EYEWITNES S TRAVEL
Hungary
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EYEWITNES S TRAVEL
Hungary
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EYEWITNES S TRAVEL
Hungary
Main Contributors Barbara Olszańska,
Tadeusz Olszański, Craig Turp
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EYEWITNES S TRAVEL
Hungary
Main Contributors Barbara Olszańska,
Tadeusz Olszański, Craig Turp
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Contents
Produced by Hachette Livre Polska Sp. z o.o.
Senior Graphic Designer Paweł Pasternak Introducing Budapest Hungary Travellers’ Survival Guide
Graphic Designers Paweł Pasternak, Hungary Area by Area Region by Region Needs
Paweł Kamiński
Senior Editor Agnieszka Trzebska-Cwalina
Photographers Discovering Hungary 10 Budapest Hungary Where to Stay 262 Practical Information 296
Gábor Barka, Dorota and Mariusz at a Glance 54 at a Glance 130
Jarymowicz, Krzysztof Kur Putting Hungary Where to Eat Travel Information 304
Illustrators on the Map 16 Castle District 56 Around Budapest 132 and Drink 270
Michał Burkiewicz, Gary Cross, Dorota Index 312
Jarymowicz, Paweł Marczak A Portrait of Hungary 18 Gellért Hill and Tabán 70 Northern Shopping
Cartographers Transdanubia 150 in Hungary 286 Acknowledgments 325
Barbara and Jacek Gawrysiuk, Magda Polak
Hungary Through Around Parliament 80
Printed in China the Year 34 Southern Transdanubia Entertainment Phrase Book 327
18 19 20 21 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Central Pest 94 182 in Hungary 288
First published in Great Britain in 2007 The History
by Dorling Kindersley Ltd. of Hungary 38 Further Afield 106 The Northern Sports and Activities
80 Strand, London, UK, WC2R 0RL Highlands 212 in Hungary 290
Shopping
Reprinted with revisions 2010, 2013, in Budapest 118
2015, 2018 The Great Plain 234
Copyright © 2007, 2018
Dorling Kindersley Limited, London Entertainment
A Penguin Random House Company in Budapest 120
All rights reserved. No part of this
publication may be reproduced, Street Finder 122
stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted
in any form or by any means, electronic,
mechanical, photocopying, recording or
otherwise without the prior written
permission of the copyright owner. Statue of Dénes Szécsi,
A CIP catalogue record is available from a 15th-century archbishop
the British Library.
ISBN 978-0-24130-624-6
Floors are referred to throughout in
accordance with UK usage; i.e. the “first
floor” is the floor above ground level.
Inside the Hungarian State Opera House in central Budapest
The information in this
DK Eyewitness Travel Guide is checked regularly.
Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up-to-date as possible
at the time of going to press. Some details, however, such as telephone numbers,
opening hours, prices, gallery hanging arrangements and travel information are
liable to change. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for any consequences
arising from the use of this book, nor for any material on third party websites, and
cannot guarantee that any website address in this book will be a suitable source of
travel information. We value the views and suggestions of our readers very highly.
Please write to: Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel Guides, Dorling Kindersley,
80 Strand, London, WC2R 0RL, UK, or email: [email protected].
Title page The glittering interior of Hungary’s Parliament building, Budapest Front cover image One of the seven lookout towers St Stephen’s Basilica, Budapest
of Fisherman’s Bastion Back cover image Chain Bridge and the Danube River at twilight
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Contents
Hungary Travellers’ Survival Guide
Region by Region Needs
Hungary Where to Stay 262 Practical Information 296
at a Glance 130
Where to Eat Travel Information 304
Around Budapest 132 and Drink 270
Index 312
Northern Shopping
Transdanubia 150 in Hungary 286 Acknowledgments 325
Southern Transdanubia Entertainment Phrase Book 327
182 in Hungary 288
The Northern Sports and Activities
Highlands 212 in Hungary 290
The Great Plain 234
Statue of Dénes Szécsi,
a 15th-century archbishop
St Stephen’s Basilica, Budapest
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6 HOW T O USE THIS GUIDE HOW T O USE THIS GUIDE 7
HUNGAR Y REGION B Y REGION 133
HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE AROUND Introduction The Hungary Region by Region
BUDAPEST
Strategically sited castles and vast cathedrals, 1landscape, history and
including Hungary’s largest, look out over the The coloured areas shown on the
pleasure boats navigating the Danube Bend. The character of each region
This travel guide helps you get the most Region by Region section, which covers unique evening sunlight here has always attracted artists to the region, are portrayed here, with a map on the book’s inside front
and evidence of a rich cultural heritage is everywhere. Gödöllő boasts
the stunning Royal Palace, while the Duna-Ipoly National Park offers
from your visit to Hungary, providing all the important towns, cities and places a superb habitat for native wildlife. description of how the cover show the five main sight
With its darting twists and turns, steep seeking respite today are the thousands
detailed practical information as well as around the country, with photographs, banks and deep valleys, the Danube of Budapest residents who keep holiday area has developed over seeing regions into which Hungary
Bend has been a site of refuge for almost
homes in the area, and the legions of
2,000 years. Rome built garrisons here, and visitors on short trips from the capital –
there are remnants of that great empire a fact that is reflected in local prices. the centuries and what it has been divided. Each is covered
expert recommendations. Introducing maps and illustrations. Details of hotels, everywhere. The natural fortress that is the of the Börzsöny and the Duna-Ipoly offers the visitor today. in a full chapter in Hungary Region
Over on the east bank the rolling hills
Danube’s west bank was later the chosen
National Park – home to more than
site for the construction of the historic
Hungary maps the whole country and sets restaurants, shops and markets, entertain- towns of Visegrád and Esztergom, both half of Hungary’s native bird species –
built with protection and defence in mind. make for sensational hiking, walking
Esztergom was the scene of the Hungarian and birdwatching.
conversion to Christianity, and Visegrád This is perhaps the most cosmopolitan by Region (see pp128–259). The most
it in its historical and cultural context. ment and sports are found in Travellers’ was the impenetrable seat of royal power. part of Hungary, where visitors can expect interesting towns and places to visit
warm, welcoming and multilingual hosts,
Later still came Szentendre, which, like
but in summer it can be very hot and busy.
Ráckeve to the south of the capital, was
As autumn usually brings plenty of rain and
founded by Serbs fleeing persecution at
The first section, on Budapest, gives an Needs, while the Survival Guide contains home and, though few Serbs remain, winter can be very cold, the early spring – have been numbered on Regional
traces of their culture and their religion
March, April and May – may be the best
are evident everywhere. Those who come time for exploring these historic places.
overview of the capital’s main attractions. advice on everything from medical services Maps throughout the book.
Hungary’s regions are charted in the and public transport to personal safety.
134 HUNGAR Y REGION B Y REGION AROUND BUD APEST 135
Exploring Around Budapest Sights at a Glance
The countryside and villages around Budapest have always 1 Ráckeve
2 Ócsa
been a major draw for visitors to the capital. To the north is 3 Gödöllő p136 & pp138–9
the Danube Bend (Dunakanyar), and in the middle of it the 4 Vácrátót
5 Vác
art-loving village of Szen tendre. Further upriver are the
Budapest Area by Area BUD APEST AREA B Y AREA 95 Baroque town of Vác and Hungary’s most sacred city, 6 Szentendre pp142–4
7 Visegrád
Esztergom. Beyond, the Duna-Ipoly National Park offers
countless hiking and nature trails. The Royal Mansion in
Magnificent frescoes in the Serbian Orthodox Church in Ráckeve DUNA-IPOLY 8 Zebegény Regional Map This shows
9 Nagybörzsöny & Duna-Ipoly
Gödöllő to the east is worth seeing, and south of
National Park
CENTRAL PEST Statue of István, the first Hungarian king, at Esztergom – the site of his coronation NAGYBÖRZSÖNY NATIONAL PARK 0 Esztergom pp146–9
Budapest are the pretty town of Ráckeve and the Ócsa
Budapest has been divided At the end of the 17th century much of Pest most prominent example of this work is the Area Map For easy Nature Reserve, a unique habitat of reedy bogs. 2the road network and gives
was in ruins and few residents remained.
Hungarian National Museum. At this time
into four central areas and Within the next decades, however, new Pest surpassed Buda as a centre for trade and 1reference, the sights in ESZTERGOM ZEBEGÉNY VISEGRÁD VÁC Kosd The Royal Palace in Gödöllő, built by Count Antal Grassalkovich an illustrated overvi
residential districts were established – today’s industry. This was partly due to the Jewish
midtown suburbs. In the 19th century,
community, who actively helped develop the
a Further Afield section. redevelopment schemes introduced grand area. Today it combines commerce and culture each area are numbered Dorog Komárom SZENTENDRE Leányfalu Göd VÁCRÁTÓT Debrecen the whole region. The most
with beautiful architecture, elegant shopping
houses and apartment blocks, as well as
arcades and plentiful cafés and restaurants.
secular and municipal buildings. Perhaps the
Each area is described in an Sights at a Glance Churches and Synagogues and plotted on a map. Pilisvörösvar Pomáz Dunakeszi Veresegyház Aszód Key Motorway interesting places to visit
Museums
Major road
individual section, giving the q Museum of Applied Arts 6 Inner City Parish Church ARADI U. CSENGERY U. HUNYAGI Vörösmarty Sights in the city centre Beautiful waterlilies in the marshes around Ócsa Zsámbék Solymár Duna (Danub e) Csömör Fót Kerepes GÖDÖLLŐ
w Hungarian National Museum
9 University Church
pp102–3
Secondary road
e Great Synagogue
utca
i House of Terror Museum
Minor road
Streets and Squares
names of all main sights and Historic Buildings 1 Vigadó Square ANDRÁSSY ÚT. Oktogon TÉR KIRÁLY U. are also shown on the Getting Around Győr Budakeszi Kistarcsa Pécel Isaszeg Jászberény Main railway are also useful tips on
Minor railway
2 Mihály Vörösmarty Square
and Monuments
Budapest has an international airport, and from here
3 Turkish Bank
5 Váci Street
International border
destinations such as Szentendre, Gödöllő and Ócsa are
r Jewish Quarter
4 Pest County Hall
best reached by train, on the Budapest sub urban rail
Regional border
attractions. The sights are 7 Klotild Palaces VASVÁRY P. U. Opera KIRÁLY U. ERZSÉBET KÖRÚT Budapest Street Finder network (HÉV, see p310). Other sightseeing areas can be Biatorbágy Törökbálint Budaörs BUDAPEST Vecsés Gyömrő Sülysáp getting around the regi
8 City Council Chamber
visited by train or car. During the summer months, the
0 Ervin Szabó Library
most relaxing way to reach the Danube Bend is by Mahart
t New York Palace
Passnave motor boat, departing north wards from Vigadó
numbered on the area map. y Liszt Academy of Music ANDRÁSSY ÚT. PAULAY EDE U. KIRÁLY U. KAZINCZY U. KIS DIÓFA U. CSÁNYI U. KLAUZÁL TÉR KERTÉSZ U. on pages 122–7. tér in Buda pest. Services run to Esztergom and stop at fehérvár Érd Szigetszent- miklós Gyál Ül
u New Theatre
most towns along the way. Other services go to
Székes-
Bajcsy-
Szentendre and Vác.
Zs.út
Széchenyi Lánchíd EÖTVÖS JÓZSEF ATTILA U. ERZSÉBET TÉR HOLLÓ U. DOB U. ERZSÉBETVÁROS Szigethalom
TÉR JÓZSEF NÁDOR Deák Százhalom-
TÉR Ferenc tér Blaha batta
Vörösmarty HARMINCAD U. DOB U. WESSELÉNYI U. NAGY DIÓFA U. KLAUZÁL U. AKÁCFA U. Lujza Tér
tér KÁROLY KÖRÚT RUMBACH S. U. BLAHA LUJZA Dunavarsány ÓCSA Inárcs Szolnok
DEÁK FERENC U. VÁCI U. VÁROSHÁZ U. GERLÓCZY U. SÍP U. RÁKÓCZI ÚT. DOHÁNY U. STÁHLY U. TÉR Ercsi Ráckevei-Duna PEST
Da n u be
RÉGIPOSTA U. PETÕFI S. U. KOSSUTH L. U. Astoria SZENTKIRÁLYI U. VAS U. GYULAI PÁL U. SOMOGYI BÉLA U. JÓZSEF KÖRÚT Kiskunlacháza Bugyi Újhartyán
APÁCZAI U.
PESTI B. U. SZABAD SAJTÓ ÚT. Ferenciek MÚZEU BRÓDY SÁNDOR U. Rákóczi tér TÉR RÁCKEVE Dabas Kecskemét
JANE HANING RAKPART
GUTENBERG
tere
PUSKIN U.
DUNA U.
Sights at a glance Erzsébet híd BELVÁROS VERES PÁLNÉ U. KÁROLYI U. FERENCZY I. U. M KÖRÚT MAGYAR U. KÁLVIN MÚZEUM U. HORÁNSZKY U. KRÚDY U. MÁRIA U. A locator map shows at a Dömsöd
lists the buildings in MOLNÁR U. VÁCI U. SZERB U. KIRÁLYI PÁL U. TÉR Kálvin tér BAROSS U. MÁRIA U. JÓZSEF KÖRÚT glance where you are in Dunaúj- Kalocsa 0 kilometres 10 10
város
0 miles
a particular area by See also Street Finder Fővám tér FŐVÁM TÉR VÁMHÁZ KRT LÓNYAY U. RÁDAY U. IX Ü L LÕ I Ú T relation to the city plan. Inside Esztergom Basilica, centre of Catholicism in Hungary 166 HUNGAR For additional keys to symbols see ba
A statue of Justice, crowning the Baroque
town hall in Vác Y REGION B Y REGION
For hotels and restaurants see pp264–269 and pp276–285
maps 2 & 4
category. CSARNOK TÉR KINIZSI U. KNÉZITS U. Corvin Negyed collection of ecclesiastical family, who bought the town in
art. Another room contains
1534. Patriarch Tamás Nádasdy
0 metres 400 D a n u b e KÖZRAKTÁR U. RÁDAY U. a series of frescoes by István brought in Italian architects to
create a genuine Renais sance
Dorfmeister based on life in
0 yards 400 LÓ N YAY U . FERENC KÖRÚT Each region of Hungary can ancient Savaria. master piece, which, with
A short walk from the
various additions, survives more
the main centre of the city
Much of the castle is given
96 BUD APEST AREA B Y AREA CENTR AL PEST 97 be quickly identified using cathedral is Fő tér, today or less intact to the present day.
over to the Ferenc Nádasdy
and a shopper’s paradise that
Ornate façade on Váci Street, which like much of central Pest is pedestrianized For keys to map symbols see back flap is popular with mothers and Museum, the highlight of which
are two series of frescoes:
children. There are further
Street-by-Street: Around Váci Street AROUND the colour coding on the Roman ruins at the Iseum Ruin 17th-century works showing
Garden on Batthány tér, featuring
the Hungarians in battle with
PARLIAMENT
A suggested route for a The northern section of Váci Street has been Budapest’s fashionable CENTRAL inside front cover. a temple to the goddess Isis, the Turks and scenes from the
Old Testa ment painted by István
believed to be one of only three
area for walking, meeting in cafés and shopping in elegant boutiques
Dorfmeister in 1769. There are
ever found in Europe. Next door
walk is shown in red. since the early 19th century. Its attractive promenade is an enjoyable GELLÉRT PEST The impressive hilltop Benedictine abbey church in Ják is the Szombathely Gallery. In also exhibitions of the family’s One of the outdoor pools at
place for a stroll in the evening, when it is stylishly illuminated.
May, when more than 50 kinds
and town’s histories, regional
HILL AND
folk art and period furniture.
of rhodo dendron are in full
TABÁN
Gerbeaud Cukrászda Locator Map Danube w Ják e Szombathely bloom, the Kámoni Arbor etum The castle is reached via a long t Bük disorders, and the grounds are
stone bridge over what was
is one of the best See Street Finder map 4 12 km (7 miles) south of Szom bathely. 101 km (60 miles) southwest of Győr.
north of the city centre is well
patisseries in town. Road Map A4. * 2,400. @ from Road Map A3. * 115,000. £ from worth a visit. once a moat. 24km (15 miles) northeast of Szom- well laid out with grassy areas,
Szombathely. Sopron, Győr. @ from Zalaergeszeg. In 1961, during a search for bathely. Road Map A3. * 3,100. children’s play grounds, snack
n Tourinform, Király utca 1/A, (94) 31 oil (see below), hot springs £ from Szombathely, Sopron. @ bars and restaurants. A fair-sized
The Benedictine St George’s 72 69. _ Bartók Classical Music (44 °C/111 °F) were found in from Szombathely. n Tourinform, resort has also grown up around
Holy Figures adorn the Abbey Church (Jáki Szent Festival (Jul); Savaria Carnival (Aug). Sárvár, and the Sárvár Spa Eötvös utca 11, (94) 55 84 19. the pool complex, and the
Vigadó concert D O R O T T Y A U 19th-century façade of the 5 . Váci Street Detailed information All the György Bence’s Apátsági Founded by the Romans in and Wellness Centre is now Thermal springs were dis covered Greenfield H
Budapest’s most elegant promenade and shopping area is lined with
Street-by-Street Map This hall 3 Turkish fashion boutiques, cafés, fountains and statues. Off the street there and most impressive example AD 43, and known as Savaria, plexes and, after its renovation at this village near the Austrian the thermal bath
(see p293), a short walk from
Baroque Servite Church.
Templom) is the best-preserved
one of the largest bath com-
are old courtyards and shopping arcades.
border in 1956 during a search
Szombathely was an important
of Romanesque archi tecture in
and extension, the most mod-
Hungary’s finest golfing centre.
indoor and outdoor pools,
Health and Adventure Centre
Hungary to have hosted a
twin-towered master piece,
the “Amber Road” from the
2bird’s-eye view shows the heart of V I G A D Ó U Bank Párizsi Udvar is found on the 3important towns and other Hungary. Built in 1214–56, this trading and staging post on ern in Hungary. It comprises for oil. Since then the Bükfürdő It is the only 18-h
professional golf tournament.
Baltic Sea to Italy. Every August
leisure and splash pools, a
influenced by late Norman
has grown to become one of
sauna and a treatment centre
architecture, sits imposingly on
places to visit are described
the Savaria Carnival recreates
Hungary’s largest, and most
corner of Kígyó utca and Petőfi
Bük Medicinal Baths
those ancient days, and
attractive medicinal bath
a hilltop above the village. The
offering various therapies.
Sándor utca. The arcade,
each sightseeing area. The sights D E Á K F E R E N C U currently closed for renovation, individually. They are listed in western façade is worthy of note hundreds of volunteers don E Ferenc Nádasdy Museum complexes. There are 32 indoor Termál körút 2.
Open winter: 8:30am–6pm daily;
and outdoor pools of various sizes
with its recessed doorway, a
Roman costumes and engage
is set to become a hotel with
richly decorated portal featuring
Várkerület 1. Tel (95) 32 01 58.
summer: 8:30am–7:30pm daily.
in battles, dancing and music.
and temp eratures, offering treat-
shops downstairs.
Open Jul–Aug: 9am–9pm; Sep–Jun:
carry the same numbers here as order, following the numbering almost life-size carvings of Jesus The remains of the once-vast Szombathely Cathedral, Hungary’s largest 9am–5pm. & 8 ments for a variety of different & 7
Roman Forum (Savaria was
and the Apostles. This style,
Baroque church
the capital of Roman Pannonia
called the Porta Speciosa
Oil and Water
Sárvár Spa and Wellness
Superior) are among
technique, was refined here
Centre
on the area map and the fuller V Á C I U T C A on the Regional Map. Each entry before becoming a model the city’s leading r Sárvár Vadkert utca 1. Tel (95) 52 36 00. Many of the largest thermal
for Roman esque
Open 8am–10pm daily. & 7
sights, with mosaic
bath complexes in Hungary,
such as those at Bük and
churches all over
floors and the
25 km (16 miles) east of Szom bathely.
Hungary. Inside the
public baths clearly
Sárvár, have only been in
Road Map A3. * 15,000. £ from
description on subsequent pages. P A R I Z S I U church are original visible. There is Szombathely. @ from Szombathely. existence since the latter
14th-century
part of the 20th century,
more Roman
n Tourinform, Várkerület 33, (95) 52
when the thermal springs
treasure on show
frescoes showing
01 78).
2 Mihály Vörösmarty Square has details of the main sights. the church’s at the Savaria that serve them were
found during oil searches.
A Carrara marble monument R É G I P O S T A U T C A founder, Jáki Nagy Detail on the portal of the Museum. Standing The Magyars built an earth Desperate to fuel its
to the poet Mihály Vörösmarty Márton, and his Benedictine abbey in Ják next to the ruins is castle (sárvár translates quite industrialization, Hungary’s
stands in this square. The statue family. The church the city’s cathedral, literally as “mud castle”) here in Communist government
was created by Ede Telcs and V Á C I U T C A was fully restored in 1890 Hungary’s largest Baroque the 10th century. Long before hoped that the discovery of
symbolizes the Hungarian by Frigyes Schulek, who also church, built in 1791–4. Its that it appears the Romans the Nagylengyel oil field in
nation united in the poet’s K I G Y Ó U 7 . Klotild Palaces restored the Mátyás Church interior suffered great damage had some fortifications here, the west of the country in Indoor thermal baths in Sárvár
words: “Your homeland, These beautifully decorated twin buildings, in Buda pest (see pp66–7). The during World War II and is and even the Celts found this 1951 would be the first of
Hungary, serve unwave ringly”. designed as elegant apartment blocks in tiny St Jakab Chapel opposite undergoing continuous resto- confluence of the Rába river a many oil strikes in the region. Vast sums of money were spent
the Historicist style, flank each side of the was built in 1260 for the use ration work. However, it is open sound defensive position. The foraging for oil, though all that was found was what became known
approach to the Elizabeth Bridge.
of non-monastic villagers. to the public. Next to it is the Sárvár Castle that now attracts as “white gold”: thermal water. Some small deposits of crude oil
Bishop’s Palace, an attractive visitors is far from the mud of were eventually located, but although Hungary does produce
Thonet House was built in 1888– R St George’s Abbey Church Rococo building whose Sala yore, how ever, having been oil (Zalaegerszeg is the centre of the industry; see p162), domestic
Fő tér. Tel (94) 35 60 14. Open 8am–
production accounts for less than 10 per cent of consumption.
90 by Ödön Lechner (see p87) and 6pm daily. 7 Terrena houses the Dio cesan built in the 16th century. Its The Knights Hall in Sárvár Castle, with
Gyula Pártos. The building stands Museum, which has a fine patrons were the Nádasdy superb battle frescoes
today in its original form, featuring P E S T I U 0 metres 50 For hotels and restaurants see pp264–269 and pp276–285
Zsolnay ceramics from Pécs.
114 BUD APEST AREA B Y AREA FUR THER AFIELD 115 0 yards 50 Key 180 HUNGAR Y REGION B Y REGION NOR THERN TR ANSD ANUBIA 181
Suggested route
Péterffy Palace, now the Százéves
community. At the end of e Buda Hills h Pannonhalma Abbey Cloister VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Étterem, is one of Pest’s few
the 19th century, nearly a Budai-hegység remaining Baroque mansions. Built Remains of Contra The story of Pannonhalma Abbey is as old as Basilica Late Gothic vaulting in the
cloister was added during
Aquincum
by András Mayerhoffer in 1755 for
quarter of the city’s inhabit ants q Széll Kálmán tér, then v 56, then 6 . Inner City Parish Church The Basilica’s stained- renovation of the abbey, Practical Information
were Jewish. Tombs to look cog-wheel railway and chair lift. This limestone and marble Hungary itself. A UNESCO World Heritage Site since glass windows were carried out during the reign Vár 1, Pannonhalma, 20 km (12
the magistrate János Péterffy, above
out for as you stroll among the gateway there is a beautiful tabernacle, in the church, dates 1996, there has been an abbey here since 1002, added in around 1860. of King Mátyás, in 1486. miles) SE of Győr. Road Map B3.
the graves include that of the To the west of the city centre from the early 16th century the same year St István brought Christianity to the This one depicts St Tel (96) 57 01 91. Open 21 Mar–
balcony supported by atlantes.
Wellisch family, designed in For hotels and restaurants see pp264–269 and pp276–285 Magyars. The original abbey burned down and was Ladislaus, or László I, a Apr & Oct–11 Nov: 9am–4pm The visitors’ checklist gives all the
are the wooded Buda Hills.
1903 by Arthur Wellisch, and There are many caves here, pious knight-king of Tue–Sun; May: 9am–4pm daily;
that of Konrád Polnay, which including Szemlőhegyi and replaced in 1137 with a Romanesque construction, the 11th century Jun–Sep: 9am–5pm daily; 12
was designed five years later Pálvölgyi-barlang. itself superseded by the late Romanesque–early canonized a century Nov–20 Mar: 10am–3pm Tue– practical informa tion needed to
Sun. Library: Tel (96) 57 01 91.
by Gyula Fodor. Perhaps the The first station of a Gothic basilica still in existence today. The basilica’s after his death. & 8 7 ^ Abbey. 0 =
most eye catching of all tombs cog- wheel railway, built in main portal of receding arches is one of the most
belongs to the Schmidl family. 1874, is on Szilágyi Erzsébet important surviving examples of a Porta Speciosa Transport plan your visit.
The startlingly flamboyant fasor. This runs up Sváb Hill – Stars indicate the sights extant in Hungary. £ @
edifice, designed in 1903 named after the Germanic
by Hungary’s prominent Foyer in the Palace of Arts, a multi-arts performance venue Swabians, who settled here
architects Ödön Lechner and under the Habsburgs (see pp44–5) . Arboretum
Béla Lajta, is covered in vivid q Palace of Arts fence of the wild and craggy – and then Széchenyi Hill. that no visitor should miss. The arboretum on the
The excavations of the Roman town Aquincum and the museum turquoise ceramic tiles. The (MÜPA) 300-sq-m (360-sq-yd) reserve From Széchenyi Hill a eastern slope has been
narrow-gauge railway covers
that it encloses. It is worth taking
central mosaic in green and
the site of more than
Művészetek Palotája
8 Aquincum drainage system. The sanctuaries gold tiles represents the Komor Marcell utca 1. v 1, 2, 2A, 24. the guided walk in the reserve, a 12-km (7-mile) route to the 1,200 rare tree, shrub and
Aquincum of the goddesses Epona and Tree of Life. Ticket office (for all events): Tel (1) 555 parti cularly in spring or early Hűvös Valley. As in the days herbaceous plant species Major Sights Historic buildings
Fortuna can also be seen. autumn. This is one of the only of the Soviet Young Pioneers since 1802. Most of the
Szentendrei út 135. Tel (81) 430 10 81. On the other side of the hév 33 00 or online. Open 10am–6pm places to see the endangered movement, the railway is staffed species have grown wild
£ Aquincum. @ 34, 42, 106. railway line, the remains of an 0 Budapest daily. 8 ∑ mupa.hu Museum of Centaurea sadleriana, a flower by children, apart from the adult in the abbey’s grounds.
Archeological park: Open Apr–Oct: amphi theatre are visible, where Holocaust Contemporary Art: Tel (1) 555 34 44. 4are dissected to reveal their
9am–6pm Tue–Sun; Nov–Mar: subject Memorial Centre Open 10am–8pm Tue–Sun. that resembles a cornflower but train drivers. At the top of János
to weather. Exhibitions: Open Apr– the town’s inhabitants once ∑ ludwigmuseum.hu with a much larger flower head. Hill stands the Erzsébet Look- Our Lady Chapel
Oct: 10am–6pm Tue–Sun; Nov–Mar: sought entertainment. Holokauszt Emlékközpont The reserve is also home to a Out Tower, designed by Frigyes On the far side of the abbey, Our Lady
10am–4pm Tue–Sun. 8 & Páva utca 39. Tel (1) 455 33 33. The Palace of Arts, located in the blue grass and a spider found Schulek in 1910. A chair lift Chapel has three Baroque altars and a tiny interiors; museums and galleries
∑ aquincum.hu 9 Jewish Cemetery q Ferenc körút. @ 4, 6, 30, 30A. Millennium City Centre on the Pest nowhere else in the world, as connects János Hill with organ. The abbey’s monks are buried here.
Zugligeti út and this is a good
side of the Danube, between
well as extra ordinary, colourful
∑ hdke.hu
The remains of the Roman town Zsidó temető Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun. Lágymányos Bridge and the butterflies and a rare lizard. way of making the descent. Detailed information All the
of Aquincum were excavated Kozma utca 6. @ 37. new National Theatre, brings have colourcoded floorplans to
at the end of the 19th century. This outstanding memorial together all the arts under one
Visitors today are free to stroll Next door to the Municipal centre is dedicated to the tens roof. Permanent residents in 3important sights in Budapest are
along its streets, viewing the Cemetery is the Jewish of thousands of Hungarians the palace include the Ludwig
outlines of temples, baths, Cemetery, opened in 1893. deported from the Budapest Museum of Con tem porary Art, help you find the most
shops and houses, in what was The many grand tombs here Ghetto to Auschwitz in the the Béla Bartók National Concert
once the centre of the town. are a vivid reminder of the latter stages of World War II. Hall, the Festival Theatre and the described individually. Practical
The civilian town of Aquincum, vigour and Housed in a former synagogue, National Dance Theatre.
capital of the Roman province success of the exhibition tells of the fate important exhibits.
of Pannonia Inferior, was founded Budapest’s suffered by Hungarian Jews, w Eagle Hill Nature
at the beginning of the 2nd prewar Gypsies and other victims. Reserve information includes a map Western Tower
century AD, a couple of decades Jewish The most moving part of Sas-hegy Természetvédelmi Terület Very much the abbey’s calling card,
after a legionary fortress had the memorial is the former and its most recognizable feature,
been established to its south. main prayer hall, given over Tájék utca 26. Tel (30) 477 67 20, (30) the Western Tower, added in 1832,
For centuries, it was the largest to the photos of members 408 43 70. @ 8, 8A. Open 10am–6pm reference, opening hours and . Porta Speciosa can be seen from far away.
city in central Europe. of the congregation who Tue, Fri–Sun & pub hols, or by Though now hemmed in by Main entrance
In the centre of the site a once worshipped here. arrangement. 8 compulsory. extensions to the com plex, the
museum is housed in a Neo- The 8-m- (24-ft-) high telephone numbers. The key to Porta Speciosa is an outstanding
Classical lapidarium displaying glass wall around the A nature reserve such as example of its kind – an
the most valuable Roman centre, designed by this that is close to the ornamental portal held in red The Benedictine Order
archaeological finds from the László Zsótér, is centre of a large city is a marble with rich wood carvings.
area. The items on display inscribed with the remark able phenomenon. the symbols used can be found The Order of St Benedict, oldest of the religious orders, was founded by
include weapons and various names of all Hun- Access to the summit of KEY Benedict of Nursia, who set up the first monastery at Monte Cassino, Italy, Story boxes highlight specific aspects
inscribed stone monuments. garians known to this steep, 266-m- (872-ft-) in 529. Benedict wanted to re-establish a sense of community in the
Only a fraction of the former have died in the high hill to the west of Gellért 1 The Benedictine Grammar turmoil after the collapse of the Roman Empire, and ever since commu-
town is open to visitors today, but Shoah. It allows Hill (see pp73) is strictly regulated on the back jacket flap. School was founded in 1802 and nity and hospitality have been the hallmarks of the Benedictines. relating to a top sight and explore these
Benedictine monks are known for living by their labour; Pannonhalma
it is nonetheless impressive with new names to be to protect the extremely rare is one of the finest in Hungary. The is no exception. The 40 monks who still live at the abbey oversee
its remarkable central heating added; the goal is animal and plant species found entrance exams are famously tough. . Library the production and sales of the wine (vineyards surround the
system based on hot air circu- one day to have a here. A smart residential quar ter 2 The Treasury is home to a rich The Neo-Classical library holds abbey), Benedic tine liqueur, honey, tea and lavender products.
lated under mosaic floors. A drain complete list of all of attractive bourgeois villas, collection of ecclesiastical art and 400,000 volu mes, including the in more depth.
cover is evidence that there who perished in which lies on the lower slope of historical artifacts. Tihany Manu script, the earliest A wine produced at Pannonhalma
was a good water supply and Schmidl family tomb at the Jewish Cemetery the Holocaust. Eagle Hill, extends almost to the The Erzsébet Look-Out Tower at the summit of János Hill, Buda Hills example of written Hungarian.
For hotels and restaurants see pp264–269 and pp276–285 For hotels and restaurants see pp264–269 and pp276–285
Ede Heinrich, The Coronation of Franz Joseph I on 8 June 1867
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HOW T O USE THIS GUIDE 7
HUNGAR Y REGION B Y REGION 133
AROUND
BUDAPEST Introduction The Hungary Region by Region
Strategically sited castles and vast cathedrals, 1landscape, history and
including Hungary’s largest, look out over the The coloured areas shown on the
pleasure boats navigating the Danube Bend. The character of each region
unique evening sunlight here has always attracted artists to the region,
and evidence of a rich cultural heritage is everywhere. Gödöllő boasts map on the book’s inside front
the stunning Royal Palace, while the Duna-Ipoly National Park offers are portrayed here, with a
a superb habitat for native wildlife.
description of how the cover show the five main sight
With its darting twists and turns, steep seeking respite today are the thousands
banks and deep valleys, the Danube of Budapest residents who keep holiday seeing regions into which Hungary
Bend has been a site of refuge for almost homes in the area, and the legions of area has developed over
2,000 years. Rome built garrisons here, and visitors on short trips from the capital –
there are remnants of that great empire a fact that is reflected in local prices. has been divided. Each is covered
everywhere. The natural fortress that is the Over on the east bank the rolling hills the centuries and what it
Danube’s west bank was later the chosen of the Börzsöny and the Duna-Ipoly
site for the construction of the historic National Park – home to more than in a full chapter in Hungary Region
towns of Visegrád and Esztergom, both half of Hungary’s native bird species – offers the visitor today.
built with protection and defence in mind. make for sensational hiking, walking
Esztergom was the scene of the Hungarian and birdwatching. by Region (see pp128–259). The most
conversion to Christianity, and Visegrád This is perhaps the most cosmopolitan
was the impenetrable seat of royal power. part of Hungary, where visitors can expect
Later still came Szentendre, which, like warm, welcoming and multilingual hosts, interesting towns and places to visit
Ráckeve to the south of the capital, was but in summer it can be very hot and busy.
founded by Serbs fleeing persecution at As autumn usually brings plenty of rain and
home and, though few Serbs remain, winter can be very cold, the early spring –
traces of their culture and their religion March, April and May – may be the best have been numbered on Regional
are evident everywhere. Those who come time for exploring these historic places.
Maps throughout the book.
134 HUNGAR Y REGION B Y REGION AROUND BUD APEST 135
Exploring Around Budapest Sights at a Glance
2 Ócsa
The countryside and villages around Budapest have always 1 Ráckeve
been a major draw for visitors to the capital. To the north is 3 Gödöllő p136 & pp138–9
the Danube Bend (Dunakanyar), and in the middle of it the 4 Vácrátót
art-loving village of Szen tendre. Further upriver are the 5 Vác
Baroque town of Vác and Hungary’s most sacred city, 6 Szentendre pp142–4
7 Visegrád
Esztergom. Beyond, the Duna-Ipoly National Park offers
Magnificent frescoes in the Serbian Orthodox Church in Ráckeve DUNA-IPOLY 8 Zebegény Regional Map This shows
countless hiking and nature trails. The Royal Mansion in
9 Nagybörzsöny & Duna-Ipoly
Gödöllő to the east is worth seeing, and south of
Statue of István, the first Hungarian king, at Esztergom – the site of his coronation NAGYBÖRZSÖNY NATIONAL PARK National Park
Budapest are the pretty town of Ráckeve and the Ócsa 0 Esztergom pp146–9
Nature Reserve, a unique habitat of reedy bogs. 2the road network and gives
ZEBEGÉNY The Royal Palace in Gödöllő, built by Count Antal Grassalkovich
Kosd
ESZTERGOM an illustrated overview of
VISEGRÁD
VÁC
Komárom the whole region. The most
Leányfalu
Dorog VÁCRÁTÓT
SZENTENDRE Göd Debrecen
Key
Veresegyház Aszód interesting places to visit
Pomáz Dunakeszi Motorway
Pilisvörösvar Major road
Beautiful waterlilies in the marshes around Ócsa Fót GÖDÖLLŐ Tura Major road under construction are numbered and there
Solymár Duna (Danub e) Secondary road
Zsámbék Csömör Kerepes Minor road
Getting Around Győr Kistarcsa Isaszeg Main railway are also useful tips on
Budapest has an international airport, and from here Budakeszi Minor railway
destinations such as Szentendre, Gödöllő and Ócsa are International border
best reached by train, on the Budapest sub urban rail Pécel Jászberény Regional border
network (HÉV, see p310). Other sightseeing areas can be Biatorbágy Budaörs BUDAPEST getting around the region
visited by train or car. During the summer months, the Törökbálint Sülysáp
most relaxing way to reach the Danube Bend is by Mahart Gyömrő
Passnave motor boat, departing north wards from Vigadó Vecsés by car and train.
tér in Buda pest. Services run to Esztergom and stop at Érd Gyál
most towns along the way. Other services go to Székes- Üllő
Szentendre and Vác. fehérvár Szigetszent- Monor
miklós
Szigethalom
Százhalom-
batta
Dunavarsány ÓCSA Inárcs Szolnok
Ráckevei-Duna PEST
Ercsi
Kiskunlacháza Bugyi Dabas Újhartyán
RÁCKEVE
Kecskemét
Dömsöd
Dunaúj- Kalocsa
város
0 kilometres 10
0 miles 10
A statue of Justice, crowning the Baroque
town hall in Vác Y REGION B Y REGION
Inside Esztergom Basilica, centre of Catholicism in Hungary 166 HUNGAR NOR THERN TR ANSD ANUBIA 167
For hotels and restaurants see pp264–269 and pp276–285 For additional keys to symbols see back flap
collection of ecclesiastical family, who bought the town in
art. Another room contains 1534. Patriarch Tamás Nádasdy
a series of frescoes by István brought in Italian architects to
Dorfmeister based on life in create a genuine Renais sance
ancient Savaria. master piece, which, with
Each region of Hungary can A short walk from the various additions, survives more
cathedral is Fő tér, today
or less intact to the present day.
over to the Ferenc Nádasdy
be quickly identified using the main centre of the city Much of the castle is given
and a shopper’s paradise that
is popular with mothers and
Museum, the highlight of which
children. There are further are two series of frescoes:
the colour coding on the Roman ruins at the Iseum Ruin 17th-century works showing
the Hungarians in battle with
Garden on Batthány tér, featuring
a temple to the goddess Isis,
the Turks and scenes from the
inside front cover. believed to be one of only three Old Testa ment painted by István
ever found in Europe. Next door
Dorfmeister in 1769. There are
also exhibitions of the family’s
is the Szombathely Gallery. In
The impressive hilltop Benedictine abbey church in Ják May, when more than 50 kinds and town’s histories, regional One of the outdoor pools at the Bükfürdő Health and Adventure Centre
folk art and period furniture.
w Ják e Szombathely bloom, the Kámoni Arbor etum The castle is reached via a long
of rhodo dendron are in full
12 km (7 miles) south of Szom bathely. 101 km (60 miles) southwest of Győr. north of the city centre is well stone bridge over what was t Bük disorders, and the grounds are
Road Map A4. * 2,400. @ from Road Map A3. * 115,000. £ from worth a visit. once a moat. 24km (15 miles) northeast of Szom- well laid out with grassy areas,
Szombathely. Sopron, Győr. @ from Zalaergeszeg. In 1961, during a search for bathely. Road Map A3. * 3,100. children’s play grounds, snack
n Tourinform, Király utca 1/A, (94) 31 oil (see below), hot springs £ from Szombathely, Sopron. @ bars and restaurants. A fair-sized
The Benedictine St George’s 72 69. _ Bartók Classical Music (44 °C/111 °F) were found in from Szombathely. n Tourinform, resort has also grown up around
Festival (Jul); Savaria Carnival (Aug).
Eötvös utca 11, (94) 55 84 19.
Detailed information All the György Bence’s Apátsági Founded by the Romans in and Wellness Centre is now Thermal springs were dis covered Greenfield Hotel Golf and Spa
Abbey Church (Jáki Szent
Sárvár, and the Sárvár Spa
the pool complex, and the
Templom) is the best-preserved
one of the largest bath com-
(see p293), a short walk from
and most impressive example AD 43, and known as Savaria, plexes and, after its renovation at this village near the Austrian the thermal baths, is home to
3important towns and other of Romanesque archi tecture in Szombathely was an important and extension, the most mod- border in 1956 during a search Hungary’s finest golfing centre.
trading and staging post on
ern in Hungary. It comprises
It is the only 18-hole course in
Hungary. Built in 1214–56, this
for oil. Since then the Bükfürdő
Hungary to have hosted a
the “Amber Road” from the
twin-towered master piece,
indoor and outdoor pools,
Health and Adventure Centre
leisure and splash pools, a
influenced by late Norman
professional golf tournament.
has grown to become one of
Baltic Sea to Italy. Every August
places to visit are described architecture, sits imposingly on the Savaria Carnival recreates sauna and a treatment centre Hungary’s largest, and most Bük Medicinal Baths
attractive medicinal bath
offering various therapies.
those ancient days, and
a hilltop above the village. The
western façade is worthy of note
Termál körút 2. Tel (94) 55 80 80.
complexes. There are 32 indoor
hundreds of volunteers don
with its recessed doorway, a Roman costumes and engage E Ferenc Nádasdy Museum and outdoor pools of various sizes Open winter: 8:30am–6pm daily;
individually. They are listed in richly decorated portal featuring in battles, dancing and music. Szombathely Cathedral, Hungary’s largest Várkerület 1. Tel (95) 32 01 58. and temp eratures, offering treat- summer: 8:30am–7:30pm daily.
The remains of the once-vast
Open Jul–Aug: 9am–9pm; Sep–Jun:
ments for a variety of different
& 7
almost life-size carvings of Jesus
9am–5pm. & 8
and the Apostles. This style,
Roman Forum (Savaria was
order, following the numbering called the Porta Speciosa the capital of Roman Pannonia Baroque church Sárvár Spa and Wellness Oil and Water
technique, was refined here
Superior) are among
Centre
Vadkert utca 1. Tel (95) 52 36 00.
before becoming a model
Many of the largest thermal
the city’s leading
for Roman esque floors and the r Sárvár Open 8am–10pm daily. & 7 bath complexes in Hungary,
sights, with mosaic
churches all over
on the Regional Map. Each entry Hungary. Inside the public baths clearly 25 km (16 miles) east of Szom bathely. Sárvár, have only been in
such as those at Bük and
Road Map A3. * 15,000. £ from
visible. There is
existence since the latter
church are original
Szombathely. @ from Szombathely.
more Roman
part of the 20th century,
14th-century
n Tourinform, Várkerület 33, (95) 52
has details of the main sights. frescoes showing Detail on the portal of the treasure on show 01 78). The Magyars built an earth when the thermal springs
the church’s
at the Savaria
that serve them were
found during oil searches.
founder, Jáki Nagy
Museum. Standing
Márton, and his Benedictine abbey in Ják next to the ruins is castle (sárvár translates quite Desperate to fuel its
industrialization, Hungary’s
family. The church the city’s cathedral, literally as “mud castle”) here in Communist government
was fully restored in 1890 Hungary’s largest Baroque the 10th century. Long before hoped that the discovery of
by Frigyes Schulek, who also church, built in 1791–4. Its that it appears the Romans the Nagylengyel oil field in
restored the Mátyás Church interior suffered great damage had some fortifications here, the west of the country in Indoor thermal baths in Sárvár
in Buda pest (see pp66–7). The during World War II and is and even the Celts found this 1951 would be the first of
tiny St Jakab Chapel opposite undergoing continuous resto- confluence of the Rába river a many oil strikes in the region. Vast sums of money were spent
was built in 1260 for the use ration work. However, it is open sound defensive position. The foraging for oil, though all that was found was what became known
of non-monastic villagers. to the public. Next to it is the Sárvár Castle that now attracts as “white gold”: thermal water. Some small deposits of crude oil
Bishop’s Palace, an attractive visitors is far from the mud of were eventually located, but although Hungary does produce
R St George’s Abbey Church Rococo building whose Sala yore, how ever, having been oil (Zalaegerszeg is the centre of the industry; see p162), domestic
Fő tér. Tel (94) 35 60 14. Open 8am– Terrena houses the Dio cesan built in the 16th century. Its The Knights Hall in Sárvár Castle, with production accounts for less than 10 per cent of consumption.
6pm daily. 7 Museum, which has a fine patrons were the Nádasdy superb battle frescoes
For hotels and restaurants see pp264–269 and pp276–285
180 HUNGAR Y REGION B Y REGION NOR THERN TR ANSD ANUBIA 181
h Pannonhalma Abbey Cloister VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Late Gothic vaulting in the
The story of Pannonhalma Abbey is as old as Basilica cloister was added during Practical Information
Hungary itself. A UNESCO World Heritage Site since The Basilica’s stained- renovation of the abbey, Vár 1, Pannonhalma, 20 km (12
carried out during the reign
glass windows were
1996, there has been an abbey here since 1002, added in around 1860. of King Mátyás, in 1486. miles) SE of Győr. Road Map B3.
the same year St István brought Christianity to the This one depicts St Tel (96) 57 01 91. Open 21 Mar– The visitors’ checklist gives all the
Apr & Oct–11 Nov: 9am–4pm
Magyars. The original abbey burned down and was Ladislaus, or László I, a Tue–Sun; May: 9am–4pm daily;
replaced in 1137 with a Romanesque construction, pious knight-king of Jun–Sep: 9am–5pm daily; 12
the 11th century
itself superseded by the late Romanesque–early canonized a century Nov–20 Mar: 10am–3pm Tue– practical informa tion needed to
Gothic basilica still in existence today. The basilica’s after his death. Sun. Library: Tel (96) 57 01 91.
& 8 7 ^ Abbey. 0 =
main portal of receding arches is one of the most
important surviving examples of a Porta Speciosa Transport plan your visit.
£ @
extant in Hungary.
. Arboretum
The arboretum on the
eastern slope has been
the site of more than
1,200 rare tree, shrub and
herbaceous plant species Major Sights Historic buildings
since 1802. Most of the
species have grown wild
in the abbey’s grounds. 4are dissected to reveal their
Our Lady Chapel
On the far side of the abbey, Our Lady
Chapel has three Baroque altars and a tiny interiors; museums and galleries
organ. The abbey’s monks are buried here.
have colourcoded floorplans to
help you find the most
important exhibits.
Western Tower
Very much the abbey’s calling card,
and its most recognizable feature,
the Western Tower, added in 1832,
. Porta Speciosa Main entrance can be seen from far away.
Though now hemmed in by
extensions to the com plex, the
Porta Speciosa is an outstanding
example of its kind – an
ornamental portal held in red The Benedictine Order
marble with rich wood carvings.
The Order of St Benedict, oldest of the religious orders, was founded by
KEY Benedict of Nursia, who set up the first monastery at Monte Cassino, Italy, Story boxes highlight specific aspects
in 529. Benedict wanted to re-establish a sense of community in the
1 The Benedictine Grammar turmoil after the collapse of the Roman Empire, and ever since commu-
School was founded in 1802 and Benedictine monks are known for living by their labour; Pannonhalma relating to a top sight and explore these
nity and hospitality have been the hallmarks of the Benedictines.
is one of the finest in Hungary. The is no exception. The 40 monks who still live at the abbey oversee
entrance exams are famously tough. . Library the production and sales of the wine (vineyards surround the
2 The Treasury is home to a rich The Neo-Classical library holds abbey), Benedic tine liqueur, honey, tea and lavender products.
collection of ecclesiastical art and 400,000 volu mes, including the in more depth.
historical artifacts. Tihany Manu script, the earliest A wine produced at Pannonhalma
example of written Hungarian.
For hotels and restaurants see pp264–269 and pp276–285
Ede Heinrich, The Coronation of Franz Joseph I on 8 June 1867
006-007_EW_Hungary.indd 7 18/09/17 3:37 pm
INTRODUCING
HUNGARY
Discovering Hungary 10–15
Putting Hungary on the Map 16–17
A Portrait of Hungary 18–33
Hungary Through the Year 34–37
The History of Hungary 38–51
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INTRODUCING
HUNGARY
Discovering Hungary 10–15
Putting Hungary on the Map 16–17
A Portrait of Hungary 18–33
Hungary Through the Year 34–37
The History of Hungary 38–51
Hun_008-009.indd 9 17/02/2015 13:01
10 INTRODUCING HUNGAR Y DISC OVERING HUNGAR Y 11
DISCOVERING HUNGARY
The itineraries on the following pages have must-see sights, stopping off at the key
been designed to include as many of towns and cities, as well as some of the areas
Hungary’s highlights as possible, while of outstanding natural beauty. Lastly, there
keeping long-distance travel manageable. is a wonderful two-week tour of the whole
First comes a two-day tour of the country’s country, which takes in all the sights of the
exhilarating capital, Budapest. This is followed one-week tour and much more besides. Extra
by a two-day tour of Lake Balaton, with suggestions are provided for those who wish
suggestions for places to visit both along the to extend their stay by another day or so: add
shoreline itself and just inland. A one-week one, or perhaps two or three, or just dip in
tour of the country covers many of Hungary’s and out and take things at your own pace.
The fairytale Parliament building in Budapest
Aggteleki
Aggteleki
National Park
National Park
Szilvásvárad
Szilvásvárad
Lillafüred
Lillafüred T Tokajokaj
Bükk
Bükk
National Park
National Park
Nyíregyháza
Hollókő
Hollókő Nyíregyháza
Tis a (Tisza)
Eger
Eger
Esztergom
Esztergom Vá
Danube (Duna)
Danube (Duna)
Vácc
Sopron
Sopron V Visegrádisegrád Tis a (Tisza)
Győr Tataata
Győr
T
Szentendre
Fertőd Szentendre T Tiszafürediszafüred
Fertőd
Pannonhalma
Pannonhalma
Lake
Lake
Budapest
Budapest T Tiszaisza Hortobágy
Hortobágy
Debrecen
Rába
Kőszeg Rába National Park Debrecen
National Park
Kőszeg
Lake
Lake
V
Velenceelence
Herend
Herend
V
View across tiled rooftops from Sopron’s Veszprémeszprém Danube (Duna) Danube (Duna)
Körös
Firewatch Tower to the Benedictine Church Tihanyihany Körös
T
Siófok
Őrség
Őrség Siófok
Kecskemét
Region Badacsony Lake Balatonföldvár Kecskemét
Region
Badacsony
Balatonföldvár
Lake
Hévíz Balaton Köröshegy 0 kilometres 50
Hévíz
Balaton
Köröshegy
Kiskunsági
Keszthely Kiskunsági
Keszthely
National Park
Kis- National Park 0 miles 50
Kis-
Balaton
Balaton
A Week in Hungary
Kaposvár
Kaposvár
• Spend the day exploring
Szeged
noble Budapest, Hungary’s Baja Szeged
Baja
great capital city. Pécs
Pécs
• Head to Lake Balaton to chill Szigetvár
Szigetvár
Mohács
out on the beach or try your Mohács
hand at some watersports. Siklós Villányillány Two Weeks in Hungary
V
Siklós
Drava
• Marvel at extraordinary Drava
pre-Christian and Turkish • Admire the architecture, • Visit the forested Orség
monuments in lively Pécs. wallow in steam baths, region, unspoiled rural
• Seek out ecclesiastical and enjoy the coffee Hungary at its finest.
treasures in Szeged, including houses of Budapest. • Marvel at the art of
the Great Synagogue. • Follow the dramatic Csontváry and Art
• Witness stunning Key sweep of the Danube Nouveau master Rippl-
horsemanship in the A Week in Hungary Bend, taking in the Rónai, in Pécs and
Hortobágy National Park on Two Weeks in Hungary architectural treasures Kaposvár respectively.
Hungary’s Great Plain. found in charming • Explore the fabulously
towns along the route.
• Visit a UNESCO-listed village preserved old town of
dedicated to indigenous • Savour legendary Bull’s Sopron, and take a tour
folk culture, then continue Blood red wine in Eger, of the opulent Esterházy
onwards to the gorgeously then sip a glass of golden Palace, where Haydn
Baroque town of Vác. sweet wine from Tokaj. once performed.
Marvel at the poise of the legendary csikós, or cowboys, of the Great Plain
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DISC OVERING HUNGAR Y 11
The fairytale Parliament building in Budapest
Aggteleki
National Park
Szilvásvárad
Lillafüred Tokaj
Bükk
National Park
Hollókő Nyíregyháza
Eger
Esztergom Vác
Danube (Duna)
Sopron Visegrád Tis a (Tisza)
Győr Tata
Fertőd Szentendre Tiszafüred
Pannonhalma
Budapest Lake Hortobágy
Tisza
Kőszeg Rába National Park Debrecen
Lake
Velence
Herend
Veszprém Danube (Duna)
Tihany Körös
Őrség Siófok
Region Badacsony Lake Balatonföldvár Kecskemét
Hévíz Balaton Köröshegy 0 kilometres 50
Keszthely Kiskunsági
Kis- National Park 0 miles 50
Balaton
Kaposvár
Szeged
Baja
Pécs
Szigetvár
Mohács
Siklós Villány Two Weeks in Hungary
Drava
• Admire the architecture, • Visit the forested Orség
wallow in steam baths, region, unspoiled rural
and enjoy the coffee Hungary at its finest.
houses of Budapest. • Marvel at the art of
• Follow the dramatic Csontváry and Art
Key sweep of the Danube Nouveau master Rippl-
A Week in Hungary Bend, taking in the Rónai, in Pécs and
architectural treasures Kaposvár respectively.
Two Weeks in Hungary
found in charming • Explore the fabulously
towns along the route. preserved old town of
• Savour legendary Bull’s Sopron, and take a tour
Blood red wine in Eger, of the opulent Esterházy
then sip a glass of golden Palace, where Haydn
sweet wine from Tokaj. once performed.
010-011_EW_Hungary.indd 11 18/09/17 3:38 pm
12 INTRODUCING HUNGAR Y DISC OVERING HUNGAR Y 13
Two Days in Budapest Synagogue, the largest in Europe, One Week in Hungary
before heading up Andrássy út
to view – or even take a tour of
Straddling the Danube, – the opulent Opera House • Arriving Arrive at Budapest
Hungary’s capital city offers (pp92–3) and the striking eight- Liszt Ferenc Airport. It’s
two contrasting, but equally sided Oktogon square, beyond about 50 minutes by public
compelling, sides – Buda which lies the engrossing, but transport to the centre.
and Pest. sobering, House of Terror • Getting Around A car is
Museum (p105). essential for this trip.
• Arriving Budapest Liszt
Ferenc Airport is 20km (13
miles) southeast of the city. It’s Afternoon Ride the beautifully
about 50 minutes by public preserved M1 metro line to Day 1: Budapest
transport to the centre. Heroes’ Square (pp108–9) and Pick a day from the city itinerary
its mighty monuments. Then, opposite; Day 1 takes in the
either amble around the lake in city’s major historical and
Day 1 Városliget park (p110) before cultural landmarks, or mix and
Morning Explore the Castle visiting Budapest Zoo (p121), match to suit your taste. Tokaj wine ageing in underground rock-hewn cellars
District (pp56–69), the historic whose Secessionist-style animal Baroque statue supporting a window lintel
heart of Buda. Admire the fine enclosures are a delight, or go at Festetics Palace near Keszthely Day 2: Lake Balaton Day 3: Kaposvár to the renowned csikós (the Plains
13th-century Mátyás Church for a blissful soak in the fabulous Head southwest from Budapest Villány-Siklós Wine Road cowboys) and their thrilling
(pp66–7) before taking in the Széchenyi Baths (p111). before enjoying a cultural fix at to Lake Balaton (pp198–9). Due south of Balaton lies displays of horsemanship.
superlative views across the the village museum in Zamárdi Start in Tihany (p206), where Kaposvár (p189), which merits a
Danube from the Fisherman’s Two Days on (p199). Board the ferry to the you can nose around this visit by virtue of its links to To extend your trip…
Bastion (p64). Move on to the Lake Balaton lake’s northern shore, landing at pretty village, crowned by a József Rippl-Rónai, one of Drive to Hungary’s second
Royal Palace (pp58–9), home to the Tihany Peninsula (p206), glorious abbey church, or go Hungary’s most celebrated city, Debrecen (pp254–5), in
the engrossing Hungarian with its pleasing little village off and explore the peninsula’s artists. Continue south again to eastern Hungary, then on to
National Gallery (pp62–3). Holiday playground for crowned by the Abbey Church. inland lakes. After lunch, board Pécs (pp190–91), a vibrant city Nyíregyháza (pp258–9),
many Hungarians, and the Lunch in one of the village’s the ferry to Siófok (p198) on noted for its splendid Turkish- whose church architecture
Afternoon After lunch on the largest lake in central many traditional restaurants. the southern shore; try your influenced architecture. End the is second to none.
Hill, take the Sikló funicular Europe, Balaton is packed hand at some beach activities, day with a short tour along the
down to the majestic Chain with both active and Afternoon Make the short trip then, for a drop of culture, sunny wine road between
Bridge. Cross the bridge to Pest cultural pursuits. to Balatonfüred (p207) for a follow the shoreline down to Villány (p187) and Siklós Day 6: Through the Northern
and St Stephen’s Basilica (pp90– • Arriving From Budapest walk along the shoreline of the Balatonföldvár (p199) and (p188), home to many of Highlands
91), Budapest’s most important airport, you can hire a car, go lake’s most graceful resort. its exceptional Iron Age Hungary’s most renowned No better way to start the day
ecclesiastical building. Ride the Return back down along the fortifications, or Köröshegy vintners; dozens of cellars await than by sampling some world-
scenic no. 2 tram along the Pest by train from Budapest Déli coast to Badacsony Mountain (p199) and its Gothic church. for some impromptu tasting. famous Tokaj wine, in the town
station, or take a domestic
embankment as far as the (p205), and follow the trail up of the same name (p232). Take a
Central Market Hall (p118), flight to Keszthely – in which into the vineyard-clad hills and To extend your trip… Day 4: Baja to Kesckemét trip through the beech-covered
case, reverse the itinerary.
where you can indulge your the Kisfaludy Lookout Tower, Continue along the lake’s Cross the Danube near Baja hills of Bükk National Park
senses and treat yourself to a • Getting Around Public where you can enjoy views of western shore to cultured (p238) – fish capital of Hungary (pp224–5), visiting either the
few goodies. In the evening, transport is feasible; a car the lake with a glass of wine. Keszthely (pp200–201) and the – and push on towards Szeged Anna Cave in Lillafüred (p225)
take in a performance at the gives you more flexibility. thermal lake at Héviz (p204). (pp246–7); here, an architectural or the Lipizzaner horses in
Liszt Academy of Music (p105). Day 2 treasure trove awaits, notably Szilvásvárad (p228). In the far
Morning Heading inland, visit the Great Synagogue and Reök western reaches of the
Day 2 Day 1 Tapolca (p205), whose sublime Palace, two Secessionist master- Highlands, explore Hollókő
Morning Absorb yourself in the Morning Take to the beach in setting is one of the best on the pieces. Drive north through (pp218–19), an extraordinary two-
atmospheric Jewish Quarter Siófok (p198), and perhaps try lake; do not miss the incredible Kiskunság National Park (p239) street village where traditional
(p104), dominated by the Great your hand at some watersports, Cave Lake. Back down on the to Kecskemét (pp240–41) where customs remain strong.
shoreline, the pretty village of you’ll find fabulous museums.
Szigliget (p204–5) lies in wait, Day 7: Down the Danube
with its atmospheric castle ruins. Day 5: Across the Great Plain Spend a day by the Danube.
Make your way into the heart of Begin in Vác (p137) with a stroll
Afternoon Venture round to the Great Plain, the first stop of around its gorgeous Baroque
the lake’s western shore and the day being Lake Tisza square, then board the ferry to
Keszthely (pp200–201), packed (pp252–3) where you can try Visegrád (p145) on the west
with great museums and the your hand at some boating or bank, whose citadel and palace
Festetics Palace (pp202–3), birdwatching – or just chill out both merit a visit, as do the
notable for its remarkable on the beach. After a picnic surrounding hills. Continue
Helikon library and gorgeous lunch, head east to Hortobágy south along the river to
English gardens. Have a pit stop National Park (p256), classic Szentendre (pp142–4) and
in one of the town’s convivial Puszta territory, with its diverse learn about the town’s strong
cafés before the short trip to range of wildlife (water buffalo, Serbian links and rich artistic
Héviz (p204) for a soak in one of Visegrád on the Danube Bend, at one of the corkscrew-horned sheep and legacy. From here, it’s a short
Budapest’s Royal Palace atop Castle Hill, the historic heart of Buda the world’s largest thermal lakes. river’s narrowest points wild boar). It’s also home to the trip back to Budapest.
For practical information on getting around Budapest, see pp310–11
012-015_EW_Hungary.indd 12 18/09/17 3:38 pm 012-015_EW_Hungary.indd 13 18/09/17 3:38 pm
DISC OVERING HUNGAR Y 13
One Week in Hungary
• Arriving Arrive at Budapest
Liszt Ferenc Airport. It’s
about 50 minutes by public
transport to the centre.
• Getting Around A car is
essential for this trip.
Day 1: Budapest
Pick a day from the city itinerary
opposite; Day 1 takes in the
city’s major historical and
cultural landmarks, or mix and
match to suit your taste. Tokaj wine ageing in underground rock-hewn cellars
Day 2: Lake Balaton Day 3: Kaposvár to the renowned csikós (the Plains
Head southwest from Budapest Villány-Siklós Wine Road cowboys) and their thrilling
to Lake Balaton (pp198–9). Due south of Balaton lies displays of horsemanship.
Start in Tihany (p206), where Kaposvár (p189), which merits a
you can nose around this visit by virtue of its links to To extend your trip…
pretty village, crowned by a József Rippl-Rónai, one of Drive to Hungary’s second
glorious abbey church, or go Hungary’s most celebrated city, Debrecen (pp254–5), in
off and explore the peninsula’s artists. Continue south again to eastern Hungary, then on to
inland lakes. After lunch, board Pécs (pp190–91), a vibrant city Nyíregyháza (pp258–9),
the ferry to Siófok (p198) on noted for its splendid Turkish- whose church architecture
the southern shore; try your influenced architecture. End the is second to none.
hand at some beach activities, day with a short tour along the
then, for a drop of culture, sunny wine road between
follow the shoreline down to Villány (p187) and Siklós Day 6: Through the Northern
Balatonföldvár (p199) and (p188), home to many of Highlands
its exceptional Iron Age Hungary’s most renowned No better way to start the day
fortifications, or Köröshegy vintners; dozens of cellars await than by sampling some world-
(p199) and its Gothic church. for some impromptu tasting. famous Tokaj wine, in the town
of the same name (p232). Take a
To extend your trip… Day 4: Baja to Kesckemét trip through the beech-covered
Continue along the lake’s Cross the Danube near Baja hills of Bükk National Park
western shore to cultured (p238) – fish capital of Hungary (pp224–5), visiting either the
Keszthely (pp200–201) and the – and push on towards Szeged Anna Cave in Lillafüred (p225)
thermal lake at Héviz (p204). (pp246–7); here, an architectural or the Lipizzaner horses in
treasure trove awaits, notably Szilvásvárad (p228). In the far
the Great Synagogue and Reök western reaches of the
Palace, two Secessionist master- Highlands, explore Hollókő
pieces. Drive north through (pp218–19), an extraordinary two-
Kiskunság National Park (p239) street village where traditional
to Kecskemét (pp240–41) where customs remain strong.
you’ll find fabulous museums.
Day 7: Down the Danube
Day 5: Across the Great Plain Spend a day by the Danube.
Make your way into the heart of Begin in Vác (p137) with a stroll
the Great Plain, the first stop of around its gorgeous Baroque
the day being Lake Tisza square, then board the ferry to
(pp252–3) where you can try Visegrád (p145) on the west
your hand at some boating or bank, whose citadel and palace
birdwatching – or just chill out both merit a visit, as do the
on the beach. After a picnic surrounding hills. Continue
lunch, head east to Hortobágy south along the river to
National Park (p256), classic Szentendre (pp142–4) and
Puszta territory, with its diverse learn about the town’s strong
range of wildlife (water buffalo, Serbian links and rich artistic
Visegrád on the Danube Bend, at one of the corkscrew-horned sheep and legacy. From here, it’s a short
river’s narrowest points wild boar). It’s also home to the trip back to Budapest.
012-015_EW_Hungary.indd 13 18/09/17 3:38 pm
14 INTRODUCING HUNGAR Y DISC OVERING HUNGAR Y 15
Hortobágy National Park Day 12: The Őrség Region
(p256), distinguished by its to Sopron
superb nine-arched stone From Balaton, head west to the
bridge, though the real lush, thickly forested Őrség
highlight will be a breath- Region (p163), dotted with pretty
taking display of horsemanship villages. Turning north, take
by the blue-skirted csikós some time to amble around
cowboys of the Plain. delightfully sleepy Kőszeg
(pp168–9), the most attractive
Day 6: Lake Tisza to town in western Transdanubia.
Kecskemét Continue north to Sopron
The vast Plain extends west (pp172–5), with, arguably,
towards Lake Tisza (pp252–3) – Hungary’s finest medieval old
the country’s second-largest town; climb its Firewatch Tower
lake after Balaton and home for superlative views.
to some stunning birdlife, Festetics Palace, housing a superb library and several unusual museums
including peregrine falcons. Day 13: Győr and
There are watersports available which is distinguished by its northern shore. Disembark at Pannonhalma Abbey
The town of Eger, famous for its robust red wine too, particularly around magnificent blue stained-glass Tihany Peninsula (p206) and Leaving Sopron, visit the
Tiszafüred (p250), the lake’s dome. For a spot of post- walk up to exquisitely pretty Esterházy Palace in Fertőd (p171),
Two Weeks in charms of Hollókő (pp218–9), main resort. Turning south, sightseeing refreshment, Tihany village. After lunch, work a Baroque and Rococo master-
Hungary where you can also learn about Kecskemét (pp240–43) has an seek out Klauzál square and its your way along the shoreline to piece; you may even catch a
the customs of the local Palóc exceptional stock of Baroque buzzing outdoor cafés. Badacsony (p205), where you lunchtime concert in the room
• Arriving Arrive at Budapest people. Spend the afternoon and Secessionist masterpieces; can divide your afternoon where Haydn used to perform.
Liszt Ferenc Airport. It’s perusing the rich and varied don’t miss the wildly colourful, Day 8: Mohács to Pécs between the village itself and The next major town heading
about 50 minutes by public sights of Eger (p220–23), Art Nouveau Cifrapalota palace, Cross the Danube at Mohács Badacsony mountain, a stiff east is Győr (p178–9), stuffed
transport to the centre. especially its fabulous castle housing a wonderful gallery. (pp186–7) for the Memorial Park, climb but well worth it for the with Baroque churches and
• Getting Around A car is (part of which can be explored site of the famous Battle of marvellous lake views. mansions. It’s a short hop south
essential for this trip. underground) and graceful Day 7: Szeged Mohács in 1526. The route west to the sombre elegance of
16th-century minaret. Second only in size to from here takes you along the Day 11: Keszthely and Héviz Pannonhalma Abbey (p180–81),
Trying some of Eger’s famous Hortobágy, the Kiskunság lovely wine road between The lake’s western shore with its awesome 330,000-
Day 1: Budapest “Bulls Blood” wine is a must. National Park (p239) has a Villány (p187)and Siklós (p188), beckons this morning, and first volume Empire-style library.
Pick a day from the city itinerary similarly horsey vibe, thanks where it’d be remiss not to up is Keszthely (pp200–201),
on page 12. Day 1 takes in the Day 4: Bükk National Park to the Bugac stud farm. pause in one or two of the Balaton’s most charming town; Day 14: Tata to Lake Velence
city’s major landmarks, or mix to Tokaj Devote the rest of the day to many cellars along the way. take a guided tour of the stately Begin your last day in Tata
and match to suit your taste. In the morning, make for the sightseeing in Szeged (pp246–7). From here, take a sharp turn Festetics Palace (pp202–3), (p177), a delightful lakeside town
forested heights of the Bükk Start in Dóm square, flanked north to Pécs (pp190–91), as then stroll around its fragrant nestled around a moated castle.
Day 2: Along the hills in the Bükk National Park by handsome arcades and vibrant a city as any in Hungary; rose gardens. A few miles out Then discover how some of the
Danube Bend (p224–5), whose abundant overlooked by the mighty one place not to miss is the of town, while away an hour or finest hand-painted porcelain
Head north out of Budapest attractions include the Votive Church, then cross Csontváry Museum, containing so in Héviz (p204), the world’s in the world is made, touring
to Szentendre (pp142–4), magnificent Lipizzaner horses in town to the New Synagogue, the oeuvre of one of Hungary’s second-largest thermal lake; the Herend factory with its
a former Serbian enclave Szilvásvárad (p228) and the greatest painters. note that hiring a rubber ring tempting shop. From here,
replete with fine ecclesiastical Anna Cave in Lillafüred (p225). is de rigueur. Returning south, strike out for Veszprém (p208–
architecture, artistic treasures There are, though, even more Day 9: Szigetvár to Lake make for the reedy Kis- 9) and its beautifully preserved
and the unmissable Hungarian spectacular caves at Baradla in Balaton Balaton (“Little Balaton”) Castle District. Ornithologists
Open-Air Museum. Further up the Aggtelek National Park Travel north to Szigetvár (p194) nature reserve (p198), where will appreciate a stop at bird
the Danube, Visegrád (p145) (p228) skirting the Slovakian to view the town’s numerous you’ll encounter an impressive haven Lake Velence (p154) on
hoves into view, defined by its border. Round off the day in Turkish relics, before continuing range of migratory birds. the way back to Budapest.
two major historical ruins – the Tokaj (p232), Hungary’s most to Kaposvár (p189), whose
Royal Palace and the citadel. celebrated wine region, with a most important sights revolve
After a riverside lunch, track the glass of Tokaji Aszú. around the work of József
course of the Danube round to Rippl-Rónai, the father of
Esztergom (pp146–9), Hungary’s Day 5: Nyíregyháza to the Hungarian Art Nouveau. Head
most important religious centre; Hortobágy National Park due north again and you’ll
check out the mighty Basilica Moving eastwards onto the eventually reach the clean,
and the spooky crypt below. Great Plain, there’s outstanding shallow waters of Lake Balaton
church architecture on show (pp198–9). Enjoy a sundown
Day 3: Vác to Eger in Nyíregyháza (pp258–9). From stroll before a fish supper at
Having transferred to the here, go south to Debrecen one of the lakeside restaurants.
Danube’s east bank, enjoy the (pp254–5), Hungary’s second
Baroque splendour of Vác city and a Calvinist stronghold; Day 10: Lake Balaton
(p137), and the winsome enjoy, too, the city’s modern If the weather allows, hit the
National Botanical Gardens. thermal baths and fine The Votive Church in Szeged, with its twin beach in Siófok (p198), then
Take some time to explore the restaurants. Next, drive to 100-m (328-ft) towers hop aboard the ferry to the The most famed landmark in Pannonhalma, the Benedictine Pannonhalma Abbey
For practical information on travelling around Hungary, see pp306–9
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DISC OVERING HUNGAR Y 15
Day 12: The Őrség Region
to Sopron
From Balaton, head west to the
lush, thickly forested Őrség
Region (p163), dotted with pretty
villages. Turning north, take
some time to amble around
delightfully sleepy Kőszeg
(pp168–9), the most attractive
town in western Transdanubia.
Continue north to Sopron
(pp172–5), with, arguably,
Hungary’s finest medieval old
town; climb its Firewatch Tower
for superlative views.
Festetics Palace, housing a superb library and several unusual museums
Day 13: Győr and
which is distinguished by its northern shore. Disembark at Pannonhalma Abbey
magnificent blue stained-glass Tihany Peninsula (p206) and Leaving Sopron, visit the
dome. For a spot of post- walk up to exquisitely pretty Esterházy Palace in Fertőd (p171),
sightseeing refreshment, Tihany village. After lunch, work a Baroque and Rococo master-
seek out Klauzál square and its your way along the shoreline to piece; you may even catch a
buzzing outdoor cafés. Badacsony (p205), where you lunchtime concert in the room
can divide your afternoon where Haydn used to perform.
Day 8: Mohács to Pécs between the village itself and The next major town heading
Cross the Danube at Mohács Badacsony mountain, a stiff east is Győr (p178–9), stuffed
(pp186–7) for the Memorial Park, climb but well worth it for the with Baroque churches and
site of the famous Battle of marvellous lake views. mansions. It’s a short hop south
Mohács in 1526. The route west to the sombre elegance of
from here takes you along the Day 11: Keszthely and Héviz Pannonhalma Abbey (p180–81),
lovely wine road between The lake’s western shore with its awesome 330,000-
Villány (p187)and Siklós (p188), beckons this morning, and first volume Empire-style library.
where it’d be remiss not to up is Keszthely (pp200–201),
pause in one or two of the Balaton’s most charming town; Day 14: Tata to Lake Velence
many cellars along the way. take a guided tour of the stately Begin your last day in Tata
From here, take a sharp turn Festetics Palace (pp202–3), (p177), a delightful lakeside town
north to Pécs (pp190–91), as then stroll around its fragrant nestled around a moated castle.
vibrant a city as any in Hungary; rose gardens. A few miles out Then discover how some of the
one place not to miss is the of town, while away an hour or finest hand-painted porcelain
Csontváry Museum, containing so in Héviz (p204), the world’s in the world is made, touring
the oeuvre of one of Hungary’s second-largest thermal lake; the Herend factory with its
greatest painters. note that hiring a rubber ring tempting shop. From here,
is de rigueur. Returning south, strike out for Veszprém (p208–
Day 9: Szigetvár to Lake make for the reedy Kis- 9) and its beautifully preserved
Balaton Balaton (“Little Balaton”) Castle District. Ornithologists
Travel north to Szigetvár (p194) nature reserve (p198), where will appreciate a stop at bird
to view the town’s numerous you’ll encounter an impressive haven Lake Velence (p154) on
Turkish relics, before continuing range of migratory birds. the way back to Budapest.
to Kaposvár (p189), whose
most important sights revolve
around the work of József
Rippl-Rónai, the father of
Hungarian Art Nouveau. Head
due north again and you’ll
eventually reach the clean,
shallow waters of Lake Balaton
(pp198–9). Enjoy a sundown
stroll before a fish supper at
one of the lakeside restaurants.
Day 10: Lake Balaton
If the weather allows, hit the
beach in Siófok (p198), then
hop aboard the ferry to the The most famed landmark in Pannonhalma, the Benedictine Pannonhalma Abbey
012-015_EW_Hungary.indd 15 18/09/17 3:38 pm
16 INTRODUCING HUNGAR Y PUT TING HUNGAR Y ON THE M AP 17
Poprad
Poprad
Vlkolínec
Levoča
Putting Hungary on the Map Vlkolínec Levoča Prešov Nyzhni
Prešov
Nyzhni
The Republic of Hungary is one of the smallest states in Europe, V Vorotaorota
SLOVAKIAAKIA
with an area of 93,031 sq km (35,919 sq miles). From west to Banská SLOV
Banská
Bystrica
east it is 528 km (328 miles) at its widest point and from north Bystrica Košice UKRAINE
Košice
UKRAINE
Košice Airport
to south is just 268 km (167 miles). Hungary has borders with Košice Airport Užhorod
Užhorod
Slovakia to the north, Ukraine to the north east, Romania to Zvolen Sena
Zvolen
Sena
Mukacheve
the southeast, Serbia and Croatia to the south and Slovenia Mukacheve
and Austria to the west. Entirely landlocked, it is split into Lučenec Záhony
Záhony
Lučenec
three by the rivers Danube (Duna) and Tisa (Tisza), which
traverse it from north to south. Lake Balaton, the main Encs
Encs
geographical feature, is central Europe’s largest lake. Hron Šahy
Šahy
Miskolc
Salgótarján
Salgótarján Miskolc Tisa (Tisza)
Tisa (Tisza)
Hron
Mátészalka
Mátészalka
Nyíregyháza
Nyíregyháza
Eger
Eger
Wiener Neusiedler Danube (Duna) Vá
Neusiedler
Wiener
Vácc
Danube (Duna)
See
Neustadt
Neustadt See Gyöngyös
Gyöngyös
Satu
Győr
Sopron
Sopron Győr Satu
Tisa (Tisza)
Tisa (Tisza)
Mare
Mare
Gödöllő
T Tatabányaatabánya Gödöllő
AUSTRIA
AUSTRIA BUDAPEST Jászberény Debrecen
Debrecen
BUDAPEST
Jászberény
Rába
Rába See inset Debrecen
See inset
Debrecen
Airport
map below
map below Airport
Püspökladány
Püspökladány
Szombathely
Hartbergberg
Hart Szombathely
Pilis
Székesfehérvár Pilis
Székesfehérvár
Szolnok
Szolnok
HUNGAR YY
HUNGAR
V Veszprémeszprém
Kecskemét
Zalaegerszeg
Zalaegerszeg Lakee Kecskemét
Lak
Előszállás
Siofók
Balaton Siofók Előszállás Solt 0 km 50
Solt
Balaton
Körös Körös 0 miles 25
Balatonlelle
Hévíz-Balaton
Hévíz-Balaton Balatonlelle
Békéscsaba
SLOVENIA Airport Békéscsaba
SLOVENIA
Airport
Key
Maribor
Maribor
Nagykanizsa Motorway
Nagykanizsa
V
Véseése Motorway under construction
Kaposvár Szekszárd
Szekszárd
Kaposvár
V
Varaždinaraždin Major road
Szeged Railway
Szeged
CROA Arad International border
CROATIATIA
Arad
Baja
Pécs Baja Subotica
Pécs
Subotica
ROMANIA
Szigetvár ROMANIA
Szigetvár
Budapest and
Tisa
Tisa
Europe NORWAY Újpest Environs
Nor th SWEDEN ESTONIA Drava Óbuda
Drava
Sea LATVIA Újpalota
DENMARK LITHUANIA Angyalföld Árpádföld
Osijek
Osijek
SERBIA
REP. OF UNITED BELARUS SERBIA Zugló Sashalom
IRELAND KINGDOM NETH. POLAND Zugliget
GERMANY BUDAPEST
BELGIUM
CZECH Mátyásföld
REPUBLIC UKRAINE
CROA TIATIA
SLOVAKIA CROA Sasad
Zrenjanin
AUSTRIA Hungary Danube (Duna) Zrenjanin
Atlantic SWITZ. SLOV. Budaörs
Ocean FRANCE CROATIA ROMANIA Kelenföld Erzsébettelep
Danube (Duna)
Novi Sad
BOSNIA SERBIA Novi Sad
HERZ. Albertfalva Budapest
ITALY MONTEN. KOS. BULGARIA Kispest Ferenc Liszt
SP AIN ALBANIA MAC. Budafok Pesterzsébet Airport
PORTUGAL GREECE Danube Csepel
Belgrade
Belgrade
Pančevo
Pančevo Budatétény Királyerdó 0 km 4
Belgrade Nikola
Belgrade Nikola
ALGERIA T Teslaesla 4
MOROCCO TUNISIA 0 miles
Šabac
Šabac
For keys to symbols see back flap
Hun_016-017_Flash_map.indd 16 17/02/2015 13:00 Hun_016-017_Flash_map.indd 17 17/02/2015 13:00
PUT TING HUNGAR Y ON THE M AP 17
Poprad
Vlkolínec Levoča
Prešov Nyzhni
Vorota
Banská SLOVAKIA
Bystrica Košice UKRAINE
Košice Airport Užhorod
Zvolen Sena
Mukacheve
Lučenec Záhony
Encs
Šahy
Salgótarján Miskolc Tisa (Tisza)
Hron
Mátészalka
Nyíregyháza
Eger
Wiener Neusiedler Danube (Duna) Vác
Neustadt See Gyöngyös
Sopron Győr Satu
Tisa (Tisza)
Mare
Tatabánya Gödöllő
AUSTRIA BUDAPEST Jászberény Debrecen
Rába See inset Debrecen
map below Airport
Püspökladány
Hartberg Szombathely
Székesfehérvár Pilis
Szolnok
HUNGAR Y
Veszprém
Zalaegerszeg Lake Kecskemét
Balaton Siofók Előszállás Solt 0 km 50
Körös 0 miles 25
Hévíz-Balaton Balatonlelle
SLOVENIA Airport Békéscsaba
Key
Maribor
Nagykanizsa Motorway
Vése Motorway under construction
Kaposvár Szekszárd
Varaždin Major road
Szeged Railway
CROATIA Arad International border
Pécs Baja Subotica
Szigetvár ROMANIA
Budapest and
Tisa
Újpest Environs
Drava
Óbuda Újpalota
Angyalföld Árpádföld
Osijek
SERBIA Zugló Sashalom
Zugliget
BUDAPEST
Mátyásföld
CROA TIA Sasad
Zrenjanin
Budaörs
Danube (Duna)
Kelenföld Erzsébettelep
Novi Sad
Albertfalva Kispest Budapest
Ferenc Liszt
Budafok Pesterzsébet Airport
Belgrade Danube Csepel
Pančevo Budatétény Királyerdó 0 km 4
Belgrade Nikola
Tesla 4
Šabac 0 miles
Hun_016-017_Flash_map.indd 17 17/02/2015 13:00
A POR TR AIT OF HUNGAR Y 19
A PORTRAIT
OF HUNGARY
Situated in the heart of Europe, at the centre of the continent, Hungary is a
land with a rich history, a charming people and a culture that encompasses
music and art, as well as fertile wine regions. Outside the romantic capital,
Budapest, is a diverse landscape of lakes, forests and mountains, with
enticing medieval cities and historic castles.
On paper Hungary’s physical attractions Hungary has been at the crossroads of
look less than overwhelming; its tallest both trade and cultures for as long as the
peak reaches just over 1,000 m (3,280 ft) continent has been inhabited. Many of
and there is no sea coast. But it has got the country’s most enduring traditions
Balaton, Europe’s largest lake outside predate the arrival of the Magyars in the
Scandinavia and the nation’s very Carpathian Basin in AD 896, and these are
own “inland sea”, as well as the mighty upheld and preserved in the hundreds of
Danube river, which makes a dramatic lively festivals held in towns and villages
turn south before splitting Budapest in around the country each year.
two. Furthermore, there is the endless Hungary remains the land of the Magyars
Puszta, or Great Plain, where csikósok – nevertheless, a proud people and a nation
Hungary’s sturdy cowboys – still ride. that has spent more than a millennium both
In addition, there are the ancient castles, welcoming outsiders and fending off
fascinating churches and cathedrals, invaders. History has not always been kind
historic spa baths, and numerous to this land, but Hungary’s historical
cities that can boast some of the finest legacy is rich and very well preserved.
Gothic, Baroque and Secessionist (Art Since abandoning Communism in 1989,
Nouveau) architecture in Europe. the country has experienced rapid change
Hungary’s vast Great Plain, covering one-third of the country and famous for its highly skilled cowboys
Stained-glass window depicting St Leopold of Austria in Saint Stephen’s Basilica, Budapest
018-023_EW_Hungary.indd 18 18/09/17 3:39 pm 018-023_EW_Hungary.indd 19 18/09/17 3:39 pm
A POR TR AIT OF HUNGAR Y 19
A PORTRAIT
OF HUNGARY
Situated in the heart of Europe, at the centre of the continent, Hungary is a
land with a rich history, a charming people and a culture that encompasses
music and art, as well as fertile wine regions. Outside the romantic capital,
Budapest, is a diverse landscape of lakes, forests and mountains, with
enticing medieval cities and historic castles.
On paper Hungary’s physical attractions Hungary has been at the crossroads of
look less than overwhelming; its tallest both trade and cultures for as long as the
peak reaches just over 1,000 m (3,280 ft) continent has been inhabited. Many of
and there is no sea coast. But it has got the country’s most enduring traditions
Balaton, Europe’s largest lake outside predate the arrival of the Magyars in the
Scandinavia and the nation’s very Carpathian Basin in AD 896, and these are
own “inland sea”, as well as the mighty upheld and preserved in the hundreds of
Danube river, which makes a dramatic lively festivals held in towns and villages
turn south before splitting Budapest in around the country each year.
two. Furthermore, there is the endless Hungary remains the land of the Magyars
Puszta, or Great Plain, where csikósok – nevertheless, a proud people and a nation
Hungary’s sturdy cowboys – still ride. that has spent more than a millennium both
In addition, there are the ancient castles, welcoming outsiders and fending off
fascinating churches and cathedrals, invaders. History has not always been kind
historic spa baths, and numerous to this land, but Hungary’s historical
cities that can boast some of the finest legacy is rich and very well preserved.
Gothic, Baroque and Secessionist (Art Since abandoning Communism in 1989,
Nouveau) architecture in Europe. the country has experienced rapid change
Hungary’s vast Great Plain, covering one-third of the country and famous for its highly skilled cowboys
Stained-glass window depicting St Leopold of Austria in Saint Stephen’s Basilica, Budapest
018-023_EW_Hungary.indd 19 18/09/17 3:39 pm
20 INTRODUCING HUNGAR Y A POR TR AIT OF HUNGAR Y 21
10th century. Despite centuries of war, found, most strikingly in the mosque
occupation and the ever-present fear of at Pécs, now recycled as a Christian
being swallowed up by its neighbours, church, and in the towering minaret
Hungary and the Magyars survived at Eger, as well as in the handful of
and even flourished. Contemporary wonderfully preserved 16th-century
Hungarians remain extremely proud of thermal bath houses in Budapest.
their roots in the steppes of Asia, and Hungary also once had a thriving
they go to great lengths to preserve Jewish population, but it was deci-
their traditions. The dramatic displays mated during World War II, when
of horsemanship that take place on the most Jews were sent to concen tration
Puszta may be primarily for the benefit camps. Neglected synagogues still
of visitors but they also help retain a link found in many of Hungary’s cities
with the past, as does the enormous and towns are a testament to the
panoramic painting that fills the replica numbers who died.
tribal chieftain’s tent at Ópusztaszer, near An indoor pool at the Gellért Hotel and Baths complex Most Hungarians who profess any
Szeged, commemorating the arrival of the religion at all say they are Roman
The ruins of Csesznek castle, Bakony Mountains Magyars. The painting is dismissed by some that turn a sometimes difficult society, it Catholic (52 per cent). But religion in
as kitsch and unworthy of our time, yet it can be interpreted as aloofness, a desire Hungary has often been a question
and (often uneven) economic growth. plays an important role in preserving to keep “outsiders” (foreigners and other of expediency. Under King Stephen I
But while the scars of state socialism the spirit and memory of the nomadic Hungarians) at a distance. This is not Catholicism, as opposed to Orthodoxy,
remain – most notably in the bland Magyars. For better or worse, it is really the case; Hungarians simply need was introduced to the country and,
apartment blocks that encircle most Hungarian nationalism that has kept a while to make up their minds about while the majority of Hungarians were
cities – Hungarians are largely more the nation and the culture alive. people. There is also the language issue: quite happily Calvinists by the end of
affluent and optimistic than ever. Hungarian does not belong to the Indo- the 16th century, many donned a new
Culture and Society European language family, meaning mantle during the Counter-Reformation
National Origins Hungarians are very polite, formal people. that Russian and Hindi are closer to under the Habsburgs. As a result of
Most modern Hungarians trace their Older men still kiss women’s hands on English than Magyar is. It is part of the these swings, Hungarians tend to have
ancestry to the Magyars, an Asiatic people meeting and even close friends shake Finno-Ugric group, and due to millennia a prag matic view of religion and there is
of relatively obscure origins who arrived in hands when they get together. But while of separation it is not even mutually very little bigotry. Today, however, both
the region shortly before the start of the all this civility may help to oil the wheels intelligible with its closest cousins, Catholicism and Calvinism appear to be
Finnish and Estonian. As a result, visitors losing their influence as the country
will recognize few words, and trying to becomes more and more secular.
order a glass of vino in a bar gets you
nowhere; the word for wine is bor.
Few foreigners ever master Hungarian
completely, even after years of patient
study, and Hungarians themselves are
not particularly enthusiastic linguists.
English is, however, becoming more
popular as a second language, especially
among younger people in the cities.
The Magyars are not the only people
to have left their mark or helped form
modern Hungarian society. Germans
and Slovaks settled here as long ago as
the reign of King Stephen I (István) from
AD 1000 to 1038, and on the Great Plain
Balkan influences in the form of the
region’s lively markets can still be seen.
Young dancers in traditional folk costume performing at one of Hungary’s many festivals There are also Turkish footprints to be The symphony orchestra and state choir, Budapest
018-023_EW_Hungary.indd 20 18/09/17 3:39 pm 018-023_EW_Hungary.indd 21 14/11/2017 16:48
A POR TR AIT OF HUNGAR Y 21
found, most strikingly in the mosque
at Pécs, now recycled as a Christian
church, and in the towering minaret
at Eger, as well as in the handful of
wonderfully preserved 16th-century
thermal bath houses in Budapest.
Hungary also once had a thriving
Jewish population, but it was deci-
mated during World War II, when
most Jews were sent to concen tration
camps. Neglected synagogues still
found in many of Hungary’s cities
and towns are a testament to the
numbers who died.
An indoor pool at the Gellért Hotel and Baths complex Most Hungarians who profess any
religion at all say they are Roman
that turn a sometimes difficult society, it Catholic (52 per cent). But religion in
can be interpreted as aloofness, a desire Hungary has often been a question
to keep “outsiders” (foreigners and other of expediency. Under King Stephen I
Hungarians) at a distance. This is not Catholicism, as opposed to Orthodoxy,
really the case; Hungarians simply need was introduced to the country and,
a while to make up their minds about while the majority of Hungarians were
people. There is also the language issue: quite happily Calvinists by the end of
Hungarian does not belong to the Indo- the 16th century, many donned a new
European language family, meaning mantle during the Counter-Reformation
that Russian and Hindi are closer to under the Habsburgs. As a result of
English than Magyar is. It is part of the these swings, Hungarians tend to have
Finno-Ugric group, and due to millennia a prag matic view of religion and there is
of separation it is not even mutually very little bigotry. Today, however, both
intelligible with its closest cousins, Catholicism and Calvinism appear to be
Finnish and Estonian. As a result, visitors losing their influence as the country
will recognize few words, and trying to becomes more and more secular.
order a glass of vino in a bar gets you
nowhere; the word for wine is bor.
Few foreigners ever master Hungarian
completely, even after years of patient
study, and Hungarians themselves are
not particularly enthusiastic linguists.
English is, however, becoming more
popular as a second language, especially
among younger people in the cities.
The Magyars are not the only people
to have left their mark or helped form
modern Hungarian society. Germans
and Slovaks settled here as long ago as
the reign of King Stephen I (István) from
AD 1000 to 1038, and on the Great Plain
Balkan influences in the form of the
region’s lively markets can still be seen.
There are also Turkish footprints to be The symphony orchestra and state choir, Budapest
018-023_EW_Hungary.indd 21 14/11/2017 16:48
22 INTRODUCING HUNGAR Y A POR TR AIT OF HUNGAR Y 23
austerity measures taken by Gyurcsány’s
government were nearly as unpopular
as his style. Finally, in 2009, Gyurcsány
resigned, and was replaced by his
economic minister, Gordon Bajnai. Despite
Bajnai’s relative economic successes, in the
subsequent elections of 2010, the Viktor
Orbán-led Fidesz – Hungarian Civic Alliance
– won with a landslide, taking two-thirds of
the seats in Parliament. Orbán used this
supermajority to change virtually all
aspects of life in Hungary, including the
country’s constitution, election and judicial
system. The Orbán government introduced
A market stall selling fresh and dried produce unconventional new taxes and economic
regulations, harshly criticized both in
Politics and Economics Hungary and internationally as probing the
The social dislocation inherent in some limits of democracy and as being a means A grape-picker with grapes ready for making into Tokaji wine
post-Soviet societies has been avoided of playing economic power into the hands
by an often shaky but relatively steady of loyal friends. But despite this, in 2014 food. With jobs becoming rare and hopes towns and villages owe everything to
consensus among the political parties as Fidesz again won all parliamentary, fading away, there is a growing and Budapest. The imperial majesty of the
to what Hungary needed in the wake of municipal and European Parliament unprecedented new tendency for capital is captivating but the rest of
Communism’s elections with a landslide, maintaining its Hungarians to leave the country. Hungary also has a wealth of history,
collapse. A top two-thirds majority in Parliament. But Hungary does have a long history of character and architecture to offer. Several
priority was Economically Hungary is in the doldrums, innovation and discovery, and boasts an ongoing projects and develop ment
membership in its dream of adopting the euro any time enviable list of world-class scientists, programmes – many co-founded by the
the EU, for even soon not even on the agenda. In 2014, engineers and inventors. Vitamin C, the EU – address this issue, and the Hungary
the former the average monthly net salary in Hungary biro, the safety match – not to mention outside of Budapest is developing fast.
Communists who was less than than 500 euros, while the world-renowned Rubik’s Cube – all Yet central Hungary, with Budapest at
initially opposed Hungary levies a world-record 27 per cent originated here. Hungarians continue to its heart, is still home to one third of the
the idea realized VAT on even basic commodities like tread new paths, and since 1989 Hungary population and produces nearly half of
that to remain has developed as a centre of scientific the country’s GDP.
outside Europe research; indeed, governments of all
Sunflowers, cultivated throughout would be ruinous political persuasions have promoted their
the Hungarian countryside both politically country as a knowledge-based economy.
and economically.
However, the economy was ailing and Modern Life
living standards started to deteriorate. In If modern Hungary has one drawback,
2006, a controversial speech given by the though, it is the dependence on the
newly re-elected Prime Minister Ferenc capital for everything. To borrow an old
Gyurcsány to his inner party circles was French expression about Paris, many
leaked. In it he admitted they had been people here believe that “when Budapest
lying about the state of the economy and sneezes, Hungary catches cold”. Although
what measures were to be taken after the the country’s geography and history may
elections, and riots broke out in the streets dictate in some ways that all roads lead
of Budapest. Although demanded by to Budapest, it is often frustrating when
many, even within his government the best way of travelling from one place
coalition, Gyurcsány did not resign. Soon to another is via the capital. Provincial
afterwards the global financial crisis hit Hungarians find it particularly galling and
Hungary’s already weak economy. The The ornate interior of a Budapest coffee house a constant reminder that their own cities, Outdoor dining at one of Szentendre’s restaurants
018-023_EW_Hungary.indd 22 18/09/17 3:39 pm 018-023_EW_Hungary.indd 23 18/09/17 3:39 pm
A POR TR AIT OF HUNGAR Y 23
A grape-picker with grapes ready for making into Tokaji wine
food. With jobs becoming rare and hopes towns and villages owe everything to
fading away, there is a growing and Budapest. The imperial majesty of the
unprecedented new tendency for capital is captivating but the rest of
Hungarians to leave the country. Hungary also has a wealth of history,
But Hungary does have a long history of character and architecture to offer. Several
innovation and discovery, and boasts an ongoing projects and develop ment
enviable list of world-class scientists, programmes – many co-founded by the
engineers and inventors. Vitamin C, the EU – address this issue, and the Hungary
biro, the safety match – not to mention outside of Budapest is developing fast.
the world-renowned Rubik’s Cube – all Yet central Hungary, with Budapest at
originated here. Hungarians continue to its heart, is still home to one third of the
tread new paths, and since 1989 Hungary population and produces nearly half of
has developed as a centre of scientific the country’s GDP.
research; indeed, governments of all
political persuasions have promoted their
country as a knowledge-based economy.
Modern Life
If modern Hungary has one drawback,
though, it is the dependence on the
capital for everything. To borrow an old
French expression about Paris, many
people here believe that “when Budapest
sneezes, Hungary catches cold”. Although
the country’s geography and history may
dictate in some ways that all roads lead
to Budapest, it is often frustrating when
the best way of travelling from one place
to another is via the capital. Provincial
Hungarians find it particularly galling and
a constant reminder that their own cities, Outdoor dining at one of Szentendre’s restaurants
018-023_EW_Hungary.indd 23 18/09/17 3:39 pm
24 INTRODUCING HUNGAR Y A POR TR AIT OF HUNGAR Y 25
Landscape and Wildlife of Hungary Hungarian Conservation
The Great Plain, a rich and fertile land and one of the first in Magyars were once considered one of the great hunting
Europe to be cultivated, covers almost half of Hungary. It is peoples of Europe, but in recent times their efforts have
traversed by two major rivers: the Tisa (Tisza) in the east, been directed into conservation. As a result, all sorts of
species that were once teetering on the brink of extinction
and the majestic Danube (Duna) in the west. The gentle but are being preserved. Deer, wild boar, wolves and lynxes are
scenic mountains of the Mátra range mark the nation’s again commonly spotted in the Northern Mountains. The
northern borders, while the forests of Transdanubia and the National Forest Plantation Programme of 1997 has enhanced
great lakes of Balaton and Fertő enhance what is – for a the spread of forests and the saving of vulnerable wild
flowers. Hungary’s wetlands are a preferred destination for
relatively small country – a varied and attractive landscape. The Danube river, Hungary’s defining migrating birds and the protection of their habitat has The lynx, inhabitant of the Northern
natural feature Mountains of Hungary
become a source of national pride.
The Great Plain Lakes and Rivers
The Northern Mountains Forests
Grassland covers 12 per cent of Hungary, and The Danube is the greater river, but for many
almost all of it is in the treeless Great Plain. Hungarians the Tisza river is more important. Three different mountain ranges, the Mátra, A fifth of Hungary is covered in forest, and this
Modern irrigation has enabled much of the All of the country’s other rivers are tributaries Bükk and Zemplén, are usually grouped is set to increase by 2035. The country’s existing
original plain to become agricultural land, but of these two. Hungary’s abundance of lakes together as the Northern Mountains. As the forests, of which the main areas are the Northern
in the protected areas of Hortobágy and makes it a favoured destination of migrating only alpine region in Hungary, they are home Mountains, the Buda Hills (see p115) and the
Kiskunság the pale green vegetation of the birds. In the northwest, Lake Fertő is also to some unique species. In the Mátra range, Bakony Forest (see pp160–61) are increasingly
region is preserved. popular with bird-watchers. the country’s highest peaks reach a meagre protected by conservationist legislation.
height of 1,015 m (3,330 ft).
Herds of horses define The Dolomite flax, once
the Great Plain and are The Great Bustard is Europe’s Brown bears are Hungary’s common national
regarded as a sacred largest land bird, with males commonly found flower, survives today only in
part of the nation’s weighing up to 14 kg (31 lb). It is in the Carpathian the forests of the Buda Hills
soul. Hungarians have found throughout Hungary and arc that stretches around the capital. Both the
traditionally made great is especially common around the from northern flower and its habitat are
horsemen and cowboys Tisza lake. Catching sight of its Hungary to fiercely protected.
or csikósok still exist. intricate spring courtship ritual is Romania.
a rare treat for bird-watchers.
Horned eagle owls are one Lesser purple butterflies emerge
Racka sheep are bred for their of the largest owl species, often from a deep green chrysalis at the
milk, wool and sometimes The Hungarian iris measuring 70 cm (28 in) in beginning of every July.
their meat, and are height. Superb predators, they Widespread in forested
unique to the Great or Iris variegata is fond feed mostly on rodents and areas, they spend much
of damp soil and
Plain region of Hungary. marshland and thrives rabbits, though they occasionally of their time on
They are characterized on the floodplains devour game birds. treetops defending
by their long, thin, their territory against
corkscrew-like horns. of the Danube. unwelcome rivals.
Night herons are Great spotted
Mangalica pigs particularly active in the evening, woodpeckers are a The black stork stands
are hairy, almost when they leave their woodland frequent sight in the about 1 m (3 ft) tall. Mainly
sheep-like, and nests to feed. Thick-billed, and with gardens, parks and black, it has a white
are bred for their shorter legs than typical herons, the woodlands of northern spot on its front and a
meat. Look out for birds are most commonly found in Hungary. They are one of red bill and legs. This
sausages made from Northern Transdanubia, close to nine woodpecker species long-distance migrant
Mangalica pork. the Danube river. native to the country. winters in southern Africa.
Hun_24-25_ED084_FEAT.indd 24 17/02/2015 12:47 Hun_24-25_ED084_FEAT.indd 25 17/02/2015 12:47
A POR TR AIT OF HUNGAR Y 25
Hungarian Conservation
Magyars were once considered one of the great hunting
peoples of Europe, but in recent times their efforts have
been directed into conservation. As a result, all sorts of
species that were once teetering on the brink of extinction
are being preserved. Deer, wild boar, wolves and lynxes are
again commonly spotted in the Northern Mountains. The
National Forest Plantation Programme of 1997 has enhanced
the spread of forests and the saving of vulnerable wild
flowers. Hungary’s wetlands are a preferred destination for
migrating birds and the protection of their habitat has The lynx, inhabitant of the Northern
become a source of national pride. Mountains of Hungary
The Northern Mountains Forests
Three different mountain ranges, the Mátra, A fifth of Hungary is covered in forest, and this
Bükk and Zemplén, are usually grouped is set to increase by 2035. The country’s existing
together as the Northern Mountains. As the forests, of which the main areas are the Northern
only alpine region in Hungary, they are home Mountains, the Buda Hills (see p115) and the
to some unique species. In the Mátra range, Bakony Forest (see pp160–61) are increasingly
the country’s highest peaks reach a meagre protected by conservationist legislation.
height of 1,015 m (3,330 ft).
Brown bears are The Dolomite flax, once
commonly found Hungary’s common national
in the Carpathian flower, survives today only in
arc that stretches the forests of the Buda Hills
from northern around the capital. Both the
Hungary to flower and its habitat are
Romania. fiercely protected.
Horned eagle owls are one Lesser purple butterflies emerge
of the largest owl species, often from a deep green chrysalis at the
measuring 70 cm (28 in) in beginning of every July.
height. Superb predators, they Widespread in forested
feed mostly on rodents and
rabbits, though they occasionally areas, they spend much
devour game birds. of their time on
treetops defending
their territory against
unwelcome rivals.
Great spotted
woodpeckers are a The black stork stands
frequent sight in the about 1 m (3 ft) tall. Mainly
gardens, parks and black, it has a white
woodlands of northern spot on its front and a
Hungary. They are one of red bill and legs. This
nine woodpecker species long-distance migrant
native to the country. winters in southern Africa.
Hun_24-25_ED084_FEAT.indd 25 17/02/2015 12:47
26 INTRODUCING HUNGAR Y A POR TR AIT OF HUNGAR Y 27
Thermal Springs and Baths Best Thermal Baths Outdoor Pools
are open all year
round, even in the
Hungary has been one of Europe’s great spa destinations • Aquaticum see p255 depths of winter.
for hundreds of years. Natural hot springs pour out over • Bükfürdő see p167 Taking a bath in the
• Gellért Hotel and Baths
80 million litres (18 million gallons) of richly mineralized Complex see pp74–5 steaming water when
water every day. There are more than 1,300 hot springs • Hajdúszoboszló the air temperature is
in the country, of which 300 are used for bathing and Medicinal Spa see p256 below zero is a unique
experience. In summer,
medicinal purposes. A third of these are in Budapest, which • Lake Hévíz see p204 the outdoor pools can
• Miskolctapolca see p229
has the greatest concentration of natural springs. Baths • Nagyatád see p194 get very busy.
have existed since Roman times but it was the Turks who • Parádfürdő see p217
exploited the natural waters for healing all sorts of ailments. • Sárvár Spa see p167
• Széchenyi Baths see p111
Unisex changing rooms
make the baths ideal for
A Visit to the Baths families. An attendant The terrace at the rear
The Széchenyi Baths complex in provides a locker key and of Széchenyi Baths
towel, and expects a tip.
serves refreshing cold
Budapest (illustrated here) is in drinks to bathers.
many ways the archetypal classic
Hungarian bathhouse, from the The ticket office
displays every
complicated pricing system to the conceivable price on
vast network of indoor and outdoor a board.
baths. Built on the site of a thermal
spring first discovered in 1879,
Széchenyi is as popular with locals Chess being played is a
as it is with visitors. common sight at baths in
Hungary. Matches take place
at outdoor pools all year
round, even when there is
snow on the ground.
Saunas and steam rooms
are used by bathers after taking
a hot bath, before bathing
again in cooler water.
The Main Entrance
and grandiose exterior of the
Széchenyi Baths are splendid
examples of Neo-Baroque
architecture. The complex,
designed by Győző Cziegler
and Ede Dvorzsák, was
constructed in 1909–13.
Wellness Hotels
Wellness centres, dedicated to finding a healthy balance of mind
and body, have had a long history in Hungary, ever since, in fact,
the discovery of the healing properties of thermal waters. While
the roots of the wellness movement lie in alternative medicine,
modern wellness centres are based around large, often luxury
bathhouses, which, besides thermal spas, offer a wide range of The spacious and At pools used for
medical, dietary and even psychiatric treatments. Massage, mud elegant interior medicinal purposes
packs and electrotherapy may also be available. Some of the best of the Széchenyi water temperatures are
wellness hotels have golf courses attached, such as the Greenfield entrance hall, like that of clearly displayed at the edge
Hotel at Bükfürdő (see p293). Arthritis, rheumatism and skin disorders many baths in Hungary, of the pool. The hotter the
are just a few of the ailments that wellness centres claim to cure, and Bathing in the healing waters of a is in stark contrast to the water, it is said, the stronger
as such attract a large number of visitors who return year after year. heated outdoor pool changing rooms, which its healing powers.
can be a little cramped.
Hun_026-027_FEAT.indd 26 17/02/2015 13:00 Hun_026-027_FEAT.indd 27 17/02/2015 13:00
A POR TR AIT OF HUNGAR Y 27
Outdoor Pools
are open all year
round, even in the
depths of winter.
Taking a bath in the
steaming water when
the air temperature is
below zero is a unique
experience. In summer,
the outdoor pools can
get very busy.
The terrace at the rear
of Széchenyi Baths
serves refreshing cold
drinks to bathers.
Chess being played is a
common sight at baths in
Hungary. Matches take place
at outdoor pools all year
round, even when there is
snow on the ground.
Saunas and steam rooms
are used by bathers after taking
a hot bath, before bathing
again in cooler water.
At pools used for
The spacious and medicinal purposes
elegant interior water temperatures are
of the Széchenyi clearly displayed at the edge
entrance hall, like that of of the pool. The hotter the
many baths in Hungary, water, it is said, the stronger
is in stark contrast to the its healing powers.
changing rooms, which
can be a little cramped.
Hun_026-027_FEAT.indd 27 17/02/2015 13:00
28 INTRODUCING HUNGAR Y A POR TR AIT OF HUNGAR Y 29
Hungarian Architecture Renaissance and Baroque (1450–1800)
It is difficult to separate the development of Hungarian architecture Renaissance architecture was a successful attempt to incorporate the grandeur of Rome into
from the country’s history. Of the Romanesque and Gothic constructions the contemporary world. Led by the Italians Brunelleschi and Bramante, the concept of art for art’s
built during the reign of the first Magyar kings, little survived the sake became paramount, with buildings being designed around their
Mongol invasion of the 13th century. Of the Renaissance era, only façades. In Hungary the movement found royal favour from King Mátyás,
who was greatly influenced by his Italian wife, Beatrice. The Hungarian
remnants and reconstructions remain, though there is more of the Renaissance was brought to an end by the Turks, who destroyed many
Baroque period to admire. The Secession (the struggle for a national of its greatest achievements.
style at the end of the 19th century) mirrored the nation’s political fight After they were expelled from
for independence. After World War II, Soviet utilitarianism took over, Budapest’s Secession Post Hungary in 1690, the Baroque
and surrounded fine cities with its unsightly apartment blocks. Office Savings Bank era began, characterized by
grand designs which reflected
Sarospatak Castle’s a shift away from the proto-
Roman (AD 200–450) 15th-century humanism of the Renaissance.
Aquincum, originally a heavily fortified military Renaissance tower Most Baroque mansions were
The first master builders in Hungary were the base, was home to as many as 40,000 people in its is a copy of Palazzo built to showcase the wealth The elaborate Bishop’s Palace in Szekes-
Romans, much of whose capital, Aquincum, in heyday at the end of the 2nd century. Vecchio in Florence. of their patrons. fehérvár is representative of Baroque style.
the suburbs of present-day Budapest, survives.
Amphitheatres, fortifications and giant statues Heavy granite
were erected making use of opus cimenticum stone was used in The use of stone to reinforce Neo-Classical (1800–90) Secession (1890–1930)
the construction of
(concrete), a Roman invention that enabled round arches. concrete walls lent an aesthetic In Hungary, the Neo-Classical movement was The Secessionist era saw an ornamental style
quality to Roman constructions.
great loads to be supported by giant pillars. Ceramic tiles were also used to considered a statement of intent: that this of art (also known as Art Nouveau) flourish
decorate concrete walls. was a heroic nation worthy of statehood. in Europe at the end of the 19th century. In
The National Museum (see pp102–3) and the architecture, the movement initially made use
Opera House (see pp93–3) were built with of elaborate ironwork, tiles and bright colours
independence to decorate linear buildings, while in the latter
in mind. part of the Secession period ever more daring
architects created curving, bulbous and
organic constructions.
Colonnades were often used to
mask heavy, load-bearing walls.
Romanesque and Gothic (1000–1450)
Also referred to as Norman architecture, the Romanesque period was one of the most energetic
phases of church building ever witnessed in Europe. On becoming king of Hungary, István ordered
a church to be built for every 10 villages in the land. Many followed the same construction model,
with a large single nave supported by round arches known as piers – the medieval equivalent of Budapest’s National Museum, built to signify The Cifra Palota, Kecskemét, is typical of
Roman columns. Towers did not become commonplace until the 12th century, as superior masonry national consciousness, is where Sándor Petőfi read Secession design, with a curved, tiled roof, ironwork
facilitated their construction. Romanesque façades were usually simple, and it was only as architects National Song and sparked the 1848 Revolution. balconies and intricate arabesque decoration.
became more confident in the 13th century that more decorative elements such as rose and
stained-glass windows, flying buttresses and gargoyles appeared, creating a new style that would Utilitarian (1950–90)
become known as Gothic. The 13th-century church at Ják, with its exquisite porta speciosa
(a stepped portal of rounded, barrel and pointed arches) is one of the finest remaining examples At the end of World War II, art was relegated to
of medieval architecture in Europe, and marks the transition from Romanesque style to Gothic. a distant second behind necessity, as Hungary’s
Communist regime set about constructing Prefabrication
hundreds of thousands of new homes on the facilitated the
outskirts of the country’s cities. Designed to swift building
The tower is four-sided at its base accommodate the workers taking part in of many
and octagonal at the top. Hungary’s massive industrialization programme, apartment
vast estates of identical high-rise apartment blocks.
The portal was Mátyás Church is considered blocks were rapidly built. Though generally very
recreated using to be a Gothic masterpiece. small and by no means luxurious, the apartments Access to
fragments of all came with central heating, running water apartments
the original. However, little of what was often
remains today is part and electricity, which was a first for many via a long
of the 14th-century of the occupants who were allocated one. balcony.
original, having
been extensively
rebuilt in Neo- Built in haste and at low cost, most Communist-
Gothic style in Gothic arches precede cross-ribbed era apartment blocks are still in excellent condition,
the 1880s. vaults in Esztergom Cathedral. though they are somewhat bleak-looking.
Hun_028-029_FEAT.indd 28 17/02/2015 13:00 Hun_028-029_FEAT.indd 29 17/02/2015 13:00
A POR TR AIT OF HUNGAR Y 29
Renaissance and Baroque (1450–1800)
Renaissance architecture was a successful attempt to incorporate the grandeur of Rome into
the contemporary world. Led by the Italians Brunelleschi and Bramante, the concept of art for art’s
sake became paramount, with buildings being designed around their
façades. In Hungary the movement found royal favour from King Mátyás,
who was greatly influenced by his Italian wife, Beatrice. The Hungarian
Renaissance was brought to an end by the Turks, who destroyed many
of its greatest achievements.
After they were expelled from
Hungary in 1690, the Baroque
era began, characterized by
grand designs which reflected
Sarospatak Castle’s a shift away from the proto-
15th-century humanism of the Renaissance.
Renaissance tower Most Baroque mansions were
is a copy of Palazzo built to showcase the wealth The elaborate Bishop’s Palace in Szekes-
Vecchio in Florence. of their patrons. fehérvár is representative of Baroque style.
Neo-Classical (1800–90) Secession (1890–1930)
In Hungary, the Neo-Classical movement was The Secessionist era saw an ornamental style
considered a statement of intent: that this of art (also known as Art Nouveau) flourish
was a heroic nation worthy of statehood. in Europe at the end of the 19th century. In
The National Museum (see pp102–3) and the architecture, the movement initially made use
Opera House (see pp93–3) were built with of elaborate ironwork, tiles and bright colours
independence to decorate linear buildings, while in the latter
in mind. part of the Secession period ever more daring
architects created curving, bulbous and
organic constructions.
Budapest’s National Museum, built to signify The Cifra Palota, Kecskemét, is typical of
national consciousness, is where Sándor Petőfi read Secession design, with a curved, tiled roof, ironwork
National Song and sparked the 1848 Revolution. balconies and intricate arabesque decoration.
Utilitarian (1950–90)
At the end of World War II, art was relegated to
a distant second behind necessity, as Hungary’s
Communist regime set about constructing Prefabrication
hundreds of thousands of new homes on the facilitated the
outskirts of the country’s cities. Designed to swift building
accommodate the workers taking part in of many
Hungary’s massive industrialization programme, apartment
blocks.
vast estates of identical high-rise apartment
blocks were rapidly built. Though generally very
small and by no means luxurious, the apartments Access to
all came with central heating, running water apartments
and electricity, which was a first for many was often
of the occupants who were allocated one. via a long
balcony.
Built in haste and at low cost, most Communist-
era apartment blocks are still in excellent condition,
though they are somewhat bleak-looking.
Hun_028-029_FEAT.indd 29 17/02/2015 13:00
30 INTRODUCING HUNGAR Y A POR TR AIT OF HUNGAR Y 31
Famous Hungarians Hungary, so far, has bagged
four Oscars: The Fly (1980), a
For a relatively small nation, a surprisingly large number short animation film by Ferenc
of Hungarians have made a name for themselves Rúfusz; Mephisto (1981), by
worldwide. They include inventor László Bíró, who István Szabó, and András
Nemes-Jeles’ Son of Saul (2016)
gave the world the ballpoint pen, and composer both won Best Foreign
Ferenc Liszt, a Hungarian so famous that it was once Language Film; and Kristóf
quipped “he must be Austrian”. His namesake, the Deák’s 2017 short film, Sing.
late Ferenc Puskás, remains the country’s greatest Hungarian visual artists have
sports star, revered by football fans. In recent years, often attracted international Ferenc Puskás, the greatest Hungarian footballer of all time
numerous Hungarian sports stars, inventors, actors Tony Curtis playing escapologist Harry acclaim, from architects Miklós goals against England at for her country, winning five
Ybl and Imre Steindl – respon-
and artists have received international acclaim. Houdini in the 1953 film sible for Budapest’s stunning Wembley in 1953 were crucial Olympic gold medals between
Opera House (see pp92–3) and to his side’s 6–3 win – only the 1988 and 1996.
Music and Literature sensational international career. Film and Visual Arts Parliament (see pp84–5) second time England had ever László Papp was the first
She regularly headlines at the respectively – to the trio of lost on home soil. Puskás was boxer to win gold medals at
In music, the most prominent opera houses of London and Hollywood has been a Secessionist painters Lajos on a tour of Spain with Honvéd three consecutive Olympic
Hungarian is Ferenc (Franz) New York and often performed successful stamping ground Gulácsy, János Vaszary and football club during the 1956 Games, a feat he achieved from
Liszt, born in 1811. His under the baton of Budapest- for Hungarians since before the József Rippl-Rónai, whose revolution (see p49) and refused 1948 to 1956. In 1965 Papp
repertoire of beautiful yet born Sir Georg Solti, one of the advent of the talking picture. works inspired a generation of to go back to Hungary. He was on the verge of competing
technically complicated greatest operatic conductors Indeed, two of the great Post-Impressionists worldwide. signed to Real Madrid, and led for the world middleweight
melodies betray his first of the 20th century. pioneers of cinema were both More latterly, contemporary them to three European Cup title when the Communist
love: playing the piano. Hungarian literature born and raised in Budapest. painters Margit Anna, Lajos triumphs. He became a government revoked his permit
While Liszt is regarded has barely made an Adolph Zukor founded Sváby, Tibor Palkó and Zoltán Spanish national and played to travel abroad, thus
by most Hungarians impression on the Paramount Pictures and Szabó have been making waves a number of international ending his career.
as a composer world, a result of its produced the first full-length on the international art scene. matches for Spain. Hungary has a long
first and foremost, often impenetrable feature film, The Prisoner of Before football brought history of producing
outside Hungary he language. The 19th- Zenda (1937), and Vilmos Fried Sport Hungary to the world’s chess champions.
is known simply as century poets Mihály fled Hungary for Hollywood, attention, athlete The most recent
the greatest pianist Vörösmarty and changed his name to William For a period in the 1950s Alfréd Hajós had is the prodigious
of all time. After Sándor Petőfi are Fox and founded Fox Studios. Hungary was the greatest been the country’s Judit Polgár, who,
spending much celebrated more Silver-screen heroes Johnny footballing nation on earth, finest sporting aged 15, became a
of his life touring Soprano Éva Márton for their activity as Weissmuller, the first cinematic although it never actually won ambassador. Hajós grandmaster in
France, Germany, revolutionaries than Tarzan; Béla Lugosi, the original the World Cup. Defeat in the won Hungary’s Chess champion 1982. Polgár is the
Austria and Britain, Liszt for their poetry. In the 20th screen Dracula; and Leslie 1954 final to West Germany first ever modern Judit Polgár highest-rated female
retired at the age of 50 to century, while Hungarian-born Howard, whose most renowned remains a national tragedy. Olympic gold medal chess player in the
Rome, where he joined the novelist Imre Kertész received role was his portrayal of Ashley The team captain was the for swimming at the 1908 world (a title once held by
Franciscan order and spent the Nobel prize for literature in Wilkes in Gone with the Wind legendary Ferenc Puskás, Olympic Games in London. her sister, Zsuzsa). She beat
the rest of his life teaching 2002, only Ferenc Molnár, whose (1939) – all had Hungarian nicknamed “the Galloping Several swimming pools Anatoly Karpov in a speed-
the piano. He died in 1896, work Liliom (1909) was adapted roots to one degree or another. Major”. Officially an amateur, and thermal baths in Hungary chess tournament in 1992, an
while in Germany attending into the musical Carousel So too did the late Hollywood he had the rank of major in the are named after him. More achievement that makes her
the Bayreuth Music Festival. (1945), has achieved anything legend Tony Curtis. One of Hungarian army and possessed recently, Krisztina Egerszegi the only female ever to defeat
Liszt was succeeded as resembling worldwide fame. Curtis’s best remembered a prolific left foot. His three has excelled in swimming a reigning world champion.
Hungary’s finest musician by films is Houdini (1953), a
a man whom he inspired from biopic of another Hungarian, Hungarian Inventors
afar: Béla Bartók. Born in 1881, escapologist Harry Houdini.
Bartók was one of the founders Arguably the greatest It is perhaps in science and technology that Hungarians have
of ethnomusicology, the study Hungarian in Hollywood, most excelled, and the ballpoint pen (invented in 1938) is probably
of the ethnography of music, however, was Manó Kertész the best known of their inventions. Known as the biro, the pen
as well as being a pianist and Kaminer, who, under the was named after its inventor, László Bíró. A more controversial
composer. Less celebrated anglicized name Michael inventor was John von Neumann, a child genius who worked
internationally is the work of Curtiz, directed the legendary as a binary theoretician before becoming a member of the
Ferenc Erkel, who wrote Bánk Casablanca (1942), a film in US government’s atomic bomb programme, the Manhattan
Project. The mathematical projections von Neumann computed
Bán (1861), Hungary’s rarely which Peter Lorre, master of the with another Hungarian, Edward Teller, were crucial in the
performed national opera. It sinister and another Hungarian, development of the hydrogen bomb. A third project member,
was made into a film in 2002, played a film-stealing cameo. John Kemény, was co-inventor of BASIC computer language.
and featured Éva Márton, Less celebrated for their work, Other Hungarian inventors include Tivadar Puskás, who built
Hungary’s highly acclaimed but notorious for their The colourful Rubik’s Cube puzzle, the first European telephone exchange, and Ernő Rubik, who
soprano. Márton achieved fame countless marriages to leading renowned the world over in 1977 gave the world the fiendish Rubik’s Cube.
at Budapest’s State Opera in the Ferenc Molnár (1878-1952), Hungary’s Hollywood men, are Zsa Zsa
1970s before embarking on a best-known novelist Gábor and her late sister, Éva.
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A POR TR AIT OF HUNGAR Y 31
Hungary, so far, has bagged
four Oscars: The Fly (1980), a
short animation film by Ferenc
Rúfusz; Mephisto (1981), by
István Szabó, and András
Nemes-Jeles’ Son of Saul (2016)
both won Best Foreign
Language Film; and Kristóf
Deák’s 2017 short film, Sing.
Hungarian visual artists have
often attracted international Ferenc Puskás, the greatest Hungarian footballer of all time
acclaim, from architects Miklós
Ybl and Imre Steindl – respon- goals against England at for her country, winning five
sible for Budapest’s stunning Wembley in 1953 were crucial Olympic gold medals between
Opera House (see pp92–3) and to his side’s 6–3 win – only the 1988 and 1996.
Parliament (see pp84–5) second time England had ever László Papp was the first
respectively – to the trio of lost on home soil. Puskás was boxer to win gold medals at
Secessionist painters Lajos on a tour of Spain with Honvéd three consecutive Olympic
Gulácsy, János Vaszary and football club during the 1956 Games, a feat he achieved from
József Rippl-Rónai, whose revolution (see p49) and refused 1948 to 1956. In 1965 Papp
works inspired a generation of to go back to Hungary. He was on the verge of competing
Post-Impressionists worldwide. signed to Real Madrid, and led for the world middleweight
More latterly, contemporary them to three European Cup title when the Communist
painters Margit Anna, Lajos triumphs. He became a government revoked his permit
Sváby, Tibor Palkó and Zoltán Spanish national and played to travel abroad, thus
Szabó have been making waves a number of international ending his career.
on the international art scene. matches for Spain. Hungary has a long
Before football brought history of producing
Sport Hungary to the world’s chess champions.
attention, athlete The most recent
For a period in the 1950s Alfréd Hajós had is the prodigious
Hungary was the greatest been the country’s Judit Polgár, who,
footballing nation on earth, finest sporting aged 15, became a
although it never actually won ambassador. Hajós grandmaster in
the World Cup. Defeat in the won Hungary’s Chess champion 1982. Polgár is the
1954 final to West Germany first ever modern Judit Polgár highest-rated female
remains a national tragedy. Olympic gold medal chess player in the
The team captain was the for swimming at the 1908 world (a title once held by
legendary Ferenc Puskás, Olympic Games in London. her sister, Zsuzsa). She beat
nicknamed “the Galloping Several swimming pools Anatoly Karpov in a speed-
Major”. Officially an amateur, and thermal baths in Hungary chess tournament in 1992, an
he had the rank of major in the are named after him. More achievement that makes her
Hungarian army and possessed recently, Krisztina Egerszegi the only female ever to defeat
a prolific left foot. His three has excelled in swimming a reigning world champion.
Hungarian Inventors
It is perhaps in science and technology that Hungarians have
most excelled, and the ballpoint pen (invented in 1938) is probably
the best known of their inventions. Known as the biro, the pen
was named after its inventor, László Bíró. A more controversial
inventor was John von Neumann, a child genius who worked
as a binary theoretician before becoming a member of the
US government’s atomic bomb programme, the Manhattan
Project. The mathematical projections von Neumann computed
with another Hungarian, Edward Teller, were crucial in the
development of the hydrogen bomb. A third project member,
John Kemény, was co-inventor of BASIC computer language.
Other Hungarian inventors include Tivadar Puskás, who built
The colourful Rubik’s Cube puzzle, the first European telephone exchange, and Ernő Rubik, who
renowned the world over in 1977 gave the world the fiendish Rubik’s Cube.
030-031_EW_Hungary.indd 31 18/09/17 3:39 pm
32 INTRODUCING HUNGAR Y A POR TR AIT OF HUNGAR Y 33
The Wines of Hungary number of puttony (units denoting the Key to Wine Regions
Tokaji Aszú wine is defined by the
level of sugar in the wine) added per Sopron
With warm, dry summers and highly fertile soil, Hungary has barrel for fermentation. Previously, three Somló
the ideal conditions for winemaking. It has produced wine or four puttonyos wines were considered Badacsony
since the 3rd century BC, although its industry was badly Aszú, but regulation amendments mean
neglected during the Communist regime. Large-scale that now only wines with five or more Balatonfüred-Csopak
puttonyos can be called Aszú.
private investment has recently revived wine production Essencia is the rarest wine that Pannonhalma-Sokoróalja
in some areas, most notably in Tokaj, which is famous for requires six to eight years to ferment. Ászár-Neszmély
its wines. Quality reds and whites, as well as sparkling wines, Mór
are produced all over the country. In Aszú, the golden wine Sweet, aromatic white wines Etyek-Buda
of Tokaj, Hungary has one of the world’s most fêted dessert have been produced in Mátraalja
wines; in Bull’s Blood – a full-bodied red from Eger – it has Volcanic red soil typical of the since the 14th century. Mátraalja
one of the most legendary (see p223). Balatonfüred-Csopak vineyards Eger
gives the wines made here – M3 M3 Bükkalja
especially the world-class Pinot Tokaj-Hegyalja
Gris – a unique flavour with a
Miskolc
hint of vanilla. Miskolc Kiskunság
The wines of northwestern Hungary Nyíregyháza
Nyíregyháza
are characterized by their rich and Csongrád
vivid colours. The dessert wines Hajós-Baja
M1
of the Sopron region are M1 Győr M3
M3
Győr
Sopron
light and refreshing, and Sopron Szekszárd
the relatively high T Tatabányaatabánya M1 Mecsekalja
Tisa (Tisza)
M1
humidity of Ászár- Budapest Tisa (Tisza) Debrecen
Debrecen
Budapest
Neszmély is perfect Villány-Siklós
for growing M7 M7
Chardonnay Székesfehérvar M5
Székesfehérvar
Szombathely
M5
and Sauvignon Szombathely Szolnok
Szolnok
Blanc grapes. V Veszprémeszprém The first vineyards
Kecskemét
Zalaegerszeg
Bükkalja in the 1960s,
Zalaegerszeg Danube (Duna) Danube (Duna) Kecskemét were planted in
Balaton
Balaton making it Hungary’s
M7 M7 newest wine region.
Nagykanizsa M5 Grape-picking in Hungary is
Nagykanizsa
M5
considered an art, and many
Szeged
Szeged families have long, proud
traditions of serving vineyard
owners for generations.
Villány-Siklós is Pécs Although days are long during
Pécs
dotted with cellars the harvest, pickers are among
and wine-press 0 kilometres 50 the highest paid agricultural
houses, many of Kiskunság specializes in workers in the country.
which date back fine table whites made 0 miles 50
to the end of the from Chardonnay and
18th century. Sauvignon Blanc grapes.
Hungarian Sparkling Wine
Tokaj Wine Region Much as Reims competes with Epernay, so the
Immigrant Italian farmers introduced wineries of Pécs and Etyek-Buda vie for the
viticulture to the Tokaj-Hegyalja region title of best Hungarian Méthode Champenoise.
in the 12th century, after finding Sparkling wine was first made in Hungary in
outstanding conditions for growing 1859 at the Pannonia winery in Pécs. Three of
grapes on the slopes of Mount Tokaj. its brands – Pannonia, Hungaria and Törley
The golden Aszú wine that made the (perhaps the best known) – offer a broad
range of excellent sparkling wines, including
area famous was first produced in extra-dry, semi-sweet and rosé. Hungary’s
the 16th century, using overripe grapes sparkling wine is today widely regarded as one
infected with Botrytis cinerea (noble of the finest non-vintages produced outside
rot). After pressing, the wine is left the Champagne region in France. Hungarian Grande Cuvée
to ferment slowly over several years, Tokaj’s landscape – ideal for Overripe grapes with noble rot, Aszú ageing for several years in sparkling wine
producing an intensely sweet taste. winemaking used to make Aszú barrels in cellars
032-033_EW_Hungary.indd 32 18/09/17 3:39 pm 032-033_EW_Hungary.indd 33 18/09/17 3:39 pm
A POR TR AIT OF HUNGAR Y 33
Tokaji Aszú wine is defined by the Key to Wine Regions
number of puttony (units denoting the Sopron
level of sugar in the wine) added per
barrel for fermentation. Previously, three Somló
or four puttonyos wines were considered Badacsony
Aszú, but regulation amendments mean
that now only wines with five or more Balatonfüred-Csopak
puttonyos can be called Aszú. Pannonhalma-Sokoróalja
Essencia is the rarest wine that
requires six to eight years to ferment. Ászár-Neszmély
Mór
Sweet, aromatic white wines Etyek-Buda
have been produced in Mátraalja
since the 14th century. Mátraalja
Eger
M3 Bükkalja
Tokaj-Hegyalja
Miskolc Kiskunság
Nyíregyháza
Csongrád
Hajós-Baja
M1
Győr M3
Sopron Szekszárd
M1
Tatabánya Mecsekalja
Budapest Tisa (Tisza) Debrecen
Villány-Siklós
M7
Székesfehérvar M5
Szombathely Szolnok
Danube (Duna) The first vineyards
Veszprém
were planted in
Zalaegerszeg Kecskemét Bükkalja in the 1960s,
Balaton making it Hungary’s
M7 newest wine region.
Nagykanizsa M5 Grape-picking in Hungary is
considered an art, and many
Szeged families have long, proud
traditions of serving vineyard
owners for generations.
Pécs Although days are long during
the harvest, pickers are among
0 kilometres 50 the highest paid agricultural
0 miles 50 workers in the country.
Hungarian Sparkling Wine
Much as Reims competes with Epernay, so the
wineries of Pécs and Etyek-Buda vie for the
title of best Hungarian Méthode Champenoise.
Sparkling wine was first made in Hungary in
1859 at the Pannonia winery in Pécs. Three of
its brands – Pannonia, Hungaria and Törley
(perhaps the best known) – offer a broad
range of excellent sparkling wines, including
extra-dry, semi-sweet and rosé. Hungary’s
sparkling wine is today widely regarded as one
of the finest non-vintages produced outside
the Champagne region in France. Hungarian Grande Cuvée
Aszú ageing for several years in sparkling wine
barrels in cellars
032-033_EW_Hungary.indd 33 18/09/17 3:39 pm
34 INTRODUCING HUNGAR Y HUNGAR Y THROUGH THE Y EAR 35
HUNGARY THROUGH Average Daily Hours of Sunshine
THE YEAR Hours Sunshine Chart
12
Hungary enjoys most of
10 its sunshine hours in July
Hungary is subject to climate extremes, thermal baths as soon as the bitter cold and August, although
with winters usually bitterly cold and makes way for spring. Autumn is the 8 September and even
summers stiflingly hot. This does have its favourite season of bird- watchers, who 6 October can often still be
advan tages – Christmas is often white, while flock to Hungary to observe the southward 4 very sunny. The southwest
of the country sees the
summer evenings are long, sunny and warm. migration of the birds, while the late 2 most sunshine, the town
Spring and autumn also have their charms: summer harvest is a popular time for 0 of Pécs being officially
spring is welcomed by bathers, who beset festivals in many towns, especially on the Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec Hungary’s sunniest city.
the country’s out door pools, beaches and Great Plain, as winter preparations are made.
Sopron Festival Weeks
Summer
and craft markets make this (mid-Jun–mid-Jul), Sopron.
Spring
the largest spring festival held Summer is the most enjoyable Hungary’s largest town festival
Spring festivals, often musical outside Budapest. season, and every town and outside Budapest showcases
events, take place in almost Revolution Day (15 Mar) village has its festival week. everything from gastronomy
every town and city, to The anniversary of the revolution Lake Balaton comes alive when and architecture to classical
celebrate the passing of winter. of 1848, and the beginning of the entire country seems to music and children’s theatre.
Often coinciding with Easter, the revolt against the Habsburgs, decamp here, while folklore, The Early Music Days at the
these festivals offer a chance to is commemorated with a music and artistic events tempt end of June are a highlight.
taste the many sweet treats – re-enactment of Sándor visitors (and residents) to stay Hortobágy Equestrian
such as gingerbread – that Petőfi’s reading of the Twelve in the capital. Days (late Jun–early Jul),
Hungarians prepare in spring. Points on the steps of the Hortobágy National Park.
National Museum in Budapest. June Horsey pursuits include com
March Miskolc Opera Festival (mid- petitions in carriage driving
April
Budapest Spring Festival Jun), National Theatre, Miskolc and horseherding, displays
(end Mar–Apr), various venues, Easter is a major event in (see p230). Hungary’s premier of horsemanship, and a large
Budapest. Hungary’s cultural devoutly Catholic Hungary, opera festival is held for a week market selling equestrian goods.
year starts with this celebration and a large number of people in June. Each year, one or more Floats parading in the Debrecen Flower
of classical music. For more attend Easter Mass. Palm Hungarian operas and the work July Carnival on 20 August, a national holiday
than two weeks, renowned Sunday services, too, are Boys throwing water over the girls at the of one great foreign composer Jazz Days (Jul), Debrecen.
performers from the world interesting events, as people Hollókő Easter Festival are performed at the festival. Attracting worldrenowned Sziget Festival (end Jul–early
of opera, music and dance take bright flowers to church to Danube and Chain Bridge jazz musicians, this is the most Aug), Budapest. The biggest
converge on various venues be blessed. Visitors should also Heritage village of Hollókő Carnival (throughout Jun), important jazz event in the music festival in central Europe,
in Budapest, including the State make sure they do not miss the (see pp218–19) showcases Budapest. The completion of country. Running now for more the threeday event on a
Opera House (see pp92–3). brightly decorated gingerbread Palóc traditional crafts, including Chain Bridge is celebrated in than 30 years, it brings together Danube island attracts the very
Pécs Spring Festival (mid- that can be found in sweet fine, delicately hand-painted a number of riverbased a range of jazz styles. biggest names in pop and rock.
Mar–Apr), Pécs. Symphonic shops and supermarkets all over Easter eggs and masses of activities, which climax in the Visegrád Palace Games August
and chamber concerts, Hungary in the run-up to Easter. tasty gingerbread. powerboat races on the final (Jul). Hungary’s best castle
theatre and literary evenings, Hollókő Easter Festival (Easter May Sunday. There are also concerts festival, with jousting contests, Hungarian Grand Prix
folklore shows, exhibitions Sun & Mon). The UNESCO World and street perform ances, many archery displays, mock battles Formula 1 (Aug), Budapest.
Gizella Days (first/second of which take place on Chain and a festival of medieval arts Hungary has hosted motor
weekend), Veszprém. Bridge itself. to be enjoyed. races since the 1920s. For
The May Bank Holiday sees three days the F1 circus rolls
Veszprém honour Gizella of into Mogyoród.
Bavaria, St István’s wife, with Flower Carnival, Debrecen
a colourful procession led (Virágkarnevál, 20 Aug),
through the heart of the city’s Debrecen. St István’s Day is
old town. celebrated in Debrecen by
Sailing Day (first/second decorating the entire city
weekend), Balatonfüred. The centre with flowers. A large
opening of the sailing season flower market takes place on
on Lake Balaton is marked with Piac utca, and flowerbedecked
a colourful regatta of thousands floats parade through the city’s
of sailing boats. Sailing Day has streets. In the evening there is
been cele brated since 1935 and a free pop concert that is
continues to grow in size. usually well attended.
Supporting events include Fireworks over the Danube
exhibitions, concerts, street (20 Aug), Budapest. Pyrotechnics
The Budapest Spring Festival, ringing in the performance season parties and firework displays. Formula 1 race at the Hungarian Grand Prix, Mogyoród near Budapest to celebrate St István’s Day.
034-037_EW_Hungary.indd 34 14/11/2017 16:48 034-037_EW_Hungary.indd 35 18/09/17 3:39 pm
HUNGAR Y THROUGH THE Y EAR 35
Average Daily Hours of Sunshine
Hours Sunshine Chart
12
Hungary enjoys most of
10 its sunshine hours in July
and August, although
8
September and even
6 October can often still be
4 very sunny. The southwest
of the country sees the
2 most sunshine, the town
0 of Pécs being officially
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec Hungary’s sunniest city.
Sopron Festival Weeks
Summer (mid-Jun–mid-Jul), Sopron.
Summer is the most enjoyable Hungary’s largest town festival
season, and every town and outside Budapest showcases
village has its festival week. everything from gastronomy
Lake Balaton comes alive when and architecture to classical
the entire country seems to music and children’s theatre.
decamp here, while folklore, The Early Music Days at the
music and artistic events tempt end of June are a highlight.
visitors (and residents) to stay Hortobágy Equestrian
in the capital. Days (late Jun–early Jul),
Hortobágy National Park.
June
Horsey pursuits include com
Miskolc Opera Festival (mid- petitions in carriage driving
Jun), National Theatre, Miskolc and horseherding, displays
(see p230). Hungary’s premier of horsemanship, and a large
opera festival is held for a week market selling equestrian goods.
in June. Each year, one or more Floats parading in the Debrecen Flower
Hungarian operas and the work July Carnival on 20 August, a national holiday
of one great foreign composer Jazz Days (Jul), Debrecen.
are performed at the festival. Attracting worldrenowned Sziget Festival (end Jul–early
Danube and Chain Bridge jazz musicians, this is the most Aug), Budapest. The biggest
Carnival (throughout Jun), important jazz event in the music festival in central Europe,
Budapest. The completion of country. Running now for more the threeday event on a
Chain Bridge is celebrated in than 30 years, it brings together Danube island attracts the very
a number of riverbased a range of jazz styles. biggest names in pop and rock.
activities, which climax in the Visegrád Palace Games August
powerboat races on the final (Jul). Hungary’s best castle
Sunday. There are also concerts festival, with jousting contests, Hungarian Grand Prix
and street perform ances, many archery displays, mock battles Formula 1 (Aug), Budapest.
of which take place on Chain and a festival of medieval arts Hungary has hosted motor
Bridge itself. to be enjoyed. races since the 1920s. For
three days the F1 circus rolls
into Mogyoród.
Flower Carnival, Debrecen
(Virágkarnevál, 20 Aug),
Debrecen. St István’s Day is
celebrated in Debrecen by
decorating the entire city
centre with flowers. A large
flower market takes place on
Piac utca, and flowerbedecked
floats parade through the city’s
streets. In the evening there is
a free pop concert that is
usually well attended.
Fireworks over the Danube
(20 Aug), Budapest. Pyrotechnics
Formula 1 race at the Hungarian Grand Prix, Mogyoród near Budapest to celebrate St István’s Day.
034-037_EW_Hungary.indd 35 18/09/17 3:39 pm
36 INTRODUCING HUNGAR Y HUNGAR Y THROUGH THE Y EAR 37
Average Monthly Rainfall Average Monthly Temperature
Temperature Chart
MM Inches °C °F
160 7 Rainfall Chart July and August can
Hungary has only 30 90 boast up to 10 hours
120 6 moderate rainfall. It tends 25 80 of warm sunshine
100 5 to occur in spring and per day, with average
80 4 autumn, with November 20 70 summer temperatures
60 3 being the wettest month, 15 60 a comfortable 22 °C
(71.6 °F). Winters are
followed by January, May
40 2 and June. The country’s 10 50 cold, especially on the
20 1 Northern Mountains 5 40 Great Plain, where bitter
0 0 receive the highest 0 30 winds tend to blow in
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec amounts of precipitation. Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec from the east.
this one-day festival. There are Christmas Gift Markets (Dec),
Autumn goulash cooking competitions, Winter Sopron and Budapest.
Harvest fruits dominate the traditional handicraft fairs and Snows can arrive as early as Throughout December, Fő tér in
calendar in autumn, with wine recitals of poetry dedicated to November, and by Christmas Old Sopron and Vörösmarty tér
and food festivals taking centre the national dish. Most years the country is often covered in in Budapest are the enchanting
stage. Many of the towns along there is also an attempt to break a white blanket. The big freeze settings for Christ mas Gift
the Danube and Tisza hold fish the “world’s largest goulash” does not, however, stop the Markets, attracting shoppers
soup festivals, the largest in Baja. record, with the end product outdoor fun, and natural ice from afar as well as locals.
The capital, meanwhile, attracts shared freely among all. rinks, such as that in Városliget January
runners and sports enthusiasts Winesong Festival (end of Sep), park, Budapest (see p110-11),
for the Budapest Marathon. Pécs and Villány. Wine-makers in are very popular. Szilveszter (New Year’s Eve)
Pécs and on the Villány-Siklós New Year’s Eve in Hungary is
September December
wine road celebrate the harvest traditionally celebrated on the
Pécs Days (mid-Sep), Pécs. by bringing in the best choirs in Christmas Eve (24 Dec), streets. People eat early, grab a
Brass band concerts and wine Hungary for 10 days of wine countrywide. In Hungary this is bottle of sparkling wine and Revellers in menacing costumes at the
tastings are the highlights of and song. There are concerts all the main, most intimate day for head for the free concerts in Busójárás Carnival, Mohács
this week-long festival. along the wine road, with the Christmas celebration, when most city centres. The largest is
Wine Festivals (Sep–Oct) biggest and best held in the close family members have their in Vörösmarty tér, Budapest, Busójárás Carnival (end Feb),
Major wine harvest festivals are main square in Pécs. festive dinner and exchange while there is also a massive Mohács. During the occupation
held in all of Hungary’s wine- Budavári Borfesztivál The Budapest Marathon, one of the presents. Life in Hungary street festival in Szentendre. of Mohács by the Turks, the
producing regions (see pp32–3), (International Wine Festival, Sep), largest in Europe therefore normally comes to a February citizens would dress in menacing
the largest in the Badacsony, and Royal Palace, Buda pest. halt at noon on the 24th, but in masks and costumes in an
at Eger, Balatonfüred and Sopron. Hungary’s largest wine festival October many cases the whole day is Kapos Carnival Days (early Feb), attempt to frighten the occupiers
Vintage wines are cele-brated at features more than 100 Budapest Marathon (early Oct), taken as a holiday. Kaposvár. The whole of Kaposvár away. Today, people still dress
Szekszárd on 14 September. marquees, many offering a Budapest. Taking in the city’s Mikulás (6 Dec). As in many (see p189) appears to take part in up in spooky outfits for Carnival,
Goulash Festival (second Sun of chance to sample the best main sights, including Buda countries in central Europe, this festival of Kapos culture, the which is now a far wider event,
Sep), Szolnok. Hungary’s national Hungarian wines from all of the Castle, Margaret Island and Mikulás (aka St Nicholas or highlight of which is the parade featuring performers of trad-
dish (see pp272–3) is the star of wine-producing regions. Chain Bridge, on its 42-km Santa Claus) visits children on of costumed stilt-walkers. itional and modern music
(26-mile) route, the Budapest this day. Traditional presents Renaissance Carnival Gyula alongside the costume parade.
Marathon has been run every given on St Nicholas’ Day tend (2nd weekend of Feb), Gyula. The
year since 1985. The start is in to be of the edible and sugary grounds of Gyula Castle (see Public Holidays
Hősök tere, and the finish in variety, with larger toys now p245) play host to this medieval-
Városliget (see p110-11). reserved for Christmas. style pageant yearly. New Year’s Day (1 Jan).
Gödöllő Harp Festival (mid- Anniversary of the
Oct), Royal Palace, Gödöllő. Revolution of 1848 (15 Mar)
Every year Baroque musicians Easter Monday (Mar/Apr)
from all over the world Whit Monday (May/June)
converge on the perfect setting
of Gödöllő Royal Palace (see May Day (1 May)
pp138–9) for this renowned National Day (St István’s Day)
series of chamber concerts. (20 Aug)
Anniversary of the 1956
November Hungarian Uprising and the
Szombathely St Martin Week proclamation of Hungary’s
(1st week Nov), Szombathely. democratic constitution in
The town celebrates its patron 1989 (23 Oct)
saint, St Martin of Tours, with All Saints’ Day (1 Nov)
a variety of musical and Christmas (25–26 Dec)
Music and dance at the Tihany Wine Festival theatrical events. Christmas Gift Market, Budapest
034-037_EW_Hungary.indd 36 18/09/17 3:39 pm 034-037_EW_Hungary.indd 37 18/09/17 3:39 pm
HUNGAR Y THROUGH THE Y EAR 37
Average Monthly Temperature
Temperature Chart
°C °F July and August can
30 90 boast up to 10 hours
of warm sunshine
25 80
per day, with average
20 70 summer temperatures
15 60 a comfortable 22 °C
(71.6 °F). Winters are
10 50
cold, especially on the
5 40 Great Plain, where bitter
winds tend to blow in
0 30
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec from the east.
Christmas Gift Markets (Dec),
Winter Sopron and Budapest.
Snows can arrive as early as Throughout December, Fő tér in
November, and by Christmas Old Sopron and Vörösmarty tér
the country is often covered in in Budapest are the enchanting
a white blanket. The big freeze settings for Christ mas Gift
does not, however, stop the Markets, attracting shoppers
outdoor fun, and natural ice from afar as well as locals.
rinks, such as that in Városliget January
park, Budapest (see p110-11),
are very popular. Szilveszter (New Year’s Eve)
New Year’s Eve in Hungary is
December
traditionally celebrated on the
Christmas Eve (24 Dec), streets. People eat early, grab a
countrywide. In Hungary this is bottle of sparkling wine and Revellers in menacing costumes at the
the main, most intimate day for head for the free concerts in Busójárás Carnival, Mohács
Christmas celebration, when most city centres. The largest is
close family members have their in Vörösmarty tér, Budapest, Busójárás Carnival (end Feb),
festive dinner and exchange while there is also a massive Mohács. During the occupation
presents. Life in Hungary street festival in Szentendre. of Mohács by the Turks, the
therefore normally comes to a February citizens would dress in menacing
halt at noon on the 24th, but in masks and costumes in an
many cases the whole day is Kapos Carnival Days (early Feb), attempt to frighten the occupiers
taken as a holiday. Kaposvár. The whole of Kaposvár away. Today, people still dress
Mikulás (6 Dec). As in many (see p189) appears to take part in up in spooky outfits for Carnival,
countries in central Europe, this festival of Kapos culture, the which is now a far wider event,
Mikulás (aka St Nicholas or highlight of which is the parade featuring performers of trad-
Santa Claus) visits children on of costumed stilt-walkers. itional and modern music
this day. Traditional presents Renaissance Carnival Gyula alongside the costume parade.
given on St Nicholas’ Day tend (2nd weekend of Feb), Gyula. The
to be of the edible and sugary grounds of Gyula Castle (see Public Holidays
variety, with larger toys now p245) play host to this medieval-
reserved for Christmas. style pageant yearly. New Year’s Day (1 Jan).
Anniversary of the
Revolution of 1848 (15 Mar)
Easter Monday (Mar/Apr)
Whit Monday (May/June)
May Day (1 May)
National Day (St István’s Day)
(20 Aug)
Anniversary of the 1956
Hungarian Uprising and the
proclamation of Hungary’s
democratic constitution in
1989 (23 Oct)
All Saints’ Day (1 Nov)
Christmas (25–26 Dec)
Christmas Gift Market, Budapest
034-037_EW_Hungary.indd 37 18/09/17 3:39 pm
INTRODUCING HUNGAR Y 39
THE HISTORY OF
HUNGARY
Most modern histories give little space to pre-Magyar Hungary but, given
the importance of the region both then and now, this is a shame. Hungary’s
geographical location, at the heart of the European continent, has made it
pivotal in invasions and empire-building from a time long before the notion
of Europe – or Hungary – had ever been contemplated.
There is evidence that the Great Plain Urals, rolled into the region in 895 or 896.
has been inhabited since the Bronze Age. It was at this time that Hungarian history
Horsemen from the steppes eventually first became entangled in conflict. The
destroyed the existing culture in the Magyars claim to have arrived in a desolate,
13th century BC. Celts later occupied parts sparsely populated land (the Slavs having
of the land, and in AD 10 to 35, in its final moved south into the Balkans at the end
push for expansion, Rome conquered of the 8th century); meanwhile, Romanian
Transdanubia, renaming it Pannonia, historians – to support their claim on
and later adding Dacia. Transylvania – insist that the Carpathian
The Romans developed an urban basin was in fact inhabited by direct
infrastructure, including paved roads, city descendants of the Romans.
forums, stadiums and baths, in Northern The Magyars first settled on Csepel
Transdanubia, still visible today in the Island, in the middle of the Danube
ruined remains of Aquin cum, Óbuda, just south of present-day Budapest,
Szombathely and Sopron. before quickly occupying much of the
Barbarian tribes finally put an end to the surrounding area. Tradition holds that
rule of Rome. In 271 Dacia was abandoned once the entire Carpathian basin had
as too expensive and troublesome to been occupied – and what little resistance
defend; Pannonia was similarly left to its there was had been quelled – the Magyar
fate in 403. Gothic, Hun, Avar and Slav clan leaders chose a chieftain named
tribes by turns filled the void; indeed, the Árpád to lead them, and that they swore
Hun king Attila ran his powerful but short- an oath by sipping from a cup of their
lived empire from here. mixed blood to accept Árpád’s male
descendants as the Magyars’ hereditary
The Magyars chieftains. Estimates suggest that Árpád
The Magyars, a nomadic, pagan, Finno- ruled over some 400,000 people, made
Ugric tribe whose ancient homeland is up of seven Magyar, one Kabar, and other
thought to have been an area east of the smaller tribes.
500,000 BC Traces of hunters 5,000 BC Evidence c.10 AD Romans 895–6 Magyars migrate
living at Vértesszőlős near Tata of Stone Age invade Transdanubia, west into the Danube-
in 500,000 BC, who made and settlements in the incorporating it into Tisza Basin. Árpád is
used tools, were found in 1965. Carpathian basin. Pannonia. chosen as their chieftain.
500,000 BC 10,000 BC 5,000 BC AD 850 AD
c.50 BC Celtic Eravi settle ments
c.10,000 BC Remains on Gellért Hill, Buda. 895 Magyars
dating from the join Byzantine
Palaeolithic era indicate 800 BC Tombs with Iron Age urns armies to fight
settlements near Carving of the sun at Pünkösdfürdő. the Bulgars.
present-day Buda. god Mithras
Gyula Benczúr’s The Baptism of Vajk, in the Hungarian National Gallery
Hun_038-041_Hist_Opener.indd 38 17/02/2015 12:59 Hun_038-041_Hist_Opener.indd 39 17/02/2015 12:59
INTRODUCING HUNGAR Y 39
THE HISTORY OF
HUNGARY
Most modern histories give little space to pre-Magyar Hungary but, given
the importance of the region both then and now, this is a shame. Hungary’s
geographical location, at the heart of the European continent, has made it
pivotal in invasions and empire-building from a time long before the notion
of Europe – or Hungary – had ever been contemplated.
There is evidence that the Great Plain Urals, rolled into the region in 895 or 896.
has been inhabited since the Bronze Age. It was at this time that Hungarian history
Horsemen from the steppes eventually first became entangled in conflict. The
destroyed the existing culture in the Magyars claim to have arrived in a desolate,
13th century BC. Celts later occupied parts sparsely populated land (the Slavs having
of the land, and in AD 10 to 35, in its final moved south into the Balkans at the end
push for expansion, Rome conquered of the 8th century); meanwhile, Romanian
Transdanubia, renaming it Pannonia, historians – to support their claim on
and later adding Dacia. Transylvania – insist that the Carpathian
The Romans developed an urban basin was in fact inhabited by direct
infrastructure, including paved roads, city descendants of the Romans.
forums, stadiums and baths, in Northern The Magyars first settled on Csepel
Transdanubia, still visible today in the Island, in the middle of the Danube
ruined remains of Aquin cum, Óbuda, just south of present-day Budapest,
Szombathely and Sopron. before quickly occupying much of the
Barbarian tribes finally put an end to the surrounding area. Tradition holds that
rule of Rome. In 271 Dacia was abandoned once the entire Carpathian basin had
as too expensive and troublesome to been occupied – and what little resistance
defend; Pannonia was similarly left to its there was had been quelled – the Magyar
fate in 403. Gothic, Hun, Avar and Slav clan leaders chose a chieftain named
tribes by turns filled the void; indeed, the Árpád to lead them, and that they swore
Hun king Attila ran his powerful but short- an oath by sipping from a cup of their
lived empire from here. mixed blood to accept Árpád’s male
descendants as the Magyars’ hereditary
The Magyars chieftains. Estimates suggest that Árpád
The Magyars, a nomadic, pagan, Finno- ruled over some 400,000 people, made
Ugric tribe whose ancient homeland is up of seven Magyar, one Kabar, and other
thought to have been an area east of the smaller tribes.
500,000 BC Traces of hunters 5,000 BC Evidence c.10 AD Romans 895–6 Magyars migrate
living at Vértesszőlős near Tata of Stone Age invade Transdanubia, west into the Danube-
in 500,000 BC, who made and settlements in the incorporating it into Tisza Basin. Árpád is
used tools, were found in 1965. Carpathian basin. Pannonia. chosen as their chieftain.
500,000 BC 10,000 BC 5,000 BC AD 850 AD
c.50 BC Celtic Eravi settle ments
c.10,000 BC Remains on Gellért Hill, Buda. 895 Magyars
dating from the join Byzantine
Palaeolithic era indicate 800 BC Tombs with Iron Age urns armies to fight
settlements near Carving of the sun at Pünkösdfürdő. the Bulgars.
present-day Buda. god Mithras
Gyula Benczúr’s The Baptism of Vajk, in the Hungarian National Gallery
Hun_038-041_Hist_Opener.indd 39 17/02/2015 12:59
40 INTRODUCING HUNGAR Y THE HIST OR Y OF HUNGAR Y 41
István was crowned on Christmas Day 1000. and the Mongols routed Béla’s army at Muhi one of his foreign excursions the Turks
István now held absolute power. He ordered on 11 April 1241. Béla fled to Austria. The made their first inroads into the Balkans.
that every tenth village build a church and Mongols utterly destroyed Hungary, killing After Louis’s death in 1382, Sigis mund
donated land to bishoprics and monasteries. half the population. After the mysterious of Lux em burg bankrupted the country,
He required all persons, Christian or pagan – death of their leader in 1242, however, amid the expansion of the Otto man
but not the clergy – to marry. Foreign the superstitious Mongols withdrew. empire. Sigismund led a crusade
monks worked as teachers and introduced against the Turks in 1396, but was
Western agricultural methods. Renaissance routed at Nicopolis. He died in 1437,
On his return to power, Béla and his successors, Albrecht V of
István’s Successors transformed royal castles into Austria (1437–9) and Władysław III
István died in 1038 and was canonized towns, encouraging Germans, of Poland (1439–44), known in
in 1083. Hungary continued to grow Italians and Jews to populate them. Hungary as Ulászló I, both died
Altarpiece with Saints István, Imre and Gellért stronger, having conquered Transylvania Mining restarted, farming methods during campaigns against the Turks.
in 997–1006. In 1090, László I (1077–95) improved, and crafts and commerce Hungary’s noblemen now chose the
The Birth of the Hungarian Kingdom occupied Slavonia and Kálmán I flourished. Béla died in 1270, and the infant king László V and appointed a
Europe in the 10th century was weak and (1095–1116) became King of Croatia in Árpád line expired in 1301, when regent, János Hunyadi, to run the
Magyar bands roamed the land and looted 1103. Under Béla III (1173–96) Hungary András III died with out a male heir. Árpád, sculpture in country. Hunyadi was a gifted
the towns for decades. They were routed dominated in south eastern Europe. Confronted by succession Mátyás Church, warrior, defeating the Ottomans in
Budapest
in the west in 955 by King Otto I, and in The good times came to an end with disputes, Hun gary’s nobles chose Transylvania in 1442 and in the
the east in 970 by the Byzantines. Chieftain King András II (1205–35). A big spender foreign kings. These, Charles I (1309–42) Battle of Belgrade in 1456, but he died of
Géza (972–97), Árpád’s great-grandson, on foreign military adventures and and his son and successor Louis I (1342– the plague soon after, and after two years
was baptized into the Christian Church, domestic luxuries, he gave huge land 82), both from the House of Anjou, ruled of struggle for the succession his son
and missionaries began the process of grants to friendly foreign nobles. They during a time of peace. Louis I confirmed Mátyás was proclaimed king.
converting the Magyars. Géza established soon made up a class of magnates whose the Golden Bull again in 1351, and in
a strong central authority. wealth was far greater than that of the 1367 founded Hungary’s first university, at King Mátyás
Magyar lesser nobles. When he tried to Pécs. However, he also fought costly wars, Mátyás enlisted 30,000 foreign mercenaries
István I raise taxes, the people rebelled. In 1222 becoming king of Poland in 1370. During and built fortresses along the southern
Géza’s son, István (Stephen, ruled 997–1038), he was forced to sign the Golden Bull, frontier, but instead of a direct anti-Turkish
was educated in Prague, baptized at some limiting his power and leading to the policy, he launched attacks on Bohe mia,
point in his early life, and in 996 he married creation of Parliament. Poland and Austria, hoping to forge a
Gisela, a Bavarian princess and sister Béla IV (1235–70), András’s son, unified front against the Turks. Mátyás was
of Emperor Henry II. István became tried with little success to regain a modernizer, reforming the legal system
chieftain when Géza died. lost crown lands in order to and promoting development. A Renais-
He ousted rival clan chiefs, re-establish royal pre-eminence, sance man, he made his court a centre
confiscating their lands. István but instead this created a rift of human ism; under his rule Hungary
then asked Pope Sylvester II to between king and nobles just as began printing and established a second
recognize him as king of Hungary. the Mongols were sweeping university. However, he failed in his quest
The pope agreed, and – with a Holy Crown of Hungary, or towards Europe. He ordered his for a Western alliance and, with it, the
crown sent by the pope himself – Crown of St István armies to mobilize, but few did, The Renaissance main altar in Mátyás Church, Budapest Holy Roman crown.
14th-century ciborium
972–97 Chieftain 1309 Charles Robert becomes 1456 Hunyadi defeats the Turks 1458
Géza becomes king. 1090 László I (1077– 1103 Kálmán I (1095– 1222 Nobles force King Charles I. Marriages link in the Battle of Belgrade. Hunyadi Hunyadi’s son,
King Géza I, He is baptized as a 95) occupies 1116) takes the title of András II (1205–35) Hungary to Naples and Poland. dies of plague. Mátyás
father of Christian in 975. Slavonia. King of Croatia. to sign Golden Bull (1458–90),
King István limiting crown’s power. 1367 Hungary’s first university crowned king.
is founded at Pécs.
1150
900 950 1000 1050 1100 1150 1200 1250 1300 1350 1400 1450
1200
1077–95 Latin alphabet adapted 1351 Louis I (1342–82)
997 István I (997–1038) succeeds his for Hungarian. Magyars 1173– 96 Under Béla III, 1241 Mongols Mongols 1242 The recon firms Golden Bull. 1490 Mátyás
1241
father Géza; Pope Sylvester II occupy Transylvania. Hungary becomes a r rout the out the Mongols 1442 Hunyadi dies while
recognizes him as King of Hungary. leading power in Hungar withdraw from 1301 Death of András III, last of defeats the Turks visiting Vienna.
Hungarian army ian army
10th-century southeastern Europe. at Muhi.uhi. Hungary. the Árpád kings. in Transylvania.
at M
Magyar belt buckle
Hun_038-041_Hist_Opener.indd 40 17/02/2015 12:59 Hun_038-041_Hist_Opener.indd 41 17/02/2015 12:59
THE HIST OR Y OF HUNGAR Y 41
and the Mongols routed Béla’s army at Muhi one of his foreign excursions the Turks
on 11 April 1241. Béla fled to Austria. The made their first inroads into the Balkans.
Mongols utterly destroyed Hungary, killing After Louis’s death in 1382, Sigis mund
half the population. After the mysterious of Lux em burg bankrupted the country,
death of their leader in 1242, however, amid the expansion of the Otto man
the superstitious Mongols withdrew. empire. Sigismund led a crusade
against the Turks in 1396, but was
Renaissance routed at Nicopolis. He died in 1437,
On his return to power, Béla and his successors, Albrecht V of
transformed royal castles into Austria (1437–9) and Władysław III
towns, encouraging Germans, of Poland (1439–44), known in
Italians and Jews to populate them. Hungary as Ulászló I, both died
Mining restarted, farming methods during campaigns against the Turks.
improved, and crafts and commerce Hungary’s noblemen now chose the
flourished. Béla died in 1270, and the infant king László V and appointed a
Árpád line expired in 1301, when regent, János Hunyadi, to run the
András III died with out a male heir. Árpád, sculpture in country. Hunyadi was a gifted
Confronted by succession Mátyás Church, warrior, defeating the Ottomans in
Budapest
disputes, Hun gary’s nobles chose Transylvania in 1442 and in the
foreign kings. These, Charles I (1309–42) Battle of Belgrade in 1456, but he died of
and his son and successor Louis I (1342– the plague soon after, and after two years
82), both from the House of Anjou, ruled of struggle for the succession his son
during a time of peace. Louis I confirmed Mátyás was proclaimed king.
the Golden Bull again in 1351, and in
1367 founded Hungary’s first university, at King Mátyás
Pécs. However, he also fought costly wars, Mátyás enlisted 30,000 foreign mercenaries
becoming king of Poland in 1370. During and built fortresses along the southern
frontier, but instead of a direct anti-Turkish
policy, he launched attacks on Bohe mia,
Poland and Austria, hoping to forge a
unified front against the Turks. Mátyás was
a modernizer, reforming the legal system
and promoting development. A Renais-
sance man, he made his court a centre
of human ism; under his rule Hungary
began printing and established a second
university. However, he failed in his quest
for a Western alliance and, with it, the
The Renaissance main altar in Mátyás Church, Budapest Holy Roman crown.
14th-century ciborium
1309 Charles Robert becomes 1456 Hunyadi defeats the Turks 1458
1222 Nobles force King Charles I. Marriages link in the Battle of Belgrade. Hunyadi Hunyadi’s son,
András II (1205–35) Hungary to Naples and Poland. dies of plague. Mátyás
to sign Golden Bull 1367 Hungary’s first university (1458–90),
limiting crown’s power. is founded at Pécs. crowned king.
1150 1200 1250 1300 1350 1400 1450
1351 Louis I (1342–82)
1241 Mongols 1242 The recon firms Golden Bull. 1490 Mátyás
rout the Mongols 1442 Hunyadi dies while
Hungarian army withdraw from 1301 Death of András III, last of defeats the Turks visiting Vienna.
at Muhi. Hungary. the Árpád kings. in Transylvania.
Hun_038-041_Hist_Opener.indd 41 17/02/2015 12:59
42 INTRODUCING HUNGAR Y THE HIST OR Y OF HUNGAR Y 43
Mátyás Corvinus and the Renaissance Hungary
Hungarian Renaissance Manuscripts from The full bloom of the Renaissance
Mátyás’s library are on period took place in Hungary in the
Although St Stephen (István) is Hungary’s patron saint, Mátyás display at the Széchényi late 15th and early 16th centuries,
Corvinus was much more popular in the country, and is generally Library (see p60). Mátyás set having reached the country via a
up the first national library,
procession of Italian master craftsmen
far more celebrated than his canonized predecessor. Mátyás was Bibliotheca Corviniana, and and masons brought by Mátyás’s
one of the original Renaissance men: at once a king, military leader, sanctioned the first second wife, Queen Beatrice. The
warrior and patron of the arts. During his 32-year reign from 1458 printing press in the Turkish occupation, which changed
to 1490, and at his often brutal behest, Hungary evolved rapidly country. The earliest book the course of Hungarian art and
published in Hungary
history, destroyed much evidence
from its feudal past to become the greatest kingdom in Middle (written in Latin) was the of Renaissance splendour, but
Europe. Much of this progress came from the influence of Mátyás’s Chronica Hungarorum, Sárospatak Castle (see pp232–3)
equally visionary second wife, Queen Beatrice, daughter of the Gold seals were indicative printed in Buda in 1473. is a fine example of the style.
of the affluence enjoyed by
King of Naples. Her powers of persuasion over Mátyás, and Hungary while Mátyás was
subsequently on Hungary, should not be underestimated. on the throne. Foot soldiers in
Mátyás’s army would
have carried shields
This illuminated letter like this one. It bears
from the Philostratus part of an early
Codex formed part of coat of arms of the
the Codex Heroica, the Hunyadi family, and
most valuable volume in is exhibited at the
Mátyás’s library. It featured Hungarian National
tracts by the Athenian Museum (see pp102–3).
philosopher Philostratus,
and was translated into
Latin by humanist Antonio
Bonfini in 1497. It is housed The globe, depicted alongside
at the Széchényi National mathematical instruments,
Library (see p60). books and a telescope, reinforces The fabulous architectural detail of
the idea of Mátyás as a humanist,
scientist and man of the arts. Mátyás Church in Budapest
King Matthias and the Daughter of
the Mayor of Breslau Representing a
man and woman,
Painted by Mihály Kovács, this famous 19th-century work these wine cups
depicts a carousing Mátyás (Matthias) wooing Barbara date from the 16th
Krebs, the daughter of the Mayor of Breslau (present-day century and are
Wrocław). Mátyás wanted to marry Krebs, but as she was designed to fit
not of noble blood he was not permitted to do so. Instead, together to form
Mátyás took Krebs as his mistress. She bore him an one covered Győr Cathedral (see p178) was
illegitimate child, Johannus, who, when Mátyás failed to receptacle. The destroyed by the Mongols in the
produce a legitimate son, became his chosen heir, although cups would have 13th century, and Mátyás viewed its
Władysław II (Ulászló II) was his successor. been used in reconstruction as one of his most
elaborate wedding sacred and important duties.
celebrations during
Barbara Krebs was Mátyás’s Mátyás was a generous the Renaissance.
mistress for six years. king, known for his equity
and his admiration for the
Italian Renaissance.
Inscribed with the
date 1470, the Crest
of Mátyás Corvinus
commemorates the
building of significant Carved by an unknown
additions to Mátyás sculptor in 1526, this
Church in Budapest Virgin and Child marks Siklós Castle was first constructed in
(see pp66–7). the zenith of Hungarian
These marble engravings of Queen Beatrice Originally called the Renaissance art. Today it the late medieval period (about 1190)
but is best known for its Renaissance-
and Mátyás, held at the Hungarian National Parish Church of forms part of the Andras
Museum (see pp102–3), are believed to be the work Our Lady Mary, the Bathory collection at era modifications. It hosts a summer
Renaissance Arts Festival.
of Gian Cristoforo Romano, and were probably a church was renamed the Hungarian National
wedding gift from a rich courtier. after the king. Museum (see pp102–3).
042-043_EW_Hungary.indd 42 18/09/17 3:39 pm 042-043_EW_Hungary.indd 43 18/09/17 3:39 pm
THE HIST OR Y OF HUNGAR Y 43
Renaissance Hungary
Manuscripts from The full bloom of the Renaissance
Mátyás’s library are on period took place in Hungary in the
display at the Széchényi late 15th and early 16th centuries,
Library (see p60). Mátyás set having reached the country via a
up the first national library, procession of Italian master craftsmen
Bibliotheca Corviniana, and and masons brought by Mátyás’s
sanctioned the first second wife, Queen Beatrice. The
printing press in the Turkish occupation, which changed
country. The earliest book the course of Hungarian art and
published in Hungary history, destroyed much evidence
(written in Latin) was the of Renaissance splendour, but
Chronica Hungarorum, Sárospatak Castle (see pp232–3)
printed in Buda in 1473. is a fine example of the style.
Foot soldiers in
Mátyás’s army would
have carried shields
like this one. It bears
part of an early
coat of arms of the
Hunyadi family, and
is exhibited at the
Hungarian National
Museum (see pp102–3).
The globe, depicted alongside
mathematical instruments,
books and a telescope, reinforces The fabulous architectural detail of
the idea of Mátyás as a humanist,
scientist and man of the arts. Mátyás Church in Budapest
Representing a
man and woman,
these wine cups
date from the 16th
century and are
designed to fit
together to form
one covered Győr Cathedral (see p178) was
receptacle. The destroyed by the Mongols in the
cups would have 13th century, and Mátyás viewed its
been used in reconstruction as one of his most
elaborate wedding sacred and important duties.
celebrations during
Mátyás was a generous
king, known for his equity the Renaissance.
and his admiration for the
Italian Renaissance.
Carved by an unknown
sculptor in 1526, this
Virgin and Child marks Siklós Castle was first constructed in
the zenith of Hungarian the late medieval period (about 1190)
Renaissance art. Today it but is best known for its Renaissance-
forms part of the Andras era modifications. It hosts a summer
Bathory collection at Renaissance Arts Festival.
the Hungarian National
Museum (see pp102–3).
042-043_EW_Hungary.indd 43 18/09/17 3:39 pm
44 INTRODUCING HUNGAR Y THE HIST OR Y OF HUNGAR Y 45
in August 1526, annihilating the Hungarian Turks practised religious Habsburg rule
army and Louis II at the Battle of Mohács (see tolerance, giving Hungarians After the expulsion of the Turks,
p187). Rival factions of nobles then elected living within the empire the Austrians colonized Hun
two kings, János Szapolyai (1526–40), significant autonomy. gary with Germans, which led
supported by Eastern nobles and the Turks, Transylvania became to an antiHabsburg revolt in
and Habsburg king Ferdinand (1526–64), an Ottoman vassal state. 1703–11. It was put down and
supported by Western nobles and the Holy It functioned as an the leader, Tran sylv anian prince
Roman Empire. Hungary’s independent country, ruled Ferenc Rákóczi, was forced
partition became final by local princes who paid a into exile, yet the Habs burgs
Austrian Siege of Buda, 1602–3
in 1541, when the tribute to the Turks. But the guaranteed constitutional
Partition Turks put an end to princes’ increasing auto independence for Hungary
After Mátyás, oligarchs took control of Habs burg attempts at nomy angered the Turks, Ottoman Campaign Tent, taken during the and restored noble privileges.
Siege of Vienna, 1683
Hungary and crowned a puppet king, reuniting the throne by who routed their armies in Peace and prosperity followed,
Władysław Jagiello, known in Hungary as occupying Buda and Pest. 1660 and took control of Transylvania. first under Empress Maria Theresa (1740–80)
Ulászló II (1490–1516), to nominally rule and later her son, Joseph II (1780–90).
the country. In 1492 the Diet once again The Three States Reunification Enlightened absolutists, they strengthened
limited the serfs’ freedom of movement, of Hungary Hungary’s aristocracy was increasingly their empire by pursuing a more humane
and in 1514 serfs attacked estates across Western Hungary officially dominated by Protestants and opposition social policy. Maria Theresa had Buda and
Hungary. The rebellion was brutally crushed. became part of the to Catholic Habsburg rule grew. Angered Pest rebuilt, and built most of the Habsburg
Shaken by the peasant revolt, the Diet of Habsburg Empire. The by the persecution of Protestants and Royal Palace (see pp58–9) and a floating yet
1514 passed laws that condemned the serfs Austrian king directly A 16th-century insufficient action against the Turks, permanent bridge across the Danube.
to eternal bondage. Corporal punishment controlled Habsburg Ottoman coat an outright rebellion in 1664 failed to Joseph II was even more radical. He
became widespread, and one noble even Hungary’s financial, overthrow the Habs burgs. Instead, Emperor curbed the power of the Church, disbanding
branded his serfs like livestock. The laws military and foreign affairs, and imperial Leopold I suppressed the Hungarian monastic orders, and introduced tax reforms
were included in the Tripartitum of 1514, a troops guarded its borders. Central Hungary constitution, and ruled Habsburg Hungary that limited the powers of the Hungarian
document that gave Hungary’s king and became a province of the Ottoman Empire. from Vienna. Protes tantism was viciously aristocracy. He also made German the
nobles, or magnates, equal shares of power: The Turks ruling in Buda were interested repressed. Hungarian discontent deepened official language, but he died young, in 1790,
the nobles recognized the king as superior, mainly in squeezing as much wealth from still further, until 1681, when Imre Thököly, and many of his reforms died with him.
but in turn they had the power to elect and the land as quickly as possible. However, the a Tran sylvanian nobleman, led a more
remove him. The Tripartitum also freed the successful rebellion against the Habsburgs,
nobles from taxation, and many of their forcing Leopold to restore Hungary’s
military obligations. constitution. It was during these internal
When Ulászló II died in 1516, his 10-year- conflicts that the Turks attacked Austria, only
old son Louis II (1516–26) became king, to be almost wiped out entirely near Vienna
though a royal council in effect ruled the in 1683. A Western campaign then gradually
country. End less quarrels among the drove the Turks from all of Hungary, and the
noblemen of the Diet weakened the country, Ottoman government finally surrendered
however, and the Turkish ruler Sultan its Hungarian possessions at the Peace of
Suleyman the Magnificent attacked Hungary The liberation of Buda in 1686, painting by Gyula Benczúr (1896) Karlowitz in 1699. The return of the Crown to Buda (1790)
1780 Joseph II
1541 Hungary is partitioned 1566 Siege of Szigetvar. 1664 Habsburgs 1683 Turks attack Habsburgs but (1780–90)
between the Turks and the Ottoman Emperor Suley- rout a Turkish are routed near Vienna. succeeds his
Habsburgs. Transylvania becomes man the Magnificent army at St Gott 1686 Christian troops enter Buda. mother, Maria
an Ottoman vassal state. (Suleyman I) is killed. Ottoman tablet hard in Hungary. Order created by Theresa; he enacts
with calligraphy Turkish rule in Hungary ends. Maria Theresa further reform.
1625
1500 1525 1550 1575 1600 1625 1650 1675 1700 1725 1750 1775
1681 Hungarians rebel 1699 Turks lose almost all 1740 Maria Theresa 1792 Coronation of
1591 Habsburgs 1606 Protestants in against Habsburg rule. Hungarian possessions in (1740–80) becomes Ferenc I (1792–1835),
1526 Turks defeat
weakened Hungary invade Transylvania are Peace of Karlowitz, which Habsburg Empress, who repeals many of the
at Mohács. Transylvania. granted the right 1684 Start of ultimately successful formally ends partition. and institutes social reforms carried out by
Sword of to worship. Siege of Buda by Habsburgs. reform. his predecessors.
Ulászló II
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THE HIST OR Y OF HUNGAR Y 45
Turks practised religious Habsburg rule
tolerance, giving Hungarians After the expulsion of the Turks,
living within the empire the Austrians colonized Hun
significant autonomy. gary with Germans, which led
Transylvania became to an antiHabsburg revolt in
an Ottoman vassal state. 1703–11. It was put down and
It functioned as an the leader, Tran sylv anian prince
independent country, ruled Ferenc Rákóczi, was forced
by local princes who paid a into exile, yet the Habs burgs
tribute to the Turks. But the guaranteed constitutional
princes’ increasing auto Ottoman Campaign Tent, taken during the independence for Hungary
nomy angered the Turks, Siege of Vienna, 1683 and restored noble privileges.
who routed their armies in Peace and prosperity followed,
1660 and took control of Transylvania. first under Empress Maria Theresa (1740–80)
and later her son, Joseph II (1780–90).
Reunification Enlightened absolutists, they strengthened
Hungary’s aristocracy was increasingly their empire by pursuing a more humane
dominated by Protestants and opposition social policy. Maria Theresa had Buda and
to Catholic Habsburg rule grew. Angered Pest rebuilt, and built most of the Habsburg
by the persecution of Protestants and Royal Palace (see pp58–9) and a floating yet
insufficient action against the Turks, permanent bridge across the Danube.
an outright rebellion in 1664 failed to Joseph II was even more radical. He
overthrow the Habs burgs. Instead, Emperor curbed the power of the Church, disbanding
Leopold I suppressed the Hungarian monastic orders, and introduced tax reforms
constitution, and ruled Habsburg Hungary that limited the powers of the Hungarian
from Vienna. Protes tantism was viciously aristocracy. He also made German the
repressed. Hungarian discontent deepened official language, but he died young, in 1790,
still further, until 1681, when Imre Thököly, and many of his reforms died with him.
a Tran sylvanian nobleman, led a more
successful rebellion against the Habsburgs,
forcing Leopold to restore Hungary’s
constitution. It was during these internal
conflicts that the Turks attacked Austria, only
to be almost wiped out entirely near Vienna
in 1683. A Western campaign then gradually
drove the Turks from all of Hungary, and the
Ottoman government finally surrendered
its Hungarian possessions at the Peace of
Karlowitz in 1699. The return of the Crown to Buda (1790)
1780 Joseph II
1664 Habsburgs 1683 Turks attack Habsburgs but (1780–90)
rout a Turkish are routed near Vienna. succeeds his
army at St Gott mother, Maria
hard in Hungary. 1686 Christian troops enter Buda. Order created by Theresa; he enacts
Turkish rule in Hungary ends. Maria Theresa further reform.
1625 1650 1675 1700 1725 1750 1775
1681 Hungarians rebel 1699 Turks lose almost all 1740 Maria Theresa 1792 Coronation of
against Habsburg rule. Hungarian possessions in (1740–80) becomes Ferenc I (1792–1835),
Peace of Karlowitz, which Habsburg Empress, who repeals many of the
1684 Start of ultimately successful formally ends partition. and institutes social reforms carried out by
Siege of Buda by Habsburgs. reform. his predecessors.
044-051_EW_Hungary.indd 45 18/09/17 3:39 pm
46 INTRODUCING HUNGAR Y THE HIST OR Y OF HUNGAR Y 47
permanent bridge across the Danube, once Emperor Franz Joseph of Austria,
the Chain Bridge. Lajos Kossuth, another and King Ferenc József of Hungary. Half
outstanding Hungarian of the era, called a century of progress followed, crowned
Széchenyi the greatest Hungarian. when Budapest hosted the Millennium
In 1847, Kossuth formally established the Exhibition in 1896.
The Founding of the Academy, bas-relief by Barnabás Holló Opposition Party, an umbrella organization
that sought Hungarian independence. On War, Regency and Holocaust
National Revival 15 March 1848, during a tumultuous spring In World War I, hundreds of thousands
Ferenc I (1792–1835) was far more – when the whole of Europe seemed to of Hungarians died fighting with the
conservative than Joseph II. It was during explode in revolution – Sándor Petőfi, one Germans and Austrians. After defeat in Deportation of Hungarian Jews in World War II
his reign, however, that the Hungarian of the greatest Hungarian poets, read his 1918, a revolution broke out in Budapest
aristocracy first began to promote the Twelve Points manifesto for liberal reform in October. A republic was proclaimed, Horthy committed forces to the invasion of
ideas of liberalism, and with them a from the steps of the National Museum. headed by Count Mihály Károlyi. He was first Yugoslavia, then the Soviet Union. Many
national consciousness. The donation of Vienna initially agreed to talks, but after the overthrown by Bolsheviks, led by Béla Hungarians were killed on the Eastern Front.
a substantial arts collection to the state Austrians had quelled their own revolt in Kun, in March 1919. Kun proclaimed When Horthy tried to negotiate a separate
at this time enabled the foundation of a Septem ber, they confronted the Hun garian the Communist Hungarian Republic of peace with the Allies, Hitler replaced him
Hungarian national library and museum. reformers, and armed conflict lasting almost Councils, and killed all those who opposed with the Hungarian Nazi Arrow Cross party.
Many noblemen supplemented their a year ensued. The fate of the reformers its policies. Only the intervention of The first Hungarian Jews had been
income from civil occupations, and was finally sealed by an alliance between Romanian troops, led by Hungarian Admiral deported in June 1941, on the orders of
formed a genuine political movement. Emperor Franz Joseph I and Russian Tsar Miklós Horthy, ended the “Red Terror”. prime minister László Bárdossy de Bárdos,
Probably their greatest champion was Alexander II. A 200,000-strong Russian In the Treaty of Trianon in 1920, vast areas who believed that this act would keep
István Széchenyi, a liberal nobleman who force quickly defeated the Hungarians, of Hun gary were awarded to Romania, the German troops out of Hungary. In the
believed that the prime cause of Hungary’s who surrendered on 13 August 1849. new state of Yugoslavia and Czechoslovakia. summer of 1942, however, Horthy replaced
relative back wardness was the feudal Horthy became regent. His two decades Bárdossy with the less viciously anti-Semitic
system rather than subordination to Absolutism and Compromise in power were marked by economic and Miklós Kállay. Kállay did not repeal any of
Vienna. Széchenyi was also associated Hungary was now entirely subsumed by social stagnation, as well as fierce anti- Bárdossy’s legislation, but he prevented
with the foundation of the Hungarian the Habsburg Empire. The political elite, Semitism. When war broke out in 1939, any further large-scale deportations of
Academy of Sciences, the advent of rail led by diplomat Ferenc Deák, could offer Hitler offered Hungary half of Transylvania as Jews. After the German invasion of March
transport and the construction of the first little more than passive resistance. Deák reward for siding with Germany, and in 1941 1944, Kállay was himself sent to Dachau
managed to keep the dialogue with Vienna concentration camp in one of the last
open. By 1866, when Austria had become deportations of Jews, Gypsies and political
isolated internationally after a series of criminals. SS chief Adolf Eichmann oversaw
wars, Vienna was ready to talk about the deportations in Hungary. By August
some kind of compromise. 1944, when Horthy put a stop to them,
Deák led the Hungarian delegation, and 440,000 Jews had gone, mainly to
the Habsburg Empire agreed to transform Auschwitz, despite the efforts of Raoul
itself into a federation. The parts of the Wallen berg and others (see p79). Indeed,
federation, Austria and Hungary, would a third of all those killed at Auschwitz
Lajos Kossuth’s speech during the revolution of 1848 be equal and separate, with the emperor at Signing of the Treaty of Trianon at Versailles, 1920 throughout the war were Hungarian Jews.
1802 Count Ferenc Széchényi donation 1847 Lajos Kossuth forms the 1920 Hungary signs the Treaty of 1941 Hungary joins the war on the side
forms the basis of the Széchényi National Opposition Party, which openly 1867 After defeat by Russia 1896 Continental Europe’s first Trianon, and is at a stroke stripped of the Axis Powers, ostensibly to recover
Library and Hungarian National Museum. calls for independence. a weak Austria accepts a underground railway opens in of more than half its territory. territory lost in 1920.
compromise, and Budapest. The city hosts a massive
1817 The first steamboat 1846 Hungary’s first rail way Hungarian independence exhibition to celebrate the 1916 Charles IV is crowned King 1939 Hungary declares neutrality at
sails on the Danube. links Pest with Vác. in the Dual Monarchy. Hungarian Millennium. of Hungary. the outbreak of World War II.
1850
1800 1825 1850 1875 1900 1925
1808 The Embellish- 1809 The Habsburg Royal Court 1848 The Hungarian Uprising against 1873 Buda, Óbuda Buda, Óbuda 1919 Brief Bolshevik 1944 Germany invades Hungary,
1873
ment Commission is moves to Buda as Napoleon the Habsburgs begins on 15 March and P rule under Béla Kun is Horthy is replaced by Ferenc Szálasi,
and Pest merge to est merge to
established, led advances across Europe. He after poet Sándor Petőfi reads his f form a single city: orm a single city: ended by Admiral the leader of the Arrow Cross, a
by Governor offers independence but the Twelve Points from the steps of the Budapest. Béla Kun, Miklós Horthy. Hungarian Nazi organization. The
Budapest.
Archduke Joseph. Hungarians side with Vienna. Poet Sándor National Museum. politician and subsequent Holocaust costs nearly half
Petőfi (1823–49) revolutionary of all Jews their lives.
044-051_EW_Hungary.indd 46 18/09/17 3:39 pm 044-051_EW_Hungary.indd 47 18/09/17 3:39 pm
THE HIST OR Y OF HUNGAR Y 47
once Emperor Franz Joseph of Austria,
and King Ferenc József of Hungary. Half
a century of progress followed, crowned
when Budapest hosted the Millennium
Exhibition in 1896.
War, Regency and Holocaust
In World War I, hundreds of thousands
of Hungarians died fighting with the
Germans and Austrians. After defeat in Deportation of Hungarian Jews in World War II
1918, a revolution broke out in Budapest
in October. A republic was proclaimed, Horthy committed forces to the invasion of
headed by Count Mihály Károlyi. He was first Yugoslavia, then the Soviet Union. Many
overthrown by Bolsheviks, led by Béla Hungarians were killed on the Eastern Front.
Kun, in March 1919. Kun proclaimed When Horthy tried to negotiate a separate
the Communist Hungarian Republic of peace with the Allies, Hitler replaced him
Councils, and killed all those who opposed with the Hungarian Nazi Arrow Cross party.
its policies. Only the intervention of The first Hungarian Jews had been
Romanian troops, led by Hungarian Admiral deported in June 1941, on the orders of
Miklós Horthy, ended the “Red Terror”. prime minister László Bárdossy de Bárdos,
In the Treaty of Trianon in 1920, vast areas who believed that this act would keep
of Hun gary were awarded to Romania, the German troops out of Hungary. In the
new state of Yugoslavia and Czechoslovakia. summer of 1942, however, Horthy replaced
Horthy became regent. His two decades Bárdossy with the less viciously anti-Semitic
in power were marked by economic and Miklós Kállay. Kállay did not repeal any of
social stagnation, as well as fierce anti- Bárdossy’s legislation, but he prevented
Semitism. When war broke out in 1939, any further large-scale deportations of
Hitler offered Hungary half of Transylvania as Jews. After the German invasion of March
reward for siding with Germany, and in 1941 1944, Kállay was himself sent to Dachau
concentration camp in one of the last
deportations of Jews, Gypsies and political
criminals. SS chief Adolf Eichmann oversaw
the deportations in Hungary. By August
1944, when Horthy put a stop to them,
440,000 Jews had gone, mainly to
Auschwitz, despite the efforts of Raoul
Wallen berg and others (see p79). Indeed,
a third of all those killed at Auschwitz
Signing of the Treaty of Trianon at Versailles, 1920 throughout the war were Hungarian Jews.
1920 Hungary signs the Treaty of 1941 Hungary joins the war on the side
1896 Continental Europe’s first Trianon, and is at a stroke stripped of the Axis Powers, ostensibly to recover
underground railway opens in of more than half its territory. territory lost in 1920.
Budapest. The city hosts a massive
exhibition to celebrate the 1916 Charles IV is crowned King 1939 Hungary declares neutrality at
Hungarian Millennium. of Hungary. the outbreak of World War II.
1850 1875 1900 1925
1873 Buda, Óbuda 1919 Brief Bolshevik 1944 Germany invades Hungary,
and Pest merge to rule under Béla Kun is Horthy is replaced by Ferenc Szálasi,
form a single city: ended by Admiral the leader of the Arrow Cross, a
Budapest. Béla Kun, Miklós Horthy. Hungarian Nazi organization. The
politician and subsequent Holocaust costs nearly half
revolutionary of all Jews their lives.
044-051_EW_Hungary.indd 47 18/09/17 3:39 pm
48 INTRODUCING HUNGAR Y THE HIST OR Y OF HUNGAR Y 49
the government, but the head of the
Roman Catholic Church, Cardinal József The 1956 Hungarian Revolution
Mindszenty, resisted. The government On the morning of 23 October, students and workers unhappy with falling living standards
arrested him in December 1948 and marched on Radio Hungary in Budapest, in a bid to broadcast a list of demands, which
sentenced him to life imprisonment. included the immediate withdrawal of all Soviet troops stationed in Hungary. Actively
Shortly after, the regime disbanded supported by sections of the Hungarian army, the revolutionaries attacked the AVH (secret
most Catholic religious orders and police) and Soviet soldiers, and the revolt spread nationwide. The Hungarian Communist
secularized Catholic schools. Party, fearing total collapse, gave in to a number of demands, and on 27 October invited
Between 1948 and 1953 Mátyás Rákosi Imre Nagy to form a new government. However, on 4 November, thousands more Soviet
led a brutal regime that reorganized the troops invaded Hungary and, despite fierce resistance, quickly crushed the revolution.
economy. In a campaign reminiscent of
the Soviet Union’s forced collectivization
Cardinal Mindszenty accused of treason and espionage in the 1930s, the regime compelled most
peasants to join collective farms and
Sovietization required them to make deliveries to the
The parliamentary elections in 1945 were government at prices lower than the cost
won by the Independent Small holders’ of produc tion. Hundreds of thousands
Party, supported by a wide spectrum of were deported, arrested and executed.
Hungarian society. How ever, the occupying
Soviet Union enforced a coalition with Revolution
the Social Democrats, the National Peasant The terror eased slightly after Stalin’s death
Party and the Communists. New elections in 1953, when Rákosi was ousted and
in 1947 were rigged, the Communists Imre Nagy became prime minister. Nagy
claiming a massive victory. By the end of embarked on reform until the return of
1948 all other political parties had been Rákosi in 1955. Rákosi attempted to reinsti
outlawed, or forced to merge with the tute a Red Terror. He was forced to resign Revolutionaries with
Com munists in the Hungarian Workers in July 1956 and replaced by Ernő Gerő. On Captured Soviet Tank
Party (HWP). In 1949, after an 23 October antiSoviet crowds For a short time, the revolution ar ies
election in which only HWP protested in Budapest. Nagy unquestionably had the upper hand
candidates were allowed, was reappointed. He dissolved and initially Soviet troops stationed in
Hungary offered little resistance. It is
Hungary was declared a the state security police, abol thought that some troops even sided
People’s Republic. ished the oneparty system with the revolution. How ever, when the
The Church became the main and promised free elections. Soviet army invaded on 4 November, it The enormous statue of Stalin that stood in
source of opposition to the On 1 November Hun gary did so to brutal effect, and an estimated Budapest’s City Park (Városliget) was iconoclastically
200,000 Hungarians fled the country
HWP. The government confis announced neutrality and as refugees. torn down on 24 October by revolutionaries and
perhaps defines the finest moment of the revolution.
cated church property and withdrawal from the Warsaw
nationalized church schools. Pact. On 4 November the
Protestant church leaders Mátyás Rákosi, Soviet Union invaded and Imre Nagy
reached a compromise with Hungarian prime minister crushed the revolution.
Captured by the Russians in World War I, Imre Nagy (1856–1958) fell
in with Russian Communists and emigrated to Russia at the war’s end.
Avoiding Stalin’s purges of the 1920s and 1930s, he became a leading
1947 The 1953 The reformminded Imre Nagy becomes 1957 János
Communists win prime minister, but lasts only two years before 1955 Hungary is Kádár figure in the Communist international, the Comintern, and in 1944 was
rigged elections, and being dismissed. In November Hungary’s football a founding becomes sent to accompany the Red Army as it invaded Hungary. He became
outlaw all other team is the first from mainland Europe to defeat member of the Hungarian the Hungarian prime minister in 1953 and pursued a reformist agenda
political parties. England in London; the score is 6–3. Warsaw Pact. leader. during his two-years in office. Following the uprising, Nagy briefly
returned to office in 1956, but after the Soviet invasion he was betrayed
1945 1950 1955 by one of his closest friends, Romanian Communist Walter Roman.
He was arrested and taken to Snagov Monastery, near Bucharest in
1945 The Germans 1956 Nagy is reinstated. When he Bronze statue of Romania, where he was questioned, tried on camera, and then executed
abandon Hungary to the announces Hungary’s withdrawal from Imre Nagy, Budapest in Budapest in 1958.
Russians in April 1945. Imre Nagy the Warsaw Pact, Soviet forces invade and
(1896–1958) arrest him. He is executed in 1958.
044-051_EW_Hungary.indd 48 18/09/17 3:39 pm 044-051_EW_Hungary.indd 49 18/09/17 3:39 pm
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The ideal travel companion, full of insider advice on what to see and do, plus detailed itineraries and
comprehensive maps for exploring Hungary.
Experience luxurious spas, wander the historic Castle District in Budapest or explore the immense Hortobágy
National Park: everything you need to know is clearly laid out within colour-coded chapters. Discover the
best of Hungary with this indispensable travel guide.
Inside DK Eyewitness Travel Guide Hungary:
- Over 30 colour maps help you navigate with ease
- Simple layout makes it easy to find the information you need
- Comprehensive tours and itineraries of Hungary, designed for every interest and budget
- Illustrations and floorplans show the inside of the Royal Palace of Gödölló, St Stephen's Basilica, Esztergom Basilica, Pannonhalma Abbey, Budapest's striking Memento Park and more
- Colour photographs of vibrant cities, historic churches and castles, pretty rural towns, spectacular
architecture, serene countryside and more
- Detailed chapters, with area maps, cover Budapest, Szentendre, Esztergom, Northern Transdanubia,
Székesfehérvár, the Bakony, Sopron, Pécs, Southern Transdanubia and the Northern Highlands
- Historical and cultural context gives you a richer travel experience: learn about Hungary's history, way of life, architecture, diverse cuisine, festivals and events, thermal springs and baths, winemaking tradition and more
- Essential travel tips: our expert choices of where to stay, eat, shop and sightsee, plus useful phrases, and transport, visa and health information
DK Eyewitness Travel Guide Hungary is a detailed, easy-to-use guide designed to help you get the most from
your visit to Hungary.
About DK Eyewitness Travel: DK's highly visual Eyewitness guides show you what others only tell you, with
easy-to-read maps, tips, and tours to inform and enrich your holiday. DK is the world's leading illustrated
reference publisher, producing beautifully designed books for adults and children in over 120 countries.
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