(DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Hungary

ESZTERGOM  149


. Dome/Cupola VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
A steep flight of
steps leads up to Practical Information
the dome’s viewing Szent István tér 1. Road Map C3.
platform, from Tel (33) 40 23 54. Open Cathedral:
where there are Mar: 8am–5pm daily; Apr: to 6pm;
superb views over May–Aug: to 7pm; Sep & Oct: to
Eszter gom and the 6pm; Nov & Dec: to 4pm. Cupola
Danu be Bend – and & Bell Tower: Mar: 9am–5pm daily;
Stúrovo in Slovakia on Apr: to 6pm; May–Aug: to 7pm;
the northern bank. Sep & Oct: to 6pm; Nov & Dec: to
4pm. Treasury: Mar–Oct: 9am–
4:30pm daily; Nov & Dec: 11am–
3:30pm Tue–Fri, 10am–3:30pm
Sat & Sun. Crypt: Mar–Oct: 9am–
4:30pm; Nov & Dec: 10am–2:30pm
daily. & 8 7 ^ Treasury,
Crypt. 0 _ Jun–Aug.
Transport
£ @ 4











Basilica
Esztergom Basilica is distinguished by its
outer simplicity and inner beauty. A grand
but plain façade gives way to priceless
treasures and superbly rich decoration.













. Bakócz Chapel
The red-marble Bakócz chapel
opens to the basilica’s nave.
Built in Florentine Renaissance
style, it is named after Cardinal
Tamás Bakócz (c.1442–1521),
who is laid to rest here.

Entrance Primates of All Hungary
Main entrance Former archbishops commemorated in
statuary include the 15th-century Dénes
Szécsi (left) and the 19th- century János
Simor, whose vast, private Christian art
collection formed the basis of the
Esztergom Christian Museum (see pp146-7.




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HUNGAR Y REGION B Y REGION  151

NORTHERN

TRANSDANUBIA


For centuries, Northern Transdanubia was Hungary’s
golden triangle, the conduit in trade and commerce
between the twin capitals of Vienna and Budapest; it was
where the empire’s greatest families built their mansions with profits made
in the region’s factories. Recently, tourism has surpassed industry as a main
source of income, with Bük’s thermal baths and Lake Fertő the main attractions.


Much of the western part of this region One of Hungary’s most historic complexes,
is classic frontier territory. The Őrség its Benedictine monks resisted all invasions
region, Kőszeg, Szentgotthárd and Sopron, and tests of their faith. The abbey at Zirc,
Hungary’s most westerly city, were for further south, is no less important.
centuries bulwarks against invaders. In recent times the west of the region has
Nowhere else in Hungary is it more seen a determined search for oil. Although
apparent that Austria and Hungary were some oil has been found, many probes
once parts of the same empire. Sopron, in found little except hot water; indeed, the
fact, is closer to Vienna than to Budapest – springs that serve the thermal resort of
its street signs are often in German and Bükfürdő were discovered this way.
well-dressed Viennese throng its charming The east of Transdanubia includes
old town. Further south, in Szombathely, Székesfehérvár, where for 500 years
German as well as Hungarian can be Hungarian kings and queens were
heard, and, at the popular Lake Fertő, crowned, and Lake Velence, a quiet spot
Hungarians are outnumbered by visitors and a favourite with all nature-lovers.
in summer. Yet this is proudly Hungary. The real natural wonder of Northern
Close to Győr, a city of legends that is as Transdanubia, however, is the Bakony
far from Vienna as it is from Buda pest, is Forest, which offers some of the most
the astonishing abbey of Pannonhalma. spectacular driving routes in the country.























A verdant landscape in the rolling Northern Transdanubia hills
The Firewatch Tower on the corner of the town hall, Sopron



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HUNGAR Y REGION B Y REGION  151

NORTHERN

TRANSDANUBIA


For centuries, Northern Transdanubia was Hungary’s
golden triangle, the conduit in trade and commerce
between the twin capitals of Vienna and Budapest; it was
where the empire’s greatest families built their mansions with profits made
in the region’s factories. Recently, tourism has surpassed industry as a main
source of income, with Bük’s thermal baths and Lake Fertő the main attractions.


Much of the western part of this region One of Hungary’s most historic complexes,
is classic frontier territory. The Őrség its Benedictine monks resisted all invasions
region, Kőszeg, Szentgotthárd and Sopron, and tests of their faith. The abbey at Zirc,
Hungary’s most westerly city, were for further south, is no less important.
centuries bulwarks against invaders. In recent times the west of the region has
Nowhere else in Hungary is it more seen a determined search for oil. Although
apparent that Austria and Hungary were some oil has been found, many probes
once parts of the same empire. Sopron, in found little except hot water; indeed, the
fact, is closer to Vienna than to Budapest – springs that serve the thermal resort of
its street signs are often in German and Bükfürdő were discovered this way.
well-dressed Viennese throng its charming The east of Transdanubia includes
old town. Further south, in Szombathely, Székesfehérvár, where for 500 years
German as well as Hungarian can be Hungarian kings and queens were
heard, and, at the popular Lake Fertő, crowned, and Lake Velence, a quiet spot
Hungarians are outnumbered by visitors and a favourite with all nature-lovers.
in summer. Yet this is proudly Hungary. The real natural wonder of Northern
Close to Győr, a city of legends that is as Transdanubia, however, is the Bakony
far from Vienna as it is from Buda pest, is Forest, which offers some of the most
the astonishing abbey of Pannonhalma. spectacular driving routes in the country.























A verdant landscape in the rolling Northern Transdanubia hills
The Firewatch Tower on the corner of the town hall, Sopron



Hun_150-151_Regional_Intro.indd 151 17/02/2015 12:52

152  HUNGAR Y REGION B Y REGION NOR THERN TR ANSD ANUBIA  153


Exploring Northern Transdanubia Getting Around
The M1 motorway between Budapest and Vienna
The most varied region of Hungary, Northern Transdanubia is provides quick access to Northern Transdanubia, and
characterized by its gentle hills, green valleys, lush forests and is ideal for exploring the places in this chapter,
beautiful imperial towns, including Székesfehérvár, one of the BratislavaBratislava including Győr, Tata, Mosonmagyaróvár and Lake
Fertő. High-speed trains run between Budapest and
country’s archi tectural gems. There is also the historic town of Vienna, many of which stop at Győr. Slower, local
Kőszeg to see, the fortress-like Pannon halma Mona stery to services serve other towns and cities in the region.
explore, the thermal waters of Sárvár and Bük and Lake Fertő ViennaVienna From Győr, there are good roads – but poor rail
to relax in, as well as the vineyards around Pápa to visit. and bus services – to the western cities of
MOSONMAGYARÓVÁRMOSONMAGYARÓVÁR Zalaergerszeg and Szombathely. Bas-relief on the Széchenyi Mansion in Nagycenk

JánossomorjaJánossomorja Mosoni-Duna
FERTŐRÁKOS
FERTŐRÁKOS NeusiedlerNeusiedler
SeeSee Duna (Danube) LábatlanLábatlan EsztergomEsztergom
Duna (Danube)
Mosoni-Duna
SOPRONSOPRON FERTŐ-HANSÁGFERTŐ-HANSÁG Rábca GYŐRGYŐR KOMÁROMKOMÁROM
Rábca
Répce
NATIONAL PARKNATIONAL PARK Répce
NAGYCENKNAGYCENK KAPUVÁRKAPUVÁR CSORNACSORNA MénfőcsanakMénfőcsanak PérPér TATATATA BudapestBudapest
FERTŐDFERTŐD KOMÁROM-KOMÁROM- TatabányaTatabánya
GYOR-MOSON- SOPRON
GYOR-MOSON- SOPRON ESZTERGOMESZTERGOM
TétTét PANNONHALMAPANNONHALMA KisbérKisbér BudapestBudapest
SzanySzany OroszlányOroszlány BicskeBicske
RépcelakRépcelak
BÜKBÜK CsákvárCsákvár
KŐSZEGKŐSZEG Rába Rába FenyőfőFenyőfő MórMór TárnokTárnok
Marcal
Marcal PÁPAPÁPA Cuha Gaja MARTONVÁSÁRMARTONVÁSÁR BudapestBudapest
Gaja
Cuha
SZOMBATHELYSZOMBATHELY BAKONY
CelldömölkCelldömölk FOREST ZIRCZIRC
BAKONY
SÁRVÁRSÁRVÁR SZÉKESFEHÉRVÁRSZÉKESFEHÉRVÁR
FOREST
VA SVA S VESZPRÉMVESZPRÉM VárpalotaVárpalota VELENCEIVELENCEI
JÁKJÁK LAKELAKE
The Trinity Column in Fő tér in Sopron, JánosházaJánosháza VeszprémVeszprém Puszta-Puszta-
celebrating relief from the plague VeszprémVeszprém szabolcsszabolcs
AjkaAjka Duna (D anube)
VasvárVasvár PolgárdiPolgárdi TÁCTÁC
KörmendKörmend SárosdSárosd
Duna (D anube)
SÜMEGSÜMEG SiófokSiófok FEJÉRFEJÉR
SzentgotthárdSzentgotthárd
DunaújvárosDunaújváros
ZalaszentgrótZalaszentgrót EnyingEnying
SzalafőSzalafő
KeszthelyKeszthely SárbogárdSárbogárd
ŐRSEG REGION
ŐRSEG REGION
ŐriszentpéterŐriszentpéter ZalalövőZalalövő ZALAEGERSZEGZALAEGERSZEG
0 kilometres 20 Sió CeceCece
Sió
KeszthelyKeszthely
BakBak 0 miles 20 SimontornyaSimontornya
Kerka
Kerka
DombóvárDombóvár
SzekszárdSzekszárd
ZALAZALA
LentiLenti
Key Principális-cs. Principális-cs. Sights at a Glance q Őrség Region a Fertőd
s Kapuvár
w Ják
Motorway SiófokSiófok 1 Martonvásár
2 Lake Velence e Szombathely d Csorna
Major road 3 Székesfehérvár pp156–9 r Sárvár f Mosonmagyaróvár
Mura LetenyeLetenye
Secondary road Mura 4 Tác t Bük g Győr pp178–9
Minor road NAGYKANIZSANAGYKANIZSA h Pannonhalma pp180–81
ZagrebZagreb 5 Zirc y Kőszeg pp168–9
Main railway 6 Pápa u Nagycenk j Komárom
Minor railway KaposvárKaposvár 8 Sümeg i Sopron pp172–5 k Tata
International border 9 Zalaegerszeg o Fertő-Hanság National Park Tour
Regional border 0 Nagykanizsa p Fertőrákos 7 Bakony Forest pp160–61
For hotels and restaurants see pp264–269 and pp276–285 For additional keys to symbols see back flap
Hun_152-153_Expl.indd 152 17/02/2015 12:52 Hun_152-153_Expl.indd 153 17/02/2015 12:52

NOR THERN TR ANSD ANUBIA  153

Getting Around
The M1 motorway between Budapest and Vienna
provides quick access to Northern Transdanubia, and
is ideal for exploring the places in this chapter,
Bratislava including Győr, Tata, Mosonmagyaróvár and Lake
Fertő. High-speed trains run between Budapest and
Vienna, many of which stop at Győr. Slower, local
services serve other towns and cities in the region.
From Győr, there are good roads – but poor rail
Vienna
and bus services – to the western cities of
MOSONMAGYARÓVÁR Zalaergerszeg and Szombathely. Bas-relief on the Széchenyi Mansion in Nagycenk

Jánossomorja Mosoni-Duna
FERTŐRÁKOS Neusiedler
See Duna (Danube) Lábatlan Esztergom
SOPRON FERTŐ-HANSÁG Rábca GYŐR KOMÁROM
NATIONAL PARK Répce
NAGYCENK KAPUVÁR CSORNA Ménfőcsanak Pér TATA Budapest
FERTŐD KOMÁROM- Tatabánya
GYOR-MOSON- SOPRON ESZTERGOM
Tét PANNONHALMA Kisbér Budapest
Szany Oroszlány Bicske
Répcelak
BÜK Csákvár
KŐSZEG Rába Fenyőfő Mór Tárnok
Marcal PÁPA Cuha Gaja MARTONVÁSÁR Budapest
SZOMBATHELY BAKONY
Celldömölk FOREST ZIRC
SÁRVÁR SZÉKESFEHÉRVÁR
VA S VESZPRÉM Várpalota VELENCEI
JÁK LAKE
Jánosháza Veszprém Puszta-
Veszprém szabolcs
Ajka Duna (D anube)
Vasvár Polgárdi TÁC
Körmend Sárosd
SÜMEG Siófok FEJÉR
Szentgotthárd
Dunaújváros
Zalaszentgrót Enying
Szalafő
Keszthely Sárbogárd
ŐRSEG REGION
Őriszentpéter Zalalövő ZALAEGERSZEG
0 kilometres 20 Sió Cece
Keszthely
Bak 0 miles 20 Simontornya
Kerka
Dombóvár
Szekszárd
ZALA
Principális-cs. Sights at a Glance q Őrség Region a Fertőd
Lenti
1 Martonvásár
Siófok
d Csorna
e Szombathely
2 Lake Velence w Ják s Kapuvár
3 Székesfehérvár pp156–9 r Sárvár f Mosonmagyaróvár
Mura Letenye g Győr pp178–9
NAGYKANIZSA 4 Tác t Bük h Pannonhalma pp180–81
Zagreb 5 Zirc y Kőszeg pp168–9 j Komárom
6 Pápa u Nagycenk
Kaposvár k Tata
8 Sümeg i Sopron pp172–5
9 Zalaegerszeg o Fertő-Hanság National Park Tour
0 Nagykanizsa p Fertőrákos 7 Bakony Forest pp160–61
For additional keys to symbols see back flap
Hun_152-153_Expl.indd 153 17/02/2015 12:52

154  HUNGAR Y REGION B Y REGION NOR THERN TR ANSD ANUBIA  155


though all offer a variety of major attractions. While it is 6 Pápa
places to stay. Agárd is the possible with the naked eye 51 km (32 miles) northwest of Vesz­
most developed, and has an to make out the shapes of prém. Road Map B3. * 34,000.
excellent thermal bath com plex. houses, the theatre and the £ from Budapest, Tatabánya, Győr.
Most non-Hungarian visitors forum, the guidebook available @ from Tatabánya, Veszprém. n
to Velence head for the western from the ticket office is a must Tourinform, Márton István utca 10, (89)
shore. More than 30,000 birds to understand how it all worked. 77 70 47. ∑ papa.hu
spend the spring here, nesting Digs continue: unearthed
in the marshes and reeds. treasure (including pottery, An important fortified town first
Species to be spotted include coins, masonry and weaponry) mentioned in 1051, Pápa was held
spoonbills, herons and geese. is displayed in a small museum by the Turks from 1594 to 1683. It
Since 1958 the lake has been by the entrance. There are Greek fell into decline after being razed
a protected bird reserve. The and Roman plays and other by fire in 1685. In the 18th century
Tourinform office in Gárdony can performances held as part of Façade of the Zirc Cistercian Abbey, home it was rebuilt and found new pur­
put birdwatchers in touch with the ancient Floralia and Ludi to the Reguly Antal Library pose in 24 watermills driven by the
Brunswick Mansion in Martonvásár, housing a small Beethoven Museum local tour groups and guides. Romani festivals. Details are Tapolca river. The mills served
1 Martonvásár 2 Lake Velence available from the Tourinform from 1750. The altar paintings the corn, textile and paper
and frescoes inside are the work
industries of the region. Pápa’s
office in Székesfehérvár.
30 km (19 miles) southwest of 50 km (31 miles) southwest of 3 Székesfehérvár of Franz Anton Maul bertsch. two most important sights stem
Budapest. Road Map C3. * 5,500. Budapest. Road Map C4. £ from See pp156–9. T Gorsium Open-Air Museum The most visited part of the from this boom period.
£ from Budapest. @ from Budapest to Velence or Gárdony. Fő utca 6, Tác. Tel (22) 31 55 83. abbey, however, is its Reguly The Esterházy Palace
Budapest. @ from Budapest to Velence or Open Apr–Oct: 10am–6pm daily; Antal Library, complete with (Esterházy Kastély), on Fő tér,
Gárdony. n Tourinform, Szabadság 4 Tác Nov–Mar: 10am–4pm daily. & 7 80,000 volumes kept on lush, was constructed in 1783–4 by
The village of Martonvásár has út 24, Gárdony, (22) 57 00 77; Halász cherrywood bookshelves. József Grossmann for Count
existed since medieval times, utca 37, Velence, (22) 47 03 02. 11 km (7 miles) south of Székes fe- The abbey is also home Ferenc. Baroque in style, it was
but its principal attraction is hérvár. Road Map C4. * 1,500. to the Bakony Natural History badly damaged in World War II
Brunswick Mansion. Towards Velence means “Venice” in @ from Székesfehérvár. _ Floralia Museum, with exhibitions and neglected under the
the end of the 18th century, the Hungarian, although there Festival (late Apr–early May), Ludi on the flora and fauna of Communists. Guided tours take
entire village was bought by the similarities end. Romani Festival (mid-Aug–mid-Sep). the Bakony hills and forest. visitors through the renovated
the German Bruns wick family, A shallow body of In the town of Zirc itself is an baroque rooms and halls.
and the original Baroque water with no islands, On a vast site a 10-minute walk extensive arboretum, with more The giant Great Church of
palace was built Lake Velence is popular outside the tiny village of Tác than 60 kinds of trees and shrubs, St Stephen, built in 1774–86
for Antal Brunswick. with day-trippers from are the impressive remains of including an over 400­ year­old to designs by Jakab Fellner,
A century later, Budapest. It is less the Roman city of Herculia. oak tree. The Reguly Antal dominates everything.
in 1875, it was crowded than Uncovered during excavation Museum, a small but interesting After Fellner’s death, József
totally rebuilt, Lake Balaton, work in 1934–9, Herculia began exhibition, is dedicated to the Gross mann completed the
this time in the attracting mainly life in the 1st century AD as a life of the early 20th­century work. The statue above the
Neo-Gothic style. anglers and swim- military base called Gorsium, pioneer in Finno­Ugric gable and the frescoes inside
While the house mers, the latter growing in size and importance linguistics and explorer. feature St Stephen the Martyr.
is closed to the Piano in the Beethoven enjoying the to become the capital of the
public, the superb Memorial Museum warm water (up to province of Valeria (Lower Excavated Roman ruins, at the Gorsium R Zirc Cistercian Abbey P Esterházy Palace
parklands can 26° C/80° F in high Pannonia) by the 3rd century. Open-Air Museum in Tác Rákóczi tér 1. Tel (88) 59 36 75. Fő tér 1. Open Apr–Oct: 10am–6pm
be enjoyed by visitors. summer). Three small beach Set up as the Gorsium Open 9am–5pm Tue–Sun. & 8 Tue–Sun; Nov–Mar: 9am–5pm Tue–
The estate’s church, built in resorts on the eastern shore, Open-Air Museum (Gorsium 5 Zirc ∑ zirciapatsag.hu Sun. ∑ esterhazykastely.papa.hu
1775, is largely unaltered. Its Velence, Gárdony and Agárd, Szabadtéri Múzeum in Régé szeti
inter ior is decorated with more or less blend into each Park) since 1962, the site is well 51 km (32 miles) northwest of
well- preserved frescoes. other. None has any great charm, cared for though lacking in Veszprém. Road Map B3. * 7,500.
Ludwig van Beethoven was £ from Veszprém, Győr. @ from
a regular visitor to the original Veszprém. n Tourinform, József Attila
mansion and gave music les- utca 1, (88) 41 68 16.
sons to the daughters. Some
rooms adjoining the mansion The small town of Zirc, on the
now house a small Beet hoven northern fringes of the Bakony
Memorial Museum (Beet hoven Forest (see pp160–61) is
Emlék múzeum). dominated by its Cister cian
Abbey (Római katolikus
P Brunswick Mansion cisztercita templom, Nagy­
Brunszvick utca 2. Open (park only) boldo gasszony). Standing on
8am–5pm daily (to 4pm winter). a hill above the town, at an
& 7 altitude of 400 m (1,312 ft), the
E Beethoven Memorial Museum abbey was founded as early
Brunszvick utca 2. Tel (22) 56 95 00. as 1182, although the current
Open 10am–noon, 2–4pm Tue–Fri, complex (including the twin­
10am–noon, 1–4pm Sat & Sun. & 7 The mooring jetties on Lake Velence, popular with visitors from Budapest spired Baroque basilica) dates Statue of a lion outside the Esterházy Palace in Pápa
For hotels and restaurants see pp264–269 and pp276–285


154-155_EW_Hungary.indd 154 18/09/17 3:40 pm 154-155_EW_Hungary.indd 155 18/09/17 3:40 pm

NOR THERN TR ANSD ANUBIA  155


major attractions. While it is 6 Pápa
possible with the naked eye 51 km (32 miles) northwest of Vesz­
to make out the shapes of prém. Road Map B3. * 34,000.
houses, the theatre and the £ from Budapest, Tatabánya, Győr.
forum, the guidebook available @ from Tatabánya, Veszprém. n
from the ticket office is a must Tourinform, Márton István utca 10, (89)
to understand how it all worked. 77 70 47. ∑ papa.hu
Digs continue: unearthed
treasure (including pottery, An important fortified town first
coins, masonry and weaponry) mentioned in 1051, Pápa was held
is displayed in a small museum by the Turks from 1594 to 1683. It
by the entrance. There are Greek fell into decline after being razed
and Roman plays and other by fire in 1685. In the 18th century
performances held as part of Façade of the Zirc Cistercian Abbey, home it was rebuilt and found new pur­
the ancient Floralia and Ludi to the Reguly Antal Library pose in 24 watermills driven by the
Romani festivals. Details are Tapolca river. The mills served
available from the Tourinform from 1750. The altar paintings the corn, textile and paper
office in Székesfehérvár. and frescoes inside are the work industries of the region. Pápa’s
of Franz Anton Maul bertsch. two most important sights stem
T Gorsium Open-Air Museum The most visited part of the from this boom period.
Fő utca 6, Tác. Tel (22) 31 55 83. abbey, however, is its Reguly The Esterházy Palace
Open Apr–Oct: 10am–6pm daily; Antal Library, complete with (Esterházy Kastély), on Fő tér,
Nov–Mar: 10am–4pm daily. & 7 80,000 volumes kept on lush, was constructed in 1783–4 by
cherrywood bookshelves. József Grossmann for Count
The abbey is also home Ferenc. Baroque in style, it was
to the Bakony Natural History badly damaged in World War II
Museum, with exhibitions and neglected under the
on the flora and fauna of Communists. Guided tours take
the Bakony hills and forest. visitors through the renovated
In the town of Zirc itself is an baroque rooms and halls.
extensive arboretum, with more The giant Great Church of
than 60 kinds of trees and shrubs, St Stephen, built in 1774–86
including an over 400­ year­old to designs by Jakab Fellner,
oak tree. The Reguly Antal dominates everything.
Museum, a small but interesting After Fellner’s death, József
exhibition, is dedicated to the Gross mann completed the
life of the early 20th­century work. The statue above the
pioneer in Finno­Ugric gable and the frescoes inside
linguistics and explorer. feature St Stephen the Martyr.
Excavated Roman ruins, at the Gorsium R Zirc Cistercian Abbey P Esterházy Palace
Open-Air Museum in Tác Rákóczi tér 1. Tel (88) 59 36 75. Fő tér 1. Open Apr–Oct: 10am–6pm
Open 9am–5pm Tue–Sun. & 8 Tue–Sun; Nov–Mar: 9am–5pm Tue–
∑ zirciapatsag.hu Sun. ∑ esterhazykastely.papa.hu
5 Zirc
51 km (32 miles) northwest of
Veszprém. Road Map B3. * 7,500.
£ from Veszprém, Győr. @ from
Veszprém. n Tourinform, József Attila
utca 1, (88) 41 68 16.
The small town of Zirc, on the
northern fringes of the Bakony
Forest (see pp160–61) is
dominated by its Cister cian
Abbey (Római katolikus
cisztercita templom, Nagy­
boldo gasszony). Standing on
a hill above the town, at an
altitude of 400 m (1,312 ft), the
abbey was founded as early
as 1182, although the current
complex (including the twin­
spired Baroque basilica) dates Statue of a lion outside the Esterházy Palace in Pápa




154-155_EW_Hungary.indd 155 18/09/17 3:40 pm

156  HUNGAR Y REGION B Y REGION SZÉKESFEHÉR V ÁR  157

3 Street-by-Street: Székesfehérvár Deák Black Eagle Pharmacy Museum
Collection Hundreds of old medicine VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
The cobbled, car-free streets of the old town in Town Hall bottles and an amazing Practical Information
Székesfehérvár are packed with historically and Székesfehérvár’s frescoed ceiling adorn this 60 km (37 miles) SW of Budapest.
18th-century town
Baroque pharmacy, which
religiously significant buildings. For 500 years hall was originally operated until 1971. Road Map C4. * 99,000.
n Tourinform, Oskola utca 2–4,
this was the location of Hungary’s coronation built as a palace for (22) 53 72 61. ( daily, Piac tér.
church; the sarcophagus of the country’s first the Zichy family. ∑ szekesfehervar.hu
Christian king, St István, is still here today. As Transport
one of the last stands of the German Army Hetedhét Toy £ from Buda pest. @ from
Museum and
during World War II took place in these streets, Hiemer-House Budapest. Piac tér.
it is little short of a miracle that the medieval
and Baroque buildings sur rounding Városház tér
survive. Around them everything was destroyed A A
O S K O L A U T C A
– hence the bland feel of the rest of the city. U U T C T C

O S K O L A U T C A

.St Anne’s Chapel
Dating from the A A I I
15th century, St Anne’s Ó Ó K K J U H Á S Z U T C
Chapel is the only part of J J J U H Á S Z U T C A A F Ő U T C A
medieval Székesfehérvár
to have survived the
Turkish occupation.
Cistercian Church and
L A K A T O S U T C A
Monastery
The Baroque 18th-century altar
V ÁROSHÁ Z V ÁROSHÁ Z fresco in this church was painted
TÉRTÉR by local artists under the
direction of the German-born
painter Caspar Franz Sambach.
A A
. St István’s C C
Cathedral T T
The entrance to U U
the cathedral was A H H
remodelled in the C T T U U
1770s by Franz Anton U T S S
Hilde brandt. The . S S O O
statues above the A J K K
door are of István, C T Y
László and Imre. U A N
R
Z A Garden of Ruins
Á
H The vast size of the Royal
E Basilica and burial chapel that
Y once stood here can be easily
G
E imagined by tracing the
M outline of the ruins.
Clockwork

Key
Budenz Suggested route
Carmelite Monastery House
The magnificent altar (1768), . Bishop’s Palace
featuring scenes from the life of the 0 metres 50 The Baroque palace, designed by Jakob
Virgin Mary, is the work of Viennese Rieder, was built in 1801 using stone taken
master Franz Anton Maulbertsch. 0 yards 50 mainly from the ruins of the Royal Basilica.
For hotels and restaurants see pp264–269 and pp276–285


Hun_156-157_SS.indd 156 17/02/2015 12:52 Hun_156-157_SS.indd 157 17/02/2015 12:52

SZÉKESFEHÉR V ÁR  157

Deák Black Eagle Pharmacy Museum
Collection VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Hundreds of old medicine
bottles and an amazing Practical Information
frescoed ceiling adorn this 60 km (37 miles) SW of Budapest.
Baroque pharmacy, which Road Map C4. * 99,000.
operated until 1971. n Tourinform, Oskola utca 2–4,
(22) 53 72 61. ( daily, Piac tér.
∑ szekesfehervar.hu
Transport
£ from Buda pest. @ from
Budapest. Piac tér.

A
T C
U

O S K O L A U T C A



I
A
K
F Ő U T C A
Ó J U H Á S Z U T C A
J
Cistercian Church and
L A K A T O S U T C A
Monastery
The Baroque 18th-century altar
V ÁROSHÁ Z fresco in this church was painted
TÉR by local artists under the
direction of the German-born
painter Caspar Franz Sambach.

A
C
T
U

H
T
U
S
S
O
K
Garden of Ruins
The vast size of the Royal
Basilica and burial chapel that
once stood here can be easily
imagined by tracing the
outline of the ruins.




Key
Suggested route
. Bishop’s Palace
The Baroque palace, designed by Jakob
Rieder, was built in 1801 using stone taken
mainly from the ruins of the Royal Basilica.




Hun_156-157_SS.indd 157 17/02/2015 12:52

158  HUNGAR Y REGION B Y REGION SZÉKESFEHÉR V ÁR  159

Exploring Székesfehérvár P Hiemer-House soldiers and castles and other area and of Székesfehérvár’s Serb
Hiemer-Ház toys, which have all been community, of its traders and
Around 897, the Magyar chieftain Árpád (see p39) created Oskola utca 2–4. Tel (22) 53 72 61. assembled by Éva Moskovszky, a crafts men, with exhibitions on
a permanent settlement, and with it the first Hungarian Open by arrangement only. 7 retired librarian of the Hungarian shoemakers, leather-workers and
town, on the Székesfehérvár plain. Prince Géza, his great- The Hiemer House, with its National Museum. The detail and furriers. Also on Rác utca is the
grandson, built a castle here in 972, and St István, Géza’s Baroque-Rococo main façade, opulence of these toys are aston- Ráctemplom, the single-nave Serb
son, erected a vast basilica. The walled city that grew up consists of three medieval ishing – the dolls wear genuine church, a Baroque 18th- century
around it was the site of Hun gary’s Diet, or Parliament, buildings on Hungary’s National pearl necklaces and the tiny building with colour ful, fully
homes, copies of homes built
restored icons. Many of them
Heritage list. One building,
for 500 years, until the Turks occupied the city and the adjoining Jókai Street, once between 1800 and 1930, are had been hidden by soot for the
inhabitants fled in 1543. Székesfehérvár flourished in functioned as a parsonage; immacu lately furnished with real best part of a century.
the 1800s and 1900s. In World War II much of the town was another, the Font house, was Herend porcelain (see p207). Even
destroyed, but the historic centre (see pp156–7) was spared. a school and store. The Caraffa the clocks on the doll’s house + Bory Castle
building was a combination walls are in full working order. Bory Vár
of school, flats and stores. One Máriavölgy út 54. Tel (22) 30 55 70.
E St István Király Museum E Deák Collection part of the complex houses the R Carmelite Church Open Mar–mid-Oct: 9am–5pm daily;
Szent István Király Múzeum Városi Képtár Deák-gyűjtemény Hetedhét Toy Museum (below). Karmelita templom late Oct–mid-Nov: 9am–4pm daily.
Fő utca 6. Tel (22) 31 55 83. Oskola utca 10. Tel (22) 32 94 31. Petőfi Sándor utca 2. Open Apr–mid- Detail on the clock at No. 9 Kossuth Street Closed late Nov–Feb. & ∑ bory-
Open 10am– 6pm daily. & 8 Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun. & 7 Oct: 9am–6pm Tue–Sun. 7 var.hu
German and Hungarian only. An overview of the history of Not fully completed until 1769, clock is the focal point of a The most-visited sight in
∑ szikm.hu modern Hungarian art, Dénes the church was designed by colourful Secessionist house Székesfehérvár is the whim sical
The friary of the Cistercian Deák’s (1931–93) collection an anonymous architect. The that has become increasingly Bory Castle, built over two
church (see p157) houses a features early 20th-century Carmelites were so des perate hemmed in by the less inter- decades by the sculptor and
collection of artifacts from artists Rippl-Rónai and Gulácsy, for a place to worship that esting build ings sur rounding it. architect Jenő Bory (1879–1959).
the Fejér region. The earliest modern European School artists they began holding their The interior of the building can Construc tion first began in the
exhibits go back as far as the Imre Ámos and Margit Anna services in the unfinished (but be visited by prior arrangement. mid-1920s, when Bory had a
Neolithic Age, and there is and Tihamér Gyarmathy’s consecrated) church in 1732, a group of his students build him
also a signifi cant collection con temporary abstract art. year after construction began, E Open-Air Ethnographical a small cottage and plant a
of Roman treasure. The most Sculpture and graphic art are when the building was little Museum vineyard. He then added various
recent finds include parts of also represented. more than a shell. The exterior Palotavárosi Skanzen parts to it, the designs becoming
the sarcophagus of St István, is Baroque, with a single, Rác utca 11. Tel (22) 31 55 83. gradually more colourful and
most of which is in the Gar den R St István’s Cathedral modest tower. The real glory Open by arrangement. & 8 7 daring, until, at the time of his
of Ruins (see p157). The friary Szent István Székesegyház of the church, however, are Unlike other village museums in death, the cottage had grown
itself was built at the same time Arany János utca 9. Tel (22) 31 the colourful, dramatic ceiling Hungary, which are usually located into a veritable fantasy land,
as the church, and completed 51 14. Open Apr–mid-Oct: 9am– Exhibits from the Hetedhét Toy Museum, frescoes inside, most of which outside towns, Palotavárosi is set part Roman forum, part Gothic
in 1751. It first housed Jesuit, 5pm Tue–Sun. displaying fascinating detail are the work of Franz Anton close to the city centre, in the castle, with touches of just
then Franciscan, and finally Béla IV founded this church, Maulbertsch, a native of Vienna suburbs of Székesfehérvár. Visitors about every other archi tectural
Cistercian monks. The museum later renovated in Baroque style, E Hetedhét Toy Museum who worked on a number of entering the cobbled streets of style thrown in. Some of the
has temporary exhibitions at in which parts of the original Hetedhét Játékmúzeum churches in the area around the museum (which for centuries castle’s rooms exhibit Bory’s
the Cere monial Hall, Hungarian coronation ceremony Oskola utca 2-4. Tel (22) 20 26 01. Lake Balaton. He also painted was the Rácváros, or Serb area of sculptures, as well as paintings
Országzászló tér 3. took place. After 1777 it became Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun. & the altar and the crucifix in the city) find themselves in a lost by his wife, Ilona Komócsin,
a cathedral and its prominent The museum, located in part of the oratory. The ceiling frescoes world. At No. 11 Rác utca, a small also responsible for most of
E Black Eagle Pharmacy twin towers were added. The the Hiemer-House (above), holds were damaged during a museum tells the story of the the exterior art.
Museum statues show István, László and Hungary’s largest collection of minor earthquake in 1800,
Fekete Sas Patikamúzeum Imre. The city’s coat of arms sits dolls (mainly from the 18th- and suffered further during
Fő utca 5. Tel (22) 31 55 83. above the main portal. century), plus doll’s houses, tin the Napoleonic wars when the
Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun. 7 church was transformed into
The city’s pharmacy moved a hospital. They were restored
into this elegant two-storey during the 1950s. Outside the
Baroque house in 1774. It church, set into the southern
remained open for business wall, is a statue of Louis the
until as late as 1971, when Great, the work of Hungarian
it was bought by the State sculptor Ödön Moiret.
and renovated and reopened
as a museum two years later. P Clockwork
The museum has a collection Órajáték
of old medicine bottles and Kossuth utca 9. 7
medical imple ments, but The vivid and playful clock in the
much more interesting small pedestrian square behind
are the colourful frescoes No. 9 Kossuth Street chimes every
on the arched ceiling, and 2 hours from spring to autumn,
the gorgeously intricate while small figures dressed as
original wooden fixtures and hussars march by every two
fittings dating from 1758. Interior of St István’s Cathedral, with ceiling frescoes by Johannes Cymbal hours from 10am to 6pm. The The romantic Bory Castle, a blend of architectural styles
For hotels and restaurants see pp264–269 and pp276–285


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SZÉKESFEHÉR V ÁR  159


soldiers and castles and other area and of Székesfehérvár’s Serb
toys, which have all been community, of its traders and
assembled by Éva Moskovszky, a crafts men, with exhibitions on
retired librarian of the Hungarian shoemakers, leather-workers and
National Museum. The detail and furriers. Also on Rác utca is the
opulence of these toys are aston- Ráctemplom, the single-nave Serb
ishing – the dolls wear genuine church, a Baroque 18th- century
pearl necklaces and the tiny building with colour ful, fully
homes, copies of homes built restored icons. Many of them
between 1800 and 1930, are had been hidden by soot for the
immacu lately furnished with real best part of a century.
Herend porcelain (see p207). Even
the clocks on the doll’s house + Bory Castle
walls are in full working order. Bory Vár
Máriavölgy út 54. Tel (22) 30 55 70.
R Carmelite Church Open Mar–mid-Oct: 9am–5pm daily;
Karmelita templom late Oct–mid-Nov: 9am–4pm daily.
Petőfi Sándor utca 2. Open Apr–mid- Detail on the clock at No. 9 Kossuth Street Closed late Nov–Feb. & ∑ bory-
Oct: 9am–6pm Tue–Sun. 7 var.hu
Not fully completed until 1769, clock is the focal point of a The most-visited sight in
the church was designed by colourful Secessionist house Székesfehérvár is the whim sical
an anonymous architect. The that has become increasingly Bory Castle, built over two
Carmelites were so des perate hemmed in by the less inter- decades by the sculptor and
for a place to worship that esting build ings sur rounding it. architect Jenő Bory (1879–1959).
they began holding their The interior of the building can Construc tion first began in the
services in the unfinished (but be visited by prior arrangement. mid-1920s, when Bory had a
consecrated) church in 1732, a group of his students build him
year after construction began, E Open-Air Ethnographical a small cottage and plant a
when the building was little Museum vineyard. He then added various
more than a shell. The exterior Palotavárosi Skanzen parts to it, the designs becoming
is Baroque, with a single, Rác utca 11. Tel (22) 31 55 83. gradually more colourful and
modest tower. The real glory Open by arrangement. & 8 7 daring, until, at the time of his
of the church, however, are Unlike other village museums in death, the cottage had grown
the colourful, dramatic ceiling Hungary, which are usually located into a veritable fantasy land,
frescoes inside, most of which outside towns, Palotavárosi is set part Roman forum, part Gothic
are the work of Franz Anton close to the city centre, in the castle, with touches of just
Maulbertsch, a native of Vienna suburbs of Székesfehérvár. Visitors about every other archi tectural
who worked on a number of entering the cobbled streets of style thrown in. Some of the
churches in the area around the museum (which for centuries castle’s rooms exhibit Bory’s
Lake Balaton. He also painted was the Rácváros, or Serb area of sculptures, as well as paintings
the altar and the crucifix in the city) find themselves in a lost by his wife, Ilona Komócsin,
the oratory. The ceiling frescoes world. At No. 11 Rác utca, a small also responsible for most of
were damaged during a museum tells the story of the the exterior art.
minor earthquake in 1800,
and suffered further during
the Napoleonic wars when the
church was transformed into
a hospital. They were restored
during the 1950s. Outside the
church, set into the southern
wall, is a statue of Louis the
Great, the work of Hungarian
sculptor Ödön Moiret.
P Clockwork
Órajáték
Kossuth utca 9. 7
The vivid and playful clock in the
small pedestrian square behind
No. 9 Kossuth Street chimes every
2 hours from spring to autumn,
while small figures dressed as
hussars march by every two
hours from 10am to 6pm. The The romantic Bory Castle, a blend of architectural styles




158-159_EW_Hungary.indd 159 18/09/17 3:40 pm

160  HUNGAR Y REGION B Y REGION NOR THERN TR ANSD ANUBIA  161


7 A Tour Around the Bakony
5 Bakonykoppány 4 Kőris-hegy Tips for Drivers
An easy hiking trail
The Bakony refers to the volcanic mountain range that rises A centre of the Bakony takes walkers from Tour length: 130 km (81 miles)
behind the northern shore of Lake Balaton, as well as to the dense wine-making industry, Bakonybél at the foot All the roads on the tour are in
the area is famous for its
forests that cover the hills and valleys of the region, stretching full-bodied white wines. of the hill up to the good condition, though the
from Balaton in the south as far as Pannonhalma Abbey in the Visitors should look out for summit of Kőris-hegy; minor routes from Zirc to Pápa
and from Ajka to Herend get very
at 704 m (2,309 ft), the
north. Dotted with vineyards and old wine-press houses, it is one the wine-press houses, highest of the Bakony narrow and twisty in places.
of the most scenic parts of Hungary. It Győr which are dotted amongst hills. The path leads Stopping-off points: Zirc, with
the vineyards.
was devastated during the Turkish back down to Zirc on its museum, Cistercian Abbey
withdrawal from Hungary in the Csót the other side. and arboretum, is a good choice
for a short stop, while the larger
17th century, and resettled and busier town of Pápa, with its
with Saxons from Germany 3 Bakonybél pretty historic centre, offers a
in the 18th century. Many Nagygyimót Béb The gently sloping, grassy hills above the pretty wealth of choices for lunch.
village of Bakonybél are accessible via a number
of the villages today have Pápa of well-marked hiking trails, and make superb
a distinctly Germanic feel. Borsosgyőr Bakonyszücs spots for picnic lunches.
Ugod 2 Zirc
J
Famous for its large
6 Pápa Cistercian Abbey, Zirc is
The Viennese Kéttornyúlak Győr also home to the
artist Johann Ignaz Bakony Natural
Mildorfer is resp- Tapolcafő Borzavár History Museum.
onsible for the beautiful Cuha
ceiling fresco found at the Pápa- Tapolca Nagyesztergár
Esterházy Palace Chapel. kovácsi
The town is also known for its Tündérmajor J
rich, royal blue cloth, made here Zirc
by the Kluge family since 1783, for Gerence
seven generations until 1956. Ganna Iharkút
Gerence
Döbrönte Pénzesgyőr Akli Olaszfalu
7 Bakonyjákó Németbánya
Set in a picture-postcard spot, this village was one of many
in the Bakony that was popular with German settlers in the Farkasgyepű
18th century. Many of the houses are typically Saxon, set at Lókút Eplény
a right angle to the main road. Középső-HajagKözépső-Hajag
646 m646 m
Hárskút
8 Városlőd Csehbánya
At the meeting point of the Northern and Magyarpolány
Southern Bakony stand the ruins of the
11th-century Hölgykő Castle, destroyed
by the Turks in the 16th century. 1 Veszprém
Városlőd was repopulated by German Bakonygyepes Hungary’s best-pre served
settlers in the 18th century. Kislőd Gyulafirátót castle district rises above
Ajkarendek one of the country’s most
Herend Székesfehérvár,
Körmend Torna Budapest pros perous cities. With
Márkó many fine restaurants, this
Szentgál Kádárta is a good place to start and
Séd end the tour.
9 Ajka
Fine handmade glass, crystal and
porcelain have been produced in Veszprém 0 kilometres 5
Ajka since German settlers set up 0 miles 5
a factory here in 1878. Although Padragkút
the factory itself is not open to
the public, there are two
shops in the village selling Key
wares made at the factory. q Herend
The hand-painted porcelain Motorway
0 Úrkút made here is famous the Tour route
The route from Ajka to Herend, passing through world over. Visitors may visit
Úrkút and the Szentgál Valley, is one of the most the museum and exhibitions, Major road
scenic in Hungary, offering up a wealth of and also watch some of the 600 Other road
gentle hills and wonderful views. artists who work here in action. Main railway
For hotels and restaurants see pp264–269 and pp276–285 For keys to symbols see back flap
Hun_160-161_Tour.indd 160 17/02/2015 12:52 Hun_160-161_Tour.indd 161 17/02/2015 12:52

NOR THERN TR ANSD ANUBIA  161



4 Kőris-hegy Tips for Drivers
An easy hiking trail
takes walkers from Tour length: 130 km (81 miles)
Bakonybél at the foot All the roads on the tour are in
of the hill up to the good condition, though the
summit of Kőris-hegy; minor routes from Zirc to Pápa
at 704 m (2,309 ft), the and from Ajka to Herend get very
highest of the Bakony narrow and twisty in places.
hills. The path leads Stopping-off points: Zirc, with
back down to Zirc on its museum, Cistercian Abbey
the other side. and arboretum, is a good choice
for a short stop, while the larger
and busier town of Pápa, with its
3 Bakonybél pretty historic centre, offers a
The gently sloping, grassy hills above the pretty wealth of choices for lunch.
village of Bakonybél are accessible via a number
of well-marked hiking trails, and make superb
spots for picnic lunches.
2 Zirc
J
Famous for its large
Cistercian Abbey, Zirc is
Győr also home to the
Bakony Natural
Borzavár
History Museum.
Cuha
Nagyesztergár
Tündérmajor J
Zirc
Gerence
Pénzesgyőr Akli Olaszfalu

Eplény
Lókút
Középső-Hajag
646 m
Hárskút


1 Veszprém
Hungary’s best-pre served
Gyulafirátót
castle district rises above
one of the country’s most
Herend Székesfehérvár, pros perous cities. With
Budapest
Márkó many fine restaurants, this
Szentgál Kádárta is a good place to start and
Séd end the tour.
0 kilometres 5
Veszprém
0 miles 5

Key
q Herend
The hand-painted porcelain Motorway
made here is famous the Tour route
world over. Visitors may visit
the museum and exhibitions, Major road
and also watch some of the 600 Other road
artists who work here in action. Main railway

For keys to symbols see back flap


Hun_160-161_Tour.indd 161 17/02/2015 12:52

162  HUNGAR Y REGION B Y REGION NOR THERN TR ANSD ANUBIA  163

8 Sümeg Zalaegerszeg’s city centre is (Őrségi Népi Műem léke gyüttes).
43 km (27 miles) north of Keszthely. brightened up by the former Here, visitors can see an Őrség
Road Map B4. * 7,000. £ from synagogue, today a concert house as it would have looked
Keszthely, Tapolca. @ from Keszthely, and exhibition hall. Designed in the early 19th century,
Zalaegerszeg. n Tourinform, Kossuth by József Stern, its bright and complete with cooking utensils
Lajos utca 15, (20) 417 63 46. lively motifs betray its late and other domestic items.
Secession-era construction Other settlements worth visiting
This pretty town has been (1904), though the two domes are Velemér, which has a
inhabited since Roman times add a little religious dignity. 14th­century church with fine
and is dominated by its castle, frescoes, and Hegyhátszent­
which sits atop the 270-m- E Göcseji Village Museum & jakab, where visitors can admire
(885-ft-) high Castle Hill. Sümeg Finno-Ugric Ethnographical a splendid medieval church.
Castle (Sümeg Vár), first built in Museum Nearby, Lake Vadása is
the 13th century though almost Falumúzeum utca. Tel (92) 70 32 95. popular with swimmers and
completely reconstructed in Open Apr–Oct: 10am–6pm Tue–Sun; anglers. On the northern
the 16th, is one of the best Nov–Mar: 10am–4pm Tue–Sat. & 8 borders of the Őrség are two
preserved in Hungary. It houses Hungarian. 7 ∑ gocsejiskanzen.hu towns of note: Szentgotthárd
an exhibition on the town’s Decorative elements on the former and Körmend. Both are good
history, weapons, and coaches, synagogue in Zalaegerszeg Őriszentpéter, the largest of the villages in the Őrség region access points for the Őrség, and
as well as a hair-raisingly realistic both have attractions of their
torture chamber. During the 9 Zalaegerszeg q Őrség Region is rightly proud of its own: Körmend is home to the
summer there are lively re- 44 km (27 miles) east of Keszthely. 50 km (31 miles) west of Zala eger szeg. 13th­century Romanesque Baroque Batthány Mansion
enactments of historic battles, Road Map A4. * 60,000. £ from Road Map A4. £ to Szent gotthárd St Peter Church, at Templomszer built for the family in the
jousting contests and medieval Budapest. @ from Keszthely. from Körmend. @ to Őriszentpéter 15. It is almost entirely original, 17th century. A small part of
dancing in the courtyard. n Tourinform, Széchenyi tér 4–6, Őrség from Szentgotthárd and containing fragments of the building is open to visitors.
Tourinform will have details (92) 31 61 60. ( Piac tér, daily. Körmend. n Tourinform Őrség, Siska­ 16th­century frescoes, which, At Szentgotthárd the ceiling
of performances. ∑ zalaegerszegturizmus.hu szer 26A, Őriszentpéter, (94) 54 80 34. given the number of fires frescoes of the Cistercian
The town’s main attraction, that have plagued the village Monastery Church, painted
however, is the Roman Cath olic Zalaegerszeg, capital of the Since the 10th century and the over time, is little short in 1785 by István Dorfmeister,
Church of the Ascension Zala region and Hun gary’s first Magyar excursions into of miraculous. are outstanding.
(built 1756–7) on Bíró Márton leading oil town, has a number the region, the Őrség has been Six km (4 miles) away, Szalafő
utca. Though unspectacular of attractions that make a stop a frontier land, populated by is the second­largest village in E Szalafő Open­Air
from outside, inside it has a here worthwhile. The first is Statue of Sándor Petőfi and a soldier, hardy warriors who swore to the region, consisting of six Ethnographical Museum
series of frescoes by Austrian the Göcseji Village Museum in Nagykanizsa defend Hungary’s borders in szers. The largest of these is Pityerszer 12. Tel (94) 54 80 34. Open
Franz Anton Maulbertsch, a (Göcseji Falumúzeum), the exchange for a lifetime’s tax today the Szalafő Open­Air Apr–Oct: 10am–5pm daily (to 6pm
leading figure in late Baroque oldest such in Hungary, 0 Nagykanizsa exemption. Covered in lush Ethno graphical Museum Jun–Aug). & 8 Hungarian only. 7
art. The frescoes, perhaps his located on a tran quil back 50 km (23 miles) south of Zala eger- forests, the gently sloping
greatest work, were painted in water of the River Zala. Set szeg. Road Map A5. * 53,000. £ hills of the Őrség – today
1757–8 and tell the story of the up in 1968, it displays more from Budapest. @ from Keszthely, designated a National Park –
gospel, from the Annun ciation than 40 buildings, brought Zalaegerszeg. n Tour inform, were traditionally sprinkled
below the organ gallery to the here from 22 nearby villages. Csengery utca 1–3, (93) 31 32 85. with small hilltop settlements,
Ascension in the dome. The famous Nodding Jennies never comprising more than
are part of the Museum of the Originally a castle town, 10 houses. Some 18 of these
+ Sümeg Castle Hungarian Petroleum Industry, Nagykanizsa found wealth in settlements remain, almost all of
Tel (87) 35 27 37 or (30) 625 70 03. the second significant oil and the late 17th century first as a which are beautifully preserved,
Open daily, subject to weather. & gas museum in Europe. cattle-trading town, then in the many containing wooden
late 19th century as a hub for houses with characteristic
food processing. The city centre overhanging roofs, dating
around Szabadság tér was built back to the 13th century. The
over the site of the castle, used settlements, called szers, all
as a mosque by the Turks and follow the same pattern: the
destroyed by the Habsburgs in houses are grouped around
1705. The fountain in the middle a courtyard, in the middle of
of the square marks the former which are stables.
castle entrance. The Baroque The largest of the Őrség
Catholic church, on Zárda utca, villages is Őriszentpéter, which
was built in 1702–14 using in June hosts the Őrség Fair,
remnants of the castle. The a weekend of folk music, craft
city’s Neo-Classical synagogue, fairs and traditional dancing
at Fő utca 6, built in 1807–10, competitions. Őriszentpéter
is being restored. In the is, in fact, a collection of
middle of Déak tér is a statue timber and thatched szers
of the Hungarian poet Sándor that came together to form
Courtyard of Sümeg Castle, now the site of re-enactments of medieval battles Petőfi (1823–49). one community. The village The grand façade of the 17th-century Batthány Mansion in Körmend
For hotels and restaurants see pp264–269 and pp276–285 The library at Pannonhalma Abbey, a magnificent repository of Hungarian scholarship


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NOR THERN TR ANSD ANUBIA  163


(Őrségi Népi Műem léke gyüttes).
Here, visitors can see an Őrség
house as it would have looked
in the early 19th century,
complete with cooking utensils
and other domestic items.
Other settlements worth visiting
are Velemér, which has a
14th­century church with fine
frescoes, and Hegyhátszent­
jakab, where visitors can admire
a splendid medieval church.
Nearby, Lake Vadása is
popular with swimmers and
anglers. On the northern
borders of the Őrség are two
towns of note: Szentgotthárd
and Körmend. Both are good
Őriszentpéter, the largest of the villages in the Őrség region access points for the Őrség, and
both have attractions of their
q Őrség Region is rightly proud of its own: Körmend is home to the
13th­century Romanesque Baroque Batthány Mansion
50 km (31 miles) west of Zala eger szeg. St Peter Church, at Templomszer built for the family in the
Road Map A4. £ to Szent gotthárd
from Körmend. @ to Őriszentpéter 15. It is almost entirely original, 17th century. A small part of
Őrség from Szentgotthárd and containing fragments of the building is open to visitors.
Körmend. n Tourinform Őrség, Siska­ 16th­century frescoes, which, At Szentgotthárd the ceiling
szer 26A, Őriszentpéter, (94) 54 80 34. given the number of fires frescoes of the Cistercian
that have plagued the village Monastery Church, painted
Since the 10th century and the over time, is little short in 1785 by István Dorfmeister,
first Magyar excursions into of miraculous. are outstanding.
the region, the Őrség has been Six km (4 miles) away, Szalafő
a frontier land, populated by is the second­largest village in E Szalafő Open­Air
hardy warriors who swore to the region, consisting of six Ethnographical Museum
defend Hungary’s borders in szers. The largest of these is Pityerszer 12. Tel (94) 54 80 34. Open
exchange for a lifetime’s tax today the Szalafő Open­Air Apr–Oct: 10am–5pm daily (to 6pm
exemption. Covered in lush Ethno graphical Museum Jun–Aug). & 8 Hungarian only. 7
forests, the gently sloping
hills of the Őrség – today
designated a National Park –
were traditionally sprinkled
with small hilltop settlements,
never comprising more than
10 houses. Some 18 of these
settlements remain, almost all of
which are beautifully preserved,
many containing wooden
houses with characteristic
overhanging roofs, dating
back to the 13th century. The
settlements, called szers, all
follow the same pattern: the
houses are grouped around
a courtyard, in the middle of
which are stables.
The largest of the Őrség
villages is Őriszentpéter, which
in June hosts the Őrség Fair,
a weekend of folk music, craft
fairs and traditional dancing
competitions. Őriszentpéter
is, in fact, a collection of
timber and thatched szers
that came together to form
one community. The village The grand façade of the 17th-century Batthány Mansion in Körmend
The library at Pannonhalma Abbey, a magnificent repository of Hungarian scholarship



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166  HUNGAR Y REGION B Y REGION NOR THERN TR ANSD ANUBIA  167


collection of ecclesiastical family, who bought the town in
art. Another room contains 1534. Patriarch Tamás Nádasdy
a series of frescoes by István brought in Italian architects to
Dorfmeister based on life in create a genuine Renais sance
ancient Savaria. master piece, which, with
A short walk from the various additions, survives more
cathedral is Fő tér, today or less intact to the present day.
the main centre of the city Much of the castle is given
and a shopper’s paradise that over to the Ferenc Nádasdy
is popular with mothers and Museum, the highlight of which
children. There are further are two series of frescoes:
Roman ruins at the Iseum Ruin 17th­century works showing
Garden on Batthány tér, featuring the Hungarians in battle with
a temple to the goddess Isis, the Turks and scenes from the
believed to be one of only three Old Testa ment painted by István
ever found in Europe. Next door Dorfmeister in 1769. There are
is the Szombathely Gallery. In also exhibitions of the family’s
The impressive hilltop Benedictine abbey church in Ják May, when more than 50 kinds and town’s histories, regional
w Ják e Szombathely of rhodo dendron are in full folk art and period furniture. One of the outdoor pools at the Bükfürdő Health and Adventure Centre
bloom, the Kámoni Arbor etum
The castle is reached via a long
12 km (7 miles) south of Szom bathely. 101 km (60 miles) southwest of Győr. north of the city centre is well stone bridge over what was t Bük disorders, and the grounds are
Road Map A4. * 2,400. @ from Road Map A3. * 115,000. £ from worth a visit. once a moat. 24km (15 miles) northeast of Szom­ well laid out with grassy areas,
Szombathely. Sopron, Győr. @ from Zalaergeszeg. In 1961, during a search for bathely. Road Map A3. * 3,100. children’s play grounds, snack
n Tourinform, Király utca 1/A, (94) 31 oil (see below), hot springs £ from Szombathely, Sopron. @ bars and restaurants. A fair­sized
The Benedictine St George’s 72 69. _ Bartók Classical Music (44 °C/111 °F) were found in from Szombathely. n Tourinform, resort has also grown up around
Abbey Church (Jáki Szent Festival (Jul); Savaria Carnival (Aug). Sárvár, and the Sárvár Spa Eötvös utca 11, (94) 55 84 19. the pool complex, and the
György Bence’s Apátsági and Wellness Centre is now Greenfield Hotel Golf and Spa
Templom) is the best-preserved Founded by the Romans in one of the largest bath com­ Thermal springs were dis covered (see p293), a short walk from
and most impressive example AD 43, and known as Savaria, plexes and, after its renovation at this village near the Austrian the thermal baths, is home to
of Romanesque archi tecture in Szombathely was an important and extension, the most mod­ border in 1956 during a search Hungary’s finest golfing centre.
Hungary. Built in 1214–56, this trading and staging post on ern in Hungary. It comprises for oil. Since then the Bükfürdő It is the only 18­hole course in
twin-towered master piece, the “Amber Road” from the indoor and outdoor pools, Health and Adventure Centre Hungary to have hosted a
influenced by late Norman Baltic Sea to Italy. Every August leisure and splash pools, a has grown to become one of professional golf tournament.
architecture, sits imposingly on the Savaria Carnival recreates sauna and a treatment centre Hungary’s largest and most
a hilltop above the village. The those ancient days, and offering various therapies. attractive medicinal bath  Bük Medicinal Baths
western façade is worthy of note hundreds of volunteers don complexes. There are 32 indoor Termál körút 2. Tel (94) 55 80 80.
with its recessed doorway, a Roman costumes and engage E Ferenc Nádasdy Museum and outdoor pools of various sizes Open winter: 8:30am–6pm daily;
richly decorated portal featuring in battles, dancing and music. Várkerület 1. Tel (95) 32 01 58. and temp eratures, offering treat­ summer: 8:30am–7:30pm daily.
almost life-size carvings of Jesus The remains of the once-vast Open Jul–Aug: 9am–9pm; Sep–Jun: ments for a variety of different & 7
and the Apostles. This style, Roman Forum (Savaria was Szombathely Cathedral, Hungary’s largest 9am–5pm. & 8
called the Porta Speciosa the capital of Roman Pannonia Baroque church  Sárvár Spa and Wellness Oil and Water
technique, was refined here Superior) are among Centre
before becoming a model the city’s leading Vadkert utca 1. Tel (95) 52 36 00. Many of the largest thermal
for Roman esque sights, with mosaic r Sárvár Open 8am–10pm daily. & 7 bath complexes in Hungary,
churches all over floors and the 25 km (16 miles) east of Szom bathely. such as those at Bük and
Hungary. Inside the public baths clearly Road Map A3. * 15,000. £ from Sárvár, have only been in
church are original visible. There is Szombathely. @ from Szombathely. existence since the latter
14th-century more Roman n Tourinform, Várkerület 33, (95) 52 part of the 20th century,
frescoes showing treasure on show 01 78). when the thermal springs
the church’s at the Savaria that serve them were
found during oil searches.
founder, Jáki Nagy Detail on the portal of the Museum. Standing The Magyars built an earth Desperate to fuel its
Márton, and his Benedictine abbey in Ják next to the ruins is castle (sárvár translates quite industrialization, Hungary’s
family. The church the city’s cathedral, literally as “mud castle”) here in Communist government
was fully restored in 1890 Hungary’s largest Baroque the 10th century. Long before hoped that the discovery of
by Frigyes Schulek, who also church, built in 1791–4. Its that it appears the Romans the Nagylengyel oil field in
restored the Mátyás Church interior suffered great damage had some fortifications here, the west of the country in Indoor thermal baths in Sárvár
in Buda pest (see pp66–7). The during World War II and is and even the Celts found this 1951 would be the first of
tiny St Jakab Chapel opposite undergoing continuous resto- confluence of the Rába river a many oil strikes in the region. Vast sums of money were spent
was built in 1260 for the use ration work. However, it is open sound defensive position. The foraging for oil, though all that was found was what became known
of non-monastic villagers. to the public. Next to it is the Sárvár Castle that now attracts as “white gold”: thermal water. Some small deposits of crude oil
Bishop’s Palace, an attractive visitors is far from the mud of were eventually located, but although Hungary does produce
R St George’s Abbey Church Rococo building whose Sala yore, how ever, having been oil (Zalaegerszeg is the centre of the industry; see p162), domestic
Fő tér. Tel (94) 35 60 14. Open 8am– Terrena houses the Dio cesan built in the 16th century. Its The Knights Hall in Sárvár Castle, with production accounts for less than 10 per cent of consumption.
6pm daily. 7 Museum, which has a fine patrons were the Nádasdy superb battle frescoes
For hotels and restaurants see pp264–269 and pp276–285


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NOR THERN TR ANSD ANUBIA  167


family, who bought the town in
1534. Patriarch Tamás Nádasdy
brought in Italian architects to
create a genuine Renais sance
master piece, which, with
various additions, survives more
or less intact to the present day.
Much of the castle is given
over to the Ferenc Nádasdy
Museum, the highlight of which
are two series of frescoes:
17th­century works showing
the Hungarians in battle with
the Turks and scenes from the
Old Testa ment painted by István
Dorfmeister in 1769. There are
also exhibitions of the family’s
and town’s histories, regional
folk art and period furniture. One of the outdoor pools at the Bükfürdő Health and Adventure Centre
The castle is reached via a long
stone bridge over what was t Bük disorders, and the grounds are
once a moat. 24km (15 miles) northeast of Szom­ well laid out with grassy areas,
In 1961, during a search for bathely. Road Map A3. * 3,100. children’s play grounds, snack
oil (see below), hot springs £ from Szombathely, Sopron. @ bars and restaurants. A fair­sized
(44 °C/111 °F) were found in from Szombathely. n Tourinform, resort has also grown up around
Sárvár, and the Sárvár Spa Eötvös utca 11, (94) 55 84 19. the pool complex, and the
and Wellness Centre is now Greenfield Hotel Golf and Spa
one of the largest bath com­ Thermal springs were dis covered (see p293), a short walk from
plexes and, after its renovation at this village near the Austrian the thermal baths, is home to
and extension, the most mod­ border in 1956 during a search Hungary’s finest golfing centre.
ern in Hungary. It comprises for oil. Since then the Bükfürdő It is the only 18­hole course in
indoor and outdoor pools, Health and Adventure Centre Hungary to have hosted a
leisure and splash pools, a has grown to become one of professional golf tournament.
sauna and a treatment centre Hungary’s largest and most
offering various therapies. attractive medicinal bath  Bük Medicinal Baths
complexes. There are 32 indoor Termál körút 2. Tel (94) 55 80 80.
E Ferenc Nádasdy Museum and outdoor pools of various sizes Open winter: 8:30am–6pm daily;
Várkerület 1. Tel (95) 32 01 58. and temp eratures, offering treat­ summer: 8:30am–7:30pm daily.
Open Jul–Aug: 9am–9pm; Sep–Jun: ments for a variety of different & 7
9am–5pm. & 8
 Sárvár Spa and Wellness Oil and Water
Centre
Vadkert utca 1. Tel (95) 52 36 00. Many of the largest thermal
Open 8am–10pm daily. & 7 bath complexes in Hungary,
such as those at Bük and
Sárvár, have only been in
existence since the latter
part of the 20th century,
when the thermal springs
that serve them were
found during oil searches.
Desperate to fuel its
industrialization, Hungary’s
Communist government
hoped that the discovery of
the Nagylengyel oil field in
the west of the country in Indoor thermal baths in Sárvár
1951 would be the first of
many oil strikes in the region. Vast sums of money were spent
foraging for oil, though all that was found was what became known
as “white gold”: thermal water. Some small deposits of crude oil
were eventually located, but although Hungary does produce
oil (Zalaegerszeg is the centre of the industry; see p162), domestic
The Knights Hall in Sárvár Castle, with production accounts for less than 10 per cent of consumption.
superb battle frescoes




166-167_EW_Hungary.indd 167 18/09/17 3:40 pm

168  HUNGAR Y REGION B Y REGION NOR THERN TR ANSD ANUBIA  169

y Kőszeg shops, but only rarely is one VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
as deserving of interest as this
Nestled in lowland hills just minutes from the Austrian border, particular example. As well as Practical Information
modern-day Kőszeg is a small, quiet town, whose citizens being set in a fine Baroque 50km (31 miles) south of Sopron.
are proud of its past. It is probably the only town in the world house on Jurisics tér, it con tains Road Map A3. * 12,000.
where the bells toll at 11am – in honour of Captain Miklós a superb late 18th-century n Tourinform, Rajnis utca 7,
(94) 56 31 20.
Jurisics, who led the Hungarians during a 25-day Turkish wooden apothecary counter,
siege of Kőszeg Fortress in August 1532. The memory of complete with old medicine Transport
bottles. It looks not unlike
£ from Szombathely.
Jurisics dominates the city, with its main square, castle and something from a film set. @ from Sopron.
one of its museums carrying his name. Spared during World Upstairs the exhibition
War II, Kőszeg is the most attractive town in the region. continues with a display
Window detail on the front façade, showing how the medicines interior, beautifully decorated,
Kőszeg Synagogue were cleaned, dried, stored is filled with delicately patterned
+ Jurisics Castle P Miklós Jurisics Square Medieval wall painting in the southern and prepared. Most were marble columns.
Jurisics-vár Jurisics Miklós tér nave, Church of St James was entirely wiped out during remedies made from natural
Rajnis utca 9. Tel (94) 36 01 13. In the heart of Kőszeg’s the Holocaust. Closed for ingred ients and plants grown
Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sun. & old town is this enclosed At the northern end of the some time, the synagogue is in the pharmacy’s own
8 Hungarian only. 7 charming square, surrounded square is the Baroque St Imre to undergo major restoration herb garden.
It was here, in the carefully on all sides by churches, Church, completed in 1640 work, but parts of it can be
preserved Jurisics houses, museums by Hungarian Lutherans who visited by calling ahead to R Jesus’s Heart Church
Castle, that Miklós and courtyards. The had been expelled from make an appointment. The Jézus Szíve templom
Jurisics and 450 impres sive entrance St James’s Church (see below) synagogue’s striking façade Fő tér. Tel (94) 56 33 97. Open 9am–
Hungarian soldiers to the square, the by German Lutherans. and Neo-Gothic towers can still 6pm daily. & 7
held a 30,000-strong Heroes’ Gate, be admired from the outside. This fantastical, Neo-Gothic
Tur kish force at bay was erected to R Church of St James wedding-cake church is famous
for 25 days in August commemorate the Szent Jakab templom E Golden Unicorn for its colour ful stained-glass
1532. The Hungarians 400th anniversary Rajnis utca 2. Tel (94) 56 33 97. Open Pharma ceutical Museum altar windows depicting Saints
eventually had to of the Turkish Siege. 10am–6pm daily. & donation. 7 Arany Egyszarvú Patikamúzeum István, Imre and Elizabeth.
abandon their stand, Though built in 1932 Standing next to the more Jurisics Miklós tér 11. Tel (94) 36 03 37. Built in 1892–4 to designs by
only to return the it recreates much recent Church of St Imre, the Open by appointment. & 8 7 the Austrian Otto Kott, its
following spring to Crest above the gate older towers, and Church of St James was com- Hungarians tend to be 60-m- (196-ft-) high tower is
retake the castle with to Jurisics Castle blends in impeccably pleted in 1407, but much fascinated with old chemist the tallest in the city. The Interior of Jesus’s Heart Church
Austrian help. with the surrounding – reconstructed in the 18th
A fire in 1777 destroyed part mainly Baroque – buildings. century. It remains clearly a
of the castle: the interior arcades Of these, the Arcade House Gothic building, however. Kőszeg City Centre
were built after the blaze. The (Lábasház) next to the tower The most important historic 1 Jurisics Castle ARPÁD
TÉR
Castle Museum has displays at No. 2 Jurisics tér is a building in Kőszeg, the church 2 Miklós Jurisics Square UNLENECKER
UTCA
on the town’s history, including highlight, complete with its has served Jesuit, Protestant GY Ö N G Y Ö S U T C A
various depictions of the siege. It courtyard colonnades. The and Roman Catholic congre- 3 Church of St James
also has 18th- and 19th-century Jurisics Museum on the other gations. The faded frescoes 4 Synagogue P É K UT C A Lutheran
Church
interiors and displays on the side of the tower, housed in inside, by an unknown artist, 5 Golden Unicorn H E G YA L J A U T C A
region’s viticulture. the late Renaissance General’s depict the Magi, and are Pharmaceutical Museum ZRINYI M. UTCA Synagogue
House (Tábornok), has a fine original, dating from 1403. 6 Jesus’s Heart Church VÁ RK ÖR
collection of memorabilia of Overpainted during the
the various guilds, artisans and 17th century by the Lutherans, KI SS J Á N O S UT C A
trades men who inhabited the who disapproved of such KÁROLY R. TÁBLAHÁZ SCHNELLER ISTVÁ N UT C A
town. Next to the museum is ostentatious decora tion, the TÉR Church of KELCZ ADELFFY UTCA V
the Town Hall, originally built frescoes were forgotten and Jurisics St James TÁ NC SI CS MIHÁ LY U T CA
in 1487, though the façade only uncovered during interior Castle MIKLÓS BE M J ÓZE F U TCA Á R K Ö R
JURISICS
was remodelled in the Baroque restoration in the 1950s. R ÁJ N IS U TC A TÉR Golden Unicorn
Pharmaceutical Museum
style in the 18th century. The wooden statue of the V Á R K Ö R Town Hall KELCZ A. UTCA
Today a pizzeria, the Madonna is also an original
ornate Sgraffito House at from the Gothic era. Heroes’ VÁROSHÁZ FŐ TÉ R
Gate
No. 7 Jurisics tér dates from CHEMEL I. UTCA UTCA
the 16th century. Sgraffito u Synagogue H U NYA DI UT C A
was an Italian method of Zsinagoga SZ E NT I M R E HE R CEG UT C A VÁ R K Ö R Jesus’s K O S S U T H L A J O S UTCA Bus Station
creating lavish decorations Várkör 38. Tel Anikó Béres (20) 934 Heart RÁKÓCZI FERENC
Church
by scratching through several 87 30. Open by appointment. 0 metres 100 GY Ő N J . UTC A LISZT FERENC UTCA
layers of plaster. This is one of Completed in 1859, this 100 A D Y E N DR E U T C A SZ ÜK UT CA
only few sgraffito houses in well-sized and imposing 0 yards UTCA
Hungary and, while time has red-brick synagogue once Train Station
1.6 km (1 mile)
Heroes’ Gate, a local landmark, not been kind to the façade, served the considerable Jewish TEM E T Ő U T C A
in Miklós Jurisics Square the effect is just still visible. population in Kőszeg, which
For hotels and restaurants see pp264–269 and pp276–285 For keys to map symbols see back flap
168-169_EW_Hungary.indd 168 18/09/17 3:40 pm 168-169_EW_Hungary.indd 169 18/09/17 3:40 pm

NOR THERN TR ANSD ANUBIA  169


shops, but only rarely is one VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
as deserving of interest as this
particular example. As well as Practical Information
being set in a fine Baroque 50km (31 miles) south of Sopron.
house on Jurisics tér, it con tains Road Map A3. * 12,000.
a superb late 18th-century n Tourinform, Rajnis utca 7,
wooden apothecary counter, (94) 56 31 20.
complete with old medicine Transport
bottles. It looks not unlike £ from Szombathely.
something from a film set. @ from Sopron.
Upstairs the exhibition
continues with a display
Window detail on the front façade, showing how the medicines interior, beautifully decorated,
Kőszeg Synagogue were cleaned, dried, stored is filled with delicately patterned
and prepared. Most were marble columns.
was entirely wiped out during remedies made from natural
the Holocaust. Closed for ingred ients and plants grown
some time, the synagogue is in the pharmacy’s own
to undergo major restoration herb garden.
work, but parts of it can be
visited by calling ahead to R Jesus’s Heart Church
make an appointment. The Jézus Szíve templom
synagogue’s striking façade Fő tér. Tel (94) 56 33 97. Open 9am–
and Neo-Gothic towers can still 6pm daily. & 7
be admired from the outside. This fantastical, Neo-Gothic
wedding-cake church is famous
E Golden Unicorn for its colour ful stained-glass
Pharma ceutical Museum altar windows depicting Saints
Arany Egyszarvú Patikamúzeum István, Imre and Elizabeth.
Jurisics Miklós tér 11. Tel (94) 36 03 37. Built in 1892–4 to designs by
Open by appointment. & 8 7 the Austrian Otto Kott, its
Hungarians tend to be 60-m- (196-ft-) high tower is
fascinated with old chemist the tallest in the city. The Interior of Jesus’s Heart Church

Kőszeg City Centre
ARPÁD
1 Jurisics Castle UNLENECKER TÉR
2 Miklós Jurisics Square UTCA
3 Church of St James GY Ö N G Y Ö S U T C A
4 Synagogue Lutheran
5 Golden Unicorn H E G YA L J A U T C A P É K UT C A Church
Pharmaceutical Museum ZRINYI M. UTCA Synagogue
6 Jesus’s Heart Church VÁ RK ÖR


KÁROLY R. TÁBLAHÁZ SCHNELLER ISTVÁ N UT C A KI SS J Á N O S UT C A
TÉR KELCZ ADELFFY UTCA
Church of V
St James
Jurisics TÁ NC SI CS MIHÁ LY U T CA
Castle BE M J ÓZE F U TCA Á R K Ö R
MIKLÓS
JURISICS Golden Unicorn
TÉR
Pharmaceutical Museum
KELCZ A. UTCA
Town Hall
R ÁJ N IS UTC A
V Á R K Ö R
Heroes’
Gate VÁROSHÁZ FŐ TÉ R
H U NYA DI UT C A
UTCA
VÁ R K Ö R
CHEMEL I. UTCA
Jesus’s K O S S U T H L A J O S UTCA Bus Station
Heart
Church RÁKÓCZI FERENC
0 metres 100 A D Y E N DR E U T C A SZ ÜK UT CA LISZT FERENC UTCA
SZ E NT I M R E HE R CEG UT C A
0 yards 100 UTCA Train Station
GY Ő N J . UTC A
TEM E T Ő U T C A 1.6 km (1 mile)
For keys to map symbols see back flap
168-169_EW_Hungary.indd 169 18/09/17 3:40 pm

170  HUNGAR Y REGION B Y REGION NOR THERN TR ANSD ANUBIA  171


and lumber wagons evoke lake has completely dried up valuable Lajta rock was hewn
the history of narrow-gauge a number of times; the last, in here from the time of the
railway lines. 1867–71. There are numerous Antonines, though quarrying
rare plant species – the park ended shortly after World War II.
P Széchenyi Mansion is famous for its “gallery” of What remains is a surreal series
Kiscenki út 3. Tel (99) 36 00 23. snowdrops – and more than of man-made, uneven caverns,
Open Apr–Oct: 10am–6pm daily; 200 species of birds nest here, colonnades and porticoes. In July
Nov–Mar: 10am–4pm Tue–Sun. & including the Hungarian ibis, the superb acoustics of the main
8 7 spoonbill and little egret. Many cavern are put to perfect use as
E Széchenyi Museum Railway parts of the park can only be the setting for musical, dance and
Hársfasor. Tel (99) 57 72 44. visited with special permits opera performances as part of
Open Apr–Oct: Sat & Sun only. & or on organized guided tours. the Sopron Festival Week.
Visitors can find out about A nature trail across the
The façade of Széchenyi Mansion i Sopron both visits and tours at the park’s grasslands above the quarry
in Nagycenk administration office in Sarród. offers magnificent, panoramic
u Nagycenk See pp172–5. The lake is circumnavigated views of Lake Fertő and is also
by one of Europe’s best
the site of the Pan-European
15 km (9 miles) southeast of Sopron. o Fertő-Hanság cycle paths, which takes Monument, a stark metal sculp-
Road Map A3. * 1,900. £ from in spec tacular landscapes in ture representing part of the
Sopron. @ from Sopron. _ Nagycenk National Park both Hungary and Austria. Iron Curtain that commemorates
Art Days (Aug). 16 km (10 miles) east of Sopron. Road Favourable, frequent winds the opening of the border in 1989.
Map A3. Rév-Kócsagvár, Sarród (Park also make the lake a popular
There are probably more public Admin istration). Tel (99) 53 76 20. 8 place to sail, while the shallow
squares, streets, boulevards and 7 £ from Sopron, Győr. @ from waters are inviting to swimmers. a Fertőd
avenues named after Count Zalaergeszeg. The main resort on the Hungarian 25 km (16 miles) east of Sopron.
István Széchenyi (1791–1860), side is Fertő rákos, where there Road Map A3. * 3,400. £ from
often called “the greatest Based mainly on Lake Fertő, are sailing boat launches, grassy Szombathely. @ from Sopron.
Hungarian”, than any other public which for 40 years was one beaches for sunbathing and n Tourinform, Joseph Haydn utca 2,
figure, including St István himself. of the most heavily guarded many attractive nature walks. (99) 53 71 40. _ Haydn Festival The bedroom of the prince in the Esterhazy Palace in Fertőd
A philanthropic industrialist, his parts of the Iron Curtain, (Jun–Sep).
family home was the Széchenyi Fertő-Hanság National Park European cultural centre. The composer’s work. The focus
Mansion at Nagycenk, which is (Fertő-Hanság Nemzeti Park) p Fertőrákos The small town of Fertőd was main ballrooms and drawing is on his chamber music,
today a museum dedicated to is now a protected nature 8 km (5 miles) north of Sopron. Road created in 1950 when two for- rooms have already been performed by outstanding
his life and works. Stuffed with reserve. As one of Europe’s Map A3. * 2,300. £ from Szom- mer estates belonging to the restored to their glorious best – musicians in the Grand Gallery
his personal effects, portraits, most significant water habitats, bathely. @ from Sopron. n Tour- Esterházy family, called Süttör priceless French furniture, and the gardens.
furniture and family history, the it became part of UNESCO’s list inform, Joseph Haydn utca 2, Fertőd, and Esterháza, were merged. Venetian mirrors and Flemish
enormous Baroque mansion, of World Heritage Sites in 2001. (99) 53 71 40. ∑ fertorakos It was for the Esterházy family tapestries abound. P Esterházy Palace
built in the late 18th century With the eastern Alps as its ikofejto.hu (see box), the wealthiest family Joseph Haydn’s presence at Joseph Haydn utca 2. Tel (99) 53 76
for Széchenyi’s grandfather, dramatic backdrop, the lake is in the region, that the town’s the palace from 1766 to 1790 is 40. Open Nov–mid-Mar: 10am–4pm
was all but destroyed in World shallow, in most places less The main resort on the coast of masterpiece, the Esterházy celebrated by the annual Haydn Fri–Sun; mid-Mar–Oct: 10am–6pm
War II, but was rebuilt as an than 1 m (3 ft) deep, and is Lake Fertő, Fertőrákos is best Palace (Esterházy Palota), was Festival with concerts of the daily. & 8 7
exact replica of the original famous for its vast expanses known for its quarry, opened in built. First constructed as a
in the 1950s. of tall reeds. The lake’s main 1628, which pro vided limestone two-storey hunting lodge in The Esterházy Family
In 1815 the mansion was sources of water are rainfall and for Vienna’s St Stephen’s Cathe- 1720, the grand palace is the
the first home in Hungary to two small streams. In fact, the dral, among other buildings. The result of vast extensions by For three centuries the Esterházy family was one of the richest
benefit from gas lighting. the architect Melchior Hefel and most powerful in Hungary. It flourished under the Habsburgs,
Széchenyi made sure that in the 1770s. The Neo-Baroque whom family members served in a variety of political and military
the ordinary townsfolk of French gardens were laid out offices. The dynasty was founded by Count Nikolaus Esterházy
Nagycenk benefited from this at the same time, though these (1582–1645) and his son, Prince Paul Esterházy, who sided with the
technological wonder too, were much remodelled along Habsburgs during the Counter-Reformation (see pp44–5). The family
and they repaid his generosity English ideas of garden design originated in – and derived its name
by building him a mausoleum at the beginning of the from – the settlement Esterháza
in modern-day Slovakia. The
in the village cemetery. The 20th century. Esterházys moved to Eisenstadt,
Neo-Romanesque church, The wrought-iron entrance in Austria, in the 17th century,
next to the cemetery, was gate, with its Rococo stone and set up home there. It was
designed by Miklós Ybl (see p93). vase separating columns, is the Paul Esterházy who decided
Nagycenk is also the starting perfect front to the palace, at to build the palace at Fertőd.
point of the Széchenyi Museum which the visitor arrives along After World War I, the family
Railway, a steam-powered a yew-tree-lined path. The lost influence and was further
train operation that runs along palace was badly damaged weakened by internal feuds.
narrow-gauge tracks to Ferto bőz. during World War II; however, Much Esterházy property is still Crest from the Esterházy Palace
In the locomotive museum a restoration project, parts of bitterly fought over by various in Fertőd
at the terminus, steam engines, which have been completed, family branches.
passenger coaches and freight Cave theatre in the former limestone quarry at Fertőrákos will transform it into a Central
For hotels and restaurants see pp264–269 and pp276–285


170-171_EW_Hungary.indd 170 18/09/17 3:40 pm 170-171_EW_Hungary.indd 171 18/09/17 3:40 pm

NOR THERN TR ANSD ANUBIA  171


valuable Lajta rock was hewn
here from the time of the
Antonines, though quarrying
ended shortly after World War II.
What remains is a surreal series
of man-made, uneven caverns,
colonnades and porticoes. In July
the superb acoustics of the main
cavern are put to perfect use as
the setting for musical, dance and
opera performances as part of
the Sopron Festival Week.
A nature trail across the
grasslands above the quarry
offers magnificent, panoramic
views of Lake Fertő and is also
the site of the Pan-European
Monument, a stark metal sculp-
ture representing part of the
Iron Curtain that commemorates
the opening of the border in 1989.

a Fertőd
25 km (16 miles) east of Sopron.
Road Map A3. * 3,400. £ from
Szombathely. @ from Sopron.
n Tourinform, Joseph Haydn utca 2,
(99) 53 71 40. _ Haydn Festival The bedroom of the prince in the Esterhazy Palace in Fertőd
(Jun–Sep).
European cultural centre. The composer’s work. The focus
The small town of Fertőd was main ballrooms and drawing is on his chamber music,
created in 1950 when two for- rooms have already been performed by outstanding
mer estates belonging to the restored to their glorious best – musicians in the Grand Gallery
Esterházy family, called Süttör priceless French furniture, and the gardens.
and Esterháza, were merged. Venetian mirrors and Flemish
It was for the Esterházy family tapestries abound. P Esterházy Palace
(see box), the wealthiest family Joseph Haydn’s presence at Joseph Haydn utca 2. Tel (99) 53 76
in the region, that the town’s the palace from 1766 to 1790 is 40. Open Nov–mid-Mar: 10am–4pm
masterpiece, the Esterházy celebrated by the annual Haydn Fri–Sun; mid-Mar–Oct: 10am–6pm
Palace (Esterházy Palota), was Festival with concerts of the daily. & 8 7
built. First constructed as a
two-storey hunting lodge in The Esterházy Family
1720, the grand palace is the
result of vast extensions by For three centuries the Esterházy family was one of the richest
the architect Melchior Hefel and most powerful in Hungary. It flourished under the Habsburgs,
in the 1770s. The Neo-Baroque whom family members served in a variety of political and military
French gardens were laid out offices. The dynasty was founded by Count Nikolaus Esterházy
at the same time, though these (1582–1645) and his son, Prince Paul Esterházy, who sided with the
were much remodelled along Habsburgs during the Counter-Reformation (see pp44–5). The family
English ideas of garden design originated in – and derived its name
at the beginning of the from – the settlement Esterháza
in modern-day Slovakia. The
20th century. Esterházys moved to Eisenstadt,
The wrought-iron entrance in Austria, in the 17th century,
gate, with its Rococo stone and set up home there. It was
vase separating columns, is the Paul Esterházy who decided
perfect front to the palace, at to build the palace at Fertőd.
which the visitor arrives along After World War I, the family
a yew-tree-lined path. The lost influence and was further
palace was badly damaged weakened by internal feuds.
during World War II; however, Much Esterházy property is still Crest from the Esterházy Palace
a restoration project, parts of bitterly fought over by various in Fertőd
which have been completed, family branches.
will transform it into a Central




170-171_EW_Hungary.indd 171 18/09/17 3:40 pm

172  HUNGAR Y REGION B Y REGION SOPRON  173

i Street-by-Street: Sopron Belváros . Storno House VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
King Mátyás lived here in
1482–3. Originally a
When visitors step through the Gate of Renaissance build ing, it Practical Information
Loyalty into Belváros – the Inner Town – they Holy Trinity was remodelled in the Road Map A3. * 56,000.
n Tourinform, Liszt Ferenc
arrive in another world. Surrounded entirely Statue Baroque style in 1720. utca 1, (99) 51 75 60. ( daily,
by the modern city that has grown up around Csarnok utca. _ Spring Days,
it, this historic part of Sopron is compact and including Liszt Festival (Mar);
easy to explore on foot. Belváros is centred Sopron Festival Weeks (Jun–Jul);
around Fő tér and includes just four other Volt Pop Festival (Jul); Christmas
Market (Dec).
streets, yet contains most of the city’s main
sights. There is a wealth of Secessionist County Hall Transport
£ Állomás utca 2.; from
architecture to see, as well as the Fire watch Vencil Hild designed this Győr, Vienna, Wiener Neustadt.
elegant Classical build ing,
Tower, from where stunning views of Sopron constructed in 1829–34. @ Lakner Kristóf utca; from Győr.
unfold. A genuine city within a city, it is one
of Hungary’s treasures. . Firewatch Tower
and Gate of Loyalty
The symbol of the
Museum of Mining city, the tower rises
T E M P L O M U T C A
K O L O S T O R U T C A
The museum, at Templom to 61 m (200 ft),
utca 2, is housed in the offering stunning
former town residence of T E M P L O M U T C A K O L O S T O R U T C A views of Belváros.
the Esterházy princes.
The Lutheran
Church (1782)
was made
possible by
József II guaran­
teeing freedom Old Synagogue
of worship to
his subjects.
The pharmacy
here was founded
. Benedictine Church in 1642 and still
Known as the Goat Church boasts the original
(see p174), this large wooden counters.
Gothic church was built
by Franciscan monks in
1280. It is the best A A Town Hall
remaining example A A T C T C Sopron’s town hall,
of Gothic architecture T C T C designed by Károly
S Z E N T G Y Ö R G Y U
S Z E N T G Y Ö R G Y U millennium cele brations,
in Hungary. U U Hintrager and built
J J
Ú Ú for Hungary’s 1896
houses a fine art gallery
in its southern wing.
Fabricius House
Named after Sopron’s mayor
ORSOL Y A in the early 19th century, the
TÉR
Fabricius House was built over
the ruins of a Roman bath.
Ursuline Church
H Á T S Ó K A P U
This former convent,
founded by Ursuline
nuns in 1747, is one of Key
the most impressive
buildings in the 0 metres 50 Suggested route
town. It holds an outstanding 0 yards 50
collection of ecclesiastical art.
For hotels and restaurants see pp264–269 and pp276–285


172-173_EW_Hungary.indd 172 18/09/17 3:37 pm 172-173_EW_Hungary.indd 173 18/09/17 3:37 pm

SOPRON  173


. Storno House VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
King Mátyás lived here in
1482–3. Originally a Practical Information
Holy Trinity Renaissance build ing, it Road Map A3. * 56,000.
Statue was remodelled in the n Tourinform, Liszt Ferenc
Baroque style in 1720. utca 1, (99) 51 75 60. ( daily,
Csarnok utca. _ Spring Days,
including Liszt Festival (Mar);
Sopron Festival Weeks (Jun–Jul);
Volt Pop Festival (Jul); Christmas
Market (Dec).
Transport
£ Állomás utca 2.; from
Győr, Vienna, Wiener Neustadt.
@ Lakner Kristóf utca; from Győr.
. Firewatch Tower
and Gate of Loyalty
The symbol of the
T E M P L O M U T C A K O L O S T O R U T C A offering stunning
city, the tower rises
to 61 m (200 ft),
views of Belváros.











The pharmacy
here was founded
in 1642 and still
boasts the original
wooden counters.

A Town Hall
A T C Sopron’s town hall,
T C designed by Károly
S Z E N T G Y Ö R G Y U millennium cele brations,
U Hintrager and built
J
Ú for Hungary’s 1896
houses a fine art gallery
in its southern wing.
Fabricius House
Named after Sopron’s mayor
in the early 19th century, the
Fabricius House was built over
the ruins of a Roman bath.

H Á T S Ó K A P U

Key
0 metres 50 Suggested route
0 yards 50





172-173_EW_Hungary.indd 173 18/09/17 3:37 pm

174  HUNGAR Y REGION B Y REGION SOPRON  175

Exploring Sopron R Benedictine Church the remnants; some of the most
Kecske-templom impressive can be seen at the
A border town of the Pannonia province, Austrian number Templom utca 1, Fő tér. Tel (03) 667 41 Várkerület, opposite Árpád utca,
plates and German-language shop and street signs are much 01. Church: Open daily. Exhibition: where there is an 8­m­ (26­ft­)
Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun; call ahead
in evidence in Sopron today, and it is easy to forget that this is to check. & 7 ∑ bencessopron.hu thick portion of wall and part of
still Hungary. In 1921, the people of Sopron voted to stay in Built by Franciscans in 1280, this a fortified tower or barbican, the
Great Round Bastion.
Hungary rather than join Austria, and the Gate of Loyalty is Gothic church was given to the
dedicated to the result of that plebiscite. One of Hungary’s Benedictines in 1787, when József E Zettl–Langer Collection
oldest cultural centres, Sopron has remains of Roman edifices II dissolved the Franciscan Order. Balfi utca 11. Tel (99) 31 11 36.
and city walls as well as grand medieval buildings, including It has remnants of medie val fres- Open Apr–Oct:10am–noon Tue–Sun;
Nov–Mar: 10am–noon Fri–Sun. &
both churches and a synagogue. Among other sights are a coes inside and a Kapisztrán pulpit, A century and a half ago,
unique in style. The church is
Pharmacy Museum and an outstanding art collection.
known as Goat Church – a goat- Gusztáv Zettl had to choose
herd is said to have financed it between his first love, art, or
E Collection of Roman u Old Synagogue from treasure found by his flock. his father’s business empire.
Catholic Church Art Ó-Zsinagóga He chose business, but never
Római Katolikus Egyházművészeti Új utca 22. Tel (99) 31 13 27. Open Apr lost his love of art. Much of the
Gyűjtemény & May: 10am–6pm Tue–Sun; Jun–Sep: money he made in business
Várkerület 25. Tel (99) 31 22 21. 10am–8pm daily; Oct: 10am– 6pm was invested in some of the
Open May–Oct: 2–4pm Tue, 9–11am Tue–Sun. & finest art of the period.
Thu. & 8 Thought to have been built His collection, which
This fine collection of ecclesias- around 1300, the medieval encompasses works from all
tical art is owned and managed synagogue of Sopron is one of Painting of St Dominic above the main altar of the Dominican Church genres, periods and fashions,
by Sopron’s Catholic Convent. the oldest in Europe. In line with has been exhibited in the Zettl
Most items are from the Baroque anti-Semitic legis lation of the day, P Firewatch Tower easily missed if approaching family home since 1955
period, complemented by an the local Jewish community had Tűztorony from the railway station – was (Zettl himself died in 1951).
early 19th-century collection. to build their prayer hall set back Fő tér. Tel (99) 31 13 27. Open Oct– designed by Lorenz Eysenkölbl The house itself has artisan
There are liturgical cups, crosses, from the main buildings on the Apr: 10am–6pm daily; May–Sep: and built in 1719–25, with the windows, frescoed ceilings,
christening bowls, historical street, which is why it stands 10am–8pm daily & spires added in 1775. A local Bieder meier furniture and
altars and paintings. The finest behind two Baroque houses. The symbol of the city, the artist, Stephan Schaller, painted paintings by Rembrandt, Paolo
painting, of St Dominic (1710), Abandoned in 1526 when the The Benedictine Church, originally Firewatch Tower was built on the picture of St Dominic above Veronese and István Dorfmeister.
is by the Neapolitan Rococo Jews were expelled from Sopron, belonging to the Franciscan Order the remains of the Roman wall the altar. The adjoining two­
master Martin Alta monte. many of its original features in the 13th century. Balcony storey building is the Baroque
remain intact, however, including E Fabricius House Museum and spire are Baroque; they Dominican Priory, built in 1750.
E Museum of Mining the recess in the east wall holding and Apartments were added after the building Across the road stands the
Központi Bányászati Múzeum a replica Ark of the Covenant. Régészeti kiállítás és római kori kőtár burned down in 1676. The Széchenyi Palace, built in 1851
Templom utca 2 Tel (99) 31 26 67. Across the road, the New Fő tér 6. Tel (99) 31 13 27. Open Oct– Gate of Loyalty, at the foot of for Ferenc Széchényi. Today
Open Apr–Sep: 10am–6pm Tue–Sun; Synagogue was built in 1370 May: 10am–6pm Tue–Sun; Jun–Sep: the tower, was added in 1928 housing administrative offices
Oct–Mar: 10am–4pm Tue–Sun. & for the private use of a Jewish 10am–8pm daily. & to designs by Rezső Hikisch. and closed to the public, many
This engaging museum banker. It, too, fell into disuse in The highlight of this museum’s of the first exhibits in Hungary’s
presents the history and science 1526, and though its exterior is archaeological collection is the E Pharmacy Museum National Museum collection
of mining in Hungary over the in reasonable repair, it is closed lapidarium, with headstones, Patika Múzeum (see pp102–3) came from here.
course of a thousand years. to the public. sar cophagi and altars from all Fő tér 2. Tel (99) 31 13 27. Open Apr– István Széchenyi is honoured
eras of Sopron’s his tory. Another Sep: 10am–2pm Tue–Sun; Oct–Dec: with a huge bronze statue in
display features Sopron and by arrangement only. & 7 the middle of the square. On
the Amber Road. In a street-side The former Angel Pharmacy the north side is the Ferenc A room in the Zettl family home, housing
wing are apartments furnished (1601) opened as a pharmacy Liszt Cultural Centre (Művel ő dési the Zettl-Langer Collection
and deco rated in the typical museum in 1966. It displays Ház), built in 1872. Liszt
bourgeois styles of the 17th fascinating medical items, old performed here regularly, P Károly Lookout Tower
and 18th centuries. manuals dating back to 1572 and the centre hosts cultural Károly-magaslati Kilátó
and beautiful Altwien china jars events today. Lővérek. Tel (99) 31 30 80. Open daily;
E Storno House & Exhib- from Vienna. Mar: 9am–5pm; Apr–Oct: 9am–6pm
ition of Regional History P Old City Walls (May–Aug: to 8pm; Sep: to 7pm);
Storno-gyűjtemény és Helytör- P Széchenyi tér and Várkerület Nov–Feb: 9am–4pm. &
téneti kiállítás Dominican Church Having survived many attacks, The 23­m­ (75­ft­) high tower,
Fő tér 8. Tel (99) 31 13 27. Open Oct- Domonkos templom Sopron’s city walls – built by the built in 1876, offers panoramic
May: 10am–6pm Tue–Sun; Jun–Sep: Széchenyi tér. Romans and once encircling views of lush forests, Lake Fertő
10am–8pm daily. & Spacious and green, Széchenyi the entire Belváros – were and the snow­covered Schnee­
This grand 15th-century tér at the southern entrance to dismantled by locals at the berg range in Austria’s Wiener wald,
house, the one-time home Belváros is surrounded by out­ end of the 19th century in order west of Vienna. A small exhibition
of King Mátyás, displays a fine standing architecture on all to improve access to the city. outlines the unique natural
collection of art, antiques sides. The Dominican Church A walkway, the Castle Wall features of the Sopron Nature
The Old Synagogue, its prayer hall set back from the street and period furniture. on its southeastern corner – Promenade, takes in many of Conservation Area.
For hotels and restaurants see pp264–269 and pp276–285


174-175_EW_Hungary.indd 174 18/09/17 3:40 pm 174-175_EW_Hungary.indd 175 18/09/17 3:40 pm

SOPRON  175


the remnants; some of the most
impressive can be seen at the
Várkerület, opposite Árpád utca,
where there is an 8­m­ (26­ft­)
thick portion of wall and part of
a fortified tower or barbican, the
Great Round Bastion.
E Zettl–Langer Collection
Balfi utca 11. Tel (99) 31 11 36.
Open Apr–Oct:10am–noon Tue–Sun;
Nov–Mar: 10am–noon Fri–Sun. &
A century and a half ago,
Gusztáv Zettl had to choose
between his first love, art, or
his father’s business empire.
He chose business, but never
lost his love of art. Much of the
money he made in business
was invested in some of the
finest art of the period.
His collection, which
encompasses works from all
Painting of St Dominic above the main altar of the Dominican Church genres, periods and fashions,
has been exhibited in the Zettl
P Firewatch Tower easily missed if approaching family home since 1955
Tűztorony from the railway station – was (Zettl himself died in 1951).
Fő tér. Tel (99) 31 13 27. Open Oct– designed by Lorenz Eysenkölbl The house itself has artisan
Apr: 10am–6pm daily; May–Sep: and built in 1719–25, with the windows, frescoed ceilings,
10am–8pm daily & spires added in 1775. A local Bieder meier furniture and
The symbol of the city, the artist, Stephan Schaller, painted paintings by Rembrandt, Paolo
Firewatch Tower was built on the picture of St Dominic above Veronese and István Dorfmeister.
the remains of the Roman wall the altar. The adjoining two­
in the 13th century. Balcony storey building is the Baroque
and spire are Baroque; they Dominican Priory, built in 1750.
were added after the building Across the road stands the
burned down in 1676. The Széchenyi Palace, built in 1851
Gate of Loyalty, at the foot of for Ferenc Széchényi. Today
the tower, was added in 1928 housing administrative offices
to designs by Rezső Hikisch. and closed to the public, many
of the first exhibits in Hungary’s
E Pharmacy Museum National Museum collection
Patika Múzeum (see pp102–3) came from here.
Fő tér 2. Tel (99) 31 13 27. Open Apr– István Széchenyi is honoured
Sep: 10am–2pm Tue–Sun; Oct–Dec: with a huge bronze statue in
by arrangement only. & 7 the middle of the square. On
The former Angel Pharmacy the north side is the Ferenc A room in the Zettl family home, housing
(1601) opened as a pharmacy Liszt Cultural Centre (Művel ő dési the Zettl-Langer Collection
museum in 1966. It displays Ház), built in 1872. Liszt
fascinating medical items, old performed here regularly, P Károly Lookout Tower
manuals dating back to 1572 and the centre hosts cultural Károly-magaslati Kilátó
and beautiful Altwien china jars events today. Lővérek. Tel (99) 31 30 80. Open daily;
from Vienna. Mar: 9am–5pm; Apr–Oct: 9am–6pm
P Old City Walls (May–Aug: to 8pm; Sep: to 7pm);
P Széchenyi tér and Várkerület Nov–Feb: 9am–4pm. &
Dominican Church Having survived many attacks, The 23­m­ (75­ft­) high tower,
Domonkos templom Sopron’s city walls – built by the built in 1876, offers panoramic
Széchenyi tér. Romans and once encircling views of lush forests, Lake Fertő
Spacious and green, Széchenyi the entire Belváros – were and the snow­covered Schnee­
tér at the southern entrance to dismantled by locals at the berg range in Austria’s Wiener wald,
Belváros is surrounded by out­ end of the 19th century in order west of Vienna. A small exhibition
standing architecture on all to improve access to the city. outlines the unique natural
sides. The Dominican Church A walkway, the Castle Wall features of the Sopron Nature
on its southeastern corner – Promenade, takes in many of Conservation Area.




174-175_EW_Hungary.indd 175 18/09/17 3:40 pm

176  HUNGAR Y REGION B Y REGION NOR THERN TR ANSD ANUBIA  177

f Moson- k Tata
magyaróvár 60 km (37 miles) east of Győr.
37 km (23 miles) northwest of Győr. Road Map C3. * 24,000. £ from
Road Map B3. * 32,000. £ from Budapest. @ from Budapest.
n Tourinform, Ady Endre utca 9,
Győr. @ from Győr. n Tourinform,
Kápolna tér 16, (96) 20 63 04. _ (34) 58 60 45.
Voluta International Water Festival
(Jun); Summer Festival (Aug). Sitting on the banks of Lake
Öreg, Tata is often referred
The Romans built a fortress at to as the Hungarian Venice,
Magyaróvár in the 3rd century AD. mainly for the moated castle
It was later extended by the Huns on the lake’s north bank. Little
and then the Magyars, who con- except one tower and a wall
structed a large mud-brick fortress remain of the 15th-century
here. In 1271 Ottocar of Bohemia original: most of the current,
replaced this structure with the never theless impressive,
present stone Magyaróvár build ing dates from 1893.
St Anne’s Church in Kapuvár, built in the Neo-Baroque style Castle. Currently being used by Aerial view of the largely hidden Monostor Fortress in Komárom The lake was once sur rounded
the Faculty of Agricultural and by water mills, but only a few
s Kapuvár for the Premon strat ens ians. Food Sciences of Széchenyi when the two separate towns of largest fortress in the country, remain; the Cifra Mill next to
47 km (29 miles) west of Győr. The site of their monastery István University, the castle has Moson and Magyaróvár became and one of the largest in Europe. the castle is the oldest, dating
Road Map B3. * 11,000. is now occupied by the been extended and renovated one and the two names simply Most of it is invisible from outside, from 1587. Another mill a
£ @ from Győr, Sopron. magnificent 19th-century many times since, and little of joined together. as it is buried underground. It short distance north houses
Neo-Renaissance Premon- what remains is original apart was sparsely used by the Habs- the German Minorities Museum,
This small town’s name stratensian Csorna Palace. from the two southern towers. + Magyaróvár Castle burgs before becoming the with interesting artifacts from
translates as “Gate For tress”, The palace contains an Over the bridge from the castle Vár utca 2. Tel (96) 56 66 37. property of the Hungarian army, the region’s once numerous
and that is exactly what it exhibition of local folk art. (which is on an island) is Fő utca, Open 7:30am–6pm Mon–Fri. who used it as a training camp. German population.
was: a fortress protecting Here, visitors can find on which stands at No. 19 the & 7 to the grounds. After World War II, the Soviet On the other side of the
the gate that controlled out about local wood Gothic Cselley House (Cselley army held political prisoners castle, on central Hősök tér,
access to the border area. carvings and so-called Ház). Inside is part of the Hanság g Győr here. The story of the fortress is is the eclectic Ester házy
Built in 1270, the fortress “spider embroidery”, Museum collection (the rest is at told clearly in the museum that Mansion, built in 1777. Used
was dismantled in 1884 as well as the blue- Szent István Király utca 1, further See pp178–9. now occupies much of the main as a mental hospital for years,
to prevent it being used dyers of Csorna and along Fő utca). High lights include bastion. There is also a bread it has now been largely restored.
by Austrian forces. It the potters of Dör. the Tibor Gyurkovich Col lection, museum, where visitors may Across the square is the
was replaced with a Together with the as well as a fine exhibition of h Pannonhalma taste the “ration bread” given Greco-Roman Statue Museum,
Neo-Baroque mansion. church order, these Hungarian paint ings, including Abbey to the soldiers who had to man a former synagogue containing
This today is the office of were two groups that works by Oszkár Glatz, Mihály the place in the 19th century. The full-size replicas of classical
the mayor and home to contributed significantly Munkácsy and Gyula Rudnay. A See pp180–81. fortress hosts cultural events and statuary, from David to Zeus.
the Rábaközi Museum, to the town’s wealth and short walk east on Szent Laszló tér battle recreations throughout On the shore of Tata’s second
which has an exhibition on growth in the 18th is St Gotthard’s Church. Its founda- j Komárom the summer. lake, Lake Cseske, stands the
the history of the town, a and early 19th centuries. tions were laid in 1668, although folly of a ruined church.
collection of regional folk Next to the palace is the it was not comp leted until 1778, 38 km (24 miles) northeast of Győr. + Monostor Fortress
art, as well as work by complementary when the Baroque interiors were Road Map C3. * 20,000. Monostori Erőd, Dunapart 1. Tel (34) 54 E Greco-Roman Statue Museum
the sculptor Pál Pátzay, Regional costume in Premon stra tensian finished. The Habsburg prince £ from Budapest, Győr. @ from 05 82. Open 9am–6pm daily. & 8 Hősök tere 7. Tel (34) 38 12 51. Open
who was born in the Rábaköz Museum St Helen’s Church, Frederick and his wife Isabelle Győr. n Tourinform, Igmándi út 2, Tue–Sun; book tours in English a week Apr–Oct 10am–6pm Tue–Sun; Nov–
Kapuvár in 1896. Rising in Kapuvár built in 1938 after are buried in the crypt. (34) 54 05 90. in advance. ∑ fort-monostor.hu Mar by appointment only. & 7
above the mansion is the original The town’s long name, even
St Anne’s Church, built at the 19th-century church on this by Hun garian A real border town, split in two by
same time as the museum, also site had burned down. standards, nature (the Danube) and politics (it
to a Neo-Baroque design, and dates back straddles the Hungarian-Slovakian
replacing a wooden chapel. to 1939, border), Komárom is the main
crossing point between the two
d Csorna countries. Until 1920 this was one
town, and on both sides of the
30 km (19 miles) west of Győr. river the two languages appear
Road Map B3. * 11,000. £ from to be spoken inter-changeably.
Győr. @ from Győr. The Hungarian part of the
town is known for the colossal
Csorna is one of the oldest Monostor Fortress (Monostori
Christian towns in Hungary: a Erőd), built by the Habs burgs
Premonstratensian Order settled 2 km (1 mile) upriver from the
here shortly after the Magyars, city centre after the 1848–9
and in 1802 Csorna became uprising. Covering approximately
one of the Hungarian centres The Magyaróvár Castle in Mosonmagyaróvár, on the site of a Roman fort 4 hectares (10 acres), it is the Replicas of famous statues in the Greco-Roman Statue Museum in Tata
For hotels and restaurants see pp264–269 and pp276–285


176-177_EW_Hungary.indd 176 18/09/17 3:40 pm 176-177_EW_Hungary.indd 177 18/09/17 3:40 pm

NOR THERN TR ANSD ANUBIA  177

k Tata
60 km (37 miles) east of Győr.
Road Map C3. * 24,000. £ from
Budapest. @ from Budapest.
n Tourinform, Ady Endre utca 9,
(34) 58 60 45.
Sitting on the banks of Lake
Öreg, Tata is often referred
to as the Hungarian Venice,
mainly for the moated castle
on the lake’s north bank. Little
except one tower and a wall
remain of the 15th-century
original: most of the current,
never theless impressive,
build ing dates from 1893.
Aerial view of the largely hidden Monostor Fortress in Komárom The lake was once sur rounded
by water mills, but only a few
when the two separate towns of largest fortress in the country, remain; the Cifra Mill next to
Moson and Magyaróvár became and one of the largest in Europe. the castle is the oldest, dating
one and the two names simply Most of it is invisible from outside, from 1587. Another mill a
joined together. as it is buried underground. It short distance north houses
was sparsely used by the Habs- the German Minorities Museum,
+ Magyaróvár Castle burgs before becoming the with interesting artifacts from
Vár utca 2. Tel (96) 56 66 37. property of the Hungarian army, the region’s once numerous
Open 7:30am–6pm Mon–Fri. who used it as a training camp. German population.
& 7 to the grounds. After World War II, the Soviet On the other side of the
army held political prisoners castle, on central Hősök tér,
here. The story of the fortress is is the eclectic Ester házy
g Győr told clearly in the museum that Mansion, built in 1777. Used
See pp178–9. now occupies much of the main as a mental hospital for years,
bastion. There is also a bread it has now been largely restored.
museum, where visitors may Across the square is the
h Pannonhalma taste the “ration bread” given Greco-Roman Statue Museum,
Abbey to the soldiers who had to man a former synagogue containing
the place in the 19th century. The
full-size replicas of classical
See pp180–81. fortress hosts cultural events and statuary, from David to Zeus.
battle recreations throughout On the shore of Tata’s second
j Komárom the summer. lake, Lake Cseske, stands the
folly of a ruined church.
38 km (24 miles) northeast of Győr. + Monostor Fortress
Road Map C3. * 20,000. Monostori Erőd, Dunapart 1. Tel (34) 54 E Greco-Roman Statue Museum
£ from Budapest, Győr. @ from 05 82. Open 9am–6pm daily. & 8 Hősök tere 7. Tel (34) 38 12 51. Open
Győr. n Tourinform, Igmándi út 2, Tue–Sun; book tours in English a week Apr–Oct 10am–6pm Tue–Sun; Nov–
(34) 54 05 90. in advance. ∑ fort-monostor.hu Mar by appointment only. & 7
A real border town, split in two by
nature (the Danube) and politics (it
straddles the Hungarian-Slovakian
border), Komárom is the main
crossing point between the two
countries. Until 1920 this was one
town, and on both sides of the
river the two languages appear
to be spoken inter-changeably.
The Hungarian part of the
town is known for the colossal
Monostor Fortress (Monostori
Erőd), built by the Habs burgs
2 km (1 mile) upriver from the
city centre after the 1848–9
uprising. Covering approximately
4 hectares (10 acres), it is the Replicas of famous statues in the Greco-Roman Statue Museum in Tata




176-177_EW_Hungary.indd 177 18/09/17 3:40 pm

178  HUNGAR Y REGION B Y REGION NOR THERN TR ANSD ANUBIA  179

g Győr in 1257–67. The 15th-century by Margit Kovács built by the Jesuits VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Gothic Chapel houses the Holy (1902–77), a local-born in 1627. The beautiful
Located exactly halfway between Budapest and Vienna, Herm, the remains of St László, ceramic artist who Baroque pulpit was Practical Information
where the rivers Danube, Rába and Rábca meet, Győr has one of Hungary’s most sacred is Hungary’s leading added in 1757. After 120 km (74 miles) west of
long been the place where empires met, and often clashed. relics. A fire destroyed the towers 20th-century abstract the Jesuit order was Budapest. Road Map B3.
* 125,000. n Tourinform,
dissolved in 1802, the
Celts founded the city, and called it Arrabona, before giving around 1580, and the cathedral sculptor. Items on Bene dictines added Baross Gábor utca 21, (96) 33 68
was remodelled by the Italian
display range from
way to the Romans. The Magyars saw the value of the town’s architect Giovanni Rava in the vases to religious the two towers. Next 17. ( daily flower market, Arany
position and created a bishopric here, while during the 17th century. The Baroque pieces, with personal to the church stands János utca. _ Four Seasons
Turkish wars it became the home of the most impenetrable interior dates from the time items and a model Ceramics on the stairs a working Phar macy Festival (summer).
fortress in Hungary at the time. Full of monuments and after the Turkish period, of her workshop. at the Margit Kovács Museum boasting Transport
£ Révai Miklós utca; from
buildings that tell of its eventful past, Győr is also a modern, when the altarpieces and P Széchenyi Square Exhibition the beautifully carved Budapest.
superb frescoes by Franz Anton
ceiling. The Maria
vibrant city. Outstanding communications make it an Maulbertsch were added. Széchenyi tér 4. Imre Patkó Collec tion: Column outside was built
excellent base for exploring the Győr–Moson–Sopron region. The painting of the Virgin Mary Tel (96) 31 05 88. Open 10am–6pm in 1686 to celebrate Buda’s
above the Baroque altar is one Tue-Sun. Esterhazy Palace: Tel (96) 32 recapture from the Turks.
+ Bishop’s Palace of Hungary’s most significant 26 95. Open 10am–6pm Tue-Sun. R Carmelite Church
Püspökvár sites of pilgrimage. It allegedly & 7 & Monastery
Káptalandomb 1. Open Museum wept blood in March 1697. Once the city’s marketplace, Karmelita templom
10am–4pm Tue–Sun. & 7 this cobbled square is ringed Aradi vértanúk utca 2. 7
The first castle on this imposing P Ark of the Covenant by splendid buildings. On the The Carmelites settled in Győr in
site was built during the reign Frigyláda emlékmű north side, in the so-called Iron 1697. Their church, a wonderful
of St István; nothing of it remains, Gutenberg tér. 7 Stump House, is the Imre Patkó mixture of the Baroque and the
however. The tower, known as Built on the orders of Charles III Collection with ethnic pieces Italianate, was built in 1721–5 to
the Runway Corridor, dates in 1731, the Baroque Ark of the from Asia and Africa and 16th- the plans of Athan asius Wittwer,
from the 14th (lower) and 18th Covenant monument shows two century applied arts exhibits. a member of their order. The
century (upper part). The chapel angels holding the Ark in their Nearby, at Király utca 17, the monastery was completed in
was built from 1481 to 1486, hands. It was erected as an act Baroque Esterházy Palace, 1732. Neapolitan master Martin
and unusually extends over of atone ment for the violation famed for its early example Altomonte painted the main
two levels. The fortifications of the Blessed Sacrament when of a bay window, houses the altarpiece featuring saints István
were largely added during The stunning 18th-century Baroque interior Habsburg soldiers knocked the Municipal Museum of Arts, which and Imre. In the church’s chapel
the 16th century by the Italian of Győr Cathedral monstrance from the hands has several themed exhibitions. is a statue of Mary made in
architect Pietro Ferrabosco, of the priest during the Corpus The south side of the square Rome and blessed in the
to keep out the Turks. He R Győr Cathedral Christi procession in 1727. The is dominated by the Baroque The Maria Column, in the centre of Vatican’s Loretto Chapel before
completed his work in 1575, Székesegyház soldiers were chasing a deserter Ignatius Benedictine Church, Széchenyi Square being brought here in 1717.
but by 1594 the Turks had taken Káptalandomb. Tel (96) 61 83 04. and adulterer who had sought
the castle and the city. During Open 8am–noon, 2–6pm daily. 7 sanctuary in the procession.
M O RI C Z Z SIG M O ND R AK PA R T
the 18th century, Bishop Ferenc St István created the Győr Győr City Centre
Zichy renovated the castle in Episcopate in the early 11th E Győr Diocesan Treasury 1 Bishop’s Palace Mosoni-Duna BÁST YA U TC A
the Baroque style. In 1984 century, and the foundations and Library 2 Győr Cathedral
further renovation was carried of Győr Cathedral were laid Győri Egyházmegyei Kincstár 3 Ark of the Covenant DUNA-KAPU VÖRÖSMARTY UTCA Ú JK
out. A museum in the treasury then. Originally a three-aisled és Könyvtár 4 Győr Diocesan Treasury Rába JEDLIK ÁNYOS UTCA TÉR TELEKI LASZLÓ UTCA
is dedicated to Hungarian priest church with a raised sanctuary, Káptalandomb 26. Tel (96) 52 50 90. and Library Győr Margit Kovács R Á K Ó CZ I U T CA
APÁCA UTCA APU U TCA
Exhibition
Vilmos Apor, shot by Soviet it was destroyed by the Mongols Open 10am–4pm Tue–Sat. & 7 5 Margit Kovács Exhibition Cathedral Ark of the LISZT UTCA
soldiers in 1945 while trying in 1240, and rebuilt in Gothic Hungary’s finest collection of Covenant
to prevent rape and pillage. style, with two imposing towers, manuscripts is kept among this 6 Széchenyi Square Győr Diocesan
Treasury and Library
treasure trove of liturgical items. 7 Carmelite Church Bishop's KÁPTALANDOMB SZÉCHENYI Cultural PÁLF F Y UT CA
Alongside the Gothic chalices and Monastery Palace K IRÁ LY U TC A TÉR Centre
and Renaissance mitres is a Medieval Stonework KAPU Benedictine
BÉCSI
codex from the 11th century, Radó TÉR S Z A BADSAJT Ó U T CA Church BA JC S Y- ZS IL I N SZ KY ÚT
Museum
and the Korvina, an illuminated Island KAZINCZY UTCA Pharmacy SCHWEIDEL UTCA LU KÁC S S ÁND OR UT CA
Carmelite
manuscript originating from the Church and KISFALUDY UTCA
ÁR PÁD UT C A
personal library of King Mátyás. Monastery A RA NY UT CA National TELE KI L A S ZLÓ U TCA BUDAPEST
Theatre
E Margit Kovács Exhibition TÉR C Z UC Z O R G ERG ELY UT CA
Kovács Margit Állandó Kerámia Z E CHM E I S T E R U T C A VIRÁGPIAC B A R OS S G ÁBO R UT C A
Kiállítás 0 metres 100 SZ E NT I ST VÁ N Ú T
Apáca utca 1. Tel (96) 32 67 39. 0 yards 100 Petőfí híd BA JCS Y- Z SI L INS Z KY Ú T AR A D I V É R TA NV K Ú TJA
Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun. & 7 Á RPÁ D UT CA B IS I NGE R S É TÁ NY
A vast collection of ceramics J Ó K AI UT CA Town Hall R ÉVA I MI KLÓS U T CA
is on display in a monumental
16th-century mansion that MUNKÁCSY MIHÁLY UT CA BAROSS HÍD Bus Station
underwent renovations in S ZE N T I S TVÁ N Ú T Train Station 100 m (110 yards)
The Basilica and Bishop’s Palace, built to defend the town from Turkish invaders 1977. The exhibited works are RÉVAI M I K LÓ S UTC A
For hotels and restaurants see pp264–269 and pp276–285 For keys to map symbols see back flap
178-179_EW_Hungary.indd 178 18/09/17 3:37 pm 178-179_EW_Hungary.indd 179 18/09/17 3:37 pm

NOR THERN TR ANSD ANUBIA  179


by Margit Kovács built by the Jesuits VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
(1902–77), a local-born in 1627. The beautiful
ceramic artist who Baroque pulpit was Practical Information
is Hungary’s leading added in 1757. After 120 km (74 miles) west of
20th-century abstract the Jesuit order was Budapest. Road Map B3.
sculptor. Items on dissolved in 1802, the * 125,000. n Tourinform,
display range from Bene dictines added Baross Gábor utca 21, (96) 33 68
vases to religious the two towers. Next 17. ( daily flower market, Arany
pieces, with personal to the church stands János utca. _ Four Seasons
items and a model Ceramics on the stairs a working Phar macy Festival (summer).
of her workshop. at the Margit Kovács Museum boasting Transport
Exhibition the beautifully carved £ Révai Miklós utca; from
P Széchenyi Square ceiling. The Maria Budapest.
Széchenyi tér 4. Imre Patkó Collec tion: Column outside was built
Tel (96) 31 05 88. Open 10am–6pm in 1686 to celebrate Buda’s
Tue-Sun. Esterhazy Palace: Tel (96) 32 recapture from the Turks.
26 95. Open 10am–6pm Tue-Sun. R Carmelite Church
& 7 & Monastery
Once the city’s marketplace, Karmelita templom
this cobbled square is ringed Aradi vértanúk utca 2. 7
by splendid buildings. On the The Carmelites settled in Győr in
north side, in the so-called Iron 1697. Their church, a wonderful
Stump House, is the Imre Patkó mixture of the Baroque and the
Collection with ethnic pieces Italianate, was built in 1721–5 to
from Asia and Africa and 16th- the plans of Athan asius Wittwer,
century applied arts exhibits. a member of their order. The
Nearby, at Király utca 17, the monastery was completed in
Baroque Esterházy Palace, 1732. Neapolitan master Martin
famed for its early example Altomonte painted the main
of a bay window, houses the altarpiece featuring saints István
Municipal Museum of Arts, which and Imre. In the church’s chapel
has several themed exhibitions. is a statue of Mary made in
The south side of the square Rome and blessed in the
is dominated by the Baroque The Maria Column, in the centre of Vatican’s Loretto Chapel before
Ignatius Benedictine Church, Széchenyi Square being brought here in 1717.

M O RI C Z Z SIG M O ND R AK PA R T
Győr City Centre
1 Bishop’s Palace Mosoni-Duna BÁST YA U TC A
2 Győr Cathedral Ú JK
3 Ark of the Covenant DUNA-KAPU VÖRÖSMARTY UTCA
4 Győr Diocesan Treasury Rába JEDLIK ÁNYOS UTCA TÉR TELEKI LASZLÓ UTCA APÁCA UTCA APU U TCA
Győr
and Library Cathedral Margit Kovács R Á K Ó CZ I U T CA
Exhibition
5 Margit Kovács Exhibition Ark of the LISZT UTCA
6 Széchenyi Square Covenant
Győr Diocesan
7 Carmelite Church KÁPTALANDOMB Treasury and Library PÁLF F Y UT CA
and Monastery Bishop's SZÉCHENYI Cultural
TÉR
Centre
Palace K IRÁ LY U TC A
Medieval Stonework BÉCSI Benedictine
KAPU S Z A BADSAJT Ó U T CA Church
TÉR BA JC S Y- ZS IL I N SZ KY ÚT
Radó Museum
Island KAZINCZY UTCA Pharmacy SCHWEIDEL UTCA
Carmelite LU KÁC S S ÁND OR UT CA
Church and KISFALUDY UTCA
Monastery TÉR A RA NY UT CA National TELE KI L A S ZLÓ U TCA BUDAPEST
ÁR PÁD UT C A
Theatre
Z E CHM E I S T E R U T C A VIRÁGPIAC B AR OS S G ÁBO R UT C A
0 metres 100 SZ E NT I ST VÁ N Ú T
C Z UC Z O R G ERG ELY UT CA
Petőfí híd
B IS I NGE R S É TÁ NY
0 yards 100 BA JCS Y- Z SI L INS Z KY Ú T AR A D I V É R TA NV K Ú TJA Town Hall R ÉVA I MI KLÓS U T CA
Á RPÁ D UT CA
J Ó K AI UT CA
S ZE N T I S TVÁ N Ú T Train Station BAROSS HÍD Bus Station
100 m (110 yards)
RÉVAI M I K LÓ S UTC A For keys to map symbols see back flap
MUNKÁCSY MIHÁLY UT CA
178-179_EW_Hungary.indd 179 18/09/17 3:37 pm

180  HUNGAR Y REGION B Y REGION NOR THERN TR ANSD ANUBIA  181

h Pannonhalma Abbey Cloister
Late Gothic vaulting in the VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
The story of Pannonhalma Abbey is as old as Basilica cloister was added during Practical Information
renovation of the abbey,
Hungary itself. A UNESCO World Heritage Site since The Basilica’s stained- carried out during the reign Vár 1, Pannonhalma, 20 km (12
glass windows were
1996, there has been an abbey here since 1002, added in around 1860. of King Mátyás, in 1486. miles) SE of Győr. Road Map B3.
Tel (96) 57 01 91. Open 21 Mar–
the same year St István brought Christianity to the This one depicts St Apr & Oct–11 Nov: 9am–4pm
Magyars. The original abbey burned down and was Ladislaus, or László I, Tue–Sun; May: 9am–4pm daily;
replaced in 1137 with a Romanesque construction, a pious knight-king Jun–Sep: 9am–5pm daily; 12
of the 11th century
itself superseded by the late Romanesque–early canonized a century Nov–20 Mar: 10am–3pm Tue–
Sun. Library: Tel (96) 57 01 91.
Gothic basilica still in existence today. The basilica’s after his death. & 8 7 ^ Abbey. 0 =
main portal of receding arches is one of the most Transport
important surviving examples of a Porta Speciosa £ @
extant in Hungary.
. Arboretum
The arboretum on the
eastern slope has been
the site of more than
1,200 rare tree, shrub and
herbaceous plant species
since 1802. Most of the
species have grown wild
in the abbey’s grounds.
Our Lady Chapel
On the far side of the abbey, Our Lady
Chapel has three Baroque altars and a tiny
organ. The abbey’s monks are buried here.












Western Tower
Very much the abbey’s calling card,
and its most recognizable feature,
the Western Tower, added in 1832,
. Porta Speciosa can be seen from far away.
Though now hemmed in by Main entrance
extensions to the com plex, the
Porta Speciosa is an outstanding
example of its kind – an
ornamental portal held in red
marble with rich wood carvings. The Benedictine Order
The Order of St Benedict, oldest of the religious orders, was founded by
KEY Benedict of Nursia, who set up the first monastery at Monte Cassino, Italy,
in 529. Benedict wanted to re-establish a sense of community in the
1 The Benedictine Grammar turmoil after the collapse of the Roman Empire, and ever since commu-
School was founded in 1802 and nity and hospitality have been the hallmarks of the Benedictines.
is one of the finest in Hungary. The Benedictine monks are known for living by their labour; Pannonhalma
entrance exams are famously tough. . Library is no exception. The 40 monks who still live at the abbey oversee
the production and sales of the wine (vineyards surround the
2 The Treasury is home to a rich The Neo-Classical library holds abbey), Benedic tine liqueur, honey, tea and lavender products.
collection of ecclesiastical art and 400,000 volu mes, including the
historical artifacts. Tihany Manu script, the earliest A wine produced at Pannonhalma
example of written Hungarian.
For hotels and restaurants see pp264–269 and pp276–285


180-181_EW_Hungary.indd 180 18/09/17 3:40 pm 180-181_EW_Hungary.indd 181 18/09/17 3:40 pm

NOR THERN TR ANSD ANUBIA  181

Cloister
Late Gothic vaulting in the VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
cloister was added during
renovation of the abbey, Practical Information
carried out during the reign Vár 1, Pannonhalma, 20 km (12
of King Mátyás, in 1486. miles) SE of Győr. Road Map B3.
Tel (96) 57 01 91. Open 21 Mar–
Apr & Oct–11 Nov: 9am–4pm
Tue–Sun; May: 9am–4pm daily;
Jun–Sep: 9am–5pm daily; 12
Nov–20 Mar: 10am–3pm Tue–
Sun. Library: Tel (96) 57 01 91.
& 8 7 ^ Abbey. 0 =
Transport
£ @












Our Lady Chapel
On the far side of the abbey, Our Lady
Chapel has three Baroque altars and a tiny
organ. The abbey’s monks are buried here.












Western Tower
Very much the abbey’s calling card,
and its most recognizable feature,
the Western Tower, added in 1832,
can be seen from far away.
Main entrance


The Benedictine Order
The Order of St Benedict, oldest of the religious orders, was founded by
Benedict of Nursia, who set up the first monastery at Monte Cassino, Italy,
in 529. Benedict wanted to re-establish a sense of community in the
turmoil after the collapse of the Roman Empire, and ever since commu-
nity and hospitality have been the hallmarks of the Benedictines.
Benedictine monks are known for living by their labour; Pannonhalma
is no exception. The 40 monks who still live at the abbey oversee
the production and sales of the wine (vineyards surround the
abbey), Benedic tine liqueur, honey, tea and lavender products.
A wine produced at Pannonhalma





180-181_EW_Hungary.indd 181 18/09/17 3:40 pm

HUNGAR Y REGION B Y REGION  183

SOUTHERN

TRANSDANUBIA


Shallow and warm, the waters of Lake Balaton have
attracted visitors for centuries, and today the long,
narrow lake is surrounded by holiday resorts. South of
Balaton, the region is sparsely populated, with Pécs the only city of any
size. Great wines are made in this, the sunniest region of the country; the
Villány-Siklós wine route offers a chance to sample some of them in
superb surroundings.


Lake Balaton has something for every- There is more fauna, and flora, at the
one, from brash beach resorts such as Duna–Dráva National Park, especially in
Siófok on the south bank to the serene the ancient Gemenc Forest, perhaps
tranquillity of the Tihany Peninsula that Hungary’s lushest and most accessible
juts into the lake from the north. It is not nature reserve. To the south, human history
difficult to see why so many Hungarians takes centre-stage at the towns of Mohács
choose to spend their holidays here. and Szigetvár, both of which are known for
Motorized water sports are forbidden, so the heroic battles that were fought and
swimmers, anglers and sailors have the lost against the Turks here. In Pécs, the
lake pretty much to themselves. Though largest city in the region, the enormous
the main Balaton season is limited to high former mosque is a permanent reminder
summer (the only time hot, sunny weather that Sultans once held sway here.
can be guaranteed), the nearby cities of Many of Hungary’s best wines are made
Keszthely, Tapolca and Veszprém are year- in Southern Transdanubia, both in the
round destinations for visitors. volcanic hills on the western shores of
To the west of the lake is Kis-Balaton, Balaton, and in the sun-kissed vineyards
a nature reserve of world renown; in of the far south, in the Villány hills.
autumn, birdwatchers flock here like the Visitors will have ample opportunity
migrating birds they come to watch. to taste them all.






















Vineyards near Badacsonytomaj with Mount Badacsony in the background, Lake Balaton
The magnificent interior of St Peter’s Cathedral, Pécs



Hun_182_183.indd 182 17/02/2015 12:50 Hun_182_183.indd 183 17/02/2015 12:50

HUNGAR Y REGION B Y REGION  183

SOUTHERN

TRANSDANUBIA


Shallow and warm, the waters of Lake Balaton have
attracted visitors for centuries, and today the long,
narrow lake is surrounded by holiday resorts. South of
Balaton, the region is sparsely populated, with Pécs the only city of any
size. Great wines are made in this, the sunniest region of the country; the
Villány-Siklós wine route offers a chance to sample some of them in
superb surroundings.


Lake Balaton has something for every- There is more fauna, and flora, at the
one, from brash beach resorts such as Duna–Dráva National Park, especially in
Siófok on the south bank to the serene the ancient Gemenc Forest, perhaps
tranquillity of the Tihany Peninsula that Hungary’s lushest and most accessible
juts into the lake from the north. It is not nature reserve. To the south, human history
difficult to see why so many Hungarians takes centre-stage at the towns of Mohács
choose to spend their holidays here. and Szigetvár, both of which are known for
Motorized water sports are forbidden, so the heroic battles that were fought and
swimmers, anglers and sailors have the lost against the Turks here. In Pécs, the
lake pretty much to themselves. Though largest city in the region, the enormous
the main Balaton season is limited to high former mosque is a permanent reminder
summer (the only time hot, sunny weather that Sultans once held sway here.
can be guaranteed), the nearby cities of Many of Hungary’s best wines are made
Keszthely, Tapolca and Veszprém are year- in Southern Transdanubia, both in the
round destinations for visitors. volcanic hills on the western shores of
To the west of the lake is Kis-Balaton, Balaton, and in the sun-kissed vineyards
a nature reserve of world renown; in of the far south, in the Villány hills.
autumn, birdwatchers flock here like the Visitors will have ample opportunity
migrating birds they come to watch. to taste them all.






















Vineyards near Badacsonytomaj with Mount Badacsony in the background, Lake Balaton
The magnificent interior of St Peter’s Cathedral, Pécs



Hun_182_183.indd 183 17/02/2015 12:50

184  HUNGAR Y REGION B Y REGION SOUTHERN TR ANSD ANUBIA  185

Exploring Southern Transdanubia Sights at a Glance
1 Dunaföldvár
Outside the capital, Southern Transdanubia is Hungary’s 2 Paks
most-visited region. Most holiday-makers are attracted by 3 Mohács
the vast Lake Balaton and the many activities it offers. One 4 Duna–Dráva National Park
of the nicest resorts to visit here, and to enjoy the clean, 5 Villány
warm waters of the lake, is the elegant town of Keszthely. 6 Siklós
7 Harkány
The region has great topograph ical diversity, with the 8 Pécs pp190–93
Gemenc forest, the Villány hills and the Dráva river all GyőrGyőr 9 Dombóvár
having an impact. The old town of Veszprém has narrow, HERENDHEREND 0 Kaposvár
cobbled streets and the picturesque Vár Castle, while Pécs is q Szenna
home to many fine galleries. Steeped in history, Southern VESZPRÉMVESZPRÉM w Szigetvár
Trans danubia witnessed a crucial battle: the Ottoman rout VESZPRÉMVESZPRÉM BalatonkeneseBalatonkenese e Nagyatád
of the Habsburg rulers at Mohács in 1526. SopronSopron BALATONALMÁDIBALATONALMÁDI r Siófok
NAGYVÁZSONYNAGYVÁZSONY Interior of the Secession-style town hall, Kaposvár y Keszthely pp200–3
BALATONFÜREDBALATONFÜRED u Héviz
TIHANY PENINSULATIHANY PENINSULA SIÓFOKSIÓFOK i Balatonederics
TAPOLCATAPOLCA BADACSONYBADACSONY BudapestBudapest o Szigliget
BALATON- LAKE BALATON
SZIGLIGET MOUNTAINMOUNTAIN
HÉVIZHÉVIZ BALATON- LAKE BALATON ZamárdiZamárdi ÁdándÁdánd fehérvárfehérvár p Badacsony Mountain
Székes-Székes-
SZIGLIGET
a Tapolca
Sió
KESZTHELYKESZTHELY BalatonszemesBalatonszemes Sió DUNAFÖLDVÁRDUNAFÖLDVÁR s Nagyvázsony
CeceCece
EDERICSEDERICS FonyódFonyód OzoraOzora SimontornyaSimontornya BölcskeBölcske d Tihany Peninsula
BalatonfenyvesBalatonfenyves KarádKarád IregszemcseIregszemcse MadocsaMadocsa f Balatonfüred
g Balatonalmádi
KéthelyKéthely LengyeltótiLengyeltóti PincehelyPincehely h Herend
Kis-Kis- TamásiTamási
balatonbalaton NagydorogNagydorog PAKSPAKS j Veszprém pp208–11
MarcaliMarcali SomogyvárSomogyvár TOLNATOLNA
ZalakarosZalakaros Tour
SzakcsSzakcs GyönkGyönk
SzakálySzakály HőgyészHőgyész t Lake Balaton pp198–9
Kapos
NagykanizsaNagykanizsa SOMOGYSOMOGY Kapos SzedresSzedres FaddFadd
BöhönyeBöhönye Getting Around
NagybajomNagybajom KAPOSVÁRKAPOSVÁR ZombaZomba TolnaTolna
Sió
A glazed bull’s head on the Zsolnay DOMBÓVÁRDOMBÓVÁR Sió The M7 (E71) motorway serves Lake Balaton,
fountain in Pécs SegesdSegesd TaszárTaszár MágocsMágocs SzekszárdSzekszárd though it literally creaks under the pressure
SZENNASZENNA BonyhádBonyhád of traffic during the summer, especially in
ZakányZakány CsurgóCsurgó DecsDecs July and August and at the weekends, and
SásdSásd HidasHidas jams can be long. There are also trains from
NAGYATÁDNAGYATÁD KadarkútKadarkút Budapest-Keleti to the southern Balaton
LábodLábod SzegedSzeged
BoldogasszonyfaBoldogasszonyfa KomlóKomló BátaszékBátaszék resorts, departing every 15 minutes or so in
PécsváradPécsvárad BátaBáta summer. Pécs is served by route 6 from the
Duna (Danube)
capital, which is particularly pretty, as it
Rinya Rinya SZIGETVÁRSZIGETVÁR PÉCSPÉCS Karasica Karasica DunaszekcsőDunaszekcső Duna (Danube) follows the Danube for much of the way.
Public transport connections in the far
SzentlőrincSzentlőrinc LánycsókLánycsók south of Transdanubia are poor, and a car
is needed to explore the area around Pécs.
BarcsBarcs MOHÁCSMOHÁCS
BARANY ABARANY A DUNA-DRÁVA
DUNA-DRÁVA
NATIONAL PARK
NATIONAL PARK
Fekete-víz
Fekete-víz
SIKLÓSSIKLÓS
SellyeSellye VILLÁNYVILLÁNY
Dráva
Dráva HARKÁNYHARKÁNY
Key
Motorway
Major road
Secondary road
Minor road
Main railway
0 kilometres 20
Minor railway
0 miles 20
International border
Yachting on Lake Balaton Regional border Bathing in the Thermal Lake in Héviz
For hotels and restaurants see pp264–269 and pp276–285 For keys to map symbols see back flap
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SOUTHERN TR ANSD ANUBIA  185

Sights at a Glance
1 Dunaföldvár
2 Paks
3 Mohács
4 Duna–Dráva National Park
5 Villány
6 Siklós
7 Harkány
8 Pécs pp190–93
Győr
9 Dombóvár
HEREND 0 Kaposvár
q Szenna
VESZPRÉM w Szigetvár
VESZPRÉM Balatonkenese e Nagyatád
Sopron BALATONALMÁDI r Siófok
NAGYVÁZSONY Interior of the Secession-style town hall, Kaposvár y Keszthely pp200–3
BALATONFÜRED u Héviz
TIHANY PENINSULA SIÓFOK i Balatonederics
TAPOLCA BADACSONY Budapest o Szigliget
SZIGLIGET MOUNTAIN
HÉVIZ BALATON- LAKE BALATON Zamárdi Ádánd fehérvár p Badacsony Mountain
Székes-
a Tapolca
KESZTHELY Balatonszemes Sió DUNAFÖLDVÁR s Nagyvázsony
Cece
EDERICS Fonyód Ozora Simontornya Bölcske d Tihany Peninsula
Balatonfenyves Karád Iregszemcse Madocsa f Balatonfüred
g Balatonalmádi
Kéthely Lengyeltóti Pincehely h Herend
Kis- Tamási
balaton Nagydorog PAKS j Veszprém pp208–11
Marcali Somogyvár TOLNA
Zalakaros Tour
Szakcs Gyönk
Szakály Hőgyész t Lake Balaton pp198–9
Nagykanizsa SOMOGY Kapos Szedres Fadd
Böhönye Getting Around
Nagybajom KAPOSVÁR Zomba Tolna
DOMBÓVÁR Sió The M7 (E71) motorway serves Lake Balaton,
Taszár Mágocs though it literally creaks under the pressure
Segesd Szekszárd
SZENNA Bonyhád of traffic during the summer, especially in
Zakány Csurgó Decs July and August and at the weekends, and
Sásd Hidas jams can be long. There are also trains from
NAGYATÁD Kadarkút Budapest-Keleti to the southern Balaton
Lábod Szeged
Boldogasszonyfa Komló Bátaszék resorts, departing every 15 minutes or so in
Pécsvárad Báta summer. Pécs is served by route 6 from the
capital, which is particularly pretty, as it
Rinya SZIGETVÁR PÉCS Karasica Dunaszekcső Duna (Danube) follows the Danube for much of the way.
Public transport connections in the far
Szentlőrinc Lánycsók south of Transdanubia are poor, and a car
is needed to explore the area around Pécs.
Barcs MOHÁCS
BARANY A DUNA-DRÁVA
NATIONAL PARK
Fekete-víz
SIKLÓS
Sellye VILLÁNY
Dráva HARKÁNY

0 kilometres 20
0 miles 20
Bathing in the Thermal Lake in Héviz
For keys to map symbols see back flap


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186  HUNGAR Y REGION B Y REGION SOUTHERN TR ANSD ANUBIA  187

1 Dunaföldvár 2 Paks experimental and fine artists, startling masks was originally
69 km (43 miles) south of Budapest. 21 km (13 miles) south of Duna földvár. dating from 1980 onwards. devised to scare off the Turks –
Road Map C4. * 9,500. £ from Road Map C4. * 21,000. £ from but it clearly didn’t work.
Paks. @ from Budapest. n Tour- Dunaföldvár. @ from Budapest. E Paks Gallery
inform, Rátkay köz 2, (75) 34 11 76. Szent István tér 4. Tel (75) 83 02 82. 4 Duna–Dráva
There would be little reason to Open 10am–6pm Tue–Fri, noon–6pm
With its elegant central square, visit Paks were it not for the town’s Sat & Sun. 7 National Park
Béke tér, surrounded by well- strikingly modern Catholic Road Map C5. @ to Bárányfok
kept Baroque and Secession Church. Designed by the contro- from Szekszárd. £ narrow-gauge
buildings, especially the versial late Hungarian architect railway from Bárányfok to Pörböly
spire-topped town hall, Imre Makovecz, it was completed (regular service May–Sep only).
Dunaföldvár is one of the in 1988 and is constructed entirely Gemenc Excursion Centre, Bárányfok:
most attractive towns on of wood. Resembling the wooden (20) 566 80 76. Boat tours (summer):
the southern stretch of the churches of the Romanian (74) 49 14 83.
Hungarian Danube. Maramures region, it has three
Overlooking the town spires, which are topped This 500-sq-km (193-sq-mile)
is the Ruined Tower, all with a cross, a sun and game reserve in the Gemenc
that remains of a fort a crescent. The presence Forest is Hungary’s largest
which stood on the of the crescent – a floodplain forest. A national park One of the many wine cellars on Baross Gábor utca in Villány
site in the 16th symbol of Islam – since 1996, it is covered with lakes
century. The tower, caused much furore and fens, and dotted with 5 Villány wines predominate around
on Rátkai utca, when it was unveiled. numerous islands. On many of 21 km (13 miles) southeast of Pécs. Villány; whites, around Siklós
affords superb views The town, which these can be found old willow Road Map C6. * 2,800. £ from (see p188). Visitors can sample
of the city centre, is the site of Hun gary’s Entrance arch to the Mohács trees, high oaks and poplars, Pécs. @ from Budapest. _ Red Wine local wines at the wine cellars
and of the Danube. only nuclear power Memorial Park lilies of the valley on the forest Festival (first week of Oct); European on Bem József utca or Baross
It is reached by station, is also home floor, and wildlife including Wine Song Festival (late Sep). Gábor utca. Four of the town’s
way of the ornate to the Paks Gallery 3 Mohács egrets, bald eagles, herons, vintners have been awarded
wooden castle (Paksi Képtár) of 46 km (29 miles) east of Pécs. Road black storks and stags. Hunting A village of wine cellars, Villány the title of “Wine Maker of
gate, a 19th- Town hall clock tower contemporary art. Map C5. * 20,000. £ from Villány. is restricted to certain areas. is the starting point of the the Year”: Gere, Tiffán, Bock
century replica of in Dunaföldvár Inside the slightly @ from Budapest. 4 cross-Danube Most of the park is pro tected, 14-km (9-mile) Villány–Siklós and Malatinszky.
the original. In the worn but still car ferry. n Tourinform, Széchenyi and there are four ways of Wine Route, the first to be set The village of Villány kövesd,
same courtyard is the Fafaragó imposing Neo-Classical building tér 1, (69) 50 55 15. ( daily, visiting: on a nature trail from up in Hungary in 1994. Wine 4 km (2.5 miles) northeast on
Gallery, dedicated to the are four permanent exhibitions Szabadság tér. _ Busó CarnIval the park’s main entrance, near has been made here since the road to Pécs (and not strictly
town’s woodcarvers. dedicated to the works of local (Shrove Tue; Feb). Bárányfok; with a guide from Roman times, and a small Wine on the Wine Route), is even
the Gemenc Excursion Centre Museum, housed in one of more spectacular than Villány,
On 29 August 1526, in a field at Bárányfok; by narrow-gauge the village’s traditional white- as its many wine-cellar cottages
7 km (4 miles) south of the railway from Bárányfok to washed wine cellars, tells the are set on a split-level terrace.
small town of Mohács, the Turks Pörböly; and by organized boat story of local viticulture. Every The village’s Batthyány cellar,
comprehensively defeated trip. The nature trails vary in year the village hosts a Red built by Italian artisans in 1754,
the Hungarians, clearing the length from 2.5 km (1.5 miles) Wine Festival, dedicated to is one of the venues for per-
last obstacle on their march to 40 km (25 miles). There is promoting Villány wines, formances and events during
to Buda (see box opposite). To also a cycle trail, and bike hire, including Kékoportó, Merlot, the annual European Wine
commemorate the 400th canoe hire, horse riding and Blue Franc and Cabernet; red Song Festival, held in autumn.
anniversary of the Battle of carriage drives can be arranged.
Mohács, a Byzantine church The Battle of Mohács
was erected in the main square,
Széchenyi tér, opposite the The Battle of Mohács is one of the most important battles in
Gothic town hall. The site of Hungarian – and European – history. On 29 August 1526, the
the battle itself is marked by a Turks, having just achieved victory in the Battle of Belgrade, faced
memorial to the soldiers who one final obstacle before reaching Buda: the Magyar garrison at
fell, both in 1526 and in a lesser Mohács. The Turks, however, outnumbered the Magyars three to
battle in 1687. Their mass one, and after a day-long
graves are indicated by painted battle they achieved victory
wooden headstones. Five such by nightfall, killing at least
two-thirds of the estimated
graves have been uncovered 25,000 Hungarian soldiers at
so far, and work is ongoing in arms. The young Hungarian
the Memorial Park. King, Lajos II, was killed during
Mohács comes alive every the battle. The Turks captured
Shrove Tuesday, when it is Buda soon after, and ruled
the scene of the Busó Carnival Hungary for more than 150
(Busójárás). Today, a colourful years. To this day the battle is
event is held to mark the remembered as one of the
pas sing of winter. The ritual of An idyllic spot in the Duna–Dráva greatest Hungarian tragedies. The death of King Lajos II in battle
The organically shaped Catholic Church in Paks with its three spires dressing in rags and wearing National Park
For hotels and restaurants see pp264–269 and pp276–285


186-187_EW_Hungary.indd 186 18/09/17 3:40 pm 186-187_EW_Hungary.indd 187 18/09/17 3:40 pm

SOUTHERN TR ANSD ANUBIA  187


startling masks was originally
devised to scare off the Turks –
but it clearly didn’t work.
4 Duna–Dráva
National Park
Road Map C5. @ to Bárányfok
from Szekszárd. £ narrow-gauge
railway from Bárányfok to Pörböly
(regular service May–Sep only).
Gemenc Excursion Centre, Bárányfok:
(20) 566 80 76. Boat tours (summer):
(74) 49 14 83.
This 500-sq-km (193-sq-mile)
game reserve in the Gemenc
Forest is Hungary’s largest
floodplain forest. A national park One of the many wine cellars on Baross Gábor utca in Villány
since 1996, it is covered with lakes
and fens, and dotted with 5 Villány wines predominate around
numerous islands. On many of 21 km (13 miles) southeast of Pécs. Villány; whites, around Siklós
these can be found old willow Road Map C6. * 2,800. £ from (see p188). Visitors can sample
trees, high oaks and poplars, Pécs. @ from Budapest. _ Red Wine local wines at the wine cellars
lilies of the valley on the forest Festival (first week of Oct); European on Bem József utca or Baross
floor, and wildlife including Wine Song Festival (late Sep). Gábor utca. Four of the town’s
egrets, bald eagles, herons, vintners have been awarded
black storks and stags. Hunting A village of wine cellars, Villány the title of “Wine Maker of
is restricted to certain areas. is the starting point of the the Year”: Gere, Tiffán, Bock
Most of the park is pro tected, 14-km (9-mile) Villány–Siklós and Malatinszky.
and there are four ways of Wine Route, the first to be set The village of Villány kövesd,
visiting: on a nature trail from up in Hungary in 1994. Wine 4 km (2.5 miles) northeast on
the park’s main entrance, near has been made here since the road to Pécs (and not strictly
Bárányfok; with a guide from Roman times, and a small Wine on the Wine Route), is even
the Gemenc Excursion Centre Museum, housed in one of more spectacular than Villány,
at Bárányfok; by narrow-gauge the village’s traditional white- as its many wine-cellar cottages
railway from Bárányfok to washed wine cellars, tells the are set on a split-level terrace.
Pörböly; and by organized boat story of local viticulture. Every The village’s Batthyány cellar,
trip. The nature trails vary in year the village hosts a Red built by Italian artisans in 1754,
length from 2.5 km (1.5 miles) Wine Festival, dedicated to is one of the venues for per-
to 40 km (25 miles). There is promoting Villány wines, formances and events during
also a cycle trail, and bike hire, including Kékoportó, Merlot, the annual European Wine
canoe hire, horse riding and Blue Franc and Cabernet; red Song Festival, held in autumn.
carriage drives can be arranged.
The Battle of Mohács
The Battle of Mohács is one of the most important battles in
Hungarian – and European – history. On 29 August 1526, the
Turks, having just achieved victory in the Battle of Belgrade, faced
one final obstacle before reaching Buda: the Magyar garrison at
Mohács. The Turks, however, outnumbered the Magyars three to
one, and after a day-long
battle they achieved victory
by nightfall, killing at least
two-thirds of the estimated
25,000 Hungarian soldiers at
arms. The young Hungarian
King, Lajos II, was killed during
the battle. The Turks captured
Buda soon after, and ruled
Hungary for more than 150
years. To this day the battle is
remembered as one of the
An idyllic spot in the Duna–Dráva greatest Hungarian tragedies. The death of King Lajos II in battle
National Park




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188  HUNGAR Y REGION B Y REGION SOUTHERN TR ANSD ANUBIA  189


with sulphuric water. As it found. These are on display at the formerly the County Hall.
happens, such sulphuric water – Dombóvár Region Histori cal The museum also presents
said to be a cure for rheumatic and Museum (Dom bó vári an exhibition of local artifacts,
gynaecological disorders – is found Helytörténeti Múzeum), which is including folk art that predates
nowhere else, and the Devil’s work also home to a possibly unique the Magyar invasion.
has become a boon for Harkány. exhibition on the history of the Kaposvár’s town hall
The town’s thermal bath artificial language Esperanto. was built in 1904 in classic
complex was opened in 1823, and Among Dombóvár’s other Secessionist style, though
is today one of the most visited in attractions are the Baroque its slender spire carries a
Hungary. There are large indoor Catholic Church, dating from hint of the late Baroque. It
and outdoor pools as well as a 1757 and once a private chapel is not officially open to the
section for taking mud baths. for the use of the Esterházy public but it is usually
Other waters can be drunk family (see p171). Szigeterdő, a possible to go in and admire
to cure catarrh and stomach pretty park and nature reserve the interior. The frescoes
complaints. Solaria and a on Gyenis Antal utca, houses a above the lobby are by local
range of beauty treatments reconstructed medieval building. artist Géza Udvary, and the
are also available. A short drive north is the tiny fine stained-glass windows
village of Gölle, the birth place of the ceremonial hall are
 Harkány Spa and Open-Air of István Fekete (1900–70), one of the work of the Miksa
Baths Hungary’s most popular 20th- Stained-glass window, town hall Róth workshop.
The impressive path to the drawbridge in Siklós Castle Bajcsy­Zsilinszky utca 2. Tel (72) 58 08 century writers, best known for in Kaposvár A short walk south is the
80. Spa: Open 9am–6pm daily. Open­ his novel Tüskevár, a charming József Rippl-Rónai Memorial
6 Siklós the Serb Orthodox church are Air Baths: Open mid­May–mid­Jun & story of two boys from Buda pest Rippl-Rónai (1861–1927) and Museum, the elegant Roma
also worth seeing. early Sep: 9am–6pm; mid­June–Aug: who spend their summers János Vaszary (1867–1939), two cottage where a number
15 km (9 miles) west of Villány. Road 9am–8pm, subject to weather. &
Map C6. * 11,000. £ from Villány. 7 ∑ harkanyfurdo.hu around Gölle and Lake Balaton. of Hungary’s most important of Rippl-Rónai’s works and
@ from Pécs. n Tourinform, + Siklós Castle Fekete’s childhood home in artists. It was also the birth place personal items are on show.
Felszabadulás utca 3, (72) 57 90 90. Vajda János tér 8. Tel (72) 57 94 27. Gölle is now a small museum. of Imre Nagy (1896–1958),
( daily, Dózsa György utca. Open Jan–Mar: 9:30am–5pm Tue–Sun; 8 Pécs leader of the 1956 revolution E Vaszary Gallery
Apr: 9:30am–5pm Tue–Fri, 9:30am– E Dombóvár Region Historical (see pp48–9). Csokonai utca 1. Tel (82) 51 22 28.
The star attraction in Siklós, the 6pm Sat & Sun; May–mid­Jun & Sep: See pp190–93. Museum The city’s focal point is Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sat.
southernmost town in Hungary, to 6pm daily; mid­Jun–Aug: to 7pm Szabadság utca 16. Tel (74) 46 57 15, Kossuth tér. Most of the main 8 Hungarian only. 7
close to the border with Serbia, daily; Oct: to 5pm daily; Nov & Dec: 9 Dombóvár (mobile) (20) 910 80 66. Open 8am– sights are located around this E Rippl-Rónai Museum
to 5pm Tue–Sun. & 7 -
is Siklós Castle, one of the best­ 4pm Mon–Fri, by appointment Sat & street, including the Vaszary Fő út 10. Tel (82) 31 40 11.
preserved medieval forts in the 39 km (25 miles) north of Pécs. Sun. 8 Hungarian only. 7 Gallery, which displays the Open 10am–4pm Tue–Sun.
country. The fort, which dates back 7 Harkány Road Map C5. * 21,000. paintings of János Vaszary, who & 7
to 1294, has enjoyed something was born in the building. There E József Rippl-Rónai
of a charmed life. Uniquely 25 km (16 miles) southeast of Pécs. Dombóvár and its surrounding are more Vaszary works nearby Memorial Museum
among Hungarian fortresses, it Road Map C6. * 3,400. @ from area is one of the oldest inhab­ in a Neo-Classical building, Fodor József utca 35. Tel (82) 51 00 49.
was spared by the Turks as well Pécs. n Tourinform, Kossuth utca 7, ited regions of Hungary. The ruins the former Somogy County Open Nov–Mar: 10am–4pm Tue–
as the Habsburgs (twice). (72) 47 96 24. ( daily, Bajcsy­Zsilinszky of a 4th­century Roman fortress Museum (now renamed the Sun; Apr–Oct: 10am–6pm Tue–Sun.
The fort’s entrance is via an old utca. ∑ harkanyturizmus.hu were found underneath nearby Rippl-Rónai Museum), 8 recorded tours. 7
drawbridge and through a gate Alsóhetény and the Celts were
decorated elaborately with the According to local legend, the here before that. Relics of even József Rippl-Rónai
Batthyány family coat of arms. Devil ploughed the land around earlier unknown settlers from
From the immacu lately preserved Harkány, and filled the furrows the Bronze Age have also been József Rippl-Rónai (1861–1927) was
ramparts spectacular views of the one of the three most important artists
vineyards of the surrounding area of the Hungarian Secession move ment.
can be enjoyed. Inside the fortress Bust of the Hungarian writer István Fekete, Born in Kaposvár he mastered a pastel-
is a Gothic chapel, decorated with born near Dombóvár like style, seen best in his celebrated
fading but impressive frescoes work Mlle Dutile (1892, József Rippl-
from the late 15th century. 0 Kaposvár Rónai Memorial Museum, Kaposvár).
The Castle Museum, in the fort’s He moved to France when the Art
Nou veau movement was at its peak.
south wing, is equally impressive, 43 km (27 miles) northwest of Pécs. His masterpiece, Woman in White-
containing a collection of medi­ Road Map B5. * 66,000. £ from Spotted Dress (1889, National Gallery,
eval items and an exhibition on Budapest, Pécs. @ from Pécs. Budapest, see pp62–3), was painted
the lives of the various members n Tourinform, Fő utca 8, (82) 51 during this period. It is regarded as the
of the Batthyány family who 29 21. ∑ tourinformkaposvar.hu first Secessionist work by a Hungarian
lived here as late as the 1940s. artist. On a visit to Italy, Rippl-Rónai
Elsewhere in Siklós, the Boasting one of Hungary’s became fascinated by decorative
restored 16th­century largest pedestrian-only zones, mosaics. His later works, including The
Malkocs Bei Mosque, which is Kaposvár is a superb city in Manor House at Körtyvélyes (1907,
full of memorabilia from the which to stroll and enjoy an National Gallery), reflect a move to Rippl-Rónai’s Woman in
Turkish occupation, and the eclectic mix of architecture. The bolder strokes and colour. White-Spotted Dress
colourful 18th­century icons of Exercises in the outdoor pool, Harkány Spa and Open-Air Baths town is the birthplace of József
For hotels and restaurants see pp264–269 and pp276–285


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SOUTHERN TR ANSD ANUBIA  189


found. These are on display at the formerly the County Hall.
Dombóvár Region Histori cal The museum also presents
Museum (Dom bó vári an exhibition of local artifacts,
Helytörténeti Múzeum), which is including folk art that predates
also home to a possibly unique the Magyar invasion.
exhibition on the history of the Kaposvár’s town hall
artificial language Esperanto. was built in 1904 in classic
Among Dombóvár’s other Secessionist style, though
attractions are the Baroque its slender spire carries a
Catholic Church, dating from hint of the late Baroque. It
1757 and once a private chapel is not officially open to the
for the use of the Esterházy public but it is usually
family (see p171). Szigeterdő, a possible to go in and admire
pretty park and nature reserve the interior. The frescoes
on Gyenis Antal utca, houses a above the lobby are by local
reconstructed medieval building. artist Géza Udvary, and the
A short drive north is the tiny fine stained-glass windows
village of Gölle, the birth place of the ceremonial hall are
of István Fekete (1900–70), one of the work of the Miksa
Hungary’s most popular 20th- Stained-glass window, town hall Róth workshop.
century writers, best known for in Kaposvár A short walk south is the
his novel Tüskevár, a charming József Rippl-Rónai Memorial
story of two boys from Buda pest Rippl-Rónai (1861–1927) and Museum, the elegant Roma
who spend their summers János Vaszary (1867–1939), two cottage where a number
around Gölle and Lake Balaton. of Hungary’s most important of Rippl-Rónai’s works and
Fekete’s childhood home in artists. It was also the birth place personal items are on show.
Gölle is now a small museum. of Imre Nagy (1896–1958),
leader of the 1956 revolution E Vaszary Gallery
E Dombóvár Region Historical (see pp48–9). Csokonai utca 1. Tel (82) 51 22 28.
Museum The city’s focal point is Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sat.
Szabadság utca 16. Tel (74) 46 57 15, Kossuth tér. Most of the main 8 Hungarian only. 7
(mobile) (20) 910 80 66. Open 8am– sights are located around this E Rippl-Rónai Museum
4pm Mon–Fri, by appointment Sat & street, including the Vaszary Fő út 10. Tel (82) 31 40 11.
Sun. 8 Hungarian only. 7 Gallery, which displays the Open 10am–4pm Tue–Sun.
paintings of János Vaszary, who & 7
was born in the building. There E József Rippl-Rónai
are more Vaszary works nearby Memorial Museum
in a Neo-Classical building, Fodor József utca 35. Tel (82) 51 00 49.
the former Somogy County Open Nov–Mar: 10am–4pm Tue–
Museum (now renamed the Sun; Apr–Oct: 10am–6pm Tue–Sun.
Rippl-Rónai Museum), 8 recorded tours. 7

József Rippl-Rónai
József Rippl-Rónai (1861–1927) was
one of the three most important artists
of the Hungarian Secession move ment.
Bust of the Hungarian writer István Fekete, Born in Kaposvár he mastered a pastel-
born near Dombóvár like style, seen best in his celebrated
work Mlle Dutile (1892, József Rippl-
Rónai Memorial Museum, Kaposvár).
0 Kaposvár He moved to France when the Art
Nou veau movement was at its peak.
43 km (27 miles) northwest of Pécs. His masterpiece, Woman in White-
Road Map B5. * 66,000. £ from Spotted Dress (1889, National Gallery,
Budapest, Pécs. @ from Pécs. Budapest, see pp62–3), was painted
n Tourinform, Fő utca 8, (82) 51 during this period. It is regarded as the
29 21. ∑ tourinformkaposvar.hu first Secessionist work by a Hungarian
artist. On a visit to Italy, Rippl-Rónai
Boasting one of Hungary’s became fascinated by decorative
largest pedestrian-only zones, mosaics. His later works, including The
Kaposvár is a superb city in Manor House at Körtyvélyes (1907,
which to stroll and enjoy an National Gallery), reflect a move to Rippl-Rónai’s Woman in
eclectic mix of architecture. The bolder strokes and colour. White-Spotted Dress
town is the birthplace of József




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190  HUNGAR Y REGION B Y REGION PÉCS  191

8 Pécs E Archaeological P Király Utca VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Museum Király utca.
Cosmopolitan Pécs, 2010’s European Capital of Culture, calls Széchenyi tér 12. Tel (72) 31 27 19. Largely pedestrianized, Király Practical Information
itself “Hungary’s Mediterranean city”. Given that the sun shines Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun. & 7 utca is an architectural show- Road Map C5. * 156,000.
n Tourinform, Széchenyi tér 7.
here for more than 200 days a year, and that the city’s streets The Archaeological Museum case. Secessionist façades can (72) 51 12 32. _ Spring Festi val
have a very Turkish, even Oriental, feel to them, this is not as features Goths, Huns, Tatars, be seen at Nos. 5 (Palatinus (last 2 weeks Mar); Pécs
Hotel; superb lobby), 8, 10, 19
Visigoths and other invaders,
strange as it may seem. Pécs was founded by the Romans, who but perhaps the highlight is and the National Theatre; the Cultural Heritage Festival
called the place Sopianae, in the 3rd century AD. It served as the story of Roman Sopianae, twin-towered St Pauline Church (2nd and 3rd week Sep).
∑ iranypecs.hu
the capital of Valeria Province and was an early centre of a popular posting for Roman at No. 44 is Baroque.
Roman Christianity – as evidenced by the 4th-century tombs officers. A valuable treasure, Transport
£ Indóház tér. @ Zólyom utca.
on Apáca utca. It was the Turks, however, 1,000 years later, who a bust of Marcus Aurelius u Synagogue
has a room to itself.
Zsinagóga
left the deepest marks on the city’s landscape. No other city Kossuth tér. Tel (72) 31 58 81.
centre in Hungary is quite so dominated by a former mosque U Gazi Kasim Pasha Open May–Oct: 10am–5pm Sun–Fri, U Jakovali Hassan Mosque
as Pécs’s Széchenyi tér (see pp192–3), yet no other city seems Entrance to the Zsolnay Museum, Mosque/ Inner City or by appointment. & 7 Jakovali Hassan Dzámi
quite so at ease with the fact. in the historic centre of Pécs Parish Church This grand Neo-Renaissance Rákóczi út. 2. Tel (20) 400 93 01.
Gazi Kasim Pasha Dzámi/ synagogue, built in the 1860s, Open Apr–Oct: 10am–6pm Tue–Sun;
famous for their unique Belvárosi templom shows the high standing the Nov–Mar: 10am–4pm Fri–Sun, or by
R St Peter’s Cathedral and frescoes in the chapels and the metallic glaze. Also on display Széchenyi tér. Tel (72) 32 19 76. 5,000 practising Jews had in appointment. & 8
Bishops’ Palace reliefs in the crypt by György are items of furniture and Open 9am–5pm Mon–Sat, 1–5pm Pécs society until 1944, Though this 16th-century mosque
Szent Péter Székesegyház Zala. A bronze statue of Janos paintings produced by Sun. & 7 when the Arrow Cross was converted into a Catholic
& Püspöki palota Pannonius, a leading humanist, the family. Built on the site of a Gothic government sent church in 1714, its 23-m- (75-
Dóm tér 2. Tel (72) 51 30 57. stands in front of the cathedral. Christian church in 1579 for all of them to ft-) high minaret is still
Open Apr– Oct: 9am–5pm Mon– Opposite is the attractive E Csontváry Museum Pasha Gazi Kasim, this mosque Auschwitz. Fewer intact (but closed). A
Sat, 11:30am–5pm Sun. 8 7 deep-red, 19th-century Neo- Csontváry Múzeum was the largest in Hungary, than 500 survived. museum since 1975, it
The historic centre of Pécs, Renaissance Bishops’ Palace. Janus Pannonius utca 11. Tel (72) 31 and remains its most impor tant A memorial docu ments the Turkish
Dóm tér, is dominated by It has a statue of Ferenc (Franz) 05 44. Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun. & Turkish monument. Converted commemorates occupation of Pécs.
St Peter’s Cathedral, which Liszt in a raincoat on the 8 7 into a Christian church in those who were Many of the exhib its
was first built as a Neo- southern balcony. The palace Most of Tivadar Csontváry the late 17th century, calli- killed. Services were donated by the
Romanesque church in 1009 is home to one of Hungary’s Kosztka’s (1853–1919) master- graphy at the entrance and take place in the Turkish govern ment as
when St István made Pécs a largest libraries. pieces, including the startling a prayer niche are reminders smaller prayer hall a semi-official apology
bishopric. The original church, View of the Dead Sea from the of its origins. at the side. Façade of Pécs Synagogue in the early 1990s.
burned down in 1064, was E Zsolnay Museum Temple Square in Jerusalem,
replaced by a Baroque Zsolnay Múzeum have been on display in this
cathedral built over nearly 200 Káptalan utca 2. Tel (72) 51 40 45. Neo-Renaissance building Pécs City Centre
years. Badly damaged by the Open May–Oct: 10am–6pm Tue–Sun; since 1973. A tortured soul 1 St Peter’s Cathedral KÁLVÁRIA UT CA
Mongols, it was almost entirely Nov–Apr: 10am–4pm Tue–Sun. & and former pharmacist, and Bishops’ Palace Old Town
rebuilt as a Gothic church in 8 7 = Csontváry Kosztka produced AR ADI VÉR TAN I K Ú T JA Walls PAP N Ö V E L D E UTC A
Zsolnay
the 15th century. The current Located in the oldest-known most of his work in 1903–9, 2 Zsolnay Museum Museum
St Peter’s
edifice, with its four severe house of Pécs, this museum after which he moved to 3 Csontváry Museum Cathedral K ÁP TAL AN U TC A MEGYE UTCA A N N A UT CA DR . M A JORO SSY IM RE UT C A
corner towers, dates from showcases the most significant Naples and went quietly mad. 4 Apáca Street and Early DOM HUNYADI UTCA J Ó Z SE F U T C A
1891, and is the work of pieces of the Zsolnay Ceramic Christian Mausoleum Bishop's TÉR Nemes SZEPESY UTCA M A R I A UTCA Puppet
Museum
Theatre
Viennese architect Friedrich Factory. Zsolnay tiles graced P Apáca Street and Early 5 Archaeological Museum Palace ISTVÁN Archeological JÁNOS UTCA FLORIÁN UTCA
SZENT
Museum
Schmidt. The interior is impres- the palaces of the Austro- Christian Mausoleum 6 Gazi Kasim Pasha Mosque/ ESZE TAMÁS U. TÉR J A N U S PANNONIUS U T C A Gazi Kasim
Csontváry
SZENT MOR UTCA
sive, especially the Károly Lotz Hungarian monarchy and were Apáca utca & Ókeresztény Inner City Parish Church KLI MÓ G YÖR G Y U TC A Museum Mosque
Mauzóleum 7 Király Utca Early Christian SZÉCHENYI KIR Á LY U T C A
TÉR
Mausoleum
Apáca utca 8 & 14. Tel (30) 873 81 16. 8 Synagogue APÁCA UTCA National Theatre
Closed until further notice. 9 Jakovali Hassan Mosque Szerecsen Aquarium- F E L S Ő M A LO M U T C A
Pharmacy
∑ pecsorokseg.hu FE R EN C ES E K UTCA JÓKAI PERC Z E L UTCA Terrarium
M U N K ACS Y UT C A
Four graves at Apáca utca 14, KORHÁZ TÉR Zsolnay Fountain
TÉR
all from c.AD 390, mark one MÁTYÁS KIRÁLY UTCA I RG ALM A T Í M Á R U T C A
of the earliest Christian burial Jakovali Z RIN YI UTC A Synagogue BUDAPEST
Hassan
sites in Europe. The bodies Mosque VÁ R AD I A NTA L U TC A JÓKAI UTCA TERÉZ UT CA S O K U TC A KOSSUTH
are buried under the chapel, TÉR
and not in sarco phagi. The CITROM UTCA R Á KÓ C Z I Ú T
mausoleum, below an exca- 0 metres 100 R Á K Ó C Z I Ú T Ethnographic ALSÓMALOM UT C A
vated chapel, is even older, c. 0 yards 100 Museum Shopping
AD 275. It is decorated with Centre
biblical fres coes. These and RÉ T U T CA SZABADSÁG UTCA JÓKAI UTCA
two further burial chambers Key BA JC SY- ZS I LI NS Z KY U T CA
at Pécs (combined tickets are Street-by-Street pp192–3 JÓZEF A. UTCA NAGY LAJOS KIRÁLY ÚTJA Market Bus
available) have UNESCO World Train Station Station
200 m (220 yards)
St Peter’s Cathedral, with its distinctive corner towers Heritage status. ZÓLYOM UTCA
For hotels and restaurants see pp264–269 and pp276–285 For keys to map symbols see back flap
190-191_EW_Hungary.indd 190 18/09/17 3:40 pm 190-191_EW_Hungary.indd 191 18/09/17 3:40 pm

PÉCS  191


E Archaeological P Király Utca VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Museum Király utca.
Széchenyi tér 12. Tel (72) 31 27 19. Largely pedestrianized, Király Practical Information
Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun. & 7 utca is an architectural show- Road Map C5. * 156,000.
The Archaeological Museum case. Secessionist façades can n Tourinform, Széchenyi tér 7.
features Goths, Huns, Tatars, be seen at Nos. 5 (Palatinus (72) 51 12 32. _ Spring Festi val
Visigoths and other invaders, Hotel; superb lobby), 8, 10, 19 (last 2 weeks Mar); Pécs
but perhaps the highlight is and the National Theatre; the Cultural Heritage Festival
the story of Roman Sopianae, twin-towered St Pauline Church (2nd and 3rd week Sep).
∑ iranypecs.hu
a popular posting for Roman at No. 44 is Baroque.
officers. A valuable treasure, Transport
a bust of Marcus Aurelius u Synagogue £ Indóház tér. @ Zólyom utca.
has a room to itself. Zsinagóga
Kossuth tér. Tel (72) 31 58 81.
U Gazi Kasim Pasha Open May–Oct: 10am–5pm Sun–Fri, U Jakovali Hassan Mosque
Mosque/ Inner City or by appointment. & 7 Jakovali Hassan Dzámi
Parish Church This grand Neo-Renaissance Rákóczi út. 2. Tel (20) 400 93 01.
Gazi Kasim Pasha Dzámi/ synagogue, built in the 1860s, Open Apr–Oct: 10am–6pm Tue–Sun;
Belvárosi templom shows the high standing the Nov–Mar: 10am–4pm Fri–Sun, or by
Széchenyi tér. Tel (72) 32 19 76. 5,000 practising Jews had in appointment. & 8
Open 9am–5pm Mon–Sat, 1–5pm Pécs society until 1944, Though this 16th-century mosque
Sun. & 7 when the Arrow Cross was converted into a Catholic
Built on the site of a Gothic government sent church in 1714, its 23-m- (75-
Christian church in 1579 for all of them to ft-) high minaret is still
Pasha Gazi Kasim, this mosque Auschwitz. Fewer intact (but closed). A
was the largest in Hungary, than 500 survived. museum since 1975, it
and remains its most impor tant A memorial docu ments the Turkish
Turkish monument. Converted commemorates occupation of Pécs.
into a Christian church in those who were Many of the exhib its
the late 17th century, calli- killed. Services were donated by the
graphy at the entrance and take place in the Turkish govern ment as
a prayer niche are reminders smaller prayer hall a semi-official apology
of its origins. at the side. Façade of Pécs Synagogue in the early 1990s.

Pécs City Centre KÁLVÁRIA UT CA
1 St Peter’s Cathedral
PAP N Ö V E L D E UTC A
and Bishops’ Palace AR ADI VÉR TAN I K Ú T JA Old Town
Walls
2 Zsolnay Museum Zsolnay
Museum
3 Csontváry Museum St Peter’s A N N A UT CA
4 Apáca Street and Early Cathedral K ÁP TAL AN U TC A HUNYADI UTCA MEGYE UTCA J Ó Z SE F U T C A DR . M A JORO SSY IM RE UT C A
Christian Mausoleum DOM Nemes SZEPESY UTCA SZENT MOR UTCA Puppet
TÉR
5 Archaeological Museum Bishop's ISTVÁN Museum Archeological M A R I A UTCA Theatre FLORIÁN UTCA
SZENT
Palace
6 Gazi Kasim Pasha Mosque/ ESZE TAMÁS U. TÉR J A N U S PANNONIUS U T C A Museum JÁNOS UTCA
Gazi Kasim
Inner City Parish Church KLI MÓ G YÖR G Y U TC A Csontváry Mosque
Museum
7 Király Utca Early Christian SZÉCHENYI KIR Á LY U T C A
TÉR
Mausoleum
8 Synagogue APÁCA UTCA National Theatre
Szerecsen
9 Jakovali Hassan Mosque Pharmacy PERC Z E L UTCA Aquarium- F E L S Ő M A LO M U T C A
FE R EN C ES E K UTCA JÓKAI Terrarium
KORHÁZ TÉR Zsolnay Fountain
TÉR M U N K ACS Y UT C A
MÁTYÁS KIRÁLY UTCA I RG ALM A
Jakovali Z RIN YI UTC A Synagogue T Í M Á R U T C A BUDAPEST
Hassan
Mosque VÁ R AD I A NTA L U TC A JÓKAI UTCA TERÉZ UT CA S O K U TC A KOSSUTH
TÉR
0 metres 100 R Á K Ó C Z I Ú T CITROM UTCA R Á KÓ C Z I Ú T
Ethnographic ALSÓMALOM UT C A
0 yards 100 Museum
Shopping
Centre
Key SZABADSÁG UTCA BA JC SY- ZS I LI NS Z KY U T CA
RÉ T U T CA
JÓKAI UTCA
JÓZEF A. UTCA NAGY LAJOS KIRÁLY ÚTJA
Street-by-Street pp192–3 Market Bus
Train Station Station
200 m (220 yards)
ZÓLYOM UTCA
For keys to map symbols see back flap
190-191_EW_Hungary.indd 191 18/09/17 3:40 pm

192  HUNGAR Y REGION B Y REGION PÉCS  193

Street-by-Street: Around Széchenyi tér This impressive theatre was
National Theatre
built in 1893–5, in a mix of
Once the bustling medieval heart of Pécs, styles. It hosts first-class opera
comprising a marketplace, meeting point and and ballet performances.
general forum, today Széchenyi tér is a far more
serene and reflective place. Sloping gently from
north to south, the square is dominated – as is much . Király Utca
of Pécs – by the former mosque of Gazi Kasim Pasha, Traffic-free Király utca is
the largest surviving original Islamic construction in lined with shops and cafés,
making it ideal for a stroll. Its
Hungary. It is now a Catholic church and a museum. buildings boast Secessionist
(Palatinus Hotel) and Baroque
Archaeological Museum (St Pauline Church) façades.
. Gazi Kasim Mosque This large collection traces the history of
Correctly known as the Inner human settlement in Pécs from the Early
City Parish Church of Stone Age to the present day.
St Mary, this was for two
centuries the city’s
primary mosque. Its
dome stands 28 m
(92 ft) high.
M Á R I A U T C A
M Á R I A U T C A




H U N Y A D I U T C A

S Z É C H E N Y I K I R Á L Y U T C A
T É R
S Z E P E S Y U T C A
J A N U S P A N N O N I U S U T C A

Zsolnay Museum displays
exquisite examples of Art
Nouveau tiles.





A P Á C A U T C A
A
T C
F E R E N C E S E K U 0 metres 20 Town Hall


0 yards
20
Pécs town hall was built in 1710,
though its tall, slender tower was not
JÓK AI added until 1907.
TÉR
. János Hunyadi Key
Monument Suggested route
The largest equestrian
statue of Hunyadi in
Holy Trinity Monument Hungary, it was erected Zsolnay Fountain
The column, restored by by the local sculptor Pál This outstanding example of Secessionist design pays
György Kiss in 1908, com­ Pátzay in 1956, the homage to Vilmos Zsolnay, who founded the
memorates the victims of a 500th anniversary of Zsolnay tile factory nearby in 1853. It features
plague outbreak in 1710. Hunyadi’s death. the trademark Zsolnay blue glaze.
For hotels and restaurants see pp264–269 and pp276–285


Hun_192-193.indd 192 17/02/2015 12:49 Hun_192-193.indd 193 17/02/2015 12:49

PÉCS  193

National Theatre
This impressive theatre was
built in 1893–5, in a mix of
styles. It hosts first-class opera
and ballet performances.


. Király Utca
Traffic-free Király utca is
lined with shops and cafés,
making it ideal for a stroll. Its
buildings boast Secessionist
(Palatinus Hotel) and Baroque
(St Pauline Church) façades.







M Á R I A U T C A






K I R Á L Y U T C A



















0 metres 20
Town Hall
0 yards 20
Pécs town hall was built in 1710,
though its tall, slender tower was not
added until 1907.
Key
Suggested route

Zsolnay Fountain
This outstanding example of Secessionist design pays
homage to Vilmos Zsolnay, who founded the
Zsolnay tile factory nearby in 1853. It features
the trademark Zsolnay blue glaze.




Hun_192-193.indd 193 17/02/2015 12:49

194  HUNGAR Y REGION B Y REGION SOUTHERN TR ANSD ANUBIA  195


House (Török-Ház), is a small
exhibition of life in the town Hungary’s Minorities
during the Turkish occupation.
On the field where Zrínyi led Some 90 per cent of Hungary’s population are Magyars, but there are also significant
his forces into battle (5 km/ minority groups of Serbs, Germans, Romanians and Jews. In all, 13 minority groups are
3 miles north of the town) recognized, although some (the Palóc, Armenians and Ruthenians, for example) number
stands the Turkish-Hungarian
Friendship Park, set up in 1996 only a handful of people. The largest ethnic minority in Hungary is the Gypsies (Roma).
by both governments. There is The official figure is 400,000, yet many Gypsies see themselves as Hungarians, which
a replica of Sultan Süleyman’s means there could be as many as a million in the country. Until Hungary joined the EU in
tomb, and oversized statues of 2004, it had a less than fine record in its treatment of its ethnic minorities, especially of
the Sultan and of Zrínyi. the Gypsies. Even since then, EU-funded programmes have been only marginally suc-
cessful at integrating the Gypsy population.
E Castle Museum
Vár utca 19. Open check website for
opening times. ∑ szigethvar.hu The museum village of
E Turkish House Hollókő, while primarily a
Bástya utca 3. Tel (73) 51 43 00. tourist attraction, show­
A typical 19th-century house in the open-air folk museum in Szenna & 7 cases Palóc traditions and
culture. Its inhabitants
q Szenna were running desperately wear traditional costume.
Road Map B5. * 750. short of water did they leave e Nagyatád
@ from Kaposvár. the fortress, and even then 28 km (18 miles) north of Barcs.
they did not surrender, Road Map B5. * 13,000. @ from
The open-air Szenna Ethno­ choosing instead to die heroic Kaposvár. n Tourinform, Széchenyi Few Roma still
graphic Museum is unique in though futile deaths in close tér 1/A, Nagyatád (82) 35 15 06. live the romantic
Hungary in that it has been combat. Part of the fortress, life of a traveller.
established in a living village. restored in the 1960s, is the This city has a good thermal Szentendre was Most are on the
Set around the village church, Castle Museum, dedicated to baths complex, with three founded by Serbs fringes of society,
with an un­
five thatched houses with the heroes of the siege. There covered and two large open-air and although they employment
wooden porches were brought is also a monument to the pools as well as drinking cures, no longer make up the rate of almost
here from surrounding villages fallen in the town’s central but Nagyatád is best known for majority population 70 per cent.
in the 1970s. The houses date square, Zrínyi tér. The fortress its unique Statue Park featuring group here, many
from the 1850s, and with their courtyard also houses a former the works of a local wood- Serbs still celebrate
large kitchens are typical of mosque, which was carvers’ collective. The Easter according to
post-revolutionary architecture built by the Turks park was set up in the Orthodox Julian
in Hungary. All are decorated after their victory. 1975, in an effort calendar.
in the vernacular style. The Another former to preserve the
whitewashed Calvinist church, mosque, also on wood carving
erected in 1787 to a late Zrínyi tér, is today a skills of the region.
Baroque design, is famous Catholic church. It There are 64 People in Sopron in 1921
for its ceiling: the artist Tildy was converted in A wooden wheel in the monumental voted to stay in Hungary rather
Zoltán painted it with 117 1789, when the statues (some more than join Austria. Over the next
unique flowers, reflecting frescoes by István Statue Park in Nagyatád than 7 m/23 ft high) few decades most ethnic
the rich flora of the Somogy Dorfmeister were in all, laid out in a Germans moved away, but The popular image of Gypsy
region. Visitors can also admire painted. In the house at Bástya spacious and attractive park to since 1990 many have musicians is a cigányzenekar, which is
the highly decorated wooden utca 3, the so-called Turkish the south of the city centre. returned, which has given the a Gypsy band. It is one of the few ways
crown above the pulpit and Considered living art, there are city a very international feel. Gypsies can earn a living in Hungary.
the pews that are installed no restrictions on touching or
over two levels. even climbing the statues,
making this a great place to
introduce children to sculpture.
w Szigetvár Another 24 wooden statues can
33 km (21 miles) west of Pécs. be found in the city’s public
Road Map B5. * 12,000. squares and buildings.
£ from Pécs. @ from Pécs. The surrounding countryside
offers superb hiking routes
At the siege of Szigetvár, in in the Forest Park (Parkerdő) Many Orthodox Romanians are
1566, Captain Miklós Zrínyi and and the Rower Lake settled in and around the eastern town
a small band of soldiers held (Csónakázótó) nearby. Budapest today is home to one of Europe’s most of Gyula. Although the two countries
the town’s fortress against a dynamic Jewish communities. Budapest’s synagogue have had a strained relationship for
Turkish attacking force of over E Nagyatád Statue Park is Europe’s largest, and the city boasts many Jewish centuries, more than 80,000 Romanians
100,000 for 22 days. Only when Exhibits in the former mosque inside the Göröndi út. Tel (82) 35 14 97. theatres, schools and kosher restaurants. choose to live in Hungary.
the beleaguered Hungarians Szigetvár fortress Open daily. 8 Hungarian only. 7
For hotels and restaurants see pp264–269 and pp276–285


194-195_EW_Hungary.indd 194 18/09/17 3:40 pm 194-195_EW_Hungary.indd 195 18/09/17 3:40 pm

SOUTHERN TR ANSD ANUBIA  195


Hungary’s Minorities

Some 90 per cent of Hungary’s population are Magyars, but there are also significant
minority groups of Serbs, Germans, Romanians and Jews. In all, 13 minority groups are
recognized, although some (the Palóc, Armenians and Ruthenians, for example) number
only a handful of people. The largest ethnic minority in Hungary is the Gypsies (Roma).
The official figure is 400,000, yet many Gypsies see themselves as Hungarians, which
means there could be as many as a million in the country. Until Hungary joined the EU in
2004, it had a less than fine record in its treatment of its ethnic minorities, especially of
the Gypsies. Even since then, EU-funded programmes have been only marginally suc-
cessful at integrating the Gypsy population.

The museum village of
Hollókő, while primarily a
tourist attraction, show­
cases Palóc traditions and
culture. Its inhabitants
wear traditional costume.


Few Roma still
live the romantic
life of a traveller.
Most are on the
Szentendre was fringes of society,
founded by Serbs with an un­
and although they employment
no longer make up the rate of almost
majority population 70 per cent.
group here, many
Serbs still celebrate
Easter according to
the Orthodox Julian
calendar.


People in Sopron in 1921
voted to stay in Hungary rather
than join Austria. Over the next
few decades most ethnic
Germans moved away, but The popular image of Gypsy
since 1990 many have musicians is a cigányzenekar, which is
returned, which has given the a Gypsy band. It is one of the few ways
city a very international feel. Gypsies can earn a living in Hungary.









Many Orthodox Romanians are
settled in and around the eastern town
Budapest today is home to one of Europe’s most of Gyula. Although the two countries
dynamic Jewish communities. Budapest’s synagogue have had a strained relationship for
is Europe’s largest, and the city boasts many Jewish centuries, more than 80,000 Romanians
theatres, schools and kosher restaurants. choose to live in Hungary.





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198  HUNGAR Y REGION B Y REGION SOUTHERN TR ANSD ANUBIA  199


t Lake Balaton Tour
1 Zamárdi Tips for Drivers
A world away from
Lake Balaton is often referred to as Budapest-on-Sea, noisy Siófok, Zamárdi is Length: 87 km (54 miles)
and during the summer months it may seem as if half the home to some fine Stopping-off points: All of the
shore resorts have a wide range
population of the capital has decamped here. Lake Balaton, thatched cottages, of restaurants to choose from.
including this arcaded
however, at 596 sq km (230 sq miles) the largest lake in house on Fő utca, now For a quieter ambience, the
central Europe, is big enough to cope, and even in the high the village’s museum. many small places in Buzsák
season the visitor is never far from a peaceful spot. Most are recom mended. The best
panoramic lake views are from
of the southern side of the lake is very shallow, with an the top of Bokros-hegy, above
average depth of just 3.5 m (11 ft), and the waters are Balatonberény.
fairly warm, making this the most popular shore with 2 Balatonföldvár ∑ balaton-tourism.hu
Look out for the remains of the Iron
bathers and families. Age fortifications (földvár) that gave this VeszprémVeszprém BalatonfűzfőBalatonfűzfő
small town its name. The village’s leafy
Marina in Siófok, departure point for pleasure q Kis-Balaton promenade is generally considered
cruises and water sports The Kis-Balaton the finest on the lake’s south shore. BalatonalmádiBalatonalmádi BalatonkeneseBalatonkenese
nature reserve at the
r Siófok mouth of the Zala BudapestBudapest
river covers an area 3 Kőröshegy
88 km (54 miles) southwest of Buda- of 40 sq km (15 sq A short detour south of VeszprémVeszprém
pest. Road Map C4. * 23,000. miles). It is inhabited Balatonföldvár is Kőröshegy,
£ from Buda pest. @ from Buda pest. by many rare plants where a well-preserved J J
4 from Balatonfüred, Tihany. n and animals. Gothic fortified church BalatonfüredBalatonfüred
Tourinform, Fő tér 11, (84) 69 62 36. was built in 1460.
_ Siófok Summer Evenings (Jun–
Aug). ∑ siofokportal.com
TihanyTihany
0 Balatonberény
The largest and liveliest resort on One of the first genuine resorts on the J SiófokSiófok
J
Lake Balaton’s southern coast, lake to become popular, Balatonberény ZánkaZánka SzekszárdSzekszárd
Siófok stretches along the shore retains a late 19th-century charm, most J J
for 17 km (11 miles). It is popular apparent in its delightful lakeside
with weekenders from Budapest, cottages and rural houses. TapolcaTapolca
many of whom have holiday SopronSopron
L a k e B a l a t o
homes in the town. The main BadacsonytomajBadacsonytomaj
attraction is the beach. It is split
in two parts – Aranypart (Golden L a k e B a l a t o n n BalatonlelleBalatonlelle
Shore) to the north and Ezüst- ZalaegerszegZalaegerszeg KeszthelyKeszthely BalatonboglárBalatonboglár HalastóHalastó
J
J
part (Silver Shore) to the south – J J
by the Sió canal, which was J J J KaposvárKaposvár 4 Balatonszemes
J
originally built by the Romans in This quiet resort has a Postal and
AD 276. Like all of Lake Balaton’s Carriage Museum. Its tree-lined
resorts, however, Siófok offers streets are ideal for a stroll and
mainly grass beaches. The nearby is an aquapark.
resort’s marina is at the head of
the canal, from where pleasure LengyeltótiLengyeltóti
cruisers and ferries depart for the BarcsBarcs 0 kilometres 10
Tihany Peninsula (see p206). 0 miles 5
The port is a good place to find
sailing boats for hire, and to
organize a variety of other water NagykanizsaNagykanizsa 8 Balatonfenyves 5 Somogyvár
sports (see p291). This small resort is very popular Somogyvár is well worth the detour
with families. A miniature railway
Visitors should note that ZalakarosZalakaros runs to a nearby thermal bath. south from Buzsák – the impressive ruins
during the summer nights KaposvárKaposvár of the Benedictine monastery here date
Siófok comes alive with tens back to the 11th century. Key
of thousands of young people
looking for a good time in 6 Buzsák Motorway
the resort’s innumerable bars, 9 Balatonmáriafürdő 7 Fonyód The Living Museum of Arts and Tour route
discos and nightclubs, many This lively resort attracts Unremarkable as a resort, Crafts at Buzsák is the best place Major road
of which are in the open air. water sports enthusiasts Fonyód sits at the foot of the around Balaton to learn about the Other road
If an early, quiet night is and those looking for a largest hill on the southern traditions of the lake and its
required, one of the smaller good range of bars and shore, Várhegy (233 m/764 ft), people. Fine cloth, pottery and Major railway
resorts along the coast would restaurants. which is an extinct volcano. costumes are still made here. Ferry line
be a far better option.
Pontoon and pavilion on Lake Balaton at Keszthely For keys to map symbols see back flap
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