(DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Hungary

SOUTHERN TR ANSD ANUBIA  199



1 Zamárdi Tips for Drivers
A world away from
noisy Siófok, Zamárdi is Length: 87 km (54 miles)
home to some fine Stopping-off points: All of the
thatched cottages, shore resorts have a wide range
including this arcaded of restaurants to choose from.
house on Fő utca, now For a quieter ambience, the
the village’s museum. many small places in Buzsák
are recom mended. The best
panoramic lake views are from
the top of Bokros-hegy, above
Balatonberény.
2 Balatonföldvár ∑ balaton-tourism.hu
Look out for the remains of the Iron
Age fortifications (földvár) that gave this Veszprém Balatonfűzfő
small town its name. The village’s leafy
promenade is generally considered
the finest on the lake’s south shore. Balatonalmádi Balatonkenese
3 Kőröshegy Budapest
A short detour south of Veszprém
Balatonföldvár is Kőröshegy,
where a well-preserved J
Gothic fortified church Balatonfüred
was built in 1460.

Tihany
Siófok
J
Zánka Szekszárd
J
Tapolca
Sopron
L a k e B a l a t o n Balatonlelle
Badacsonytomaj
Zalaegerszeg Keszthely J Balatonboglár Halastó
J J Kaposvár 4 Balatonszemes
J
This quiet resort has a Postal and
Carriage Museum. Its tree-lined
streets are ideal for a stroll and
nearby is an aquapark.
Lengyeltóti
Barcs 0 kilometres 10
0 miles 5

5 Somogyvár
Nagykanizsa
Somogyvár is well worth the detour
Zalakaros south from Buzsák – the impressive ruins
of the Benedictine monastery here date
Kaposvár back to the 11th century.
Key
6 Buzsák Motorway
7 Fonyód The Living Museum of Arts and Tour route
Unremarkable as a resort, Crafts at Buzsák is the best place Major road
Fonyód sits at the foot of the around Balaton to learn about the Other road
largest hill on the southern traditions of the lake and its
shore, Várhegy (233 m/764 ft), people. Fine cloth, pottery and Major railway
which is an extinct volcano. costumes are still made here. Ferry line

For keys to map symbols see back flap


Hun_198-199.indd 199 17/02/2015 12:49

200  HUNGAR Y REGION B Y REGION

y Keszthely nearby. During restoration work
in 1974, remains of 14th- and
Keszthely is the oldest of the towns that line the banks of 15th-century frescoes were
Lake Balaton. Many of its elegant streets effortlessly preserve discovered. Lost during the Turkish
the small-town atmosphere of the 19th century, when the occu pation, when the church
town was the sole property of the Festetics family, whose served as a fortress, these
represent the largest collection
Baroque family seat, Festetics Palace (see pp202–3), is one of Gothic frescoes remaining in
of Hungary’s finest stately homes. The town possesses Hungary. The fine rose window
one of the few genuinely sandy beaches on the lake, and above the western portal is also
it is also the cultural hub of Balaton. Since the conversion an original feature of the church.
in 2006 of a nearby former Soviet airfield into Hévíz-Balaton E Doll and Waxwork
Airport and the expansion of the M7 motorway, Keszthely’s Museum
attractions are more easily accessible than ever. Történelmi Panoptikum
Kossuth Lajos utca 10–11. Tel (83) 31
88 55. Open May–Sep: 9am–6pm;
Oct–Apr: 10am–5pm. &
∑ babamuzeum-keszthely.hu
The highlight of this complex of
museums is a collection of 700
porcelain dolls, each wearing the
traditional costume of one partic-
ular Hungarian village, together
with more than 200 scale models
of village buildings, including
houses, stables and churches.
More esoteric collections
include about 50 life-size wax-
works of eminent Hungarians,
from Árpád to Imre Nagy;
a museum of torture; and a
display of Renaissance wax-
Church and former monastery buildings on Keszthely’s main square modelled erotica. Don’t miss
the Snail Parliament, an aston-
P Festetics Palace (33-ft) spire is an 19th-century ishing 7-m- (23-ft-) long model
See pp202–3. addition. The crypt holds the of Hungary’s Parliament that was
tomb of György Festetics, made by Ilona Miskei from more
P Fő tér and Town Hall the patriarch of the Festetics family than four million sea-snail shells.
Polgármesteri Hivatal and uncle of István Széchenyi.
Fő tér. The church was origi nally built E Georgikon Farm Museum
At the heart of Keszthely is in Gothic style using stone taken Georgikon Majortörténeti
the attractive, bustling Fő tér, from an old Roman settlement Kiállítóhely
dominated on its northern side Bercsényi Miklós utca 65–7. Tel (83) 31
by the late Baroque, town hall. 15 63. Open Apr & Oct: 10am–5pm
The town hall was built after Mon–Fri; May–Sep: 10am–5pm Tue–
1769, although the façade was Sun. & 8 Hungarian and German
extensively remodelled in the only. 7 ∑ elmenygazdasag.hu
1860s. The square is one of Europe’s first Academy of
the hubs of the town’s charming Agriculture was set up here by
Verkli Festival in September, György Festetics, in 1797. This
when the air is filled by the working museum traces the
fluting tones of dozens of history of Hungarian agriculture
fairground and barrel organs. from Celtic times to the present
day. There are displays on wine
R Fő tér Church production in the Balaton area,
Fő téri templom as well as antique agricultural
Fő tér 5. Tel (83) 31 24 59. equip ment from Bronze Age
This grand building, towering tools to steam ploughs and an
over the southern side of the early motor tractor. Visitors can
square, is the former church and try their hand at traditional
monastery of the Franciscans, farming methods, and there
built in the 14th century. The tall Stained-glass window featuring the Virgin are animals to meet and farm
Neo-Gothic tower with a 10-m and Child in Fő tér Church buildings to explore for children.
For hotels and restaurants see pp264–269 and pp276–285


200-201_EW_Hungary.indd 200 18/09/17 3:37 pm

KESZTHEL Y  201


VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
37 km (23 miles) E of Zalaerg er-
szeg. Road Map B4. * 20,400.
n Tourinform, Kossuth utca 30,
(83) 31 41 44. _ Helikon Festival
(end Apr every second year); Verkli
Festival (early Sep). ∑ keszthely.
info.hu
Transport
k Hévíz-Balaton Airport. £
@ Mártírok útja. 4 Hajóállomás,
Promenading and people-watching on pedestrianized Kossuth Street Bal- atonpart from Szigliget,
Badacsony, Balatonmáriafürdő.
P Kossuth Street E Balaton Museum @ Bercsényi utca.
Kossuth utca. Balatoni Múzeum
Keszthely’s main, pedestrianized Múzeum utca 2. Tel (83) 31 23 51.
thoroughfare is markedly the Open May–Aug: daily; Sep–Apr: Tue– effects of pollution on life in the
widest street in the older part Sat. 8 7 lake. Also shown is Roman stone-
of the town, lined with some The mustard-yellow Neo-Baroque ware from the region and an
fine houses, many of them pro- Balaton Museum building, erected original milestone to Aquincum
tected buildings. The oldest, at in the 1920s to a design by Dénes (see p114), 69 km (43 miles) away.
No. 22, is the birth place of the Györgyi, is well worth seeing in
Hungarian-Jewish composer its own right. The exhibitions
Karl Goldmark. With its porticoes inside are equally interesting and
and covered upper-level loggia, include a fascinating look at life
the house is Mediterranean around Lake Balaton in pre-Roman
in feel. Just behind, in a leafy times and displays showing the
courtyard, is Keszthely’s well- development of fishing on
preserved Neo-Renaissance the lake. Children will love the
synagogue. Originally dating models of sailing ships, steamers
from 1780, it was entirely rebuilt and paddle boats that once
in 1851–2 and assumed its traversed the lake. A more The beautiful retro beach exhibit at the
current appearance in 1894. sombre display explains the Balaton Museum

Keszthely City Centre
Coach Festetics CSERSZEG UTCA VÁSÁR TÉR
1 Festetics Palace pp202–3 Museum Palace KATONA JÓZSEF UTCA
2 Fő tér and Town Hall Marzipan
Museum
3 Fő tér Church PÁ L U TC A KASTELY U. RÁKÓCZI TA POLCAI UTCA
TÉR
4 Doll and Waxwork Museum S ZALAS ZT Ó UTCA
5 Georgikon Farm Museum G EO RG IKON U TC A KISFALUDY U. ERKEL UTCA
Doll and
6 Kossuth Street Waxwork DÓZSA UTCA
Museum
7 Balaton Museum BE M J . U T CA LO VA S S Y S Á N D O R U T C A
Georgikon Farm VAROSHÁZ UTCA UT C A
Museum ADY E N DR E U T TESSEDIK UTCA
Town Hall M A LO M UT C A
SZECH ENYI UT C A FŐ Fő tér
ISKOLA UTCA TÉR Church MÓRA FERENC UTCA
PETŐFI UTC A
SORHAZ UTCA H ELIKON UTCA ER Z SÉB E T K I RÁLYN É ÚT J A APÁT UTC A
K OS SU T H LA J O S HUNYADI UTCA PA RK U TC A Helikon BOR BA S V IN C E S ÉTÁN Y
BALATON ÚT
R Á K Ó C Z I F E R E N C Ú T
ZRINYI UTCA
VA K BO TT YAN UT C A
Park
D E AK FER EN C UT C A
BE RC S ÉN YI MI KLÓS U T CA
GAGAR I N U TC A
MUNKÁCSY M. U. SÓHAJ ALLÉ CZY U T C A
Balaton MÁR TÍ R OK ÚTJA K A ZI N
ROZSA UTCA Museum
Sports
0 metres 300 Stadium Bus C SÍ K F E R E N C SÉTÁ NY
0 yards 300 SZ EN T M IK LÓ S U T CA M AD ACH UT CA Station Train Station
F E ST E T I C S U T C A RÓM AI ÚT H O N VÉ D U T C A Balaton
Lake
BERI BALOG ADAM U.
Héviz-Balaton Airport
10 km (6 miles)
For keys to map symbols see back flap
200-201_EW_Hungary.indd 201 06/10/2017 14:36

202  HUNGAR Y REGION B Y REGION SOUTHERN TR ANSD ANUBIA  203

Festetics Palace and Helikon Palace Museum . Mirror Room VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
The ornate Mirror
Originally the home of the Festetics family, the . Baroque Tower Room, also known Practical Information
as the Main Hall,
stately, Neo-Baroque Festetics Palace dates in its The tower was inspired regularly hosts Kastély utca 1, Keszthely. Road
Map B4. Tel (83) 31 21 90.
earliest parts to 1745; the final phase of building, by the Zwinger in chamber music n Tourinform, Kossuth utca 30,
by little-known architect Viktor Rumpelmayer, Dresden, Germany, concerts and (83) 31 41 44. Open May, Jun &
while the northern
dates to 1883–7. The family was forced to flee in wing (left of the tower operettas. Sep: 10am– 5pm daily; Jul & Aug:
9am–6pm daily; Oct–Apr: 10am–
1944, after which the palace was occupied by the here) was based on 5pm Tue–Sun. & 8 7 - =
German Army, then the Soviets; it was opened as Vienna’s Belvedere. charge for photography and use
of video ca meras. ∑ helikon
a museum in 1974. About a quarter of the palace’s kastely.hu
101 rooms are open to the public, and feature fine Transport
art, furniture and memorabilia from the Festetics £ @ 4
Main
family. Adjacent buildings house a superb model entrance
railway, an exhibition of weaponry and hunting
trophies and a carriage museum. The palace is also
famous for its extensive library and its magnificent
English-style gardens.





Chapel
. English Gardens The small, private Festetics
English – not French – Chapel was built in 1801,
stately homes were the remaining unchanged by the
inspiration for the palace enlargements of the 1880s.
gardens. They were laid out
by the English landscape
artist Henry Ernest Miller.





Portrait Gallery
Portraits of almost
every member of
the Festetics family,
Croatian in origin,
as well as of related . Library
European nobility, The panelled Helikon Library holds over 80,000
line the walls of volumes on its oak shelves. Hungary’s literary
. Palm House the palace. elite gathered here in György Festetics’s time.
The Palm House was built in 1880 using
structural elements made in Paris by
Gustave Eiffel. It was reopened in 2012
and exhibits rare exotic flow ers and plants
from the Mediterranean and the trop ics,
as well as a bird park that opened in 2016. György Festetics
A polymath who combined a love of the land and the arts with the
KEY progressive ideals of the Enlightenment, György Festetics (1755–1819)
Carriage Museum was the grandson of Kristóf Festetics, who purchased the lands for the
1 Rounded Belvedere-style In the palace’s former stables, family estate here in 1739. György Festetics is best known for founding
Tower of Northern Wing the Carriage Museum is home the Georgikon at Keszthely in 1797 (see p200), Europe’s first agricultural college.
2 Rooms are each decorated in to a priceless collection of A generous patron of the arts, he organized cultural events including poetry
and music festivals at the palace. He substantially expanded the palace’s
a different colour scheme and hunting and parade coaches, library, employing librarians and bookbinders to curate his literary treasures. Statue of György
fully furnished. carriages and sleighs from the Festetics
18th and 19th centuries.
For hotels and restaurants see pp264–269 and pp276–285


202-203_EW_Hungary.indd 202 18/09/17 3:37 pm 202-203_EW_Hungary.indd 203 18/09/17 3:37 pm

SOUTHERN TR ANSD ANUBIA  203


. Mirror Room VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
The ornate Mirror
Room, also known Practical Information
as the Main Hall, Kastély utca 1, Keszthely. Road
regularly hosts Map B4. Tel (83) 31 21 90.
chamber music n Tourinform, Kossuth utca 30,
concerts and (83) 31 41 44. Open May, Jun &
operettas. Sep: 10am– 5pm daily; Jul & Aug:
9am–6pm daily; Oct–Apr: 10am–
5pm Tue–Sun. & 8 7 - =
charge for photography and use
of video ca meras. ∑ helikon
kastely.hu
Transport
£ @ 4













Chapel
The small, private Festetics
Chapel was built in 1801,
remaining unchanged by the
enlargements of the 1880s.








Portrait Gallery
Portraits of almost
every member of
the Festetics family,
Croatian in origin,
as well as of related . Library
European nobility, The panelled Helikon Library holds over 80,000
line the walls of volumes on its oak shelves. Hungary’s literary
the palace. elite gathered here in György Festetics’s time.




György Festetics
A polymath who combined a love of the land and the arts with the
progressive ideals of the Enlightenment, György Festetics (1755–1819)
was the grandson of Kristóf Festetics, who purchased the lands for the
family estate here in 1739. György Festetics is best known for founding
the Georgikon at Keszthely in 1797 (see p200), Europe’s first agricultural college.
A generous patron of the arts, he organized cultural events including poetry
and music festivals at the palace. He substantially expanded the palace’s Statue of György
library, employing librarians and bookbinders to curate his literary treasures.
Festetics





202-203_EW_Hungary.indd 203 18/09/17 3:37 pm

204  HUNGAR Y REGION B Y REGION SOUTHERN TR ANSD ANUBIA  205


stands on a small peninsula
that – as the castle’s name
suggests – was once an island.
The last waters receded about
the time the castle was
destroyed, in 1702, after an
explosion in the gunpowder
store. Some of the towers, part
of the living quarters and the
stables remain. The ruins are
a steep, 30-minute walk uphill
from the village, but the
picturesque thatched cottages
The Central Pavilion, dominating the relaxing warm waters of the thermal lake in Hévíz that line the route up and the
u Hévíz i Balatonederics és Állatkert). Founded in 1984 stunning views from the top
make the climb worthwhile.
6 km (4 miles) north of Keszthely. 14 km (9 miles) east of Keszthely. by a Hungarian big-game The village itself is dominated
Road Map B4. * 5,000. @ from Road Map B4. * 1,200. £ from hunter, Dr Endre Nagy, the by Esterházy Mansion, a Neo- Badacsony Mountain, as seen from Szigliget Castle
Keszthely. n Tourinform, Rákóczi Tapolca, Keszthely. @ from Tapolca, museum is home to Nagy’s Classical 19th-century building,
utca 2, (83) 54 01 31. Keszthely. hunting trophies and ethno- now a hotel for the exclusive Grey Friar wine (Szürkeberát) squares and colourful
graphical memo rabilia that use of the Hungarian Writers’ can be sampled. The second 19th-century houses. Many
With its vast Central Pavilion in Balatonederics is one of the he collected in Tanzania. In Union. The hotel’s exten sive wine-press house on the trail have been converted into
the middle of what is the oldest settlements on Lake the Safari Park, African animals gardens are open to the public. was once Kisfaludy’s home, bars and restaurants, with
world’s largest thermal water Balaton, its name first including buffalo, zebra and Szigliget also has a pleasantly and today is also a wine cellar terraces overlooking the lake.
lake, Hévíz is a spectacular mentioned as long ago as camels – which can be ridden – quiet grass beach and an offering tastings. There are An early 19th-century
sight. Covered with Indian 1262. The Roman Catholic roam freely, next to original attractive harbour, always great views from its terrace. watermill in the middle of
water lilies, which flower church that stands in the Masai huts. cheerful with its show of Passing Rose Rock, where the the mill pond is now the Hotel
in early September, Lake village centre was built about colourful sailing boats. couple met, the trail continues Gabriella. What most visitors
Hévíz has been used for the same time, originally as O Africa Museum and Safari Park to the top, from where longer, really come to Tapolca for,
bathing and treatments a Roman esque structure. Kültelek 11. Tel (87) 46 61 05. p Badacsony more strenuous hikes depart how ever, is the Cave Lake
since 1795. Up to It received its present Open Apr–Oct: 9am–4pm daily for two other hills, Gulács-hegy (Tavas-barlang), a short walk from
30 m (98 ft) deep, Neo-Gothic look (to 5:30pm Jun–Aug). & 8 7 Mountain and Szent György-hegy. the town centre. The lake lies
the lake has a surface during renovation ∑ afrikamuzeum.hu 30 km (19 miles) east of Keszthely. 18 m (59 ft) below the surface.
area of 47,500 sq m work in 1870–71. Road Map B4. * 2,400. £ from It was dis covered by accident
(56,800 sq yards) The Holy Trinity Tapolca. @ from Tapolca. 4 from a Tapolca when a well was being sunk
and a temperature monument in o Szigliget Keszthely, Fonyód. n Tourinform, 26 km (16 miles) northeast of Kesz thely. in 1902, and is reached via
of 36º C (96.8° F) front of the church 20 km (12 miles) east of Keszthely. Park utca 14, Badacsony, (87) 43 10 46. Road Map B4. * 18,000. £ from a steep staircase. Part of the
in summer. It is Fountain in front of the entrance dates from 1871. Road Map B4. * 1,000. £ from Budapest, Keszthely. @ from Budapest. 300-m (328-yard) cave system
replenished by to Hévíz thermal baths An exclusive resort Keszthely. @ from Keszthely. Beginning at the railway station n Tourinform, Fő tér 17, (87) 51 07 77. can be seen from dry land,
a spring that without hotels, 4 from Keszthely. in lovely Badacsony village is though much more can be
produces 420 litres (92 gallons) Balaton ederics nevertheless a well-marked and fairly gentle Encircled by 14 cone-shaped explored in a rented boat.
of water per second. Even in welcomes hundreds of Underneath the ruins of the trail, sign posted in yellow, hills of basalt rock, Tapolca has
winter the water temperature thousands of day trippers a year, 13th-century Szigliget Castle which winds its way up to one of the most specta cular T Tapolca Cave Lake
never drops below 28º C all visiting its Africa Museum (often referred to as Óvár, Old the Kisfaludy Look out Tower settings of any town on Lake Kisfaludy utca 3. Tel (87) 41 25 79.
(82.4° F). The water is slightly and Safari Park (Afrika Múzeum Castle), the village of Szigliget at the top of Badacsony Balaton. Equally pictur esque is Open Jul & Aug: 9am–8pm daily;
radioactive and recomm- Moun tain (437 m/1,434 ft). the thermal pond in the centre Sep–Jun: 10am–4:30pm daily. &
ended for the treatment of An extinct volcano, this offers of the town, encircled by little ∑ tavasbarlang.hu
rheumatism and arthritis. It the best hiking in the Balaton
also tastes surprisingly good, area, with spectacular views
and is used to treat stomach from the top across the lake.
disorders. The radioactive On the way up, almost
mud from the lake floor is hidden among the vineyards
also therapeutic. that cover the volcanic soil, are
Although most patrons prefer two superb former wine-press
to bathe outside, even in winter, houses. The first, 3 km (2 miles)
there is a small indoor pool. from Badacsony, is the Róza
Hévíz also has the best range Szegedy House, named after
of hotels in the area. the wife of the 18th-century
poet Sándor Kisfaludy. The
 Lake Hévíz couple met on the mountain
Dr Schulhof Vilmos sétány 1. Tel (83) and the house contains a small
50 17 00. Open May–Oct: 8am–7pm display dedi cated to Kisfaludy’s
daily; Nov–Apr: 9am–6pm daily. poetry, as well as a wine cellar
& 7 ∑ spaheviz.hu A camel at the Africa Museum and Safari Park in Balatonederics where the locally produced Tapolca’s unique attraction, the mysterious Cave Lake
For hotels and restaurants see pp264–269 and pp276–285


204-205_EW_Hungary.indd 204 18/09/17 3:40 pm 204-205_EW_Hungary.indd 205 18/09/17 3:40 pm

SOUTHERN TR ANSD ANUBIA  205


stands on a small peninsula
that – as the castle’s name
suggests – was once an island.
The last waters receded about
the time the castle was
destroyed, in 1702, after an
explosion in the gunpowder
store. Some of the towers, part
of the living quarters and the
stables remain. The ruins are
a steep, 30-minute walk uphill
from the village, but the
picturesque thatched cottages
that line the route up and the
stunning views from the top
make the climb worthwhile.
The village itself is dominated
by Esterházy Mansion, a Neo- Badacsony Mountain, as seen from Szigliget Castle
Classical 19th-century building,
now a hotel for the exclusive Grey Friar wine (Szürkeberát) squares and colourful
use of the Hungarian Writers’ can be sampled. The second 19th-century houses. Many
Union. The hotel’s exten sive wine-press house on the trail have been converted into
gardens are open to the public. was once Kisfaludy’s home, bars and restaurants, with
Szigliget also has a pleasantly and today is also a wine cellar terraces overlooking the lake.
quiet grass beach and an offering tastings. There are An early 19th-century
attractive harbour, always great views from its terrace. watermill in the middle of
cheerful with its show of Passing Rose Rock, where the the mill pond is now the Hotel
colourful sailing boats. couple met, the trail continues Gabriella. What most visitors
to the top, from where longer, really come to Tapolca for,
p Badacsony more strenuous hikes depart how ever, is the Cave Lake
Mountain for two other hills, Gulács-hegy (Tavas-barlang), a short walk from
the town centre. The lake lies
and Szent György-hegy.
30 km (19 miles) east of Keszthely. 18 m (59 ft) below the surface.
Road Map B4. * 2,400. £ from It was dis covered by accident
Tapolca. @ from Tapolca. 4 from a Tapolca when a well was being sunk
Keszthely, Fonyód. n Tourinform, 26 km (16 miles) northeast of Kesz thely. in 1902, and is reached via
Park utca 14, Badacsony, (87) 43 10 46. Road Map B4. * 18,000. £ from a steep staircase. Part of the
Budapest, Keszthely. @ from Budapest. 300-m (328-yard) cave system
Beginning at the railway station n Tourinform, Fő tér 17, (87) 51 07 77. can be seen from dry land,
in lovely Badacsony village is though much more can be
a well-marked and fairly gentle Encircled by 14 cone-shaped explored in a rented boat.
trail, sign posted in yellow, hills of basalt rock, Tapolca has
which winds its way up to one of the most specta cular T Tapolca Cave Lake
the Kisfaludy Look out Tower settings of any town on Lake Kisfaludy utca 3. Tel (87) 41 25 79.
at the top of Badacsony Balaton. Equally pictur esque is Open Jul & Aug: 9am–8pm daily;
Moun tain (437 m/1,434 ft). the thermal pond in the centre Sep–Jun: 10am–4:30pm daily. &
An extinct volcano, this offers of the town, encircled by little ∑ tavasbarlang.hu
the best hiking in the Balaton
area, with spectacular views
from the top across the lake.
On the way up, almost
hidden among the vineyards
that cover the volcanic soil, are
two superb former wine-press
houses. The first, 3 km (2 miles)
from Badacsony, is the Róza
Szegedy House, named after
the wife of the 18th-century
poet Sándor Kisfaludy. The
couple met on the mountain
and the house contains a small
display dedi cated to Kisfaludy’s
poetry, as well as a wine cellar
where the locally produced Tapolca’s unique attraction, the mysterious Cave Lake




204-205_EW_Hungary.indd 205 18/09/17 3:40 pm

206  HUNGAR Y REGION B Y REGION SOUTHERN TR ANSD ANUBIA  207


site of an earlier church, which from the same starting point.
was consecrated in 1060 but The Hungaricum Festival held in
destroyed in 1702. Beneath summer features a huge folk art
lies King András I, laid to rest fair, folk dancing, sports events
here in 1055. Károly Lotz’s and evening concerts.
superb frescoes of Faith,
Hope and Charity adorn h Herend
the church’s ceiling.
The western half of Tihany 7 km (4 miles) northwest of Veszprém.
is closed to motor traffic and Road Map B4. * 3,400. @ from
accessible only on foot, along Veszprém. ∑ herend.com
a number of well-marked trails,
most of which begin just The small village of Herend is
outside Tihany village. The famous mainly for its porcelain
most intriguing route is manufactory, which has been
the Lajos Lóczy Nature Trail, producing some of the finest
which takes visitors past the A café near Lake Balaton in the elegant resort of Balatonfüred porcelain in the world since 1826.
hermit caves overlooking The structure itself is a master­
Kinizsi Castle in Nagyvázsony, once a military fortress Tihany village, and the f Balatonfüred g Balatonalmádi piece, and a listed building. A late
s Nagyvázsony d Tihany Peninsula peninsula’s two inland lakes: 23 km (14 miles) southeast of Vesz­ 13 km (8 miles) south of Veszprém. Classi cist edifice built in 1840, it
has an amazing entrance, topped
Belső-tó (Inner Lake) and
prém. Road Map B4. * 13,000.
Road Map B4. * 8,000. £ from
26 km (16 miles) southwest of 15 km (9 miles) south of Veszprém. Külső-tó (Outer Lake). Belső-tó £ from Budapest. @ from Buda pest. Budapest. @ from Buda pest. with an egg­shaped dome
Veszprém. Road Map B4. * 1,750. Road Map B4. £ to Balatonfüred. is a volcanic crater and an angler’s 4 from Siófok. n Tourinform, Blaha n Tourinform, Városház tér 4, (88) guarded by two giant angels.
@ from Balatonfüred. @ from Balatonfüred to Tihany dream, while Külső-tó is a bird Lujza utca 5, (87) 58 04 80. _ Anna 59 40 80. _ Hungaricum Festival Porcelanium, the visitor centre
village. 4 car ferry from Szántód. sanctuary and nesting ground Ball (last Sat in Jul). (last week in Jul). of the manufactory, is a museum
Set in a valley between the Balaton n Tourinform, Kossuth Lajos utca for tens of thousands of birds. of porcelain as well as a brand
hills and Mount Kab, Nagyvázsony 20, Tihany, (87) 44 88 04. Tihany has good grass The site of the first medicinal The second­largest resort on shop. It has displays of the
boasts Kinizsi Castle, a well- beaches, although the most retreat on Lake Balaton, Balaton’s northern shore, decorative Herend china and
preserved fortress. It was given to Declared Hungary’s first popular, on the promenade Hungary’s first sailing club Balatonalmádi has welcomed porcelain, from dinner plates
local warrior Pál Kinizsi in 1472 conservation area in 1952, the at Tihany village, get very and one of its oldest bathers since the to intricately painted figurines.
by King Mátyás in recognition of Tihany Peninsula is an outcrop busy during high summer. balls, Balatonfüred 1870s. It has a fine There is also the opportunity
his outstanding military service. of volcanic rock extending The passenger port, Tihany-rév remains the grandest sandy beach, and to visit a workshop to watch the
Families will enjoy the games and for 5 km (3 miles) into Lake at the peninsula’s southern tip, resort on the lake. is an excellent base production process. Visitors can
entertainments of the period Balaton. The symbol of the is the prettiest on the lake. Though its streets for exploring the also try their hand at shaping and
staged daily in July and August. peninsula, and visible from afar, Car ferries cross from here have a faded air, the Balaton hinterland painting of porcelain objects.
From the top of the 29-m- is the Baroque Abbey Church, to Szántód on Lake Balaton’s villas, such as that and hills on foot. There are demon strations by
(95-ft-) high keep a superb built in the 18th century on the southern shore. of the romantic From the railway artists who meticulously hand­
panorama of the surrounding novelist Mór Jókai station, a 6­km paint every detail. A vast factory
countryside unfolds. In the dun- (1825–1904), still (4­mile) path shop sells some 12,000 porcelain
geons is the Pál Kinizsi Castle convey ele gance; (marked with blue items made here and painted in
Museum (Kinizsi Pál Vármúzeum), Jókai’s home is today A sailing boat on crosses) leads up about 350 different patterns.
with a small wax work display of a museum dedi cated Lake Balaton to the Wesselényi
medieval torture. Pál Kinizsi’s to his works. Primarily Viewing Tower at E Porcelanium
sarco phagus lies in the chapel. a health spa, patients flock the top of Öreg­hegy (132 m/ Kossuth Lajos utca 140. Tel (88) 52 31
Opposite the castle stands to the town’s hospital to drink 433 ft). A much tougher walk 97. Open Apr–Oct: 9am–6pm daily;
St István Church, built for Kinizsi its mineral­laced water. The leads to the top of Felső­hegy Nov–Mar: 9:30am–5pm daily (Nov–
in 1470 but rebuilt in Baroque “miracle” water is available to (321 m/1,053 ft) Dec: Tues–Sat). & 8 7
style in 1740. The Open-Air all from the colonnaded
Ethnography Museum drinking fountain in Gyógy tér.
(Szabadtéri Néprajzi Múzeum) Gyógy tér is also where
with two cottages (a copper- the grand annual Anna Ball
smith’s and a weaver’s) remain is held at the Árkád Hotel in
as they were in the mid-1840s. July. The first ball in 1825
was a showcase event for
E Pál Kinizsi Castle Museum the grand daughter of a local
Vár utca 9. Tel (88) 26 40 11. Open Mar, businessman. Traditionally,
Apr & Oct: 10am–5pm; May, Sep: 9am– the debutantes all wear
6pm, Jun–Aug: 9am–7pm, Nov–Feb: exactly the same gown, and
10am–4pm. & the high point is the election
E Open-Air Ethnography of the belle of the ball.
Museum Two great sandy beaches
Bercsényi utca 21. Tel (88) 26 47 24. flank Balaton füred’s landing
Open May–Sep: 10am–6pm Tue–Sun. stage, from where the Lake
& 7 The High Altar in Tihany’s ornate Baroque Abbey Church Balaton ferry departs. The astonishing entrance of the Porcelanium
For hotels and restaurants see pp264–269 and pp276–285


206-207_EW_Hungary.indd 206 18/09/17 3:40 pm 206-207_EW_Hungary.indd 207 14/11/2017 16:48

SOUTHERN TR ANSD ANUBIA  207


from the same starting point.
The Hungaricum Festival held in
summer features a huge folk art
fair, folk dancing, sports events
and evening concerts.
h Herend
7 km (4 miles) northwest of Veszprém.
Road Map B4. * 3,400. @ from
Veszprém. ∑ herend.com
The small village of Herend is
famous mainly for its porcelain
manufactory, which has been
producing some of the finest
A café near Lake Balaton in the elegant resort of Balatonfüred porcelain in the world since 1826.
The structure itself is a master­
f Balatonfüred g Balatonalmádi piece, and a listed building. A late
Classi cist edifice built in 1840, it
23 km (14 miles) southeast of Vesz­ 13 km (8 miles) south of Veszprém.
prém. Road Map B4. * 13,000. Road Map B4. * 8,000. £ from has an amazing entrance, topped
£ from Budapest. @ from Buda pest. Budapest. @ from Buda pest. with an egg­shaped dome
4 from Siófok. n Tourinform, Blaha n Tourinform, Városház tér 4, (88) guarded by two giant angels.
Lujza utca 5, (87) 58 04 80. _ Anna 59 40 80. _ Hungaricum Festival Porcelanium, the visitor centre
Ball (last Sat in Jul). (last week in Jul). of the manufactory, is a museum
of porcelain as well as a brand
The site of the first medicinal The second­largest resort on shop. It has displays of the
retreat on Lake Balaton, Balaton’s northern shore, decorative Herend china and
Hungary’s first sailing club Balatonalmádi has welcomed porcelain, from dinner plates
and one of its oldest bathers since the to intricately painted figurines.
balls, Balatonfüred 1870s. It has a fine There is also the opportunity
remains the grandest sandy beach, and to visit a workshop to watch the
resort on the lake. is an excellent base production process. Visitors can
Though its streets for exploring the also try their hand at shaping and
have a faded air, the Balaton hinterland painting of porcelain objects.
villas, such as that and hills on foot. There are demon strations by
of the romantic From the railway artists who meticulously hand­
novelist Mór Jókai station, a 6­km paint every detail. A vast factory
(1825–1904), still (4­mile) path shop sells some 12,000 porcelain
convey ele gance; (marked with blue items made here and painted in
Jókai’s home is today A sailing boat on crosses) leads up about 350 different patterns.
a museum dedi cated Lake Balaton to the Wesselényi
to his works. Primarily Viewing Tower at E Porcelanium
a health spa, patients flock the top of Öreg­hegy (132 m/ Kossuth Lajos utca 140. Tel (88) 52 31
to the town’s hospital to drink 433 ft). A much tougher walk 97. Open Apr–Oct: 9am–6pm daily;
its mineral­laced water. The leads to the top of Felső­hegy Nov–Mar: 9:30am–5pm daily (Nov–
“miracle” water is available to (321 m/1,053 ft) Dec: Tues–Sat). & 8 7
all from the colonnaded
drinking fountain in Gyógy tér.
Gyógy tér is also where
the grand annual Anna Ball
is held at the Árkád Hotel in
July. The first ball in 1825
was a showcase event for
the grand daughter of a local
businessman. Traditionally,
the debutantes all wear
exactly the same gown, and
the high point is the election
of the belle of the ball.
Two great sandy beaches
flank Balaton füred’s landing
stage, from where the Lake
Balaton ferry departs. The astonishing entrance of the Porcelanium




206-207_EW_Hungary.indd 207 14/11/2017 16:48

208  HUNGAR Y REGION B Y REGION VESZPRÉM  209

j Veszprém former market square, it is E Laczkó Dezső VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
surrounded by some fine little Museum
The site of the nation’s first bishopric, and for centuries the houses, many of which are Laczkó Dezső Múzeum Practical Information
seat of the Queen of Hungary’s household, Veszprém is one today cafés. The Pósa House Erzsébet sétány 1. Tel (88) 78 81 91. 44 km (27 miles) southwest of
of Hungary’s great historical towns. It was all but razed by the at No. 3 was built for a local Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun. & 8 Székesfehérvár. Road Map B4.
* 60,000. n Tourinform,
Turks as they fled Hungary in the 17th century. Spread over merchant, Endre Pósa, in 1783. The County Museum, designed Óváros tér 2, (88) 40 45 48.
Its showy decoration, espe cially
by the local architect István
five hills, the most picturesque part of the city is the Vár the two cherubs below the roof, Medgyaszay, was opened ∑ veszpreminfo.hu _ Gizella
(Castle District, see pp210–11), but the lower city offers some was to offset the linearity of in 1922. Its collection consists Art Days (May), VeszprémFest
fine Baroque architecture, great museums and quaint streets. the building. The contours of local artifacts, including (Jul); Street Music Festival (Jul).
The twin towers of St Michael’s Cathedral, visible from afar, are of the Secession-era house folk costumes dating back Transport
£ Jutasi út; from Budapest,
a symbol of Veszprém and of the Balaton and Bakony regions. next door are gentler. Opposite to Celtic times. Most of the Székesfehérvár. @ Piac tér; from
collection was donated
is the Neo-Classical town hall,
Visitors need to be fit to explore this city, as many sights are at built in 1896 as church offices, by local Piarist monks, for Budapest, Székesfehérvár.
the top of long staircases or at the end of steep, cobbled streets. but renovated and converted whose leader, Laczkó Dezső, Panoramic shot of the historical town of
in 1990. Behind the town hall, the museum was named. It Veszprém, during summer
P Archbishop’s Palace up a flight of stairs, is Lenke also housed Hungary’s first O Veszprém Zoo
Érseki Palota Kiss’s fountain Girl with a Jug, public library, still a leading P St István Viaduct Veszprémi Állatkert
Vár utca 16. Tel (88) 42 60 95. which is affectionately known research facility. Szent István völgyhíd Kittenberger Kálmán utca 15–17.
Open May–Oct: 10am–6pm daily. as “Zsuzsi” by locals. Stretching over the Tel (88) 56 61 40. Open May–Sep:
& 7 E Bakony Regional Folk Fejes Valley, from 9am–6pm daily; Oct–Apr: from 9am
This Baroque mansion (1764) House Dózsa György utca daily, closing times vary with season.
was designed by Fellner and Bakonyi Ház to the St László & 8 7 ∑ veszpzoo.hu
has his trademark rounded Erzsébet sétány 3. Tel (88) 56 43 10. Church, the St István Hungary’s best zoo, named
four-columned loggia. It houses Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun. Viaduct was built in after Africa explorer
the Arch bishop’s archive and & 8 1938, a major engineering Kálmán Kittenberger
only a few rooms are open to Hungary’s first ethnographic achieve ment at the (1881–1958), is spread
the public, with a fine collection museum, the Bakony House time. Designed by a over 130,000 sq m
of Baroque furniture and (1935) was modelled on the Hungarian, Róbert (155,500 sq yards) in the
The restored, grand interior of frescoes by Johann Cymbal. 19th-century houses of Öcs, Folly, it rises 50 m lovely Fejes Valley. It is
St Michael’s Cathedral south of Veszprém. The house (164 ft) above the River A giraffe in home to 120 species,
P Heroes’ Gate is built on high foundations Séd at its highest point. Veszprém Zoo includ ing Sumatran
R St Michael’s Cathedral Hősök kapuja A late Secession-era stained-glass window and has a full-length covered It affords magnificent tigers and Kamchatka
Szent Mihály Bazilika Vár utca 2. Tel (88) 61 05 16. in the Petőfi Theatre terrace. A small staircase leads views of the castle, the bears, giraffes and elephants,
Főszékesegyház Open 10am–5pm daily. & 7 to a single door. Inside, items Betekints Valley and the Bakony seals, penguins and fine
Vár utca 20. Tel (88) 32 80 38. This restored city gate, F Petőfi Theatre on show date back to 1700. Mountains to the north. exotic birds.
Open May–Oct: 10am–6pm (enter which was built in 1938 to Petőfi Szinház
via side door). Closed Nov–Feb. commemorate the Hungarian Óvári Ferenc utca 2. Tel (88) 56 42 20.
There was a church here as early dead of World War I, houses a Open during performances only. 7 Veszprém City Centre Benedek
as 1001, when St István created small exhibition on the history The late Secession-era (1908) 1 St Michael’s Cathedral PATAK Hill Ú R K ÚT UT C A 0 metres 200
TÉR
a bishopric, but the cathedral’s of the city and its original municipal theatre, set in well- 2 Gizella Chapel St George's 0 yards 200
Chapel
present look is early 20th fortifications. The gate’s tower kept gardens, is named after 3 Archbishop’s Palace St Michael’s Cathedral
century. Remains of earlier styles affords fine views of the city revolutionary playwright and Gizella Gizella Chapel
include the Gothic under croft from the top. poet Sándor Petőfi (see p46). 4 Heroes’ Gate Museum Archbishop's Séd
Palace
(under ground store) and the The theatre was designed by 5 Óváros tér and Town Hall St István Piarist
crypt’s vaulting, both from 1380. P Óváros tér and Town Hall István Medgyaszay, who studied 6 Petőfi Theatre Viaduct Church D E Á K F E R E N C U T C A FENYVES U. Train Station
Follow ing sensitive restoration Városháza in Vienna under Otto Wagner. 7 Laczkó Dezső Museum Veszprém VÁR UTCA
Zoo
of many older features, the Óváros tér. It has intricate folk motifs on 8 Bakony Regional Heroes' VÖGYI K Ú T U T CA 2 km (1.25 miles)
Bus Station
cathedral has returned to its Óváros tér sits directly below the façade, typical of later Folk House Gate TH Ö LÖ K Y U T CA
former glory, crowned by two the Castle District. Veszprém’s Secessionist buildings. 9 St István Viaduct JÓ KA I MÓR U T C A Town Hall B U HIM UC TA CSAPL A R JÁNDS UTCA Covered
Market
Firetower
tall towers dating from 1723. 0 Veszprém Zoo Pósa
House ÓVÁROS
TÉR
R Gizella Chapel RANOLDER V AS UTCA RÁKÓCZI U. J U TA SI Ú T
JÁNOS
F ESTO UTCA
Gizella Kápolna TÉR
Vár utca 16. Tel (88) 42 60 95. BEM UT C A VIRÁG UTCA KOSSUTH LAJOS UTCA
HORGOS UTCA
Open May–Oct: 10am–6pm daily. & BUDAPEST
7 ^ T OB OR Z Ó U TC A SZABADSÁG
TÉR
The 13th-century Gothic Chapel Key D Ó Z S A G Y Ö R GY ÚT
commemorates the life of Gizella, Ó VÁ RI FEREN C ÚT County B U DA PEST Ú T
wife of István and first Queen of Street-by-Street pp210–11 Theatre Hall
Petőfi
BRUS ZNYAI U T CA
Hungary. The chapel was lost and MEGYEHÁZ KORKÁZ U C TA
TÉR
rediscovered only in the 1760s. Its I SKOLA UTCA New Laczkó Dezső
Library
faded Byzan tine frescoes of the ERZSÉBET Museum MÁRTÍROK UTCA
apostles on the walls are original. Façade of the Neo-Classical town hall, built in 1896 TÉR
Bakony Regional
For hotels and restaurants see pp264–269 and pp276–285 For keys to map symbols see back flap Folk House
208-209_EW_Hungary.indd 208 18/09/17 3:37 pm 208-209_EW_Hungary.indd 209 18/09/17 3:37 pm

VESZPRÉM  209


E Laczkó Dezső VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Museum
Laczkó Dezső Múzeum Practical Information
Erzsébet sétány 1. Tel (88) 78 81 91. 44 km (27 miles) southwest of
Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun. & 8 Székesfehérvár. Road Map B4.
The County Museum, designed * 60,000. n Tourinform,
by the local architect István Óváros tér 2, (88) 40 45 48.
Medgyaszay, was opened ∑ veszpreminfo.hu _ Gizella
in 1922. Its collection consists Art Days (May), VeszprémFest
of local artifacts, including (Jul); Street Music Festival (Jul).
folk costumes dating back Transport
to Celtic times. Most of the £ Jutasi út; from Budapest,
collection was donated Székesfehérvár. @ Piac tér; from
by local Piarist monks, for Budapest, Székesfehérvár.
whose leader, Laczkó Dezső, Panoramic shot of the historical town of
the museum was named. It Veszprém, during summer
also housed Hungary’s first O Veszprém Zoo
public library, still a leading P St István Viaduct Veszprémi Állatkert
research facility. Szent István völgyhíd Kittenberger Kálmán utca 15–17.
Stretching over the Tel (88) 56 61 40. Open May–Sep:
E Bakony Regional Folk Fejes Valley, from 9am–6pm daily; Oct–Apr: from 9am
House Dózsa György utca daily, closing times vary with season.
Bakonyi Ház to the St László & 8 7 ∑ veszpzoo.hu
Erzsébet sétány 3. Tel (88) 56 43 10. Church, the St István Hungary’s best zoo, named
Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun. Viaduct was built in after Africa explorer
& 8 1938, a major engineering Kálmán Kittenberger
Hungary’s first ethnographic achieve ment at the (1881–1958), is spread
museum, the Bakony House time. Designed by a over 130,000 sq m
(1935) was modelled on the Hungarian, Róbert (155,500 sq yards) in the
19th-century houses of Öcs, Folly, it rises 50 m lovely Fejes Valley. It is
south of Veszprém. The house (164 ft) above the River A giraffe in home to 120 species,
is built on high foundations Séd at its highest point. Veszprém Zoo includ ing Sumatran
and has a full-length covered It affords magnificent tigers and Kamchatka
terrace. A small staircase leads views of the castle, the bears, giraffes and elephants,
to a single door. Inside, items Betekints Valley and the Bakony seals, penguins and fine
on show date back to 1700. Mountains to the north. exotic birds.

Veszprém City Centre Benedek
PATAK Hill 0 metres 200
1 St Michael’s Cathedral TÉR St George's
Ú R K ÚT UT C A
2 Gizella Chapel Chapel 0 yards 200
3 Archbishop’s Palace St Michael’s Cathedral
Gizella Chapel
Gizella
4 Heroes’ Gate Museum Archbishop's Séd
5 Óváros tér and Town Hall Palace
6 Petőfi Theatre St István Piarist D E Á K F E R E N C U T C A FENYVES U.
Church
Viaduct
7 Laczkó Dezső Museum Veszprém VÁR UTCA Train Station
Zoo
8 Bakony Regional Heroes' VÖGYI K Ú T U T CA 2 km (1.25 miles)
Bus Station
Folk House Gate TH Ö LÖ K Y U T CA
9 St István Viaduct JÓ KA I MÓR U T C A Town Hall B U HIM UC TA CSAPL A R JÁNDS UTCA Covered
Market
0 Veszprém Zoo Firetower
Pósa
House ÓVÁROS
TÉR
RANOLDER V AS UTCA
JÁNOS RÁKÓCZI U. J U TA SI Ú T
F ESTO UTCA
TÉR
BEM UT C A VIRÁG UTCA KOSSUTH LAJOS UTCA BUDAPEST
HORGOS UTCA
T OB OR Z Ó U TC A SZABADSÁG
TÉR
Key D Ó Z S A G Y Ö R GY ÚT Ó VÁ RI FEREN C ÚT County B U DA PES T Ú T
Street-by-Street pp210–11 Petőfi Hall
BRUS ZNYAI U T CA
Theatre MEGYEHÁZ KORKÁZ U C TA
TÉR
New
Library Laczkó Dezső MÁRTÍROK UTCA
Museum
ERZSÉBET
I SKOLA UTCA
TÉR
Bakony Regional
For keys to map symbols see back flap Folk House
208-209_EW_Hungary.indd 209 18/09/17 3:37 pm

210  HUNGAR Y REGION B Y REGION VESZPRÉM  211

Street-by-Street: Veszprém Vár . Archbishop’s Palace
Veszprém’s finest building is an
With the exception of Buda, Veszprém contains Hungary’s Gizella Chapel outstanding example of Baroque
best-preserved and most accessible Castle District Lost for hundreds of years, the design, the work of Jakab Fellner,
who also designed the dormitory
13th-century Gizella Chapel
(Vár). Built on an outcrop of dolomite rock, it was rediscovered in the 1760s for ecclesiastical staff next door.
consists basically of one street, which is during con struction of the Seven of the mansion’s rooms,
narrow in parts and delightful with Arch bi shop’s Palace. including the frescoed dining
its mixture of medieval and room, are open to the public.
Baroque archi tecture.
From here, the views over P AT A K
the modern city from the TÉR
Szent István and Gizella
Monument are
stunning, and St Emeric Piarist and
Garrison Church
make the walk On the walls of this early
up worth while. 19th-century church are
engraved the letters
MMT: a Greek
acronym for Mary,
Mother of God.
Szent István and Gizella
Monument
Huge statues featuring Hungary’s
greatest king and his wife were
raised in 1936, on the 900th
anniversary of István’s death.

Fire Lookout Tower
. St Michael’s V Á R U T C Open from March to
Cathedral October, the views of
V Á R U T C A A
Standing on the site modern Veszprém from
of an 11th-century Key the top of this elegant,
church founded Baroque 48-m- (157-ft-)
by King István, Suggested route high tower are superb.
St Michael’s
Cathedral was
extensively rebuilt
in Neo-Romanesque Dubniczay House
style in 1908. Built in 1751, the
Dubniczay House
incorporates part of
the old castle wall.
Salesianum – Archbishopric’s
Tourist Centre
Set in the Biró-Giczey House, this
centre offers a cultural experience
with various educational and
recreational activities.

Holy Trinity Statue
Commissioned by the then
Bishop of Veszprém,
Márton Padányi-Bíró,
this statue was raised in . Heroes’ Gate
1750. The Bishop also Veszprém’s history, and the history Route down to Óváros tér
commissioned the of the gate itself, is explored in an 0 metres 30 Visitors should note that the
Bíró-Giczey House exhibition within the restored castle 0 yards 30 Vár remains open to motor
opposite. gate and tower. traffic, and beware of cars.
For hotels and restaurants see pp264–269 and pp276–285


210-211_EW_Hungary.indd 210 18/09/17 3:37 pm 210-211_EW_Hungary.indd 211 18/09/17 3:37 pm

VESZPRÉM  211


. Archbishop’s Palace
Veszprém’s finest building is an
outstanding example of Baroque
design, the work of Jakab Fellner,
who also designed the dormitory
for ecclesiastical staff next door.
Seven of the mansion’s rooms,
including the frescoed dining
room, are open to the public.






St Emeric Piarist and
Garrison Church
On the walls of this early
19th-century church are
engraved the letters
MMT: a Greek
acronym for Mary,
Mother of God.








Fire Lookout Tower
Open from March to
V Á R U T C A
October, the views of
modern Veszprém from
the top of this elegant,
Baroque 48-m- (157-ft-)
high tower are superb.





















. Heroes’ Gate
Veszprém’s history, and the history Route down to Óváros tér
of the gate itself, is explored in an 0 metres 30 Visitors should note that the
exhibition within the restored castle 0 yards 30 Vár remains open to motor
gate and tower. traffic, and beware of cars.




210-211_EW_Hungary.indd 211 18/09/17 3:37 pm

HUNGAR Y REGION B Y REGION  213

THE NORTHERN

HIGHLANDS


Among the gems hidden in the mountains and
forests of the Northern Highlands are grand palaces
and castles, mysterious caves and grottoes, healing baths
and thermal springs. The Hungarian uplands are remote, lying beyond mountain
passes and deep forests, and their plantlife and wildlife are well protected in the
national parks. This region also produces Hungary’s best wine – Tokaji.


From Hollókő in the west to the Zemplén most spectacular of all Hungary’s
Hills on Hungary’s eastern border with thermal baths. Nature-lovers will head
Ukraine, the Northern Highlands feel for the Bükk National Park, where over
remote and other-worldly. Home to a 22,000 species of animal and plant live
number of peoples who are not of in a protected environment.
Magyar descent (the Palóc of Hollókő, for Tokaji is Hungary’s finest wine: the
example), this is the least homogenous golden wine of Aszú is made in the far east
region of the country. Yet the people of of the country, a place where Calvinism,
the mountains are proudly Hungarian, not Catholicism, is the predominant
and proud that at Eger Castle the most religion. Many of the towns and villages
heroic rearguard action in the nation’s east of the Tokaj hills are remote – to
history was fought and won – and the journey to gorgeous Baroque towns such
myth of Bull’s Blood born. as Sárospatak and Sátoraljaújhely really
The region has much for sports is to step off the beaten track.
enthusiasts: skiing, hiking, caving and This area is not short of good places to
horse riding are pursued in the resorts of stay, however. Converted palaces such as
the Mátra Mountains. Bathers and those the Sasvár Kastély in Parád fürdő, or the
seeking hydrotherapy can take the waters Palota in Lillafüred, offer accommodation
at Parádfürdő or at Miskolctapolca, the fit for royals.























Pedestrianized Széchenyi Street, leading to the Bishop’s Palace and Lyceum, Eger
The castle at Hollókő, a UNESCO-recognized centre for the indigenous Palóc culture



Hun_212_213_Regional_Intro.indd 212 17/02/2015 12:48 Hun_212_213_Regional_Intro.indd 213 17/02/2015 12:48

HUNGAR Y REGION B Y REGION  213

THE NORTHERN

HIGHLANDS


Among the gems hidden in the mountains and
forests of the Northern Highlands are grand palaces
and castles, mysterious caves and grottoes, healing baths
and thermal springs. The Hungarian uplands are remote, lying beyond mountain
passes and deep forests, and their plantlife and wildlife are well protected in the
national parks. This region also produces Hungary’s best wine – Tokaji.


From Hollókő in the west to the Zemplén most spectacular of all Hungary’s
Hills on Hungary’s eastern border with thermal baths. Nature-lovers will head
Ukraine, the Northern Highlands feel for the Bükk National Park, where over
remote and other-worldly. Home to a 22,000 species of animal and plant live
number of peoples who are not of in a protected environment.
Magyar descent (the Palóc of Hollókő, for Tokaji is Hungary’s finest wine: the
example), this is the least homogenous golden wine of Aszú is made in the far east
region of the country. Yet the people of of the country, a place where Calvinism,
the mountains are proudly Hungarian, not Catholicism, is the predominant
and proud that at Eger Castle the most religion. Many of the towns and villages
heroic rearguard action in the nation’s east of the Tokaj hills are remote – to
history was fought and won – and the journey to gorgeous Baroque towns such
myth of Bull’s Blood born. as Sárospatak and Sátoraljaújhely really
The region has much for sports is to step off the beaten track.
enthusiasts: skiing, hiking, caving and This area is not short of good places to
horse riding are pursued in the resorts of stay, however. Converted palaces such as
the Mátra Mountains. Bathers and those the Sasvár Kastély in Parád fürdő, or the
seeking hydrotherapy can take the waters Palota in Lillafüred, offer accommodation
at Parádfürdő or at Miskolctapolca, the fit for royals.























Pedestrianized Széchenyi Street, leading to the Bishop’s Palace and Lyceum, Eger
The castle at Hollókő, a UNESCO-recognized centre for the indigenous Palóc culture



Hun_212_213_Regional_Intro.indd 213 17/02/2015 12:48

214  HUNGAR Y REGION B Y REGION THE NOR THERN HIGHLANDS  215

Exploring the Northern Highlands Getting Around
The region is reasonably well served by railway, although
While the Mátra and Bükk Mountains, boasting the geography may force visitors to travel back on them­
Hungary’s highest peaks, define the Northern selves in order to reach a new destination by train. There
Highlands, this is, in fact, the most geograph- are trains from Budapest to Gyöngyös, Eger and Miskolc,
with regional onward services from there. To get the
ically diverse region. Some of the country’s most out of a visit to the region, however, it is best to
most evocative sights are found here. Castles, hire a car. Roads are good and allow much quicker
such as the legendary fortress at Eger, bear access to some of the more remote sights.
witness to troubled times, while many thermal
baths have drawn bathers since imperial times.
This is also wine country, with Tokaj and Eger
the foremost towns of international acclaim, FüzérFüzér Bacchus, in the wine
and the home of the Palóc people, who fiercely AGGTELEKIAGGTELEKI town of Tokaj
guard their traditions. NATIONAL PARKNATIONAL PARK FüzérradványFüzérradvány
The traditional Palóc settlement of Hollókő, preserved SÁTORALJAÚJHELYSÁTORALJAÚJHELY
Z E M P LÉN HILLS
as a World Heritage Site
SzendrőSzendrő
RudabányaRudabánya Boldogkő-Boldogkő- Tisza Tisza
váraljaváralja Z E M P LÉN HILLS SÁROSPATAKSÁROSPATAK
PutnokPutnok EdelényEdelény
Hernád
Sajó
Sajó Hernád
Bodrog
KazincbarcikaKazincbarcika Bodrog
IPOLYTARNÓCIPOLYTARNÓC ÓzdÓzd SajószentpéterSajószentpéter MonokMonok
BORSOD- ABAÚJ-ZEMPLÉNBORSOD- ABAÚJ-ZEMPLÉN
Ipoly Ipoly SZERENCSSZERENCS TOKAJTOKAJ NyíregyházaNyíregyháza
SzécsénySzécsény SalgótarjánSalgótarján SZILVÁSVÁRADSZILVÁSVÁRAD MISKOLCMISKOLC
TiszalúcTiszalúc Tisza
Tisza
BALASSAGY-BALASSAGY- BátonyterenyeBátonyterenye BÜKKBÜKK MISKOLC-MISKOLC-
TAPOLCATAPOLCA
NagyorosziNagyoroszi ARMATARMAT HOLLÓKŐHOLLÓKŐ NATIONAL NATIONAL
PARKPARK
Zagyva
NÓGRÁDNÓGRÁD Zagyva PARÁDFÜRDŐPARÁDFÜRDŐ EmődEmőd TiszaújvárosTiszaújváros
RétságRétság PásztóPásztó PARÁDPARÁD EGEREGER
M ÁT R A M O U N TA I N S
BercelBercel M ÁT R A M O U N TA I N S 0 kilometres 20
BudapestBudapest HEVESHEVES MezőcsátMezőcsát DebrecenDebrecen 0 miles 20
MezőkövesdMezőkövesd
GYÖNGYÖSGYÖNGYÖS
FüzesabonyFüzesabony
LőrinciLőrinci
KálKál
HatvanHatvan
DebrecenDebrecen
BudapestBudapest Sights at a Glance
SzolnokSzolnok HevesHeves 1 Balassagyarmat
JászberényJászberény KömlőKömlő 2 Ipolytarnóc
3 Hollókő pp218–19
4 Gyöngyös
5 Mátra Mountains
6 Parád & Parádfürdő
7 Eger pp220–23
8 Bükk National Park pp224–5
Key 9 Szilvásvárad
Motorway 0 Aggteleki National Park
q Miskolc pp230–31
Secondary road
w Miskolctapolca
Minor road
e Szerencs
Main railway
r Tokaj
Minor railway t Zemplén Hills
International border y Sárospatak
Eger, with Cannon Hill and the famous castle in the background Regional border Vineyard in Felsőtárkány, between Eger and the Bükk National Park u Sátoraljaújhely
For hotels and restaurants see pp264–269 and pp276–285 For keys to map symbols see back flap
Hun_214-215_Expl.indd 214 17/02/2015 12:48 Hun_214-215_Expl.indd 215 17/02/2015 12:48

THE NOR THERN HIGHLANDS  215

Getting Around
The region is reasonably well served by railway, although
the geography may force visitors to travel back on them­
selves in order to reach a new destination by train. There
are trains from Budapest to Gyöngyös, Eger and Miskolc,
with regional onward services from there. To get the
most out of a visit to the region, however, it is best to
hire a car. Roads are good and allow much quicker
access to some of the more remote sights.




Füzér Bacchus, in the wine
AGGTELEKI town of Tokaj
NATIONAL PARK Füzérradvány

Szendrő SÁTORALJAÚJHELY
Rudabánya Boldogkő- Tisza
váralja Z E M P LÉN HILLS SÁROSPATAK
Putnok Edelény
Sajó Hernád
Kazincbarcika Bodrog
IPOLYTARNÓC Ózd Sajószentpéter Monok
BORSOD- ABAÚJ-ZEMPLÉN
Ipoly SZERENCS TOKAJ Nyíregyháza
Szécsény Salgótarján SZILVÁSVÁRAD MISKOLC
Tiszalúc Tisza
BALASSAGY- Bátonyterenye BÜKK MISKOLC-
TAPOLCA
Nagyoroszi ARMAT HOLLÓKŐ NATIONAL
PARK
NÓGRÁD Zagyva PARÁDFÜRDŐ Emőd Tiszaújváros
Rétság Pásztó PARÁD EGER
Bercel M ÁT R A M O U N TA I N S 0 kilometres 20
Budapest HEVES Mezőcsát Debrecen 0 miles 20
Mezőkövesd
GYÖNGYÖS
Füzesabony
Lőrinci
Kál
Hatvan
Debrecen
Budapest Sights at a Glance
Szolnok Heves 1 Balassagyarmat
Jászberény Kömlő 2 Ipolytarnóc
3 Hollókő pp218–19
4 Gyöngyös
5 Mátra Mountains
6 Parád & Parádfürdő
7 Eger pp220–23
8 Bükk National Park pp224–5
9 Szilvásvárad
0 Aggteleki National Park
q Miskolc pp230–31
w Miskolctapolca
e Szerencs
r Tokaj
t Zemplén Hills
y Sárospatak
Vineyard in Felsőtárkány, between Eger and the Bükk National Park u Sátoraljaújhely
For keys to map symbols see back flap


Hun_214-215_Expl.indd 215 17/02/2015 12:48

216  HUNGAR Y REGION B Y REGION THE NOR THERN HIGHLANDS  217


In the visitors’ centre, the teeth note that all contain at least 6 Parád and
of 24 species of sharks, croc- one relatively difficult section. Parádfürdő
odiles and dolphins, fossilized Mátrafüred is also great for
trees, the imprints of more than mountain biking, and many 30 km (19 miles) north of Gyöngyös.
5,000 subtropical exotic leaves pensions hire out good­quality Road Map E3. * 2,400. £ from
and the foot prints of 2,000 bikes. Non­hikers can pass the Budapest. @ from Budapest.
animals can be admired. A time at the Palóc Ethno graph­
4D cinema and adventure ical Museum (Palóc Néprajzi The waters at Parádfürdő
park make the visit even more Magángyűjtemény és Baba­ have been taken as a cure for
enjoyable for families. kiállítás), where a large and digestive disorders and bathed
colourful collection of dolls in as a cure for gynae cological
Y Ipolytarnóc Fossils Nature shows the traditional costumes ailments since the 17th century.
Protected Area of the Palóc people. The real treasure of the twin
Ipolytarnóc külterület. Tel (32) 45 41 About 8 km (5 miles) further villages, however, is the so
13. Open Mar–Oct: 9am–4pm Tue– Interior of St Bertalan Parish Church into the mountains is the smaller called Fancy Stable (Cifra Istálló).
Sun.& 8 in Gyöngyös resort of Mátra háza, with more Commissioned by Count György
hiking trails, and Károlyi it was designed
3 Hollókő the former Orczy Mansion, close slightly further north is by Miklós Ybl (who
The Palóc Museum in Balassagyarmat, keeping up folk traditions to the narrow­gauge railway Mátraszentistván, also designed the
See pp218–19. station. The late 18th­ century Hungary’s leading ski State Opera House in
1 Balassagyarmat 2 Ipolytarnóc mansion is a mixture of Neo­ resort and also a base Buda pest (see pp93-3).
Baroque and Neo­Classical styles. for summer hiking. Completed in 1880,
80 km (50 miles) north of Budapest. 43 km (27 miles) northeast of 4 Gyöngyös
Road Map D2. * 18,000. Balas sa gyarmat. Road Map D2. Heves county is known for its Kékestető, at much of the stable’s
£ from Vác. @ from Budapest. * 550. £ from Szécsény, 77 km (48 miles) east of Budapest. sports, and the Mátra Museum’s 1,015 m (3,330 ft) elaborate decoration
n Tourinform, Köztársaság tér 6, Balassagyarmat. @ from Szécsény. Road Map D3. * 33,000. £ from best exhibition is devoted to the highest peak in is of red marble. Few
(35) 50 06 40. Vámosgyörk. @ from Budapest, Eger. hunting, complete with various Hungary, lies east horses have finer
Around 22 million years ago, n Fő tér 10, (37) 51 03 10. ( daily trophies. In the beautiful park of Mátraháza. It is homes, and the
Capital of the Palóc region, a volcanic eruption buried the (until noon), Köztársaság tér. around the mansion, there is a served by bus or Footpath marker in the famous Lipizzaner
Balassagyarmat stands on the area around what is today three­storey pavilion with takes 45 minutes to Mátra Mountains horses are still bred
southern bank of the Ipoly the village of Ipolytarnóc in hot At the foot of the Mátra hills, exhibitions on natural history. hike up. The moun tain here. The rest of the
river, which marks the border ash. Hundreds of animals were Gyöngyös is the home of some The pride of the collection is is topped by a 90­m­ (295­ft­) building is the Parád Coach
between Hungary and Slovakia. caught at their drinking place of Hungary’s best white wines. a 40,000–50,000­year­old high TV tower, which offers Museum (Parádi Kocsi­
The origin of the Palóc people, and their fossilized remains Visitors can sample many of mammoth skeleton found spectacular views from the múzeum), which has a wide
famous for retaining their own can be seen today as part of a these at the Mátra House nearby. The Palm House is also viewing platform at the top. selection of elaborate horse­
cultural traditions, remains Geological Study Path that is of Wines, a shop and cellar that home to living animals, reptiles, For more relaxing pursuits, drawn coaches, some of
something of a mystery. The unique in Europe. It departs stocks over 200 local vintages. fishes and birds. there is good fishing at the which were once used by
nearby village of Hollókő from the visitors’ centre of the It is located on Fő tér, Gyöngyös’s picturesque Lake Sástó, which, the Hungarian royal family.
(see pp218–19) is the best- Ipolytarnóc Fossils Nature elegant pedestrianized central E St Bertalan Treasury Museum at an altitude of 500 m (1,640 ft), There are also interesting
known and best-kept Palóc Protected Area (Ipolytarnóci square. The centrepiece of Szent Bertalan utca 3. Tel (37) 30 00 is one of the highest in Hungary. dis plays on carriage building,
settle ment in Hungary. Ősmarad ványok Természet- the square, however, is the yellow 72. Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sat; Sun by It is found between Mátra füred tradi tional Palóc music, dance,
The townsfolk of Balassa- védelmi Terület) on the village’s Baroque St Bertalan Parish appointment only. & and Mátraháza. folk costumes and tools.
gyarmat no longer wear Palóc out skirts. Before setting off, Church, originally built in 1301, E Mátra Museum and
costume, but many examples of watch the short film telling then remodelled in the 18th Microarium E Palóc Ethnographical Museum E Parád Coach Museum
their colourful, elaborate dress the story of the eruption and century. The high-ceilinged – Kossuth Lajos utca 40. Tel (37) 50 55 Pálosvörösmarti utca 2, Mátrafüred. Kossuth Lajos utca 217. Tel (36) 36 40
are on display at the city’s Palóc explaining the natural history but plain – main hall is the 30. Open 9am–5pm Tue–Sun. & 7 Tel (30) 913 49 87. Open May–Oct: 83. Open Apr–Sep: 10am–5pm daily;
Museum (Palóc Múzeum). Here, of the area. A guide is needed largest surviving Gothic church 9am–5pm daily; Nov–Mar: 10am–3pm Oct–Mar: 10am–4pm Tue–Sun. &
visitors can also admire the rich for the Geological Study Tour, but building in Hungary. Opposite daily. & 8 Hungarian only. 7 8 7
artistic skills of the Palóc in the the Biology and Rock Park Tours the church is the House of the 5 Mátra Mountains
handi crafts on show. There are can be taken unaccompanied. Holy Crown, so called because 85 km (52 miles) northeast of
superb embroideries, intricate the Hungarian royal Budapest. Road Map D3/E3. £ from
woodcarvings and colourful crown was brought Mátrafüred. @ from Mátrafüred.
ceramics as well as a mock-up here for safe keeping n Tour inform Gyöngyös, Fő tér 10,
of a classroom and a wedding. early in the 19th (37) 51 03 10.
Unfortunately, there is less on century. Today,
display than there once was, the St Bertalan The most spectacular way
because as much as 90 per cent Treasury Museum to traverse the steep Mátra
of the collection was looted (Szent Bertalan Mountains is by narrow­gauge
by the German army during Templom Kincstára) railway from Gyöngyös to
World War II. accommodates a Mátrafüred, the largest village
large treasury of in the region. In summer,
E Palóc Museum ecclesiastical art. Mátra füred is pure heaven for
Palóc liget 1. Tel (35) 30 01 68. Gyöngyös’s other lovers of challenging moun tain
Open 9am–4pm Tue–Sat. star sight is the Mátra hikes. There are trails of various
8 7 Fossilized rhino footprints in Ipolytarnóc Museum, housed in lengths, all well marked, but A typical thatched Palóc cottage in the village of Parád
For hotels and restaurants see pp264–269 and pp276–285


216-217_EW_Hungary.indd 216 18/09/17 3:40 pm 216-217_EW_Hungary.indd 217 14/11/2017 16:49

THE NOR THERN HIGHLANDS  217


note that all contain at least 6 Parád and
one relatively difficult section. Parádfürdő
Mátrafüred is also great for
mountain biking, and many 30 km (19 miles) north of Gyöngyös.
pensions hire out good­quality Road Map E3. * 2,400. £ from
bikes. Non­hikers can pass the Budapest. @ from Budapest.
time at the Palóc Ethno graph­
ical Museum (Palóc Néprajzi The waters at Parádfürdő
Magángyűjtemény és Baba­ have been taken as a cure for
kiállítás), where a large and digestive disorders and bathed
colourful collection of dolls in as a cure for gynae cological
shows the traditional costumes ailments since the 17th century.
of the Palóc people. The real treasure of the twin
About 8 km (5 miles) further villages, however, is the so
Interior of St Bertalan Parish Church into the mountains is the smaller called Fancy Stable (Cifra Istálló).
in Gyöngyös resort of Mátra háza, with more Commissioned by Count György
hiking trails, and Károlyi it was designed
the former Orczy Mansion, close slightly further north is by Miklós Ybl (who
to the narrow­gauge railway Mátraszentistván, also designed the
station. The late 18th­ century Hungary’s leading ski State Opera House in
mansion is a mixture of Neo­ resort and also a base Buda pest (see pp93-3).
Baroque and Neo­Classical styles. for summer hiking. Completed in 1880,
Heves county is known for its Kékestető, at much of the stable’s
sports, and the Mátra Museum’s 1,015 m (3,330 ft) elaborate decoration
best exhibition is devoted to the highest peak in is of red marble. Few
hunting, complete with various Hungary, lies east horses have finer
trophies. In the beautiful park of Mátraháza. It is homes, and the
around the mansion, there is a served by bus or Footpath marker in the famous Lipizzaner
three­storey pavilion with takes 45 minutes to Mátra Mountains horses are still bred
exhibitions on natural history. hike up. The moun tain here. The rest of the
The pride of the collection is is topped by a 90­m­ (295­ft­) building is the Parád Coach
a 40,000–50,000­year­old high TV tower, which offers Museum (Parádi Kocsi­
mammoth skeleton found spectacular views from the múzeum), which has a wide
nearby. The Palm House is also viewing platform at the top. selection of elaborate horse­
home to living animals, reptiles, For more relaxing pursuits, drawn coaches, some of
fishes and birds. there is good fishing at the which were once used by
picturesque Lake Sástó, which, the Hungarian royal family.
E St Bertalan Treasury Museum at an altitude of 500 m (1,640 ft), There are also interesting
Szent Bertalan utca 3. Tel (37) 30 00 is one of the highest in Hungary. dis plays on carriage building,
72. Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sat; Sun by It is found between Mátra füred tradi tional Palóc music, dance,
appointment only. & and Mátraháza. folk costumes and tools.
E Mátra Museum and
Microarium E Palóc Ethnographical Museum E Parád Coach Museum
Kossuth Lajos utca 40. Tel (37) 50 55 Pálosvörösmarti utca 2, Mátrafüred. Kossuth Lajos utca 217. Tel (36) 36 40
30. Open 9am–5pm Tue–Sun. & 7 Tel (30) 913 49 87. Open May–Oct: 83. Open Apr–Sep: 10am–5pm daily;
9am–5pm daily; Nov–Mar: 10am–3pm Oct–Mar: 10am–4pm Tue–Sun. &
daily. & 8 Hungarian only. 7 8 7
5 Mátra Mountains
85 km (52 miles) northeast of
Budapest. Road Map D3/E3. £ from
Mátrafüred. @ from Mátrafüred.
n Tour inform Gyöngyös, Fő tér 10,
(37) 51 03 10.
The most spectacular way
to traverse the steep Mátra
Mountains is by narrow­gauge
railway from Gyöngyös to
Mátrafüred, the largest village
in the region. In summer,
Mátra füred is pure heaven for
lovers of challenging moun tain
hikes. There are trails of various
lengths, all well marked, but A typical thatched Palóc cottage in the village of Parád




216-217_EW_Hungary.indd 217 14/11/2017 16:49

218  HUNGAR Y REGION B Y REGION THE NOR THERN HIGHLANDS  219

3 Street-by-Street: Hollókő . The Village Church VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
This elegant whitewashed
Set in a narrow valley in the Cserhát hills, Hollókő is church with wooden belfry, Practical Information
built in 1889, is at the very
104 km (65 miles) northeast of
one of the few entire villages in the world to have centre of the village and is Budapest, 20 km (12 miles) south
been placed on UNESCO’s World Heritage List. The the focal point of Hollókő. of Szécsény. Road Map D2/3.
Palóc have lived here since the 13th century, when n Kossuth Lajos utca 68, (32) 57
90 10. Szécsény Potter’s House, Doll
the castle on Szárhegy was built. They use colourful Museum & Palóc Village Museum:
dialect and costume. Yet, in Hollókő all is not what Open daily; Apr–Oct: 10am–6pm;
it appears: the 58 houses, churches and work shops Nov–Mar: 10am–4pm. & 7
∑ holloko.hu
protected by UNESCO are little more than a century
old. Once entirely made of wood and thatch, the Transport
@ from Budapest.
village has burned down many times, and was
almost completely rebuilt in 1909 with brick walls . Palóc Village Museum
and tiled roofs. The vibrant costumes and lifestyles of
the Palóc people, with three generations
living under one roof, are vividly
represented at the museum. The Potter’s House
A showcase of simple but
elegant Palóc pottery, the
Potter’s House hosts pottery-
making demonstrations
and sells local wares.
Village House
This 19th-century wooden
house with a thatched
roof is one of the few to
have survived the many
fires that ravaged the
village over the centuries.







. Hollókő Castle Ruins of
A short walk from the the Castle
village centre are the
ruins of a 13th-century
fortress, destroyed
during the Turkish
retreat. It was partly
rebuilt in the 1990s.

Local Dress
The Palóc are Slovak in origin,
and their traditional dress, worn Main
by many of the village’s resi- entrance
dents, is distinctly Slavic, with
intricately embroidered motifs,
often of bright flowers. Married 0 metres 50
women wear head scarves; while,
unmarried girls don lace bonnets. Post Museum 0 yards 50
Palóc men wear black hats Doll Museum Two rooms in a small cottage
with embroidered ribbons. The These wonderfully detailed china display telegraph and
finest costumes can be seen on dolls are dressed in miniature communications equipment, Key
Sundays, when locals dress up versions of Palóc dress. The Doll as well as documents relating
for the morning church service. Hungarian women in traditional Suggested route
Palóc dress Museum has more than 200 dolls to the history of the postal
in its collection. service in Nógrád County.
For hotels and restaurants see pp264–269 and pp276–85 For keys to map symbols see back flap


218-219_EW_Hungary.indd 218 18/09/17 3:40 pm 218-219_EW_Hungary.indd 219 18/09/17 3:40 pm

THE NOR THERN HIGHLANDS  219


. The Village Church VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
This elegant whitewashed
church with wooden belfry, Practical Information
built in 1889, is at the very 104 km (65 miles) northeast of
centre of the village and is Budapest, 20 km (12 miles) south
the focal point of Hollókő. of Szécsény. Road Map D2/3.
n Kossuth Lajos utca 68, (32) 57
90 10. Szécsény Potter’s House, Doll
Museum & Palóc Village Museum:
Open daily; Apr–Oct: 10am–6pm;
Nov–Mar: 10am–4pm. & 7
∑ holloko.hu
Transport
@ from Budapest.




The Potter’s House
A showcase of simple but
elegant Palóc pottery, the
Potter’s House hosts pottery-
making demonstrations
and sells local wares.

Village House
This 19th-century wooden
house with a thatched
roof is one of the few to
have survived the many
fires that ravaged the
village over the centuries.



















Main
entrance

0 metres 50
0 yards 50
Post Museum
Two rooms in a small cottage
display telegraph and
communications equipment, Key
as well as documents relating Suggested route
to the history of the postal
service in Nógrád County.
For keys to map symbols see back flap


218-219_EW_Hungary.indd 219 18/09/17 3:40 pm

220  HUNGAR Y REGION B Y REGION EGER  221

7 Eger E Lyceum rounded, tiered façade and VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Líceum, Eszterházy Károly Főiskola twin towers are the work of
Situated off the main road, 90 minutes’ drive from Budapest Eszterházy Károly tér 1. Tel 32 52 11. Bohemian architect Johann Practical Information
to the east of Hungary, Eger is a charming town known today Open Library: Mar, Apr & Oct: 9:30am– Ignaz Dientzenhofer, who Road Map E3. * 56,000.
1:30pm Tue–Sun; May–Sep: 9:30am–
n Tourinform, Bajcsy-Zsilinszky
for its 1,000-year-old-history and diverse cultural heritage. 3:30pm Tue–Sun. Tower: Feb–mid-Mar completed the church in 1773. utca 9, (36) 51 77 15. ( Dobó
The town is famous for its thermal waters, baths and wines – & Nov–mid-Dec: 9:30am– 1pm Sat & Dedicated to St Anthony of István tér; daily.
Padova, scenes of the saint’s life
especially the iconic Cuvée wine, Bull’s Blood wine (see p223), Sun; mid–Mar–Oct: 9:30am–3pm Tue– feature in the ceiling frescoes Transport
which has a ruby red colour and an enticing aroma. During Sun (to 4:30pm May–Aug). & 8 7 painted by Márton Reindl. He is £ Vasút utca; from Budapest. @
the siege of 1552, the brave soldiers of the town protected The Lyceum was founded in 1765 also depicted alongside the Pyrker János tér; from Buda pest.
it from the invading Ottoman armies, a force 30 times larger, as a Catholic university, but impe- Virgin Mary on the altar, in a
making it a legendary town in the history of Hungary. This rial authorities opposed the idea painting by the Austrian P Minaret
of a church university and rele-
Johann Kracker.
pleasant town also offers a number of programmes for gated it to the rank of lyceum. The Knézich Károly utca 4. Tel (70) 202
families, culture lovers and active holiday-makers. ceiling of the library boasts Johann Kossuth Street, Eger’s smartest address, 43 53. Open Apr–Oct: 10am–6pm
Kracker’s fresco depicting the seen from the air daily. &
R Eger Cathedral and were the work of the Italian meeting of the Council of Trent The most northerly Ottoman
Főszékesegyház – Szent János sculptor Marco Casagrande. (1545–63). The library itself holds take the city’s waters. He is also relic in Europe, Eger’s minaret
apostol és evangélista Szent Inside, the cupola is decorated over 150,000 volumes, including responsible for most of the is a classic of its genre. Sleek
Mihály főangyal with frescoes of the Kingdom of the first book ever printed in ironwork that typifies many of and perfectly symmetrical, the
Pyrker tér 1. Tel (36) 42 09 70. Heaven by Viennese artist Johann Hungary, in 1473. In the 53-m the buildings on Kossuth Street, 14-sided sandstone tower rises
Open 8:30am–6pm daily. 7 Kracker. The cathedral also has (174-ft) “Magic Tower” is Hungary’s as well as the Hungarian National on an incline to its needle-like
Although its garish yellow Hungary’s largest organ; from April leading centre of astronomy, with Gallery in Budapest (see pp62–3) point 40 m (131 ft) above the
colour and architectural mixture to October there are performances a museum, a planetarium and a and Festetics Castle in Keszthely street. It is topped with a crescent
of Neo-Classical and Neo- on Monday to Saturday at 11:30am 19th-century camera obscura. (see pp202–3). moon and a cross. Closed for
Romanesque styles may not and on Sunday at 12:45pm. 150 years after the mosque next
be to everyone’s taste, there is R Minorite Church to it was demolished in 1841,
no doubt that Eger Cathedral – P Bishop’s Palace Szent Antonius Minorita templom the 17th-century minaret is
the second-largest church in Római katolikus érseki palota Dobó István tér now open to visitors, who are
Hungary – is the most aston- Széchenyi utca 9. Tel (36) 51 73 56. Set against the background of rewarded for climbing the 97
ishing sight in the city. It was Open Apr–Sep: 10am–6pm Tue–Sun; the open spaces of Dobó István steps up to the balcony with
built from 1831 to 1837 to a Oct–Mar: 10am–2pm Tue–Sat. & tér, the ornate exterior of the fine views of the city.
design by the architect József The second element of central former Minorite Church is far
Hild, who would later design Eger’s ecclesiastical architectural more pleasing on the eye than Main façade of the former Minorite Church, + Castle
the even larger and more triumvirate is the former that of Eger Cathedral. The built in the 18th century See pp222–3.
stunning basilica at Esztergom Bishop’s Palace on Széchenyi
(see pp148–9). The cathedral at utca. Like the Lyceum, it was
Eger is unique in Hungary, built in Baroque style to the The antique book section and the painted Eger City Centre Serbian
having a cupola – at 40 m (131 ft) designs of Jakab Kellner, and ceiling of the Lyceum library 1 Eger Cathedral Orthodox
Church
– that is shorter than the two completed in 1766. Inside, the 2 Bishop’s Palace
western towers, measuring 44 m palace houses the Ecclesi astical P Kossuth Street 3 Lyceum LE N KEY UT C A K N É ZIC H KÁ ROLY UT C A DAY KA G . UT C A SERVI TA
(144 ft). At the other end of the Collection of the Eger Bishopric, Kossuth utca. 4 Kossuth Street
building, three gargantuan sta- which includes the coronation Kossuth utca, a wide boulevard, K O V Á C S J . U T CA Castle
tues loom over the colonnad ed cloak of Habsburg Empress has long been Eger’s best 5 Minorite Church ÁRVA KÖZ TORONY UTCA UT C A
Neo-Classical façade. They repre- Maria Theresa (r. 1740–80) and address. For cen turies it was 6 Minaret Korona Hotel Minaret Under-
Wine Cellar
ground
sent Faith, Hope and Charity other price less objects. where the richest and holiest 7 Castle pp222–3 and Museum Casements
men in the city lived. At No. 4 MACZKY UTCA MARKHOT U. D O B Ó I S T VÁN U T C A
is the Vice-Provost’s Palace, a CS IK Y U TC A Eger
pastel-shaded Rococo mansion SÁNDOR IMRE U. Turkish
Bath
with a façade of hewn stone ZALAR UTCA DÓZSA
TÉR
DOBÓ
dating from 1758, which today S Z É C H E N Y I U T C A ISTVÁN DR HIBAY K. UTCA
TÉR
is closed to the public. B R O D Y S . U T C A SZENT JÁNOS UTCA Minorite KOSSUTH UTCA
Church
On the same side of the VARO S FAL U T CA GÓLYA U.
street, at No. 14, is the Franciscan ÉR SEK UTCA
Church and Monas tery, a B AR K O C Z Y UT C A Hall Local History
single-nave church built in BAJCSY-ZS ILINSZKY U. County Museum
1738 on the ruins of a former
JÓKAI UTCA
mosque. Opposite (at No. 9) 0 metres 100 Bishop's
Palace
is the Baroque County Hall, 0 yards 100 Lyceum
completed in 1758. It is famed Bus Station Eger KOSSUTH UTCA
for its two grand wrought-iron Cathedral
gates, crafted by the blacksmith TÖRV É N Y H Á Z U T C A
Henrik Fazola (1730–79), who Train Station
The sombre interior of Eger Cathedral, brightened by ceiling frescoes moved to Eger from Würzburg to 1 km (0.6 miles)
For hotels and restaurants see pp264–269 and pp276–285 For keys to map symbols see back flap
220-221_EW_Hungary.indd 220 18/09/17 3:37 pm 220-221_EW_Hungary.indd 221 18/09/17 3:37 pm

EGER  221


rounded, tiered façade and VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
twin towers are the work of
Bohemian architect Johann Practical Information
Ignaz Dientzenhofer, who Road Map E3. * 56,000.
completed the church in 1773. n Tourinform, Bajcsy-Zsilinszky
Dedicated to St Anthony of utca 9, (36) 51 77 15. ( Dobó
Padova, scenes of the saint’s life István tér; daily.
feature in the ceiling frescoes Transport
painted by Márton Reindl. He is £ Vasút utca; from Budapest. @
also depicted alongside the Pyrker János tér; from Buda pest.
Virgin Mary on the altar, in a
painting by the Austrian
Johann Kracker. P Minaret
Knézich Károly utca 4. Tel (70) 202
Kossuth Street, Eger’s smartest address, 43 53. Open Apr–Oct: 10am–6pm
seen from the air daily. &
The most northerly Ottoman
take the city’s waters. He is also relic in Europe, Eger’s minaret
responsible for most of the is a classic of its genre. Sleek
ironwork that typifies many of and perfectly symmetrical, the
the buildings on Kossuth Street, 14-sided sandstone tower rises
as well as the Hungarian National on an incline to its needle-like
Gallery in Budapest (see pp62–3) point 40 m (131 ft) above the
and Festetics Castle in Keszthely street. It is topped with a crescent
(see pp202–3). moon and a cross. Closed for
150 years after the mosque next
R Minorite Church to it was demolished in 1841,
Szent Antonius Minorita templom the 17th-century minaret is
Dobó István tér now open to visitors, who are
Set against the background of rewarded for climbing the 97
the open spaces of Dobó István steps up to the balcony with
tér, the ornate exterior of the fine views of the city.
former Minorite Church is far
more pleasing on the eye than Main façade of the former Minorite Church, + Castle
that of Eger Cathedral. The built in the 18th century See pp222–3.

Eger City Centre
Serbian
1 Eger Cathedral Orthodox
Church
2 Bishop’s Palace
3 Lyceum LE NKE Y UT C A K N É ZIC H KÁ ROLY UT C A DAY KA G . UT CA SERVI TA
4 Kossuth Street K O V Á C S J . U T CA Castle
5 Minorite Church ÁRVA KÖZ
6 Minaret Korona Hotel Minaret TORONY UTCA UT C A Under-
7 Castle pp222–3 Wine Cellar ground
and Museum
Casements
MACZKY UTCA MARKHOT U. D O B Ó I S T VÁN U T C A
CS IK Y U TC A Eger Turkish
SÁNDOR IMRE U. Bath DÓZSA
TÉR
DOBÓ DR HIBAY K. UTCA
ISTVÁN Minorite
ZALAR UTCA
TÉR
B R O D Y S . U T C A SZENT JÁNOS UTCA Church KOSSUTH UTCA
ÉR SEK UTCA
S Z É C H E N Y I U T C A
GÓLYA U.
BAJCSY-ZS ILINSZKY U. County Local History
Hall
VARO S FAL U T CA
Museum
Bishop's
JÓKAI UTCA
B AR K O C Z Y UT C A
0 metres 100 Palace
KOSSUTH UTCA
0 yards 100 Lyceum
Bus Station Eger
Cathedral
TÖRV É N Y H Á Z U T C A
Train Station
1 km (0.6 miles)
For keys to map symbols see back flap
220-221_EW_Hungary.indd 221 18/09/17 3:37 pm

222  HUNGAR Y REGION B Y REGION EGER  223

Eger Castle VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Entering Eger Castle through its tiny gate set into walls 3 m Practical Information
(10 ft) thick, with the walls of the upper fortress menacing Vár utca, Eger.
in the background, it is not difficult to understand how its Road Map E3.
Tel (36) 31 27 44.
defenders held out for so long against the invading Turks. Castle Museums: Open Apr–
For it was here at Eger, in 1552, that the greatest rearguard Oct: 10am– 6pm daily; Nov–
action in Hungarian military history was carried out. The Mar: 10am–4pm Tue–Sun.
castle, defended by a garrison of just 2,000 soldiers ably Castle Gates: Open Apr–Oct:
8am–10pm daily; Nov–Mar:
assisted by the women of the town, held out against a 8am–6pm daily. & =
Turkish force five times that size for six weeks. The Turks . Ruins of Romanesque _ Castle Festivities (Jul).
retreated, but took the castle 44 years later, only for much Cathedral ∑ egrivar.hu
of it to be destroyed in 1702 by the Habsburgs. The ruins of a 10th-century Transport
Baptistry in the inner court- . Underground Corridors £ @
. Bishop’s Palace yard feature the grave of Castle Hill is a warren of
The names of all those who Eger’s first Bishop, Buldus. under ground chambers and paths,
Waxworks in defended the castle in 1552 dug by the Turks in order to attack
Fold Bastion are engraved on a marble the castle from below. Some 200 m
A great collection of tablet in the main hall. (656 ft) are open to the public.
lifelike figures, displayed
over three levels of
the bastion, recreates
scenes from the siege.












Main
entrance









Art Gallery
The Art Gallery hosts an unrivalled Bull’s Blood Wine
collection of Baroque Hungarian
paintings and sculptures, including Bull’s Blood of Eger is Hungary’s most cele brated wine.
this bas-relief above the entrance. Comparable to Bordeaux reds, Bull’s Blood is robust and
fruity, made of a mix of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot
and Cabernet Franc grapes.
During the Siege of Eger in 1552, copious amounts
KEY of the wine were drunk by the soldiers who defended
the castle against the Turks, and word was put about
1 Round Tower that their bravery was based on the blood of bulls that
2 Ticket office had been added to the wine. The stories were almost Ippolito Gate and
certainly false, but they impressed the superstitious
3 Three Crosses Hill Turks, and played a minor role in their defeat and retreat. Bornemissza Bastion
Dobó Bastion The castle gate is named
4 Tomb of Gárdonyi The bastions and walls were built or forti fied from the after an Italian cardinal,
5 Cannon Hill mid-1500s under István Dobó, who led the defenders Egri Bikavér, Hungary’s Bull’s Blood wine Ippolito d’Este, who became
at the Siege of Eger. Archbishop of Esztergom.
For hotels and restaurants see pp264–269 and pp276–285


222-223_EW_Hungary.indd 222 18/09/17 3:40 pm 222-223_EW_Hungary.indd 223 18/09/17 3:40 pm

EGER  223


VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Vár utca, Eger.
Road Map E3.
Tel (36) 31 27 44.
Castle Museums: Open Apr–
Oct: 10am– 6pm daily; Nov–
Mar: 10am–4pm Tue–Sun.
Castle Gates: Open Apr–Oct:
8am–10pm daily; Nov–Mar:
8am–6pm daily. & =
. Ruins of Romanesque _ Castle Festivities (Jul).
Cathedral ∑ egrivar.hu
The ruins of a 10th-century Transport
Baptistry in the inner court- . Underground Corridors £ @
yard feature the grave of Castle Hill is a warren of
Eger’s first Bishop, Buldus. under ground chambers and paths,
dug by the Turks in order to attack
the castle from below. Some 200 m
(656 ft) are open to the public.
















Main
entrance











Bull’s Blood Wine
Bull’s Blood of Eger is Hungary’s most cele brated wine.
Comparable to Bordeaux reds, Bull’s Blood is robust and
fruity, made of a mix of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot
and Cabernet Franc grapes.
During the Siege of Eger in 1552, copious amounts
of the wine were drunk by the soldiers who defended
the castle against the Turks, and word was put about
that their bravery was based on the blood of bulls that
had been added to the wine. The stories were almost Ippolito Gate and
certainly false, but they impressed the superstitious Bornemissza Bastion
Turks, and played a minor role in their defeat and retreat.
The castle gate is named
after an Italian cardinal,
Egri Bikavér, Hungary’s Bull’s Blood wine Ippolito d’Este, who became
Archbishop of Esztergom.




222-223_EW_Hungary.indd 223 18/09/17 3:40 pm

224  HUNGAR Y REGION B Y REGION THE NOR THERN HIGHLANDS  225

8 Bükk National Park Climbing on cliffs
of Felső-Hámor VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
The steep, high cliffs
The Bükk Mountain region, most of which has of the Bükk offer Practical Information
been classified as a National Park since 1977, outstanding rock- Road Map E2/3. Between Eger
extends from Eger to Miskolc, not far from climbing challenges and Miskolc; roads 25 and 2505 cut
through the park. n Tourin form
Hungary’s northern border with Slovakia. for even the most Eger, Bajcsy-Zsilinszky út 9, Eger,
experienced
An area of outstanding natural beauty, it is climbers. (36) 51 77 15; Tourinform Miskolc,
renowned for its more than 1,000 caves, steep Városház tér 13, Miskolc, (46) 35 04
cliffs and lush beech forests (bükk means “beech”). 25. Anna Cave (Lillafüred): (46) 33
41 30. Open Apr–Sep: 10am– 4pm;
There is some skiing in winter at Bánkút, but the Lipizzaners in Szilvásvárad Oct: 10am–3pm; Nov–Mar: daily
main activities in the park are hiking, mountain- Horse Museum Mályinka tour at noon. 8 Suba-Lyuk.Cave:
biking, horse riding and caving. Routes of all The famous white horses Open year-round. 8 ∑ bnpi.hu
were first brought here
grades and lengths crisscross the park, forming from Lipica, in Slovenia, Transport
a broadly triangular area between the main in the 16th century. Nagyvisnyó 773 m £ @ to Eger, Miskolc, Lilla füred,
Nagyvisnyó
towns of Miskolc, Eger and Szilvásvárad. (2,536 ft) Szilvásvárad.
K i s - f e n n s í k Újmassa
Garadna
Ómassa Hámor
Hámori-tó
Szilvásvárad
Bánkút
Bánkút
Bálvány
Bálvány István-lápa Tűzkőves
956 m
956 m 945m (3,100 ft)945m (3,100 ft) Cave 895 m (2,936 ft)
(3,136 ft)
(3,136 ft)
Lillaűred
Anna Cave
Istállós-kő Bükkszentlászló Six interconnected caves
959 m (3,146 ft) B ü k k - f e n n s í k Stará Huta are accessible via a series
Szalajka
of naturally formed
Rejtek Bükkszentkereszt Miskolc limestone staircases.
Nová Huta
Fátyol Waterfall Istállós-kői
Cave
Staggered limestone steps make this 17-m- Bélapátfalva Tar-kő
Tar-kő
(56-ft-) long waterfall one of the most 949 m (3,114 ft)
949 m (3,114 ft)
attractive in Hungary. The steps enlarge a little Répáshuta
every year as the water deposits more lime. Pes-kő Nagybodzás
865 m (2,838 ft) 668 m (2,192 ft)
Mónosbél
698 m
(2,290 ft)
Romanesque Bélapátfalva Stimecz-ház
Stimecz-ház
Abbey, erected by Cistercian
monks in the 1200s, is the
best preserved in Hungary.
Bükk Mountains
Magas-tető The region is renowned for
The Szalajka Narrow-Gauge Rail way 664 m (2,178 ft) its impeccably clean air. The
runs along the entire length of the Szarvaskő highest point in the Bükk
Szalajka Valley in the summer. Ózd Mountains is Istállós-kő,
HajnoczyHajnoczy at 959 m (3,146 ft).
Felsőtárkány CaveCave
512 m
(1,680 ft)
Várhegy Bükkzsérc
669 m (2,195 ft)
Sikfőkút
Sikfőkút
Cserépfalu
Felnémet Key
Main road
Eger Other road
Suba-Lyuk Cave
Vineyards in Felsőtárkány Traces of Palaeolithic humans Narrow-gauge railway
The leafy town of Felsőtárkány, surrounded by 0 kilometres 3 have been found in this cave, Trail
vineyards and parks, is one of the best entrance 0 miles 3 making it one of the oldest-
points for Bükk National Park. known dwellings in Europe.
For additional keys to symbols see back flap Grapevines growing in the fertile soil of the Tokaj hills
224-225_EW_Hungary.indd 224 18/09/17 3:37 pm 224-225_EW_Hungary.indd 225 18/09/17 3:37 pm

THE NOR THERN HIGHLANDS  225

Climbing on cliffs
of Felső-Hámor VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
The steep, high cliffs
of the Bükk offer Practical Information
outstanding rock- Road Map E2/3. Between Eger
climbing challenges and Miskolc; roads 25 and 2505 cut
for even the most through the park. n Tourin form
experienced Eger, Bajcsy-Zsilinszky út 9, Eger,
climbers. (36) 51 77 15; Tourinform Miskolc,
Városház tér 13, Miskolc, (46) 35 04
25. Anna Cave (Lillafüred): (46) 33
41 30. Open Apr–Sep: 10am– 4pm;
Oct: 10am–3pm; Nov–Mar: daily
Mályinka tour at noon. 8 Suba-Lyuk.Cave:
Open year-round. 8 ∑ bnpi.hu
Transport
Nagyvisnyó 773 m £ @ to Eger, Miskolc, Lilla füred,
(2,536 ft) Szilvásvárad.
K i s - f e n n s í k Újmassa
Garadna
Ómassa Hámor
Hámori-tó
Bánkút
Bálvány István-lápa Tűzkőves
956 m 945m (3,100 ft) Cave 895 m (2,936 ft)
(3,136 ft)
Lillaűred
Anna Cave
B ü k k - f e n n s í k Bükkszentlászló Six interconnected caves
Stará Huta
are accessible via a series
Rejtek Bükkszentkereszt Miskolc of naturally formed
Nová Huta
limestone staircases.
Tar-kő
949 m (3,114 ft)
Répáshuta
Nagybodzás
668 m (2,192 ft)
Stimecz-ház



Bükk Mountains
Magas-tető The region is renowned for
664 m (2,178 ft) its impeccably clean air. The
highest point in the Bükk
Mountains is Istállós-kő,
Hajnoczy at 959 m (3,146 ft).
Cave


Bükkzsérc
Sikfőkút
Cserépfalu
Key
Main road
Other road
Suba-Lyuk Cave
Traces of Palaeolithic humans Narrow-gauge railway
0 kilometres 3 have been found in this cave, Trail
making it one of the oldest-
0 miles 3
known dwellings in Europe.
Grapevines growing in the fertile soil of the Tokaj hills


224-225_EW_Hungary.indd 225 18/09/17 3:37 pm

Hun_226-227.indd 226 17/02/2015 12:47 Hun_226-227.indd 227 17/02/2015 12:47

Hun_226-227.indd 227 17/02/2015 12:47

228  HUNGAR Y REGION B Y REGION THE NOR THERN HIGHLANDS  229


0 Aggteleki centuries. It was the Rákóczis
National Park who built Szerencs Castle at
the beginning of the 16th
Aggteleki Nemzeti Park century, today the most­visited
Tengerszem oldal 1, Jósvafő. attraction in the town.
Road Map E2. Tel (48) 50 60 00. Converted to domestic use
£ from Miskolc. @ from Budapest. after defeat against the Turks,
n Baradla oldal 1, Aggtelek (048) the castle houses the Zempléni
50 30 00. ∑ anp.hu Museum, which tells the story
of Rákóczi Zsigmond and the
First established in 1985, the castle’s military history, as well
Aggteleki National Park is one of as boasting the largest postcard
Hungary’s World Heritage Sites. collection in the world (over
It straddles the Slovak border, The Cave Baths in Miskolctapolca, unique in Europe 900,000). Exhibits also include
and officially also includes a vast period furniture, arms and the
area of the Slovak Karst National early humans thousands of years over centuries, the caves artistic works of goldsmiths.
Park. Large parts of the park are ago, all knowl edge of it was lost, contain water that is high in Szerencs’s main source of
The Fátyol Step-Waterfall in Szilvásvárad covered with deciduous forest, and its entrance was rediscovered calcium and magnesium, and wealth and employment was,
with clearings scattered liberally only in 1569. The cave was fully is particularly suited for treating until its closure some years
9 Szilvásvárad is known to have provided throughout the area. These mapped in 1839, and has been joint and back problems. The ago, a huge sugar factory –
shelter for prehistoric people rocky outcrops provide a open to the public ever since. water is a warm 30° C (86° F) the third largest in Europe.
30 km (19 miles) north of Eger. Road
Map E2. * 1,700. £ from Eger. @ as early as 7,000 years ago. perfect habitat for rare plants There are entrances in both all year round. The cave baths In the town’s Sugar Museum
from Budapest, Eger. _ Bükk Carriage and insects, including giant Aggtelek and Jósvafő. Many are surrounded by a large park one can see fascinating
Driving Trophy (last weekend in Jul). G Szilvásvárad Stud Farm swallow tail butterflies, as well caverns have been spectacularly with a rowing lake, and there details about the history
Egri út 16. Tel (36) 56 44 00. as 220 species of birds. Imperial lit. Parts of the cave are open is also a cave chapel nearby. and technology of sugar beet
Szilvásvárad is a leading centre Open 8am–7pm daily. & 7 eagles and woodpeckers are a to all­comers, but the best way While the 150­m­ (492­ft­) long cultivation and sugar produc­
of Hungarian equestri an ism, and common sight. There are to view it is on a tour. There cave baths are the primary tion, and displays some 800
white Lipizzaner horses – the E Lipizzaner Horse-Breeding marked nature trails, includ ing are several to choose from, attraction, the resort also offers sugar packages from around
Exhibition
same breed as those used at Park utca 8. Tel (36) 56 44 00. a 7-km (4-mile) trail from all beginning at the Aggtelek all the attractions of a conven­ the world.
the famous Spanish Riding School Open May–Oct: 9am–noon, 1–5pm Aggtelek to Jósvafő. entrance; one tour of 7 hours tional thermal bath com plex, The Gothic Reformed church
in Vienna – are bred at the Tue–Sun; Nov–Apr: 9am–noon & The park also has some takes in a part of the cave complete with sauna, massage on Kossuth tér dates from 1480,
Szilvásvárad Stud Farm (Állami 1–5pm Sat & Sun, or by appointment. 200 caves to explore, of which known as Domica under and other treatments, near­ and hosted the Hun gar ian
Ménesgazdaság Szilvásvárad). & 7 the longest system – both Slovakian terri tory. Occasionally freezing­cold plunge pools and, parlia ment in 1605. Three
The farm is open for visitors, who in the park and in Hungary – the cave, which boasts splendid on the recreational side, water generations of the Rákóczi
can also book riding and even E Open-Air Forestry Museum is the Baradla Cave (Baradla acoustics, hosts classical and slides and children’s pools. family are buried in the crypt.
carriage-driving courses here. Szalajka-völgy. Tel (36) 35 55 05. Bar lang). At 25 km (16 miles), other music concerts. Szerencs also has an elaborate
In July an international carriage- Open Apr–Oct: 9am–4pm daily it extends into Slovakia. though badly weathered
driving race takes place here. (Oct: to 3pm); Nov–Mar: 9am–2pm While archaeol ogi cal evidence T Baradla Cave e Szerencs Baroque Greek Orthodox
The village itself has more daily. 7 suggests the cave was used by Baradla oldal 1, Aggtelek. Tel (48) 50 32 km (20 miles) east of Miskolc. Road church, built in 1799, on Ondi
information on the famous horses 30 00. Open (guided tours only) Apr– Map F2. * 11,000. £ from Miskolc, utca in the north of the town.
in its fascinating Lipizzaner Sep: 8am–5pm daily; Oct–Mar: 8am– Budapest. @ from Budapest.
Horse-Breeding Exhibition 3pm daily; Oct: 8am–5pm Sat. & E Zempléni Museum
(Lipicai Lóte nyésztés Történeti The little town of Szerencs is Rákóczi­vár. Tel (47) 77 77 70.
Kiállítás). Also on display here q Miskolc dominated by its historical links Open 10am–4pm Tue–Sun. 8 7
are a number of coaches and a with the Rákóczi family, who E Sugar Museum
complete working smithy. See pp230–31. owned the town and much Gyár út 1. Tel (47) 77 77 72.
But there is more to Szilvás várad of the surrounding area for Open 8am–4pm daily.
than horses – it is also the gateway w Miskolctapolca
to the beautiful Szalajka Valley.
A narrow-gauge steam railway Pazár sétány, Miskolctapolca.
runs the 5 km (3 miles) from the Road Map E2. Tel (46) 56 00 30. @
village to Szalajka-Fátyol-vizesés, from Búza tér, Miskolc. Open May–
site of the gentle but wide Fátyol Aug: 9am–7pm daily; Sep–Dec, Feb–
Step-Waterfall, as well as the Apr: 9am–6pm daily. & 7 0 -
Open-Air Forestry Museum = ∑ barlangfurdo.hu
(Szabadtéri Erdészeti Múzeum).
The exhibits of early people’s tiny The cave baths of Miskolctapolca,
huts, furnaces and ele mentary set amid the back drop of the
hunting tools are fascinating. Bükk Hills, are the most spec­
At the head of the valley is the tacular in Hungary. A vast resort
Istállóskő Cave, which burrows has grown around the caves,
under Mount Istállóskő – at 959 m which, discovered in the 16th
(3,146 ft) the highest peak in the century, have been attracting
Bükk Mountain Range. The cave Spectacular rock formations in the Baradla Cave in Aggteleki National Park bathers ever since. Carved out Szerencs Castle, housing the Zempléni Museum
For hotels and restaurants see pp264–269 and pp276–285


228-229_EW_Hungary.indd 228 18/09/17 3:40 pm 228-229_EW_Hungary.indd 229 18/09/17 3:40 pm

THE NOR THERN HIGHLANDS  229


centuries. It was the Rákóczis
who built Szerencs Castle at
the beginning of the 16th
century, today the most­visited
attraction in the town.
Converted to domestic use
after defeat against the Turks,
the castle houses the Zempléni
Museum, which tells the story
of Rákóczi Zsigmond and the
castle’s military history, as well
as boasting the largest postcard
collection in the world (over
The Cave Baths in Miskolctapolca, unique in Europe 900,000). Exhibits also include
period furniture, arms and the
early humans thousands of years over centuries, the caves artistic works of goldsmiths.
ago, all knowl edge of it was lost, contain water that is high in Szerencs’s main source of
and its entrance was rediscovered calcium and magnesium, and wealth and employment was,
only in 1569. The cave was fully is particularly suited for treating until its closure some years
mapped in 1839, and has been joint and back problems. The ago, a huge sugar factory –
open to the public ever since. water is a warm 30° C (86° F) the third largest in Europe.
There are entrances in both all year round. The cave baths In the town’s Sugar Museum
Aggtelek and Jósvafő. Many are surrounded by a large park one can see fascinating
caverns have been spectacularly with a rowing lake, and there details about the history
lit. Parts of the cave are open is also a cave chapel nearby. and technology of sugar beet
to all­comers, but the best way While the 150­m­ (492­ft­) long cultivation and sugar produc­
to view it is on a tour. There cave baths are the primary tion, and displays some 800
are several to choose from, attraction, the resort also offers sugar packages from around
all beginning at the Aggtelek all the attractions of a conven­ the world.
entrance; one tour of 7 hours tional thermal bath com plex, The Gothic Reformed church
takes in a part of the cave complete with sauna, massage on Kossuth tér dates from 1480,
known as Domica under and other treatments, near­ and hosted the Hun gar ian
Slovakian terri tory. Occasionally freezing­cold plunge pools and, parlia ment in 1605. Three
the cave, which boasts splendid on the recreational side, water generations of the Rákóczi
acoustics, hosts classical and slides and children’s pools. family are buried in the crypt.
other music concerts. Szerencs also has an elaborate
though badly weathered
T Baradla Cave e Szerencs Baroque Greek Orthodox
Baradla oldal 1, Aggtelek. Tel (48) 50 church, built in 1799, on Ondi
30 00. Open (guided tours only) Apr– 32 km (20 miles) east of Miskolc. Road utca in the north of the town.
Sep: 8am–5pm daily; Oct–Mar: 8am– Map F2. * 11,000. £ from Miskolc,
3pm daily; Oct: 8am–5pm Sat. & Budapest. @ from Budapest. E Zempléni Museum
The little town of Szerencs is Rákóczi­vár. Tel (47) 77 77 70.
q Miskolc dominated by its historical links Open 10am–4pm Tue–Sun. 8 7
with the Rákóczi family, who E Sugar Museum
See pp230–31. owned the town and much Gyár út 1. Tel (47) 77 77 72.
of the surrounding area for Open 8am–4pm daily.
w Miskolctapolca
Pazár sétány, Miskolctapolca.
Road Map E2. Tel (46) 56 00 30. @
from Búza tér, Miskolc. Open May–
Aug: 9am–7pm daily; Sep–Dec, Feb–
Apr: 9am–6pm daily. & 7 0 -
= ∑ barlangfurdo.hu
The cave baths of Miskolctapolca,
set amid the back drop of the
Bükk Hills, are the most spec­
tacular in Hungary. A vast resort
has grown around the caves,
which, discovered in the 16th
century, have been attracting
bathers ever since. Carved out Szerencs Castle, housing the Zempléni Museum




228-229_EW_Hungary.indd 229 18/09/17 3:40 pm

230  HUNGAR Y REGION B Y REGION THE NOR THERN HIGHLANDS  231

q Miskolc completed in 1806, and was R Calvinist Church VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
originally intended to be Avasi református templom
Home of Hungary’s largest university, Miskolc is the fourth- topped with a classic Ortho dox Papszer utca 14. Tel (46) 35 86 77. Practical Information
largest city in the country. An industrial town first and onion dome, but local Protestant The Calvinist Church below Road Map E2. * 161,000.
foremost, much of the outskirts, and even parts of the city authorities forbade this. Next the Avas Hill, with its steep, Deák Ferenc tér. n Tourin form,
Széchenyi utca 16, (46) 35 04 25.
centre, are less than attractive, having been built in the door in the museum is the detached belfry, is the oldest _ Jelly Festival (Feb); Miskolc
richest Orthodox liturgical
building in Miskolc. Originally
aftermath of heavy bombing during World War II. Amid collection in Hungary, opened Roman esque in style, the Opera Festival (Jun); Castle
the concrete, however, a wealth of historical buildings can in a former school in 1988. Its 13th-century building was Theatre evenings (Jul–Aug);
be explored, including Hungary’s oldest theatre, wooden permanent exhibition includes destroyed by Turks in 1544. It Cinefest Film Festival (Sep).
churches of every Christian denomination, fine public squares ceremonial robes, sepulchres was rebuilt – with the tower – Diósgyőr Castle, rebuilt in the 13th century Transport
£ Kandó Kálmán tér; from Buda-
and a fascinating museum. Miskolc is also the site of Diósgyőr and more than 200 icons. in 1557. The clock on the belfry castle here was probably built pest, Debrecen. @ Búza tér; from
is one of the symbols of the
Castle, renovated and restored to its full medieval glory. Buda pest, Debrecen.
city, and can be heard chiming in the 12th century, and is
every 15 minutes. The large and thought to have been an
E Theatre Museum immaculately kept cemetery earthwork castle. It guarded
Színháztörténeti és that surrounds the church is the route from Venice to decades from 1953 to 1971,
Színészmúzeum the resting place of a number KraKow for a long time and was the castle today hosts an
Déryné utca 3. Tel (30) 660 92 99. of local digni taries, including destroyed during the Mongol exhibition of its history (in
Open 9am–5pm Tue–Sun. & 8 7 the poet Mihály Tompa, author invasion of 1241–2. The castle the northeastern tower),
In this museum, visitors can of the romantic collection that stands here today was alongside a display of medieval
discover the secrets behind the Virágregék (Legends of Flowers). built during the reign of weaponry. Life-size waxworks
fire that destroyed the original Béla IV, who, after the Mongols recreate the signing of the
Miskolc Theatre in 1843, as well + Diósgyőr Castle left the country, decreed that a Treaty of Turin in 1381, while
as the fact that an earlier theatre Entrances to the many wine cellars on the Diósgyőri vár castle be built “on every hilltop”. others, in the outer battle-
in Kolozsvár (today the town of slopes of Avas Hill Miskolc-Diósgyőr, Vár utca 24. Tel (46) The castle was subsequently ments, feature scenes of
Façade of the National Theatre, which hosts Cluj-Napoca in Romania) in fact 53 33 55. Open Apr–Oct: 9am–6pm used as a residence by several everyday life in medieval
an opera festival in summer has a previous claim on the title P Avas Hill and Ottó daily; Nov–Mar: 10am–5pm daily. & monarchs, although it lost Diósgyőr. Twice a year, in May
of first Hungarian theatre. There Herman Museum 8 7 its military status after the and August, plays and a
F National Theatre are also countless costumes, Avas hegy. Diósgyőr’s medieval castle is withdrawal of the Turks in medieval fair are held in the
Miskolci Nemzeti Színház bill posters and theatrical More than 800 cinder caves located 8 km (5 miles) from 1687, and fell into neglect. castle grounds, with jousting,
Déryné utca 1. Tel (46) 51 67 35. memorabilia on display, as well have been dug out here and the centre of Miskolc. The first Completely restored over two archery and dance.
& 7 ∑ mnsz.hu as a photo graphic exhibition used as wine cellars since the
Hungary’s oldest permanent, about the theatre’s role in the 16th century; some are open
Hungarian-language theatre city’s develop ment. A sketch during the summer for tastings. Miskolc City Centre
stood here between 1823 shows the late 18th-century The cellars line cobbled streets 1 National Theatre PETŐFI
TÉR
and 1843. Its Neo-Classical wooden theatre that once that wind their way up to the 2 Theatre Museum JÓ KA I M O R UTC A S ZE L ES UTCA
replacement was opened in stood on the site. Lookout Tower on Avas Hill, 3 Greek Orthodox Church FAZEKAS UTCA
Greek
1857, with a play by Mihály from where splendid views and Museum Orthodox Orthodox KAZINC ZY U TC A Shopping Intercity
Centre
Museum
Vörösmarty, and despite much R Greek Orthodox Church of the city are to be had. 4 Avas Hill and Ottó Church MAD A R Á SZ V I K T OR UC TA Bus Station
renovation over the years it and Museum At the foot of the hill is the Herman Museum BATTHYANY L. UTCA BÚZA TÉR
is that structure which mostly Görögkeleti, Ortodox templom; Ottó Herman Museum, named 5 Calvinist Church DEÁK H O R VÁTH LA JO S U TC A Local Bus
TÉR
survives today. With its Magyar Ortodox Egyházi Múzeum after Ottó Herman (1835– PA LÓ C Z Y L Á S Z LÓ U T C A Station
protruding three-arched loggia Deák Ferenc tér 7. Tel (46) 41 54 41. 1914), a local archaeologist. 6 Diósgyőr Castle Diósgyőr HŐSÖK S Z E NTPÁL
ADY E
TERE
over the entrance it resembles Open May–Sep: 10am–6pm Tue–Sun; The museum is housed in a Castle
Gömöri
Hungary’s State Opera Oct–Apr: 10am–4pm Tue–Sun. charming 19th-century house, Town PATAK U T C A R É G I P O S TA U TC A I UTCA SZÜCS S. UTCA NDRE UTCA Train Station
700 m
House in Budapest (see & 7 with wooden, external balconies. Hall KOSS U TH LA JO S UTC A Museum (770 yards)
Theatre
pp92–3). The tower, At 16 m (52 ft) in height, It contains good collections of VÁROSHÁZ D ÉRY N É UT C A KA Z I NCZY UT C A Shopping
TÉR
added in 1880, was and boasting 88 archaeological finds, stones and National S ZÉ C HEN YI ISTVÁN ÚT Centre
Theatre
originally used as a images of the life of minerals, as well as displays on SZÉC H EN Y I I ST VÁN Ú T AR ANY J. UT CA KIRÁLY UTCA
fire lookout point. Jesus, the iconostasis industrial history and coins. ERSZEBET
TÉR
The restored in the Greek Ortho dox The fine art collection comprises KAND IA UTCA ARA N Y J . U T CA
Baroque interior has Church is the most masterworks by all famous Bell KÁ LVI N J Á NOS UTCA
intricate statuary important sight in Hungarian painters. The Tower U I T Z B É LA U T C A Tiszai Train Station
1 km (1100 yards)
decorating the two Miskolc. Dating from museum’s library (on Görgey Calvinist SZEMERE B . UT CA
rows of private boxes. 1793, it was carved in Artúr utca) holds more than Church PAPS Z E R UTCA VÖRÖSMARTY UTCA
R Á K Ó C Z I F E R E N C U T C A
The theatre is the the work shop of Miklós 200,000 volumes and is CSÁTI S O R
main venue of Icon from the Greek Jankovits of Eger; the renowned throughout the PETŐFI S OR
the Miskolc Opera Orthodox Church pictures were painted world for its collection of FÖLDES F. UTCA COR VIN UT CA M A DÁ I L . UT C A
ARNÓTI SOR
Festival, which takes by Anton Kuchel meister. scientific works. 0 metres 200 ZSOLCAI SOR KIS AVAS 3. SOR KIS AVAS 1. SOR
place here every June, To its left is a painting of the 200 GÖRGEY ARTÚR UTCA DA N K Ó PI S TA U T CA
KIS AVAS 2. SOR
and features the work of Black Mary of Kazan, a gift E Ottó Herman Museum 0 yards
the Hungarian composer from Empress Catherine II of Görgey Artúr utca 28. Tel (46) 56 01 Avas Hill
Béla Bartók and others. Russia. The church itself was 70. Open 10am–4pm Tue–Sun. & 7 Ottó Herman BUDAPEST
Museum
For hotels and restaurants see pp264–269 and pp276–285 For keys to map symbols see back flap
230-231_EW_Hungary.indd 230 18/09/17 3:37 pm 230-231_EW_Hungary.indd 231 18/09/17 3:37 pm

THE NOR THERN HIGHLANDS  231


R Calvinist Church VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Avasi református templom
Papszer utca 14. Tel (46) 35 86 77. Practical Information
The Calvinist Church below Road Map E2. * 161,000.
the Avas Hill, with its steep, Deák Ferenc tér. n Tourin form,
detached belfry, is the oldest Széchenyi utca 16, (46) 35 04 25.
building in Miskolc. Originally _ Jelly Festival (Feb); Miskolc
Roman esque in style, the Opera Festival (Jun); Castle
13th-century building was Theatre evenings (Jul–Aug);
destroyed by Turks in 1544. It Cinefest Film Festival (Sep).
was rebuilt – with the tower – Diósgyőr Castle, rebuilt in the 13th century Transport
in 1557. The clock on the belfry £ Kandó Kálmán tér; from Buda-
is one of the symbols of the castle here was probably built pest, Debrecen. @ Búza tér; from
city, and can be heard chiming in the 12th century, and is Buda pest, Debrecen.
every 15 minutes. The large and thought to have been an
immaculately kept cemetery earthwork castle. It guarded
that surrounds the church is the route from Venice to decades from 1953 to 1971,
the resting place of a number KraKow for a long time and was the castle today hosts an
of local digni taries, including destroyed during the Mongol exhibition of its history (in
the poet Mihály Tompa, author invasion of 1241–2. The castle the northeastern tower),
of the romantic collection that stands here today was alongside a display of medieval
Virágregék (Legends of Flowers). built during the reign of weaponry. Life-size waxworks
Béla IV, who, after the Mongols recreate the signing of the
+ Diósgyőr Castle left the country, decreed that a Treaty of Turin in 1381, while
Diósgyőri vár castle be built “on every hilltop”. others, in the outer battle-
Miskolc-Diósgyőr, Vár utca 24. Tel (46) The castle was subsequently ments, feature scenes of
53 33 55. Open Apr–Oct: 9am–6pm used as a residence by several everyday life in medieval
daily; Nov–Mar: 10am–5pm daily. & monarchs, although it lost Diósgyőr. Twice a year, in May
8 7 its military status after the and August, plays and a
Diósgyőr’s medieval castle is withdrawal of the Turks in medieval fair are held in the
located 8 km (5 miles) from 1687, and fell into neglect. castle grounds, with jousting,
the centre of Miskolc. The first Completely restored over two archery and dance.

Miskolc City Centre
PETŐFI
1 National Theatre TÉR
2 Theatre Museum JÓ KA I M O R UTC A S ZE L ES UTCA
3 Greek Orthodox Church FAZEKAS UTCA Orthodox Shopping
Greek
Intercity
and Museum Orthodox Museum KAZINC ZY UTC A Centre Bus Station
4 Avas Hill and Ottó Church MAD A R Á SZ V I K T OR UC TA BÚZA TÉR
Herman Museum BATTHYANY L. UTCA
5 Calvinist Church DEÁK H O RVÁTH LA JO S U TC A Local Bus
Station
TÉR
6 Diósgyőr Castle PA LÓ C Z Y L Á S Z LÓ U T C A
ADY E
Diósgyőr HŐSÖK S Z E NTPÁL
TERE
Castle
Gömöri
Town PATAK U T C A KOSS U TH LA JO S U TC A R É G I P O S TA U TC A I UTCA SZÜCS S. UTCA NDRE UTCA Train Station
700 m
Theatre
Hall Museum D ÉRY N É UT C A (770 yards)
VÁROSHÁZ KA Z I NCZY UT C A
TÉR National S ZÉ C HEN YI ISTVÁN ÚT Shopping
Centre
Theatre
SZÉC H EN Y I I ST VÁN Ú T KIRÁLY UTCA
AR ANY J. UT CA
ERSZEBET
TÉR ARA N Y J . U T CA
KAND IA UTCA
SZEMERE B . UT CA
Bell KÁ LVI N J Á NOS UTCA
Tower Tiszai Train Station
1 km (1100 yards)
Calvinist U I T Z B É LA U T C A
Church PAPS Z E R UTCA VÖRÖSMARTY UTCA
R Á K Ó C Z I F E R E N C U T C A
CSÁTI S O R
PETŐFI S OR
FÖLDES F. UTCA COR VIN UT CA M A DÁ I L . UT C A
ARNÓTI SOR
0 metres 200 ZSOLCAI SOR KIS AVAS 3. SOR KIS AVAS 1. SOR
KIS AVAS 2. SOR
0 yards 200 GÖRGEY ARTÚR UTCA DA N K Ó PI S TA U T C A
Avas Hill
Ottó Herman BUDAPEST
Museum
For keys to map symbols see back flap
230-231_EW_Hungary.indd 231 18/09/17 3:37 pm

232  HUNGAR Y REGION B Y REGION THE NOR THERN HIGHLANDS  233

r Tokaj Ural owls, spoonbill ducks and Lajos Kossuth stands in the
40 km (25 miles) northwest of a large number of butter flies, middle of the square that is
Nyíre gy háza. Road Map F2. many of which, such as the named after him.
* 4,600. £ from Miskolc. @ from twin-spotted fritillary, are Just north of the town hall
Debrecen, Buda pest. n Tourinform, thought to be unique to the stands a Neo­Classical build ing
Serház utca 1, (47) 35 21 25. Zemplén mountain range. that houses the Ferenc
Further north, in the tiny Kazinczy Museum, named
At the confluence of the village of Füzér, is the Füzér after the language reformer
rivers Bodrog and Tisza, Village Museum, consisting Ferenc Kazinczy, a tireless
rich, fertile soil facilitates of just one painted house, campaigner for replacing German
the cultivation of Hungary’s furnished as it would have been with Hungarian as the nation’s
best grapevines. These in the 1870s. High above the official language and a reformer
produce the country’s finest village on a crag sit the ruins of the Hun garian language
wines. Smooth and delicately of Füzér Castle (1310). itself. The museum contains
sweet, Tokaji dessert wine The Louis XI-style Lajos Kossuth Memorial Monok, 10 km (6 miles) exhibits about Kazinczy’s work,
is made exclusively in and Museum in Monok northwest of Szerencs, is the as well as regional history.
around Tokaj. In 2002 UNESCO birthplace of the Hungarian The Neo-Renaissance Castle in Sárospatak, home to the Rákóczi Museum Kazinczy died in a cholera
placed the region on its t Zemplén Hills lawyer and politician Lajos epidemic in 1831 and is buried
World Heritage List. 50 km (31 miles) north of Nyíregy háza. Kossuth, who was elected loggias and entrances are all u Sátoraljaújhely in the elaborate Kazinczy
The best place to learn Road Map F2. £ to Sátoral jaújhely. Regent of Hungary during fabulously expres sive. Much 13 km (8 miles) northeast of Sáros­ Mausoleum (and memorial
about Tokaji wine is in one @ to Sátoraljaújhely, Pálháza, Füzér. the revolution of 1848–9. of this part of the castle is today patak. Road Map F2. * 18,000. museum) at Széphalom, 3 km
of the many cellars. The most n Tourinform Sátoraljaújhely, The Lajos Kossuth Memorial given over to the Rákóczi £ from Miskolc. @ from Sáros patak. (2 miles) north of the town
famous are the 16th-century Kossuth Lajos tér 5, (47) 32 14 58. Museum, in the family’s Museum, which has exhibitions n Tourinform, Kossuth Lajos tér 5, centre. Visited by tens of
Rákóczi Cellars. Here, visitors 18th-century home, exhibits on the building of the castle and (47) 32 14 58. thousands of literary pilgrims
can taste Aszú, which is More than 2,000 km (1,243 miles) portraits and memorabilia the history of the Rákóczi family, each year, the Neo­Classical
matured on the premises. of marked hiking trails cover from flags to documents. The as well as Renaissance­era food At the foot of the Zemplén mausoleum was designed by
The wine industry dominates both the eastern and western museum opened on 15 March and winemaking. Hills, Sátoraljaújhely, the most Miklós Ybl (see p93) and built on
the town, but the Tokaj flanks of the Zem plén range. 1948, the 100th anniversary At the opposite end of the northerly town in Hungary, the site of the Kazinczy mansion.
Museum (Tokaji Múzeum) is Volcanic in origin, the highest of of the revolution. town centre is the Calvinist is known for its atmospheric Near Kazinczy Ferenc utca,
mainly devoted to revealing the hills is the 896-m- (2,940-ft-) Sárospatak Reformed College, Baroque centre. Most of the a derelict synagogue and its
life on the Bodrog and Tisza high Nagy-Milic, which marks E Lajos Kossuth Memorial founded in 1531 but dating in town’s sights are based on cemetery are sad reminders
rivers long before wine was Hungary’s border with Slovakia. Museum its present form from 1806–22. Kossuth Lajos tér, and of all of the Jewish community that
made in these parts. There The village of Pálháza, Kossuth Lajos utca 18, Monok. There are guided tours of the the squares named for that once lived here. Only a handful
is also a large collection of 19 km (12 miles) north of Tel (47) 35 60 39. Open Mar–Oct: library in the south wing, a revolu tionary in Hungary, this of the town’s Jews survived
ecclesiastical art on display. Sátoraljaújhely, is a good base 10am–5pm Tue–Sun (Jun–Aug: to master piece of Neo­Classical is perhaps the most deserving. the Holocaust.
to explore the Zemplén. It is 6pm). & 7 archi tecture that was designed In 1830, Lajos allegedly made
P Rákóczi Cellars also the starting point of a by Mihály Pollack. Its enormous his first political speech from E Ferenc Kazinczy Museum
Kossuth Lajos tér 15. Tel (47) 35 24 08. narrow-gauge railway that runs y Sárospatak roof is supported by 16 marble the balcony of the Baroque Dózsa György utca 11. Tel (47) 32 23
Open 10am–8pm daily. & 8 7 up to Rostalló, from where the columns. In the extensive gardens town hall (built in 1762–8) that 51. Open 9am–5pm Tue–Sun. & 8
vast majority of the Zempléns’ 70 km (43 miles) northeast of Miskolc. are statues of former pupils, stands at No. 5. The build ing Hungarian only. 7
E Tokaj Museum hiking trails depart. Wildlife Road Map F2. * 15,000. £ from including the Czech humanist itself is a unique example of E Kazinczy Mausoleum
Bethlen Gábor út 7. Tel (47) 35 26 36. to look out for include snakes, Budapest, Miskolc. @ from Debrecen, Johann Amos Comenius. experimental archi tecture with Kazinczy park, Széphalom. Tel (47) 52
Open 10am–4pm Tue–Sun. & 8 7 birds of prey, woodpeckers, Miskolc. n Tourinform, Eötvös utca 6, The modernist shopping its short, squat ground floor 12 36. Open Apr–Oct: 9am–5pm Tue–
(47) 31 53 16. centre and apartment build ings topped by an oversized upper Sun; Nov–Mar: 8am–4pm Tue–Sun.
Tokaj’s Golden Wine in the centre of the city, the level. An imposing statue of & 8 7
Try as it might to promote its work of local architect Imre
Tokaji, also known as Aszú, is one of the world’s great dessert wines. other sights, it is the castle that Makovecz, are also worth
It was once thought to actually con tain gold dust. Famous as far is the first port of call for all seeing. Built in 1972, the four­
back as the time of Mátyás I, a chronicler wrote in 1458 that “the visitors to the leafy, riverside storey build ings form a series
men of Tokaj are obtaining gold from their volcanic land. Even town of Sárospatak. The reason of interlinking white towers, all
the vines bear golden fruit.” A century later the Swiss philosopher is the inner keep, which bears leaning slightly forwards and
Paracelsus tested the local grapes for traces of gold. He found an uncanny resem blance to topped with steep brown roofs
none but concluded that the Palazzo Vecchio in Florence. – a modern interpretation of
“in the grapes of Tokaj the It was the first part of the castle Árpád tents.
natural and the mineral to be built, in the 1530s when
combine”. The secret of the E Rákóczi Museum
wine’s flavour and golden the keeper of the Hungarian Szent Erzsébet utca 19. Tel (47) 31 10
appearance is less exotic: the crown, Peter Perényi, was 83. Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun. &
grapes for Aszú are harvested awarded the estate after the 8 7
late (in early November), after Battle of Mohács (see p187).
they have begun to rot and a The castle was extended in the P Sárospatak Reformed College
mould has formed. This “noble 17th century by Prince György I Rákóczi út 1. Tel (47) 31 10 57.
Wine maturing in barrels in the Rákóczi rot” naturally increases sugar (Rákóczi), who added four wings, Library: Open Mar–Oct: 9am–5pm
Cellars, Tokaj content by up to 70 per cent. all built in extra vagant Neo- Mon–Sat, 9am–1pm Sun; Nov–Feb:
Renaissance style. The balconies, by appointment only. & 8 7 Original furniture at the Ferenc Kazinczy Museum in Sátoraljaújhely
For hotels and restaurants see pp264–269 and pp276–285


232-233_EW_Hungary.indd 232 18/09/17 3:41 pm 232-233_EW_Hungary.indd 233 18/09/17 3:41 pm

THE NOR THERN HIGHLANDS  233


Lajos Kossuth stands in the
middle of the square that is
named after him.
Just north of the town hall
stands a Neo­Classical build ing
that houses the Ferenc
Kazinczy Museum, named
after the language reformer
Ferenc Kazinczy, a tireless
campaigner for replacing German
with Hungarian as the nation’s
official language and a reformer
of the Hun garian language
itself. The museum contains
exhibits about Kazinczy’s work,
as well as regional history.
The Neo-Renaissance Castle in Sárospatak, home to the Rákóczi Museum Kazinczy died in a cholera
epidemic in 1831 and is buried
loggias and entrances are all u Sátoraljaújhely in the elaborate Kazinczy
fabulously expres sive. Much 13 km (8 miles) northeast of Sáros­ Mausoleum (and memorial
of this part of the castle is today patak. Road Map F2. * 18,000. museum) at Széphalom, 3 km
given over to the Rákóczi £ from Miskolc. @ from Sáros patak. (2 miles) north of the town
Museum, which has exhibitions n Tourinform, Kossuth Lajos tér 5, centre. Visited by tens of
on the building of the castle and (47) 32 14 58. thousands of literary pilgrims
the history of the Rákóczi family, each year, the Neo­Classical
as well as Renaissance­era food At the foot of the Zemplén mausoleum was designed by
and winemaking. Hills, Sátoraljaújhely, the most Miklós Ybl (see p93) and built on
At the opposite end of the northerly town in Hungary, the site of the Kazinczy mansion.
town centre is the Calvinist is known for its atmospheric Near Kazinczy Ferenc utca,
Sárospatak Reformed College, Baroque centre. Most of the a derelict synagogue and its
founded in 1531 but dating in town’s sights are based on cemetery are sad reminders
its present form from 1806–22. Kossuth Lajos tér, and of all of the Jewish community that
There are guided tours of the the squares named for that once lived here. Only a handful
library in the south wing, a revolu tionary in Hungary, this of the town’s Jews survived
master piece of Neo­Classical is perhaps the most deserving. the Holocaust.
archi tecture that was designed In 1830, Lajos allegedly made
by Mihály Pollack. Its enormous his first political speech from E Ferenc Kazinczy Museum
roof is supported by 16 marble the balcony of the Baroque Dózsa György utca 11. Tel (47) 32 23
columns. In the extensive gardens town hall (built in 1762–8) that 51. Open 9am–5pm Tue–Sun. & 8
are statues of former pupils, stands at No. 5. The build ing Hungarian only. 7
including the Czech humanist itself is a unique example of E Kazinczy Mausoleum
Johann Amos Comenius. experimental archi tecture with Kazinczy park, Széphalom. Tel (47) 52
The modernist shopping its short, squat ground floor 12 36. Open Apr–Oct: 9am–5pm Tue–
centre and apartment build ings topped by an oversized upper Sun; Nov–Mar: 8am–4pm Tue–Sun.
in the centre of the city, the level. An imposing statue of & 8 7
work of local architect Imre
Makovecz, are also worth
seeing. Built in 1972, the four­
storey build ings form a series
of interlinking white towers, all
leaning slightly forwards and
topped with steep brown roofs
– a modern interpretation of
Árpád tents.
E Rákóczi Museum
Szent Erzsébet utca 19. Tel (47) 31 10
83. Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun. &
8 7
P Sárospatak Reformed College
Rákóczi út 1. Tel (47) 31 10 57.
Library: Open Mar–Oct: 9am–5pm
Mon–Sat, 9am–1pm Sun; Nov–Feb:
by appointment only. & 8 7 Original furniture at the Ferenc Kazinczy Museum in Sátoraljaújhely




232-233_EW_Hungary.indd 233 18/09/17 3:41 pm

HUNGAR Y REGION B Y REGION  235

THE GREAT

PLAIN


If Budapest is Hungary’s heart, then her soul is the
Great Plain, where her character has been forged over
the centuries, and preserved ever since in the work of the
nation’s writers, poets and musicians. Nomadic horsemen and their cattle,
shepherds and their unique sheep, fields of ripening paprika and fish soup in
huge kettles over open fires are evocative images that every visitor should see.


Mainly barren and dry, the Great Plain is a livestock. The population fled to the
vast area, covering more than half of the cities of Debrecen, Nyíregyháza, Szeged,
country (about 56 per cent). Here, long, Kecskemét and even Budapest for
hot summers give way to bleak, freezing protection, food and livelihoods, and the
winters, with little in between. However, term Puszta was coined to describe the
there is a wide variety of terrain on the emptiness left in the Ottoman wake.
Great Plain, as well as some outstanding A few hearty souls stayed on. The
cities and a diverse flora and fauna. csikósok horsemen (see p239) thrived,
As recently as medieval times, the as severe flooding in the 19th century
Great Plain was, in fact, not a steppe, but allowed the grass to regrow, making
forested and lush, rich in agriculture and the Plain prime grazing territory.
dotted with thousands of farmsteads that Fortunes were made by cattle owners,
were set up by the Magyars as they and romantic poets wrote of the
populated these fertile lands on both heroes and villains.
banks of the Tisza. And this is where the The csikósok survive, but today their
legends begin: the Turks invaded Hungary, traditions only entertain visitors. At the
and almost two centuries of constant war, Hortobágy National Park and in other
from 1526 to 1699, devastated the region. protected areas of the Plain, these historic
In many parts they chopped down the grasslands are sheltered from the
forests and burned vegetation and advances of industrial agriculture.






















Zsolnay ceramic tiles on Kiskunfélegyháza’s Secession-era Town Hall
A flock of characteristic longhaired sheep, or racka, grazing on lush grass



234_235_EW_Hungary.indd 234 18/09/17 3:41 pm 234_235_EW_Hungary.indd 235 18/09/17 3:41 pm

HUNGAR Y REGION B Y REGION  235

THE GREAT

PLAIN


If Budapest is Hungary’s heart, then her soul is the
Great Plain, where her character has been forged over
the centuries, and preserved ever since in the work of the
nation’s writers, poets and musicians. Nomadic horsemen and their cattle,
shepherds and their unique sheep, fields of ripening paprika and fish soup in
huge kettles over open fires are evocative images that every visitor should see.


Mainly barren and dry, the Great Plain is a livestock. The population fled to the
vast area, covering more than half of the cities of Debrecen, Nyíregyháza, Szeged,
country (about 56 per cent). Here, long, Kecskemét and even Budapest for
hot summers give way to bleak, freezing protection, food and livelihoods, and the
winters, with little in between. However, term Puszta was coined to describe the
there is a wide variety of terrain on the emptiness left in the Ottoman wake.
Great Plain, as well as some outstanding A few hearty souls stayed on. The
cities and a diverse flora and fauna. csikósok horsemen (see p239) thrived,
As recently as medieval times, the as severe flooding in the 19th century
Great Plain was, in fact, not a steppe, but allowed the grass to regrow, making
forested and lush, rich in agriculture and the Plain prime grazing territory.
dotted with thousands of farmsteads that Fortunes were made by cattle owners,
were set up by the Magyars as they and romantic poets wrote of the
populated these fertile lands on both heroes and villains.
banks of the Tisza. And this is where the The csikósok survive, but today their
legends begin: the Turks invaded Hungary, traditions only entertain visitors. At the
and almost two centuries of constant war, Hortobágy National Park and in other
from 1526 to 1699, devastated the region. protected areas of the Plain, these historic
In many parts they chopped down the grasslands are sheltered from the
forests and burned vegetation and advances of industrial agriculture.






















Zsolnay ceramic tiles on Kiskunfélegyháza’s Secession-era Town Hall
A flock of characteristic longhaired sheep, or racka, grazing on lush grass



234_235_EW_Hungary.indd 235 18/09/17 3:41 pm

236  HUNGAR Y REGION B Y REGION THE GREA T PLAIN  237

Exploring the Great Plain

Covering more than half the country, the Great Plain
defines Hungary and the Hungarians more than
any other region. It was here that great battles were
fought and that many of the country’s traditions
were preserved during foreign domination. KisvárdaKisvárda
Sparsely populated, there are few cities and only a CSARODACSARODA
couple of large towns, but there is much to see and TokajTokaj SZABOLCSSZABOLCS Tisza SZATMÁRCSEKESZATMÁRCSEKE
Tisza
do – whether watching the stunning displays of -SZATMÁR-BEREG-SZATMÁR-BEREG
the Puszta horsemen or luxuriating in one of the TiszavasváriTiszavasvári MátészalkaMátészalka TúristvándiTúristvándi
thermal spas, exploring Hortobágy National Park or NYÍREGYHÁZANYÍREGYHÁZA Szamos
Szamos
admiring Secessionist archi tecture in Szeged and MÁRIAPÓCSMÁRIAPÓCS NYÍRBÁTORNYÍRBÁTOR
ambling around Debrecen. The artificial Mediterranean beach at the MiskolcMiskolc HajdúnánásHajdúnánás
Hajdúszoboszló spa
TISZATISZA HajdúböszörményHajdúböszörmény
LAKELAKE
HatvanHatvan HORTOBÁGYHORTOBÁGY
EgerEger DEBRECENDEBRECEN
SarudSarud TISZAFÜREDTISZAFÜRED HORTOBÁGYHORTOBÁGY
BudapestBudapest JÁSZBERÉNYJÁSZBERÉNY KisköreKisköre NATIONALNATIONAL
AbadszalókAbadszalók PARKPARK HAJDÚSZOBOSZLÓHAJDÚSZOBOSZLÓ
NagykátaNagykáta JÁSZ- NAGYKUNJÁSZ- NAGYKUN HAJDÚ-BIHARHAJDÚ-BIHAR
PESTPEST Zagyva -SZOLNOK-SZOLNOK PüspökladányPüspökladány
Zagyva
AlbertirsaAlbertirsa
AbonyAbony KisújszállásKisújszállás BerettyóújfaluBerettyóújfalu
BudapestBudapest
Berettyó
CeglédCegléd Berettyó
SZOLNOKSZOLNOK TúrkeveTúrkeve
The breathtaking “Puszta Fiver”, at Bugac BudapestBudapest The dome in the New Synagogue in Szeged,
MezőtúrMezőtúr SzeghalomSzeghalom
LajosmizseLajosmizse a stunning Secessionist building
TiszaföldvárTiszaföldvár GyomaendrődGyomaendrőd
Körös
Getting Around FülöpházaFülöpháza KECSKEMÉTKECSKEMÉT Körös BÉKÉSBÉKÉS
The Great Plain is not easily KaposvárKaposvár BÁCS-KISKUNBÁCS-KISKUN SzarvasSzarvas Sights at a Glance
accessible by public transport, and KISKUNSÁGIKISKUNSÁGI KISKUNFÉLEGYHÁZAKISKUNFÉLEGYHÁZA BékésBékés SarkadSarkad
to get the best out of this region NATIONALNATIONAL CsongrádCsongrád GYULAGYULA 1 Baja
visitors are advised to travel by car. PARKPARK BugacBugac BékéscsabaBékéscsaba 2 Hajós
The major cities are, of course, well KiskőrösKiskőrös Tisza Tisza 3 Kalocsa
served by train from Budapest, Danube(Duna) Danube(Duna) CSON-CSON- OrosházaOrosháza 4 Kiskunsági National Park
especially Debrecen (the journey KALOCSAKALOCSA ÓPUSZTASZERÓPUSZTASZER GRÁDGRÁD 5 Kecskemét pp240–43
takes around 2 hours). Debrecen 6 Kiskunfélegyháza
also makes an excellent base for KiskunhalasKiskunhalas HÓDMEZŐ-HÓDMEZŐ- 7 Szeged pp246–7
exploring much of the northern part HAJÓSHAJÓS VÁSÁRHELYVÁSÁRHELY 8 Ópusztaszer National Historical
of the plain, including Hortobágy SzekszárdSzekszárd Memorial Park
National Park and Tisza Lake. JánoshalmaJánoshalma SZEGEDSZEGED Maros MakóMakó 9 Hódmezővásárhely
Maros
BAJABAJA MórahalomMórahalom 0 Gyula
q Szolnok
w Jászberény
Key e Tiszafüred
t Debrecen pp254–5
Motorway
y Hajdúszoboszló
Major road u Hortobágy & Hortobágy
Secondary road National Park
Minor road i Nyíregyháza pp258–9
Main railway o Máriapócs
Minor railway 0 kilometres 30 p Nyírbátor
a Csaroda
International border 0 miles 30
s Szatmárcseke
Regional border
Tour
Puszta buffaloes enjoying a mud bath at Hortobágy National Park r Lake Tisza pp252–3
For hotels and restaurants see pp264–269 and pp276–285 For keys to map symbols see back flap
236-237_EW_Hungary.indd 236 18/09/17 3:41 pm 236-237_EW_Hungary.indd 237 18/09/17 3:41 pm

THE GREA T PLAIN  237








Kisvárda
CSARODA
SZABOLCS
Tokaj Tisza SZATMÁRCSEKE
-SZATMÁR-BEREG
Mátészalka Túristvándi
Tiszavasvári NYÍREGYHÁZA Szamos
MÁRIAPÓCS
NYÍRBÁTOR
Miskolc Hajdúnánás
TISZA Hajdúböszörmény
LAKE
Hatvan HORTOBÁGY
Eger DEBRECEN
Sarud TISZAFÜRED HORTOBÁGY
Budapest JÁSZBERÉNY Kisköre NATIONAL
Abadszalók PARK HAJDÚSZOBOSZLÓ
Nagykáta JÁSZ- NAGYKUN HAJDÚ-BIHAR
PEST Zagyva -SZOLNOK Püspökladány
Albertirsa
Abony Kisújszállás Berettyóújfalu
Budapest
Cegléd Berettyó
SZOLNOK Túrkeve
Budapest The dome in the New Synagogue in Szeged,
Mezőtúr Szeghalom
Lajosmizse a stunning Secessionist building
Tiszaföldvár Gyomaendrőd
Fülöpháza KECSKEMÉT Körös BÉKÉS
BÁCS-KISKUN Szarvas
Kaposvár Sights at a Glance
Sarkad
KISKUNSÁGI KISKUNFÉLEGYHÁZA Békés GYULA 1 Baja
NATIONAL
Danube(Duna) KALOCSA Kiskőrös Bugac CSON- Orosháza 3 Kalocsa
Csongrád
2 Hajós
PARK
Békéscsaba
Tisza
4 Kiskunsági National Park
5 Kecskemét pp240–43
GRÁD
ÓPUSZTASZER
7 Szeged pp246–7
Kiskunhalas HÓDMEZŐ- 6 Kiskunfélegyháza
HAJÓS VÁSÁRHELY 8 Ópusztaszer National Historical
Szekszárd Memorial Park
Jánoshalma
SZEGED Maros Makó 9 Hódmezővásárhely
BAJA Mórahalom 0 Gyula
q Szolnok
w Jászberény
e Tiszafüred
t Debrecen pp254–5
y Hajdúszoboszló
u Hortobágy & Hortobágy
National Park
i Nyíregyháza pp258–9
o Máriapócs
p Nyírbátor
a Csaroda
s Szatmárcseke
Tour
Puszta buffaloes enjoying a mud bath at Hortobágy National Park r Lake Tisza pp252–3
For keys to map symbols see back flap
236-237_EW_Hungary.indd 237 18/09/17 3:41 pm

238  HUNGAR Y REGION B Y REGION THE GREA T PLAIN  239


almost all the houses remain manuscripts, codices and books, way into the park is via
occupied today. However, many the earliest dating from 1040. Nagybugac. This village is a
are used only as summer or At the House of Folk Arts worthy attraction in itself,
holi day homes. Others offer wine (Népművészeti Tájház), the local with its fascinating horse­riding
tasting and accommodation. craft society displays and sells displays. The Bugac Stud Farm
The St Orbán Wine Festival its colourful wares in a (Bugaci Ménes) just outside
in May, celebrated to honour traditional Puszta cottage. the village puts on daily shows.
the guardian saint of grape These may, however, be
growers and winemakers, is E Paprika Museum cancelled if there are too few
the village’s annual highlight. Szent István király út 6. Tel (78) 46 18 spectators; it is best to book
As many as 20,000 visitors 60. Open Apr–Oct: 9am–5pm Tue– an organized tour (www.
attend the wine tastings, horse Sun. & 8 Hun garian only. 7 bugacpuszta.hu). Not to be
shows, craft markets and folk E House of Folk Arts missed are the per formances
dancing displays. Tompa Mihály utca 5–7. Tel (78) 46 of the legendary Puszta Fiver,
15 60. Open mid­Apr–mid­Oct: where one man – usually with One of many birdwatching towers
3 Kalocsa 10am–5pm Tue–Sun. & a moustache as long as his whip in Kiskunság National Park
The Fish Soup Festival in Baja, a record-breaking soup-cooking contest 8 Hungarian only. 7 – rides five horses simultaneously
1 Baja The beaches on Petőfisziget, 120 km (74 miles) south of Budapest. (see box below). Visitors can ride great bustards, herons and
spoonbills can be seen. The
one of the many thoroughbreds
Road Map C5. * 19,000. £ from
the island in the middle of the Kiskőrös. @ from Budapest, Kiskőrös. at the stables themselves, and unparalleled flora and fauna in
100 km (62 miles) west of Szeged.
Road Map C5. * 36,000. £ from Danube, serve as Baja’s summer 4 Danube cruisers. ( daily. join a day­long horseback­tour the reeds and marshes around
Budapest. @ from Budapest, Kalocsa. playground, offering sailing, _ Kalocsa Paprika Festival (mid-Sep). of the surrounding area. the lake include rare species of
n Tourinform, Szent háromság tér 5, water-skiing, fishing and other Nagybugac’s tiny Herds men’s orchid, as well as otters, weasels,
(79) 42 07 92. ( fish market Tue–Sun. leisure activities. The island is A popular stop for Danube Museum (Bugaci Pásztor­ water snakes, turtles and lizards.
_ Fish Soup Festival (Bajai Halfőző reached via a foot bridge from cruise ships, Kalocsa is at the múzeum) exhibits a small The Fülöp háza with its
Fesztivál, 2nd weekend in Jul). Szentháromság tér. centre of Hungary’s paprika- collection of folk art, costumes shifting sand dunes is a unique
growing region. There is a and tools but most visitors to environment in the park and
This wealthy town, long E Türr István Museum paprika harvest festival here Nagybugac are merely passing is the habitat of hoopoes,
populated by a large Serb Deák Ferenc utca 1. Tel (79) 32 41 every September and what through on their way to the golden orioles and bee­eaters.
minority, is dominated by 73. Open 10am–4pm Tue–Sat. & is perhaps the world’s only park. The village is the gateway Trails around the dunes begin at
its large public square, 8 7 ∑ bajaimuzeum.hu Paprika Museum (Fűszer paprika to the largest area of the park, the village of Fülöp háza, 30 km
Szenthár omság tér, one side Mú zeum). On display are jars the Bugac – a vast 100­sq­km (19 miles) west of Kecskemét.
of which opens onto the 2 Hajós of the spice, in an astonishing Early machinery at the Paprika Museum (39­sq­mile) expanse of grass­
Danube. Baroque 18th-century number of different varieties. in Kalocsa land, marshes, freshwater lakes G Bugac Stud Farm
town houses, one of which 21 km (13 miles) southeast of Kalocsa. One of the most important and reeds. A number of well­ Nagybugac Ménes. Tel (76) 57 50 28.
is now the town hall, line the Road Map D5. * 3,600. @ from buildings in Kalocsa is the marked nature trails start at Open daily. & 7 for horse shows, it
other three sides. The square Kalocsa. ( craft market during the cathedral, a twin-towered 4 Kiskunság the park entrance. is advisable to book in advance with
plays host every July to the St Orbán Wine Festival. _ St Orbán Baroque construction from National Park Birdwatchers should head Herdsmen’s Museum.
unique Baja Fish Soup Festival, Wine Festival (last weekend in May). 1772, restored slightly after a Kiskunsági Nemzeti Park for Lake Kolon, northwest of E Herdsmen’s Museum
when hundreds of cauldrons small fire in 1816. Ferenc (Franz) the Bugac and accessible Nagybugac, Tel (76) 57 51 12.
are set up to cook the local fish In the small village of Hajós, Liszt adored the cathedral’s 25 km (16 miles) west of Kecskemét. via the village of Izsák, where Open May–Oct: 10am–6pm daily. &
stew, consisting of freshwater 1,200 tiny 18th-century houses, organ and often played here. Road Map D4. National Park Head­
quarters, House of Nature, Liszt Ferenc
fish and a very hot paprika. almost identical in size and The town owes its existence utca 19, Kecskemét, (76) 48 226 11. Csikós Horse Shows
The Türr István Museum just design, sit above 1,200 iden tical to St István, who created an Open 10am–4pm Tue–Sat. £ from
north of the square con tains wine cellars dug into the soft arch bishopric here in 1006. Kiskunfélegyháza to Bugac­felső; from The equine skill of the Hungarian cowboys (or csikósok; also csikós
a lively collection of exhibits clay below. Built by Swabians, The Archbishop’s Palace (built Kecskemét to Izsák for Lake Kolon. meaning “wrangler”), goes back as far as the first Magyar migrations
cele brating the role of the a Germanic people who settled in 1776 on the site of a medi eval @ from Kis kunféle gyháza to Bugac and was originally military in nature. The Hungarian mounted soldier
Danube in Baja’s history. Just here in the Middle Ages in order castle) today houses an amazing park entrance; from Kecskemét to typically carried light weapons and rode light horses without a saddle.
opposite stands a magnificent to make use of the fertile soil, collection of 100,000 Fülöpháza. n Tourin form Kecskemét, Today’s csikós shows contain much
Baroque Franciscan church, Kossuth tér 1, Kecskemét, (76) 48 10 65. pseudo­military posturing, usually
complete with a superb bell & 7 0 - = ∑ knp.hu beginning with a horse parade and
tower, built in 1756. salute, followed by displays of eques­
trian skill, control and dressage. What
North of the city centre is the Kiskunság is Hungary’s is unusual is the way the csikósok
late 19th-century Neo-Classical second­largest national park can make their horses walk at
Synagogue. Now a public after Hortobágy (see 256). Spread almost a crawl: a legacy of fighting
library, the Hebrew script above over 759 sq km (293 sq miles), battles in the open plains. The
the portico is one of few clues the park is divided into a highlight of these horse shows is
to its past. On Miklós utca stands number of unique natural the Puszta Fiver (pusztaötös): one
the Serb Orthodox church, habitats, which are not all man riding five horses simultan­
built at the end of the 18th interlinked. A visit to the park’s eously. The Fiver’s origins are
century and housing probably adminis tration office, in the unknown – perhaps the rider was
Hungary’s finest Orthodox Kecskemét (see pp240–43) bringing back the horses of his A horseman practising for the
iconostasis. Some 10 m (33 ft) House of Nature enables visitors dead comrades after a battle. impressive Puszta Fiver
tall, it depict s countless saints. The many small houses with wine cellars in Hajós to get their bearings. A popular
For hotels and restaurants see pp264–269 and pp276–285
238-239_EW_Hungary.indd 238 18/09/17 3:41 pm 238-239_EW_Hungary.indd 239 18/09/17 3:41 pm

THE GREA T PLAIN  239


manuscripts, codices and books, way into the park is via
the earliest dating from 1040. Nagybugac. This village is a
At the House of Folk Arts worthy attraction in itself,
(Népművészeti Tájház), the local with its fascinating horse­riding
craft society displays and sells displays. The Bugac Stud Farm
its colourful wares in a (Bugaci Ménes) just outside
traditional Puszta cottage. the village puts on daily shows.
These may, however, be
E Paprika Museum cancelled if there are too few
Szent István király út 6. Tel (78) 46 18 spectators; it is best to book
60. Open Apr–Oct: 9am–5pm Tue– an organized tour (www.
Sun. & 8 Hun garian only. 7 bugacpuszta.hu). Not to be
E House of Folk Arts missed are the per formances
Tompa Mihály utca 5–7. Tel (78) 46 of the legendary Puszta Fiver,
15 60. Open mid­Apr–mid­Oct: where one man – usually with One of many birdwatching towers
10am–5pm Tue–Sun. & a moustache as long as his whip in Kiskunság National Park
8 Hungarian only. 7 – rides five horses simultaneously
(see box below). Visitors can ride great bustards, herons and
one of the many thoroughbreds spoonbills can be seen. The
at the stables themselves, and unparalleled flora and fauna in
join a day­long horseback­tour the reeds and marshes around
of the surrounding area. the lake include rare species of
Nagybugac’s tiny Herds men’s orchid, as well as otters, weasels,
Museum (Bugaci Pásztor­ water snakes, turtles and lizards.
múzeum) exhibits a small The Fülöp háza with its
collection of folk art, costumes shifting sand dunes is a unique
and tools but most visitors to environment in the park and
Nagybugac are merely passing is the habitat of hoopoes,
through on their way to the golden orioles and bee­eaters.
park. The village is the gateway Trails around the dunes begin at
to the largest area of the park, the village of Fülöp háza, 30 km
the Bugac – a vast 100­sq­km (19 miles) west of Kecskemét.
Early machinery at the Paprika Museum (39­sq­mile) expanse of grass­
in Kalocsa land, marshes, freshwater lakes G Bugac Stud Farm
and reeds. A number of well­ Nagybugac Ménes. Tel (76) 57 50 28.
marked nature trails start at Open daily. & 7 for horse shows, it
4 Kiskunság the park entrance. is advisable to book in advance with
National Park Birdwatchers should head Herdsmen’s Museum.
Kiskunsági Nemzeti Park for Lake Kolon, northwest of E Herdsmen’s Museum
the Bugac and accessible Nagybugac, Tel (76) 57 51 12.
25 km (16 miles) west of Kecskemét. via the village of Izsák, where Open May–Oct: 10am–6pm daily. &
Road Map D4. National Park Head­
quarters, House of Nature, Liszt Ferenc
utca 19, Kecskemét, (76) 48 226 11. Csikós Horse Shows
Open 10am–4pm Tue–Sat. £ from
Kiskunfélegyháza to Bugac­felső; from The equine skill of the Hungarian cowboys (or csikósok; also csikós
Kecskemét to Izsák for Lake Kolon. meaning “wrangler”), goes back as far as the first Magyar migrations
@ from Kis kunféle gyháza to Bugac and was originally military in nature. The Hungarian mounted soldier
park entrance; from Kecskemét to typically carried light weapons and rode light horses without a saddle.
Fülöpháza. n Tourin form Kecskemét, Today’s csikós shows contain much
Kossuth tér 1, Kecskemét, (76) 48 10 65. pseudo­military posturing, usually
& 7 0 - = ∑ knp.hu beginning with a horse parade and
salute, followed by displays of eques­
trian skill, control and dressage. What
Kiskunság is Hungary’s is unusual is the way the csikósok
second­largest national park can make their horses walk at
after Hortobágy (see 256). Spread almost a crawl: a legacy of fighting
over 759 sq km (293 sq miles), battles in the open plains. The
the park is divided into a highlight of these horse shows is
number of unique natural the Puszta Fiver (pusztaötös): one
habitats, which are not all man riding five horses simultan­
interlinked. A visit to the park’s eously. The Fiver’s origins are
adminis tration office, in the unknown – perhaps the rider was
Kecskemét (see pp240–43) bringing back the horses of his A horseman practising for the
House of Nature enables visitors dead comrades after a battle. impressive Puszta Fiver
to get their bearings. A popular




238-239_EW_Hungary.indd 239 18/09/17 3:41 pm

240  HUNGAR Y REGION B Y REGION KECSKEMÉ T  241

5 Kecskemét R Old Catholic Church E Zwack Pálinka VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Nagytemplom Manufactory (Fruit
The town of Kecskemét dates back to 1368, though little Kossuth tér 2. Tel (76) 48 75 01. Brandy Distillery and Practical Information
of that era remains today. Kecskemét benefited from Open noon–7pm Mon, 6am–7pm Exhibition) Road Map D4. * 105,000.
Tue–Sun. & 7
n Tourin form, Kossuth tér 1, (76)
self-government during Turkish rule, and the Habs burgs Matkói utca 2. Tel (76) 48 77 11, or 48 10 65. ( Mon–Fri; Sat am
(20) 519 22 79. Open 10am–6pm
encouraged the development of agriculture in the region, The Old Catholic Church was Mon–Fri, by appointment only. & in summer only. _ Hirös Hét
built in 1774–99. Its spire rises
often termed the “Garden of Hungary”. One local product to 73 m (240 ft); its clockface is 8 compulsory. Festival (Jun); Zoltan Kodály
is the apricot, which is the source of a delicious brandy. the largest in Hungary, and the The Hungarian market leader Classical Music Festival (Jul–Aug);
An earthquake in June 1911 shook the city, but the clock’s works among the oldest. in pálinka (fruit brandy), the World Pairs Driving Championship
(Aug). ∑ kecskemet.hu
outstanding Baroque and Secessionist city centre was The Baroque exterior features factory of the Zwack Unicum
mercifully spared. Home to some great museums, statues and reliefs of figures Display of mechanical toys in the Toy Company offers a fascinating Transport
£ @ Kodály Zoltán tér; regular
Museum and Workshop
insight into the world of alcohol
from Hun garian history. Inside,
Kecskemét is a superb place to explore. services throughout the day from
grand steps lead up to the pulpit. distillation. Visitors can see
E Szórakaténusz Toy how the pálinka is made – Budapest. £ Narrow Gauge,
Museum and Workshop before tasting it – as well Széchenyi tér.
R Piarist Church & School outstanding. An art gallery Szórakaténusz Játékmúzeum as learning about the life of
Piarista Templom & Rendház since World War II, the palace és Műhely the Zwack family. The plant is
Jókai utca 1. Tel (76) 48 16 03. holds over 10,000 works, and Gáspár András utca 11. Tel (76) 48 14 open only for groups; Tourinform 200 years. Opened to the public
Open Church: by appointment. exhibitions on the Secessionist 69. Open 10am–12:30pm & 1–5pm will provide information on in 1984 as the Museum of
The Piarists are a relatively architects Tóth and Glücks. Tue–Sat. & = where and when to join one. Popular Folk Art, the permanent
progressive, scientific Catholic Next to the Museum of Hungarian collection expanded rapidly
order founded in Rome in 1617 E Hungarian Photography Naïve Art is this children’s paradise, and now covers woodcarving,
by St Joseph Calasanc tius. They Museum housed in a wooden building. E Collection of Applied pottery, embroidery and
arrived in Kecskemét in 1715 and Magyar Fotográfiai Múzeum There are displays of Hungarian Folk Art weaving. There are workshops
founded the school on Jókai utca, Katona József tér 12. Tel (76) 48 toys from the 18th century to the Népi Iparművészeti Múzeum on site where visitors can watch
which still operates to this present 32 21. Open noon–5pm Tue–Sat. present, with dolls and wooden Serfőző utca 19. Tel (76) 32 72 03. and then try embroidering
day. (The present, bland school Closed public holidays. & 7 toys taking pride of place. Older Open 10am–4pm Tue–Sat or by a waistcoat or tablecloth
building, however, was built in ∑ fotomuzeum.hu Room in the Museum of Medicinal and children will enjoy the mechanical appointment. & 8 Hungarian themselves, before tasting
the late 1940s.) The Baro que This outstanding museum, Pharmaceutical History toys that were consid ered state of only. 7 local specialities fresh from the
church opposite was erected housed in a splendid the art in the 1950s. There are also This vast and enchanting traditional ovens. The workshops
between 1729 and 1765, to 18th-century mansion, formerly E Museum of Medicinal and interactive toy work shops for building and garden was and kitchen are open only on
designs by Andreas Mayerhoffer. the horse-changing station Pharmaceutical History children during the sum mer. formerly a brewery for nearly selected days in the summer.
St Joseph Cala sanctius is repre- of the Pest–Szeged mail-coach Orvos- és Gyógyszertörténeti
sented by one of four statues route and a synagogue, Gyűjtemény
on the front of the building, displays the work of every Kölcsey utca 3. Tel (76) 32 99 64. Kecskemét City Centre
alongside the Virgin Mary and great Hungarian photographer, Open May–Oct: 10am–2pm Tue–Sun; 1 Piarist Church and School Piarist Church
Saints István and László. including André Kertész and Nov–Apr: by appointment. & 7 2 Cifra Palace JÓ KA I UTCA and School Train Station
300 m (330 yards)
László Moholy-Nagy. There Although this museum has 3 Hungarian Photography PIARISTÁK Bus Station
250 m (270 yards)
P Cifra Palace are regular exhibitions by a small collection, consisting Museum F RÁTE R G Y ÖRG Y UT C A TERE NAGYKŐRŐSI UTCA
Cifrapalota international artists, and mainly of some colourful 4 József Katona Theatre and Synagogue
Rákóczi út 1. Tel (76) 48 07 76. the attached photography medicine bottles, old surgical Holy Trinity Monument LU T H ER K Ö Z R ÁKÓ CZ I Ú T
Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sun. & 7 bookshop is one of the best. instruments and various KÁP OLN A UTCA HORNYIK J. KRT
K O H ÁRY K Ö R ÚT
This Secessionist masterpiece, reference works, it is housed 5 Old Catholic Church AR A N Y J. U T CA Lutheran Palace K L APK A U T CA
Cifra
Church
completed in 1902, is the work P József Katona Theatre inside a superb build ing, itself 6 Museum of Medicinal and
of architect Géza Márkus. The and Holy Trinity Monument once a phar macy, and seeing Pharmaceutical History SIMO NY I U TC A Local Bus SZABADSÁG CSÁNYI J. KÖRÚT
TÉR
Station
Calvinist
green and orange tiled roof is Katona József tér 5. that alone is well worth the 7 Museum of Hungarian Naïve Art SZÉCHENYI New College
Tel (76) 50 11 70. Open for small entrance fee. 8 Szórakaténusz Toy Museum GÁ S PÁ R AN DRÁS KÖRÚT TÉR Calvinist
performances only. 7 ^ and Workshop C S ÁNYI UTCA Old KOSSUTH Church KALVIN
Catholic
This Neo-Baroque theatre was E Museum of Hungarian 9 Zwack Fruit Brandy Distillery Church TÉR TÉR
the creation of Austrian archi- Naïve Art and Exhibition Museum of Medicinal
tects Ferdinand Fellner and Magyar Naiv Művészek Múzeuma 0 Collection of Applied and Pharmaceutical Town KETTEMPLOM KOZ A
History
Hall
Hermann Helmer. Completed Gáspár András utca 11. Tel (76) 32 47 Folk Art L ECHN ER Ö DÖ N UT C A St Michael’s
in 1896, it was named after 67. Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sat. & 8 Museum of Church
Kecskemét’s play wright son, This charming museum is Hungarian PE T ŐFI S A N D OR UT CA KATONA JÓZSEF Hungarian
TÉR
Photography
K ÖLCS E Y U T C A
József Katona
József Katona. It is as impres- devoted to contemporary and Naïve Art F E ST Ő UTC A Theatre and Holy BAJCSY- Z SILINSZKY UTC Museum
sive inside as out; the ceiling earlier local Naïve artists who Trinity Monument
in particular is worth attending produced some stunning work. Szórakaténusz Toy
Museum
a performance for. The Holy Unique in Hungary, the museum 0 metres 100 and Workshop KI S FA LU DY UT C A
Trinity Monument in front of provides a thorough survey of Zwack Fruit D OB O I S T VÁ N K Ö RÚ T B ATT H YA N Y UT C A TR O M B ITA U TC A
Brandy Distillery
and Exhibition
the theatre was erected to offer the genre: there are more than 0 yards 100
thanks after the passing of the 2,500 exhibits on display, with Key Collection of D A MJ A NI C H U TC A
Applied Folk Art
most recent outbreak of plague, the collection of small animal Narrow Gauge
The Secessionist Cifra Palace in 1742. sculptures a special highlight. Street by Street pp242–3 Train Station
For hotels and restaurants see pp264–269 and pp276–285 For keys to map symbols see back flap
240-241_EW_Hungary.indd 240 18/09/17 3:41 pm 240-241_EW_Hungary.indd 241 18/09/17 3:41 pm

KECSKEMÉ T  241


E Zwack Pálinka VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Manufactory (Fruit
Brandy Distillery and Practical Information
Exhibition) Road Map D4. * 105,000.
Matkói utca 2. Tel (76) 48 77 11, or n Tourin form, Kossuth tér 1, (76)
(20) 519 22 79. Open 10am–6pm 48 10 65. ( Mon–Fri; Sat am
Mon–Fri, by appointment only. & in summer only. _ Hirös Hét
8 compulsory. Festival (Jun); Zoltan Kodály
The Hungarian market leader Classical Music Festival (Jul–Aug);
in pálinka (fruit brandy), the World Pairs Driving Championship
(Aug). ∑ kecskemet.hu
factory of the Zwack Unicum
Display of mechanical toys in the Toy Company offers a fascinating Transport
Museum and Workshop insight into the world of alcohol £ @ Kodály Zoltán tér; regular
distillation. Visitors can see services throughout the day from
E Szórakaténusz Toy how the pálinka is made – Budapest. £ Narrow Gauge,
Museum and Workshop before tasting it – as well Széchenyi tér.
Szórakaténusz Játékmúzeum as learning about the life of
és Műhely the Zwack family. The plant is
Gáspár András utca 11. Tel (76) 48 14 open only for groups; Tourinform 200 years. Opened to the public
69. Open 10am–12:30pm & 1–5pm will provide information on in 1984 as the Museum of
Tue–Sat. & = where and when to join one. Popular Folk Art, the permanent
Next to the Museum of Hungarian collection expanded rapidly
Naïve Art is this children’s paradise, and now covers woodcarving,
housed in a wooden building. E Collection of Applied pottery, embroidery and
There are displays of Hungarian Folk Art weaving. There are workshops
toys from the 18th century to the Népi Iparművészeti Múzeum on site where visitors can watch
present, with dolls and wooden Serfőző utca 19. Tel (76) 32 72 03. and then try embroidering
toys taking pride of place. Older Open 10am–4pm Tue–Sat or by a waistcoat or tablecloth
children will enjoy the mechanical appointment. & 8 Hungarian themselves, before tasting
toys that were consid ered state of only. 7 local specialities fresh from the
the art in the 1950s. There are also This vast and enchanting traditional ovens. The workshops
interactive toy work shops for building and garden was and kitchen are open only on
children during the sum mer. formerly a brewery for nearly selected days in the summer.

Kecskemét City Centre
1 Piarist Church and School Piarist Church Train Station
2 Cifra Palace JÓ KA I UTCA and School 300 m (330 yards)
Bus Station
3 Hungarian Photography PIARISTÁK NAGYKŐRŐSI UTCA 250 m (270 yards)
TERE
Museum F RÁTER G Y ÖRG Y UT C A
Synagogue
4 József Katona Theatre and K O H ÁRY K Ö R ÚT
Holy Trinity Monument KÁP OLN A UTCA HORNYIK J. KRT LU T H ER K Ö Z R ÁKÓ CZ I Ú T
5 Old Catholic Church Lutheran Cifra
6 Museum of Medicinal and AR A N Y J. U T CA Church Palace K L APK A U T CA
Pharmaceutical History SIMO NY I U TC A SZABADSÁG CSÁNYI J. KÖRÚT
7 Museum of Hungarian Naïve Art Local Bus TÉR Calvinist
Station
8 Szórakaténusz Toy Museum GÁ S PÁ R AN DRÁS KÖRÚT SZÉCHENYI Calvinist New College
TÉR
Old
and Workshop Catholic Church
9 Zwack Fruit Brandy Distillery C S ÁNYI UTCA Church KOSSUTH KALVIN
TÉR
TÉR
and Exhibition Museum of Medicinal
0 Collection of Applied and Pharmaceutical Town KETTEMPLOM KOZ A
History
Hall
Folk Art L ECHN ER Ö DÖ N UT C A St Michael’s
Church
Museum of
Hungarian PE T ŐFI S A N DOR UT CA KATONA JÓZSEF Hungarian
Naïve Art F E ST Ő UTC A Theatre and Holy TÉR BAJCSY- Z SILINSZKY UTC Photography
K ÖLCS E Y U T C A
József Katona
Museum
KIS FA LU DY UT C A
Szórakaténusz Toy Trinity Monument
Museum
and Workshop
0 metres 100 Zwack Fruit D OB O I S T VÁ N K Ö RÚ T
Brandy Distillery
0 yards 100 and Exhibition B ATT H YA N Y UT C A TR O M B ITA U TC A
Collection of D A MJ A NI C H U TC A
Key Applied Folk Art
Narrow Gauge
Street by Street pp242–3 Train Station
For keys to map symbols see back flap
240-241_EW_Hungary.indd 241 18/09/17 3:41 pm

242  HUNGAR Y REGION B Y REGION KECSKEMÉ T  243

Street-by-Street: Around Kossuth tér . Synagogue
Abandoned in 1945
when Kecskemét’s remaining
At the heart of Kecskemét there are edifices of different Lutheran Church Jews were forced to flee the city,
Now hemmed in on three sides
eras, designs, religions and cultures. Few public squares by surrounding buildings, this glorious Baroque buil ding is
in Europe are surrounded by all of these: Roman this church was designed today known as the House of
Catholic, Franciscan, Calvinist and Jewish places of by Miklós Ybl (see p93), but Science and Technology. It
worship; fewer still are those with Art Nouveau built to a simplified S I has been converted into a
conference centre
plan in 1862–3.
masterpieces on all sides. Even the mo dern Inside stands a R Ő exhibiting replicas of
Aranyhomok Hotel – which would be little Romantic altar by K Ő Michelangelo
more than a dreary box in most city squares – József Gaál. G Y sculptures.
adds something to the eclectic Kecskemét N A
mix. Large enough to take the summer visitor
crowds with ease, the twin Kossuth and Mátyás
Szabadság squares bustle with life from Pharmacy
morning until late.
Great Catholic Church R A K O C Z I Ú T
Kecskemét’s pride, the Neo-Baroque tower
– topped with a small golden dome – can
be climbed for superb views of the city. K O H Á R Y K Ö R Ú T

Aranyhomok A R A N Y J . U T C A
Hotel K L A P K A U T C A
S Z A B A D S Á G T É R R . Ornamental Palace
S Z A B A D S Á G T É

Built as a private home
in 1902, and covered in
brightly coloured
K Á P O L N A U T C A
K Ö R Ú T
C S Á N Y I J .
arabesques, the Cifra
Palota hosts exhibitions
of the City Art Gallery.
K AL VIN
K OSSUTH TÉR
TÉR Calvinist
New College
This imposing
build ing from 1912 is
still a college today, but a
part is given over to an
exhibition of Calvinist
K E T T E M P L O M K O Z
ecclesiastical art and history.



Zoltán Kodály
. Town Hall Institute of Music
Bold in pink and yellow, this 0 metres 40 Education
masterpiece was erected in 1891,
when the Secessionist movement 0 yards 40
was in full swing.
Calvinist Church Franciscan Church
The Turks allowed this stone church While this is the oldest church
to be built in 1684, after a Catholic in the city, dating from the
Key mob had burned down a wooden 14th century, the Baroque
church during the Counter- tower and interior frescoes
Suggested route
Reformation in 1678. date from the 1790s.
For hotels and restaurants see pp264–269 and pp276–285


Hun_242-243_SS.indd 242 17/02/2015 12:46 Hun_242-243_SS.indd 243 17/02/2015 12:46

KECSKEMÉ T  243


. Synagogue
Abandoned in 1945
when Kecskemét’s remaining
Jews were forced to flee the city,
this glorious Baroque buil ding is
today known as the House of
Science and Technology. It
I has been converted into a
S
Ő conference centre
R exhibiting replicas of
K Ő Michelangelo
Y sculptures.
G
A
N


R A K O C Z I Ú T




K O H Á R Y K Ö R Ú T

S Z A B A D S Á G T É R K L A P K A U T C A . Ornamental Palace


Built as a private home
in 1902, and covered in
brightly coloured
K Ö R Ú T
C S Á N Y I J .
arabesques, the Cifra
Palota hosts exhibitions
of the City Art Gallery.
K AL VIN
TÉR
Calvinist
New College
This imposing
build ing from 1912 is
still a college today, but a
part is given over to an
exhibition of Calvinist
K E T T E M P L O M K O Z
ecclesiastical art and history.




Zoltán Kodály
Institute of Music
Education


Franciscan Church
While this is the oldest church
in the city, dating from the
14th century, the Baroque
tower and interior frescoes
date from the 1790s.




Hun_242-243_SS.indd 243 17/02/2015 12:46

244  HUNGAR Y REGION B Y REGION THE GREA T PLAIN  245


8 Ópusztaszer Ethno graphic Museum Budapest. The city’s substantial
National Historical comprising some 19th-century castle was built by St István
Memorial Park houses, wind mills, farm houses in 1075 but sacked first by the
and workshops from the local
Mongols, then by the Turks, so
Ópusztaszeri Nemzeti Történeti area. In summer the work shops that nothing remains of it today.
Emlékpark demonstrate various folk crafts, The most important historical
31 km (19 miles) north of Szeged. and much of what is produced monument in the city now, a
Road Map E5. £ to Kistelek, then is sold. To the left of the short walk west of the centre, is
coach. @ from Kistelek, local bus museum stand tents known the Baroque Francis can church,
from Ópusztaszer. n Tourinform, as yurts. built in 1727–54. On the way
Szo bor kert 68, Ópusz taszer, (62) 27 51 The Feszty Panorama, an is the former synagogue at
33. Open Apr–Oct: 10am–6pm Tue– astonishingly detailed Gyula Castle, almost intact after many years of Turkish rule Templom utca 2, a Seces sionist
Sun; Nov–Mar: 10am–4pm Tue–Sun. depiction of the Magyar building, restored in the 1950s.
Feszty Panorama: Open guided tours migration onto the Great Plain, of the event is based on Kossuth of Hungary’s best thermal bath Also worth a visit is the János
Decorative detail of the Town Hall roof only. Tel (62) 27 52 57. & 7 - = can be seen here. The 120-m- tér, a large pedestrianized complexes. The mansion also Damjanich Museum, north of
in Kiskunfélegyháza ∑ opusztaszer.hu (394-ft-) long painting, created square. Here stands the large features an exhibi tion on every- the centre. Named after the
6 Kiskunfélegyháza According to legend it was on by 24 artists in 1892–4, was Secessionist Town Hall, whose day life – and life as a servant – in general who led the Hungarians
a Hungarian mansion.
badly damaged in World War II
tower can be climbed. The
to victory over the Habsburgs in
28 km (18 miles) south of Kecs kemét. this site in 896 that the Magyar but has been restored and can building next door (formerly a Another attraction is the the Battle of Szolnok in 1849, it
Road Map D4. * 30,000. £ from clan chiefs made their blood be viewed by appointment. school) now houses the Alföld charming Százéves, Hungary’s exhibits folk art, archaeological
Kecskemét, Budapest. @ from pact and chose Árpád as their Gallery, which exhibits the second-oldest café, which items, and work by the Szolnok
Kecskemét, Budapest. single leader. The enormous work of Great Plain artists, for opened in 1840. Ferenc Erkel, Artists Colony.
Neo-Classical Árpád Memorial, 9 Hódmezővásár­ example, József Koszta, Gyula who composed grand operas
Kiskunfélegyháza has a Roman erected in 1896 for Hun gary’s hely Rudnay and Vilmos Aba-Novák. and the Hungarian national
Catholic church and a regional Millennium Celebrations (see The enormous New Calvinist anthem, was born in the house
museum, but the Secessionist p108), commemorates the event. 25 km (15 miles) northeast of Szeged. church is impressive but a fair at Apor Vilmos tér 7. It now has
Town Hall is really the only Before that, a monastery stood Road Map E5. * 45,000. £ from walk east along Andrássy utca. a small museum dedicated to
sight worth seeing in this here, from perhaps the 12th Szeged. @ from Szeged. Andrassy Opposite is a superb Secession- his life and work.
southern town. It is truly century (its ruins can still be seen), út, Kossuth tér. n Tourinform, ist synagogue (1903), with an
outstanding. Com pleted in and it may have been a pagan Szőnyi utca 1, (62) 24 93 50. exhibition dedicated to those
_ Agricultural Festival (end Apr);
1912, it is some thing of a high- burial ground earlier still. In 1945, St István’s Day (20 Aug). killed in the Holocaust. It often q Szolnok
water mark for Secessionist this historic site was chosen by hosts official com mem orative 100 km (59 miles) east of Budapest.
archi tecture. Designed by the Com munists to announce One of the oldest settle ments events on Holocaust Day. Road Map E4. * 73,000. £ @ n
József Vass and Nándor their agri cultural collectivization in Hungary, the small city of Tourinform, Hild J. tér 1, (56) 42 07 04.
Morbitzer, its façade is a riot policy. North of the memorial Hódme ző vásárhely is famous
of colour, floral patterns and stands a well-presented for its Agricultural Festival. Much 0 Gyula Located where the river Zagyva
interwoven motifs. Many of 15 km (9 miles) east of Békéscaba. flows into the Tisza, Szolnok
the patterns are, in fact, copied Road Map F4. * 31,000. £ from has long been the last obstacle The Baroque Franciscan Church, the oldest
from the folk art of the Kiskun Békéscsaba, Budapest. @ from Békés- for invaders on the road to building in Szolnok
region: they can also be seen csaba. n Tourinform, Kossuth Lajos
on traditional lace tablecloths. utca 7, (66) 56 16 80. _ Gyula Castle Hungarian Calvinism
The roof is covered entirely Open-Air Theatre Festival (Jul, Aug).
in tiles made at the Zsolnay Calvinism flourished in eastern Hungary and in Transylvania from
factory in Pécs (see pp190–93). At one time Scythians, Huns and the second half of the 16th century to around 1700. Preaching to
On a gable, the city crest Avars all passed through the a public that considered Catholicism the religion of the Habsburgs,
can be seen, surrounded by area around the present town and therefore foreign, a great number of reformers were active in
tulip motifs. of Gyula, but a settle ment called Hungary before the Reformation movements of Martin Luther and
Although the town hall is an Gyulamono stora was first ment- John Calvin. The Turks actively encouraged the Reformation as a
official building and still used ioned in 1313. The impressive bulwark against Catholicism, and the Hungarian Reformed Church
for administrative purposes castle, which miraculously quickly became the largest in central Europe. Calvinism rejected
consubstantiation, and had a theocratic view of the state, popular
today, nobody seems to mind survives almost intact, was built with Hun garians under
visitors wandering in every in the 14th–15th centuries. Taken Turkish rule. When the
day to admire the main hall, by the Turks in 1566, it stayed Turks were finally expelled
which is as richly decorated under their control for 130 years. in 1699, the Habs burgs
as the exterior. The castle is the city’s leading confiscated Calvinist
sight, and it dominates the property. This Counter-
E Town Hall sprawling park that makes central Reformation bred resent-
Kossuth Lajos utca 1. Gyula so pleasant a place. Visitors ment, and was a major
Tel (76) 46 12 55. Open 7:30am– can clamber over its walls and factor in the creation in the
4pm Mon–Fri. 7 climb the lookout tower, or in 18th century of a national
summer enjoy a concert in the independence move ment,
7 Szeged court yard. Also in the park is the both in eastern Hungary The Calvinist College in Debrecen, founded
beautifully restored 18th-century and in Transylvania. in 1538
See pp246–7. The Neo-Classical Árpád Memorial at the Ópusztaszer Memorial Park Almásy Mansion, which has one
For hotels and restaurants see pp264–269 and pp276–285

244-245_EW_Hungary.indd 244 14/11/2017 16:49 244-245_EW_Hungary.indd 245 14/11/2017 16:49

THE GREA T PLAIN  245


Budapest. The city’s substantial
castle was built by St István
in 1075 but sacked first by the
Mongols, then by the Turks, so
that nothing remains of it today.
The most important historical
monument in the city now, a
short walk west of the centre, is
the Baroque Francis can church,
built in 1727–54. On the way
is the former synagogue at
Gyula Castle, almost intact after many years of Turkish rule Templom utca 2, a Seces sionist
building, restored in the 1950s.
of the event is based on Kossuth of Hungary’s best thermal bath Also worth a visit is the János
tér, a large pedestrianized complexes. The mansion also Damjanich Museum, north of
square. Here stands the large features an exhibi tion on every- the centre. Named after the
Secessionist Town Hall, whose day life – and life as a servant – in general who led the Hungarians
tower can be climbed. The a Hungarian mansion. to victory over the Habsburgs in
building next door (formerly a Another attraction is the the Battle of Szolnok in 1849, it
school) now houses the Alföld charming Százéves, Hungary’s exhibits folk art, archaeological
Gallery, which exhibits the second-oldest café, which items, and work by the Szolnok
work of Great Plain artists, for opened in 1840. Ferenc Erkel, Artists Colony.
example, József Koszta, Gyula who composed grand operas
Rudnay and Vilmos Aba-Novák. and the Hungarian national
The enormous New Calvinist anthem, was born in the house
church is impressive but a fair at Apor Vilmos tér 7. It now has
walk east along Andrássy utca. a small museum dedicated to
Opposite is a superb Secession- his life and work.
ist synagogue (1903), with an
exhibition dedicated to those
killed in the Holocaust. It often q Szolnok
hosts official com mem orative 100 km (59 miles) east of Budapest.
events on Holocaust Day.
Road Map E4. * 73,000. £ @ n
Tourinform, Hild J. tér 1, (56) 42 07 04.
0 Gyula Located where the river Zagyva
flows into the Tisza, Szolnok
15 km (9 miles) east of Békéscaba.
Road Map F4. * 31,000. £ from has long been the last obstacle The Baroque Franciscan Church, the oldest
Békéscsaba, Budapest. @ from Békés- for invaders on the road to building in Szolnok
csaba. n Tourinform, Kossuth Lajos
utca 7, (66) 56 16 80. _ Gyula Castle Hungarian Calvinism
Open-Air Theatre Festival (Jul, Aug).
Calvinism flourished in eastern Hungary and in Transylvania from
At one time Scythians, Huns and the second half of the 16th century to around 1700. Preaching to
Avars all passed through the a public that considered Catholicism the religion of the Habsburgs,
area around the present town and therefore foreign, a great number of reformers were active in
of Gyula, but a settle ment called Hungary before the Reformation movements of Martin Luther and
Gyulamono stora was first ment- John Calvin. The Turks actively encouraged the Reformation as a
ioned in 1313. The impressive bulwark against Catholicism, and the Hungarian Reformed Church
castle, which miraculously quickly became the largest in central Europe. Calvinism rejected
consubstantiation, and had a theocratic view of the state, popular
survives almost intact, was built with Hun garians under
in the 14th–15th centuries. Taken Turkish rule. When the
by the Turks in 1566, it stayed Turks were finally expelled
under their control for 130 years. in 1699, the Habs burgs
The castle is the city’s leading confiscated Calvinist
sight, and it dominates the property. This Counter-
sprawling park that makes central Reformation bred resent-
Gyula so pleasant a place. Visitors ment, and was a major
can clamber over its walls and factor in the creation in the
climb the lookout tower, or in 18th century of a national
summer enjoy a concert in the independence move ment,
court yard. Also in the park is the both in eastern Hungary The Calvinist College in Debrecen, founded
beautifully restored 18th-century and in Transylvania. in 1538
Almásy Mansion, which has one




244-245_EW_Hungary.indd 245 14/11/2017 16:49

246  HUNGAR Y REGION B Y REGION THE GREA T PLAIN  247

7 Szeged P Reök Palace of Popular Culture (Közművelődési F National Theatre VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Reök palota Palota) has in fact been a Nemzeti Színház
The fourth-largest city in the country, Szeged straddles the Tisza Lajos körút 56. museum since its completion Déak Ferenc utca 12. Tel (62) 47 92 79. Practical Information
River Tisza less than 20 km (12 miles) from the point where Built for István Reök, a wealthy in 1899. There are excellent Opened in 1883, the theatre Road Map E5. * 97,000.
Hungary, Serbia and Romania meet. Almost completely local merchant, in 1907, exhibitions on archaeology, burned down two years later. Roosevelt tér. n Tourin form,
Dugonics tér 2, (62) 48 86 90.
destroyed by spring floods in 1879, Szeged was entirely this extraordinary, fairy-tale ethno graphy and the history It was restored to its original ( daily, Mars tér. _ Szeged
Neo-Baroque design by the
building is a Secessionist
of the Csongrád region. One of
remodelled before being rebuilt, and its wide avenues, masterpiece. Designed by the highlights is the enormous Austrian architects Fellner and Open Air Theatre Festival (mid-
numerous public squares and vast array of architectural Ede Magyar Oszadszki, it looks painting by Pál Vágó showing Helmer. The lush interior, with Jul–Aug). n szegedtourism.hu
styles, from the Neo-Romanesque cathe dral to the like a giant cake topped with Szeged after the flood of 1879. three levels of boxes and an Transport
Secessionist Reök Palace, are testimony to enlightened town striped marzipan. The rotund The art gallery displays works intricately decorated ceiling, can £ Indóház tér, from Budapest.
@ Márs tér, from Kiskunfélegy-
planning. Famous for its free-thinking university, which was balcony on the corner, as well by Hungarian master József be seen during perform ances háza.
as the intricate ironwork –
Rippl-Rónai, though the main
of the philharmonic orchestra,
at the vanguard of the 1956 uprising, the city is today the including the blue flowers that attraction is Mihály Munkácsy’s opera or ballet.
most important on the southern Great Plain, and a centre surround the building like a Hungarian Conquest.
of the salami and paprika trade. cummerbund – are the work u Jewish Quarter the Old Syna gogue has a
of Fekete Pál, working to Zsidó Negyed high-water mark on its outer
designs by Magyar Oszadszki. E Castle Museum South of Nagy Jenő utca. New wall showing the level of the
in 1925, when a damaged Today the building is used by Vármúzeum – Kőtár Synagogue: Jósika utca 10, (62) 42 floods in 1879.
former Baroque cathedral a Hungarian bank. Stefánia sétány 2. Tel (62) 54 90 40. 38 49. Open call for opening times.
was cleared to make way for Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sun. & Closed Sat & Jewish holidays.
the Votive Church. It was fully The castle was built when Béla IV The enormous New
restored and converted into fortified Szeged in 1247 and Synagogue was built in
a baptistry by Béla Rerrich. extended by János in 1547. 1900–3 in Seces sionist style,
On the south side of the square, The scene of one of the with a grand 48-m (157-ft)
a pantheon celebrates famous Turks’ last stands in dome. Its marble
Hungarians. The Ecclesiastical Hungary, in 1688, it was taber nacle is covered
Museum and Treasury on the all but destroyed in the with gold leaf,
square’s western side holds a floods of 1879. All that while the dome,
collection of Catholic memor- remains today is a representing
The brown-brick twin-towered abilia. Behind Dóm tér is Aradi tiny part of a bastion. the night sky, is
Neo-Romanesque Votive Church Vértanuk tere, with a monument The small museum topped by deep
to the Martyrs of Arad, and the tells the castle’s blue glass and
R Votive Church Gate of Heroes (1937) honouring Secessionist elements on the façade of history (open only Detail on main entrance to dotted with stars. New Synagogue, built and decorated in
Szegedi Dóm the heroes of World War I, the Reök Palace in midsummer). the Castle Museum At Hajnó czy utca 12, Secessionist style
Dóm tér. Tel (62) 42 01 57. Open 9am– 12,000 fallen soldiers who came
5pm Tue–Sun. & 7 from Szeged. BUDAPEST
Neo-Romanesque in design, the P Széchenyi tér and Szeged City Centre RÁKÓCZI
Votive Church was con structed Town Hall 1 Votive Church Bus Station TÉR KOSSUTH SGT KALVIN T I S Z A LAJOS KÖRÚT
TÉR
P ÜS P ÖK U T CA
in 1913–30. Everything about it R Serb Orthodox Church Városháza 2 Demetrius Tower and Dóm tér 100 m (110 yards) Thermal Baths KA Z INCZ Y UT C A
is grand in scale. Designed by Görögkeleti Szerb Templom Széchenyi tér. 7 3 Serb Orthodox Church M É R EY U TC A
Frigyes Schulek and Ernő Foerk, Révai utca. Tel (62) 42 42 46. The pond in this large square 4 Reök Palace M I KS ZÁTH K ÁL M ÁN UT C A VÖRÖ SM AR T Y UTC A A RA N Y J . UTC A
it is dominated by two towers This single-towered church, commemorates the devastating 5 Széchenyi tér and D ÓZ S A UT CA S T E FÁ N I A
that reach just short of 100 m founded by Serb immi grants in flood. In front of it stands a Town Hall Great Old F EKE TE S AS UT CA Town Hall
(328 ft). The eastern tower can the 18th century, was remodelled statue of Count Széchenyi Synagogue Synagogue SZECHENYI DE Á K F ERE N C U T CA
be climbed in summer. Above in the Neo-Classical style in 1830. (see p46). The balcony and 6 Ferenc Móra Museum JEWISH TÉR National Theatre
the 10-m- (33-ft-) tall entrance Its beautiful original icono stasis colourful ceramic tiles of the 7 Castle Museum JOSI K A UTCA OUARTER T ISZA L AJOS KÖ RÚT KI G Y O U TC A Castle
Museum
is an enormous Madonna with by Jovan Popovic contains 80 Neo-Baroque Town Hall, built 8 National Theatre VAR UT CA S T E FÁ N I A
Child, while inside the church icons engraved in pear wood. in 1883 by Ödön Lechner, pre- 9 Jewish Quarter KLAUZÁL H I D U T C A Ferenc Móra Open-Air
KÁ R Á S Z U TCA
Thermal
TÉR
several frescoes by Schulek can empt the Secession (which Reök Palace KOLCSEY UTCA Museum Baths
be found, as well as the third- Lechner founded). A “Bridge KÁ LVAR I A SUG A RU T ORO S ZL AN U T ROOSEVELT Open-Air
largest organ in Europe. of Sighs” replica links the town TÉR Pools
hall to the building next door. DUGONICS Belvárosi
bridge
TÉR
S OM O G YI U T CA T C A
The Neo-Classical house (1844) B ÉK E UT CA Szeged
P Demetrius Tower and at No. 9 survived the flood. PE T ŐFI S U GAR UT University ZR INY I U O SK OL A UTCA C A
Dóm tér Serb Orthodox
Church
Dóm tér. 7 E Ferenc Móra Museum HONVÉD Demetrius Votive
The oldest structure in Szeged Közművelődési Palota TÉR Tower and Church Tisza
Dóm Tér
is the 12th- and 13th-century Roosevelt tér 1–3. Tel (62) 54 90 40. ARADI DÓM TÉR
Demetrius Tower (Dömötör- Open 10am–6pm daily. 0 metres 200 V I TÉ Z U T C A VERTANUK
TERE
torony) in Dóm tér. Part of a & 8 SZENTHÁROMSÁG ÚT
Heroes'
once much larger church, and Looking very much like a 0 yards 200 Gate TISZA LAJOS KÖRÚT
the traditional centre of town, The superbly intricate iconostasis of the Neo-Classical mansion built for
Train Station
the tower was only rediscovered Serb Orthodox Church a wealthy merchant, the Palace 300 m (330 yards)
For hotels and restaurants see pp264–269 and pp276–285 For keys to map symbols see back flap Freshwater fishing in the Hortobágy National Park
246-247_EW_Hungary.indd 246 18/09/17 3:41 pm 246-247_EW_Hungary.indd 247 18/09/17 3:41 pm

THE GREA T PLAIN  247


of Popular Culture (Közművelődési F National Theatre VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Palota) has in fact been a Nemzeti Színház
museum since its completion Déak Ferenc utca 12. Tel (62) 47 92 79. Practical Information
in 1899. There are excellent Opened in 1883, the theatre Road Map E5. * 97,000.
exhibitions on archaeology, burned down two years later. Roosevelt tér. n Tourin form,
ethno graphy and the history It was restored to its original Dugonics tér 2, (62) 48 86 90.
of the Csongrád region. One of Neo-Baroque design by the ( daily, Mars tér. _ Szeged
the highlights is the enormous Austrian architects Fellner and Open Air Theatre Festival (mid-
painting by Pál Vágó showing Helmer. The lush interior, with Jul–Aug). n szegedtourism.hu
Szeged after the flood of 1879. three levels of boxes and an Transport
The art gallery displays works intricately decorated ceiling, can £ Indóház tér, from Budapest.
by Hungarian master József be seen during perform ances @ Márs tér, from Kiskunfélegy-
Rippl-Rónai, though the main of the philharmonic orchestra, háza.
attraction is Mihály Munkácsy’s opera or ballet.
Hungarian Conquest.
u Jewish Quarter the Old Syna gogue has a
Zsidó Negyed high-water mark on its outer
E Castle Museum South of Nagy Jenő utca. New wall showing the level of the
Vármúzeum – Kőtár Synagogue: Jósika utca 10, (62) 42 floods in 1879.
Stefánia sétány 2. Tel (62) 54 90 40. 38 49. Open call for opening times.
Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sun. & Closed Sat & Jewish holidays.
The castle was built when Béla IV The enormous New
fortified Szeged in 1247 and Synagogue was built in
extended by János in 1547. 1900–3 in Seces sionist style,
The scene of one of the with a grand 48-m (157-ft)
Turks’ last stands in dome. Its marble
Hungary, in 1688, it was taber nacle is covered
all but destroyed in the with gold leaf,
floods of 1879. All that while the dome,
remains today is a representing
tiny part of a bastion. the night sky, is
The small museum topped by deep
tells the castle’s blue glass and
history (open only Detail on main entrance to dotted with stars. New Synagogue, built and decorated in
in midsummer). the Castle Museum At Hajnó czy utca 12, Secessionist style
BUDAPEST
Szeged City Centre
RÁKÓCZI KOSSUTH SGT
1 Votive Church Bus Station TÉR KALVIN T I S Z A LAJOS KÖRÚT
TÉR
P ÜS P ÖK U T CA
2 Demetrius Tower and Dóm tér 100 m (110 yards) Thermal Baths K A Z INCZ Y UT C A
3 Serb Orthodox Church M É R EY U TC A
4 Reök Palace M I KS ZÁTH K ÁL M ÁN UT C A VÖRÖ SM AR T Y UTC A A RA NY J . UTC A S T E FÁ N I A
5 Széchenyi tér and F EKE TE S AS UT CA Town Hall D ÓZ S A UT CA
Great
Town Hall Synagogue Old DE Á K F ERE N C U T CA
6 Ferenc Móra Museum Synagogue SZECHENYI National Theatre
TÉR
7 Castle Museum JOSI K A UTCA JEWISH T ISZA L AJOS KÖ RÚT Castle
8 National Theatre OUARTER KI G Y O U TC A VAR UT CA Museum
9 Jewish Quarter KLAUZÁL S T E FÁ N I A Ferenc Móra Open-Air
KÁ R Á S Z U TCA
Thermal
TÉR
H I D U T C A
Reök Palace Museum Baths
KÁ LVAR I A SUG A RU T
Open-Air
KOLCSEY UTCA
ROOSEVELT
TÉR
Pools
Belvárosi
ORO S ZL AN U T
DUGONICS
PE T Ő FI S U G AR UT University ZR INY I U O SK OL A UTCA C A Serb Orthodox
bridge
TÉR
S OM O G YI U T CA T C A
Szeged
B ÉK E UT CA
Demetrius Church
HONVÉD Tower and Votive
TÉR Church
Dóm Tér Tisza
SZENTHÁROMSÁG ÚT
ARADI
0 metres 200 V I TÉ Z U T C A VERTANUK DÓM TÉR
TERE
0 yards 200 Heroes' TISZA LAJOS KÖRÚT
Gate
Train Station
300 m (330 yards)
For keys to map symbols see back flap Freshwater fishing in the Hortobágy National Park
246-247_EW_Hungary.indd 247 18/09/17 3:41 pm

Hun_248-249.indd 248 17/02/2015 12:46 Hun_248-249.indd 249 17/02/2015 12:46