DK Eyewitness: Back Roads Northern and Central Italy (Travel Guide)

DRIVE 15





Milan
Turin IT AL Y Venice
Bologna
Florence
Perugia
Rome



The Ligurian

Coast and

Apennines


Camogli to

Riomaggiore




Highlights
• Parco Nazionale delle Cinque Terre
Explore the five exquisite villages of
this UNESCO World Heritage Site in a
dramatic setting on the Ligurian coast
• Fruits of the forest and sea
Sample the freshest seafood and
enjoy produce from Apennine farms
such as pestos, chestnuts and honey
• Peaceful Parco dell’Antola
Hike among the wooded hills, dotted
with lakes and ancient villages, in
this overlooked part of Liguria
• Jewel of the Riviera
Enjoy lovely Portofino, squeezed
between turquoise waters and the
lush greenery of its promontory



The picturesque harbour of Portofino – an
iconic fishing village on the Italian Riviera




148-149_Back_Roads_Northern_Italy.indd 149 21/09/17 11:17 am

150 BACK ROADS nORTheRn AnD CenTRAL ITALy

The Ligurian Coast and Apennines

Sparkling waters lap the Ligurian coast. Beach resorts, tiny fishing harbours,
hidden coves and exquisite Portofino all vie for attention with the famous
five villages of the Cinque Terre, where colourful mosaics of houses tumble
down steep cliffs to the sea. Inland lies a landscape of ancient hamlets
and shady dry-stone terraces of vines, olives and aromatic basil. In contrast,
the Ligurian Apennines are a world apart – one of medieval castles and
agricultural villages set among lakes, meadows and chestnut forests,
where sheep graze peacefully and horses are still used to log timber.
Foppiano
Foppiano
M. Ántola
M. Ántola Rov Rovegnoegno Vicosopr
Vicosopranoano
1597m
1597m Rondanina M. Montar
Rondanina
M. Montarlonelone
Propatata
Parco dell’Antola Due P FONT
Parco dell’Antola
1500m
Senár Senáregaega Propa Loco Loco 1500m
Due Pontionti
FONTANIGORDAANIGORDA
LAGO DEL
LAGO DEL
Canale
BRUGNETOTO
PENTEM BRUGNE Canale Casoni Rezzoáglio
PENTEMAA
Casoni Rezzoáglio
Montebruno
Scabbiabella
Scabbiabella Port Portoo Trébbia Montebruno
M. Colleree
TORRIGLIA
TORRIGLIA Trébbia M. Coller
1288m
Costaf 1288m
Costafontanaontana
Cabanne
M. Fáscia
Passo d.
Priosa
Láccio Passo d. Priosa Cabanne M. Fáscia
Láccio
1192m
1192m
Portello
Passo d. Portello
Passo d. Scoffera Scoffera
Parazzuolo
674m 674m Rocca Parazzuolo Lago di
Roccatagliatatagliata
Lago di
Foppiano
M. Cáucaso
Giacopiane
M. Cáucaso Giacopiane Foppiano
1245m Favale
Favale la For
Lezzaruole
Dav Davagnaagna Boasi Boasi Lezzaruole 1245m di Málvaro la Forcellacella 876m Pianazz Strepet Tarsog
Strepetoo
Tarsognono
di Málvaro 876m
Pianazzoo
Temossi Prat
Bargagli Ferriere Neir Neironeone M. Ramaceto Temossi Pratoo S. M S. Mariaaria Taro Taro Casale Croc Crocettaetta
Bargagli Ferriere
Casale
M. Ramaceto
1345m
Lórsica
Ognio Mocónesi Lórsica 1345m Brizz Brizzolaraolara d. Ta d. Taroro di Tarsog
Ognio Mocónesi
di Tarsognono
Abbazia di Sant'Andrea
M. Zuccone
Traso Traso Lumar Gatt Gattornaorna LIGURIA Abbazia di Sant'Andrea Passo di Bocco M. Zuccone Passo di Cento Croci
Lumarzozo
Passo di Bocco
LIGURIA
1423m Passo di Cento Croci
di Borzone
1423m
di Borzone
1055m
Calcinar Lavagna Cicheroo 956m 956m 1055m
Calcinaraa
Lavagna
Cicagna Cicher
Cavizzano
Úscio Úscio Cicagna BORZ S. Sir S. Siro Foceo Foce Cavizzano Tagliet
BORZONASCAONASCA
Taglietoo
Cassego
Mezzavallevalle
Levà Levà Serra Serra Monleone Mezza M. Zatta Cassego Scur Scurtabotabo
Monleone
M. Zatta
Borgonovovo
1404m
Capr Caprenoeno Aveg Avegnono Borgono 1404m
Caranza
S. Andreaea
S. Andr Calv Calvariari Lígur Líguree Comunéglia Varese Caranza
Varese
Comunéglia
Mezzánego
di Fóggiaia
di Fógg Pian Pian Mezzánego Lígur Líguree
Réppia
Teviggioio
Piev Pievee Sor Sorii dei M dei Manzianzi Terr Terranossaanossa Réppia Tevigg
Adelano
Recco
Lígur Líguree Recco Osseg M. Gotter Adelano
M. Gotteroo
Ossegnana
RAP RAPALLOALLO Léivi Léivi 1640m
1640m
CAMOGLI Ruta Ruta Car Carascoasco M. P M. Porcileorcile Cembr Ornett
Cembranoano
Ornettoo
CAMOGLI
Nascio
Campodonicoo
Campodonic Consc Nascio 1249m S. Pietr Chiúsola
1249m
S. Pietroo
Conscentienti
Chiúsola
Zoagli
Maissana
Above Typical tower houses of the Cinque Terre, San R San Roccoocco S. M S. Margheritaargherita Zoagli Cogorno Maissana Vara Vara Cost Costolaola Antessio Foce di Rastello
Antessio
Foce di Rastello
M. Roccagranderande
Líguree
Manarola, see p158 Lígur Cogorno M. Roccag 971m 971m Tavar Tavaroneone Salino Groppo 1047m
1047m
Groppo
Salino
SAN FRUT Chiá Chiávarivari M. Zenone Vara Vara Pignona
SAN FRUTTUOSOTUOSO
M. Zenone
Pignona
1053m
Paraggii
Paragg Lav Lavagnaagna Libiola 1053m
Libiola
POR PORTOFINOTOFINO Bargone Torza Torza Santa M
Bargone
Santa Mariaaria
Cav Cavii Casarza Castiglione Cast Castelloello Sesta Sesta
Casarza Castiglione
Godano
Líg. Líg. Chia Chiavaresevarese Godano Zignago
Zignago
R R Velv Velvaa Carro Carro Pon Ponte Santate Santa
i i Bracco
Bracco
SESTRI LEVANTEVANTE
Rocchetta
ACTIVITIES v v i SESTRI LE Riva Riva Passo d. Cornic Rocchetta
Passo d. Bracco Bracco
i
di Varaa
di Var
Cornicee
e e Trigoso 610m 610m Mattar
Mattaranaana
Trigoso
r r
Hike or cycle along the sentieri – trails – in the stunning Parco a a P. Baffe MonégliaMonéglia Car Carródanoródano Brug Brugnatonato
Piazza
nazionale delle Cinque Terre P. Baffe Piazza l’Ago l’Ago

Castag Borghett
Castagnolanola
Borghettoo
Enjoy a panoramic picnic at the Santuario di Montenero 0 kilometres 6 d d i Déiv Déiva Marinaa Marina Framur Cassana di Var di Varaa
Framuraa
Cassana
i
M. Pistone
above Riomaggiore M. Pistone 722m Oltr Oltre Varae Vara
722m
0 miles 6 Padiv Padivarmaarma
Casale
Taste the speciality of Vernazza – honey-coloured L BONASSOLA Mon Montaletale Casale
BONASSOLA
L
Pignone
sciacchetrà, a sweet dessert wine e e Pignone Piàn di Bar
Piàn di Barcaca
v v LEV LEVANTOANTO C í n q u e T e r r e
Surf the waves or laze on the beach at Levanto a a
Cassella
MONTEROSSO AL MARE
n n MONTEROSSO AL MARE Cassella
Take a boat trip from Camogli for coastal views of San Key t t Fegina
Fegina
C í n q u e T e r r e
Fruttuoso, Portofino and the Cinque Terre coast e e VERNAZZA La F La Foceoce
VERNAZZA
Drive route Groppo
Groppo
Play a round of seaside golf at Rapallo CORNIGLIA
CORNIGLIA
MANAROLAOLA
MANAR Biassa
Biassa
Explore Lago di Brugneto amid beech and chestnut woods RIOM
RIOMAGGIOREAGGIORE
BRNI_150-151_ItinDrive15.indd 150 02/09/14 2:08 PM

DRIVE 15: The Ligurian Coast and Apennines 151

PLAN YOUR DRIVE

Start/finish: Camogli to Riomaggiore.
Number of days: 4–5, allowing one
day each for the coast and the interior
and 2 days for the Cinque Terre.
Distance: Approx 182 km (113 miles).
Road conditions: Roads are slow,
narrow, twisting, often very steep and
sometimes single track with infrequent
Foppiano passing places. If you choose to visit
Foppiano
M. Ántola Rov Rovegnoegno Vicosopr
M. Ántola
Vicosopranoano
1597m Rondanina M. Montar the Cinque Terre by car rather than by
1597m
Rondanina
M. Montarlonelone
Propatata
Parco dell’Antola Due P FONT to be sure of a parking place. There
Parco dell’Antola
1500m
Senár Senáregaega Propa Loco Loco 1500m public transport, arrive early in the day
Due Pontionti
FONTANIGORDAANIGORDA
LAGO DEL
LAGO DEL
Canale
BRUGNETOTO
PENTEM BRUGNE Canale Casoni Rezzoáglio are no fuel stops in the Cinque Terre.
PENTEMAA
Casoni Rezzoáglio
Montebruno
Scabbiabella Port Portoo Trébbia Montebruno When to go: Coastal resorts get very
Scabbiabella
crowded Jul–Aug and roads may be
M. Colleree
TORRIGLIA Trébbia M. Coller
TORRIGLIA
1288m
Costaf 1288m impassable. Spring and autumn are
Costafontanaontana
Cabanne
M. Fáscia
Passo d.
Láccio Passo d. Priosa Cabanne M. Fáscia Above The popular Monterosso al Mare beach, Cinque Terre, see p156 cooler and less busy. Autumn makes
Láccio
Priosa
1192m
1192m
Portello
Passo d. Portello for the best colour in the interior.
Passo d. Scoffera Scoffera
Parazzuolo
674m 674m Rocca Parazzuolo Lago di
Roccatagliatatagliata
Lago di
Foppiano
M. Cáucaso Giacopiane Foppiano Opening times: Shops close 1–4pm;
Giacopiane
M. Cáucaso
1245m Favale
Favale la For
Lezzaruole
Dav Davagnaagna Boasi Boasi Lezzaruole 1245m di Málvaro la Forcellacella 876m Pianazz Strepet Tarsog some in the main towns open on
Strepetoo
di Málvaro 876m
Tarsognono
Pianazzoo
Temossi Prat
Bargagli Ferriere Neir Neironeone M. Ramaceto Temossi Pratoo S. M S. Mariaaria Taro Taro Casale Croc Crocettaetta Sundays. Churches and museums vary,
Casale
Bargagli Ferriere
M. Ramaceto
1345m
Lórsica
Ognio Mocónesi
Ognio Mocónesi Lórsica 1345m Brizz Brizzolaraolara d. Ta d. Taroro di Tarsog but are usually open in the mornings
di Tarsognono
Abbazia di Sant'Andrea
M. Zuccone
Traso Traso Lumar Gatt Gattornaorna LIGURIA Abbazia di Sant'Andrea Passo di Bocco M. Zuccone Passo di Cento Croci until 1pm and from 4–7pm. Museums
Passo di Bocco
Lumarzozo
1423m Passo di Cento Croci
LIGURIA
di Borzone
di Borzone
1423m
1055m
Calcinaraa
Calcinar Lavagna Cicheroo 956m 956m 1055m are generally shut on Mondays.
Cicagna Cicher
Lavagna
Cavizzano
Úscio Úscio Cicagna BORZ S. Sir S. Siro Foceo Foce Cavizzano Tagliet
BORZONASCAONASCA
Taglietoo
Cassego
Mezzavallevalle
Levà Levà Serra Serra Monleone Mezza M. Zatta Cassego Scur Scurtabotabo Main market days: Bonassola: Thu;
M. Zatta
Monleone
Borgonovovo
Capr Caprenoeno Aveg Avegnono Borgono 1404m Levanto: Wed; Monterosso al Mare:
1404m
Caranza
S. Andreaea
S. Andr Calv Calvariari Lígur Líguree Comunéglia Varese Caranza Thu; Vernazza: Tue.
Varese
Comunéglia
Mezzánego
di Fógg Pian Pian Mezzánego Lígur Líguree
di Fóggiaia
Réppia
Teviggioio
Piev Pievee Sor Sorii dei M dei Manzianzi Terr Terranossaanossa Réppia Tevigg
Adelano
Recco
M. Gotteroo
Lígur Líguree Recco Osseg M. Gotter Adelano Shopping: Look for sciacchetrà (sweet
Ossegnana
1640m
RAP RAPALLOALLO Léivi Léivi 1640m wine) in the Cinque Terre, castagnaccio
CAMOGLI Ruta Ruta Car Carascoasco M. P M. Porcileorcile Cembr Ornett (chestnut cake), virgin olive oil, pesto,
Cembranoano
Ornettoo
CAMOGLI
Campodonic Consc Nascio 1249m S. Pietr Chiúsola
Campodonicoo
Nascio
1249m
S. Pietroo
Chiúsola
Conscentienti
Zoagli
Maissana
San R San Roccoocco Zoagli Maissana Vara Vara Cost Costolaola honey and Limoncino liqueur.
S. M S. Margheritaargherita Cogorno M. Roccagranderande Antessio Foce di Rastello
Antessio
Foce di Rastello
Cogorno M. Roccag
Lígur 971m 971m Tavar Tavaroneone Salino Groppo 1047m Major festivals: Camogli: Stella Maris
Líguree
1047m
Salino
Groppo
SAN FRUT Chiá Chiávarivari M. Zenone Vara Vara Pignona (sea procession), 1st Sun in Aug; Sagra
SAN FRUTTUOSOTUOSO
M. Zenone
Pignona
Paragg Lav Lavagnaagna Libiola 1053m
1053m
Paraggii
Libiola
POR PORTOFINOTOFINO Bargone Torza Torza Santa M del Pesce (fish festival), 2nd Sun in May;
Bargone
Santa Mariaaria
Cav Cavii Casarza Castiglione Cast Castelloello Sesta Sesta Levanto: Festa del Mare (in honour of
Casarza Castiglione
Godano
Líg. Líg. Chia Chiavaresevarese Godano Zignago San Giacomo), late Jul; Monterosso al
Zignago
R R Velv Velvaa Carro Carro Pon Ponte Santate Santa Mare: Sagra dei Limoni (lemon festival),
i i Bracco
SESTRI LEVANTEVANTE
Bracco
Rocchetta
v v SESTRI LE Rocchetta late May; Torneo di Noci (walnut
i i Riva Riva Passo d. Cornic di Var di Varaa
Passo d. Bracco Bracco
Cornicee
e e Trigoso 610m 610m Mattar tournament), Sep; Manarola: Presepe
Mattaranaana
Trigoso
r r
a a Car Carródanoródano Brug Brugnatonato di Manarola (Manarola Nativity), Dec;
P. Baffe Piazza Pentema: Presepe di Pentema, Dec–Jan.
P. Baffe MonégliaMonéglia
Piazza
l’Ago l’Ago
Castag Borghett
Castagnolanola
Borghettoo
d d Déiv Déiva Marinaa Marina di Var di Varaa
Framuraa
Cassana
i i Framur M. Pistone Cassana Oltr Oltre Varae Vara DAY tRIP OPtIONs
M. Pistone
722m 722m
Padiv Padivarmaarma
Mon Montaletale Casale It’s easiest to reach the Cinque Terre
Casale
BONASSOLA
L L BONASSOLA Pignone
Pignone
e e Piàn di Bar by train – once there, walk La Via
Piàn di Barcaca
v v LEV LEVANTOANTO C í n q u e T e r r e dell’Amore (The Love Trail) from
a a Riomaggiore to Manarola for views of
Cassella
MONTEROSSO AL MARE
n n MONTEROSSO AL MARE Cassella pretty villages and harbours. Enjoy
t t Fegina
Fegina
C í n q u e T e r r e
e e La F La Foceoce the cable car and coastal delights of
VERNAZZA
VERNAZZA
Groppo Sestri Levante. Get away from it all in
Groppo
CORNIGLIA the Apennines, exploring Torriglia’s
CORNIGLIA
MANAR Biassa castle and walking around Lago del
MANAROLAOLA
Biassa
RIOMAGGIOREAGGIORE
RIOM Brugneto. For full details, see p159.
BRNI_150-151_ItinDrive15.indd 151 02/09/14 2:08 PM

152 BACK ROADS nORThERn AnD CEnTRAL iTALy


Right View of the Ligurian Appenines on
the way to Torriglia Below right Rapallo
castle, built in the 16th century to ward
off pirates Below left Colourful façades
on Camogli’s beachfront promenade

WHERE TO sTay
CAMOGLI
La Camogliese moderate
Friendly, family-run 2-star hotel
with balconies overlooking the
sea, right in the centre of town.
Via Garibaldi 55, 16032; 0185 771
402; www.lacamogliese.it
Villa Rosmarino moderate–expensive
Chic villa high above Camogli, with six
very contemporary, art-filled rooms,
with terrace, pool, garden and views.
Via Figari 38, 16032; 0185 771 580; www.
villarosmarino.com; no children under 8
PORTOFINO
Eden moderate–expensive 1 Camogli
Set a little way back from the piazzetta, and the Museo Marinaro (closed Tue),
this is the most affordable hotel in town, Genoa; 16032 full of models of ships, paintings and
with a charming garden and restaurant. Steeped in seafaring tradition and naval instruments, recalls the town’s
Via Dritto 18, 16034; 0185 269 091; once rivalling Genoa in naval power, glorious maritime past.
www.hoteledenportofino.com
the town acquired its name, Casa ª For San Fruttuoso, take a boat
RAPALLO Mogli (house of wives), because the from Camogli (along the coast, or
Italia e Lido moderate menfolk spent so much of their time walk about 3 hours in each direction).
Enjoy the private beach and dining at sea. The case torri, the colourful
terrace at this historic promenade houses up to seven storeys high, 2 San Fruttuoso
hotel next to the castle. threaded with steep alleyways that Genoa; 16030
Lungomare Castello 1, 16035; 0185
50492; www.italiaelido.com are the hallmark of the fishing villages The boat from Camogli chugs round
of the Levante coast, are stacked up the Golfo del Tigullio to the ancient
TORRIGLIA from the picturesque harbour. During Benedictine Abbazia di San Fruttuoso,
Hotel della Posta inexpensive the Sagra del Pesce (fish festival) in straddling a sandy cove; originally,
Built in the early 1900s, this central May, the harbour is the scene of a boats would have moored under its
hotel is simple, but well furnished. festive fry-up when thousands of fish arches. Sights include the 11th-century
Via Matteotti 39, 16029; 010 944 050
are cooked in a giant 5-m (15-ft) pan church, topped by a tiled cupola,
and distributed free to the crowds. the cloisters, and the 16th-century
The 12th-century Dragonara Castle, watchtower. The other attraction,
Below The picturesque harbour settlement set on a rocky promontory, separates visitable by glass-bottomed boat, is
of Portofino the busy harbour from the beach, a bigger than life-size bronze statue
of Cristo degli Abissi (Christ of the
Deep), sunk out in the bay in 1954,
hands raised in blessing for those
who work on or under the sea. There
are beachside cafés, bars and
swimming, but no road access.
ª Head north out of Camogli to Via
Aurelia/SP1, then turn right. Fork right
onto the SP39, then right again on
SP227 along the coast to Portofino.
Park in the multi-storey car park.
3 Portofino
Genoa; 16034
Even those without a luxury yacht
anchored in the enchanting harbour
can appreciate how Portofino earned
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €100; moderate, €100–€200; expensive, over €200


BRNI_152-159_CatDrive15.indd 152 02/09/14 2:15 PM

DRIVE 15: The Ligurian Coast and Apennines 153


its reputation as one of Italy’s most
romantic spots. Window shopping at
Missoni or Dior and people-watching
from a waterside café may be a draw
for many, but for the most gorgeous
views, walk to Castello Brown (Nov–
Mar: closed Mon–Fri), up in the pines on
the peninsula. Montague Yeats Brown,
the British consul, gave his name to
this 16th-century castle when he lived
here in the 1890s. From here, walk on
to the Faro, the old lighthouse at the
Punta del Capo. Art lovers should visit
the Museo del Parco (winter: closed Tue),
overlooking the harbour, which
displays intriguing modern sculptures.
ª Take the SP227 north to Rapallo.
Park along the seafront or at the
car park on Via Milite Ignoto. Above The the small fishing village of
ª Take the SP1 towards Genoa and, Camogli Below The ruins of Torriglia
4 Rapallo from Recco, turn right onto SP333. castle, set among woods
Genoa; 16035 At Gattorna, take SP21 to Torriglia.
The grand hotels and villas lining Park in the main square. WHERE TO EAT
Rapallo’s Lungomare still recall the
19th-century aristocrats and literati, 5 Torriglia CAMOGLI AND AROUND
among them Max Beerbohm and Ezra Genoa; 16029 La Cucina di Nonna Nina moderate
Pound, who were attracted by the A 30-minute drive on a steep and Whether dining in the blue and white
town’s inviting climate and location. twisting road leads from the coast up rooms or outside in the garden, visitors
Along the shore, past the ruined to the chestnut forests, lakes and will enjoy the best of Liguria’s cuisine.
Via Molfino 126, Località San Rocco,
16th-century castle jutting out villages of the Ligurian Apennines. 16032 (from Camogli take SP1 towards
into the sea, the ochre Villa Tigullio Verdant in spring and summer, and La Spezia, then turn right); 0185 773
houses the Museo del Merletto, glorious in autumn, this is a much less- 835; www.nonnanina.it; closed Wed
where drawers full of lace reflect the visited area than the coast. Torriglia’s La Bossa moderate–expensive
town’s past history of lace-making. main sight is its castle, perched high Wine bottles line the walls of this small
In the centre, the Museo Gaffoglio above the town. The domain of the enoteca, which has a daily-changing
(closed Sun & Mon) holds an eclectic Fieschi from the mid-14th century, menu featuring dishes such as stuffed
collection of Meissen porcelain, 19th- then the Doria family from the 16th anchovies, rabbit or a fish ravioli.
Via della Reppublica 124, 16032; 0185
and 20th-century pastoral paintings to the 18th centuries, it is now in 772 505; www.labossa.it; closed Wed
and exquisite Fabergé pieces. For the ruins. The area is known for its porcini & lunch Sep–Jun
best view of the area, take a ride up mushrooms and canestrelli biscuits. PORTOFINO
the funivia (cable car) from Piazza ª Take the uphill road north to SP15-1
Solari to the striped and pinnacled and turn left and left again, following O Magazin moderate–expensive
An ideal spot on the water for watching
Santuario di Montallegro (1559), brown signs to Pentema. Park at the the world go by – be prepared to wait
which houses a Byzantine icon said road’s end for the top of village or for a table. Try their ragù with pasta.
to possess miraculous powers. follow signs to Pezza for the lower part. Calata Marconi 34, 16034; 0185 269 178
RAPALLO
Osteria O Bansin moderate
Long-established restaurant in the old
town with an accent on fish and good-
value fixed-price lunches.
Via Venezia 105, 16035; 0185 231 119;
www.trattoriabansin.it; summer: closed
Sun lunch; winter: closed Sun & Mon eve
TORRIGLIA
La Taverna dei Fieschi moderate
After admiring the Bakelite radios, sit
down to dishes that celebrate local
porcini mushrooms, chestnuts, wild
boar and canestrelli (biscuits).
Via Magioncalda 30, 16029; 010 944
815; closed Mon




BRNI_152-159_CatDrive15.indd 153 02/09/14 2:15 PM

154 BACK ROADS NORThERN AND CENTRAL ITALY


PaRCO DELL’aVETO
6 Pentema
This is an important protected area Genoa; 16029
of mountain peaks, beech woods Still very much the isolated mountain
and glacial lakes, famous for its large village it has always been, Pentema
number of insectivorous plants.
The park office in Borzonasca can clings to the hillside, stone houses
supply maps and information and sheds fronting steep cobbled
about walks and hikes in the area. streets and steps. At Christmas, the
Via Mallè 75a, Borzonasca 16041; 0185 village is much visited for its presepe,
343 370; www.parks.it/parco.aveto which consists of much more than
the Christmas crib. Yellow numbers
painted on the walls direct pilgrims
on a journey through more than
40 life-size tableaux, reflecting all
WHERE TO sTay
aspects of 19th-century village life
PENTEMA and crafts, culminating in the Nativity
Locanda Al Pettirosso inexpensive scene. Many of these can actually be
This rustic locanda/trattoria, set in the seen all the year round.
remote little mountain village in the ª Head back towards Torriglia until undemanding walk (see website
Parco dell’Antola, offers three pretty meeting SP15-1, then turn left towards for suggestions). A wooded path,
rooms and a cosy place to eat. Propata. Turn right just before a following old mule tracks, skirts
Località Pentema 3, 16029; 010 944
802 tunnel, following signed to Lago del the arms of the lake close to the
Brugneto and park near the dam. water, while other trails lead to
AROUND FONTANIGORDA waterfalls and an old mill.
Due Ponti inexpensive 7 Lago del Brugneto ª From the lake, follow signs for
The peaceful location – surrounded by Genoa; 16025 Montebruno, turning left at SS45.
pines, with the River Trebbia lapping
at the bottom of the garden – makes Lush terraced meadows, groves of Carry on along SS45, signed Piacenza,
this a welcoming hotel. It has a good hazelnut, beech and chestnut and turn right onto SP17 after Loco, then
restaurant and bikes are available. Via horse-logged wood are hallmarks turn left onto SP18 to Fontanigorda.
Nazionale 2, Loc. Due Ponti, (3 km/2 of the Parco dell’Antola (www. There is plenty of parking available.
miles before Loco on SP45) 16023; 010 parcoantola.it), which encompasses
958 12; www.hoteldueponti.it
the arms of Lago di Brugneto. An Below The Baia di Silenzio and the harbour at
BORZONASCA artificial lake constructed in 1959 Sestri Levante Bottom left The peaceful,
Agriturismo Casa del Bosco to provide water for Genoa and wooded countryside around Lago del Brugneto
inexpensive Piacenza, the lake makes a good Bottom right One of Fontanigorda’s 13
This 19th-century villa has undergone stopping point for a peaceful and pineapple-topped fountains
a quality refurbishment and overlooks
vine and fruit terraces, and a stream
with waterfalls. It is eclectically furnished
and can serve lunch and dinner, too.
Loc. Prato di Caregli 44, 16041; 340 728
4206; www.agriturismocasadelbosco.it
SESTRI LEVANTE
Villa Agnese moderate
On the outskirts of town, this modern
and eco-conscious hotel has light, airy
rooms and a relaxing garden. Expect
organic produce for breakfast.
Via alla Fattoria Pallavicini 1A, 16039
(close to Sestri Levante exit of A12); 0185
457 583; www.hotelvillaagnese.com
Grand Hotel dei Castelli expensive
For a luxurious stay, head up to this
1920s cliff-top castle-hotel. The spacious
rooms are filled with antiques and
pictures, and outside there are gardens,
a sea-water pool and roof-top terrace.
Via Penisola di Levante 26, 16039; 0185
487 020; www.hoteldeicastelli.it
Other options
The Hotel Helvetia (Via Cappuccini 43,
16039; 0185 41175; www.hotelhelvetia.
it) is close to the beach and has a shuttle
parking service to the edge of town.



BRNI_152-159_CatDrive15.indd 154 02/09/14 2:15 PM

DRIVE 15: The Ligurian Coast and Apennines 155


Far left The Lago del Brugneto, an artificial
lake that supplies Genoa with water Centre
left The river that feeds Lago del Brugneto
Left Hans Christian Andersen’s favourite
beach at Sestri Levante













8 Fontanigorda ª Take SP586 for Carasco and follow
Genoa; 16023 signs for Chiavari on SP225, then turn
It is easy to while away half an hour or left on SP1 for Sestri Levante.
so here, walking the cobbled streets
in search of all 13 of the pineapple- 0 Sestri Levante
topped fountains for which this small, Genoa; 16039
red-roofed mountain village is famous. Hans Christian Andersen enjoyed his
The fountains are dedicated – aptly visit here in 1833 so much that the Where to eat
enough for a place with an abundance town named the sandy beach Baia SESTRI LEVANTE
of water – to the Mater Dolorosa (Our delle Favole (Bay of Fairy Tales). On El Pescador expensive
Lady of Sorrows). The Baroque church the other side of the peninsula along This well-known restaurant, with
of Santi Antonio e Jacopo has a which this popular and cheerful a view over the Baia delle Favole,
decorative red-and-gold interior and resort clusters, lies the more intimate prides itself on serving the freshest
impressive barley-sugar columns. Baia di Silenzio, with its fleet of fishing fish of all types, shapes and sizes.
ª Follow the sign for Casoni on SP17, boats and coloured houses. Close by, Via Pilade Queirolo 1, 16039; 0185 428
888; www.ristoranteelpescador.com;
then SP48, drive over the Passo di the Galleria Rizzi re-creates a palazzo closed Tue
Fregarolo and turn right at SP586 for interior of the 19th century, including
Borzonasca, where the Abbazia di engaging works of art such as still-lifes Cantina del Polpo moderate
There’s plenty of fish on the menu, but
Sant/Andrea di Borzone (3 km/2 miles by the Baroque painter Felice Boselli. there are other options, too, such as
east of the village) is signposted along Lively Via XXV Aprile/Corso Colombo trofie (or trofiette) al pesto (twisty pasta),
SP49. For Borzonasca, park in Piazza is packed with interesting shops and torte di verdura (vegetable pie), plus
Garibaldi by the church. eateries, and the Hotel dei Castelli on excellent local wines and grappas.
the hill offers refreshments and Piazza Cavour 2, 16039; 0185 485 296;
www.cantinadelpolpo.it
9 Borzonasca panoramic views of both bays.
Genoa; 16041 ª Take SP1 towards La Spezia until
After a spectacular journey over the Passo del Braco, then turn right on
1,203-m (3,950-ft) Passo di Fregarolo, SP332, then SP64 for Bonassola. Below Borzonasca, the closest village to the
Borzonasca’s main attraction is the Park along the seafront. Benedectine Abbazia di Sant’Andrea di Borzone
Abbazia di Sant’Andrea di Borzone
(open daily), a short drive east of the
town. Standing in peaceful isolation
and guarded by a 600-year-old cypress
tree, the Benedictine complex was
founded in the 12th century on an
earlier 9th-century Lombard building,
and is characterized by its rows of
blind brick and stone arcading. The
bell tower was probably originally
an ancient watchtower. In the town
itself, shops sell local honey, San Stè
cheese, and, in season, hazelnuts;
and the Aveto Park office provides
information about hikes in the area.
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€45; expensive over €45


BRNI_152-159_CatDrive15.indd 155 02/09/14 2:15 PM

156 BACK ROADS nORTHeRn AnD CenTRAL ITALy


Right The curving bay of Levanto, flanked by
two wooded headlands

Where to Stay
LEVANTO
A Durmi inexpensive
Beautifully appointed bright and airy
rooms around a quiet courtyard garden
that has plenty of relaxing shady spots.
Mini apartments are also available.
Via Viviani 12, 19015; 0187 800 823;
www.adurmi.it
Stella Maris moderate–expensive
Colourful frescoes and antiques fill the
rooms of this lovely 19th-century
palazzo. Ample breakfasts are served
under a pergola in the garden.
Via Marconi 4, 19015; 0187 808 258;
www.hotelstellamarislevanto.com
MONTEROSSO AL MARE
Porto Roca expensive q Bonassola Cinque Terre. However, the historic
Soak up the sea views from the beautiful La Spezia; 19011 centre provides plenty to see as well.
verandas, terrace and garden of this A little quieter than Sestri Levante, the The medieval walls, the Castello di
luxurious hotel, set on the headland town of Bonassola shelters behind its San Giorgio (not open to public), Torre
and with private beach below.
Via Corone 1, 19016; 0187 817 065; sea wall, on top of which a boardwalk dell’Orologio and the pretty Loggia
www.portoroca.it; closed Nov–Mar stretches the length of the dark, sandy del Commune all date back to the
beach. In the town centre, the Chiesa 13th century. But perhaps best of all
Other options
La Spiaggia (Via Lungomare 98, 19016; di Santa Caterina has a sumptuous is the lovely Chiesa di Sant’Andrea, a
0187 817 567; www.laspiaggiahotel. Baroque interior with two stunning beautiful example of Ligurian Gothic
com) offers beachfront rooms. processional crosses of intricate with its striped, green serpentine
silverwork. Paintings of ships hang and white Carrara marble façade
CORNIGLIA
on the walls – ex votos from thankful and delicate lacy rose window.
Cristiana Ricci inexpensive
There are not many accommodation sailors. On a cliff west of the town, ª Take SP43 past the train station,
choices in Corniglia, but Cristiana the Cappella della Madonnina della then SP370, which finishes with a
has four small, quiet rooms. Punta beckons for a sunset walk. steep descent to Monterosso. Park
Via Fieschi 123, 19018; 0338 937 6547; ª Follow signs for Levanto. There is at the seafront, or on Via Roma.
www.bebcorniglia.com a large car park next to the tourist
office on the seafront. Walking in the Cinque terre
As well as the famous Sentiero
w Levanto Azzuro (Blue Trail), which connects
La Spezia; 19015 all five villages, there are numerous
With the best beach in the area – long well-marked trails linking the shrines
and sandy – and good opportunities and hilltop hamlets of the Parco
Nazionale delle Cinque Terre.
for kayaking and surfing, Levanto is a Some of these trails can be covered
Below The village of Corniglia, set on 100-m destination for lovers of the outdoors. by bike or on horseback. Pick up
(330-ft) high cliffs It’s also a good entry point for the maps, bus and train timetables and
information on the Cinque Terre card
(required to access the trails) from
information points or tourist offices at
the train stations. The park’s website,
www.parconazionale5terre.it, is also
a useful source of information.
e Monterosso al Mare
La Spezia; 19016
Monterosso is the first of the five
Cinque Terre villages encountered
when approaching from the west,
and the only one to be built on the
flat. A tunnel hewn out of rock




BRNI_152-159_CatDrive15.indd 156 02/09/14 2:15 PM

DRIVE 15: The Ligurian Coast and Apennines 157


connects the long sandy beach of Left The popular sandy beach at Monterosso
the new town, Fegina, to the older al Mare
part, where a huge modern statue
of Neptune (14 m/45 ft), nicknamed
“Il Gigante”, stands in front of the
harbour. Here, too, in Piazza Garibaldi,
is the 13th-century serpentine and EAT AND DRINK
white marble striped Chiesa di San
Giovanni, complete with rose window. LEVANTO
Climb the hill to the Convento dei Taverna Garibaldi inexpensive
Cappuccini (1622) and its Chiesa di Popular with locals and located on a
San Francesco for excellent artworks – bustling street, this place specializes
Crucifixion by Van Dyck, La Veronica in pizzas of all varieties, including
prawns and bresaola (air-dried beef).
by Strozzi and two good pieces by Via Garibaldi 57, 19015; 0187 808 098;
Luca Cambioso. evenings only; Sep–Jun: closed Tue
ª Take SP370, then a series of right Da Rino moderate
turns on to Vernazza. There is a car Sit outside and watch the local street
park outside the village. life as you sample minestrone soup or
t Corniglia simple seafood linguine presented on
La Spezia; 19018 crisp white tablecloths.
Compact Corniglia, the only Cinque Via Garibaldi 10, 19015; 0187 813 475;
www.ristorantedarino-levanto.com;
Terre village not directly on the sea, eves only, winter: closed Tue
sits high on a cliff amid terraced
vineyards and olive groves. Less busy VERNAZZA
than its counterparts, it makes for a Ristorante Pizzeria Vulnetia
peaceful stroll through the boxy inexpensive
Popular place serving good fish
houses and eclectic mix of attractive dishes – try the marinated anchovies or
gift, clothes and food shops lining the linguine – as well as pizzas and pastas.
main Via Fieschi. Looking seaward Piazza Marconi 29, 19018; 0187 821
from the dark and narrow alleyways, 193; closed Mon
the Santa Maria Belvedere offers the Belforte expensive
chance to admire the dramatic, This place serves creative cuisine, best
jagged edge of the coastline. To get eaten on the cliffside terrazzo con vista
to the beach or the train station, (terrace with view) at sunset.
Via Guidoni 22, 19020; 0187 812 222;
Above Narrow alleyway in Corniglia, typical of all descend the famous Lardarina, the www.ristorantebelforte.it; closed Tue
the Cinque Terre towns broad zig-zag path of nearly 400
steps, from where a coastal trail CORNIGLIA
r Vernazza connects with Manarola. Enoteca Il Pirun inexpensive
La Spezia; 19018 ª Head back on SP30, then turn right After sampling a glass or two of the
local wine in this cosy wine bar, head
Regarded by many as one of Italy’s onto SP61 and right again onto SP51. upstairs for a bite to eat.
most perfect villages, Vernazza’s At roundabout after Groppo, take SP59 Via Fieschi 115, 19018; 0187 812 315
pastel- and earth-coloured houses, to Manarola. Park outside the village. Other options
strewn with washing, crowd the little Stock up at A Butiega (Via Fieschi 142,
piazzetta that fronts the natural Below The harbour and the Chiesa Santa 19018) for picnic supplies: sandwiches
harbour. Take time here to watch the Margherita d’Antiochia at Vernazza and seafood antipasti are on offer.
locals fishing close to the stacks of
striated rocks and the bobbing fishing
boats. The harbourside Chiesa Santa
Margherita d’Antiochia (1318),
distinguished by its octagonal bell
tower, is unusual in having its door
on the eastern (altar) side. Perched
on top of the rocky promontory, the
watchtower of the Castello Doria
was built in the 15th century, as
were many others along this coast,
to ward off marauding pirates.
ª Head out of town on SP63 and
follow SP61 and SP30 to Corniglia.
Park before you get to the village.




BRNI_152-159_CatDrive15.indd 157 02/09/14 2:15 PM

158 BACK ROADS NORTHeRN AND CeNTRAl iTAly


y Manarola square bell tower, previously an
La Spezia; 19010 ancient lookout, there’s a pleasant
Manarola’s pink- and ochre-washed walk up through the vineyards and
houses and narrow streets cascade down to the classic viewing point
down to its tiny harbour, where an at Punto Bonfiglio. At Christmas
old-fashioned crane winches the time, the hills above the village are
boats in and out of the water. The decorated with prettily illuminated
little Sciacchetrà Museum (open daily) Nativity scenes – presepe – all made
gives a good insight into the making from recycled materials.
Above Manarola, a classic Cinque Terre village of the eponymous local amber- ª Return up SP59, then take SP370 at
of pastel-coloured houses set by the sea coloured wine. From the Gothic the roundabout. Next, turn right onto
Chiesa di San Lorenzo (1338), with its SP32 to Riomaggiore. Park at the top
ornate rose window and separate of the village, paying at the booth.
Where to Stay
MANAROLA u Riomaggiore
La Torretta moderate
This chic and peaceful hotel has an La Spezia; 19017
elegant and eclectic style. The hot tub Named after the Rio Major (Main River) that now flows underground
with a view, airy rooms and subtle between houses clinging to the steep-sided ravine, Riomaggiore is
lighting make for a pampering stay.
Vico Volto 20, 19017; 0187 920 327; a good place to start walking the Cinque Terre trail. There are great
www.torrettas.com views on the climb to the 14th-century Santuario di Montenero.
Ca’ d’Andrean moderate
This hotel, in a typical Cinque Terre A two-hour walking tour
tower-house in the upper village, Maragliano. Head down the broad
is family-run, has spacious modern This walk offers a quick tour of the steps to the bustling Via Colombo 2,
rooms and a courtyard garden with village before the hard climb begins. where the river roars underfoot, and
fragrant lemon trees. From the car park at the top of the continue past the coloured houses,
Via Discovolo 101, 19017; 0187 920
040; www.cadandrean.it village, head down the steep Via little shops and boats parked on the
Santuario and turn first right along Via road near the harbour. On the right,
RIOMAGGIORE Pecunia to the Chiesa di San Giovanni there’s a blue-lit tunnel towards the
Locanda del Sole moderate Battisti 1. Founded in 1340, its lovely train station; walk through it to find
This central establishment offers 10 rose window and Gothic doorways are one of the many murals 3 by Silvio
modern rooms on different levels, all a result of 19th-century remodeling Benedetto that decorate the village.
with a terrace. Breakfasts are generous
and easy parking is a bonus. and, inside, the graceful two-toned This one depicts the building of the
Via Santuario 14, 19017; 0187 920 773; grey arches frame a life-size wooden muretti a secco (dry-stone walls) that
www.locandadelsole.net crucifix by Baroque sculptor Anton form the Cinque Terre terraces.








Benedetto V I A S I G R O N I V I A T R A C A S T E LL O S T R A D A P R O V I N C I A L O D E L L E C I N Q U E T E R R E
Murals Chiesa di San
Giovanni Battisti V I A A L D I DE D E G A SP E R I
V I A D E L L S A M O R E
V I A P E C U N I A Via Colombo
VIA TELE MACO SIGNORINI VIA COLOMBO VIA SANTU A R IO
Tunnel VIA DI LOC A
VIA S GLACOMO
Harbour V IA AN T O N IO G R AM S C I

S PROVINCIALO D CINQUE TER R E
0 metres 200
0 yards 200 Santuario
di Montenero


Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €100; moderate, €100–€200; expensive, over €200


BRNI_152-159_CatDrive15.indd 158 02/09/14 2:15 PM

DRIVE 15: The Ligurian Coast and Apennines 159


Left Pretty Riomaggiore, built over the Rio
Major Below left Dramatic rock formation,
at Riomaggiore Below right Small shrine to
the Madonna, by a doorway in Manarola
Eat anD DrinK
MANAROLA
Marina Piccola moderate
Sit outdoors and watch the walkers
and swimmers as evening falls, while
eating local treats – mainly seafood.
Via Lo Scalo 16, 19010; 0187 920 923;
www.hotelmarinapiccola.com/
ristorante; closed Tue
RIOMAGGIORE
Ripa del Sole moderate
Dine al fresco with elegance here, at
the top of the village, and tuck into
the superb variety of seafood,
vegetarian and organic dishes.
Via de Gasperi 282, 19017; 0187 920
143; www.ripadelsole.it; closed Mon
Other options
La Lanterna, in an old anchovy-salting
warehouse (Via San Giacomo 46,
At the end of Via Colombo, a marked by red and white stripes. 19017; 0187 920 589; www.lalanterna.
org; closed Tue), makes the most of the
subterranean passage emerges at Cross the road, then turn right, taking fish catches of the day.
the harbour 4. Stop here to take in the concrete steps on the left-hand
the views; admire the boys jumping side up through vineyards and scrub
off the rocks and look back at the to the gleaming white Santuario di Below Fishing boats in the clean waters of
houses tumbling higgledy-piggledy Montenero 5, set among the pines. Riomaggiore’s harbour
down the cliff. Then, follow the path At 341 m (1,120 ft), there are great
to the left to see the little beach views along the coast in both
before returning through the tunnel directions. Walk past the restaurant
to Via Colombo. Now the climb to spot the little cog railway – trenino
begins. Take the steps up Via Gramsci, del vino – used to take workers and
and go round a children’s playground grapes up and down the terraces
to Via di Loca, past some handy seats. at harvest time.
More steps, signed Santuario di Energetic hikers can carry on to the
Montenero, lead past terraces filled Colle del Telegrafo (making a 9-km/6-
with rows of pepper and basil plants. mile round trip in total). To get back
Go around the cemetery to the to the car, descend to the road, then
main Manarola to Riomaggiore road, follow it down to Riomaggiore. There
where the views begin to open up – is a bus service, but stop by the visitor
it’s also the start of Sentiero 3a, information office for a timetable first.

Day trip options From Levanto, the easiest option is to relax and take one of the boats that ply
The coastal towns of Levanto, Sestri take the train, which stops at all five the coast from town to town.
Levante and Camogli all make good Cinque Terre villages.
bases for day trips. Explore the Ligurian Apennines
Golfo del Tigullio From Camogli 1, drive through the
Cinque Terre experience
Starting from Levanto w, get a Enjoy the Golfo del Tigullio from chestnut and beech woods to the
flavour of the upper and lower Sestri Levante 0, exploring Rapallo castle at Torriglia 5, then head to
Cinque Terre by exploring the pretty 4, where you can spend time on the timeless village of Pentema 6.
village and harbour of Manarola y, the beach and take a cable-car ride. For exercise, the nearby Lago del
then walk the easy Via dell’Amore Then continue round to the little gem Brugneto 7 is good for a walk.
trail to Riomaggiore u. From here, of Portofino 3, before returning. From Camogli, take SP333 to Gattorna,
hike up through the terraces of vines From Sestri Levante take SP1 to Rapallo, then SP21 to Torriglia. The SP15-1 runs
to the Santuario di Montenero. then SP227 to Portofino, and back. Or, from Pentema to Lago del Brugneto.

Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€45; expensive over €45


BRNI_152-159_CatDrive15.indd 159 02/09/14 2:15 PM

BRNI_160-161_OpnDrv16.indd 160 27/10/11 6:03 PM
Back Roads LAYERS PRINTED:
Section opener template “UK” LAYER
(OpenType)
Date 02 November 2009
Size 145mm x 217mm
Font Myriad Pro

DRIVE 16





Milan
Turin Venice
IT AL Y
Genoa Bologna

Perugia
Rome



Sanctuaries

and Forests


Fiesole to

Anghiari



Highlights

• Great Benedictine abbey
Wander around the Abbazia
di Vallombrosa along heavily
forested trails of beech and firs
• Historic castles
Conquer the ruined Castello di
Romena and climb the tower of the
splendid Castello di Conto Guidi
• Pristine forests
Visit the best preserved forests in all
Italy, the Parco Nazionale delle Foreste
Casentinesi, home to wild animals
such as wolves, boars and mouflon
• Holy sanctuary
Visited by St Francis and one of
the holiest places of the Franciscan
monks, the medieval Santuario della
Verna is set in an untouched forest




Casentino Valley view with Poppi’s Castello
dei Conto Guidi in the distance




BRNI_160-161_OpnDrv16.indd 161 27/10/11 6:03 PM

162 BACK ROADS nORTHeRn AnD CenTRAL ITALy

Sanctuaries and Forests

A thousand years ago, followers of the early Christian faith retreated
from the everyday world of men and established monastic communities
deep in Italy’s forests. Their aim was to live a life of poverty, commune
with nature and listen to the word of God resounding in the silence.
While protecting the forests, the monasteries grew: some retained a
sublime simplicity, others were decorated with great works of art.
Forests such as Casentino and Vallombrosa are now national parks
and part of Italy’s natural heritage. This drive takes in sophisticated
Fiesole, the Hermitage of Camáldoli, the castle town of Poppi and
the La Verna Sanctuary, and visits Michelangelo’s birthplace and the
beautiful town of Anghiari overlooking the Upper Tiber Valley.
Above Benedictine monks at the Santuario
della Verna, see p168

il Poggione
il Poggione Lago di
Lago di
1424m
1424m Ridr Ridrácoliácoli
Monte Tufone
Monte Tufone
Póggio
Póggio
1305m
Montebonello
Montebonello 1305m Fonte Murata
Fonte Murata
Petrognano
il Pratone
il Pratone Petrognano Póggio Nato Costato 1063m
Póggio Nato Costato
1063m
Dóccia
Gaviserri
1062m
Caldine
Rú na
Trespiano
Trespiano Caldine 702m 702m Dóccia Tigliano Rú na 1062m Papiano Gaviserri CAMÁLDOLI
Tigliano
CAMÁLDOLI
Papiano
Pomino
Monte Cucco
Careggi
Careggi Molino Pomino T. M óscia Monte Cucco Arno Arno
Molino
T. Stággia
1137m
1137m
Passo Fangacci
FIESOLE del Piano T. Sieve T. Sieve Falgano Gualdo T. Stággia Passo Fangacci Passo dei
FIESOLE
del Piano
Passo dei
T. M óscia Gualdo
1234m
Falgano
1234m
La Lastra
La Lastra Ontignano Castelnuovo STIA STIA Mandrioli
Ontignano
Mandrioli
Castelnuovo
Borselli
1173m
Monastery of
Sieci Sieci Borselli Pratovécchio Badía Monastery of Badía 1173m
Pratovécchio Badía
Moggiona Camáldoli
Pratáglia
Diacceto Moggiona Camáldoli Pratáglia
Diacceto
Consuma
Firenzee
Firenz Compiobbi Pon Pontassievetassieve Consuma
Compiobbi
Pélago
Passo della
Anchetta Pélago Passo della CASTELLO DI Pieve di Sanan Pratale Serravalleavalle
Anchetta
Pratale Serr
Consuma
CASTELLO DI Pieve di S
Consuma
Pian del Ponteonte
Vallina
Vallina 1060m Pietro di Romenao di Romena Pian del P Badía A l p e d i S e r r a
Caiano ROMENA
1060m
T. Archiano
Rosano
Lucente
Póggio
San Miniato
Rovezzano Rosano Lucente San Miniato Caiano ROMENA Pietr Póggio
Rovezzano
in Alpe
Lierna
Tre Vescovi
Candeli
Candeli Villamagna in Alpe Lierna Pártina Archiano Póggio Baralla Tre Vescovi
Villamagna
Póggio Baralla
1232m
Paterno
Bagno a Rípoli
Arcetri Bagno a Rípoli Paterno Tosi Tosi Ristonchi Sala Sala Ávena Pártina 1205m Bifor Biforcoco 1232m
1205m
Arcetri
Ristonchi
A l p e d i S e r r a
Ávena
Torri Torri Arno Arno Carbonile Montemignáio T.
Montemignáio
Carbonile
Farneta
San Piero Osteria Castél Farneta Soci Soci Mar Marcianociano Valsa Valsavignonevignone
San Piero Osteria
Castél
ABBAZIA DI
T. Corsalone
Nuova
San Nicciló
a Ema
a Ema Nuova ABBAZIA DI Barbiano San Nicciló Poppi Zoo Giona
Giona
Barbiano
Poppi Zoo
VALLOMBROSAOMBROSA
Torre a Cona
Torre a Cona Donnini Saltino VALL POPPI Banzena T. Corsalone Giamperata Monte
Monte
Giamperata
Donnini
Saltino
Banzena
POPPI
Castelsavino
Castelsavino
Lóscove
1242m
LA VERNA
Rignano TOSCANA Pratalútoli Lóscove Memmenano LA VERNA 1242m
Rignano
TOSCANA Pratalútoli
Memmenano
sull’Arno San Clemente
sull’Arno San Clemente San San La Béccia
La Béccia
Larniano
Donato
Donato Varco di Reggello P P Cética Larniano Querceto
Querceto
Varco di Reggello
Cética
1357m
1357m r r
Chiusi
Pietrapiana
Pietrapiana a a Chiusi Montalone
Montalone
Campi Dama
Bibbiena
t t Bibbiena C C Campi Dama della Verna
della Verna
Ortignano
Póggio
Póggio o o Ortignano a a
Sarna Fognano
Raggiolo San Piero
Uomo di Sasso m m Raggiolo San Piero Pollino s Sarna Fognano
Uomo di Sasso
Pollinos
1538m
in Frássino
1538m in Frássino e e Piev Pievee
a a Sant Santo Stéfanoo Stéfano
Fontanelle
Montécchio n n
Montécchio
g g Fontanelle Póggio
Póggio
Badía Tega
Piánora
ACTIVITIES n n Badía Tega Castél t i t Chitignano dell’Abele Piánora San San
Castél
dell’Abele
i
1136m
Ficognano Rássina
o o Ficognano Rássina n n Chitignano 1136m Cassiano
Cassiano
Calleta
Below The ancient town of Anghiari, rising above the surrounding Calleta o o Fragaiolo
Fragaiolo
Take a hike in the Casentino Forest among vines and fruit trees, see p169 Santa Santa Lama Lama CAPRESE F. Tévere

CAPRESE
Carda
Castelnuovo
pine woods, beech and maple trees Carda Castelnuovo Mama A l p e d MICHELANGELO
F. Tévere
MICHELANGELO
Mama
Tulliano
Faltona Tulliano Valenzano Monte il Castello Sigliano
Faltona
Sigliano
Monte il Castello
Ride a bike along the River Arno as it Salutío A l p e d i C a t e n á i a San Cristóforo
San Cristóforo
1415m
1415m
Salutío
approaches the town of Stia T. Salutío Zenna Calbenzano Manzi
T. Salutío
Zenna Calbenzano
Manzi
Madonnuccia
Enjoy a picnic in the unspoiled Forest of Baciano Madonnuccia
Baciano
Valenzano i C a t e n á i a
Lago di
Lago di
Falciano
Montedóglio
Vallombrosa (Valley of Shadow) Falciano Montedóglio
Albiano
Casa la Marga
Casa la Marga Albiano
Learn Italian at Poppi’s cultural institute –
Cármine
or take a class in stone masonry Valico di Cármine
Valico di
Schéggia
Schéggia Micciano
Micciano
Feed the bears with chestnuts gathered in 575m 575m
the forest at Poppi children’s zoo Chiaveretto Tavernelle
Chiaveretto
Tavernelle
ANGHIARI
ANGHIARI
Listen to heavenly organ recitals and
Gregorian chants at the La Verna Sanctuary
BRNI_162-163_ItinDrive16.indd 162 02/09/14 2:08 PM

DRIVE 16: Sanctuaries and Forests 163

PLAN YOUR DRIVE

Start/finish: Fiesole to Anghiari.
Number of days: 2–3 days.
Distance: Approx 140 km (87 miles).
Road conditions: Generally excellent.
When to go: Summer is best, with
plenty of festivals and concerts. In spring,
the weather can be changeable but
often good. Autumn sees the forests
change colour, but winter is not
recommended. Many mountain passes
close as do many restaurants and
Above Benedictine monks at the Santuario hotels, and travel can be difficult.
della Verna, see p168 Above Driving through the deep Casentino Forest at Vallombrosa, see pp164–5
Opening times: Most museums open
10am–6pm (small museums only on
il Poggione
il Poggione Lago di 0 kilometres 5
Lago di
1424m
1424m Ridr Ridrácoliácoli weekends outside the summer).
Monte Tufone
Monte Tufone 0 miles 5 Monasteries and sanctuaries observe
Póggio
Póggio
1305m
Montebonello
Montebonello 1305m Fonte Murata the religious calendar and churches
Fonte Murata
il Pratone
Petrognano
il Pratone Petrognano Póggio Nato Costato 1063m
Póggio Nato Costato
1063m
1062m
Dóccia
Gaviserri
Caldine
Rú na
Trespiano Caldine 702m 702m Dóccia Tigliano Rú na 1062m Papiano Gaviserri CAMÁLDOLI usually open 9am–noon and 3–7pm.
Trespiano
Tigliano
CAMÁLDOLI
Papiano
Monte Cucco
Pomino
Careggi
Careggi Molino Pomino T. M óscia Monte Cucco Arno Arno Sundays and major religious feast
Molino
T. Stággia
1137m
1137m
Passo Fangacci
FIESOLE
FIESOLE del Piano T. Sieve T. Sieve Falgano Gualdo T. Stággia Passo Fangacci Passo dei days are likely to be busy.
del Piano
T. M óscia Gualdo
Passo dei
Falgano
1234m
1234m
La Lastra
La Lastra Ontignano Castelnuovo STIA STIA Mandrioli
Mandrioli
Ontignano
Castelnuovo
1173m
Borselli
Monastery of
Sieci Sieci Borselli Pratovécchio Badía Monastery of Badía 1173m Main market days: Fiesole: Sat; Stia:
Pratovécchio Badía
Moggiona Camáldoli
Pratáglia
Diacceto
Diacceto Moggiona Camáldoli Pratáglia Tue; Pratovecchio: Fri; Poppi: Sat;
Firenz Compiobbi Pon Pontassievetassieve Consuma
Firenzee
Consuma
Compiobbi
Pélago
Passo della
Anchetta
Anchetta Pélago Passo della CASTELLO DI Pieve di Sanan Pratale Serravalleavalle farmers’ market, Tue; Anghiari: Wed.
Pratale Serr
CASTELLO DI Pieve di S
Consuma
Consuma
Vallina
Vallina 1060m Pietro di Romenao di Romena Pian del P Badía A l p e d i S e r r a
Pian del Ponteonte
Caiano ROMENA
1060m
T. Archiano
Lucente
Rosano
Póggio
San Miniato
Rovezzano Rosano Lucente San Miniato Caiano ROMENA Pietr Póggio Major festivals: Fiesole: Estate
Rovezzano
in Alpe
Lierna
Tre Vescovi
Candeli
Candeli Villamagna in Alpe Lierna Pártina Archiano Póggio Baralla Tre Vescovi
Póggio Baralla
Villamagna
1232m
Paterno
Arcetri
Arcetri Bagno a Rípoli Paterno Tosi Tosi Ristonchi Sala Sala Ávena Pártina 1205m Bifor Biforcoco 1232m Fiesolana (music and arts), Jul & Aug;
1205m
Bagno a Rípoli
Ristonchi
A l p e d i S e r r a
Ávena
Torri Torri Arno Arno Carbonile Montemignáio T. Vallombrosa: church music, Jul & Aug;
Carbonile
Montemignáio
Farneta
San Piero Osteria
San Piero Osteria Castél Farneta Soci Soci Mar Marcianociano Valsa Valsavignonevignone
Castél
ABBAZIA DI
T. Corsalone
Nuova
a Ema
a Ema Nuova ABBAZIA DI Barbiano San Nicciló Poppi Zoo Giona Poppi: Il Gusto dei Guidi (food and wine),
San Nicciló
Barbiano
Giona
Poppi Zoo
VALLOMBROSAOMBROSA
Torre a Cona
Torre a Cona Donnini Saltino VALL POPPI Banzena T. Corsalone Giamperata Monte Aug; La Verna: Festival of Organ Music,
Monte
Giamperata
Donnini
Saltino
Banzena
POPPI
Castelsavino
Castelsavino
Lóscove
1242m
Rignano
LA VERNA
Rignano TOSCANA Pratalútoli Lóscove Memmenano LA VERNA 1242m Jul & Aug; Caprese Michelangelo: Festa
TOSCANA Pratalútoli
Memmenano
sull’Arno San Clemente
sull’Arno San Clemente San San La Béccia
La Béccia
Donato Varco di Reggello P P Cética Larniano Querceto della Castagna (chestnut festival), Oct.
Larniano
Donato
Querceto
Varco di Reggello
Cética
1357m r r Anghiari: Festa dei Bringoli e di San
1357m
Pietrapiana
Pietrapiana a a Chiusi Montalone
Chiusi
Montalone
Campi Dama
Bibbiena
t t Bibbiena C C Campi Dama della Verna Martino (pasta festival), Nov.
della Verna
Ortignano
Póggio o o Ortignano a a
Póggio
Raggiolo San Piero
Sarna Fognano
Uomo di Sasso m m Raggiolo San Piero Pollino s Sarna Fognano
Uomo di Sasso
Pollinos
1538m in Frássino e e Piev Pievee Shopping: The monks at Vallombrosa
in Frássino
1538m
a a Sant Santo Stéfanoo Stéfano
Montécchio
Fontanelle
Montécchio n n
g g Fontanelle and La Verna sell products such as liq­
Póggio
Badía Tega t t Póggio Piánora
Badía Tega
Piánora
Castél
dell’Abele
n n Castél i i dell’Abele San San uors, jams and CDs of monastic music. In
Chitignano 1136m
Ficognano Rássina
Cassiano
o o Ficognano Rássina n n Chitignano 1136m Cassiano
Calleta
Calleta o o Fragaiolo Anghiari, buy oils, soap and creams from
Fragaiolo
Lama Lama F. Tévere the medieval olive oil mill of Ravagni;
CAPRESE
Carda
Carda Castelnuovo Santa Santa A l p e d CAPRESE nearby Bussatti make textiles on looms
Castelnuovo
MICHELANGELO
MICHELANGELO
Mama
F. Tévere
Mama
Tulliano
Faltona
Faltona Tulliano Valenzano Monte il Castello Sigliano left by Napoleon’s retreating troops.
Sigliano
Monte il Castello
San Cristóforo
1415m
1415m
Salutío A l p e d i C a t e n á i a San Cristóforo
Salutío
T. Salutío Zenna Calbenzano Manzi DAY tRIP OPtIONs
T. Salutío
Zenna Calbenzano
Manzi
Madonnuccia
Baciano Madonnuccia
Baciano
Valenzano i C a t e n á i a
Lago di
Lago di
Falciano Montedóglio There’s lots for families to do here, from
Falciano
Montedóglio
Albiano
Casa la Marga
Casa la Marga Albiano conquering castles with towers and
Cármine
Cármine dungeons to feeding the animals at
Valico di Poppi’s zoo. Or explore the Roman
Valico di
Schéggia
Schéggia Micciano
Micciano
575m 575m ruins of Fiesole – the amphitheatre
Chiaveretto Tavernelle and museum, then enjoy a picnic and
Chiaveretto
Tavernelle
ANGHIARI
Key ANGHIARI walk in the forest of Vallombrosa.
Adults may enjoy the spiritual peace of
Drive route exploring the many ancient churches,
sanctuaries and monasteries of the
area. For further details, see p169.
BRNI_162-163_ItinDrive16.indd 163 02/09/14 2:08 PM

164 BACK ROADS NORTHERN AND CENTRAL ITALY


1 Fiesole of San Domenico, home to two
Firenze, Toscana; 50014 important churches. Badia Fiesolana
This important Etruscan, then Roman, (Via della Badia dei Roccettini 9; closed
town was conquered by Florence in Sun and public holidays) is a rare
1125. Its panoramic position and clear example of the Romanesque style in
air induced the Medicis to build a Tuscany. The abbey was consecrated
villa here. At the town centre, Piazza in 1032 and dedicated to the
Mino da Fiesole is overlooked by martyred bishop, St Romulus. Its
14th-century Palazzo Pretorio with serpentine and marble façade was
its handsome double loggia. The retained during 15th-century
Duomo di San Romulo di Fiesole has restorations attributed to architects
an impressive polyptych by Bicci di Brunelleschi and Michelozzo. The
Lorenzo (1373–1452) depicting interior, and the convent next door,
stories of Saint Nicholas. Nearby, the show the rational style of the early
Area Archeologica (closed Tue in Florentine Renaissance and use of
winter) contains a superb Roman the local grey stone, pietra serena.
theatre and baths from the 1st Nearby, the 15th-century Chiesa di
century BC. Evidence of the San Domenico contains works by the
Etruscans is still obvious from the city locally born Renaissance painter and
VISITING FIESOLE walls (Via della Mura Etrusche) and monk Fra Angelico (c1395–1455).
Take the SS65 from Firenze. Turn right the tombs in Via del Bargellino. For ª Head back down the hill on SP53
on Via Salviati and follow signs to Fiesole. sumptuous views of Florence, take towards Florence. Follow signs for SS67
Tourist Information Via San Francesco, by the side of autostrade to Pontassieve. Follow the
The tourist office (Via dei Partigiani 3; the Duomo, up to the convent, brown signs for Vallombrosa, via
055 596 1323; www.comune.fiesole. which stands on the site of the Pelago on SR70, then right on SP83
fi.it) is next to the Area Archeologica. original Roman acropolis. then onto Via Vallombrosana (SP85).
The three museums around the Roman
theatre can be visited on one ticket and From the centre of town, Via Turn right to the Abbey. Park on Via
cover prehistory to the Renaissance. Vecchia Fiesolana leads to the hamlet San Benedetto.
WHERE TO STAY
2 Abbazia di Vallombrosa
FIESOLE
Villa San Michele expensive Vallambrosa, Firenze, Toscana; 50066
Part of this Renaissance villa is attributed Founded in 1036 by a Benedictine monk, the Vallombrosa Abbey has
to Michelangelo. Expect total luxury. a large monastery, church, cloister, tower, sacristy and kitchens. Its
Via Doccia 4, 50014; 055 567 8200; first monks lived as hermits in primitive conditions and the woods
www.villasanmichele.com
around are dotted with their chapels and holy places. This walk is a
ABBAZIA DI VALLOMBROSA good way to understand something of their way of life and history.
Grand hotel Vallombrosa inexpensive
This large hotel has simple rooms A one-hour walking tour (www.vallombrosa.it; open daily) was
and is an excellent base for trekking. Pick up a free map and audio guide remodelled in the 17th century and
Via G.Carducci 2, 50066; 055 862 012;
www.vallombrosalberghi.com from the Centro Visatori 1 (Via San has a rich Baroque interior. The
Benedetto 1; open Apr–Oct daily). Walk trompe l’oeil ceilings are a perfect
Above The green serpentine and white marble back down Via San Benedetto and example of the style. Exit the abbey
façade of Badia Fiesolana Below Consuma Pass, turn right into the road that runs in complex to the right. The road turns
a route through the Tuscan Hills west of Poppi front of the monastery. There is a round to the left and runs into an
Below right Statue of King Victor Emmanuel II large gate to the abbey, Church 2 elegant avenue of trees. On the right
in the Piazza Mino, Fiesole and ancient pharmacy. The church is a small Fish Pond 3, still well



















164-169_Back_Roads_Northern_Italy.indd 164 21/09/17 11:17 am

DRIVE 16: Sanctuaries and Forests 165



L A G O I N V A L L O MB R O S A
HQ Corpo 0 metres 150 150
0 yards
Forestale



V I A D E L
Fish
V I A S A N B E N E D E T T O
Pond Cappella delle
Colonne
Cappella del Paradisino
Beato Migliore
Cappella del Masso
V I A SA N G I O VA N G U A L B E R T O I N S A L T I N O Church di San Gualberto Above Grassy remains of the 1st-century BC
Cappella di Roman theatre, Fiesole Below Aerial view of
San Torello Abbazia di Vallombrosa, set within the forest
Centro Visatori
V I A D E L P A R A D I S I N O V I A D E L P A R A D I S I N O
Vie di Legni
EAT AND DRINK
Faggio Santo FIESOLE
Ristorante Perseus inexpensive
Rustic tables and unfussy food are
combined with great atmosphere,
stocked with fish, which was a useful English poet John Milton stayed here, especially on summer evenings when
food source for the monks. Follow Via as he mentioned Vallombrosa in his booking is recommended.
San Benedetto downhill; on the right poem, Paradise Lost. The terrace Piazza Mino 9r, 50014; 055 591 43;
closed Mon–Wed in winter
are the well-ordered Giardino offers splendid views – on a clear
Botanico (Botanic Gardens) and, at day – all the way to Florence’s Duomo. La Reggia degli Etruschi moderate
the bottom of the hill, the chalet-like Across the road from Paradisino is Excellent Tuscan cuisine is served in
this large restaurant with panoramic
HQ Corpo Forestale 4. At this point, a gushing fountain of ice-cold water. views over Florence. Enjoy wine
turn hard right. The path runs up the The road now slopes down towards tasting in the enoteca.
hill between some buildings of the the abbey and soon reaches an open Via San Francesco 18, 50014; 055 593
Corpo Forestale. Pass the open area area and a rough stone path leading 85; www.lareggiadeglietruschi.com
to the left, where an old saw mill up to the woods. Beside it are steep, ABBAZIA DI VALLOMBROSA
once stood, to a pretty picnic spot stone-lined cuttings forming artificial Archimede moderate
where water flows into the old public avenues called Vie di Legni (Wooden This restaurant uses vegetables
washing basin from the pond above. Roads) 0. These avenues once criss- straight from the owner’s farm. The
With the pond to the right, take the crossed the mountains and were Tuscan dishes include ribollita (bread
track straight uphill, marked Scala used to drag giant tree trunks to the and vegetable soup), mixed grills and
meat and fowl roasted on a spit.
Santa. At this point, the path becomes Arno to be floated down to Florence. Loc. Ponte Casalino, 50066; 055 869
steeper and the irregular stonework Further on, to the left, is the chapel 055; www.ristorantearchimede.it;
makes sensible shoes preferable. Faggio Santo (The Holy Beech Tree) closed Tue in winter
Once past the confines of the q, the holiest place here. The abbey’s
monastery, the path turns sharp left founder, St Gualberto, is said to have
over a stone bridge to a small chapel, arrived in a snowstorm and rested
the Cappella di San Torello 5. This is beneath the tree. When he awoke, it
the first of four chapels set in beautiful had sprouted leaves to protect him
woodland, the others being Cappella from the elements. The tree is still
del Masso di San Gualberto 6, there. A 10-minute walk leads back to
Cappella delle Colonne 7 and, after the abbey complex and the car park.
a sharp right turn, Cappella del Beato There is a good bar with toilet
Migliore 8. To the left of the last is a facilities above a large village green.
stone staircase leading up to the road ª Turn right along winding Via del
and the Paradisino 9. This complex Lago in Vallombrosa (to Consuma).
was originally a group of monk’s cells Turn right signposted Passo della
clustered around the small church. Consuma at Via Casentinese/SR70,
As the monastery’s fame grew and then left at SP74. Follow the brown
more visitors arrived, it became a signs to Castello di Romena.
type of hotel. It is believed that the Follow the road to the car park.
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€45; expensive, over €45


164-169_Back_Roads_Northern_Italy.indd 165 21/09/17 11:17 am

166 BACK ROADS NORTHERN AND CENTRAL ITALY


WHERE TO STAY
3 Castello di Romena and the three naves, pillars with
STIA AND AROUND Pratovecchio, Arezzo, Toscana; 52015 Lombard Christian capitals referring
Monastero Santa Maria Dating from the 10th century, this to fertility rites, and unadorned interior
della Neve inexpensive Castello (Jul–Aug: open daily; Mar–Oct: evoke a spiritual calm and tranquillity.
Set in the historic centre and run by open Thu–Sun; closed Nov–Feb) once had There is also a picnic area looking out
Dominican nuns, this guesthouse three central towers and 11 smaller over the valley towards Poppi.
offers basic but comfortable rooms. ones reinforcing the walls. Set on the ª Turn right on SP74 towards Stia,
Rules of the order apply (10pm curfew).
Piazza Landino 25, Pratovecchio 52015 highest defensive point of the then right on Via Fiorentina/SP73 into
(southeast of Stia on SP310); 0575 583 Casentino valley, the castle is thought Pratovecchio. After the piazza, turn left
774; www.monasterystays.com to have been visited by the poet into Via Garibaldi, then Via Roma to
Albergo Falterona inexpensive Dante (c.1265–1321) – who mentions “Centro Stia”. Don’t take SP556, keep
This newly refurbished hotel in a it in his Divine Comedy – after his exile straight, then right on Via Edmondo
Renaissance building in the historic from Florence. The castle still has its De Amicis. Take first left, under the arch
centre of town has a comfortable and keep, central tower with drawbridge, and park in Piazza Bernardo Tanucci.
relaxed atmosphere. Rooms are beamed
and some have frescoed ceilings. prison tower and Piazza d’Armi, where
Piazza Tanucci 85, 52017; 0575 583 the army was trained. Cypresses mark 4 Stia
545; www.albergofalterona.it the position of the walls and there Arezzo, Toscana; 52017
Borgo Tramonte inexpensive are fabulous views of the valley below. The pretty, historic town of Stia nestles
Simple, clean, rustic-style rooms in a The delightful Pieve di San Pietro di between the River Staggia and the
large restored 18th-century farmhouse Romena is nearby – head back down nascent River Arno, which runs down
on the edge of the Casentino Forest. the tree-lined avenue and take the the Casentino valley and on to
Enjoy the nearby walking trails,
mountain biking and horse riding. track on the left. At the T-junction, Florence. The town developed in the
Loc. Papiano, 52017; 0575 581 404; turn right on SP73 and into the car 11th century under the jurisdiction
www.borgotramonte.it park. The earliest reference to this of the Guidi Counts from Poppi, who
church was in 1054 and the current ruled over the area from the 11th–15th
CAMÁLDOLI AND AROUND building dates to 1152. There is centuries. Stia prospered down the
Monastery of Camáldoli inexpensive evidence of an earlier building from centuries due to its excellent woollen
Run by Benedictine monks, this offers
basic but peaceful stays within the an Etruscan or Roman cult. The cloth production, an industry that
monastery – rules apply (11pm curfew). simple Romanesque semicircular continues to this day. The centre of
Monastery of Camáldoli, 52010; 0575 apse faces east towards Jerusalem town is set around Piazza Tanucci
556 012; www.monasterystays.com
I Tre Baroni moderate
This resort in Moggiona, on the road
to Camáldoli, is a combination of
hotel rooms and apartments
scattered through the village. The
décor is period and the place is
relatively relaxed.
Via di Camáldoli 52, 52010 Moggiona
di Poppi; 0575 556 204; www.
itrebaroni.it















Top The ruins of Castello di Romena, above
the Casentino valley Right Piazza Tanucci’s
centrepiece, the Fontana dei Serpenti, Stia
Far right The charming Romanesque Pieve di
San Pietro di Romena, Castello di Romena
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €100; moderate, €100–200; expensive, over €200


164-169_Back_Roads_Northern_Italy.indd 166 21/09/17 11:17 am

DRIVE 16: Sanctuaries and Forests 167




















with the Fontana dei Serpenti and and elaborate cornices. Look out for Above left Eremo di Camáldoli, founded by
the Pieve di Santa Maria Assunta, a the fine altarpiece of the Madonna San Romualdo Above centre The Casentino
Romanesque church with a splendid by Andrea della Robbia (1435–1525). Forest, where the monks sought isolation
Annunciation by Bicci di Lorenzo Neaby, along Località Camáldoli, Above right Façade of the Romanesque
(1414). There’s also a shop selling the lies another interesting monastic Pieve di Santa Maria Assunta, Stia
famous local Casentino cloth. complex, run by the same order as
ª At lower end of Piazza Tanucci the hermitage. The Monastery of EAT AND DRINK
turn left before the bridge on SP310, Camáldoli, however, maintains closer STIA
back to Pratovecchio, turn left to community contact. At the centre of
Via Monte/SP72, then left onto Via the hamlet is a large hostel, a Il Ristorante Fattoria La Foresta
moderate
Appennino/SP72. Turn left to stay on monastery, and a church with major This simple and rustic restaurant
SP72 (signed Eremo di Camáldoli), works by the late-Renaissance artist serves typical local produce along
then join SP69 to the hermitage. Giorgio Vasari (1511–74). Don’t miss with seafood, home-made pasta
the Antica Farmacia (1543) – an old and Florentine steaks.
The Casentino Forest pharmacy – with walnut cabinets. Via Roma 31, 52017; 0575 582 032;
closed Tue
This vast forest provided the wood Camáldoli is also home to the
used to build the great fleet of the Foreste Casentinesi Visitor Centre CAMALDOLI
Medicis and, today, the Parco (open spring & summer), which has good Albergo Ristorante Camáldoli
Nazionale delle Foreste Casentinesi, maps of the area, making it the inexpensive
Monte Falterona e Campigna (www. perfect starting place for exploring This guesthouse has been looking
parcoforestecasentinesi.it) is still one after travellers for years. Rustic fare
of the most prized forests in Europe. the park’s 600-km (373-mile) network includes delicious acquacotta (literally
The forest is an important sanctuary of paths on foot, horseback or by bike. “cooked water”) – a hearty Tuscan
for the Apennine wolf, wild boar, ª Head south along SP67 towards soup, ravioli all’ortica made with ricotta
deer, and mouflon (mountain sheep). Poppi. At the junction with Via Roma/ and nettles, and roasted wild fennel.
Loc. Camáldoli, 52010; 0575 556 019
SR70 turn right, then left on Piazza
Garibaldi/SP65. Cross the bridge and
5 Camáldoli turn left into Piazza 4 Novembre, follow Below A glade at Camáldoli in the
Arezzo, Toscana; 52010 round to Piazza Gramsci and park. Casentino Forest
Italian monks sought to understand
God better by withdrawing from the
world to a life of contemplation in the
forest. The Eremo di Camáldoli (www.
Camaldoli.it) was one of the hermitages
founded by the Benedictine monk San
Romualdo (c. 953–1027), son of the
duke of Ravenna. He established
a community of five cells with a small
oratory here in c.1024. Only 14 monks
remain, cut off from visitors, but
Romualdo’s original austere cell is still
visible. The Church of the Hermitage
(c.1220) underwent an astonishing
Baroque transformation in the late
16th century, giving it grand frescoes
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€45; expensive, over €45


164-169_Back_Roads_Northern_Italy.indd 167 21/09/17 11:17 am

168 BACK ROADS NORTHERN AND CENTRAL ITALY



















Above The medieval walled town of Anghiari,
decked with flags Above right The birthplace 6 Poppi a local vet in 1972, and there is a
of sculptor Michelangelo, Caprese Michelangelo Arezzo, Toscana; 52014 small train to help visitors get about.
The historic heart of this castellated ª Cross back over the Arno to Piazza
WHERE TO STAY town rises majestically above the Garibaldi, then turn right at SR70
modern commercial centre. Poppi towards Santuario della Verna/Via
POPPI was the seat of power of the Guidi Bibbiena SR71. On SR71, keep left
Albergo Casentino inexpensive Counts until they picked the wrong onto Viale Michelangelo, then a sharp
The only hotel in the historic centre of side in the 1440 war between left onto Viale Luigi Gori/SS208 all the
Poppi fronts onto the piazza with comfy
rooms, a garden and restaurant. Florence and Milan. Fortunately, the way to La Verna. From the car park it’s
Piazza della Repubblica 6, 52014; 0575 splendid 12th-century Castello dei a 5–10-minute walk to the Sanctuary.
529 090; www.albergocasentino.it Conti Guidi (open 10am–7pm daily)
remains, with its magnificent tower, Della Robbia
CAPRESE MICHELANGELO mullion windows, battlements and
Il Vigno inexpensive stone staircases. Other highlights La Verna and the Casentino is home
to terracotta masterpieces of the
A rustic collection of restored farm
buildings with rooms and apartments include the colonnaded Piazza Della Robbia sculptors. Luca della
Robbia (1400–82) perfected a white
at daily or weekly rates. Mountain Amerighi, and the 17th-century
bikes and trail maps available. hexagonal Chiesa di Madonna del majolica with a blue background,
Loc. il Vigno 262, 52033; 0575 792 019; Morbo with a Madonna and Child by and yellow and green glazes to
www.agriturismoilvigno.eu protect the works from the elements.
Filippino Lippi (1457–1504). Andrea della Robbia (1435–1525)
Terra di Michelangelo moderate For something different, visit the created the masterpieces The
This agriturismo (farm stay) is a complex Poppi Zoo (open 9am–6pm daily; www. Crucifixion and The Assumption in
of stone farmhouses, apartments and parcozoopoppi.it). This large parkland, the Basilica Maggiore at La Verna.
rooms offering daily and weekly rates.
Loc. San Polo 70, 52033; 0575 791 055; dotted with pine, chestnut and oak
www.terradimichelangelo.com trees, houses various European animals
such as lynxes, wolves, deer, beavers 7 La Verna
Below The Santuario della Verna, where St Francis and porcupines in generally spacious Arezzo, Toscana; 52010
of Assisi once stayed enclosures. The zoo was founded by One of the holiest sites in Italy,
Santuario della Verna (www.laverna.
it) is a monastic community that
developed around Saint Francis of
Assisi (1182–1226) who spent 40
days in retreat here in 1224. While in
La Verna, he developed stigmata –
the wounds of Christ appeared on his
body. Count Orlando of Chiusi gave
La Verna to Francis as a retreat for
contemplation and built him the
chapel Santa Maria degli Angeli, the
nucleus of the convent. The sanctuary
appeals to believers and non-religious
alike as its stunning views, pristine
woods and fascinating collection of
buildings and the stories associated
with them are compelling.



164-169_Back_Roads_Northern_Italy.indd 168 21/09/17 11:17 am

DRIVE 16: Sanctuaries and Forests 169

COURSES IN POPPI
9 Anghiari
Arezzo, Toscana; 52031 Centro di Cultura Italiana Casentino
The unquestionable antiquity of this This cultural centre runs courses on the
Italian language and seminars on opera,
medieval citadel gives it a special cooking and even stone masonry.
charm and its knot of ancient lanes Via Cesare Battisti 5, 52014; 0575 529
and piazzas is pleasant to wander 774; www.parlital.it
round. It was of strategic importance
because of its position on the trading EAT AND DRINK
routes between the Adriatic and LA VERNA
central Italy. Impressive sections of its Refettorio del Pellegrino inexpensive
12th- and 13th-century walls remain Visitors to the refectory can expect
intact, containing several gateways a wholesome, set-price three-course
and even old churches. Apart from a meal, including a glass of wine.
reputed visit by Thomas Beckett in Santuario della Verna, 52010; 0575
the 12th century, Anghiari is most 5341; meals 12–1:30pm and 7:30pm
famous for the decisive battle in CAPRESE MICHELANGELO
ª Head southeast on SP208, turn right 1440, when the Florentine Medicis Il Rifugio moderate
onto Via Roma/SP60, then left on SP54 defeated the superior forces of the Expect hearty mountain food such as
to Caprese Michelangelo. Turn left at Via Visconti Milanese. Palazzo della home-made pasta with local truffles
Capoluogo, go up the hill and park. Battaglia (open 9am–7pm daily), in and mushrooms, and roast meats.
Loc. Lama di Caprese 47, 52033; 0575
the central Piazza Mameli, has scale 793 752; www.ilrifugioristorante.eu;
8 Caprese Michelangelo models of the battle. The town’s closed Wed
Arezzo, Toscana; 52033a main square, Piazza Balduccio, has Il Cerro moderate
This small mountain town is best a statue of Garibaldi and has been This family-run restaurant pays great
known as the birthplace, in 1475, a market area for 800 years. attention to local produce and wines.
of Michelangelo Buonarroti, one Via Il CerRo 120, 52033; 0575 793 923;
of the greatest artists of all time. www.ristoranteilcerro.com; closed Mon
& Tue
His father, a government function -
ary, worked here briefly, but soon ANGHIARI
after the boy’s birth, the family Ristorante La Nena moderate
returned to Florence. It is said that A cosy restaurant with attention
the artist returned here frequently, to detail on classic Tuscan dishes.
Corso Matteotti 10, 52031; 0575 789 491;
but there’s little evidence of his www.ristorantenena.it; closed Mon
presence. In the remains of the
castle is located a small museum Da Alighiero moderate–expensive
Enjoy superb home-made pastas with
(www.capresemichelangelo.net; open porcini, Chianina veal with rosemary,
11am–6pm Tue–Sun) for those who and semifreddo with pistachios.
wish to pay homage. Via Garibaldi 8, 52031; 0575 788 040;
ª Head south on SP47 to Anghiari. www.daalighiero.it; closed Tue
Follow SP43 avoiding signs for Centro,
then turn right up Corso Giacomo Top left Small shrine in the pristine
Matteotti to the car park. Walk via the woodland around La Verna Left The imposing
tunnel to the elevator up to town centre. tower of Castello dei Conti Guidi, Poppi
DAY TRIP OPTIONS From Stia, take the SP della Scarpaccia Secluded retreats
Younger kids will love the castles to Castello di Romena. Take SP73 to Based at Poppi 6, see its Madonna
and the zoo, while older ones should SR70 to Poppi. Return on SR70, SP310. and Child, then shop for picnic
enjoy Roman sights, a picnic and a Romans and a forest walk supplies. Drive to Camáldoli 5 to
forest walk. The more spiritual will tour the monastery and then picnic
enjoy the quiet forest holy places. Based at Fiesole 1, spend some time at the hermitage. Next, stop at Stia 4
shopping for a picnic. Then tour the to see its Romanesque church and
Castellos and animals Roman sights and museums, climbing then visit the delightful church
From pretty Stia 4, visit the up to the acropolis. Drive to Abbazia at Castello di Romena 3.
impressive ruins of Castello di di Vallombrosa 2 and enjoy a picnic From Poppi, head north on SP67 and
Romena 3, then drive on to the there, with the abbey’s jam, then work SP69 to Camáldoli. SP72, SP310 to
well-preserved Castello dei Conti off the food with a walk in the woods. Stia. SP della Scarpaccia, then left
Guidi in Poppi 6. For a final treat, Follow the drive’s directions, then to Romena. Take SP73 to SR70
hop on a train tour of Poppi zoo. return the same way. back to Poppi.


Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€45; expensive, over €45


164-169_Back_Roads_Northern_Italy.indd 169 21/09/17 11:17 am

BRNI_170-171_OpnDrv17.indd 170 27/10/11 6:04 PM
Back Roads LAYERS PRINTED:
Section opener template “UK” LAYER
(OpenType)
Date 02 November 2009
Size 145mm x 217mm
Font Myriad Pro

DRIVE 17





Milan
Turin Venice
IT AL Y
Genoa Bologna
Florence
Perugia
Rome



Val d’Arno

and the

Chianti Hills


Ponte Buriano

to Volpaia



Highlights

• Landscapes of Leonardo
See the ancient bridge and Le Balze
scenery that so captivated Leonardo da
Vinci that he put them in his paintings
• Chianti Classico
Enjoy the rolling hills and neat vines
that make Chianti one of Europe’s
most delightful wine-making areas
• Soft stone villages of Chianti
Explore some of Italy’s most beautiful
small towns, producing excellent wine
and the highest quality olive oil
• The art of Nature
Explore the modern sculpture gallery
at Pievasciata, where artists display
their works in a natural park



Autumn vines, changing colour, near Castello
di Brollio in Chianti




BRNI_170-171_OpnDrv17.indd 171 27/10/11 6:04 PM

172 BACK ROADS NORTHERN AND CENTRAL ITALY

Val d’Arno and the Chianti Hills

Many of the mystical landscapes that glow in the paintings of Leonardo da
Vinci can be seen in a little known part of Tuscany between the right bank
of the River Arno and the Pratomagno mountain range. Crossing the Arno,
the road soon leaves the industrial flatlands and rises into the delightful
countryside of the Chianti. This area is most famous for the light red wine
it produces that is the perfect match for a bowl of delicious pasta. Like
the wine, the people of the area are generous and easygoing, and the
light on the landscape has inspired painters and poets, while the local
produce are specialities to be savoured.
Póggio Uomo
S. Polo
S. Polo Palazzolo Póggio Uomo
Palazzolo
di Sasso
Reggello
in Chianti
in Chianti Villa Pitti Reggello di Sasso
Villa Pitti
1538m
1538m
Str
Stradaada
Póggio alla
in Chianti Póggio alla Casamora Rocca Rocca
in Chianti
Casamora
Croce Croce Ricciarda
Ricciarda
Pian di Scò
0 kilometres 6 Brollo Brollo Vággio Pian di Scò Póggio MasserecciPóggio Masserecci
Vággio
Póggio Tondo 1548m1548m
Póggio Tondo
788m 788m
Malassino
Castelfranco
0 miles 6 Cintóiatóia FiglineFigline Malassino Castelfranco
Cin
di Sopra
ValdarnoValdarno di Sopra
Le B
Le Bolleolle Faella Faella
Greve
Greve
Certignano Trévaneane
Certignano
Trév
Piantravigne Loro Loro
Piantravigne
Ciuffenna
Dudda Ciuffenna
Dudda
VIA SETTE
Bagnena
Gaville Arno Arno VIA SETTE Bagnena
Gaville
Montefiorallealle GREVE IN PONTI Bibbiano
Montefior
GREVE IN
PONTI
Bibbiano
CHIANTI
Sambuca
Sambuca CHIANTI Lucolena S. GiovanniS. Giovanni Vezza Vezza Subbiano
Lucolena
Subbiano
S. Giustino
Penna
Terranuova
Pesa Pesa ValdarnoValdarno Terranuova Penna S. Giustino M. CapanninoM. Capannino
Valdano
Valdano
Bracciolini
Monte San MicheleMonte San Michele Bracciolini 747m747m
Castelnuoro
Panzano
Panzano 893m893m Castelnuoro
Gainghereto
Lámole
dei Sabbioni
Barberino
Barberino Torrente Pesa Lámole dei Sabbioni Gainghereto Castiglion Arno Arno
Castiglion
Val d'Elsa
Val d'Elsa Campogialli BORROBORRO Fibocchi
Torrente Pesa
Campogialli
Fibocchi
VOLPAIA TOSCANATOSCANA
VOLPAIA
Ponte alla
S. Donato Cavríglia Monticelloello Ponte alla
S. Donato
Montic
Cavríglia
Chiassa
Castelluccio
Lucarelli
Lucarelli MontevarchiMontevarchi Levanella Laterina Castelluccio Chiassa
Levanella
Laterina
PONTE BURIANOPONTE BURIANO
Lev
Levaneane Antría Antría
Pietrafitta M o n t i d e l C h i a n t i i Lago dellaLago della
Pietrafitta
Badia aBadia a
ColtibuonoColtibuono PennaPenna
Pratan
Torre Torre Indicatore Pratanticotico
Indicatore
RADDA
CASTELLINA RADDA Gaiole Búcine Ponticino ArezzoArezzo
Ponticino
CASTELLINA
Búcine
Gaiole
IN CHIANTI
IN CHIANTI IN CHIANTI in Chianti Pogi Pogi Póggiolaiola
IN CHIANTI
in Chianti
M o n t i d e l C h i a n t
Pógg
Staggiano
Monte Luco
Monte Luco Staggiano
838m 838m Battifolleolle
Battif
Nusenna
Nusenna
Capánnole
Fonterútoli Capánnole San Zenoeno
Fonterútoli
San Z
S. Martino al Vento
Lecchi
Stággia
Stággia Lecchi S. Martino al Vento Olmo Olmo
CASTELLO
CASTELLO Ambra Pieve Pieve
Ambra
Vagliagli Civitellaella al Toppo
Civit
al Toppo
Vagliagli
DI BROLIO
in Val di Chiana
Lornano
S. Regolo
Lornano S. Regolo DI BROLIO Rosennano in Val di Chiana
Rosennano
Monti Monti
CHIANTI
CHIANTI Villa a Sesta
Villa a Sesta
Pievasciata
SCULPTURE PARK Pievasciata SanSan Palazzuolo
SCULPTURE PARK
Palazzuolo
ACTIVITIES Bossi Bossi Felice Felice La Selva Alto Alto
La Selva
Castello di
Castello di
Mantalto
Pianella
Monteliscai
Photograph the brilliant autumn colours Monteliscai Pianella Castelnuovo Mantalto
Castelnuovo
in Chianti as the vine leaves turn gold Berardenga
Berardenga
against the silver-green of the olive trees
Get married in Greve, where the
Comune conducts the ceremony and
there are villas and restaurants in
abundance for guests and gourmets
Take a Tuscan cooking class in Chianti
and learn about the local food that
accompanies the wine
Jump on a bike and follow the path
of the “Eroica” bike race along the back
roads of Chianti
172-173_Back_Roads_Northern_Italy.indd 172 06/11/17 5:27 pm
Back Roads LAYERS PRINTED:
Tour Map Spread template “UK” LAYER
(OpenType)
Date 02 November 2009
Size 145mm x 217mm
Font Frutiger Pro, Myriad Pro

DRIVE 17: Val d’Arno and the Chianti Hills 173

PLAN YOUR DRIVE

Start/finish: Ponte Buriano to Volpaia.
Number of days: 2–3 days.
Distance: 100 km (62 miles).
Road conditions: Roads are generally
good and well signposted. In winter
the Chianti roads can be icy and snow
chains may be needed on some roads.
When to go: Chianti has a definite
season, May–Oct, and at other times of
Póggio Uomo
S. Polo Palazzolo Póggio Uomo
S. Polo
Palazzolo
di Sasso
Reggello
in Chianti
in Chianti Villa Pitti Reggello di Sasso Above Looking towards the church of Santa Croce in Piazza Matteotti, Greve in Chianti, see p174 the year many restaurants and amenities
Villa Pitti
1538m
1538m
Stradaada close. Autumn is less crowded and the
Str
Póggio alla
in Chianti
in Chianti Póggio alla Casamora Rocca Rocca changing colour of the leaves is beautiful.
Casamora
Croce Croce Ricciarda
Ricciarda
Pian di Scò
Brollo Brollo Vággio Pian di Scò Póggio MasserecciPóggio Masserecci
Vággio
Póggio Tondo
Póggio Tondo 1548m1548m KEY Opening: Major museums are open
788m 788m 8:30am–7:30pm and often close Mon.
Malassino
Castelfranco
Cin
Cintóiatóia FiglineFigline Malassino Castelfranco
di Sopra
ValdarnoValdarno di Sopra Drive route Small museums often only open on
Le Bolleolle Faella Faella
Le B
Greve
Greve
Certignano
Certignano Trévaneane weekends outside the summer months.
Trév
Piantravigne Loro Loro Churches vary but are generally open
Piantravigne
Ciuffenna
Dudda
Dudda Ciuffenna 7:30am–noon and 3–7:30pm. Shops
VIA SETTE
Bagnena
Gaville Arno Arno VIA SETTE Bagnena
Gaville
Montefiorallealle GREVE IN PONTI Bibbiano open 10am–1pm and 4–8pm and
Montefior
PONTI
GREVE IN
Bibbiano
CHIANTI
Sambuca
Sambuca CHIANTI Lucolena S. GiovanniS. Giovanni Vezza Vezza Subbiano close Sun and Mon mornings.
Lucolena
Subbiano
S. Giustino
Penna
Terranuova
Pesa Pesa ValdarnoValdarno Terranuova Penna S. Giustino M. CapanninoM. Capannino
Valdano
Valdano
Bracciolini
Monte San MicheleMonte San Michele Bracciolini 747m747m Main market days: Loro Ciuffenna:
Castelnuoro
Panzano 893m893m Castelnuoro Mon; Pian di Scò, Greve in Chianti and
Panzano
Gainghereto
Lámole
dei Sabbioni
Barberino
Barberino Torrente Pesa Lámole dei Sabbioni Gainghereto Castiglion Arno Arno
Castiglion
Torrente Pesa
Val d'Elsa Campogialli BORROBORRO Fibocchi Castellina in Chianti: Sat; Radda in
Val d'Elsa
Campogialli
Fibocchi
VOLPAIA TOSCANATOSCANA
VOLPAIA
Ponte alla
S. Donato Cavríglia Monticelloello Ponte alla Chianti: 4th Mon of month.
S. Donato
Montic
Cavríglia
Chiassa
Castelluccio
Lucarelli
Lucarelli MontevarchiMontevarchi Levanella Laterina Castelluccio Chiassa
Laterina
Levanella
PONTE BURIANOPONTE BURIANO Major festivals: All over: Cantine
Levaneane Antría Antría
Lev
Pietrafitta M o n t i d e l C h i a n t i i Lago dellaLago della Aperte (tasting day at wineries), last
Pietrafitta
Badia aBadia a
ColtibuonoColtibuono PennaPenna Sun in May; Calici delle Stelle, night of
Pratan
Torre Torre Indicatore Pratanticotico San Lorenzo (wine-tasting in the
Indicatore
RADDA
CASTELLINA
CASTELLINA RADDA Gaiole Búcine Ponticino ArezzoArezzo
Ponticino
Búcine
Gaiole
IN CHIANTI
IN CHIANTI
IN CHIANTI IN CHIANTI in Chianti Pogi Pogi Póggiolaiola piazzas), Aug 10; San Martino, cantinas
in Chianti
M o n t i d e l C h i a n t
Pógg
Staggiano
Monte Luco
Monte Luco Staggiano open for tasting of the new wine, 2nd
838m 838m Battifolleolle
Battif
Nusenna
Nusenna week Nov. Greve: Chianti Classico
Capánnole
Fonterútoli
Fonterútoli Capánnole San Zenoeno Wine Festival, 2nd weekend in Sep.
San Z
S. Martino al Vento
Lecchi
Stággia
Stággia Lecchi S. Martino al Vento Olmo Olmo
CASTELLO
CASTELLO Ambra Pieve Pieve Shopping: The area is famous for
Ambra
Civit
Vagliagli
al Toppo
Vagliagli Civitellaella al Toppo
DI BROLIO
in Val di Chiana
Lornano S. Regolo DI BROLIO Rosennano in Val di Chiana wines and olive oil. Wine shops and
S. Regolo
Lornano
Rosennano
Monti Monti most vineyards have the capacity to
CHIANTI Villa a Sesta Below Glorious country villa and autumn vines in the Val d’Arno, see p174 Far left A traditional ship locally and internationally.
CHIANTI
Villa a Sesta
Pievasciata
SCULPTURE PARK Pievasciata SanSan Palazzuolo majolica platter in Castellina in Chianti, see p175
SCULPTURE PARK
Palazzuolo
Felice Felice La Selva Alto Alto
La Selva
Bossi Bossi
Castello di
Castello di DAY TRIP OPTIONS
Mantalto
Monteliscai Pianella Mantalto
Pianella
Monteliscai
Castelnuovo
Castelnuovo
Berardenga
Berardenga Using Greve in Chianti as a base,
families will enjoy the drive through
pretty hamlets along the Via Sette
Ponti, picking up a picnic on the way
to Ponte Buriano Natural Reserve,
ideal for a walk. Wine lovers can stay
at Castellina in Chianti to enjoy a wine
tasting, tour a vineyard and explore
cellars in Chianti wine towns. History
buffs will enjoy medieval town halls
and churches, castles and Etruscan
finds, then contrasting this all with a
walk around an outdoor modern
sculpture park. For full details, see p177.
172-173_Back_Roads_Northern_Italy.indd 173 06/11/17 5:27 pm

174 BACK ROADS NORTHERN AND CENTRAL ITALY


1 Ponte Buriano 3 Via Sette Ponti
Arezzo, Toscana; 52100 Arezzo, Toscana; 52024, 52028, 52026
With its seven beautiful arches crossing A series of pretty villages mark the
the River Arno, the 13th-century defensive points on the Via Sette Ponti
Romanesque Ponte Buriano is the (Road of the Seven Bridges), with views
start of an ancient pilgrim route, the over the lake basin of the Balze. In tiny
Via Sette Ponti. The bridge also marks Loro Ciuffenna, visit the Romanesque
the start of a Regional Natural Reserve Pieve di San Pietro a Gropina, with a
that runs along the river to the dam at carved stone pulpit and capitals, and
Penna. These wetlands are key nesting the ancient Tuscan mill.
grounds for migrating birds – find out Further along the SP1, Piantravigne
about trails through the reserve from perches perilously amid the towering
the visitor centre (by the bridge; 393 sand and limestone pinnacles of
Above Busy bric-à-brac market in Greve 53089; www.parks.it) at Ponte Buriano. Le Balze. The final stop, the parish
in Chianti The bridge itself has not changed church of Santa Maria in Pian di Scò,
since Leonardo da Vinci visited it in with its imposing bell tower, still has
GETTING TO PONTE BURIANO
the late 15th century, when he was a simple Romanesque interior, largely
From A1 Florence-Rome, take Arezzo so taken by its beauty he put it in the unaltered since the 12th century.
exit. Pass under Viale Don Minzoni, then background of his Mona Lisa. ª Leave on SP87 to Figline Valdarno.
left towards Bibbiena. At roundabout, ª Head northwest along Via Sette At roundabout, take 2nd exit onto Via
take Via Sette Ponti/SP1 to Ponte Buriano.
Cross bridge, through town, turn left and Ponti/SP1, through Castiglion Fibocchi. Francesco Petrarca/SS69. Turn left at
left again. Park near the river on the right. At San Giustino Valdarno, turn left for Via Nicolò Copernico/SP16 to Greve in
Borro. Follow signs to the car park. Chianti. Follow signs to car park.
WHERE TO STAY
2 Borro 4 Greve in Chianti
Arezzo, Toscana; 52028 Florence, Toscana; 50022
PONTE BURIANO In the medieval era, this tiny clutch At the heart of town, Piazza Matteoti’s
Le Bilodole inexpensive of houses could only be reached by irregular architecture reveals Greve’s
This central farmhouse has a pool and
offers good breakfasts in quiet environs. a drawbridge spanning a deep gully. prosperity in the Middle Ages, as the
Loc. Cincelli 11, 52100; 0575 364 655; Today, this hamlet has been fully wealthy merchants were required to
www.bilodole.it restored by the Ferragamo family pay for their own loggias (porticoes) –
(of the Florentine fashion house), now filled with shops, bars and
AROUND PONTE BURIANO
Badia Di Campoleone expensive and now houses artisans’ workshops. restaurants. The statue in the piazza
This luxurious villa offers a wellness The automated presepe, or nativity is of local explorer Giovanni da
centre, pool and restaurants. scene (open daily), which rather Verrazzano (1485–1528), the Italian
Loc. Castelluccio 38, Capolona 52010; surprisingly includes Pinocchio, was who sailed to North America.
0575 451 561; www.badiacampoleone.it created by the local priest. Chianti is a top cycling destination
BORRO ª Return to Via Sette Ponti/SP1 and and the Eroica Trail is well signposted
Il Borro moderate–expensive turn left at Loro Ciuffenna, park in and suitable for all levels. Bikes can
Rent an 18th-century villa or a simple Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II. Return to be hired from Officiana Ramuzzi (Via
apartment. The staff is very helpful. SP1 and carry on before turning left Italo Stecchi 23, Greve in Chianti 50022;
San Giustino Valdarno, Loc. Borro 1, on Strada Comunale di Piantravigne 055 853037; www.ramuzzi.com).
52020; 055 977 053; www.ilborro.com
to town. Return to SP1 to Pian di Scò. ª Take SR222 south to Castellina in
VIA SETTE PONTI In town, turn right into Viale Alessandro Chianti. Park to the south of the town
Villa Belpoggio moderate Volta/SP1 and use car park on right. centre on Via 4 Novembre.
Only 2 km (1 mile) from Loro Ciuffenna
this historic house in luxurious gardens
has comfortable rooms and suites.
Via Sette Ponti Ponente 40, Loro
Ciuffenna 52024; 055 969 4411;
www.villabelpoggio.com
CASTELLINA IN CHIANTI
Palazzo Squarcialupi expensive
In the historic centre, this large hotel
has comfy rooms, pool and terrace.
Via Ferruccio 22, 53011; 0577 741 186;
www.palazzosquarcialupi.com
Right Typical Le Balze sandstone landscape
near Piantravigne Far right The famous
seven-arched bridge of Ponte Buriano




174-177_Back_Roads_Northern_Italy.indd 174 21/09/17 11:19 am
Back Roads LAYERS PRINTED:
Catalogue Spread template “UK” LAYER
(OpenType)
Date 02 November 2009
Size 145mm x 217mm
Fonts Bulletfont, Clearbullet,
Frutiger Pro, Myriad Pro, Travelfont

DRIVE 17: Val d’Arno and the Chianti Hills 175

5 Castellina in Chianti
Siena, Toscana; 53011
The rolling hills of the Chianti have always separated Florence and
Siena, the two great Tuscan rivals for power. Barely touched over the
centuries, the fields and vineyards remain as they were when they
were first carved out by oxen. The towns, too, have changed little and
reflect the intense respect of their residents for the traditional values.

A one-hour walking tour Etruscan exhibits from the area. Head
Start from the car park with views east out of the square to the right past the
across the fields of Chianti. At the top trattoria La Torre. Take Vicolo della Above The Neo-Romanesque Church of San
of the steep entry ramp, join the main Rocca downhill to the main street, Salvatore, Castellina in Chianti
road that skirts the town. Follow this Via Ferruccio, which can get busy in
to the left, then on the right, on summer. Directly opposite is the PRODUCE IN THE VAL D’ARNO
the corner of Via delle Mura, Renaissance Palazzo
is Enoteca Poggio Amorelli Squarcialupi 4, now a Zolfino beans and Valdarno chicken –
1, below a square castle- fashionable hotel and the both local delicacies – as well as olive
like bastion – taste its wine store Fattoria La oil and Vin Santo can be bought from
Fattoria Casamora (Via di Casabiondo
wines or arrange a Castellina (0577 740454 ; 5, Pian di Scò 52026; 055 960 046; www.
vineyard visit. Continue www.lacastellina.it). Tastings casamora.it). For home-made yoghurt
along Via delle Mura up the and tours can be organized and cheeses, try La Capanna del Sole
hill to the Rocca della The black cockerel here. Over the road is a classic (Loc. Casamona, Loro Ciuffenna 52024;
Comune. Walk past insignia of Chianti butcher’s shop, Macelleria 335 574 7699; www.capannadelsole.it).
Call small farm suppliers before visiting.
Remembrance Park on the Stiaccini 5. Try a delicious
left, with valley views, and turn right panino con la finochiana (fennel EAT AND DRINK
into Piazza della Comune 2, salami sandwich). Slightly further up
dominated by the huge Rocca built the hill is the Tourist Office 6 (Apr– AROUND PONTE BURIANO
by the Medici to defend against Siena. Nov: open daily) for information on Il Grano Arso expensive
The entire town was once fortified, wineries and Etruscan tombs. If more Chef Andrea mixes local tradition with
but most of the walls and the gates refreshment is needed, the Chianti dishes from his native Apulia. .
are long gone. Left of the tower is the Bar, further uphill, provides simple Piazza Italia, 4R, 52029, Castiglion
Museo Archeologico del Chianti 3 snacks and wine by the glass. At the Fibocchi (Arezzo); 0575 1484731; www.
ilgranoarso.it; closed Mon & Tue lunch
(closed Wed), which contains mostly top of the street is the Church of San
Salvatore 7, which was rebuilt BORRO
after World War II. It contains a Osteria del Borro moderate
Church of 0 metres 70 fresco, Madonna Enthroned, by A romantic setting, this place specializes
San Salvatore in seafood and meat – superb
the pre-Renaissance artist
0 yards 70 gourmet treats from an open kitchen.
Lorenzo di Bicci (1373–1452). Via Pio Borri, 52024; 055 977 2333; www.
Piazza della Return to Via Ferruccio and take osteriadelborro.it; closed Wed in winter
Comune Tourist Office
the path to the left leading into
Museo Archeologico VIA SETTE PONTI
del Chianti Via delle Volte 8. This medieval Ristorante La Torre moderate
Macelleria Palazzo Squarcialupi enclosed walkway runs parallel
Stiaccini Located inside a medieval tower. The
Via delle Volte to Via Ferruccio and was used for fish dishes here are a highlight.
defensive and religious purposes. Via Alighieri, 20 Loro Ciuffenna 52024;
To the left, slit windows provide 055 917 2032; www.ilristorantelatorre.
glimpses of the countryside, and it; closed Mon
VIA FERRUCCI O
V I A D E L L E M U R A
Enoteca Poggio to the right some of the old
Amorelli GREVE IN CHIANTI
cellars have been turned into Da Verrazzano moderate
workshops and restaurants. The Enjoy Tuscan treats such as ribollita
walkway finally returns to Via (hearty soup), panzanella (tomato and
Ferruccio, close to the car park. bread salad) and good wine on a
splendid terrace overlooking the piazza.
ª Head south, turn left at Via Piazza Matteotti 28, 50022; 055 853
V I A A L D O M O R O del Mandorlo to SP102, then on to 189; www.ristoranteverrazzano.it;
V I A 4 N O V E M B R E
closed Sun pm/Mon & Jan
Vagliagli. Fork left to Monteliscai.
V I A L E D E L L A R I M E M B R A N Z A
At Via dei Ponti/SS408 turn left,
Parking then left again to Strada CASTELLINA IN CHIANTI
Comunale di Catignano. Turn left La Torre moderate
Tuck into good traditional food in the
to Pievasciata, then left on Via del central piazza.
VIA E. BERLINGUER
Campana to the sculpture park. Piazza Umberto 1, 53011; 0577 740 236
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€45; expensive, over €45
174-177_Back_Roads_Northern_Italy.indd 175 21/09/17 11:19 am

176 BACK ROADS NORTHERN AND CENTRAL ITALY

















Above Radda in Chianti, once the capital city
of Chianti Above right Volpaia, known for its Wine tasting in Chianti ª On leaving the park turn left (north).
blooming flowers in early summer Vineyards are working enterprises, Drive 3 km (2 miles) on a dirt track. Turn
so try to book in advance for tours right, then left onto SP408. Turn right
COOKERY COURSES IN CHIANTI and tastings. Large operators usually towards Castelnuovo Berardenga; fork
have staff on hand, but smaller ones
Preparing food can be as much fun right, staying on SP484. Park on the left,
as drinking the wine that goes with may need to call someone who can opposite the Fattoria Castello Di Brolio.
speak English. However, driving
it, and at Tenuta Casanova (Loc.
Sant’Agnese 20, Castellina in Chianti around, visitors will see “cantina 7 Castello di Brolio
53011; www.tenutacasanova.it) they aperta” signs, which indicate that the
show how to do both with gusto and vineyard is open for tasting and Siena, Toscana; 53013
finesse. Or learn to cook a four-course buying wine. There is usually a small This small village is surrounded by an
Tuscan meal in the grand Villa Fattoria charge for a tour and tasting and enormous vineyard and castle with the
di Vistarenni (Loc. Vistarenni, Gaiole in this often includes snacks. same name that date back to the 10th
Chianti 53013; 0577 738 476; www.
villavistarenni.com), located between century and have been owned by the
Gaiole and Radda. 6 Chianti Sculpture Park Ricasoli family since then. Although it’s
Pievasciata, Siena, Toscana; 53010 now part of Siena, the castle (Mar–Nov:
WHERE TO STAY This contemporary sculpture park closed Mon) was a Florentine stronghold
(Apr–Oct: open daily; Nov–Mar: call 0577 that was demolished by the Sienese
AROUND CHIANTI
SCULPTURE PARK 357151; www.chiantisculpturepark.it) is army, then completely rebuilt in the
Villa Astreo moderate in a superb setting of macchia scrub, 16th century. Baron Bettino Ricasoli
Each room in this exceptional and holm oak and pine trees. The one-hour (1809–80), who played a key role in
historic B&B has a truly individual style. trail visits 25 site-specific works by the Unification of Italy and was
Via Del Colombaione 4, Vagliagli di Italian and international artists, such twice Italy’s prime minister, gave it
Castelnuovo Berardenga 53010 (2km/1 as William Furlong’s Off the Beaten Track: its current mock-medieval style in
mile northeast of sculpture park); 0577 stainless-steel cubes that emit sounds the 19th century. There is still
322 624; www.astreo.it
of city life as you pass. Built in May evidence of a mortar attack from
AROUND CASTELLO DI BROLIO 2004, the park was the inspiration of World War II on the western wing.
Villa di Sotto inexpensive Rosalba and Piero Giadrossi, who are Taste the Baron’s highly regarded
This simple B&B, about 2 km (1 mile) often at the nearby gallery La Fornace. wines at the wine shop (open daily).
south of Brolio, offers genuine Italian
warmth and hospitality on the edge
of the sweet village of Villa a Sesta. Below The beautiful rolling hills of Chianti, dotted with vineyards
Via San Caterina 30, Villa a Sesta 53100;
347 932 7090; www.villadisotto.it
AROUND RADDA IN CHIANTI
Villa Fattoria di Vistarenni moderate
This historic villa, between Gaiole and
Radda, is a 16th-century residence
with original period furniture. Enjoy
B&B or even hire the entire estate.
Loc. Vistarenni, Gaiole in Chianti 53013;
0577 738 476; www.villavistarenni.com
VOLPAIA
La Locanda expensive
This rustic converted farmhouse in the
hills above Volpaia is a beautiful and
peaceful Tuscan retreat.
Loc. Montanino di Volpaia 53017; 0577
738 833; www.lalocanda.it
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €100; moderate, €100–€200; expensive, over €200

174-177_Back_Roads_Northern_Italy.indd 176 21/09/17 11:19 am
Back Roads LAYERS PRINTED:
Catalogue Spread template “UK” LAYER
(OpenType)
Date 02 November 2009
Size 145mm x 217mm
Fonts Bulletfont, Clearbullet,
Frutiger Pro, Myriad Pro, Travelfont

DRIVE 17: Val d’Arno and the Chianti Hills 177


ª Return north on SP484, turn right at del Chianti/SP2bis (under SR429)
SP408 towards Gaiole. Fork left at SP2, towards Volpaia. Turn right on
then take SR429 into Radda in Chianti. SR114C, then right on SP112.
Turn right at Piazza 4 Novembre to park.
The famous Gallo Nero
8 Radda in Chianti Archduke Cosimo III chose the black
Siena, Toscana; 53017 cockerel – Gallo Nero – as the symbol
The capital of Chianti in the 14th for the area’s wine makers in the 18th
century as he was sick of arguments
century, tiny Radda still retains its about which was the “true” wine of
sense of import as one of the main Chianti. Since then, if the bottle has
towns in the Chianti League. Pride in an image of the Gallo Nero in a red
its history is revealed by the family circle on the label on its neck, then
heraldic shields that adorn the front it is Chianti Classico. However, it was Above Bell tower or campanile in the little
of the Palazzo di Podestà (now the Baron Ricasoli who first defined classic hamlet of Volpaia Below left The façade of
Chianti wine in 1874. It has to include
town hall) in Piazza Ferrucci. This was 75 per cent Sangiovese and 25 per the Palazzo di Podestà, Radda in Chianti
where the podestà or magistrate was cent Malvasia and Trebbiano grapes.
based. Across the square is the EAT AND DRINK
Chiesa di San Niccolo, its original
Romanesque design still evident 9 Volpaia NEAR CHIANTI SCULPTURE PARK
despite the fact that it was heavily Siena, Toscana; 53017 La Taverna Di Vagliagli moderate
remodelled in the last century. First mentioned in the 12th century, This restaurant, between Castellina
ª Drive back down the hill, turn right Volpaia was repeatedly damaged, and Pievasciata, offers an intimate,
at the roundabout onto Via La Strada then rebuilt as a result of its strategic elegant atmosphere with excellent
service, superb food and good wine.
position between warring Sienese Via del Sergente 4, Vagliagli 53019;
and Florentine forces. The walled 0577 322 532; closed Tue
village improved its economy during RADDA IN CHIANTI
a period of stability in the 16th Le Forchette del Chianti moderate
century. A central point for viniculture On the town wall overlooking the
in the area, the village is essentially a valley. Run by two sisters serving
large winery owned by the Stianti honest traditional Tuscan dishes
family. The village cellars, such as alongside a good wine list.
Viale Matteotti 5, 53017 ; 0577 738 923;
those in the crypt of 15th-century www.leforchettedelchianti.it; closed Thu
Commenda di Sant’Eufrosino (guided
tours by appointment; www.volpaia. VOLPAIA
com), designed by Michelozzo, La Bottega moderate
contain vast wooden barrels, a wine Come here for the hearty, unpretentious
bar, bottling plant and olive mill. The country cooking, great views from the
outdoor terrace and home-made cakes.
enoteca also sells a booklet mapping Piazza della Torre 1, 53017; 0577 735602;
out various countryside walks. www.labottegadivolpaia.it; closed Tue
DAY TRIP OPTIONS Red, red wine Ancient history, modern art
There’s plenty to do in this area, from It’s impossible to avoid wine here. In From Greve in Chianti 4, explore the
a bird-watching picnic to a food and Castellina in Chianti 5, visit the medieval market town, then drive to
wine tour, and a historical trip looking Enoteca Poggio Amorelli for a quick Radda in Chianti 8, to see the
at ancient and modern life. brush-up on the local wines, then buy architecture of a once powerful city.
some snacks in the deli. Visit Radda in Then drive across to Castellina in
Walk on the wild side Chianti 8, then it’s off to Volpaia 9 Chianti 5 for a look at evidence of
Starting from Greve in Chianti 4 to explore its ancient wine cellars ancient Etruscan. Stay for lunch and
drive over to the Val d’Arno visiting and see its wine-production methods. a glass of wine, then head to the
the villages of the Via Sette Ponti 3 Finally, drive back to Castello di Brolio Chianti Sculpture Park 6, for a walk
and picking up some local produce 7, to visit the castle and vineyard around the outside modern art
along the way. Stop at Ponte Buriano owned by the famous Ricasoli family. sculptures in a natural setting.
1 and pick up a map from the visitor
centre to follow a trail through the From Castellina, take SR22, then SR429 From Greve in Chianti, take SR222
Regional Nature Reserve, stopping to Radda in Chianti, then through south then SP114c to Radda in Chianti.
for a picnic along the way. Radda turn left on SP2bis, right on Take the Via Strada del Chianti to
SP114c, SP112 to Volpaia. Return to Castellina in Chianti, then SR222 and
Follow the drive directions in reverse, then Radda, down SP2bis, SR429, SP114a, left SP102 to the Chianti Sculpture Park.
retrace the route at the end of the day. up SP408 and right on SP484 to Brolio. Retrace the journey to get home.

Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€45; expensive, over €45


174-177_Back_Roads_Northern_Italy.indd 177 21/09/17 11:19 am

BRNI_178-179_OpnDrv18.indd 178 27/10/11 6:04 PM
Back Roads LAYERS PRINTED:
Section opener template “UK” LAYER
(OpenType)
Date 02 November 2009
Size 145mm x 217mm
Font Myriad Pro

DRIVE 18





Milan
Turin Venice
IT AL Y
Genoa Bologna
Florence
Perugia
Rome



Sacred Paths


San Miniato to

San Galgano




Highlights
• The pilgrim way
Follow in the footsteps of the pilgrims
who travelled the Via Francigena from
Northern Europe to Rome
• Etruscan heritage
Visit Volterra, city of the ancient
Etruscans, and discover the exquisite
art and culture of this civilization
• Ancient abbeys
Experience the solitude and majesty
of the pilgrim monasteries – Monte
Oliveto Maggiore and San Galgano
• City of culture
Explore beautiful Siena and marvel
at the medieval city’s masterful pre-
Renaissance art and architecture
• Rural idyll
Relax in the unspoilt countryside
of the Val di Merse, dotted with
sleepy agricultural hamlets



Inside the dramatic roofless nave of the
Abbey of San Galgano




BRNI_178-179_OpnDrv18.indd 179 27/10/11 6:04 PM

180 BACk ROAdS nORTheRn And CenTRAl iTAly

Sacred Paths

A thousand years ago pilgrims travelled across these lands on their way
to the holy city of Rome, bringing wealth to the churches, abbeys and
towns along the routes. This drive starts with the spires of San Miniato,
then meanders down the Roman Via Cassia to the monastery of San
Vivaldo and magnificent Volterra. The route leads to San Gimignano,
famed for its soaring towers and Vernaccia wine, and on to Siena, with its
spectacular cathedral and pilgrim hospital. Further south lie the abbey of
Monte Oliveto Maggiore, the woods of the Val di Merse and the soaring
buttresses of San Galgano.
Casenuove
Casenuove
Brusciana
Ponte Ponte Brusciana
Ponte a a Elsa a Elsa
Ponte a
Egola Egola SAN SAN Torrente Orme Montespertoli
Sant’Andrea
MINIA Sant’Andrea Montespertoli
MINIATOTO
Granaiolo
Torrente Orme
Granaiolo
Castelnuovo
Castelnuovo Cambiano
Cambiano
Case Nuove
d’Elsa Case Nuove
d’Elsa
Vallécchio
Bucciano Coiano Sala Sala Vallécchio
Bucciano
Coiano
Casastrada
Casastrada Dogana
Dogana
Voltigiano Lucardo
Voltigiano
Lucardo
CASTELFIORENTINO
CASTELFIORENTINO
Toiano Profeti
Toiano
Mura Mura Profeti Fiume Elsa
Fiume Elsa
Podere
Podere Varna Varna Cer Certaldotaldo
Strada
Strada Montaione
Montaione
Torrente Égolia
Torrente Égolia
Castelfal Gambassi Petrognano
Castelfal
Gambassi
Petrognano
Terme
THE HOL Terme
THE HOLY MOUNTY MOUNT
Spillocchi
OF OF SAN VIVALDOSAN VIVALDO Spillocchi
S. Martino
Iano Iano S. Martino
Ullignano
Ullignano
Bosco Tondo
Capanna Bosco Tondo Elsa Elsa
Capanna
Villamagna
Villamagna Camporbiano SAN SAN
Camporbiano
GIMIGNANO
Poggibonsiibonsi
la Gattaia GIMIGNANO Pogg
la Gattaia
COLLE DI
S. Donato
Spedaletto
Spedaletto S. Donato COLLE DI
VAL D’ELSA’ELSA
Above Rennaisance-style bust in an Borgatello VAL D Stággia Fonterútoli
Fonterútoli
Borgatello
Stággia
Prato d’Era
San Cipriano
alabaster workshop in Volterra, see p183 San Cipriano Prato d’Era Castél
Castél
Vagliagli
San Gimignano
San Gimignano Vagliagli
VOL VOLTERRATERRA Lornano
Lornano
Quercegrossa
MONTERIGGIONI
Quartáia MONTERIGGIONI Quercegrossa Pievasciata
Quartáia
Pievasciata
la Chiostra
Podere la
ACTIVITIES la Chiostra Podere la Strove Corsignano
Corsignano
Strove
Serra
Serra
TOSCANA
Saline di
Saline di Mazzolla TOSCANA Monte Mágg Pianella
Mazzolla
Monte Mággioio
Pianella
Volterra
Attend a summer concert at the Volterra Casa San Lorenzo Monte Soldano Paurano 671m 671m
Monte Soldano
Paurano
Casa San Lorenzo
monastery of San Vivaldo 556m 556m Cásole
Cásole
d’Elsa d’Elsa Montecagnano Guistrigona
Montecagnano
Guistrigona
Visit an alabaster workshop in Torrente Sallalte M o n t a g n o l a SIENA Monteaperti
SIENA
Torrente Sallalte
Monteaperti
Volterra – maybe even take a class Mensano Cetinale Torre a
Torre a
Mensano
Cetinale
Castillo
Podere Taverne Fiorentine Castillo
Podere
Fiorentine
Taverne
Monteguidi
Colloritto
Climb to the top of San Gimignano’s Monteguidi Colloritto Sovicille Sant’Andrea d’Arbia Vescona
M o n t a g n o l a
Sant’Andrea d’Arbia
Sovicille
Vescona
Tegóia
a Montecchio
Torre Grosso for spectacular views Tegóia a Montecchio Colle Colle Fontanelle
Fontanelle
Malignano
Malignano Ghetto Malamerenda
Malamerenda
Ghetto
Aeroporto diorto di
Casone
Witness the Palio horse race in Siena Casone Siena-A Aerop Ísola Ísola Pievina
Fiume Elsa
Fiume Elsa
Siena-Ampugnanompugnano
Pievina
GRANCIA
d’Arbia
with all its pomp and ceremony Rosia Rosia d’Arbia GRANCIA
DI CUNA
le Cetine TORRI DI CUNA Asciano
le Cetine
Asciano
TORRI
Pozzuolo
Bagnaia
Listen to atmospheric Gregorian Fiume Féccia Frósini Stigliano Bagnaia Radi Radi Mon Monteroni d’Árbiateroni d’Árbia Pozzuolo
Stigliano
chant at Monte Oliveto Maggiore Orgia Orgia Grotti Grotti Lucignano Montecontieri
Montecontieri
Fiume Féccia Frósini
Lucignano
Montalcinello d’Árbia la Canónica
Montalcinello
d’Árbia
la Canónica
Saltalfabbro
Ride a steam train from Buonconvento Castelletto Palazzina Curiano Torrente Árbia Saltalfabbro
Palazzina
Curiano
Castelletto
Chiusure
through the local countryside Bívio del Fiume Ombrone Fiume Ombrone Chiusure
Bívio del
Casino
Casino Madonnino Fiume Merse Fiume Merse Casanova
Madonnino
Torrente Árbia
Casanova
Ponte d’Árbia
MONTE OLIVETO
Cycle through the Val di Merse’s CHIUSDINO Ponte d’Árbia MONTE OLIVETO
Serravalle
Serravalle
CHIUSDINO
MAGGIORE
SAN GALGANO
pleasant woods and sleepy villages Ciciano SAN GALGANO Ponte Ponte Castelnuovo MAGGIORE
Castelnuovo
Ciciano
Macereto
Tancredi
Palazzetto Macereto Tancredi
Palazzetto
BUONCONVENTO
Monticiano BUONCONVENTO
Monticiano
Campopalazzi
Campopalazzi
Bibbiano
Bibbiano
BRNI_180-181_ItinDrive18.indd 180 02/09/14 2:08 PM

DRIVE 18: Sacred Paths 181

PLAN YOUR DRIVE
Start/finish: San Miniato to San
Galgano.
Number of days: 4–5, allowing for
half days in Volterra and Siena.
Distance: Approx 254 km (158 miles).
Road conditions: Generally well
signposted and well paved roads.
When to go: The area has good
conditions all year round. In spring
the landscape is lush; summer is more
Casenuove
Casenuove
Brusciana
Ponte Ponte Brusciana crowded and hot, but also has many
Ponte a a Elsa a Elsa festivals; autumn has truffle festivals.
Ponte a
Egola Egola SAN SAN Torrente Orme Montespertoli
Sant’Andrea
MINIATOTO
MINIA Sant’Andrea Montespertoli Opening times: Most shops are open
Granaiolo
Torrente Orme
Granaiolo 9am–1pm, then 4–8pm and closed
Castelnuovo
Castelnuovo Cambiano
Cambiano
Case Nuove
d’Elsa Case Nuove Sun and Mon mornings. In bigger
d’Elsa
Vallécchio
Bucciano
Bucciano Coiano Sala Sala Vallécchio cities, shops are often open over
Coiano
Casastrada Dogana Above View over the surrounding countryside from Torre Grosso, San Gimignano, see p184 lunch. Most museums are closed Mon.
Casastrada
Dogana
Voltigiano
Voltigiano Lucardo
Lucardo
CASTELFIORENTINO
CASTELFIORENTINO Churches tend to open 7am–12:30pm
Toiano Profeti and 4–7pm, but hours may vary.
Toiano
Mura Mura Profeti Fiume Elsa
Main market days: San Miniato and
Podere Varna Varna Cer Certaldotaldo
Podere
Fiume Elsa
Strada
Strada Montaione Monteroni d’Arbia: Tue;
Montaione
Torrente Égolia
Torrente Égolia
Castelfal Gambassi Petrognano Key Castelfiorentino, Volterra and
Castelfal
Gambassi
Petrognano
Terme
THE HOLY MOUNTY MOUNT
THE HOL Terme Buonconvento: Sat Chiusdino: Thu;
Spillocchi
OF OF SAN VIVALDOSAN VIVALDO Spillocchi Drive route Colle di Val d’Elsa and Siena: Fri.
S. Martino
Iano Iano S. Martino
Ullignano
Ullignano
Bosco Tondo
Capanna
Capanna Bosco Tondo Elsa Elsa Shopping: Volterra has shops selling
hand-carved alabaster. Colle di Val
Villamagna Camporbiano SAN SAN d’Elsa is famous for fine crystal. San
Villamagna
Camporbiano
GIMIGNANO
Poggibonsiibonsi
la Gattaia GIMIGNANO Pogg
la Gattaia
Gimignano is a good spot to stock up
COLLE DI
S. Donato
Spedaletto S. Donato COLLE DI on local Vernaccia DOP white wine.
Spedaletto
VAL D Fonterútoli 0 kilometres 8
VAL D’ELSA’ELSA
Fonterútoli
Borgatello
Stággia
Prato d’Era
San Cipriano Prato d’Era Borgatello Stággia Major festivals: San Miniato: Truffle
San Cipriano
Castél
Castél 0 miles 8 Fair, last 3 weekends of Nov; La Luna
Vagliagli
San Gimignano Vagliagli è Azzurra (children’s puppet festival)
San Gimignano
Lornano
VOL VOLTERRATERRA Lornano Jun; Kite Festival, 1st Sun after Easter;
Quercegrossa
MONTERIGGIONI
Quartáia
Quartáia MONTERIGGIONI Quercegrossa Pievasciata
Pievasciata
Podere la
la Chiostra Podere la Corsignano Monteriggioni: Medieval Festival, 1st
la Chiostra
Corsignano
Strove
Serra Serra Strove two weekends of Jul; Siena: Palio
TOSCANA
Saline di
Saline di Mazzolla TOSCANA Monte Mágg (medieval horse race), 2nd Jul & 16th
Mazzolla
Monte Mággioio
Pianella
Volterra 671m 671m Pianella
Volterra
Monte Soldano
Casa San Lorenzo Monte Soldano Paurano Aug; Buonconvento: Crete d’Autunno
Casa San Lorenzo
Paurano
556m
556m
Cásole (food festival) late Oct; Torri: Medieval
Cásole
d’Elsa d’Elsa Montecagnano Guistrigona Festival, May/Jun.
Montecagnano
Guistrigona
SIENA
SIENA
Monteaperti
Torrente Sallalte
Torrente Sallalte
Monteaperti
Torre a
Mensano Cetinale Torre a
Mensano
Cetinale
Castillo
Podere
Podere Fiorentine Castillo DAY tRIP OPtIONs
Fiorentine
Taverne
Monteguidi
Monteguidi Colloritto Taverne
Colloritto
Sant’Andrea d’Arbia
M o n t a g n o l a
M o n t a g n o l a
Sovicille
Vescona
Tegóia Sovicille Sant’Andrea d’Arbia Vescona
Tegóia
a Montecchio
a Montecchio
Fontanelle
Malignano
Malignano Ghetto Colle Colle Fontanelle Families will enjoy a day trip from
Malamerenda
Malamerenda
Ghetto
Aeroporto diorto di
Casone Aerop Ísola Ísola Volterra, clambering up towers and
Casone
Fiume Elsa
Fiume Elsa
Siena-A d’Arbia Pievina over a castle and well preserved city
Siena-Ampugnanompugnano
Pievina
d’Arbia
GRANCIA
Rosia Rosia GRANCIA
DI CUNA
le Cetine DI CUNA Asciano walls. Culture buffs will love Siena and
le Cetine
TORRI
Asciano
TORRI Bagnaia Mon Monteroni d’Árbiateroni d’Árbia Pozzuolo
Pozzuolo
Bagnaia
Stigliano
Stigliano Radi Radi the art of its Duomo and museums,
Orgia Orgia Grotti Grotti Lucignano Montecontieri as well as Monte Oliveto Maggiore‘s
Montecontieri
Fiume Féccia Frósini
Fiume Féccia Frósini
Lucignano
Montalcinello d’Árbia Saltalfabbro la Canónica abbey and Buonconvento’s religious
Montalcinello
d’Árbia
la Canónica
Saltalfabbro
Palazzina
Castelletto
Castelletto Palazzina Curiano Torrente Árbia art. For a country trip, head to the Val
Curiano
Chiusure
Bívio del
Bívio del Fiume Ombrone Fiume Ombrone Chiusure
Casino Madonnino Fiume Merse Fiume Merse di Merse from Siena for a hike/cycle
Casino
Madonnino
Torrente Árbia
Casanova
Casanova Ponte d’Árbia ride, then see an abbey and end at a
Ponte d’Árbia
MONTE OLIVETO
Serravalle
CHIUSDINO Serravalle MONTE OLIVETO hill town. For full details, see p187.
CHIUSDINO
MAGGIORE
MAGGIORE
SAN GALGANO
Castelnuovo
Ciciano
Ciciano SAN GALGANO Ponte Ponte Castelnuovo
Macereto
Tancredi
Palazzetto Macereto Tancredi
Palazzetto
BUONCONVENTO
Monticiano
Monticiano BUONCONVENTO
Campopalazzi
Campopalazzi
Bibbiano
Bibbiano
BRNI_180-181_ItinDrive18.indd 181 02/09/14 2:08 PM

182 BACK ROADS NORTHERN AND CENTRAL ITALY


1 San Miniato visited here. It’s also worth exploring
Pisa, Tuscany; 56027 the modern art museum BeGo (Via
Like a sentinel guarding the Via Testaferrata; www.museobenozzogozzoli.
Francigena, San Miniato’s 13th-century it), which has frescoes by the
Tower of Frederick (open daily) still 15th-century artist Benozzo Gozzoli.
dominates the Arno valley. The ª Head south on SS429, left towards
German Emperor Otto I built a castle Volterra, then right on the overpass
in San Miniato in AD 962, and the (SP4). Go straight over the roundabout,
town became the seat of imperial and on through Gambassi Terme. At
viceroys with jurisdiction over all of Spillocchi turn right for Montaione, then
Tuscany. The Duomo (open daily) is left at Via Pozzolo and left again at
Above Road winding through Volterra’s dedicated to the Virgin Mary and San Via Tre Ponti and into San Vivaldo.
fertile countryside Genesio. A mixture of Gothic and
Romanesque architecture, it has 3 The Holy Mount of San
VISITING SAN MINIATO majolica plates embedded in its Vivaldo
façade. The town is also famous for Montaione, Florence, Tuscany; 50050
Parking its highly prized white truffles. This extremely beautiful and rarely
There is parking in Piazza del Popolo ª From Piazza Buonaparte follow visited monastery (Apr–Oct 3–7pm
and Piazza della Repubblica. For long
stays, park in Piazza Dante Alghieri. signs to Via Fiancigena, then left daily, Sun from 10am; Nov–Mar 2–5pm
into Via Castelfiorentino. Fork right daily; www.sanvivaldointoscana.com) is
Tourist Information into Via Meleto to a large round- where the 14th-century hermit
Piazza del Popolo 56027; 0571 42745; about. Just before Castelfiorentino monk Vivaldo lived in a chestnut tree
www.sanminiatopromozione.it take first exit right then left and in the forest. Fra’ Tommaso da Firenze,
Buying and tasting truffles over the bridge. Park in Piazza on his return from the Holy Land,
The main street through San Miniato has John Fitzgerald Kennedy. replicated the holy sites in Jerusalem
several alimentari (delicatessens) that sell
white truffles. The butcher Macelleria in 25 stunning chapels (1500–16).
Falaschi Sergio (Via Augusto Conti 18) 2 Castelfiorentino The 18 that remain contain large
specializes in truffle salami. Florence, Tuscany; 50051 polychrome terracotta sculptures
Named after the castle that was built from the workshops of Giovanni
WHERE TO STAY
here on the Via Francigena (see p185), della Robbia and Benedetto Buglioni.
SAN MINIATO Castelfiorentino is laid out like a fan Concerts are staged here in summer
Miravalle inexpensive below the now crumbling fortress (Sun) – check monastery website.
An inviting hotel in the historic centre and the Chiesa di SS Ippolito and ª Head south on SP65, following signs
with a restaurant serving Tuscan cuisine. Biagio (1195). The Collegiata di Santa to Volterra. Drive most of the way
Piazzetta Del Castello 3, 56028; 0571 Verdiana in the lower town has a small through town, then turn sharp left up
419 904; www.albergomiravalle.com
museum celebrating the 12th-century Viale dei Ponti, then right for covered
AROUND CASTELFIORENTINO contemporary of St Francis who parking at Piazza Martiri della Libertà.
Le Boscarecce Country Inn inexpensive
A pleasant restored farmhouse with
rustic rooms, a garden with a pool and
a terrace (3 km/2 miles on the SP4).
Via Renai 19, 50051 (3 km/2 miles
north on SP4); 0571 61280;
www.leboscarecce.com
VOLTERRA
Hotel Villa Porta all’Arco inexpensive
This pleasant, converted 20th-century
villa is a short walk from the historic
centre, with friendly, helpful owners.
Via Mazzini 2, 56048; 0588 81487;
www.villaportallarco.it
La Locanda moderate
This small hotel, handily located in the
historic centre, has comfortable rooms.
Via Guarnacci 24/28, 56048; 058 881
547; www.hotel-lalocanda.com
Top left Porta all’Arco, an ancient entrance to
Volterra Top right Fresco at Collegiata di
Santa Verdiana, Castelfiorentino Right The
tower of Frederick rising above San Miniato




182-187_Back_Roads_Northern_Italy.indd 182 21/09/17 11:19 am
Back Roads LAYERS PRINTED:
Catalogue Spread template “UK” LAYER
(OpenType)
Date 02 November 2009
Size 145mm x 217mm
Fonts Bulletfont, Clearbullet,
Frutiger Pro, Myriad Pro, Travelfont

DRIVE 18: Sacred Paths 183



Teatro 0 meters 150
Romano
V.SAN FELICE VIA DEL MANDORLO V I A D E I S A R T I V I A G U A R N A C C I 0 yards 150
Pinacoteca
and Museo Civico
V. ROMA V. BUONPARENTI VIA DELLE PRIGIONI
Piazza
VIA RICCIARELLI
dei Priori
V I A F R AN CES CHI NI
Duomo VIA M ATTEOTTI V I A D I S O T T O
V . D P I E T R A I A
PIAZZA Palazzo
SAN GIOVANNI VIA TURAZZA dei Priori V I A G R A M S C I XX SETTEMBRE V I A D I P O R T A M A R C O L I
PIAZZA
VIA PORTA ALL’ARCO
Baptistry
PIAZZA MARTIRI
DELLA LIBERTÀ
Parco Archeologico Museo Etrusco V I A L E V I T TO R I O V E N E T O
Porta Enrico Flumi Guarnacci
V I A L E T R E N T O E T R I E S T E
all’Arco
Fortezza V I A D I C A S T E L L O
V I A D O N M I N Z O N I
Medicea
Porta a Selci
V I A L E D E I P O N T I
4 Volterra VISITING VOLTERRA
Pisa, Tuscany; 56048 Tourist Information
One of the 12 city-states of the Etruscan League, Volterra had Piazza dei Priori 20, 56048; 058 887
well-built walls and portals, and later, a Roman theatre. During the 257; www.volterratur.it
medieval period the town built its Duomo and fine civic buildings Alabaster workshops
and in the Renaissance the ruling Medici built a fort. Volterra is famous Visits to Volterra’s workshops can be
arranged at the tourist office. The Artists’
for its tradition of alabaster carving – look for the artist’s workshops. Co-operative (5 Piazza dei Priori) has an
excellent showroom, and the Alabaster
EcoMuseum (Piazza Minucci) has
A two-hour walking tour Romano 7. Retrace steps to Via dei interesting displays of tools,
From the car park, head southwest Sarti, proceed downhill, turning right techniques and alabaster sculptures.
and through Porta all’Arco 1, an into Via Matteotti, a vibrant shopping
Etruscan gate from the 3rd or 2nd street, and left into Via Gramsci, EAT AND DRINK
century BC. Continue up Via Porta which becomes Via Don Minzoni. The
all’Arco and turn left at Via del Museo Etrusco Guarnacci 8, one of SAN MINIATO
Marchesi to Piazza dei Priori Tuscany’s most important Pepenero expensive
2. To the left is the museums, has superb Chef Gilberto Rossi serves innovative
Palazzo dei Priori 3 examples of Etruscan ala- cuisine amid casual-chic décor under
(1254), the oldest town baster work. Don’t miss brick arches in the centre of town.
Via IV Novembre 13, 56028; 0571 419
hall in Tuscany with tera- the Funeral Urn of the 523; www.pepenerocucina.it;
cotta shields of the Married Couple and the closed Tue & lunch Sat
Florentine rulers of the modern-looking statu- AROUND CASTELFIORENTINO
15th century. Turn down ette Evening Shadow. At Il Cigliere Del Rustico expensive
Via Turazza to Piazza San Rondel in the style of the street end is the 16th- This family-friendly restaurant serves
Giovanni and the Duomo Luca della Robbia century Porta a Selci 9. good Tuscan home cooking – 6 km
4, dedicated to Santa Retrace steps and turn left (4 miles) from town, just off the road.
Maria. Founded in the 9th century, up Via di Castello. Immediately ahead Via Onofrio Di Paolo 24, 50051; 0571
and reconstructed after an earthquake is the Fortezza Medicea 0, in two 582 154; www.ciglieredelrustico.it;
open Sat eve Jul–Aug, Sun lunch Sep–
in the 12th century, the church has a parts. The later building was added by Dec & Mar–Jun
Romanesque façade by Nicola Pisano. Medici ruler Lorenzo il Magnifico to
Directly in front of the Duomo is the house criminals, and it is still used as a VOLTERRA
eight-sided Baptistry 5, built on the prison. Continue to the Parco Del Duca moderate
site of a pagan temple. Pass the loggia Archeologico Enrico Fiumi q (summer: A refined restaurant where guests are
made to feel very welcome. Great food,
of the founding hospital and turn right 8:30am–8pm; winter: 8:30am–5pm), the excellent wines and superb ambience.
into Via Roma and Via Buonparenti. site of the ancient acropolis. Descend Via Di Castello 2, 56048; 0588 81510;
In Via dei Sarti, the Pinacoteca and the stairs to the northwest into Via www.enoteca-delduca-ristorante.it;
Museo Civico 6 (open daily) is worth dei Marchesi and head left, back to closed Tue
a visit to see Fiorentino’s Mannerist Piazza Martiri della Libertà. Osteria La Pace moderate
masterpiece, The Deposition (1521). ª Leave on SS68 east. Turn left at SP47. This is a small but lively restaurant in
Turn into Passo del Gralduccio in At the roundabout, take the 3rd exit the historic centre. Try the home-made
Plazza Minucci, then right for excel- onto SP1, go around Piazzale Martiri tagliatelle with truffle, or grilled meats.
Via Don Minzoni 49, 56048; 0588 86511;
lent view of the 1st-century Teatro Montemaggio and park in Via dei Foss. www.osterialapace.com
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate €25–€45; expensive over €45
182-187_Back_Roads_Northern_Italy.indd 183 06/11/17 5:36 pm

184 BACK ROADS NORTHERN AND CENTRAL ITALY


Right The Romanesque Church of Santa Maria
Assunta, Monteriggioni Centre right Brightly
coloured ceramic wares for sale in Siena
Far right The multi-towered medieval town
of San Gimignano Below The Chiostro Grande
in the Monte Oliveto Maggiore Abbey

WHERE TO STAY
SAN GIMIGNANO
Hotel Relais Santa Chiara moderate
This modern and comfortable hotel is
within easy walking distance of the
town, with parking, pool and gardens.
Via Matteotti 15, 53037; 0577 940 701;
www.rsc.it 5 San Gimignano papermaking industry to flourish, but
Hotel Leon Bianco moderate Siena, Tuscany; 53037 it was glassmaking, particularly fine
Right in the centre of San Gimignano, From far away, San Gimignano’s crystal, that gave it wider fame. From
this good-value three-star hotel has medieval towers – 14 of the original Colle “bassa”, take the elevator up to
elegant rooms and a breakfast terrace. 72 remain – are a visible sign of the the castello, the oldest part of the
Piazza Cisterna, 53037; 0577 941 294;
www.leonbianco.com prosperity brought by the Via town, near the tower-house where
Francigena (see box). Don’t miss the 13th-century sculptor and architect
La Collegiata expensive Collegiata di Santa Maria Assunta Arnolfo di Cambio was born. From
This stunning 17th-century converted
monastery offers stylish luxury less than (open daily; closed Feb), consecrated in here, it’s a pleasant walk to the west
2 km (1 mile) from the historic centre. 1148, with an interior decorated in the and the impressive twin bulwarks of
Localitá Strada 27, 53037; 0577 943 15th century by artists such as Benozzo the Porta Nova.
201; www.lacollegiata.it Gozzoli. Climb the 218 steps to view ª Exit the car park turning right
COLLE DI VAL D’ELSA the splendid panorama from the and continue until left turn at Via
Relais Della Rovere expensive tallest tower, Torre Grosso (open daily). XXV Aprile. Continue onto SP5, over
Pope Julius II built this villa just outside The San Gimignano1300 (Via the autostrada, then right on SR2
the town next to the monastery. Well- Berignano 23; open daily) is a museum towards Siena; turn left into
restored, it has elegant rooms. whose main exhibit is a scale model Monteriggioni and car park.
Via Piemonte 10, 53034; 0577 924 696; of the town in the year 1300.
www.relaisdellarovere.it
ª Follow signs to Colle di Val d’Elsa. 7 Monteriggioni
MONTERIGGIONI At the 2nd roundabout, turn left into Siena, Tuscany; 53035
La Canonica di San Michele moderate Via Armando Diaz/SS541. Follow signs A rare example of a garrison town with
This restored 13th-century villa has for “P-ascensore” in Via di Fontibona. an intact circle of walls, Monteriggioni
retained many original features and is Use the free parking and lift. safeguarded the Via Francigena and
set in an area of pristine natural beauty.
Strada di Fungaia 11, 53035; 0577 317 Siena’s gateway to the Val d’Elsa.
514; www.lacanonicadisanmichele.com 6 Colle di Val d’Elsa Fourteen towers guard a mere 570 m
Siena, Tuscany; 53034 (1,870 ft) of walls, crowning a gentle
SIENA AND AROUND This historic town is split into two rise in the valley. Enter Porta Franca o
La Grotta di Montecchino inexpensive sections, with Colle “alta” overlooking Romea into Piazza Roma and visit the
These self-catering farmhouse
apartments, 2 km (1 mile) west of Siena, the lively Colle “bassa”. The town’s simple, 13th-century Romanesque
offer simple, rustic comfort with a location on the River Elsa enabled a Church of Santa Maria Assunta, first
barbeque and pool – good for families. mentioned in the 7th century.
Strada Grossetana 87, Sant’Andrea a ª Follow signs for Autostrada
Montecchio, 53010; 0577 394 250; Firenze-Siena towards Siena. Take
www.montecchino.it
Siena Sud exit. Turn right on SP6, then
Palazzo Fani Mignanelli moderate second left at Via di Tuli. Drive through
Superbly located in the historic centre,
this swish residence offers spacious, Park dei Tuli and right into the Via
good-value junior suites. Fontanella car park. Follow signs for
Via Banchi di Sopra 15, 53100; 0577 Piazza il Campo on foot.
283 566; www.residenzadepoca.it
Certosa di Maggiano expensive 8 Siena
The epitome of luxury, this 14th-century Siena, Tuscany; 53100
converted Carthusian monastery, on Many branches of the Via Francigena
the southeast edge of town, has
everything – including a helipad. converged on Siena and perhaps no
Strada di Certosa 82, 53100; 0577 288 other city owes so much of its heritage
180; www.certosadimaggiano.com to the pilgrim way. It is said that in


182-187_Back_Roads_Northern_Italy.indd 184 21/09/17 11:19 am
Back Roads LAYERS PRINTED:
Catalogue Spread template “UK” LAYER
(OpenType)
Date 02 November 2009
Size 145mm x 217mm
Fonts Bulletfont, Clearbullet,
Frutiger Pro, Myriad Pro, Travelfont

DRIVE 18: Sacred Paths 185


complex of Santa Maria della Scala SIENESE PANFORTE
(open daily), dating from 1090, was the First recorded in the 1300s, panforte,
biggest pilgrim hospice and was richly (strong bread) is a rich, chewy mix of
endowed by the city of Siena. Today, flour, almonds, egg white and honey,
it is a cultural institute, gallery and with dried fruit and candied oranges.
It provided sustenance for pilgrims and
underground archaeological has become the signature fare of Siena.
museum. Its most important exhibit It is available in many shops in the city.
is the fresco cycle in the Sala del
Pellegrinaio, which provides amazing EAT AND DRINK
detail of both hospital and pilgrim SAN GIMIGNANO
life in the 14th century. Trattoria Chiribiri inexpensive
ª Return to Tangenziale Siena Ovest. Serves traditional Tuscan food. Try the
Head south onto the ramp, following coniglio ripieno (rabbit stuffed with
signs to Arezzo and merge onto SS223 meat and vegetables).
then right again to Arezzo. Merge onto Piazza della Madonna 1, 53037; 0577
1288, the city contained as many as E78/SS73. Take exit for Taverne D’Arbia, 941 948; www.ristorantechiribiri.it;
closed Wed
90 hotels. Travellers entered through onto SS438 to Asciano, then turn right
Porta Camollia to the north and Porta onto SS451 and follow signs to Monte MONTERIGGIONI
Romana to the south – the latter being Oliveto Maggiore and car park. Il Pozzo moderate–expensive
especially magnificent to welcome Dine inside or alfresco at this central
those from the papal city. Il Campo, Tuscan restaurant – try the steak
Fiorentina with porcini mushrooms.
the central square, is one of the most Piazza Roma 2, 53035; 0577 304 127;
famous in Italy and the location of www.ilpozzo.net; closed Sun eve & Mon
the dramatic horse race, the Palio. SIENA
The huge Torre del Mangia and the
14th-century Palazzo Pubblico (open Zest inexpensive
A quick and tasty lunch-stop, this bar
daily) form the apex of the fan-shaped also offer a good choice of wines.
square, with nine segments of herring- Costa di Sant’ Antonio 13, 53100; 0577
bone paving spreading out in front. 47139; www.zestsiena.com
The Duomo, Santa Maria Assunta Antica Trattoria Papei moderate
(open daily), completed in 1215, is a Just behind the Torre del Mangia. Serves
masterpiece of Tuscan Gothic. The traditional Sienese fare such as pici al
beautiful interior includes inlaid cinghiale (pasta with wild boar sauce).
marble floors, black-and-white Via del Mercato, 6, 53100; 0577 280
894; www.anticatrattoriapapei.com
banded marble pillars and carvings
and sculptures by major medieval MONTE OLIVETO MAGGIORE
and Renaissance artists, including Above Fresco from the Piccolomini Library at Trattoria La Torre inexpensive
some early works by Michelangelo. Santa Maria Assunta, Siena Located within the abbey complex, this
osteria serves typical Tuscan cuisine. Try
One highlight is the 15th-century the ribollita soup and pecorino cheeses.
Piccolomini Library, with paintings by 9 Monte Oliveto Maggiore Loc. Chiusure, 53041; 0577 707 022;
Pinturicchio of episodes from the life Siena, Tuscany 53041 closed Tue
of Pope Pius II, founder of Pienza. Surrounded by a serried array of
Opposite, the Museum and Art cypress trees and accessed by a small Below Steps leading into Santa Maria
drawbridge, the Benedictine abbey Assunta, Siena’s stunning cathedral
Pilgrims’ Way Monte Oliveto Maggiore (open daily)
The medieval Church encouraged is still an active monastery. The main
people to make pilgrimages to church is noted for its intricately carved
holy places such as Rome. It was wooden choir stalls and inlays. The
believed that if you prayed at these library is of immense historical
shrines, you might be forgiven for importance, but access is limited. The
your sins and have more chance of
going to heaven. Many travelled Chiostro Grande is the main attraction,
to Rome from France, so these illuminated by frescoes about the life
pilgrim routes were known as of St Benedict created by Luca
the Via Francigena. Sigeric the Signorelli in 1497 and Antonio Bazzi
Serious, Archbishop of Canterbury (called “Sodoma”) in 1505. Another
(AD 990–994) kept a diary on his highlight is the atmospheric
trip, detailing the stages. The work
was copied many times and Gregorian chant (6:15pm daily).
distributed widely, thus becoming ª Exit the monastery, turn left at
one of the first travel guidebooks. SS451 to Buonconvento. There is
ample parking by the walls.
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€45; expensive, over €45


182-187_Back_Roads_Northern_Italy.indd 185 21/09/17 11:19 am

186 BACK ROADS NORTHERN AND CENTRAL ITALY


Right Chiusdino, a beautiful Tuscan hill
town overlooking the Val di Merse Below
left Clock on the medieval town hall,
Buonconvento Below right Attractive
street in Buonconvento











CYCLING IN VAL DI MERSE
Biking holiday
Offering woodland trails and relatively
quiet roads, Val di Merse is ideal terrain
for biking. The tourism website Terra
di Siena (www.terresiena.it/en/bici)
has route maps for the area.

WHERE TO STAY
BUONCONVENTO
Podere Salicotto Country Hotel 0 Buonconvento for their estates. The 14th-century
moderate Siena, Tuscany; 53022 centre of the grancia is still intact, with a
This farmstay puts the emphasis on Set on a flat, fertile plain, Buonconvento courtyard and winding internal ramps
luxurious comfort with “Bed and Brunch” was always vulnerable to attack. After that enabled mules to carry their loads
(for late risers) and a swimming pool. the Sienese defeated Emperor Henry to the storage rooms above what are
Strada Prov. le Pieve a Salti, Loc.
Salicotti 73, 53022; 0577 809 087; VII in 1313, they built imposing walls, now private dwellings. To the left of
www.poderesalicotto.com securing this important stop on the the entrance is a 1314 church dedi-
Via Francigena. The pleasant centro cated to James and Christopher, the
AROUND GRANCIA DI CUNA storico is home to the Museo d’Arte patron saints of pilgrimage and travel.
Agriturismo San Giorgio inexpensive Sacra (closed Wed in summer, weekdays ª Return to Via Cassia and turn right.
This farm stay has four apartments and
also offers B&B. Set in a quiet location in winter), which has a fine collection At the roundabout turn right to
with comfy rooms and good breakfasts. of religious art. Also worth a visit is bypass the town and right at Via 4
Strada provinciale di Radi, Loc. Colle the Museo della Mezzadria Senese Novembre/SP23 signposted Castello
Malamerenda, 53014; 0577 378 147; (open 10am–1pm Tue–Sun, also 3–6pm di Grotti, then turn left for Bagnaia.
www.san-giorgio.net
Sat & Sun), an evocative display of Then turn right and left onto SP99 for
TORRI AND AROUND farming history in the region. Steam Torri. Park in Piazza Borgo.
Antico Borgo di Torri inexpensive buffs will enjoy the Nature Train
This small, family-run B&B in the centre (www.terresiena.it) that puffs from town w Torri
of Torri offers comfortable rooms to town in the area on special days. Sovicille, Siena, Tuscany; 53018
decorated in a rustic, country style. ª Head north on SR2 towards Siena. The Val di Merse is a wooded area,
Vicolo delle Cantine 1, Loc. Torri, Sovicille;
0577 345 669; www.borgoditorri.it Take exit Monteroni d’Arbia Nord, turn southwest of Siena, dotted with
left at Strada Statale Cassia/SR2 intriguing medieval villages such
Villa Ferraia expensive (south) then right onto Via Comunale. as Orgia, Stigliano and Torri, whose
This superb environmental leisure centre
offers simple but stylish rooms as well Park in Piazza della Grancia. old mills and huge granaries attest
as an organic vegetable garden, farm to the fertility of the land. Next to
and astronomical observatory. q Grancia di Cuna Torri’s church is the impressive
Pod. La Ripa, Loc. Tocchi 53015 Siena, Tuscany; 53014 11th-century Benedictine Abbey
Monticiano; 0577 757 102;
www.villaferraia.com This huge structure close to Monteroni (open 9am–noon Mon & Fri), now
d’Arbia is a medieval grancia, or privately owned. The abbey’s
AROUND CHIUSDINO fortified farm. Once a hostel providing beautiful cloister is regarded as one
Podere Santa Maria moderate shelter for pilgrims, it was taken over of the finest in Tuscany. It was built
Set in walnut forests and olive groves, in the 13th century by Siena’s Santa around a brick parquet courtyard in
this farm stay has apartments and
rooms with weekly and nightly rates. Maria della Scala Hospital, who, over three elegant tiers – marble, brick
Loc. Cucinato, Ciciano, Chiusdino; 347 the years, redeveloped it substantially, and wood – in the 12th, 14th and
193 7052; www.poderedisantamaria.it turning it into an administrative centre 15th centuries respectively. Note
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €100; moderate, €100–€200; expensive, over €200
182-187_Back_Roads_Northern_Italy.indd 186 06/11/17 5:30 pm
Back Roads LAYERS PRINTED:
Catalogue Spread template “UK” LAYER
(OpenType)
Date 02 November 2009
Size 145mm x 217mm
Fonts Bulletfont, Clearbullet,
Frutiger Pro, Myriad Pro, Travelfont

DRIVE 18: Sacred Paths 187


Pope Pius II’s (1405–64) family coat of
arms – Piccolomini – over the doors.
ª Return to SP99, turn left and left
again on SP73bis (Massa Marittima). A
little way after passing Frosini turn right
on Strada Provinciale di Chiusdino/
SP31. Park in Piazza Giacomo Matteotti.
e Chiusdino
Siena, Tuscany; 53012
The hill town of Chiusdino lies
between the Colline Metallifere Above left Chapel built at the birthplace of
(Metalliferous Hills) and the gentle Val with a vaulted chapterhouse. On San Galgano, Chiusdino Above right The
di Merse, both areas of great natural the hill above is the 12th-century sleepy hamlet of Stigliano in the Val di Merse
beauty. The historic centre is a Hermitage of Montesiepi. Its simple
medieval warren of steep, narrow style is offset by a superb banded EAT AND DRINK
lanes. San Galgano was born here into brick and stone cupola, and by St SAN GALGANO
a noble family in 1148. Instead of Galgano’s sword in the stone (thought Salendo inexpensive
following a knight’s life, he plunged by some to be the source of elements This wine bar with a terrace is on the
his sword into a rock and became a of Britain’s Arthurian legend). Although road up to the Hermitage of Montesiepi,
hermit. The Chapel of Compagnia has the abbey flourished for several and offers typical local produce.
ViaPalazzetto 172, 53012; 0577 756
a bas-relief (1466) of the sword in the centuries, it was all but abandoned by 270; closed Mon
stone and San Galgano’s house (open 1600, and in 1786 its roof collapsed.
daily) is now a chapel with a banded In summer, it becomes a magical AROUND GRANCIA DI CUNA
brick façade and a 13th-century relief setting for occasional open-air operas. La Galera inexpensive
– a copy – by Giovanni di Agostino. This bar-restaurant specializes in
grilled meats, seafood and pizza.
The original is in the Casa Parrocchiale Via Roma 193, 53014; 0577 374 024;
along with a Madonna and Child by www.lagalerapubristorantepizzeria.
Niccolò di Segna of 1336. com; closed Mon
ª Exit on Via Piave/SP31, then fork AROUND TORRI
left on the Strada Comunale di Le Dal Cateni a Orgia
Vene. Turn left on Strada Provinciale A fine restaurant in Orgia, this serves
Massetana/SS441. Turn right into the excellent food – try the pasta with wild
abbey and follow signs to parking. boar and the pine kernel tart for dessert.
Via dei Pratini 19, CAP 53018, Loc.
r San Galgano Orgia; 0577 342 028;
www.dalcateniaorgia.it; closed Wed
Siena, Tuscany; 53012
One of the most striking and poignant CHIUSDINO
monuments in Tuscany is the roofless, La Grotta di Tiburzi inexpensive
ruined Abbey of San Galgano. It was A classic Tuscan kitchen with generous
servings of cheeses, salami and crostini,
built by Cistercian monks in the 13th plus delicious pasta with white truffles.
century in a fusion of French-Gothic Above Inside the peaceful and poignant ruins of Via Paolo Mascagni 15, 53012;
and Romanesque architectural styles, the Abbey of San Galgano 0577 752 948; closed Wed
DAY TRIP OPTIONS Follow the instructions in the drive and The Val di Merse
Volterra and Siena are great bases for return the same way. Pick up a picnic in Siena 8, then
day trips. Kids will love climbing over head to Torri w and the Val di Merse.
walls and towers. Adults will enjoy Pre-Renaissance art Enjoy a hike or cycle ride, stopping
the art that bridged the gap In Siena 8, spend the morning for lunch. Afterwards, learn about the
between medieval and Renaissance exploring the art and architecture of sword in the stone legend by driving
Italy. Everyone will enjoy the scenery. the great city. Pick up a picnic and on to San Galgano r. Finish the day
head for the frescoes of Monte with a drink in Chiusdino e, which
Towers, Castles and Walls Oliveto Maggiore 9, followed by looks out on the pristine countryside.
From Volterra 4, drive to the towers the religious art of Buonconvento
of San Gimignano 5 and climb up 0. Return via Grancia di Cuna q. Take Via Roma to SR2, then head north
the Torre Grosso’s 218 steps. Stop off on “tangenziale” to take SP73bis. Turn
at the castle at Colle di Val d’Elsa 6 Follow the drive instructions to Grancia left for Torri at Rosia. Return to SP73bis,
for lunch and head on to the di Cuna, then head for the SR2 and Via then SS441 for San Galgano and
garrison town of Monteriggioni 7. Roma back to Siena. Chiusdino. Return the same way.

Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€45; expensive, over €45


182-187_Back_Roads_Northern_Italy.indd 187 21/09/17 11:19 am

BRNI_188-189_OpnDrv19.indd 188 27/10/11 6:05 PM
Back Roads LAYERS PRINTED:
Section opener template “UK” LAYER
(OpenType)
Date 02 November 2009
Size 145mm x 217mm
Font Myriad Pro

DRIVE 19





Milan
Turin Venice
IT AL Y
Genoa Bologna
Florence
Perugia
Rome



In the Shadow

of a Volcano


Castiglione

d’Orcia to San

Casciano dei

Bagni




Highlights
• Natural beauty
Walk in the pristine chestnut forests
that cloak Monte Amiata’s hillsides and
head up to the clean air at the summit
for glorious countryside views
• Mountain villages
Explore the pretty medieval villages
that ring the mountain, whose forts
and simple stone buildings reflect
the tough ancient way of life
• Mountain spa
Relax in a natural hot spring, gushing
down a limestone waterfall in a forest
glade or soak in a sulphurous, smelly
but good-for-you mud pack


Man living in harmony with nature –
a classic view of the Val d’Orcia




BRNI_188-189_OpnDrv19.indd 189 27/10/11 6:05 PM

190 BACK ROADS NORThERN AND CENTRAl ITAly

In the Shadow of a Volcano

Italy’s largest extinct volcano, Monte Amiata, dominates the horizon of much
of southern Tuscany. It has been important in other ways, too. The mountain’s
woods provided lumber for Etruscan ships, its heights were a sanctuary for
medieval monks and its depths give up minerals for the modern age. This
drive takes in a ring of villages around the foot of the volcano, each with its
own culture and appeal. Visitors can enjoy the relaxing properties of ancient
thermal springs, hike up slopes cloaked with rich chestnut and oak forests
– teeming with game and forest fare – enjoy the respite from
the heat Amiata offers in summer, or even indulge
in exciting winter sports when it snows. Rocca d
Rocca d’Orcia’Orcia
CASTIGLIONE D
CASTIGLIONE D’ORCIA’ORCIA


Poder
Podere Ferrie Ferri
Pogg Poggiaia
Rosa Rosa Pógg Póggio Uccelloio Uccello
694m 694m
Madonna
Madonna
Oster Osteriaia della Q
della Querceuerce
Ansidónia
Ansidónia
Leccino
Leccino
Casa P
Casa Póggioóggio
Fatt Fattoriaoria Torrente Formone Torrente Formone Bandinelli
Bandinelli
Campíglia
Casac Casaccece Campíglia
d’Ór d’Órciacia
Pogg Poggioferroioferro Vivo d
Vivo d’Órcia’Órcia
Segg Seggianoiano BAGNI
BAGNI
SAN FILIPPO
SAN FILIPPO
Altor Altoree
le Conie
Casanovava
Pescina
Pescina le Conie Casano
TOSCANA
TOSCANA
Mon Montegiovitegiovi le Chia
le Chiavivi
Pogg Poggiolungoiolungo
Zaccariaia
Léccio
Léccio Zaccar Monte Calcináio
Monte Calcináio
Above The crumbling remains of the castello, Case R 732m 732m
Case Rosseosse
Prat
Prato delleo delle
Castiglione d’Orcia, see p192 le M le Macináieacináie Torrente Pagliola
RADICOFANIOFANI
le Ripe
Torrente Pagliola
la Palazzina
CASTEL
CASTEL SUMMIT OF A RADIC la Palazzina le Ripe
SUMMIT OF AMIATAMIATA
DEL PIANO
DEL PIANO
MONTELA
MONTELATERONETERONE
Torrente Rigo
ABBADIA
San L San Lorenzoorenzo ABBADIA Torrente Rigo
SAN SAL Pógg Póggio Leanoio Leano l’Aiale
SAN SALVATOREVATORE
l’Aiale
ARCIDOSSO Oasi Monte 633m 633m SAN C
ARCIDOSSO
Oasi Monte
SAN CASCIANOASCIANO
ACTIVITIES Bag Bagnolinoli Amiata Celle sul R DEI BA
DEI BAGNIGNI
Amiata
Celle sul Rigoigo
Casa del
Pógg Póggio Trauzzoloio Trauzzolo Fiume Páglia Casa del Sarti
Sarti
1200m
PIANCASTAGNÁIOASTAGNÁIO
Get up the mountain under your own steam Aiuole 1200m PIANC
Aiuole
Fiume Páglia
on a mountain bike, or let a horse do the work Quar Quarantaanta
Bág Bágnorenore
Lag
Lago dio di
Soothe those aching limbs with a mud Fágg Fággiaia la No la Novellavella Pógg Póggio Cornoio Corno 528m San Casciano
528m
San Casciano
massage or sulphuric sauna at a spa in San Bag Bagnolonolo Tre C Tre Casease
SANTA FIORAA FIORA
Casciano dei Bagni or Bagni San Filippo SANT Mar Marronetoroneto Sarag
Saragioloiolo
Walk in the forest along gentle mountainside
trails beneath chestnut, oak and beech trees
Ski down Monte Amiata at speed in winter
on its snow-covered ski slopes Key
Drive route
Enjoy a taste of medieval beer with Monte
Amiata’s local brews
Tour a mining museum on a narrow-gauge
train at Abbadia San Salvatore
BRNI_190-191_ItinDrive19.indd 190 02/09/14 2:08 PM

DRIVE 19: In the Shadow of a Volcano 191

PLAN YOUR DRIVE

Start/finish: Castiglione d’Orcia to
San Casciano dei Bagni.
Number of days: 2–3 days.
Distance: 117 km (73 miles).
Road conditions: Generally good
road surfaces with good signposting.
A little isolated in parts. During Dec–
Mar, roads can be icy and chains are
obligatory in mountain areas.
Rocca d
Rocca d’Orcia’Orcia
When to go: Mar–Nov is the best time.
CASTIGLIONE D Aug is a peak season as holiday-makers
CASTIGLIONE D’ORCIA’ORCIA
escape the heat of the plain.
Opening times: Major museums are
open 8:30am–7:30pm and closed Mon.
Podere Ferrie Ferri
Poder Small museums often only open on
Above Pageantry and colour in the medieval heart of Piancastagnaio, see p193 Below Classic
Pogg Poggiaia weekends outside summer. Churches
Rosa Rosa Pógg Póggio Uccelloio Uccello Tuscan landscape, seen from Castiglione d’Orcia, see p192 are generally open 7:30am–noon and
694m 694m
Madonna 3–7:30pm. Shops open 10am–1pm and
Madonna
Oster Osteriaia della Q
della Querceuerce
Ansidónia
Ansidónia 4–8pm and close Sun & Mon mornings.
Leccino Main market days: Castiglione d’Orcia:
Leccino
Casa Póggioóggio
Casa P Tue; Castel del Piano: Wed; Arcidosso:
Fatt Fattoriaoria Torrente Formone Torrente Formone Bandinelli
Bandinelli
Campíglia
Casac Casaccece Campíglia 0 kilometres 3 Tue; Santa Fiora: 2nd Thu; Piancastagnaio:
d’Ór d’Órciacia
Sat; Abbadia San Salvatore: Thu;
Pogg Poggioferroioferro Vivo d 0 miles 3 Radicofani: 2nd & 4th Mon; San
Vivo d’Órcia’Órcia
Segg Seggianoiano BAGNI Casciano dei Bagni: 1st & 3rd Thu.
BAGNI
SAN FILIPPO
SAN FILIPPO
Altor Altoree Shopping: Wooden handicrafts from
Casanovava
le Conie
Pescina le Conie Casano
Pescina
TOSCANA Amiata’s forests and organic preserves.
TOSCANA
Mon Montegiovitegiovi le Chia
le Chiavivi
Pogg Poggiolungoiolungo Major festivals: Castiglione d’Orcia:
Zaccariaia
Léccio
Léccio Zaccar Monte Calcináio
Monte Calcináio
732m 732m spring market, 1st weekend Apr; Castel
Case R
Case Rosseosse
Prat Prato delleo delle del Piano: Palio (medieval horse race),
le M le Macináieacináie Torrente Pagliola Sep; Montelaterone: La Festa della
RADICOFANIOFANI
Torrente Pagliola
la Palazzina
le Ripe
CASTEL
CASTEL SUMMIT OF A RADIC la Palazzina le Ripe Pina (spring festival), Apr; Arcidosso:
SUMMIT OF AMIATAMIATA
DEL PIANO
DEL PIANO
MONTELA Sagra Della Patata Macchiaiola (potato
MONTELATERONETERONE
Torrente Rigo
ABBADIA
San L San Lorenzoorenzo ABBADIA Torrente Rigo festival), 3rd weekend Aug; Santa Fiora
SAN SAL Pógg Póggio Leanoio Leano l’Aiale & Piancastagnaio: chestnut festival,
SAN SALVATOREVATORE
l’Aiale
Oasi Monte
ARCIDOSSO
ARCIDOSSO Oasi Monte 633m 633m SAN C late Oct; Radicofani: Antichi Mestieri
SAN CASCIANOASCIANO
Bag Bagnolinoli
DEI BAGNIGNI
Amiata Casa del Celle sul R DEI BA (old traditions), 1st weekend Jun;
Amiata
Celle sul Rigoigo
Casa del
Pógg Póggio Trauzzoloio Trauzzolo Fiume Páglia Sarti Sarti
1200m San Casciano dei Bagni: Festa del
1200m
PIANCASTAGNÁIOASTAGNÁIO
Aiuole
Aiuole PIANC Ciaffagnone (pancake festival), 2nd
Fiume Páglia
Bág Bágnorenore Quar Quarantaanta & 3rd weekend of Jun.
Fágg Fággiaia Pógg Póggio Cornoio Corno Lag Lago dio di
la No la Novellavella 528m 528m San Casciano
San Casciano
Bag Bagnolonolo Tre C Tre Casease DAY tRIP OPtIONs
SANT Mar Marronetoroneto Sarag
SANTA FIORAA FIORA
Saragioloiolo
Although the distances aren’t great,
mountain roads can be winding, so
don’t try to do too much on a day
trip. Gourmets can enjoy the famous
Amiata produce – chestnuts, salami
and locally brewed beer – taking in the
fine views on the way. Families with
young children will find them intrigued
by the history behind the area’s many
castles, forts and walled medieval
towns. For full details, see p195.
BRNI_190-191_ItinDrive19.indd 191 02/09/14 2:08 PM

192 BACK ROADS NORTHERN AND CENTRAL ITALY


1 Castiglione d’Orcia 3 Montelaterone
Siena, Toscana; 53023 Grosseto, Toscana; 58031
Only a few ruins on a hill remain of Founded around AD 1000, this is one
the fortress that once controlled the of the oldest settlements in the area,
nearby ancient byway, the Via Cassia. with the inner of the two town walls
The heart of the town, built on the dating from the 11th century. Later,
hillside below the fort, is Piazza il from the early 1200s, the town came
Vecchietta, a sloping cobbled square under the protection of mighty Siena.
with a travertine fountain (1618) and Winding streets and vaulted walkways
the town hall which contains a fresco offer an intriguing climb to the ruined
removed from the original fortress. 13th-century keep, Cassero Senese.
From the town centre, take the The Palazzo Pretorio (town hall) from
steep Via della Rocca to the next-door the same period is decorated with
village, Rocca d’Orcia, with a much the coats of arms of Renaissance-era
better preserved bastion, Rocca di families. On the road to Arcidosso
Tentennano (Apr–Oct: open daily; Nov– stands the 9th-century Romanesque
Mar: Sat & Sun), and spectacular views church La Pieve di Lamula, largely
of Mt Amiata and the Val d’Orcia. reconstructed in the 12th century.
Above The Peschiera, Santa Fiora, built to supply ª Drive south along SS323 past Poggia ª Return to SP26 and head south to
trout to the Aldobrandeschi court Rosa, then left at SP160, continue past Arcidosso. On arrival, turn left up Via
Seggiano to Castel del Piano. Park at Roma to Piazza Indipendenza and
VISITING MONTE AMIATA Piazza Giuseppe Garibaldi. park on Corso Toscana.
Getting to Castiglione d’Orcia
From A1 Autostrada Rome-Florence, 2 Castel del Piano Mountain chestnuts
exit at Chiusi-Chianciano Terme towards Grosseto, Toscana; 58033
Chianciano. Take SS146, then SP53. Historically, mountain villagers relied
Turn left at SR2, then right at SS323. Sitting on the slopes of Mt Amiata, upon the chestnut for survival during
Continue to Castiglione d’Orcia, turning Castel del Piano has been inhabited hard times. In autumn, they would
left at SS323, then left up Via Del Fosso. since the Paleolithic era, but up until collect the chestnuts, dry them, then
grind them into flour used to make a
Tourist Information the 14th century, it was a stronghold type of bread. Once poor man’s food,
Castiglione d’Orcia: Viale Guglielmo of the Aldobrandeschi family. Spread the flour is now used to make a rich
Marconi 13, 53023; 0577 887 363; across the slopes, the modern part of cake – castagnaccio – with walnuts
Arcidosso: Piazza Indipendenza, town dwarfs the historic centre, which and pine nuts. The Amiata chestnut
58031; 0564 968 084. Santa Fiora: is best explored from Piazza Giuseppe has a delicious sweet taste when
Piazza Giuseppe Garibaldi 37, 58037; roasted and even has Protected
056 497 7142 Garibaldi, an 18th-century attempt Geographical Indication (PGI).
to emulate Siena’s famous Campo.
WHERE TO STAY On Corso Nasini, named after the
CASTIGLIONE D’ORCIA 17th-century family of painters born 4 Arcidosso
Castiglionae Grossola inexpensive here, stands Chiesa di Madonna delle
A large stone 16th-century farmstead Grazie with a beautiful Madonna col Grosseto, Toscana; 58031
set in the country – good for walkers. Bambino by Sano di Pietro (1405–81). Just outside Arcidosso, the Santuario
Via Grossola 4, 53023; 0577 887 537; ª Head west on Via della Croce/SP64. della Madonna delle Grazie (open daily),
www.agriturismogrossola.it Turn left on SP26/Loc. Case Rosse and consecrated in 1348 and expanded in
AROUND MONTELATERONE take a sharp right up Via Nouva to the 16th century, houses works of the
Agriturismo Sorripe inexpensive Montelaterone. Park in Via Nouva. 14th-century Sienese school. In 1121,
This farm stay (with pool), by Mt Amiata’s
woods, harvests olive oil and chestnuts.
Loc. Case Rosse; 0564 964 186;
www.agriturismosorripe.it
AROUND ARCIDOSSO
Park Hotel Colle degli Angeli expensive
This spa resort offers pampered comfort
in the clear mountain air: swimming
pool, sauna, spa and massage.
Loc. Aiuole, 58031; 0564 967 409
SANTA FIORA
Hotel Eden inexpensive
This simple, rustic hotel offers old-
world hospitality.
Via Roma 1, 58037; 0564 97 71 26;
www.hoteledensantafiora.it
Above The twin hamlets of Castiglione d’Orcia and Rocca d’Orcia
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €100; moderate, €100–€200; expensive, over €200


192-195_Back_Roads_Northern_Italy.indd 192 21/09/17 11:19 am
Back Roads LAYERS PRINTED:
Catalogue Spread template “UK” LAYER
(OpenType)
Date 02 November 2009
Size 145mm x 217mm
Fonts Bulletfont, Clearbullet,
Frutiger Pro, Myriad Pro, Travelfont

DRIVE 19: In the Shadow of a Volcano 193


Far left Pretty backstreets in the medieval
heart of Montelaterone Left The distant
Piancastagnaio seen beneath Monte Amiata
Below Enoteca Saxa Cuntaria, Piancastagnaio,
with its menu clearly displayed

BIRRA AMIATA
Beer drinkers must try the local brews
from Birra Amiata in Montelaterone
(www.birra-amiata.it). La Bastarda Rossa
is made with Amiata chestnuts and has
a rich red colour, while Aldobrandesca is
a wheat beer made to a medieval recipe.

the town became a stronghold of the through the grove near the Peschiera EAT AND DRINK
Aldobrandeschi family, who built the and the Parco Comunale di San Rocco.
impressive Rocca Aldobrandesca (open ª Return to SP6. The route is CASTIGLIONE D’ORCIA
Sat & Sun) – climb the tower for views. signposted “Roma”. Then turn left onto Il Cassero inexpensive
An unpretentious trattoria in the heart
Little of the town’s original walls SP18. At Piancastagnaio turn right into of town offering home-made pasta
remain, except for two original gates: Viale Giuseppe Vespa, through the gate with Amiata mushroom and truffles.
Porta di Castello and Porta Talassese. and park in Piazza Castello. Piazza Cesare Battisti 1, 53023; 0577
ª From Piazza Indipendenza follow 888 950; www.trattoriailcassero.com;
signs to Santa Fiora. Take SP160, then 6 Piancastagnaio closed Tue
turn left onto SP6 at Aiuole. Park in Siena, Toscana; 53025 La Cisterna nel Borgo moderate
Via delle Fontane. Its walls and town gates are mostly Convivial hosts and traditional fare
served with an innovative twist.
gone, but Piancastagnaio’s medieval Via Borgo Maestro 37, Rocca d’Orcia
The Prophet of Amiata townscape endures. The hard stone 53023; 0577 887 280; www.cisterna
In the late 19th century, a man from streets of this mountain town reflect nelborgo.com; closed Mon
Arcidosso, David Lazzaretti, founded the harshness of life in the medieval CASTEL DEL PIANO
a church called Giurisdavidismo, era, when poverty was part of the
which advocated a form of socialism infrastructure. Monumental Rocca Taverna Delle Logge moderate
and universal suffrage. Arrested twice Aldobrandesca (Jun–Aug: open daily) This small restaurant serves exceptional
local food such as tripe and peposo, a
by the alarmed authorities of the new mountain stew. Good wine cellar.
Italian state and excommunicated looms over the town. After exploring V. Della Penna 10, 58033; 0564 973
by the pope, he was finally shot dead the tower, head down Via Cavour to 249; booking advised
by the military police in 1878. A the main square, Piazza Matteotti,
museum in Arcidosso’s Palazzo del where the grand Baroque cathedral, ARCIDOSSO
Comune (Piazza Indipendenza; open Santa Maria Assunta (open daily), first La Tagliola inexpensive
9am–1pm Mon–Fri, 5–8pm Sat & Sun) recorded in 1188, stands almost This place in the newer part of town is
tells the fascinating story of his life. for confirmed mushroom lovers: enjoy
hidden behind a crowd of buildings. them roasted, fried or raw.
ª Head northwest on Viale Giuseppe Via di Centro 3, Loc. Bagnoli 58031;
5 Santa Fiora Vespa and follow SP18 to Abbadia San 0564 967 351; www.latagliola.it
Grosseto, Toscana; 58037 Salvatore. Fork right at roundabout, Il Bagatto inexpensive
One of the prettiest Amiata towns, then left to park in Via Cavour. This pleasant ice-cream place also
Santa Fiora’s castellated centre is serves up quick lunches.
entered through the huge Porta al Viale Davide Lazzaretti, 1, 58031;
Palazzo into Piazza Garibaldi. Piazza 0564 966 207; closed Wed
di San Michele is dominated by a SANTA FIORA
statue of the saint in peperino, a grey- Il Barilotto inexpensive–moderate
brown volcanic tufa rock. In Piazza Generous portions of well-prepared
delle Arcipretura, La Pieve delle meat and game, traditional but with
Sante Flora e Lucilla (open daily) has an innovative twist. Good wine cellar.
blue-and-white glazed terracotta Via Carolina 24, 58037; 0564 977 089;
closed Wed
reliefs by Andrea della Robbia from
1465–90. Via della Pescheria leads to PIANCASTAGNAIO
a pond, constructed in the 12th Enoteca Saxa Cuntaria
century and filled with trout. Santa This place serves rich mountain food
Fiora makes a good base for hiking with gusto. Try the Tuscan lamb soup,
through the forests on Mt Amiata’s and the lemon-scented rabbit with
porcini mushrooms and olives.
western and southwestern slopes. Piazza Giacomo Matteotti 11, 53025;
There’s a pleasant signposted walk 0577 784 104; www.saxacuntaria.it
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€45; expensive over €45


192-195_Back_Roads_Northern_Italy.indd 193 06/10/17 2:59 pm

194 BACK ROADS NORTHERN AND CENTRAL ITALY


7 Abbadia San Salvatore from the local volcanic rock, grew
Siena, Toscana; 53021 around the abbey and expanded
Lombard King Rachis established this due to the mercury mining industry.
abbey, one of the greatest in Tuscany, The mine is now the Parco Museo
in AD 743. For centuries it was the Minerario (summer: open daily; www.
most important place in the region museominerario.it) with a narrow-
and held sway over the valley and gauge train to some of the sights.
the popular pilgrim route the Via ª To exit town, follow signs to the
Francigena. The magnificent abbey Vetta Amiata on Via Federico
church (open daily), in Via del Hamman and then onto SP81. On
Monastero, has a crypt that dates back arrival at the large turning circle, there
to the original building. A town, built is a car park to the left under the trees.

8 Summit of Amiata
Pianello Vetta, Grosseto, Toscana; 58033
Above The typical dark volcanic stone of Although usually snow covered from December until March, in summer
medieval Abbadia San Salvatore the peak of Monte Amiata offers pleasant walks with spectacular views
of the valley, from a large Crucifix and a statue of the Madonna.
WHERE TO STAY
ABBADIA SAN SALVATORE A one-hour walking tour After the 18th-century suppression of
Agriturismo Trefossata moderate Follow signs to Vetta Amiata (Amiata the monasteries, the cooperative
This simple farmhouse offers rooms all Summit) to the car park near the Società Macchia Faggeta was formed,
year round in a tranquil, no frills
environment. Good for families. Albergo La Croce. Pass through a and in 1944 it took over managing
Trefossata, 53021; 0577 776 204; wood to a wide grassy slope 1 – in the woods, trails, ski runs and lifts.
www.trefossata.it winter this is the ski school slope. The The mountain path winds through
walk up the paved path leads to the the forest past huge granite boulders.
SUMMIT OF AMIATA
Albergo Sella inexpensive–moderate Croce dell’Amiata 2, a large iron On the largest outcrop is mounted
This chalet operates all year with plenty cross. In 1900, for the new century, the white Madonna of the Scouts 5.
of snow activities in winter and Nordic Pope Leo XIII decreed that the 20 This second crowning of Mt Amiata
walking at other times. highest peaks in Italy have a cross was made by the Scouts of Grosseto.
Loc. Vetta Amiata 53021; 0577 789 mounted. It took ten years and the The statue was carried to the summit
747; www.albergosella.it
four tons of iron were carried to the over ten days in 1961. Scouts from all
BAGNI SAN FILIPPO 1,730-m (5,676-ft) peak by the people over the world climb the rocks to tie
Terme San Filippo moderate of Abbadia San Salvatore. To the left their kerchiefs to the sanctuary. Retrace
This small spa resort in the centre of of the cross is a viewing platform 3 the route back to the car park.
town, near the natural spring, is the looking down on the Val d’Orcia and ª From Abbadia San Salvatore, take
perfect spot to relax in mud baths.
Via San Filippo 23, 53023; 0577 872 982; the town of Abbadia San Salvatore. SP18 towards Bagni San Filippo. Then
www.termesanfilippo.com. Due east, in the distance, is the Castello fork right on SP61, following direction
di Radicofani sitting atop a dark pine- “Siena” and near the village is located
AROUND RADICOFANI clad hill. The path to the right goes Fosso Bianco.
Fattoria la Palazzina moderate past the bar-restaurant
An elegant 18th-century hunting lodge
set on a hill among cypresses and oaks. La Vetta, where walkers
Loc. Le Vigne, 53042; 3662718366; www. can stop for an aperitif
fattorialapalazzina.com; bikes available of vin brulè (mulled
wine). Further along
AROUND SAN CASCIANO Grassy Slope
DEI BAGNI the path to the left is a
natural beech thicket
Il Poggio expensive Macchia Faggeta 4. 0 metres 150
The II Poggio farm stay offers riding for 81
experts and beginners. Accommodation The forest of Amiata 0 yards 150
is in the farm house and 26 apartments has long been a useful
in the nearby village. source of lumber –
Celle sul Rigo 53040; 0578 53748; the Etruscans used it
www.ilpoggio.net
to build their boats. In
Fonteverde expensive the 8th century, the Croce dell’Amiata
This glamorous spa resort offers Abbey took over the
pampering treatments, massage and Viewing Platform
highly attentive staff – good restaurant. jurisdiction of the Madonna of Macchia Faggeta
Loc. Terme 1, 53040; 0578 57241; area, creating towns the Scouts 81
www.fonteverdespa.com around the mountain.
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €100; moderate, €100–€200; expensive, over €200
192-195_Back_Roads_Northern_Italy.indd 194 21/09/17 11:19 am
Back Roads LAYERS PRINTED:
Catalogue Spread template “UK” LAYER
(OpenType)
Date 02 November 2009
Size 145mm x 217mm
Fonts Bulletfont, Clearbullet,
Frutiger Pro, Myriad Pro, Travelfont

DRIVE 19: In the Shadow of a Volcano 195


Left View of Radicofani, seen from high above
on the Amiata Summit Below San Casciano
dei Bagni, surrounded by pretty countryside
ACTIVITIES IN MONTE AMIATA
The ski season runs 20 Dec–14 Mar and
there are 60 km (37 miles) of ski runs
and trails for cross-country skiers. For
lessons, contact Scuola Sci Amiata
West www.scuolasciamiataovest.it.
To hire a bike to scale the mountain
in summer, or a set of skis to slide
down in winter, try Paolo Sport (Viale
Roma, 4 Abbadia San Salvatore 53021;
0577 778 397).
9 Bagni San Filippo an interesting 14th-century
Siena, Toscana; 53023 polychrome Madonna and Child. EAT AND DRINK
The white limestone waterfall Fosso Walk up Via della Fortezza to the SUMMIT OF AMIATA
Bianco is an extraordinary natural castello (Apr–Sep: open daily; Oct–Mar: La Vetta inexpensive
phenomenon with hot mountain open Thu–Sun) for spectacular views This mountain-top bar/restaurant is
springs steaming with sulphurous of the Val d’Orcia. The tower’s history useful for a quick hot chocolate, grappa
vapours. In 1271, a Florentine monk includes the time when it was or even a hearty mountain meal, such
and candidate for pontiff, Filippo Benizi, occupied by a local gentleman bandit, as polenta with salsiccia (sausage).
fled here to dwell in a nearby cave Ghino di Tacco, in the 13th century. Loc. Vetta Monte Amiata 2, 53021;
0577 789 803
and discovered the spring. The Fosso ª Head east on SP di Sarteano/SS478.
Bianco and hot springs are accessed Take a sharp right onto SP54 and BAGNI SAN FILIPPO
from a marked trail off Via del Bollore. turn left onto SS321, then turn right Osteria Lo Spugnone inexpensive
The curative effects of the water can to Can Casciano and park by the A pleasant osteria with classic Tuscan
dishes such as chunky salami and grilled
be enjoyed at the spa Terme San city walls. vegetables drizzled with olive oil.
Filippo (www.termesanfilippo.com). Via delle Terme 4/6; 0577 872 030; www.
ª Follow road down to SP61 and q San Casciano dei Bagni lospugnone.it; booking recommended
turn right. Take a right turn onto Siena, Toscana; 53040 SAN CASCIANO DEI BAGNI
SR2, then left onto SS478. Park by The Etruscans and Romans enjoyed
the city walls. the hot springs in this area – Augustus La Fornarina inexpensive
Smart, modern bar good for a quick
himself is said to have visited – and snack with a nice glass of wine.
0 Radicofani built baths here. By the Middle Via San Cassiano 18, 53040; 0578 59022
Siena, Toscana; 53040 Ages, a town and castle had been
Visible for miles around, hilltop established in the tranquil landscape.
Radicofani dominated the Roman Via The turret of the castello (built in
Cassia and became a control point 1911, despite appearances) and the
on the road between Rome and bell tower of the Collegiata Church
northern Europe. Etruscan in origin, dominate the town. Enter through
the town came under the sway of Porta di Sopra (Upper Gate) and
the 8th-century Lombard king notice how the medieval structure of
Desiderius. The tight cluster of houses the town remains unchanged. Piazza
are built of Amiata stone and the Matteotti, just below the old town,
Chiesa di San Pietro has two works by forms a natural terrace with great
the studio of Andrea della Robbia and views over southern Tuscany.

DAY TRIP OPTIONS home-made salami from a butcher Conquer a castle or two
Eating local food, such as chestnuts, (macelleria). Drive up to the Summit Castiglione d’Orcia 1 is a good
salami and beer, is a good way to get a of Amiata 8 for a walk and a picnic place to start as it has two castles
feel for a place. Young kids may not like with a view. Then it’s back down to with great views. There’s no fort at
old buildings but they all love castles. Arcidosso 4 for a taste of local beer. Castel del Piano 2, but it’s a fine
medieval town. Montelaterone 3
Gourmet day From Santa Fiora, follow the drive’s has everything – ancient walls, a
Start the day at Santa Fiora 5 and instructions to Piancastagnaio, then go historic centre and a ruined keep.
buy freshly roasted chestnuts in past Abbadia San Salvatore and up to
season or the rich castagnaccio Summit of Abbadia. From there, take Follow the driving instructions to
cake. At Piancastagnaio 6 buy SP81/SP35/SP58 then SP160 to Arcidosso. Montelarone and back.

Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€45; expensive over €45


192-195_Back_Roads_Northern_Italy.indd 195 21/09/17 11:19 am

BRNI_196-197_OpnDrv20.indd 196 27/10/11 6:05 PM
Back Roads LAYERS PRINTED:
Section opener template “UK” LAYER
(OpenType)
Date 02 November 2009
Size 145mm x 217mm
Font Myriad Pro

DRIVE 20





Milan
Turin Venice
IT AL Y
Genoa Bologna
Florence
Perugia

Rome


Umbrian

Hills, Tuscan

Valleys


Orvieto to

Arezzo



Highlights

• Renaissance masterpieces
Marvel at heaven and hell in Orvieto’s
Duomo by Luca Signorelli and Piero
della Francesca’s frescoes in Arezzo
• Noble wine
Taste one of the great Italian red
wines in the rustic wine cellars and
restaurants of Montepulciano
• Walled towns
Meander through the beautiful
walled towns of Cetona,
Lucignano and Cortona
• Etruscan sites
Discover the ancient treasures of
Orvieto, Sarteano and Cortona,
showcased in magnificent museums



Classic landscape showing the grey-brown
soil of the Crete Sienesi




BRNI_196-197_OpnDrv20.indd 197 27/10/11 6:05 PM

198 BACK ROADS NORThERN AND CENTRAL ITALy

Umbrian Hills, Tuscan Valleys

This drive follows the Umbrian part of the important route between Rome and Pratan
Pratanticotico
northern Europe, now the Strada Statale 71 (SS71), from Orvieto through the San P San Poloolo
Chianni AREZZOAREZZO
hilly hinterland to the north. This was once an Etruscan stronghold, where later, Chianni San San
Seve
Severoro
in the Middle Ages, villages passed from one feudal lord to another. The drive Battif Battifolleolle San F San Firenzeirenze
Palazzoo
then crosses into Tuscany, passing through the pretty towns and vineyards Olmo Olmo Palazz
del P
del Peroero
of the Val di Chiana and Montepulciano, on to Val d’Orcia and Renaissance Badía al Fon Fontianotiano Sant Sant’Ágata’Ágata
Badía al
Pienza, through the rolling clay hills of the Crete Senesi. Finally, via the walls Pino Pino del T del Termeerme
Rigutino
of Lucignano, the drive swings back to the SS71 at Cortona and Castiglion Rigutino Vitiano
Vitiano
Fiorentino, before finishing at the provincial capital, Arezzo. Alber Alberorooro Polv Polvanoano
Fon Fonte alte al Frassinet
Frassinetoo
Rocco
Rocco Val di Ch
Éremo di
CASTIGLION
CASTIGLION Éremo di
Mon Montete Cesa Cesa Val di Chiana San E San Egídiogídio
FIORENTINO
San S FIORENTINO Mon Montécchiotécchio
San Savinoavino
Mezza
Mezzaviavia
Marciano Castr Castroncellooncello Cast Castél Gilardiél Gilardi
della Chiana
della Chiana
TOSCANA
LUCIGNANO TOSCANA
LUCIGNANO
Marciano iana
Rigomag Camucia
Rigomagnono
Camucia
Foiano
Foiano COR CORTONATONA
della Chiana
della Chiana
Manzano
Manzano
Ríccio
Ríccio
Sinalunga
Sinalunga Appalt
Appaltoo
Farneta
Farneta
Bett Bettolleolle Cignano Cen Centóiatóia
Cignano
TREQUANDAANDA
TREQU
Borghettoo
Borghett
Mon Montelifrételifré Torr Torrita di Sienaita di Siena Canale Maestro della Chiana Lag Lagoo
Trasimeno
MONTISI
MONTISI le Rot le Rotelleelle Petr Petrignanoignano Trasimeno
Vernine Piana Piana
Vernine
CASTELMUZIO Graccianociano Castiglione
CASTELMUZIO Grac
Castiglione
Canale Maestro della Chiana
Pozzuolo
del Lago
Acquavivaviva
Acqua Pozzuolo del Lago
Palazz la Buca Lago di
Palazzoneone
Lago di
la Buca
Gioiella
Toscano Fornacino Monte Montepulcianopulciano Gioiella
Toscano
MONTEPULCIANOCIANO
Fornacino
Bellár Belláriaia PIENZA MONTEPUL Pucciar
PIENZA
Pucciarellielli
Sant’Albino’Albino
Sant
Lago di
Chianciano
Chianciano Chianciano Lago di Villastrada Mác Mácchiechie
Chiusi Villastrada
Chiusi
Chianciano
Biancacamícia Terme
San Q Biancacamícia Terme
San Quíricouírico
d’Órcia V Va l d ’ O r c i a Castellúccioellúccio
Cast
d’Órcia a l d ’ O r c i a
Chiusi
Above The Giostra del Saraceno, a colourful medieval spectacle held in Arezzo see p205 Chiusi Panicale
Panicale
Quer Querce al Pinoce al Pino
Chiusi S
Chiusi Scalocalo
Gallina Castelvécchioelvécchio Malapesta
Malapesta
Gallina Cast
Castiglione
Castiglione
d’Ór d’Órciacia SAR SARTEANOTEANO San Litar
San Litardodo
Con Contignanotignano Piegar
Piegaroo
San P San Piero iniero in CET CETONAONA CIT CITTÀ DELLATÀ DELLA
Leccino
Campo
ACTIVITIES Leccino Campo PIE PIEVEVE
ÚMBRIA
Monte Cetona ÚMBRIA
Monte Cetona
1148m
Ride a horse through the hills and nature reserves around Le C Le Conieonie Sansano 1148m Mon Montegabbionetegabbione
Sansano
MONTELEONE
Orvieto MONTELEONE
D’ORVIETO San L
Radic Radicófaniófani D’ORVIETO San Lorenzoorenzo
Santa Mariaaria
San Cascianoasciano
Relive 1960s Italian style with a day’s touring on a classic San C dei Bag Fossalta Santa M
dei Bagnini
Fossalta
Vespa from Cetona Olév Olévoleole
Fabr Fabroo
l’Aiale
l’Aiale
Celle sul Rigoigo
Learn traditional skills and throw a terracotta pot at a Celle sul R Lago di San San C San Cristófororistóforo
Lago di San
pottery near Ficulle Casciano FICULLE Chiani
Casciano
FICULLE
Elvella Elvella Aller Alleronaona Valico di Monte Níb
Chiani
Valico di Monte Níbbiobio
Enjoy a glass or two of celebrated DOC wine at Montepulciano Trevinano 544m 544m
Trevinano
San San
Faustino
Sample the famous Pecorino di Pienza cheese in the heart of Mon Montete Sala Sala Faustino
the Val d’Orcia Rubiáglio Bag Bagnini
Rubiáglio
Mor Morranorano
Páglia
Páglia
Nuo Nuovovo
Photograph your own picture postcards of the rolling hills of Cast Castelel Páglia
Viscardodo
Viscar
the Crete Senesi San Giór
Páglia
San Giórgiogio
Viceno Ciconia
Viceno
Ciconia
Sip prosecco in a hot-air balloon, soaring over the glorious Sugano OR ORVIETOVIETO
Sugano
Tuscan countryside
BRNI_198-199_ItinDrive20.indd 198 02/09/14 2:08 PM