the town amid a collection of villages where
Singapadu . . . . . . . . . . 191 all that is magical about Bali comes together in one very
Batubulan . . . . . . . . . .192 popular package. From nightly cultural performances to
museums showing the works of artists whose creativity
flowered here to the unbelievably green rice fields that spill
down lush hillsides to rushing rivers below, Ubud is a feast
for the soul. Personal pleasures like fine dining, shopping,
Best Places spas, yoga and nearby villages of artisans and ancient sites
to Eat only add to the appeal.
¨ Locavore (p174)
¨ Moksa (p177) When to Go
¨ Mozaic (p177) ¨ From October to April the weather is slightly cooler
¨ Warung Teges (p176) but much wetter than in the south; expect it to rain
at any time. At night, mountain breezes make air-con
¨ Hujon Locale (p173)
unnecessary and let you hear the symphony of frogs, bugs
and distant gamelan practices echoing over the rice fields
Best Places through your screened window.
to Sleep ¨ Temperatures during the day average 30°C and at night
20°C, although extremes are possible. Seasonal variation
¨ Swasti Eco Cottages is muted.
(p169) ¨ Peak season: July, August and the Christmas holidays
¨ Padma Ubud (p164) bring a huge influx of visitors and lodgings and
¨ Mandapa, a Ritz-Carlton restaurants are booked.
Reserve (p172) ¨ In October, the Ubud Writers & Readers Festival is
¨ Maya Ubud (p170) hugely popular.
¨ Como Uma Ubud (p170)

148
UBUD
# \ # \ # e 0 2 km
Taro Sebatu 0 1 mile Ubud is culture, yes. It’s also home to good
# Gunung restaurants, cafes and streets of shops, many
4
# \
Payangan Tampaksiring # \ Kawi selling goods from the region’s artisans.
There’s somewhere to stay for every budget,
# \ Ceking and no matter what the price you can enjoy
Yehtengah lodgings that reflect the local Zeitgeist: art-
# \
Keliki # \ # \ Tegallalang ful, creative and serene.
Sungai Petanu ing on the hoopla created by the bestselling
Ubud’s popularity continues to grow, add-
# \ Sebali Eat, Pray, Love. Tour buses with day trip-
Payogan pers can choke the main streets and cause
# \ # \ Jungjungan Sungai Petanu traffic chaos. Fortunately, Ubud adapts and
Kedewatan
# \ a stroll away from the intersection of Jl Raya
# \ Petulu
Sayan Andong Ubud and Monkey Forest Rd, through the
# \ Sungai Pakerisan nearby verdant rice fields, can quickly make
# \
# \
### ## all right with the world.
6
3
2
1
7
Ubud Spend a few days in Ubud to appreciate
# \ Pejeng
Penestanan # \ it properly. It’s one of those places where
# \ Peliatan
Nyuhkuning days can become weeks and weeks become
# \
# \ Teges # \ Bedulu months, as the noticeable expat community
# \ demonstrates.
Pengosekan
Gianyar
Kangetan # \ Kutri # \ History
5
# \ # \ # Mas Sungai Petanu Late in the 19th century, Cokorda Gede
SungaiWos Belega # \ # \ Bona Agung Sukawati established a branch of the
UbUd & AroUnd UBU
Sukawati royal family in Ubud and began a
UbUd & AroUnd Sigh d
Sakah
Kemenuh
# \
UbUd & AroUnd UBUd TS
# \ # \ Blahbatuh series of alliances and confrontations with
neighbouring kingdoms. In 1900, with the
# \
# \
Ubud & Around kingdom of Gianyar, Ubud became (at its
# Y
Highlights own request) a Dutch protectorate and was
able to concentrate on its religious and cul-
1 Dance Performance (p180) Feeling tural life.
the rhythm of a traditional Balinese The Cokorda descendants encouraged
cultural event, one of Ubud’s great night- Western artists and intellectuals to visit
time pageants . the area in the 1930s, most notably Walter
2 Ubud Cafes (p178) Whiling away the Spies, Colin McPhee and Rudolf Bonnet.
hours among new friends at a breezy idyll They provided an enormous stimulus to
with excellent locally roasted coffee. local art, introduced new ideas and tech-
3 Cultural Courses (p160) Refining niques, and began a process of displaying
your batik technique and sambal recipes and promoting Balinese culture worldwide.
by taking instruction from one of Ubud’s As mass tourism arrived in Bali, Ubud be-
talented locals . came an attraction not for beaches or bars,
4 Gunung Kawi (p188) Making like but for the arts.
indiana Jones at these towering ancient The royal family is still much a part of
wonders . Ubud life, helping to fund huge cultural and
5 Traditional Villages (p185) Exploring religious displays such as memorable crema-
hamlets around Ubud, such as Mas, for tion ceremonies.
artworks, crafts, ceremonial objects and
other treasures . 1 Sights
6 Yoga (p157) Finding your inner
balance at one of Ubud’s famous yoga

centres . 1 Central Ubud
7 Fine Dining (p172) Enjoying the Temples, art galleries, museums and markets
remarkable variety of restaurants in dot the middle of Ubud. Some of the most
Ubud, where creativity and great taste are important sit close to the main intersection
hallmarks . at Jl Raya Ubud and Monkey Forest Rd.