DK Eyewitness: Back Roads Northern and Central Italy (Travel Guide)

DRIVE 9: Classic Dolomites Tour 99

PLAN YOUR DRIVE

Start/finish: Bolzano to Alpe di Siusi.
Number of days: Approx 4–5.
Distance: 219 km (136 miles).
Road conditions: The roads are pretty
good. Routes over mountain passes
are narrow with steep turns and can
be busy. The A22 motorway can get
heavily congested with long queues
of traffic near tolls – leave plenty of
La Villa (Stern)
La Villa (Stern)
Ortisei
Ortisei time to get to and from airports.
(St. Ulr VAL SAN CASSIANO
(St. Ulrich)ich)
S. Cassiano
Santa Cristina S. Cassiano Beware speed limit of 110 kmh, lower
Santa Cristina
Kollfuschg
(St. Kassian)
Avigna
Avigna V. Gardéna (Grödnertal) (Sankt Christina) Kollfuschg (St. Kassian) than on other Italian motorways.
(Sankt Christina)
(Colfoso)
Longostagno
Punta di Fanis Nord
(A ng) Longostagno Cast Castelrottoelrotto (Colfoso) Punta di Fanis Nord
(A ng)
(Lengstein) (Kast (Kastelruth)elruth) Selva Selva 2969m
(Lengstein)
2969m
VAL SAN CASSIANO
V. Gardéna (Grödnertal)
CORVARA
Vanga
(Wolkenstein)
Vanga Siusi ello S (Wolkenstein) CORVARA When to go: May to Oct (some cable
Siusi ello Sciliarciliar
TRE SASSI FORTT
PASSO GARDENA
(Wangen)
S. Genesio At.
S. Genesio At. (Wangen) (Seis) (Seis) PASSO GARDENA TRE SASSI FOR cars only operate mid-Jun–mid-Sep).
Compacciocio
Collalbo
(Jenesien)
(GRÖDNER JOCH)
(Jenesien) Collalbo Compac (GRÖDNER JOCH)
(Compa
(Compatsch)tsch)
(Klobenstein)
LAGAZUOI (LAGACIÓ)GACIÓ)
Terlano
Terlano (Klobenstein) LAGAZUOI (LA Early or late snow may close the
CASTEL RONCOLOONCOLO
Sella Gruppe
ALPE DI SIUSI (SEISER ALM)
(Terlan) CASTEL R ALPE DI SIUSI (SEISER ALM) Sella Gruppe passes – look for signs on the approach
(Terlan)
(SCHLOSS RUNKELSTEIN)OSS RUNKELSTEIN)
(SCHL Eisack Eisack Fié allo Alpe di Siusi (Seiser Alm) Passo di Sella Piz Boé M.Averau roads or call 0471 200 198.
Fié allo
Piz Boé
M.Averau
Sciliar (
Sciliar (Völs)Völs)
3152m
3152m
Passo di Sella
Arabba
Alpe di Siusi (Seiser Alm)
2648m
2244m
Col di Lana
BOLZANO M. Sciliar 2244m Arabba Col di Lana 2648m
BOLZANO
2452m
2452m
M. Sciliar
(Rosengarten)
(BOZEN)
Prösels
(Schlern)n)
Predonicoo
Predonic (BOZEN) Prösels (Schler Campitello Andraz Main market days: Bolzano: fruit and
Andraz
Campitello
2563m
Pieve di
(Per (Perdonig)donig) 2563m (Rosengartenspitze) atinaccio Catinaccio di Fassa PASSO PORDOI Pieve di vegetable market at Piazza Erbe
di Fassa
PASSO PORDOI
Livinallongo
Cima Catinaccio
Cima Catinaccio
S. Páolo
S. Páolo (Rosengartenspitze) (Rosengarten) Avisio Canazei Livinallongo (Obstplatz), Mon–Sat; La Villa: last Thu
Avisio Canazei
Vigo di Fassa d i F a s s a
(St. P (St. Pauls)auls) 2981m Passo di Fedaia
Passo di Fedaia
2981mC
Tires Tires Penia Penia Lago di 2047m of month; Corvara: 2nd & last Sat of
Lago di
2047m
Appiano
Fedaia
Appiano (Tiers) Passo Nigrara Fedaia month; Ortisei (St Ulrich): Fri.
(Tiers) Passo Nig
Cornaiano S. Giac
1688m
(Eppan)
(Eppan) Cornaiano S. Giacomoomo 1688m
VAL DI FASSAASSA
(Girlan) (St. Jakob Val d’E ga (Eggenta l ) Nov Nova Levantea Levante VAL DI F Marmolada
(Girlan)
(St. Jakob))
Marmolada
Pera di Fassa
3342m
(Welschnofen)en)
(Welschnof Pera di Fassa V a l d i F a s s a 3342m Shopping: Look for local wine, liqueurs
Pozza di Fassa
Pozza di Fassa
Laves Ciampie Key and grappas, wild honey, cheeses and
Ciampie
Laves
(Leif
(Leifers)ers)
Val d’E ga (Eggenta l )
Caldar Bronzolo TRENTINO Vigo di Fassa salami; loden (traditional felt jackets
Caldaroo
TRENTINO
Cima dell’Uomo
(Kalt (Kaltern)ern) Bronzolo Cima dell’Uomo Drive route and hats); fruit compôtes and preserves;
Taramelli
(Branzoll)oll)
(Branz AL Soraga V a l Taramelli 3010m
3010m
ALTO ADIGETO ADIGE
2759m
2759m
STR STRADA DEL VINOADA DEL VINO Soraga M o n z o n i and kräutersalz (salt and herb mix).
M o n z o n i
(WEINSTRASSE)ASSE)
Cast Castelvécchioelvécchio (WEINSTR Nov Novale (Rauth)ale (Rauth) Cimon
Cimon
del Latemar MoenaMoena
(Altenbur Aldino GEOP del Latemar Major festivals: Across region:
(Altenburg)g)
GEOPARCARC
Aldino
2840m
S. Giuseppe
S. Giuseppe (Aldein) BLE BLETTERBACHTTERBACH 2840m Above The limestone peaks of the Dolomites as seen from Marmolada, see p102 Törggelen (see p94), mid-Sep–Nov;
(Aldein)
(St. Josef
(St. Josef))
Sella Sella Corno Bianco Below Typical valley scenery on the Strada del Vino, see p101 Below left Wall Bolzano: Transart (festival of
Corno Bianco
Cima ValsordaValsorda
(Söll) (Söll) (Weißhor Cima 2752m Passo so di Lusia painting on the side of a Bolzano “Torgglhaus”, or restaurant, see p100 contemporary culture), Oct; Christmas
Passo so di Lusia
(Weißhorn)n)
2752m
2056m
2317m
Termeno Ora Ora Ober Oberradeinradein 2317m 2056m
Termeno
Pampeago
(Tramin)
(Tramin) (Auer) Pampeago market, late Nov–23 Dec; Appiano
(Auer)
Fon Fontanefreddetanefredde (Eppan): medieval horsemanship,
(Kalt (Kaltenbrunn)enbrunn) Predazz
Predazzoo
Cortacciacia
Cortac S. Lugano Whitsun Castelrotto (Kastelruther):
S. Lugano
Trodena
(Kur (Kurtatsch)tatsch) Adige (Etsch) Adige (Etsch) Egnaa Trodena Varena Bellamonte Spatzen folk festival, Oct; Christmas
Bellamonte
(Truden)
(Truden)
Varena
Egn
Ziano di
Ziano di
(Neumarkt)kt)
Cavalese
Fiemme
Mag Magréré (Neumar Cavalese Téser Téseroo Fiemme market in Dec; Val Gardena (Gröden) &
(Mar (Margreid)greid) Alta Badia: Ski World Cup events, Dec.
V A L D I F I E M M E
Cast Castelloello
di Fiemme V A L D I F I E M M E
di Fiemme
DAY TRIP OPTIONS
Using Bolzano as a base offers family
day trips exploring an archaeological
museum, enjoying a picnic then
going on a hike to look for dinosaurs
in a gorge, before admiring the
frescoes of dwarves and giants in a
castle. Adults may prefer a wine tour
(including a visit to a wine museum)
through famous wineries of the Alto
Adige, enjoying a gourmet lunch
along the way. For full details, see p103.
BRNI_098-099_ItinDrive9.indd 99 02/09/14 2:09 PM

100 BACK ROADS NORTHERN AND CENTRAL ITALY

1 Bolzano (Bozen)
Alto Adige; 39100
In a valley at the junction of the Talvera and Isarco rivers, Alto Adige’s
main town has changed hands several times over the centuries. In
the Middle Ages it was controlled by the Counts of Tirol, then by the
Bishops of Trento; next it passed to the Habsburgs, then to Bavaria
and Austria. Although it was given to Italy at the end of World War I,
there’s still a real Germanic feel to the town centre.

A two-hour walking tour Backtrack a little to the top end of the
Via Laurin connects the train station market and take a left into the road
to the start of the walk at Piazza named after Dr Joseph Streiter 6 –
Above Statue of Walther von der Vogelweide Walther 1. Passing the statue of a mayor of the town in the mid-19th
in Piazza Walther (Waltherplatz), Bolzano Walther von der Vogelweide (1170– century – here are shops selling choc-
1230), a great German poet of the olate, vintage clothes and accessories
VISITING BOLZANO (BOZEN) Middle Ages, head to the Gothic here. Continue to Via dei Bottai
Parking Duomo 2 (open daily) with its (Bindergasse) and turn right to Piazza
Park in Piazza Walther (Waltherplatz), elaborate steeple and Municipio (Rathausplatz)
on Via Laurin or outside the train lozenge-pattern roof. A 7, lined with beautiful
station (in the Central Parking facility). short walk leads to the Rococo stucco façades.
Tourist information Chiesa dei Domenicani Another right turn leads
Via Alto Adige 60, 39100; 0471 307 000; 3 (open daily), with down Portici (Lauben)
www.bolzano-bozen.it Gothic frescoes from the 8, a porticoed shopping
Giotto school and fine Detail of a fresco from street with oriel windows
WHERE TO STAY
15th-century frescoes by Bolzano’s Gothic Duomo and elegant Baroque
BOLZANO Friedrich Pacher in the floral plasterwork.
Greif expensive cloister (separate entrance). Head up Continue along Via Museo to the
This central, 500-year-old inn is now Via Goethe-Strasse to the food Museo Archeologico 9 (10am–
a chic 33-bedroom haven filled with market on Piazza Erbe (Obstplatz) 4. 6pm Tue–Sun; also Mon in Jul, Aug & Dec).
original art and Biedermeier furniture. On one corner stands the fountain of The prize exhibit here is Ötzi – the
Piazza Walther, Bolzano;
0471 318 000; www.greif.it Neptune (1745), known as Gabelwirt remains of a man in his 40s from the
(Innkeeper with a Fork) – walk past Copper Age, preserved in the ice of
AROUND GEOPARC this and head up Via dei Francescani the Alps on the Italian-Austrian
BLETTERBACH (Franziskanergasse) to the Convento border. There’s a video reconstruction
Krone inexpensive dei Francescani 5 (open Mon–Sat), of how Ötzi may have met his end in
This 16th century friendly family-run dating to the first half of the 14th 3500 BC. Cross the River Talvera
village inn has an excellent restaurant. century. Inside is one of Bolzano’s (Talfer) to the arch on Piazza Vittoria
Dorfplatz 3, Piazza Principale, 39040
Aldino (Aldein); 0471 886 825; finest treasures: a superb Gothic (Siegesplatz) 0, commissioned by
www.gasthof-krone.it wooden altar carved by Hans Klocher. Mussolini in 1928. Return back over
LUNGO TALVERA BOLZANO V I A C A S T EL RO N COLO V I A D E I V A N G A 0 metres 100
Piazza Vittoria
(Siegesplatz)
V I A T A L V E R A
P O NT E TALV ER A
V I A S A N Q U I R I N O V I A C . D I R I S P A R M I O V. ROGGIA V I A V A N G A Convento dei 0 yards 100
FRANCESCANI
VIA DEI
V IA M US E O
V I A L E V A N E Z I A Talvera (Talfer) V I A R O S M I N I Archeologico V I A P O R T I C I VIA DEl BOTTAI
Museo
Francescani
V I A V I N T L E R
Piazza Erbe
(Obstplatz)
L U N G O T A L V E R A S . Q U I R I N O V I A D A N T E VIA OSPEDALE Domenicani V I A G O E T H E S T R . V I A P O S T A Walther DEL GRANO VIA GRAPPOLI Municipio V I A A N D R E A S H O F E R VIA C AVO UR
V I A L . D A V I N C I
V I A D R J S T R E I T E R
VIA MÜHL
PIAZZA
Piazza
V I A A R G E N T I E R I
(Rathausplatz)
V I A C A R D U C C I
PIAZZA
V I A D I M O S T R A
DOMENICANI
Piazza
V IA D E L A I
Chiesa dei
VIA CAPPUCCINI
V I A G E R B E R
V I A D E R E N A
VIA ISARCO
Duomo
Station
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €100; moderate, €100–€200; expensive, over €200 Railway VIA PIAVE
100-103_Back_Roads_Northern_Italy.indd 100 21/09/17 11:17 am

DRIVE 9: Classic Dolomites Tour 101



the bridge, carrying straight on to
Piazza del Grano, then turn right back
to Piazza Walther.
ª From central Bolzano, follow signs
for Funivia (cable car) di S Genesio and
for Castel Roncolo. Turn right, crossing
the river to the car park. Walk up the
steps (slippery when wet) to the castle.
2 Castel Roncolo
(Schloss Runkelstein)
Alto Adige; 39100 Above left Magnifica Comunità, Cavalese’s
Pier Paolo Pasolini filmed his version of (Magreid), then take the minor road to historic parliament building Above right
Boccaccio’s (1313–75) bawdy tales The the station and cross over A22 and River Vines on the slopes above Lago di Caldaro, on
Decameron (1971) in this 13th-century Adige. Turn left onto SS12 to Egna the Strada del Vino Below Bustling market
castle (closed Mon). The secular frescoes (Neumarkt) and turn right through the on the Piazza Erbe, Bolzano
are some of the best in the world. village. Turn right onto SS48 towards Val
Images of giants and dwarves, the di Fiemme. After two sharp bends follow EAT AND DRINK
legendary lovers Tristan and Isolde signs left for Aldein (Aldino). Turn right
and the world of chivalry were painted after village and park at the Geoparc. BOLZANO
to impress in the 14th century – the Ca’ de Bezzi (Batzenhäusl)
castle was part of the Vintler family’s 4 Geoparc Bletterbach inexpensive
bid to be accepted into noble society. Alto Adige; 39040 This 600-year-old inn offers mixed plates
served in cast-iron pans. Good wine.
ª Return to Bolzano centre, cross the Rock fans can see how the Dolomites Via A Hofer (Andreas-Hofer-Strasse) 30;
Ponte Druso and go straight. Take SS42 were formed, epoch by epoch, as well 0471 050 950; www.batzen.it
for Appiano (Eppan) and Strada del Vino as spot the tracks of prehistoric reptiles Franziskanerstuben moderate
(Weinstrasse). Turn right to Caldaro. by walking the length of this 8-km This homely restaurant offers a mix of
Park in the wine centre car park or in (5-mile) fossil-packed gorge (admission Italian and Tiroaean dishes.
the blue boxes outside the town centre. charge), which has carved its way Via Dei Francescani 7, 39100; 0471 976
down the mountain since the last Ice 183; www.franziskanerstuben.com;
3 Strada del Vino Age. The Geopath is for experienced closed Sun
(Weinstrasse) walkers (with hiking boots); an easier STRADA DEL VINO
Alto Adige; 39052 30-minute forest path (wheelchair Ansitz Pillhof inexpensive
Although it’s one of the smallest wine accessible) from the visitor centre The best wines from South Tyrol are on
regions in Italy, Alto Adige produces gives views into the canyon. display in the enoteca (wine shop) here;
more DOC wines than any other. This ª Descend via Aldein (Aldino) to try by the glass at the bar or in the bistro.
section of the drive follows part of the SS48. Turn left to Cavalese in the Val Via Bolzano 48, 39010 Frangart, Appiano
(Eppan) (on SS42 south of Bolzano); 0471
South Tyrolean Wine Road. Start at di Fiemme. Park in the main square. 633 100; www.pillhof.com
Caldaro’s Winecenter della Cantina Zur Rose expensive
(open daily), with wines for any budget. 5 Val di Fiemme The elegant food is Michelin-starred
More tasting opportunities are on offer Trentino; 38033 and includes seafood and flavours from
at the wine bar/visitor centre, Punkt The focus of Cavalese’s town centre is across Italy. The cellar is well-stocked.
(closed Mon), on the main square. the Magnifica Comunità, a medieval Via Josef Innerhofer 2, 39057 San
Enjoy, too, Caldaro’s 16th-century palazzo (not open to public) frescoed Michele, Appiano (Eppan); 0471 662
249; www.zur-rose.com; closed Sat eve
Uberetsch architecture, which mixes with images of San Vigilio. This was & Sun
Gothic and Renaissance styles. once the summer palace of the
ª Follow Strada del Vino (Weinstrasse) Bishops of Trento, who used to stay Restaurant Ritterhof expensive
This restaurant serves locally sourced
through Termeno (Tramin) and Magre here to escape the summer heat. Stay dishes with an imaginative twist and
for a coffee or lunch before carrying on has a good wine list.
along SS48 to Tésero. This is known for Weinstrasse 1/A, Kaltern; 0471 963 330;
its Chiesa di San Rocco, frescoed with www.restaurant-ritterhof.it; closed
Jan–mid-Feb: Mon–Thu, mid-Feb–Dec:
activities not allowed on a Sunday, Mon & Tue lunch
such as drinking and playing dice.
ª From Tésero, take the minor road VAL DI FIEMME
(not SS48) to Predazzo, then before El Molin expensive
Moena take a deviation to the right. Great stuzzichini (snacks), a superior
Head past Lago di Soraga and return to pizzeria and even Michelin-starred food.
P.za Cesare Battisti 11, 38033 Cavalese;
SS48. Drive through Pera di Fassa and 0462 340 074 (book for lunch); www.
park at the Vajolet chairlift station. elmolin.info; closed lunch Mon–Fri & Tue
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€45; expensive, over €45

100-103_Back_Roads_Northern_Italy.indd 101 21/09/17 11:17 am

102 BACK ROADS NORTHERN AND CENTRAL ITALY
















Above left Mountain scenery behind Corvara
Above centre Lago di Fedaia, near Canazei Far 6 Val di Fassa ª Descend on SS48 through Arabba
right Hiking in the Dolomites at Marmolada Trentino; 38039 and Livinallongo; climb to the Passo di
Below The glacier on top of Marmolada Popular with skiers, Val di Fassa’s classic Falzàrego. Park at the cable car station.
sight is the Rosengarten mountain
WHERE TO STAY range (Catinaccio in Italian). A chairlift 8 Lagazuoi (Lagació)
VAL SAN CASSIANO (end Jun–early Sep) climbs from Pera to Veneto; 32043
Garni Ai Pini inexpensive Ciampedie at 2,000 m (6,562 ft), where A cable car whisks passengers up from
A family-run guesthouse with sauna. it’s possible to walk among the peaks. Passo di Falzàrego to Lagazuoi at
Strada Glira 4, 39030 San Cassiano; An easy one-hour forest trail (Path 540) 2,778 m (9,114 ft) in just three minutes
0471 849 541; www.ai-pini.it; closed leads from Ciampedie to the Gardeccia (Jun–Nov & Dec–Easter). A short walk
Easter–early Jun, Oct & Nov refuge – perfect for a lunch stop. uphill leads to the Lagazuoi refuge, a
Chalet Susi expensive ª Continue on SS48 to Canazei, and large café/restaurant with stunning,
A simple and well-presented apartment. begin the signposted ascent to the far-reaching views of most of the
Via Sotsas 4, 39030 La Villa; 0471 847
015 ; www.chaletsusi.it; closed Easter– Passo Pordoi. Bear right on SS48 up a Dolomites. In World War I, Austrian
mid-Jun, Oct & Nov series of steep switchbacks to Passo troops gained a bird’s-eye view of
Pordoi, which has ample free parking. the Passo Valparola from the exposed
Rosa Alpina expensive
Understated luxury at this spa hotel. Kaiserjäger path to the northwest.
Strada Micura de Rü 20, 39030 San Rosengarten (Rose garden) Visitors with walking boots and a head
Cassiano in Badia; 0471 849 500; Ladin legends are part of an epic oral for heights can turn right from the
www.rosalpina.it tradition. One has it that the dwarf cable car station and head down the
CORVARA King Laurin, angry when his beloved rock-cut steps that lead to the wartime
La Perla expensive Princess Similde was taken away from galleries, blasted into the heart of the
him, put a spell on his rose garden so
Luxury hotel with exceptional food. that no one would see it again by day mountain (rent helmets/torches at
Strada Col Alt 105, 39033; 0471 831 the entrance). This exciting descent
000; www.hotel-laperla.it; closed Apr– or night – but he forgot to include lasts about 90 minutes and is a hit
mid-May & mid-Sep–Nov dawn and dusk – when the sun gives
the mountains their rosy glow. with older children. Alternatively,
ALPE DI SIUSI (SEISER ALM) return to the pass by the cable car.
Cavallino d’Oro inexpensive ª Turn left towards Passo di Valparola
A 700-year-old inn with 40 rooms. 7 Passo Pordoi and drive for a few minutes to the
Piazza Kraus, 39040 Castelrotto; 0471
706 337; www.cavallino.it Alto Adige; 38032 Museum of the Tre Sassi Fort.
For the best views of glacier-topped
Romantik Hotel Turm expensive Marmolada (3,246 m/10,650 ft), take 9 Tre Sassi Fort
A superb spa hotel with great food.
Piazza Chiesa 9, 939050 Fie allo Sciliar; the cable car (late May–late Oct) from Veneto, 32043
0471 725 014; www.hotelturm.it; closed Passo Pordoi (2,239 m/7,346 ft) up to Built in 1897 by the Austro-Hungarian
first 2 wks Apr & early Nov–21 Dec Sass Pordoi. Alternatively, stretch the army to defend the Passo Valparola
legs for half an hour or so along the (2,168 m/7,113 ft), this fort was opened
Viel del Pan (“trail of bread”) – an old as a museum (15 Jun–30 Sep: open
grain-smuggling route which begins daily) in 2003 to commemorate the
at the pass behind the Albergo Savoia 1914–18 war, with the entrance now
(hiking boots essential). Once back in guarded by “soldiers” in full uniform.
the car, descend through a series of Once home to a garrison, the fort now
steep switchbacks to pretty Arabba. exhibits poignant memorabilia, letters,
Carry on along the Livinallongo valley, photographs and films showing the
passing the 11th-century Andraz harsh icy conditions that the soldiers
castle, which once defended the iron on both sides fought under during a
ore mines and foundries producing conflict that saw tens of thousands die.
swords for export across Europe. ª Descend to Val San Cassiano.



100-103_Back_Roads_Northern_Italy.indd 102 21/09/17 11:17 am

DRIVE 9: Classic Dolomites Tour 103


0 Val San Cassiano ª From Corvara, follow signs for the
Alto Adige; 39030 Passo Gardena (Grödner Joch). Park at
This is a lovely part of the Alta Badia, the bar/restaurant at the top.
where footpaths lead through lush
pastures from Capanna Alpina into the w Passo Gardena
mountains of the Fanes-Sennes-Braies (Grödner Joch)
Natural Park – site of many Ladin Alto Adige; 39033
legends. In this quiet valley, look for A quieter pass than Pordoi, this route
chamois, capercailies and eidelweiss. has outstanding views of moorland
There are also traditional vila settle­ and mountain, with a café at the top
ments – wooden homes with a at 2,121 m (6,959 ft). The descent leads
galleried hayloft, built around a central into the Val Gardena (Grödnertal) and
square with a fountain, drinking trough the villages of Selva (Wolkenstein),
and communal bread oven – a mer­ Santa Cristina (Sankt Christina) and
ging of sociable Roman customs with Ortisei (Sankt Ulrich), which throng
those of the more isolated Rhaetian with skiers in winter but are relatively
and Bajuvares peoples centuries ago. peaceful in summer.
ª Continue to La Villa (Stern). Turn ª Descend on SS243 and turn right
left for Corvara. onto SS242. At Ortisei (St. Ulrich), turn
left for Castelrotto (Kastelruth). Go Above The pretty ski resort of Corvara, a good
Ladin country straight on to Siusi (Seis). Park at the base for a trip up Col Alt
The third language in this region, cable car for a walk or drive past Fié
after Italian and German, is Ladin – allo Sciliar (Völs am Schlern), then EAT AND DRINK
a combination of Latin, Celtic and turn left to Prösels.
Rhaetian. During the Roman Empire, VAL SAN CASSIANO
Ladin territory ran from Switzerland e Alpe di Siusi (Seiser Alm) Rifugio Scotoni expensive
to the Adriatic sea, but a Germanic Walk to this popular mountain hut for
culture from Bavaria took precedence Alto Adige; 39040 its wood­fire cooked mixed grills.
around AD 400. There are about The route runs below the Alpe di Siusi Alpe Lagazuoi 2, 39030 La Villa in Badia
30,000 Ladin speakers in the plateau at 2,000 m (6,560 ft) (closed to (1-hour’s hike on Path 20 from Capanna
Dolomites today and the language traffic 9am–5pm, unless staying in a Alpina, off the San Cassiano valley road);
is taught in schools and used in hotel on the mountain). The road is 0471 847 330; www.scotoni.it; closed
public administration. There are TV flanked by hay meadows, while above early Apr–mid-Jun & Oct–mid-Dec
and radio programmes in Ladin, as St. Hubertus expensive
well as the newspaper Usc di Ladins. looms Sciliar (Schlern) mountain,
symbol of the Dolomites, topped by Outstanding restaurant in Rosa Alpina
two peaks. In early summer, the wild offering Michelin­starred refined cuisine.
q Corvara flowers are stunning – take the cable Strada Micura de Rü 20, 39030 San
Cassiano; 0471 849 500; closed Tue
Alto Adige; 39033 car from Siusi (Seis) to the pastures
In 1930, mountain guide Franz around Compaccio (Compatsch) to CORVARA
Kostner saw the potential of Corvara see them. From Siusi, continue past the Rifugio Col Alt expensive
Enjoy dishes such as pasta with venison
as a ski resort and built Italy’s large onion­domed St Konstantin church ragù or oysters and Champagne.
lift to Col Alt (1,980 m/6,496 ft). He to Fiè allo Sciliar. Carry on to forbidding 0471 836 324; www.rifugiocolalt.it;
then set up the first ski school and Castel (Schloss) Prösels (Apr–Oct: guided closed Apr–mid-Jun & mid-Sep–mid-Dec
made the valley accessible to cars. tours hourly 11am–4pm Mon–Sat; Jul & AROUND PASSO GARDENA
The town is still unspoilt and is the Aug: 10am–5pm), built around 1500
centre of the Ladin­speaking area. by the Lords of Völs – witch hunters, Stüa Catores moderate
Try the deer ravioli with bilberry butter.
A trip up Col Alt is worth it for the friends of Emperor Maximilian and Via Sacunstr. 49, 39046 Ortisei; 0471 796
restaurant and views at the top. owners of salt mines near Innsbruck. 682; www.stuacatores.com; closed Tue
DAY TRIP OPTIONS life in the area in the Copper Age. Wine tour
To break up the tour into day trips, use Pick up a picnic in Bolzano, then drive From Bolzano 1, drive the Strada
Bolzano as a base. Families will enjoy to Geoparc Bletterbach 4 to search del Vino 3 to Caldaro to visit its
a look into the area’s past. Adults will for dinosaur fossils. Enjoy lunch, then wine centres and plan which wineries
enjoy the wine tour – but may want set off to Castel Roncolo 2 for a to visit. Head to Tramin, then Cortaccia,
to do it in a tour group minibus – classic castle with lively frescoes. Magre, Egna and Ora. Enjoy tastings
contact www.suedtiroler-weinstrasse.it. and lunching at a winery restaurant.
From Bolzano, take SS12 south to Ora, pick
Family time-travel up SS48 east, turning off left to Aldino then Follow the drive’s directions for the Strada
Visit the Museo Archeologico at Bletterbach. Return the same way, passing del Vino, but stay on the SS12 at Ora,
Bolzano 1 to learn about Ötzi and through Bolzano, then taking SS508 north. returning back to Bolzano.

Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€45; expensive, over €45


100-103_Back_Roads_Northern_Italy.indd 103 21/09/17 11:17 am

BRNI_104-105_OpnDrv10.indd 104 27/10/11 6:00 PM
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DRIVE 10





Milan
Turin Venice
IT AL Y
Genoa Bologna
Florence
Perugia
Rome



Mountains

and Lakes


Laghi di Fusine

to Trieste



Highlights

• Stunning scenery
Visit the national parks and pretty
mountain villages in the Alpi Giulie
• Cultural capital
Wander past the palazzos and loggias
of Udine, the historic capital of Friuli
• Borderland vineyards
Explore the low-lying hills, dotted
with vineyards, farms and country
inns, close to Slovenia
• Roman remains
Admire the remains of the Roman
town of Friuli, now the most important
archaeological site in northern Italy
• Imperial grandeur
See the ruins left in Trieste by the
Romans, and the grand palazzos and
coffee houses left by the Habsburgs



The magnificient 14th-century Castello
Duino, on the road to Trieste




BRNI_104-105_OpnDrv10.indd 105 27/10/11 6:00 PM

106 BACK ROADS NORTHERN AND CENTRAL ITALY

Mountains and Lakes

Bordering Austria and Slovenia, Friuli-Venezia Giulia has a rich and complex MALBORGHETTO Camporosso
MALBORGHETTO Camporosso
Pontebba
Ugovizzain Valcanale
history, reflected in its patchwork of languages and ethnic groups. The Pontebba Ugovizza in Valcanale Fusine in
Fusine in
Valromana
Valromana
Podkoren
northern area around Tarviso – part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire till M. Sernio Bevor Podkoren
Bevorchianschians
M. Sernio
TARVISIO
2190m
World War I – boasts stunning Alpine scenery, complete with braided 2190m VALBRUNA TARVISIO Kranjska Gora
Kranjska Gora
VALBRUNA
rivers, pristine lakes and the high peaks of the Alpi Giulie. Towards the Grauzária 2197m Dog Dognana Cave d. LAGHI DI
Grauzária
LAGHI DI
2197m
Cave d.
FUSINE
south, these mountains give way to the fertile hills and plains of Friuli. Udinese Chiusaforteorte Jôf di Montasio Predil Predil FUSINE
Móggio
Móggio
Udinese Chiusaf
Jôf di Montasio
Passo d.
2755m
Dotted with castles, this land, home to wine making and ham-curing, 2755m Passo d.
Predil
Predil
Saletto
has the charming city of Udine as its capital. To the east, near the Amaro Carnia Resiutta Saletto Sella Nevea Log pod
Log pod
Amaro
Sella Nevea
Mangartom
Mangartom
Carnia Resiutta
1190m
Slovenian border, are two of Italy’s most important fine-wine Prato di Resia 1190m
Prato di
Resia
M. Canin Bovec
regions: Colli Orientali and the Collio. Closer to Gorizia, the stark, M. S. Simeone M. Canin Bovec Soča Soča
2587m
2587m
M. S. Simeone
1506m VENZONE
dramatic uplands of the karst plateau drop down 1506m VENZONE Musi Uccea
Uccea
Musi
Alesso
to the Adriatic and the Neo-Classical city of Trieste. Alesso Žaga Žaga
SLOVENIA
Passo di
Passo di
Trasaghis Gemona Tanamea SLOVENIA
Trasaghis
Gemona
Tanamea
del Friuli Breginj
del Friuli
Breginj
Lusévera
Osoppo Lusévera
Osoppo
Kobaridid
Kobar
Robič
Artegna
Artegna Platischis Robič
Platischis
Idrsko
Rívoli di Osoppo Tarcento Idrsko
Rívoli di Osoppo
Tarcento
Búia Búia Nimis
Nimis
Masarolis
Attimis Masarolis Drenchia
Attimis
Púlfero Drenchia
Majano
Ragogna Majano Púlfero Volče Volče
Ragogna
Tricésimo
San Daniele
San Daniele Tricésimo
Faédis
del Friuli Faédis Savogna
del Friuli
Savogna
Tavagnacco
Tavagnacco
S. Pietro al Natisone
Fagagna S. Pietro al Natisone
Fagagna
Togliano
Rive Rive Togliano
d’Arcano
d’Arcano Martignacco Povoletto Soca ˘ Soca ˘
Povoletto
Martignacco
CIVIDALE DEL FRIULI
Remanzacco CIVIDALE DEL FRIULI
Remanzacco
Kanal Kanal
Pasian
Pasian
Premariacco
COLLI ORIENTALI
di Prato
di Prato Premariacco COLLI ORIENTALI
UDINE
UDINE
Deskie
Prepotto
Campoformido
Campoformido Prepotto Deskie
Buttrio
Basiliano Buttrio Natisone Natisone Dolegna del Collio
Basiliano
Dolegna del Collio
S. Andrat
FRIULI-VENEZIA
FRIULI-VENEZIA S. Andrat COLLIO: STRADA
COLLIO: STRADA
GIULIA Pavia di Brazzano DEL VINO del Collio
GIULIA
San Floriano
DEL VINO San Floriano
Brazzano
Pavia di
del Collio
Udine
Zegla
Pozzuolo
Pozzuolo Udine Zegla
Solkan
del Friuli
Codr Codroipooipo del Friuli Solkan
Russiz di Sotto Nova Gorica
Mortegliano
Mortegliano Trivignano Russiz di Sotto Nova Gorica
Trivignano
CORMÒNS
Passariano
Passariano Udinese CORMÒNS
GORIZIA
Udinese
Above Remains of the colonnaded Roman forum in front of the Talmassons Palmanova Capriva GORIZIA
Talmassons
Capriva
Palmanova
del Friuli
Castiòns di Strada
medieval Castello di San Giusto, Trieste, see p113 Muscletto Castiòns di Strada Románs del Friuli Črniče
Románs
Muscletto
Črniče
d’ Isonzo
Gonàrs
Gonàrs d’ Isonzo Isonzo Isonzo
˘
˘
Rivignano Gradisca
Rivignano
Gradisca
Bagnária
d'lsonzo
Porpetto
Porpetto Bagnária d'lsonzo Dornberk
Dornberk
Sagrado
Teòr Teòr Arsa Arsa Sagrado
Branik
Ruda Ruda Doberdo del Lago Branik
Doberdo del Lago
ACTIVITIES S. Giórgio Temnica
S. Giórgio
Temnica
di Nogaro Cervignano
Muzzana di Nogaro Cervignano Friuli V Štanjel
Muzzana
Štanjel
Friuli Veneziaenezia
del Friuli
Komen
Monfalcone
d. Turgnano
d. Turgnano del Friuli Giulia Monfalcone Komen
Giulia
Nogaro
Walk the loop of the Laghi di Fusine Nogaro
Marano
Marano DUINO Gorjansko
DUINO
Gorjansko
Lagunare Áusa-
Lagunare Áusa-
Hear the call of the wild with some dog-sledding in Tarvisio Corno AQUILEIA
AQUILEIA
Corno
Sistiana
Sistiana
Dutovlje
Dutovlje
Golfo dio di
Cross-country ski or snow shoe in winter – or walk in summer – Laguna di Grado Belvedere Isonzo Panzano Aurisina
Golf
Belvedere
Aurisina
Panzano
in the pristine countryside around Valbruna
Laguna di Grado
Isonzo
Grignano
Grignano
Ascend to the spiritual heights of Monte Lussari by cable car Golf Miramare Sežana
Miramare
Golf oo
Sežana
Grado
Grado
Scare yourself with the mummies in the Duomo, Venzone di Villa Villa
di T r iesteT r ieste
Opicina
Opicina
Wander through the charming small town of Cividale del Friuli, TRIESTE
TRIESTE
Basovizza
with its 8th-century Tempietto Longobardo KEY Piran, P Basovizza
Piran, Porec, Rovinj,orec, Rovinj,
Drive route Durr Durreses
Take a walk in the footsteps of Austrian poet Rainer Maria Rilke, Muggia
Muggia
along the cliffs at Duino
Spend a day exploring in Trieste’s “museum quarter”
106-107_Back_Roads_Northern_Italy.indd 106 21/09/17 11:17 am

DRIVE 10: Mountains and Lakes 107

PLAN YOUR DRIVE
0 kilometres 10
0 miles 10 Start/finish: Laghi di Fusine to Trieste.
MALBORGHETTO Camporosso
MALBORGHETTO Camporosso
Pontebba
Pontebba Ugovizza in Valcanale Fusine in Number of days: 5 days, including half
Ugovizzain Valcanale
Fusine in
Valromana
Valromana
Podkoren
Bevorchianschians
Bevor Podkoren a day for Udine; 1 day for touring the
M. Sernio
M. Sernio
TARVISIO
2190m
2190m TARVISIO wine regions and a day in Trieste.
Kranjska Gora
VALBRUNA Kranjska Gora
VALBRUNA
Grauzária
Grauzária Dog Dognana Distance: 270 km (168 miles).
LAGHI DI
2197m Cave d. LAGHI DI
Cave d.
2197m
FUSINE
Móggio Predil Predil FUSINE
Móggio
Jôf di Montasio
Udinese Chiusaf
Udinese Chiusaforteorte Jôf di Montasio Passo d. Road conditions: The road to the
Passo d.
2755m
2755m
Predil Predil Laghi di Fusine is easy to drive as most
Saletto
Log pod
Amaro
Amaro Saletto Log pod of the Alpine routes are wide. Signage
Sella Nevea
Mangartom
Carnia Resiutta Sella Nevea Mangartom
Carnia Resiutta
1190m
1190m
Prato di is good but scarce around Gorizia and
Prato di
Resia Resia M. Canin Bovec Soča Soča on small vineyard roads. Snow chains
M. Canin Bovec
2587m
M. S. Simeone 2587m
M. S. Simeone
1506m VENZONE
1506m VENZONE are obligatory in winter.
Uccea
Uccea
Alesso
Alesso Musi Musi Žaga Žaga When to go: The Alpi Giulie’s autumn
SLOVENIA
Passo di
Passo di
Trasaghis
Trasaghis Gemona Tanamea SLOVENIA hues are glorious, while winter offers
Gemona
Tanamea
del Friuli
del Friuli Breginj endless opportunities for skiing. Udine
Breginj
Lusévera
Osoppo
Osoppo Lusévera
Kobar and the wine regions are best visited
Kobaridid
Robič
Artegna Platischis Robič Apr–Nov. Maritime Trieste can be mild –
Artegna
Platischis
Idrsko
Rívoli di Osoppo Tarcento Idrsko but also windy – at any time of the year.
Rívoli di Osoppo
Tarcento
Búia Búia Nimis
Nimis
Opening times: Shops tend to open
Masarolis
Púlfero Drenchia
Attimis Masarolis Drenchia
Attimis
Majano
Ragogna
Ragogna Majano Púlfero Volče Volče 9am–1pm and 4–7:30pm Mon–Sat
Tricésimo
San Daniele Tricésimo (food shops are shut Mon and Wed
San Daniele
Faédis
del Friuli
Savogna
del Friuli Faédis Savogna
Tavagnacco
Tavagnacco afternoon, all other shops are shut
S. Pietro al Natisone
Fagagna
Fagagna S. Pietro al Natisone Mon morning). Church and museum
Togliano
Rive Rive Togliano
d’Arcano
d’Arcano Martignacco Povoletto Soca ˘ Soca ˘ times vary, but are usually 9am–noon
Povoletto
Martignacco
CIVIDALE DEL FRIULI
Remanzacco CIVIDALE DEL FRIULI and 4–7 or 8pm. Many museums are
Remanzacco
Kanal Kanal
Pasian closed on Monday.
Pasian
Premariacco
COLLI ORIENTALI
di Prato Premariacco COLLI ORIENTALI
di Prato
UDINE Main market days: Tarvisio: daily;
UDINE
Deskie
Prepotto
Campoformido
Campoformido Prepotto Deskie
Buttrio
Basiliano
Basiliano Buttrio Natisone Natisone Dolegna del Collio Above Early autumn colours of Udine: Via Zanon, daily; Via Redipuglia,
Dolegna del Collio
S. Andrat
FRIULI-VENEZIA S. Andrat COLLIO: STRADA the lakeside woodlands around Sat; Cividale del Friuli: Sat; Cormòns:
FRIULI-VENEZIA
COLLIO: STRADA
GIULIA
GIULIA Pavia di Brazzano DEL VINO del Collio the Laghi di Fusine, see p108 Fri; Trieste: Wed.
DEL VINO San Floriano
San Floriano
Pavia di
Brazzano
del Collio
Udine
Zegla
Pozzuolo Udine Zegla Shopping: Look out for salt-cured,
Pozzuolo
Solkan
del Friuli
Codr Codroipooipo del Friuli Solkan
Russiz di Sotto Nova Gorica
Mortegliano Trivignano Russiz di Sotto Nova Gorica air-dried hams and salami throughout
Trivignano
Mortegliano
Passariano
CORMÒNS
Passariano Udinese CORMÒNS
GORIZIA
Udinese
Talmassons Capriva GORIZIA the region, and grappa and wines
Talmassons
Capriva
Palmanova
Palmanova del Friuli from the Collio and Colli Orientali.
del Friuli
Castiòns di Strada
Románs
Muscletto Castiòns di Strada Románs Črniče
Muscletto
Črniče
d’ Isonzo
Gonàrs d’ Isonzo Isonzo Isonzo
Gonàrs
˘
˘
Rivignano Gradisca Major festivals: Tarvisio: Krampus
Rivignano
Gradisca
Bagnária
d'lsonzo
Porpetto
Porpetto Bagnária d'lsonzo Dornberk (St Nicholas Eve), Dec; Udine: Friuli
Dornberk
Sagrado
Teòr Teòr Arsa Arsa Sagrado
Branik
Ruda Ruda Branik DOC food and wine, Sep–Oct;
Doberdo del Lago
Doberdo del Lago
S. Giórgio Temnica Cividale: Palio di San Donato
S. Giórgio
Temnica
di Nogaro Cervignano
Muzzana di Nogaro Cervignano Friuli V Štanjel (medieval festival), late Aug;
Muzzana
Štanjel
Friuli Veneziaenezia
del Friuli
Komen
Monfalcone
d. Turgnano del Friuli Giulia Monfalcone Komen
d. Turgnano
Giulia
Nogaro Trieste: Barcolana regatta, Oct;
Nogaro
Marano
Marano DUINO Gorjansko
DUINO
Gorjansko
Lagunare
Lagunare Áusa- Palio di Trieste: Carnevale, late Jan–
Áusa-
AQUILEIA
Corno AQUILEIA mid-Feb across Friuli.
Corno
Sistiana
Sistiana
Dutovlje
Dutovlje
Golf Golfo dio di
Belvedere
Belvedere Isonzo Aurisina
Aurisina
Panzano
Panzano
Isonzo
Laguna di Grado
Laguna di Grado
Grignano DAY TRIP OPTIONS
Grignano
Miramare
Golf Miramare Sežana
Golf oo
Sežana
Grado
Grado
di Villa Villa From Tarvisio, take cable cars to hilltop
di T r iesteT r ieste
Opicina
Opicina
churches and walk in the mountains.
TRIESTE
TRIESTE Explore ancient castles and towns
Basovizza
Basovizza
Piran, P rebuilt after earthquakes. See the
Piran, Porec, Rovinj,orec, Rovinj,
Durr Durreses Roman ruins in Aquiléia. Drive around
Muggia
Muggia
the vineyards of the Collio, before
visiting lively and cultured Trieste.
For full details, see p113.
106-107_Back_Roads_Northern_Italy.indd 107 21/09/17 11:17 am

108 BACK ROADS NORTHERN AND CENTRAL ITALY


1 Laghi di Fusine ª Take the SS13 in the direction of
Udine, Friuli-Venezia Giulia; 33018 Udine, and turn left onto Via Saisera
The two lakes of Fusine, the Lago and follow signs for Valbruna.
Inferiore and the Lago Superiore,
occupy a glacial basin set amid dense 3 Valbruna
forests of red fir trees, framed by Udine, Friuli-Venezia Giulia; 33010
curving hills and a crown of Alpine This delightful Alpine hamlet in the
summits. The colours of the mirror- Val Canale opens on to a beautiful
like surfaces of the lakes vary, as the world of mountain meadows and
seasons and light change. And in forests – habitats for roe deer and
autumn, the forests are ablaze with a myriad of birds. Throughout the
intense hues. Walk a circuit of the year, Valbruna is the place for nature
lakes on the Sentiero del Rio del Lago. lovers. A network of walking trails
ª Head on to the SS54, and follow leads into the valley, to mountain
the sign to Tarvisio. Parking in Tarvisio peaks and to the Santuario Monte
can be tricky as it gets extremely Lussari, located at an altitude of
busy – use on-street parking, which is 1,790 m (5,872 ft) (open daily Jun–
best at the northern end of town. early Oct). The walk to the sanctuary
takes about 3 hours; or you can take
2 Tarvisio the cable car from neighbouring
Udine, Friuli-Venezia Giulia; 33018 Camporosso. In winter, the plains of
Above The picturesque hamlet of Valbruna, in In the far northeast of Friuli-Venezia Valbruna transform into a fabulous
the shadow of the Alpi Giulie Giulia, where Italy, Slovenia and cross-country ski domain right
Austria meet, Tarvisio flies the flags alongside the village, with a huge
GETTING TO LAGHI DI FUSINE of the three border communities. network of trails extending through
Nestled in an amphitheatre of valleys the upper Val Saisera.
From Tarvisio, take the SS54 east and peaks, the town is charming and ª Return to the SS13, following
through Fusine in Valromana and then very Alpine-oriented – the local hero directions to Udine, then turn right
the small Via dei Laghi on the right
about 3.5 km (2 miles) to the two lakes. is Julius Kugy, who climbed the Alpi to reach Malborghetto.
Giulie (Julian Alps) in the early 1900s.
Ski outlets, hotels and smart food 4 Malborghetto
WHERE TO STAY shops line the main street. Udine, Friuli-Venezia Giulia; 33010
Alpine sports such as skiing, snow- The main street of Malborghetto is
TARVISIO boarding, dog-sledding and walking tucked along the edge of a valley
Edelhof moderate are the main attractions, so visit the that is skirted on both sides by a ridge
At the edge of a forest, this grand Tourist Office (Via Roma 14, 33018; 0428 of mountain peaks. A sign points out
residence has 17 rooms and a restaurant.
Via Diaz 13, 33018; 0428 400 81; 2135; www.tarvisiano.org) for information the village’s two main historic sights
www.hoteledelhof.it on these and other outdoor activities, – the 13th-century Santa Maria della
including a programme of guided Visitazione (open daily) on the town
VALBRUNA walks. Enjoy the village ambience and hall square near the Municipio or town
Valbruna Inn moderate the daily market in Piazza Mercato. hall and, down the street, the dashing
This cosy village inn has rooms that
look from flower-decked balconies on
to the Alpi Giulie. Via Alpi Giulie 2, 33010; Below Hotels with geranium-festooned balconies near the centre of Alpine Tarvisio
0428 660 554; www.valbrunainn.com
MALBORGHETTO
Casa Oberrichter
inexpensive–moderate
A hotel housed in a wood-beamed
15th-century palace with a restaurant.
Via Superiore 4, 33010; 0428 41888;
www.casaoberrichter.com
AROUND UDINE
La Faula inexpensive–moderate
This working farm, set in idyllic coun-
tryside, offers nine characterful rooms.
Via Faula 5, Ravosa di Povoletto, 33040
Udine (A23 exit Udine Nord in direction
of Tarvisio. From SS13 Pontebbana drive
towards Povoletto-Cividale. At round-
about, turn right to Povoletto); 333 171
9514; www.faula.com; closed Oct–Feb
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €100; moderate, €100–200; expensive, over €200


108-113_Back_Roads_Northern_Italy.indd 108 21/09/17 11:19 am
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DRIVE 10: Mountains and Lakes 109


6 Udine EAT AND DRINK
Friuli-Venezia Giulia; 33100
Midway between the mountains and TARVISIO
sea, Udine is a small powerhouse of Tschurwald moderate
art, architecture and gastronomy. An interesting mix of Austrian and
Start out from Piazza della Libertà, Italian food is on the menu here: home-
referred to the most beautiful made pasta, polenta with local cheese
Venetian square on dry land – the sauce and game dishes in season.
Via Roma 8, 33018; 0428 405 34;
city was conquered by Venice in closed Thu
1420 – ringed by fine 15th–17th-
century buildings whose façades MALBORGHETTO
are an elaborate lacework of arches Antica Trattoria Da Giusi moderate
and porticoes. Among these are the Savour cooking that reveals the strong
culinary link between Alpine Italy and
Venetian-Gothic Loggia del Lionello Austria – soups, air-dried meats, smoked
and the Renaissance Loggia di San pork with sauerkraut and desserts.
Above Fresco from the Duomo di Sant’Andrea Giovanni. The Torre dell’Orologio Via Bamberga 19, 33010; 0428 60014;
Apostolo, Venzone (clock tower), where the main castle www.dagiusi.it; closed Tue
gate once stood, is part of another VENZONE
17th-century Palazzo Veneziano, portico. From here, take the path to Locanda al Municipio
which houses the Museo Etnografico the old castle, whose Civici Musei di moderate–expensive
(closed Mon), an ethnographic Udine (closed Mon) houses valuable This restaurant in the heart of Venzone
museum with displays on geology, frescoes in the Galleria d’Arte Antica. if famous for its fish-based dishes and
prehistory, ethnology and forestry. Piazza Matteotti, with its 1543 seasonal homemade pasta.
ª Return to the SS13, following fountain, is the heart of the city’s Via Glizoio di Mels, 33010; 0432
985801; www.locandaalmunicipio.
directions to Udine. Turn off to elegant café and shopping zone – com; closed Mon
Venzone. Park outside the walls reached by the old market street,
or near Piazza Municipio. Via Mercatovecchio. Lastly, pass in AROUND VENZONE
front of the Palazzo del Comune and Hotel Ristorante Carnia expensive
5 Venzone head to the Piazza del Duomo to see This highly feted restaurant is bright
and contemporary, with a menu based
Udine, Friuli-Venezia Giulia; 33010 the Latin cross-shaped cathedral on seafood and classic Friulian dishes.
The medieval town of Venzone (open daily), whose foundations date Via Canal del Ferro 28, Loc. Carnia,
prospered due to its position on an to 1335. Masterful 18th-century 33010 (6 km/4 miles north of
old trading route linking the Veneto frescoes by Tiepolo can be seen in Venzone on SS13); 0432 978 013;
to Carinthia (Austria), Kranjska Gora the Museo Diocesano (closed Tue), www.hotelcarnia.it
(Slovenia) and Bavaria. In 1976, an housed in the Palazzo Arcivescovile UDINE
earthquake killed 3,000 people and (Archbishop’s Palace). La Ciacarade moderate
destroyed most of the town’s ª Take the SS54 northeast following This wood-beamed restaurant has a
buildings. However, the citizens signs for Cividale del Friuli. handful of tables plus a long bar. Enjoy
rallied and rebuilt them with smoked trout, cheese fritters with onion
and prosciutto cotto d’oca all’arancio –
meticulous care, skilfully renovating Below Statue of Heracles in the beautiful Piazza orange-flavoured goose prosciutto.
many medieval treasues – the town della Libertà, Udine Below right The decorated Via S Francesco 6/A, 33100; 0432 510
is now a historic monument. window of a lavender shop in Venzone 250; closed Sun & Tue dinner
Admire the walls, tower and old
gate, the Porta San Genesio, as well
as the loggia on Piazza Municipio,
whose excellent museum has
pictures and displays of Venzone
before and after the earthquake. The
14th-century Duomo di Sant’Andrea
Apostolo (open daily) is a noteworthy
Romanesque-Gothic edifice whose
interior is adorned with frescoes. Also
of interest is the Duomo’s chapel,
Cappella di San Michele, which
contains mummified corpses. On the
other side of the SS13, visit Bordano
and its delightful butterfly house
(Mar–Oct: open daily), home to more
than 400 species of butterfly.
ª Continue south on SS13 to Udine.
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€45; expensive, over €45


108-113_Back_Roads_Northern_Italy.indd 109 21/09/17 11:19 am

110 BACK ROADS NORTHERN AND CENTRAL ITALY


8 Colli Orientali
Friuli-Venezia Giulia
It is worth taking some time to explore
this lovely, hilly vineyard area between
Cividale del Friuli and Cormòns. Several
indigenous grape varieties – rarely
found elsewhere – are grown here.
Look out for the per fumed red
Schioppettino and deli cately sweet
Picolit, which can yield a dessert wine
of great finesse. At Prepotto, there
are two vineyards that offer a taste
of these exceptional wines – Vigna
Petrussa (Via Albana 47, 33040,
Prepotto; 043 271 3021; www.
vignapetrussa.it) and Le Due Terre (Via
Roma 68/B, 33040, Prepotto; 043 271
3189; www.schioppettinodiprepotto.it).
ª Continue on the small wine road
via Dolegna del Collio, Venco and
Brazzano to reach Cormòns.
Above left River Natisone, Cividale del Friuli 9 Cormòns
Top right Statues in the Tempietto Longobardo, 7 Cividale del Friuli Gorizia, Friuli-Venezia Giulia; 34071
Cividale del Friuli Right Piazza Paolo Diacono, Udine, Friuli-Venezia Giulia; 33043 Cormòns was part of the Habsburg
site of the daily market in Cividale del Friuli Set on the banks of the River Empire from 1497 to 1918, and its
Natisone, Friuli traces its name architecture and statue of Maximilian
and origin to a Roman fortification I in Piazza della Libertà are testimony
WHERE TO STAY that was built here in 53 BC and to its historical inheritance. The town
christened Forum Julii by Julius still toasts the Austrian Emperor
CIVIDALE DEL FRIULI Caesar. In AD 568, it became the Franz Joseph (1830–1916) on his
B&B Dai Toscans inexpensive capital of the feudal Duchy of birthday (Aug 18). The ruins of the
This central B&B has a stylish interior Lombard and later, like much of this Castello di Cormòns can be seen on
and serves up a delicious breakfast. region, fell under the dominion of the slopes of nearby Monte Quarin.
Corso Giuseppe Mazzini 15/1, 33043; the mighty Venetian Republic. The Today this small town, surrounded
0349 076 5288; www.daitoscans.it
town contains treasures from all of by vineyards, is the capital of the Collio
Locanda al Pomo d’Oro inexpensive these epochs concentrated around wine business. The Franco Toros (Loc.
Located in the centre of town, this its historic centre and the eclectic Novali 12, 34072; 048 1613 27; www.
modest hotel still serves its original
purpose of providing travellers with 15th–17th-century cathedral, Santa vinitoros.com) is a must-visit for wine
shelter, tasty food and good wine. Maria Assunta, in the Piazza del lovers. Cormòn’s long main street, lined
Piazzetta San Giovanni 20, 33043; Duomo. Take the cobbled lane with palaces and noble resi dences,
0432 731 489; www.alpomodoro.com through the oldest section of town, loops around from the Piazza XXIV
Locanda al Castello moderate past 14th-century houses, to the Maggio, home to the Palazzo Locatelli.
A 20-minute walk from the centre, this 8th-century frescoes and reliefs at This Palladian-style edifice houses an
family-run inn offers old-fashioned the Tempietto Longobardo. From the enoteca (wine shop), which showcases
charm with the amenities and
services of a luxury hotel. chapel, there are wonderful views of and serves local produce and wines.
Via del Castello 12, 33043; the Ponte del Diavolo and the Maps of wine routes are available here.
0432 733 242; www.alcastello.net aquamarine River Natisone. Nearby, ª Take Via Roma/SR409, turn right
the 16th-century Palazzo dei towards San Floriano in Localitá Zegla.
CORMÒNS Provveditori Veneti attributed to the
Agriturismo Domus Rustica master architect Andrea Palladio 0 Collio: Strada del Vino
inexpensive
Set in bucolic vineyards just 2 km houses the Museo Archeologico Gorizia, Friuli-Venezia Giulia; 34170
(1 mile) outside Cormòns. Nazionale (open daily). From the Collio is the colloquial name given to
Via Sottomonte 75, Brazzano 34071; museum, take the main street, Corso the sloping Isonzo hills to the north
0481 60288; www.domus-rustica.it Mazzini, up to the Piazza Paolo of Gorizia. Wedged between Cormòns
Albergo Ristorante Felcaro Diacono with its pretty fountain and a and the Slovenian border, this narrow
moderate myriad architectural styles. strip of land is a pleasant patchwork of
A fine, antique-filled villa with a ª Take the SR356 south, follow the vineyards, orchards and, more recently,
sauna, pool and tennis courts.
Via S Giovanni 45, 34071; signposts for Prepotto, travelling on olive groves. Follow the network of
0481 60214; www.hotelfelcaro.it SP352 and SR48. tiny roads forming the signposted
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €100; moderate, €100–200; expensive, over €200


108-113_Back_Roads_Northern_Italy.indd 110 21/09/17 11:19 am
Back Roads LAYERS PRINTED:
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DRIVE 10: Mountains and Lakes 111




EAT AND DRINK
CIVIDALE DEL FRIULI
Al Monastero moderate
Set in an old monastery, this eatery
offers classic Friulian dishes, including
top quality hams and salamis and a
good choice of home-made pasta and
meat dishes. Desserts include strucchi
(fruit- and nut-filled pastries).
Via Ristori 9, 33043; 043 270 0808;
Strada del Vino e delle Ciliegie (Wine a huge complex containing a winery, www.almonastero.com; closed Sun
eve & Mon
and Cherry Route). Between the a golf course and a hotel.
mountains and sea, the microclimate ª From Zegla, turn right towards Antica Osteria La Speranza
and “ponka” soils (marl, clay-limestone) Capriva del Friuli, cross Capriva’s expensive
This historic bar and osteria serves
help create many celebrated DOC centre turn right and after the railway traditional fish dishes with a modern
white wines – Pinot Grigio, Friulano, station turn left onto SR56 to Gorizia. twist. The blackboard menu is
Ribolla Gialla and Malvasia Istriana. complemented by a good wine list.
Maps, available by the roadside on q Gorizia Foro Giulio Cesare 15, 33043; 043 273
the way out of town and in tourist Friuli-Venezia Giulia; 34170 1131; closed Mon
brochures, mark out the wineries The 11th-century Castello di Gorizia AROUND COLLI ORIENTALLE
with tasting rooms. Pay close attention (closed Mon) hilltop district is an enclave Al Cjant dal Rusignul expensive
to the maps and signposts, as a of medieval architecture: the castle This attractive country restaurant is
wrong turn could lead to Slovenia. has glorious views. The nearby quarter renowned for its home-made pasta,
Follow signs to Russiz – where the of Santo Spirito is home to the Gothic mushroom and game. Good wine list.
Via Mernico, 8 34070 Mernico-Dolegna
vineyards are spread across the Chiesa di Santo Spirito and the Musei del Collio (just east of Prepotto); 048
hillsides. The splendid estate of Villa Provinciali (closed Mon), which houses 160 452; www.ferrucciosgubin.it;
Russiz (Via Russiz 4–6, 34070, Capriva displays on World War I and regional closed Mon–Wed
del Friuli; 0481 800 47; open Mon–Fri), history. In the mesh of medieval, CORMÒNS
founded in 1869 by French Count Baroque and 19th-century architecture Trattoria Al Cacciatore expensive
Theodore de la Tour, was one of the in the town below, there are walkways A local landmark, this upmarket
first wineries in Friuli to use French along the River Isonzo and fine villas restaurant prepares traditional dishes
vine varieties. The villa has tasting such as the Palazzo Coronini- with great finesse using the best local
rooms, a park, a chapel and a small Cronberg (closed Mon & Tue; Nov–Mar), ingredients. Località Monte 22, 34701;
mausoleum whose tiled cupola which is set in magnificent parklands. 048 160 531; www.lasubida.it; closed
Tue & Wed
perches above rows of vines. The ª Take the SS351 to Gradisca d’Isonzo
count’s wife had the mausoleum and continue to Cervignano del Friuli. AROUND CORMÒNS
built for him in 1894. From here, take the SS352 to Aquileia. Terra e Vini moderate
From Russiz, continue towards This beautifully renovated osteria has
Capriva del Friuli, stopping at Top Hillside vineyards along the wooded Strada an interesting menu with cold meats,
pasta and frico (fried cheese delicacy).
Castello di Spessa (open daily). This del Vino Below left Townhouses on the curving Via XXIV Maggio 34, 34071 Brazzano di
medieval castle was altered in the main street of Cormòns Below right The Cormòns; 048 160 028; www.terraevini.
1880s and is now the centrepiece of 11th-century Castello di Gorizia it; closed Sun eve & Mon, 3 wks Jan

















Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€45; expensive, over €45


108-113_Back_Roads_Northern_Italy.indd 111 21/09/17 11:19 am

112 BACK ROADS NORTHERN AND CENTRAL ITALY


VISITING TRIESTE
w Aquileia
Parking Friuli-Venezia Giulia; 33051
Narrow streets and a one-way system Founded as a Roman colony in 181 BC,
make driving in Trieste difficult. There Aquileia was the Roman capital of
are few car parks, although many Friuli and is now northern Italy’s most
hotels have undercover parking (at important archaeological site. The
extra cost). Park in the car park on
Riva Nazario Sauro or on-street in the attractive ruins include Roman houses,
residential area between the historic a forum and an impressive ruined
centre and the cathedral/castello. harbour. What was once a great town
Check that it is not a tow-away zone. with a population of 200,000 is now
There is a big paid parking area in home to a mere 3,500 people who
Molo IV and one near the station.
live by tending their vineyards or
Tourist information catering to the tourists who come to
Via dell’Orologio 1, angolo Piazza
dell’Unità; 040 347 8312; www. marvel at the mosaics. The best of
turismofvg.it these are in the basilica, whose e Duino
extraordinary floor mosaic of 700 sq Trieste, Friuli-Venezia Giulia; 34100
m (837 sq yards) is the largest early The star attraction here is the Castello
Christian mosaic in the West. Take a di Duino (www.castellodiduino.it;
circular walk on the Via Sacra to visit closed Tue), which has played host
WHERE TO STAY the excavations and the Museo to many illustrious guests in its time,
Archeologico Nazionale (www. notably the Austrian poet Rainer
TRIESTE museoarcheologicoaquileia.beni Maria Rilke (1875–1926). Do not miss
Hotel Albero Nascosto moderate culturali.it), a treasure trove of Roman the glorious gardens and the bunker
This small, charming hotel is part of artifacts, bas-reliefs and sculpture. constructed in 1943. To complete the
a project for the restoration of the ª Take the SS352 south to Grado, visit, take the panoramic 2-km (1-mile)
historic centre of Trieste. It has been then the SP19 towards Monfalcone. In long Rilke walk along the clifftops.
beautifully renovated using the best Monfalcone, take the SS14 to Duino. ª Take the coastal SS14 to Trieste.
quality materials and craftsmen.
Via Felice Venezian 18, 34124; 040
300 188; www.alberonascosto.it
Hotel Miramare moderate r Trieste
Near the Castello di Miramare, this grey Trieste, Friuli-Venezia Giulia; 34100
slate, metal and glass hotel is modernist
and minimalist. Rooms have sea-facing Once the third city of the Austrian Habsburg Empire, after Vienna and
terraces and high-tech facilities. There Prague, Trieste is now a cluster of Roman, eclectic-style, Art Nouveau
is also a beach bar and restaurant. and Neo-Gothic architecture. From the bay and waterfront promenades
Viale Miramare 325/1, 34136; 040 224
7085; www.hotelmiramaretrieste.it; to the top of San Giusto hill, Trieste retains an international atmosphere
closed mid-Nov–mid-Mar among the salty breezes washing in from the Adriatic.
0 metres 100 VIA TRENTO VIA FABIO SEVERO A two-hour walking tour
CORSO CAVOUR V I A VA L D I R I V O VIA SANTO SPIRIDONE VIA DEL CORONEO Novembre towards Piazza dell’Unità
From the car park, head up Riva 3
0 yards 100
dell’Italia 1. The grand sweep of
V I A M I L A N O
VIA ROMA Via Rossini VIA CESARE BATTISTI Palazzo del Lloyd Triestino – the
Comunale, Palazzo del Governo,
Canal Grande VIA ROSSINI VIA 30 OTTOBRE V I A façades includes the 1870 Palazzo
Canale
Grande
MO LO AU DAC E
Chiesa di shipping company’s headquarters –
V I A G E N O V A
Chiesa Greco-Ortodossa San Spiridione and Casa Stratti, home to Caffè degli
di San Nicolò VIA SAN NICOLÓ Specchi, an 1839 coffee house.
RIVA 3 NOVEMBRE Piazza dell’Unità Teatro Romano for maps, before heading northeast,
V I A G I U S E P P E M A Z Z I N I
VIA DANTE
PIAZZA
ALIGHIERI
Visit the Tourist Information Office
VERDI
CO RS O I TALIA
dell’Italia
VIA SAN LAZZARO G I O S U É C A R D U C C I
PIAZZA
VIA DI DONOTA
PICCOLA VIA DEL TEATRO ROMAN O V I A D E L MONT E through the small Piazza Verdi to the
bottom of Corso Italia, the main road
RIVA NAZARIO SAURO PIAZZA San Silvestro Arco di VI A DELLA CA T TEDRALE Tor Cucherna referred to locally as “Corso”. Cross
Chiesa di
V I A L U I G I C A D O R N A
over and take the small Via Cassa di
Monumento
Foro Romano
ai Caduti
VIA F VE N EZIAN
Risparmio to Via G Mazzini. Turn left
HORTIS
Castello di
VIA DELLA MADONNINA
Riccardo
San Giusto
3 Novembre: on the corner is the Neo-
Cattedrale di VIA CAPITO LINA and rejoin the waterfront avenue Riva
San Giusto Classical Chiesa Greco-Ortodossa di
VIA SAN MICHELE
San Nicolò 2. Continue along to the
VIA DE LLA GALLEIRA
picturesque warehouse-lined strip of
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €100; moderate, €100–200; expensive, over €200
108-113_Back_Roads_Northern_Italy.indd 112 21/09/17 11:19 am
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DRIVE 10: Mountains and Lakes 113

















Far left The clifftop Castello di Duino Centre
the Canal Grande 3: dug in 1756 to Giusto 0 (open daily). Across Piazza The 18th-century Canal Grande in Trieste
allow ships to unload inside the city. delle Cattedrale stands the Gothic Right Caffè degli Specchi, founded in 1839,
The canalside Via Rossini 4 is lined stone lacework and trilobite arches in Trieste’s Piazza dell’Unità dell’Italia
with restaurants, bars and markets, of the Cattedrale di San Giusto q, a
leading to Piazza Ponterosso. James fusion of two 15th-century churches EAT AND DRINK
Joyce’s statue adorns the bridge. The – hence its asymmetrical façade. AQUILEIA
Irish writer lived in Trieste for over a Look to the right of the rose window La Capannina moderate
decade. Cross the bridge to the Piazza for two huge cannon balls wedged Overlooking the ancient harbor of
Ponterosso and head for the church, into the wall. Head downhill on Via Aquileia, serving a variety of fish dishes
the Chiesa di San Spiridione 5, a della Cattedrale into suitably windy Via Gemina 10, Aquileia, 33051; 0431
Neo-Byzantine Serbian Orthodox Via della Bora (Northeast Wind Street) 91019; www.ristorantelacapannina.
net; closed Wed in winter
church. Take Via Dante Alighieri back and on to the Arco di Riccardo w, a
to the Corso Italia, and cross over to crumbling Roman gateway from the DUINO
the gaping pit of the Teatro Romano 1st century BC. Turn right and trace Sardoc moderate
6, a Roman amphitheatre built by the walls of the Chiesa Santa Maria Robust cuisine such as jota (a thick
Emperor Augustus around 30 BC. Maggiore perched on a ledge over cabbage, beans and potato soup),
The steps alongside the Teatro lead the old town – alongside the small followed by veal shanks and strudel.
Loc. Slivia 5, 34013 Duino-Aurisina;
to the Tor Cucherna 7, the ruins of a Chiesa di San Silvestro e. A wide 040 200 146; www.sardoc.eu; closed
medieval tower, with fantastic views stairway leads down to the Via del Mon–Wed
from the street above. From here, take Teatro Romano. Cross the street and TRIESTE
the Treppe Giuseppe Rota stair way for head back to Piazza dell’Unità past
the final climb up to the hilltop of San the pretty square of Piazza Piccola. Osteria da Marino moderate
This tavern serves Mediterranean staples
Giusto. Named after one of the city’s Museum lovers may wish to see the such as mozzarella with tomatoes and
patron saints, this area has Roman unofficial museum quarter – near Ligurian olives in a jovial ambience.
relics, medieval churches, public Piazza Hortis – with three museums: Via del Ponte 5/A, 34100; 040 366 596;
gardens and viewpoints. The piazza the Civico Museo di Storia ed Arte www.osteriadamarino.com; closed
around the Monumento ai Caduti 8, e Orto Lapidario (archaeology), the Sat & Sun lunch
a World War I memorial, is a popular Civico Museo di Storia Naturale Pepenero Pepebianco
romantic spot with terrific views. (natural history) and the Civico Ristorante expensive
Carry on through the colon naded Museo Sartorio (art and culture) This restaurant is modernist in food and
atmosphere, serving innovative dishes.
Foro Romano 9 and on to the (all closed Mon). Return to the car Via Rittmeyer 14/a, 34134; 040 760 0716;
14th–16th-century Castello di San park via Via F Venezian. www.pepeneropepebianco.it; closed Sun
DAY TRIP OPTIONS Archaeological sites Vineyards to the coast
The incredibly varied landscape gives See the beautiful piazza and From Gorizia q, visit Russiz and
a choice of three enjoyable day trip. frescoes of Udine 6, then drive Collio 0 winding through vineyards
Alpine village tour to Aquileia w to see its fantastic and stopping for a tasting on the
From Tarvisio 2, walk a loop of Roman remains and enjoy lunch. way to Cormòns 9. Then its off to
the Laghi di Fusine 1, then on to Finish the day at the architectural Trieste r and the coast for an
Valbruna 3, stopping to take the jewel of Trieste r. afternoon walk around the city and
cable car from Camporosso to Monte perhaps an evening’s entertainment.
Lussari, and finish in Malborghetto 4. Take SS352 from Udine to Aquiléia. Roads in the wine area are narrow and
Take SS54 east to reach the lakes, then Continue on SS352, left on to SS14 all winding: use the SS55, then the A4
SS13 west to the other alpine villages. the way along the coast to Trieste. (E70) to Trieste to save a little time.

Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€45; expensive, over €45


108-113_Back_Roads_Northern_Italy.indd 113 06/11/17 5:30 pm

BRNI_114-115_OpnDrv11.indd 114 02/09/14 2:16 PM

DRIVE 11





Milan
Turin
IT AL Y
Genoa Bologna
Florence
Perugia
Rome



The Veneto

Plain


Verona to

Venice




Highlights
• Romantic Renaissance city
Soak up the atmosphere in beautiful
Verona, the setting for Shakespeare’s
tale of hapless love, Romeo and Juliet
• A Baroque garden masterpiece
Wander around Valsanzibio’s strictly
ordered hedges, lawns and paths,
virtually unchanged since the 1670s
and set in idyllic countryside
• An ancient city, full of young life
Visit Padua’s Basilica di Sant’Antonio,
the university where Galileo taught
and a medieval marketplace – all
infused with the buzz of student life
• Timeless city of bridges
Explore magical, waterborne Venice,
where the grand palaces, churches,
museums and squares are joined by
a labyrinth of alleyways and canals


Basilica di Santa Giustina, Padua, seen across
Prato della Valle




BRNI_114-115_OpnDrv11.indd 115 02/09/14 2:16 PM

116 BACk RoAds noRTHERn And CEnTRAL ITALy

The Veneto Plain

The great Veneto plain is dotted with some of Italy’s most magnificent cities and
impressive fortified medieval towns, filled with priceless artworks and architecture. These
cultural treasures are further enhanced by their exquisite natural setting among the
rolling Euganean Hills, the lush Riviera del Brenta and the Venetian Lagoon.
Meandering roads lead to rustic-style restaurants, and spa resorts that have been
popular since Roman times. Padua’s world-class art and serene churches and gardens
bustle with youthful excitement, thanks to its student population. The winding Riviera
del Brenta is a natural and architectural delight, famous for its Palladian villas – country
homes for the Venetian nobility. The drive’s conclusion is magical Venice, its Grand Canal
lined with palaces. Although it’s busy with visitors year round, it is simply unmissable.


Key
Salzano Trivignano
Salzano
Trivignano
Drive route Fávaro
Fávaro
Maerne
Maerne Véneto
Véneto
Veternigo
Villanova Veternigo
Villanova
Spinea
Tessera
di Camposampiero Spinea Tessera
di Camposampiero
Mestree
Mirano
S. Maria
S. Maria Mirano Mestr
Limena
Caltana
in Stelle Limena Caltana
in Stelle
Montecchia
Mezzane
Quinto di Mezzane Montecchia Térgola Térgola Murano
Quinto di
Murano
di Crosara
Scaltenigo
di Sotto
Valpantena
Montebello
Valpantena di Sotto di Crosara Montebello Grisignano Scaltenigo
Grisignano
Vigodarzere
Vicentino
Oriago
Roncà
Marghera
Mizzole Illasi Illasi Roncà Vicentino di Zocco Vigodarzere Vigonza Pianiga Oriago Marghera
di Zocco
Mizzole
Pianiga
Vigonza
VENICE
Terrossa
Malcontenta
Ponterotto
Montório
Montório Costalunga Terrossa Vò Vò Bacchiglione Montegalda Ponterotto Fiesso Malcontenta VENICE
M o n t i B é r i c i
Costalunga
Fiesso
Costeggiola
Costeggiola Meledo r i c i Nanto Mestrino d’Ártico Mira Mira Fusina Lido Lido
Nanto
Bacchiglione Montegalda Mestrino
Fusina
d’Ártico
Monteforte
S. M S. Martinoartino Colognola Monteforte Meledo Barbar Dolo Dolo
Colognola
Barbaranoano
Cervarese
Paluello
Paluello
ai ColliSoave d’Alpone
VERONA Buon A ai Colli Soave d’Alpone Sarego t i B é Vicen Vicentinotino Cervarese Noventa Strà RIVIERA DEL BRENTA Laguna
Buon Albergolbergo
VERONA
Laguna
Noventa Strà
S. Croce
S. Croce
RIVIERA DEL BRENTA
Véneta
Véneta
Padovana
Guà
Tencarola
PADOVA
Saccolongo
S. Germano
Lóbia Lóbia Guà Sarego S. Germano Saccolongo Tencarola PADOVA Padovana
(PADUA)
Caldiero S. Bonifacio M o n dei Bérici Ponte Ponte Bastía (PADUA) Fossò Fossò Lugo Lugo
dei Bérici
Caldiero S. Bonifacio
Bastía
Lonigo
S. Biagio
S. Giovanni
S. Giovanni Lonigo di Barbarano S. Biagio Ponte Ponte Saonara
Saonara
di Barbarano
ABBAZIA DI
Zévio
Lupatoto
Lupatoto Zévio ABBAZIA DI
S. Nicolò
Salboro
Bel ore
Alonnte
S. Stefano
Ca’di Ca’di Bel ore S. Stefano Alonnte Albettone PRAGLIA Salboro S. Nicolò Brenta o la Cunetto Camponogara
Albettone PRAGLIA
Camponogara
Abano
Árcole
Sossano
Legnaro
David S. Maria Adige Adige Árcole Bagnolo Sossano Teolo Teolo Monteortone Abano Albignásego Legnaro Lupia Lupia
David
S. Maria
Bagnolo
Albignásego
Bonaldo
Monteortone Terme
Terme
Álbaro Bonaldo Orgiano Lova
Álbaro
Orgiano
Brenta o la Cunetto Lova
VENETO
Torréglia
Raldòn VENETO M. Venda Torréglia Vigorovea Campolongo
Raldòn
Vigorovea
Campolongo
M. Venda
Casalserugo Masera di
Agugliaro
Maggiore
Vallese Palù Palù Alberedo Cag Cagnanonano Agugliaro 601m 601m Galzig Casalserugo Masera di Maggiore
Vallese
Alberedo
Galzignanonano
Pádova
Colognana
Parco Reg. dei dei
d’Adige Veronella Colog Parco Reg. Terme Pádova
d’Adige
Veronella
Véneta
Terme
Colli Eugánei
Colli Eugánei
Menago
Menago
Oppeano
Oppeano Sabbiòn Véneta Nov Noventaenta VALSANZÍBIO
Sabbiòn
VALSANZÍBIO
Bovolenta
Pressana
Villafontana
Villafontana Pressana Vicen Vicentinatina Bovolenta
ARQUÀ PETRARCA
ARQUÀ PETRARCA
Roverchiara
Tarmassia Roverchiara EUGANEAN HILLS
Tarmassia
EUGANEAN HILLS
Bovolone
Bovolone Frássine Baone
Baone
Frássine
Monsélice
Bevilácquaqua
S. Pietro di
S. Pietro di Bevilác Salett Salettoo Monsélice Vanz Vanzoo
ESTE
Minerbebe
Morúbio Miner ESTE
Morúbio
MONTAGNANA
Ang Angiariiari MONTAGNANA
Mar Maregaega Megliadino S. Élena
S. Élena
Megliadino
S. Vitale
Cárceri
S. Vitale Cárceri
Mer Merlaralara
ACTIVITIES
Experience the thrill of live opera in Verona in the wonderful
Roman arena (www.arena.it)
Ramble or ride on the pathways and cycle tracks in the lovely
Euganean Hills
Find peace and spiritual calm on an overnight stay at the
Abbazia di Praglia
Take a leisurely boat trip on the Riviera del Brenta and admire
its architectural wonders (www.ilburchiello.it)
Go island hopping in Venice’s lagoon
Left Cyclists negotiating the winding streets of Arquà Petrarca, see p119
BRNI_116-117_ItinDrive11.indd 116 02/09/14 2:09 PM

DRIVE 11: The Veneto Plain 117


PLAN YOUR DRIVE
Start/finish: Verona to Venice.
Number of days: 4, allowing a full day
for the Euganean Hills, half days for the
smaller towns and a full day for Venice.
Distance: Approx 153 km (95 miles).
Road conditions: A mix of hilly
and flat roads makes for easy-to-
medium drives.
When to go: Visits are feasible year
round, though spring (Mar–May) and
autumn (Sep–Oct) are best for more
Above Driving through the Euganean Hills, see p118 pleasant temperatures. The foothills
and plain can get hot during Jul–Aug,
Salzano
Salzano Trivignano Fávaro
Trivignano
Fávaro
Maerne
Maerne Véneto while fog is not uncommon in winter.
Véneto
Veternigo
Villanova
Villanova Veternigo
Spinea
Tessera
di Camposampiero Spinea Tessera Opening times: Shops tend to open
di Camposampiero
Mestree
Mirano
S. Maria Mirano Mestr 9am–1pm and 3–7pm Mon–Sat. Villa
S. Maria
Limena
Caltana
in Stelle
in Stelle Limena Caltana
Montecchia
Quinto di Mezzane Montecchia Térgola Térgola Murano opening hours differ; some are closed
Quinto di
Mezzane
Murano
di Crosara
Scaltenigo
di Sotto
Valpantena di Sotto di Crosara Montebello Grisignano Scaltenigo
Valpantena
Montebello
Grisignano
Vigodarzere
Vicentino
Roncà
Oriago
Marghera
di Zocco
Mizzole
Mizzole Illasi Illasi Roncà Vicentino di Zocco Vigodarzere Vigonza Pianiga Oriago Marghera on Mondays and the gardens usually
Pianiga
Vigonza
VENICE
Terrossa
Ponterotto
Malcontenta
Montório Costalunga Terrossa Vò Vò Bacchiglione Montegalda Ponterotto Fiesso Malcontenta VENICE close early in winter.
Montório
Costalunga
M o n t i B é r i c i
Fiesso
Costeggiola Meledo r i c i Nanto Mestrino d’Ártico Mira Mira Fusina Lido Lido
Costeggiola
Nanto
Bacchiglione Montegalda Mestrino
d’Ártico
Fusina
Monteforte
Colognola
S. M S. Martinoartino Colognola Monteforte Meledo Barbar Dolo Dolo Main market days: Montagnana:
Barbaranoano
Cervarese
Paluello
Paluello
ai ColliSoave d’Alpone
VERONA
VERONA Buon A ai Colli Soave d’Alpone Sarego t i B é Vicen Vicentinotino Cervarese Noventa Strà RIVIERA DEL BRENTA Laguna Thu; Este: Sat; Padua: Mon–Sat;
Buon Albergolbergo
Laguna
Noventa Strà
S. Croce
S. Croce
RIVIERA DEL BRENTA
Véneta
Véneta
Padovana
Guà
Tencarola
PADOVA
Saccolongo
S. Germano
Lóbia Lóbia Guà Sarego S. Germano Saccolongo Tencarola PADOVA Padovana Venice: Mon–Sat.
(PADUA)
dei Bérici
Caldiero S. Bonifacio M o n dei Bérici Ponte Ponte Bastía (PADUA) Fossò Fossò Lugo Lugo
Caldiero S. Bonifacio
Bastía
S. Biagio
Lonigo
S. Giovanni Lonigo di Barbarano S. Biagio Ponte Ponte Saonara Shopping: Look out for ceramics in
S. Giovanni
Saonara
di Barbarano
ABBAZIA DI
Zévio
Lupatoto Zévio ABBAZIA DI
Lupatoto
S. Nicolò
Bel ore
Alonnte
Salboro
S. Stefano
Albettone PRAGLIA
Ca’di Ca’di Bel ore S. Stefano Alonnte Albettone PRAGLIA Salboro S. Nicolò Brenta o la Cunetto Camponogara Este, local delicacies (wine, honey,
Camponogara
Abano
Sossano
Árcole
David
David S. Maria Adige Adige Árcole Bagnolo Sossano Teolo Teolo Monteortone Abano Albignásego Legnaro Lupia Lupia jujube or giuggiole) in the Euganean
Legnaro
Bagnolo
S. Maria
Albignásego
Bonaldo
Terme
Monteortone Terme
Álbaro Bonaldo Orgiano Lova
Álbaro
Orgiano
Brenta o la Cunetto Lova
VENETO
Raldòn VENETO M. Venda Torréglia Vigorovea Campolongo Hills and handicrafts (glass, paper,
Raldòn
Vigorovea
Torréglia
Campolongo
M. Venda
Agugliaro
Casalserugo Masera di
Maggiore
Vallese
Vallese Palù Palù Alberedo Cag Cagnanonano Agugliaro 601m 601m Galzig Casalserugo Masera di Maggiore jewellery) in Venice.
Alberedo
Galzignanonano
Colognana
Pádova
d’Adige
Parco Reg. dei dei
d’Adige Veronella Colog Parco Reg. Terme Pádova
Veronella
Véneta
Terme
Colli Eugánei
Colli Eugánei
Oppeano
Menago
Menago
Oppeano Sabbiòn Véneta Nov Noventaenta VALSANZÍBIO Major festivals: Verona: opera season
Sabbiòn
VALSANZÍBIO
Bovolenta
Pressana
Villafontana
Villafontana Pressana Vicen Vicentinatina Bovolenta Jun–Aug (www.arena.it); Montagnana:
ARQUÀ PETRARCA
ARQUÀ PETRARCA
Roverchiara
Tarmassia
Tarmassia Roverchiara EUGANEAN HILLS antiques market, every 3rd Sun Oct–
EUGANEAN HILLS
Bovolone
Bovolone Frássine Baone 0 kilometres 10 May; Palio dei 10 Comuni (medieval
Baone
Frássine
Monsélice
S. Pietro di
Bevilácquaqua
S. Pietro di Bevilác Salett Salettoo Monsélice Vanz Vanzoo horse race and pageantry festival),
ESTE
Minerbebe
Morúbio Miner ESTE 0 miles 10 Aug–Sep (www.palio10comuni.it);
Morúbio
MONTAGNANA
Ang Angiariiari MONTAGNANA Venice: Carnival, Feb–Mar; Film
Mar Maregaega Megliadino S. Élena Festival, Aug–Sep; Regata Storica,
Megliadino
S. Élena
S. Vitale
Cárceri
S. Vitale Cárceri
Mer Merlaralara 1st Sun in Sep; Biennale Art, Jun–Nov
Below View across Prato della Valle in Padua, see p119
in odd-numbered years (www.
labiennale.org).
DAY TRIP OPTIONS
Those with an interest in the
performing arts will love a day in
Verona with Juliet’s famous balcony
and an amphitheatre, home to open-
air opera. Magical Venice rewards
lovers of art – modern as well as
classical – with a wealth of museums,
galleries and churches full of priceless
works. A foray into the Euganean Hills
will delight lovers of rural landscapes,
elegant gardens and pretty abbeys.
For full details, see p121.
BRNI_116-117_ItinDrive11.indd 117 02/09/14 2:09 PM

118 BACK ROADS NORTHERN AND CENTRAL ITALY


















Above left The Castello di San Pietro, on a hill
above Verona Above centre Giardini Dell’ 1 Verona Padua). At a medieval tower on the
Arena, in the heart of Padua Above right Veneto; 37100 right, turn left into Via Augustea. At the
Padua’s 13th-century Basilica di Sant’Antonio Top of most visitors’ list is the romantic crossroads, turn right into Via Schiavin
shrine Juliet’s House (Casa di Giulietta; to car park No.3 (Castello), in Via Vigo
VISITING VERONA 27 Via Cappello), the so-called home di Torre, just past the Tourist Office.
Visitor Information of the tragic heroine of Shakespeare’s
Via degli Alpini 9, 37100; 045 806 8680; drama. Close by is the impressive 3 Este
www.tourism.verona.it Roman arena, where crowds once Veneto; 35042
gathered to watch gladiator action Once the capital of the pre-Roman
WHERE TO STAY and, today, watch open-air opera. Veneti, Este was absorbed into the
Over the river are the Renaissance Roman Empire before being razed
VERONA Giardino Giusti (1580), with its hedges to the ground by Attila the Hun. The
Hotel Aurora moderate and paths, as well as the Museo Storia town rose again under local nobility,
This hotel has a lovely roof terrace Naturale (closed Fri), with displays of the Signori d’Este, who constructed
overlooking the central square. fossilized crocodiles and palm trees. its imposing castle (open daily). In
Piazzetta XIV Novembre 2, 37121;
045 594 717; www.hotelaurora.biz Climb up to Castello di San Pietro for 1405 it came under the protection of
glorious views of the city. West of the the Venetians. The Museo Nazionale
Hotel Torcolo moderate centre, San Zeno Maggiore Atestino (closed Mon) has evi dence
This charming, family-run place is in
a quiet street, but close to the arena. (1138) is a superb example of of this turbulent history. Este also
Vicolo Listone 3, 37121; 045 800 7512; Romanesque architecture. has a tradition of fine porcelain,
www.hoteltorcolo.it; closed end Jan–Feb ª Leave on SS11 east (signed especially good-quality hand-
MONTAGNANA Venezia) across river Adige. At decorated pieces.
Hotel Aldo Moro moderate San Bonifacio, turn right to SP7 ª Carry on along the walls to a
This provides top service and spacious through Arcole, Cologna Veneta roundabout and take 2nd right
rooms, as well as a delicious breakfast. and on to Montagnana. Follow onto SP6. Follow signs for Baone,
Via G Marconi 27, 35044; 0429 81351; signs to “stazione” and car park. then SP21 into the Euganean Hills.
www.hotelaldomoro.com; closed
2 wks Jan & 1–20 Aug
2 Montagnana 4 Euganean Hills
ESTE Veneto; 35044 Veneto
Agriturismo Barchessa moderate Before entering the town, The Colli Euganei is an area
Four self-catering apartments make up wander along the grassy Statue at the Casa di of beautiful rolling hills
this 18th-century villa. moat to admire the sturdy, Giulietta, Verona cloaked in woods full of wild
Via Cappuccini 9, 35042; 333 391 4733;
www.agriturismobarchessa.com red-brick castellated walls boar and deer. The volcanic
and 24 defensive towers erected by origins of these hills means fertile soil
ARQUÀ PETRARCA the town’s rulers between the 14th for crops and vines, and quarries that
Alloggio Franciscus Agriturismo and 18th centuries. All four massive yielded the trachyte used for paving
inexpensive gateways lead to the main square and the streets of Venice. Wildflowers
These are country-style rooms
in restructured farm buildings. 15th-century Duomo, which holds abound and there are special pock-
Via Valleselle 20, 35032; 0429 718 245; works by Renaissance masters Paolo ets, such as Monte Ceva, where mini
www.enotecadaloris.it Veronese and Giorgione. Be sure to prickly pears grow. Rewarding walks
try the local prosciutto and, perhaps, abound (for maps of routes – in
PADUA the stracotto d’asino (donkey stew). Italian – visit www.parcocollieuganei.
Albergo Verdi moderate
A central hotel with bright rooms. ª From the car park, turn right along com). At the foot of the hills are spa
Via Dondi dell’Orologio 7, 35139; 049 the walls. Around the corner, turn right resorts such as Abano and
836 4163; www.albergoverdipadova.it at the traffic lights on the SR10 (towards Montegrotto Terme.
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €100; moderate, €100–€200; expensive, over €200

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DRIVE 11: The Veneto Plain 119


ª Once in the hills, follow one of many 7 Abbazia di Praglia
signs to Arquà Petrarca along winding Teolo, Veneto; 35037
roads. Follow sign for “Arquà Alta: This pretty Benedictine abbey (closed
centro storico” up the hill to the car park. Mon; www.praglia.it), set in gorgeous
countryside, was founded in the 11th
5 Arquà Petrarca century and renovated in the 15th and
Veneto; 35032 16th centuries. A monk-led tour reveals
This utterly charming town – with how the brothers restore ancient
steepish, paved streets leading past books and grow herbal products for
Venetian-Gothic stone palaces – is sale along with cosmetics and honey.
named after the great medieval Italian It is possible to stay here overnight.
poet Petrarch, who spent his final ª Drive north to SP89, turn right to join
years here. Visit his lovely house, Casa SS250. Through Tencarola, head into
di Petrarca (closed Mon), which has his Padua (around SR47), right on Via
mummified pet cat on display. Shops Castelfidardo, then right on Via Cernia, Above Cappella degli Scrovegni, Padua,
sell giuggiole (the jujube fruit) steeped and left to park at Prato della Valle. Giotto’s masterpiece Below left Prato della
in liqueur as well as local wines. Valle, Padua, Italy’s largest square Below
ª Head in the direction of Padua on 8 Padua (Padova) right The thickly wooded Euganean Hills
the SP16 and, 2 km (1 mile) on, branch Veneto; 35100
left onto the SP25 for Valsanzibio. There’s plenty to see here, from the
Park outside the villa’s entrance. Prato della Valle – Italy’s largest square VISITING PADUA
– to the country’s second-oldest Tourist Information
6 Valsanzibio university, the Palazzo del Bo, founded Galleria Pedrocchi, 35100; 049 820
Veneto; 35030 in 1222 and visited on a fascinating 1676; www.turismopadova.it
Spend an afternoon exploring these guided tour (Mon–Sat) that takes in
exquisite Baroque gardens (open Galileo’s rostrum and a 16th-century
Mar–Nov; www.valsanzibiogiardino.it) anatomy theatre. A short stroll away EAT AND DRINK
created in 1669 for the Venetian is Piazza delle Erbe, where a market VERONA
noble Zuane Francesco Barbarigo (Mon–Sat) is held. Nearby, too, is the Antica Bottega del Vino expensive
on shady terraces that appear to Duomo, partly built to a plan by Try the risotto all’Amarone, a rice dish
grow out of the hillside. Fountain Michelangelo, and frescoed baptistry. with the robust local Amarone wine.
after fountain is draped with Classical Don’t miss the gardens of the Orto Via Scudo di Francia 3, 37121; 045 800
allegorical statues, and water games Botanico (closes 3pm in winter), close 4535; www.bottegavini.it; closed Sun
Nov–Mar
amuse young and old alike, as does to the Basilica di Sant’Antonio, a
a maze of box shrubs. The house, major destination for pilgrims. Padua’s MONTAGNANA
Villa Barbarigo, is of a simple design major art attraction is the Cappella Il Ristorante Aldo Moro inexpensive
compared to the gardens. degli Scrovegni (advance booking The mouthwatering dishes include
ª Continue north on SP25 to essential; 049 201 0020; www. tortellini con zucca (pumpkin-filled
pasta) and oca al forno (baked goose).
Galzignano Terme. Turn left to a cappelladegliscrovegni.it), with Giotto’s Via G Marconi 27, 35044; 0429 81351;
T-junction and left again on SP99, then lyrical 14th-century frescoes of Bible www.hotelaldomoro.com; closed Mon
right for the winding ascent of Monte stories – a masterpiece of Western art. EUGANEAN HILLS
Venda, the highest Euganean Hill. Then ª Backtrack a little and follow signs to
carry on the descent into Torreglia, head the “tangenziale” northeast. After the Rifugio Re del Venda inexpensive
Enjoy grilled meats in a shady courtyard
left (towards Padua), turn left to Tealo, IKEA exit, follow signs for Venezia and at this country-style restaurant.
and follow signs for Praglia. SS11, turn left and follow signs to Stra. Via San Pietro 35, loc. Sottovenda,
Cinto Euganeo; 0429 94122; closed Mon
ARQUÀ PETRARCA
La Montanella moderate
Try the risotto alla quaglia (quail) and
papera alla frutta (duck baked with
fruits) followed by dessert.
Via dei Carraresi 9, 35032; 0429 718
200; www.montanella.it; closed Tue
eve, Wed & 6–16 Jan
PADUA
Ristorante Antico Brolo moderate
The signature food here is Fantasia di
baccalà, a special salt cod dish.
Corso Milano 22, 35139; 049 664 555;
www.anticobrolo.it; closed Mon lunch
& 1 wk Aug




118-121_Back_Roads_Northern_Italy.indd 119 21/09/17 11:19 am

120 BACK ROADS NORTHERN AND CENTRAL ITALY


9 Riviera del Brenta the Marghera industrial build-up, fork
Veneto; 30039 right across the canal for Malcontenta
The Brenta canal is lined with a (the villa’s nickname), then follow
number of splendid, elegant villas in signs to Villa Foscari, designed by
Neo-Classical and Renaissance styles. Andrea Palladio in 1555 (041 5470
Owned by Venetian nobility from the 012; www.lamalcontenta.com; open
1300s, they are a window into a long- May–Oct Tue–Sat, morning only). For
vanished lifestyle. Just across the more villas, see www.riviera-brenta.it.
River Brenta, off the main road (SR11) ª From Villa Foscari, follow the river
and set in lush parkland, the grandest southeast to Fusina. Park and catch the
is the magnificently porticoed Villa ferry to Venice. Or, return to SR11 and
Pisani (Via Doge Pisani 7; 049 502 074; pass through Marghera, then cross the
www.villapisani.beniculturali.it; closed causeway to Venice. Park at Tronchetto
Mon), which has a wonderful maze, (to the right) or Piazzale Roma (straight
and frescoes by Tiepolo. Just before on). Take a vaporetto into the city.

0 Venice
Veneto; 30100
Above Grand Canal and the Church of Santa A whole city floating on a lagoon, Venice is a magical combination
Maria della Salute, Venice of grand palazzos, magnificent churches and ordinary houses amid
a network of age-old alleyways and canals. Museums and art
VISITING VENICE
galleries attest to the city’s glorious past, when it was a wealthy
For information on getting to and superpower. A stroll through some of the quieter sestieri (districts)
around Venice, see www.hellovenezia.it.
It is possible to tour the other islands in is the best way to gauge the pulse of this unique city.
the lagoon, such as Murano, Burano and
Torcello, by waterbus. A four-hour walking tour city’s 350 bridges, the 16th-century
Tourist Information From Tronchetto or Piazzale Roma, Ponte di Rialto 2. Spanning the
Giardini ex Reali, San Marco; 041 529
8711; www.turismovenezia.it catch a vaporetto (waterbus) down Grand Canal at its narrowest point,
the Grand Canal and alight at Rialto the bridge is lined with craft shops
Mercato 1, the commercial heart of and jewellers.
SHOPPING IN VENICE the city since medieval times, with Take the canalside walkway Riva del
For handmade paper, visit Rivoaltus pioneer private banks such as the Vin 3, where wine was once
(Ponte di Rialto, 11 San Polo, 30125) Banco Giro, dating back to 1157. It is unloaded. This is a perfect place to
or pick up Venetian velvet slippers at now a wine bar with a great canalside enjoy the bustling activity on the
Pied à Terre (Sottoportego di Rialto, terrace. Nowadays, Rialto is the site of Grand Canal – Venice’s 3.5-km (2-mile)
San Polo 60, 30125; www.piedaterre- a lively market (8am–1pm Mon–Sat). principal artery for goods, gondolas
venice.com). For a unique African
slant on Murano beads, visit Niang Close by is the most famous of the and all. Turn right into Rio Terà San
Moulaye (Salizada del Pignater, 3545
Castello 30122).
0 metres 500
WHERE TO STAY 0 yards 500 F DEL MEGIO Canale Grande CANNAREGIO CALLE STELLA
S T R A D A N O V A
RIVIERA DEL BRENTA Pizzale F. SS PICCOLO WIDMANN SESTIERA CANNAREGIO
Roma S CROCE S POLO CALLE
Hotel Villa Ducale moderate Rialto CALLE CASTELLI
Enjoy the waterside elegance at this Mercato SS G. CRISOSTOMO CALLE SCALETA
Ponte di
villa, set in gardens just beyond Dolo. F DEI TOLENTINI C DE MEZO C VITALBA C ZANE Campo San Rialto
Polo
Campo
Riviera Martiri della Libertà 75, Dolo dei Frari C DE MEZO RIVA DEL VIN
30031; 041 560 8020; www.villaducale.it CAMPO S ROCCO SALIZADA SAN LIO
Ponte CALE DE I’OVE RUGA GIUFFA
Canale Grande
VENICE CALLE LARGO San Polo
PONTE VINANTE
Fujiyama B&B moderate CROSERA Rio de la
Frescada
Find minimalist calm in this small but Palazzo S. MARCO Piazza
central hotel above an Asian tea house. Campiello dei Foscari CALLE DEL FRUTARIOL San Marco
Squelini
Calle Lunga San Barnaba 2727A, Museo del M
Settecento
Dorsoduro 310123; 041 724 1042; Ponte Veneziano SALIZADA SAN MOISE PIAZZA SAN ARCO
www.fujiyama.life SESTIERE DORSODURO San Barnaba GIARDINI EX REALI
Palazzina Grassi expensive DORSODURO Peggy Canale
Relax in the luxury of a Venetian palazzo FONDAMENTA BARBARIGO FMTA TOFETTI Guggenheim Punta Grande
Collection
set on the glorious Grand Canal. Gallerie PISCINA DEI FOMER della Dogana
Ramo Grassi 3247, San Marco 30124; dell’Accademia
041 528 4644; www.palazzinag.com
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €100; moderate, €100–€200; expensive, over €200
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DRIVE 11: The Veneto Plain 121














Above left The Danieli Palace, one of Europe’s
Silvestro. This is San Polo, Venice’s Veneziano 9 (closed Tue). Cross Ponte most famous hotels Above centre Gondolas
smallest district, crammed with craft San Barnaba and the eponymous on Venice’s Grand Canal Above right One of
ateliers and shops, jewellers and square, and take Calle della Toletta to the arcades around Piazza San Marco, Venice
glassmakers. Following signs for the Gallerie dell’ Accademia 0 (closed
Ferrovia, turn left through Campo San Mon pm) in Campo della Carità. This
Aponal and on to Campo San Polo 4. former Palladian convent holds a
This spacious square once hosted priceless collection of 15th–18th
bullfights, but now is a favourite with century paintings by Titian, Carpaccio, EAT AND DRINK
local kids, who zoom about on their Giorgione and Bellini. Italy’s leading
bikes. During Venice’s prestigious gallery of early 20th- century art is RIVIERA DEL BRENTA
Film Festival, it is transformed into a nearby, after San Vio – the Peggy Osteria da Caronte moderate
huge open-air cinema. Guggenheim Collection q Enjoy traditional cuisine with a refined
touch at this riverside restaurant.
Pass the church and cross (closed Tue). Peggy’s former Via Dolo 29, Paluello di Stra, Dolo 30030;
Ponte San Polo to wind home, the Palazzo Venier dei 041 412 091; www.osteriadacaronte.it;
through the maze of alleys Leoni, houses key works by closed Tue eve, Wed, 2 wks Jan & Aug
from Campo San Tomà to Giacometti, Picasso and Pollock, Villa Nani Mocenigo expensive
Campo dei Frari 5. This square as well as a sculpture garden A sophisticated restaurant in a grand
is mostly taken up by the and terrace on the Grand Canal. villa on SR11 between Dolo and Mira.
towering brick Basilica di Santa From here, it is a short walk via Riviera Martiri della Libertà 113, 30031;
Maria Gloriosa dei Frari, the Campo della Salute to the old 041 560 8139; www.villananimocenigo.
it; closed Mon & Tue–Sat lunch
final resting place of the Mooring post, customs warehouse, reno-
Renaissance composer Claudio Grand Canal vated by Japanese architect VENICE
Monteverdi. Keep left to Tadao Ando into the gleaming Bar a Toletta inexpensive
Sotoportego San Rocco and over Rio Punta della Dogana w (closed Tue). It A humble snack bar frequented by
de la Frescada 6 into Dorsoduro. Turn now features contemporary works locals.Try the traditional venetian
left along Crosera San Pantalon, then from the collection of François Pinault. tramezzino (sandwiches).
Calle della toletta, 1191 Dorsoduro;
right, to cross the bridge to Palazzo Take the vaporetto from La Salute 0415 200 196
Foscari 7, possibly the birthplace of across to Venice’s famed Piazza San Osteria L’Orto dei Mori expensive
the great Doge Francesco Foscari Marco e and Doges’ Palace. If time An inventive Sicilian chef provides an
(r.1423–57). Continue through the allows, head out to the lagoon’s innovative take on local dishes.
peaceful square Campiello dei islands of Murano, Burano or Torcello Campo dei Mori, 3386 Cannaregio
Squelini 8 to Ca’ Rezzonico, a Gothic by vaporetto, otherwise return to 30121; 041 524 3677; www.
palace with the Museo del Settecento Piazzale Roma or Tronchetto. osteriaortodeimori.com; closed Tue,
2 wks Dec, 1 wk Jul & Nov
DAY TRIP OPTIONS back over and carry on to the Roman Basilica and Doges’ Palace. Hop on a
Verona and Venice deserve at least a arena, now a venue for open-air opera. vaporetto to get back to the car park.
day’s exploration, and the pretty Venice’s canalside treasures
Euganean Hills merit a day trip, too. Green delights
Take a vaporetto down Venice’s 0 From Este 3, drive into the Euganean
Performing arts in Verona Grand Canal to the Punta dell Dogana, Hills 4, through the vineyards, up to
In Verona 1, start at Piazza dei Signori then walk to the Peggy Guggenheim pretty Arquà Petrarca 5. Move on to
and Dante’s statue. Head to nearby Collection for modern art, before Valsanzibio 6 and its Baroque garden.
Juliet’s House and then cross the admiring the medieval works in the Lunch around Monte Venda, then on
River Adige to the Teatro Romano – Gallerie dell’Accademia. Lunch in a to Abbazia di Praglia 7.
where the Bard’s plays are still back-street osteria, then wander slowly
performed. Walk along the river to the to the Ponte di Rialto. Cross over and Follow the drive’s instructions to the
Ponte Scaligero footbridge. Cross walk to Piazza San Marco to see the Abbey, then return via SP89 and SP247.

Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€45; expensive, over €45


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DRIVE 12





Milan
Turin Venice
IT AL Y
Genoa Bologna
Florence
Perugia
Rome



Dolomites to

Veneto Hills


Cortina

d’Ampezzo

to Treviso



Highlights

• Alpine wonders
Explore the magnificent Dolomites,
which crown the fashionable resort
of Cortina d’Ampezzo
• Renaissance towns of the foothills
Visit superb Renaissance Feltre, utterly
charming Asolo and laid-back Bassano
del Grappa, set among rolling hills
• Scenic war memorial
Ascend to the sombre memorial at
Monte Grappa – a key battleground
of World War I in a spectacular setting
• Gourmet food
From Treviso’s radicchio and tiramisù
to Monte Grappa’s fiery spirit and
asparagus, enjoy treats galore



Charming Belluno, between the River
Piave and the Dolomites




BRNI_122-123_OpnDrv12.indd 123 27/10/11 6:01 PM

124 BACK ROADS nORTheRn AnD CenTRAl iTAly

Dolomites to Veneto Hills V a V a
l l
l l COR CORTINATINA Ansiei Ansiei
D´AMPEZZO
Rising to breathtaking heights in the far north of the Veneto THE CINQUE e d e D´AMPEZZO Stabiziane
THE CINQUE
Stabiziane
d
´
TORRI
´
Gruppo delle Marmarole
region are the inspiring Dolomites mountains – elegant pale Passo di TORRI A A Zuel Zuel Cimon del Froppa
Passo di
Cimon del Froppa
Falzaregoego
2932m
2932m
towers soaring above emerald meadows ablaze with brilliant Falzar M.Averau m p m p Tondi di Faloria Gruppo delle Marmarole
M.Averau
Tondi di Faloria
2648m
Domegge
wildflowers. Resort towns such as Cortina d’Ampezzo serve 2648m Passo Giau e z z o 3205m Domegge
3205m
Passo Giau
di Cadore
di Cadore
SAN VITOO
2236m
Calalzo
visitors in glorious summer as well as in winter, when the ski Selva Selva 2236m SAN VIT Calalzo Lago di Pie
e z z o
Lago di Pieveve
DI CADORE
di Cadore
DI CADORE di Cadore
di Cadoree
di Cadore
slopes are buzzing. This leisurely drive touches on traditional di Cadore di Cadore Borca Antelao Tai Tai PIEVE di Cador
Borca
Antelao
PIEVE
di Cadore 3264m
di Cadore
villages in picturesque spots that have inspired centuries of Colle Colle M. Pelmo Vodo Cadore 3264m di Cadore DI C DI CADOREADORE
S. Lucia
S. Lucia M. Pelmo
Valle di Piave
Vodo Cadore
3168m
artists, including Titian. A thrilling bonus is majestic Monte Alleghe 3168m Zoppé Boite Boite Valle di Piave Cima Monfalcon
Alleghe
Zoppé
Cadore
Cima Monfalcon
Cadore
di Cadore
Grappa (1,775 m/5,823 ft), all but unknown to overseas visitors. di Cadore 2548m
2548m
M. Civetta
At the lower altitudes, walled towns nestle into the rolling M. Civetta Zoldo Alto Sasso Cibiana Cima dei Preti
3220m
3220m
Cima dei Preti
Zoldo Alto
Sasso Cibiana
2703m
2703m
foothills, cloaked with vines and woodland. The drive concludes di Zoldo 2413m Rivalgo
Rivalgo
2413m
Forno
Forno
di Zoldo
in delightful Treviso, proud home of tiramisù and red chicory. Above Detail of the façade of the historic M. Moiazza Passo Ospitale
Ospitale
M. Moiazza Passo
di Cadore
2865m Duran
cathedral at Asolo, see p129 2865m Duran Mae Mae di Cadore
Passo di
Passo di
M. Tamer
M. Tamer S. Osv S. Osvaldoaldo Cimolais
Cimolais
2546m Castellavazzo
2546m
Castellavazzo
Agordo
Agordo Casso
Casso
Longarone Erto Erto
Longarone
La Valle Agordina
La Valle Agordina
Provagna
La Muda
La Muda Provagna
Frassene
Frassene
Monte Schiara
Rivamonte
Col Nudo
0 kilometres 10 Rivamonte Monte Schiara Col Nudo
2563m
2563m
Agordino 2472m
2472m
Agordino
La Stanga
Soverzene
Gosaldo La Stanga Soverzene
Gosaldo
San Martino
Titelle
0 miles 10 Titelle Monte Serva San Martino
Monte Serva
d’Alpago
2132m Polpet
2132m Polpet d’Alpago
Mis Gosaldo
Mis Gosaldo Pieve Pieve
Gares Gares Gena Gena Ponte d’Alpago Tesa Tesa Chies d’Alpago
Ponte d’Alpago
Passo di
Passo di nelle Alpi Chies d’Alpago
nelle Alpi
Monti del Sole
Monti del Sole
Cereda Gioz Gioz
Cereda
A l p a g o
Fiera di
Fiera di Mas Mas A l p a g o
Primiero
Imer Imer Primiero M. Pizocco Sospirolo Mis Bastia
Sospirolo Mis
Bastia
BELLUNOUNO
Mezzano
Mezzano M. Pizocco Vignole BELL Caleipo Farra Farra
Vignole
2188m
2188m
Caleipo
Visome
Sedico
Lago d’Alpago
Paderno Sedico Visome Lago d’Alpago
Paderno
Faverga di Sta Croce
Faverga
di Sta Croce
Meano
M. Pavione
Monte Croce M. Pavione Meano Sta Croce
Monte Croce
Sta Croce
2334m
2334m Cesiomaggiore Polentes
Cesiomaggiore
Polentes
NEVEGAL Fadalto
Passo Passo Santa Santa Trichiana NEVEGAL Fadalto
Giustina
Giustina
Trichiana
Aune Aune Croce Croce Pullir Pullir
Tassei
d’Aune
Moline
Moline d’Aune Piave Piave Mel Mel Tassei Col Visentin
Col Visentin
M. Pizzoc
Villabruna
1565m
1761m
1565m
Lamon Servo Servo Villabruna Lentiai Carve Carve Pranolz 1761m M. Pizzoc
Lamon
Pranolz
Lentiai
Pedavena FELTRE
Pedavena FELTRE Busche
Busche
Passo di
Fonzaso
Arina Arina Fonzaso Villapaiera Col de Moi Passo di Fregona
Villapaiera
S. Boldo
S. Boldo
Fregona
Col de Moi
Cáupo
Cáupo Anzù Anzù 1358m
1358m
Cismon
Cismon
Tovio Tovio VENETO Tovena Lago Lago Tarzo Tarzo Vitt Vittorio Venetoorio Veneto
VENETO
Tovena
M. Crep
Seren del
Above Dramatic landscape of the tree-covered Dolomites mountains, see pp126–7 Arsié Arsié Seren del Caorera M. Crep Cozzuolo
1349m
1349m
Caorera
Grappa
Grappa
Cozzuolo
Carpen
Follina
Below right View of the bridge designed by Palladio, Bassano del Grappa, see p128 Lago Lago Carpen M. Cesen Miane Follina Formeniga
del
del
Miane
M. Cesen
Formeniga
1570m
Sitzzon Chiesa
Enego Corlo Corlo Vas Vas 1570m
Enego
Nuova
Nuova
Combai
Casere Sitzzon Chiesa Combai Campea
Casere
Campea
Alano di
Stoner
Stoner Alano di
Piave
Piave
Valdobbiadene Pieve Pieve Conegliano
Valdobbiadene
Conegliano
di Soligo
Col d. Berretta di Soligo
Col d. Berretta
1448m
1448m
MONTE Pederobba
ACTIVITIES Brenta Brenta MONTE Pederobba Vidor Vidor Falze di Piave
Falze di Piave
GRAPPA
GRAPPA
Cavaso del Tomba
Susegana
Col Moschin
Col Moschin Cavaso del Tomba Crocetta Susegana
Crocetta
Possagno
1278m Possagno Nervesa Colfosco
1278m
Nervesa Colfosco
del Montello
Go mountain walking or rock climbing on clearly Castelcucco del Montello della Battaglia
Castelcucco
della Battaglia
signed routes in the Dolomites at Cortina Campolongo Borso Borso Nogarè del Montello
Giavera
Giavera
Campolongo
Nogarè del Montello
ASOLO
sul Brenta
d’Ampezzo sul Brenta ASOLO Caerano
Caerano
Romano
S. Michele
Pove del
Volpago del
Pove del Romano di San Marco Volpago del S. Michele
d’Ezzelino
Venegazzu Montello
Grappa d’Ezzelino di San Marco Venegazzu Montello di Piave
di Piave
Grappa
Spresiano
Clamber through World War i trenches at the Casella Spresiano
Casella
BASSANO
BASSANO
Montebelluna
Cinque Torri Key DEL GRAPPA San Zenone Altivole Montebelluna Povegiano i Ronchi
i Ronchi
San Zenone
Povegiano
Altivole
DEL GRAPPA
degli Ezzelini
Drive route degli Ezzelini Riese Riese
Hike through the Parco nazionale Dolomiti Pio X Pio X Caselle Postioma Paderno Vascon
Vascon
Caselle
Postioma
Paderno
Bellunesi near Belluno and Feltre Nove Nove Rosà Rosà Cassola Ponzano
Cassola
Ponzano
Porcellengo
Veneto
Veneto
Castione
Cartigliano Castione Vallà Vallà Porcellengo
Cartigliano
Carbonera
Vedelago
Explore the solemn memorial to the fallen of Rossola Vedelago Paese Carbonera
Paese
Rossola
TREVISO
World War i at Monte Grappa Tezze Tezze Veneto Cast Castelfrancoelfranco Istrana TREVISO
Veneto
Istrana
sul Brenta Venet Silea Silea
sul Brenta
Venetoo
Casacorba
Eat a bowl of creamy tiramisù in quiet Treviso, Casacorba Sile Quinto Treviso
Treviso-Sant’ Angelo-Sant’ Angelo
Quinto
Sile
di Treviso
the place where it was invented di Treviso Airp Airportort
BRNI_124-125_ItinDrive12.indd 124 02/09/14 2:09 PM

DRIVE 12: Dolomites to Veneto Hills 125

PLAN YOUR DRIVE
V a
V a
l l
l l COR CORTINATINA Ansiei Ansiei
e e D´AMPEZZO
THE CINQUE
THE CINQUE D´AMPEZZO Stabiziane Start/finish: Cortina d’Ampezzo
Stabiziane
d
TORRI
TORRI d ´ to Treviso.
´
Gruppo delle Marmarole
Passo di A A Zuel Cimon del Froppa
Passo di
Cimon del Froppa
Falzaregoego
Falzar m m Zuel 2932m
2932m
M.Averau p p Tondi di Faloria Gruppo delle Marmarole Number of days: 4 days.
M.Averau
2648m
2648m Tondi di Faloria Domegge
Domegge
3205m
Passo Giau e z z o 3205m di Cadore
Passo Giau
di Cadore
SAN VITOO
2236m
2236m SAN VIT Distance: 270 km (168 miles).
Calalzo
e z z o
Selva Selva DI CADORE Calalzo Lago di Pie
Lago di Pieveve
DI CADORE di Cadore
di Cadore
di Cadoree
di Cadore
di Cadore Borca di Cador Road conditions: Fairly hilly and, on
PIEVE
Antelao
di Cadore Borca Antelao Tai Tai PIEVE
3264m
di Cadore
Colle Colle di Cadore 3264m di Cadore DI C DI CADOREADORE occasion, mountainous and winding.
S. Lucia M. Pelmo Vodo Cadore
S. Lucia M. Pelmo
Vodo Cadore
3168m Valle di Piave Piave
3168m
Zoppé
Alleghe
Alleghe Zoppé Boite Boite Valle di When to go: Jun–Oct for outdoor
Cima Monfalcon
Cadore
di Cadore
di Cadore Cadore Cima Monfalcon activities, though the plains can get
2548m
2548m
M. Civetta
M. Civetta hot Jul–Aug. Winter brings snow and
3220m
3220m Cima dei Preti
Cima dei Preti
Zoldo Alto Sasso Cibiana 2703m skiing to the mountains, so carry snow
Zoldo Alto
Sasso Cibiana
2703m
Rivalgo
2413m
Forno
Forno 2413m Rivalgo
di Zoldo chains. Main roads are kept clear but
di Zoldo
Ospitale
Ospitale
M. Moiazza Passo
M. Moiazza Passo di Cadore mountain roads may be closed.
di Cadore
2865m Duran
2865m Duran Mae Mae
Passo di
Passo di
Cimolais
M. Tamer S. Osv S. Osvaldoaldo Cimolais Opening times: Shops tend to open
M. Tamer
2546m
2546m Castellavazzo
Castellavazzo
Agordo Casso 9am–1pm & 4–7:30pm Mon–Sat (food
Agordo
Casso
Longarone Erto Erto
Longarone
La Valle Agordina shops are shut Mon & Wed afternoon).
La Valle Agordina
Provagna
La Muda
La Muda Provagna Church and museum times vary, but
Frassene
Frassene
Monte Schiara
Rivamonte Monte Schiara Col Nudo are usually 9am–noon & 4–7 or 8pm.
Rivamonte
Col Nudo
2563m
2472m
Agordino
Agordino 2563m 2472m Many museums are closed on Mon.
La Stanga
Gosaldo Titelle La Stanga Soverzene San Martino
Soverzene
Gosaldo
Titelle
San Martino
Monte Serva
Monte Serva
d’Alpago
2132m Polpet
2132m Polpet d’Alpago Main market days: Cortina d’Ampezzo:
Mis Gosaldo
Mis Gosaldo Pieve Pieve
Gares Gares Gena Gena Ponte d’Alpago Tesa Tesa Chies d’Alpago Tue & Fri; Belluno: Mon–Sat; Feltre: Tue
Ponte d’Alpago
Passo di
Passo di nelle Alpi Chies d’Alpago
nelle Alpi
Monti del Sole
Monti del Sole
Cereda Gioz Gioz & Fri; Bassano del Grappa: Mon–Sat;
Cereda
A l p a g o
Fiera di Mas Mas A l p a g o
Fiera di
Primiero
Sospirolo Mis
Imer Imer Primiero M. Pizocco Sospirolo Mis Bastia Bastia Asolo: Sat; Treviso: Mon–Sat.
BELLUNOUNO
Mezzano M. Pizocco Vignole BELL Caleipo Farra Farra
Mezzano
Vignole
2188m
2188m
Caleipo
Sedico
Visome
Lago d’Alpago
Paderno Sedico Visome Lago d’Alpago Shopping: Look for ceramics at
Paderno
Faverga di Sta Croce Bassano del Grappa and cheese
di Sta Croce
Faverga
Meano
M. Pavione
Monte Croce M. Pavione Meano Sta Croce
Monte Croce
Sta Croce
2334m
2334m Cesiomaggiore Polentes around Feltre and Monte Grappa.
Cesiomaggiore
Polentes
NEVEGAL Fadalto
Passo Passo Santa Santa Trichiana NEVEGAL Fadalto
Giustina
Giustina
Trichiana
Aune Aune Croce Croce Pullir Pullir Major festivals: Feltre: Palio (medieval
Tassei
Moline
d’Aune
Moline d’Aune Piave Piave Mel Mel Tassei Col Visentin pageantry), 1st week in Aug; Bassano
Col Visentin
M. Pizzoc
Villabruna
1565m
Lamon Servo Servo Villabruna Lentiai Carve Carve Pranolz 1761m M. Pizzoc del Grappa: Mestieri in Strada (street
1565m
1761m
Lamon
Pranolz
Lentiai
Pedavena FELTRE Busche
Pedavena FELTRE
Busche
Passo di
Fonzaso
Arina Arina Fonzaso Villapaiera Col de Moi Passo di Fregona market), Sep; Asolo: Incontri Asolani
Fregona
Villapaiera
S. Boldo
S. Boldo
Col de Moi
Cáupo Anzù Anzù 1358m (chamber music), Aug–Sep.
Cáupo
1358m
Cismon
Cismon
VENETO
Tovio Tovio VENETO Lago Lago Vitt Vittorio Venetoorio Veneto
Tovena
M. Crep
Seren del M. Crep Tovena Tarzo Tarzo
Seren del
1349m
Arsié Arsié Grappa Caorera 1349m DAY TRIP OPTIONS
Grappa
Caorera
Cozzuolo
Carpen
Follina
Lago Lago Carpen Follina Cozzuolo
del del M. Cesen Miane Formeniga
Miane
M. Cesen
Formeniga
1570m
Sitzzon Chiesa
Enego
Enego Corlo Corlo Vas Vas 1570m Nature lovers can concentrate on the
Nuova
Nuova
Casere
Combai
Casere Sitzzon Chiesa Combai Campea scenic Ampezzo valley with a walk,
Campea
Alano di
Stoner
Stoner Alano di spectacular mountain views and a
Piave
Piave
Valdobbiadene
Valdobbiadene Pieve Pieve Conegliano
Conegliano
di Soligo
Col d. Berretta
Col d. Berretta MONTE di Soligo visit to the home of a grand master.
1448m
Brenta Brenta GRAPPA Pederobba Vidor Vidor Falze di Piave From Treviso, enjoy a Renaissance tour
1448m
MONTE Pederobba
Falze di Piave
GRAPPA
Cavaso del Tomba
Susegana
Col Moschin Cavaso del Tomba Crocetta Susegana starting at the pretty town of Asolo,
Col Moschin
Crocetta
Possagno
1278m
1278m Possagno Nervesa Colfosco then on to the walls of Feltre, the
Nervesa Colfosco
del Montello
Castelcucco
Castelcucco del Montello della Battaglia
della Battaglia
Borso Borso Giavera palazzos of Belluno and the garden
Giavera
Campolongo
Campolongo Nogarè del Montello
Nogarè del Montello
ASOLO
sul Brenta ASOLO Caerano at Nevegal. For full details, see p129.
sul Brenta
Caerano
Romano
S. Michele
Pove del
Pove del Romano di San Marco Volpago del S. Michele
Volpago del
d’Ezzelino
di Piave
Grappa
Venegazzu Montello
Grappa d’Ezzelino di San Marco Venegazzu Montello di Piave
Spresiano
Casella
Casella Spresiano
BASSANO San Zenone Montebelluna i Ronchi
BASSANO
Montebelluna
i Ronchi
San Zenone
Povegiano
Altivole
DEL GRAPPA
DEL GRAPPA degli Ezzelini Altivole Povegiano
degli Ezzelini
Riese Riese
Vascon
Postioma
Paderno
Caselle
Pio X Pio X Caselle Postioma Paderno Vascon
Cassola
Ponzano
Nove Nove Rosà Rosà Cassola Ponzano
Veneto
Veneto
Porcellengo
Castione
Cartigliano
Cartigliano Castione Vallà Vallà Porcellengo Carbonera
Carbonera
Vedelago
Paese
Rossola Vedelago Paese
Rossola
TREVISO
Tezze Tezze Veneto Cast Castelfrancoelfranco Istrana TREVISO
Veneto
Istrana
sul Brenta
sul Brenta Venet Silea Silea
Venetoo
Casacorba
Casacorba Treviso
Treviso-Sant’ Angelo-Sant’ Angelo
Sile Quinto
Quinto
Sile di Treviso Airp Airportort
di Treviso
BRNI_124-125_ItinDrive12.indd 125 02/09/14 2:09 PM

126 BACK ROADS NORTHERN AND CENTRAL ITALY


1 Cortina d’Ampezzo flower-filled meadows. The central
Veneto; 32043 pedestrian street, the Corso, is lined
Chic Cortina, a leading winter ski resort, with smart boutiques. Winter brings
was part of the Habsburg Empire crowds of jet-set skiers, but during
from the 16th century until after World the summer months, Cortina is an
War I and is today a charming mix of excellent base for walkers and
Tyrolean and Italian. The pretty town is climbers with its many chair lifts and
set in a natural amphitheatre formed cable cars. Information on walks is
by the breathtaking crags and spires available from the tourist office.
of the Dolomites, whose lower slopes ª From town, drive up SP48 for Passo
are cloaked in thick forest and lush di Falzarego. Park at Bai de Dones café.

2 The Cinque Torri
Belluno, Veneto; 32043
The leisurely chair lift ride to the Cinque Torri rock towers ends with
Above Cortina d’Ampezzo, nestling below the spectacular views of Cortina d’Ampezzo nestled within its crown of
dramatic Dolomites Below View of mountains, Dolomites peaks, a stunning backdrop to an open-air World War I
forests and a lake from Pieve di Cadore museum. Close to the Austrian-Italian border, this area was a key
strategic location, heavily fortified by both sides. After exploring the
VISITING CORTINA D’AMPEZZO trenches and gun emplacements, take the lovely woodland track –
sturdy walking shoes are recommended – back to the road. Two
Tourist information
Piazza Roma 1, 32043; 0436 869 mountain huts (rifugi) provide café facilities in summer.
086; www.infodolomiti.it
A three-hour walking tour Tofane-Lagazuoi range, northwest of
WHERE TO STAY From Bai de Dones 1, take the Cinque the valley. Close at hand are the
Torri seggiovia, or chair lift (10am–5pm jagged rock teeth of the Cinque Torri
CORTINA D’AMPEZZO daily) up to Rifugio Scoiattoli 2 (Five Towers), rising from earthy gums.
Meublé Montana inexpensive (2,225 m/7,300 ft), which boasts a Once off the chair lift, turn immedi-
A friendly, well-kept hotel in the centre magnificent terrace facing the ately left and take the path downhill
of town, Meublé Montana is close to
shops, restaurants and transport.
Corso Italia 94, 32043; 0436 860 498;
www.cortina-hotel.com; closed May, Nov SS48
SS48 0 metres 300
0 yards 300
Lake
Bai de Dones










Signs
for Return
Trenches Cinque Torri

Rifugio Scoiattoli
Rifugio
Cinque Torri




Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €100; moderate, €100–€200; expensive, over €200


126-129_Back_Roads_Northern_Italy.indd 126 21/09/17 11:19 am
Back Roads LAYERS PRINTED:
Catalogue Spread template “UK” LAYER
(OpenType)
Date 02 November 2009
Size 145mm x 217mm
Fonts Bulletfont, Clearbullet,
Frutiger Pro, Myriad Pro, Travelfont

DRIVE 12: Dolomites to Veneto Hills 127


into the trench on the slope, brightly
flowered in summer. Signs point out
rest areas, observation points and
artillery positions. At the end of the
first line of trenches 3, turn right to
go down the reconstruc ted timber
steps, which conclude at a covered
area. Fork right and immedi ately left
again. A little way up the hill, veer
right to the signs for return 4 indica­
ting the route back up to Rifugio
Scoiattoli. Approaching the rifugio,
take the left fork along the grassy
ridge towards the foot of the dramatic
rock towers, whose sheer cliff faces
attract many climbers. own this path
to the welcoming Rifugio Cinque
Torri 5. A quiet road leads downhill
to the northeast, offering views of the
majestic Sorapiss mountain. The way
forks left and enters shady conifer
woods where squirrels and roe deer
are not uncommon. About 20 minutes
further on, when the path veers right, Top Dramatic cloud-topped Dolomites above
follow the northwest road signed Bai ª Continue through Tai di Cadore, the Pieve Valley Above left Statue of the artist
de Dones. This pretty route meanders taking SS51bis to Pieve di Cadore. Titian, favourite son of Pieve di Cadore
amid alpenrose shrubs and pine trees, Above right View of a mountain village in
before reaching a small lake 6. Close 4 Pieve di Cadore the Dolomites Below Casa di Tiziano, Titian’s
by are the café, chair lift and car park. Veneto; 32044 home in Pieve di Cadore
ª Leave Cortina d’Ampezzo on SS51, Pieve di Cadore stands at the foot
go past Zuel and onto Dogana Vecchia, of the Marmarole mountain range. EAT AND DRINK
the old customs point between the A statue in the main square recalls CORTINA D’AMPEZZO
Habsburg Empire and Italy. San Vito its native son Titian, the foremost El Zoco moderate
is the next main town. painter of the 16th­century Venetian Top Italian cuisine and excellent wines.
school. His pretty home, Casa di Via Cademai 18, 32043; 0436 860 041;
Outdoors in the Dolomites Tiziano (open May–Sep), has been closed Mon, Apr–May & last 2 wks Nov
A UNESCO World Heritage Site, maintained as a small museum. Ristorante Tivoli expensive
these spectacular mountains in the ª Head back towards Tai di Cadore Refined Italian cuisine with one Michelin
far northeast of Italy are a superb and branch left on SS51 past Longarone. star and a superb panoramic terrace.
destination for skiing in winter and Exit for Ponte nelle Alpi and follow signs Via Lacedel 34; 0436 866 400;
climbing and trekking in summer. for Belluno “centro”. Follow signs for www.ristorantetivoli.it; closed Mon &
Aided climbs known as vie ferrate Tue lunch, Easter–Jun & Oct–Nov
criss­cross the sheer rock faces and Nevegal and from Piazzale Nevegal,
a network of paths link rifugi, or take the way indicated for Faverghera. NEVEGAL
mountain huts, which provide The car park is located at the top. Ristorante La Casera inexpensive
refreshments in the summer season. Offers delicious rustic food, such as
5 Nevegal polenta with sausage and mountain
cheese, and pasta with wild mushrooms.
Belluno, Veneto; 32100 Via Faverghera 751, 32100; 0437 908
3 San Vito di Cadore On an elongated ridge marking the 180; closed Mon; booking advised
Veneto; 32046 end of the mountains and the start of
Dramatic Monte Antelao, at 3,264 m the Veneto plain, this tiny village is
(10,709 ft) the highest mountain in surrounded with dairy farms and ski
the eastern Dolomites, rises over the slopes. A 30­minute walk from the car
village of San Vito di Cadore, while park leads to the Giardino Botanico
breaks in the trees afford inspiring delle Alpi Orientali (open mid-Jun–
views of the Pelmo massif. Further mid-Sep; closed Mon except Aug).
along the SS51, at Valle di Cadore, the ª Return to Piazzale Nevegal and
Chiesa di San Martino occupies a high return to SP1. Across the river, fork
promontory, the site of an ancient right for Belluno “centro”. Follow signs
castle. Near the valley floor is the to the Lambioi car park and take the
covered wooden Ponte di Rualan. escalator (scala mobile) to town centre.




126-129_Back_Roads_Northern_Italy.indd 127 21/09/17 11:19 am

128 BACK ROADS NORTHERN AND CENTRAL ITALY


WHERE TO STAY
6 Belluno
BELLUNO Veneto; 32100
Albergo delle Alpi moderate Backed by the soaring Schiara massif,
Furnished with all mod cons, this hotel, pretty Belluno, the provincial capital,
built on the site of a historic inn in the is worth a visit for its grand squares,
town centre, also has a good restaurant. such as Piazza del Mercato (also
Via Jacopo Tasso 13, 32100; known as Piazza delle Erbe), lined
0437 940 545; www.dellealpi.it
with splendid Renaissance palaces
FELTRE and home to an elegant 15th-century
Via Paradiso 32 moderate fountain. Nearby, the 16th-century
This comfortable modern renovation Duomo has a Baroque campanile
in the town centre has three suites that affords excellent views in all
and serves local delicacies at breakfast.
Via Paradiso 32, 32032; 348 870 9622; directions. The town’s Museo Civico
www.viaparadiso32.it is worth visiting for its paintings by 8 Monte Grappa
local 16th–18th century masters. Veneto; 36061
MONTE GRAPPA ª Head back to SP1 and turn right to Towering over the edge of the vast
Albergo Forcelletto inexpensive Feltre, past Trichiana and Mel. After Veneto plain is 1,775-m (5,823-ft)
This simple mountain inn is managed
by a friendly local family and set in a Lentiai, fork right on the SS50 to cross high Monte Grappa. The peak is
superbly panoramic location. the River Piave towards Feltre. Follow home to Cima Grappa, a monumental
Località Forcelletto, 32030; 349 954 signs for “centro”, then “centro storico”, terraced ossario, a poignant memorial
4757; www.forcellato.it; closed Tue & circling the town to the car park. Yellow to the Italian and Austrian troops
Mon–Fri in winter
signs direct pedestrians into Feltre. whose bones rest there. Lush
BASSANO DEL GRAPPA meadows now cover the World War I
Hotel Al Castello inexpensive 7 Feltre battlefields. On a clear day, the views
This traditional inn has cosy rooms Veneto; 32032 extend all the way to the Adriatic
and is well placed for sightseeing. This charming walled Renaissance coast and Venice.
Via Bonamigo 19, 36061; 0424 22 8665;
www.hotelalcastello.it town comes alive in mid-Aug for ª Return to SS148 and turn left for
its colourful Palio horse race and the zig-zag descent to Romano
ASOLO medieval pageantry festival. Only d’Ezzelino. Turn right on SP74 and
Albergo Al Sole moderate 3 km (2 miles) away is Pedavena, follow signs for “centro”. Park on
This is a captivating 16th-century villa known for its brewery. It is also the Viale Fosse by the town walls.
with mod cons, near the main piazza. gateway to the wild Vette Feltrine
Via Collegio 33, 31011; 0423 951 332;
www.albergoalsole.com; closed Jan mountain range, part of the Dolomiti 9 Bassano del Grappa
Bellunesi National Park, where there Veneto; 36061
TREVISO are spectacular walks to be enjoyed With a charming, traffic-free centre,
Albergo Il Focolare moderate (www.dolomitipark.it). Bassano is well-known for ceramics,
This popular hotel is charming, ª Leave Feltre on the SS50, towards fiery grappa spirit and the prized
comfortable and handily located.
Piazza Ancilotto 4, 31100; 0422 56601; Bassano, then turn left at Cáupo white asparagus (in spring). For some
www.ilfocolarehotel.com following signs for “Monte Grappa” wonder ful rooftop views, climb the
on the scenic SS148 as it winds its 43-m (141-ft) high Torre Civica.
way up the northernmost flank of Straddling the River Brenta is the
SHOPPING IN THE VENETO
the mountain. Drive on past Osteria landmark bridge Ponte degli Alpini,
In Monte Bassano, look for fine cheese Forcelletto and take the fork to SP149 designed by Andrea Palladio in 1571
such as Morlacco and Bastardo del to Cima Grappa. (rebuilt 1948), from which there are
Grappa in La Speloncia (Via Bocchette
di Mezzo; 0439 438 260; Jun–Sep).
For hand-decorated ceramics in
Bassano del Grappa, try L’Arte della
Ceramica (Via Angarano 21; 0424 503
901); or taste the wide range of grappa
and liqueurs at Osteria Grapperia
Nardini (Ponte Vecchio 2;
0424 227 741; www.nardini.it).
Gourmet goodies such as potted
red chicory (radicchio rosso) abound
in Treviso, especially at Bottega del
Baccalà (Via S Parisio 15–17; 0422 540
818; www.fermi-treviso.com).
Right View of Bassano del Grappa from its
famous wooden bridge Top Boating on one
of Treviso’s many tree-shaded canals


126-129_Back_Roads_Northern_Italy.indd 128 21/09/17 11:19 am
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DRIVE 12: Dolomites to Veneto Hills 129


Far left Road leading to Belluno Left
Delightful Belluno with its Duomo and
Baroque campanile Below Flowers adorning
houses in the pretty hillside town of Asolo
EAT AND DRINK

FELTRE
Osteria Crash moderate
A fun and friendly eatery with an
excellent selection of wines and beers.
Via Paradiso 46, 32032; 0439 81169;
closed Mon & Sun eve
impressive views of the town. The q Treviso MONTE GRAPPA
Osteria Forcelletto inexpensive
Museo Civico (closed Mon) contains Veneto; 31100 Hearty country fare and views over the
works by 19th-century sculptor This charming walled market town- Valsugana to the Asiago plateau.
Canova. In Piazza Garibaldi stands cum-city on the River Sile is scored Località Forcelletto, 32030; 349 954
the 11th-century Romanesque- with waterways from the long-gone 4757; closed Tue & Mon–Fri in winter
Gothic Chiesa di San Francesco. days of canal navigation. Stroll east BASSANO DEL GRAPPA
ª Leave on Viale Venezia (SP248) for along the banks to a poignant ”barge Belvedere Ristorante del
Asolo, turning left for “centro” after 16 cemetery”, where the old timber craft Buon Ricordo moderate
km (10 miles). Park at Piazza Garibaldi. were sunk when road transport took Refined restaurant whose
over. The lively fish market has its own specialities include pheasant.
0 Asolo island, modelled by Venetian architect Viale delle Fosse 1, 36061;
Veneto; 31011 Carlo Scarpa (1906–78). One of 0424 524 988; www.bonotto.it
The peaceful setting of this beautiful Treviso’s claims to gastronomic fame Antico Ristorante
hillside town has long attracted is that it invented the classic Italian Cardellino moderate
Try the baccala alla Vicentina, a local
poets (Robert Browning), aristocrats dessert tiramisù; it also purports to be cod specality.
(Caterina Cornaro, 15th-century the home of radicchio (red chic ory) Via Bellavitis 17, 36061; 0424 220 144;
queen of Cyprus) and travellers and pasta e fagioli (pasta/bean soup). closed Sun
(Freya Stark). A visit should start at ASOLO
Piazza Garibaldi, its fountain fed Antica Osteria Al Bacaro moderate
by underground aqueducts that Enjoy spezzatino (stew) and baccalà
once filled the Roman baths. Just (salt cod) at wooden trestle tables.
across the main street stands the Via R Browning 165, 31011; 0423
venerable Cattedrale. Pass through a 55150; closed Thu
city door on Via Collegio and walk TREVISO
uphill to the 14th-century fort, La Locanda Ponte Dante moderate
Rocca (open Sat & Sun), for views over Close to the river, this eatery serves
the town and lush countryside. stews, polenta, octopus and sardines.
ª Return to SS248 and drive through Piazza Garibaldi 6, 31100; 0422 178
Montebelluna towards Conegliano. 5946; closed Sun eve & Mon
Turn right at the roundabout before Toni da Spin moderate
Venegazzu onto SR348 and follow Historic trattoria in the town centre –
signs straight to Treviso. Take the try the pasta e fagioli for lunch.
Via Inferiore 7, 31100; 0422 543 829;
first turn-off for “centro” and park www.ristorante tonidelspin.com;
at Viale Battisti. closed Mon lunch
DAY TRIP OPTIONS Lunch at a mountain hut, then drive to on to walled Feltre 7 with its historic
Choose between the wonders of San Vito di Cadore 3, with more Renaissance centre. After lunch, drive
nature and the man-made splendour photo opportunities at the Ponte di to Belluno 6 to explore its grand
of the Renaissance. Rualan. Drive on to Pieve di Cadore 4 palazzo-lined squares,16th-century
Painterly landscapes to see the place of Titian’s birth. Duomo and Renaissance paintings.
Using Cortina d’Ampezzo 1 as a base, Follow the drive’s instructions. Take the SP55 then the SS248 to Asolo.
do a little shopping before heading Retrace route back on SS248, then take
up to the Cinque Torri 2. Work up an Renaissance tour SS348 to Feltre. Take the SS50, then SP1
appetite climbing to see the views – if From Treviso q, head to pretty Asolo to Belluno. To return quickly, take SS50
painting isn’t an option, take a photo. 0, the “pearl of the province”, then north to A27. Take this south to Treviso.

Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€45; expensive, over €45


126-129_Back_Roads_Northern_Italy.indd 129 06/11/17 5:30 pm

BRNI_130-131_OpnDrv13.indd 130 27/10/11 6:01 PM
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DRIVE 13





Milan
Turin
IT AL Y
Genoa
Florence
Perugia

Rome


The Po Delta


Ferrara to

Ravenna




Highlights
• Courtly capital
Explore Ferrara’s Renaissance palazzos,
medieval churches and magnificent
castles, built by its powerful d’Este rulers
• The mighty Po
Follow Italy’s longest river as it heads
to the sea over rich alluvial plains,
reclaimed since Roman times
• The lagoons of Comacchio
Discover these superb wetlands, an
important sanctuary and breeding
ground for migrating water birds
• Byzantine majesty
Feast your eyes on splendid Ravenna
– the last great capital of the Roman
empire – rich in glittering mosaics









Mosaics inside the Presbytery of the Basilica
di San Vitale, Ravenna




BRNI_130-131_OpnDrv13.indd 131 27/10/11 6:01 PM

132 BACK ROADS NORTHERN AND CENTRAL ITALY

The Po Delta

The massive River Po winds across its expansive delta in large, lazy
arcs. Somewhat tamed by reclamation, the largest flood plain in
Italy is an easy place to explore. This drive starts at Ferrara and then
wanders through rich agricultural lands, along the massive, protective
river banks to wild wetlands of superb natural beauty with excellent
cycling paths and well-marked walking trails. After the ancient
forest of Mesola, the beauty of the Pomposa monastery, the busy Guarda Veneta Crespino
Guarda Veneta
Crespino
fishing village of Porto Garibaldi and the fascinating town of Colog Fiume Po Berra Berra
Fiume Po
Colognana
Comacchio, the journey ends with the world’s greatest Polesella Ariano
Polesella
Ariano
Ghetto
nel Polesine
Byzantine treasures in the charming city of Ravenna. IL MULINO DEL PO Ro Ro Ghetto Can Canovaova nel Polesine
IL MULINO DEL PO
Ariano
Ariano
Ferrarese
Ferrarese
Canaro
Canaro
CASTELLO DI
CASTELLO DI
ACTIVITIES Ruina Ruina Canale Leone Cancale Semniato MESOLA
MESOLA
Cancale Semniato
Copparo
Copparo
Canale Leone
Catch a fish with local fishermen in Porto Garibaldi; Santa Maria
Santa Maria
Maddalena
and stay overnight on board a traditional fishing boat Maddalena Corlo Corlo Tamara Jolanda Bosco Mesola
Jolanda
Bosco Mesola
Tamara
di Savoia
Boara Boara di Savoia
Gigliola
Pontelangorino
Photograph the birdlife of the Valli di Comacchio Pontelangorino Gigliola Goro Goro
F. Ferrarese
at sunset including the migrating flamingos FERR F. Ferrarese Formignana ABBAZIA DI POMPOSA IL BOSCO
Formignana
FERRARAARA
ABBAZIA DI POMPOSA
IL BOSCO
DELLA MESOLA
Po di Volano
Codigoro
Take a class in mosaic-making and learn the ancient Aranova Po di Volano Codigoro DELLA MESOLA
Aranova
Byzantine art of designing with glass in Ravenna Cona Cona Masi Masi Tresigallo Canevie
Canevie
Tresigallo
Massa Fiscaglia
Torello Massa Fiscaglia
Torello
Migliaro
Ride a bicycle across the Valli di Comacchio – the Migliaro Bertuzzi Lido di
Valle
Valle
Lido di
Bertuzzi
Volano
Volano
delta is very flat here and perfect for cycling San San
Martino Migliarino
Martino
Migliarino
Canale San Niccolo
Lagosanto
Voghiera
Hike in Il Bosco della Mesola, the last forest in the Voghiera Lagosanto
delta, and look out for fallow and red deer Canale San Niccolo Ostellato Lido delle Nazioni
Ostellato
Lido delle Nazioni
Maiero
Take a dip at a sandy-beached lido along the delta Maiero Lido di Pomposa
Lido di Pomposa
coast from Porto Garibaldi San San Portomaggiore Lido degli Scacchi
Nicolò
Po Morto di Primaro Po Morto di Primaro EMILIA-ROMAGNA COMACCHIO PORTO
Nicolò
Lido degli Scacchi
Portomaggiore
COMACCHIO
PORTO
EMILIA-ROMAGNA
GARIBALDI
GARIBALDI
Lido degli Estensi
Fossa Sabbios sola
0 kilometres 8 Fossa Sabbios sola Lido degli Estensi
Valle del
Lido di Spina
Lido di Spina
Consandolo Valle del
Consandolo
Bando
Mazzano
Fiume Reno Bando Mazzano Valli Valli
Fiume Reno
0 miles 8 Campo
Campo
Foce del Reno
Molinella
Molinella Foce del Reno
ARGENTA
ARGENTA
Canale della Botte
Canale della Botte
Marmorta
Marmorta
Valli di
Valli di
Museo Museo Comácchio
Comácchio
delle Valli
delle Valli Filo Filo
Longastrino
T. Ídice
T. Ídice Campotto Longastrino
Campotto
Anita Anita VALLI DI
VALLI DI
COMÁCCHIO
COMÁCCHIO
T. Síllaro La Rotta
T. Síllaro
La Rotta
F. Reno
Maree
Lavezzola
Lavezzola Taglio F. Reno Mar
Taglio
T. Santerno
Corelli
Corelli
Adr iaticoiatico
Sant’
Voltana
Sassatelli T. Santerno Voltana Alberto Sant’ Adr
Sassatelli
Alberto
KEY
Alfonsine
Conselice Alfonsine San San
Conselice
Romualdo
Drive route Romualdo
Rossetta Marina di
Rossetta
Marina di
Ravenna
Ravenna
T. Senio T. Senio Mezzano
Mezzano
Fusignano
Fusignano
Sanť Agata
Sanť Agata Camerlona
Camerlona
Punta Marina
Sul Santerno
Sul Santerno Borgo Punta Marina
Borgo
Santerno
Massa
Massa Santerno Fusara
Fusara
Left Ferrara’s Loggia of the Merchants, Piazza Trento Lombar
Lombardada
Trieste, see p134 Above right Mudflats and reed beds in Lugo Lugo Bagnacavallo RAVENNA Lido di
Lido di
Bagnacavallo
RAVENNA
Dante
Dante
the wildlife haven Valli di Comacchio, see p138
F. Uniti
F. Uniti
Cotignola
Cotignola
Russi Russi
F. Montone
F. Montone
132-133_Back_Roads_Northern_Italy.indd 132 21/09/17 11:17 am

DRIVE 13: The Po Delta 133

PLAN YOUR DRIVE

Start/finish: Ferrara to Ravenna.
Number of days: 2–3 days.
Distance: Approx 240 km (150 miles).
Road conditions: Generally excellent.
When to go: Summer is best, with
Guarda Veneta Crespino clear skies and good beach weather.
Guarda Veneta
Crespino
Fiume Po
Fiume Po The Po valley around Ferrara and the
Colog Berra Berra
Colognana
Polesella
Polesella coast is prone to fog in winter.
Ariano
Ghetto
Ghetto Can Canovaova Ariano
nel Polesine
IL MULINO DEL PO nel Polesine
IL MULINO DEL PO
Ro Ro Opening times: Most museums open
Ariano
Ariano
Ferrarese
Ferrarese 10am–6pm, with small museums often
Canaro
Canaro
CASTELLO DI
CASTELLO DI only open on weekends outside the
MESOLA
Cancale Semniato
Ruina Ruina Canale Leone Cancale Semniato MESOLA summer months. Churches are usually
open 7:30am–noon and 3–7:30pm.
Copparo
Copparo
Canale Leone
Santa Maria
Santa Maria
Maddalena Jolanda Main market days: Ferrara: Mon &
Maddalena
Jolanda
Bosco Mesola
Corlo Corlo Tamara Bosco Mesola
Tamara
di Savoia
Boara Boara di Savoia Fri; Ro & Comacchio: Wed; Argenta:
Gigliola
Pontelangorino Gigliola
Pontelangorino
Goro Goro Thu; Ravenna: Wed & Sat in Via
F. Ferrarese
Formignana
FERR F. Ferrarese Formignana ABBAZIA DI POMPOSA IL BOSCO Sighinolfi; Mesola: Sat.
FERRARAARA
ABBAZIA DI POMPOSA
IL BOSCO
DELLA MESOLA
Po di Volano
Codigoro
Aranova
Aranova Po di Volano Codigoro DELLA MESOLA Specialized markets: Ferrara: Antique
Cona Cona Tresigallo Canevie Market, 1st weekend of month (except
Tresigallo
Canevie
Masi Masi
Massa Fiscaglia
Torello Massa Fiscaglia Aug); Ravenna: Antique and Handicrafts
Torello
Migliaro
Migliaro Valle Valle Lido di
Lido di
Bertuzzi Volano Market, 3rd weekend of month.
Bertuzzi
Volano
San San
Martino Migliarino
Martino
Migliarino
Canale San Niccolo Ostellato Lido delle Nazioni all tools and requirements for making
Lagosanto
Canale San Niccolo
Voghiera
Voghiera Lagosanto Shopping: Modern mosaic gifts and
mosaics are available in Ravenna.
Ostellato
Lido delle Nazioni
Maiero
Lido di Pomposa
San San Maiero Portomaggiore Lido di Pomposa Major festivals: Ferrara: Buskers
Nicolò
Nicolò
Po Morto di Primaro Po Morto di Primaro EMILIA-ROMAGNA COMACCHIO Lido degli Estensi di San Giorgio (medieval horse race
Festival, last week in Aug; Ferrara Palio
Lido degli Scacchi
Lido degli Scacchi
Portomaggiore
COMACCHIO
PORTO
PORTO
EMILIA-ROMAGNA
and pageantry), last Sun in May;
GARIBALDI
GARIBALDI
Ferrara Hota: Air Balloon Festival, 3rd
Lido degli Estensi
Fossa Sabbios sola
Fossa Sabbios sola
Valle del
Lido di Spina
Consandolo Valle del Lido di Spina week in Sep; Porto Garibaldi: Festa
Consandolo
della Madonna del Mare (boat festival
Bando
Mazzano
Fiume Reno
Fiume Reno Bando Mazzano Valli Valli
Campo and celebration), 4 Jun; Comacchio:
Campo
Foce del Reno
Molinella
Molinella Foce del Reno
ARGENTA Sagra dell’Anguilla (eel festival), first 2
ARGENTA
Canale della Botte
Canale della Botte
Marmorta
Marmorta weekends in Oct; Ravenna: Ravenna
Valli di
Valli di
Museo Museo Comácchio Festival (music, drama and dance;
Comácchio
delle Valli Filo Filo www.ravennafestival.org) Jun–Jul.
delle Valli
Longastrino
T. Ídice Campotto Longastrino
T. Ídice
Campotto
Anita Anita VALLI DI
VALLI DI
COMÁCCHIO
COMÁCCHIO
T. Síllaro La Rotta
T. Síllaro
La Rotta
F. Reno
Maree
Taglio
Lavezzola
Lavezzola Taglio F. Reno Mar DAY TRIP OPTIONS
T. Santerno
Corelli
Corelli
Adr iaticoiatico
Voltana
Sant’
Sassatelli
Sassatelli T. Santerno Voltana Alberto Sant’ Adr Architecture enthusiasts will enjoy the
Alberto
frescoes, duomo and castle in Ferrara,
Alfonsine
Alfonsine
Conselice San San one of the delta’s oldest buildings
Conselice
Romualdo
Romualdo
Rossetta
Rossetta Marina di in the Po Delta at Argenta and more
Marina di
Ravenna
Ravenna
T. Senio T. Senio Mezzano mosaics and great architecture in
Mezzano
Fusignano Ravenna. Nature-loving families can
Fusignano
Sanť Agata
Sanť Agata Camerlona head to the Valli of Comacchio to enjoy
Camerlona
Punta Marina
Sul Santerno Borgo Punta Marina the waterbirds and pristine delta
Sul Santerno
Borgo
Santerno
Massa
Massa Santerno Fusara
Fusara
Lombar environment and visit the eel factory
Lombardada
Bagnacavallo
Lido di
RAVENNA
Lugo Lugo Bagnacavallo RAVENNA Lido di at Comacchio. Next, they can visit the
Dante
Dante
F. Uniti coast for a swim at a lido or carry on
F. Uniti
to Il Bosco della Mesola to see the
Cotignola
Cotignola
Russi Russi deer. For full details, see p139.
F. Montone
F. Montone
132-133_Back_Roads_Northern_Italy.indd 133 21/09/17 11:17 am

134 BACK ROADS NORTHERN AND CENTRAL ITALY

1 Ferrara
Ferrara, Emilia-Romagna; 44121–44124
The d’Este dynasty ruled over Ferrara from the 13th to the 16th
century, enriching it with a splendid castle, medieval architecture and
fine Renaissance palaces. This stroll leads through the oldest part of
the city to the sombre, moated castle at its centre, Castello Estense.

A two-hour walking tour the most significant 15th-century
From the car park on Via Darsena, enter fresco cycles in Italy showing court
the city to the right of the 17th-century life, zodiac signs and Roman gods.
Porta Paola. Cross Piazza Travaglio Return past the oratory, turn right
diagonally right to the busy shopping at Via Pergolato, then left at Via
street Via San Romano. Cross Via Savanarola past Casa Romei 5 (closed
Ripagrande/Carlo Mayr and turn Mon), a fine example of a Ferrerese
Above A narrow alley through the historic right on Via Volte 1, one of the oldest nobleman’s house combining
centre of Ferrara parts of the city. The archways once medieval and Renaissance elements.
joined the river warehouses on the Turn left at Via Terranuova, then right
right to the merchants’ houses on into Via Mazzini past the Synagogue
the left. At the end, turn left, then and Jewish Museum 6 (open Sun–
VISITING FERRARA right into Vicolo Granchio. Go Thu, guided visits only: 10am,
Getting to Ferrara straight on, in a series of dog- 11am, 12 am). On the left of
From the A13 toll road, take exit Ferrara legs, into Via Carmellino and Via Mazzini is the Ghetto. In
Nord onto Via Eridano/SP19. The nearest Via Borgo di Sotto. 1492, Ercole I gave shelter
airports are Bologna and Venice.
This leads to the Oratorio to Jews fleeing persecution
Parking dell’Annunziata 2, with in Spain. When d’Este
Centro Storico, Via Darsena
superb frescoes, including a power waned, the
Bicycle hire 15th-century fresco by the Detail from the façade community was gated in
Rent-a-bike Ceragioli (Piazza school of Pisanello. Continue of Ferrara’s Duomo 1627 and closed in 1859.
Travaglio, 44121; 339 405 6853)
into Via Scandiana – on the Now a charming area, it was
Tourist Information right is the Chiesa di Santa Maria in the setting for Giorgio Bassani’s 1962
Castello Estense, 44121; 0532 299 303;
www.ferraraterraeacqua.it Vado 3. In 1171 a priest celebrating novel, The Garden of the Finzi-Continis.
mass broke the host, which sprayed Via Mazzini opens into a series of
blood over the vault above the altar, squares in the city’s heart. On the right
confirming the miracle of the Eucharist. of Piazza Trento Trieste is a Renaissance
WHERE TO STAY On the left is Palazzo Schifanioa 4 bell tower, attributed to Leon Battista
FERRARA AND AROUND (closed Mon), which belonged to the Alberti (1404–72), and the medieval
Hotel Touring inexpensive d’Este family and is now home to a Loggia of the Merchants. Facing west
Set in the town centre and offering museum containing artifacts from is the Duomo, the magnificent 12th-
excellent value for money, this 1950s the d’Este court as well as some of century Basilica di San Giorgio 7
hotel has quiet rooms, excellent staff
and parking permits for a small fee. Below Statue of Niccolò III d’Este 1383–1441), the Marquess of Ferrara, outside the Palazzo Municipale
Viale Cavour 11, 44100; 0532 206
200; www.hoteltouringfe.it Below right The glassy waters of a peaceful wooded pond near Il Mulino del Po
Alla Cedrara a Ferrara inexpensive
This agriturismo (farm stay) in parkland
7 km (4 miles) from the historic centre,
serves generous breakfasts (on the
terrace in fine weather). Exit Ferrara on
Via Modena, left after bridge, then right
into Via Arginone, first left Via Pelosa. At
Via Aranova turn left for the agriturismo.
Aranova, 102–104 Lat. Via Pelosa, 44044;
345 013 54 24, 340 934 30 96; www.
allacedrara.it; offers bicycle hire
Hotel Ferrara moderate
This central hotel combines a sleek
modern style with a characterful old
building – some rooms have views
onto neighbouring Castello Estense.
Largo Castello 36, 44121; 053 220
5048; www.hotelferrara.com;
free bicycle hire
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €100; moderate, €100–€200; expensive, over €200

134-139_Back_Roads_Northern_Italy.indd 134 21/09/17 11:17 am

DRIVE 13: The Po Delta 135


0 metres 300 EAT AND DRINK
PIAZZA
SACRATI Castello Estense VIA PALESTRO 0 yards 300 FERRARA
VIA DELLA SA CCA V I A D E G L I SPA D A R I Municipale CASTELLO PIAZZA CATTEDRALE CORSO MARTIRI Basilica V I A F R ESCO B AL DI V I A B E L L A R I A Leon d’Oro inexpensive
PIAZZA
V I A M O N T E B E L L O
Almost a Ferrara institution, this central
café and pasticceria opposite the Duomo
VIA GARIBALDI
V I A R E S I S T E N Z A
Palazzo
is famous for its pampapato, a nutty,
di San Giorgio
nougat-style sweet dipped in chocolate.
COR S O P OR TA R E NO VIA SAN RO MANO PIAZZA Jewish Museum VIA COAMAR I V I A M O R T A R A Piazza della Cattedrale 8, 44121;
0532 20 9318; closed Tue
TRENTO TRIESTE
Synagogue and
VIA VOLTAPALETTO
Caffetteria Ristorante
VIA TERRANU OVA
VIA CAPO DELLE VOLTE
DELLA LIBERTÀ C O R S O G I O V E C C A C O R S O G I O V E C C A
Schifanoia inexpensive
VIA
This small pavilion has been
MAZZINI
Casa Romei
VI A P I A N G I PA N E
PIAZZA V IA S C I E N Z E V I A P A G L I A VIA SAVANAROLA V I A B A S S I turned into a delightful garden
TRAVAGLIO V I A V O L T E VIA PRAISOLO café by artist Simone Bavia.
V I A R I P A G R A N D E
Palazzo Schifanoia, Via Scandiana 21,
VIA KENNEDY VIA BOLOGNA GRANCHIO CARMELLINO VIA BORGO VIA PE RGOLATO Oratorio dell’ Palazzo 44100; 340 617 8870; lunch only;
VIA
VICOLO
Annunziata
closed Mon
Schifanioa
VIA SALINGUERRA DI SOTTO Chiesa di VI A S C A NDIA N A Cà d’ Frara moderate
As you would expect in a restaurant in
V I A C A R L O M AY R
Santa Maria in Vado
V I A D E I B A L U A R D I
Via del Gambero (Prawn Street), this
pleasant restaurant serves seafood, but
also home-made pasta specialities such
(open daily). The lower part of the Cycling in the Po Delta as cappellacci di zucca (pumpkin pasta).
façade is Romanesque while the Geographically the whole area of the Via del Gambero 4, 44121; 0532 205
057; www. ristorantecadfrara.it; closed
intricately carved upper part was Po Delta is very flat, making it ideal for Tue & Wed lunch
built later in Gothic style. exploring on a bike. Ravenna has free L’Oca Giuliva moderate
Directly opposite is the Palazzo bicycles for hire – yellow/red for A small restaurant with an excellent
Municpale 8, a 12th-century d’Este tourists/residents. Register at the wine cellar: try their splendid salama
tourist office (Via Salara 8, Ravenna
residence remodelled in the 16th 48100; www.turismo.ra.it). Many hotels da sugo, a spicy sausage in ragù sauce.
century to house the City Hall. To the supply bikes free to guests. Via Boccacanale di Santo Stefano 38,
40100; 0532 207 628; closed Tue;
right, above an arch designed by Leon Route maps and information are booking advised
Battista Alberti, is a statue of Niccolò available at www.ferrarabike.com and
III d’Este on horseback; to the left, www.cycle-r.it, including the Destra Osteria Del Ghetto moderate
In the heart of the Jewish ghetto, this
seated on a column, is his son Borso. Po Route, part of the Eurovelo cycle small osteria has a typically local menu:
routes from Athens to Cadiz. Most
Turning right up Corso Martiri della locals are keen cyclists, and hotels try the cosciotto di maialino in porchetta
Libertà, the last column on the left has and guides can offer biking tours – ham-wrapped roast pork with fennel.
marks from when the River Po burst not easily found elsewhere. Via della Vittoria, 26, 44121; 0532 764
its banks, flooding the city. Nearby is 936; www.osteriadelghetto.it
the statue of the Ferrarese Dominican IL MULINO DEL PO
monk Girolamo Savonarola, a leader 2 Il Mulino del Po VenTo di Supa moderate
of Florence whose passionate sermons Ro, Ferrara, Emilia-Romagna; 44030 Simple outdoor restaurant-bar on the
started the Bonfire of the Vanities in This small parkland with picnic areas shores of the Po river. Offers excellent
meat and fish dishes. Try the roasted
1497, when all “sinful goods” were and bicycle hire, on the banks of the eel, a local specialty..
taken from the city’s houses and burnt. river near the Polesella bridge, featured Via Dazio, 52 44030; 345 610 80 08;
Surrounded by a moat is the symbol in a 1940 novel by Riccardo Bacchelli, www.ventodisupa.com; closed Mon
of Ferrara, the Castello Estense 9 Il Mulino del Po (The Mill on the Po),
(closed Mon), built in the 15th century evoking the harsh realities of life on
to protect Niccolò II d’Este against his the river. There is a small museum in
own people. As d’Este rule became the barge/houseboat that was used
established, the castle grew into a fine in a 1949 film of the book. The tethered
home with terraces and frescoed barge was manoeuvred into mid-
apartments. Return to the car park. stream, where the force of the water
ª Leave Ferrara on Via Pomposa, turned the waterwheel it carried,
towards Copparo – turn left into grinding the corn. The tall mooring
Via Pontegradella, then left into Via poles are an indication of how high
Caretti, and right into SP2. Just before the river flows when in flood.
Corlo, take 1st left onto SP14 (towards ª Returning to Ro, take 1st left onto
Ro). At Ro follow signs to “Centro Via Vallalbana/SP24, following signs
Storico”, left at Via Dazio, follow signs to Berra. At Canova, turn left into Via
for Area Golenale del Po - Mulino sul Brusantina Pampano/SP12 to Ariano.
Po. Park in the designated area. Walk At Piazza Garibaldi turn left to SP11 to Above The Castello Estense, or castello di San
over the embankment to the park. Mesola. Use car park on Viale Roma. Michele, in Ferrara
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€45; expensive, over €45
134-139_Back_Roads_Northern_Italy.indd 135 21/09/17 11:17 am

136 BACK ROADS NORTHERN AND CENTRAL ITALY


Right top The impressive red-brick Treponti
Bridge, Comacchio Right below left Boats
in the harbour at Porto Garibaldi Right
below right Detail of the façade at the
Abbazia di Pomposa


VISITING COMACCHIO
Consorzio del Parco Regionale
del Delta del Po
This office provides information on
bike hire, boat tours and walking
trails throughout the Po Delta.
Via Cavour 11, 44022; 0533 314 003;
www.parcodeltapo.it











3 Castello di Mesola ª Return to Gigliola, then turn left at
Ferrara, Emilia-Romagna; 44026 Via Vecchia Corriera and right at Strada
One of the last Delizie (pleasure Giralda Centrale, continuing to Abbazia
lodges) built by the Ferrara dukes, di Pomposa and car park.
WHERE TO STAY AROUND the Castello di Mesola was part of a
IL BOSCO DELLA MESOLA huge hunting estate. Building started 5 Abbazia di Pomposa
L’Oasi di Valle Canneviè-Porticino in 1578, creating a central block with Via Pomposa Centro, 12, Codigoro
inexpensive four towers surrounded by a semi- Ferrara; 44020
Combining tourism and wildlife circular porticoed courtyard. The This superb Romanesque abbey was
preservation, this mini ecopark near former stables and granary now first established in the 7th century,
the Lido di Volano is run in conjunction
with the Province of Ferrara and offers contain bars, a restaurant and a local and by 1001 it had been made
accommodation and a restaurant and produce shop. The filmic nature of a royal abbey by Emperor Otto III.
bar as well as guided tours of the the setting was used by director However, after several centuries of
surrounding wetlands (in Italian). Mario Soldati for his 1954 film La decline, the last monks left Pomposa
Via per Volano 45, 44020 Volano di
Codigoro; 0533 719 014; tours: Apr– Donna del Fiume, with Sophia Loren. in 1671. The abbey was built in the
Sep daily, closed Mon Oct–Mar; ª Head east on Via 25 Aprile, then style of a basilica, with a central nave
also offers bicycle hire right at Strada Statale Romea/SS309. and an aisle on each side, using
Fork left to Bosco Mesola and Gigliola, material salvaged from other sites.
turning left and following the signs to The two carved roundels came
Bosco della Mesola and car park.
Below The square-turreted 16th-century Below Fishermen unloading the day’s catch at
Castello di Mesola 4 Il Bosco della Mesola Porto Garibaldi
Ferrara, Emilia-Romagna; 44026
Once an extensive forest, only 1,000
hectares (4 sq miles) of Il Bosco della
Mesola (www.parcodeltapo.it) remain
and are now under the protection of
the Corpo Forestale. Explore the forest
on foot or by bicycle (hire available
near front gate) along the 1.5 km
(1 mile) of paths. These lead through
an attractive setting of English oak,
holm oak and pine, inhabited by the
shy red deer of Mesola, the only
native population of red deer in Italy.
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €100; moderate, €100–€200; expensive, over €200


134-139_Back_Roads_Northern_Italy.indd 136 21/09/17 11:17 am

DRIVE 13: The Po Delta 137


from Ravenna. The complex is an
architectural delight – the 48-m
(157-ft) bell tower, or campanile,
is typical Lombard Romanesque.
The interior is covered with frescoes
of biblical scenes by Bolognese
masters and the floor was created
in the 11th and 12th centuries by
Venetian craftsmen.
In the 11th century, the monk
Guido d’Arezzo is said to have
invented modern musical notation
while teaching music here.
ª Head south on Loc. Lovara/SS309,
turn left at SP54 to Lido di Volano, then
right at Strada Panoramica Acciaioli.
At Porto Garibaldi, fork left on Via Above left Comacchio, a town of canals,
Cacciatori, then left into Via Florido 7 Comacchio boats and bridges Above right The elegant
Braga, right at Via Volturno to the port. Ferrara, Emilia-Romagna; 44022 14th-century bell tower at the Abbazia di
This picturesque town has derived Pomposa Below One of the well-tended
6 Porto Garibaldi its prosperity from many centuries of sandy beaches at Porto Garibaldi
Ferrara, Emilia-Romagna; 44029 fishing, salt harvesting and catching
Named in honour of the Risorgimento eels from the nearby lagoon. Founded
hero Giuseppe Garibaldi (1807–82), by the Etruscans and annexed by the
who landed here during his flight Romans, who built a canal to deepen
from the Austrians in 1849, this busy the lagoon, Comacchio went on to
fishing port has several sandy beaches, prosper under the Goths, Lombards,
perfect for a dip in the Adriatic. The Venetians and finally the Papal States.
Lido delle Nazioni, Lido di Pomposa, The historic centre is divided by
Lido degli Scacchi and the Lido degli canals with ten brick bridges. The
Estensi are all accessible from here by Treponti Bridge, built in 1634, has five EAT AND DRINK
ferry for foot or bicycle passengers. staircases, five semi-circular arches CASTELLO DI MESOLA
The town also has one of the largest and crosses five different canals. It’s Ristorante Al Castello moderate
fishing fleets in the Adriatic, with boats also possible to visit the eel pickling Set within the walled courtyard of
leaving the Magnavacca Canal early in factory, La Manifattura dei Marinati the castle, this trattoria puts on
the morning and returning later to (Corso Mazzini 200; open daily). a good show for locals and visitors
unload their catch. It’s easy to charter a ª Continue along Corso Mazzini, alike. Try steamed asparagus with
boat for a fishing trip from the harbour. past La Manifattura dei Marinati, turn cheese and truffles, pasta with venison
ragù, and chicken pieces covered with
ª Head west on Via Giacomo left, then right into Via Spina/SP1, left sesame seeds and fried.
Matteotti, which becomes Strada at Strada Poderale Belfiore, crossing Piazza Umberto I 9, 44026; 0533 993
Provinciale di Comacchio/SP1. At the canal, straight onto Via Arsa and 088; closed Mon & Tue
Comacchio, turn left at Via Trepponti/ Via Anita in Loc. Fosse passing Via IL BOSCO DELLA MESOLA
SP1 and follow the road around the Agosta along the edge of the lagoon, Il Bischero moderate
town. Turn right at roundabout to Corso then turn left on Via Martinella Rotta This restaurant has a warm and
Giuseppe Mazzini and ample parking. and park in a layby for the view. intimate atmosphere and serves robust
Tuscan cuisine such as choice salamis,
tagliatelle with wild boar sauce and
chargrilled steak Florentine.
Via Sacche, 344026; 3474 209 506;
www.ristorantelafalce.it; closed Mon &
Tue; also has gluten-free menu
ABBAZIA DI POMPOSA
Corte Madonnina moderate
This Azienda Agricola (farm business),
just south of the abbey, sells its own
wines direct to the public. The
adjoining farmhouse serves typical
cuisine: salama da sugo (medieval
sausage), pumpkin ravioli and eels.
SS Romea (Località per Volano 1),
Pomposa, 44020; 0533 719 002;
www.cortemadonnina.it; closed Mon
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€45; expensive, over €45


134-139_Back_Roads_Northern_Italy.indd 137 21/09/17 11:17 am

138 BACK ROADS NORTHERN AND CENTRAL ITALY














Above Flamingos feeding on the wetlands,
Valli di Comacchio Above right Sumptuous 8 Valli di Comacchio 9 Argenta
mosaic inside Ravenna’s Basilica di San Vitale Ferrara, Emilia-Romagna; 44022 Ferrara, Emilia-Romagna; 44011
Below Frescoed nave in the Basilica di The lagoons of Comacchio are As the mouth of the Po Primario, the
Sant’Apollinare Nuovo, Ravenna wetlands of international importance old River Po, silted up, channels were
and the centrepiece of the Parco Delta cut to the sea. One of these became
del Po (www.parcodeltapo.it/er), which known as the River Reno. On its
VISITING RAVENNA covers an area of 3,500 hectares (14 sq northern bank lies quiet Argenta, an
Tourist Information miles) and stretches from Chioggia to ideal spot for bird-watching forays to
Ravenna’s tourist offices sell a combined Comacchio. It was designated a World the Campotto Oasis, three small
ticket that includes entry to: the Basilica Heritage Site in 1999. Large raised lagoons south of the town. Just by
di Sant’Apollinare Nuovo, the Neonian banks divide the lagoons, providing the oasis stands the Parish Church of
Baptistry, the Basilica di San Vitale and
the Mausoleum of Galla Placidia. A clear flat paths perfect for cycling along, San Giorgio (Via Cardinala), built in
map is provided with the ticket. and here and there stand the remains 569, it is one of the oldest buildings in
Via Fiandrini Benedetto, Via Di Roma of fishing lodges and small salt pans. the delta. Although the church is
or Piazza Duomo; 0544 541 688; The shallow, brackish waters are an rarely open, its portal of Roman
www.turismo.ravenna.it
ideal habitat for more than 300 marble is worth a look. Further south,
species of water birds. Species that on the same road, is the excellent
can often be sighted include Museo delle Valli (closed Mon; www.
flamingoes, avocets, spoonbills, vallidiargenta.org). Traditional life in
shelducks, black-winged stilts, slender- the delta, land reclamation and local
WHERE TO STAY
billed gulls and Mediterranean gulls. wildlife are well covered by its displays
AROUND ARGENTA Visitors can also view the lagoon and bicycles are available to hire for
Val Campotto inexpensive by boat or from walking trails. an excursion around the lagoon.
This farm stay, just south of the lagoon, ª Return along Via Martinella Rotta. ª From Argenta, turn right into Via
has nine rooms and a pleasantly rustic Turn left at Via Valle Umana, at Anita Nazionale Ponente/SS16 for 36 km
ambience. There is local produce for turn right on Via Fossa dei Socialisti (22 miles). Take the exit for Ravenna
sale and an onsite restaurant.
Strada M Margotti 2, 44011 Campotto and left on Via Pagana that leads Centro, follow Via Faentina/SS253,
di Argenta; 0532 800 516; to Longastrino. Turn right at Via then go left at Circonvallazione San
www.valcampotto.it; offers bicycle hire Molinetto/SP10, which curves left. Gaetanino. Turn sharp right at Via Don
RAVENNA Turn right at Via Giovanni Amendola/ Giovanni Minzoni, fork right, then turn
SS16, which continues to Argenta. left into car park at Largo Giustiniano.
Hotel Centrale Byron inexpensive
This budget hotel is in the historic
centre and offers basic, but clean and
comfortable facilities. There is parking
in a nearby private garage.
Via IV Novembre 14, 48121; 0544 212
225; www.hotelsravenna.it
Villa Santa Maria in Foris moderate
Set in a comfortable, restored villa in
the historic centre, this hotel offers
pleasant, modern rooms.
Via Giuseppe Pasolini 61, 48100; 0544
212 163; www.villaforis.it
Albergo Cappello moderate–expensive
A superb Renaissance palazzo only
a few steps from Piazza del Popolo –
some rooms and suites have period
furnishings with elegant frescoes.
Via IV Novembre 41, 48121; 0544 219
813; www.albergocappello.it
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €100; moderate, €100–€200; expensive, over €200

134-139_Back_Roads_Northern_Italy.indd 138 21/09/17 11:17 am

DRIVE 13: The Po Delta 139


0 Ravenna collection of fabrics, ivories, coins
Ravenna, Emilia-Romagna; 48100 and icons. To the left, in Via San
From AD 402 until 476, Ravenna was Vitale/Via Salara, the information
the capital of the Western Roman office offers free bicycles for exploring
Empire and remained the capital of the city. Nearby Via Cavour is a fine
Byzantine Italy until the 8th century. shopping street, which leads to
The city’s importance in the early Piazza Andrea Costa and the covered
Christian era endowed it with market (morning only) selling flowers,
astonishing monuments and lavishly fish, meat and cheese and all manner
decorated churches – eight buildings of fresh local produce. Via IV
have been listed by UNESCO. But Novembre leads straight to elegant Above Free yellow bicycles available for
Ravenna is a living city and not just Piazza del Popolo with its two tourists in Ravenna
an architectural museum – its piazzas Venetian-style columns with saints
and historic monuments are linked Apollinare and Vitale perched on top.
by pleasant streets bustling with Behind is Palazzo Communale and to EAT AND DRINK
local life. The octagonal Basilica di the left, Palazzo Veneziano, built when ARGENTA AND AROUND
San Vitale (open daily), built 527–48, Ravenna was part of the Venetian
is the only major church from the Republic in the 15th century. The Oasi inexpensive
This is the closest bar/trattoria to the
period of Emperor Justinian I to survive archway in Palazzo Veneziano leads Museo di Valli and it is possible to pick
virtually intact. Its colourful mosaics to Via Cairoli, a narrow shopping street up a picnic lunch to enjoy in the park.
are the height of Byzantine splendour with Liberty-style shop façades. Via Vallesanta 6, 44011; 0532 808 017;
– look for the emperor portrayed The Basilica di Sant’Apollinare open Tue–Sun lunch, Fri–Sun eve
with court officials, and on the Nuovo (combined ticket), in Via di Roma, Ristorante Patuelli moderate
opposite wall, the Empress Theodora. has a cylindrical bell tower and some Situated opposite the parkland south of
Within the complex is the small of the largest Byzantine mosaics the museum, this place serves superb
chargrilled eel and other local delicacies.
building of the Mausoleum of Galla (6th century). Directly opposite, Via Via Cardinala 11/a, Campotto 44011;
Placidia (included in group ticket), Negri leads into Largo Firenze and 0532 808 314; closed Mon & Tue
regarded as the best preserved of the the side door to the Basilica di San RAVENNA
mosaic monuments, and the Museo Francesco, its 10th-century crypt full
Nazionale di Ravenna (separate ticket), of water with fish swimming over the Gustavo Bizantino inexpensive
Eat with the locals at this busy self-
in the cloisters, with 14th-century 5th-century mosaic floor. Leave by the service buffet within the covered market.
frescoes of Santa Chiara and a front door into Piazza San Francesco. Great fresh food and you can pile your
Through the garden to the right is plate high with delicious bread, grilled
Below The exterior of the Byzantine Basilica the Neo-Classical Tomb of Dante vegetables and fresh salads.
di San Vitale, Ravenna (open daily; free entry) – the Italian poet Mercato Coperto, Piazza Andrea Costa,
48100; 0544 32073; lunch only
died here in 1321. In Piazza Duomo
stands the last of the combined ticket Osteria dei Battibecchi moderate
sites: the late 4th- or early 5th-century This small place has a small but tasty
menu – home-made lasagne, pork hot
Neonian Baptistry. The octagonal pot with cardoons, and caramelized figs.
building contains delightful Greco- Via Della Tesoreria Vecchia 16, 48100;
Roman influenced frescoes. From here, 0544 219 536; closed Mon
Via Cavour runs towards the imposing Enoteca Ca’ de Ven moderate
16th-century Porta Adriana. Left at Via This bar/restaurant, in a historic
Barbiani is the Domus dei Tappeti di palazzo near Dante’s Tomb, is a
Ravenna institution – try the piadina
Pietra (open daily, entry through San and crescioni (filled Italian flatbreads).
Eufemia), the site of a Roman villa and Via Corrado Ricci 24, 48100; 0544 30163;
beautiful Byzantine mosaics. www.cadeven.it; closed Mon
DAY TRIP OPTIONS buildings and lunch in the countryside. pickling factory, then head off to
Adults will enjoy Ferrara and Ravenna’s Next explore the great churches and Porto Garibaldi 6 for lunch on the
historic buildings, while the watery Byzantine mosaics in Ravenna 0. beach. Drive north to the woods of
wildlife-filled Po Delta and the beach The SS16 joins all these stops. Bosco della Mesola to glimpse the
will keep young families busy. shy deer, or just stay on the beach.
The natural world
Art and architecture From Ravenna 0, pack a picnic and Head north from Ravenna on SP1,
At Ferrara 1, spend half a day seeing set off early to Valli di Comacchio 8, turning left at Cruser following signs to
the city’s frescoes and Renaissance to spend a couple of hours watching Comacchio. Retrace drive instructions
architecture, then head off to Argenta the water birds on the lagoon. Carry to Porto Garibaldi, then head up along
9 to visit one of the delta’s oldest on to Comacchio 7 to visit the eel the coast to Bosco Mesola.

Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€45; expensive, over €45


134-139_Back_Roads_Northern_Italy.indd 139 21/09/17 11:17 am

BRNI_140-141_OpnDrv14.indd 140 04/11/11 5:05 PM
Back Roads LAYERS PRINTED:
Section opener template “UK” LAYER
(OpenType)
Date 02 November 2009
Size 145mm x 217mm
Font Myriad Pro

DRIVE 14





Milan
Turin IT AL Y Venice
Bologna
Florence
Perugia
Rome



The Azure

Coast to the

Po Valley


Genoa to

Portovenere



Highlights

• Magnificent palazzos
Explore the grand historic palaces
and the dark tangle of ancient
alleyways in vibrant Genoa
• Ham, violets and fine art
Discover the architectural and artistic
gems amid the gourmet delights of
historic and affluent Parma
• Golfo dei Poeti
Take in the exquisitely framed views
of the sea at beautiful Portovenere
where Lord Byron once swam
• Apennine scenery
Zig-zag around the mountains and
through the untouched countryside
of the tree-clad Apennines



The pretty seafront at Portovenere and
the Chiesa di San Pietro




BRNI_140-141_OpnDrv14.indd 141 04/11/11 5:05 PM

142 BACK ROADS NORTHERN AND CENTRAL ITALY

The Azure Coast to the Po Valley

At the western end of the Riviera di Levante, Genoa, the capital of Liguria, is
Cerv Cervaraara
a dynamic, multi-layered city, with the extra spice of being a working port. Sor Sorbolobolo
Poriglio
Poriglio
Built on the wealth of merchants, it’s a city of glittering Baroque churches, of Cast Castello di Sottoello di Sotto
16th- and 17th-century palazzos and of fish and oranges spilling out of dark Noc Nocetoeto Taro PARMA PARMA Cadelbosc Canale Tas sone Canale Tas sone Bagnolo inBagnolo in
Cadelboscoo
alleyways. At the eastern end of the Riviera, literary La Spezia, the naval capital Medesano Taro San Sant’ Ilariot’ Ilario di S di Sopraopra
Medesano
d’Enza
of Liguria, is big brother to pretty Portovenere, and gateway to the Cinque Terre. Collec d’Enza Piano
Piano
Collecchiochio
Varano
Varano
Inland, above the farms and unspoilt Apennine countryside, affluent Parma de’M de’Melegarielegari Felino Mon Montecchiotecchio Cavr Cavriagoiago
Felino
Emilia
Emilia
REGGIO
Pilastroo
and Reggio Emilia take well-deserved pride in what they have produced – Gazz Gazzoo Rovina Vianino Forno Pilastr REGGIO
Rovina
Fornovo divo di
EMILIA
EMILIA
Vianino
Taro
Taro
CASTELLO DI Bibbiano
fabulous art and architecture and the famed prosciutto and Parmigiano. Bardi Bardi Mar Marzolarazolara CASTELLO DI Bibbiano
TORRECHIAR
TORRECHIARAA
Puianello
Pon Pontecenoteceno Ceno Ceno Puianello
di Sopr
di Sopraa
LANGHIRANOANO
Gorr Gorretoeto Solig Solignanonano Cássio Calestano LANGHIR
Calestano
Cássio
EMILIA-ROMAGNA
Vezzano sul ScandianoScandiano
Croc Crocefieschiefieschi EMILIA-ROMAGNA Enza Enza Vezzano sul
Crostoloolo
Crost
Boschi
Cerézzolaola
Fáscia
Fáscia Rov Rovegnoegno Boschi M. la M. la TagliataTagliata Ravar Ravaranoano Cerézz
Busalla 1231m Ghiar Ghiaree
Busalla
1231m
S. St S. Stéfanoéfano Pon Pontecenoteceno Parma Parma UrzanoUrzano Bétt Béttolaola
Castelmozzano Trinità
Óstia
Casella
Casella d’Áv d’Ávetoeto Parmense Óstia Fugazz la Str la Stradaada Castelmozzano Trinità
Parmense
Fugazzoloolo
Bedónia
di Sopraa
Pedemon Pén Péntematema Bedónia di Sopr Tassobio Casina Rotéglia
Pedemontete
Casina Rotéglia
Compiano
Tassobio
Mon Montóggiotóggio Costaf Casoni Compiano Corchia
Corchia BERCETO
Sécchia
Costafontanaontana
Casoni
Miano
Cret Cretoo Cabanne Tórnolo Bor Borgogo BERCETO Miano Ranzano Rosano Fariolo Carpineti Sécchia
Cabanne
Ranzano
Tórnolo
Rosano Fariolo
Carpineti
LIGURIA Neirone S. M S. Mariaaria Taro Casale Val Val di Tarodi Taro Bosc Boscoo Palanzano Selv Selvanizzaanizza Colombáia Lugo Lugo
Palanzano
d. Taro aro
LIGURIA Neirone
d. Taro
Colombáia
Casale
Passo di
Giaiettee
Cicheroo
Cicher Giaiett T Passo di Mun Muntelungotelungo Cast Castelnovoelnovo
Cento Crocioci
ne’montiti
Úscio Úscio Lavagna Cicag Cicagnana Cento Cr Mon Montiti Riana Riana Can Canovaova ne’mon Cerr Cerrédoloédolo
1055m
1055m
Cassego Enza Enza Cerv Cervarezzaarezza
Cassego
Lavagna
GENOAA
GENO Aveg Avegnono Borgono Pon Pontrémolitrémoli Stor Storlolo Dolo Dolo
Borgonovovo
M. Focetto
Busana
(GENOV Bogliasc Rapallo Lígur Líguree Varese M. Focetto Lago Lago Busana Villa Villa
Varese
Bogliascoo
(GENOVA)A)
Rapallo
1536m
1536m
Líguree
Camogli
Golfo dio di
Golf Camogli Carasc Consc Lígur Zeri Zeri Filattier Linari Linari Paduli Capr Caprileile Mino Minozzazza
Carascoo
Paduli
Filattieraa
Conscentienti
Genovava
Geno S. M S. Margheritaargherita Cerreto Romanor
Romanoroo
Lígur Chiá Chiávarivari Vara Vara Sassalbo dell’ dell’AlpiAlpi Ózola
Líguree
Sassalbo
Libiola
Port Portofinoofino Libiola Torza Torza Pon Pontete Parana Varano
Parana
Cerreto Ózola
Varano
Campone
Sestr Sestri Levantei Levante Santa Taverone Taverone Campone Cerv Cervaroloarolo
Santa
Carro Carro Cera Ceratellitelli di Sillano
di Sillano
Brug Brugnatonato
TOSCANA
Sannac TOSCANA
Sannacoo
Fivizzano
Déiv Déiva Marinaa Marina Fivizzano
Bolano
Bolano Aulla Aulla Gassano San San
Gassano
Donnino
Pignone
Bonassola Pignone Donnino
Bonassola
Leva Levantonto C í n q u e T e r r e S. St S. Stéfanoéfano Tener Teneranoano Vinca Vinca Gramolazz
Gramolazzoo
di M di Magraagra
Mon Monterossoterosso M. Pisanino
M. Pisanino
Sarzana
C í n q u e T e r r e
1945m
al M al Mareare Sarzana 1945m Vagli S
Vagli Sopraopra
Grag Gragnananana
Gronda
LA SPEZIA
LA SPEZIA Car Carrararara Gronda
Lérici
R i v i e r a d i L e v a n t e
R i v i e r a d i L e v a n t e PORTOVENERE
PORTOVENERE Lérici Bocca
Bocca
di M di Magraagra
Isola
Isola
Massa
Above Basilica San Prospero and Piazza KEY Palmar Isola Isola di C Mar Marinaina Massa
Palmariaia
di Carrasaarrasa
del Tino
del Tino
San Prospero, Reggio Emilia, see p146 Drive route
Below right Cattedrale di San Lorenzo,
Genoa, see p144
ACTIVITIES
Explore Genoa, Europe’s largest medieval centre, and
climb the hills above for a panoramic overview
Take a boat from Portovenere for the sparkling Golfo
dei Poeti (Gulf of Poets) and the lovely islands of
Palmária, Tino and Tinetto
Sample the delights of the Po Valley – from the
freshest of fish on the coast to the renowned
Parmigiano and prosciutto from Parma
Go hunting for mushrooms in the Apennines
Cycle around the historic sites of Parma at a
leisurely pace
142-143_Back_Roads_Northern_Italy.indd 142 06/11/17 5:27 pm

DRIVE 14: The Azure Coast to the Po Valley 143

PLAN YOUR DRIVE

Start/finish: Genoa to Portovenere.
Cerv Cervaraara
Sor Sorbolobolo
Poriglio Number of days: 4–5, allowing a day
Poriglio
Cast Castello di Sottoello di Sotto for Genoa, a trip to Parma and time to
Noc Nocetoeto Canale Tas sone Bagnolo inBagnolo in enjoy La Spezia and Portovenere.
Taro Taro PARMA PARMA Cadelbosc Canale Tas sone
Cadelboscoo
Medesano San Sant’ Ilariot’ Ilario di S di Sopraopra Distance: Approx 325 km (200 miles).
Medesano
d’Enza
Collecchiochio
Collec d’Enza Piano
Piano
Varano Mon Montecchiotecchio Cavr Cavriagoiago Road conditions: Mountain roads are
Varano
Felino
de’M de’Melegarielegari Felino Emilia twisting and slow, and the coast road
REGGIO
Emilia
Pilastroo
Rovina
Rovina Pilastr REGGIO
Fornovo divo di
EMILIA
Gazz Gazzoo Vianino Forno CASTELLO DI EMILIA coast is winding and busy in summer.
Vianino
Taro
Taro
CASTELLO DI Bibbiano
TORRECHIARAA
Bardi Bardi Ceno Ceno Mar Marzolarazolara TORRECHIAR Bibbiano
Puianello
Pon Pontecenoteceno Puianello When to go: Genoa can be good to visit
di Sopraa
di Sopr
LANGHIRANOANO
Calestano
Gorr Gorretoeto Solig Solignanonano Cássio Calestano LANGHIR in winter. It gets full during the Boat
Cássio
EMILIA-ROMAGNA
Vezzano sul ScandianoScandiano
Croc Crocefieschiefieschi EMILIA-ROMAGNA Enza Enza Vezzano sul Show in Sep, and some places close for
Crostoloolo
Crost
Cerézzolaola
Boschi
Fáscia
Fáscia Rov Rovegnoegno Boschi M. la M. la TagliataTagliata Ravar Ravaranoano Cerézz
Busalla
Busalla 1231m Ghiar Ghiaree Aug. The interior is accessible all year,
1231m
S. St S. Stéfanoéfano Pon Pontecenoteceno Parma Parma UrzanoUrzano Bétt Béttolaola
Castelmozzano Trinità
Óstia
Casella
Casella d’Áv d’Ávetoeto Parmense Óstia Fugazz la Str la Stradaada Castelmozzano Trinità although snow chains may be needed
Fugazzoloolo
Parmense
Bedónia
Pedemon Pén Péntematema Bedónia di Sopr Tassobio Casina Rotéglia in winter. The coast gets busy Jul & Aug.
Casina Rotéglia
di Sopraa
Pedemontete
Compiano
Tassobio
Mon Montóggiotóggio Costaf Casoni Compiano Corchia
Sécchia
Corchia BERCETO
Costafontanaontana
Casoni
Miano
Cret Cretoo Cabanne Tórnolo Bor Borgogo BERCETO Miano Ranzano Rosano Fariolo Carpineti Sécchia Opening times: Major museums open
Cabanne
Tórnolo
Rosano Fariolo
Ranzano
Carpineti
LIGURIA Neirone S. M S. Mariaaria Taro Casale Val Val di Tarodi Taro Bosc Boscoo Palanzano Selv Selvanizzaanizza Colombáia Lugo Lugo 9am–7pm Tue–Fri and from 10am Sat
Palanzano
d. Taro aro
LIGURIA Neirone
d. Taro
Colombáia
Casale
Passo di
Giaiettee
Cicheroo
Cicher Giaiett T Passo di Mun Muntelungotelungo Cast Castelnovoelnovo & Sun. Some museums and smaller
Cento Crocioci
ne’montiti
Úscio Úscio Lavagna Cicag Cicagnana Cento Cr Mon Montiti Riana Riana Can Canovaova ne’mon Cerr Cerrédoloédolo churches close early afternoon. Shops
1055m
1055m
Cassego Enza Enza Cerv Cervarezzaarezza
Cassego
Lavagna
GENO Aveg Avegnono Borgono Pon Pontrémolitrémoli Stor Storlolo Dolo Dolo are closed all day Sun and Mon am, and
GENOAA
Borgonovovo
M. Focetto
Busana
(GENOV Bogliasc Rapallo Lígur Líguree Varese M. Focetto Lago Lago Busana Villa Villa open 9am–12:30pm and 3:30–7:30pm
(GENOVA)A)
Varese
Bogliascoo
Rapallo
1536m
1536m
Líguree
Camogli
Golf Camogli Carasc Consc Lígur Zeri Zeri Filattier Linari Linari Paduli Capr Caprileile Mino Minozzazza on other days (large shops stay open
Carascoo
Golfo dio di
Paduli
Filattieraa
Conscentienti
Geno S. M S. Margheritaargherita Cerreto Romanor
Genovava
Romanoroo
Líguree
Lígur Chiá Chiávarivari Vara Vara Sassalbo dell’ dell’AlpiAlpi Ózola all day). Parma’s shops close Thu pm.
Sassalbo
Libiola
Port Portofinoofino Libiola Torza Torza Pon Pontete Parana Varano
Parana
Cerreto Ózola
Varano
Campone
Sestr Sestri Levantei Levante Santa Taverone Taverone Campone Cerv Cervaroloarolo Main market days: Genoa: Mon–Sat;
Santa
Carro Carro Cera Ceratellitelli di Sillano
di Sillano
Brug Brugnatonato Parma: Wed & Sat; Reggio Emilia: Tue
TOSCANA
Sannacoo
Sannac TOSCANA & Fri; La Spezia: Fri.
Fivizzano
Déiv Déiva Marinaa Marina Fivizzano
Bolano Aulla Aulla Gassano San San
Bolano
Gassano
Donnino
Pignone
Bonassola Pignone Donnino Shopping: In Genoa, look for pesto,
Bonassola
Leva Levantonto C í n q u e T e r r e S. St S. Stéfanoéfano Tener Teneranoano Vinca Vinca Gramolazz trenette (short linguini) and trofie (pasta
Gramolazzoo
di M di Magraagra
M. Pisanino
Mon Monterossoterosso M. Pisanino twists); in Langhirano, prosciutto and
C í n q u e T e r r e
Sarzana
al M al Mareare Sarzana 1945m Vagli S culatello (hams) and, in the mountains,
1945m
Vagli Sopraopra
Grag Gragnananana
Gronda
LA SPEZIA Car Carrararara Gronda porcini mushrooms. Parma is justly
LA SPEZIA
Lérici
R i v i e r a d i L e v a n t e
PORTOVENERE Lérici Bocca 0 kilometres 15 famous for its ham, cheese and Parma
R i v i e r a d i L e v a n t e PORTOVENERE
Bocca
di M di Magraagra violets. Reggio Emilia’s shops also sell
Isola Isola Mar Marinaina Massa
Massa
Palmariaia
Palmar Isola Isola 0 miles 15 Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese.
del Tino di C di Carrasaarrasa
del Tino
Major festivals: Genoa: Holy Week
Below Picturesque scenery en route to Langhirano, see p145
processions, Easter; Festival Musicale
del Mediterraneo (concerts at the port),
Jul & Aug; International Boat Show, 2nd
week in Sep; La Spezia: Palio del Golfo
(rowing race), 1st Sun in Aug; Parma:
Festival del Prosciutto, Sep; Palio
(medieval sports), Sep; Verdi Festival,
Oct; Portovenere: Festa della Madonna
Bianca (religious procession), mid-Aug.
DAY TRIP OPTIONS
It takes a full day to see the sights and
spend time in the museums, churches
and palazzos in Genoa. From there,
drive along the coast to visit the port
of La Spezia and romantic Portovenere
with its castle, grotto and islands. For
full details, see p147.
142-143_Back_Roads_Northern_Italy.indd 143 06/11/17 5:27 pm

144 BACK ROADS NORTHERN AND CENTRAL ITALY

1 Genoa (Genova)
Genoa; 16100
Surrounded by hills and looking out to sea, proud Genoa was
trans formed in the 16th and 17th centuries, when its wealthy mer­
chants commissioned grand palazzos in what was then named “Strada
Nuova” (New Street) – now called Via Garibaldi, it is a UNESCO World
Heritage Site and three of the palazzos are world­class museums.
For stunning views of the historic centre, take the lift to Castelletto.

A three-hour walking tour Stradone di Sant’Agostino leads to the
Start from the De Ferrari metro station Romanesque Chiesa di San Donato 6
and follow Via Dante to the two towers with an octagonal campanile, a rose
of the Porta Soprana 1, a gate in the window and, inside, striped columns
12th­century walls that separate the and a painted ceiling. Follow Via San
Above The huge arch of medieval Porta historic from the modern city. The Vico Donato round the church to Piazza
Soprana, the main entrance to Genoa Dritto di Ponticello leads past the delle Erbe, with a full range of bars,
Chiostro di Sant’ Andrea 2, a ruined including lively Bar Berto 7 (1904),
12th­century cloister that was once decorated with tiles from Albisola.
part of a Benedictine monastery. Casa Walk back past the church to Via
VISITING GENOA di Christoforo Colombo 3, the sup­ San Bernardo and look for the Antica
Parking posed boyhood home of Christopher Drogheria Torielli 8, filled with all
The main car park is under Piazza della Columbus, is next door. Return to Porta kinds of herbs and spices.
Vittoria, where bus tickets for the city can Soprana and turn left into Via Ravecca, Via San Bernardo leads to arcaded
be bought. The centre is closed to traffic.
past the bell tower and cloisters of the Via Turati. Turn right and keep going
Tourist Information 13th­century Chiesa di Sant’ Agostino, until the sign for Vico dei Caprettari is
Via Garibaldi 12r; 010 557 2903; open
daily; www.visitgenoa.it now the Museo di Sant’ Agostino 4, on the right. Look in (or get a haircut)
with works by Giovanni Pisano (1250– at the Barbiere 9, to admire the Art
1315) and Antonio Canova (1757– Deco ornamentation. The alleyways
1822). The museum fronts Piazza di here have an enticing mix of shops.
Sarzano 5, so long, that it was once Turn left into Via di Cannetto then
used for jousting and rope­making. right into Via San Lorenzo with its
striped 12th­century
WHERE TO STAY Cattedrale di San
Belvedere Lorenzo 0, flanked by
Montaldo
GENOA two lions. Look inside for
Cristoforo Colombo moderate Palazzo Bianco Public Lift the Renaissance
Colourful and elegant rooms in the Palazzo Doria-Tursi PORTELLO Cappella di San Giovanni
PIAZZA
historic part of the city. In summer, Palazzo Rosso V I A G . G A R I B A L D I Battista, once home to St
breakfast is served on the roof terrace.
Via Porta Soprana 27, 16123; 010 251 VIA DELLA MADDALENA V. FERRO PIAZZA John the Baptist’s ashes.
3643; www.hotelcolombo.it FONTANE Carry on to Piazza
MAROSE
DI SOZIGLIA
Cairoli moderate Klainguti and Romanengo VIA DEI MACELLI VIA L UCCOLI Matteotti and the 16th­
Coffee Houses
Contemporary art inspires the bright century Palazzo Ducale
and fresh rooms in this palazzo hotel, V. SOZIGLIA V I A X X V A P R I L E q. Look inside for
V I A S . L U C A
with an outdoor terrace and small exhibitions. For some
gym. Garage parking is available. MATTEO Baroque pomp,
V. SAN
Via Cairoli 14/4, 16124; 010 246 1454; Cattedrale di SALITA ARCIVESCOVADO Teatro
www.hotelcairoligenova.com Barbiere V. DI CANNETO IL CURTO San Lorenzo Carlo Felice continue to the right of
Locanda di Palazzo Cicala expensive VIA TURATI V I A S A N L O R E N Z O Palazzo Piazza Matteotti and the
Ducale
PIAZZA
Chic hotel with large rooms and stucco VIA DI CANNETO IL LUNGO DE FERRARI De Chiesa del Gesù w, full
PIAZZA
ceilings in an 18th­century palazzo MATTEOTTI Ferrari of coloured marble, gilt
near the cathedral. Paid parking nearby. VIA SAN BERNARDO Antica Chiesa del Gesù stucco and frescoes. Take
Piazza San Lorenzo 16, 16123; 010 251 Drogheria Torielli PIAZZA Bar Berto VIA DANTE Salita Arcivescovado,
DELLE
ERBE
8824; www.palazzocicala.it Chiesa di VIA D S. DON ATO Chiostro di Casa di turn left onto Vico San
Cristoforo
AROUND BERCETO San Donato Sant’ Andrea Colombo Matteo, then right to Via
PIAZZA
S. DONATO
Museo di
Villa Tre Angeli inexpensive 0 metres 200 Sant’ Agostino Porta Soziglia for a drink and a
The owners of this pretty pink Liberty­ STRADONE SANT’ AGOSTINO cake in coffee houses
style villa are very helpful and can 0 yards 200 V I A D I R AV E C C A Soprana Klainguti or Romanengo
VIA DEL C OLLE
arrange mushroom­picking expeditions Piazza di PASSO DELLE M URETTE
and Parmigiano and prosciutto tours. Sarzano e, dating from 1800s. A
Via Roma 37, Bedonia 43041; 0525 824 left turn at the end of Via
841; www.villatreangeli.com Soziglia onto Vico del
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €100; moderate, €100–€200; expensive, over €200
144-147_Back_Roads_Northern_Italy.indd 144 06/11/17 5:30 pm
Back Roads LAYERS PRINTED:
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Date 02 November 2009
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DRIVE 14: The Azure Coast to the Po Valley 145


Ferro leads to Via Garibaldi and its
great palazzos. Step inside Palazzo
Doria-Tursi r for the beautiful court-
yard and double marble staircase and
view the stucco work. The Palazzo
Bianco t has wonderful paintings by
Filippino Lippi, Veronese and
Caravaggio, as well as Dutch and
Flemish masters Rubens, Van Dyck and
Memling. The Palazzo Rosso y has
paintings, furniture and 17th-century
frescoes. Continue to Piazza Fontane
Marose and Via XXV Aprile, passing the
19th-century Teatro Carlo Felice u,
home of Genoa’s opera house.
If there’s still time, take the Liberty-
style lift from Piazza Portello, off Via
Garibaldi, up to Belvedere Montaldo
i for sweeping views. If staying
longer in Genoa, take time to explore Above top The port of Genoa, facing the
the port area. the village depended on its nearby Ligurian Sea Above left Mural of St George
ª Follow signs to motorway A12 east mines, which only closed in 1943. slaying the dragon on the town hall, Genoa
to the Chiavari exit, signed Parma then ª Take SP15 to Calestano, then Above right The spectacular Castello
SP225 to Carasco. Take SP586, then turn follow signs for Langhirano. Torrechiara, near Langhirano Below left The
right on SP26bis. Continue up the Passo picturesque village of Calestano
del Bocco and take the SP3 through 3 Langhirano
Bedonia. Follow signs for A15 on Parma; 43100 SHOPPING IN TORRECHIARA
SP523. After railway bridge, turn right It is a lovely drive through Calestano, Buy prosciutto, salami and Parmigiano
for Berceto. Park in Piazza San Giovanni. where the countryside opens out into at Salumeria da Gardoni (Piazza Leoni
5, 43010; 0521 355119; www.www.
For Corchia, follow signs to Corchia. green terraced meadows, vines and facebook.com/gardonitorrechiara).
orchards. The next town, Langhirano,
2 Berceto is dedicated to the curing of air-dried EAT AND DRINK
Parma; 43042 ham; its many factories open their
The road to Berceto climbs through windows to what is said to be a GENOA
the Apennines and chestnut, beech perfect combination of sea and Il Cadraio moderate
and oak forests to the Valle del Taro, mountain air. The Museo del Prosciutto Traditional genoese specialties served
which is porcini mushroom country. (open weekends) in the Foro Boario, a in a cozy, rustic trattoria. Great wine list.
Quiet Berceto, with its stone houses former cattle market, tells the history Vico dietro il coro della Maddalena, 26r,
Genoa 16124; 010 247 4095; www.
and cobbled streets, has changed little and process from pig to plate. facebook.com/ilcadraio/
since it was an important stop on the ª Take SP665 to the signposted Da Rina expensive
Via Francigena. Its main attraction is Castello di Torrechiara and car park. This restaurant in an old warehouse
the Romanesque Duomo di San overlooking the Porto Antico serves
Moderanno, which has a 12th-century 4 Castello di Torrechiara fish dishes and excellent antipasti.
lunette of the Crucifixion. Parma; 43010 Mura delle Grazie 3r, 16128; 010 246
6475; www.ristorantedarina.it
Time has also passed by the village This impressive castle (closed Mon) was
of Corchia, tucked away in chestnut built in the 15th century for defence, Other options
groves a little west of Berceto. Dating as can be seen by the three rings of For great focaccia, try Forno Patrone
(Via Ravecca 72r, 16128; 010 251 1093;
back to the 13th century, everything walls and four square towers, and also closed Wed pm) near the Porta Soprana.
here is made of stone. For 400 years as a family residence. There are a series
of vivid 16th-century frescoes: the AROUND BERCETO
Salone degli Acrobati (Acrobats’ Room) Trattoria Corchia inexpensive
The small trattoria in tiny Corchia
shows gymnasts in a human pyramid specializes in local game and mushroom
on the backs of lions and the Camera dishes and is also known for its pizzas.
d’Oro (Golden Room) tells the love Corchia 43042; 0525 61814; closed Mon
story between Count Pier Maria Rossi, La Pergola moderate–expensive
for whom the castle was built, and his This traditional restaurant puts
lover, Bianca Pelligrini. mushrooms to the fore – expect porcini
risotto and wild mushroom soufflé.
ª Take SP665 to Parma. Use a free car Via Garibaldi 19, Bedonia 43041; 0525
park off the tangenziale (ring road). Buy 826 612; www.ristorante-lapergola.it;
a ticket from machine for bus to centre. closed Thu
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€45; expensive over €45

144-147_Back_Roads_Northern_Italy.indd 145 21/09/17 11:19 am

146 BACK ROADS NORTHERN AND CENTRAL ITALY



















Above left Boats in La Spezia’s harbour
Above right Piazza Prampolini, Reggio Emilia 5 Parma The Museo Glauco Lombardi in Via
Below Statue of the 16th-century artist Parma; 43100 Garibaldi is testament to Maria Luigia,
Parmigianino in Piazza Santa Maria della Seductive Parma is a treasure house who became Duchess of Parma in
Steccata, Parma of art and architecture, and a store of 1815 after Napoleon’s abdication, and
gastronomic delights. The 11th-century was a famous fan of Parma violets.
Duomo reflects both aspects. It is Her dresses, jewellery, family portraits
ACTIVITIES IN PARMA home to works by two sons of Parma and watercolours are all on show.
Explore the car-free centre of town by – Parmagianino (1503–40) and ª From the tangenziale take SS9 to
hiring a bike from one of the Punto Correggio (1489–1534), who painted Reggio Emilia. Park in the centre at
Bici (www.infomobility.pr.it) pick-up the Assumption (1534) in the central Caserma Zucchi on Viale Isonzo.
and drop-off points in the city. For tours cupola, and at the main entrance is
of prosciutto and Parmigiano factories 6 Reggio Emilia
with tastings, try Food Valley Gourmet the earliest known bas-relief of the
Tours (Viale Frati 38D; 0521 798 515; slaughter of a pig. Next door, the Emilia Romagna; 42100
www.foodvalleytravel.com). 13th-century octagonal baptistery, As affluent as its neighbour Parma,
by architect and sculptor Benedetto if less glamourous, Reggio Emilia is a
Antelami (c.1150–1230), is a confection pleasant town to visit, with two large,
WHERE TO STAY
of pink and white Verona marble. lively central squares. Piazza
PARMA Don’t miss the decorative interior. Prampolini holds the Duomo, topped
Hotel Torino moderate–expensive Stroll over the green lawn to the by a brick octagonal lantern tower, its
This comfortable hotel, furnished in vast Palazzo della Pilotta, built by the Romanesque upper half in contrast
modern style, is right in the historic Farnese family and housing several to the 16th-century marble lower
centre and has garage parking. museums. A visit to the Galleria half, where Adam and Eve appear
Borgo Angelo Mazza 7, 43121; 0521 Nazionale (Tue–Sun) allows a closer in the lunette over the doorway. In
281 046; www.hotel-torino.it
look at works by Parmagianino, the same square, in 1797 the Palazzo
REGGIO EMILIA Correggio and others. Here, too, is del Capitano del Popolo flew the red,
Albergo delle Notarie moderate the Museo Archeologico Nazionale green and white tricolor that was
In the heart of the city, this hotel (open daily) and the wooden Teatro later – in 1848 – to become Italy’s
has views of the cathedral, a good
restaurant and parking. Farnese, inaugurated in 1628, when national flag. It’s a brief walk along
Via Palazzolo 5, 42121; 0522 453 500; the auditorium was flooded to the colonnaded street to Piazza San
www.albergonotarie.it present a naumachia (naval battle). Prospero and the Baroque Basilica
The three-tier auditorium has a San Prospero, its façade busy with
LA SPEZIA
Hotel Firenze e Continentale revolving stage, the first in Italy. statues of saints, and guarded by
moderate six pink Verona marble lions. The
This large hotel with an attractive profuse displays of sculpture, natural
marble and wood interior offers stylish history and archaeology in the
and comfortable accommodation. antique glass cases of the Musei
Via Paleocapa 7, 19122; 0187 713 200;
www.hotelfirenzecontinentale.it Civici are a work of art in themselves.
Don’t miss the fine black and white
PORTOVENERE medieval mosaics in the entrance hall.
Belvedere moderate ª Take SS63 south towards La Spezia.
This family-run hotel offers a terrace At Aulla, join SS62 and follow signs for
overlooking the sea, rooms with
balconies and on-site parking. A15 to La Spezia and the road by the
Via Garibaldi 26, 19025; 0187 790 608; port. Turn right on Viale Amendola
www.belvedereportovenere.it and park in Piazza d’Armi (2nd left).


144-147_Back_Roads_Northern_Italy.indd 146 06/10/17 2:59 pm
Back Roads LAYERS PRINTED:
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Date 02 November 2009
Size 145mm x 217mm
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DRIVE 14: The Azure Coast to the Po Valley 147

BOAT TRIPS AND FERRIES
8 Portovenere For information on passenger boats
La Spezia, Liguria; 19025 between La Spezia and Portovenere,
Dependent on fish in Roman times, Isola Palmária and the Cinque Terre, visit
when it was known as Portus Veneris Consorzio Marittimo Turistico
(Port of Venus), Portovenere is still a (5 Terre, Via Don Minzoni 13, La
typical Ligurian fishing town, with Spezia 19121; 0187 732 987;
www.navigazionegolfodeipoeti.it).
tall ochre and pink tower houses
rising up from the small harbour.
A walk along the harbour front and
up the marble steps leads to the WHERE TO EAT
striped Genoese-Gothic Chiesa di
San Pietro, stunningly sited on the PARMA
tip of the rocky promontory that Enoteca Fontana inexpensive
borders the western side of the This restaurant, popular with locals,
Golfo dei Poeti. Alongside is the serves wine by the glass from an
Arpaia Grotto, or Byron’s Grotto, extensive wine list (the Lambrusco is
7 La Spezia where a plaque on the wall good). Snacks feature local specialities.
Strada Farini 24a, 43121; 0521 286
La Spezia, Liguria; 19100 commemorates the poet’s swim to 037; closed Mon & Tue
With its mild climate and stunning Lerici. Windows in the wall provide Gallo D’Oro moderate
position at the head of the Golfo perfectly framed views of the Cinque Rabbit and horsemeat feature on the
della Spezia, backed by mountains, Terre. Turning back towards the town, menu here apart from classic Parma
it’s easy to see why Byron, Shelley, steep alleyways lead up to the dishes, a variety of salads and stuffed
George Sands and DH Lawrence all chunky 16th-century Castello Doria, pastas. It is located in the historic centre.
loved the area. Nowadays, it is a with more stunning views, and then Borgo della Salina 3, 43121; 0521 208
846; closed Sun
thriving port and Italy’s chief naval back down to the main Via Capellini,
base, and it’s still a treat to take a a run of little bars, restaurants and LA SPEZIA
boat out into the bay. Standing back boutiques. If time allows, take a boat Il Ristorantino di Bayon expensive
from the palm-fringed Giardini from the port to explore one of the Stylish and intimate restaurant with
the accent on fish. Enjoy Palmária
Pubblici along the sea front is Piazza lovely islands nearby – Palmária, mussels and trofie (tightly twisted
Chiodi, site of the naval Arsenale Tino or Tinetto. pasta) with shrimps and almonds.
from the 1860s. Next to it is the Via Felice Cavallotti 23, 19121;
grand Museo Tecnico Navale (open 0187 732 209; closed lunch & Sun;
daily) with model ships, figureheads booking advised
and submarines. Wide boulevards AROUND PORTOVENERE
lead to the centre and the modern Locanda Lorena expensive
market in Piazza Cavour with its It takes a boat trip to reach this
wavy roof. Close by, the Museo excellent seafood restaurant on the
Amedeo Lia (closed Mon) has first- Isola Palmária, but it’s well worth it.
They also have rooms.
class enamels and ivories, Roman Via Cavour 4, Isola Palmária 19025;
bronzes and works by Tintoretto, 0187 792 370; closed Wed & Nov–Feb;
Cranach and Canaletto. Next door, www.locandalorena.com
the Museo del Sigillo has the world’s
largest collection of seals, including
Chinese jade and Art Nouveau
objects by René Lalique. Above Portovenere’s harbour, with its pastel-
ª Take SP530 to Portovenere. Park coloured tower-houses Left Fishing boat in
on the main road before the village. the sea beneath Castello Doria, Portovenere

DAY TRIP OPTIONS Gesù and the magnificent Cattedrale maritime history, then hop on a boat
Genoa easily deserves a day to itself di San Lorenzo before discovering to lovely Portovenere 8 and soak
for exploration and from there you the artistic treasures of the palazzos. up the wonderful views of the
can head down the coast to La Spezia Stop for a coffee at Pasticceria Cinque Terre from the Chiesa di
and a boat trip to Portovenere. Klainguti and be sure to end the San Pietro.
day with a seafood supper.
Medieval Genoa For La Spezia from Genoa, choose
Simply spend the whole day in Big port and little harbour between SP1 which gives good views
Genoa 1, investigating the maze of From Genoa 1, enjoy the coastal of the coast until Sestri Levante, or the
alleyways that make up the medieval road to La Spezia 7, stroll the port’s quicker A12/E60 motorway, which
centre, the Baroque jewel of San pleasant boulevards, take in some gives a journey time of 1½ hours.

Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€45; expensive over €45


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