DK Eyewitness: Back Roads Northern and Central Italy (Travel Guide)

DRIVE 3





Milan
Turin Venice
IT AL Y
Genoa Bologna
Florence
Perugia
Rome



Sacred

Mountains &

Island Palaces


San Carlone

to Varese


Highlights

• Lakeside gem
Relax at the enchanting lakeside
village of Orta San Giulio and explore
its pretty island and Sacro Monte
• Sacri Monti
Wander through small, tree-shaded
chapels on the Sacri Monti (Sacred
Mountains) and savour the quiet
• Borromean Islands
From Stresa, island-hop by ferry,
to tour the extravagant island
palaces with their lakeside gardens
and waterside restaurants
• Lago Maggiore Express
Enjoy a day trip via boat across
Lake Maggiore and on the private
Centovalli railway to stunning alpine
valleys and mountain towns


A view of the island of Isola Bella in
Lake Maggiore




BRNI_048-049_OpnDrv3.indd 49 27/10/11 5:47 PM

50 BACK ROADS NORTHERN AND CENTRAL ITALY

Sacred Mountains and Island Palaces

Popular in the 19th century as a stop on the Grand Tour, Lago Maggiore is a
beautiful stretch of water reaching north into Switzerland. Nearby, little Lago
d’Orta holds the bewitching village of Orta San Giulio with its magical island and
laid-back atmosphere. The resort of Stresa, with its grand hotels, is the departure
point for boats to the lavish palaces and gardens of the Borromean Islands. The Val Cannobina
Monte Cadringa
Val Cannobina
Cavaglio
area’s temperate climate sets the gardens ablaze with camellias, azaleas and Cavaglio CANNÓBIO Monte Cadringa
1300m
1300m
CANNÓBIO
Traffiume
rhododendrons. Above this perfect setting, the steep hillsides are dotted Traffiume
with extraordinary 17th-century chapels forming the Sacri Monti (Sacred
Mountains). Away from the lake, to the east, the little known town of Varese is Traregoego Maccagno
Maccagno
Trar
a fine discovery, with its pretty centre, country walks and top-class art gallery.
Cânnero
Cânnero
Dumenza
Dumenza
Auranoano
Aur
Intragna
Intragna
Oggebbio
Pa r cPa r c Oggebbio LuinoLuino
NazionaleNazionale PalaPala ÉsioÉsio
S.Giovaruu
Germignaga
delladella S.Bernardino Miazzina Germignaga
Miazzina
SACRO
Val Gr andeVal Gr ande S.Giovaruu Premeno SACRO
Premeno
MONTE DELLA
Mergozzo
Mergozzo Cambiasca MONTE DELLA
S.Bernardino
Cambiasca
SS TRINITÀ DI GHIFFA
Rovegro
Rovegro BeeBee SS TRINITÀ DI GHIFFA
L. diL. di
S. Bernardino
MergozzoMergozzo S. Bernardino
Verb. Verb. Ghiffa Ghiffa Porto Valtravaglia
Porto Valtravaglia
L a g o M a g g i o r e
Arizzanó
Montórfano
M. ÓrfanoM. Órfano Montórfano Trobaso Arizzanó
Trobaso
794m794m
Fondotoceoce Cavandone Selasca Mesenzana Val Val
Cavandone
Fondot
Selasca
Mesenzana
Castelveccana
Marchirolo
Pedemonte IntraIntra Castelveccana Marchirolo
Pedemonte
Fer
GravellonaGravellona Ferioloiolo Suna Suna L a g o M a g g i o r e
Casale Pallanza
Casale
Pallanza
Monte Colonna
Corte Cerro ToceToce VERBANIA Monte Nudo Monte Colonna Cunardo
Corte Cerro
VERBANIA
1198m
1198m
Cunardo
Monte Nudo
Strona Strona BavenoBaveno Isola Isola 1237m ARCUMEGGIA
1237m
ARCUMEGGIA
Rancio
Monte Piambello
Lav
Sasso del F
Granerolo
Montebúglio Granerolo Madre Madre Lavenoeno Sasso del Ferroerro Rancio Monte Piambello
Montebúglio
1123m
1123m
Valcúvia
Lóita Lóita Isola deiIsola dei 1062m Valcúvia
1062m
Germagno PescatoriPescatori CASALZUIGNO
CASALZUIGNO
Germagno
M. ZúcheroM. Zúchero Isola BellaIsola Bella Cerro Cerro
Cittilgio
Bedero
Cuveglio
Bedero
Crusinallo
Crusinallo 1230m1230m Campino Cittilgio Cuveglio Valcuvia
Campino
Valcuvia
STRESA
STRESA
Fracce
OmegnaOmegna Monte MottaroneMonte Mottarone Santa Caterina Fracce Brinzio
Santa Caterina
Brinzio
Strona
Strona
del Sasso
Ciréggio 1491m1491m del Sasso Gemonio Monte Martica
Ciréggio
Gemonio
Monte Martica
la Sacca
LOMBARDIA
1025m
Alpino
Alpino la Sacca Leggiuno 1025m
Leggiuno
alle Sale
Brisino alle Sale LOMBARDIA
Brisino
Gignese
Brolo Brolo Gignese Vezzo Vezzo Magognino Campo dei Fiori
Magognino
Campo dei Fiori
Carpugnino
1227m
Above Sailing in front of the terraced gardens of Isola Agranoano M. MazzaroneM. Mazzarone Carpugnino Arolo Arolo Monvalle 1227m Rasa di Arcisate
Rasa di
1146m1146m
Arcisate
Agr
Monvalle
Varese
Bella, see p53 Opposite People enjoying lunch at a PIEMONTEPIEMONTE Calogna Santa Mariaaria Varese
Santa M
Calogna
Belgirate
del Monte
lakeside restaurant next to Lake Orta see p52 L a g o d ' O r t a L a g o d ' O r t a Bássola Coiromonte Comgago Belgirate Besozzo Gavirateate Comério del Monte Induno Olona
Gavir
Besozzo
Coiromonte
Induno Olona
Bássola
Comério
Comgago
Sant’ Sant’
Amrogio
Grassona
Grassona Pettenasco Armeno M. CornaggiaM. Cornaggia Brebbia Casciago Amrogio
Pettenasco
Armeno
Brebbia
922m922m
Casciago
ACTIVITIES Egro Egro Agogna Agogna Lesa Lesa
Carcegna
Carcegna Ispra Ispra
Calcinate
Pisogno
Fosseno
Pella Pella Pisogno Fosseno Sólcio Sólcio Calcinate VARESE
VARESE
del Pesce
del Pesce
Biandronno
Explore the sleepy town of Orto San ORTA SAN GIÚLIO Nebbiuno Biandronno
Nebbiuno
ORTA SAN GIÚLIO
Quassa
Giulio and catch a boat to its island Isola SanIsola San Ranco Quassa Cadrezzate Lago diLago di Bobbiate
Ranco
VareseVarese
Cadrezzate
Bobbiate
Pisano
Colazza
GiulioGiulio Colazza Pisano Travedona
Travedona
Méina
Brabbia
Monate
Stride up steep hillsides to marvel at Lagna Lagna Ameno Dagnente Méina Lago diLago di Monate Brabbia
Ameno
Dagnente
MonateMonate
the chapels and the views from the San Maurizio Ghèvio Ternate Buguggiateiate
Ghèvio
Bugugg
Ternate
San Maurizio
region’s three Sacri Monti d'Opaglio Bolzano Montrigiasco Rocca Rocca AngeraAngera Galliate
Montrigiasco
Galliate
d'Opaglio
Bolzano
Lombardo
Novarese
Comabbio
Novarese Comabbio Lombardo
Sail across the waters to the Invórioório SAN CARLONE ChéglioChéglio
Inv
SAN CARLONE
splendid palaces and gardens on Bugnate Monticelli AronaArona TainoTaino Lago diLago di
Monticelli
Bugnate
the Borromean Islands GozzanoGozzano Paruzzaro ComabbioComabbio
Paruzzaro
Mercallo
Mercallo
Mercur
Mercuragoago
Corgeno
Walk or cycle up the Val Cannobina LisanzaLisanza Corgeno
to picnic by the Sant’Anna gorge. BrigaBriga TalonnoTalonno
NovareseNovarese
Dormelletto
Dormelletto S. Anna Sesto Calende
Sesto Calende
S. Anna
Enjoy a stroll past the colourful
blooms in the gardens at Villa Taranto
050-051_Back_Roads_Northern_Italy.indd 50 21/09/17 11:16 am

DRIVE 3: Sacred Mountains and Island Palaces 51

PLAN YOUR DRIVE
KEY
Drive route
Start/finish: San Carlone to Varese.
Number of days: 4–5 days, including
a day on Lago Maggiore and a day’s
activity exploring the Val Cannobina.
Distance: Approx 160 km (99 miles).
Monte Cadringa
Val Cannobina
Val Cannobina
Cavaglio
Cavaglio Monte Cadringa
1300m
1300m
CANNÓBIO
CANNÓBIO
Traffiume
Traffiume Road conditions: The higher roads
can be steep and winding, and often
have poor surfaces after icy winters.
Maccagno
Maccagno
Traregoego The lakeside roads are good, although
Trar
winding, and they get very busy in
Cânnero
Cânnero
summer, especially at weekends.
Use snow chains in winter.
Dumenza
Dumenza
Auranoano When to go: Easter–Jul and Sep are the
Aur
Intragna
Intragna
Oggebbio
Pa r cPa r c Oggebbio LuinoLuino best months to avoid the summer
NazionaleNazionale PalaPala ÉsioÉsio crowds. The villa gardens are at their
S.Giovaruu
Germignaga
delladella S.Bernardino Miazzina Germignaga best in late spring and early summer.
Miazzina
SACRO
Val Gr andeVal Gr ande S.Giovaruu Premeno SACRO
Premeno
MONTE DELLA
S.Bernardino
Mergozzo Cambiasca MONTE DELLA Many hotels and restaurants close down
Mergozzo
Cambiasca
SS TRINITÀ DI GHIFFA
Rovegro
Rovegro BeeBee SS TRINITÀ DI GHIFFA for winter at the end of October.
L. diL. di
S. Bernardino
MergozzoMergozzo S. Bernardino
Verb. Verb. Ghiffa Ghiffa Porto Valtravaglia Opening times: Shops tend to open
Porto Valtravaglia
L a g o M a g g i o r e
Arizzanó
Montórfano
M. ÓrfanoM. Órfano Montórfano Trobaso Arizzanó
Trobaso
794m794m Mon–Sat 9am–1pm and 3–7pm. Hours
Fondotoceoce Cavandone Selasca Mesenzana Val Val
Fondot
Cavandone
Selasca
Mesenzana
Castelveccana
Marchirolo
Pedemonte
Pedemonte IntraIntra Castelveccana Marchirolo for villas vary – some are closed on Mon
and most close early in winter.
Fer
GravellonaGravellona Ferioloiolo Suna Suna L a g o M a g g i o r e
Casale Pallanza
Casale
Pallanza
Monte Colonna
Corte Cerro
Corte Cerro ToceToce VERBANIA Monte Nudo Monte Colonna Cunardo Main market days: Arona: Tue am;
VERBANIA
1198m
1198m
Cunardo
Strona Strona BavenoBaveno Isola Isola 1237m ARCUMEGGIA Orta San Giulio: Wed am; Stresa: Fri
Monte Nudo
1237m
ARCUMEGGIA
Rancio
Monte Piambello
Lav
Sasso del F
Granerolo
Montebúglio
Montebúglio Granerolo Madre Madre Lavenoeno Sasso del Ferroerro Rancio Monte Piambello am; Cannobio: Sun am; Laveno: Tue
1123m
1123m
Valcúvia
1062m
Lóita Lóita Isola deiIsola dei 1062m Valcúvia
Germagno
Germagno PescatoriPescatori CASALZUIGNO am; Varese: Mon.
CASALZUIGNO
M. ZúcheroM. Zúchero Isola BellaIsola Bella Cerro Cerro
Cittilgio
Bedero
Bedero
Cuveglio
Crusinallo 1230m1230m Campino Cittilgio Cuveglio Valcuvia Shopping: Small boutiques sell turned
Crusinallo
Campino
Valcuvia
STRESA
STRESA
Santa Caterina
Brinzio
Fracce
OmegnaOmegna Monte MottaroneMonte Mottarone Santa Caterina Fracce Brinzio wood, original paintings and hand-
Strona
Strona
del Sasso
Ciréggio 1491m1491m del Sasso Gemonio Monte Martica made jewellery in Stresa, Orta San
Ciréggio
Gemonio
Monte Martica
la Sacca
1025m
LOMBARDIA
Alpino
Alpino la Sacca Leggiuno 1025m
Leggiuno
alle Sale
Brisino alle Sale LOMBARDIA Giulio and Cannobio. All villages have
Brisino
Gignese
Vezzo Vezzo
Brolo Brolo Agranoano M. MazzaroneM. Mazzarone Gignese Carpugnino Magognino Arolo Arolo Campo dei Fiori Rasa di Arcisate good alimentari (grocers) selling local
Magognino
Campo dei Fiori
L a g o d ' O r t a L a g o d ' O r t a Bássola Coiromonte Comgago Calogna Belgirate Besozzo Gavirateate Comério Santa M Sant’ Sant’ Varese Induno Olona and good Piedmont red wines.
Carpugnino
1227m
1227m
salamis, cheeses, dried mushrooms
Rasa di
1146m1146m
Arcisate
Agr
Monvalle
Monvalle
Varese
PIEMONTEPIEMONTE
Santa Mariaaria
Calogna
del Monte
Belgirate
del Monte
Gavir
Besozzo
Major festivals: Orta San Giulio:
Induno Olona
Coiromonte
Bássola
Comério
Comgago
Amrogio
Grassona Pettenasco Armeno M. CornaggiaM. Cornaggia Brebbia Casciago Amrogio Firework festival, July; Stresa: Classical
Grassona
Pettenasco
Armeno
Brebbia
922m922m
Casciago
Egro Egro Agogna Agogna Lesa Lesa music festival, Aug–Sep; Camelia
Carcegna Ispra Ispra Festival, 3rd week of March.
Carcegna
Calcinate
Pisogno
Fosseno
Pella Pella Pisogno Fosseno Sólcio Sólcio Calcinate VARESE
VARESE
del Pesce
del Pesce
Biandronno
Nebbiuno
Nebbiuno Biandronno
ORTA SAN GIÚLIO Quassa Lago diLago di DAY TRIP OPTIONS
ORTA SAN GIÚLIO
Quassa
Ranco
Cadrezzate
Isola SanIsola San Pisano Ranco Cadrezzate VareseVarese Bobbiate
Bobbiate
Pisano
Colazza
GiulioGiulio Colazza Travedona
Travedona
Méina
Méina Monate Brabbia
Monate
Brabbia
Ameno Dagnente Lago diLago di Leave the car behind for the day and
Ameno
Dagnente
Lagna Lagna MonateMonate
Ghèvio
Ghèvio Buguggiateiate head for the famous Borromean
Bugugg
San Maurizio Ternate
San Maurizio
Ternate
Galliate
Montrigiasco
Galliate
d'Opaglio
d'Opaglio Bolzano Montrigiasco Rocca Rocca AngeraAngera Lombardo Islands by boat from Stresa and
Bolzano
Lombardo
Novarese
Comabbio
Novarese Comabbio
ChéglioChéglio explore them on foot; or opt for the
Inv
SAN CARLONE
Invórioório SAN CARLONE Lago Maggiore Express – a trio of
Monticelli
Monticelli AronaArona TainoTaino
Bugnate Lago diLago di ferry and mountain train trips into
Bugnate
Paruzzaro
GozzanoGozzano Paruzzaro ComabbioComabbio
Mercallo
Mercallo neighbouring Switzerland. Alternatively,
Mercuragoago Corgeno an attractive, circular route south and
Mercur
Corgeno
LisanzaLisanza
BrigaBriga TalonnoTalonno 0 kilometres 5 west from Stresa takes in the views,
NovareseNovarese
Dormelletto S. Anna Sesto Calende from the giant statue of San Carlone,
Dormelletto
Sesto Calende
S. Anna
0 miles 5 the pretty town of Orta San Giulio
and the Alpine pastures between.
For full details, see p55.
050-051_Back_Roads_Northern_Italy.indd 51 21/09/17 11:16 am

52 BACK ROADS NORTHERN AND CENTRAL ITALY


1 San Carlone from inside the statue’s head (Mar:
Arona, Piedmont; 28041 open Sun & hol; Apr–Sep: open daily);
Completed in 1698, one of Europe’s Oct–Nov: Sat, Sun & hol; Dec: Sun).
highest statues rises 35 m (115 ft) ª Turn west off S33 onto SP35 for
above the town of Arona. It is a Montrigiasco. Follow SP110 and SP34
monument to the archbishop of through Invório and Monticelli to
Milan, Carlo Borromeo, an important SP43. Follow signs to Gozzano till
figure in the Counter-Reformation. SS229. Turn right, heading north
Climb up inside for superb views along the lake to Orta San Giulio.

2 Orta San Giulio
Novara, Piedmont; 28016
Perched on a promontory, this medieval town, the jewel of Lago
Above View across the rooftops of Stresa and d’Orta, is a confection of frescoed pastel-coloured houses lining a
over Lago Maggiore maze of romantic cobbled alleys and piazzas. The traffic-free centre
VISITING ORTA SAN GIULIO makes exploring the island’s intriguing nooks and crannies a delight.
Parking
Use the car park by the tourist office (Via A two-hour walking tour remains are in the crypt. The only
Panoramica). From here, a tourist train From the car park and tourist office, street, Via del Silenzio, becoming
heads to the centre and Sacro Monte. walk south along Via Fava to the the Via della Meditazione, leads past
Tourist Information Moorish fantasy hotel Villa the Benedictine convent
Via Panoramica, 28016; 0322 905163; Crespi 1 (www.villacrespi.it). Palazzo dei Vescovi. The
www.distrettolaghi.it; closed Mon, Tue Follow the lakeside road to abbess has put up signs
the main square, Piazza encouraging meditation
WHERE TO STAY
Motta 2, with cafés, shops on “the island within”.
ORTA SAN GIULIO and hotels and a weekly Back at Piazza Motta,
Leon d’Oro moderate–expensive market held since 1228. The take the Salita della Motta,
This family-run three-star hotel has 16th-century town hall, a stepped lane past the
en-suite rooms and a lakeside location. Palazzo della Comunità 3, late-Renaissance Palazzo
Piazza Motta 42, 28016; 0322 911 991; holds art shows and Statue of St Francis of Gemelli 5 and other
closed Jan; www.albergoleondoro.it nearby Rovera (Largo de Assisi, Orta San Giulio elegant palazzi such as the
STRESA Gregori 15; 0322 90123) is a Casa dei Nani (House of
Hotel Verbano moderate–expensive trove of local delicacies and wines. Dwarves) 6. Orta’s oldest house,
On the northernmost of the Borromean From the piazza, take a boat to Isola dating from the 14th century, this
Islands, this romantic, 12-bedroom di San Giulio 4. Legend has it that, in building takes its name from its four
hotel is handsomely furnished. Once AD 390, Giulio, a Christian preacher, tiny windows. Passing by houses in a
the last boat has gone, the island is all
yours. Via Ugo Ara 2, 28838, Isola dei rid the island of its dragons and profusion of architectural styles, head
Pescatori; 0323 304 08; closed Nov–mid- serpents and built the Romanesque up to the 15th-century Baroque
Mar; www.hotelverbano.it Basilica di San Giulio (open daily) – his church Santa Maria Assunta 7.

0 metres 200
VIA BAGRERA
0 yards 200 BOSSI VIA ETTO RE V I A P A N O R A M I C A
VIA MADRE TERESA DI CALCUTTA
Santa Maria Sacro Monte V I A S A C R O MO N T E
Assunta di Francesco
SALITA
Palazzo della DELLA MOTTA V I A SAC R O M O N T E
Comunità Palazzo S T R A D A D E L S A C R O M O N T E
Casa Gemelli V I A P A N O R A M I C A
Piazza dei Nani
Motta
Isola di PI A Z ZA MARI O M O T TA V I A G E M E L L I
San Giulio V I A S A N Q U I R I C O Villa Crespi
V I A G I U S E P P E F A V A STRADA DI ORTELLO V I A N O VA R A
Lak e Or ta V I A G I A C O M O G I O V A N N E T T I


Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €100; moderate, €100–200; expensive, over €200


052-055_Back_Roads_Northern_Italy.indd 52 06/10/17 2:59 pm

DRIVE 3: Sacred Mountains and Island Palaces 53

LAGO MAGGIORE EXPRESS
For a scenic day trip, start from Stresa
with a leisurely ferry ride (tickets at
ferry stations and tourist offices) to the
end of the lake and into Switzerland
(passports are a must). Stroll through
lakeside Locarno and hop on board
the Centovalli express, a Swiss train
that passes through stunning Alpine
scenery to Domodossola, Italy. There is
time for a wander and a meal before
catching the train back to Stresa
(www.lagomaggioreexpress.it).
VISITING STRESA
From here, take Via Gemelli and turn reach the islands. Isola Bella (open Parking
left to the Sacro Monte di Francesco end-Mar–end-Oct) has a grand There is a large pay-and-display at
8 (open daily). Set on a hillside above Baroque palace with terraced gardens. Piazza Marconi by the ferry terminal.
the lake, with views to Isola di San Visit quieter Isola Madre (open end- Tourist Information
Giulio, this is a devotional path with Mar–end-Oct) for its 16th-century villa Piazza Marconi 16, 28838; 0323 30150;
21 chapels illustrating the life of and extensive gardens, with splendid www.distrettolaghi.it
St Francis of Assisi. Built between 1591 magnolias and camellias in spring. EAT AND DRINK
and 1750, the chapels contain 376 Isola dei Pescatori, also called Isola
sculptures and 900 frescoes and Superiore, is an erstwhile fisherman’s ORTA SAN GIULIO
alternate between Baroque and village of narrow lanes and higgedly- Al Boeuc inexpensive
Renaissance styles. The restaurant piggedly houses, now given over Away from the crowds, this cosy wine
here has a pretty, ivy-clad terrace. mainly to restaurants. bar serves delicious Piedmontese
Return to the car park on the train. A 5-minute stroll north of the centre cheese and affettati misti (cold cuts).
Via Bersani 28, 28016; 339 5840039;
ª Leaving Orta San Giulio, cross the of Stresa leads to the Lido, where a www.alboeuc.beepworld.it; closed Tue
roundabout to follow narrow SP114 cable car ascends Monte Mottarone, mid Mar–Oct; open by reservation only
past the station. Turn left on SP114, stopping halfway at the lovely Nov–mid-Mar
becoming SP39 later through Armeno. Giardino Botanico Alpinia (closed Villa Crespi expensive
Drive over the hill, past small villages, Oct–Mar). There are attractive walks This two-Michelin-starred restaurant, set
and down the narrow lanes to Stresa. at the summit and the 3-hour in a Moorish-style luxury hotel, serves
descent can be done on foot – or, if innovative Mediterranean cuisine.
Sacri Monti you prefer, by mountain bike. Via G Fava 18, 28016; 0322 911 902;
www.villacrespi.it
These devotional complexes are ª Take the lakeside SS33 northeast
made up of a series of chapels, lining out of Stresa to Fondotoce. Continue STRESA
a path to the top of a mountain. The along the waterside SS34 to Cannobio. Il Clandestino moderate
chapels illustrate the lives of Christ, Creative dishes using seasonal produce
the Saints or the Virgin Mary and are beautifully presented here. The fish
were built in beautiful locations over Top Pretty Isola di San Giulio, a short boat ride and seafood are particularly good.
the 16th and 17th centuries during from Orta San Giulio Below Statue of Carlo Via Rosmini 5, 28838; 0323 30399;
the Counter-Reformation. There are Borromeo, Arona Below right View from the www.ristoranteilclandestino.com
nine such complexes across northern cable car up Monte Mottarone, Stresa
Italy, all UNESCO World Heritage Sites.

3 Stresa
Verbano-Cusio-Ossola, Piedmont; 28838
When the Simplon Tunnel opened in
1906, linking northern and southern
Europe by rail, sleepy lakeside Stresa
became a favourite of the European
nobility. The town is is now a sedate
place with grand hotels, manicured
gardens and a pedestrianized centre.
It is beautifully located with stunning
views up the lake to the Alps, and
across to the famous treasures of the
Borromean Islands. Take a ferry or boat
taxi from the Stresa landing stage to




052-055_Back_Roads_Northern_Italy.indd 53 21/09/17 11:16 am

54 BACK ROADS NORTHERN AND CENTRAL ITALY


5 Sacro Monte della
SS Trinità di Ghiffa
Verbano-Cusio-Ossola, Piedmont; 28055
Set in a stunning position with views
across the lake to the foothills of the
Alps, the 17th-century complex on
this sacred mountain is incomplete,
with three main chapels and two
smaller ones flanking the central
sanctuary. They were built between
1605 and 1617 and contain depictions
of biblical scenes, including the
baptism of Jesus by John the Baptist,
with God looking down from above.
ª Return to SS34 and turn right
towards Verbania. After 6 km (4 miles),
once in Intra, follow signs to Villa
Taranto, where there is a car park.

Val Cannobina
Explore the secluded Val Cannobina
up to Traffiume and Orrido di
Sant’Anna, a small gorge spanned by
Top Lago Maggiore and Verbania, ringed by a Roman bridge. This pretty riverside
path is an 8-km (5-mile) round trip
forest-clad hills Above Ferry taking visitors 4 Cannobio and navigable on foot or by bike.
across Lago Maggiore Above right Fresco at Piedmont 28822 Bikes can be hired from Cicli Prezan
Varese’s Sacro Monte An attractive village close to the Swiss (Viale V Veneto, 9, Cannobio 28822;
border, Cannobio is a relaxed holiday 0323 712 30). There are many picnic
VISITING CANNOBIO
resort, popular with families. It has a spots and a restaurant (see right).
Parking good beach, a wide choice of
There are several well signposted pay- watersports and plenty of cycle trails
and-display car parks; Piazza Martiri della and hikes inland. Accommodation and 6 Verbania
Libertà at the northern end is the largest.
restaurant options are dotted among Verbano-Cusio-Ossola, Piedmont; 28922
Tourist Information the pretty, stepped lanes. The town is Mussolini merged the villages of
Via A Giovanola 25; 0323 71212; also famous for its statue of the Virgin Suna, Intra and Pallanza under the
www.procannobio.it
Mary said to have started bleeding in Roman name for the lake, Verbania.
VISITING VARESE 1522. The Santuario della Santissima This is an attractive town with narrow
Tourist Information Pietà was built at the site in 1578. shop-lined lanes in the centre. The key
Via Romagnosi 9, Piazza del Podestà, ª Take SS34 south to Ghiffa. Then draw is the Villa Taranto (open mid–
21100; 0332 28191; turn right, following signs to Sacro Mar–end Oct). In 1931, capitalizing on
www.varesecittagiardino.it Monte up steep lanes to the car park. the region’s microclimate, Neil
Funicular McEacharn, a retired Scottish captain,
www.varesefunicolari.org Below Alfresco seating on one of the café-lined began landscaping a botanical
streets in Verbania garden with species from around the
WHERE TO STAY
CANNOBIO
Pironi moderate
A friendly hotel in a 15th-century former
monastery with comfortable rooms.
Via Marconi 35, 28822; 0323 70170;
www.pironihotel.it; closed Oct–Feb
Residenza Patrizia moderate
This modern hotel is near the beach.
Via Vittorio Veneto 9, 28822; 0041 41
410 7830; www.residenzapatrizia.com
AROUND VARESE
Borducan moderate
This is a historic antique-filled hotel
set in a Liberty villa on the hillside.
Via Beata C Moriggi 43, 21100; 0332 22
05 67; www.borducan.com
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €100; moderate, €100–200; expensive, over €200


052-055_Back_Roads_Northern_Italy.indd 54 21/09/17 11:16 am

DRIVE 3: Sacred Mountains and Island Palaces 55


world. The resulting 7 km (4 miles) of 8 Arcumeggia
pathways meander through beds of Casalzuigno, Varese; Lombardia 21030
dahlias, camellias and rhododendrons, The stone houses and crumbling
past ponds with spectacular fountains courtyards of this mountain village
and giant lily pads and lotus flowers. are decorated with 20th-century
It all makes a wonderful retreat. frescoes. Figurative works by artists
ª Follow the road for 500 m (547 such as Aligi Sassu and Remo Brindisi
yards) to the Intra ferry station and adorn the façades of some houses as
catch the car ferry to Laveno. Take part of an ongoing regeneration
SS394 (signposted Gavirate) out of project that began in the 1950s.
Laveno to the roundabout in Fracce. ª Backtrack to the main road and
Continue on Via Valcuvia, turning left head east on SS394 to Rancio Valcúvia.
up Via Sciareda into Casalzuigno. Take SP62 southeast and climb up the
wooded Campo dei Fiori to Varese.
9 Varese
Varese, Lombardia; 21100
Nicknamed “The Garden City”, Varese
is a pleasing mix of early 20th-century
villas and 17th-century Baroque EAT AND DRINK
buildings set in verdant parks. At the
heart of the town’s pedestrianized CANNOBIO
centre is the Church of San Vittore and La Streccia moderate
its 12th-century frescoed baptistry. To Informal restaurant in a narrow alley-
way, serving Piedmontese dishes
the north of town (well signposted featuring mushrooms and game.
and with its own car park), the 18th- Via Merzagora 5, 28822; 0323 70575;
century Villa Panza (closed Mon) houses www.ristorantelastreccia.it; closed Thu
an impressive collection of contem- VERBANIA
porary art with site-specific installations
in the old stables and works by Dan Il Milano expensive
The dishes at this water side restaurant
Flavin. There are also landscaped combine creativity and local traditions.
gardens and a good café. Follow signs Corso Zanitello 2, 28922; 0323 556 816;
Above Manicured garden at Villa Taranto, Verbania north out of town along Via Virgilio www.ristorantemilanolagomaggiore.it;
Top right A cobbled street in Arcumeggia and Via Prima Cappella to the Campo closed Tue Jan–mid-Mar
dei Fiori national park, once a hunting VARESE
7 Casalzuigno ground for the medieval dukes of Bologna inexpensive–moderate
Varese, Lombardia; 21030 Milan. From the park’s ridge, the Via This classic trattoria serves traditional
Set in the chestnut-tree valley of Cúvia Sacra, a 2-km (1-mile) cobbled path, fare: the antipasto della casa (mixed hors
is the village of Casalzuigno, whose leads up the mountain past a series of d’oeuvres) is a delicious meal in itself.
main attraction is the 15th-century 16th- century chapels, containing life- Via Broggi 7, 21100; 0332 234 362;
www.albergobologna.it; closed Aug
Villa della Porta Bozzolo (closed mid- size scenes illustrating the Mystery of
Sep–Feb; Mar: Mon & Tue; Apr–mid-Sep: the Rosary. They form a Sacro Monte AROUND VARESE
Mon) and its 18th-century terraced that culminates in the Baroque Taverna delle Ruote inexpensive
gardens. The villa has frescoes, period Santuario di Santa Maria del Monte This country trattoria serves seasonal
kitchens and farm buildings. and the village of Santa Maria del produce and decent house wine.
ª Return to the main road and then Monte. A 3-minute funicular (open Via Marconi 29, Bedero Valcuvia (just
off the SP62, north of Varese), 21039;
left on SP7, up the steep switchback weekends and end Jul–end Aug) whisks 0332 724 572; www.tavernadelle
to Arcumeggia. less energetic visitors up the mountain. ruote.net; closed Tue eve & Wed
DAY TRIP OPTIONS Borromean Islands Saints and swimmers
Stresa is a good base for exploring Catch a boat from Stresa 3 to Enjoy sweeping views of the lake
the area. Chugging across the lakes explore Isola Bella before moving on from the statue of San Carlone 1,
on a ferry really should not be missed. to Isola Madre for a picnic lunch, or then head to Orta San Giulio 2 for
Lake Maggiore Express Isola dei Pescatori for a meal of lake lunch. Catch a speedboat to its
island and have a dip in the lake
A very reasonably priced round trip fish at one of the waterside before driving to Stresa for dinner.
from Stresa 3, on a scenic rail and restaurants. Aim to return to Stresa
ferry route exploring the valleys and in the late afternoon, when the light Take the SP114 on the return trip,
towns on the Swiss–Italian border. on the water is particularly special. followed by the SP39.
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€45; expensive, over €45


052-055_Back_Roads_Northern_Italy.indd 55 21/09/17 11:16 am

BRNI_056-057_OpnDrv4.indd 56 27/10/11 5:48 PM
Back Roads LAYERS PRINTED:
Section opener template “UK” LAYER
(OpenType)
Date 02 November 2009
Size 145mm x 217mm
Font Myriad Pro

DRIVE 4





Turin Venice
IT AL Y
Genoa Bologna
Florence
Perugia
Rome



Como’s Villas

and Villages


Como to

Brunate




Highlights
• Lakeside splendour
Enjoy the serene gardens and
magnificent villas that have
made Lake Como so famous
• A change of view
Let someone else do the steering and
see things from a different perspective
on Lake Como’s traghetto (ferry) service
• Bella Bellagio
Visit the prettiest of the lakeside
villages, set on the tip of a promontory
with a scenic wooded hill behind it
• Romance and panoramas
Explore romantic Varenna’s exquisite
villa gardens and climb up to Castello
di Vezio for panoramic lake views






A view of houses on the hillside by Lake
Como on a sunny day




BRNI_056-057_OpnDrv4.indd 57 27/10/11 5:48 PM

58 BaCk Roads noRTheRn and CenTRaL iTaLy

Como’s Villas and Villages

Famed for the sparkling beauty of its water, romantic villas and
serene lakeside gardens, Lake Como does not disappoint. The
natural setting of thickly wooded mountainsides rising up from Key Nágg Nággioio Bellano
Bellano
Plésio
beside the lake has been drawing visitors since Roman times – Drive route Plésio
the 19th-century Romantics were particularly attached to the Nobiallo
Nobiallo
Cardano
area. This route includes ferry crossings, shore-hugging roads and Cardano
country lanes with several leg-stretching jaunts up to panoramic MENAGGIO
MENAGGIO
viewpoints. Como, Bellagio, Varenna and other villages are perfect Croc Crocee VARENNA
VARENNA
spots to pause and enjoy the water for an afternoon – or longer.
M. di M. di TremezzoTremezzo C o m o C o m o
1700m Grian Griantete
1700m
Cadenabbia
Cadenabbia
BELLAGIO
BELLAGIO
Tremezzo
Tremezzo Pescallo
Pescallo
Loppia
Ortanella
SACRO MONTEO MONTE
SACR Azzano Loppia Ortanella
Azzano
DI OSSUCCIOCIO
DI OSSUC Lenno S. Gio S. Giovannivanni
Lenno
Ossúccio d i d i
Ossúccio
Sala Comacina
Sala Comacina Visg Visgnolanola
Lierna
VILLA Lierna
VILLA
Limontata
Pigra Pigra Limon
BALBIANELLOO
Colonno BALBIANELL L L
Colonno

L a g o Guello a a Grumo
L a g o
Grumo
Guello
g
g
Argegno
Argegno Lézz Lézzenoeno Perlo Perlo o o

Civenna d d Ólcio Ólcio
Civenna
LOMBARDIA SANTUARIO DELLA i i
LOMBARDIA
SANTUARIO DELLA


MADONNA DEL L L
MADONNA DEL
Occagno GHISALLO c c Mandello
Occagno
e
e
GHISALLO
Mandello
Magréglio
del Lárioio
Magréglio c c del Lár
Nesso
Nesso Véleso M. S. M. S. Primo Primo o o
Véleso
1683m
Brienno
Brienno 1683m M. P M. Poncionci Barni Barni
1450m
1450m
Onno Onno
P i a n d . T i v a n o
VALASSINA AND
Zélbio
Zélbio VALASSINA AND
PIAN DEL TIVIANO
Careno
Above Appreciating the lakeside scenery from Bellagio, see p61 M. San Ber 1349 1349 Careno P i a n d . T i v a n o PIAN DEL TIVIANO
M. San Bernadonado
Opposite The winding road up to Santuario della Madonna del Torríggia Va l a s s i n a Va l a s s i n a Lambro Lambro
Torríggia
Ghisallo, see p63 Láglio
Láglio
Colma
Colma
M. di Preaoloeaolo
M. di Pr
Lasnigo
Sormano
Carate Pognana
Carate Pognana 1412m Sormano Lasnigo
1412m
Lário Lário
M. Bisbino Úrio Úrio
M. Bisbino
1329m
1329m
ACTIVITIES Cáglio
Cáglio
Palanzo
Rezzago
Moltrásio Palanzo Rezzago
Moltrásio
Go shopping for silk in stylish Como town Riva Riva M. P M. Palanzonealanzone
1436m
1436m
Torno
Torno
VECCHIA REGINA:
Walk up to the enchanting sacro Monte di Rovenna VECCHIA REGINA:
Rovenna
THE SP71
ossuccio, high above the lake Maslianic THE SP71
Maslianicoo
Cer Cernóbbionóbbio
Explore the fabulous lakeside gardens of
M. Boletto
villas Balbianello, serbelloni and Melzi Blévio M. Boletto
1237m
1237m
Blévio
Tavernola
Tavernola
Cycle or hike in the countryside around
Menaggio where there are trails to suit all levels
BRUNATE
BRUNATE
Play a round of golf in the hills above
COMO
Menaggio COMO
Tavernério
Tavernério
Zig-zag acoss the waters on a traghetto (ferry)
for pure lake romance
Lipomo
Lipomo
Watch a falconry display at the Castello di
Vezio, Varenna
BRNI_058-059_ItinDrive4.indd 58 02/09/14 2:09 PM

DRIVE 4: Como’s Villas and Villages 59

PLAN YOUR DRIVE
0 kilometres 3
Start/finish: Como to Brunate.
0 miles 3
Number of days: 2–3 days, allowing
Bellano
Bellano half a day in Varenna.
Plésio
Nágg Nággioio Plésio
Distance: Approx 100 km (62 miles).
Nobiallo
Nobiallo
Cardano Road conditions: Roads are generally
Cardano
good, but with some tight bends on
MENAGGIO
MENAGGIO the narrow lakeside roads between
Croc Crocee
VARENNA
VARENNA Como and Menaggio and some steep,
winding lanes after Bellagio. In summer,
M. di M. di TremezzoTremezzo C o m o C o m o the lake roads can get very busy.
1700m Grian Griantete When to go: Visit Easter to July and
1700m
Cadenabbia during September to beat the worst
Cadenabbia
BELLAGIO of the summer crowds. Many of the
BELLAGIO
Tremezzo Pescallo gardens are in full bloom in May–June.
Tremezzo
Pescallo
Loppia
Ortanella
SACRO MONTEO MONTE
SACR Azzano Loppia Ortanella Most lake hotels and restaurants close
Azzano
DI OSSUC Lenno S. Gio S. Giovannivanni
DI OSSUCCIOCIO
Lenno
Ossúccio
Ossúccio d i d i from the end of October until Easter.
Sala Comacina Visg Visgnolanola Opening times: Shops tend to open
Sala Comacina
Lierna
VILLA Lierna
VILLA
Limontata
Pigra Pigra Limon 9am–1pm and 3–7pm Mon–Sat. Villa
BALBIANELLOO
Colonno BALBIANELL L L opening hours differ; some are closed
Colonno

L a g o Guello a a Grumo on Monday and the gardens usually
L a g o
Grumo
Guello
close early in winter.
g
g
Argegno
Argegno Lézz Lézzenoeno Perlo Perlo o o

Main market days: Como: Tue
d Ólcio
Civenna d Ólcio
Civenna
LOMBARDIA
LOMBARDIA SANTUARIO DELLA i i and Thu morning and all day Sat;
SANTUARIO DELLA


Menaggio: 2nd and 4th Fri morning
MADONNA DEL L L
MADONNA DEL
Occagno GHISALLO c c Mandello of month; Varenna: Wed.
e
Occagno
e
GHISALLO
Mandello
Magréglio c c del Lár
del Lárioio
Magréglio
Nesso
Nesso Véleso M. S. M. S. Primo Primo o o Shopping: Como is famous for its high-
Véleso
1683m
Brienno
Brienno 1683m M. P M. Poncionci Barni Barni
1450m
1450m quality silk, supplying Milan and the
Onno world’s fashion houses. There are some
Onno
P i a n d . T i v a n o
VALASSINA AND
Zélbio
Zélbio VALASSINA AND outlets and factory shops around the
PIAN DEL TIVIANO
Careno
M. San Bernadonado
M. San Ber Careno P i a n d . T i v a n o PIAN DEL TIVIANO town. Workshops in Bellagio produce
1349 1349 Va l a s s i n a Va l a s s i n a
Torríggia
Torríggia Lambro Lambro ceramics, jewellery and leather goods.
Láglio
Láglio Stock up too on Valtellina red wines
Colma
Colma from the northern end of the lake.
M. di Pr
M. di Preaoloeaolo
Lasnigo
Carate Pognana
Sormano
1412m
Carate Pognana 1412m Sormano Lasnigo
Lário Lário
M. Bisbino Úrio Úrio Major festivals: Across the lake: Sagra
M. Bisbino
1329m di San Giovanni (fireworks and boat
1329m
Cáglio
Cáglio
Palanzo
Palanzo Rezzago races), nearest Sat to 24 Jun; Bellagio:
Rezzago
Moltrásio
Moltrásio
Riva Riva M. P M. Palanzonealanzone Festa Patronale San Giacomo (town’s
1436m
1436m
Torno
Torno patron saint), 25 Jul. Varenna: Festa
VECCHIA REGINA: del Lago (recalls the attack by Como),
VECCHIA REGINA:
Rovenna
Rovenna
THE SP71
Maslianic THE SP71 1st weekend of Jul.
Maslianicoo
Cer Cernóbbionóbbio
DAY TRIP OPTIONS
M. Boletto
M. Boletto
1237m
Blévio 1237m
Blévio
Tavernola Tire energetic youngsters with a tour
Tavernola
of Como, a lakeside drive past stately
villas, then climb up the Sacro
BRUNATE Monte di Ossuccio before finishing
BRUNATE
COMO at Menaggio lido. For a more restful
COMO
time, take a drive on the quiet back-
Tavernério
Tavernério roads away from the lake’s bustle. Or
make use of the ferries by crossing
Lipomo
Lipomo to Villa Balbianello, then back to
explore Varenna with its villas and
castle. For full details, see p63.
BRNI_058-059_ItinDrive4.indd 59 02/09/14 2:09 PM

60 BACK ROADS NORTHERN AND CENTRAL ITALY


ª From Como, head north on SS340,
the lakeside road signposted for
Cernobbio. Through the village and
past the luxury hotel Villa d’Este,
branch off onto the SP71 or Via
Vecchia Regina.
2 Vecchia Regina: the SP71
Como, Lombardia
This narrow, winding road shows Lake
Como in all its splendour. Running
along the water’s edge, the route
weaves past private jetties, glorious
retreats and splendid gardens built
by European aristocrats and wealthy
industrialists over the last few hundred
Above View from behind Bellagio out over Lake years. Villa owners have included opera
Como to Varenna Below left Church of the 1 Como composer Vincenzo Bellini, fashionista
Madonna del Soccorso overlooking Menaggio Como, Lombardia; 22100 Gianni Versace and, recently, Hollywood
Below right Inside the Church of the Madonna The comfortable provincial town of film star George Clooney. Most of the
del Soccorso at the Sacro Monte di Ossuccio Como sits on the southern tip of the traffic takes the faster SS340, away
western arm of Lake Como. It is best from the lake, so drivers on this road
VISITING COMO enjoyed by wandering the cobbled, are free to enjoy the views, stop to
Parking criss-crossing grid of narrow lanes, explore the little hamlets or peek
Follow signs to a central multi-storey car a reminder of its Roman origins, and into the celebrity-owned gardens.
park rather than look for an expensive by taking in the lake vistas from ª Rejoin SS340, just before Brienno,
roadside space with jacketed attendant. the promenade or on the hill above and continue north to Ossuccio. Turn
Tourist Information town in Brunate (see p63). An ancient left to the Santuario just after a bend
Via Pretorio, 22100; 031 304137; www. silk-producing town, Como is a good in the centre of the village. Park at the
visitcomo.eu; closed Mon
place to shop for silk products. end of the road in the little square at
In the main piazza, close to the the bottom of the grassy footpath.
WHERE TO STAY harbour, the Duomo is a pleasing mix
of Gothic and Renaissance styles with 3 Sacro Monte di Ossuccio
COMO a Baroque dome. Next door is the Como, Lombardia; 22016
Del Duca moderate medieval broletto (market hall) built Set in the folds of the hills above
This comfortable three-star hotel has in striped marble. Around the corner, the lake, the Sacro Monte di Ossuccio
en suite air-conditioned rooms and a the strong lines and functional style is one of a series of UNESCO-
good-value restaurant, Le Colonne.
Piazza Mazzini 12, 22100; 031 264 859; of the Casa del Fascio, completed in recognized Sacred Mountains built
www.albergodelduca.it; closed Jan 1936 by architect Giuseppe Terragni, across Northern Italy in the 17th cen-
is one of the finest examples of tury. Climb up through olive groves,
AROUND MENAGGIO Rationalist architecture in the country. past 14 chapels – each containing
La Marianna inexpensive-moderate
This inviting family-run hotel has eight
traditional rooms, most with lake views.
Via Regina 57, Cadenabbia di Griante,
22011 (on SS340, 3 km/2 miles south
of Menaggio); 0344 43 095;
www.la-marianna.com
Regina Teodolinda expensive
Set in lovely grounds, this carefully
restored villa is serene, luxurious and
has its own small swimming pool.
Via Vecchia Regina 58, Laglio,
22010 (on SS340, 21 km/13 miles south
of Menaggio); 031 400 031;
www.villareginateodolinda.com
BELLAGIO
Belvedere expensive
This hotel offers lake views, gardens, a
pool, spacious rooms and parking too.
Via Valassina 31, 22021; 031 950 410;
www.belvederebellagio.com; closed
Nov–Easter
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €100; moderate, €100–€200; expensive, over €200


060-063_Back_Roads_Northern_Italy.indd 60 21/09/17 11:16 am

DRIVE 4: Como’s Villas and Villages 61

















Above left Elegant Villa Balbianello, built in
painted life-size plaster figures in you can hire bikes from most hotels. 1787 on Lake Como Above centre Life-size
scenes from the Bible – to the Church In the village centre, Piazza Garibaldi statue in Chapel V of the Sacro Monte di
of the Madonna del Soccorso. It is a offers some of the best restaurants Ossuccio Above Como’s Piazza San Fedele,
wonderful retreat from the lakeside and an attractive promenade leads the site of law courts in Roman times
hustle and bustle, with superb views down to the lido.
of the water at the top of the steep ª There is a ferry station in Menaggio
1-km (half-a-mile) long path. for the traghetto to Bellagio (or return VISITING BELLAGIO
ª Follow the road back to the SS340 3 km/2 miles on SS340 to Cadenabbia). Parking
and continue north for 1 km (half a The centre of Bellagio is car-free so use
mile), then follow signs to the parking the spaces on the edge of the village.
Limited free spots (green paint) are
on the right. available around the communal
gardens up the hill from the ferry
4 Villa Balbianello station. Otherwise, the blue pay-and-
Lenno, Como, Lombardia; 22016 display bays are the only option. Some
One of many sumptuous lakeside hotels have special deals for parking.
villas, 18th-century Villa Balbianello
(mid-Mar–mid-Nov: open Tue & Thu– EAT AND DRINK
Sun) stands on a verdant promontory COMO
with lovely views across the lake to the
Grigne mountains. Paths lead down Castiglioni Gastronomia inexpensive
This family-run delicatessen offers
from the delightful loggia through mouthwatering home-made pasta,
beautiful terraced gardens to the salamis and cheeses, and serves a
water. Film buffs might recognize the Above Palm-lined lakeside promenade, or good-value lunch in a pretty courtyard.
location from Star Wars: Episode II lungolago, in the heart of Menaggio Via Cesare Cantù 9, 22100; 031 263
388; www.castiglionistore.com
(2000) and Casino Royale (2006), parts
of which were filmed here. The house 6 Bellagio La Colombetta expensive
contains a small museum to its last Como, Lombardia; 22021 Simple, elegant dining rooms provide
the backdrop for Sardinian-inspired
owner, the explorer and mountaineer On the tip between the two arms of fish specialities, often including
Guido Monzino and his Chinese, Lake Como, pretty Bellagio has been home-made pasta, accompanied
African and pre-Columbian art. attracting visitors for centuries. The by good Italian wines.
ª Continue north on the SS340 to village centre is a criss-cross of steep, Via Diaz 40, 22100; 031 262 703;
Menaggio and its roadside, town- stepped lanes lined with boutiques, www.colombetta.it; closed Sun
centre parking. The road gets very hotels, eateries and several handsome MENAGGIO
crowded on this section. villas and gardens. The 17th-century Il Ristorante di Paolo moderate
Villa Serbelloni, a Rockerfeller institute, Excellent food served in a relaxed
5 Menaggio is closed to the public, but its formal and elegant atmosphere. The staff are
Como, Lombardia; 22017 terraced gardens can be visited on a helpful about the good wine list.
Lakeside Menaggio is more a working guided tour (mid-Mar–Oct: open Tue– Largo Cavour 5, 22017; 0344 32 133;
www.ilristorantedipaolo.it; closed Tue
village than a resort. It is a great base Sun). The Neo-Classical Villa Melzi (end
for enjoying strolls, hikes and cycle Mar–Oct: open daily) has an orangery BELLAGIO
rides in the surrounding area and and a Japanese garden. From town, Silvio moderate
there is even a good golf course – it’s a half-hour stroll to the fishing ham- The simple, refined meals based around
set up by four British visitors in 1907; lets, Loppia (west) or Pescallo (east). the freshest fish – often caught by
Silvio or his son – and magical lake
the tourist office (Via Lusardi 26, ª Leave the car in Bellagio and catch views make this place a treat.
22017; 0344 364 11; www.menaggio. one of the regular ferries to Varenna. Via Carcano 12, 22021; 031 950 322;
com) has maps and information and Tickets available at the ferry terminal. www.bellagiosilvio.com
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€45; expensive over €45


060-063_Back_Roads_Northern_Italy.indd 61 21/09/17 11:16 am

62 BACK ROADS NORTHERN AND CENTRAL ITALY


Right The grandiose lakeside frontage of Villa
Cipressi, Varenna Far right Varenna’s village
centre backed by a steep mountainside
Below Spectacular view of Lake Como from
Castello di Vezio








7 Varenna
Lecco, Lombardia; 23829
VISITING VARENNA
Set on the eastern shore of Lake Como and backed by steep mountains,
Tourist Information Varenna is a sleepy fishing village that sparkles in the afternoon sun.
Via IV Novembre 7, 23829; 341 830 367; The castle on the hillside above is said to be haunted by a 7th-
www.varennaturismo.com
century queen, Theodolinda, and in the 12th century, the village
itself was involved in bloody wars with its bigger neighbour, Como.
WHERE TO STAY A two-hour walking tour signs through tiny lanes, past the
The short ferry crossing from Bellagio Piazza della Chiesetta di Sant’Antonio
VARENNA is possibly the most romantic way to Abate, named for its tiny 16th-century
Hotel Milano moderate arrive in Varenna. Head uphill from the church, and through an olive grove
This stylish hotel is centrally located,
with a good restaurant, great lake ferry station 1 to the main road. Turn to the 13th-century Castello di Vezio
views and charming owners. right and cross over to where the 2 (Mar–Oct: open daily), which offers
Via 20 Settembre 35, 23829; 0341 830 signposted path to the castle begins, stunning views, lawns and ruined
298; www.varenna.net next to the Hotel Ristorante Monte towers. There are falconry displays at
Hotel Du Lac expensive Codeno. A 15-minute walk up this very the weekend and an outdoor trattoria
Tucked in a quiet corner of the village, stepped mountain path leads to Vezio, serving good, local specialities.
this comfortable hotel offers spacious an ancient hamlet of stone houses Return to the little piazza in front of
bedrooms. There is a shaded waterfront
bar and breakfast is served outside. whose conquest by the Romans in the church, from where a panoramic
R R A D O V E N I N I 0 metres 200
Via del Prestino 11, 23829; 0341 830 238; 196 BC is described by the Roman path, called the Scabium, runs back
www.albergodulac.com author Pliny the Younger. Follow the down to Varenna. From the church,



Ferry 0 yards 200
Station V I A C O
Via Riva Dei Marmisti


Walkway
VI A 20 S E T T E M BR E V I A C O R R A D O V E N I N I Castello di Vezio Vezio




Contr ada Garibaldi
San Giovanni
Battista Piazza San Giorgio
Contrada Del
Villa
Molo Di Sotto
Cipressi Villa V I A R O M A
Monastero
V’ALE G. POLVANI
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €100; moderate, €100–€200; expensive, over €200

060-063_Back_Roads_Northern_Italy.indd 62 21/09/17 11:16 am

DRIVE 4: Como’s Villas and Villages 63


turn right, if facing the church, and Italy-wide cycle race, Giro d’Italia.
then right again after a 90-degree turn. Next door there is a specialist
Continue along, under a stone bridge, museum with bicycles and Giro-
and take the signposted right fork winners’ pink jerseys, donated by
downhill. A few minutes’ steep walk Italy’s cycling greats. From the
or drive, accompanied by glorious Romeo Belvedere nearby there are
views, leads to the main road into unbeatable views of the eastern arm
Varenna. Turn right and cross over to of the lake and the Grigne mountains.
the luxuriant terraced gardens and ª Continue south along the SP41.
museum at the 17th-century Villa
Monastero 3 (open mid-Mar–end 9 Valassina and Above Monument to cyclists at Santuario
Oct, Jan–Feb: Sun), built on the site of Pian del Tiviano della Madonna del Ghisallo Below Steep
a 13th-century Cistercian monastery. Como, Lombardia; 22030 alleyway between the houses of Varenna
The rooms are grandly decorated Crossing this rural corner of the lake
and the garden’s avenues and takes drivers along winding lanes EAT AND DRINK
terraces are shaded by cypress, through chestnut woods and VARENNA
oleander and citrus trees. medieval hamlets. At Colma, Il Castello di Vezio inexpensive
Turn left out of the villa there is an astronomical This informal al fresco restaurant serves
and pop into the splendid observatory and great views in lake fish, grilled meats and their own
garden with its relaxing three directions. Head towards organic vegetables and olive oil. Wash
viewpoint at the hotel next the lake across the bowl of the it all down with local Valtellina wine.
Vezio, 23828 Perledo, Lecco; 3334 485
door, Villa Cipressi 4. Pian del Tiviano, which is 975; www.castellodivezio.it; open Mar–
Left out of Villa Cipressi carpeted with narcissi, lilies Nov daily 10am–7pm; reservation
leads into Varenna’s main Falconry display at of the valley and bluebells needed for evenings
square, Piazza San Giorgio Castello di Vezio in springtime. Here, the Il Cavatappi moderate
5, with its 13th-century road switchbacks down to Reservations are needed at this tiny,
parish church and the 10th-century Nesso, a pretty lakeside village. intimate place. The dishes are excellent
chapel of San Giovanni Battista 6, ª Drive along SP41, turn right onto and include local lake-fish specialities.
There is also a good list of local wines.
which has excellent frescoes. From SP44 signed Sormano, carry on for 19 km Via XX Settembre 8, 23829; 0341 815
here, head down into the grid of cool (12 miles) till Nesso. At SS583 turn left 349; www.cavatappivarenna.it; closed
lanes to Varenna’s waterfront cafés. to Como 16km (10 miles). Follow signs Mar–May & Oct–Dec; Wed Jan – Feb
Walk past the tiny harbour on the left to the funicular and nearby car park.
and continue along the walkway 7
back to the ferry station and Bellagio. 0 Brunate
ª Leave Bellagio on SP41 (see below), Como, Lombardia; 22034
which winds for 5 km (3 miles) up to Catch the funicular up to Brunate
Magreglio. Park near the sanctuary. (every 15 min from 6am till 10:30pm;
Jun–Aug: till midnight) to finish the
8 Santuario della drive with some more spectacular
Madonna del Ghisallo views of the lake. The steep 6-minute
Bellagio, Lombardia; 22030 ascent passes attractive 19th-century
The Madonna del Ghisallo has been villas and their gardens to the summit
the patron saint of cyclists since 1949 where a small Art Nouveau resort
and this sanctuary is a very popular offers a few restaurants and cafés as
destination for two wheelers; it is well as strategically sited places to
often on the route of the annual drink in the lake views one last time.

DAY TRIP OPTIONS Drive north from Como on SS340, wooded valleys to the lake road
Several parts of this drive would branching off on to SP71 and up and back to Bellagio or Como 1.
make comfortable, varied day to the Sacro Monte di Ossuccio, then Leave Bellagio on SP41, take winding
trips – with or without the car. return via SS340 to Menaggio. SP44 and then SS583 to reach Como.
Villas and views Back roads from Bellagio Ferry-hopping tour
After exploring the lanes of Como Head away from the bustle of Bellagio Leave the car in Bellagio 6 and take
1, follow the lake road past splendid 6 on this back route to Como, the ferry (www.my-lake-como-holiday.
villas. Take a detour to walk up to which heads up to the Santuario com) to Lenno/Villa Balbianello 4.
Sacro Monte di Ossuccio 3 for della Madonna del Ghisallo 8, Return to Bellagio for lunch, then hop
panoramic views, before ending up in dedicated to the patron saint of onto the ferry to Varenna 7 to see
Menaggio 5 for a swim at the lido. cyclists, before winding through the town and Castello di Vezio.

Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€45; expensive over €45


060-063_Back_Roads_Northern_Italy.indd 63 21/09/17 11:16 am

BRNI_064-065_OpnDrv5.indd 64 27/10/11 5:48 PM
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DRIVE 5





Turin Venice
IT AL Y
Genoa Bologna
Florence
Perugia
Rome



Lombardy’s

Glacial Valleys


Bergamo to

Erbusco




Highlights
• Split-level Bergamo
Explore ancient lanes of the
charming Upper Town, and
the grand buildings and
avenues of the Lower Town
• Untouched valleys
Well away from the tourist trail,
the Bergamasco and Brescian
valleys are an insight into life in
Lombardy through the ages
• Low-key lakeside
Slow down to the gentle pace at
quiet Lago d’Iseo – a world away
from the international holiday
resorts of the other northern lakes
• Sparkling vintages
Sip the country’s best fizzy wines
among the vineyard-clad, gently
rolling hills of Franciacorta


Steep wooded hillside and mountains
ringing Lago d’Iseo




BRNI_064-065_OpnDrv5.indd 65 27/10/11 5:48 PM

66 BACK ROADS NORTHERN AND CENTRAL ITALY

Lombardy’s Glacial Valleys

Many years ago, when Northern Italy’s glaciers retreated to the Alps, they
left behind a series of fertile valleys and pretty lakes backed by rugged hills.
Strategically located cities such as Bergamo and Brescia have a long history
as Roman, medieval and even Venetian strongholds. But there’s evidence of
much older human occupation up in the hills of the Val Camonica, where
Cedégolo
the rocks and caves are peppered with extraordinary prehistoric Cedégolo
petroglyphs. Further down the valley, Lago d’Iseo is the perfect place to Capo di
Capo di
unwind, while the sparkling wines and hills of the Franciacorta provide relief Ponte Ponte
VAL CAMONICAAMONICA
from summer heat. Throughout the region, hearty pastas, polenta, salamis Cemmo VAL C
Cemmo
and cheeses are washed down with good table wines. Cerveno
Cerveno
Villa Villa Ceto Ceto
Lósine
Lósine
Oglio Oglio Niardo
Niardo
Malegno
Malegno
Breno
Palline
Palline Breno Lago Lago
Borno di Vacca
Borno
di Vacca
V a l C a m ó n i c a
Cividate Camuno
KEY Ardésio Passo d. 1289m Cividate Camuno
Passo d. Presolana Presolana
Ardésio
1289m
Bienno
Drive route Bienno
Cma. Cma. del Fop del Fop M. Altissimo Esine Esine
M. Altissimo
2322m Valle Seriana Valle Seriana Castione Terme a l C a m ó n i c a Plemo Campolaro Passo di
2322m
1704m
1704m
Castione
Campolaro
Plemo
di Presolana
Passo di
di Presolana
Boarioio
Boar
Croce Domini
Croce Domini
Terme
Rovetta
LOMBARDIA
Sacca
Ángolo
Zambla
Zambla Piário Piário Rovetta Ángolo Terme Sacca LOMBARDIA
Oltre Oltre M. Cornet Terme
M. Cornet
il Colle
il Colle Oneta Parre Parre CLUSONECLUSONE San San 1423m V Dar Darfo Boario Termefo Boario Terme M. Fr M. Fraa
Oneta
1423m
2163m
Serina
Serina Lorenzo 2163m
Lorenzo
Rogno
Giánico
Ponte Nossa
Ponte Nossa Rogno Giánico
Gorno
M. Álben
M. Álben Gorno Giog Giogo di Balao di Bala
2162m
2162m
2019m
Artogne M. Muf
2019m Pzo. Formico Artogne M. Muffettofetto
Pzo. Formico
2060m
1637m
1637m Bossico Costa 2060m M. Colombine
M. Colombine
Costa
Bossico
Serio Serio Volpino Vissone 2215m
2215m
Vissone
Volpino
Casnigo
M. Campione
Fraine
Trafficanti
Trafficanti Casnigo Love Loverere Fraine M. Campione Collio Collio
Gandino
Vertova Gandino Pisogne 1827m
Vertova
1827m
Pisogne
Endine
Aviatico Endine Castro
Aviatico
Castro
Bovegno
Ambria
Ambria Leffe Leffe Gaiano Bovegno Mella Mella
Gaiano
Gazzaniga
Gazzaniga Solto Solto
Zogno C. Bianca Collina
Zogno C. Bianca
Collina
1228m
THE PYRAMIDSYRAMIDS
1228m THE P
Lago di
Selvino Cene Cene Bianzano Lago di Riva di
Bianzano
Selvino
Riva di
Endine
OF ZONEONE
Poscante
Poscante Endine Solto Solto Zone Zone OF Z Lavone
Lavone
Albino Gaverina i n a Tavernole
Albino
Parzanicae o Vello
Tavernole
Fonteno
Sorisole Nembro
M. Guglielmo sul Mella
Sorisole Nembro Gaverina Casazza Fonteno Mar Maroneone M. Guglielmo sul Mella
Terme l l
Casazza
Terme
Parzanica
1949m
1949m
Pradalunga
Ponteranica Pradalunga Va l C a l l i n a d ´ I s e o Vello
Ponteranica
Alzano
Alzano d ´ I s Brozzo
Brozzo
Lombardo
Adrara
Torre Torre Lombardo Cenato Va l C a Adrara Sale Sale
Marasinoasino
Mar
San Rocco
Tribolina
Boldone
MONTE
Above Bergamo’s Upper Town, dominated by the Boldone Tribolina Cenato Cherio Cherio San Rocco MONTE Mar Marchenocheno
ISOLA
di Sotto
Torre Gombito, see p68 Below Houses lining BERGA Gorle Gorle di Sotto ISOLA C. di Sonclivo
BERGAMOMO
C. di Sonclivo
L a g o SulzanoSulzano
Trescore
Gardone
the banks of Lago d’Iseo, see p70 Albano Trescore Predore Gardone 1351m
1351m
Albano
Predore
Val Trompia Ponte
Balneario
Moz Mozzozo Balneario Val Trompia Ponte
Pilzone
Seriate Sarnico L a g o Pilzone Zanano
Seriate
Sarnico
Zanano
Bergamo
Bergamo Bagnatica Gorlago Pola Polavenoveno Lumezzane
Bagnatica Gorlago
Lumezzane
Credaro
Orio al S Credaro Sarezzo
Orio al Serioerio
Sarezzo
Clusane ISEO
Clusane
Stezzano
Stezzano Grumello Castelli sul Lago ISEO
sul Lago
Castelli
Chiuduno Grumello
Brione
Grassobbio Chiuduno Calepio Provaglio c o r t a Brione Montagnone-
Grassobbio
di Monte Calepio
Montagnone-
ACTIVITIES Bolgare di Monte Corte Corte Provaglio Sonico
Sonico
d´Iseo i a
Bolgare
Franca
Zanica Oglio Oglio Franca d´Iseo F ra n c i a c o r t a Ome Ome Villa Villa
Zanica
Carcnia
Telgate Adro Adro F ra n c Carcnia
Telgate
Ride the funicular to Bergamo’s Upper Concesio
Concesio
Saiano
Town to uncover its history ERBUSCO Passir Saiano Bov Bovezzoezzo
Passiranoano
ERBUSCO
Gussago
Palazzolo
Palazzolo Paderno Gussago Nave Nave
Paderno
Rodengo
Take a relaxing boat trip on the Sull´Oglio Cazzago S. Rodengo Collebea
Sull´Oglio
Collebeatoto
Cazzago S.
Cologne
sparkling waters of Lago d’Iseo Cologne Mar Martinotino Cast Castegnatoegnato Mompiano
Mompiano
Rovato
Mandolossa
Explore the Roman mosaics and other Rovato Mandolossa M. Maddalena
M. Maddalena
historic treasures in ancient Brescia Ospitaletto 875m 875m
Ospitaletto
BRESCIA
BRESCIA
Travagliato
Travagliato
Tour the vineyards of the Franciacorta Roncadelle
Roncadelle
and sample its sparkling wines
Torbole
Casaglia Torbole
Casaglia
Hike through the pre-Alpine valleys and Naviglio
S. Zeno
S. Zeno
Naviglio
discover the prehistoric rock art Bettole
Bettole
Flero Flero
066-067_Back_Roads_Northern_Italy.indd 66 21/09/17 11:19 am
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DRIVE 5: Lombardy’s Glacial Valleys 67

PLAN YOUR DRIVE

Start/finish: Bergamo to Erbusco.
Number of days: 3 days.
Distance: Approx 230 km (143 miles).
Road conditions: Light industry and
Cedégolo heavy traffic mar the roads near to the
Cedégolo
cities, but the number of cars decreases
Capo di further up the valleys. Roads will be
Capo di
Ponte
Ponte
VAL CAMONICAAMONICA
VAL C busy on summer weekends. Tunnels
Cemmo
Cemmo should be taken with care.
Above Glacial mountain range along the Villa Villa Cerveno Ceto Ceto Opening times: Shops tend to open
Cerveno
Val Camonica, see p70 Below Lush 9am–1pm and 3–7pm Mon–Sat,
Lósine
Franciacorta vineyards near Iseo, see p70 Lósine although some shops in small villages
Oglio Oglio Niardo are closed on Mon morning.
Niardo
Malegno
Malegno
Breno
Palline
Palline Breno Lago Lago
Borno Cividate Camuno di Vacca When to go: Spring and early summer
Borno
di Vacca
V a l C a m ó n i c a
Cividate Camuno
Passo d.
Passo d. Presolana Presolana
see the Alpine flowers at their best,
Valle Seriana Valle Seriana
Ardésio
1289m
Bienno
M. Altissimo
Cma. Cma. del Fop del Fop Ardésio 1289m M. Altissimo Esine Esine Bienno while autumn is marked by wild
1704m
1704m
2322m
2322m Castione Terme a l C a m ó n i c a Plemo Campolaro Passo di mushrooms and wine festivals.
Campolaro
Castione
Plemo
Passo di
di Presolana
di Presolana
Boarioio
Boar
Croce Domini
Croce Domini
Terme
Rovetta
Sacca
LOMBARDIA
Zambla
Ángolo
Zambla Piário Piário Rovetta Ángolo Terme Sacca LOMBARDIA Main market days: Clusone: Tue
Oltre Oltre M. Cornet Terme morning; Iseo: Fri morning; Lovere:
M. Cornet
il Colle
il Colle Oneta Parre Parre CLUSONECLUSONE San San 1423m V Dar Darfo Boario Termefo Boario Terme M. Fr M. Fraa Sat morning.
1423m
Oneta
2163m
Serina
Serina Lorenzo 2163m
Lorenzo
Giánico
Rogno
Ponte Nossa
Ponte Nossa Rogno Giánico
Gorno
M. Álben
M. Álben Gorno Giog Giogo di Balao di Bala Shopping: Look out for local produce
2162m
2162m
2019m Pzo. Formico Artogne M. Muffettofetto such as mountain cheese (formagella),
Artogne M. Muf
2019m
Pzo. Formico
2060m
1637m Bossico Costa 2060m M. Colombine
1637m
M. Colombine
Costa
Bossico
Serio Serio Volpino Vissone 2215m salami and pasta (casoncei, scarpinocc),
2215m
Vissone
Volpino
Casnigo
M. Campione
Fraine
Trafficanti Casnigo Love Loverere Fraine M. Campione Collio Collio as well as Franciacorta sparkling wines.
Trafficanti
Gandino
Vertova
Vertova Gandino Pisogne 1827m
1827m
Pisogne
Endine
Aviatico Endine Castro Major festivals: Bergamo: Sant’
Aviatico
Castro
Bovegno
Ambria Leffe Leffe Gaiano Bovegno Mella Mella
Ambria
Gaiano
Gazzaniga Solto Solto Alessandro, 26 Aug; Santa Lucia,
Gazzaniga
Collina
Zogno C. Bianca
Zogno C. Bianca Collina
1228m
THE PYRAMIDSYRAMIDS
1228m THE P 13 Dec; Brescia: Mille Miglia vintage
Lago di
Selvino
Selvino Cene Cene Bianzano Lago di Riva di
Bianzano
Riva di
Endine
OF ZONEONE
Poscante Endine Solto Solto Zone Zone OF Z Lavone car race, 2nd week of May; Erbusco:
Poscante
Lavone
Albino
Albino Gaverina i n a Tavernole Franciacorta festival, 3rd weekend
Parzanicae o Vello
Tavernole
Fonteno
Sorisole Nembro
M. Guglielmo sul Mella
Terme l l
Casazza
Sorisole Nembro Gaverina Casazza Fonteno Mar Maroneone M. Guglielmo sul Mella of Sep.
Terme
Parzanica
1949m
1949m
Pradalunga
Ponteranica Pradalunga Va l C a l l i n a d ´ I s e o Vello
Ponteranica
Alzano d ´ I s Brozzo 0 kilometres 8
Alzano
Brozzo
Lombardo
Adrara
Torre Torre Lombardo Cenato Va l C a Adrara Sale Sale
Tribolina
Boldone Tribolina San Rocco Mar Marasinoasino Mar Marchenocheno DAY TRIP OPTIONS
Boldone
MONTE
Cenato Cherio Cherio San Rocco MONTE 0 miles 8
ISOLA
di Sotto
di Sotto ISOLA
C. di Sonclivo
BERGAMOMO
BERGA Gorle Gorle C. di Sonclivo See the medieval and Renaissance
Gardone
L a g o SulzanoSulzano
Trescore
1351m
Albano
Albano Trescore Predore Gardone 1351m buildings of Bergamo and then drive
Predore
Val Trompia Ponte
Moz Mozzozo Balneario Val Trompia Ponte
Balneario
Pilzone
Seriate
Seriate Sarnico L a g o Pilzone Zanano along Val Seriana to Clusone. Or,
Zanano
Sarnico
Bergamo Bagnatica Gorlago Pola Polavenoveno Lumezzane
Bergamo
Bagnatica Gorlago
Lumezzane
Credaro
Orio al S Credaro Sarezzo from Lago d’Iseo, spend time on
Orio al Serioerio
Sarezzo
Clusane ISEO
Clusane
Stezzano
Stezzano Grumello Castelli sul Lago ISEO Monte Isola for some lakeside
sul Lago
Castelli
Chiuduno Grumello
Grassobbio Chiuduno di Monte Calepio Corte Provaglio c o r t a Brione Montagnone- relaxation, finishing with a trip to
Grassobbio
Brione
Montagnone-
di Monte Calepio
Sonico
Bolgare
Bolgare Corte Provaglio d´Iseo i a Sonico
Franca
Zanica Oglio Oglio Franca d´Iseo F ra n c i a c o r t a Ome Ome Villa Villa Zone to see the stunning rock
Zanica
Carcnia
Telgate
Telgate Adro Adro F ra n c Carcnia formations. Explore the wineries,
Concesio
Saiano Concesio vineyards – and wines – of beautiful
Saiano
Passiranoano
ERBUSCO Passir Bov Bovezzoezzo Franciacorta. For full details, see p71.
ERBUSCO
Gussago
Palazzolo Paderno Gussago Nave Nave
Palazzolo
Paderno
Rodengo
Sull´Oglio
Sull´Oglio Rodengo Collebea
Collebeatoto
Cazzago S.
Cologne Cazzago S.
Cologne
Martinotino
Mar
Mompiano
Cast Castegnatoegnato Mompiano
Rovato Mandolossa M. Maddalena
Rovato
Mandolossa
M. Maddalena
Ospitaletto
Ospitaletto 875m 875m
BRESCIA
BRESCIA
Travagliato
Travagliato
Roncadelle
Roncadelle
Torbole
Casaglia
Casaglia Torbole
S. Zeno
S. Zeno
Naviglio
Naviglio
Bettole
Bettole
Flero Flero
066-067_Back_Roads_Northern_Italy.indd 67 21/09/17 11:19 am

68 BACK ROADS NORTHERN AND CENTRAL ITALY

1 Bergamo
Bergamo, Lombardia; 24100
In the foothills of the Alps, prosperous Bergamo has an attractive
Città Alta (Upper Town) whose Renaissance buildings and medieval
lanes are encircled by impressive 17th-century Venetian walls. The
medieval neighbourhoods and elegant avenues of the Città Bassa
(Lower Town) are good for shopping and transport.
A three-hour walking tour country side. The bells strike 100
From the car park, turn right up the times at 10pm, recalling an era
sweeping main road, Viale Vittorio when the gates would be closed
Emanuele II, taking in the mix of for the night.
Above The spectacular dome in the Basilica di attractive gated villas and 1930s Pass under the arcade of the
Santa Maria Maggiore, Bergamo Fascist architecture. Just around the palazzo into Piazza del Duomo.
bend is the funicular 1 that takes The highlights here are the
visitors up to the Città Alta. Trundling Romanesque church of Santa Maria
VISITING BERGAMO
up through the city walls and Maggiore, with its opulent Baroque
Parking splendid palazzo gardens, this interior, and the funerary chapel
On-street parking is hard to find in 7-minute ride ends near the Cappella Colleoni (1472), a
Bergamo’s centre. Head for the medieval Piazza Mercato delle Renaissance extravagance of
underground car parks at Piazza della Scarpe 2, once home to a twisted columns and pastel
Libertà or Piazzale della Repubblica, off
Viale Vittorio Emanuele II. If you’ve got shoe market. Follow Via marble decorated with
one, show a funicular ticket when Gombito, almost opposite, Giambattista Tiepolo’s
paying, to get a discount on Sundays. past the 12th-century Torre frescoes (1733).
Tourist Information Gombito 3, the only extant Return to Piazza Vecchia,
There are guided walking tours (Apr– medieval tower of which then turn left up Via
Oct: 3pm) and bicycles can be hired. there were about 20; this Colleoni past boutiques.
Città Bassa: Viale Papa Giovanni XXIII one marks the main cross- Contarini fountain Head through the arch at
57, 24122; 035 210 204. Città Alta:
Torre Gombito 13, 24129; 035 242 226; roads of the Roman city. statue, Piazza Vecchia Piazza Mascheroni into
www.comune.bergamo.it Continue up to Piazza Piazza della Cittadella, once
Vecchia 4, the city’s Renaissance the heart of this military stronghold.
VISITING CLUSONE showpiece and site of the medieval Cross the courtyard to the gateway
Tourist Information Palazzo della Ragione (temporary diagonally opposite, then turn left
Piazza Orologio 21, 24023; 0346 21 exhibitions: 10am–6pm Tue–Sun). The into Colle Aperto 5 for views of the
113; www.turismoproclusone.it piazza is lined with cafés and at its gardens and vine yards around the
Market day heart is the 18th-century Contarini city walls. Head through Porta
On Mondays, the lanes are taken over fountain with white marble lions. Sant’Alessandro to the upper
by a market selling local salamis, cheese Next to the palazzo, the Torre Civica funicular station.
and fresh pasta. Smallholders from the
hills nearby sell home-grown produce. belltower rises 52 m (170 ft), offering Take the funicular up to the San
splendid views of Bergamo and the Vigilio 6 neighbourhood, ideal for a
WHERE TO STAY Below left Façade of the Cappella Colleoni, Bergamo Below right View along Bergamo’s funicular
BERGAMO
La Valletta Relais inexpensive
This spick and span, family-run hotel
on the hillside has pretty rooms.
Via Castagneta 19, Città Alta 24129;
035 242 746; www.lavallettabergamo.it
Torre Gombito expensive
Set in a medieval tower in the heart of
the Upper Town, this contemporary
boutique hotel offers small, tidy rooms.
Via Mario Lupo 6, Città Alta, 24129;
035 247 009; www.gombithotel.it
CLUSONE
Albergo Commercio e Ristorante
Masci inexpensive
Simple, attractive rooms and a good
restaurant in the village centre.
Piazza Paradiso 1, 24023; 0346 21 267;
www.mas-ci.it




068-071_Back_Roads_Northern_Italy.indd 68 21/09/17 11:16 am

DRIVE 5: Lombardy’s Glacial Valleys 69



0 metres 400
V I A SAN VIGILIO
San 0 yards 400
Vigilio
Colle
Aperto
PORTA CITTADELLA
V IA DEGLI ORTI
SANT’ VIA D ELLA BOCCOL A VIALE DELLA FARA
PIAZZA
ALESSANDRO MASCHERONI Città Alta
VIALE DELLE MURAPIAZZA DELLA VIA DEL VAGINE VIA TAS S I S VIA SAN LORENZ O
VIA COLLEONI Piazza
Vecchia
Torre Civica
VIA TRE A RMI
Cappella VIA GOMBITO
Colleoni VIA PORTA D IPINTA
PIAZZA DEL Torre
VIA DELLO SATUT O delle Scarpe
DUOMO Gombito
Piazza
Mercato
VIALE DELLE MURA
VIA TRE ARMI
Porta San V VITTORIO EMANUELE II
Giacomo
Funicular
VIA ALBERTO RIVA VILLASANTA
VIA SANTA LUCIA VIA ANTONIO VIA SA N T’A L E SSANDRO ANTONIO LOCATETTI
VIA BRIGATA LUPI
ROSMINI
PIAZZALE
DELLA
CARLO BOTTA REPUBBLICA Above View of the Duomo and its Neo-Classical
VIA DON
VI A DE L LO S TATU TO
V SAN CARLO
VIA TORINO
VIA MILANO
west façade from Torre Civica, Bergamo
VIALE VITTORIO EMANUELE II
VIA FRAN CESCO NULLO
EAT AND DRINK
drink with sweeping views across the cobbled lanes rising up to the Piazza BERGAMO
city to the plains. Exit the funicular Orologio, where the frescoed
station and follow the road round to and porticoed Palazzo Comunale Cooperativa Città Alta inexpensive
Great-value, hearty portions of local
the left and on to the belvedere area, sports a working astronomical clock pasta, polenta and grilled meats are
which has splendid views over 19th- from 1585. Still higher stands the served under the vines.
century villas and gardens – the sum- Baroque Basilica di Santa Maria Vicolo Sant’Agata 19 (off Via Colleoni),
mer homes of wealthy Milanese. Rest Assunta, with a wonderful 15th- 24129; 035 218 568; www.ilcircolino
here, then head down steep Via San century fresco of the Triumph of Death cittaalta.it
Vigilio, keeping the funicular lines on and a Dance Macabre next door; note Baretto di San Vigilio moderate
the left. Turn left through Porta the rich kings and bishops trying to The views from this elegant restaurant
Sant’Alessandro to return to Colle bribe their way out of death. create a romantic atmosphere.
Via al Castello di San Vigilio 1, Colle
Aperto. Here, catch the bus (line 1) to ª Back at the roundabout, take the San Vigilio, 24129; 035 253 191;
the car park or walk back along the SS671 left towards Rovetta, then right www.barettosanvigilio.it
lovely Venetian walls. To do the latter, on SP53 to Lovere. Through Lovere, Vineria Cozzi moderate
head down Viale delle Mura, on the follow signs to Darfo Boario Terme on This is a classy enoteca with a stylish,
right, all the way to Porta San the SR55, then take the SS42 north up good-quality restaurant attached.
Giacomo 7, then take winding Via the Val Camonica to Capo di Ponte. At Via Colleoni 22/A, 24129; 035 238 836;
Sant’Alessandro down through a the roundabout at the village entrance, www.vineriacozzi.it
medieval neighbourhood to Via Don follow the brown signs to Naquane and
Carlo Botta, which leads left, back to Parco Nazionale delle Incisoni Below Panificio Tresoldi, a bakery-patisserie in
Viale Vittorio Emanuele II and the car Rupestri over the railway line. Park by Bergamo’s medieval Città Alta (Upper Town)
park at Piazzale della Repubblica. the 15th-century church. The park
ª South of Bergamo, pick up the entrance is a 10-minute walk uphill.
SS671 (signed Val Seriana) and follow
signs to Clusone for 32 km (20 miles). Bergamo’s polenta
On the roundabout after the small The yellow cornmeal staple,
Fonti Pineta mineral water plant, polenta, features heavily on many
follow signs to the centre and use of Bergamo’s restaurant menus
one of the marked car parks. and has been enjoyed in the region
for centuries. It can be served with
salami, wild mushrooms, melted
2 Clusone Taleggio cheese or roast veal. Or
Bergamo, Lombardia; 24023 you might find it sliced and
High in the mill-lined Val Seriana, chargrilled along with a selection
Clusone is an appealing medieval of fresh vegetables.
town of pastel-coloured houses and
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€45; expensive, over €45
068-071_Back_Roads_Northern_Italy.indd 69 21/09/17 11:16 am

70 BACK ROADS NORTHERN AND CENTRAL ITALY


on the area’s moranic sand has created
these extraordinary columns which are
often topped by a granite boulder. At
the entrance to the park stands the
12th-century Chiesa di San Giorgio,
with frescoes of Saint George slaying
dragons and the the profile of
Florentine writer Dante, who visited
the area in the 14th century.
ª Return to Marone via SP32, take
SP510bis south to Iseo, which has
several pay-and-display car parks.
5 Iseo
Brescia, Lombardia; 25049
The largest village on the eastern
side of Lago d’Iseo, ancient Iseo was
an important trading post before it
was sacked by Federico I Barabarossa
in the 12th century. Now a low-key
resort, the semi-pedestrianized
medieval village centre boasts an
Above View of Sale Marasino, one of Lago arcaded main square, stone lanes, a
d’Iseo’s pretty villages Top right Sale 3 Val Camonica handful of decent restaurants and
Marasino’s church, seen from the lake ferry Brescia, Lombardia; 25044 a lakeside promenade with views
Above right Iron Age rock carvings at Parco Scattered over the hillsides of the Val across the water to the wooded cliffs
Nazionale delle Incisioni Rupestri Camonica are thousands of stones of the opposite shore. Ferries leave
inscribed with fascinating prehistoric here for destinations around the lake,
VISITING VAL CAMONICA rock carvings. Dating from Neolithic most notably to Monte Isola.
times through to the Iron Age, ª Leave the car behind and catch a
Tourist Information
Via S Briscioli 42, Capo di Ponte, Brescia together they are recognized as a ferry across to Monte Isola.
25044; 0364 42 080; www. UNESCO World Heritage Site. One of
invallecamonica.it the largest concentrations is found 6 Monte Isola
WHERE TO STAY just outside Capo di Ponte. The Parco Brescia, Lombardia; 25050
Nazionale delle Incisioni Rupestri The largest lake island in Europe,
VAL CAMONICA (open 8:30am–dusk Tue–Sun; www. Monte Isola is 9 km (6 miles) around
Casa Visnenza inexpensive parcoincisioni.capodiponte.beniculturali. and more than 600 m (2,000 ft) high,
This comfy B&B in Cemmo, right next to it) is an attractive, open-air site littered topped by the Santuario della
Capo di Ponte, is run by owners who
are knowledgeable about local sights. with more than 100 carved boulders Madonna della Ceriola, with fabulous
Via San Faustino 7, 25044 Cemmo di that can be explored over a couple 360-degree views. Arriving is part of
Capo di Ponte; 320 906 4557; closed Mon of hours. Wonderfully evocative and the fun, with lovely views of lakeside
–Fri Mar–Nov; www.casavisnenza.com dynamic, scenes portray hunts and villages along the way. Stroll along
funerals, boats, and people dancing,
ISEO
La Tesa inexpensive farming, fighting and worshipping. Below Passenger ferry cruising across Lago d’Iseo
An organic farm in the hills above Iseo ª Return back down the SS42, forking past stunning mountain scenery
offering simple apartments and rooms. right on SP510 towards Brescia. After
Via Silvio Bonomelli, Colline d’Iseo a series of tunnels, turn right onto the
25049; 030 982 2984; closed Jan–Feb; lakeside SP510bis, signed Lago d’Iseo.
www.latesa.it
In Marone, just after the parish church
BRESCIA on the right, take the poorly signed left
Albergo Orologio inexpensive turn to Zone SP32 (down the side of the
Something of a boutique hotel, this is Municipio building), then drive up the
a cosy place in the centre of town. winding road to the car park at Zone.
Via Cesare Beccaria 17, 25121; 030 375
5411; www.albergoorologio.it
4 The Pyramids of Zone
ERBUSCO Brescia, Lombardia; 25050
L’Albereta expensive Strange rock formations, resembling
Every comfort is catered for at this giant anthills, pepper the natural
luxurious Relais & Chateaux hotel. reserve around the village of Zone,
Via Vittorio Emanuele 23, 25030; 030
776 0550; www.albereta.it high above Lago d’Iseo. Rain erosion
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €100; moderate, €100–200; expensive, over €200

068-071_Back_Roads_Northern_Italy.indd 70 21/09/17 11:16 am

DRIVE 5: Lombardy’s Glacial Valleys 71


the waterfront, or hire a bicycle and
explore its tiny villages, stopping for
a meal en route – strong legs are
needed to get up to the Santuario.
ª From Iseo, take a right on SP47bis
to Ome, then SP46 to Rodengo-
Saiano, through Gussago past the
church on the left and after the town
centre take right. From here take the
main road out of town and follow
signs to Brescia, which has plenty of
on-street pay-parking.
Above Small vineyard in Franciacorta, near
June 9.30am–4.30pm; www.bresciamusei. Erbusco Left Ruined columns of the Roman
com) has fine Roman mosaics and Tempio Capitolino in Brescia
medieval treasures, including a
4th-century bronze Winged Victory. EAT AND DRINK
ª Retrace route back towards Iseo ISEO
(follow signs to “Milan, Bergamo and Da Piccioli inexpensive
Lago d’Iseo”), but turn left on SP49, Fried seafood, frogs legs & chips are
follow signs to the autostrada that on offer at this lakeside establishment.
leads to the Strada del Franciacorta. Via Cristini, Marone, 25054;
333 724 6847
8 Erbusco Osteria Il Volto moderate–expensive
Brescia, Lombardia; 25030 Blends mountain and lake flavors.
This village lies at the heart of a small Via Mirolte 3, 25049; 030 981 462; www.
osteriailvolto.it; closed Wed & Mon lunch
wine-producing area – known as
Franciacorta – dotted with ancient BRESCIA
religious buildings. The monasteries Osteria la Grotta moderate
that cultivated this land in the Expect Brescian food – casoncei (salami-
7 Brescia Middle Ages were tax exempt, lead- stuffed pasta) – in an elegant setting.
Vicolo del Prezzemolo 10, 25121; 030 44
Brescia, Lombardia; 25121 ing to the name Franciacorta. See 068; www.osterialagrotta.it
Known for its arms industry and www.franciacorta.it for information
engineering factories, Brescia also has on drives and cycle rides through the WINERIES IN FRANCIACORTA
an attractive medieval centre and well- idyllic countryside.
preserved Roman ruins. At the heart CA’ DEL BOSCO
Via Albano Zanella 13, 25030, Erbusco;
of the city is the broad, arcaded Piazza Franciacorta wines 030 776 6111; www.cadelbosco.com
della Loggia with an imposing palazzo The pleasant hills south of Lago CAVALLERI
at one end and the Torre dell’Orologio d’Iseo have been a wine-making Via Provinciale 96, 25030, Erbusco;
opposite. Via dei Musei follows an area for centuries. Attention turned 030 776 0217; www.cavalleri.it
ancient Roman road to the site of the to sparkling wines in the 1960s, and BELLAVISTA
forum, now Piazza del Foro, which is in 1995 the area was awarded the Via Bellavista 5, 25030, Erbusco;
DOCG, in recognition of the quality
topped by the columns of the Tempio of the sparkling wines made using 030 776 2000; www.terramoretti.it
Capitolino from AD 73. The nearby the champagne method, involving a FERGHETTINA
Museo di Santa Giulia (open Tue–Sun: a second fermentation in the bottle. Via Saline 11, 25030, Adro;
mid-Jun–Sep 10.30am–6pm, Oct–mid- 030 745 1212; www.ferghettina.it
DAY TRIP OPTIONS Follow the drive’s instructions, and back. Take the ferry to Monte Isola; afterwards
There are options for a city walk follow the SP510bis to Zone.
followed by a country drive, some Monte Isola and the Pyramids
lakeside relaxation or a wine tour. In Iseo 5, stock up with picnic Romans and wine tasting
provisions before taking the ferry to Explore Roman Brescia 7, then enjoy
Urban and rural exploration Monte Isola 6 to explore the island a tour of the Franciacorta wine region.
Spend the morning on a walking tour Head for Erbusco 8 and visit a few
of Bergamo 1, enjoying funicular for most of the day. Cycle round the of its wineries – perhaps on a bike.
rides and architecture from the 12th island, stopping to eat al fresco on
to the 18th century. After lunch, enjoy the way. Return to Iseo in the late Follow the drive’s instructions to
the countryside of the Val Seriana on afternoon, then drive to Zone to see Erbusco. You may be able to hire a
the way to medieval Clusone 2. the extraordinary rock formations. bicycle from a hotel or agriturismo.

Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€45; expensive, over €45


068-071_Back_Roads_Northern_Italy.indd 71 21/09/17 11:16 am

BRNI_072-073_OpnDrv6.indd 72 27/10/11 5:49 PM
Back Roads LAYERS PRINTED:
Section opener template “UK” LAYER
(OpenType)
Date 02 November 2009
Size 145mm x 217mm
Font Myriad Pro

DRIVE 6





Milan
Turin Venice
IT AL Y
Genoa Bologna
Florence
Perugia
Rome



Switchbacks

and Limonaie


Arco to

Gargnano



Highlights

• Lake Garda
Indulge in watersports at Riva del
Garda, or visit the lemon-growing
glasshouses along the lakeshore,
where olive groves and citrus trees
carpet the hillsides
• Austrian heritage
Explore the Germanic heritage and
cuisine of Lake Garda’s northern most
towns, which were once part
of the Austro-Hungarian Empire
• Adrenalin-fuelled drives
Corkscrew through the Brasa gorge
away from the lake into the wooded,
Alpine interior of the Tremosine
• Enchanting Gargnano
Be charmed by this laid-back lakeside
village and its peeling Art Nouveau
villas and ancient churches


The broad Gardesana Occidentale, winding
along the steep banks of Lake Garda




BRNI_072-073_OpnDrv6.indd 73 27/10/11 5:49 PM

74 BACK ROADS NORTHERN AND CENTRAL ITALY

Switchbacks and Limonaie
TRENTINO-
Lago
Running along the northwestern shore of Lago di Garda, this di Tenno AL TO ADIGE
route is for those who enjoy challenging drives. From the ARCO
medieval village of Arco and the lakeside resort of Riva del Pranzo Tenno Bolognano
Garda, the road skirts the lake before branching on to an Pieve Campi Varone
exhilarating switchback – the eighth wonder of the di Ledro Cima d’Oro
1802m
world, according to Winston Churchill – up to the Lago Mezzolago RIVA DEL GARDA
comune of Tremosine. The climb through thick di Ledro Molina Torbole Nago
woodland brings breathtaking views and, at the di Ledro
end, a walk up to the Santuario della Madonna Pregasina d a Loppio
di Montecastello. The drive ends in dreamy Monte Tremalzo r
1975m
Gargnano, set among olive groves and the a
limonaie (sheltered lemon groves) that Limone G
give this shoreline its name. Cima del Fratone sul Garda
1785m
San Michele
Monte Caplone Vesio
1976m Navene

PIEVE PORTO TO PIEVE:
PIEVE TO TIGNALE SP38
Cadria Arias i
Turano SANTUARIO Prabione d Malcesine

DELLA MADONNA
Valvestino DI MONTECASTELLO Campione


del Garda
LOMBARDIA Tignale Val di Sogno
Costa Piovere
Lago di o 0 kilometres 5
Valvestino Monte Denervo
1460m g
a 0 miles 5
L Brenzone
GARGNANO VENETO
Monte Navazzo
Pizzocolo PLAN YOUR DRIVE
1581m
Bogliaco
Start/finish: Arco to Gargnano.
Pai
Number of days: 1 day.
KEY
Distance: Approx 60 km (37 miles).
Drive route
Road conditions: Roads are narrow and
winding, and busy in summer. In winter,
the switch backs are impass able due to
Above The Torre Apponale on the Riva del Garda waterfront Below View from Arco’s castle snow. The lakeside road plunges through
Opposite Narrow streets and brightly painted townhouses, Arco
galleried tunnels into dazzling sunlight.
When to go: Apr–Jun is ideal. Autumn,
too, is pretty, but most places shut up
shop from the end of Oct until Easter.
Opening times: Shops tend to open
9am–1pm and 3–7pm Mon–Sat. In villages,
some are closed on Mon mornings.
Main market days: Arco: Wed; antiques
market every 3rd Sat; Riva and
Gargnano: Wed am; Tignale: Tue.
Major festivals: Gargnano: Centomiglia
Regatta, 2nd week in Sep; Pieve: Easter
Sunday.


074-075_Back_Roads_Northern_Italy.indd 74 06/11/17 5:27 pm

DRIVE 6: Switchbacks and Limonaie 75


1 Arco
TRENTINO- Trento, Trentino-Alto Adige
Lago
di Tenno AL TO ADIGE The Castello (Jan: open Sat & Sun, Feb–
ARCO Dec: open daily) atop the rocky outcrop
Pranzo Tenno looming over Arco was built in the
Bolognano
Pieve Campi Varone 12th century, and the 30-minute wan-
der up to it from the central Piazza 11
di Ledro Cima d’Oro
1802m Novembre affords panoramic views.
Mezzolago RIVA DEL GARDA
Lago Arco became a popular winter retreat
di Ledro Nago in the 19th century, when, as part of
Molina
di Ledro Torbole
the Austrian Empire, its mild climate
Pregasina a Loppio attracted Central European aristocracy.
Monte Tremalzo d Explore the wonderful public gardens
1975m r on Viale delle Palme and an impressive
a
G arboretum in the Parco Arciducale
Arboreto (open daily), which formed
Limone
Cima del Fratone the grounds of the Habsburg
1785m sul Garda
San Michele Archduke Albert’s winter palace.
Monte Caplone Vesio ª Follow the well-signposted SS45b Above left Living on the edge in Pieve
1976m Navene for 6 km (4 miles) to reach the centre 17 km (11 miles). Take the second right Above The Castello di Arco, high above

PIEVE PORTO TO PIEVE: of Riva del Garda, from where the car turn for Tremosine up SP38. the town
PIEVE TO TIGNALE SP38 parks are clearly signposted.
Cadria Arias i 3 Porto to Pieve: SP38
Turano SANTUARIO Prabione d Malcesine 2 Riva del Garda Brescia, Lombardia

DELLA MADONNA
Valvestino DI MONTECASTELLO Campione Trento, Trentino-Alto Adige; 38066 When the SP38 opened in 1913, the


del Garda VISITING ARCO
LOMBARDIA Tignale Val di Sogno Always a strategic trading post, and German newspaper Frankfurter
Costa Piovere part of the Venetian, then the Austro- Zeitung dubbed it “the most beautiful Tourist Information
Lago di Hungarian Empire until 1918, this fine road in the world”. Linking isolated Viale del Palme 1, 38062; 0464 532 255;
Valvestino Monte Denervo o www.gardatrentino.it
1460m g lakeside resort of cobbled piazzas, mountain communities with the lake,
a stone buildings and atmospheric this exhilarating road switchbacks
L Brenzone lanes is now a focus for watersports, through narrow tunnels and wooded VISITING RIVA DEL GARDA
with windsurfing and sailing oppor- valleys, squeezing impos sibly through Tourist Information
GARGNANO VENETO tunities galore. Offering beautiful the spectacular Brasa gorge, and Largo Medaglie d’Oro 5, 38066; 0464
Monte Navazzo 554 444; www.gardatrentino.it
Pizzocolo views of Lago di Garda, the town’s up to the green hills of Tremosine.
1581m broad Piazza 3 Novembre is lined with The SP38 has been the setting for
Bogliaco VISITING PIEVE
porticoed buildings and watched over numerous car commercials, as well
by the 13th-century Torre Apponale. as breathtaking car chases in the Tourist Information
Pai
To the west, above the waterfront, is Bond film Quantum of Solace. Piazza Marconi 1, 25010; Tremosine;
the 12th-century Bastione, built by ª Follow SP38 for about 6 km (4 miles) 0365 953 185; www.infotremosine.it,
www.gardalombardia.com
the Venetians in 1508, on Monte from the lake to Pieve at the top of the
Rocchetta. The pleasant walk up to mountain, where many village centre
this ruined fortress is rewarded with car parks are signposted. WHERE TO STAY IN
RIVA DEL GARDA
sensational views over the lake.
ª Leave Riva on SS45bis, heading 4 Pieve Restel de Fer inexpensive
south past Limone sul Garda, for about Tremosine, Brescia, Lombardia; 25010 Owned by the friendly Menghelli family
One of the many hillside villages in for more than 600 years, this farmhouse
the comune of Tremosine, Pieve has offers a handful of atmospherically
an attractive centre of stone-built furnished rooms. The locally sourced
food in the restaurant is also excellent.
houses. At 350 m (1,148 ft) above the Via Restel de Fer 10, 38066;
lake, there are wonderful views across 0464 553 481; www.resteldefer.com
the sparkling waters to Monte Baldo
opposite. The town’s church has an EAT AND DRINK IN
11th-century Romanesque bell tower RIVA DEL GARDA
but its main building, built later, is lit
by Murano glass chandeliers, adding Osteria il Gallo moderate
to its elegant Baroque interior. This friendly, informal eatery in Riva
ª From the centre, head southwest centre serves hearty dishes of polenta,
out of town, following the signposted dumplings and home-made pasta,
accompanied by good local wines.
route to the next village, Arias, and Piazza San Rocco 12, 38066; 0464 556
then on towards Tignale. 200; www.osteriailgallo.com
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€45; expensive, over €45
074-075_Back_Roads_Northern_Italy.indd 75 21/09/17 11:16 am

76 BACK ROADS NORTheRN AND CeNTRAL iTALy


(half a mile) beyond the woodmill
outside Prabione. To reach the
sanctuary by car, follow signs on
the road that descends to SS45bis.
6 Santuario di Madonna
di Montecastello
Tignale, Brescia, Lombardia; 25080
This 17th-century sanctuary is built
over an ancient castle has an older
chapel decorated with Renaissance
frescoes. it is a peaceful spot, reached
by a steep 20-minute walk that is
Above left View over the Santuario di Madonna rewarded with magnificent views
di Montecastello Above right Fresco in the 5 Pieve to Tignale Road and a small café (Mar–Oct: open
Santuario di Madonna di Montecastello Brescia, Lombardia daily). extend the walk for another 20
Below Boats at Gargnano’s harbourside Driving through valleys of beech, ash minutes by following the path past
and chestnut, past cool streams, the eremo (hermitage) up to the
Alpine meadows and sheer mountain cross at the top of nearby Monte Cas.
visitinG GarGnano bluffs, it is easy to forget the bustle of ª Continue down the mountain to the
the lake below. There are several view- lakeside road, the SS45bis. Turn right
Tourist Information
Piazzale Boldini 2, 25084; 0365 791 243; points and picnic spots along the way. and head south to Gargnano, to the
www.gargnanosulgarda.it ª Follow signs to Tignale. The road­ signposted, covered car park opposite
side car park for the sanctuary is 1 km the tourist office on the main road.
where to stay in and 7 Gargnano
around GarGnano
Brescia, Lombardia; 25084
Hotel Du Lac moderate Perhaps the prettiest village on Lake Garda, Gargnano is a series of
Superbly located on the lakeside, in a frazione (neighbourhoods) strung out along the waterfront between
quiet corner of the village, this is the
smaller of two neighbouring hotels olive woods and secluded limonaie. The village is relatively untroubled
run by the same family for three by tourism and is perfect for a gentle wander or a lazy afternoon in
generations. Rooms have fine period the shade of an orange tree with dreamy lake views.
fur niture and there is a pretty terrace
and pergola with panoramic views.
Via Colletta 21, 25084, Villa di A two-hour walking tour possible to peek inside by climbing
Gargnano; 0365 71107; www.hotel- From the car park, walk down Via the steps leading to the locked door
dulac.it; closed Nov–Mar
Roma away from the main road. The just before the church. Continue
Hotel Villa Sostaga expensive cloister of a 13th-century Franciscan down the lane to reach the pretty
On the hillside above Gargnano,
this welcoming, family-run villa offers monastery stands next to the Baroque main square of Gargnano and its
informal luxury in 11 handsomely Church of San Francesco 1 just little marina. A building near the
furnished rooms. There are splendid down on the right. The columns in 16th-century Palazzo Comunale 2,
views from the lovely grounds and the cloister are decorated with citrus displays cannonballs that were
pool. A well-priced restaurant (open fruits – a reference to the Franciscan wedged into its walls during the 1866
to non-residents) serves memorable
seasonal specialities. introduction of lemon cultivation to War of independence against Austria.
Via Sostaga 19, 25084, Navazzo; the area. Legal wrangles keep the head round the waterfront and east
0365 791 218; www.villasostaga.com cloister closed to the public, but it is out of the square to Via Rimembranza
to take in the 19th-century Palazzo
Feltrinelli 3 on the right. Now part
of the University of Milan, the palace
was built by the paper and
publishing magnates whose
patronage can be seen throughout
the village – in the hospital, the
infant school and numerous family
houses. The public beach 4 is a few
minutes further along on the right in
a grassy olive grove. The lane
continues past several splendid
Liberty (italian Art Nouveau) villas,
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €100; moderate, €100–€200; expensive, over €200


BRNI_076-077_CatDrive6.indd 76 02/09/14 2:16 PM

DRIVE 6: Switchbacks and Limonaie 77


notably the luxurious Villa Feltrinelli abandoned olive oil factory on the
5, now a top-class hotel, but formerly right. This scrubby path leads back
home to the Fascist leader Benito to the car park, from where Via
Mussolini and his family during the Donatore di Sangue branches off to
Republic of Salò (see p83). Continue the Escola Materna Feltrinelli, an
along the peaceful lane, past olive infant school, on the left and the
groves and occasional glimpses of working limonaie on the right, on the
the lake, to reach a large limonaie other side of the main road (the
and the tiny Romanesque chapel of SS45bis). The shady cobbled lane
San Giacomo di Calino 6. This continues into the charming
11th-century church is one of the neighbourhood of Villa 7, which
oldest on the lake. It is a peaceful has a couple of hotels and a tiny
place, with a 14th-century fresco of picture-postcard port with a popular
St Christopher on the lakeside wall, bar. Down at Via Colletta 44 8, a
opposite the tiny shingle beach. This plaque declares that DH Lawrence
lovely spot is ideal for a picnic. lived here with his lover Frieda over
Return to the harbour in the village the winter of 1912–13 while writing
centre and take the lakeside lane Twilight in Italy, an evocative piece
round Hotel Gargnano, where the on village life and the beauty of this Above Stone buildings of pretty Gargnano
English novelist DH Lawrence spent area. Retrace your steps to the car. Below right View of the Riviera di Limonaie
a night in 1912. Continue along the Bottom left Limonaie along the shoreline of
walkways, past the waterfront villas Lemon Cultivation Lake Garda Below left Lemon souvenirs from
and their boathouses, keeping the In the 13th century, Franciscan the Riviera di Limonaie
monks founded a monastery in
Gargnano and introduced citrus eat and drink in GarGnanO
San Giacomo
di Calino cultivation to the Lake Garda area.
Limonaie, or purpose-built terraces Miralago moderate
This lakefront restaurant serves well-
V I A MUSLO N E V I A DEGL I O L EANDR I VI A S A N G I A C O M O the plants during the winter months. service is relaxed and professional.
for growing lemon trees, were intro-
judged fish and seafood dishes. The
duced in the 17th century to protect
Via Zanardelli 5, 25084; 0365 71209;
Dotted on the hillsides, these
closed Tue, Jan & Feb
V I A R E PU B B L I C A Villa Feltrinelli scale had ended by the 20th stylish dining room and knowledgeable
skeletal structures have brick walls
and terraced lines of narrow pillars.
La Tortuga expensive
Citrus farming on a commercial
This Michelin-starred restaurant has a
V I A RIME M B R A N Z A V I A R I M E M B R A N Z A
century, because of blight and
staff. The wines are well priced.
cheaper alternatives, but some
Via XXIV Maggio 5, 25084; 0365 71251;
www.ristorantelatortuga.it; closed Tue
limonaie are still open to the public.
& Nov–1st wk Mar
Lago di
Garda
A R EPU B B L I C A Beach
Palazzo Feltrinelli
V I A D E L L A L I B E R TÀ V I 0 metres 500 500
PIAZZA
FELTRINELLI Palazzo Comunale
V IA RO MA
Church of San Francesco
0 yards
Villa
Via Colletta 44

Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€45; expensive, over €45


BRNI_076-077_CatDrive6.indd 77 02/09/14 2:16 PM

BRNI_078-079_OpnDrv7.indd 78 02/09/14 2:16 PM

DRIVE 7




Milan
Turin Venice
Genoa Bologna
IT AL Y
Florence
Perugia
Rome



From the Lake

to the Plains


Salò to

Mantua




Highlights
• Laidback lakeside resorts
Relax in the low-key towns that line
the lake with their pretty harbours,
belle époque villas and fine shingle
beaches – perfect for a quick dip
• Wonderful wines
Sip the delicious light wines produced
by the temperate climate and rolling
hills of Cavaion Veronese, to the east
and south of Lake Garda
• Renaissance showpiece
Explore medieval and Renaissance
Mantua whose elegant piazzas are
dominated by the palazzos of power
• Ruins with a view
Clamber the picturesque ruins of
a 1st-century AD Roman villa in a
charming olive grove at the very
tip of Sirmione’s promontory


Grotte di Catullo, ruins of a Roman villa at
Sirmione, Lake Garda




BRNI_078-079_OpnDrv7.indd 79 02/09/14 2:16 PM

80 BACK ROADS NORTHERN AND CENTRAL ITALY
Bogliaco
Bogliaco
From the Lake to the Plains
Pai Pai
Vobarno
Vobarno Toscolano-
Toscolano-
Exploring Lake Garda reveals the fascinating multilayered history Maderno S. Zeno di
Maderno
S. Zeno di
of the region: the Romans enjoyed the natural spas on the lake’s II VITTORIALE Fasano Montagna
Montagna
Fasano
II VITTORIALE
Lumini
DEGLI ITALIANI
southern shore; the mighty Venetian Republic dominated the DEGLI ITALIANI TORRI DEL Castion Lumini
TORRI DEL
Castion
area during the 15th and 17th centuries; and the modern era of Tormini Volciano Gardone BENACOCO Veronese
Gardone
BENA
Volciano
Veronese
Riviera
Riviera
Tormini
Caprino
the 20th century dotted the lakeside with elegant belle époque SALÒ IsolaIsola Caprino
SALÒ
Veronese
Veronese
Portese
resorts. Inland, it was the bloody battle for Italian independence Portese del Gardadel Garda Costermano
Costermano
that marked the wine-growing hills around San Martino, while Puegnago S. Felice Garda Garda Gazzoli
S. Felice
Puegnago
Gazzoli
San Vigilio
del Benaco
del Garda
Mantua was a centre of Renaissance power, as revealed by its del Garda del Benaco San Vigilio Rivoli Veronese
Rivoli Veronese
Punta BelvederePunta Belvedere
rich art and architecture. This itinerary also showcases the Polpenazze AffiAffi
Polpenazze
BARDOLINO
different facets of this water-dependent region, from rice-covered del Garda Manerba BARDOLINO
del Garda
Manerba
Volar
del Garda
plains to olive-grove and vineyard-clad hills. The drive can also Soiano del Lago del Garda Lag o diLag o di Veronese Volargnegne
Cavaion
Cavaion
Soiano del Lago
Veronese
be linked with Drive 6 to Gargnano (see pp76–7) for a longer trip. Gar daGar da Cisano
Cisano
Moniga
Moniga S. AmbrogioS. Ambrogio
Calmasino
del Garda
del Garda Calmasino Sega Sega
Padenghe
Padenghe di Valpolicelladi Valpolicella
sul Garda LAZISE Ad ige Ad ige
sul Garda
LAZISE
Lido di
Lido di
SIRMIONE
Lonato
Lonato SIRMIONE Pastrengo
Pastrengo
PescantinaPescantina
Desenzano delDesenzano del Colà Colà
GardaGarda Bussolengo
Bussolengo
Colombare
Colombare
Pacengo
Pacengo Sandrà
Sandrà
Lonato Rivoltellaella S. Benedetto
Lonato
Rivolt
S. Benedetto
SAN MARTINO
SAN MARTINO Lugagnano
Lugagnano
Peschiera
DELLA BATTAGLIA
DELLA BATTAGLIA Peschiera Sona Sona
del Garda
del Garda
Castel Venzago
Castel Venzago
Ponti sul
Ponti sul
Mincio
Mincio
Pozzolengo
Vaccarolo Pozzolengo Oliosi Oliosi SommacampagnaSommacampagna
Vaccarolo
Redone
Redone
VeronaVerona
Monzambano
Monzambano
VENETO VillafrancaVillafranca
VENETO
Custoza
Custoza
CastellaroCastellaro Míncio
Solferino LaguselloLagusello
Solferino
Míncio
Villafranca
Villafranca
di Verona
di Verona
Cavriana
Cavriana VALEGGIOVALEGGIO Povegliano
Povegliano
SUL MINCIOSUL MINCIO Veronese
Veronese
Above Salò overlooked by the bell tower of its cathedral, see p82 Below Pretty
harbour front with fishing boats at the resort of Bardolino, see p83 LOMBARDIALOMBARDIA Quaderni
Quaderni
Volta Volta Grezzano
Grezzano
Mozzecane
Mantov
Guidizzolo
Guidizzolo Mantovanaana Pozzolo Mozzecane
Pozzolo
0 kilometres 6 Nogarde
Nogarde
ACTIVITIES 0 miles 6 Rocca Rocca
Pradelle
Cerlongo
Cerlongo Pradelle Tione
Tione
Enjoy an open-air concert at Il Vittoriale in summer
Roverbella
Bagnolo
Castiglione
Ceresara Roverbella Castiglione Bagnolo
Ceresara
Marengo
Mantorv
Swim in Lake Garda from the shingle beach just Góito Góito Marengo Mantorvanoano
south of Torri del Benaco
Santa Lucia
Santa Lucia
Immerse yourself in the thermal spa waters in
Simione for some welcome relaxation Sacca Sacca Míncio
Marmirolo
Marmirolo
Míncio
Villa Villa Castelbelforte
Castelbelforte
Climb the poignant memorial tower at San Martino Maiardina
Maiardina
della Battaglia Porto Porto
Mantov
Ródigo Soave Soave Mantovanoano
Ródigo
Fossamana
Sample fabulous local produce: oil and wine from Rivaltaalta Fossamana
Riv
Sul Míncio
Bardolino, and tortellini pasta from Valeggio sul Mincio Sul Míncio
LagoLago Cadè Cadè
Cycle among the picturesque rice fields – thankfully SuperioreSuperiore
quite flat – around Mantua Curtatoneone MANTOVA
Curtat
MANTOVA
(MANTUA)
(MANTUA)
Take a daytrip to Venice by boat from Mantua
080-081_Back_Roads_Northern_Italy.indd 80 21/09/17 11:17 am

DRIVE 7: From the Lake to the Plains 81
Bogliaco
Bogliaco
PLAN YOUR DRIVE
Pai Pai
Vobarno
Vobarno Toscolano- Start/finish: Salò to Mantua.
Toscolano-
Maderno KEY
Maderno
S. Zeno di
S. Zeno di
Montagna
Fasano Montagna Drive route Number of days: 3 days.
Fasano
II VITTORIALE Lumini
II VITTORIALE
Lumini
DEGLI ITALIANI TORRI DEL Distance: Approx 115 km (71 miles).
DEGLI ITALIANI
TORRI DEL
Castion
Gardone
BENA
Volciano
Volciano Gardone BENACOCO Castion
Veronese
Veronese
Riviera
Tormini Riviera Caprino
Tormini
Caprino
SALÒ
SALÒ IsolaIsola Veronese Road conditions: Lakeside roads get
Veronese
Portese del Gardadel Garda busy at weekends and in summer. The
Portese
Costermano outskirts of the towns are lined by
Costermano
S. Felice light industry but the roads are flat
S. Felice
Puegnago
Puegnago San Vigilio Garda Garda Gazzoli
Gazzoli
San Vigilio
del Benaco
del Garda
del Garda del Benaco Rivoli Veronese and well maintained.
Rivoli Veronese
Punta BelvederePunta Belvedere
Polpenazze AffiAffi When to go: Avoid the stifling
Polpenazze
BARDOLINO
del Garda BARDOLINO
del Garda
Manerba
Manerba summer heat on the plains by visiting
Volar
del Garda Lag o diLag o di Cavaion Volargnegne in autumn, when the menus are full of
del Garda
Cavaion
Soiano del Lago Veronese
Soiano del Lago
Veronese
Gar daGar da Cisano pumpkin and chestnut dishes; spring
Cisano
Moniga
Moniga S. AmbrogioS. Ambrogio is an attractive time, too. August sees
Calmasino
del Garda Calmasino Sega Sega
del Garda
Padenghe
Padenghe di Valpolicelladi Valpolicella the lake chock-a-bloc and the hotels
sul Garda LAZISE Ad ige Ad ige close between Nov and Easter.
sul Garda
LAZISE
Lido di
Lido di
SIRMIONE
Lonato
Lonato SIRMIONE Pastrengo Opening times: Shops tend to open
Pastrengo
PescantinaPescantina
Desenzano delDesenzano del Colà Colà 9am–1pm and 3–7pm Mon–Sat,
GardaGarda Bussolengo although in the small villages some
Bussolengo
Colombare
Colombare
Pacengo Sandrà will be closed on Monday morning.
Pacengo
Sandrà
Lonato Rivoltellaella S. Benedetto
Lonato
Rivolt
S. Benedetto
Main market days: Sirmione & Torri
SAN MARTINO Lugagnano del Benaco: Mon am; Lazise: Wed;
SAN MARTINO
Lugagnano
Peschiera
DELLA BATTAGLIA
DELLA BATTAGLIA Peschiera Sona Sona Bardolino & Mantua: Thu am; San
del Garda
del Garda
Castel Venzago
Castel Venzago Martino della Battaglia: Sat am;
Ponti sul
Ponti sul
Mincio
Mincio Valeggio sul Mincio: 4th Sun of the
Pozzolengo
Vaccarolo Pozzolengo Oliosi Oliosi SommacampagnaSommacampagna month (antiques and bric-à-brac).
Vaccarolo
Redone
Redone
VeronaVerona
Monzambano Shopping: Mantua has some small
Monzambano
VENETO VillafrancaVillafranca
VENETO
attractive boutiques and wonderful
Custoza
Custoza
CastellaroCastellaro Míncio delicatessens. Be sure to stock up on
Solferino
Solferino LaguselloLagusello
Míncio
Villafranca locally made olive oils and wines in
Villafranca
di Verona Bardolino and around the Moreniche
di Verona
Cavriana
Cavriana VALEGGIOVALEGGIO Povegliano hills to the south of Lake Garda.
Povegliano
SUL MINCIOSUL MINCIO Veronese
Veronese
Major festivals: Bardolino: Festa dell’
LOMBARDIALOMBARDIA Quaderni Uva (grape festival), Oct; Valeggio sul
Quaderni
Volta Volta Grezzano Mincio: Festa del Nodo dell’Amore
Grezzano
Mantov
Mozzecane
Guidizzolo Mantovanaana Pozzolo Mozzecane (love knot or tortellini festival), 3rd Tue
Guidizzolo
Pozzolo
Nogarde
Nogarde in Jun; Fiera di Valeggio (music and
Rocca Rocca
dance), 1st week in Jul.
Pradelle
Pradelle
Cerlongo
Cerlongo Tione
Tione
Roverbella DAY TRIP OPTIONS
Roverbella
Bagnolo
Ceresara
Castiglione
Ceresara Castiglione Bagnolo
Mantorv
Marengo
Góito Góito Marengo Mantorvanoano
Lake Garda has plenty for families,
Santa Lucia
Santa Lucia history buffs and activity addicts. Kids
will love the varied and macabre
exhibits at Il Vittoriale, followed by a
Sacca Sacca Míncio
Marmirolo
Marmirolo ferry ride, castle visit and a swim.
Míncio
Villa Villa Castelbelforte
Castelbelforte
Maiardina
Maiardina History buffs can start at Sirmione with
Porto Porto Roman and medieval remains, before
Mantov
Ródigo
Ródigo Soave Soave Mantovanoano climbing the memorial tower at San
Fossamana
Rivaltaalta Fossamana
Riv
Sul Míncio
Sul Míncio Martino and finishing in the gardens
of pasta-loving Valeggio sul Mincio.
LagoLago Cadè Cadè Mantua itself deserves a day: walk the
SuperioreSuperiore
Curtat
Curtatoneone MANTOVA Renaissance city, buy a picnic, then
MANTOVA
(MANTUA)
(MANTUA) explore the countryside on two
wheels. For full details, see p85.
080-081_Back_Roads_Northern_Italy.indd 81 21/09/17 11:17 am

82 BACK ROADS NORTHERN AND CENTRAL ITALY

VISITING SALÒ
1 Salò resort of Gardone. A controversial
Parking Brescia, Lombardia; 25087 figure, he was known for his affair
There are pay-and-display parking sites An attractive and historic town, Salò with the actress Eleanor Dusé and,
around town, although the multi-storey
car park on Via Brunati is the best bet. basks in its own sunny bay on the more famously, his fiery relationship
western shore of Lake Garda. For more with Mussolini, for whom he wrote
Tourist Information
Piazza Sant’Antonio 4, 25087; 030 374 than 400 years it was the capital of the the (meaningless) Fascist war cry “Eia,
87 45; www.rivieradeilimoni.it communities known as the Magnifica eia, eia! Alalà!” It is an egocentric place
Patria, which were under Venetian cluttered with the poet’s possessions,
VISITING TORRI DEL BENACO domination until the Republic’s fall in which range from a gilded tortoise
Parking 1797. The town briefly came to the fore to the prow of the boat Puglia, which
The main car park is immediately again during World War II when Hitler D’Annunzio commanded during
opposite the ferry point on the south and Mussolini made it the capital of World War I – and his own macabre
side of town. It is free out of season the Republic of Saló (see right). Fronting mausoleum. Concerts are performed
and pay and display at other times.
the handsome lakeside promenade, in the amphitheatre in summer.
Tourist Information Lungolago Zanardelli, is the porticoed ª Return to the main road and turn
Via Gardesana, 37010; 045 62 96 482;
www.tourism.verona.it 16th-century town hall, Palazzo della left onto Via Roma (SS45bis). Continue
Magnifica Patria, not far from the into Toscolano-Maderno and catch the
unfinished Renaissance Duomo. car ferry (traghetto), signed to the right.
WHERE TO STAY ª Follow Via Trento (SS45bis) NE out
of town through Gardone to a signed 3 Torri del Benaco
AROUND IL VITTORIALE left turn to Il Vittoriale and car park. Verona, Veneto; 37010
Hotel Villa Florida moderate The swallow-tail battlements of the
This hotel has small suites and 2 Il Vittoriale degli Italiani
apartments, plus gardens and a pool. Castello Scaligero guard the pretty
Corso Zanardelli 113, 25083; 0365 Brescia, Lombardia; 25083 little harbour at Torri del Benaco. The
21836; www.hotelvillaflorida.com; The extravagant home and gardens castle offers wonderful views from its
closed mid-Oct–Mar of the poet and nationalist hero towers and an engaging museum on
Hotel Bolsone expensive Gabriele d’Annunzio sprawl across olive cultivation and local fishing
This secluded 15th-century manor the hillside above the belle époque methods, as well as information about
house is set high above Lake Garda and
has six rooms. No children under 12.
Via Panoramica 23, 25083; 0365 21 022; Below left Café-lined harbour front at Lazise Below right San Severo church frescoes, Bardolino
www.dimorabolsone.it; closed Nov–Feb Bottom Grotte di Catullo, ruins of a 1st-century AD Roman settlement with lake views at Sirmione
TORRI DEL BENACO
Garnì Onda inexpensive
All rooms here have balconies or
terraces. A good breakfast is included.
Via per Albisano 28, 37010; 045 722
5895; www.garnionda.com; closed
mid-Nov–Mar
Hotel del Porto moderate
Located lakeside, this hotel offers stylish
rooms and even swisher bathrooms.
Self-catering suites are also available.
Lungolago Barbarani 6, 37010; 045 722
5051; www.hoteldelportolagodigarda.
it; closed Nov–Mar
SIRMIONE
Grifone moderate
Five-star lake views compensate for
the no-frills rooms at this friendly hotel.
Via Bocchio 4, 25019; 030 916 014;
www.sirmionehotelgrifone.it; closed
mid-Jan–mid-Mar
AROUND SAN MARTINO
DELLA BATTAGLIA
Selva Capuzza inexpensive
Selva Capuzza has a winery, self-catering
apartments and a good restaurant.
Agriturismo Borgo San Donino, 25015
Desenzano del Garda (just outside San
Martino della Battaglia); 030 991 0279;
www.selvacapuzza.it; closed mid Jan-
mid Feb




082-085_Back_Roads_Northern_Italy.indd 82 21/09/17 11:17 am

DRIVE 7: From the Lake to the Plains 83


prehistoric rock carvings in the woods
inland. It is also home to one of the
oldest limonaie, or lemon tree
glasshouses, on the lake. South of the
village’s network of quiet cobbled
lanes lies a pleasant shingle beach.
ª Take the main SS249 south to
Bardolino. Parking in the centre is easy.
4 Bardolino
Verona, Veneto; 37011
This pleasant resort has a medieval
warren of lanes and the frescoed
9th-century Romanesque Chiesa di
San Severo. Away from town, the soft Above left Cafés and shops close to Piazza
rolling hills of Cavaion Veronese are 6 Sirmione Vittoria, Salo’s main square Above Lake view
carpeted with vineyards and olive Brescia, Lombardia; 25019 from Il Vittoriale
groves. The tourist office lists routes This historic town on a promontory
to oil and wine producers, and the jutting into the waters of Lake Garda EAT AND DRINK
Museo del Vino (closed Nov–mid-Mar) is guarded by a mighty 13th-century SALÒ
gives an insight into the history of castle, the Rocca Scaligera (closed Ristorante 100km expensive
these key local industries. Plus, the end Mon). The café-lined lanes lead north The contemporary restaurant in Hotel
products can always be sampled at the to the ruins of a 1st-century Roman Bellerive serves locally sourced creations.
resort’s many enoteche and restaurants. villa, the Grotte di Catullo (closed Via Pietro da Salò 11, 25087; 0365 520
ª Take SP31 (Via Croce) out through Mon), set among olive trees on the 410; www.hotelbellerive.it; closed
Nov–mid-Mar
the vineyards, turn right on Strada lake’s edge. Visitors since Roman
Villa. Carry straight onto Strada Tre times have been drawn by the spa TORRI DEL BENACO
Contrè, turn right on SP31, through waters (tourist office has details). Trattoria Bell’Arrivo moderate
Calmasino, follow signs left to Lazise. ª Follow signs south for Brescia, By the little harbour, this trattoria is a
Turn left for pay-and-display car parks. then follow signs to SP13 to Milan. cosy spot for tasty, good-value food.
Piazza Calderini 10, 37010; 045 629 9028;
The tower is just beyond the village. closed Mon (Mar–May & Oct) & Nov–Feb
5 Lazise
Verona, Veneto; 37017 7 San Martino della Battaglia SIRMIONE
A popular tourist town, Lazise’s Brescia, Lombardia; 25010 La Rucola expensive
ancient centre is enclosed within A long spiral ramp leads up to the Enjoy the fish in this smart restaurant
near the castle. Ideal for a treat.
beautiful medieval walls. Next to panoramic terrace at the top of this Passaggio Strentelle 7, 25019; 345 619
the small port stands the Dogana frescoed tower (closed Mon), built in 5728; www.ristorantelarucola.it; closed
Veneta, the customs house used memory of those who died fighting Jan & Feb, Thu & Fri
to tax goods on the lake during during the Risorgimento, the move- SAN MARTINO DELLA BATTAGLIA
Venice’s 400 years of rule. Next door, ment for Italian unification. In 1859, Osteria alla Torre moderate
the small Romanesque church of San during the wars of independence This friendly place offers old-fashioned
Nicolò holds 13th-century frescoes. from Austria, these hills saw some of cooking – try the home-made pasta.
ª Take SR249 south to Peschiera del the bloodiest battles in history. On Via Torre 1, 25015 ; 030 910 8261;
Garda. Drive through the town centre, 24 June, during the Battle of Solferino, www.osteriaallatorre.it; closed Thu
following signs to SR11 and Sirmione. 40,000 men were killed or injured in
Park outside the walled town. one day. A Swiss businessman, Henry Below Colourful boats moored at Torri del
Dunant wit nessed the carnage and Benaco on Lake Garda
Mussolini’s Republic of Salò saw the local people helping the
In November 1943, Mussolini and wounded, regard less of nationality.
Hitler made a last-ditch attempt to His suggestion of creating a neutral
rally Fascist Italy against advancing hospital corps to help during wartime
Allied troops by establishing the led to the founding of the Red Cross
Italian Social Republic of Salò. Villas in 1863. There is also an ossuary and a
and palaces on Lake Garda became
ministries, while Mussolini and his museum here, display ing love letters,
family lived in Gargnano. The bloodied uniforms and tattered flags.
Republic limped on ineffectually ª Follow SP13 to Pozzolengo, then
until Italian liberation on 25 April SP18 towards Monzambano. Turn left
1945; three days later Mussolini onto SP74 (Strada Moscatello), then right
was executed by partisans on onto SP19 (towards Volta Mantovana).
Lake Como.
Turn left onto SP3 to Vallegio sul Mincio.
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€45; expensive, over €45


082-085_Back_Roads_Northern_Italy.indd 83 21/09/17 11:17 am

84 BACK ROADS NORTHERN AND CENTRAL ITALY

VISITING MANTUA
8 Valeggio sul Mincio Parco Giardino Sigurtà are perfect
Tourist Information Verona, Veneto; 37067 for stretching your legs. Highlights
Piazza Andrea Mantegna 6, 46100; On the western border of the Venetian include the tulips and irises in spring
0376 432 432; www.turismo.mantova.it
empire, this sleepy town played a and the water lilies in summer.
Bike and Boat Hire strategic role supported by its impos- ª Follow SS249 to Roverbella. From
To hire a bike for a day, register with a ing 14th-century Castello Scaligero. the centre follow signs to Santa Lucia.
passport and leave a deposit at Casa del
Rigoletto (Piazza Sordello 23). Longer- In pretty riverside Borghetto the Pass the left turn to Santa Lucia and
term bike hire is available at Mantua Ponte Visconteo, built by the Dukes turn right onto road to Mantua. Over­
Bike (Viale Piave 22b; 0376 220 909; of Milan in 1393, protected the edge look signs to the centre, follow signs to
www.mantuabike.it). Many hotels also of their territory. These days, Valeggio is Padova, taking the “tangenziale nord”
have cycles for guests.
more famous for tortellini, served in round to the SS10. Cross the bridge,
Lake and river cruises range from an family-run restaurants all over town. head towards the Castello, turn right at
hour’s round trip to a day cruise to Close to the centre, the woodland, the mini round about to the free park­
Venice. Contact the tourist office.
lawns and ornamental gardens of ing along the town wall on Via Mincio.
WHERE TO STAY
VALEGGIO SUL MINCIO 9 Mantua (Mantova)
La Finestra Sul Fiume B&B moderate Mantua, Lombardia; 46100
This converted mill in an idyllic riverside Rising out of the rice fields around the River Mincio, Mantua (Mantova)
location offers attractive suites and a is ringed on three sides by lakes awash with lily flowers in season. It’s
spacious garden. Cycles can be hired
nearby. Corte Sega 2, 37067; 045 795 impossibly romantic, with cobbled lanes linking the piazzas, a clutch
0556; www.lafinestrasulfiume.it of Renaissance masterpieces of art and architecture and a comfortable,
MANTOVA AND AROUND relaxed pace of life. In autumn, all the city’s restaurants feature ravioli
Consorzio Agrituristico Mantovano alla zucca (pumpkin stuffed ravioli) with sage butter.
This co-operative coordinates many
farmstay and B&B options across the A two-hour walking tour
fertile surrounding countryside. di San Giorgio, churches, courtyards,
www.agriturismomantova.it Follow the city wall east from the car gardens and the Palazzo del
parks to Via San Giorgio, next to the Capitano and Magna Domus. Once
Ostello del Mincio inexpensive
In Rivalta sul Mincio, 10 km (6 miles) castle, which leads into Piazza Sordello home to the ruling Gonzaga dynasty
west of town, this well-run YHA hostel 1. The thin square is dominated on (1328–1707), the palace is a labyrinth
offers doubles, family rooms and dorm, its eastern side by the sprawling of frescoed and mirrored rooms, the
plus bike and canoe hire. Palazzo Ducale 2 (closed Mon). The highlight being the Camera degli Sposi
Via Porto 23-25, 46040; 340 9300509; largest palace in medieval Europe, it (the Married Couple’s room) with
www.ostellodelmincio.it
incorporates the 14th-century Castello frescoes by Andrea Mantegna (1474).
Casa Poli moderate
This minimalist boutique hotel with
small but comfortable contemporary TRENTO VIALE MINCIO
VIA
rooms is located a 10-minute walk VI A PO R TO
from the city’s central squares. VIA SAN
Corso Garibaldi 32, 46100; 0376 288 VIA CAVOUR Duomo GI ORGIO
Piazza
170; www.hotelcasapoli.it PIAZZA Sordello Palazzo Ducale
BROLETTO
Residenza Ca’ delle Erbe moderate SS420 Sant’Andrea Palazzo del Podestà
Stay in airy rooms in a palace MANTEGNA VIA
PIAZZA
overlooking the square. A great mix ACCADEMIA LUNGOLAGO DEL GONZAGA
Piazza
of classic and contemporary styles. V I A VIT TOR I O E MA NU E LE PIAZZA delle Erbe
Via Broletto 24, 46100; 0376 226 161; VIA ROMA GUGLIELMO Teatro
www.cadelleerbe.it MARCONI Bibiena
Fish Market
Below Fresco showing the Titans attacking VIA PRINCIPE
AMADEO
Olympus, in the Palazzo Te, Mantua V I A L E P I AV E V I A C O N CILIAZ I O N E V I A GI O VA N N I C H IASS I VIA GIUSEPPE MAZZINI
VIA GI OSUÈ CARDUCCÌ
VIA GIOVANNIC vVIA FRA T TINI
PIAZZA ACERBI VIA NAZARIO C O R S O G I U S E P P E GA R I B A L D I
ANTONIO Casa del SAURO V I A G I U L I O R O M A N O
GRAMSCI Mantegna
Tempio di
San Sebastiano
0 metres 500
V I A L E R I S O R G I M E N T O
Palazzo Te V I A L E I S O N Z O 0 yards 500
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €100; moderate, €100–€200; expensive, over €200
082-085_Back_Roads_Northern_Italy.indd 84 21/09/17 12:45 pm

DRIVE 7: From the Lake to the Plains 85














Above left Parco Giardino Sigurtà, Valeggio
Across the square, the Duomo 3 Round the corner, Piazza Mantegna sul Mincio Above Shady cafés and arcades in
has an 18th-century façade and its holds more cafés and Mantua’s most Mantua’s Piazza delle Erbe
interior was reconstructed from the important church, Sant’Andrea 7,
Gothic original by Giulio Romano in begun in 1472 by Leon Battista Alberti.
1545. Leave the piazza through the Home to Andrea Mantegna’s tomb,
southern arch with the red-brick the barrel-vaulted interior houses two EAT AND DRINK
Torre Della Gabbia on the right, vases said to hold the blood of Christ.
where people were punished by Head south along Via Roma and MANTUA AND AROUND
being hung in a cage and left to die. across Piazza Marconi to the canal La Loggetta inexpensive
In Piazza Broletto, the façade of the where, on the left, a small covered The fantastic ice-cream served here
comes in a variety of flavours to reflect
13th-century Palazzo del Podestà 4 bridge is part of the Fish Market 8 the seasons. It also serves vegan ice-
has a statue of local Roman poet Virgil. built in 1536 by Giulio Romano. Fork cream, milkshakes and granite.
Duck left down Via Accademia to left down Via Principe Amadeo, into Piazza Broletto 12, 46100; 0376
look into the 18th-century Teatro Via Acerbi, where the temple-like Casa 181 2866
Scientifico Bibiena 5 (mid-Nov–mid- del Mantegna 9 was lived in briefly Due Cavallini moderate
Mar: closed Mon; visit tourist office for by the artist and now holds exhibitions. Good-value traditional cooking served
concert details). Opened with a recital Across the road, the deconsecrated by welcoming staff in a rustic dining
room or walled summer garden. The
by Mozart in 1770, the theatre still Tempio di San Sebastiano 0, built by ravioli alla zucca is highly recommended.
performs work by Monteverdi, the Alberti in 1458, is now a monument to Via Salnitro 5, 46100; 0376 322 084;
Mantovan father of opera, and puts Mantovans fallen in war. www.trattoriaduecavallini.mantova.it;
on productions of Verdi’s opera Cross busy Viale Risorgimento to closed mid-Jul–mid-Aug & Tue
Rigoletto, which is set in the city. perhaps the city’s greatest treasure, Dal Pescatore expensive
Return to the covered arcade on the Palazzo Te q (closed Mon am), an Set in a country house, a 40-minute
Piazza Broletto and head left past island retreat for Federico Gonzaga and drive from Mantua, this family-run
elegant shops into Piazza delle his mistress Isabella, designed by Giulio restaurant – with three Michelin stars –
serves unforgettable, innovative meals
Erbe 6 and the 13th-century Romano and completed in 1535. The in an elegantly relaxed atmosphere.
Palazzo della Ragione. The square palace is a world of frescoes with a Località Runate 15, Canneto sull’Oglio,
is dominated by the Torre peaceful lawned garden. The Sala di 46013; 0376 723 001; www.dal
dell’Orologio with its astronomical Amore e Psiche is awash with erotic pescatore.com; closed Mon & Tue
clock dating from 1472. Visit frescoes while the Sala dei Giganti, Il Cigno dei Martini expensive
Mantua’s oldest church, the pretty with its paintings of falling columns, In an elegant dining room overlooking
11th-century Rotonda di San appears to be collapsing around you. a beautiful garden, well-judged cooking
is matched by impeccable service.
Lorenzo, discovered in 1908 during Head back in a straight line northeast Piazza d’Arco 1, 46100; 0376 327 101;
the dismantling of the Jewish ghetto on either Via Giovannic Acerbi or Via www.ristoranteilcignodeimartini.com;
that had grown around it. Nazario Sauro to the car park. closed Aug, Mon & Tue
DAY TRIP OPTIONS Follow driving instructions to Il Vittoriale Follow driving instructions from Sirmione
Visitors are spoilt for choice when it and Torri del Benaco, and then back. to San Martino and Valeggio, then return.
comes to days out near Lake Garda.
War and peace Town and country
Family day Visit the Roman remains at Sirmione Spend the morning exploring the
Based in Salò 1, tour Il Vittoriale 2, 6, then drive to San Martino della majestic architecture of Mantua 9 –
then cruise across the lake on the car Battaglia 7 to climb the tower, a the Castello, palazzos and piazzas. Buy
ferry to Torri del Benaco 3, where memorial to the war dead. Head to a picnic, then take the cycle path or a
you can eat well, explore the village, Valeggio sul Mincio 8, home of boat (visit the tourist office for routes).
play “King of the Castle” and have a tortellini pasta and also the peaceful There are canals, rivers and pretty
dip from the village beach. green spaces of Parco Giardino Sigurtà. countryside to admire.

Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€45; expensive, over €45


082-085_Back_Roads_Northern_Italy.indd 85 21/09/17 11:17 am

086-087_Back_Roads_Northern_Italy.indd 86 21/09/17 11:19 am
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DRIVE 8





Milan
Turin Venice
IT AL Y
Genoa Bologna
Florence
Perugia
Rome



The Hidden

Valleys of the

Alto Adige


Merano to

Brunico





Highlights

• Alpine hospitality, designer spas
Enjoy cosy alpine bars, hearty food
and top-quality Alto Adige wines at
traditional mountain inns; then, sweat
it out in luxury at chic spa retreats
• Churches, abbeys and castles
Enjoy wine tasting at Novacella
Abbey; stroll among the frescoed
Gothic cloisters of Bressanone
cathedral; and admire the well-
preserved bastion of Castel Tirolo
• High-altitude challenge
Drive over the Passo di Monte Giovo
(Jaufenpass) – the most northerly
road pass in Italy – with stunning
vistas of jagged mountains covered
with a dusting of snow

The road “over the roof of Italy”, the SS44,
with outstanding Alpine views




086-087_Back_Roads_Northern_Italy.indd 87 21/09/17 11:19 am

88 BACK ROADS NORTHERN AND CENTRAL ITALY

The Hidden Valleys of the Alto Adige

A cheerful “Grüss Gott” rather than “ciao” is the greeting visitors will hear on
this tour through Italy’s South Tyrol. This fascinating borderland, passed back
and forth between ruling powers down the years, is proud of its Germanic
roots. The drive begins in the spa town of Merano – or Meran – and wends
its way through secluded valleys where the traditional Alpine way of life
continues much as it has for centuries: cattle and sheep are led up to high
pasture in summer, cheese is made in huts on the mountainside, and sweet
hay is still cut by hand. After crossing the Monte Giovo/Jaufen pass, the
route drops down to the Isarco (Eisacktal) valley for the Baroque splendours
of the Abbazia di Novacella (Neustift) and the cathedral town of Bressanone.
ACTIVITIES
0 kilometres 8
Soak in outdoor thermal pools and sunbathe below
mountain peaks in Merano’s state-of-the-art spa 0 miles 8
Take a cable car to the 12th-century church of San
Vigilio in a quiet mountain-top location above Merano
Vipit Vipitenoeno
Go for a hike in the Parco Nazionale dello Stelvio near (Ster (Sterzing)zing) Campo di Trens
Campo di Trens
the Val d’Ultimo, or walk the high-altitude Adolf (Mareit) (Freienfeld)
Mareta
Mareta
(Freienfeld)
(Mareit)
Munkel footpath in the Val di Funes
Calice
Calice
Flading
Flading
Ritzeil
(Kalch)
Learn how to smelt copper at a re-created Neolithic (Kalch) Vallsarco Ritzeil
village near the Val Senales glacier M.Altacroce PASSO DI MONTE Valles (Vals)
Valles (Vals)
M.Altacroce
PASSO DI MONTE
Vallsarco
MMM RIPA AT
Maranza
(H. Kreuzspitze) GIOVO ( Maranza MMM RIPA AT
(H. Kreuzspitze)
GIOVO (JAUFENPASS)JAUFENPASS)
2743m
Mezzaselva (Meransen)
Shop for art and speciality foods in Bressanone’s 2743m Passo. di Pennes Mezzaselva (Meransen) BRUNICO
BRUNICO
(Mittewald)
(Mittewald)
Passo. di Pennes
(BRUNECK)
(Penser Paß) 2215m
medieval arcades (Penser Paß) 2215m Rio di Pusteria (BRUNECK)
Rio di Pusteria
MUSEUM PASSEIER (Mühlbach)
MUSEUM PASSEIER
(Mühlbach)
S. Leonardo i. P. Corno Bianco
S. Leonardo i. P. Corno Bianco
S. Lorenzo di S.
(Weißhorn)
Breathe in the smell of freshly cut hay on walks (St. Leonhard i. P.) (Weißhorn) (Aicha) Aica Rodengo S. Lorenzo di S.
(St. Leonhard i. P.)
Aica
2705m
2705m
Rodengo
(St. Lorenzen)
(St. Lorenzen)
(Aicha)
Corno di Tramin
S. Martino i. P.
through velvety Alpine pastures S. Martino i. P. Pennes (Pens) Corno di Tramin (Rodeneck) Mantana Riscone
Pennes (Pens)
Riscone
Mantana
(Tagewaldhorn)
(St. Martin i. P.) TRENTINO Talvera (Tagewaldhorn) Sciaves (Schabs) L ü s n e r A l p e (Reischach)
Talvera
(St. Martin i. P.)
(Reischach)
2708m
2708m
(Monthal)
(Monthal)
Sciaves (Schabs)
TRENTINO
Cima S. Giacomo
Riobianco
Luson
(Jakobsspitze)
(Jakobsspitze)
(Weißenbach)
(Weißenbach)
La Cla Passirio Passirio AL ALTO ADIGETO ADIGE Riobianco Cima S. Giacomo Scaleres Luson Plan de Corones
Plan de Corones
La Clavava
(Lüsen)
(Lüsen)
2741m
2741m
Scaleres
(Rodeneck) L ü s n e r A l p e
(Kolbenspitz ABBAZIA DI (Kronplatz)
(Kolbenspitze)e)
ABBAZIA DI
(Kronplatz)
(Schalders)
Valdurna
Longega
2273m
2868m Valdurna (Schalders) Longega 2273m
2868m
Varna NOVACELLA (NEUSTIFT)
(Durnholz)
Punta Cervina (Durnholz) Varna NOVACELLA (NEUSTIFT) (Zwischenwasser)
(Zwischenwasser)
Punta Cervina
(Hirzerspitze)
Vernago (Vernagt) (Hirzerspitze) (Vahrn) Rina Rina
Vernago (Vernagt)
(Vahrn)
S.Vigilio di M.
2781m
L. di L. di VernagoVernago Giogáia di Tessa Saltusio (Saltaus) 2781m S.Vigilio di M.
Saltusio (Saltaus)
A l p i S a r e n t i n e
(St. Vigil)
Cima TessaTessa
Giogáia di Tessa
(Stausee Vernagt)Vernagt)
(Stausee Cima A l p i S a r e n t i n e Cima S. Cassiano BRESSANONE (BRIXEN) (St. Vigil)
BRESSANONE (BRIXEN)
( S a r n t a l e r A l p e n ) Cima S. Cassiano
(Tex (Texelspitze)elspitze) Càines
Càines
Antermoia
(Kassianspitze)
Archeoparc Schnalserb. 3318m (Kuens) Verdins ( S a r n t a l e r A l p e n ) (Kassianspitze) S. Andrea Antermoia
3318m
S. Andrea
(Kuens)
Verdins
2581m
Plancios
Certosa (Karthaus)
S. Martino
CASTEL TIROLO
Certosa (Karthaus) CASTEL TIROLO S. Martino 2581m (St. Andrä) Plancios S. Martino i. B.
Archeoparc Schnalserb.
S. Martino i. B.
(St. Andrä)
(Palmschoß)
(Reinswald)
Velturno
(St. Martin i. T.)
(SCHLOSS TIROL)
(SCHLOSS TIROL) Scena (Reinswald) Velturno (Palmschoß) (St. Martin i. T.)
Scena
(Feldthurns)
Sta. Caterina Parcines (Schenna) (Feldthurns) Albes Albes PASSO DELL’ERBE
PASSO DELL’ERBE
Parcines
Sta. Caterina
(Schenna)
(Katharinaberg) (Partschins) Lazfons (Albeins) (WÜRZJOCH)
(Katharinaberg) (Partschins)
(WÜRZJOCH)
Lazfons
(Albeins)
Funes
(Latzfons)
MERANO (MERAN) (Latzfons) Funes
MERANO (MERAN)
Mar Marlengolengo Chiusa (Villnöss)
(Villnöss)
Chiusa
Peitlerkofel
(Mar (Marling)ling) (Klausen) Peitlerkofel
(Klausen)
VAL DI FUNES (VILLNÖSS)
Avalengo
Plaus Plaus Avalengo VAL DI FUNES (VILLNÖSS) Santa Santa 2874m
2874m
VAL SENALES (SCHNALSTAL)
VAL SENALES (SCHNALSTAL)
(Hafling)
Naturnono
Natur (Hafling)
Maddalena
Castelbello
Castelbello Tablà Tablà Villandro Maddalena
Villandro
(Kastelbell)
(Kastelbell) (Tabland) (Na (Naturns)turns) (Villanders) Furchetta Padraces
(Villanders)
Furchetta
(Tabland)
Padraces
SAN VIGILIO (VIGILJOCH)(VIGILJOCH)
SAN VIGILIO Postal 3028m
Postal
3028m
V i n s c h g a u
Guardia AltaV i n s c h g a u Lana Lana (Burgstall)
(Burgstall)
Laces (Latsch)tsch)
Laces (La Guardia Alta
Gargazzone
Foiana
(Hochw Foiana Adige (Etsch) Adige (Etsch) Gargazzone
(Hochwart)art)
(Gargazon)
(Gargazon)
2608m S. Pancrazio
(Völlan)
2608m S. Pancrazio (Völlan)
(St. P (St. Pankraz)ankraz)
Plazz Plazzólesóles
Tesimo
(Platz (Platzers)ers) Tesimo
Valsura Valsura Bag Bagni di Mezzoni di Mezzo (Tisens)
(Tisens)
VAL D’ULTIMO (ULTENTAL)’ULTIMO (ULTENTAL)
VAL D (Mitt (Mitterbad)erbad)
Lago di Zóccolo
Lago di Zóccolo
S. N S. Nicolòicolò (Zoggler Stausee)
(Zoggler Stausee)
(St. N (St. Nikolaus)ikolaus)
St G St Gertraudertraud
Parc Parco Nazionaleo Nazionale
dello St
dello Stelvioelvio
088-089_Back_Roads_Northern_Italy.indd 88 21/09/17 11:19 am
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DRIVE 8: The Hidden Valleys of the Alto Adige 89

PLAN YOUR DRIVE

Start/finish: Merano to MMM Ripa
at Brunico.
Number of days: 3, allowing half a
day to explore Bressanone, and a visit
to the thermal baths in Merano.
Distance: 290 km (180 miles).
Road conditions: The roads are well
paved and well signposted. Mountain
routes can be slow. The road to Monte
Giovo is steep, with many switchback
bends. Late snow may keep the Passo
dell’Erbe/Wurzjoch closed into July.
Above Vine terraces near the Abbazia di Novacella, see p92 Below left The Art Nouveau Kurhaus, When to go: Late Jun–late Sep is
Merano, see p90 Below right Pretty houses in the spa resort of Merano, see p90 best, when the mountain passes and
refuges are open, the summer hiking
season is in full swing and cable cars
are running. For tourist information,
Vipit Vipitenoeno KEY visit www.suedtirol.info.
(Ster (Sterzing)zing)
Campo di Trens
Campo di Trens Drive route Main market days: Merano: Tue & Fri;
Mareta
Mareta (Freienfeld)
(Freienfeld)
(Mareit)
(Mareit) Bressanone: Mon & Sat morning;
Brunico: Wed.
Calice
Calice
Flading
Flading (Kalch) Ritzeil
Ritzeil
(Kalch)
Shopping: Look for mountain
Valles (Vals)
M.Altacroce
PASSO DI MONTE
M.Altacroce PASSO DI MONTE Valles (Vals)
Vallsarco
Vallsarco
Maranza
MMM RIPA AT
(H. Kreuzspitze) Maranza MMM RIPA AT cheeses and chutneys, speck (smoked
(H. Kreuzspitze)
GIOVO (JAUFENPASS)JAUFENPASS)
2743m GIOVO ( Mezzaselva (Meransen) BRUNICO ham), jams and preserves made from
2743m
Mezzaselva (Meransen)
BRUNICO
(Mittewald)
Passo. di Pennes
Passo. di Pennes (Mittewald)
(BRUNECK)
(Penser Paß) 2215m Rio di Pusteria (BRUNECK) mirtillo berries, and quality Alto Adige
(Penser Paß) 2215m
Rio di Pusteria
MUSEUM PASSEIER (Mühlbach)
MUSEUM PASSEIER
(Mühlbach)
S. Leonardo i. P. Corno Bianco
S. Leonardo i. P. Corno Bianco wines. Interesting mountain products
(Weißhorn)
S. Lorenzo di S.
(St. Leonhard i. P.) (Weißhorn) Aica Aica S. Lorenzo di S.
(St. Leonhard i. P.)
2705m
Rodengo
2705m Rodengo (St. Lorenzen) include loden (traditional jackets and
(St. Lorenzen)
(Aicha)
S. Martino i. P.
Corno di Tramin
S. Martino i. P. Pennes (Pens) Corno di Tramin (Aicha) (Rodeneck) Riscone
Pennes (Pens)
Riscone
Mantana
Mantana
(Tagewaldhorn)
Talvera
(St. Martin i. P.)
(St. Martin i. P.) TRENTINO Talvera (Tagewaldhorn) Sciaves (Schabs) L ü s n e r A l p e (Reischach) hats made from wool felt) and crib
(Reischach)
2708m
2708m
(Monthal)
(Monthal)
figures from Bressanone.
Sciaves (Schabs)
TRENTINO
Cima S. Giacomo
Riobianco
Luson
(Jakobsspitze)
(Jakobsspitze)
(Weißenbach)
(Weißenbach)
La Clavava
Plan de Corones
La Cla Passirio Passirio AL ALTO ADIGETO ADIGE Riobianco Cima S. Giacomo Scaleres Luson Plan de Corones
(Lüsen)
(Lüsen)
Scaleres
2741m
2741m
(Rodeneck) L ü s n e r A l p e
ABBAZIA DI
(Kolbenspitze)e)
(Kronplatz)
(Kolbenspitz ABBAZIA DI (Kronplatz) Major festivals: Throughout the
(Schalders)
Valdurna
Longega
2868m Valdurna (Schalders) Longega 2273m
2273m
2868m
Varna NOVACELLA (NEUSTIFT)
(Zwischenwasser)
(Durnholz)
Punta Cervina
Punta Cervina (Durnholz) Varna NOVACELLA (NEUSTIFT) (Zwischenwasser) region: Törggelen (see p94) mid-Sep–
Vernago (Vernagt)
(Hirzerspitze)
Vernago (Vernagt) (Hirzerspitze) (Vahrn) Rina Rina Nov; Merano: Easter horse races; Wine
(Vahrn)
S.Vigilio di M.
2781m
A l p i S a r e n t i n e
Saltusio (Saltaus)
L. di L. di VernagoVernago Giogáia di Tessa Saltusio (Saltaus) 2781m S.Vigilio di M.
(St. Vigil)
Cima TessaTessa
Giogáia di Tessa
(Stausee Vernagt)Vernagt)
(Stausee Cima A l p i S a r e n t i n e Cima S. Cassiano BRESSANONE (BRIXEN) (St. Vigil) and food festival, Nov; Bressanone:
BRESSANONE (BRIXEN)
( S a r n t a l e r A l p e n ) Cima S. Cassiano
(Tex (Texelspitze)elspitze) Càines
Càines
Antermoia
(Kassianspitze)
Archeoparc Schnalserb. 3318m (Kuens) Verdins ( S a r n t a l e r A l p e n ) (Kassianspitze) S. Andrea Antermoia “Treffpunkt” wine festival, end Jul;
3318m
S. Andrea
(Kuens)
Verdins
2581m
Plancios
S. Martino
Certosa (Karthaus)
Archeoparc Schnalserb.
S. Martino i. B.
CASTEL TIROLO
Certosa (Karthaus) CASTEL TIROLO S. Martino 2581m (St. Andrä) Plancios S. Martino i. B. “Musik und Kirche” (classical music in
(St. Andrä)
(Palmschoß)
(Reinswald)
Velturno
(St. Martin i. T.)
(SCHLOSS TIROL)
(SCHLOSS TIROL) Scena (Reinswald) Velturno (Palmschoß) (St. Martin i. T.) churches), mid-Jul–mid-Sep; bread
Scena
(Feldthurns)
PASSO DELL’ERBE
Sta. Caterina Parcines (Schenna) (Feldthurns) Albes Albes PASSO DELL’ERBE
Sta. Caterina
Parcines
(Schenna)
(Katharinaberg) (Partschins) Lazfons (Albeins) (WÜRZJOCH) and strüdel market, Oct; International
(Katharinaberg) (Partschins)
Lazfons
(WÜRZJOCH)
(Albeins)
Funes
(Latzfons)
MERANO (MERAN)
MERANO (MERAN) (Latzfons) Funes Mountain Summit, late Oct–early Nov;
Mar Marlengolengo Chiusa (Villnöss)
(Villnöss)
Chiusa
Peitlerkofel
(Mar (Marling)ling) (Klausen) Peitlerkofel Bressanone & Brunico: Christmas
(Klausen)
VAL DI FUNES (VILLNÖSS)
Avalengo
Plaus Plaus Avalengo VAL DI FUNES (VILLNÖSS) Santa Santa 2874m
2874m
VAL SENALES (SCHNALSTAL)
VAL SENALES (SCHNALSTAL)
(Hafling)
Naturnono
Natur (Hafling) markets, late Nov–early Jan; Val di
Maddalena
Castelbello Tablà Tablà Villandro Maddalena
Castelbello
Villandro
(Kastelbell) (Tabland) (Na (Naturns)turns) (Villanders) Furchetta Padraces Funes: Speck festival in Oct.
(Kastelbell)
(Villanders)
(Tabland)
Furchetta
Padraces
SAN VIGILIO Postal 3028m
SAN VIGILIO (VIGILJOCH)(VIGILJOCH)
Postal
3028m
Guardia AltaV i n s c h g a u Lana Lana (Burgstall) DAY TRIP OPTIONS
(Burgstall)
V i n s c h g a u
Laces (La Guardia Alta
Laces (Latsch)tsch)
Gargazzone
(Hochwart)art)
(Hochw Foiana Adige (Etsch) Adige (Etsch) Gargazzone
Foiana
(Gargazon)
(Gargazon)
2608m S. Pancrazio
2608m S. Pancrazio (Völlan) The drive can be broken up into day
(Völlan)
(St. P (St. Pankraz)ankraz)
Plazz Plazzólesóles trips. Families can see the castle at
Tesimo
(Platz (Platzers)ers) Tesimo Tirolo, then try living like a Copper
Valsura Valsura Bag Bagni di Mezzoni di Mezzo (Tisens) Age man at the Archeoparc in Val
(Tisens)
VAL D’ULTIMO (ULTENTAL)’ULTIMO (ULTENTAL)
VAL D (Mitt (Mitterbad)erbad) Senales. Adults might prefer a Tyrolean
Lago di Zóccolo
Lago di Zóccolo history museum, a drive over a moun­
S. N S. Nicolòicolò (Zoggler Stausee)
(Zoggler Stausee)
(St. N (St. Nikolaus)ikolaus) tain pass, then a soak in a spa.
Alternatively, stock up on an Alpine
St G St Gertraudertraud picnic, hike on a high­altitude trail,
Parc Parco Nazionaleo Nazionale then explore a museum about moun­
dello St
dello Stelvioelvio
tain survival. For full details, see p95.
088-089_Back_Roads_Northern_Italy.indd 89 21/09/17 11:19 am

90 BACK ROADS NORTHERN AND CENTRAL ITALY


Right Fresco of St Christopher on the exterior
of Merano’s Duomo Right centre The Church
of San Vigilio, in a beautiful mountain setting
Far Right The quaint village of Unser Frau
in the Val Senales Below View of Merano,
beside the Passer river
WHERE TO STAY
MERANO (MERAN)
Terme Merano expensive
Stunning town-centre hotel designed
by Matteo Thun with restful interiors.
Rooms are spacious, with balconies.
Piazza Terme 1, 39012; 0473 259 259;
www.hoteltermemerano.com 1 Merano (Meran) ª Return to Lana. Follow the brown
Vigilius Mountain Resort expensive Alto Adige; 39012 road signs for Val d’Ultimo (Ultental).
This luxury eco-spa, reachable only by Tourists started flocking to Merano Pass through San Pancrazio (Sankt
cable car (15 mins from Lana), is a at the end of the 19th century, after Pankraz) to San Nicolò (Sankt Nikolaus)
wonderfully relaxing place to stay.
There’s a fabulous quartzite-lined pool. Empress Elizabeth of Austria – known and the Lahnersäge Visitor Centre.
Monte San Vigilio (Vigiljoch), 39011 as Sissi – chose the town for her winter
Lana; 0473 556 600; www.vigilius.it cure, and a resort of pastel-coloured 3 Val d’Ultimo (Ultental)
Art Nouveau palaces and riverside Alto Adige; 39016
VAL D’ULTIMO (ULTENTAL) promenades evolved. Sissi stayed at The first part of the valley is the most
Arosea Life Balance expensive Trauttmansdorff castle, now home dramatic, climbing steeply through
This modern hotel offers understated
luxury and sunny terraces. Some suites to interesting botanical gardens orchards and vineyards, past signs for
have outdoor saunas and showers. (open daily). Take time to enjoy the waalwegs (the ancient irrigation
Kuppelwies am See 355, 39016 St town’s landmark thermal baths (open channels that make farming possible
Walburg; 0473 785 051; www.arosea.it daily), designed by architect Matteo on the sunny, south-facing hillsides).
Other options inexpensive Thun, which opened in 2005. They The valley opens out into lush pastures
For farmhouse B&Bs offering spotless offer thermal pools, and treatments dotted with traditional chalets topped
rooms, breakfasts from locally grown using mud, chestnuts and apples. by wooden roof shingles weighted
products, and often a pool and free
Wi-Fi, visit www.redrooster.it ª From the centre, follow signs for with stones against stormy weather.
Bolzano (Bozen), then signs for Lana. Stop for refreshments at the village
VAL SENALES (SCHNALSTAL) Follow the brown signs for Val of San Pancrazio before heading on
Zur Goldenen Rose moderate d’Ultimo (Ultental) and the “Seilbahn” to San Nicolò and the Lahnersäge
Wood-panelled stuben and snug rooms (cable car). Turn right and park at the Visitor Centre (mid-May to Oct: open
with wooden floors make this a good cable car station in Lana. Tue–Sun) with its water-driven
bolt-hole halfway up the Val Senales.
Karthaus 29, Senales (Schnals); 0473 sawmill, just before the climb into
679 130; www.goldenerose.it 2 San Vigilio (Vigiljoch) the village of St Gertraud (1,519 m/
Alto Adige; 39011 4,984 ft), the starting point for hikes
Step into the cable car at Lana and in the Parco Nazionale dello Stelvio
travel back in time to 1912, when it (www.stelviopark.bz.it).
was built. It’s the second oldest in ª Return to Merano on SS38, skirting
Europe and climbs (May–Oct: daily) to west of town centre and turning
in stately fashion to Vigilius Mountain west into Venosta (Vinschgau) valley.
Resort – an eco-resort built from larch Soon after Naturno (Naturns) turn
that wraps around the mountain. right and take the long, winding road
From there, hop on a chairlift and into the Senales (Schnalstal) valley.
soar above the larch woods of Monte
San Vigilio (Vigiljoch), which has Matteo Thun
been a sacred place since prehistoric Born in Bolzano, architect Matteo
times. There’s a café with panoramic Thun has designed some ground-
views at the top, from where an breaking buildings in Alto Adige,
uphill hike (15 minutes on Path 4) from the Vigilius resort, which won
Wallpaper magazine’s design award
leads to the beautiful, simple in 2004, to the spa complex in
Romanesque Church of San Vigilio, Merano. In the 1980s, with Ettore
with 14th-century frescoes. Return Sottsass and others, he co-founded
on foot (1 hour; Path 3, then 34) or the Memphis Group, which injected
by chairlift to Vigilius – its restaurant colour, humour and pizzazz into
everyday design.
(Ida) is a popular stop for hikers.
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €100; moderate, €100–€200; expensive, over €200


090-095_Back_Roads_Northern_Italy.indd 90 21/09/17 11:17 am

DRIVE 8: The Hidden Valleys of the Alto Adige 91


EAT AND DRINK
ª Continue north up the Val Passiria
(Passeiertal) for 15 km (10 miles). Look MERANO
out for the Sandwirt inn on the right, Trattoria Mainardo moderate
just before San Leonardo. The museum This simple eatery is popular for its
is next to it. Park outside the restaurant hearty, delicious dishes made with
or in the car park left off the main road. fresh ingredients. Lovely, cozy
atmosphere and attentive service.
Via Mainardo 19; 0345 157 5412;
Andreas Hofer closed Sun
An innkeeper and cattle dealer,
Andreas Hofer (1767–1810) fought Sissi expensive
A top restaurant where renowned chef
for the Tyrol’s autonomy after it was Andrea Fenoglio produces modern
ceded to Bavaria in 1805. He Italian cuisine with a regional bent.
became a reluctant hero of the Galileistrasse 44, 39012; 0473 231
people after successful uprisings 062; www.sissi.andreafenoglio.com;
against Bavarian and Napoleonic
4 Val Senales (Schnalstal) troops. However, larger political closed Mon
Alto Adige; 39020 forces overtook him and he was AROUND SAN VIGILIO
Perched on a rocky outcrop, the betrayed to the invaders. Napoleon Pfefferlechner moderate
little church of Monte Santa Caterina supposedly gave the order to “give A down-to-earth place dating back to
(Katharinaberg) is one of the few him a fair trial and then shoot him”. 1297, where they brew their own beer,
He was executed in Mantua in 1810.
landmarks on the drive up the steep, distill their own schnapps and produce
wooded Senales valley. Many twists their own smoked bacon and trout.
Order the “Gupffleisch” in advance –
and turns lead to Certosa (Karthaus), 6 MuseumPasseier neck of pork in schnapps, with bacon
a village with a famous church and Alto Adige; 39015 dumplings and white cabbage. Kid-
cloister, home to a silent order of The Sandwirt inn was the birthplace friendly, there’s also a beer garden and
monks from 1326–1725. Continue of Andreas Hofer – the former stables playground outside and the medieval
dining rooms overlook the stables.
higher still to the Archeoparc (Jun– next door are now a museum (closed St Martinsweg 4, 39011 Lana; 0473
Nov: open daily) – a fascinating Mon except Aug & Sep) in his memory. 562 521; www.pfefferlechner.it
re-creation of a late Neolithic village A short film (in Italian, German and
in an Alpine landscape (1,500 m/4,921 English) tells Hofer’s story, giving an AROUND MUSEUMPASSEIER
ft) that was home to Ötzi the Iceman. insight into the Tyrolean fight for Trattoria Lamm moderate
The fascinating remains of this Copper independence – always with a In the main square of the village, the
17th-century Lamm inn prides itself
Age man were found mummified in strong identity, Alto Adige is, to this on its simple Tyrolean dishes, such as
the glacier above the valley in 1991, day, an autonomous province. The home-made pasta, and a lovely strudel
and now rest in Bolzano (see p100). museum reveals traditional Alpine made with local honey.
At the Archeoparc, visitors can try life via indoor displays and an open- Via Villaggio 36, 39010 San Martino in
their hand at archery, making fire, air exhibition of wooden chalets, Passiria (just before MuseumPasseier);
0473 641 240; www.gasthaus-lamm.it;
smelting copper ore, working a flint with barns and grain storage, a skittle closed Sun eve & Mon
tool or baking bread in the typical alley, beehives, a communal oven, a
domed ovens of 5,000 years ago. mill for making loden (local felt fabric)
ª Drive back down the valley and turn and a schnapps still.
left to Merano. In the town centre, pick ª Continue into San Leonardo in
up the brown signs for Val Passiria Passiria (St Leonhard). Take a right,
(Passeiertal), then Tirolo (Tirol). following the brown signs for the Below 12th-century Tirol Castle looks down
Parking is on the left, before the castle. Passo di Monte Giovo (Jaufenpass). on 13th-century Brunnenburg Castle
5 Castel Tirolo (Schloss Tirol)
Alto Adige; 39019
Such was the power of the counts of
Tirol, who built their mountain eyrie
in a strategic position on a hillside
above Merano, that the whole region
was named after them. Surrounded
by lush forest, this huge 12th-century
castle is well preserved and its keep,
temple, knight’s hall (an occasional
concert venue) and refectory are all
open to visitors. Within the complex
is a museum (mid-Mar–early Dec: open
Tue–Sun) of daily life in the Middle
Ages, with interactive displays.
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€45; expensive, over €45


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92 BACK ROADS NORTHERN AND CENTRAL ITALY


7 Passo di Monte 8 Abbazia di
Giovo (Jaufenpass) Novacella (Neustift)
Alto Adige; 39010 Alto Adige; 39040
Leaving the Passeier valley behind, In the 17th century, the Augustinian
there will be plenty of bikers and monks of Novacella commissioned a
perhaps a few hardy cyclists for Weltwunder-Brunnen, a depiction of
company on the ear-popping ascent the Seven Wonders of the World, for
to the Passo di Monte Giovo (2,094 their abbey, which had long been an
m/6,870 ft). This is the most northerly important centre of learning in the
road pass in Italy, giving access to Tyrol. In a moment of immodesty,
stunning views of ridge after ridge they added their church to the picture
along the Austro-Italian border. The as world wonder number eight. The
big skies and saw-toothed peaks, with abbey (closed Sun; Jan–Mar also closed
Above The road over the top of Italy at Passo a dusting of snow even in summer, Mon) offers a lot for the visitor to see,
di Monte Giovo (Jaufenpass) make it feel like driving over the top with its impressive bell tower and
of the world. As the landscape opens basilica, medieval cloister with
VISTING BRESSANONE out to high moorland, there are 14th-century frescoes, its maze of
opportunities to stop for a coffee and painting-lined galleries, gardens and
Parking admire the glorious views at makeshift a library in which the monks still
Park off Via Brennero (Brennerstrasse)
on the road from Novacella. Free parking roadside bars before making the long, work. The complex, built in southern
(max 2 hrs) just outside the pedestrian winding descent to Vipiteno (Sterzing) German Baroque style, is a great place
zone by the riverside at Stufles. in the Isarco (Eisack) valley. to wander and enjoy: surrounded by
Tourist Information ª Join A22 south towards Bolzano vineyards, the abbey makes its own
Viale Ratisbona 9 (Regensburger Allee (Bozen)/Verona. Take Bressanone wine which can be sampled in the
9); 0472 836 401; www.brixen.org Nord (Varna) exit and turn right towards small restaurant (closed weekends),
Bressanone. Exit from SS12, pass or bought from the shop.
through Varna following brown signs ª Exit the abbey and take SS12
WHERE TO STAY
for Quartiere Leone (Löwenhof), (not the motorway) into Bressanone.
ABBAZIA DI NOVACELLA then take the road for Abbazia di Park just outside the pedestrianized
Pacherhof inexpensive Novacella on the left. historic centre.
Near the abbey, this hotel makes its
own wine from vineyards dating from
the 11th century. Rooms have wooden 9 Bressanone (Brixen)
floors and spacious bathrooms; some Alto Adige; 39042
have balconies, and there’s a huge pool.
Vicolo Pacher 1, 39040 Novacella; 0472 With its cobbled streets, medieval arcades and classic beer gardens,
835 717; www.pacherhof.com; closed Bressanone (Brixen) seems like a busy metropolis after the quiet valleys
mid-Jan–mid-Mar earlier in the drive. Rich and powerful, Bressanone became an
BRESSANONE AND AROUND independent principate in the 11th century and its ruling bishops
Elephant inexpensive were constantly jockeying for power with the counts of Tyrol. Today,
This hotel has an elegant touch of this attractive town is the artistic and cultural capital of the region.
faded grandeur, and is centrally
located. It also has a formal restaurant
and more casual enoteca (wine bar). A two-hour walking tour the Gothic Kreuzgang 2 (cloister),
Via Rio Bianco 4, Bressanone; 047 This walk is best done Tue–Sat, when with a series of richly frescoed
283 2750; www.hotelelephant.com
the shops and museums are open vaulted archways painted between
Ansitz zum Steinbock moderate and the town is bustling. It begins 1370 and 1510 by artists from
Beamed ceilings and white-washed in Piazza Duomo (Domplatz), still Bressanone and Brunico (Bruneck).
walls characterize the uncluttered bed-
rooms in this imposing building, 18 km the focus of the town.
(11 miles) southwest of Bressanone, Bressanone’s cathedral, The Dom 1
just beyond Chiusa (Klausen). (open daily), was built in the 10th
Vicolo F. v. Defregger 1439040 Villandro century, rebuilt in the 13th century
(Villanders); 0472 843 111; www. and rebuilt again, in lavish Baroque
zumsteinbock.com; closed Jan
style, between 1745 and 1758, when
its twin onion domes were added. The
broad, vaulted nave is richly decorated
in marble and stucco with a ceiling
fresco of the Adoration of the Lamb by
Paul Troger (1698–1762), an Austrian
Right Pedestrians wander the narrow streets known for his illusionist paintings.
of Bressanone’s old town Through the cathedral’s right door is
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €100; moderate, €100–€200; expensive, over €200


090-095_Back_Roads_Northern_Italy.indd 92 21/09/17 11:17 am

DRIVE 8: The Hidden Valleys of the Alto Adige 93
















Above left The Abbazia di Novacella, set among
Return to Domplatz and turn into part of St Michael’s parish church. At vineyards Above right The Colossus, one of the
Piazza Parrocchia (Pfarrplatz), passing the cathedral, bear right into the Wonders of the World, Abbazia di Novacella
the Pfaundlerhaus 3 – a Gothic Portici Maggiori (Grosse Lauben) 8,
palazzo with a lavish Renaissance a shopping arcade that dates back to
façade. At the crossroads, turn right medieval times, but is now home to
into Via San Albuino (Albuingasse) fashion and speciality food shops.
and walk to Piazza Seminario Take a left turn into the small galleries TYROLEAN FOOD SHOPPING
(Seminarplatz) and the interesting of the Portici Minori (Kleine Lauben) Located just the other side of the river
18th-century seminary 4 (now a 9, built in the 1400s, then continue to the Abbazia di Novacella, DeGust
theology college) with views of Plose along Vicolo Vescovado (Hofgasse) to (Zona Bsackerau 1 Löwecenter, Varna;
mountain (2,500 m/8,200 ft) behind the Palazzo Vescovile (Hofburg) 0 0472 84 9873; www.degust.com;
it. Backtrack via the riverside Vicolo (Bishop’s Palace), surrounded by a closed Sun) sells well over 100 Italian
artisan cheeses, including Alpine styles
della Ghiare (Griesgasse) to the moat. The inner courtyard has such as the bittersweet blue cheese
Aquila (Adler) bridge, crossing the Renaissance archways that lead to the Golden Gel, matured in sweet grapes
River Eisack into the Stufels Museo Diocesano (Diozesanmuseum) and wrapped in hay. There are also
(Stufles) 5 district, the oldest part (closed Mon, Nov & Feb–mid-March). The preserves, chutneys, salamis and South
of Bressanone, doing a loop past the exhibits reveal just how powerful Tyrolean speck (smoked ham) for sale.
Schutzangelkirche (church) and Bressanone’s bishop-princes were:
the theatre back to the bridge. among the fine displays is a Byzantine
Recross the river to the Museo della silk cloak decorated with a stylized
Farmacia (Pharmaziemuseum) 6 eagle, the personal emblem of Bishop
(Tue–Wed 2–6pm, Sat 11am–4pm; Jul & Albuino – a gift from Emperor Henry II.
Aug open Mon–Fri & Sat, same hours). This Next to the palace is the Giardino dei
contains a fascinating collection of Signori (Herrengarten) q, a peaceful
antique vials for lotions and potions, monastery-style garden growing
as well as ornate medical manuals vegetables, herbs and flowers.
covering 400 years of medical ª Follow the road for the highway,
history. Re-enter the historic centre but before Chiusi’s exit, turn left
by the Torre Bianca (Weissenturm) and follow the brown signs for Val
gate 7 – the white tower is actually di Funes (Villnöss).
PASSAGGIO PO R TICI Pfaundlerhaus R A P P A N L A G E N ABBAZIA DI NOVACELLA
G R O S S E R G R A B E N (Adlerbrücke) (Stufles) EAT AND DRINK
Stufels
Pont Aquila
VIA PONTE AQUILA
UNTERE
(Pharmaziemuseum)
PORTICI MAGGIORI (GROSSE LAUBEN) PIAZZA Museo della Farmacia Other options moderate
Pacherhof (see p92) has four panelled
PARROCCHIA
(PFARRPLATZ)
SCHUTZENGELGASSE
Torre Bianca Gate stube, one of which is said to be the
(Weissenturm) (GRIESGASSE) oldest in South Tyrol. The menu gives a
PIAZZA The Dom modern spin on Tyrolean cuisine, using
DUOMO
VICOLO DELLA GHIARE
(DOMPLATZ) vegetables from their own garden.
(KLEINE LAUBEN)
PORTICI MIN O RI
ERHARDGASSE SEMINIARIO S EMINARGAS S E
VICOLO DEL DUOMO
Kreuzgang PIAZZA E i s a c k BRESSANONE
(SEMINARPLATZ)
Seminary Oste Scuro (Finsterwirt) expensive
Giardino dei Excellent local delicacies and a great
(HOFGASSE)
VICOLO VESCOVAD O
KLEINER GRABEN REGENBURGER ALLEE Signori (Herrengarten)
HOFBURG- atmosphere in this much-loved
PLATZ VIA BRUNO (BRUNOGASSE) 0 metres 100
Palazzo Vescovile restaurant; good wine list, too.
(Hofburg) Vicolo del Duomo 3, Bressanone; 0472
VIA SAN ALBUINO (ALBUING ASSE)
0 yards 100 835 343; www.finsterwirt.com; closed
Sun eve & Mon, Jun
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€45; expensive, over €45
090-095_Back_Roads_Northern_Italy.indd 93 21/09/17 11:17 am

94 BACK ROADS NORTHERN AND CENTRAL ITALY


q Passo dell’Erbe (Würzjoch)
Alto Adige; 39030
This road pass reaches more or less
the same giddy heights as some of
the more famous Dolomite passes,
but is one much less commercialized
and the view of the mountains on
the approach is sensational. Alta Via
2, one of the high-level trans-Dolomite
footpaths, crosses the road between
Kopfel Joch and Würzjoch, so parking
and having a half-hour or so walk in
either direction will give a flavour of
hiking these high trails. A visit to the
Ütia de Börz inn at the pass is
recommended – the food is good
and it is also a fabulous base for a
Above The church of Santa Maddalena, in an few days hiking (half-board and
idyllic setting in the Val di Funes (Villnöss) 0 Val di Funes (Villnöss) minimum three-day stay preferred).
Alto Adige; 39040 ª From the pass, descend to San
HIKING IN THE VAL DI FUNES A real gem of a valley, the spectacular Martino (St Martin) in Badia, passing
Kompass walking maps (1 cm : 500 m) Val di Funes is characterized by walls Ciastel de Tor. Turn left on the SS244
are essential as they show footpaths, of grey saw-toothed peaks – the Puez towards Brunico. Follow the signs for
level of difficulty and the steepness Odle (Puez Geisler) mountains – Brunico centre and the MMM Ripa.
of the terrain. Trails are simple to follow rising above the lush, green rolling Park at the castle.
– red and white blazes painted on
rocks and trees to keep walkers on meadows that open out after Funes.
the right path. Mountain refuges offer It’s a beautiful part of the drive for a Törggelen
good food and drink en route. gentle walk, or to spend a half-day An old South Tyrolean tradition, the
on a more ambitious hike such as Törggelen season roughly coincides
WHERE TO STAY the Adolf Munkel path – a five-hour with the arrival of the new season’s
circular trail that starts and ends in wine (Oct–mid-Nov). It’s a time when
AROUND VAL DI FUNES people go for hikes and gather to
Zannes (Zanser Alm) at the head of
Ansitz Ranuihof inexpensive the valley (see www.suedtirol.info; feast on local specialities before the
Once a hunting lodge, this farmhouse Kompass map 55). The path climbs onset of winter. The name comes
offers six comfortable doubles; breakfast from the Latin word torquere, to turn
includes milk and eggs from the farm. to 2,000 m (6,560 ft), at one point, or squeeze – referring to pressing
San Maddalena (St Magdalena) 39, giving panoramic views, and there grapes to make wine. Some say the
39040 Val di Funes (Villnöss) (after Funes, are huts or rifugi en route for tradition came from wine merchants
veer south to San Maddalena then revitalizing refreshments. visiting the wine growers to try the
take the road to St Johann and Ranui); new wine – after the tasting, they
0472 840 506; www.ranuihof.com ª From Funes, take SP163 uphill to would be given a feast. A typical
the signposted Kopfel Joch pass. There, Törggelen spread involves speck or
Below Alpe di Zannes and Le Odle ranges turn right on SP29 to the Passo dell’Erbe sausage, roast chestnuts and breads.
with Geisler Spitzen (Würzjoch). Park at Ütia de Börz inn.



















Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €100; moderate, €100–€200; expensive, over €200


090-095_Back_Roads_Northern_Italy.indd 94 21/09/17 11:17 am

DRIVE 8: The Hidden Valleys of the Alto Adige 95


Reinhold Messner
Mountaineer Reinhold Messner grew
up in Val di Funes (Villnöss) and learnt
to climb with his father. Messner
thought the usual “siege” techniques
used on mountaineering expeditions
were disrespectful to the environ­
ment and pioneered the Alpine style
of climbing – using minimal equip­
ment – in the Himalayas. He is
famous for making the first solo
Everest ascent without oxygen and
went on to become the first man to
climb all 14 of the world’s peaks over
8,000 m (26,250 ft). He founded a
mountain museum at five locations Above left Houses from the 16th and 17th
in the South Tyrol: the newest thanks to its position on the trade centuries, Brunico Above Castello di Brunico,
opened in 2011 in Brunico (Bruneck). route between Venice and Germany. home to the Messner Mountain Museum
In 2011, Reinhold Messner opened the Ripa Below left Cycling on the Alta Pusteria
doors to this fifth part of the Messner bikepath near Brunico (Bruneck)
w MMM Ripa at Mountain Museum Ripa – inside the
Brunico (Bruneck) Castello di Brunico (Jun–Sep & 8 Dec–
Alto Adige; 39031 Easter Mon: open Wed–Mon). The display EAT AND DRINK
The main market town of the Val is a tribute to the mountain peoples
Pusteria (Pustertal), Brunico (Bruneck) of the world who have made their AROUND PASSO DELL’ERBE
grew up around the castle built in homes at the very margins of where Hotel Lech da Sompunt expensive
1250 by the Prince­Bishop of Brixen, it is possible to live – Sherpas, Indios, Try spit­roasted porchetta (suckling
Bruno of Wullenstätten, and flourished Tibetans, Walser, Mongols and Hunzas. pig), fondue, and fresh trout from their
pond. Other specialities include canederli
(dumplings) and Kaiserschmarren (sweet
cranberry pancake). They also offer
simple, Tyrolean rooms to stay in.
Str Sompunt 36, 39036 Pedraces
(about 12 km/8 miles south of San
Martino on SP244); 0471 847 015;
www.lechdasompunt.it; closed 7 Apr–
10 Jun, Oct & Nov
Maso Runch expensive
Just east of Badia, this restaurant is
popular for its hearty six­course menu.
After rustic appetisers, expect home­
made ricotta and spinach ravioli, pork
shin with sauerkraut, local wine to
drink and apple strudel for dessert.
Runch 11, 39036 Pedraces (about 12 km/
8 miles south of San Martino on SP244);
0471 839 796; www.masorunch.it
DAY TRIP OPTIONS Take SS44 north from Merano, turn left Access all from the Passiria/Passeier
To break up the tour into day trips to Tirolo. Return to Merano, access Val valley road (the SS44).
for adults and children, use either Senales via SS38, picked up just outside
Merano or Bressanone as a base. Merano. Lana is also close to Merano – Taste of the mountains
follow SS238 for Bolzano/Bozen/Lana. Stock up on an Alpine picnic at the
Ice Man adventure bustling Saturday farmer’s market in
Children will enjoy travelling from Tyrolean treats Bressanone 9 or DeGust in Varna
Merano 1 and visiting the castle Plunge into the Tyrolean past at the (see p93) and hit the high­level trails
and interactive museum at Castel MuseumPasseier 6, then head up in the Val di Funes 0 or do a bit of
Tirolo 5. Next, it’s off to the to “drive over the roof of Italy” and the Alta Via 2 footpath from Passo
Archeoparc in Val Senales 4 to enjoy a high­altitude coffee or drink dell’Erbe q. Head on to the
discover how the Ötzi the Ice Man at the Passo di Monte Giovo 7. Return mountain museum at Brunico w
lived. Enjoy dinner at Pfefferlechner to Merano 1 to explore the botanical to learn about real mountain living.
in Lana (see p91), with its adventure gardens of Trauttmansdorff Castle.
playground and animals as well Finish off the day with a relaxing Follow the driving instructions from
as great food and beer brewed splash in the thermal pools at Bressanone to Val di Funes, Passo
on the premises. Merano’s beautiful new spa complex. dell’Erbe and Brunico. Return via SS49.

Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€45; expensive, over €45


090-095_Back_Roads_Northern_Italy.indd 95 21/09/17 11:17 am

BRNI_096-097_OpnDrv9.indd 96 27/10/11 5:50 PM
Back Roads LAYERS PRINTED:
Section opener template “UK” LAYER
(OpenType)
Date 02 November 2009
Size 145mm x 217mm
Font Myriad Pro

DRIVE 9





Milan
Turin Venice
IT AL Y
Genoa Bologna
Florence
Perugia
Rome



Classic

Dolomites

Tour


Bolzano to

Alpe di Siusi



Highlights

• Famous road passes
Negotiate exhilarating hairpin bends
and switchback roads that wind like
ribbons around the Dolomites
• Michelin-starred hot-spots
Dine at top-class restaurants on dishes
made from the finest local produce
• Time-travel experience
Visit Ötzi – the remains of a 5,000-year-
old Ice Man in Bolzano’s archaeological
museum – and follow the trail of
dinosaurs in the Bletterbach gorge
• Award-winning wine producers
Stop for tastings along the Strada del
Vino, in the oldest wine region of the
German-speaking world



Corvara nestles beneath the impressive Col
Alt mountain on the floor of the Badia valley




BRNI_096-097_OpnDrv9.indd 97 27/10/11 5:50 PM

98 BACK ROADS nORThERn AnD CEnTRAl ITAly

Classic Dolomites Tour

This itinerary is for those who like heights: it offers switchback roads, chairlift
and cable car rides – and dizzying haute cuisine. A popular skiing and hiking
area, there are exceptional hotels and restaurants in this province, which has
more Michelin stars than any other in Italy. The route crosses the most famous
passes of the Dolomites, a range of limestone mountains raised skywards 250
million years ago when Africa collided with Southern Europe. Bring hiking boots;
it’s worth getting out of the car and walking, not least for a glimpse of history.
Some trails lead along the World War I front line, where Italian and Austrian troops
dug themselves into the mountains to survive. In 1919, after war ended, this La Villa (Stern)
La Villa (Stern)
Ortisei
German-speaking region – known as South Tyrol – became a part of Italy. Ortisei
(St. Ulr VAL SAN CASSIANO
(St. Ulrich)ich)
S. Cassiano
Santa Cristina
Santa Cristina S. Cassiano
Kollfuschg
(St. Kassian)
Avigna
Avigna Longostagno V. Gardéna (Grödnertal) (Sankt Christina) Kollfuschg (St. Kassian) Punta di Fanis Nord
(Sankt Christina)
(Colfoso)
(Colfoso)
Longostagno
Punta di Fanis Nord
(A ng)
2969m
(Lengstein)
0 kilometres 8 (A ng) (Lengstein) Cast Castelrottoelrotto Selva Selva 2969m
VAL SAN CASSIANO
(Kastelruth)elruth)
(Kast
V. Gardéna (Grödnertal)
CORVARA
Vanga Siusi ello S (Wolkenstein) CORVARA
Vanga
(Wolkenstein)
Siusi ello Sciliarciliar
TRE SASSI FORTT
PASSO GARDENA
(Wangen)
0 miles 8 S. Genesio At. (Wangen) (Seis) (Seis) PASSO GARDENA TRE SASSI FOR
S. Genesio At.
Compacciocio
Collalbo
(Jenesien)
(GRÖDNER JOCH)
(Jenesien) Collalbo Compac (GRÖDNER JOCH)
(Compatsch)tsch)
(Compa
(Klobenstein)
LAGAZUOI (LAGACIÓ)GACIÓ)
Terlano
Terlano (Klobenstein) LAGAZUOI (LA
CASTEL RONCOLOONCOLO
Sella Gruppe
ALPE DI SIUSI (SEISER ALM)
(Terlan) CASTEL R ALPE DI SIUSI (SEISER ALM) Sella Gruppe
(Terlan)
(SCHLOSS RUNKELSTEIN)OSS RUNKELSTEIN)
(SCHL Eisack Eisack Fié allo Alpe di Siusi (Seiser Alm) Passo di Sella Piz Boé M.Averau
Fié allo
Piz Boé
M.Averau
Sciliar (
Passo di Sella
3152m
Sciliar (Völs)Völs)
3152m
Arabba
Alpe di Siusi (Seiser Alm)
2648m
Col di Lana
2244m
BOLZANO
BOLZANO M. Sciliar 2244m Arabba Col di Lana 2648m
2452m
2452m
M. Sciliar
(Rosengarten)
(BOZEN)
Prösels
(Schlern)n)
Predonic (BOZEN) Prösels (Schler Campitello Andraz
Predonicoo
Campitello
Andraz
2563m
(Per (Perdonig)donig) 2563m (Rosengartenspitze) atinaccio Catinaccio di Fassa PASSO PORDOI Pieve di
Pieve di
di Fassa
PASSO PORDOI
Livinallongo
Cima Catinaccio
Cima Catinaccio
S. Páolo (Rosengartenspitze) (Rosengarten) Avisio Canazei Livinallongo
S. Páolo
Avisio Canazei
Vigo di Fassa d i F a s s a
(St. P (St. Pauls)auls) 2981m Passo di Fedaia
2981mC
Passo di Fedaia
Tires Tires Penia Penia Lago di 2047m
2047m
Lago di
(Tiers) Passo Nig
Appiano
Appiano (Tiers) Passo Nigrara Fedaia
Fedaia
Cornaiano S. Giac
1688m
(Eppan)
(Eppan) Cornaiano S. Giacomoomo 1688m
VAL DI FASSAASSA
(Girlan)
(St. Jakob))
(Girlan) (St. Jakob Val d’E ga (Eggenta l ) Nov Nova Levantea Levante VAL DI F Marmolada
Marmolada
Pera di Fassa
3342m
(Welschnofen)en)
(Welschnof Pera di Fassa V a l d i F a s s a 3342m
Pozza di Fassa
Pozza di Fassa
Laves Ciampie
Laves
Ciampie
(Leif
(Leifers)ers)
Val d’E ga (Eggenta l )
Caldar Bronzolo TRENTINO Vigo di Fassa
Caldaroo
TRENTINO
Cima dell’Uomo
(Kalt (Kaltern)ern) Bronzolo Cima dell’Uomo
Taramelli
(Branzoll)oll)
(Branz AL Soraga V a l Taramelli 3010m
ALTO ADIGETO ADIGE
3010m
2759m
2759m
STR STRADA DEL VINOADA DEL VINO Soraga M o n z o n i
M o n z o n i
(WEINSTRASSE)ASSE)
Cast Castelvécchioelvécchio (WEINSTR Nov Novale (Rauth)ale (Rauth) Cimon
Cimon
del Latemar MoenaMoena
(Altenbur Aldino GEOP del Latemar
(Altenburg)g)
GEOPARCARC
Aldino
2840m
S. Giuseppe (Aldein) BLE BLETTERBACHTTERBACH 2840m
S. Giuseppe
(Aldein)
(St. Josef))
(St. Josef
Sella Sella Corno Bianco
Corno Bianco
Cima ValsordaValsorda
(Söll) (Söll) (Weißhor Cima 2752m Passo so di Lusia
Passo so di Lusia
(Weißhorn)n)
2752m
2056m
Termeno
Termeno Ora Ora Ober Oberradeinradein 2317m 2056m
2317m
(Tramin) (Auer) Pampeago
(Tramin)
Pampeago
(Auer)
Fon Fontanefreddetanefredde
(Kalt (Kaltenbrunn)enbrunn) Predazz
Predazzoo
Cortacciacia
Cortac S. Lugano
S. Lugano
Trodena
(Kur (Kurtatsch)tatsch) Adige (Etsch) Adige (Etsch) Egnaa Trodena Varena Bellamonte
Bellamonte
(Truden)
(Truden)
Varena
Egn
Ziano di
Ziano di
(Neumarkt)kt)
Cavalese
Fiemme
Mag Magréré (Neumar Cavalese Téser Téseroo Fiemme
(Mar (Margreid)greid)
V A L D I F I E M M E
Castelloello
Cast
ACTIVITIES di Fiemme V A L D I F I E M M E
di Fiemme
Taste the superb wines of the Alto Adige on the Strada del Vino
Walk back in time to the last Ice Age in the gorge at the
Geoparc Bletterbach
Ride up in a chairlift and hike in the Catinaccio mountains,
and enjoy delicious hearty food in a mountain refuge
Drive over the roof of Italy across the stunning Pordoi,
Falzàrego, Valparola and Gardena passes of the Dolomites
Climb through World War I galleries blasted into the rock at
lagazuoi and view wartime memorabilia at the Tre Sassi fort
Catch the enrosadira, when the Dolomites glow in the rays
of the setting sun
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