DK Eyewitness: Back Roads Northern and Central Italy (Travel Guide)

EyEwitnEss tRAVEL


BACK RoADS



noRtheRn AnD


CentRAl itAly
























































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EyEWitnEss tRAVEL



BACK RoADS





noRtheRn AnD

CentRAl itAly




contributors:
Gillian Arthur, Kate Hughes,
Gillian Price, Lucy Ratcliffe, Christine Webb,
Marius Webb, Celia Woolfrey













































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CONTENTS


ABOUT THIS BOOK 6
INTRODUCING NORTHERN
MANAGING EDITOR Madhavi Singh
AND CENTRAL ITALY 8
EDITORIAL MANAGER
Sheeba Bhatnagar GETTING THERE 10 Above Pretty Riomaggiore, built over the Rio Major
DESIGN MANAGER Kavita Saha PRACTICAL INFORMATION 12
DEPUTY DESIGN MANAGER DRIVE 5
Mathew Kurien DRIVING IN ITALY 16
PROJECT EDITORS Sandhya Iyer, WHERE TO STAY 22 LOMBARDY’S GLACIAL VALLEYS
Shikha Kulkarni Bergamo to Erbusco 64
PICTURE RESEARCH MANAGER WHERE TO EAT 24 3 days
Taiyaba Khatoon THE DRIVES 26
PICTURE RESEARCHER DRIVE 6
Sumita Khatwani
SENIOR DTP DESIGNER DRIVE 1 SWITCHBACKS AND LIMONAIE
Azeem Siddiqui IN THE SHADOW OF THE ALPS Arco to Gargnano 72
SENIOR CARTOGRAPHIC 1 day
MANAGER Uma Bhattacharya Turin to Castello
CARTOGRAPHY Zafar-ul-Islam Khan di Rivoli 28 DRIVE 7
ILLUSTRATOR 3–4 days
Arun Pottirayil FROM THE LAKE TO THE PLAINS
Color reproduction by Media Development DRIVE 2 Salò to Mantua 78
Printing Ltd, UK 3 days
Printed and bound in China IN THE LAND OF THE TRUFFLE
First American Edition, 2012 Barbaresco to Cuneo 38 DRIVE 8
17 18 19 20 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
3–4 days
Published in the United States by THE HIDDEN VALLEYS OF THE
Dorling Kindersley Publishing, Inc., ALTO ADIGE
345 Hudson Street, New York, NY 10014 DRIVE 3
Reprinted with revisions 2015, 2018 SACRED MOUNTAINS & ISLAND Merano to Brunico 86
Copyright 2010, 2018 © Dorling PALACES 3 days
Kindersley Limited, London
All rights reserved. No part of this publication San Carlone to Varese 48 DRIVE 9
may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, CLASSIC DOLOMITES TOUR
or transmitted in any form or by any means, 4–5 days
electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording Bolzano to Alpe
or otherwise, without the prior written DRIVE 4
permission of the copyright owner. COMO’S VILLAS AND VILLAGES di Siusi 96
Published in the UK by 4–5 days
Dorling Kindersley Limited. Como to Brunate 56
A Penguin Random House Company 2–3 days
A CIP catalogue record is available from the
Library of Congress.
ISBN 978 1 4654 6775 1
Below The typical dark volcanic stone of medieval Below The Baia di Silenzio and the harbor at
Front cover: Cypress tree by a narrow road winding Abbadia San Salvatore Sestri Levante
through corn fields near Ville di Corsano
















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Above Fresco at Varese’s Sacro Monte Above Le Balze sandstone landscape near Piantravigne Above View across Prato della Valle in Padua

DRIVE 10 DRIVE 15 DRIVE 20
MOUNTAINS AND LAKES THE LIGURIAN COAST AND UMBRIAN HILLS, TUSCAN
Laghi di Fusine APENNINES VALLEYS
to Trieste 104 Camogli to Riomaggiore 148 Orvieto to Arezzo 196
5 days 4–5 days 3–4 days
DRIVE 11 DRIVE 16 DRIVE 21
THE VENETO PLAIN SANCTUARIES AND FORESTS UMBRIA’S VERDANT VALLEYS
Verona to Venice 114 Fiesole to Anghiari 160 Perugia to Arrone 206
4 days 2–3 days 3–4 days
DRIVE 12 DRIVE 17 DRIVE 22
DOLOMITES TO VENETO HILLS VAL D’ARNO AND THE CHIANTI LANDS OF MYTH AND LEGEND
Cortina d’Ampezzo HILLS Rieti to Lago di
to Treviso 122 Ponte Buriano to Corbara 216
4 days Volpaia 170 3–4 days
2–3 days
DRIVE 13 DRIVE 23
THE PO DELTA DRIVE 18 THE STONE OF THE APENNINES
Ferrara to Ravenna 130 SACRED PATHS Città di Castello
2–3 days San Miniato to San to Jesi 226
Galgano 178 3 days
DRIVE 14 4–5 days
THE AZURE COAST TO THE PO DRIVE 24
VALLEY DRIVE 19 MONTEFELTRO MOUNTAINS
Genoa to IN THE SHADOW OF A VOLCANO Rimini to Fano 236
Portovenere 140 Castiglione d’Orcia to San 3–4 days
4–5 days Casciano dei Bagni 188 DRIVE 25
2–3 days
THE HEART OF LE MARCHE
Loreto to
Below Typical blue and white road signs near Below The winding road up to Santuario della
Lake Como Madonna del Ghisallo Grottammare 246
3–4 days





INDEX 256
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS 260
PHRASE BOOK 261
ROAD SIGNS 266




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About this Book 7

About this Book



The 25 drives in this book capture the diversity Our drives embrace the region’s world-famous
of Northern and Central Italy, from the snow- art towns, but rather than being treated as
capped mountain ranges on the borders with isolated spots on a weekend break, they are
France and Austria to the hill towns of Tuscany included in tours that encourage a wider
and Umbria; from the dramatic coastline of the exploration of the history, culture and landscape
Ligurian Cinque Terre to the lakes of Lombardy that gave rise to them. Other drives go right
and the Veneto. A modern, industrialized nation off the beaten track – to enchanting villages,
with its finger on the commercial and cultural remote mountain outposts, hidden rocky coves
pulse of Europe, Italy is also a country where and rarely visited archaeological sites – allowing
traditional values are maintained, and the pace visitors to explore facets of Northern and Central
of life outside of its cities is still refreshingly slow. Italy that many never experience.

Getting Started and a clearly mapped itinerary. There
The guide begins with all the practical is advice on the best time of year to Using the Sheet Map
information you need to plan and do the drive, road conditions, market A pull-out road map of the entire
get the most out of a driving holiday days and major festival dates. The region is supplied at the back of
in Northern and Central Italy: how to drive pages contain detailed descrip- the guide. This map contains all
get there; tips on bringing your own tions of each sight and activity, the information you need to drive
vehicle or hiring one; details of the linked by clear driving instructions. around the country and navigate
documentation required; and motor- Side panels offer information on between the different tours.
ing advice, from the quirks of Italian places to stay and eat. Tinted boxes All motorways, major roads,
driving and road signage to where feature suggestions for extra activi- ferry ports and airports – both
you can buy petrol and what to do if ties and background information. domestic and international – are
your car breaks down. Health, money These might include details of a local clearly identified. There is also a
and communications are also cov- festival or speciality; tips for a wine- comprehensive index, allowing
ered and there is an overview of din- tasting tour; or where to go hiking. you to locate sights quickly
ing and accommodation options. A The flexible nature of the tours and easily. The map is further
language section at the back lists means that some can be linked supplemented by a handy
essential words and phrases, includ- together to create a longer driving distance chart, to enable you
ing key driving-related vocabulary. holiday, or simply dipped into to plan to gauge the distances between
day trips while based in one particu- the major cities. All of these
The Drives lar region. Each drive also features a features make the pull-out
The main touring section of the mapped town or countryside walk- map an excellent addition
guide is divided into leisurely drives, ing tour, designed to take no more to the individual drive-itinerary
ranging in duration from one to than three hours at a leisurely pace maps within the book.
seven days. Most of the tours are with stops on the way.
on paved roads, and where they are
not, they are on good-quality unmet-
alled roads, which should pose no
problems for a standard vehicle.
The drives encompass every area of
Northern and Central Italy. To help
visitors choose and plan a trip, each
drive begins with a list of highlights
Top left Manarola, a Cinque Terre town in Liguria
Top right Fishing boats moored at Lazise, on the
eastern shore of Lake Garda Centre left
Grey-stone houses in the medieval heart of
Abbadia San Salvatore Centre right The rolling
Tuscan landscape near Montisi Below left Fiat
500, Greve in Chianti Below right A fresco in the
Neo-Classical Villa Melzi, Bellagio Above Driving in the Upper Tiber region of northern Umbria




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Introducing Northern and Central Italy 9

Introducing Northern and Central Italy



The culture, cuisine, traditions and landscape of specialities at the breakfast table. In Northern
Northern and Central Italy are best appreciated and Central Italy – whether driving through the
close up, and there is no better way to home in Alpine peaks of the Alto-Adige, over the rolling
on this endlessly fascinating part of the world hillsides of Le Langhe or along the Adriatic
than to slow down, leave the busy autostrada coast in Le Marche – the visitor will never be far
and explore the countryside by its back roads. from beautiful towns rich in culture and history,
Follow one road to a vineyard and meet a prize- evocative landscapes and gourmet delights.
winning winemaker; pull over on another to let Travelling the back roads reveals how, beneath
a shepherd pass with his flock; or take a third the contemporary surface, a world that many
to experience the genuine hospitality of a B&B thought had ceased to exist half a century
owner proudly introducing you to regional ago is alive and well, and as alluring as ever.

When to Go surge in traffic levels. Schools break strawberries or cherries. Carnevale
Each drive includes a recommendation up for summer in mid-June and sees masked and fancy-dress parades
for the ideal time to make the trip. resume in mid-September. The Easter in many towns and villages, most
This may be because the scenery is holidays usually begin on the Thursday spectacularly in Venice and Ivrea.
at its best or rivers are at their highest before Easter and end on the Monday Ferragosto is marked by free outdoor
and most spectacular, or perhaps or Tuesday afterwards. Summer week- concerts, dancing and often fireworks.
because the azaleas or apple ends and days around public holidays
blossom are in bloom. There might be can also be very busy on the roads. Public Holidays
a local festival taking place, or it could
be that a certain food is in season. Festivals New Year’s Day (1 Jan)
The weather, of course, is also a factor. Festivals and fairs take place all over Epiphany (6 Jan)
The northern half of Italy has a varied Italy throughout the year. As well as Easter Sunday and Monday
climate falling into three distinct the Easter and Christmas festivities, Liberation Day (25 Apr)
geographical zones: in the north, every town and village has a patron Labour Day (1 May)
expect cold, Alpine winters and warm, saint, and each one marks its saint’s Republic Day (2 Jun)
wet summers; in the vast central Po day with special celebrations. Spring Ferragosto (15 Aug)
valley, summers are hot and humid and autumn are the best times for All Souls’ Day (1 Nov)
and winters damp, foggy and freezing; sagras, festivals devoted to local foods. Immaculate Conception of the
Tuscany, Umbria and Le Marche enjoy Mushroom, sausage, olive oil, chestnut Blessed Virgin Mary (8 Dec)
a more clement climate, with long, and wine sagras are common in Christmas Day (25 Dec)
hot summers and relatively mild autumn, while spring sagras are Santo Stefano (26 Dec)
winters. In general, the best times to often devoted to seasonal fruits like
visit Northern and Central Italy are
spring and autumn, ideally between
April and June or September and
October, when the climate should be
mild without being too hot, and the
whole region is generally much less
crowded than in high summer.
Times to Avoid
As far as possible, roads and airports
should be avoided at the beginning
of August and in the days just before
and after Ferragosto (15 August), the
national summer holiday. The start
of school holidays also sees a great


Left The pretty resort village of Limone sul Garda,
on the shores of Lake Garda Above The springtime ritual of Calendimaggio, celebrated in Assisi




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10 BACK ROADS NORTHERN AND CENTRAL ITALY

Getting There

The increasing availability of low-cost flights has revolutionized
travel to and within Italy. Provincial airports across the country
are now open to international flights from other European cities,
both major and provincial. Arriving at a small airport – where
queues for immigration and baggage are short, and where a
hire car can easily be collected (often at a discounted rate
through the airline company) – generally makes for the best
start to a driving holiday in Italy. Travellers from outside Europe
may find it cheaper to fly via London or another European hub
to take advantage of the many low-cost flights on offer. Above Motorway through Val Isarco, Trentino
Alto Adige

Arriving by Air good alternatives; they also fly from Verona airport is known as Verona-
From the UK and Ireland, the Australia. From South Africa, KLM and Villafranca but also as Valerio Catullo.
scheduled airlines – British Airways, Lufthansa are often the best options. Note that on road signs, an airport
Alitalia and Aer Lingus – fly to airports If you are heading for any of the may be referred to by any of its names,
throughout Northern and Central more southerly areas covered by or a combination – including by the
Italy, including Milan, Turin, Bologna, this guide – for instance Umbria or airport’s international code (for
Verona, Venice and Pisa. London and Le Marche – it’s worth noting that example, MXP for Malpensa or
Dublin offer the greatest choice but Rome’s Fiumicino is a closer inter- VBS for Brescia-Montichiari).
there are also flights from Edinburgh, continental option than Milan’s twin
Manchester, Birmingham and Bristol. airports of Linate and Malpensa. Even Arriving by Rail
Low-cost carriers including Jet2, if you’re heading further north, it Countless direct services (including
flybe, Ryanair and easyJet fly from may still make sense to fly into Rome many sleepers) link Italy with the
provincial airports all over the UK if the Italian airline Meridiana can major European cities. Connections
and Ireland to small airports across offer a competitively priced way of from Paris (and, via Eurostar, from
Northern and Central Italy. taking you on to your destination. London) run to Turin, Milan, Venice,
Delta, Alitalia and American Airlines It’s also worth bearing in mind that Bologna, Florence and Pisa.
offer daily flights from New York, Los air companies frequently offer a range Rail services also operate from
Angeles, Chicago, Miami and Atlanta of discounted tour packages and “air German, Swiss and other northern-
to Rome and Milan; one short stopover passes”, which allow you to fly to mul- European cities to Milan, Turin,
greatly extends the network. Many tiple destinations within a designated Venice and Verona, and there are
European carriers fly to Italy (via their area, with varying degrees of flexibility. direct services from Vienna, Spain
capitals) from major US and Canadian and the south of France.
cities – for instance, Lufthansa (via Italian Airports Low-cost airlines have forced
Frankfurt), KLM (via Amsterdam) and Italy’s system of naming its airports the train companies to be a little
British Airways (via London). can be confusing to the uninitiated. more competitive. Special discount
Air New Zealand offers the best Airports are named not only after the fares are often available online. As
deals from New Zealand to Italy but nearest major city, and perhaps the the trains can be extremely busy
Malaysia Airlines, Thai Airways, British nearest village as well, but usually after during peak periods (Friday and
Airways, Qantas and Emirates are all a famous Italian too. For example, Sunday evenings, the Christmas





















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Getting There 11

DIRECTORY
and Easter holidays and during July around 12 hours (a journey of some
and August), it is advisable to make 1,900 km/1,200 miles). The AA and AIRLINES
reservations if you intend to travel Michelin both offer reliable route Aer Lingus
at those times. planners on www.theaa.com and www.aerlingus.com
There are direct motorail train www.viamichelin.co.uk. Air New Zealand
services to Livorno in Tuscany and www.airnz.co.nz
Alessandria in Piemonte from Arriving by Sea Alitalia
’s-Hertegenbosch (convenient for the A well-developed network of ferries www.alitalia.com
Hook of Holland ferry port) in the links Northern and Central Italy American Airlines
www.aa.com
Netherlands. Three German railway with neighbouring Mediterranean British Airways
stations – Hamburg, Dusseldorf and countries such as France, Spain, www.ba.com
Neu-Isenburg – are boarding points for Croatia, Greece and Tunisia. Delta
motorail services to Alessandria and Minoan Lines and Anek run large www.delta.com
Bolzano. There is no direct motorail ferries with cabins and vehicle decks easyJet
connection from France, although from several ports in Greece to www.easyjet.com
you can travel to Nice via motorail Venice, the northwest’s busiest port, Emirates
www.emirates.com
then drive across the Italian border. most months of the year. A grand
way to travel, the Istrian peninsula flybe
www.flybe.com
Arriving by Road and the Dalmatian coast are linked Jet2
Most roads into Italy from the rest to Venice through the summer by www.jet2.com
of Europe involve Alpine crossings fast catamarans and ferries run by KLM (Royal Dutch Airlines)
by tunnel or mountain pass. The operators such as Venezia Lines, and www.klm.com
exceptions are the approach from Atlas. Venice is also a key port for Lufthansa
Slovenia in the northeast (on the state-of-the-art cruise ships bound www.lufthansa.com
A4 motorway) and the route along for the Mediterranean. Companies Malaysia Airlines
www.malaysiaairlines.com
the French Riviera that enters Italy stopping here include P&O Cruises
as the A10 motorway at Ventimiglia. and MSC Crociere. Meridiana
www.meridiana.it
The most popular route from Both ferries and cruise ships Qantas
Geneva and southeast France is dock at Venezia Terminal Passeggeri, www.qantas.com
via the Mont Blanc tunnel and a large terminal near Tronchetto Ryanair
A5 motorway, entering Italy close that spreads along the lagoon www.ryanair.com
to Aosta and Turin. Another busy and canalside from the Stazione Thai Airways
approach (from Switzerland) uses Marittima basin to Santa Marta www.thaiairways.com
the St Bernard Pass and Tunnel. The and San Basilio. RAIL
main route from Austria and southern Genoa’s Stazione Marittima is the Deutsche Bahn
Germany crosses the Brenner Pass northwest’s main ferry hub, with links www.bahn.de
and goes down to Verona on the to Corsica, Tunis and Barcelona. Ferries Eurostar
A22 motorway via Trento and the from Corsica also arrive at Vado. Several 03432 186186; www.eurostar.com
Adige valley. Most motorways are toll companies operate these services, Rail Europe
08448 484 064 (UK)1-800-382-RAIL
roads – you pay as you exit them. including Tirrenia and Grimaldi. (US)1-800-361-RAIL (Canada); www.
Travellers from the UK could take raileurope.com www.raileurope.co.uk
a car to one of the French Channel Far left Malpensa airport, Milan Left MV Crystal TReinreiswinkel
ports by ferry or on the Eurotunnel Serenity navigating the lagoon on departure from www.treinreiswinkel.nl
rail shuttle. Once there, the drive to Venice Below High-speed train in Milano ROAD
Genova in the north of Italy takes Centrale station
The AA
www.theaa.com
Eurotunnel
08705 353 535; www.eurotunnel.com
Michelin
www.viamichelin.com
SEA
Anek
www.anek.gr
Atlas
www.atlas-croatia.com
Minoan Lines
www.minoan.gr/en
MSC Crociere
www.msccruises.com
P&O Cruises
www.pocruises.com
Venezia Lines
www.venezialines.com

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12 BACK ROADS NORTHERN AND CENTRAL ITALY

Practical Information

There is relatively little red tape involved in visiting Italy, especially
for nationals of other European Union countries. Once you are
there, the systems work reasonably well, even if at times they can
be rather bureaucratic. Things tend to be more efficiently run in
the north of the country than in the south, but it is still advisable
to sort out your paperwork before leaving home. If you find
yourself needing to visit a bank, the police or a doctor, make Above The green neon sign of an
sure you have a photo ID, a good book and plenty of patience. Italian pharmacy
Passports and Visas and delayed or cancelled flights. of a local hospital is often the quickest
European Union (EU) nationals can Check that the per­article limit covers way to get reliable treatment – but be
enter Italy and stay indefinitely with your most valuable items. You will aware that this can cost you around
a valid passport or identity card. need to take out special cover if you €30 a visit plus prescription charges.
Citizens of the United States, Canada, are intending to take part in sports, If you are taking prescription medi­
Australia, New Zealand and some or in any activ ities that are considered cines, it is a good idea to bring the
other countries (for example, Brunei hazardous, including skiing, wind­ packaging with you in case you run
and Barbados) can stay for up to three surfing and mountaineering. Most out. Many pharmacists will be happy
months on production of a passport, insurance policies also include legal to sell you a replacement for drugs
but will need to apply for a visa at their cover up to a specified amount, as such as anti­inflammatories, antibiotics
local Italian embassy in advance if they do comprehensive motor policies. and blood pressure medications
wish to stay longer. Citizens of some without requiring a prescription.
countries (for example, Bahrain and Health Phar macies are also a good source
Bolivia) will need a visa from the As a member of the European Union, of advice on minor ailments. They are
outset – for details, visit the website Italy has reciprocal health agreements signalled by a green cross, and if the
of the Italian Ministry of Foreign Affairs with the other member states. All EU one you go to is closed, there will be
(www.vistoperitalia.esteri.it/home/en). nationals are therefore entitled to the a notice on display telling you where
same treatment as Italian nationals to find the nearest open one.
Travel Safety Advice – at the same price – in Italy’s public If you are involved in an accident,
Visitors can get up­to­date travel health care system. To be eligible you call 112 or 118 or go to the pronto
safety information from the Foreign must produce a European Health soccorso department of the nearest
and Commonwealth Office in the UK, Insurance Card (in the UK, forms are hospital. If you are in a major town
the State Department in the US and available at most post offices or you or city, it may be possible to find an
the Department of Foreign Affairs can apply online at the website of the English­speaking doctor – or, at least,
and Trade in Australia. UK Department of Health). The card someone who can translate for you.
is free and is valid for five years. In Medicare Australia has a reciprocal
Travel Insurance holiday areas there may be a guardia agreement with Italy. All other non­
All travellers should consider getting medica – a kind of minor ailments and EU citizens should make sure that
travel insurance. A policy will usually emergencies clinic – designed to deal the terms of their health insurance
cover you for loss or theft of luggage with the sort of accidents that befall policies cover all eventualities.
and other property (such as pass­ tourists; all non­residents will be asked No inoculations are required
ports and money), and for personal to pay a flat fee, usually around €15. for Italy, but mosquito repellent
accident, repatriation in case of Otherwise, visiting the pronto soccorso is useful in the summer months.
severe illness, third­party damage (accident and emergency) department In recent years, there has been a




















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Practical Information 13












Left US passports Middle Recent legislation is slowly making the area more accessible for Disabled Travellers Right The carabinieri, a military police force
marked increase in jellyfish numbers your valuables in zip or button-down DIRECTORY
in the Mediterranean. None are pockets. Unless you speak good Italian,
particularly dangerous, but a sting it is better to report a crime in person CONSULATES
is painful and can leave weals on the rather than phoning. If you are going Australian Consulate General
skin for days. To relieve the pain and to claim for stolen goods on your 3rd Floor, Via Borgogna 2, 20122 Milan;
0277 6741; www.italy.embassy.gov.au
swelling, wash the wound with sea insurance, you will need a crime report.
water (never fresh water, which will There are two crime-fighting forces British Consulate General
Via San Paolo 7, 20121 Milan; 0272
react with the sting and worsen the in Italy, the rivalry between which is 3001; www.gov.uk/government/world/
pain) and put a bag of ice on it for five legendary. The carabinieri, the military organisations/british-embassy-rome
or ten minutes before disinfecting it. branch, have stations in just about Canadian Consulate General
In severe cases, seek medical attention. every village; the civil police, polizia PIazza Cavour 3; 02 62694238
di Stato, have a station, known as the New Zealand Consulate General
Personal Security questura, in most sizeable towns. Either Via Terraggio 17, 20123 Milan;
Random violence is generally less can furnish you with a crime report, 02 721 70001; www.nzembassy.com
prevalent in Italian society than in but English is not always spoken. United States Consulate General
Via Principe Amedeo 2/10, 20121 Milan;
many northern European countries. 0229 0351; milan.usconsulate.gov
Drinking to excess is simply not a Disabled Travellers
cultural norm, and Italy suffers less Italy can be quite challenging for the TRAVEL SAFETY ADVICE
from alcohol abuse than anywhere mobility-impaired. Archaeological Australia
www.dfat.gov.au; smartraveller.gov.au
else in the Western world. As a result, sights and castles can be inaccessible
drunken violence is mercifully rare. by their nature, and even museums United Kingdom
www.gov.uk/foreign-travel-advice
Petty crime, however, is just as rife as and galleries are frequently stepped, United States of America
in any European country, particularly with non-existent or poorly main- www.travel.state.gov
in inner-city and tourist areas. Take tained lifts. On-street parking and
care in stations, markets, on public uneven pavements can make villages HEALTH
transport and around busy tourist and towns hard work for those using Medicare Australia
www.humanservices.gov.au/
sights; keep an especially close eye sticks or wheelchairs, and for the sight- customer/dhs/medicare
on your mobile phone and camera. impaired too. Recent legislation is UK Department of Health
Make sure you leave bags or valuables beginning to make a difference in www.dh.gov.uk
out of sight when you park your car, some areas: spacious, specially
especially if you have foreign plates. adapted toilets are on the increase in
You will always look like a tourist to bars and restaurants, as are modified Below far left Pedestrian crossing signal
those with a trained eye, but try not bedrooms in hotels; but you should Below left Ambulance Below middle Police
to be an easy target; look as if you come to Italy aware that it won’t woman giving directions Below right Herbal
know where you’re going, and keep always be free-wheeling. pharmacy Below Police officer directing traffic


















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14 BACK ROADS NORTHERN AND CENTRAL ITALY


The Telephone System credit cards, but prices are often
In Italy, the city phone code is an incredibly expensive.
integral part of every number and A good alternative to public
italian-newspapers-B8N941 always has to be dialled. So in calling phone booths are the numerous
Italy from abroad, the initial zero of call centres (usually found around
the city code must be retained. the stations of larger towns) from
Italy has more mobile phones per which local migrant workers often
head of population than anywhere phone home. The international
in Europe except Finland. European rates are competitive, you pay
mobiles will work in Italy, but when you’ve finished and you Above Popular Italian newspapers
Americans will need a tri-band don’t have to contend with the
phone. Coverage is generally good, noise of passing traffic. Banks and Money
although it can be patchy near some Italy is one of the many European
of the higher mountain ranges. Internet countries whose currency is the
Check with your provider for With the increasing availability of euro. The euro is split into 100 cents.
roaming options and high-speed internet (ADSL) and There are seven euro notes (€5, €10,
international booster Wi-Fi, most hotels and many €20, €50, €100, €200 and €500) and
packages, which greatly cafés have somewhere eight euro coins (€2, €1; and 1, 2, 5,
reduce the cost of you can access the web; 10, 20 and 50 cents).
phone and data travellers with their own The easiest way of drawing cash
charges while you’re laptop will probably is to use a debit or credit card at a
abroad. Roaming need a plug adaptor. Bancomat (ATM) machine. Most cards
charges for visitors from Public libraries also have a maximum daily withdrawal
certain countries were provide half-hour and one- limit (typically €250). It is essential
banned in the EU in 2017. Logo seen on Italian hour slots, which you may to inform your bank that you will
Check with your operator. public phones need to book in advance. be using your card abroad, as many
In the past, you could banks will block transactions they
only use an Italian SIM card if you Post regard as “unusual”.
had a codice fiscale (Italian tax code). The Italian postal system – Poste Many banks charge high rates of
However, several reliable service Italiane – is somewhat erratic. It interest (typically 2.5 per cent) for
providers now offer pre-registered can be marvellously efficient, but withdrawals and transactions made
Italian SIM cards for unlocked also, at times, appallingly slow. If your abroad. Debit or credit cards with
European-standard GSM phones, package is urgent, avoid sending a PIN are increasingly accepted at
giving you an Italian mobile number it registered, as registered mail tends larger shops, hotels, restaurants and
and reduced-rate calls. Alternatively, to be amassed at the collection point petrol stations, but some smaller
international SIM cards work well in before being sent on. Instead, use establishments (including some rest-
Italy – again, as long as you have an the postal system’s courier service, aurants) will not accept cards, and in
unlocked European-standard GSM Posta Celere, or, for international general Italians still prefer to use cash.
phone. The main phone operators in deliveries, Pacco Celere Internazionale, Travellers’ cheques have now been
Italy are TIM, Vodafone, Wind and 3. which is cheaper and more widely largely replaced by so-called Cash
Public phone booths are available outside major cities than Passports – prepaid currency cards that
becoming something of a rarity, international operators like DHL, UPS are loaded before travelling and can
and the few left only accept coins. and Fedex. Stamps (francobolli) are be used in shops and ATMs abroad.
Some of the public phones found sold at post offices, tobacconists and They are available from Thomas
at airports or stations do accept at most shops that sell postcards. Cook, Travelex and various banks.





















014-015_Back_Roads_Northern_Italy.indd 14 21/09/17 11:16 am

Practical Information 15












Left Regional bank of the Südtirol Middle Public telephone Right Sign for a post office
Banking hours in Italy are quite Saturday 9am–1 or 2pm; the same DIRECTORY
restricted, so its best to acquire some goes for privately owned museums,
local currency before you arrive. If but they may also open for several COMMUNICATIONS
you want to take cash euros, you hours in the afternoon. Sunday
might get a better rate of exchange opening is generally mornings only. Calling Abroad from Italy
00 followed by the country code:
by using online currency operators. Many large museums now open UK +44, Ireland +353, USA +1,
Once you have arrived, the best throughout the day year-round, with New Zealand +64, Australia +61
exchange rate for cash will usually late-night openings in summer (till Directory Enquiries
be obtained at an Italian bank, but 10pm or later Tuesday to Saturday and 1240
check the commission fees as they till 8pm Sunday). Most archaeological International Directory Enquiries
can vary widely. Bureaux de change sites open daily, from 9am until dusk. 176
can be found in most towns and
offer the convenience of long Time and Electricity Italy Country Code
+39
opening hours, but they tend to Like most of Europe, Italy is one hour
charge higher commission rates. ahead of Greenwich Mean Time (GMT), Operator Services
Rates in hotels and exchange booths year-round. Italian voltage is 220 volts. 176 (also for reverse charge and calling
are rarely competitive. Plugs have either two or three round card calls)
pins, which can vary in diameter; a Poste Italiane (Italian Post Office)
Tourist Information travel plug often comes in handy. www.poste.it
Most Italian towns have either ITALIAN AND INTERNATIONAL
an APT (Azienda di Promozione Smoking SIM CARDS
Turistica) or EPT (Enti Provinciali per Smoking was banned in bars, rest-
il Turismo) information office. These aurants and public buildings in 2005, Double Zero Double Four
www.0044.co.uk
can vary enormously in the level of though many places have an outdoor
service they offer, but will at least terrace where it is permitted. The Telestial
provide maps, travel guides and situation is different in hotels; make www.telestial.com
information on local events. sure that you request a no-smoking MONEY
room if you don’t want it smelling of
Opening Hours the last occupant’s favourite brand. Thomas Cook
www.thomascook.com
Most shops open Monday to Saturday
9am–1pm and 4–7pm, but many Below far left Walking-trail information boards, Travelex
remain closed on Monday morning Pietrarubbia Below left “Open” sign Below www.travelex.co.uk
and Saturday afternoon. State-run middle The Torrazzo (clocktower) in Crema TOURIST INFORMATION
museums tend to open Tuesday to Below Post box Italian State Tourism Board
www.enit.it




















014-015_Back_Roads_Northern_Italy.indd 15 21/09/17 11:16 am

16 BACK ROADS NORTHERN AND CENTRAL ITALY

Driving in Italy

Driving is one of the best ways of exploring Northern and
Central Italy – particularly for getting away from the crowds and
reaching the more remote areas and sights. For long distances,
Italy has a compre hensive motorway system, easily accessed
from the rest of Europe. The condition of minor roads may vary
in quality, but most are passable with care. Mountainous terrain
can make for an exhilarating drive along twisty, hairpin roads, Above Sign showing the Italian speed limits
but be sure to take them at a relaxed pace. for main and secondary roads
Insurance and left-hand driving, to ensure that the and ViaCard, look for the blue signs.
Breakdown Cover hot-spot of the beam lights up the A white sign with only banknotes
In Italy it is compulsory for drivers edge of the road and does not dazzle and coins indicates a self-service
to have third-party motor insurance. oncoming drivers. EU drivers must lane; a white sign with a hand
Check with your insurance provider display a country sticker on their car holding the bank notes indicates
that you are fully covered to drive (unless the numberplate includes that there will be an operator. Avoid
abroad; in some cases, drivers will their country’s euro-symbol). the yellow Telepass lanes; these are
only be covered for basic Road Traffic for drivers with an on-board device
Accident insurance – not for theft, or Road Systems that registers tolls and deducts them
for the legal costs that can ensue in Italy was the first country in the from their bank account.
the event of an accident. UK drivers world to build a motorway: the Italian motorways are designated
can arrange full breakdown cover Autostrada dei Laghi, which runs with the letter “A” followed by a
while abroad – some companies from Milan to Varese, and was opened numeral – for instance A8, for the
even offer a package that includes a in 1924. Nationwide, there are now Autostrada dei Laghi. Some motor-
24-hour English-language helpline. more than 6,000 km (3,700 miles) ways are also part of the pan-European
of autostrade, built by both state and system, whose roads are designated
What to Take private companies, with several new with an “E” followed by a numeral.
If you are driving your own car, you roads planned. The privately built Therefore an Italian motorway can
should carry your vehicle insurance motorways are toll roads; non-toll have two numbers: say A11 and E45.
policy with you – ideally with a roads are managed by ANAS On signage, these are indicated in
statement of cover in Italian, usually (Azienda Nazionale Autonoma delle white on a green background.
provided by your insurer. The insurer Strade Statali). On a toll road, you Secondary roads are known as
should also provide a European pick up a ticket when you join the strada statale (SS), strada provinciale
Accident Statement form. Additionally, motorway and pay as you exit. Tolls (SP) or strada comunale (SC) – the
you will need to carry with you the can be paid in cash, by credit card latter sort is usually very small, and
vehicle registration document and a (Visa, MasterCard, American Express maintained by the local town council.
valid driving licence, and you should or Diners Club), or with a prepaid SR (rare) signifies a strada regionale.
also have spare bulbs, a warning “ViaCard”, available from motorway Although the road numbering system
triangle and a high-visibility jacket service stations and toll-booth is comprehensive, it is not widely
(to be worn if your car breaks down operators. As you approach a toll used in Italy; you will see the numbers
and you have to leave the vehicle). station, make sure you get into the on milestones at the side of the road,
The headlights of right-hand-drive correct lane: for payment in cash, but they are not always given on
cars will need to be adjusted for follow the white signs; for credit card signposts. It is useful to know the





















016-017_Back_Roads_Northern_Italy.indd 16 21/09/17 11:16 am

Driving in Italy 17












Left Roadside mirror near Radda in Chianti Right Automatic lanes at a motorway toll station
next place of any size on your route, the police for speeding may be asked DIRECTORY
as it is the town or village name rather to pay 25 per cent of the total fine
than a number that will probably on the spot; a receipt will be issued. COMMON ROAD SIGNS
be referred to on the sign. Note that The use of mobile phones in cars
some roads may just be named, and (except hands-free) is prohibited. Seat Centro
Town or city centre
may not use a number at all. belts, if fitted, are compulsory for Incrocio
The privately run motorways have both front- and rear-seat passengers, Crossroads
their own website, www.autostrade.it, although somewhat alarmingly, Lavori in corso
where you can get live traffic reports many Italians do not use seat belts, Roadworks ahead
by clicking on a map. even when driving on motorways. Parcheggio
Never drink and drive – the alcohol Car park
Speed Limits and Fines limit is 0.05 per cent. Rallentare
On motorways, the speed limit for Slow down
cars and motorcycles over 150 cc is Driving with Children Senso unico
130 kmph (80 mph); on main roads it Children under 1.5 m (4 ft 11 in) and One way
is 110 kmph (70 mph); on secondary 36 kg (79 lbs) must be transported Senso vietato
roads, 90 kmph (55 mph); and in built- in an appropriate restraint system: up No entry
up areas, 50 kmph (30 mph). Speed to 18 kg (40 lbs) in a baby seat, and Sosta vietata
limits are lower if you are towing (see above that in a booster seat. If you are No parking
p21), or if you have held a licence for renting a car, baby and booster seats Strada a doppia corsia
under three years, in which case you can be hired when you book. Remem- Dual carriageway
must not exceed 90 kmph (55 mph) ber to check that there is no airbag Strada panoramica
on main roads or 100 kmph (62 mph) fitted if you intend to put a child in the Scenic route
on motorways. Limits are also lower front passenger seat. Service stations Tutte le direzioni
if there is fog or heavy rain. are tolerably frequent on motorways, All directions
Some drivers disregard the motor- but although toys and sweets are Uscita
way speed limit, but the use of speed prominently displayed in their bars, Exit
cameras is becoming more wide- children are not well catered for; baby-
spread. If you incur a fine while you are changing facilities are virtually non-
driving a rental car, the rental company existent, and there is unlikely to be Below far left Hiking-route signs, Val di Planol
will deduct the money from your anywhere for older kids to let off steam Below left Road climbing through a tunnel to the
credit card when the fine arrives; speed safely. Some car rental comp anies hire village of Pieve Below middle Parking sign Below
fines can range from around €150 out portable DVD players, which might right Drive through the spa town of Pré-Saint-Didier
to €250. Tourists who are stopped by make long journeys less stressful. in the Valle d’Aosta Below Road signage for Citerna





















016-017_Back_Roads_Northern_Italy.indd 17 21/09/17 11:16 am

18 BACK ROADS NORTHERN AND CENTRAL ITALY












Left Motorway in Milan Right The precipitous road out of Elva, in the Valle Maira
Rules of the Road Buying Petrol a good day to travel if you have a
Remember: always drive on the right. Petrol (benzina) stations are frequent; long distance to cover, as the lorry
Most visitors from a country with left- most open from early morning until drivers are safely at home eating
hand traffic get used to right-hand lunchtime, then from 3pm till around lunch with their families.
driving pretty quickly, but roundabouts 7pm. Outside those hours you will Road maintenance is a major issue.
and crossroads can be disorientating often find an automatic pump that Italian roads have a lot to contend
at first, as can turning from a one-way accepts either credit/debit cards or with, from freezing winters in the
street onto a road with two-way traffic banknotes, although these are less mountains to landslide-inducing
– especially if that road is empty. common in rural areas. Petrol stations rainstorms and baking hot, tarmac-
On motorways, Italian drivers can be on motorways tend to be open 24 melting summers. “White roads”,
aggressive. Some of them believe the hours a day. Unleaded (senza piombo) known as strade bianche, have only
inside lane is only for lorries, don’t like petrol is universally available, as a gravel surface, though these are
being overtaken and rarely use the are diesel (gasolio) and LPG (PLG). If still marked on road maps.
rear-view mirror. They concen trate on you are driving near Switzerland, it’s
the cars in front of them and those to worth noting that petrol prices there Mountain Roads
the side, and if they see a space ahead are about two-thirds of what they Reaching some of Italy’s most spec-
of them, they will fill it. The best advice are in Italy, so it might be worth a tacular viewpoints and mountain
is to let them pass. If a car flashes its trip over the border to fill up – many passes inevitably involves tackling
headlights it is telling you to get out Italians will be doing just that. If you hairpin bends (the Stelvio Pass in
of the way, and it is best not to argue. decide to follow suit, don’t forget Trentino-Alto Adige has 48 of them
Unless road signs indicate that you will need your passport and, in succession!) and some steep,
otherwise, you should give way to where applicable, an appropriate visa. narrow roads with sheer drops, such
vehicles joining your road from the as those on the route through the
right. Outside built-up areas, use Road Conditions valleys of the Ortles mountain range.
dipped headlights at all times or risk Italy’s motorways often flow freely, In spring, road surfaces may have
a hefty fine. Surprisingly, in a country although rush hours and summer been eroded by heavy winter snow,
where football victories and weddings holidays can see the kind of long snow-melt and frost, and it can take
are celebrated by convoys of cars tailbacks common to most of Europe. some time for repairs to be under-
sounding their klaxons, you should The busiest times are weekends in taken, especially off the beaten track.
only use the horn in emergencies. The July, and the beginning and end of Unless you are used to driving in
British Foreign and Commonwealth August. Travel of any kind on either snow and ice, it is safer to avoid moun-
Office offers detailed advice on safe side of the national summer holiday, tainous areas in winter conditions,
Italian road travel in the “Travel Advice Ferragosto (15 August), should be especially on unfamiliar roads. In
by Country” section of its website. avoided at all costs. Sunday is usually certain areas, snow chains will be





















018-019_Back_Roads_Northern_Italy.indd 18 21/09/17 11:16 am

Driving in Italy 19












Left Petrol pumps near Lake Garda, Lombardy Right Road signs near Costigliole d’Asti
recommended in mid-winter, and Breakdown and Accidents DIRECTORY
it would be foolish to ignore such In the event of an accident or
advice. For advance weather break down, switch on your hazard GENERAL DRIVING INFORMATION
warnings that might affect your warning lights and place a warning
journey, always check one of the triangle 50 m (164 ft) behind your ACI (Italian Automobile Club)
www.aci.it
Italian weather websites, such as car. If you break down and do not
www.meteo.it or www.ilmeteo.it. have pan-European breakdown Autostrade per l’Italia
www.autostrade.it
cover, you will need to call the
Taking a Break ACI – the Italian Automobile Club. Foreign and Commonwealth Office
Service stations on Italian motorways This organization offers free tows www.gov.uk/driving-abroad
are less frequent than in the UK and to anyone driving in Italy with foreign RAC
other parts of Europe, and they can number plates. If you are in a hire car, www.rac.co.uk
be pretty basic, with little more than call the rental company and follow Touring Club Italiano
a toilet and a bar where you can get their advice; the ACI should still www.touringclub.it
a coffee and a heated-up pastry or offer a free tow, as long as you can EMERGENCIES
a toasted sandwich. Service stations produce your rental contract and
with fast-food restaurants are on the flight tickets. If you do have pan- Fire Brigade
115
increase – in particular the Autogrill European cover, your provider will
chain, which offers decent sandwiches contact the nearest garage and Medical Emergency/Ambulance
118
and usually has a small supermarket make arrangements for you.
where you can pick up basic supplies If you are unfortunate enough to Police (Carabinieri)
112
and even some local specialities. On be involved in an accident, depending
the back roads, however, you are more on its severity, call one of the emer- Police (Polizia Statale)
113
likely to find a pretty village with a bar gency services listed in the Directory. Roadside Assistance
where you can have a good coffee If there is any damage to a vehicle or 116
or snack at a fair price, so if you are to passengers, it is obligatory to call
getting tired, consider leaving the the police. You will then need to fill
motorway and taking a break in the out a European Accident Statement
nearest town or village. Well-priced (see p16) and take the contact details
set-lunch deals aimed at local workers and vehicle registration number of
(pranzo di lavoro) are worth looking any other cars involved. If you have a Below far left Mountain road in the Dolomites
out for; service will be fast, and you camera, it is a good idea to take photos Below left Symbol of Agip, a petrol company
can get a simple, well-cooked three- of the accident from all angles before Below middle Road through the Val d’Orcia,
course meal for under €20. any of the vehicles are moved. Tuscany Below Road signs near Lake Como



















018-019_Back_Roads_Northern_Italy.indd 19 06/10/17 2:59 pm

20 BACK ROADS NORTHERN AND CENTRAL ITALY


Parking Restricted Traffic and
Parking in an Italian town or city Congestion Charges
can demand a great deal of time and The centres of many Italian towns and
patience. When kerb-space is limited, historic villages are closed to non-
drivers tend to park anywhere and resident traffic. These so-called Zona
everywhere: on pavements, at bus a Traffico Limitato (restricted traffic
stops, even blocking private entrances. zones) are usually indicated by signs
The anarchy of Italian parking notwith- displaying the letters “ZTL” in black on
standing, it is unwise to follow suit; a yellow background. Many of these
parking attendants are on the rise, as zones are monitored by cameras, and Above Street mirror on a narrow road in Amiata
are zone di rimozione (tow-away zones). fines are issued to those who enter
In cities and villages alike, double without authorization. Other towns To rent a car in Italy you need to
parking is common, triple parking impose traffic restrictions on certain be over 20, and to have held a full
becoming more so. Towns and villages days, or at certain times of day – licence for at least one year. Be sure
popular with tourists usually have Bergamo, for instance, does this in its that your rental agreement includes
paying car parks just outside the historic centre, Città Alta. Make sure collision-damage waiver (CDW) and
centre, and many places now operate you read the signs: lavorativo or feriale theft protection, as well as unlimited
a zoned parking scheme, with the means Monday to Saturday, and is mileage. Child seats need to be
type of zone indicated by the colour of marked by two crossed hammers; booked in advance. With the rise in
the lines on the side of the road. Blue- festivi indicates Sundays and public inner-city congestion, automatic cars
zone parking spaces have a maximum holidays, and is marked by a Christian are becoming more widely available.
stay of between one and two hours, cross. If your hotel is within a restricted When you collect the vehicle you
and cost around €1 an hour (though area, you will need a police permit to will need to produce your passport,
they can be free at lunchtime, after enter with your car (they will need to driving licence and credit card (from
8pm and on Sundays). White-zone know your registration number). which an impression will be taken as
areas are free. Yellow-zone areas are for The city of Milan has introduced a a security deposit). Cars are usually
residents only. For zones where there congestion-charge scheme (Area C) supplied with a full tank of petrol,
is a time-limit but no parking fee, in an attempt to reduce traffic and it is wise to return them refilled,
Italian cars (including rental cars) come volumes and pollution. Other towns as if not, you will be charged at an
equipped with a disco orario (mini – among them Genoa and Turin – inflated rate for filling the tank.
clock dial) that you set with your time are discussing following suit.
of arrival and display in the window; if Motorbikes and Scooters
you do not have one, you may be able Car Hire Italy is the land of the Vespa, and
to get one from the local tourist office. All the major international car rental 10 per cent of the population has
When parking, do not leave any companies – such as Avis, Budget, a motorbike or scooter. Two-wheel
valuables in your car – and certainly Hertz and Europcar – operate in Italy. transport makes sense for navigating
nothing visible. Virtually all Italian It is worth comparing rates online the labyrinth of streets that forms the
cars have removable car radios, before you decide which to use, as centre of many cities, and you will
which Italian drivers invariably take well as investigating any deals offered usually find somewhere (free) to
with them when they park. Secure, by your airline; low-cost airlines are park, even in the busiest metropolis.
indoor, city car parks are expensive, particularly competitive in this area. Away from the city, Italy is an
but hotels can offer guest discounts. You could compare the deals you exhilarating country to traverse by
Disabled drivers displaying the have found yourself with those of bike, with roads twisting up and
blue disabled badge can park in a reliable car-rental broker such as down mountains and along dramatic
designated disabled spaces. Holiday Autos or AutoEurope. coastlines, unmade “white” roads to





















020-021_Back_Roads_Northern_Italy.indd 20 21/09/17 11:18 am

Driving in Italy 21












Left An Italian camp site in summer Right Terminillo Road, a typical, winding mountain drive
explore and a landscape that The speed limit for driving with a DIRECTORY
changes constantly. Note that if caravan or trailer is 50 kmph (30 mph)
you are on a motorbike or scooter, a in built­up areas; 70 kmph (45 mph) CAR HIRE
helmet is compulsory for both driver on secondary and main roads; and
and pillion – a rule enforced with 80 kmph (50 mph) on motorways. AutoEurope
www.autoeurope.com
increasing frequency. A driving
licence or motorbike driving licence Maps and Sat Nav Devices Avis
www.avis.com
is required for all vehicles over 49cc. The best maps for long journeys
Motorcycles must use dipped head­ and overall planning are the AA Road Budget
lights at all times during the day. Atlas Italy (1:250,000) and Touring www.budget.co.uk
Club Italiano’s Atlante Stradale d’Italia Europcar
Caravans and (also 1:250,000). Regional maps from www.europcar.com
Motorhomes/RVs Touring Club Italiano (1:200,000) are Hertz
In recent years, motorhomes have invaluable for local exploring, but even www.hertz.com
become very popular in Italy. Local they will not plot every country lane Holiday Autos
councils have established designated and unsurfaced track. Touring Club www.holidayautos.co.uk
camper parks near many popular tour­ does, however, occasionally produce CAMPER VAN HIRE
ist areas, and larger camp sites nearly maps of small areas of particular
always accept campers and caravans. interest – such as national parks – at Comocaravan
www.comocaravan.it
Camper van or mobile home rental 1:50,000 scale. These are rarely sold
is becoming increasingly common. in shops, but available at park offices. Italy Motorhome Hire
Prices are usually around €1,000 for Satellite navigation devices such as www.italy-motorhome-hire.com
a four­berth vehicle for a week in TomTom or Garmin now come with
high season, with unlimited mileage – good maps that cover Italy. Some
companies to try include Italy car rental firms offer these devices
Motorhome Hire and Comocaravan. as an extra if you book in advance.
In peak season, you will need to If you are intending to use a sat nav
book places in advance at camp application on your mobile phone,
sites. In quieter areas, free camping check that the software has on­board
is on the increase, but it is illegal. mapping rather than relying on the Below far left Road signage, Chianti Below left
To avoid offending local sensibilities mobile network to download maps Camper van near Lake Como Below middle
(or ruining other people’s views), ask as you go, or you’ll incur call charges Tourist information map in Valli di Comacchio
advice from the local traffic police (with accompanying roaming charges) Below middle right Iconic Italian scooter Below
(vigili) before parking up for the night. whenever you use the maps. Getting about in Parco di San Bartolo





















020-021_Back_Roads_Northern_Italy.indd 21 06/10/17 2:59 pm

22 BACK ROADS NORTHERN AND CENTRAL ITALY

Where to Stay

Italy has some of the most memorable places to stay in Europe,
ranging from grand hotels oozing belle époque glamour to boutique
hotels on the cutting edge of contemporary design. Both the
agriturismo scheme – which allowed the owners of farms, vineyards
and country estates to convert historic barns, villas and palaces
into rooms and apartments – and the vibrant bed-and-breakfast
scene have made it easier for visitors to avoid the impersonality Above Hotel Splendid, Baveno, on the shores of
of service found in so many traditional hotels and pensioni. Lake Maggiore
B&Bs Boutique Hotels or the friendliness or helpfulness
Since legislation came into force in The international trend for boutique of staff. If such things are important
2001 allowing ordinary people to offer hotels has found fertile ground in Italy to you, then the accommodation
bed-and-breakfast in their homes, – not surprisingly, given the plethora of recommendations made in this
hundreds of B&Bs have opened in Italy. historic buildings as well as the Italian guide should help you to find the
The best of these can offer excellent sense of food, hospitality, life style and kind of place you are looking for.
value for money as well as the design. Some boutique hotels are
opportunity to experience exceptional run by hospitality-trade professionals, Agriturismi
Italian hospitality, whether the setting others by passionate newcomers, The agriturismo scheme began in
is a couple of rooms in a simple often from the worlds of architecture the 1980s to enable farmers and
city apartment or a glamorous suite and design. Visitors will find plenty landowners to boost falling revenues
in a historic palace. The BB Planet of boutique hotels recommended by renting out converted farm
website is a useful online resource. in this guide, but websites such as buildings to tourists. They can range
The rules state that a B&B should i-escape and Mr & Mrs Smith are from cool, state-of-the-art country
have no more than five rooms and that also well worth a browse. hotels to simple down-to-earth self-
the owners must live on the premises catering apartments. Some serve food
(although not all B&Bs fully adhere to Hotels for guests made from home-grown
these rules). In the best-run places, Italian hotels are given an official produce, others have full-blown
breakfasts can be fantastic affairs, with rating of between 1 and 5 stars restaurants. Many offer activities
home-made jams and cakes, fresh (though the 7-star Town House Galleria such as horse riding, and some have
croissants and fruit; at the other end of has recently opened in Milan: www. developed into little country resorts,
the spectrum, you might be handed sevenstarsgalleria.com). Note that the with swimming pools, tennis courts
a cellophane-packed croissant and a number of stars awarded to a hotel and mountain bikes to rent.
juice box the night before. is based solely on a checklist of
If you are looking for a B&B on facilities and services, such as how Booking
spec, ask if there are any staff on the many rooms have a telephone or It is wise to book well in advance if
premises and if not, how to contact ensuite bathroom, the presence you are travelling in July and August,
the owner should the need arise. or absence of a rest aurant on site, or around Easter and the various
Also check if breakfast is served and whether there is 24-hour room springtime public holidays. Hotels
in the B&B, or whether they have service. This means that the star in coastal and lake resorts often
an arrangement with a local café. rating is no guide to the subtler, close between October and Easter.
Occasionally, B&Bs may allow you more subjective charms of hotels, Reservations can often be made
free use of the kitchen. such as cleanliness, the style of decor online, though not all sites belonging





















022-023_Back_Roads_Northern_Italy.indd 22 21/09/17 11:16 am

Where to Stay 23












Left Alpine Hotel, Courmayeur, in the Valle d’Aosta Right Stylish bedroom in the Hotel Greif, Bolzano
to individual hotels are secure, which Camping DIRECTORY
may be a little unsettling if credit card Camping is becoming increasingly
details are requested as a guarantee. popular in Italy, and there are plenty B&Bs
You can mimimize risk by booking of sites both on the coast and in the
over the phone or by using a hotel- mountains. They are usually open BB Planet
www.bbplanet.it
booking site with a secure website from April to September, though
such as Trip Advisor or i-escape. some sites stay open year-round in AGRITURISMI
the south and in Sicily. For the tentless, Official agriturismo website
Facilities and Prices sites often have bungalows, sleeping www.agriturismo.it
Double rooms in Italian hotels usually up to six, and there is normally space BOUTIQUE HOTELS
have a double bed (letto matrimoniale), for caravans and camper vans. i-escape
so if you prefer twin beds (due letti), www.i-escape.com
it is wise to request that when you Self-catering Mr & Mrs Smith
book. Single rooms are rare, and you If you want to focus on a single region, www.mrandmrssmith.com
will often end up having to pay for consider renting a villa or rural house
a single use of a double. Bathrooms, for a week or two. There are lovely HOTELS & SELF-CATERING
even in 4-star hotels, do not always places throughout Northern and Italy by Italy
have bathtubs. Many B&Bs have Central Italy, ranging from simple rustic www.italybyitaly.it
rooms without an ensuite bathroom, retreats and seaside apartments to Trip Advisor
but frequently there will be a palatial places with pools, maids, chefs www.tripadvisor.com
bathroom across the corridor for and masseurs. The widest choice can CAMPING
your sole use. In the cheapest hotels, be found in Tuscany and Umbria, but
bathrooms are likely to be shared. Lake Como and the Veneto are also Italian camp sites
www.camping.it
In hotels, rates are quoted per room; popular villa destinations, with many
in B&Bs, per person. The more expen- properties in exquisitely restored PRICE CATEGORIES
sive B&Bs will usually cost about as country houses. The Italy by Italy The following price bands are based
much as a 2- or 3-star hotel, but tend websites both have useful self- on a standard double room in high
to offer better value in terms of service catering sections. season, including tax and service:
and surroundings. You will often find inexpensive – under €100
rooms at a reduced rate on the web, Below far left A relaxing guest lounge moderate – €100–€200
expensive – over €200
either on the hotel’s own website or Below left Spa at the Hotel Victoria, Turin
on one of the many sites brokering Below middle Doorway of a B&B in
bargain hotel deals. Weekend rates Castelmuzio Below Hotel Ristorante Locanda
in city hotels are often great value. San Vigilio, on the eastern shore of Lake Garda





















022-023_Back_Roads_Northern_Italy.indd 23 21/09/17 11:16 am

24 BACK ROADS NORTHERN AND CENTRAL ITALY

Where to Eat

One of the great pleasures of travelling in Northern and Central
Italy is exploring the rich culinary and wine-making traditions of
each region. Every drive in this guide provides the opportunity
to sample regional specialities, whether it be the pesto and fish
dishes of Liguria, the truffles, hams and salamis of Umbria or
the cheeses, dumplings and smoked sausages of the Alto-Adige.
Below is a basic guide to the typical kinds of eating places you will
find in Italy, from simple pizzerias to sophisticated gourmet haunts.
Practical Information on a separate dish alongside. Finally, Above Menu for a pizza restaurant in Riva del
Perhaps the most typical Italian there is the dolce, or dessert. House Garda, near Lake Garda
breakfast is a croissant (cornetto) and wines can vary in quality, but a
coffee at a bar. The coffee comes in quarto (quarter), mezzo (half) or more basic, homely sort of place; the
a staggering variety of modes, from 1-litre caraffa (carafe) will always menu was often scrawled on a
short and sharp (un caffè) to long and be at the very least drinkable. blackboard, and there were sheets of
milky (latte macchiato). An espresso In cities and major towns, credit newsprint to cover the tables and on
diluted with hot water to make it cards are widely accepted – less so which to write the bill. An osteria was
resemble American filter coffee is an in smaller places and in the country, an unpretentious country or city
Americano; an espresso with a blob where it is advisable to carry cash. hostelry, offering a few cold cuts of
of frothy milk is a caffè macchiato. Tax and service must be included meat with some cheese, and maybe
Italians wouldn’t dream of having a in the bill by law, and a small cover a simple pasta dish to accompany a
frothy cappucino at any time of day charge (coperto) is usually added. glass of the local wine. However, that
other than breakfast. In summer, there Tipping is becoming more common; has all changed, and these days the
is usually iced coffee – caffè freddo. 10 per cent is usual in smarter or choice of name for an establishment
The main meal is lunch, normally more touristy places. depends more on the tradition the
served in restaurants from noon Italians rarely dress down, so place identifies with than price, decor
until 2pm, though in summer resorts dressing fairly smartly will generally or ambience. Ristorante is now a
you’ll find a few restaurants that keep fit the bill. Men – like women – will be neutral, generic term that could apply
their kitchens open right through to expected to wear tops during meals, to anything from a Michelin-starred
dinner, which is usually served from even at beachside places. Only in gem to a seaside joint where mass-
7:30–10:30pm. Most restaurants are the most exclusive restaurants is dress catering is the order of the day; and
closed one day a week and display formal, and men required to wear a although there are trattorie and osterie
their giorno di chiusura (closed day) in tie and jacket. Children are welcome that have existed for half a century,
the window, although in the summer, in restaurants, even late at night. today the terms might as easily
many open seven days a week. apply to the best restaurant in town.
Meals begin with an antipasto, Ristoranti, Trattorie, Osterie “Trattoria” often implies an interest in
or starter, followed by the primo, These are the three main types of reviving and reinventing traditional
or first course – most commonly restaurants in Italy, and until some dishes; whereas “osteria” tends to
pasta, risotto or, in winter, a minestra years ago they were quite distinct. suggest an emphasis on sourcing
(hearty soup). The secondo is the meat A ristorante was a “proper” restaurant, the very best primary ingredients
and fish course, with the contorno with linen tablecloths and waiters and wines, as promoted, for instance,
(vegetables or salad) usually served in uniform. A trattoria was usually a by the Slow Food movement.





















024-025_Back_Roads_Northern_Italy.indd 24 21/09/17 11:19 am

Where to Eat 25












Left Restaurant table in the Parco Naturale del Monte San Bartolo Right Caffè degli Specchi on Piazza dell Unita d’Italia, Trieste
Pizzerias Picnics DIRECTORY
Pizzerias are found throughout Italy, There is no better excuse for sampling
but contrary to popular myth, it local produce than a picnic. With PRICE CATEGORIES
is only too easy to find doughy, that end in view, you will need to find
substandard pizza. You have more a delicatessen (alimentari) where you The following price bands are based
on a three-course meal for one,
chance of striking gold if you go to can buy delicacies such as rosemary- including a half-bottle of house wine,
a pizzeria with a wood-burning oven spiked hams, mature gorgonzola, cover charge, tax and service:
(forno a legna), from which the pizzas speck and olives; a bakery (il forno); inexpensive – under €25
should emerge bubbling, scorched and a greengrocer (fruttivendolo) moderate – €25–€45
and blistered. Pizzerias are almost or market (mercato) packed with expensive – over €45
always informal places, and pizza is seasonal fruits and vegetables.
usually only served in the evening Along with stall upon stall of the
(as it takes hours to get the oven hot freshest fruit and vegetables, weekly
enough). The classic accompaniment markets also bring together local
to pizza is a cold draught beer. smallholders offering such things as
home-cured cheeses and salamis.
Cafés and Bars There are often stalls with specialities
At one end of the spectrum are grand from the south of Italy too – capers,
cafés with chandelier-lit interiors and sun-dried tomatoes, mozzarella di
terraces fringing some of the most bufala and spicy salami – which add
spectacular piazzas in Italy; at the other, an exotic touch. Less romantically,
modest local bars with 1980s colour Italian supermarkets, including
schemes, steaming coffee machines chains like Esselunga and Coop, stock
and dusty plastic flowers. These very good-quality fresh produce as
unpretentious neighbourhood bars well as freshly baked bread.
often have standing-room only and are Mountain regions often have
places to come for breakfast, a quick picnic areas with massive outside
toasted sandwich or a swift shot of grills – a great way of sampling a Below far left Black truffles at the
coffee. Some have a few tables outside Chiavenna steak or a freshly caught Sansepolcro market Below left Fruits on a
for a more leisurely breakfast or aperitif, red mullet. Around the lakes you will Bolzano market stall Below middle Al fresco
though you should find time at least find free beaches (spiaggia pubblica) dining in Orvieto Below middle right
once on your trip to dawdle over a where you can settle on a grassy Subterranean wine vault, Canonica a Cerreto,
Campari soda and olives in a traditional patch by the lakeside and enjoy Chianti Below Display at a bakery and bar
pavement café watching life pass by. your carefully chosen delights. in San Casciano dei Bagni





















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BRNI_026-027_Drv_Opnr.indd 26 27/10/11 5:45 PM
Back Roads LAYERS PRINTED:
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Date 02 November 2009
Size 145mm x 217mm
Font Myriad Pro

the

drives






















































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BRNI_028-029_OpnDrv1.indd 28 04/11/11 5:03 PM
Back Roads LAYERS PRINTED:
Section opener template “UK” LAYER
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Date 18th June 2008
Size 145mm x 217mm
Font Myriad Pro

DRIVE 1





Milan
Venice
IT AL Y
Genoa Bologna
Florence
Perugia
Rome



In the Shadow

of the Alps


Turin to

Castello di

Rivoli


Highlights

• Royal Turin
Admire the sweeping boulevards,
elegant hunting lodges and pleasure
palaces of this aristocratic city
• Gourmet Piedmont
Taste the region’s famous mushrooms
and truffles and sample the rich,
French-influenced cuisine
• Strategic mountain passes
Walk in the footsteps of some of
history’s greatest armies – Hannibal,
Augustus and Napoleon all marched
through the Alps near Aosta
• Paradise park
Explore Italy’s first national park, the
Parco Nazionale del Gran Paradiso,
and see ibex, chamois, marmots
and magnificent golden eagles


Spectacular view of the valley from the
Col de l’Iseran




BRNI_028-029_OpnDrv1.indd 29 04/11/11 5:03 PM

30 BACK ROADS nORThERn AnD CEnTRAl ITAly

In the Shadow of the Alps

The rolling hillsides around Turin produce some of the world’s most
delectable wines and prized gourmet delicacies, such as white truffle
and various kinds of cheese. Encircled by palaces and former hunting
Grand Combin
lodges and set against the amphitheatre of the snow-capped Alps, Aiguille du Midi Ferr Ferretet Grand Combin
4314m
4314m
Aiguille du Midi
3842m
Turin is well-endowed with beautiful architecture and cutting-edge 3842m Arnouv La L La Lechereechere
Arnouvazaz
Valpelline
design. The tour then passes through the dramatic landscape of Col. del Gr Valpelline
Col. del Granan
S. Bernardonardo
S. Ber
Bca di Luseneyy
the Valle d’Aosta and the Gran Paradiso – the highest mountain Monte Bianco Entr Entrèvesèves Valpelline Bca di Lusene
Monte Bianco
3504m
3504m
Valpelline
4807m
4807m
COURMAYEURAYEUR
entirely within Italy – to the spectacular Monte Bianco (Mont COURM VALLE D’AOST
VALLE D’AOSTAA
Gignod
Blanc), Europe’s loftiest peak, and to the towns at her feet. PRÉ SAINT DIDIER Mor Morgexgex Gignod Praz Praz
PRÉ SAINT DIDIER
AOSTAA
AOST
Chambaveve
Colle d. Picc. Picc.
Colle d. La T La Thuilehuile Sarre Sarre Nus Nus Chamba
S. Ber S. Bernardonardo
Val di Grisenche
Val di Grisenche Viey Vieyeses 3559m 3006m Verr Verrèsès Piedica
FÉNIS Champdepraz
M. P M. Paramontaramont Introd Pila Pila FÉNIS Champdepraz
Introd
3300m M.Emilius
3300m
M.Emilius
M. Avic
3559m M. Avic
Rhêmes- Val di Rhêmes
3006m
Piedicavallovallo
Issime
ISSOGNE
Surier
Ste- Ste-Foy-Foy- Surier Val di Rhêmes ISSOGNE Issime Trive Triveroro
Taren Tarentaisetaise COGNE Champorcher Bard Bard
COGNE Champorcher
Rhêmes- Pon Pont-St-t-St- Oropa
Oropa
Valle
Valnonteytey
Notr Notre-Damee-Dame Valnon Mar Martintin Mosso Valle
Mosso
Settimo
Campiglia Settimo
Campiglia
BIELLA
Piampratoato
Grande Sassièr Pon Pontt Soana Piampr Vittone BIELLA Cossa
Vittone
Grande Sassièree
Soana
Cossatoto
3757m d e l G r a n P a r a d i s o
3757m
Tignes
Tignes Gran P Forz Forzoo
Gran Paradisoaradiso
Pa r c o N a z i o n a l e
Val Val 4061m Borgofr
Pa r c o N a z i o n a l e
4061m
Borgofrancoanco
Candelo
d’Isèr d’Isèree Ronc Ronco Canaveseo Canavese d’Ivr d’Ivreaea Candelo
d e l G r a n P a r a d i s o
Mongrandorando
Ceresole Mong Verr Verroneone
Ceresole
Lessolo
Grande Motte Col de Reale Reale Lessolo
Grande Motte
Col de
3656m
3656m l’Iser l’Iseranan Pon Pontt Ivrea Ivrea
Locana
M. Unghiasse Locana Cana Canavesevese
M. Unghiasse
FRANCE
FRANCE 2939m Va l l e d i L o c a n a Salussola
2939m
Salussola
Va l l e d i L o c a n a
Bonnevalal
Bonnev Viver Viveroneone Elvo Elvo
Forno
Forno Cuor Cuorgnègnè
Cavaglià
Alpi Graieaie
Alpi Gr Chialamber Agliè Agliè Strambino Cavaglià
Strambino
Chialambertoto
Lanslevillar Balme Céres Céres Corio Corio Busano Rivar Rivaroloolo Álice C San Santhiàthià
Lanslevillardd
Busano
Balme
Álice Castelloastello
Val di Al a
Val di Al a Cana Canavesevese
COL DU MONT CENIS Verc Vercellielli
COL DU MONT CENIS
Lanz Lanzo Torineseo Torinese Cigliano
Cigliano
Felett Felettoo Caluso Livor Livornono
Caluso
Lac du Viù Viù Germag Ferr Ferrárisáris
Lac du
Germagnanonano
Canale Cavour
Mont Mont Mar Margonegone Ciriè Ciriè
Cenis Cenis Val di Vi ù Mon Montanarotanaro
Val di Vi ù
Above Driving cows along the winding road from La Thuile to Col du Mont Cenis, see p36 Fiano Fiano Lombar Rondissone Canale Cavour
Rondissone
Lombardoredore
PIEMONTE Volpiano Salugg
PIEMONTE
Volpiano
Saluggiaia
Bussoleno
Bussoleno
Crescentinoentino
Caselle
0 kilometres 20 Borgone Susa Val d Val d.. Caselle Cresc
Borgone Susa
Torinese Séttimo
SUSA Torr Torree Torinese Séttimo Chiv Chivassoasso
Tor.
Tor.
Almese
0 miles 20 SUSA Valle d i S usa Almese Po Po
EXILLES Pianezza
EXILLES
Pianezza
Valle d i S usa
Brusascoo
Avigliana Gassino T Brusasc
Gassino Torineseorinese
Avigliana
Rivoli
ACTIVITIES Sauz Sauzee Fenestr Forno Rivoli BASILIC Broz Brozoloolo
Fenestrelleelle
d’Oulx
d’Oulx
BASILICA DI SUPERGAA DI SUPERGA
Forno
Giav Giavenoeno CASTELL
CASTELLOO
TORINO
Va l l e d e l
Va l l e d e l
DI RIVOLI
Ride up to the top of Turin’s iconic Mole C h i s o n e DI RIVOLI Orbassano TORINO Gallar
C h i s o n e
TURIN
TURIN
Gallaretoeto
Orbassano
Antonelliana to view the towering mountains Piossasc Moncalier Cast Castelnuovoelnuovo
Piossascoo
Moncalierii
Don B
Don Boscoosco
backing the city Cumiana Chier
Chierii
Cumiana
Below Stunning green farmland in the Valle PALAZZINA
PALAZZINA
Discover a wilderness paradise in Italy’s first d’Aosta, see pp34–5 DI C DI CACCIAACCIA
DI STUPINIGI
national park, the Gran Paradiso DI STUPINIGI Sán Sántenatena
Airasca
Airasca Po Po
Hike in the mountains and then take a chairlift or Carig Carignanonano Villa- Villa-
stellone
stellone
cable car from Courmayeur or la Thuile up to the
highest peaks in Europe
Take the healthy waters in the thermal spa town
of Pré-Saint-Didier
Follow in the footsteps of hannibal and his
elephants on the border between Italy and France
BRNI_030-031_ItinDrv1.indd 30 02/09/14 2:10 PM

DRIVE 1: In the Shadow of the Alps 31

PLAN YOUR DRIVE

Start/finish: Turin to Castello di Rivoli.
Number of days: 3–4, allowing half
a day to explore Turin.
Grand Combin
Grand Combin
Ferr Ferretet 4314m
4314m
Aiguille du Midi Distance: 470 km (292 miles).
Aiguille du Midi
3842m
3842m Arnouv La L La Lechereechere
Arnouvazaz
Valpelline
Col. del Gr Road conditions: Generally well
Col. del Granan
S. Ber S. Bernardonardo Valpelline
Bca di Luseneyy
Monte Bianco
Monte Bianco Entr Entrèvesèves Bca di Lusene paved and signposted, but there is
3504m
3504m
Valpelline
4807m
4807m Valpelline
COURM VALLE D’AOST steep terrain in the Valle d’Aosta,
COURMAYEURAYEUR
VALLE D’AOSTAA
Gignod
Gignod Above Remains of an aqueduct, part of the which is often snowbound in winter;
PRÉ SAINT DIDIER
PRÉ SAINT DIDIER Mor Morgexgex Praz Praz remarkable Roman ruins at Susa, see p37 drivers are required to have winter tyres
AOST fitted and carry snow chains Oct–Jun.
AOSTAA
Chambaveve
Colle d. Picc. Picc.
Colle d. La T La Thuilehuile Sarre Sarre Nus Nus Chamba
S. Ber S. Bernardonardo When to go: Roads in the Alps are
Val di Grisenche Viey Vieyeses 3559m 3006m Verr Verrèsès Piedica and Col du Mont Cenis are closed dur-
Val di Grisenche
FÉNIS Champdepraz
M. P M. Paramontaramont Introd Pila Pila FÉNIS Champdepraz very dangerous in the winter. Stretches
Introd
3300m
3300m M.Emilius of the route between Pré-Saint-Didier
M.Emilius
M. Avic
3559m M. Avic
Rhêmes- Val di Rhêmes
3006m
Piedicavallovallo
Issime
ISSOGNE
high snowfall. The best time to do this
Surier
Ste- Ste-Foy-Foy- Surier Val di Rhêmes ISSOGNE Issime Trive Triveroro ing the winter months, when there is
COGNE Champorcher
Taren Tarentaisetaise COGNE Champorcher Bard Bard
Rhêmes- Pon Pont-St-t-St- Oropa drive is between June and October.
Oropa
Valle
Valnonteytey
Notr Notre-Damee-Dame Valnon Mar Martintin Mosso Valle
Mosso
Campiglia
Campiglia Settimo Opening times: Shops tend to open
Settimo
BIELLA
Piampratoato
Grande Sassièr Pon Pontt Soana Piampr Vittone BIELLA Cossa Mon–Sat 9am–1pm and 4–7:30 or 8pm.
Soana
Grande Sassièree
Vittone
Cossatoto
3757m
3757m d e l G r a n P a r a d i s o
Tignes
Tignes Gran P Forz Forzoo Some shops are shut on Mon morn-
Gran Paradisoaradiso
Val Val 4061m Borgofr
Pa r c o N a z i o n a l e
Pa r c o N a z i o n a l e
4061m
Borgofrancoanco
Candelo
d’Isèr d’Isèree Ronc Ronco Canaveseo Canavese d’Ivr d’Ivreaea Candelo ings or Wed afternoons, but city super-
d e l G r a n P a r a d i s o
Mongrandorando
Ceresole Mong Verr Verroneone markets often stay open for the siesta.
Ceresole
Lessolo
Grande Motte Col de Reale Reale Lessolo
Grande Motte
Col de
3656m
3656m l’Iser l’Iseranan Pon Pontt Ivrea Ivrea Churches and museums are usually
Locana
M. Unghiasse Locana Cana Canavesevese open 8 or 9am–noon and 4–7 or 8pm.
M. Unghiasse
FRANCE 2939m Va l l e d i L o c a n a Salussola Many museums are closed on Mondays.
FRANCE
Salussola
2939m
Va l l e d i L o c a n a
Bonnevalal
Bonnev Viver Viveroneone Elvo Elvo
Forno
Forno Cuor Cuorgnègnè
Cavaglià
Alpi Gr Chialamber Agliè Agliè Strambino Cavaglià Main market days: Turin: Porta
Alpi Graieaie
Strambino
Chialambertoto
Lanslevillardd
Lanslevillar Balme Céres Céres Corio Corio Busano Rivar Rivaroloolo Álice C San Santhiàthià Palazzo, Mon–Fri mornings and all day
Balme
Busano
Álice Castelloastello
Val di Al a Cana Canavesevese Sat; Aosta: Piazza Cavalieri di Vittorio
Val di Al a
COL DU MONT CENIS Verc Vercellielli Veneto, Tue.
COL DU MONT CENIS
Lanz Lanzo Torineseo Torinese Cigliano
Cigliano
Felett Felettoo Caluso Livor Livornono
Caluso
Lac du Viù Viù Germag Ferr Ferrárisáris Shopping: Gourmet produce such
Lac du
Germagnanonano
Canale Cavour
Mont Mont Mar Margonegone Ciriè Ciriè
Cenis Cenis Val di Vi ù Mon Montanarotanaro as nougat, mushrooms and truffles,
Fiano Fiano Canale Cavour
Val di Vi ù
Rondissone
Lombardoredore
Lombar Rondissone cheese made from mountain milk
PIEMONTE Volpiano Salugg and, of course, wine. Other good buys
PIEMONTE
Volpiano
Saluggiaia
Bussoleno
Bussoleno Cresc include textiles in Biella and cuckoo
Crescentinoentino
Caselle
Borgone Susa
Borgone Susa Val d Val d.. Torree Caselle Séttimo Chiv Chivassoasso clocks in Aosta and the mountain areas.
Torinese Séttimo
Torr
SUSA Almese Torinese Tor. Tor. Po Po
Almese
Pianezza
EXILLES
EXILLES SUSA Valle d i S usa Pianezza Major festivals: Turin: Cultural
Valle d i S usa
Brusascoo
Avigliana
Gassino Torineseorinese
Avigliana Gassino T Brusasc
Rivoli
Sauz Sauzee Rivoli heritage week, Apr; Turin book fair,
Fenestrelleelle
d’Oulx Fenestr Forno BASILIC Broz Brozoloolo mid-May; Classical music festival, Sep;
d’Oulx
BASILICA DI SUPERGAA DI SUPERGA
Forno
CASTELLOO
Giav Giavenoeno CASTELL Slow Food fair, Oct (biannually); Luci
TORINO
Va l l e d e l
Va l l e d e l
DI RIVOLI TORINO
DI RIVOLI
C h i s o n e
C h i s o n e
TURIN
Gallaretoeto
Orbassano TURIN Gallar d’Artista illuminations, Nov–Jan.
Orbassano
Piossascoo
Piossasc Moncalier Cast Castelnuovoelnuovo
Moncalierii
Don Boscoosco
Don B
Cumiana
Chierii
Cumiana Chier
PALAZZINA
PALAZZINA DAY TRIP OPTIONS
DI C DI CACCIAACCIA
DI STUPINIGI
DI STUPINIGI Those interested in architecture will
Airasca
Airasca Po Po Sán Sántenatena find a host of buildings to explore
Carig Carignanonano Villa- Villa-
stellone in Turin with the works of Baroque
stellone
architect Juvarra, and impressive
museums and churches. Outdoor
enthusiasts can take the mountain
air in historic Aosta. See the fantastic
Key castle at Fénis and enjoy the natural
Drive route glory of the Parco Nazionale del Gran
Paradiso. For full details, see p37.
BRNI_030-031_ItinDrv1.indd 31 02/09/14 2:10 PM

32 BACK ROADS NORTHERN AND CENTRAL ITALY

VISITING TURIN
1 Palazzina di Caccia di (Museum of History, Art and Interior
Parking Stupinigi Design) (closed Mon) displays exquisite
Parking is difficult and it is best to use an Piazza Principe Amedeo 7, Torino; 10042 frescoes, chandeliers and marquetry.
underground car park – try the ones at Set in huge grounds with roaming The Saletta degli Specchi (Hall of
Piazza Vittorio Veneto or Piazza Castello.
deer, this palatial, Rococo-style hunt- Mirrors) holds a marble bath owned
Visitor Information ing lodge belonged to the Savoys – by Napoleon’s sister, Paolina Borghese.
Piazza Castello/Via Garibaldi, 10100; a rich family from the Swiss Alps ª Head northeast on the SS23/Viale
011 535 181; www.turismotorino.org
who went on to rule Italy. Its Museo Torino. Follow Corso Unione Sovietica
Cable car to Basilica di Superga di Storia, Arte e Ammobiliamento to “centro”. Park under Piazza Vittorio.
Departs every hour from Sassi station
in the Piazza Modena (Tram No.15).
WHERE TO STAY IN TURIN 2 Turin
Torino, Piedmont; 10100
Hotel Victoria expensive With the Alps as a glorious backdrop, Turin (Torino) has squares, castles,
Close to Via Roma and Piazza San Carlo,
this resembles an English country house palaces and boulevards fit for a king. Indeed, it was the first capital
and has a garden for al fresco meals. of the Kingdom of Italy (1861). Today, it is the country’s design and
Via Nino Costa 4, 10123; 011 561 1909; contemporary art capital. And, for a taste of the dolce vita, Turin is
www.hotelvictoria-torino.com
a gourmet paradise and the birthplace of Italian cinema.
Des Artistes moderate
Centrally located near the Piazza Vittorio
Veneto, this “boho chic” hotel has just 22 A three-hour walking tour of cinema with props and classic film
pleasant and well-appointed rooms and From Piazza Vittorio Veneto, clips, including the car chase in The
offers good, professional service.
Via Principe Amedeo 21, 10123; 011 812 walk up the Via Po to the Italian Job. Take the glass lift to
4416; www.desartisteshotel.it town centre. Turn right into the viewing platform on the
Via Montebello to reach spire for fabulous views of the
Le Meridien Art + Tech expensive
Away from the centre in Lingotto (the the unmissable Mole city and the Alps. Next, turn
old Fiat factory designed by Renzo Antonelliana 1. Topped right and then left into the
Piano), this hotel has minimalist airy by a 167-m (550-ft) spire, wide Corso San Maurizio and
rooms, glass walls and large bathrooms. this edifice is a symbol of left into the Giardino Reale.
Via Nizza 230, 10126; 011 664 2000; the city and home to the Continue through the park
www.starwoodhotels.com/lemeridien
excellent Museo Nazionale Madonna and child, to the far corner and the
Below (clockwise from top left) The grand del Cinema (closed Tue). The Palazzo Madama Baroque Palazzo Reale 2
Piazza San Carlo; the Roman Palatine Gate; Italian film industry was (closed Mon), once the official
former bedroom in the Palazzo Madama; born in Turin, which was also the film Savoy residence. The opulent interior
exterior of the Palazzo Madama in the Piazza production capital of the world (1906– is graced with chinoiserie, gold, vel-
Castello; dome of the Chiesa di San Lorenzo 16). The museum re-creates the story vet and tapestries. Next door is the





























032-037_Back_Roads_Northern_Italy.indd 32 21/09/17 11:16 am

DRIVE 1: In the Shadow of the Alps 33


PIAZZA 0 metres 250
DELLA CORSO REGINA MARGHERITA
REPUBBLICA
0 yards 250
PIAZZA
AUGUSTA Palazzo
Reale
VIA MILANO San Lorenzo Giardino C
VIA BELLEZIA
Reale
Chiesa di
VIA S. FRANCESCO D'ASSISI Quadrilatero VIA ROMA CARIGNANO PIAZZA VIA PO VIA PO VIA VANCHIGLIA
VIA MONTEBELLO
VIA ACCADEMIA ALBERTINA VIA ROSSINI ORSO SAN MAURIZIO
PIAZZA
CASTELLO
Museo Civica
Mole Antonelliana
d’Arte Antica
and Museo Nazionale
del Cinema
PIAZZA
VIA DELL'ARSENALE VIA S. TOMMASO
CARLO
ALBERTO
PIAZZA
EMANUELE II
SAN
Above Elegant colonnaded walkway along PIAZZA Museo Egizio PIAZZA CARLO VITTORIO VENETO
CARLO
Via Roma, Turin SOLFERINO VIA ALFIERI
PIAZZA
Piazza Castello, site of the Palazzo VIA BROFFERIO VIA XX SETTEMBRE PIAZZA VIA GIOLITTI
Madama, which houses the Museo VIA ROMA C. BALBO VIA SAN MASSIMO CAVOUR CORSO CAIROLI River Po
PIAZZA
VIA CAVOUR
Civica d’Arte Antica 3 (closed Tue). AIUOLA VIA DELLA ROCCA
PIAZZA
High lights here include Roman foun- PIAZZA CARLO BODONI
FELICE
dations in the basement, architect
Filippo Juvarra’s sinuous staircase and
atrium, and The Portrait of a Man by mausoleum (closed Wed) bears the EAT AND DRINK IN TURIN
Antonello da Messina (1476). Two of tombs of over 62 members of the L’Osteria del Corso inexpensive
Turin’s most atmospheric cafés are in Savoy family and has a cloister with Simple, good family-run fish place.
the piazza – Mulassano and Baratti & an Italian style garden. Duke Vittorio Great value lunch buffet.
Milano. On the western corner of the Amedeo engaged Juvarra to build Corso Regina Margherita 252/b, 10144;
piazza is the Chiesa di San Lorenzo 4 the basilica in 1717 after defeating an 011 480 665; closed Sun
(open daily). The interior of this church invading French army in 1706. The C’era Una Volta moderate
is a Baroque fantasy of marble, stuc- funicular ride from Sassi station (just Welcoming restaurant offering regional
specialities and an excellent menu
co and gilding. It also has a replica of below) up to the basilica is always degustazione. Corso Vittorio
the Sindone di Torino (Turin Shroud), popular with children. A large plaque Emanuele ll 41, 10125; 011 655 498;
believed to be the sheet in which in the grounds commemorates the www.ristoranteceraunavolta.it
Christ’s body was wrapped. Walk west tragic loss of the Grande Torino foot- Ristorante del Cambio expensive
from the piazza to the Quadrilatero ball team, whose plane crashed into Turin’s most famous restaurant serves
5 – the gridded area that recalls the the hillside in 1949. authentic bollito misto – a mix of
cooked meats. Booking essential.
old Roman settlement. The cobbled ª Head west to pick up SS11 then Piazza Carignano 2, 10123; 011 546
streets are full of bars, cafés, markets SP45. Take SS593 and after Alice 690; www.delcambio.it; closed Mon &
and churches. Return to Piazza Castello take SR143 to Biella. Sun eve
Castello and walk down Via Roma
and, near Piazza San Carlo, turn right
into Via Accademia delle Scienze and
the Museo Egizio 6 (Egyptian Museum:
Closes early Mon). The collection
includes papyri, a black statue of
Ramses ll (13th century BC), sarcoph-
agi and the tomb of Kha and Merit
(c.1430 BC), complete with vases of
food and unguents for the afterlife.
ª From Piazza Vittorio Veneto, cross
Ponte Vittorio Emanuele l and follow
brown signs for Superga. Turn left on
to Corso Casale, right at Strada
Comunale di Superga, left at Piazzale
Alberto Geisser and on to Superga.
3 Basilica di Superga
Torino, Piedmont; 10020
Spectacularly perched on a hill and
visible for miles around, this grand Above The Basilica di Superga, built to commemorate the liberation of Turin from the French
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€45; expensive, over €45
032-037_Back_Roads_Northern_Italy.indd 33 21/09/17 12:33 pm

34 BACK ROADS NORTHERN AND CENTRAL ITALY


4 Biella bogs are home to many flower species,
Biella, Piedmont; 13900 which attract clouds of butterflies.
At the heart of “Textile Valley”, Biella ª Go north, signposted Champdepraz,
is famous as a major centre for high- turn right at SR6, left at SS26 towards
quality wool and yarn production, Aosta and follow signs to Fénis.
and Italian designer names such as
Zegna and Loro Piana have close Piedmontese fare
links with the town. More than 50 Local cuisine matches robust flavours
factory outlets line the industrial with French flair, reflecting the area’s
approach roads – many of which are relationship with the House of Savoy.
on the SS230 – look for spaccio on The woods, especially near Alba, are
signs, meaning “outlets”. There are truffle- and mushroom-rich and any
also outlets in Biella (see right). The dish with salsa di tartufi bianchi will
town has a compact, attractive be delicious. Bagna cauda is a warm
dip made with oil, anchovies, garlic
centre and highlights include the and cream. Blue gorgonzola is the
Renaissance basilica and cloister of best-known cheese – dolce (creamy)
St Sebastian, with lovely frescoes or piccante (crumbly). Look for soft
inside. A funicular goes up to the cheeses, too, such as caprino (goat),
beautiful medieval village of Piazzo. fontina (cow), and raschera (a com-
ª Head southwest, then take the bination of cow’s and either goat’s
SS338/Via Ivrea and turn right on or sheep’s milk). Fondue (fonduta) is
often made with fontina – delicious
the SS419. Fork right on SP73, then with Alba’s white truffles.
the SP72 to the SS26 before turning
Above The fortress Il Melograno, Issogne, off on to the SR4 to Issogne.
originally built in 1480 6 Fénis
5 Issogne Aosta, Valle d’Aosta; 11020
Aosta, Valle d’Aosta; 11020 The most famous and spectacular
The Valle d’Aosta is full of castles and of all the castles in the Valle d’Aosta
medieval forts. Many were fort resses, is the Castello di Fénis (Apr–Sep, open
while others were more palatial, such daily; Oct–Mar: open Tue–Sun). Set on
as Il Melograno (closed Wed). More a grassy knoll, backed by a chestnut
château than fort, it is named for the forest, it is every inch a fairytale
WHERE TO STAY fountain in the court yard, which has a medieval castle, bristling with towers
pomegranate tree (il melograno) of and turrets, keeps and crenellations.
AOSTA iron. Restored over the years, the Its origins date to the 13th century,
Duca D’Aosta moderate palace has frescoes of 15th-century but what is visible today is largely
Set in the heart of the old town, this street life, along with period furniture the 1340 creation of Aimone de
comfortable hotel albergo is both
elegant and welcoming. Its 63 rooms and arti facts. Nearby, the village Challant, who belonged to a noble
are decorated to a high standard and Champdepraz (just north on the A5) family linked to the Savoys. The castle
there is a pleasant restaurant. is the access point for the Parco has a pentagonal layout and the
Piazza Narbonne 8, 11100; 0165 23 63 Naturale del Mont Avic (Apr–Sep: open keep is enclosed by a double
63; www.alpissima.it
daily; Oct–Mar: closed Mon; www.montavic. perimeter wall, with watchtowers
AROUND AOSTA it), whose lakes, marshes and Alpine linked by a walkway. The inner
Agriturismo l’Arc en Ciel inexpensive
This working farm has five pleasingly
furnished rooms. Home-grown
produce is served in the fine restaurant.
Extremely good value. Frazione Vert 5,
Sarre, 11010 (leave Aosta on Via des
Régions and follow signs to Frazione
Vert, 7 km/4 miles west); 0165 25 78 43;
www.agriturismolarcenciel.it
COGNE
La Madonnina del Gran Paradiso
inexpensive–moderate
A family-run, welcoming hotel set in a
panoramic position on the
mountainside with its own spa. Its 30
rooms are clad in pine and there is a
warming, wood-burning oven in the
restaurant. Via Laydetré 7, 11012; 0165
740 78; www.lamadonnina.com Above The remarkably well-preserved Castello di Fénis, watching over the Valle d’Aosta
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €100; moderate, €100–200; expensive, over €200


032-037_Back_Roads_Northern_Italy.indd 34 06/10/17 2:59 pm

DRIVE 1: In the Shadow of the Alps 35


courtyard has a semi-circular staircase
and wooden balcony, decorated with
exquisite frescoes of St George killing
the dragon and a group of wise men
and prophets holding scrolls. There
is also a small museum of local
furniture inside.
ª Take the SR13, then turn left on to
the SS26 west to Aosta. There is a car
park at Piazza Arco d’Augusto.
7 Aosta
Aosta, Valle d’Aosta; 11100
Named after Emperor Augustus,
Aosta was once a mini-Rome in the
centre of its own valley; today it is
the regional capital. The triumphal Above left Near the Parco Nazionale del Gran
Arco d’Augusto now sits on a traffic ª Leave Aosta on the SS26 and Paradiso, Cogne Above Bikes – a favourite
island and from it runs the Roman Via bear left on to the SR47 heading way to explore Aosta’s national park
Sant’ Anselmo, a pedestrian precinct. south to Cogne.
To the right, outside the city walls, is EAT AND DRINK
an impressive series of ancient 8 Cogne
church buildings around the Aosta, Valle d’Aosta; 11012 AOSTA
Collegiata di Sant’Orso (open daily), This is an excellent base for exploring Vecchio Ristoro expensive
dedicated to the patron saint of Italy’s first national park, the beautiful This Michelin-starred restaurant is
Aosta. Sant’ Orso itself has a Gothic Parco Nazionale del Gran Paradiso. centrally located and combines rustic
(15th-century) façade, a 12th-century Originally a Savoy hunting reserve, charm with an elegant dining
experience. The chef, Alfio Fascendini,
Romanesque bell tower and an 21 sq km (5,200 acres) were donated is a master of innovation and seasonal
elegant cloister. At the end of the by King Vittorio Emanuele lll in 1929 specialities such as wild mushrooms.
Via Sant’Anselmo, where all kinds of to form the present park. Today, it Via Tourneuve 4, 11100; 0165 33 238;
souvenirs can be purchased – from is home to the endangered ibex, www.ristorantevecchioristoro.it; closed
cuckoo clocks to local gourmet as well as to numerous chamois, Sun, Mon lunch & Jun
delights – is the Porta Praetoria, the marmots, ptarmigans and golden COGNE
two thick, arched walls forming the eagles. Maps of the footpaths and Lou Ressignon
impressive stone entrance to the city. routes are available from the visitor moderate
Inside, on the right, lie the remains of information centre (Via Bourgeois 34, Well-established family-run inn
a Roman theatre. Just to the north, 11012; 0165 740 40). A path meanders specializing in authentic Valdostano
specialities. At weekends, music
accessed through the Convento di south to Valnontey, where the complements feasting. Also has rooms.
San Giuseppe, is the Amphitheatre Giardino Alpino Paradisia (1st Sat Rue des Mines 22, 11012; 0165 74 034;
(open daily). In the old town, the Jun–1st Sat Sep: open daily) has a fine www.louressignon.it; closed Mon eve &
Duomo in Piazza Giovanni XXlll dates collection of more than 1,000 species Tue in low season
from the 12th century and contains of Alpine flora. The best time to see Bar a Fromage moderate
some of the best Christian art these is from late-June to mid-July. Splendid little restaurant with a warm,
treasures from the area in the Museo ª Head northwest on SR47, then turn intimate atmosphere where cheese is
definitely king. Visitors can also buy
del Tesoro (open daily). Next to the left on to the SS26. This road becomes some excellent produce in the shop.
Duomo is the Roman Forum with a the Avenue du Géant (Champex) Rue Grand Paradis 21, 11012; 0165 74
supporting arcade (cryptoporticus). leading into Courmayeur. 96 96; reduced hours in low season
SHOPPING IN BIELLA
While there are many outlets just out-
side town, within Biella itself is Fratelli
Cerruti (Via Cernaia 40; closed Sun),
selling discounted men and women’s
classic clothes, and cashmere specialist
Piacenza (Via talia 32; closed Mon)
Far left Glorious Romanesque fresco in Aosta’s
cathedral Left A salumeria (delicatessen) full
of treats on Via Sant’Anselmo, Aosta




032-037_Back_Roads_Northern_Italy.indd 35 21/09/17 11:16 am

36 BACK ROADS NORTHERN AND CENTRAL ITALY


Nearby La Thuile (reached via the
SS26) was once a mining area and is
now a picturesque skiing and hiking
town, and more of a family resort
than chic Courmayeur. In summer
chairlifts allow access to heights of
2,400 m (7,900 ft) for some
spectacular walking and trekking.
ª Take the SS26, entering France on
the D1090. Turn on to the D84, then
take D902 past Val d’Isère, followed by
the D1006 to Col du Mont Cenis (use the
Above Climbers traversing an icy path in the Fréjus tunnel in winter).
mountains, Courmayeur Above right Museo 9 Courmayeur
Alpino Duca degli Abruzzi, Courmayeur Aosta, Valle d’Aosta; 11100 q Col du Mont Cenis
In the majestic shadow of Monte Lanslebourg-Mont-Cenis, 73480; France
Bianco (Mont Blanc), Courmayeur is a Col du Mont Cenis (Cenisio in Italian)
VISITING COURMAYEUR
popular year-round resort and a joy is a 2,084-m (6,831-ft) high mountain
Parking to explore. The main hub, Via Roma, pass in the Alps on the French-Italian
There is a large car park by the cable is traffic free and full of designer shops border. It was an important invasion
car to Plan Checrouit, on the southern and gourmet gems. The Museo route and Napoleon I built a road
edge of town. Alpino Duca degli Abruzzi (Piazza there in 1810. It is also believed by
Visitor Information Abbé Henry 2; 0165 842 064; closed Wed some to have been Hannibal’s pass
Piazzale Monte Bianco 8, 11100; 0165 morning) tells tales of dramatic moun- when he marched his army and
842 060; www.regione.vda.it/turismo tain rescues. Just north of Courmayeur elephants over the Alps against Rome
at Entrèves, a cable car leads to Punta during the Second Punic War (218–
Helbronner – at 3,462 m (11,360 ft), 203 BC). The picturesque Lac du Mont
WHERE TO STAY
the views are literally breathtaking. Cenis is frozen usually until the end
ª Take the SS26 to Pré-Saint-Didier. of May. The Jardin Alpin (open daily)
COURMAYEUR has more than 120 flower species.
Hotel Auberge de la Maison 0 Pré-Saint-Didier ª Take the D1006 south. Enter Italy on
moderate
Warm and welcoming, this homely Aosta, Valle d’Aosta; 07021 the SS25, then take the SS24 to Exilles.
mountain hotel and restaurant is At just over 1,000 m (3,280 ft) high,
rustically decorated. There are 33 the picturesque town Pré-Saint-Didier w Exilles
individually designed rooms, together is famous for its warm thermal waters. Torino, Piedmont; 10050
with a sauna, solarium and Turkish The spring is at a constant 36°C (98°F) Overlooking the Valle di Susa, the
baths. The restaurant is noted for its
excellent food and service. at the point where the River Thuile little medieval town Exilles is spec-
Via Passerin d’Entreves 16, 11013 (4 forces its way through the narrow tacularly located and dominated by
km/ 7 miles north of Courmayeur); gorge into the Dora Valley. There is a splendid fort. Exilles Fort (Via degli
0165 869 811; www.aubergemaison.it a well-known spa in the town, Terme Alpini; 0122 58270; closed Mon) is not only
Grand Hotel Royal e Golf expensive Pré-Saint-Didier (0165 867 272; open one of the oldest monuments in the
Set on the main street of Courmayeur, daily). The waters are said to have valley, but also a great example of
this prestigious hotel is noted for its detoxifying, toning and anti- military architecture. A fort has kept
charm and good service. There is a inflammatory properties. watch over this passage between
small wellness centre with swimming
pool and solarium and splendid views
of Monte Bianco. There is also a very
pleasant restaurant.
Via Roma 87, 11013; 0165 831 611;
www.hotelroyalegolf.com







Right Lac du Mont Cenis on a key invasion
route in Italian history Far right The Italian
skiing village of La Thuile
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €100; moderate, €100–200; expensive, over €200


032-037_Back_Roads_Northern_Italy.indd 36 21/09/17 11:16 am

DRIVE 1: In the Shadow of the Alps 37


France and Italy since the 12th
century, although what is visible today
is mainly from the 19th century. It is
said that from 1681–87, the “Man in
the Iron Mask”, a prisoner whose face
and identity remain a mystery to this
day, was incarcerated within these
walls. Many have theorized as to his
identity, most famously Alexandre
Dumas, who postulated that he was
Louis XIV’s identical twin. Highlights
include the Knights’ Courtyard and
the Staircase of Paradise leading to Above left The honeycomb façade of the
the Prison Courtyard. The fort’s r Castello di Rivoli 4th-century Porta Savoia, Susa Above The
museum charts its long history and Rivoli, Piedmont; 10098 fort of Exilles, strategically located in the Valle
the story of Italy’s Alpine troops. Set on a hill with splendid views, this di Susa Below In the Museo d’Arte
From the roof there are splendid castle was one of the Savoys’ country Contemporanea, Castello di Rivoli
views of the upper Valle di Susa. residences. It is an imposing Baroque
ª Head back northeast on the SS24. building bearing the classical French
trademark style of master architect
e Susa Filippo Juvarra. Inside, the Museo
Torino, Piedmont; 10059 d’Arte Contemporanea (closed Mon)
Known in Roman times as Segusium, has works by Gilbert and George and
Susa is a pretty mountain town with Jeff Koons, while Maurizio Cattelan’s
much evidence of its earlier existence. stuffed horse is suspended from the
In the old town, at Piazza Savoia, the ceiling – making a dramatic and
Porta Savoia gateway dates originally inspiring contrast between modern EAT AND DRINK
from the 4th century AD, although it and ancient. The museum often has
was reconstructed in the Middle Ages. excellent temporary exhibitions SUSA
There is also a Roman amphitheatre and there is a good café, as well Zizi
(open daily), aqueduct arches and the as the highly acclaimed cuboid This shop offers free tastings and
low-price local alcoholic beverages.
remains of some Roman baths. The Combal.zero restaurant. Established in 1945, it draws
remarkably well-preserved marble customers from all over the area.
triumphal Arco di Augusto (Arch Corso Inghilterra 52, 10059; 0122 622
of Augustus) was built in the 1st 717; www.zizi-susa.com; closed Sun
century BC by Gallic chieftain Cottius CASTELLO DI RIVOLI
to commemorate the alliance with Combal.zero expensive
the ruling Romans. In the medieval Michelin-starred restaurant in the
historic centre, the Romanesque Museo d’Arte Contemporanea,
Cattedrale di San Giusto (open daily), fea turing classic Piedmont dishes,
but with very creative twists –
dating from the 12th century, has a variant of molecular gastronomy
lovely frescoes and a fine campanile. – under the expert eye of chef
The town is noted, too, for its shops Davide Scabin. This is where
full of gourmet delights. traditional meets ultra-modern.
ª Head north, turn right on to SS25, Museo d’Arte Contemporanea,
Piazza Mafalda di Savoia, 10098;
signposted Avigliana, then Rivoli. 011 956 5225; www.combal.org;
Follow signs to car park at Castello. closed Mon & Sun
DAY TRIP OPTIONS Madama, as well as the other Art and castles in paradise
For visitors based in Turin, the first architectural and historical sights of Based in Aosta 7, take a trip to the
trip makes a good day out, while for the city. Then head out to the grand fairytale castle in Fénis 6. Next,
those based in Aosta, the amazing hunting lodge Palazzina di Caccia di head to Cogne 8 to visit the Parco
mountain scenery is easy to explore. Stupinigi 1 and the magnificent Nazionale del Gran Paradiso for an
Castello di Rivoli r – filled with invigorating walk among breath-
Baroque architecture tour thought-provoking modern art. taking scenery.
In Turin 2, see the beauty of the
work of the great Baroque architect Head south on the SS23 to Stupinigi. Aosta is located on the SS26. For Fénis,
Filippo Juvarra (1678–1736) in the Then take the E70 north (Tangenziale take the SS26 and SR13. To reach Cogne,
façade and staircase of the Palazzo Sud) turning left on to the SP7 to Castello. take the SS26 and then the SR47.

Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€45; expensive, over €45


032-037_Back_Roads_Northern_Italy.indd 37 21/09/17 11:16 am

BRNI_038-039_OpnDrv2.indd 38 27/10/11 5:46 PM
Back Roads LAYERS PRINTED:
Section opener template “UK” LAYER
(OpenType)
Date 02 November 2009
Size 145mm x 217mm
Font Myriad Pro

DRIVE 2





Milan
Turin Venice
IT AL Y
Genoa Bologna
Florence
Perugia
Rome



In the Land

of the Truffle


Barbaresco

to Cuneo




Highlights
• Kings of wine
Taste the nectar of the gods made
from the Barolo and Barbaresco
vineyards in the Langhe region
• Gourmet delights
Linger over your meal in Bra, the
home of Slow Food, and savour the
famous white truffle of Alba
• Mountain rides
Zig-zag up the mountain pass from
Sampeyre for spectacular views
• Valley pastures
Stroll along the lush, wooded Valle
Maira to the sound of sheep bells
• Timeless Saluzzo
Take a tour of mellow Saluzzo’s
historic core, through frescoed
Renaissance houses and palazzi


View of the wine-making town of
La Morra




BRNI_038-039_OpnDrv2.indd 39 27/10/11 5:46 PM

40 BACK ROADS NORTHERN AND CENTRAL ITALY

In the Land of the Truffle

Piedmont’s attractions are diverse. The vine-braided hills of the Langhe yield
velvety and elegant wines such as Barolo and Barbaresco – among Italy’s
most celebrated – while in the oak woods around Alba, keen-nosed hounds
sniff out valuable musky white truffles. Villages in the area are dotted with
fine restaurants (Bra was the birthplace of the Slow Food movement), which
make the most of the bounty of hazelnut and chestnut groves, fruit orchards
and mountain pastures. Castles and churches perch on hills; Occitan, the
ancient Romance language of troubadors, is still spoken in the Alpine
valleys; and the dramatic mountain scenery is never less than enthralling. Sommar
Sommarivaiva
Racc Racconigionigi
del B del Boscoosco Magliano Tánaro Tánaro
Magliano
Alfier Alfierii Castag
Castagnolenole
Sanfr Sanfrèè
Corneliano
Mur Murelloello Corneliano delle Lanz
delle Lanzee
Sommarivaiva
d’Alba
Cardè Maniga Sommar d’Alba
Cardè
Maniga
Perno
Cavallerleoneleone
KEY Torr Torree Cavaller Perno BARBARESCO Néiv Néivee
Pióbesi BARBARESCO
Coazzoloolo
San Giór Pocapáglia Pióbesi Coazz
San Giórgiogio
Pocapáglia
d’Alba
Drive route d’Alba
Ruffia Ruffia Busi Busi
la Colletta
Tre Stelleelle
Ostana la Colletta M. Br M. Braccoacco San San Varáita Cavallermaggiore BRA BRA Tre St
Ostana
Varáita Cavallermaggiore
1307m
1307m
Firmino
Trezzo Mango
Paesana
ALBA
Paesana Firmino Scar Scarnafiginafigi Monast Riva Riva ALBA Trezzo Mango
Monasteroloerolo
Pollenzoo
Oncino Envie Envie di Sa di Saviglianovigliano Pollenz Roddi Tinella
Roddi
Tinella
Oncino
Serre Serre Tánaro Tánaro Rivalta Gallo Gallo
Rivalta
Revello Rua Ruata Eandita Eandi Rigr Rigrassoasso
Revello
GRINZANE CAVOURAVOUR
Mar Mareneene GRINZANE C
Piàn Muné Cher Cherascoasco
Piàn Muné
SALUZZO
Colombaroo
V a l l e d e l P o
V a l l e d e l P o
Cerverere
Annunziatata
Cima delle Po Po SALUZZO Colombar Cerve Annunzia
Cima delle
LA MORRAA
SAVIGLIANO
Stura di Demonte
Lóbbie
Lóbbie T.ta di Rossi Rossi SAVIGLIANO LA MORR Mon Montelupotelupo
T.ta di
Castiglione Albese
Gambasca
3015m
Lagnascoo
Pon Pontechianaletechianale 3015m Gar Garitta Nuovaitta Nuova Gambasca Mar Martinianatiniana Lagnasc Castiglione Albese
Fallett
Fallettoo
2385m
2385m Po Po Man Mantata Verg Vergnene
PIEMONTE
BAROLOO
Gilba Sup..
Gilba Sup PIEMONTE Stura di Demonte BAROL
Cast Casteldelfinoeldelfino SAMPEY Verzuolo Falic Falicettoetto
SAMPEYRERE
Verzuolo
Bellino Isasca Máira Máira Monf Monforteorte
Bellino
Isasca
d’Alba
Genola
Frássino
Frássino Genola Nov Novelloello d’Alba
V a l l e V a r a i t a
Sant Sant’Anna’Anna V a l l e V a r a i t a Brossasco Piascoo Costigliole Monsola Salmour
Brossasco Piasc
Salmour LéquioLéquio
Costigliole Monsola
Varaita Roddino
Varaita
Roddino
Saluzzoo
Pelv Pelvo d’Elvao d’Elva Saluzz Tánar Tánaroo Monchier
Monchieroo
3065m Colle di Sampe Melle Melle
3065m
Colle di Sampeyreyre
Fossano
Levaldigii
2284m
2284m Villafallett Mellea Mellea Levaldig Fossano
Villafallettoo
Giàs Giàs ELV ELVAA Valmala Bene Bene
Valmala
Chesta
Goria Ugo
Trav Traversieraersiera Goria Ugo Chesta Vag Vagiennaienna Dogliani
Dogliani
Mellea
Cuc Cucchialeschiales Mellea San San
Sebastiano
Busca
San M Busca Sebastiano Trinità
San Micheleichele
Trinità
V a l l e M a i r a
Farigliano
Chiappera Vallone
Centallotallo
Chiappera Vallone V a l l e M a i r a Riser Riserva Naturaleva Naturale Taran Tarantascatasca Cen Mur Murazzoazzo Sant Sant’ Albano’ Albano Pioz Piozzozo Farigliano
Macraa
STROPPO Macr
STROPPO
Sturaa
Stur
Ciciu del V
Ciciu del Villarillar
Maira
San Damiano
Villar San
Prazz Prazzoo San Damiano Maira Villar San Roa Roatata Carrù Carrù
Macraa
Macr
Costanzoo
Costanz
ACCEGLIO
ACCEGLIO Canósio Már Mármoramora Chiusani
Chiusani
Canósio
Magliano
Chialvettaetta
DRONERO
Chialv DRONERO Prata Pratavecchiavecchia Villa Villatata Roa Roata Rossita Rossi Mon Montaneratanera Magliano Alpi
Alpi
Préit Préit Rca. Rca. Cernauda Cernauda
Prat Pratorotondoorotondo 2284m Mon Montemaletemale Passa Passatoretore Cast Castellettoelletto
2284m
Sturaa
Stur
M. Tibèr Pradlév di Cúneo Mor Morozzoozzo
M. Tibèrtt
Pradléveses
T. Grana
Caraglio
2647m
2647m di Cúneo Caraglio T. Grana
Cast Castelmagnoelmagno Grana Valg Valgranarana Mar Margaritagarita
Grana
Mon Monterossoterosso San R San Roccoocco CUNEO
CUNEO
Grana
ACTIVITIES M. Br M. Bramam Grana
2367m
2367m
Cerv Cervascaasca
Follow a wine trail in the Vignolo San R San Roccoocco Colla Colla Beinett
Beinettee
Vignolo
Castag
Castagnarettanaretta
Langhe wine region at La Morra
Gaiola Bove Bovess
Gaiola
Bor Borgogo
Hunt for truffles in the Aisone Demon S. Dalmazz Pever Peveragnoagno
S. Dalmazzoo
Aisone
Demontete
Moiola
truffle capital of Alba Moiola Rocca Rivóir Rivóiraa
Roccavionevione
Stura di Demonte
Valle Stura
Valle Stura Stura di Demonte
Indulge in gourmet food in the Colletto Robilante Va
Colletto
1304m
village or mountain restaurants 1304m Gesso Gesso
Valdierii
Valdier
Sant Sant’ Anna’ Anna Roáschia
Roáschia
Marvel at the 15th-century di Valdier Va l l e V e r m e n a g n a
di Valdierii
frescoes in the villages above Entr Entracqueacque Vernante
Robilante l l e V e r m
M. Matto
the Valle Maira and Valle Varaita M. Matto Vernante e n a g n a
3097m
3097m
TERME DI
Hike in the beautiful Parco delle Alpi TERME DI Tetti Suet
Tetti Suet
VALDIERI
Marittime near Terme di Valdieri VALDIERI Palanfr
Palanfrèè
Cima d. Argentera Argentera
Cima d.
Treat the body with healing waters 3297m San Giac
3297m
San Giacomoomo
at Terme di Valdieri M. Carbonè
M. Carbonè
2873m
2873m
LAGO DELLA
LAGO DELLA
ROVINA
ROVINA
040-041_Back_Roads_Northern_Italy.indd 40 06/11/17 5:27 pm
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DRIVE 2: In the Land of the Truffle 41

PLAN YOUR DRIVE

Start/finish: Barbaresco to Cuneo.
Number of days: 3–4, allowing for
a day in the Langhe region and a day
each for Valle Varaita and Valle Maira.
Distance: Approx 145 km (90 miles).
Road conditions: Roads are well-
surfaced, but not always numbered.
Rural routes are slow, winding and
popular with motor bikers and cyclists
Sommar
Sommarivaiva
Racc Racconigionigi at weekends. Mountain passes can be
del B del Boscoosco Magliano Tánaro Tánaro
Magliano
Alfier Alfierii Castag steep and mostly single track with few
Castagnolenole
Sanfr Sanfrèè
Corneliano
Mur Murelloello Corneliano delle Lanz passing places. Roads from Saluzzo
delle Lanzee
d’Alba
Sommarivaiva
Cardè
Cardè Maniga Sommar d’Alba
Maniga
Perno
Cavallerleoneleone
Torr Torree Cavaller Perno BARBARESCO Néiv Néivee onwards may be impassable from Oct–
Pióbesi BARBARESCO
Coazzoloolo
San Giórgiogio
San Giór Pocapáglia Pióbesi Coazz May/Jun; only attempt these roads with
Pocapáglia
d’Alba
d’Alba
Ruffia Ruffia Busi Busi snow chains, if experienced in driving in
la Colletta
Ostana la Colletta M. Br M. Braccoacco San San Varáita Cavallermaggiore BRA BRA Tre St snow. Late autumn sees fog throughout.
Ostana
Tre Stelleelle
Varáita Cavallermaggiore
1307m
1307m
Firmino
Trezzo Mango
Paesana Firmino Scar Scarnafiginafigi Monast Riva Riva ALBA Trezzo Mango
Paesana
ALBA
Monasteroloerolo
Pollenzoo
Tinella
Oncino Envie Envie di Sa di Saviglianovigliano Pollenz Roddi Tinella When to go: Spring and autumn are
Roddi
Oncino
Rivalta
Serre Serre Tánaro Tánaro Rivalta Gallo Gallo best for travelling and wine festivals. The
Revello
Revello Rua Ruata Eandita Eandi Rigr Rigrassoasso
GRINZANE CAVOURAVOUR
Mar Mareneene GRINZANE C woods are most colourful in autumn;
Piàn Muné
Piàn Muné Cher Cherascoasco
V a l l e d e l P o
Cerverere
V a l l e d e l P o
SALUZZO
Colombaroo
Annunziatata
Cima delle
Cima delle Po Po SALUZZO Colombar Cerve Annunzia October is white truffle time in Alba.
LA MORRAA
SAVIGLIANO
Stura di Demonte
Lóbbie T.ta di Rossi Rossi SAVIGLIANO LA MORR Mon Montelupotelupo
Lóbbie
T.ta di
Gambasca
Castiglione Albese
Lagnascoo
3015m
Pon Pontechianaletechianale 3015m Gar Garitta Nuovaitta Nuova Gambasca Mar Martinianatiniana Lagnasc Castiglione Albese Opening times: Shops tend to open
Fallett
Fallettoo
2385m
2385m Po Po Man Mantata Verg Vergnene
PIEMONTE
BAROLOO
Gilba Sup..
Gilba Sup PIEMONTE Stura di Demonte BAROL 9am–1pm and 4–7pm Mon–Sat, with
SAMPEYRERE
Cast Casteldelfinoeldelfino SAMPEY Verzuolo Falic Falicettoetto
Verzuolo
Bellino Isasca Máira Máira Monf Monforteorte some closing on Monday morning.
Bellino
Isasca
d’Alba
Genola
Frássino Genola Nov Novelloello d’Alba Churches are generally open 9am–
Frássino
V a l l e V a r a i t a
Sant Sant’Anna’Anna V a l l e V a r a i t a Brossasco Piascoo Costigliole Monsola Salmour
Brossasco Piasc
Salmour LéquioLéquio
Costigliole Monsola
Varaita Roddino noon and 4–7pm. Museums vary; those
Roddino
Varaita
Saluzzoo
Pelv Pelvo d’Elvao d’Elva Saluzz Tánar Tánaroo Monchier
Monchieroo
3065m Colle di Sampe Melle Melle in smaller places close in the week’s
3065m
Colle di Sampeyreyre
Levaldigii
Fossano
2284m Villafallett Mellea Mellea Levaldig Fossano
2284m
Villafallettoo
Giàs Giàs ELV ELVAA Valmala Bene Bene early part. Check ahead out of season.
Valmala
Goria Ugo
Chesta
Trav Traversieraersiera Goria Ugo Chesta Vag Vagiennaienna Dogliani
Dogliani
Mellea
Cuc Cucchialeschiales Mellea San San Main market days: Alba: truffle
Busca
Sebastiano
San M Busca Sebastiano Trinità market Sat (Oct–Dec); Bra: Wed;
San Micheleichele
Trinità
V a l l e M a i r a
Farigliano
Chiappera Vallone
Chiappera Vallone V a l l e M a i r a Riser Riserva Naturaleva Naturale Taran Cen Mur Murazzoazzo Sant Sant’ Albano’ Albano Pioz Piozzozo Farigliano 0 kilometres 10 Savigliano: Piazza Santa Rosa, Tue;
Tarantascatasca
Centallotallo
STROPPO Macr
Macraa
Stur
STROPPO
Sturaa
Ciciu del Villarillar
Ciciu del V
Maira
San Damiano
Villar San
Prazz Prazzoo San Damiano Maira Villar San Roa Roatata Carrù Carrù 0 miles 10 Cuneo: Piazza Galimberti, Tue.
Costanzoo
Macraa
Macr
Costanz
ACCEGLIO
ACCEGLIO Canósio Már Mármoramora Chiusani Shopping: Alba is full of shops selling
Chiusani
Canósio
Magliano
Chialvettaetta
DRONERO
Chialv DRONERO Prata Pratavecchiavecchia Villa Villatata Roa Roata Rossita Rossi Mon Montaneratanera Magliano Alpi
Alpi
Préit Préit Rca. Rca. Cernauda Cernauda truffles and truffle-infused products –
Prat Pratorotondoorotondo 2284m Mon Montemaletemale Passa Passatoretore Cast Castellettoelletto oil, pasta, purée – as well as hazelnut
2284m
Stur
Sturaa
M. Tibèr Pradlév di Cúneo Mor Morozzoozzo cakes and sweets. Cuneo is famous
M. Tibèrtt
T. Grana
Pradléveses
Caraglio
2647m di Cúneo Caraglio T. Grana Above Abandoned brick bridge on the route to Bra, see p43 Below Lofty mountain peaks of
2647m
Cast Castelmagnoelmagno Grana Valg Valgranarana Mar Margaritagarita the Valle Maira near Elva, Stroppo and Acceglio, see pp 45–6 for chestnuts and Bra for its cheese.
Grana
Mon Monterossoterosso San R San Roccoocco
CUNEO
Grana CUNEO Major festivals: Alba: Vinum (wine
Grana
M. Br M. Bramam
2367m fair), late-Apr/May; Fiera del Tartufo
2367m
Cerv Cervascaasca Bianco (white truffle fair), Oct–Nov;
San R San Roccoocco Colla Colla
Beinettee
Vignolo Beinett
Vignolo
Castag Palio degli Asini (donkey derby), first
Castagnarettanaretta
Sun in Oct; La Morra: Mangialonga
Gaiola Bove Bovess
Gaiola
Bor Borgogo (food tour of vineyards), last Sun in
S. Dalmazzoo
Demontete
Aisone
Aisone Demon S. Dalmazz Pever Peveragnoagno
Moiola
Moiola Rivóir Rivóiraa Aug; Bra: Cheese fair, alternate years
Roccavionevione
Stura di Demonte
Valle Stura Stura di Demonte Rocca from 2013; Cuneo: Fiera del Marrone
Valle Stura
Colletto
Colletto Robilante Va (chestnut fair), Oct.
1304m
1304m Gesso Gesso
Valdier
Valdierii
Roáschia
Sant Sant’ Anna’ Anna Roáschia DAY TRIP OPTIONS
di Valdierii
di Valdier Va l l e V e r m e n a g n a
Entr Entracqueacque Vernante
Robilante l l e V e r m
M. Matto
M. Matto Wine buffs will enjoy exploring the
3097m Vernante e n a g n a Langhe vineyards and museums,
3097m
TERME DI Tetti Suet not to mention tasting the superior
TERME DI
Tetti Suet
VALDIERI
VALDIERI produce. Outdoor enthusiasts can
Palanfrèè
Palanfr
Cima d. head for the pretty villages, valley
Cima d. Argentera Argentera
3297m
3297m San Giac greenery and mountain scenery of
San Giacomoomo
M. Carbonè
M. Carbonè the Valle Varaita. For full details, see p47.
2873m
2873m
LAGO DELLA
LAGO DELLA
ROVINA
ROVINA
040-041_Back_Roads_Northern_Italy.indd 41 21/09/17 11:19 am

42 BACK ROADS NORTHERN AND CENTRAL ITALY


1 Barbaresco holding in his right hand the griddle
Cuneo, Piemonte; 12050 on which he was martyred. Step
Barbaresco, overlooking the Tanaro inside the cathedral to see the lovely
river, makes a good introduction wooden choir stalls depicting still
to the hilltop villages of the Langhe lifes and townscapes, inlaid in 1512
area, whose vineyards spill down the by Bernardino Fossati. The main street,
slopes in geometric patterns towards Via Vittorio Emanuele II, is lined with
the rolling hills beyond. A stroll down shops selling truffles, oils, pastas,
Via Torino reveals characteristics wines, cheeses and chocolates.
typical of a wine-country village – ª Exit by Viale Torino to SP3bis, signed
a square 12th-century stone tower, Barolo. Turn left at Gallo for Grinzane
one of a string of medieval watch- Cavour (signposted). Park by the castle.
towers that once studded the region;
Above Alba’s main shopping street, Via a sundial (1999) illustrating the wine- Slow Food
Vittorio Emanuele II making process painted over a whole The region is known for its many food
wall of a house, and of course the festivals. The pleasures of the table
ubiquitous regional enoteca, housed were held in high regard even before
in the former church of San Donato. the Slow Food movement, which
ª Follow SP3 south to Tre Stelle and originated in Bra in 1986 in protest
at the opening of a McDonald’s near
continue along Via Rio Sordo to Alba. the Spanish Steps in Rome. The
WHERE TO STAY Cross the railway line into Viale movement promotes traditional,
Cherasca and take fourth exit into local, seasonal and sustainable food.
AROUND ALBA Corso M Coppino to a large parking Piedmont restaurants serve their local
Villa La Meridiana place at Piazza San Paolo. delicacies with pride. Look for bagna
Cascina Reinè inexpensive cauda (hot dip) – an olive oil dip
A liberty-style villa with great views, set 2 Alba with anchovies and garlic, fritto misto
among vineyards and orchards a short (fried meats), bollito misto (boiled
drive east of Alba on Viale Cherasca. Cuneo, Piemonte; 12051 meats), tajarin (egg tagliatelle) and
Truffle hunts can be arranged. Alba rose to prominence in medieval agnolotti (egg ravioli), the mountain
Località Altavilla 9, 12051; 0173 440 112; times, when 100 brick towers cheese castelmagno, and the “testicles
www.villalameridianaalba.it reportedly dominated its skyline. of the earth” – white truffles.
AROUND BAROLO Nowadays, there are only a few left
around the Piazza Duomo, and the
Cà San Ponzio inexpensive
This farmhouse offers charming rooms town stakes its claim to fame on the 3 Grinzane Cavour
and large breakfasts with delicious cakes. white truffle. During October and Cuneo, Piemonte; 12060
A short drive southwest of La Morra, November, swarms of chefs and food The magnificent 16th-century Castello
it’s a good base for wine-country tours. enthusiasts descend on the town to (closed Tue) dominates Grinzane Cavour.
Via Rittane 7, Frazione Vergne, 12060;
0173 560 510; www.casanponzio.com sample its musky delights. It seems It was once the home of Count Camillo
appropriate that the pink-brick Cavour, the town mayor for many
LA MORRA cattedrale (open daily) is dedicated years and a leading figure in the
Hotel Corte Gondina moderate to San Lorenzo, the patron saint of Italian Unification Movement of the
Stylish and elegant, this hotel has chefs. On its façade, he is portrayed 19th century. His bed, mayoral sash
fine antiques and furnishings, a lush
garden and pool. Good breakfast too.
Via Roma 100, 12064; 0173 509 781; Below left Green rolling hills and vineyards around Barbaresco Below right The famous truffle
www.cortegondina.it castello at Grinzane Cavour, looming high over the village

















Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €100; moderate, €100–€200; expensive, over €200


042-047_Back_Roads_Northern_Italy.indd 42 21/09/17 11:19 am
Back Roads LAYERS PRINTED:
Catalogue Spread template “UK” LAYER
(OpenType)
Date 02 November 2009
Size 145mm x 217mm
Fonts Bulletfont, Clearbullet,
Frutiger Pro, Myriad Pro, Travelfont

DRIVE 2: In the Land of the Truffle 43


and some of his belongings are on
show, as well as a barrel-maker’s
workshop and an 18th-century
distillery. In November, the castle
gains worldwide attention with its
prestigious white truffle auction,
when astronomical amounts of
money – sometimes in excess of
£100,000 for a single lot – change
hands. More affordable for visitors
are the fine wines and grappas for
sale in the attached regional enoteca.
ª Follow SP3 southwest to Barolo
and park in Piazza Colbert. Above left The exquisite dome of the Chiesa
views across wine country. Pick up a Santa Chiara, Bra Above Atmospheric mist
map for vineyard hikes at the Cantina cloaking vineyards around La Morra
Comunale di La Morra here, or from
the tourist office. It’s an easy EAT AND DRINK
15-minute walk to the Cappella del
Barolo (open daily) at Brunate, a BARBARESCO
deconsecrated little church that was Antinè expensive
painted in strikingly bold colours by Michelin-starred restaurant serving veal
American artists Sol Lewitt and David with fried quail’s eggs and black truffle.
There’s also a well-priced tasting menu.
Tremlett in exchange for a supply Via Torino 16, 12050; 0173 635 294;
of Barolo wine. Or, drive to nearby www.antine.it; closed Wed, Jan & mid-
Annunziata, where the Ratti Abbey Aug; booking advised
and Wine Museum offers weekday ALBA
Above Road winding through the fertile guided tours and tastings. Piazza Duomo and La Piola
vineyards around La Morra ª On leaving La Morra take the left moderate–expensive
fork, follow SP58 and then SP661 Upstairs, the elegant Piazza Duomo
4 Barolo following signs to Bra. Park in Piazza comes under the Michelin-starred chef
Cuneo, Piemonte; 12060 XX Settembre. Enrico Crippa. On the ground floor, La
Piola offers less expensive, rustic fare.
The highlight of this diminutive town Pza Risorgimento 4, 12051. Duomo:
is the Castello dei Marchesi Falletti di 6 Bra 0173 366 167; www.piazzaduomoalba.
Barolo – the birthplace of Barolo, the Cuneo, Piemonte; 12042 it; closed Sun & Mon. Piola: 0173 44 28
“King of Wines”. The vineyard has This lively town (its name coming from 00; www.lapiola-alba.it;closed Sun eve &
increased its reputation as a centre of braida – planting vines in rows wide Sun lunch Dec–Sep
wine production with its innovative enough for grain to grow in between) Other options
interactive wine museum, WiMu (open is known as the headquarters of the Check out Tartufi Morra (Piazza
Pertinace 3) for truffles and the pasticceria
daily; closed 10–26 Dec, Jan–mid-Feb). Slow Food movement. As a result, Tartufi Ponzio (Via Vittorio Emanuele II
Through five floors of the castle, visitors food is an important part of any visit. 7A) for hazelnut chocolate truffles.
are enveloped in the history, art, Look for salsiccia di Bra (Bra sausage –
food, music, films, literature and local a mixture of veal, pork, herbs and AROUND BAROLO
traditions relating to the ambrosial spices) on the menus of the excellent Del Buon Padre moderate
liquid. The tour ends in the tempio restaurants here. The tall church of In a quiet village, this place serves
fonduta Piemontese (Piedmont cheese
dell’entourista (Wine Tourist’s Temple), Santa Chiara (open daily), built in 1742, fondue) and beef braised in Barolo.
where visitors can taste quality Barolo has a lovely Rococo interior and, in Via delle Viole 30, Vergne 12060;
for themselves. There’s an enoteca on the words of its creator Bernardo 0173 56192; www.buon-padre.com;
hand for those who want to buy. Antonio Vittone, “a diaphanous closed Wed & Mon–Fri lunch
ª Take the SP3 and at the dome” with an inner and outer shell, BRA
roundabout, take the first exit, SP58, which creates wonderful plays of Osteria del Boccondivino moderate
to La Morra. Park in Piazza Martiri. light. Chiesa di Sant’Andrea (open A founding member of the Slow Food
daily) is giddily Baroque, from its movement, this serves rabbit tajarin
5 La Morra statue-topped façade to its altar (thin tagliatelle) with butter and sage.
Cuneo, Piemonte; 12064 packed with candles. Antique toys Via Mendicità 14, 12042; 0172 425 674;
www.boccondivinoslow.it; closed Mon,
La Morra is another town that focuses feature in the Museo del Giocattolo Sun lunch Jun–Mar & Sun eve Jan–Sep
on wine, with plenty of atmospheric (open Sun and by appointment).
bars for tasting. A climb up through ª Take SS231 and SP662 westwards to Other options
Stock up on a Bra speciality, ciuk
the narrow streets to the Piazza Savigliano. Park in Viale del Sole or Viale (“drunken” cheese aged in grape skins),
Castello is rewarded with superb Gozzano around the Parco Graneris. from Giolito (Via Montegrappa 6).
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€45; expensive, over €45


042-047_Back_Roads_Northern_Italy.indd 43 21/09/17 11:19 am

44 BACK ROADS NORTHERN AND CENTRAL ITALY














Above Riverbed on the way to Sampeyre in
the Valle Varaita Above right The historic 7 Savigliano exploits of Vittorio Amedeo I, Duke
centre of Saluzzo, with views across the valley Cuneo, Piemonte; 12038 of Savoy, in a series of bold military
Despite losing out to Turin in the frescoes, and has more decorative
bid to be the capital of the Savoy feminine rooms too. The Museo
kingdom, the citizens of Savigliano Civico e Gipsoteca (open Sat & Sun)
still built their triumphal arch (1585), contains sculptures by the
which leads onto the broad, arcaded 19th-century artist Davide Calandra,
Piazza Santarosa – a good place for paintings and a reconstruction of an
refreshments. Close by is the 18th-century pharmacy.
Baroque Palazzo Taffini d’Acceglio ª Follow the signs for Saluzzo
(open Fri–Sun), which celebrates the directly westwards on the SP662.

8 Saluzzo
Cuneo, Piemonte; 12037
Renaissance houses, churches, palazzos and a castle all spill down
from Saluzzo’s historic hilltop. Almost in France, the city was constantly
changing hands between the French and the House of Savoy. On
a walk through the narrow lanes and steep cobbled alleyways and
steps up to the old town, it feels as though time has stopped here.
A 90-minute walking tour contains a beautiful polyptych by
From the car, walk up Via Ludovico II the 15th-century Flemish painter
VISITING SALUZZO to Corso Italia, which follows the Hans Clemer (also known as the
medieval walls. To the left stands the Master of Elva). The tourist office is
Parking
Park in Piazza Garibaldi. late-Gothic Cattedrale di Santa Maria further on the left. Cross Corso Italia
Vergine 1 (open daily), whose façade and turn left through the Porta Santa
Tourist Information
Piazza Risorgimento 1, 12037; 0175 has three round windows. The interior Maria 2 and follow Via Alessandro
46710; www.saluzzoturistica.it;
closed Mon PIAZZA
SALI T A SAN BERNAR D O CAVOUR
WHERE TO STAY VIA PALAZZO DI CITTA V I A D E N I N A V I A M A R U C C H I
PIAZZA
PIAZZA
VINEIS
SALUZZO AND AROUND V I A MAC A LLÈ VIA ADUA VIA SE MINARIO CORSO ITALIA CORSO ITALIA GARIBALDI
Persico inexpensive VIA GUALTIERI VIA LUDOVICO II Cattedrale di
Friendly, modern hotel in the centre of Santa Maria
VIA VACCA VIA BALBIS
Casa
town with plainly furnished rooms. It Cavassa Vergine
VIA RIFREDDO VIA SAN NICOLA VIA SAN NICOLA
has a good restaurant on the premises. VIA DEODATA SALUZZO
Piazzetta dei
Vicolo Mercati 10, 12037; 0175 41213; V I A TA P PA R E L L I V I A AL ESSANDRO V OLTA Porta
Santa Maria
Mondagli
www.albergopersico.net V I A S A N TA C H I A R A San
VI A G RI SE L DA V IA DE LLA C HIESA
Castello Rosso moderate Giovanni VI A SPIELBERG
VIA SAN GIOVANNI
Set on a hill amid parkland, this Torre Civica SALITA AL CASTELLO VIA GIAMB A T TISTA BODONI
16th-century castle offers a taste of VIA VALORIA INFERIORE VIA VALO R IA INFERIO R E
luxury and spacious and colourful VIA MULETTI VIA DEL FOLLONE
rooms. A good restaurant, pool and Castiglia
beauty treatments are also available. Piazza 0 metres 150 V I A MO N S I G N O R S AV I O
Via Ammiraglio Reynaudi 5, Costigliole Castello
Saluzzo, 12024 (next to Piasco on SP1); 0 yards 150
0175 230 030; www.castellorosso.com
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €100; moderate, €100–€200; expensive, over €200
042-047_Back_Roads_Northern_Italy.indd 44 21/09/17 2:32 pm
Back Roads LAYERS PRINTED:
Catalogue Spread template “UK” LAYER
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Date 02 November 2009
Size 145mm x 217mm
Fonts Bulletfont, Clearbullet,
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DRIVE 2: In the Land of the Truffle 45


Volta, lined with porticoes, to and the exquisite Madonna della
Piazzetta dei Mondagli 3, where, at Misericordia altarpiece in Room 5. Don’t
number 5, the 19th-century writer miss the glorious panoramic view.
and leading figure of the Go down steps to Via Deodata
Risorgimento, Silvio Pellico, was born. and Via Gualtieri and exit the walls
Go up a steep flight of cobbled steps at Piazza Vineis into Corso Italia (and
to Salita al Castello, past Renaissance the cathedral again). Head back
houses with frescoes, loggias and along Viale della Liberazione and
terracotta decoration, and on to the Via Savigliano to the car.
Torre Civica 4 (closed Fri–Sun), built in ª Take SP589 to Verzuolo, then SP8
1462. Climb up for marvellous views to Sampeyre. The road is slow, with
over the medieval rooftops to the some sharp bends. Park in Piazza
mountains. At the top of the Salita are della Vittoria.
the Piazza Castello 5, the Fontana
della Drancia (a favourite spot for 9 Sampeyre
newly married couples to be Cuneo, Piemonte; 12020
photographed), and the bulky The road follows and crosses the
Castiglia 6 with its formidable keep Varaita river as it winds its way through Above The rugged Valle Maira seen from
– once home to the marquises and the Valle Varaita to the largest town in the road to Elva Below Stream cascading
later (until 1922) a prison. the area, Sampeyre, which is a popular through the lush Valle Varaita
Retrace your steps from the castle base for summer hikes. Visit the
to see the brick church and the tourist office in Piazza della Vittoria
Romanesque bell tower of San for information. Along the way, leafy
Giovanni 7, begun in 1330. If the woods and lofty mountains frame the
church is open, look in at the frescoes views. Of interest are the terracotta
by Pietro da Saluzzo and, in the apse, church of Santi Pietro e Paolo (open
the Cappella dei Marchesi, burial daily), which has frescoes by the Biazaci
place of Ludovico II, who is ornately brothers, and a small, but packed
displayed as a medieval knight. Museo Etnografico (Jul & Aug: open daily;
Continue along Via San Giovanni Sep open Sun and last Sat). The more
to the 15th-century palazzo, Casa adventurous can drive up to the Colle
Cavassa 8, which now houses the di Sampeyre, the less adventurous
Museo Civico (10am–1pm & 2–5pm can take the chairlift to the Sant’Anna EAT AND DRINK
Tue–Sun; tours at 11am & 4pm Sat–Sun & valley. Either way, the view is dramatic
hol. Closed Mon & Wed). Originally the and awe-inspiring. On the way to SALUZZO
home of the Vicar General of the Sampeyre, stop at Piasco (look for the Casa Pellico moderate
Marquis, Galeazzo Cavassa, it was brown sign) to visit the Victor Salvi Located in the historic centre, this
restaurant offers traditional
restored by a devotee of the arts in Harp Museum (Jun–Sep: open Mon–Fri; Piedmontese dishes with an
the 1880s and filled with Renaissance Oct–May: open Sun–Fri). innovative twist. Dishes feature superb
art and antiques. There are also fine ª Follow the signs for Elva, turning local ingredients including Cuneo ham
frescoes, friezes and coffered ceilings. right onto the SP335 at Goria Ugo. The and a range of execellent cheeses.
Good wine list, friendly service and a
Hans Clemer painted the grisaille road is extremely steep and mostly modern atmosphere.
(monochrome) frescoes of the Labours single track with hairpin bends. Piazzetta dei Mondagli, 12037; 0175
of Hercules on the courtyard arcades, 468 33; www.casapellico.it; closed Mon
0 Elva
Above Painted trompe l’oeil doorway in the heart Cuneo, Piemonte; 12020
of Saluzzo’s old town There’s plenty of space to stop and
admire the awesomely rugged view
from the southern side of the Colle di
Sampeyre. Wood and rubble houses
line the isolated valley at Elva, a village
once famous for collecting and selling
women’s hair for wigmaking. The
15th-century Chiesa di Santa Maria
Assunta, decorated with animal and
human heads on its exterior capitals,
is adorned inside with a colourful
series of frescoes by Hans Clemer.
ª The SP335 is signposted to Stroppo.
Park in the square by the church.
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€45; expensive, over €45


042-047_Back_Roads_Northern_Italy.indd 45 21/09/17 11:19 am

46 BACK ROADS NORTHERN AND CENTRAL ITALY


stone houses with their wooden roofs
recall much earlier times. There are
lovely walks leading to waterfalls and
lakes from here (and from Chiappera,
a little further on), but arm yourself
with a good map before setting off.
ª Take SP422 back through Stroppo
and east to Dronero. Park in Piazza XX
Settembre on the west side of town.
For the Riserva Ciciu, take the SP24
towards Busca for 2 km (1 mile), then
turn left at the crossroads for Villar
Above left and right The pleasant townscape San Costanzo and follow the signs.
of Cuneo in Piedmont q Stroppo
Cuneo, Piemonte; 12020 e Dronero
VISITING DRONERO
The Valle Maira is lined with leafy Cuneo, Piemonte; 12025
Visitor Information orchards, thick woods and lush Dronero, where the old men play
Piazza XX Settembre, 12025; 0171 91 pastures that tinkle with the sound of petanque and you’ll hear the Occitan
70 80 cow bells. Stroppo, the valley’s capital language spoken, is home to the
in medieval times, has one church in crenellated Ponte del Diavolo (Devil’s
WHERE TO STAY its square and another jutting out Bridge), built in 1492 across the Maira
dramatically on the spur above. This river. It’s a peaceful viewpoint over
STROPPO
is the 12th-century Chiesa di San the vegetable gardens and trout
Locanda alla Napoleonica inexpensive Peyre, which has a rocket-like bell ponds to the mountains beyond.
Four prettily furnished rooms in a
typical rustic 19th-century village tower and contains beautiful frescoes Also of interest are the octagonal
house, accessed down steep cobbled by the Master of Stroppo. To see inside, grain market and the Museo Civico
stone steps. There’s also a restaurant ask around for the key, then drive Luigi Mallé (open Sat & Sun), with
offering refined occitan specialities. further up to park on a small patch displays on art, the town and art
Bassura di Stroppo, 12020; 0171 999 of grass opposite the church. historian Luigi Mallé’s life. Drive to the
277; www.locandanapoleonica.it
ª Take the slow SP422 west to Acceglio. nearby Riserva Naturale Ciciu del Villar
CUNEO AND AROUND at Villar San Costanzo. Clustered in the
Tetto Garrone inexpensive w Acceglio woods, the ciciu (“puppets”) are huge,
Surrounded by nut groves, this lovely Cuneo, Piemonte; 12021 eroded rocks with stone caps, up
farmhouse has large modern rooms, a At an altitude of 1,220 m (4,000 ft), to 10 m (30 ft) high. They were left
courtyard garden of white flowers and Acceglio is the last town of the Valle behind after the glaciers retreated.
a kitchen for the use of guests.
Via Campagna 45, Roata Rossi, 12100 Maira. During the 16th century, it was There are some great views and it
(Roata Rossi is signposted off SR589); a stronghold of Calvinism, allowing is an excellent spot for a picnic.
0171 682 841; www.tettogarrone.it; the Huguenots to flee here over the ª Follow SP422 to Caraglio, then the
closed in winter nearby French border. Trees line the SP23 to Borgo San Dalmazzo and the
Lovera Palace moderate broad river, peaks loom above and the SS20 towards Valdieri. Look for signs
Elegant hotel with 40 rooms, central
location and garage parking – a king
and a pope have been past guests. It
can organize truffle hunts in autumn.
Via Roma 37, Cuneo, 12100; 0171 690
420; www.palazzolovera.com
Other options
For those who fancy a traditional spa
hotel, the Hotel Royal at Terme di
Valdieri opens from June to September.
0171 97106; www.termerealidivaldieri.it







Right Lago della Rovina, in the pristine
environment of the Parco delle Alpi Marittime
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €100; moderate, €100–€200; expensive, over €200


042-047_Back_Roads_Northern_Italy.indd 46 06/10/17 4:05 pm
Back Roads LAYERS PRINTED:
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Date 02 November 2009
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DRIVE 2: In the Land of the Truffle 47


for Valdieri and Terme di Valdieri on
SP22 which turns into the SP239.
There is parking beyond the baths.
r Terme di Valdieri
Cuneo, Piemonte; 12011
This pleasant spot in the Valle Gesso
was a popular summer retreat for
Italian aristocracy in the 19th century.
Set in the Parco delle Alpi Marittime
(www.parcoalpimarittime.it), it’s a good
base for trips into the mountains –
get a map from the visitor centre (Jun–
Sep: open daily) or simply relax and
take some of the algae or sulphur
treatments. Don’t miss a wander Above View of Dronero and its 15th-century
through the Giardino Botanico ª Return to Valdieri on SP22 and Ponte del Diavolo
Alpino Valderia (mid-Jun–mid-Sep: continue to Borgo San Dalmazzo to
open daily), where the confluence of take SS20 to Cuneo. Follow signs for EAT AND DRINK
mountain and marine climates has Torino to the roundabout just after STROPPO
produced over 400 species of plants. the hospital. Take the third exit, go
ª Retrace the journey here, turning straight over the next roundabout Locanda Codirosso
inexpensive–moderate
right for Entracque before Valdieri. into Lungostura Kennedy and park at Offering views of the Maira Valley, this
Bypass Entracque village by taking first the Piazza Foro Boario on the right. restaurant serves traditional dishes
right, signposted San Giacomo. Bear featuring locally sourced ingredients.
right at Ponte di Rovine for the Lago y Cuneo Homemade dessert and craft beers..
Frazione Ruata Valle 8, 12020; 380 533
della Rovina. Park (paid) by the lake. Cuneo, Piemonte; 12100 3955; www.codirosso.it; closed Nov–
The university town of Cuneo, Apr; booking advised
t Lago della Rovina wedged between the Gesso
Cuneo, Piemonte; 12019 and Stura rivers, has a purposeful, CUNEO
The drive climbs gently through the bustling air and is a good base for Osteria della Chiocciola moderate
mountains to the Parco del’Argentura exploring many parts of Piedmont. The first-floor restaurant serves great
specialities such as ravioli ripieni di
and ends at Lago della Rovina, popular The historic area of town lies to castagne (ravioli stuffed with chestnuts)
with fishermen. It’s impossible to miss the west of the wide 19th-century and vitello tonnato (veal in tuna sauce).
the looming ENEL hydroelectric streets. The Museo Civico (closed Mon) Via Fossano 1, 12100; 0171 66277; www.
pumping station (tours available), the traces local customs and costumes osteriadellachiocciola.it; closed Sun
largest in Italy at San Giacomo. Take and displays prehistoric, Roman Arione moderate
a gentle hike through the woods and medieval artifacts. Strolling The local delicacy is Cuneesi al rhum –
around the lake, or make a full day through the town, look out for a kind of bittersweet chocolate truffle
made with rum. Ernest Hemingway
of it and head over the ridge to Lago tempting displays of chestnut stopped by to try it in 1954.
del Chiotas and Lago Brocan. Look sweetmeats and Castelmagno Piazza Galimberti 14, 12100; 0171 692
out for marmots, chamois and eagles. cheese from the mountains. 539; www.arionecuneo.it
DAY TRIP OPTIONS glorious countryside from here. before reaching Sampeyre 9, where
It is possible to make a circular tour Then aim for the village of Barbaresco the Museo Etnografico is worth a
from Alba to appreciate the excellent 1, another good vantage point, visit. Drive on through spectacular
food and wine of the Langhe especially in the golden evening mountain scenery to the villages
vineyards and the hilltop villages. light, before returning to Alba. of Elva 0 and Stroppo q. Here,
The stunning mountain scenery and admire the frescoes in the churches
wilderness is easily reached from ª From Alba take SP3 to Barolo, then before returning through the
Saluzzo or Cuneo. SP3 and SP58 to La Morra. Head verdant Valle Maira through Dronero
eastwards to Grinzane Cavour and e and back to Saluzzo.
Vineyard tour pick up SP3 through Alba, aiming for
Based in Alba 2, head for the Località Altavilla and Barbaresco, ª From Saluzzo take SP589 to
wonderful wine museum WiMu at returning to Alba by SS231. Verzuolo, then SP8 through Piasco to
Barolo 4, which will set visitors up Sampeyre. From here, head up to the
for La Morra 5, a town with great Mountain and valley greenery Colle di Sampeyre and down on SP335
views over the rolling hills and Drive at a leisurely pace through the to Stroppo. Follow SP422 to Dronero,
vineyards. Take a walk through the lovely Valle Varaita from Saluzzo 8, then SP589 to Saluzzo.

Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate €25–€45; expensive over €45


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BRNI_048-049_OpnDrv3.indd 48 27/10/11 5:47 PM
Back Roads LAYERS PRINTED:
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Date 02 November 2009
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