DK Eyewitness: Back Roads Northern and Central Italy (Travel Guide)

DRIVE 25: The Heart of Le Marche 249

PLAN YOUR DRIVE
BarácolaBarácola
SappanicoSappanico
PóggioPóggio
Start/finish: Loreto to Grottammare.
Fonte d´Ólio Fonte d´Ólio
PolverigiPolverigi Offagna Offagna Camerano Camerano Number of days: 3–4 days.
M . C o n e r o
M . C o n e r o
S. BiagnoS. Biagno CoppoCoppo SIROLO SIROLO
CroceCroce S. Paterniano S. Paterniano Numana Numana Distance: Approx 240 km (149 miles).
di S. Vincenzo di S. Vincenzo Marcelli Marcelli
ÓSIMOÓSIMO S. Sabino S. Sabino S. Rocchetto S. Rocchetto Road conditions: Good-quality roads
MontepolescoMontepolesco PadiglionePadiglione with one or two steep ascents.
MontoroMontoro Castelfidardo Castelfidardo
When to go: All year round but best
Passatempo Passatempo LORETOLORETO in spring and autumn. August is very
FilottranoFilottrano
Castello di Montefiore Porto Recanati Porto Recanati crowded on the coast but quiet inland.
Castello di Montefiore
S. IgnázioS. Ignázio MONTEFANOMONTEFANO CastelnuovoCastelnuovo S. MariaS. Maria
in Potenzain Potenza Above A narrow, cobblestoned street in pretty Opening times: Churches open
RecanatiRecanati
VillaVilla
T. Fiumicello S. AntonioS. Antonio Antolini Antolini Potenza Potenza S. GírioS. Gírio Porto PotenzaPorto Potenza 8am–12:30pm and 3:30–6:30pm.
T. Fiumicello
Ripatransone, see p255
Shops in inland towns within driving
MONTECASSIANOMONTECASSIANO S. LeopardoS. Leopardo PicenaPicena distance of the coast stay open late in
CastiglianoCastigliano PotenzaPotenza
PicenaPicena summer to cater for those returning
CásciaCáscia MonteluponeMontelupone
VillaVilla AlvianoAlviano from the beach.
CimmarellaCimmarella Helvia RecinaHelvia Recina FontespinaFontespina
Villa PotenzaVilla Potenza Main market days: Loreto: Tue; Osimo:
Tréia Tréia MorrovalleMorrovalle S. M.S. M. CivitanovaCivitanova
ApparenteApparente Thu; Macerata: Wed; San Ginesio: Sun;
Borgo di Staz.Borgo di Staz. MarcheMarche
SassoSasso MontecósaroMontecósaro Sarnano: Thu; Ascoli Piceno: Wed.
Passo di TréiaPasso di Tréia d´Italia MACERATAMACERATA
d´Italia
TródicaTródica Chienti Chienti
F. Potenza
F. Potenza PollenzaPollenza SforzacostaSforzacosta PiediripaPiediripa Villa S. FilippoVilla S. Filippo CascinareCascinare Specialized markets: Macerata:
PievePieve
Il Barattolo flea market, 2nd Sunday
CorridóniaCorridónia Porto Sant´ElpídioPorto Sant´Elpídio of month; Ascoli Piceno: antiques
T. Fiastra T. Cre mone S. ElpídioS. Elpídio market, 3rd weekend of month.
T. Cre mone
T. Fiastra
ABBADIA DI FIASTRAABBADIA DI FIASTRA MontegranaroMontegranaro al Mareal Mare CasabiancaCasabianca
TolentinoTolentino Major festivals: Macerata: Sferisterio
Ete Morto
Urbs SalviaUrbs Salvia Ete Morto Tenna Tenna Lido di FermoLido di Fermo
Monte UranoMonte Urano
URBISAGLIAURBISAGLIA MoglianoMogliano MonteMonte CapodarcoCapodarco (opera festival), Jul–Aug; San Ginesio:
Palio (medieval festival) 15 Aug; Ascoli
BelforteBelforte le Gráziele Grázie S. PietrángeliS. Pietrángeli CampiglioneCampiglione Porto S. GiórgioPorto S. Giórgio
Chienti Chienti FermoFermo S. Maria a MareS. Maria a Mare 1st Sun in Aug; Carnivale, late Feb–
del Chientidel Chienti ColmunaroColmunaro Loro PicenoLoro Piceno RapagnanoRapagnano Piceno: Quintana (medieval festival)
MARCHEMARCHE MontegiórgioMontegiórgio MontottoMontotto Marina PalmenseMarina Palmense early Mar; Offida: Carnivale, Feb–Mar.
CaldarolaCaldarola CamporotondoCamporotondo MácchieMácchie CaldaretteCaldarette SacriSacri MolinettoMolinetto
di Fiastronedi Fiastrone Cosollo Cosollo CuoriCuori Shopping: In Macerata, look for
VestignanoVestignano GrottazzolinaGrottazzolina AltidonaAltidona Varnelli – an aniseed-flavour liqueur.
SAN GINESIOSAN GINESIO Passo S. ÁngeloPasso S. Ángelo LapedonaLapedona
FaleroneFalerone Tenna BelmonteBelmonte Ete Vivo Ete Vivo PedasoPedaso Ascoli Province is known for its hand-
Tenna
Gola del Fiastrone Fiastra Fiastra ServiglianoServigliano PicenoPiceno MonterubbianoMonterubbiano CampofiloneCampofilone made shoes. Offida is regarded as one
Gola del Fiastrone
Fiastrone
Fiastrone S. M. di PiecaS. M. di Pieca SalineSaline Salino MonsampietroMonsampietro RubbianelloRubbianello of the best lace-making centres in
Salino
MóricoMórico
Marina diMarina di Italy. In Grottammare, pick up
GábellaGábella VecciolaVecciola PennaPenna S. ElpídioS. Elpídio Aso Aso MontefioreMontefiore MassignanoMassignano handmade ceramics from Argyla
NuovaNuova S. GiovanniS. Giovanni MóricoMórico MonteMonte dell´ Asodell´ Aso Ponte MenócchiaPonte Menócchia (www.argyla.it), next to the fortress.
Menocchia
SARNANOSARNANO PalombiPalombi RinaldoRinaldo CarassaiCarassai Menocchia Cupra MarittimaCupra Marittima
Pizzo di MetaPizzo di Meta SassotettoSassotetto S.VittóriaS.Vittória AsoAso
1576m1576m in Matenanoin Matenano
Fonte LardinaFonte Lardina RústiciRústici DAY TRIP OPTIONS
BolognolaBolognola VidoniVidoni CoriconiCoriconi Mad. d. LagoMad. d. Lago RIPATRANSONERIPATRANSONE Tesino GROTTAMMAREGROTTAMMARE
Tesino
AmándolaAmándola RovetinoRovetino S. GiovanniS. Giovanni From the High Renaissance
M. AmándolaM. Amándola MontedinoveMontedinove in Stradain Strada San BenedettoSan Benedetto
1706m1706m S. VenanzoS. Venanzo del Trontodel Tronto architecture of Loreto, it’s a short drive
ColleColle ComunanzaComunanza RotellaRotella S. BárnabaS. Bárnaba to the catacombs in Osimo, where
MONTEFORTINOMONTEFORTINO CastignanoCastignano
SossassoSossasso ACQUAVIVAACQUAVIVA early Christians sheltered from perse-
PianePiane RipaberadaRipaberada OFFIDAOFFIDA PICENAPICENA
CerrefanaCerrefana M. dell’AscensioneM. dell’Ascensione Fiobbo Fiobbo Porto d´ÁscoliPorto d´Áscoli cution. The towns in the foothills of
1103m1103m
ÍlliceÍllice PalmianoPalmiano C a l a n Chifente CastoranoCastorano CentobuchiCentobuchi the Monti Sibillini provide ready access
C a l a n c h i c h i
Chifente
MONTEMONACOMONTEMONACO Lago diLago di S. GiovanniS. Giovanni AppignanoAppignano ColliColli StellaStella MartinsicuroMartinsicuro to the national park, where churches
GerosaGerosa
TofeTofe Aso Aso PolverinaPolverina VenarottaVenarotta GimiglianoGimigliano del Trontodel Tronto Lama Lama d. Trontod. Tronto perch on cliff tops, castles keep watch
FoceFoce ÁSCOLIÁSCOLI Castel di LamaCastel di Lama PagliarePagliare ColonnellaColonnella for invaders and vineyards stretch as
UscernoUscerno MársiaMársia PICENOPICENO far as the eye can see. The marble town
Rocca f l uvi
BisignanoBisignano Rocca f l uvione one Tronto Tronto ControguerraControguerra Alba AdriáticaAlba Adriática Villa RosaVilla Rosa of Ascoli Piceno is rich in art, architec­
BalzoBalzo MaltignanoMaltignano ture and history; beyond it lies perfect
Mon tegall o
Mon tegall o
RoccareonileRoccareonile LiscianoLisciano S. EgídioS. Egídio CorrópoliCorrópoli
TallacanoTallacano MozzanoMozzano alla Vibrataalla Vibrata NeretoNereto picnic country and Grottammare’s sea­
CavaceppoCavaceppo GabianoGabiano FaraoneFaraone side delights. For full details, see p255.
248-249_Back_Roads_Northern_Italy.indd 249 06/10/17 3:00 pm

250 BACK ROADS NORTHERN AND CENTRAL ITALY


1 Loreto 2 Sirolo
Ancona, Le Marche; 60025 Ancona, Le Marche; 60020
This small hill town is one of Italy’s Perched on a clifftop overlooking
holiest sites and often throngs with the Adriatic, Sirolo is a beachside
pilgrims. It is also a place where town some distance from the beach.
Renaissance popes invested heavily In a sense, this adds to its attraction
in fine art and architecture. In the – it gets a cooling sea breeze in
huge Basilica della Santa Casa (open summer and combines the ambience
daily) sits a small and very old building. of a hilltown with ocean views. The
Pilgrims come here to see where the main square, Piazzale Marino, offers
Above Secluded sandy beach on the Conero Virgin Mary received the news that she the best views of the beaches of
Peninsula near Sirolo was to become the Mother of God the Conero Peninsula, and the tiny
(The Annunciation). They believe that medieval streets behind it buzz with
WHERE TO STAY
this is her actual house, carried by activity in summer.
LORETO angels to Italy in 1294 from Nazareth ª From Sirolo, drive west downhill on
Hotel Loreto inexpensive in the Holy Land. Many famous 14th- to SP2. Drive straight over roundabout,
Central, modern location with great and 15th-century architects, such as then turn left under the autostrada on
countryside views from its terrace. Bramante, Sangallo and Martini, SP25. Then follow signs to Osimo. There
Corso Boccalini 60, 60025; 071 750 worked on the basilica’s decoration are parking meters all around town.
0106; www.loretohotel.it and the soldier pope, Julius II, gave it
MACERATA a military exterior. Of special interest The Santa Casa at Loreto
Arcadia Hotel inexpensive is the large marble screen, designed In 1291, Acre, the last bastion of
Within the old walls and close to by Bramante – one of many great the Christian crusaders, fell to the
the main attractions, this modest works of art in the complex. The town’s Turks, leaving the Holy Land under
hotel offers parking, a good piazza, fountain and the quadrangle the control of Muslims. To protect
breakfast and professional staff. their Christian heritage, a crusader
V P Matteo Ricci 134, 62100; 0733 of buildings surrounding it all have a family arranged to remove “Mary’s
230063; www.arcadiahotelmacerata.it High Renaissance feel, which makes house” to safety. That same year,
it like a mini Rome away from Rome. the house arrived in Croatia, and
Below Arco Gotico, the main shopping street ª From Loreto, take SP77 east. At the in 1294 in Loreto. The stonework is
in clifftop Sirolo Below right Typical Le roundabout, head north towards Sirolo, similar to examples from Nazareth
Marche vineyard on the road to Macerata then turn right onto SP23 to Sirolo and from around the time of the birth
Bottom The tower of Castello di Montefiore, follow signs for “Centro”. Park near of Christ. Gradually the myth grew
that angels had carried the Santa
visible from a distance Piazzale Marino. Casa, or Holy House, to Italy.
3 Osimo
Ancona, Le Marche; 60027
The ancient Greeks, who colonized
nearby Ancona in the 3rd century BC,
founded Osimo. In 174 BC, the Romans
took possession and some elements
from this time still remain – great
rectangular blocks in the town walls,
and a Roman fountain. The town’s
age shows in many of its public
buildings, particularly the intricate
Romanesque carvings around the
doors of the Cattedrale di San
Leopardo (open daily) and the official
buildings in the main square, Piazza
del Comune. Below the town is a
labyrinth of catacombs, Le Grotte
(open Tue–Sun), dating back to pre-
Roman times. The tourist information
office (www.osimoturismo.it) is in Via
Fonte Magna, near the Roman walls.
ª Take Via C Colombo/SP361
following signs to Macerata. The
Castello di Montefiore, with ample
parking, is just before town.
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €100; moderate, €100–€200; expensive, over €200


250-255_Back_Roads_Northern_Italy.indd 250 21/09/17 11:17 am

DRIVE 25: The Heart of Le Marche 251

EAT AND DRINK
archway, make the main square,
Piazza Leopardi, look like it should LORETO
be the setting for an opera. During Ristorante Andreina expensive
festivals held here in October, they At chef Errico Recanati’s popular
make sughitti, a sweet polenta cake restaurant, enjoy great pasta dishes
made from wine mosto (must), such as tagliolini al tartufo (truffles)
and tagliatelle alla lepre (hare).
maize flour and local walnuts. Via Buffolareccia 14, 60025; 071 970
ª Continue on SP361. At a major 124; www.ristoranteandreina.it; closed
junction, there’s a sharp left on to SP77, Tue & Wed lunch
past Roman ruins at Helvia Recina. SIROLO
Stay on SP77 to Villa Potenza, then Trattoria Osteria Sara moderate
SP37 to Macerata. Park in Piazza A small, characterful osteria in the
Mazzini (except Wed market day). centre of town, where the fish is fresh
and cooked simply. Try risotto di mare or
6 Macerata home-made tagliatelle with white fish.
Above Piazza Mazzini, Macerata, home of the Macerata, Le Marche; 62100 Via Italia 9, 60020; 071 933 0716;
closed Wed
weekly market When the Visigoths destroyed the
Roman town of Helvia Recina in AD OSIMO
4 Montefano 408, the people moved to the hill De Gustibus moderate
Macerata, Le Marche; 62010 above. By the 12th century, Macerata Modern wine bar and restaurant in the
The imposing tower of the Castello had established itself and eventually historic centre. Plenty of local wines to
di Montefiore is visible long before became the provincial capital. choose from and a traditional menu
with a contemporary twist.
reaching Montefano. Little remains Famous today for open-air opera at the Piazza del Comune 11; 071 714 450;
of the original polygonal castle built Sferisterio, the town has a lively historic closed Sun
in the 14th century, except some of centre. Along Corso Matteotti, there MONTECASSIANO
the walls and the keep. The tower are a number of Renaissance palazzos,
withstood the artillery onslaught of the most striking being the Palazzo Nuovo Bar Centrale inexpensive
Underneath the loggia of the Palazzo
six centuries of wars, but was damaged dei Diamanti. The street leads into dei Priori, this is a good place for a
in World War II. Now restored, it is the architecturally jumbled Piazza restorative drink or snack.
used as a summer concert venue and della Libertà. Its jewel is the small but Piazza Unità d’ Italia 16, 62010; 0733
can be explored. Nearby Montefano perfectly formed Loggia dei Mercanti 290 479
is a pretty little town very typical of (1505), a fine example of Renaissance MACERATA
this part of Le Marche. harmony. The tenor Beniamino Gigli La Volpe e L’uva moderate
ª Take SP361 to Montecassiano. Turn (1890–1957) once serenaded the Enjoy good wine and top cuisine such
right onto ring road, Viale Giovanni town from the loggia’s balcony after a as quagliette con pancetta e salvia arrosto
XXIII. Park near one of the town gates. performance at the Sferisterio in 1930. (quails roasted with bacon and sage).
ª From the parking on Piazza Mazzini Via Berardi 39; 0733 237 879;
Rosso Conero turn right on Sferisterio and take Corso www.volpeeuva.it
Red wines from the Monte Conero Carioli south from round about. Then
region have been highly regarded turn right around the city walls towards
in Italy since ancient times; illustrious Via Roma/SP77and continue on SP77. Below left Passageway in the catacombs
Roman authors Pliny the Elder (AD At Sforzacosta, follow brown signs to beneath Osimo Below Porta Amando Diaz
23–79) and his nephew Pliny the abbey on SP78; ample parking. on the west side of Montecassiano
Younger (AD 61–112) both praised
the wines of this area to the south of
Ancona. Today’s “Rosso Conero” wines
are strong, full-bodied reds. The main
grape is Montepulciano, to which a
small percentage of Sangiovese can
be added. This inexpensive, readily
available wine benefits from ageing.

5 Montecassiano
Macerata, Le Marche; 62010
With medieval walls and three robust
gateways, Montecassiano is a set-
piece historic village. The swallow-
tail battlements of the Palazzo dei
Priori, the loggia below, and the
spire of the Collegiata di Santa Maria
Assunta (open daily) behind the




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252 BACK ROADS NORTHERN AND CENTRAL ITALY



















Above The cloisters at the Cistercian Abbadia
di Fiastra Above centre The pleasant wooded 7 Abbadia di Fiastra 8 Urbisaglia
nature reserve of the abbey Far right Elegant Macerata, Le Marche; 62029 Macerata, Le Marche; 62010
façade of the Collegiata della SS Annunziata, A Cistercian abbey, Fiastra has an The scattered remains of Urbs Salvia
San Ginesio extreme simplicity and a distinct lack (Jun–Sep: open daily; Oct–May: weekends
of adornment that seems to add to only) indicate that this ancient town
its calming and spiritual atmosphere. occupied a significant position in
WHERE TO STAY The original population of monks the Roman Empire. The road runs
URBISAGLIA came here from Milan in the 12th right past the Archaeological Park
Locanda Le Logge inexpensive century and used the nearby Roman and its well-preserved town walls,
Very chic, small B&B with three nice ruins for much of their building amphitheatre, sanctuary complex
rooms and a restaurant – book ahead. material. The beautiful and impressive and fresco-covered cryptoportico
Corso Gianelli 34, 62010; 0733 506788; Romanesque church, monastery and (underground passageway).
www.locandalelogge.it exquisite cloister now form a lively Urbisaglia, on the hillside above,
AROUND SAN GINESIO cultural centre in a large, thickly emerged in the Middle Ages. The
Il Casolare inexpensive wooded nature reserve (www. town has a typical medieval layout
Views of the Monti Sibillini and food abbadiafiastra.net). This park is known and its impressive, squat-bastioned
fresh from its own farm make this an as “La Selva” and is ideal for walking 16th-century Rocca stands in
authentic and enjoyable experience. and activities such as bird-watching. architectural contrast with the
Contrada Vallimestra 44, San Ginesio ª Take SP78 south from the abbey, more delicate Baroque Chiesa di
62026 (on SP45 west of town); 0733 656
688; www.agriturismocasolare.it ignore a signed right turn to Urbisaglia. San Lorenzo just next door.
The ruins of Urbs Salvia appear on the ª Return to SP78 south, turning right
MONTEMONACO left of car park. To get to Urbisaglia, uphill to San Ginesio as signed. There
Hotel Monti Azzurri inexpensive return to the signed turn off, turn left is plenty of parking available in town.
Based in the centre of town, this hotel and follow the road uphill to the town.
makes a good base for touring and has 9 San Ginesio
comfortable rooms and home cooking.
Via Roma 18, 63048; 0736 856 127; Below The small hill town of Montefortino, Macerata, Le Marche; 62026
www.hotelmontiazzurri.com dating back to Roman times At 700 m (2,300 ft) above sea level,
San Ginesio nestles into the foothills
of the Monti Sibillini. Entrance
to the town is through the Porta
Picena. To the right is the loggia
of the Ospedale dei Pelligrini,
established in 1295. To the left is a
large church, Santa Maria in Vepretis
(closed), and the small park nearby
has a sensational view towards the
south. In the town’s central square,
Piazza A Gentili, the Collegiata
della SS Anunziata (open daily) has
a lovely ornate terracotta façade.
The public gardens also have
wonderful views to the mountains.
ª Return to SP78 and carry on to
Sarnano. Park near main square.
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €100; moderate, €100–€200; expensive, over €200


250-255_Back_Roads_Northern_Italy.indd 252 21/09/17 11:17 am

DRIVE 25: The Heart of Le Marche 253


Cistercian Architecture
The Cistercians were a monastic
order that evolved in France in the
12th century. They believed that
people of faith should live simple
lives of hard work and prayer, and
saw decoration as a diversion from
spiritual matters. As a result, they
built large, plain and elegant
buildings. The Cistercians were
great conservationists who built in
remote locations, and after the
drastic deforestation of the 10th
and 11th centuries, developed
systems of managed agronomy.

0 Sarnano
Macerata, Le Marche; 62028
Built almost entirely from brick, Above left Montefortino, set among towering
Sarnano still retains its medieval q Montefortino peaks Above Brick-built Sarnano, a good
streetscape and ambience. From Ascoli Piceno, Le Marche; 63044 base for exploring the Sibillini Mountains
Piazza Alta, at the top of the town, Dating back to the Roman era,
the view of the terracotta roof tiles this town gave its name to a type
and the valley spread out below is of helmet worn by the Roman
enchanting. The square, eerily quiet legions. Porta Santa Lucia is the
for Italy, is sometimes called “the main entrance to the narrow streets
silent square” as there are no bars or of the town. Palazzo Leopardi (Jul–
restaurants. The town’s main public Aug: open daily; winter: Sat pm & Sun) is
buildings, the Palazzo del Popolo, a small museum known as the Little
the Palazzo dei Priori, the Palazzo dei Louvre of the Sibillini. It contains
Podestà and the Chiesa di Santa Maria a fine collection of Renaissance
Assunta (open daily) all date from the art, including works by Perugino,
late 13th century. The tiny ski resort Carracci and others.
of Sassotetto (www.sarnanoneve.it) is ª Return to SP83, heading south to
a 20-minute drive away, offering Montemonaco. Turn right at the sign EAT AND DRINK
Alpine and cross-country skiing. for the town and park in Piazza Roma.
ª Continue south on SP78 through URBISAGLIA
Amándola, turning right on SP83 to w Montemonaco Locanda Le Logge inexpensive
Montefortino. Park just outside town. Ascoli Piceno, Le Marche; 63048 This restaurant is highly regarded
by the locals and offers a fixed-price
At 1,080 m (3,540 ft), Montemonaco gourmet menu of Marchegiana
Below View from San Ginesio, in the foothills has clear, sharp air, fantastic views specialities. Booking advised.
of the Monte Sibillini and even a few medieval corners to Corso Gianelli 34, 62010; 0733 506788;
explore. To the east, the view extends www.locandalelogge.it
across a large swathe of Le Marche to SAN GINESIO
the Adriatic. Walk uphill along Via Terra Nostra inexpensive
Italia, and past the small 13th-century Home-made pasta and desserts make
Palazzo Comunale. Continue to the this cosy central eatery a good choice for
Chiesa di San Benedetto (open daily), local specialities such as wild boar and
which holds a relic of the right arm porcini. The menu also offers
Argentinian dishes.
of the saint encased in silver and a Piazza Gentili 3, 62026; 0733 656 957;
polychrome wooden crucifix from www.terranostrasanginesio.it
the late 15th century. Walk along the MONTEMONACO
path to the Parco Monteguarnieri,
with breathtaking mountain views. Bottega della Cuccagna inexpensive
This place offers a mouthwatering
ª Retrace route on SP83 and follow selection of cheeses, salamis, wines
signs to Ascoli Piceno, turning right on and other local delicacies. Just buy
SP74, left on SP86, then right on SP237 a picnic lunch to eat outside. The
to the Via Salaria SS4. Exit to Ascoli adventurous might want to stay at
Piceno and follow signs to “Centro”. their refuge on the mountainside.
Via San Lorenzo, 63048; 0338 469
Turn right at Via Adriatica and sharp 5073; www.bottegadellacuccagna.it;
left at Via Porta Torricella for car park. closed Wed
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€45; expensive, over €45


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254 BACK ROADS NORTHERN AND CENTRAL ITALY


0 metres 200
Ponte Solestà VIA TREBBIANI 0 yards 200
Piazza V Basso Tronto VIALE VELLEI PONTE
VIA SOLESTÀ
VI A DELLE STELLE
Torre
VIA DEI
VIA DELLE
Tronto VIA DEI SODERINI Ercolani DONNE V IA CAIROLI VIA F. TAMBURIN I LUNGOTRONTO BARTOLOMEI NUOVO
LONGOBARDI
VIA MANILA DEI FILODRAMMATICI VIA DELLA TORRI
CORSO DI SOT T O RUA LUNGA Museo dell'Arte VIA DEGLI STUDI Galleria d’Arte VIA DEL TRIVIO VIA DELL E CANTERINE VIA TITO AFRANIO VIA SACCONI
Ceramica
Contemporanea
VIA DEL
E TRIESTE
POZZETTO
CORSO TRENTO
VIA DEI SABINI
San Francesco
CORSO MAZZINI Piazza San CORSO MAZZINI Chiesa di C O R S O M A Z Z I N I
Agostino
Piazza del
DELLA
Porta VIA TEMPLARI PIAZZA
Romana VIA DELLA FOR TEZZA VIA PANICHI Popolo Piazza VIOLE
San Giovanni
Piazza Arringo Battistero di
V I A D I N O A N G E L I N I
Roma VIA XX SETTEMBRE Duomo di
V I A F R AN CE S CO RI CCI
Above The medieval festival of Quintana, held Pinocoteca Saint Emidio
Civica
in Ascoli Piceno ‘s Piazza del Popolo in August VIA CRISTOFORO COLOMBO Diocesano
VIA DEI CONTI
VIALE D E LLA RIMEMBRANZA
VIA DI VE S TA
WHERE TO STAY VIAL E DELLA FORTEZZA PIA VIALE PACIFIC MAZZ O NI VIA PR E TORIANA LUNGO CASTELLANO SISTO V Museo
ASCOLI PICENO Car Park
Palazzo Guiderocchi moderate
This central, venerable building offers e Ascoli Piceno
elegant rooms, Wi-Fi and a restaurant Le Marche 63100
The annexe also has good-value rooms.
Via Cesere Battisti 3, 63100; 0736 259 Originally a defensive site at the confluence of two rivers, Ascoli grew
710; www.palazzoguiderocchi.com to prominence in the Middle Ages. Although it is often said to have
the most beautiful piazza in Italy, what gives Ascoli its elegant charm
RIPATRANSONE
Hotel Piceno inexpensive is the fact that virtually every building is made of travertine marble.
This friendly hotel run by the Picceri
family represents good value for money. A three-hour walking tour hailed by many as the most beautiful
Via G Leopardi 12, 63038; 0735 9418; From the car park 1, walk across the piazza in Italy. One side is lined by
www.hotelpiceno.eu
wooden bridge and take the lift to the Caffè Meletti, an elegant Liberty-style
GROTTAMMARE city level. To the left there is a narrow bar, and the other by a fine arcade
La Torretta sul Borgo inexpensive lane into Piazza Arringo 2, the topped by swallow-tailed battlements.
This friendly B&B in the old part of town scene of many political speeches. Also on the square is the Gothic
is a modern amenity with a historic feel. At the eastern end is the Duomo di Chiesa di San Francesco, notable for
Via Camilla Peretti 2, 63013; 0735
736 864; www.latorrettasulborgo.it Saint Emidio (open daily), home to a its ribbed vaulting, a statue of Pope
polyptych by the 15th-century artist Julius II over the door and the Loggia
Below Ripatransone, viewed through a Carlo Crivelli. Beside the Duomo stands dei Mercanti, a 15th-century addition.
Gothic gateway into town the Battistero di San Giovanni (open Also of interest is the 13th-century
daily). Built in the 12th century, over a Palazzo dei Capitani, whose central
Roman temple, this beautiful building clocktower and façade are decorated
has a square base and an octagonal with reliefs and statues.
upper storey. The Palazzo Vescovile Head west along Corso Mazzini
on the other side of the Duomo to Piazza Sant Agostino 5 and its
houses the Museo Diocesano (open 13th-century Romanesque church.
Mon-Fri am, Sat & Sun pm) with a fine Across the square, Palazzo Merli’s
collection of religious art. In the twin towers recall a time when Ascoli
Palazzo Comunale, with its Baroque bristled with over 100 of them.
exterior, is the Pinocoteca Civica with Continue along Corso Mazzini. At the
15th- and 16th-century works by back of Sant’Agostino, the cloisters of
artists such as Crivelli, Titian, Reni, the old convent house the Galleria
Guercino and other masters. D’Arte Contemporanea 6, with a large
Exit the piazza by Via XX Settembre collection of modern Italian art. Turn
to Piazza Roma 3, a formal square right from the gallery, then left into
with palms and an imposing bronze Corso Mazzini to Piazza San Tomaso
statue commemorating the city’s war- and the Museo dell’Arte Ceramica 7.
dead. Turn right and cross the square Cross the square to Via del Pozzetto,
to either Via Panichi or Via Macello. turn left (back to Corso Mazzini) and
Both lead to Piazza del Popolo 4, finish at the 1st-century Porta Romana.
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €100; moderate, €100–€200; expensive, over €200
250-255_Back_Roads_Northern_Italy.indd 254 21/09/17 11:17 am

DRIVE 25: The Heart of Le Marche 255


Turn right into Corso di Sotto, which t Acquaviva Picena
leads into Via dei Soderini. This part of Ascoli Piceno, Le Marche; 63030
town has a medieval feel. Continue to The medieval fortress that still forms
Via Dei Lombardi and one of Ascoli’s the heart of this town dominates
oldest towers, Torre Ercolani 8. The the hillside to the west. Known as La
road leads to Via delle Stelle, along Rocca, it houses an ancient weapons
the city walls above the River Tronto. museum – the Museo delle Armi
A bit further on is one of the ancient Antiche (summer: open Tue–Sun). The
bridges into Ascoli, Ponte Solestà 9 walk through its ancient corridors
built in the 1st century. The gateway and the view from its battlements
and towers were built in the 13th are worth the price of entry.
century. Turning away from the river, ª Return along SP1 north, then turn
walk up Via Solestà, then left into Via right on SP32. Park in town.
delle Donne, which opens into Piazza
V Basso 0. Here, the Romanesque y Ripatransone
Chiesa dei SS Vincenzo e Anastasio Ascoli Piceno, Le Marche; 63038
has a façade divided into sections that On the highest point between the sea
once held frescoes of biblical scenes – and the mountains, Ripatransone had
it was called “La Bibbia dei Poveri” (the an advantage over its rivals. This is
Bible of the Poor). Continue along what generated the wealth that built
Via Cairoli and turn right into Via del the Palazzo del Podestà (1304) and
Trivio. On the right and behind San the Palazzo Comunale, which holds
Francesco is the old cloister, now documents in its archive dating back Above The tiled roof of the Chiesa di Santa
used for markets and performances. to 1216. Both buildings are in the main Lucia, Grottammare, looking out to sea
Turn right into Corso Mazzini and square, Piazza XX Settembre, known
retrace steps back to the car park. as the Belvedere del Piceno because EAT AND DRINK
ª Viale Indipendenza is the main road of its excellent views in all directions.
east, becoming SP235 to the coast. Turn ª Take SP23 to Grottammare. At the ASCOLI PICENO
left to Offida on SP43. Park in square. fourth hairpin bend, turn left into Via Migliori inexpensive
Cagliata. Park on the edge of town. This lively venue on Piazza Arringo
r Offida serves all the local delicacies, including
olive Ascolane – olives stuffed with
Ascoli Piceno, Le Marche; 63035 u Grottammare meat, coated in breadcrumbs and
On the approach to Offida, the Chiesa Ascoli Piceno, Le Marche; 63013 fried – as a takeaway snack.
di Santa Maria della Rocca appears as Originally built as a defensive bastion Piazza Arringo 2, 63100; 0736 250 042
though floating on the cliff face. The against raids from the sea, this tiny Cafe Lorenz moderate
church has an impressive Romanesque medieval fortress town now keeps Like Florian’s in Venice but not as costly.
façade. The crypt (open daily) runs the watch over legions of holiday-makers Attentive service, and a great location.
full length of the church and contains on the beach below. The town has Open late. Good for a drink or a meal.
Piazza del Popolo 5, 63100; 0736 259
14th-century frescoes attributed to two churches, a ruined fort with curvy 959; www.ristorantelorenzcafe.it
the Maestro di Offida. The centre of corbels and an excellent vantage
town is Piazza Vittorio Emmanuele II, point over the coast below. The GROTTAMMARE
given an elegant air by the arcades of Chiesa di Santa Lucia (open daily) is at Osteria dell’Arancio moderate
14th-century Palazzo Communale, a the northernmost tip of the old town. This well-regarded restaurant caters for
handsome building with a clock tower. The Chiesa di San Giovanni Battista discerning diners with good fish and
meat dishes and excellent wines.
ª Head east on SP1, follow signs for now houses the Museo Sisto di Piazza Peretti 1; 0735 631 059;
Acquaviva Picena. Park near town walls. Grottammare (summer: open Mon–Sun). evenings only; closed Wed
DAY TRIP OPTIONS Take SP16 to Osimo, then SP361 to Follow the drive’s instructions.
There are three distinct sections Montefano. SP82 , then SP77 to Loreto. Ascoli Piceno to the sea
to this drive: the lowlands, the Spend the morning touring Ascoli
mountains and the coast. Parco Nazionale dei Monti Sibillini
San Ginesio 9 is a good base from Piceno e, pick up some food and
The lowlands around Loreto which to explore the national park. follow the drive to Ripatransone y –
From Renaissance Loreto 1, it is a Drive to Sarnano 0 to visit the ski stopping for a scenic picnic along the
short drive for history buffs to Osimo resort Sassotetto, either for skiing in way. Head on to for Grottammare u
3 with its Roman fountain and walls winter or walking in summer. Head on for some time on the beach.
and labyrinth of catacombs. A visit to to Montefortino q for Renaissance Follow the drive’s instructions, missing
the tower of Montefano 4 will art, then on to Montemonaco w out Acquaviva Picena. Return via A14
intrigue budding military historians. for a short climb and great views. and RA11, if pressed for time.

Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€45; expensive, over €45


250-255_Back_Roads_Northern_Italy.indd 255 21/09/17 11:17 am

256 BACK ROADS NORTHERN AND CENTRAL ITALY

General Index

Page numbers in bold refer to main Borzonasca 154, 155 Cattedrale di San Venanzio (Fabriano) 233
entries Il Bosco della Mesola 136, 137 Cattedrale Santa Maria Assunta (Fano) 245
Bra 43 Cattedrale di Santa Maria Vergine
A Brenta Canal 120 (Saluzzo) 44
Abbadia di Fiastra 252 Brescia 70, 71 Cattedrale di Santi Gervasio e Protasio
Abbadia San Salvatore 194 Bressanone (Brixen) 92–3 (Città della Pieve) 201
Abbazia di Novacella (Neustift) 92, 93 Brunate 63 Cavour, Count Camillo 42–3
Abbazia di Pomposa 136–7 Brunico (Bruneck) 95 Cetona 200, 201
Abbazia di Praglia 119 Buonconvento 186 Chianti Hills 170–7
Abbazia di San Cassiano (Narni) 222 Burri, Alberto 230 Chianti Sculpture Park (Pievasciata) 176,
Abbazia di San Fruttuoso 152 Byron, Lord 147 177
Abbazia di San Pietro in Valle 215 Chiusdino 187
Abbazia di Vallombrosa 164–5 C Cima Grappa 128
Acceglio 46 Cagli 232 Cinque Terre 147, 156–9
accomodation 22–3 Camáldoli 167 Cinque Torri 126–7
Acquaviva Picena 255 Camogli 152, 153 Cistercians Architecture 253
Agriturismi 22, 23 Campello sul Clitunno 213 Città di Castello 230, 231
Alba 42, 43 Cannobio 54, 55 Città della Pieve 200, 201
Alpe di Siusi (Seiser Alm) 102, 103 Cantina Comunale di La Morra 43 Civici Musei di Udine (Udine) 109
Alpi Giulie 106, 107, 108 Caprese Michelangelo 168, 169 Cividale del Friuli 110, 111
Alto Adige Valleys 86–95 Carpegna 242 Clusone 68, 69
Andersen, Hans Christian 155 Carsulae 222–3 Cogne 34, 35
Anghiari 169 Casa Cavassa (Saluzzo) 45 Col du Mont Cenis 36
Antonello da Messina 33 Casa di Colombo (Genoa) 144 Colle di Val d’Elsa 184
Aosta 34, 35 Casa del Fascio (Como) 60 Orientali 110, 111
Apennines 226–35 Casa del Mantegna (Mantova) 85 Collio: Strada del Vino 110–11
Ligurian 150, 153–5, 159 Casa dei Nani (Orta San Giulio) 52 Colma 63
Aquileia 112, 113 Casa Natale di Raffaello (Urbino) 243 Colpetrazzo 224
Arabba 102 Casa di Petrarca (Arquà di Petrarca) 119 Columbus, Christopher 144
Arcevia 234 Casa Romana (Spoleto) 214 Comacchio 136, 137, 138
Arcidosso 192–3 Casa Romei (Ferrara) 134 Como 60, 61
Arco 75 Casa di Tiziano (Pieve di Cadore) 127 Cormòns 110, 111
Arcumeggia 55 Casalzuigno 55 Corniglia 156, 157
Arezzo 204, 205 Cascate delle Marmore 221 Cortina d’Ampezzo 126, 127
Argenta 138, 139 Casentino Forest 167 Cortona 204–5
Arno, River 166, 172, 174 Castel di Mezzo 244, 245 Corvara 102, 103
Arquà Petrarca 118, 119 Castel del Piano 192, 193 Courmayeur 36
Arrone 214, 215 Castel Prösels 103 Cristo degli Abissi 152
Ascoli Piceno 254–5 Castel Roncolo (Schloss Runkelstein) 101 Cuneo 46, 47
Asolo 128, 129 Castel Tirolo (Schloss Tirol) 91 Cupramontana 234–5
Assisi 210, 211 Castelfiorentino 182, 183
Castelli di Jesi 234 D
B Castellina in Chinati 174, 175 d’Annunzio, Gabriele 82
B&Bs 22, 23 Castello di Brolio 176 Dante Aligheri 139, 166, 244, 245
Bacchelli, Riccardo 135 Castello di Duino 104–5, 112 della Robbia, Luca and Andrea 168, 195
Bagni San Filippo 194, 195 Castello di Mesola 136, 137 Dolomites 86–103, 122–9
Bai de Dones 126 Castello di Rivoli 37 Domodossola 53
Barbaresco 42, 43 Castello di Romena 166 Dronero 46, 47
Bardolino 83 Castello Torrechiara 145 Duino 112, 113
Barolo 42, 43 Castelmuzio 203 Duomo (Belluno) 128
Basilica di San Vitale (Ravenna) 130–1, 139 Castiglion Fiorentino 204, 205 Duomo (Bolzano) 100
Basilica di Superga (Turin) 33 Castiglione d’Orcia 192, 193 Duomo (Como) 60
Bassano del Grappa 128–9 Cattedrale (Asolo) 129 Duomo (Mantova) 85
Bellagio 60, 61 Cattedrale (Urbino) 243 Duomo (Montagnana) 118
Belluno 128, 129 Cattedrale dell’Assunta (Orvieto) 200 Duomo (Montepulciano) 202
Berceto 144, 145 Cattedrale San Giusto (Susa) 37 Duomo (Padova) 119
Bergamo 68–9 Cattedrale San Giusto (Trieste) 113 Duomo (Parma) 146
Bevagna 212, 213 Cattedrale di San Leopardo (Osimo) 250 Duomo (Emilia) 146
Biella 34, 35 Cattedrale di San Lorenzo (Alba) 42 Duomo (Salò) 82
Bolzano (Bozen) 100–1 Cattedrale di San Lorenzo (Genoa) 144 Duomo (San Miniato) 182
Bonassola 156 Cattedrale di San Lorenzo (Perugia) 210 Duomo (Spoleto) 214
Borro 174, 175 Cattedrale di San Rufino (Assisi) 211 Duomo (Udine) 109
Borromean Islands (Maggiore) 50, 53 Cattedrale di San Settimio (Jesi) 235 Duomo (Volterra) 183




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Date 02 November 2009
Size 145mm x 217mm

General Index 257

Duomo San Emiliano (Trevi) 213 Hermitage of Montesiepi 187 Menaggio 61
Duomo di San Moderanno (Berceto) 145 Hofer, Andreas 91 Merano (Meran) 90, 91
Duomo di San Romulo di Fiesole 164 Holy Mount of San Vivaldo 182 Messner, Reinhold 95
Duomo di Sant Emidio (Ascoli Piceno) 254 Michelangelo Buonarroti 162, 169, 185
Duomo di Santa Maria Annunziata (Todi) I MMM Ripa at Brunico 95
225 Iseo 70, 71 Monastery of Camáldoli 167
Duomo di Santa Maria Assunta (Cividale Isola Bella (Maggiore) 53 Montagnana 118, 119
del Friuli) 110 Isola Madre (Maggiore) 53 Monte Amiata 188–95
Duomo di Sant’Andrea Apostolo Isola dei Pescatori (Maggiore) 53 Monte Bianco 36
(Venzone) 109 Isola di San Giulio (Orta) 52 Monte Grappa 124, 128, 129
Issogne 34 Monte Isola (Iseo) 70–1
E Monte Lussari 106, 108
Eagle of Todi 225 J Monte Mottarone 53
Elva 45 Jesi 234, 235 Monte Oliveto Maggiore (Siena) 185
Emilia-Romagna 130–9, 142–7, 238–42 Juliet’s House (Verona) 118 Montecassiano 251
Erbusco 70, 71 Juvarra, Filippo 33, 37 Montefano 251
Eremo di Camáldoli 167 Montefeltro Mountains 236–45
Eremo delle Carceri (Assisi) 212 K Montefortino 253
Eremo di Fonte Avellana 232 Kreuzgang (Bressanone) 92 Montelaterone 192
Este 118 Monteleone d’Orvieto 200, 201
Etruscans 200, 201, 203, 204, 210 L Montemonaco 252, 253
Euganean Hills 118, 119 La Morra 42, 43 Montepulciano 202, 203
Exilles 36–7 La Spezia 146, 147 Monteriggioni 184, 185
La Thuile 36 Monterosso al Mare 156–7
F La Verna 168, 169 Monteverdi 85
Fabriano 233 Labro 221 Monti Sibillini 252–3
Fano 244, 245 Ladin language 103 Montisi 202, 203
Fegina 157 Lagazuoi (Lagació) 102 Il Mulino del Po (Ro) 135
Feltre 128, 129 Laghi di Fusine 108 Musei Civici (Reggio Emilia) 146
Fénis 34–5 Lago di Brugneto 154 Musei Provinciali (Gorizia) 111
Ferentillo 214, 215 Lago di Como 56–63 Museo dell’Accademia Etrusca e della
Ferrara 134–5 Lago di Corbara 225 Città di Cortona 204
Ficulle 200, 201 Lago di Garda 72–83 Museo Alpino Duca degli Abruzzi
Fiesole 164, 165 Lago d’Iseo 66, 70–1 (Courmayeur) 36
Fiorenzuola di Focara 245 Lago Maggiore 48–55 Museo Amedeo Lia (La Spezia) 147
Fontanigorda 154, 155 Lago Maggiore Express 53, 55 Museo Archeologico (Bolzano) 100
food Lago d’Orta 50, 52–3 Museo Archeologico del Chianti
Piemonte 34, 42 Lago della Rovina 47 (Castellina in Chianti) 175
Toscana 175, 176 Langhirano 145 Museo Archeologico Nazionale (Aquiléia)
Tyrolean 93 Laveno 51 112
Franciacorta 66, 67, 71 Lawrence, DH 77 Museo Archeologico Nazionale (Cividale
Francis of Assisi, St 168, 211, 212, 213 Lazise 83 del Friuli) 110
Friuli-Venezia Giulia 104–13 Lazzaretti, David 193 Museo Archeologico Nazionale (Parma)
Leonardo da Vinci 172, 174 146
G Leonessa 220, 221 Museo delle Armi Antiche (Acquaviva
Gallo Nero 177 Levanto 156, 157 Picena) 255
Gargnano 76–7 Lewis, CS 223 Museo dell’Arte Ceramica (Ascoli Piceno)
Genga 233 Locarno 53 254
Genoa (Genova) 144–5 Lippi, Filippino 168 Museo d’Arte Contemporanea (Castello di
Geoparc Bletterbach 100, 101 Lippi, Fra Filippo 214 Rivoli) 37
Giotto 119 Loreto 250, 251 Museo d’Arte Sacra (Buonconvento) 186
Golfo dei Poeti 142, 147 Loro Ciuffenna 174 Museo della Carta (Fabriano) 233
Gorizia 111 Lucignano 202, 203 Museo Civico (Bassano del Grappa) 129
Gradara 244, 245 Museo Civico (Belluno) 128
Grancia di Cuna 186, 187 M Museo Civico (Cuneo) 47
Grand Canal (Venice) 116, 120, 121 Macerata 250, 251 Museo Civico (Gubbio) 230
Greve in Chianti 174, 175 Malborghetto 108–9 Museo Civico (Lucignano) 203
Grinzane Cavour 42–3 Manarola 158, 159 Museo Civico (Saluzzo) 45
Grottammare 254, 255 La Manifattura dei Marinati (Comacchio) Museo Civico Archeologico (Sarteano)
Grotte di Frasassi 233 133, 137, 139 201
Grotto of St Francis (Assisi) 212 Mantegna, Andrea 84, 85 Museo Civico Archeologico (Verucchio)
Gubbio 230–1 Mantua (Mantova) 84–5 240
Le Marche 228–9, 232–5, 236–9, 242–5, Museo Civico d’Arte Antica (Turin) 33
H 246–55 Museo Civico e Gipsoteca (Savigliano) 44
Hannibal 30, 36 Massa Martana 224 Museo Civico Luigi Mallé (Dronero) 46





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258 BACK ROADS NORTHERN AND CENTRAL ITALY


Museo Civilità dell’Ulivo (Trevi) 213 Parco dell’Antola 154 Pinacoteca and Museo Civico (Volterra)
Museo Comunale di Bevagna 212 Parco Archeologico (Volterra) 183 183
Museo Diocesano (Ascoli Piceno) 254 Parco Arciducale Arboreto (Arco) 75 Pinturicchio 185, 214
Museo Diocesano (Cortona) 204 Parco dell’Aveto 154 Pius II, Pope 202
Museo Diocesano (Gubbio) 230–1 Parco Fluviale del Tevere 225 Po Delta 130–9
Museo Diocesano (Jesi) 235 Parco Giardino Sigurtà (Valeggio sul Ponte degli Alpini (Bassano del Grappa)
Museo Diocesano (Udine) 109 Mincio) 84, 85 128
Museo Egizio (Turin) 33 Parco Monteguarnieri (Montemonaco) Ponte Buriano 174, 175
Museo Etnografico (Malborghetto) 109 253 Ponte del Diavolo (Dronero) 46
Museo Etnografico (Sampeyre) 45 Parco Minerario (Abbadia San Salvatore) Ponte di Rialto (Venice) 120, 121
Museo Etrusco Guarnacci (Volterra) 183 194 Ponte di Rualan 127, 129
Museo della Farmacia (Bressanone) 93 Parco Naturale Fanes-Sennes-Braies 103 Ponte Solestà (Ascoli Piceno) 255
Museo Gaffoglio (Rapallo) 153 Parco Naturale del Mont Avic 34 Ponte di Tiberio (Rimini) 240
Museo del Giocattolo (Bra) 43 Parco Naturale Monte San Bartolo 244 Ponte delle Torri (Spoleto) 214
Museo Glauco Lombardi (Parma) 146 Parco Naturale Sasso Simone e Ponte Visconteo (Valeggio sul Mincio) 84
Museo Marinaro (Camogli) 152 Simoncello 242 Poppi 168, 169
Museo del Merletto (Rapallo) 153 Parco Nazionale Campo dei Fiore 55 Porta all’Arco (Volterra) 183
Museo della Mezzadria Senese Parco Nazionale delle Cinque Terre 156 Porto Garibaldi 137
(Buonconvento) 186 Parco Nazionale delle Dolomiti Bellunesi Porto to Pieve: SP38 (Garda) 75
Museo delle Mummie (Ferentillo) 215 128 Portofino 152–3
Museo Nazionale Atestino (Este) 118 Parco Nazionale del Gran Paradiso 35 Pré-Saint-Didier 36
Museo Nazionale del Cinema (Turin) 32 Parco Nazionale delle Incisoni Rupestri 70 Portovenere 146, 147
Museo Nazionale di Ravenna 139 Parco Nazionale dei Monti Sibillini 255 Punta della Dogana (Venice) 121
Museo Nazionale della Rocca (Gradara) Parco Nazionale dello Stelvio 88, 90 Punto Bonfiglio 158
244 Parco Regionale del Delta del Po 136 Pyramids of Zone 70
Museo del Parco (Portofino) 153 Parma 146, 147
Museo del Prosciutto (Langhirano) 145 Passo dell’Erbe (Würzjoch) 94, 95 Q
Museo di Santa Giulia (Brescia) 71 Passo Gardena (Grödner Joch) 103 Quadrilatero (Turin) 33
Museo di Sant’Agostino (Genoa) 144 Passo di Monte Giovo (Jaufenpass) 92
Museo del Settecento Veneziano Passo Pordoi 102 R
(Venice) 121 Pecorino di Pienza 203 Radda in Chianti 176, 177
Museo del Sigillo (La Spezia) 147 Pedavena 128 Radicofani 194, 195
Museo Sisto di Grottammare 255 Peggy Guggenheim Collection (Venice) Rapallo 152, 153
Museo di Storia, Arte e Ammobiliamento 121 Raphael 243
(Turin) 32 Pennabilli 242 Ratti abbey and wine museum
Museo Storia Naturale (Verona) 118 Pentema 154 (Annunziata) 43
Museo Tecnico Navale (La Spezia) 147 Pergolesi, Giovanni Battista 235 Ravenna 138, 139
Museo del Tesoro (Aosta) 35 Perugia 210–11 Reggio Emilia 146
Museo delle Valli (Argenta) 138 Perugina Museo (Perugia) 211 restaurants 24–5
Museo del Vino (Bardolino) 83 Perugino 201, 210 Rieti 220, 221
Museum Passeier (Val Passiria) 91 petrol 18 Rimini 240
Mussolini, Benito 82, 83 Pfaundlerhaus (Bressanone) 93 Riomaggiore 158–9
pharmacies 12 Ripatransone 254, 255
N piadina 243 Riserva Naturale Ciciu del Villar 46
Napoleon 36 Pian di Scò 174 Risorgimento 83
Narni 222, 223 Pian del Tiviano 63 Riva del Garda 75
Narnia 223 Piancastagnaio 193 Riva del Vin (Venice) 120
Nesso 63 Piantravigne 174 Riviera del Brenta 120, 121
Nevegal 127 Piazzetta dei Mondagli (Saluzzo) 45 Roman amphitheatre (Susa) 37
Piediluco 221 Roman arena (Verona) 116, 118, 121
O Piedmont 28, 34 Roman theatre (Gubbio) 230
Offida 255 Pienza 202, 203 Romano, Giulio 85
Orta San Giulio 52–3 Piero della Francesca 205, 243 Rosengarten mountain range 102
Orvieto 200, 201 Pietralunga 230
Osimo 250, 251 Pietrarubbia 242–3 S
Ötzi the Ice Man 91, 95, 100 Pieve 75–6 Sabines 218, 220
Pieve di Cadore 127 Sacri Monti 53
P La Pieve di Lamula 192 Sacro Monte (Varese) 55
Padua (Padova) 118, 119 Pieve di San Pietro di Romena 166 Sacro Monte di Francesco (Orta) 53
zina di Caccia di Stupinigi (Turin) Pieve di Santa Maria Assunta (Stia) 167 Sacro Monte di Ossuccio (Como) 60–1
32 Pieve delle Sante Flora e Lucilla (Santa Sacro Monte della SS Trinità di
Palladio, Andrea 116, 120 Fiora) 193 Ghiffa 54
panforte, Sienese 185 Pieve to Tignale Road 76 Salò 82, 83
Paradisino (Vallombrosa) 165 Pinacoteca Civica (Ascoli Piceno) 254 Saluzzo 44–5
Parco delle Alpi Marittime 47 Pinacoteca Comunale (Jesi) 235 Sampeyre 45




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Date 02 November 2009
Size 145mm x 217mm

General Index 259


San Carlone (Arona) 52 Susa 37 Val di Fassa 102
San Casciano dei Bagni 194, 195 Synagogue and Jewish Museum (Ferrara) Val di Fiemme 101
San Fruttuoso 152 134 Val di Funes (Villnöss) 94
San Galgano Abbey 187 Val Gardena (Grödnertal) 103
San Gémini 222, 223 T Val Passiria (Passeiertal) 91, 92
San Gesù (Genoa) 144, 147 Tarvisio 108, 109 Val San Cassiano 102, 103
San Gimignano 184, 185 Tempietto del Clitunno 213 Val Senales (Schnalstal) 90, 91
San Ginesio 252, 253 Terme Pré-Saint-Didier 36 Val d’Ultimo (Ultental) 90
San Leo 242, 243 Terme San Filippo 195 Valassina 63
San Lorenzo (Turin) 32, 33 Terme di Valdieri 47
San Marino, Republic of 240–1 Terminillo 220, 221 Valbruna 108
San Martino della Battaglia 82, 83 Thun, Matteo 90 Valeggio sul Mincio 84
San Miniato 182, 183 Tiepolo, Giambattista 68, 109, 120 Valle d’Aosta 30, 34–6
San Vigilio (Vigiljoch) 90, 91 Tignale 76 Valle Maira 40, 41, 45, 47
San Vito di Cadore 127 Titian 124, 127, 129 Valle di Susa 36–7
Santa Fiora 192, 193 Tober, River 225 Valle Varaita 40, 41, 45, 47
Santarcangelo di Romagna 240, 241 Todi 224–5 Valli di Comacchio 138
Santi Antonio e Jacopo (Fontanigorda) Tomb of Dante (Ravenna) 139 Vallombrosa Forest 164–5
155 Tor Cucherna (Trieste) 113 Valsanzibio 119
Santi Cosma e Damiano (Carsulae) 223 Törggelen 94 Varenna 62–3
Santi Ippolito e Biagio (Castelfiorentino) Torre Apponale (Riva del Garda) 74, 75 Varese 54, 55
182 Torri 186–7 Vecchia Regina: the SP71 (Como) 60
Santi Pietro e Andrea (Trequanda) 203 Torri del Benaco 82–3 Veneto 80–5, 102, 114–29
Santi Pietro e Paolo (Sampeyre) 45 Torriglia 152, 153 Venice 120–1
Santo Spirito (Gorizia) 111 Torrione (Cagli) 232 Venzone 109
Santo Stefano (Ferentillo) 215 Toscana 160–99, 201–5 Verbania 54–5
Santuario della del Ghisallo (Bellagio) 63 Tower of Frederick (San Miniato) 182
Santuario della Madonna delle Grazie Trauttmansdorff castle (Merano) 90 Vernazza 157
(near Arcidosso) 192 Tre Sassi Fort 102, 103 Verona 118, 119
Santuario della Madonna di Tree of the Birds (Assisi) 212 Verucchio 240, 241
Montecastello (Tignale) 76 Vetro In (Ficulle) 200
Santuario di Montallegro (Rapallo) 153 Tremosine 74, 75 Via Acquedotto (Perugia) 210
Trentino 75
Santuario Monte Lussari (Valbruna) Treponti Bridge (Comacchio) 137 Via Francigena 184, 185, 186, 213
108 Via Sette Ponti 174, 175
Santuario di Montenero (Riomaggiore) Trequanda 203 Victor Salvi Harp Museum (Piasco) 45
159 Trevi 212, 213 Villa Balbianello (Lenno) 61
Santuario della Santissima Pietà Treviso 129 Villa Russiz (Friuli) 111, 113
(Cannobio) 54 Trieste 112–13 Il Vittoriale degli Italiani (Gardone) 82
Santuario della Verna 168, 169 Turin 32–3 Vittorio Amedeo, Duke of Savoy 33, 44
Sarnano 253 U Vittorio Emanuele II 35
Sarteano 201 Udine 108, 109 Volpaia 176, 177
Sass Pordoi 102 Volterra 182, 183
Sassocorvaro 243 Umbria 197–201, 206–25, 228–31
Sassoferrato 232, 233 Urbino 242, 243 W
Sassotetto 253 Urbisaglia 252, 253 WiMu (Barolo) 43, 47
Savigliano 44 Urbs Salvia (Urbisaglia) 252
Savonarola, Girolamo 135 V Wine Label Museum (Cupramontana) 235
Scheggino 214 Z
Sciacchetrà Museum (Manarola) 158 Val d’Arno & Chianti Hills 172–7
Second Tower (San Marino) 240 Val Camonica 70 Zone 70
Sentiero Azzuro (Cinque Terre) 156 Val Cannobina 50, 51, 54 Zoo (Poppi) 168
Serra de’ Conti 234
Sestri Levante 154, 155
Siena 184–5
Signorelli, Luca 204 The information in this
Sirmione 82, 83 DK Eyewitness Travel Guide is checked regularly.
Sirolo 250, 251 Even though every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up-to-date
Slow Food movement 40, 42 as possible at the time of going to press. Some details, however, such as telephone
Spello 212, 213 numbers, opening hours, prices, gallery hanging arrangements and travel information
Spoleto 214, 215 are liable to change. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for any consequences
arising from the use of this book, nor for any material on third-party websites, and
Spontini, Gaspare 235 cannot guarantee that any website address in this book will be a suitable source
Stia 166–7 of travel information. We value the views and suggestions of our readers very highly.
Strada del Vino (Alto Adige) 101 Please write to: Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel Guides, Dorling Kindersley, 80 Strand,
Stresa 52, 53 London WC2R 0RL, UK or email: [email protected].
Stroppo 46, 47




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260 BACK ROADS NORTHERN AND CENTRAL ITALY

Acknowledgments

Dorling Kindersley would like to thank the many people Editorial Assistance
whose help and assistance contributed to the preparation Chris Barstow, Hugh Thompson, Debra Wolter
of this book.
Revisions Team
Contributors Umesh Aggarwal, Avanika, Subhashree Bharati, Cristina
Gillian Arthur has been living in Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Dainotto, Federico Damonte, Sarah Fraser, Bharti Karakoti,
running wine and walking tours for almost a decade. She Sumita Khatwani, Priyanka Kumar, Suresh Kumar, Bhavika
works as a wine educator when she is not leading walking Mathur, Alison McGill, George Nimmo, Kenan Özyurt, Sands
tours in Italy and France. Publishing Solutions, Marcella Simoni, Solveig Steinhardt,
Kate Hughes loves travel, the arts and food and wine, so Jo-Ann Titmarsh, Ajay Verma, Penny Walker
has found her perfect metier in writing and contributing to
guides (including Rough Guides and Fodor’s) on Italy, Photographers
where she returns as often as possible. Anna Mockford and Nick Bonetti, James Tye, Christine Webb
Gillian Price, based in glorious Venice, is a travel writer and Additional Photography
outdoor enthusiast. Besides authoring walking guides, she Dan Bannister, Demetrio Carrasco, Steve Gorton, John
has been writing for magazines and Dorling Kindersley Heseltine, Paul Harris and Anne Heslope, Roger Moss, Kim
guides to Italy for many years. Sayer, Helena Smith, Rough Guides: James McConnachie
Lucy Ratcliffe has been writing about the Italian Lakes for Maps
over a decade. She lived in Milan for three years and now Cartographic Production
shares her time between Bergamo and Barcelona. Lovell Johns Ltd, www.lovelljohns.com
Christine Webb, a former art director, designer and Source Data
magazine designer, has worked in Sydney and Bangkok. Base mapping supplied by Kartographie Huber, www.
She left her native Australia in 2000 for Italy, where she kartographie.de
works as a freelance journalist, photographer and artist.
Elevation Data
Marius Webb is a former radio broadcaster and producer SRTM data courtesy of ESRI
based in Tuscany. With Christine, he has contributed to a
number of travel guides as a freelance writer including Best Picture Credits
of Tuscany 2008 and Time Out Italy 2008. The Publishers would like to thank the following for their
kind permission to reproduce their photographs:
Celia Woolfrey is a journalist living in London. Besides
writing for The Guardian, Time Out and Rough Guides, she (Key: a-above; b-below/bottom; c-centre; f-far; l-left; r-right; t-top)
has also authored several Eyewitness Travel guides to Italy
for Dorling Kindersley. akg-images: 26-7. Alamy Images: Garry Gay 13tl; Hackenberg-
Fact checker Janice Jones Photo-Cologne 110tl; LOOK Die Bildagentur der Fotografen GmbH
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Senior Editors Michelle Crane, Georgina Palffy Jacket
Production Controller Linda Dare Front: Corbis: Frank Lukasseck; Back: Dorling Kindersley:
Picture Researcher Ellen Root Anna Mockford and Nick Bonetti c, James Tye cr, Christine
Senior DTP Designer Jason Little Webb cl; Spine: Corbis: Frank Lukasseck.
Special Assistance All other images © Dorling Kindersley
Rosie Whitehouse, Maria Pevere For further information see: www.dkimages.com
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260-262_Back_Roads_Northern_Italy.indd 260 21/09/17 2:44 pm
LAYERS PRINTED:
“UK” LAYER

Phrase Book 261

Phrase Book

IN AN EMERGENCY MAKING A TELEPHONE CALL
Help! Aiuto! eye-yoo-toh I’d like to place a Vorrei fare vor-ray far-eh oona
Stop! Fermate! fair-mah-teh long-distance call. una interurbana. in-tair-oor-bah-nah
Call a Chiama un kee-ah-mah oon I’d like to make Vorrei fare una vor-ray far-eh oona
doctor. medico meh-dee-koh a reverse-charge telefonata a carico teh-leh-fon-ah-tah ah
Call an Chiama un’ kee-ah-mah oon call. del destinatario. kar-ee-koh dell dess-
ambulance. ambulanza am-boo-lan-tsa tee-nah-tar-ree-oh
Call the Chiama la kee-ah-mah lah I’ll try again later. Ritelefono più ree-teh-leh-foh-noh
police. polizia pol-ee-tsee-ah tardi. pee-oo tar-dee
Call the fire Chiama i kee-ah-mah ee Can I leave a Posso lasciare poss-oh lash-ah-reh
brigade. pompieri pom-pee-air-ee message? un messaggio? oon mess-sah-joh?
Where is the Dov’è il telefono? dov-eh eel teh-leh- Hold on. Un attimo, oon ah-tee-moh,
telephone? foh-noh? per favore pair fah-vor-eh
The nearest L’ospedale loss-peh-dah-leh-pee- Could you speak Può parlare più pwoh par-lah-reh
hospital? più vicino? oo vee-chee-noh? up a little please? forte, per favore? pee-oo for-teh, pair
fah-vor-eh?
COMMUNICATION ESSENTIALS local call telefonata locale te-leh-fon-ah-tah
loh-cah-leh
Yes/No Si/No see/noh
Please Per favore pair fah-vor-eh SHOPPING
Thank you Grazie grah-tsee-eh
It’s a pleasure Prego preh-goh How much Quant’è, kwan-teh
Excuse me Mi scusi mee skoo-zee does this cost? per favore? pair fah-vor-eh?
Hello Buon giorno bwon jor-noh I would like … Vorrei … vor-ray
Goodbye Arrivederci ah-ree-veh-dair-chee Do you have …? Avete …? ah-veh-teh…?
Good evening Buona sera bwon-ah sair-ah I’m just looking. Sto soltanto stoh sol-tan-toh
morning la mattina lah mah-tee-nah guardando. gwar-dan-doh
afternoon il pomeriggio eel poh-meh-ree-joh Do you take Accettate ah-chet-tah -teh kar-teh
Evening la sera lah sair-ah credit cards? carte di credito? dee creh-dee-toh?
yesterday ieri ee-air-ee What time do A che ora apre/ ah keh or-ah
today oggi oh-jee you open/close? chiude? ah-preh/kee-oo-deh?
tomorrow domani doh-mah-nee this one questo kweh-stoh
here qui kwee that one quello kwell-oh
there la lah expensive caro kar-oh
What? Quale? kwah-leh? cheap a buon prezzo ah bwon pret-soh
When? Quando? kwan-doh? size, clothes la taglia lah tah-lee-ah
Why? Perchè? pair-keh? size, shoes il numero eel noo-mair-oh
Where? Dove? doh-veh? white bianco bee-ang-koh
black nero neh-roh
USEFUL PHRASES red rosso ross-oh
yellow giallo jal-loh
How are you? Come sta? koh-meh stah? green verde vair-deh
Very well, Molto bene, moll-toh beh-neh blue blu bloo
thank you. grazie. grah-tsee-eh
Pleased to Piacere di pee-ah-chair-eh dee TYPES OF SHOP
meet you. conoscerla. coh-noh-shair-lah
See you later. A più tardi. ah pee-oo tar-dee antique dealer l’antiquario lan-tee-kwah-ree-oh
That’s fine. Va bene. va beh-neh bakery il forno eel forn-oh
Where is/are …? Dov’è/Dove sono …? dov-eh/doveh soh-noh? /il panificio /eel pan-ee-fee-choh
How long does Quanto tempo ci kwan-toh tem-poh bank la banca lah bang-kah
it take to get to …? vuole per chee voo-oh-leh pair bookshop la libreria lah lee-breh-ree-ah
andare a …? an-dar-eh ah …? butcher la macelleria lah mah-chell-eh-ree-ah
How do I Come faccio per koh-meh fah-choh cake shop la pasticceria lah pas-tee-chair-ee-ah
get to …? arrivare a …? pair arri-var-eh ah…? chemist la farmacia lah far-mah-chee-ah
Do you speak English? Parla inglese? par-lah een-gleh -zeh? delicatessen la salumeria lah sah-loo-meh-ree-ah
I don’t understand. Non capisco. non ka-pee-skoh department store il grande eel gran-deh
Could you speak Può parlare pwoh par-lah-reh magazzino mag-gad-zee-noh
more slowly, più lentamente, pee-oo len-ta-men-teh fishmonger il pescivendolo eel pesh-ee-ven-doh-loh
please? per favore? pair fah-vor-eh? greengrocer il fruttivendolo eel froo-tee-ven-doh-loh
I’m sorry. Mi dispiace. mee dee-spee-ah-cheh grocery alimentari ah-lee-men-tah-ree
hairdresser il parrucchiere eel par-oo-kee-air-eh
USEFUL WORDS ice-cream parlour la gelateria lah jel-lah-tair-ree-ah
market il mercato eel mair-kah-toh
big grande gran-deh newsstand l’edicola leh-dee-koh-lah
small piccolo pee-koh-loh post office l’ufficio postale loo-fee-choh pos-tah-leh
hot caldo kal-doh shoe shop il negozio di eel neh-goh-tsioh dee
cold freddo fred-doh scarpe skar-peh
good buono bwoh-noh supermarket il supermercato eel su-pair-mair-kah-toh
bad cattivo kat-tee-voh tobacconist il tabaccaio eel tah-bak-eye-oh
enough basta bas-tah travel agency l’agenzia di viaggi lah-jen-tsee-ah dee
well bene beh-neh vee-ad-jee
open aperto ah-pair-toh
closed chiuso kee-oo-zoh SIGHTSEEING
left a sinistra ah see-nee-strah
right a destra ah dess-trah art gallery la pinacoteca lah peena-koh-teh-kah
straight on sempre dritto sem-preh dree-toh bus stop la fermata lah fair-mah-tah
near vicino vee-chee-noh dell’autobus dell ow-toh-booss
far lontano lon-tah-noh church la chiesa lah kee-eh-zah
up su soo la basilica lah bah-seel-i-kah
down giù joo closed for chiuso per le kee-oo-zoh pair leh
early presto press-toh holidays ferie fair-ee-eh
late tardi tar-dee garden il giardino eel jar-dee-no
entrance entrata en-trah-tah library la biblioteca lah beeb-lee-oh-teh-kah
exit uscita oo-shee-ta museum il museo eel moo-zeh-oh
toilet il gabinetto eel gah-bee-net-toh railway station la stazione lah stah-tsee-oh-neh
free, unoccupied libero lee-bair-oh tourist l’ufficio loo-fee-choh
free, no charge gratuito grah-too-ee-toh information di turismo dee too-ree-smoh
260-262_Back_Roads_Northern_Italy.indd 261 21/09/17 2:43 pm

262 BACK ROADS NORTHERN AND CENTRAL ITALY

STAYING IN A HOTEL l’insalata leen-sah-lah-tah salad
il latte eel laht-teh milk
Do you have any Avete camere libere? ah-veh-teh kah- lesso less-oh boiled
vacant rooms? mair-eh lee-bair-eh? il manzo eel man-tsoh beef
double room una camera doppia oona kah-mair-ah la melanzana lah meh-lan-tsah-nah aubergine
doh-pee-ah la minestra lah mee-ness-trah soup
with double bed con letto kon let-toh mah-tree- l’olio loh-lee-oh oil
matrimoniale moh-nee-ah-leh il pane eel pah-neh bread
twin room una camera oona kah-mair-ah le patate leh pah-tah-teh potatoes
con due letti kon doo-eh let-tee le patatine fritte leh pah-tah-teen-eh chips
single room una camera oona kah-mair-ah free-teh
singola sing-goh-lah il pepe eel peh-peh pepper
room with a una camera oona kah-mair-ah la pesca lah pess-kah peach
bath, shower con bagno, kon ban-yoh, il pesce eel pesh-eh fish
con doccia kon dot-chah il pollo eel poll-oh chicken
porter il facchino eel fah-kee-noh il pomodoro eel poh-moh-dor-oh tomato
key la chiave lah kee-ah-veh il prosciutto eel pro-shoo-toh ham
I have a Ho fatto una oh fat-toh oona preh- cotto/crudo kot-toh/kroo-doh cooked/cured
reservation. prenotazione. noh-tah-tsee-oh-neh il riso eel ree-zoh rice
il sale eel sah-leh salt
EATING OUT la salsiccia lah sal-see-chah sausage
le seppie leh sep-pee-eh cuttlefish
Have you got Avete una tavola ah-veh-teh oona secco sek-koh dry
a table for…? per … ? tah-voh-lah pair …? la sogliola lah soll-yoh-lah sole
I’d like to Vorrei riservare vor-ray ree-sair-vah- gli spinaci lyee spee-nah-chee spinach
reserve a table. una tavola. reh oona tah-voh-lah succo d’arancia/ soo-koh dah-ran-chah/ orange/
breakfast colazione koh-lah-tsee-oh-neh di limone dee lee-moh-neh lemon juice
lunch pranzo pran-tsoh il tè eel teh tea
dinner cena cheh-nah la tisana lah tee-zah-nah herbal tea
The bill, Il conto, per eel kon-toh pair il tonno eel ton-noh tuna
please. favore. fah-vor-eh la torta lah tor-tah cake/tart
I am a vegetarian. Sono vegetariano/a. soh-noh veh-jeh-tar- l’uovo loo-oh-voh egg
ee-ah-noh/nah vino bianco vee-noh bee-ang-koh white wine
waitress cameriera kah-mair-ee-air-ah vino rosso vee-noh ross-oh red wine
waiter cameriere kah-mair-ee-air-eh il vitello eel vee-tell-oh veal
fixed price il menù a eel meh-noo ah le vongole leh von-goh-leh clams
menu prezzo fisso pret-soh fee-soh lo zucchero loh zoo-kair-oh sugar
dish of the day piatto del giorno pee-ah-toh dell jor-no gli zucchini lyee dzu-kee-nee courgettes
starter antipasto an-tee-pass-toh la zuppa lah dzu-pah soup
first course il primo eel pree-moh
main course il secondo eel seh-kon-doh NUMBERS
vegetables il contorno eel kon-tor-noh
dessert il dolce eel doll-cheh 1 uno oo-noh
cover charge il coperto eel koh-pair-toh 2 due doo-eh
wine list la lista dei lah lee-stah day 3 tre treh
vini vee-nee 4 quattro kwat-roh
rare al sangue al sang-gweh 5 cinque ching-kweh
medium al puntino al poon-tee-noh 6 sei say-ee
well done ben cotto ben kot-toh 7 sette set-teh
glass il bicchiere eel bee-kee-air-eh 8 otto ot-toh
bottle la bottiglia lah bot-teel-yah 9 nove noh-veh
knife il coltello eel kol-tell-oh 10 dieci dee-eh-chee
fork la forchetta lah for-ket-tah 11 undici oon-dee-chee
spoon il cucchiaio eel koo-kee-eye-oh 12 dodici doh-dee-chee
13 tredici tray-dee-chee
MENU DECODER 14 quattordici kwat-tor-dee-chee
15 quindici kwin-dee-chee
l’acqua minerale lah-kwah mee-nair- mineral water 16 sedici say-dee-chee
gassata/ ah-leh gah-zah-tah/ fizzy/ 17 diciassette dee-chah-set-teh
naturale nah-too-rah-leh still 18 diciotto dee-chot-toh
agnello ah-niell-oh lamb 19 diciannove dee-chah-noh-veh
aceto ah-cheh-toh vinegar 20 venti ven-tee
aglio al-ee-oh garlic 30 trenta tren-tah
al forno al for-noh baked 40 quaranta kwah-ran-tah
alla griglia ah-lah greel-yah grilled 50 cinquanta ching-kwan-tah
l’aragosta lah-rah-goss-tah lobster 60 sessanta sess-an-tah
arrosto ar-ross-toh roast 70 settanta set-tan-tah
la birra lah beer-rah beer 80 ottanta ot-tan-tah
la bistecca lah bee-stek-kah steak 90 novanta noh-van-tah
il brodo eel broh-doh broth 100 cento chen-toh
il burro eel boor-oh butter 1,000 mille mee-leh
il caffè eel kah-feh coffee 2,000 duemila doo-eh mee-lah
i calamari ee kah-lah-mah-ree squid 5,000 cinquemila ching-kweh mee-lah
i carciofi ee kar-choff-ee artichokes 1,000,000 un milione oon meel-yoh-neh
la carne la kar-neh meat
carne di maiale kar-neh dee mah-yah-leh pork TIME
la cipolla la chip-oh-lah onion
i contorni ee kon-tor-nee vegetables one minute un minuto oon mee-noo-toh
i fagioli ee fah-joh-lee beans one hour un’ora oon or-ah
il fegato eel fay-gah-toh liver half an hour mezz’ora medz-or-ah
il finocchio eel fee-nok-ee-oh fennel a day un giorno oon jor-noh
il formaggio eel for-mad-joh cheese a week una settimana oona set-tee-mah-nah
le fragole leh frah-goh-leh strawberries Monday lunedì loo-neh-dee
il fritto misto eel free-toh mees-toh mixed fried dish Tuesday martedì mar-teh-dee
la frutta la froot-tah fruit Wednesday mercoledì mair-koh-leh-dee
frutti di mare froo-tee dee mah-reh seafood Thursday giovedì joh-veh-dee
i funghi ee foon-ghee mushrooms Friday venerdì ven-air-dee
i gamberi ee gam-bair-ee prawns Saturday sabato sah-bah-toh
il gelato eel jel-lah-toh ice cream Sunday domenica doh-meh-nee-kah
260-262_Back_Roads_Northern_Italy.indd 262 21/09/17 2:43 pm
LAYERS PRINTED
LAYERS PRINTED
Back Roads
Back Roads LAYERS PRINTED:::
“UK” LAYER
“UK” LAYER
Section opener template “UK” LAYER
Catalogue Spread template
(OpenType)
(OpenType)
Date 11th April 2008
Date 27th October 2008
Size 145mm x 217mm
Size 145mm x 217mm
Font Myriad Pro

Driver’s Phrase Book 263

Driver’s Phrase Book

SOME COMMON ROAD SIGNS il secondo/la seconda a second on the left
sinistra
accendere i fari headlights on vada oltre … go past the …
attenzione watch out, caution
autostrada motorway (with toll) THINGS YOU’LL SEE
banchina non soft verge
transitabile acqua water
caduta massi falling rocks area di servizio service area
centro town centre aspirapolvere vacuum cleaner
code traffic ahead autolavaggio car wash
controllo automatico automatic speed monitor autorimessa garage (for repairs)
della velocità benzina petrol
cunetta o dosso ditch benzina senza piombo unleaded petrol
deviazione diversion benzina super 4-star petrol
disporsi su due file two-lane traffic casello autostradale motorway toll booth
divieto di accesso no entry cera per auto car wax
divieto di fermata no stopping code traffic queue
divieto di transito no thoroughfare deviazione diversion
dogana customs gasolio diesel oil
escluso residenti residents only gommista tyre repairs
fine del tratto end of motorway guidare a passo d’uomo drive at walking speed
autostradale liquido tergicristallo windscreen washer liquid
ghiaccio ice olio oil
incrocio junction raccordo autostradale motorway junction
incrocio pericoloso dangerous junction/ spegnere il motore turn off engine
crossroads spingere push
informazioni turistiche tourist information stazione di servizio service station
lavori in corso roadworks tirare pull
nebbia fog uscita exit
non oltrepassare no access vietato fumare no smoking
pagare qui pay here
parcheggio a parking on alternate days THINGS YOU’LL HEAR
giorni alterni
parcheggio paying car park Vuole una macchina con il cambio automatico
a pagamento o manuale?
parcheggio custodito car park with at tend ant Would you like an automatic or a manual?
parcheggio incustodito unattended car park
pedaggio toll Esibisca la patente, per favore?
pedoni pedestrians May I see your licence, please?
pericolo danger
pista ciclabile bicycle trail Mi fa vedere il passaporto, per favore?
rallentare reduce speed May I see your passport, please?
scuola school
senso unico one way USEFUL PHRASES
sosta vietata no parking
sottopassaggio subway Could you check the oil/water level, please?
strada a fondo cieco dead end Potrebbe controllare il livello dell’olio/dell’acqua, per favore?
strada camionabile route for heavy vehicles potreb-be kontrol-lare eel leevel-lo del ol-yo/del akwa pair
strada ghiacciata ice on road fah-vor-eh
strada statale main road
strada sdrucciolevole slippery road Fill it up, please!
strada secondaria secondary road Faccia il pieno, per favore!
uscita camion works exit facha eel p-yeno pair fah-vor-eh
veicoli lenti slow lane
zona a traffico limitato restricted traffic area I’d like 35 litres of 4-star petrol, please.
zona pedonale shopping centre Mi dia trentacinque litri di super, per favore.
mee dee-a trentacheenkwe leetree dee soopair pair fah-vor-eh
DIRECTIONS YOU MAY BE GIVEN
Do you do repairs?
a destra right Effettua riparazioni?
a sinistra left ef-fet-too-a reeparatz-yonee
dritto straight on
giri a destra turn right Can you repair the clutch?
giri a sinistra turn left Può ripararmi la frizione?
il primo/la prima a destra first on the right pwo reepararmee la freetz-yone




263-264_Back_Roads_Northern_Italy.indd 263 21/09/17 2:43 pm
LAYERS PRINTED
Back Roads LAYERS PRINTED::
Back Roads
“UK” LAYER
Section opener template “UK” LAYER
Catalogue Spread template
(OpenType)
(OpenType)
Date 11th April 2008
Date 27th October 2008
Size 145mm x 217mm
Size 145mm x 217mm
Font Myriad Pro

264 BACK ROADS NORTHERN AND CENTRAL ITALY


There is something wrong with the engine. USEFUL WORDS
C’è qualcosa che non va nel motore.
cheh kwalkoza ke non va nel motore automatic con il cambio kon eel kam-bee-o
automatico owtomateeko
The engine is overheating. bonnet il cofano kofano
Il motore si surriscalda. boot il portabagagli portabagal-yee
eel motore see soor-reeskalda brake il freno freh-no
breakdown il guasto gwa-sto
I need a new tyre. car l’automobile, ow-toh-moh-beeleh,
Ho bisogno di una gomma nuova. la macchina mak-keena
o beezon-yo dee oona gom-ma nwova car ferry il traghetto traget-to
car park il parcheggio parkej-jo
Can you replace this? clutch la frizione freetz-yone
Può sostituirlo? crossroads l’incrocio een-kro-cho
pwo sosteetoo-eerlo drive guidare gwee-dar-eh
engine il motore mo-tor-eh
The indicator is not working. exhaust lo scappamento skap-pamento
La freccia non funziona. fanbelt la cinghia cheeng-ya del-la
la frech-cha non foontz-yona della ventola ven-to-la
garage (for repairs) l’autorimessa ow-toh-ree-mes-sa
How long will it take? gear il cambio, kam-bee-o,
Quanto tempo ci vorrà? la marcia mar-cha
kwanto tempo chee vor-ra gears le marce mar-cheh
headlights i fari far-ee
Where can I park? indicator la freccia frech-cha
Dove posso parcheggiare? junction l’incrocio een-kro-cho
dove pos-so parkej-jare licence la patente pa-ten-teh
lorry il camion, kam-yon,
I’d like to hire a car. l’autocarro ow-toh-kar-ro
Vorrei noleggiare una macchina. manual con il cambio kon eel kam-bee-o
vor-ray nolej-jare oona mak-keena manuale man-wah-leh
mirror lo specchietto spekk-yet-to
I’d like an automatic/a manual. motorcycle la motocicletta moto-chee-klet-ta
Vorrei una macchina con il cambio automatico/manuale. motorway l’autostrada ow-toh-strada
vor-ray oona mak-keena kon eel kam-bee-o owtomateeko/ motorway entry raccordo di rak-kor-do dee
manwale entrata en-tra-ta
motorway exit raccordo di rak-kor-do dee
How much is it for one day? uscita oo-shee-ta
Quanto costa per un giorno? number plate la targa tar-ga
kwanto kosta pair oon jorno petrol la benzina bendz-eena
petrol station la stazione statz-yone dee
Is there a mileage charge? di servizio sair-veetz-yo
C’è un supplemento per il chilometraggio? rear lights i fari posteriori far-ee post-airy-oree
cheh oon soop-plemento pair eel keelometraj-jo ring road raccordo anulare rak-kordo anoolareh
road la strada stra-da
When do I have to return it? spare parts i pezzi di petzee dee
Quando devo riportarla? ricambio ree-kam-bee-o
kwando devo reeportarla spark plug la candela kan-deh-la
speed la velocità ve-loh-chee-ta
Where is the nearest petrol station? speed limit il limite lee-mee-teh dee
Dov’è la stazione di servizio più vicina? di velocità ve-loh-chee-ta
doveh la statz-yone dee sairveetz-yo p-yoo veecheena speedometer il tachimetro tak-ee-me-tro
steering wheel il volante vo-lan-teh
How do I get to …? traffic lights il semaforo seh-ma-foro
Come faccio per arrivare a …? trailer il rimorchio, ree-mork-yo,
koh-meh fah-choh pair arri-var-eh ah la roulotte roo-lot
transmission la scatola ska-toh-la del
Is this the road to …? del cambio kam-bee-o
È questa la strada per …? tyre la gomma gom-ma
eh kwesta la strada pair van il furgone foor-gon-eh
warning sign il triangolo tree-angolo
Which is the quickest way to …? wheel la ruota rw-oh-ta
Qual’ è la strada più breve per …? windscreen il parabrezza para-bretza
kwal eh la strada p-yoo breve pair windscreen wiper il tergicristallo tairjee-kreestal-lo








263-264_Back_Roads_Northern_Italy.indd 264 21/09/17 2:43 pm
Back Roads LAYERS PRINTED:
Catalogue Spread template “UK” LAYER
(OpenType)
Date 11th April 2008
Size 145mm x 217mm