(DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Hungary

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250  HUNGAR Y REGION B Y REGION THE GREA T PLAIN  251

w Jászberény
50 km (31 miles) east of Budapest. The Horsemen of the Great Plain
Road Map D3. * 27,000.
£ from Szolnok, Budapest. @ from Since AD 900, when Magyar horsemen struck fear into the hearts of all who crossed their
Kecskemét. n Tourinform, Lehel paths as they rode through the Carpathians into Western Europe, Hungarians have been
vezér tér 33, (57) 40 64 39. _ Csángó renowned for their excellence in horsemanship. For more than 1,000 years, Hungarian
Folk lore Festival (early Aug).
military and econ omic power relied in many respects on the skill of its horsemen, and on
Jászberény is named for the the sturdiness of the short-necked horses they rode, since much of the country’s history
Jász, an allegedly Iranian people took place on horseback. While the romantic nomads of yore have long since disap-
who settled in the area around peared, the Hungarian traditions of horsemanship are preserved in the many equestrian
1200. A number of other towns centres on the Great Plain, which offers an ideal climate for riding tours and hunting.
and villages in the region bear Horsemen put on shows with great feats of horsemanship (such as the Puszta Fiver, see
the Jász- prefix, yet there is
nothing to set apart the Jász p239), and the enterprise of breeding thoroughbreds has enjoyed a renaissance.
today. Their Persian language
has long been assimilated, and
their heritage is preserved only
in the Jász Museum, the main
sight in Jászberény. Here visitors Sunset over the man-made Lake Tisza, which incorporates a nature reserve
will find the legendary Lehel
Horn (see box), as well as back- e Tiszafüred the Pál Kiss Museum, based in
ground on the life of the Jász 63 km (39 miles) west of Debrecen. a Neo-Classical villa in the city
people. There is a poignant Road Map E3. * 11,500. £ from centre. One of Hungary’s oldest
exhibit commem orating Jász Debrecen. @ from Debrecen, regional museums, founded
children, some as young as 14, Buda pest. n Tourinform, Fürdő in 1877, its displays include The patrac is a unique saddle without a
who fought and defeated the utca 21, (59) 51 11 23. wooden panels, painted girth to tie it around the horse, used only The classic view of the Puszta: man, horse and an
Habs burgs in the Battle of furniture and pottery, as well on ceremonial occasions: Puszta horsemen improvised well. It is not without reason that this part
Tápióbicske in 1849. The largest resort of Lake Tisza as an excellent archaeology ordinarily eschew saddles. of Hungary is considered a land only for the hardy.
In August, the town plays (see pp252–3) is a bustling town exhib ition, with Roman coins
host to the Csángó Folklore and probably the best place for and mosaics. The museum is
Modern Puszta shows are
Festival, a cele bration of the a long stay on the Tisza. Though named after Pál Kiss, one of strictly for the benefit of visitors,
traditions of the Csángós, a there are no luxury hotels, there the generals of the revolution yet these performances allow
Hungarian-speaking people are plenty of good, well-priced of 1848–9. It also show cases the Puszta horsemen, known as
who fled eastern Hungary for pensions and many good leather goods made at the Csikós, to preserve and
Moldavia during the Mongol traditional restaurants. The main Leather Production House, demonstrate their prowess
invasion. As many as 70,000 attraction of the town is, of on Ady Endre utca. in – and out – of the saddle.
Csángós still live in Moldavia course, the lake itself, and the
(eastern Romania) today. tourist information office can E Pál Kiss Museum
help with arranging boating, Tariczky sétány 8. Tel (59) 35 21 06.
E Jász Museum fishing and cycle hire. The only Open 9am–noon, 1–5pm Tue–Sat.
Táncsics Mihály utca 5. Tel (57) 50 real tourist site in the town is 8 Hungarian only. 7
26 10. Open Apr–Oct: 9am–5pm
Tue–Sun; Nov–Mar: 9am–4pm Tue–Fri,
9am–1pm Sat & Sun. 8 7 The Lehel Horn
Legend has it that in AD 955, the Hungarians – who spent much
of the period pillaging throughout central Europe – came up Bogrács, the traditional
against fierce resistance at Augsburg in Germany. Two Hungarian method of Puszta cooking,
warriors, Lehel and Bulcsú, were captured and brought before involves a large beef or pork
the German commander, who intended to reward their bravery stew being cooked very slowly
by allowing them to choose the manner of their death. Lehel in a kettle over an open fire.
asked the Germans to bring him his horn, to help him meditate
upon his answer. Once he had the horn in his hands he struck
the German com mander with it, killing him instantly. Lehel and
Bulcsú were brutally executed soon after, but having dispatched The Horse Lay was a
the enemy first meant that he would have to serve Lehel in the necessary method of
afterlife. The horn – miraculously – made its way back to protection, as the
Jászberény. Sadly for terrain offered little The horses of the Puszta are
romantics and lovers cover for the advan­ mainly of the Hortobágy Nonius
of legends, the horn cing cavalry. The breed, known for their discipline.
on display at the Jász Puszta horsemen They are increasingly popular –
Museum dates from trained their horses especially in the US, where they
the 10th or 11th century, The Lehel horn, one of Hungary’s most to lie down and to are trained as dressage and
Costumes of the Jász people, at the Jász and is of Byzantine origin. important treasures “crawl” in the grass. equestrian competition horses.
Museum in Jászberény
For hotels and restaurants see pp264–269 and pp276–285


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THE GREA T PLAIN  251


The Horsemen of the Great Plain

Since AD 900, when Magyar horsemen struck fear into the hearts of all who crossed their
paths as they rode through the Carpathians into Western Europe, Hungarians have been
renowned for their excellence in horsemanship. For more than 1,000 years, Hungarian
military and econ omic power relied in many respects on the skill of its horsemen, and on
the sturdiness of the short-necked horses they rode, since much of the country’s history
took place on horseback. While the romantic nomads of yore have long since disap-
peared, the Hungarian traditions of horsemanship are preserved in the many equestrian
centres on the Great Plain, which offers an ideal climate for riding tours and hunting.
Horsemen put on shows with great feats of horsemanship (such as the Puszta Fiver, see
p239), and the enterprise of breeding thoroughbreds has enjoyed a renaissance.











The patrac is a unique saddle without a
girth to tie it around the horse, used only The classic view of the Puszta: man, horse and an
on ceremonial occasions: Puszta horsemen improvised well. It is not without reason that this part
ordinarily eschew saddles. of Hungary is considered a land only for the hardy.
Modern Puszta shows are
strictly for the benefit of visitors,
yet these performances allow
the Puszta horsemen, known as
Csikós, to preserve and
demonstrate their prowess
in – and out – of the saddle.









Bogrács, the traditional
method of Puszta cooking,
involves a large beef or pork
stew being cooked very slowly
in a kettle over an open fire.

The Horse Lay was a
necessary method of
protection, as the
terrain offered little The horses of the Puszta are
cover for the advan­ mainly of the Hortobágy Nonius
cing cavalry. The breed, known for their discipline.
Puszta horsemen They are increasingly popular –
trained their horses especially in the US, where they
to lie down and to are trained as dressage and
“crawl” in the grass. equestrian competition horses.





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252  HUNGAR Y REGION B Y REGION THE GREA T PLAIN  253


r A Tour Around Lake Tisza
Tips for Drivers
Although it is today considered one of the natural 8 Négyes Tour length: 71 km (44 miles)
wonders of Hungary, Lake Tisza is, in fact, an Peregrine falcons are just one DózsatelepDózsatelep Stopping-off points:
Mező-Mező-
artificial lake, created in the early 1970s when the of many bird species which KövesdKövesd Borsodi-Borsodi- Outside Tiszafüred the best
places to eat are the small
River Tisza was dammed for the irrigation of enjoy the microclimate vánkavánka TiszavalkTiszavalk pensions and restaurants of
generated by the lake
the Great Plain. Covering 127 sq km (49 sq miles), waters. Of the 380 species Abádszalók, while Kisköre has a
it is second in size only to Lake Balaton, and is found in Hungary, up good choice of pensions offering
increasingly challenging its more famous neigh- to 200 can be seen PusztarábolyPusztaráboly fine local food. Though not part
of this tour, note that the area of
bour as a popular summer holiday destination. at the Lake Tisza the lake north of motorway 33 is
Nature Reserve.
Most of the northern part of the lake is a protected part of Hortobágy National Park
nature reserve, much loved by birdwatchers, and accessible only with a guide.
and accessible only with a guide. Füzesabony,Füzesabony,
EgerEger Tisza Tisza
ÚjlőrincfalvaÚjlőrincfalva



DebrecenDebrecen 1 Tiszafüred
PusztaPuszta The main resort on the lake, Tiszafüred has
7 Poroszló domaházadomaháza many grass beaches, boat launches and a
Rowing boats are available for hire to those who couple of good museums (see p250). It is
wish to explore the lake, and there is a popular KunmadarasKunmadaras also a major birdwatching centre.
nature trail that snakes its way around this village
Tisza
and the surrounding countryside. Tisza
3 Tiszaderzs
T i s z a L a k e e TiszaszőlősTiszaszőlős set slightly back
T i s z a L a k
TiszanánaTiszanána A quiet town
from the shores
of the lake,
Tiszaderzs has
BorbélytanaBorbélytana two fine churches,
both on Fő utca: a
Romanesque church,
origi nally from the 13th
HatházpusztaHatházpuszta century but rebuilt in the 2 Patkós Csárda
HevesHeves DinnyéshátDinnyéshát 1600s, and a fine 18th-century A traditional Puszta restaurant just
6 Sarud Baroque Reformed church. out side Tiszafüred on motorway 33,
Tisza
Sarud is a superb little village, famous for its Tisza the Patkós (Horse Shoe) is a popular
many attractive 18th- and 19th-century stopping-off point for motorists. The
thatched cottages, and it also boasts a great inn serves huge portions of local dishes,
shallow beach that is perfect for children. including a wide range of game.
BánomszloBánomszlo
0 kilometres 3
Tisza SzalókirétSzalókirét 0 miles 3
Tisza
PusztataskonyPusztataskony
TiszaburaTiszabura
KunhegyesKunhegyes Key
Tour route
5 Kisköre 4 Abádszalók Major road
This delightful family-oriented resort is home The large water park at Abádszalók is one of the most
to Lake Tisza’s best beaches, which even in popular attractions around the lake. The resort itself is Other road
high summer rarely get crowded. an excellent base from where to try water sports. Main railway

For hotels and restaurants see pp264–269 and pp276–285 For keys to map symbols see back flap


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THE GREA T PLAIN  253



Tips for Drivers
Tour length: 71 km (44 miles)
Dózsatelep Stopping-off points:
Mező- Outside Tiszafüred the best
Kövesd Borsodi- places to eat are the small
vánka Tiszavalk pensions and restaurants of
Abádszalók, while Kisköre has a
good choice of pensions offering
fine local food. Though not part
Pusztaráboly of this tour, note that the area of
the lake north of motorway 33 is
part of Hortobágy National Park
and accessible only with a guide.
Füzesabony,
Eger Tisza



Újlőrincfalva



Debrecen 1 Tiszafüred
Puszta The main resort on the lake, Tiszafüred has
domaháza
many grass beaches, boat launches and a
Kunmadaras couple of good museums (see p250). It is
also a major birdwatching centre.
Tisza
3 Tiszaderzs
T i s z a L a k e Tiszaszőlős set slightly back
Tiszanána A quiet town
from the shores
of the lake,
Tiszaderzs has
Borbélytana two fine churches,
both on Fő utca: a
Romanesque church,
origi nally from the 13th
Hatházpuszta century but rebuilt in the 2 Patkós Csárda
Heves Dinnyéshát 1600s, and a fine 18th-century A traditional Puszta restaurant just
Baroque Reformed church. out side Tiszafüred on motorway 33,
Tisza the Patkós (Horse Shoe) is a popular
stopping-off point for motorists. The
inn serves huge portions of local dishes,
including a wide range of game.
Bánomszlo

0 kilometres 3
Tisza Szalókirét 0 miles 3
Pusztataskony
Tiszabura
Kunhegyes Key
Tour route
4 Abádszalók Major road
The large water park at Abádszalók is one of the most
popular attractions around the lake. The resort itself is Other road
an excellent base from where to try water sports. Main railway

For keys to map symbols see back flap


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254  HUNGAR Y REGION B Y REGION THE GREA T PLAIN  255

t Debrecen without a Cath olic church. E Déri Museum and Square VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
In 1993, Pope John Paul II Déri Múzeum
This charming town of 203,000 people barely counts as a elevated the rank of the Déri tér 1. Tel (52) 32 22 07. Practical Information
metropolis, yet it is Hungary’s second-largest town. Famous church to cathedral. The key Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun. & Road Map F3. * 203,000.
7 ∑ derimuzeum.hu
n Tourinform, Piac utca 20, (52)
for its Calvinist Reformed College (1583) and Calvinist sight inside the church is 41 22 50. ( daily. _ Spring
Church (1822), there has been a settlement here since its altarpiece, depict ing St Anna An outstanding example of its Festival (Mar & Apr); Campus
kind, the Déri Museum show­
teaching Mary. There is also
Roman times, and Debrecen has always been an important a certified replica of the Turin cases exhibits of local cultural Festival (Jul); Flower Carnival
market town. During the revolutions of 1848–49 and 1944 Shroud on display in the interest and the huge collection (Aug); Wine & Jazz Days (Aug);
it served as Hungary’s capital and its parlia ment met here. building since 2011. of art and antiquities amassed Autumn Festival (Oct & Nov);
International Nativity Play Festival
Today celebrated for its grand bath complex and excellent by Viennese silk manu facturer (Dec). ∑ debrecen.hu
university, Debrecen is one of the most pleasant towns Interior of the Small Reformed Church, P Calvinist Reformed Frigyes Déri. The Egyptian and the Transport
Japanese collections are especially
bastion of Protestantism
College
in Hungary. Almost all its sights are situated around a Református kollégium fine; other star attractions include £ Petőfi tér, from Budapest,
pedestrian-only public square, while its thermal baths and multimedia art from Kálvin tér 16. Tel (52) 61 43 70. the extraordinary paintings of Miskolc. @ Nyugati utca, from
are in a lovely wooded spot just north of the centre. Hungary and elsewhere in Open 10am–4pm Mon–Fri, 10am– Christ by Mihály Munkácsy. The Budapest, Miskolc. ~ Debrecen.
Europe. Performance spaces 1pm Sat. & for museum. 7 group of four statues by Ferenc
are also used for theatre, film, ∑ muzeum.drk.hu Medgyessy in the restful square
P Piac Street and Town Hall featuring organists form part dance, workshops, lectures The college was founded by in front of the main building  Aquaticum Health and
Piac utca; Városháza of the church’s concert and other teaching events. Dominican monks, anxious to was awarded the Grand Prize Spa Centre
Piac utca. 7 schedule. Hungary’s parliament create a seat of learning in the at the 1937 Paris Exposition. Aquaticum Gyógy- és Fürdőközpont
Piac utca translates as “Market met at this quietly dignified R Small Reformed Church area, in 1538. Teachers were Nagyerdei park 1. Tel (52) 51 41 00.
Street”, and derives from the church from 1848–9, and Református Kistemplom trained here (in Latin) before Thermal Baths: Open 7am–9pm daily.
important cattle markets held inside the chair from which Révész tér 2. Tel (52) 34 28 72. being sent to one of 140 free Pleasure Baths: Open 11am–8pm
here between the 16th and 18th Lajos Kossuth declared Open 10am–4pm Mon–Fri, or schools the college operated Mon–Thu, 10am–9pm Fri–Sun. &
centuries. Debrecen’s main street, Hungary’s indepen dence is by appointment. 7 in the region. Rebuilt in 1675 and 7 ∑ aquaticum.hu
it leads from the rather bleak preserved for posterity. From The tower of this charming in 1816, the present build ing Debrecen’s famous, extensive
area around the railway station the top of the towers there church was originally topped was designed by Mihály Péchy, bath complex comprises a
to its central square, Kossuth tér. are great views of the city. by an Orthodox-style onion who was also commissioned to thermal bath, a Mediterranean
Apart from its magnificent church dome, but high winds blew design the Great Reformed aqua park, a sauna world, a
(see below), one of the most eye- the dome off in 1907, and Church. Designated as a national wellness island, and a vast
catching buildings of the square a replace ment suffered a similar monument in 2013, the college water­therapy treatment centre.
is Hotel Aranybika, a Secessionist fate a few years later. The has a museum dedicated to The modern, indoor pleasure
masterpiece desi gned by Alfréd tower was then finished with the school’s history, student baths cater to families and
Hajós, Hungary’s first Olympic crenellations and took on the life, and the religious art of the The grand main entrance to the young people, with water slides,
champion, and opened in 1915. rather truncated look it has Reformed Church in the region. Neo-Baroque Déri Museum children’s pools and Thai massage.
The square is also used to host today, earning it its nickname
concerts and festivals, including of “stumpy church”. A bastion Aquaticum
Health
the Flower Carnival in August of Protes tan tism, it was here Debrecen City Centre and Spa
Centre
and seasonal food festivals. The in 1860 that Péter Balogh, 1 Piac Street and Town Hall PÉTERFIA UTCA
Neo-Classical building on the Bishop of Debrecen, declared 2 Great Reformed Church BETHLEN UTCA SZAPPANOS UTCA
corner of Piac utca and Kossuth the Hungarian Protes tant 3 MODEM Center of Modern R Á K OCZI UT CA
utca is Debrecen Town Hall, built churches to be indepen dent and Contemporary Art MESTER UTCA HUNYADI JÁNOS UTCA
Calvinist
in 1842–3 to a design by local of the Habsburg emperors. 4 Small Reformed Church MODEM Center of Modern Reformed C SA P Ó UT C A
College
architect Ferenc Povolny. The Great Reformed Church and fountain and Contemporary Art Cultural Market
Centre
Déri Museum and Square
at Kossuth Square R St Anna’s Cathedral 5 St Anna’s Cathedral MÚZEUM UTCA Great Reformed KIGYÓ UTCA
R Great Reformed Church Szent Anna Székesegyház 6 Calvinist Reformed JÓKA I UT CA Church BURGUNDIA U.
Református Nagytemplom E MODEM Center of Modern Szent Anna utca 15. Tel (52) 53 66 52. College CSOKON AI UT C A KOSSUTH CEGLÉD UTCA
TÉR
Piac utca 4–6. Tel (52) 61 41 60. and Contemporary Art Open 6:30am–7pm daily. 7 ^ 7 Déri Museum and Square LISZT F. UTCA
Open Mar–May, Sep & Oct: 9am–4pm MODEM Modern és Kortárs Debrecen’s largest Catholic 8 Aquaticum Health and H AT VA N U T C A Piac Street KOSSUTH UTCA FARAKT ÁR UTCA
(to 1pm Sat), noon–4pm Sun; Jun–Aug: Művészeti Központ church was built in 1726–46 Spa Centre and Town Hall Greek
S I M ONF FY UT C A
9am–6pm Mon–Fri (to 1pm Sat), noon– Baltazár Dezső tér 1–3. Tel (52) 52 50 to appease the Habsburg B A J CS Y- ZSIL I N SZ K Y UT C A Small KLAIPEDA U. Orthodox
Reformed
Church
4pm Sun; Nov–Feb: 10am–3pm Mon– 10.Open 10am–6pm Tue, Wed, Fri–Sun, emperor, who would not Church BATTHYANY U. ATTILA
Fri, 9am–1pm Sat, noon–4pm Sun. noon–8pm Thu. Closed Mon. & free have one of his Royal Free Towns SZÉCHENYI UTCA P I A SZEN T ANN A UTCA TÉR
Closed during services. & 7 for children under 7, students, disabled St Anna’s
Cathedral
Debrecen’s defining landmark plus one attendant. 8 7 0 =
∑ modemart.hu
towers above much of the city. N Y UG ATI UT C A Bus Station ARANY JÁNOS UTC A C U T C A
Originally called St Andrew’s A magnificent arts centre MIK LÓ S U TC A S U M EN U T C A
Church and dating from 1291, built in 2006, MODEM stages 0 metres 100 VA R GA UTC A
it was destroyed by fire in 1802. some 10–15 exhibitions a 0 yards 100 SZ Í V U T CA BA R NA UT CA
The present church was built in year of, often, world-class PETŐFI WE SS EL ÉNY I U T C A
TÉR
1819– 23, to designs by Mihály 20th-century and contem - SALÉTROM UTC A E R Z S É B E T UTC A
VÖRÖSMARTY UTCA
Péchy. Its enormous organ was porary art: paintings, sculpture,
added in 1838, and recitals photography, video installations Detail from the exterior of St Anna’s ChurchDetail from the exterior of St Anna’s Church Train Station
For hotels and restaurants see pp264–269 and pp276–285 For keys to map symbols see back flap
254-255_EW_Hungary.indd 254 18/09/17 3:37 pm 254-255_EW_Hungary.indd 255 18/09/17 3:37 pm

THE GREA T PLAIN  255


without a Cath olic church. E Déri Museum and Square VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
In 1993, Pope John Paul II Déri Múzeum
elevated the rank of the Déri tér 1. Tel (52) 32 22 07. Practical Information
church to cathedral. The key Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun. & Road Map F3. * 203,000.
sight inside the church is 7 ∑ derimuzeum.hu n Tourinform, Piac utca 20, (52)
its altarpiece, depict ing St Anna An outstanding example of its 41 22 50. ( daily. _ Spring
teaching Mary. There is also kind, the Déri Museum show­ Festival (Mar & Apr); Campus
a certified replica of the Turin cases exhibits of local cultural Festival (Jul); Flower Carnival
Shroud on display in the interest and the huge collection (Aug); Wine & Jazz Days (Aug);
building since 2011. of art and antiquities amassed Autumn Festival (Oct & Nov);
International Nativity Play Festival
by Viennese silk manu facturer
P Calvinist Reformed Frigyes Déri. The Egyptian and the (Dec). ∑ debrecen.hu
College Japanese collections are especially Transport
Református kollégium fine; other star attractions include £ Petőfi tér, from Budapest,
Kálvin tér 16. Tel (52) 61 43 70. the extraordinary paintings of Miskolc. @ Nyugati utca, from
Open 10am–4pm Mon–Fri, 10am– Christ by Mihály Munkácsy. The Budapest, Miskolc. ~ Debrecen.
1pm Sat. & for museum. 7 group of four statues by Ferenc
∑ muzeum.drk.hu Medgyessy in the restful square
The college was founded by in front of the main building  Aquaticum Health and
Dominican monks, anxious to was awarded the Grand Prize Spa Centre
create a seat of learning in the at the 1937 Paris Exposition. Aquaticum Gyógy- és Fürdőközpont
area, in 1538. Teachers were Nagyerdei park 1. Tel (52) 51 41 00.
trained here (in Latin) before Thermal Baths: Open 7am–9pm daily.
being sent to one of 140 free Pleasure Baths: Open 11am–8pm
schools the college operated Mon–Thu, 10am–9pm Fri–Sun. &
in the region. Rebuilt in 1675 and 7 ∑ aquaticum.hu
in 1816, the present build ing Debrecen’s famous, extensive
was designed by Mihály Péchy, bath complex comprises a
who was also commissioned to thermal bath, a Mediterranean
design the Great Reformed aqua park, a sauna world, a
Church. Designated as a national wellness island, and a vast
monument in 2013, the college water­therapy treatment centre.
has a museum dedicated to The modern, indoor pleasure
the school’s history, student baths cater to families and
life, and the religious art of the The grand main entrance to the young people, with water slides,
Reformed Church in the region. Neo-Baroque Déri Museum children’s pools and Thai massage.
Aquaticum
Debrecen City Centre Health
and Spa
Centre
1 Piac Street and Town Hall BETHLEN UTCA PÉTERFIA UTCA
2 Great Reformed Church SZAPPANOS UTCA
3 MODEM Center of Modern HUNYADI JÁNOS UTCA
and Contemporary Art MESTER UTCA Calvinist C SA P Ó UT C A
Reformed
R Á K OCZI UT CA
4 Small Reformed Church MODEM Center of Modern Cultural College Market
and Contemporary Art
5 St Anna’s Cathedral Déri Museum and Square Centre Great Reformed KIGYÓ UTCA
6 Calvinist Reformed JÓKA I UT CA MÚZEUM UTCA Church BURGUNDIA U.
College KOSSUTH CEGLÉD UTCA
TÉR
7 Déri Museum and Square CSOKON AI UT C A LISZT F. UTCA
8 Aquaticum Health and H AT VA N U T C A Piac Street KOSSUTH UTCA FARAKT ÁR UTCA
B A J CS Y- ZSIL I N SZ K Y UT C A Small BATTHYANY U. KLAIPEDA U. Orthodox
Spa Centre and Town Hall Greek
S I M ONF FY UT C A
Reformed
Church
SZÉCHENYI UTCA P I A SZEN T ANN A UTCA ATTILA
Church
TÉR
St Anna’s
Cathedral
MIK LÓ S U TC A
Bus Station ARANY JÁNOS UTC A C U T C A
0 metres 100 VA R GA UTC A S U M EN U T C A
N Y UG ATI UT C A
BA R NA UT CA PETŐFI WE SS EL ÉNY I U T C A
0 yards 100
TÉR
SZ Í V U T CA
VÖRÖSMARTY UTCA
E R Z S É B E T UTC A
Detail from the exterior of St Anna’s Church SALÉTROM UTC A Train Station
For keys to map symbols see back flap
254-255_EW_Hungary.indd 255 18/09/17 3:37 pm

256  HUNGAR Y REGION B Y REGION THE GREA T PLAIN  257


u Hortobágy & and Hungary’s best. It organizes church, was built around 1480. s Szatmárcseke
Hortobágy Csikós riding performances (see Partially destroyed during raids 27 km (17 miles) southeast of
National Park box, p239), and provides riding by Vlachs (Romanians) in 1587, Vásárosnamény. Road Map G2.
it was left to rot until 1720, when
lessons for visitors in summer.
* 1,600. @ from Vásárosnamény,
Hortobágyi Nemzeti Park While much of Hortobágy it was restored in the Baroque Fehérgyarmat.
Road Map F3. @ n Tourinform, HNP National Park is open all year style by the Minorite Order.
Visitor Centre, Petőfi tér 9, Hortobágy, round, some parts have limited The István Báthory Museum At Szatmárcseke, the Protestant
(052) 58 93 21. Open National Park: access. The park’s adminis tration next door holds a number of cemetery is a unique sight
8am–4pm daily; May, Jun & Sep: and visitors’ centre is in the charm- artifacts from around the worth visiting. Almost all the
9am–5pm daily; Jul & Aug: 9am–6pm ing village of Hortobágy itself. region, including a vast section grave markers are 2-m- (6.5-ft-)
daily; Dec: 10am–2pm daily. & 8 The village has three small on Count István Báthory, Prince high boats, preserving, it is
7 0 - = ∑ hnp.hu hotels and the 17th-century of Transylvania, from 1488 to thought, the ancient Finno-
Hortobágy Csárda restaurant, 1511, and the Báthory family. Ugric custom of burying the
This enormous national park was which serves Hungary’s national The other historic church of dead in boats. The tomb of
the first to be cre ated in Hungary, dish, goulash (gulyás leves), which the town is the Calvinist poet Ferenc Kölcsey (1790–
in 1973, and remains the largest, originated in the Puszta. There is church on Egyház utca, a late 1838) is on a hill in the centre
stret ching over 820 sq km also a small Shepherds’ Museum Gothic building built by István of the cemetery, surrounded
(317 sq miles) from Lake Tisza (Pásztor múzeum) with fascinating The miraculous icon of the Virgin Mary in Báthory. This church, built as by white Neo-Classical
The Mediterranean beach at the spa to Debrecen. It was added to facts about the life of the Puszta the Greek Catholic church in Máriapócs the Báthory Mauso leum, is columns. The poet lived
complex in Hajdúszoboszló UNESCO’s World Heritage List in shepherd. The unique Nine- a master piece of medi- in the village in the early
1999. The vast plain, known locally Arch Bridge (Kilen clyukú híd), o Máriapócs eval archi tecture. The 19th century and wrote
y Hajdúszoboszló as the Puszta (mean ing “empti- built in 1827–33 to designs 31 km (19 miles) from Nyíregyháza. nave consists of one many of his famous
20 km (12 miles) west of Debrecen. ness”), is the nesting site of as by Ferenc Povolny, crosses the Road Map F3. * 2,300. single large hall, with poems here, including
Road Map F3. * 24,000. £ from many as 152 species of bird, River Hortobágy and once @ from Nyíregyháza. @ from a small tower in its the words of the
Debrecen, Budapest. @ from including great bustards, herons, formed part of the main road Nyíregy háza, Nyírbátor. _ 15 Aug southwestern corner Hungarian National
Debrecen, Budapest. n Tourinform, storks and spoonbills, while up from Budapest to Debrecen. (Assump tion Day). and the two-storey Anthem, written in
Szent István park 1–3, (52) 55 89 28. to 342 different bird species have sacristy at the north- 1823. An exhibition
∑ hajduszoboszlo.hu been spotted here in migration, O Hortobágy Vadaspark In 1696 an icon of the Virgin eastern side. Two in the Cultural Centre
including tens of thousands of Tel (30) 564 57 73. Open Apr–Oct: Mary in the twin-domed Greek István Báthorys rest commemorates the
The most popular spa resort screeching cranes, which can 10am–4pm Mon–Fri (book ahead); Catholic church in Máriapócs here: the Lord Chief time Kölcsey spent in
on the Great Plain and the be seen in late September. Nov–Mar: bus departs from the was seen weeping. The icon Justice of Hungary and Szatmárcseke.
largest thermal bath complex Cattle, horses, buffalo, the visitor centre at 10am, noon & 2pm was immediately taken to author of psalms in a Some 10 km
in Hungary, the waters here Hungarian racka (a long-haired Sat & Sun. & Vienna (to St Stephen’s Cathe- stone tomb and, next (6 miles) south, on the
have been attracting visitors sheep), parlagi (a goat) and G Hortobágy Máta Stud Farm dral) and replaced with a replica. to him, under red banks of the River Túr,
since the 1920s. The extensive mangalica pig continue to Czinege J. utca 1, Hortobágy. When the replica wept again in marble, the earlier is the tiny village of
Hajdúszoboszló Medicinal Spa be herded by semi-nomadic Tel (52) 58 93 68. Open 9am–7pm 1715 and in 1905, the fate of Count István Báthory. Túristvándi, known
(Hajdúszoboszló Gyógy fűrdő) farmers here, as they have for daily. & 8 riding lessons, other Máriapócs as a place of for its 18th-century
has been modernized, with almost 1,000 years. activities by appointment. pilgrimage was sealed. Today, as E István Báthory Fresco from the wooden water mill.
giant water slides, wave pools, The Hortobágyi Vadaspark E Shepherds’ Museum many as one million Catholics Museum Calvinist church Although it is no
an artificial Mediterranean serves as a reserve for wild Petőfi tér 1, Hortobágy. Tel (52) 36 make the trip every year, many Károlyi Mihály utca 21. in Csaroda longer used as a
beach and children’s play areas animal species that populated 90 40. Open Mar, Apr & Oct & Nov: on or around Assumption Day Tel (42) 51 02 18. Open mill, visitors may
complementing the traditional the region before the encroach- 10am–4pm daily; May, Jun & Sep: (15 August), when the village is Apr–Sep: 10am–6pm Tue–Sun; Oct– see the wheels and the
spa waters. The latter are brown, ment of civili zation. Visitors can 9am–5pm daily, Jul & Aug: 9am–6pm literally besieged by the faithful. Mar: 8am–4pm Mon–Fri, weekends millstones at work.
very salty and contain iodine take a safari tour to get up close daily. Closed Dec–mid-Mar. & by appointment. 8 Hungarian (in
and bromine. Sufferers of to wolves, jackals, pelicans and E Greek Catholic church German by prior arrangement). 7
rheumatism swear by their more. Hortobágy Máta Stud i Nyíregyháza Kossuth tér 25. Tel (42) 38 51 42.
curative effect, and they are also Farm riding centre located inside Open 7:30am–7pm. 7 a Csaroda
said to help cure gynaecological the park is an 18th-century stud See pp258–9.
disorders. Non-water-related p Nyírbátor 15 km (9 miles) east of Vásáros-
activities include restaurants, namény. Road Map G2. * 560.
cafés and the István Bocskai 36 km (22 miles) from Nyíregyháza. @ from Vásárosnamény, Tákos,
Museum, which has an Road Map G3. * 12,500. £ from Fehérgyarmat.
exhibition of the town’s history, Nyíregyháza, Debrecen. @ from
including the story of how the Nyíregyháza, Debrecen. Standing on a hill surrounded
waters were discovered during by Csaroda Creek, the Calvinist
the search for oil (see p167). This small town is inextricably Church at Csaroda was built
linked to the notoriously in late Romanesque style in
 Hajdúszoboszló Medicinal Spa bloody Báthory family, who the 13th century. In 1640, its
Szent István Park 1–3. Tel (52) 55 85 owned it in the Middle Ages. walls were whitewashed
58. Thermal baths: Open 7am–7pm Besides bloodlust and murder, and decorated with flowers.
daily; Aqua Park: Open Jun–Aug: however, the Báthorys left two Restoration of the church
10am– 6pm daily (to 7pm 5 Jul– magnificent churches to revealed the original medieval
10 Aug); open at weekends off-season Nyírbátor’s citizens. One of frescoes depicting Saints Peter Boat-shaped grave markers in the cemetery
when weather permits. & 7 The 19th-century Nine-Arch Bridge in Hortobágy these, a Roman Catholic and Paul, among others. in Szatmárcseke
For hotels and restaurants see pp264–269 and pp276–285


256-257_EW_Hungary.indd 256 18/09/17 3:38 pm 256-257_EW_Hungary.indd 257 18/09/17 3:38 pm

THE GREA T PLAIN  257

s Szatmárcseke
church, was built around 1480.
Partially destroyed during raids 27 km (17 miles) southeast of
by Vlachs (Romanians) in 1587, Vásárosnamény. Road Map G2.
it was left to rot until 1720, when * 1,600. @ from Vásárosnamény,
it was restored in the Baroque Fehérgyarmat.
style by the Minorite Order.
The István Báthory Museum At Szatmárcseke, the Protestant
next door holds a number of cemetery is a unique sight
artifacts from around the worth visiting. Almost all the
region, including a vast section grave markers are 2-m- (6.5-ft-)
on Count István Báthory, Prince high boats, preserving, it is
of Transylvania, from 1488 to thought, the ancient Finno-
1511, and the Báthory family. Ugric custom of burying the
The other historic church of dead in boats. The tomb of
the town is the Calvinist poet Ferenc Kölcsey (1790–
church on Egyház utca, a late 1838) is on a hill in the centre
Gothic building built by István of the cemetery, surrounded
The miraculous icon of the Virgin Mary in Báthory. This church, built as by white Neo-Classical
the Greek Catholic church in Máriapócs the Báthory Mauso leum, is columns. The poet lived
a master piece of medi- in the village in the early
o Máriapócs eval archi tecture. The 19th century and wrote
nave consists of one many of his famous
31 km (19 miles) from Nyíregyháza.
Road Map F3. * 2,300. single large hall, with poems here, including
@ from Nyíregyháza. @ from a small tower in its the words of the
Nyíregy háza, Nyírbátor. _ 15 Aug southwestern corner Hungarian National
(Assump tion Day). and the two-storey Anthem, written in
sacristy at the north- 1823. An exhibition
In 1696 an icon of the Virgin eastern side. Two in the Cultural Centre
Mary in the twin-domed Greek István Báthorys rest commemorates the
Catholic church in Máriapócs here: the Lord Chief time Kölcsey spent in
was seen weeping. The icon Justice of Hungary and Szatmárcseke.
was immediately taken to author of psalms in a Some 10 km
Vienna (to St Stephen’s Cathe- stone tomb and, next (6 miles) south, on the
dral) and replaced with a replica. to him, under red banks of the River Túr,
When the replica wept again in marble, the earlier is the tiny village of
1715 and in 1905, the fate of Count István Báthory. Túristvándi, known
Máriapócs as a place of for its 18th-century
pilgrimage was sealed. Today, as E István Báthory Fresco from the wooden water mill.
many as one million Catholics Museum Calvinist church Although it is no
make the trip every year, many Károlyi Mihály utca 21. in Csaroda longer used as a
on or around Assumption Day Tel (42) 51 02 18. Open mill, visitors may
(15 August), when the village is Apr–Sep: 10am–6pm Tue–Sun; Oct– see the wheels and the
literally besieged by the faithful. Mar: 8am–4pm Mon–Fri, weekends millstones at work.
by appointment. 8 Hungarian (in
E Greek Catholic church German by prior arrangement). 7
Kossuth tér 25. Tel (42) 38 51 42.
Open 7:30am–7pm. 7
a Csaroda
p Nyírbátor 15 km (9 miles) east of Vásáros-
namény. Road Map G2. * 560.
36 km (22 miles) from Nyíregyháza. @ from Vásárosnamény, Tákos,
Road Map G3. * 12,500. £ from Fehérgyarmat.
Nyíregyháza, Debrecen. @ from
Nyíregyháza, Debrecen. Standing on a hill surrounded
by Csaroda Creek, the Calvinist
This small town is inextricably Church at Csaroda was built
linked to the notoriously in late Romanesque style in
bloody Báthory family, who the 13th century. In 1640, its
owned it in the Middle Ages. walls were whitewashed
Besides bloodlust and murder, and decorated with flowers.
however, the Báthorys left two Restoration of the church
magnificent churches to revealed the original medieval
Nyírbátor’s citizens. One of frescoes depicting Saints Peter Boat-shaped grave markers in the cemetery
these, a Roman Catholic and Paul, among others. in Szatmárcseke




256-257_EW_Hungary.indd 257 18/09/17 3:38 pm

258  HUNGAR Y REGION B Y REGION THE GREA T PLAIN  259

i Nyíregyháza part, however, is the impressive VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
transept, with the figures of the
A vibrant university town, Nyíregyháza is a charming place four Evangelists in the bays of Practical Information
and its trio of churches and synagogue make it a great the arches. Road Map F3. * 118,000.
n Tourisztikai Információs
destination for lovers of ecclesiastical architecture. Centred R Lutheran Church Központ, Kossuth tér 1, (42) 31 07
on a large, leafy and bustling pedestrianized square, the Evangélikus templom 35. Open Open-Air Village
city, with its large population of college students, is Luther utca 1. Tel (42) 50 87 70. Museum: Apr–Sep: 10am–6pm;
particularly lively during term time. Only a short way Open 9am–5pm Mon-Fri. & donation. Oct: 10am–5pm Tue–Sun.
( daily, Búza tér. _ Vidor
north of Nyíre gyháza is the spa resort of Sóstógyógyfürdő, Key at vicarage next door if locked. Festival (late Aug–early Sep).
home to one of the country’s best village museums. The largest church in the city, The vibrant Ark of Covenant at Nyíregyháza's synagogue
on its highest point, is the Transport
Lutheran Church, reflect ing Byzantine and Baroque, it was unfussy façade bear witness £ from Buda pest, Debrecen.
P Kossuth Square and the impor tance of the Refor- hit by a Soviet bomb at the to the birth of Mini malism. @ from Debre cen.
Town Hall mation in this part of Hungary end of World War II, and had to The murals on the walls inside
Városháza (see p44). Designed by the Italian be extensively rebuilt. Miracu- depicting the night sky and
Kossuth tér 1. Town Hall: (42) 52 Giuseppe Aprilis, it was built in lously, the highly ornamented biblical scenes were painted
45 01. 7 the Neo-Baroque style in 1784– iconostasis featuring St Nicholas by Pál Szalay, a local artist and activities are organized: craft
The heart of Nyíregyháza is a 6. The church entrance has four survived intact. The nearby teacher. On an outside wall a fairs, dancing and concerts.
very pleasant public square. It Neo-Classical marble columns. Bishop’s Palace holds a long plaque commemorates The Aquanus Spa and the
was completely rejuvenated Inside, the walls are adorned priceless collection of Greek the Nyíregyháza Jews killed Sóstó Zoo are also worth a visit.
by much redevelopment at with pain tings and the main Catholic religious artifacts. in the Holocaust.
the end of the 1990s and is altar, from the Greek Catholic
now pedestrianized. There are church in Máriapócs (see p257), u Synagogue Environs
statues and play areas, terraces is richly carved. Zsinagóga Opened in 1979 the Open-Air
and cafés, and even an old Mártírok tere 6. Tel (42) 41 79 39. Village Museum at Sóstó-
tramcar for children to climb E András Jósa Museum Open by appointment only, Tue–Thu. gyógyfürdő, a spa town 7 km
aboard. It is surrounded on The spectacular entrance of the Great Jósa András Múzeum & 8 7 (4 miles) north of Nyíregyháza,
three sides by colourful Catholic Church Benczúr tér 21. Tel (42) 31 57 22. Nyíregyháza’s synagogue is is famous for its beautiful rural
buildings, the most impressive Open Apr–Oct: 9am–5pm Tue–Sun; a beautifully simple building architecture. More than 50
of which is the very yellow, Neo- R Great Catholic Church Nov–Mar: 8am–4pm Tue–Sun. & whose outside walls are devoid buildings (houses, a school,
Classical Town Hall, dating from Római katolikus templom 8 Hungarian only. of any real decoration. Built in a shop, a pub, a fire station)
1842 and orig inally designed Kossuth tér 4. Tel (42) 40 96 91. Local painter Gyula Benczúr and 1924–32 to the plans of Lipót represent the regional styles. Inside a house at the Open-Air Village
by Károly Benkó. The low balcony Open 6am–6:30pm daily (to 6pm writer Gyula Krúdy star at this Baumhorn, its straight lines and In summer, a wide range of Museum at Sóstógyógyfürdő
that is its outstanding feature Oct–Apr). 7 fascinating museum, named
today was added 30 years later, This red-brick Catholic church after András Jósa, a wealthy
during a face-lift carried out in was built in 1902–4. Designed local scientist who owned the Nyíregyháza City Centre SÓSTÓGYÓGYFÜRDŐ
1871. On the other side of the by local architect Virgil Nagy, building. Born in Nyíregyháza in 1 Kossuth Square and Town Hall Market VASVÁRI PÁL UTCA
square is the forget-me-not its twin bell towers reflect the 1844, Benczúr spent little of his 2 Great Catholic Church KOSSUTH UTCA
blue, early Secessionist Corona steep wooden bell towers life here, although the museum 3 Lutheran Church BUZA TÉR R ÁKÓCZI U T C A VAY Á D Á M K Ö R Ú T
Hotel, designed by Ignác common on older churches in honours him with a permanent 4 András Jósa Museum OKTÓBER 23.
Alpár and opened in 1895. The the northern part of the Great exhibition devoted to his life 5 Greek Catholic Church and TÉR JÓKAI
building does, however, look Plain. The plain interior of the and work (note that most of his Bishop’s Palace Ú J U T C A MARTIROK TÉR
TERE
far better from the out side church is lit by the stained-glass paintings are in The Hungarian 6 Synagogue
than from within. windows. The most beautiful National Gallery in Budapest, Synagogue County HŐSÖK D Ó Z S A G Y Ö R G Y U T C A
Hall
TERE
see pp62–3). Krúdy, famous SZABADSAG
TÉR
the world over for his novel The V Í Z U T C A
Adventures of Sinbad (1918), was S Í P U T C A E GY H ÁZ U T C A
a chronicler of Buda pest. The Zsigmond
Móricz
museum displays all his first Town Library
editions, newspaper articles Greek Catholic Church Hall KOSSUTH Great
and Bishop’s Palace
and other memorabilia. TÉR Catholic
B E T H L EN G Á B O R U TCA Church
KÁLVIN B OC S KA I U T CA
R Greek Catholic Church TÉR ZRÍNYI UTCA
& Bishop’s Palace
Görög Katolikus templom és L U THE R U T CA
Egyházművészeti Gyűjtemény S ZÍ N H Á Z UT C A BESSENYEI ORSZÁGZÁSZLÓ SZENT ISTVA N UTCA
Bethlen Gábor utca 5. Tel (42) 50 00 06. TÉR TÉR
Open 8am–4pm Mon–Fri (get key 0 metres 200 Nyírvíz ISK O LA UT C A LUTHER
TÉR
from Sacristy next door). & museum. M ALOM U T CA Palota
0 yards 200 S ZÉCHENYI UTCA Lutheran
This eclectic Greek Catholic KÜ R T Church
church was designed and built Bus Station BENCZUR András Jósa S Z A R VA S UT C A UTCA DEBRECEN
Museum
700 m (770 yards)
by Vojtovits and Baczó, and TÉR
Kossuth Square, and the yellow Neo-Classical town hall completed in 1897. Combining Train Station
1.2 km (0.7 miles)
For hotels and restaurants see pp264–269 and pp276–285 For keys to map symbols see back flap
258-259_EW_Hungary.indd 258 18/09/17 3:38 pm 258-259_EW_Hungary.indd 259 18/09/17 3:38 pm

THE GREA T PLAIN  259


VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Road Map F3. * 118,000.
n Tourisztikai Információs
Központ, Kossuth tér 1, (42) 31 07
35. Open Open-Air Village
Museum: Apr–Sep: 10am–6pm;
Oct: 10am–5pm Tue–Sun.
( daily, Búza tér. _ Vidor
Festival (late Aug–early Sep).
The vibrant Ark of Covenant at Nyíregyháza's synagogue
Transport
Byzantine and Baroque, it was unfussy façade bear witness £ from Buda pest, Debrecen.
hit by a Soviet bomb at the to the birth of Mini malism. @ from Debre cen.
end of World War II, and had to The murals on the walls inside
be extensively rebuilt. Miracu- depicting the night sky and
lously, the highly ornamented biblical scenes were painted
iconostasis featuring St Nicholas by Pál Szalay, a local artist and activities are organized: craft
survived intact. The nearby teacher. On an outside wall a fairs, dancing and concerts.
Bishop’s Palace holds a long plaque commemorates The Aquanus Spa and the
priceless collection of Greek the Nyíregyháza Jews killed Sóstó Zoo are also worth a visit.
Catholic religious artifacts. in the Holocaust.
u Synagogue Environs
Zsinagóga Opened in 1979 the Open-Air
Mártírok tere 6. Tel (42) 41 79 39. Village Museum at Sóstó-
Open by appointment only, Tue–Thu. gyógyfürdő, a spa town 7 km
& 8 7 (4 miles) north of Nyíregyháza,
Nyíregyháza’s synagogue is is famous for its beautiful rural
a beautifully simple building architecture. More than 50
whose outside walls are devoid buildings (houses, a school,
of any real decoration. Built in a shop, a pub, a fire station)
1924–32 to the plans of Lipót represent the regional styles. Inside a house at the Open-Air Village
Baumhorn, its straight lines and In summer, a wide range of Museum at Sóstógyógyfürdő

Nyíregyháza City Centre SÓSTÓGYÓGYFÜRDŐ
1 Kossuth Square and Town Hall Market VASVÁRI PÁL UTCA
2 Great Catholic Church KOSSUTH UTCA
3 Lutheran Church BUZA TÉR R ÁKÓCZI U T C A VAY Á D Á M K Ö R Ú T
4 András Jósa Museum OKTÓBER 23.
TÉR
5 Greek Catholic Church and Ú J U T C A MARTIROK JÓKAI
TÉR
Bishop’s Palace TERE
6 Synagogue Synagogue County HŐSÖK D Ó Z S A G Y Ö R G Y U T C A
Hall
TERE
V Í Z U T C A S Í P U T C A SZABADSAG
TÉR
Zsigmond
Móricz
Town Library
E GY H ÁZ U T C A
Greek Catholic Church Hall
and Bishop’s Palace KOSSUTH Great
TÉR Catholic
B E T H L EN G Á B O R U TCA Church
KÁLVIN B OC S KA I U T CA
TÉR ZRÍNYI UTCA
S ZÍ N H Á Z UT C A BESSENYEI ORSZÁGZÁSZLÓ L U THE R U T CA SZENT ISTVA N UTCA
TÉR TÉR
LUTHER
0 metres 200 M ALOM U T CA Nyírvíz ISK O LA UT C A TÉR
Palota
0 yards 200 S ZÉCHENYI UTCA Lutheran
Church
Bus Station András Jósa S Z A R VA S UT C A KÜ R T
700 m (770 yards) Museum DEBRECEN
BENCZUR UTCA
TÉR
Train Station
1.2 km (0.7 miles)
For keys to map symbols see back flap
258-259_EW_Hungary.indd 259 18/09/17 3:38 pm

TRAVELLERS’


NEEDS





Where to Stay 262–269

Where to Eat and Drink 270–285
Shopping in Hungary 286–287
Entertainment in Hungary 288–289
Sports and Activities
in Hungary 290–293













































Hun_260-261.indd 260 17/02/2015 12:45 Hun_260-261.indd 261 17/02/2015 12:45

TRAVELLERS’


NEEDS





Where to Stay 262–269

Where to Eat and Drink 270–285
Shopping in Hungary 286–287
Entertainment in Hungary 288–289
Sports and Activities
in Hungary 290–293













































Hun_260-261.indd 261 17/02/2015 12:45

262  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS WHERE T O ST A Y  263

WHERE TO STAY the country, though there’s a
particularly large cluster around
Hungary offers accommodation to cater for all business in Hungary too. Choice is, of course, Lake Balaton; these range from
tastes and pockets, from the smallest, family- greatest in the capital, Budapest, where there large, local authority-run sites to
run pension to the largest and most luxurious has also been an explosion in the number of smaller sites, often in someone’s
five-star hotels, with all the international design, or boutique, hotels, which are often garden (especially around
Balaton in high season) – better
chains represented. Many hotels have their far more competitively priced than their sites typically have a restaurant,
own spa centres, providing on-site beauty, luxury counterparts. Outside the capital there shop, sports facilities and a play
hydrotherapy and massage treatments for is less choice, although most towns have area. Campsites do not usually
guests. In addition there are hundreds of one or two large, imperial-era hotels and a hire out tents, though some
campsites and youth hostels throughout number of pensions. The exception is Lake have small and basic bungalows
for rent. The Hungarian National
the country with facilities for the budget- Balaton, where the popular resorts boast Tourist Office has full details
conscious; private accommodation is big hotels to rival Budapest. of the country’s campsites,
with information on what
services they provide. Note The airy, welcoming reception at the Cotton House hotel (see p264) in Budapest
Hotels
rooms in the two-star category that camping is only permitted
Budapest’s stock of have their own bath or shower, in designated areas. offer bed and breakfast (and aesthetic. Another theme is
accommodation is now as while rooms in one-star hotels often an evening meal) in spa hotels, entirely appropriate
exciting and varied as in any simply have washbasins with comfortable surrounds and at given that Hungary is blessed
other European capital, with hot and cold running water. Youth Hostels low prices. In Budapest, many with so many thermal springs.
luxury and design hotels Hungary has over 100 registered are, in fact, large houses in the On the outskirts of Budapest,
leading the way – such as the Rates and Reservations youth hostels (ifjúsági szálló), suburbs, often with gardens – and prevalent throughout
magnificent Gresham Palace – though these are mostly con- a good choice for families the rest of the country, are
closely followed by the grand Accommodation in Hungary fined to the larger towns and travelling on a fixed budget. pensions, which provide a
spa hotels, like the Gellért. Also generally represents decent cities, in particular Budapest, Another popular budget option cheaper, more restful option.
in the capital, and elsewhere value for money. Inevitably, which is bursting with them. is private accommodation – The last theme is hostels, the
throughout the country, you’ll prices are highest in Budapest, In most places, dormitory either a room or an apartment – biggest and best concentration
find plenty of hotels occupying closely followed by Lake accommodation is which can be booked on the which is, inevitably, in Budapest.
formerly grand buildings, such Balaton, though many hotels complemented by Hungarian Tourist Where somewhere has an
as the Brody House in Budapest offer greatly reduced rates twin- or double- Office’s website exceptional feature, or perhaps
or the La Contessa Kastélyhotel for booking in advance, or for bedded en-suite (see p297) or an out standing view or
in Szilvásvárad. Most hotels have staying at the weekend or in Creatively decorated accommodation at rooms, while most through agencies impeccable service, it has been
official star-ratings, but note low season. Rates peak from Baltazár (see p264), in Budapest hostels would such as IBUSZ designated a DK Choice.
that Hungary’s stars roughly around mid-June to Sep- have, at the very Private Accom­
equate to one star less in tember, except in Budapest, resort tax are included in the least, a kitchen Sign for Leo Panzio pension modation DIRECTORY
Western Europe; at the luxury where rates are consistent – price of a room, although a and common (see p265) in Central Pest Service,
end, all rooms have a bathroom, that said, prices are ramped up 30 per cent surcharge is usually area. A dorm bed Airbnb and Central Booking
telephone, TV, refrigerator, air- significantly for the Hungarian levied for stays of less than typically costs around 3,000– Balatontourist, all of which Hotels Online Hungary
conditioning and Wi-Fi, along Grand Prix in July/August, three days in some resorts 4,500 forints (€10–15) outside have extensive listings. ∑ hotelonlinehungary.com
with requisite services – 24-hour marginally less so for the and in private accommodation. the capital, slightly more in Otherwise, you’ll see plenty
service, fitness facilities and the Spring Festival in March. Breakfast is usually, but not Budapest itself. Bookings are best of signs (szoba kiadó and Youth Hostels
like. Three-star hotels usually Booking a room in advance always, included in the price. made online via Hostels.com Zimmer frei) on the streets,
have at least one restaurant and is highly recommended, and Invariably, you’ll find the or Hostelworld.com. Most particularly around Balaton. Hostelling International
one bar, and staff are expected is essential in Budapest and at lowest prices on a hotel’s hostels offer small discounts ∑ hihostels.com
to speak at least one foreign Lake Balaton through out the own website, but you could for members of the Hostelling Hostels.com
language. Roughly two-thirds of high season. Both VAT and always try a central online International (HI) association. Recommended Hotels ∑ hostels.com
agency like Hotel Online In many towns, you can also The accommodation listed in Hostelworld.com
Hungary (see Directory). stay in college dormitories this guide is a varied selection ∑ hostelworld.com
Almost all the hotels and (kollégium) during July and of the best types of places to
pensions listed in the Where August, and sometimes at stay in Hungary. There are six Pensions and Private
to Stay section take major weekends during the rest of themes in all, the first of which Accommodation
credit cards (Visa and Master- the year – check with the local is luxury: top-of-the-range Airbnb
Card), but American Express Tourinform office for details. places that incorporate all the ∑ airbnb.hu
and Diners Club are less facilities and comfort you’d
frequently accepted. expect of a four- or five-star hotel. Balatontourist
Pensions and Private Historic hotels are those that Tel (88) 544 400.
Accommodation occupy distinguished buildings, ∑ balatontourist.hu
Camping
Hungary’s network of pensions of which Hungary has many – a IBUSZ Private
Camping is enormously popular (panzió) is large and legendary, Baroque manor or castle, perhaps Accommodation Service
in Hungary, and there are and there’s at least one in every – while design hotels are typically Tel (1) 485 27 67.
more than 200 well-equipped town and village in the country. smaller, more intimate places ∑ ibusz.hu
Entrance to the art’otel Hotel (see p265), in Budapest campsites (kemping) all over These family-run establishments manifesting a cool, contemporary
The famous Széchenyi themal bath complex in Budapest



262-263_EW_Hungary.indd 262 18/09/17 3:41 pm 262-263_EW_Hungary.indd 263 14/11/2017 16:49

WHERE T O ST A Y  263


the country, though there’s a
particularly large cluster around
Lake Balaton; these range from
large, local authority-run sites to
smaller sites, often in someone’s
garden (especially around
Balaton in high season) – better
sites typically have a restaurant,
shop, sports facilities and a play
area. Campsites do not usually
hire out tents, though some
have small and basic bungalows
for rent. The Hungarian National
Tourist Office has full details
of the country’s campsites,
with information on what
services they provide. Note The airy, welcoming reception at the Cotton House hotel (see p264) in Budapest
that camping is only permitted
in designated areas. offer bed and breakfast (and aesthetic. Another theme is
often an evening meal) in spa hotels, entirely appropriate
comfortable surrounds and at given that Hungary is blessed
Youth Hostels
low prices. In Budapest, many with so many thermal springs.
Hungary has over 100 registered are, in fact, large houses in the On the outskirts of Budapest,
youth hostels (ifjúsági szálló), suburbs, often with gardens – and prevalent throughout
though these are mostly con- a good choice for families the rest of the country, are
fined to the larger towns and travelling on a fixed budget. pensions, which provide a
cities, in particular Budapest, Another popular budget option cheaper, more restful option.
which is bursting with them. is private accommodation – The last theme is hostels, the
In most places, dormitory either a room or an apartment – biggest and best concentration
accommodation is which can be booked on the which is, inevitably, in Budapest.
complemented by Hungarian Tourist Where somewhere has an
twin- or double- Office’s website exceptional feature, or perhaps
bedded en-suite (see p297) or an out standing view or
rooms, while most through agencies impeccable service, it has been
hostels would such as IBUSZ designated a DK Choice.
have, at the very Private Accom­
least, a kitchen Sign for Leo Panzio pension modation DIRECTORY
and common (see p265) in Central Pest Service,
area. A dorm bed Airbnb and Central Booking
typically costs around 3,000– Balatontourist, all of which Hotels Online Hungary
4,500 forints (€10–15) outside have extensive listings. ∑ hotelonlinehungary.com
the capital, slightly more in Otherwise, you’ll see plenty
Budapest itself. Bookings are best of signs (szoba kiadó and Youth Hostels
made online via Hostels.com Zimmer frei) on the streets,
or Hostelworld.com. Most particularly around Balaton. Hostelling International
hostels offer small discounts ∑ hihostels.com
for members of the Hostelling Hostels.com
International (HI) association. Recommended Hotels ∑ hostels.com
In many towns, you can also The accommodation listed in Hostelworld.com
stay in college dormitories this guide is a varied selection ∑ hostelworld.com
(kollégium) during July and of the best types of places to
August, and sometimes at stay in Hungary. There are six Pensions and Private
weekends during the rest of themes in all, the first of which Accommodation
the year – check with the local is luxury: top-of-the-range Airbnb
Tourinform office for details. places that incorporate all the ∑ airbnb.hu
facilities and comfort you’d
expect of a four- or five-star hotel. Balatontourist
Pensions and Private Historic hotels are those that Tel (88) 544 400.
Accommodation occupy distinguished buildings, ∑ balatontourist.hu
Hungary’s network of pensions of which Hungary has many – a IBUSZ Private
(panzió) is large and legendary, Baroque manor or castle, perhaps Accommodation Service
and there’s at least one in every – while design hotels are typically Tel (1) 485 27 67.
town and village in the country. smaller, more intimate places ∑ ibusz.hu
These family-run establishments manifesting a cool, contemporary




262-263_EW_Hungary.indd 263 14/11/2017 16:49

264  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS WHERE T O ST A Y  265

Where to Stay Lavender Circus Map 4 E1 Buddha Bar Klotild Palace 

Hostel
Map 4 D1
Historic
Gellért Hill & Tabán Price Guide Múzeum körút 37 Váci utca 34
Tel (70) 417 77 63
Tel (1) 799 73 00
Budapest Ábel Panzió  Prices are based on one night’s stay in ∑ lavendercircus.com ∑ buddhabarhotelbudapest.com
high season for a standard double room,
Castle District Pension inclusive of service charges and taxes. Imaginatively conceived, this Occupying the magnificent
hostel/hotel is decorated with
former palace, this place is almost
Ábel Jenő utca 9
Baltazár  Tel (1) 209 25 37  up to 25,000 HUF vintage furniture, artwork and overwhelming in its opulence.
Design Map 1 A4 ∑ abelpanzio.hu  25,000 to 50,000 HUF goldfish tanks.
Országház utca 31 Ten rooms of considerable charm,  over 50,000 HUF Continental Hotel
Tel (1) 300 70 51 as well as a drawing room and Leo Panzió  Budapest 
∑ baltazarbudapest.com garden terrace, are on offer at Radisson Blu Béke  Pension Map 4 E1 Spa Map 2 F5
Decadent, arty rooms inspired by this early 1900s villa. Historic Map 2 E3 Kossuth Lajos utca 2/a Dohány utca 42
the likes of Warhol and Westwood, Teréz körút 43 Tel (1) 266 90 41 Tel (1) 815 10 00
with clever extras: the music Danubius Hotel Gellért  Tel (1) 889 39 00 ∑ leopanzio.hu ∑ continentalhotelbudapest.com
systems link into your smartphone. Spa Map 4 D3 ∑ radissonblu.com Stay in modest yet comfortable Art Deco-inspired hotel with
Szent Gellért tér 1 The elegantly restored Radisson rooms in an impressive location. great amenities, not least a
Hotel Castle Garden  Tel (1) 889 55 00 Blu Beke offers well-equipped Great views of the streets below. rooftop garden with pool. More than a touch of Italianate glamour
Design Map 1 A5 ∑ danubiushotels.com rooms with all the latest facilities. at the Boscolo Budapest
Lovas út 41 This legendary spa hotel has Nemzeti  Corinthia Grand Hotel 
Tel (1) 224 74 20 indoor and outdoor pools and an DK Choice Historic Map 2 F5 Luxury Map 2 F5 Aquincum Hotel 
∑ castlegarden.hu array of treatments, though the József körút 4 Erzsébet körút 43 Spa
A lovely property with cosy rooms, rooms have seen grander days. Four Seasons Tel (1) 477 45 00 Tel (1) 479 40 00 Árpád fejedelem útja 94
Castle Garden is well regarded Gresham Palace  ∑ hotel-nemzeti-budapest.hu ∑ corinthia.com Tel (1) 436 41 00
for its excellent level of service. Luxury Map 1 C5 Concealed behind the powder- From the glittering lobby to the ∑ aquincumhotel.com
Around Parliament Széchenyi István tér 5-6 blue façade lies a grand staircase mahogany-furnished rooms, Located in a prime spot along the
DK Choice Aventura Boutique Hostel  Tel (1) 268 60 00 leading to sumptuous rooms. the Corinthia oozes class. Danube, this massive hotel has a
Hostel
∑ fourseasons.com
host of facilities, including pools,
Map 2 D3
Buda Castle Visegrádi utca 12 This splendidly refurbished, Bohem Art Hotel  Soho  fitness studio and steam baths.
Fashion Hotel  Tel (1) 239 07 82 magnificent building is now Design Map 4 D2 Design Map 2 F5
Historic Map 1 A4 ∑ aventurahostelbudapest.com one of the finest hotels in Molnár utca 35 Dohány utca 64 art’otel 
Úri utca 39 Each of the four fantastic loft central Europe. The rooms are Tel (1) 327 90 20 Tel (1) 872 82 92 Design
Tel (1) 224 79 00 rooms at this agreeable, family-run luxurious, the staff impeccable ∑ bohemarthotel.hu ∑ sohoboutiquehotel.com Viziváros, Bem rkp. 16–19
∑ budacastlehotelbudapest.com hostel are decorated to reflect and the whole place a real treat. A former factory is converted A spectacular Pop Art lobby leads Tel (1) 487 94 87
This sublime 15th-century a different country or culture. into a high-class boutique hotel to funkily designed rooms with ∑ artotels.com/budapest
merchant’s house has been with creatively designed rooms. Swedish hardwood floors. Rooms are individually decorated
converted into one of the city’s Cotton House  K&K Hotel Opera  using artworks and designs by
leading hotels, presenting a mix Design Map 2 E3 Luxury Map 2 E5 Brody House  Further Afield artist Donald Sultan.
of smartly furnished, spacious Jókai utca 26 Révay utca 24 Design Map 4 E1
rooms and luxurious mini- Tel (30) 184 11 28 Tel (1) 269 02 22 Bródy Sándor utca 10 Alfréd Panzió  Mamaison Hotel Andrássy 
suites; the highlight, though, Featuring some of the best and ∑ kkhotels.com Tel (1) 266 12 11 Pension Luxury
is breakfast in the impeccably most thoughtfully decorated Behind the splendid façade the ∑ brodyhouse.com Vasút sor 20 Andrássy út 111
manicured garden courtyard. rooms anywhere in the capital, rooms are modern, immaculately Fashioned into a super-cool retreat, Tel (1) 436 93 16 Tel (1) 462 21 00
Cotton House is themed around turned out and incredibly spacious. Brody House offers idiosyncratic, This family pension is conveniently ∑ mamaison.com
America’s Jazz Age. artistically themed rooms. located half way between the city Elegance and charm abound at
Hilton Hotel  Central Pest centre and the Szentendre town. this tasteful hotel, which exudes
Luxury Map 1 B4 Home Made Hostel  Casati Budapest Hotel  a certain French chic style.
Hess András tér 1–3 Hostel Map 2 E4 Danubius Astoria Hotel  Historic Map 2 E5 Beatrix Panzió 
Tel (1) 889 66 00 Teréz körút 22 Historic Map 4 E1 Paulay Ede utca 31 Pension Mirage Medic Hotel 
∑ placeshilton.com Tel (1) 302 21 03 Kossuth Lajos utca 19–21 Tel (1) 343 11 98 Széher út 3 Design
Boasting characterful features ∑ homemadehostel.com Tel (1) 889 60 00 ∑ casatibudapesthotel.com Tel (1) 275 05 50 Dózsa György út 88
and modern comforts, this hotel Superbly conceived, this rustically ∑ danubiushotels.com An 18th-century apartment ∑ beatrixhotel.hu Tel (1) 400 61 58
is set high above the Danube. styled hostel has bags of charm This grand, Secessionist-style block featuring comfortable Take part in the regular grill and ∑ miragehotelbudapest.com
and first-rate facilities including hotel features fine rooms and rooms with stripped-back walls goulash parties held in the pretty A 19th-century villa tastefully
Lánchíd 19  a fabulous kitchen. a Neo-Baroque breakfast room. overlooking a pretty courtyard. garden of this inviting pension. converted into a beautiful hotel
Design Map 3 C1 overlooking Heroes’ Square.
Lánchíd utca 19 Hotel Palazzo Zichy  Buda Villa Panzió 
Tel (1) 419 19 00 Historic Map 4 F2 Pension
∑ lanchid19hotel.hu Lőrinc pap tér 2 Kiss Áron utca 6 DK Choice
Enjoy the superb waterside Tel (1) 235 40 00 Tel (1) 275 00 91 Boscolo Budapest 
location, with glass walkways and ∑ hotel-palazzo-zichy.hu ∑ budapansio.hu Historic Map 2 F5
individually themed rooms. Even This flamboyant, fantastically run Ten tidy rooms complement the Erzsébet körút 9–11
the staff wear designer clothes. hotel was the one-time residence enjoyable lounge bar, but the Tel (1) 886 61 11
of the eponymous Count. best aspect is the lush garden. ∑ budapest.boscolohotels.com
St George’s Residence Built in 1894 and restored by
Hotel  Zara Boutique  Dominik Panzió  the Italian Boscolo group, the
Historic Map 1 A4 Design Map 4 E2 Pension rooms here are the height of
Fortuna utca 4 Só utca 6 Cházár András utca 3 luxury, while the main hall is
Tel (1) 393 57 00 Tel (1) 920 21 00 Tel (1) 460 94 28 something to marvel at. Once
∑ stgeorgehotel.hu ∑ boutiquehotelbudapest.com ∑ dominikpanzio.hu a hub of literary life, the gilded
A former medieval inn is now Modestly sized but impressively The private, dormitory-style domes of the Coffee House
a stunning selection of suites turned out rooms at this rooms here are clean and simple. make a perfect spot to unwind.
furnished in Grand Empire style. Budget accommodation with style at the Aventura Boutique Hostel conveniently central hotel. Bathrooms are shared.
For more information on types of hotels see pp262–3
264-269_EW_Hungary.indd 264 19/09/17 10:40 am 264-269_EW_Hungary.indd 265 19/09/17 10:40 am

WHERE T O ST A Y  265

Lavender Circus  Buddha Bar Klotild Palace 
Hostel Map 4 E1 Historic Map 4 D1
Múzeum körút 37 Váci utca 34
Tel (70) 417 77 63 Tel (1) 799 73 00
∑ lavendercircus.com ∑ buddhabarhotelbudapest.com
Imaginatively conceived, this Occupying the magnificent
hostel/hotel is decorated with former palace, this place is almost
vintage furniture, artwork and overwhelming in its opulence.
goldfish tanks.
Continental Hotel
Leo Panzió  Budapest 
Pension Map 4 E1 Spa Map 2 F5
Kossuth Lajos utca 2/a Dohány utca 42
Tel (1) 266 90 41 Tel (1) 815 10 00
∑ leopanzio.hu ∑ continentalhotelbudapest.com
Stay in modest yet comfortable Art Deco-inspired hotel with
rooms in an impressive location. great amenities, not least a
Great views of the streets below. rooftop garden with pool. More than a touch of Italianate glamour
at the Boscolo Budapest
Nemzeti  Corinthia Grand Hotel 
Historic Map 2 F5 Luxury Map 2 F5 Aquincum Hotel 
József körút 4 Erzsébet körút 43 Spa
Tel (1) 477 45 00 Tel (1) 479 40 00 Árpád fejedelem útja 94
∑ hotel-nemzeti-budapest.hu ∑ corinthia.com Tel (1) 436 41 00
Concealed behind the powder- From the glittering lobby to the ∑ aquincumhotel.com
blue façade lies a grand staircase mahogany-furnished rooms, Located in a prime spot along the
leading to sumptuous rooms. the Corinthia oozes class. Danube, this massive hotel has a
host of facilities, including pools,
Bohem Art Hotel  Soho  fitness studio and steam baths.
Design Map 4 D2 Design Map 2 F5
Molnár utca 35 Dohány utca 64 art’otel 
Tel (1) 327 90 20 Tel (1) 872 82 92 Design
∑ bohemarthotel.hu ∑ sohoboutiquehotel.com Viziváros, Bem rkp. 16–19
A former factory is converted A spectacular Pop Art lobby leads Tel (1) 487 94 87
into a high-class boutique hotel to funkily designed rooms with ∑ artotels.com/budapest
with creatively designed rooms. Swedish hardwood floors. Rooms are individually decorated
using artworks and designs by
Brody House  Further Afield artist Donald Sultan.
Design Map 4 E1
Bródy Sándor utca 10 Alfréd Panzió  Mamaison Hotel Andrássy 
Tel (1) 266 12 11 Pension Luxury
∑ brodyhouse.com Vasút sor 20 Andrássy út 111
Fashioned into a super-cool retreat, Tel (1) 436 93 16 Tel (1) 462 21 00
Brody House offers idiosyncratic, This family pension is conveniently ∑ mamaison.com
artistically themed rooms. located half way between the city Elegance and charm abound at
centre and the Szentendre town. this tasteful hotel, which exudes
Casati Budapest Hotel  a certain French chic style.
Historic Map 2 E5 Beatrix Panzió 
Paulay Ede utca 31 Pension Mirage Medic Hotel 
Tel (1) 343 11 98 Széher út 3 Design
∑ casatibudapesthotel.com Tel (1) 275 05 50 Dózsa György út 88
An 18th-century apartment ∑ beatrixhotel.hu Tel (1) 400 61 58
block featuring comfortable Take part in the regular grill and ∑ miragehotelbudapest.com
rooms with stripped-back walls goulash parties held in the pretty A 19th-century villa tastefully
overlooking a pretty courtyard. garden of this inviting pension. converted into a beautiful hotel
overlooking Heroes’ Square.
Hotel Palazzo Zichy  Buda Villa Panzió 
Historic Map 4 F2 Pension DK Choice
Lőrinc pap tér 2 Kiss Áron utca 6
Tel (1) 235 40 00 Tel (1) 275 00 91 Boscolo Budapest 
∑ hotel-palazzo-zichy.hu ∑ budapansio.hu Historic Map 2 F5
This flamboyant, fantastically run Ten tidy rooms complement the Erzsébet körút 9–11
hotel was the one-time residence enjoyable lounge bar, but the Tel (1) 886 61 11
of the eponymous Count. best aspect is the lush garden. ∑ budapest.boscolohotels.com
Built in 1894 and restored by
Zara Boutique  Dominik Panzió  the Italian Boscolo group, the
Design Map 4 E2 Pension rooms here are the height of
Só utca 6 Cházár András utca 3 luxury, while the main hall is
Tel (1) 920 21 00 Tel (1) 460 94 28 something to marvel at. Once
∑ boutiquehotelbudapest.com ∑ dominikpanzio.hu a hub of literary life, the gilded
Modestly sized but impressively The private, dormitory-style domes of the Coffee House
turned out rooms at this rooms here are clean and simple. make a perfect spot to unwind.
conveniently central hotel. Bathrooms are shared.
For more information on types of hotels see pp262–3
264-269_EW_Hungary.indd 265 19/09/17 10:40 am

266  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS WHERE T O ST A Y  267

SZENTENDRE: GYŐR: Hotel Klastrom  DK Choice BALATONFÜRED: rooms with gigantic beds, superb
Mathias Rex Panzió  Historic Road Map B3 Blaha Lujza Hotel  swimming pools and an endless
Pension Road Map D3 Zechmeister utca 1 SOPRON: Hotel Wollner  Historic Road Map B4 range of curative treatments.
Kossuth utca 16 Tel (96) 51 69 10 Luxury Road Map A3 Blaha utca 4
Tel (26) 50 55 70 ∑ klastrom.hu Templom utca 20 Tel (87) 58 12 10 HÉVÍZ: Park Hotel 
∑ mathiasrexhotel.hu In an 18th-century priory; the Tel (99) 52 44 00 ∑ hotelblaha.hu Spa Road Map B4
Large, fashionable rooms with monks’ cells are now elegant, if ∑ wollner.hu Former summer home of the Petőfi utca 26
big beds and gleaming bathrooms somewhat spartan, rooms. A superb 18th-century building erstwhile singer, this Neo-Classical Tel (83) 34 11 90
are on offer at this classy, modern in the heart of the Belvaros, villa offers smart rooms. ∑ parkhotelheviz.hu
pension. Good restaurant too. GYŐR: Hotel Schweizerhof  this hotel oozes class; rooms This elegant hotel is housed in
Luxury Road Map B3 have handsome beds, oak BALATONFÜRED: two villas linked by a walkway,
VISEGRÁD: Hotel Vár  Sarkantyú köz 11 bureaus and splashes of art- Anna Grand Hotel  with comprehensive facilities
Historic Road Map C3 Tel (96) 51 23 58 work. It also boasts a beautiful Luxury Road Map B4 including sauna and Jacuzzi.
Fő utca 9 ∑ schweizerhof.hu inner garden court yard where Gyógy tér 1
Tel (26) 39 75 22 A fine hotel with a lobby on guests can kick back with a Tel (87) 58 12 00 KESZTHELY: Barbara Panzió 
∑ varhotel.hu each floor and individually styled, glass of wine. ∑ annagrandhotel.hu Pension Road Map B4
An erstwhile hunting lodge is designer-furnished rooms. This is the lake’s most opulent Zámor utca 2
turned into a handsome riverfront hotel, from the cool marble lobby Tel (83) 31 98 65
hotel, with nice touches such as KŐSZEG: Arany Strucc  SZÉKESFEHÉRVÁR: to the immaculate airy rooms. ∑ barbara-pension.hu
Rooms at the Centrum Panzió, Szentendre, floor rugs and wood-framed prints. Historic Road Map A3 Budai Panzió  In an enviable location just a
are decorated in natural tones Várkör utca 124 Pension Road Map C4 BALATONLELLE: Viktoria  stone’s throw from the lake, this
Tel (94) 36 03 23 Budai ut 286 Pension Road Map B4 jolly place has an enticing pool
∑ aranystrucc.hu Tel (22) 78 95 69 Szent István út 13 and garden.
Around Budapest Northern Thought to date from the 1590s, ∑ budaivendeghaz.eu Tel (85) 55 50 07
Transdanubia the “Golden Ostrich” has simple Just out of the centre, homely A few paces from the railway halt, KESZTHELY: Tokajer Panzió 
ESZTERGOM: rooms but oodles of character. rooms and a welcoming ambience the polished, well-furnished rooms Pension Road Map B4
Alabárdos Panzió  BÜK: Danubius Health are the main draws here; the in this tidy pension are top value. Apát utca 21
Pension Road Map C3 Spa Resort  KŐSZEG: Portré Panzió  breakfast is also terrific. Tel (70) 615 32 33
Bajcsy-Zsilinszky út 49 Spa Road Map A3 Pension Road Map A3 FONYÓD: Boros Castle  ∑ pensiontokajer.hu
Tel (33) 31 26 40 Európa út 1 Fő tér 7 SZÉKESFEHÉRVÁR: Historic Road Map B4 Charmingly old-fashioned
∑ alabardospanzio.hu Tel (94) 88 94 00 Tel (94) 36 31 70 Hotel Szárcsa  Csisztai út 10 rooms – each with a terrace
This Mediterranean-style villa ∑ danubiushotels.com ∑ portre.com Luxury Road Map C4 Tel (85) 36 04 58 or balcony – are spread across
features eclectically styled rooms This top-end spa resort offers Stylish pension with vivid red Szárcsa utca 1 ∑ boroskastely.hu three adjoining buildings.
in two adjacent buildings. beautiful rooms and a choice of rooms, subtly furnished in wood Tel (22) 32 57 00 Apartments here are surrounded
indoor and outdoor pools. with smart rugs. ∑ szarcsa.hu by delightful gardens, plus there’s PÉCS: Palatinus Hotel 
ESZTERGOM: Bazilika Panzió  Lovely rooms are decorated with a small pool that’s ideal for families. Historic Road Map C5
Pension Road Map C3 BÜK: Greenfield Hotel MOSONMAGYARÓVÁR: wood-carved antiques and period Király utca 5
Batthyány utca 7 Spa and Golf  Thermal Hotel  furnishings at this classy hotel. HÉVÍZ: Astoria Panzió és Tel (72) 88 94 00
Tel (33) 52 06 85 Spa Road Map A3 Spa Road Map B3 Kávéház  ∑ danubiushotels.com
∑ bazilika.eu Bükfürdő, Golf út 4 Kolbai utca 10 SZOMBATHELY: Pension Road Map B4 A renovated Secession pile,
Gorgeous rooms are painted in Tel (94) 80 16 00 Tel (96) 57 72 30 Hotel Wagner  Rákóczi utca 11 Palatinus Hotel charms with its
soothing cream and beige tones ∑ greenfieldhotel.net ∑ thermal-movar.hu Luxury Road Map A3 Tel (30) 217 73 92 magnificent lobby, Art Nouveau
offset with splashes of burgundy. Superb four-star hotel with This well-regarded hotel has good Kossuth Lajos utca 15 ∑ astoriapanzio.hu ballroom, sumptuous rooms and a
Sauna and Jacuzzi too. exemplary service, and high-class sized rooms, most with garden Tel (94) 32 22 08 This homely pension near the sparkling basement spa and sauna.
pampering – and, of course, golf. views, and lots of treatments. ∑ hotelwagner.hu baths has a charming mix of small
ESZTERGOM: Ria Panzió  This small, compact hotel offers and large air-conditioned rooms. SIÓFOK: Renegade-Rózsa
Pension Road Map C3 GYŐR: Fehér Hajó Panzió  SÁRVÁR: Danubius Health beautifully styled rooms with Panzió 
Batthyány utca 11–13 Pension Road Map B3 Spa Resort  lush green carpets and oak desks. HÉVÍZ: Danubius Health Pension Road Map C4
Tel (33) 31 31 15 Kiss Ernő utca 4 Spa Road Map A3 Spa Resort Aqua  Petőfi sétány 4
∑ riapanzio.com Tel (96) 31 76 08 Rákóczi utca 1 TATA: Hotel Kiss  Spa Road Map B4 Tel (84) 31 15 06
Rooms in this welcoming pension ∑ feherhajerpanzio.hu Tel (95) 88 84 00 Luxury Road Map C3 Kossuth Lajos utca 13–15 ∑ renegadehotel.hu
are housed in two buildings, one Spacious, bright rooms and a ∑ danubius.com Bacsó Béla utca 54 Tel (83) 88 95 00 Situated midway between
of which is wheelchair accessible. fabulous buffet breakfast are Indoor and outdoor pools, sauna, Tel (34) 58 68 88 ∑ danubiushotels.com the station and the beach, this
offered at this cheery pension. gym and a host of wellness ∑ hotel-kiss.hu A short walk from Lake Hévíz, this large, peaceful pension has basic
ESZTERGOM: options are offered at this resort. Magnificently appointed rooms, spa resort features luxurious rooms and apartments on offer.
Szent Anna Panzió  GYŐR: Golden Ball  as well as a stunning indoor pool
Pension Road Map C3 Spa Road Map B3 SOPRON: Jégverem Fogadó  and a host of other amenities
Erzsébet Királyné útja 2 Szent István út 4 Pension Road Map A3 attract guests to this hotel.
Tel (20) 391 44 07 Tel (96) 61 81 00 Jégverem utca 1
∑ szentannapanzio.hu ∑ goldenball.hu Tel (99) 51 01 13
A former watermill, with cosy Vast gym and health spa offering ∑ jegverem.hu
rooms set around a pretty, flower- great-value accommo dation, This converted 18th-century inn is Southern
filled inner courtyard. particularly the split-level rooms named after the old ice pit in the Transdanubia
with raised sleeping areas. middle of its warming restaurant.
SZENTENDRE: Centrum Panzió  BALATONALMÁDI:
Pension Road Map D3 GYŐR: Hotel Fonte  SOPRON: Hotel Lővér  Ramada Resort 
Dunakorzó Historic Road Map B3 Spa Road Map A3 Luxury Road Map B4
Tel (26) 30 25 00 Kisfaludy utca 38 Várisi utca 4 Bajcsy-Zsilinszky utca 14
∑ hotelcentrum.hu Tel (96) 51 38 10 Tel (99) 88 84 00 Tel (88) 62 06 20
One of the few really decent ∑ hotelfonte.hu ∑ hotellover.hu ∑ ramadabalaton.hu
options in town: a welcoming Named after a well discovered Peaceful and secluded, Hotel Impeccably turned-out rooms
place with peach-coloured rooms, during construction, this Baroque Lővér features well-appointed with big windows from which to
some overlooking the Danube. building has comfortable rooms. rooms, a pool and tennis courts. soak up the stunnng lake views. The grand main staircase of the Palatinus Hotel in Pécs
Key to Price Guide see p264 For more information on types of hotels see pp262–3
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WHERE T O ST A Y  267


DK Choice BALATONFÜRED:  rooms with gigantic beds, superb
Blaha Lujza Hotel
swimming pools and an endless
SOPRON: Hotel Wollner  Historic Road Map B4 range of curative treatments.
Luxury Road Map A3 Blaha utca 4
Templom utca 20 Tel (87) 58 12 10 HÉVÍZ: Park Hotel 
Tel (99) 52 44 00 ∑ hotelblaha.hu Spa Road Map B4
∑ wollner.hu Former summer home of the Petőfi utca 26
A superb 18th-century building erstwhile singer, this Neo-Classical Tel (83) 34 11 90
in the heart of the Belvaros, villa offers smart rooms. ∑ parkhotelheviz.hu
this hotel oozes class; rooms This elegant hotel is housed in
have handsome beds, oak BALATONFÜRED: two villas linked by a walkway,
bureaus and splashes of art- Anna Grand Hotel  with comprehensive facilities
work. It also boasts a beautiful Luxury Road Map B4 including sauna and Jacuzzi.
inner garden court yard where Gyógy tér 1
guests can kick back with a Tel (87) 58 12 00 KESZTHELY: Barbara Panzió 
glass of wine. ∑ annagrandhotel.hu Pension Road Map B4
This is the lake’s most opulent Zámor utca 2
hotel, from the cool marble lobby Tel (83) 31 98 65
SZÉKESFEHÉRVÁR: to the immaculate airy rooms. ∑ barbara-pension.hu
Budai Panzió  In an enviable location just a
Pension Road Map C4 BALATONLELLE: Viktoria  stone’s throw from the lake, this
Budai ut 286 Pension Road Map B4 jolly place has an enticing pool
Tel (22) 78 95 69 Szent István út 13 and garden.
∑ budaivendeghaz.eu Tel (85) 55 50 07
Just out of the centre, homely A few paces from the railway halt, KESZTHELY: Tokajer Panzió 
rooms and a welcoming ambience the polished, well-furnished rooms Pension Road Map B4
are the main draws here; the in this tidy pension are top value. Apát utca 21
breakfast is also terrific. Tel (70) 615 32 33
FONYÓD: Boros Castle  ∑ pensiontokajer.hu
SZÉKESFEHÉRVÁR: Historic Road Map B4 Charmingly old-fashioned
Hotel Szárcsa  Csisztai út 10 rooms – each with a terrace
Luxury Road Map C4 Tel (85) 36 04 58 or balcony – are spread across
Szárcsa utca 1 ∑ boroskastely.hu three adjoining buildings.
Tel (22) 32 57 00 Apartments here are surrounded
∑ szarcsa.hu by delightful gardens, plus there’s PÉCS: Palatinus Hotel 
Lovely rooms are decorated with a small pool that’s ideal for families. Historic Road Map C5
wood-carved antiques and period Király utca 5
furnishings at this classy hotel. HÉVÍZ: Astoria Panzió és Tel (72) 88 94 00
Kávéház  ∑ danubiushotels.com
SZOMBATHELY: Pension Road Map B4 A renovated Secession pile,
Hotel Wagner  Rákóczi utca 11 Palatinus Hotel charms with its
Luxury Road Map A3 Tel (30) 217 73 92 magnificent lobby, Art Nouveau
Kossuth Lajos utca 15 ∑ astoriapanzio.hu ballroom, sumptuous rooms and a
Tel (94) 32 22 08 This homely pension near the sparkling basement spa and sauna.
∑ hotelwagner.hu baths has a charming mix of small
This small, compact hotel offers and large air-conditioned rooms. SIÓFOK: Renegade-Rózsa
beautifully styled rooms with Panzió 
lush green carpets and oak desks. HÉVÍZ: Danubius Health Pension Road Map C4
Spa Resort Aqua  Petőfi sétány 4
TATA: Hotel Kiss  Spa Road Map B4 Tel (84) 31 15 06
Luxury Road Map C3 Kossuth Lajos utca 13–15 ∑ renegadehotel.hu
Bacsó Béla utca 54 Tel (83) 88 95 00 Situated midway between
Tel (34) 58 68 88 ∑ danubiushotels.com the station and the beach, this
∑ hotel-kiss.hu A short walk from Lake Hévíz, this large, peaceful pension has basic
Magnificently appointed rooms, spa resort features luxurious rooms and apartments on offer.
as well as a stunning indoor pool
and a host of other amenities
attract guests to this hotel.
Southern
Transdanubia
BALATONALMÁDI:
Ramada Resort 
Luxury Road Map B4
Bajcsy-Zsilinszky utca 14
Tel (88) 62 06 20
∑ ramadabalaton.hu
Impeccably turned-out rooms
with big windows from which to
soak up the stunnng lake views. The grand main staircase of the Palatinus Hotel in Pécs
For more information on types of hotels see pp262–3

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268  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS WHERE T O ST A Y  269

LILLAFÜRED: SÁTORALJAÚJHELY: DEBRECEN: NYÍREGYHÁZA: Hotel Pagony 
Hunguest Palota  Hunor Hotel  Centrum Panzió  Spa Road Map F3
Historic Road Map E2 Luxury Road Map F2 Pension Road Map F3 Újmajori út 14–18
Erzsébet sétány 1 Torzsás út 25 Péterfia utca 37A Tel (42) 50 12 10
Tel (46) 33 14 11 Tel (47) 65 70 30 Tel (52) 41 61 93 ∑ hotelpagony.hu
∑ hunguesthotels.hu ∑ hotelhunor.hu ∑ panziocentrum.hu A top-notch spa hotel north of
This nostalgic, medieval-styled Surrounded by mountains, this Homely and family-run, the town, rooms here are gorgeously
castle – built in the 1920s – plush place features fabulously comfy rooms here have a little furnished and thoughtfully lit.
houses fine, elegant rooms. bright and tidy rooms. sink and microwave as well as
a small terrace. NYÍREGYHÁZA:
MISKOLC: Talizmán Panzió  - DK Choice Svájci Lak Panzió 
Pension Road Map E3 DEBRECEN: Grand Hotel Pension Road Map F3
Vár utca 14 SZILVÁSVÁRAD: La Contessa Aranybika  Sóstógyógyfürdő, Sóstói út 75
Tel (46) 37 86 27 Kastélyhotel  Historic Road Map F3 Tel (42) 41 14 44
∑ talizmanpanzio.hu Luxury Road Map E2 Piac utca 11–15 ∑ svajcilak.com
Impeccably kept en-suite rooms, Park utca 6 Tel (20) 363 61 21 This lovely green and white
and a lovely, verdant little garden Tel (36) 56 40 64 ∑ hotelaranybika.com “Swiss Chalet” is a charismatic
are set in a building dating from ∑ lacontessa.hu Reputedly Hungary’s oldest pension with attractive rooms.
A suite decorated in a romantic theme at the Janus Atrium, Siófok the 18th century. Experience unbridled palatial hotel, the rooms in the older
pomp in this imperious castle wing are a touch classier than SZEGED: Art Hotel 
SIÓFOK: Azúr Hotel  pension comes with a mix of MISKOLC: Bástya Hotel  hotel, from the gleaming marble- those in the newer, modern part. Design Road Map E5
Luxury Road Map C4 rooms, some of which retain Spa Road Map E2 floored lobby to the dazzling Somogyi utca 16
Vitorlás utca 11 their original bare-brick walls. Miskolctapolcai utca 2 white corridors that lead to DEBRECEN: Aquaticum Tel (62) 59 28 88
Tel (84) 50 14 00 Tel (46) 56 15 90 rooms of distinction. These are Thermal Hotel  ∑ arthotelszeged.hu
∑ hotelazur.hu - DK Choice ∑ bastyawellnesshotel.hu spread across the castle and the Spa Road Map F3 Artistically conceived hotel, from
The resort’s premier hotel has This smart hotel comes with manor house, and are elegantly Nagyerdei park 1 the neon-lit lobby to the vividly
faultless rooms and a superbly VESZPRÉM: Oliva Hotel  an array of wellness facilities, decorated with Italian furniture. Tel (52) 51 41 11 coloured rooms. First-rate spa
equipped wellness centre. Design Road Map B4 including indoor and outdoor ∑ aquaticum.hu and restaurant too.
Buhim utca 14–16 pools, Jacuzzi and Finnish sauna. Sparkling, glassy rooms with
SIÓFOK: Janus Atrium  Tel (88) 40 38 75 TOKAJ: Grof Degenfeld sofas and large plasma screen SZEGED: Dóm Hotel 
Design Road Map C4 ∑ oliva.hu PARÁDFÜRDŐ: Castle Hotel  TVs are offered at this plush Luxury Road Map E5
Fő utca 93–95 Located in the old centre, this Erzsébet Park  Historic Road Map F2 four-star hotel. Bajza utca 6
Tel (30) 500 63 15 marvellous, Mediterranean- Historic Road Map E3 Terézia kert 9 Tel (62) 42 37 50
∑ janushotel.hu accented hotel sports 11 Kossuth út 372 Tel (47) 58 04 00 HAJDÚSZOBOSZLÓ: ∑ domhotelszeged.info
Room themes range from Gothic dark-wood-furnished rooms, Tel (36) 54 44 00 ∑ hotelgrofdegenfeld.hu Hotel Silver  A gem of a place on a closed-off
to Gustav Klimt in this super-cool nine deluxe suites, a terrific ∑ erzsebetparkhotel.hu Rooms are every bit as classy as Spa Road Map F3 street, Dóm Hotel has businesslike
boutique hotel. restau rant and all sorts of In a building designed by Miklós the winery for which this family- Mátyás Király utca 25 rooms, sauna and Jacuzzi.
wellness facilities. The historic Ybl, Erzsébet Park offers well- run place is really renowned. Tel (52) 36 38 11
TIHANY: Veszprém castle is within equipped rooms and a full range ∑ hotelsilver.hu DK Choice
Hotel Holiday Tihany  walking distance from the hotel. of wellness amenities. This spa hotel has a wide range
Design Road Map B4 of rooms and apartments, but SZEGED: Hotel Tiszavirág 
Batthyány utca 2–6 PARÁDSASVÁR: The Great Plain the pools are the real draw. Design Road Map E5
Tel (70) 675 00 13 VESZPRÉM: Villa Medici  Hubertus Panzió  Hajnóczy utca 1/b
∑ holidayhoteltihany.hu Luxury Road Map B4 Pension Road Map D3 BAJA: Kaiser Panzió  KECSKEMÉT: Tel (62) 55 48 88
This delightful hotel in tranquil Kittenberger utca 11 Rákóczi út 2 Pension Road Map C5 Aranyhomok Hotel  ∑ tiszaviragszeged.hu
surroundings offers colourful Tel (88) 59 00 70 Tel (36) 54 40 60 Tóth Kálmán utca 12 Spa Road Map D4 There are few places in Hungary
rooms plus a neat terrace garden. ∑ villamedici.hu ∑ hubertuspanzio.hu Tel (79) 52 04 50 Kossuth tér 3 like this romantic, mid-19th-
The attention to detail here is Just opposite the Kastélyhotel ∑ panziokaiser.hu Tel (76) 50 37 30 century house, fronted by a
TIHANY: Tihany Atrium  marvellous; check out the vividly (below), this pension is, obviously, Terrific-value pension whose ∑ hotelaranyhomok.hu wonderful volute balcony;
Luxury Road Map B4 tiled Turkish baths too. much cheaper, but lovely in its largely red-coloured rooms This quite ugly-looking building inside, the all-white rooms mix
Kenderföld utca 19 own right. come with leather sofas. conceals very agreeable rooms, oakwood, glass and marble to
Tel (87) 53 81 00 some of which overlook the wonderful effect. Stunning spa
∑ hoteltihany.com PARÁDSASVÁR: Kastélyhotel attractive park. complex and restaurant.
Elegance and style come very well Northern Highlands Sasvár Resort 
priced at this wonderfully located Luxury Road Map D3 NYÍRBÁTOR: Hotel Hódi 
four-star hotel on the lakeshore. EGER: Kulacs Panzió  Kossuth utca 1 Historic Road Map G3 TISZAFÜRED: Nádas Panzió 
Pension Road Map E3 Tel (36) 44 44 44 Báthory utca 11 Pension Road Map E3
VESZPRÉM: Gizella Hotel  Szépasszonyvölgy ∑ khs.hu Tel (42) 28 10 12 Kismuhi utca 2
Historic Road Map B4 Tel (36) 31 13 75 An opulent Neo-Classical pile ∑ hotelhodi.com Tel (59) 51 14 01
Jókai Mór utca 48 ∑ kulacscsarda.hu in its own parkland with a range This beautiful Baroque old town ∑ nadaspanzio.hu
Tel (88) 57 94 90 Accommodation at this cheerful of elegantly decorated rooms house, now converted into a This delightful thatched-roof
∑ hotelgizella.hu pension comprises a handful of and suites. charming hotel, was the home pension also boasts a kidney-
Request an attic room – white pine-furnished, cosy rooms with of the renowned Báthory family. shaped pool and a fine wine cellar.
walls, sloping roofs and beams – dinky balconies. SÁROSPATAK:
in this 18th-century building. Vár Vendéglő Panzió  NYÍREGYHÁZA: TISZAFÜRED:
EGER: Senator-ház  Pension Road Map F2 Fürdőház Panzió  Tisza Balneum 
VESZPRÉM: Péter Pál Panzió  Historic Road Map E3 Arpád út 35 Spa Road Map F3 Spa Road Map E3
Pension Road Map B4 Dobó tér 11 Tel (47) 31 13 70 Sóstógyógyfürdő, Szódaház utca 18 Húszöles út 27
Dózsa György út 3 Tel (36) 411 711 ∑ varvendeglo.hu Tel (42) 41 11 91 Tel (59) 88 62 00
Tel (88) 32 80 91 ∑ senatorhaz.hu Six serene and immaculately The “Bath House” has warm, ∑ balneum.hu
∑ peterpal.hu From the happily cluttered lobby turned-out rooms are offered at comfortable and reasonably Outstanding rooms furnished
Decorated in the style of the to the character-laden rooms, this pension, some with superb Modern designer decor and a first-rate spa priced modern rooms, plus free with local craftsmanship; the
early 1900s, this engaging little this 18th-century inn is delightful. views across to the castle. at the Art Hotel, Szeged use of the thermal baths. hotel’s pools are unrivalled.
Key to Price Guide see p264 For more information on types of hotels see pp262–3
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WHERE T O ST A Y  269

SÁTORALJAÚJHELY: DEBRECEN: NYÍREGYHÁZA: Hotel Pagony 
Hunor Hotel  Centrum Panzió  Spa Road Map F3
Luxury Road Map F2 Pension Road Map F3 Újmajori út 14–18
Torzsás út 25 Péterfia utca 37A Tel (42) 50 12 10
Tel (47) 65 70 30 Tel (52) 41 61 93 ∑ hotelpagony.hu
∑ hotelhunor.hu ∑ panziocentrum.hu A top-notch spa hotel north of
Surrounded by mountains, this Homely and family-run, the town, rooms here are gorgeously
plush place features fabulously comfy rooms here have a little furnished and thoughtfully lit.
bright and tidy rooms. sink and microwave as well as
a small terrace. NYÍREGYHÁZA:
- DK Choice DEBRECEN: Grand Hotel Svájci Lak Panzió Road Map F3

Pension
SZILVÁSVÁRAD: La Contessa Aranybika  Sóstógyógyfürdő, Sóstói út 75
Kastélyhotel  Historic Road Map F3 Tel (42) 41 14 44
Luxury Road Map E2 Piac utca 11–15 ∑ svajcilak.com
Park utca 6 Tel (20) 363 61 21 This lovely green and white
Tel (36) 56 40 64 ∑ hotelaranybika.com “Swiss Chalet” is a charismatic
∑ lacontessa.hu Reputedly Hungary’s oldest pension with attractive rooms.
Experience unbridled palatial hotel, the rooms in the older
pomp in this imperious castle wing are a touch classier than SZEGED: Art Hotel 
hotel, from the gleaming marble- those in the newer, modern part. Design Road Map E5
floored lobby to the dazzling Somogyi utca 16
white corridors that lead to DEBRECEN: Aquaticum Tel (62) 59 28 88
rooms of distinction. These are Thermal Hotel  ∑ arthotelszeged.hu
spread across the castle and the Spa Road Map F3 Artistically conceived hotel, from
manor house, and are elegantly Nagyerdei park 1 the neon-lit lobby to the vividly
decorated with Italian furniture. Tel (52) 51 41 11 coloured rooms. First-rate spa
∑ aquaticum.hu and restaurant too.
Sparkling, glassy rooms with
TOKAJ: Grof Degenfeld sofas and large plasma screen SZEGED: Dóm Hotel 
Castle Hotel  TVs are offered at this plush Luxury Road Map E5
Historic Road Map F2 four-star hotel. Bajza utca 6
Terézia kert 9 Tel (62) 42 37 50
Tel (47) 58 04 00 HAJDÚSZOBOSZLÓ: ∑ domhotelszeged.info
∑ hotelgrofdegenfeld.hu Hotel Silver  A gem of a place on a closed-off
Rooms are every bit as classy as Spa Road Map F3 street, Dóm Hotel has businesslike
the winery for which this family- Mátyás Király utca 25 rooms, sauna and Jacuzzi.
run place is really renowned. Tel (52) 36 38 11
∑ hotelsilver.hu DK Choice
This spa hotel has a wide range
of rooms and apartments, but SZEGED: Hotel Tiszavirág 
The Great Plain the pools are the real draw. Design Road Map E5
Hajnóczy utca 1/b
BAJA: Kaiser Panzió  KECSKEMÉT: Tel (62) 55 48 88
Pension Road Map C5 Aranyhomok Hotel  ∑ tiszaviragszeged.hu
Tóth Kálmán utca 12 Spa Road Map D4 There are few places in Hungary
Tel (79) 52 04 50 Kossuth tér 3 like this romantic, mid-19th-
∑ panziokaiser.hu Tel (76) 50 37 30 century house, fronted by a
Terrific-value pension whose ∑ hotelaranyhomok.hu wonderful volute balcony;
largely red-coloured rooms This quite ugly-looking building inside, the all-white rooms mix
come with leather sofas. conceals very agreeable rooms, oakwood, glass and marble to
some of which overlook the wonderful effect. Stunning spa
attractive park. complex and restaurant.
NYÍRBÁTOR: Hotel Hódi 
Historic Road Map G3 TISZAFÜRED: Nádas Panzió 
Báthory utca 11 Pension Road Map E3
Tel (42) 28 10 12 Kismuhi utca 2
∑ hotelhodi.com Tel (59) 51 14 01
This beautiful Baroque old town ∑ nadaspanzio.hu
house, now converted into a This delightful thatched-roof
charming hotel, was the home pension also boasts a kidney-
of the renowned Báthory family. shaped pool and a fine wine cellar.
NYÍREGYHÁZA: TISZAFÜRED:
Fürdőház Panzió  Tisza Balneum 
Spa Road Map F3 Spa Road Map E3
Sóstógyógyfürdő, Szódaház utca 18 Húszöles út 27
Tel (42) 41 11 91 Tel (59) 88 62 00
The “Bath House” has warm, ∑ balneum.hu
comfortable and reasonably Outstanding rooms furnished
Modern designer decor and a first-rate spa priced modern rooms, plus free with local craftsmanship; the
at the Art Hotel, Szeged use of the thermal baths. hotel’s pools are unrivalled.
For more information on types of hotels see pp262–3
264-269_EW_Hungary.indd 269 19/09/17 10:40 am

270  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK  271

WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK loose change is perfectly
acceptable in cafés. Credit cards
Hungary has a long tradition of hospitality remains a relatively low-cost experience are accepted in the majority
and culinary excellence. Budapest especially because an ever-increasing number of of restaurants, though you’d
is full of exquisite, luxurious restaurants fit restaurants make a special effort to ensure do well to check in more rural
for the emperors of old – the city is, in fact, that visitors to any Hungarian city will be establishments before ordering
your meal.
home to some of central Europe’s most able to enjoy local delicacies. These are usually
historic restaurants. These, though, are slowly served in enormous portions at low prices,
being usurped by a new wave of smart, offering excellent value for money. Hungary’s Recommended
Restaurants
contem porary establishments with younger, coffeehouses, meanwhile, are legendary,
more dynamic chefs committed to creating and there’s no greater pleasure than sitting The restaurants listed here cover
a range of cuisine styles and are
dazzling, modern interpretations of classic and chatting over coffee and cake in one of Centrál Kávéház café (see p277), one of Budapest’s historic coffeehouses the best of their kind in Hungary.
Magyar cooking. Eating out, however, Budapest’s great kávéház. Traditional Hungarian cooking
Reservations
opportunity to sample local remains the dominant theme
A prior reservation is really food and mingle with locals. throughout the country, parti-
paprika). Beer houses, called around 6pm, though those only necessary in the best cularly in the country side, where
söröző, serve an even wider that serve alcohol generally restaurants, especially in the archetypal goulash and
range of moderately priced close much later. Budapest. In Hungary, it is Prices, Tipping paprika-based dishes still form
and Payment
snacks and hot dishes. customary to join other guests the mainstay of most restaurant
Hungary has one of the Vegetarian Food at a table, especially during Like most countries, the cost menus. That said, many newer
oldest coffee-drinking traditions the busy lunchtime. To secure of a meal in Hungary varies establishments are now offering
in Europe. Introduced to Although vegetarian cuisine a private table in advance, it is according to the location a fresh, modern take on age-old
Hungary by the Turks during is hardly found in abundance advisable to reserve it. and type of establishment. recipes, and we’ve listed a
their occupation, the coffee in Hungary, there are a growing Notwithstanding the fact number of restaurants that
culture blossomed, and towards number of places – particularly that Budapest now has some reflect the changing, and more
the end of the Habsburg era, high-end restaurants – that Children incredibly upmarket restaurants, innovative, trends in Magyar
there were almost 600 kávéház offer more adventurous dishes. Children are welcomed in the cost of eating out here is, cooking. Although a fairly loose
in Budapest alone; aside Meat-free dishes can be found all restaurants almost without anyway, higher than elsewhere term, international cuisine is
from coffee, these institutions on most menus: főzelék, a exception. Most places in the country, while you may increasingly popular in many
invariably serve pastries, vegetable dish that normally can provide a highchair for also find prices slightly higher restaurants – especially in
The outdoor terrace of the Pest-Buda cream cakes and ice cream. accompanies steak, sausage or toddlers, while there will around Lake Balaton. Budapest – and here you’ll find
Vendéglő (see p276) a hamburger, can be ordered often be a children’s (or a The prices should also be a number of outstanding places
on its own or with egg, while light) portion on the menu; displayed, but if they are not, each offering a menu of diverse
Types of Restaurants Opening Hours lecsó is a tomato and pepper if not, then the chef will go elsewhere. The introduction dishes inspired by national
and Cafés Most restaurants open around casserole that makes a prepare a suitable dish usually of printed and itemized bills has cuisines from across the globe.
As a general rule, Hungarian 11am and close around 10 or substantial meal by itself. Other at a slightly cheaper price. made it increasingly difficult Ethnic eateries are almost
restaurants carry a name tag 11pm. It is unusual for them meat-free specialities include The only exception might be for hidden extras to be added exclusively confined to the
that indicates what kind of to close during the afternoon, túrós csusza, a pasta dish with dessert, but the desserts in to the final bill, as in days of capital, where there are some
eatery it will be. Étterem simply though many, especially outside cottage cheese and sour cream. Hungarian restaurants are yore, but remain wary and first-class Italian, French and
means restaurant, and any type Budapest, close on Sundays There are also many sweet and so delicious (and sweet) that always check the bill assiduously. Asian restaurants, in particular.
of cuisine may be served. A and/or Mondays. Some savoury palacsinta (pancakes). most children will happily eat In some restaurants, a service The specially recommended
csárda comes in various forms: restaurants in the Balaton area A list of restaurants and shops a whole portion. charge is included in the final restaurants, marked as DK
most are folksy restaurants are open only during the season can be found on the website bill, but this is not common choice, have been chosen
offering interesting variations from May to September. Cafés of the Hungarian branch of Menus practice; if such a charge has because they offer a unique
on local dishes, while a fisher- and patisseries generally open the International Vegetarian not been levied, it is customary experience – typically a com-
man’s csárda, known as a at 8am, running through to Union, www.vegetarian.hu. By law, all Hungarian restaurants to leave your waiter a tip of bination of superb cuisine and
halászcsárda, will offer mainly must display a menu with around 10 per cent, while a truly special atmosphere.
fish dishes and soups. There prices, and while many will have
are two types of inn: a vendéglő, English translation, this is less
which has an informal common outside the capital:
ambience, and a kis vendéglő a staff member or fellow diner
(literally “small inn”), which is may be able to help out. The
similar to a bistro. name of the dish is usually
Besides restaurants, a great followed by a brief description.
place to eat a light snack in Remember that for many
Hungary is in a wine bar Hungarians lunch is the
(borozó). Typically, such snacks main meal of the day. Many
consist of a slice of bread restaurants and cafés therefore
and dripping with raw onion, offer a two- or three- course
sprinkled with paprika, or set menu, consisting of a soup,
pogácsa (a scone with crackling, a main course and often a
cheese, caraway seeds or Peaceful courtyard for al fresco dinning at Kéhli Vendéglő (see p279), in Budapest dessert. This can be a good The refined dinning room at Tigris (see p283), Budapest




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WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK  271


loose change is perfectly
acceptable in cafés. Credit cards
are accepted in the majority
of restaurants, though you’d
do well to check in more rural
establishments before ordering
your meal.

Recommended
Restaurants
The restaurants listed here cover
a range of cuisine styles and are
Centrál Kávéház café (see p277), one of Budapest’s historic coffeehouses the best of their kind in Hungary.
Traditional Hungarian cooking
Reservations
opportunity to sample local remains the dominant theme
A prior reservation is really food and mingle with locals. throughout the country, parti-
only necessary in the best cularly in the country side, where
restaurants, especially in the archetypal goulash and
Budapest. In Hungary, it is Prices, Tipping paprika-based dishes still form
and Payment
customary to join other guests the mainstay of most restaurant
at a table, especially during Like most countries, the cost menus. That said, many newer
the busy lunchtime. To secure of a meal in Hungary varies establishments are now offering
a private table in advance, it is according to the location a fresh, modern take on age-old
advisable to reserve it. and type of establishment. recipes, and we’ve listed a
Notwithstanding the fact number of restaurants that
that Budapest now has some reflect the changing, and more
Children
incredibly upmarket restaurants, innovative, trends in Magyar
Children are welcomed in the cost of eating out here is, cooking. Although a fairly loose
all restaurants almost without anyway, higher than elsewhere term, international cuisine is
exception. Most places in the country, while you may increasingly popular in many
can provide a highchair for also find prices slightly higher restaurants – especially in
toddlers, while there will around Lake Balaton. Budapest – and here you’ll find
often be a children’s (or a The prices should also be a number of outstanding places
light) portion on the menu; displayed, but if they are not, each offering a menu of diverse
if not, then the chef will go elsewhere. The introduction dishes inspired by national
prepare a suitable dish usually of printed and itemized bills has cuisines from across the globe.
at a slightly cheaper price. made it increasingly difficult Ethnic eateries are almost
The only exception might be for hidden extras to be added exclusively confined to the
dessert, but the desserts in to the final bill, as in days of capital, where there are some
Hungarian restaurants are yore, but remain wary and first-class Italian, French and
so delicious (and sweet) that always check the bill assiduously. Asian restaurants, in particular.
most children will happily eat In some restaurants, a service The specially recommended
a whole portion. charge is included in the final restaurants, marked as DK
bill, but this is not common choice, have been chosen
practice; if such a charge has because they offer a unique
Menus not been levied, it is customary experience – typically a com-
By law, all Hungarian restaurants to leave your waiter a tip of bination of superb cuisine and
must display a menu with around 10 per cent, while a truly special atmosphere.
prices, and while many will have
English translation, this is less
common outside the capital:
a staff member or fellow diner
may be able to help out. The
name of the dish is usually
followed by a brief description.
Remember that for many
Hungarians lunch is the
main meal of the day. Many
restaurants and cafés therefore
offer a two- or three- course
set menu, consisting of a soup,
a main course and often a
dessert. This can be a good The refined dinning room at Tigris (see p283), Budapest




270-271_EW_Hungary.indd 271 18/09/17 3:41 pm

272  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS THE FLA VOURS OF HUNGAR Y  273


The Flavours of Hungary Paprika peppers are a culinary
staple and many types are
The fusion of Magyar, Turkish, Balkan and even French grown. They are either cooked
influences has made Hungarian cuisine one of the most as part of a dish – töltött paprika
interesting and flavourful in central Europe. Hungary is (peppers stuffed with meat and
rice) are served up everywhere
a country where cooking know-how has always been a key – or dried and ground up to
aspect of the national culture. The improvised stews of be used as a spice. There are
nomadic Asiatic settlers survive as a delicacy to this day. hundreds of different types of
Although noted for its game, foie gras and rich meaty ground paprika, which vary in
preparations, such as goulash and the legendary Debreceni flavour and strength. Although
sausages, it is also a good place to enjoy freshwater fish and paprika is the emblematic spice
of Hungary, it was not always
an array of delicious cakes and pastries. Hungarian peppers so. During the 19th century
Poultry and Game Market stall laden with root vegetables and strings of dried peppers national resistance movements,
veal is also becoming Hungarian cooks started the
increasingly popular. Steak Geese play a large part in the served with purple onion or Vegetables excessive use of paprika powder
is widely dished up with a culinary tradition of Hungary, pickles. Duck is another regular Potatoes, tomatoes and to differentiate Hungarian and
rich sauce, as in Belszín which is the world’s second on Hungarian menus, frequently cabbage are usually the main Austrian gastronomy.
Budapest módra (Budapest biggest producer of foie gras roasted with chestnuts or berries vegetables. But from May
tenderloin medallions). Beef (after France). Foie gras is almost and served with red cabbage. to July, fine white asparagus BEST LOCAL SNACKS
is also used to make the many the national dish, usually cooked Pheasant may also be on offer, appears on market stalls, with
types of goulash, although in its own fat and served cold. It normally in a rich soup. Venison many restaurants serving Sausages Most buffets and
this dish, as well as gulyásleves is also found in pâtés and confits. is common, and usually served spárgaleves, a rich creamy butcher’s shops offer the lightly
(goulash soup) can also be Goose skin is widely enjoyed as a spicy pörkölt (goulash) or in soup made from asparagus smoked Debreceni sausage,
made from pork or venison. too, fried in its own fat and a vegetable sauce with bread. and veal stock. made from beef, pork, paprika
and garlic. It is generally eaten
with bread and mustard.
Puncs Krémes Túrós- Fish Chestnuts In winter, Budapest
Rigó Eszterházy torta barackos pite
Sausages and meats on sale at the Central torta Traditional Hungarian dishes is crammed with stalls selling
Market Hall, Budapest Jancsi are made from freshwater freshly roasted chestnuts.
fish, with carp the most widely Pancakes, fritters and
Meat
eaten, although catfish, zander doughnuts Snack bars all
Pork is a popular meat in bream and trout can also be over the country serve tasty
Hungary, while financial found on most menus. A fried doughy snacks all day
constraints mean that beef popular soup is halászlé, made long. Try alma pongyolában
is more of an expensive with carp or catfish and (apple fritters).
delicacy. Pork is found in a seasoned with a generous Gingerbread Shops devoted
wide range of stews and dash of paprika. Another to selling gingerbread are
sausages, and is eaten as favourite is harcsapaprikás, a everywhere. At Christmas it is
bacon. Cuts of beef do goulash-style fish stew with often highly decorated and
feature on tables and menus, sour cream and served with Roasting chestnuts, a common sight on given as a present.
especially in Budapest, and Selection of typical Hungarian cakes and pastries galuska, a type of noodle. Budapest’s winter streets
Local Dishes and Specialities

Despite strong foreign influences, the classic
dishes of Hungary dominate menus in the
restaurants and cafés. Many show their roots in
one of Hungary’s three historical regions. Goulash
and its many variants, for exam ple, is a dish of the
Great Plain, the traditional method of cooking it in
a kettle reflecting the nomadic past of the Plain’s
inhabitants. Foie gras may have been introduced
into the country by the Austrian Habsburgs, but
has become so popu lar that it is key to the cuisine
of eastern Hungary, where most geese are now bred. Lángos Crisp and golden, these Csirkepaprikás Chicken ragout Gulyásleves A type of goulash, Dobos Torta Fine slices of
White asparagus The centre of the country, the area around Budapest, deep- fried potato cakes make a in a creamy sauce made from this soup made of pork or beef sponge cake are layered with
has always had the sweet est tooth and nearly all popular, filling snack, served with paprika and sour cream. Usually with vegetables is flavoured with chocolate cream and topped
the nation’s favourite cakes and desserts originate from here. soured cream, cheese or garlic oil. served with Hungarian noodles. onion, caraway and paprika. with glossy caramel.






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THE FLA VOURS OF HUNGAR Y  273



Paprika peppers are a culinary
staple and many types are
grown. They are either cooked
as part of a dish – töltött paprika
(peppers stuffed with meat and
rice) are served up everywhere
– or dried and ground up to
be used as a spice. There are
hundreds of different types of
ground paprika, which vary in
flavour and strength. Although
paprika is the emblematic spice
of Hungary, it was not always
so. During the 19th century
Market stall laden with root vegetables and strings of dried peppers national resistance movements,
Hungarian cooks started the
Vegetables
served with purple onion or excessive use of paprika powder
pickles. Duck is another regular Potatoes, tomatoes and to differentiate Hungarian and
on Hungarian menus, frequently cabbage are usually the main Austrian gastronomy.
roasted with chestnuts or berries vegetables. But from May
and served with red cabbage. to July, fine white asparagus BEST LOCAL SNACKS
Pheasant may also be on offer, appears on market stalls, with
normally in a rich soup. Venison many restaurants serving Sausages Most buffets and
is common, and usually served spárgaleves, a rich creamy butcher’s shops offer the lightly
as a spicy pörkölt (goulash) or in soup made from asparagus smoked Debreceni sausage,
a vegetable sauce with bread. and veal stock. made from beef, pork, paprika
and garlic. It is generally eaten
with bread and mustard.
Fish Chestnuts In winter, Budapest
Traditional Hungarian dishes is crammed with stalls selling
are made from freshwater freshly roasted chestnuts.
fish, with carp the most widely Pancakes, fritters and
eaten, although catfish, zander doughnuts Snack bars all
bream and trout can also be over the country serve tasty
found on most menus. A fried doughy snacks all day
popular soup is halászlé, made long. Try alma pongyolában
with carp or catfish and (apple fritters).
seasoned with a generous Gingerbread Shops devoted
dash of paprika. Another to selling gingerbread are
favourite is harcsapaprikás, a everywhere. At Christmas it is
goulash-style fish stew with often highly decorated and
sour cream and served with Roasting chestnuts, a common sight on given as a present.
galuska, a type of noodle. Budapest’s winter streets














Csirkepaprikás Chicken ragout Gulyásleves A type of goulash, Dobos Torta Fine slices of
in a creamy sauce made from this soup made of pork or beef sponge cake are layered with
paprika and sour cream. Usually with vegetables is flavoured with chocolate cream and topped
served with Hungarian noodles. onion, caraway and paprika. with glossy caramel.






272-273_EW_Hungary.indd 273 18/09/17 3:38 pm

274  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS WHA T T O DRINK  275

What to Drink in Hungary A dry white wine Spritzers
Egri Bikavér, “Bull’s Blood”, from the Badacsony
Hungary is famous for its excellent wines and, although it is a full-bodied red wine vineyards On hot days, Hungarians
not a big country, it has over 20 wine regions (see pp32–3). enjoy drinking refreshing
These regions produce all the characteristic wine styles, spritzers. The various types are
differentiated by the proportion
from pezsgő (sparkling wine) and light whites that come of white wine to soda water:
from Mátra, near Lake Balaton, to dry reds from Villány or
Eger, as well as Tokaji, a distinctive sweet dessert wine from Quantity of Quantity of
wine
water
Tokaj. Many wines from different vine yards are matured in
the maze of under ground cellars in Budafok. They are all Small spritzer (Kisfröccs)
10 cl
10 cl
widely available in Budapest’s restaurants, wine bars and Large spritzer(Nagyfröccs)
wine shops. As well as being a prominent wine producer, 20 cl 10 cl
Hungary also makes beer, pálinka (a drink distilled from Light Hungarian beers Long step (Hosszúlépés)
different orchard fruits), several types of brandy and a chosen drink, as it goes 10 cl 20 cl
bitter herb liqueur called Unicum. exceptionally well with many Janitor (Házmester) 20 cl
30 cl
traditional, paprika-flavoured
Hungarian dishes, goulash
Pálinka Tokaji
among them. The most widely Ződszilváni, Hárslevelű and
Kecskemét is the largest region available Hungarian beer brands Szürkebarát, medium-sweet The dessert wine Tokaji has a Unicum
that produces the alco holic are Dreher (established in Tramini and the aromatic very different style. Its bouquet Invented in 1790 to subdue
drink pálinka, which is distilled 1854 in the Kőbánya District Muskotály, which is produced and flavour come from a mould indigestion, Unicum is made
from fruit grown in the orchards of Budapest), Arany Ászok, in Badacsony, Balatonboglár, that grows only in the fork of from a blend of 40 Hungarian
situated on the Great Hungarian Kőbányai, Soproni and Borsodi, Csopak and Somló. the Bodrog and Tisza rivers and herbs. The herbs, which are
Plain, some 100 km (60 miles) which are mass-produced Among red wines, the dry the vol canic soil in which the gathered in three separate
southeast of Budapest. Pálinka by local breweries. Popular Kékfrankos, Burgundi, Oportó, vines grow (see p232). Tokaji areas, are combined to
is a spirit native to Hungary and international brands of beer Cabernet and Pinot Noir are ranges from sweet to dry and produce this bitter liqueur.
comes in a variety of flavours are also found in stores and popular, as is the medium-dry is full-bodied and rich. Worth Unicum can be drunk
including barack pubs, while some premium Merlot, which is produced in sampling is Aszú, which is either as an apéritif before
(apri cot) and cseresznye restaurants and pubs also Siklós, Sopron, Szekszárd, Tihany made with the addition of a meal or afterwards as
(cherry). The best of serve beer from small, artisan and Villány. overripe grapes harvested a digestif with coffee.
them, however, is szilva Pezsgő and Hungaria by Törley breweries in Hungary and the Another vine-growing after the first frost. The The recipe has been
(plum), which comes surrounding countries. dis trict is Eger, which is famous proportion of these held by the Zwack
from the Szatmár Today, Hungary has several for its aromatic, robust red Egri grapes added to the family, and remained
district and is much other vineyards producing Hungarian Wines Leányka and the dry red must (grape juice) a secret, since the
favoured by the pezsgő, mainly concentrated Egri Bikavér, or “Bull’s Blood”, determines the body reign of Austrian
Hungarians. around Budapest, in the The choice of good wine which is produced from a and sweetness. The Emperor Joseph II.
Pálinka is not the Pannónia and Balatonboglár available in Hungary has combination of three grape more grapes used, Originally, Unicum
only spirit indige- regions. As well as Törley, increased dramatically over varieties. Other Hungarian the richer and sweeter Unicum herb liqueur was prescribed as a
nous to Hungary. Hungaria is another good the past few years. This is wines take their names from the Aszú. remedy for the king
Other examples label to look out for. thanks to the ever-improving their place of origin or the Although cheap varieties by the court phys ician, who
include Törköly, wines being matured in private variety of grape from which of Tokaji do exist, they lack the was himself a mem ber of the
a spirit distilled Hungarian Beers cellars. The styles currently they are produced. quality of the genuine article. Zwack family.
from grape, which favoured by the producers
posses ses a very Hungarians have been turning include dry white Chardonnay
deli cate flavour, and increas ingly to beer as their and Riesling, medium-dry
Barack Vilmos, a brandy made
pálinka from Williams pears.
Sparkling Wines
Sparkling wine, called pezsgő
(the Hungarian word for
“sparkling”), enjoys a good
reputation in Hungary. The
classic method of producing
these wines was introduced
to Hungary from France by
József Törley, in 1881. It was
Törley who built the first
production plant in Budafok,
which continues to produce Sweet Tokaji Dry Tokaji Tokaji Aszú, a renowned golden Pear-flavoured Sisi, an apricot
excellent sparkling wines. One of Budafok’s cellars, where wines are aged in barrels Szamorodni Szamorodni dessert wine Vilmos liqueur liqueur




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WHA T T O DRINK  275


A dry white wine Spritzers
Egri Bikavér, “Bull’s Blood”, from the Badacsony
a full-bodied red wine vineyards On hot days, Hungarians
enjoy drinking refreshing
spritzers. The various types are
differentiated by the proportion
of white wine to soda water:
Quantity of Quantity of
wine water
Small spritzer (Kisfröccs)
10 cl 10 cl
Large spritzer(Nagyfröccs)
20 cl 10 cl
Long step (Hosszúlépés)
10 cl 20 cl
Janitor (Házmester)
30 cl 20 cl

Tokaji
Ződszilváni, Hárslevelű and Unicum
Szürkebarát, medium-sweet The dessert wine Tokaji has a
Tramini and the aromatic very different style. Its bouquet Invented in 1790 to subdue
Muskotály, which is produced and flavour come from a mould indigestion, Unicum is made
in Badacsony, Balatonboglár, that grows only in the fork of from a blend of 40 Hungarian
Csopak and Somló. the Bodrog and Tisza rivers and herbs. The herbs, which are
Among red wines, the dry the vol canic soil in which the gathered in three separate
Kékfrankos, Burgundi, Oportó, vines grow (see p232). Tokaji areas, are combined to
Cabernet and Pinot Noir are ranges from sweet to dry and produce this bitter liqueur.
popular, as is the medium-dry is full-bodied and rich. Worth Unicum can be drunk
Merlot, which is produced in sampling is Aszú, which is either as an apéritif before
Siklós, Sopron, Szekszárd, Tihany made with the addition of a meal or afterwards as
and Villány. overripe grapes harvested a digestif with coffee.
Another vine-growing after the first frost. The The recipe has been
dis trict is Eger, which is famous proportion of these held by the Zwack
for its aromatic, robust red Egri grapes added to the family, and remained
Leányka and the dry red must (grape juice) a secret, since the
Egri Bikavér, or “Bull’s Blood”, determines the body reign of Austrian
which is produced from a and sweetness. The Emperor Joseph II.
combination of three grape more grapes used, Originally, Unicum
varieties. Other Hungarian the richer and sweeter Unicum herb liqueur was prescribed as a
wines take their names from the Aszú. remedy for the king
their place of origin or the Although cheap varieties by the court phys ician, who
variety of grape from which of Tokaji do exist, they lack the was himself a mem ber of the
they are produced. quality of the genuine article. Zwack family.


















Sweet Tokaji Dry Tokaji Tokaji Aszú, a renowned golden Pear-flavoured Sisi, an apricot
Szamorodni Szamorodni dessert wine Vilmos liqueur liqueur




274-275_EW_Hungary.indd 275 18/09/17 3:41 pm

276  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK  277

Where to Eat and Drink Gresham Kávéház Map 2 D5

Café
Széchenyi István tér 5–6
little to detract from the excellent Price Guide Tel (1) 268 60 00
Budapest food, though it’s perhaps a bit too Prices are based on a three-course meal This is a perfect place for
for one with half a bottle of wine and
Castle District touristy for some. Good Hungarian including service: enjoying a light lunch or early
evening meal. Alternatively, opt
wine list.
Ruszwurm Cukrászda   up to 5,500 HUF for one of the wickedly enticing
Café Map 1 B5 Pest-Buda Bistro   5,500 to 8,500 HUF cakes any time.
Szentháromság utca 7 Hungarian Map 1 B4  over 8,500 HUF
Tel (1) 375 52 84 Fortuna utca 3 DK Choice
Budapest’s oldest patisserie is Tel (1) 225 03 77 Gellert Hill & Taban
perhaps its finest too, with plenty An elegant restaurant with Café Déryné  Café Bouchon 
of calorific strudel and rétes (filo arched walls and ceiling that Hungarian and French Map 1 B5 Hungarian and French Map 2 E4
pastries filled with curd cheese), form part of an underground Krisztina tér 3 Zichy Jenő utca 33
and some delicious coffees. cave system. The food, mean- Tel (1) 225 14 07 Tel (1) 353 40 94 Closed Sun
while, is interesting and Evoking the atmosphere of a Outstanding combinations of
excellently prepared. grand-scale dining room, the French and Hungarian flavours
DK Choice classic brasserie menu here mark out this welcoming little
21 – Magyar Vendéglő  Rivalda Café & features simple local and neighbourhood restaurant that
Modern Hungarian Map 1 B4 Restaurant  French favourites. is popular with theatre-goers.
Fortuna utca 21 International Map 1 B5 It is also well stocked with some Folk-inspired decor at the Italian-style Pomo D’Oro
Tel (1) 202 21 13 Színház utca 5–9 Búsuló Juhász of the country’s finest wines.
This super-stylish restaurant Tel (1) 489 02 36 Étterem  The nicely spaced out tables, Krízia  Tigris 
strives to create traditional Contemporary international Hungarian Map 3 C3 lovely Art Deco furnishings and Italian Map 2 E4 Modern Hungarian Map 2 D5
Magyar cuisine in a contempo- cuisine with a changing menu that Kelenhegyi út 58 impeccable service round Mozsár utca 12 Mérleg utca 10
rary setting. Brick walls, wooden reflects the seasons, using mostly Tel (1) 209 16 49 things off beautifully. Tel (1) 331 87 11 Closed Sun Tel (1) 317 37 15 Closed Sun
floors and subdued lighting locally produced ingredients. Sited on the slopes of Gellert This pretty restaurant showcases Hungarian cuisine is rendered
create the perfect atmosphere Great evenings of jazz too. Hill, Búsuló is worth visiting as some fabulous Italian cuisine; the with flair and ingenuity here,
in which to enjoy first rate foie much for the views as the food, Café Kör  home-made pastas and noodles from the smoked meats
gras and other classic dishes, Vár a Speiz Étterem  which is beautifully prepared Modern Hungarian Map 2 D5 are quite something, and there’s prepared in-house to a special
such as chicken paprika with International Map 1 B4 but expensive. Sas utca 17 a truffle menu too. It closes for the foie gras menu.
buttered dumplings. The wine Hess András tér 6 Tel (1) 311 00 53 afternoon from 3pm to 6:30pm.
list is particularly inspired. Tel (1) 488 74 16 Manna Étterem  Enticing bowls of salad and Central Pest
This sophisticated restaurant International Map 1 B5 grilled meat dishes fill the Marquis de Salade 
offers the likes of foie gras with Palota út 17 menu at this popular, modestly International Map 2 E4 Centrál Kávéház 
Café Pierrot  Tokaj wines. In the adjoining Tel (20) 999 91 88 sized bistro-style place. Fine Hajós utca 43 Café Map 4 E1
International Map 1 B4 Ham and Wine Bar, you can This stylish restaurant is most wines too. Tel (30) 223 35 20 Károlyi Mihály utca 9
Fortuna utca 14 sample a superb range of cured notable for its uinque location Dishes from Azerbaijan and Tel (1) 266 21 10
Tel (1) 375 69 71 meats from all over Europe. on the top of the tunnel under Kispiac Bisztró  Georgia feature strongly in this This was one of Budapest’s
The original, elegant Socialist-era Castle Hill, with a terrace offering Modern Hungarian Map 2 D4 wittily titled and beautifully foremost literary cafés in the
interior contributes to the 1980s Alabárdos  a panorama of Kristinaváros Hold utca 13 decorated establishment – check early 20th century. It remains a
retro feel; the food is a classy Modern Hungarian Map 1 A4 on the Buda side. Tel (1) 269 42 31 Closed Sun out the Persian rugs downstairs. grand affair, and the pastries are
international take on quality Országház utca 2 A sweet little local with barely a truly spectacular.
Hungarian produce. Tel (1) 356 08 51 Closed Sun, lunch handful of tables, it offers some Pomo D’Oro 
Mon–Fri Around Parliament sumptuous dishes, but the Italian Map 2 D4 Gerbeaud 
Fekete Holló Vendéglő  Alabárdos is a truly exclusive Buja Disznók Étterem  roasted duck beats the lot. Arany János utca 9 Café Map 2 D5
Hungarian Map 1 A4 place in an outstanding Gothic Austrian Map 2 D4 Tel (1) 302 64 73 Vörösmarty tér 7
Országház utca 10 building. The menu features Hold utca 13 A labyrinthine trattoria with large Tel (1) 429 90 00
Tel (1) 356 23 67 Hungarian specialities from pre- Tel (70) 377 33 22 wood-burning ovens firing up A period gem, exquisitely
At this little gem in Buda Castle, paprika times made to please Located in the Hold utca market thin-crust pizzas; the charcoal- furnished and decorated (see
the kitsch medieval decor does today’s taste buds. hall, this charming eatery grilled meats are worth trying too. p98), Gerbeaud has been serving
specialises in schnitzel, the pork some of the best, and most
delicacy that’s a firm favourite Sir Lancelot Lovagi Étterem  expensive, coffees and cakes in
among diners here. International Map 2 E3 the country for over 100 years.
Podmaniczky utca 14
Európa Kávéház  Tel (1) 302 44 56 Művész Kávéház 
Café Map 2 D3 For those who relish a themed Café Map 2 E4
Szent István Korüt 7–9 eating experience, this is ideal: Andrássy út 29
Tel (1) 312 23 62 hefty portions of Renaissance- Tel (1) 343 35 44
This large and bustling café is inspired dishes served by waiters Eternally popular coffeehouse
invariably packed to the gills with in period costume, accompanied that, like Gerbeaud, is as notable
locals filling up on coffee and by Renaissance music. for its extravagant Baroque decor
generously portioned cake slices. as for its coffee and cakes.
Borkonyha 
Govinda Étterem  International Map 2 D5 Vapiano 
Vegetarian Map 2 D5 Sas utca 3 Italian Map 4 D1
Vigyázó Ferenc utca 4 Tel (1) 266 08 35 Closed Sun Bécsi utca 5
Tel (1) 473 13 10 Closed Sun Expect dishes such as rabbit Tel (70) 672 20 99
Individual dishes as well as set millefeuille and suckling pig Collect a card, place your order
meals are served at this fast-food carpaccio at this elegant venue (pizza or pasta), then watch it
style joint, in addition to their Authentic Italian cuisine at Krízia, a few where the wine is as important being prepared directly in front
The graceful architectural design in the dining room at Alabárdos all-you-can-eat menu. minutes’ walk from the State Opera House as the food, which is exceptional. of you. Great fun.
For more information on types of restaurants see pp270–71
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WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK  277

Gresham Kávéház 
Café Map 2 D5
Széchenyi István tér 5–6
Tel (1) 268 60 00
This is a perfect place for
enjoying a light lunch or early
evening meal. Alternatively, opt
for one of the wickedly enticing
cakes any time.
DK Choice
Café Bouchon 
Hungarian and French Map 2 E4
Zichy Jenő utca 33
Tel (1) 353 40 94 Closed Sun
Outstanding combinations of
French and Hungarian flavours
mark out this welcoming little
neighbourhood restaurant that
is popular with theatre-goers.
It is also well stocked with some Folk-inspired decor at the Italian-style Pomo D’Oro
of the country’s finest wines.
The nicely spaced out tables, Krízia  Tigris 
lovely Art Deco furnishings and Italian Map 2 E4 Modern Hungarian Map 2 D5
impeccable service round Mozsár utca 12 Mérleg utca 10
things off beautifully. Tel (1) 331 87 11 Closed Sun Tel (1) 317 37 15 Closed Sun
This pretty restaurant showcases Hungarian cuisine is rendered
some fabulous Italian cuisine; the with flair and ingenuity here,
Café Kör  home-made pastas and noodles from the smoked meats
Modern Hungarian Map 2 D5 are quite something, and there’s prepared in-house to a special
Sas utca 17 a truffle menu too. It closes for the foie gras menu.
Tel (1) 311 00 53 afternoon from 3pm to 6:30pm.
Enticing bowls of salad and Central Pest
grilled meat dishes fill the Marquis de Salade 
menu at this popular, modestly International Map 2 E4 Centrál Kávéház 
sized bistro-style place. Fine Hajós utca 43 Café Map 4 E1
wines too. Tel (30) 223 35 20 Károlyi Mihály utca 9
Dishes from Azerbaijan and Tel (1) 266 21 10
Kispiac Bisztró  Georgia feature strongly in this This was one of Budapest’s
Modern Hungarian Map 2 D4 wittily titled and beautifully foremost literary cafés in the
Hold utca 13 decorated establishment – check early 20th century. It remains a
Tel (1) 269 42 31 Closed Sun out the Persian rugs downstairs. grand affair, and the pastries are
A sweet little local with barely a truly spectacular.
handful of tables, it offers some Pomo D’Oro 
sumptuous dishes, but the Italian Map 2 D4 Gerbeaud 
roasted duck beats the lot. Arany János utca 9 Café Map 2 D5
Tel (1) 302 64 73 Vörösmarty tér 7
A labyrinthine trattoria with large Tel (1) 429 90 00
wood-burning ovens firing up A period gem, exquisitely
thin-crust pizzas; the charcoal- furnished and decorated (see
grilled meats are worth trying too. p98), Gerbeaud has been serving
some of the best, and most
Sir Lancelot Lovagi Étterem  expensive, coffees and cakes in
International Map 2 E3 the country for over 100 years.
Podmaniczky utca 14
Tel (1) 302 44 56 Művész Kávéház 
For those who relish a themed Café Map 2 E4
eating experience, this is ideal: Andrássy út 29
hefty portions of Renaissance- Tel (1) 343 35 44
inspired dishes served by waiters Eternally popular coffeehouse
in period costume, accompanied that, like Gerbeaud, is as notable
by Renaissance music. for its extravagant Baroque decor
as for its coffee and cakes.
Borkonyha 
International Map 2 D5 Vapiano 
Sas utca 3 Italian Map 4 D1
Tel (1) 266 08 35 Closed Sun Bécsi utca 5
Expect dishes such as rabbit Tel (70) 672 20 99
millefeuille and suckling pig Collect a card, place your order
carpaccio at this elegant venue (pizza or pasta), then watch it
Authentic Italian cuisine at Krízia, a few where the wine is as important being prepared directly in front
minutes’ walk from the State Opera House as the food, which is exceptional. of you. Great fun.
For more information on types of restaurants see pp270–71
276-285_EW_Hungary.indd 277 18/09/17 3:41 pm

278  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK  279

Kárpátia Étterem  Araz  Gundel Étterem 
Hungarian Map 4 E1 French Map 2 F5 Hungarian
Ferenciek tere 7–8 Dohány utca 42–44 Állatkerti körút 4
Tel (1) 317 35 96 Closed lunch Tel (1) 815 11 00 Tel (1) 889 81 11
Open since 1877, standards in Relish comforting French dishes, Budapest’s most famous
this beautifully ornamented such as chicken breast with creamy restaurant offers innovative
establishment remain impeccably kale, and Hungarian classics; the Hungarian and international
high; the food is usually spot on. Sunday brunch is a good bet too. cuisine in posh surrounds, and
people flock here for their
Két Szerecsen  Carmel Étterem  Sunday brunch.
Spanish Map 2 E4 Jewish Map 2 E5
Nagymező utca 14 Kazinczy utca 31 La Perle Noire 
Tel (1) 343 19 84 Tel (1) 342 45 85 Closed Fri eve International
A varied tapas menu at this bright, This legendary kosher restaurant Andrássy út 111
buzzy place complements a is invariably crowded with locals, Tel (1) 462 21 89
strong selection of mains, such as who come here to enjoy its Inventive, French-inspired
salmon steamed in white wine. famed solet (cholent), a slow- gourmet restaurant located
cooked stew with smoked goose. inside the smart Mamaison
Kőleves Vendéglő  Andrássy Hotel. It offers an
Hungarian Map 2 E5 Costes  unsurpassable wine list.
Kazinczy utca 37–41 International Map 4 E2 Snacking at pavement tables at the Eco Cafe
Tel (1) 322 10 11 Ráday utca 4 Robinson 
Jerusalem artichoke cream soup Tel (1) 219 06 97 Closed Mon & Rézkakas Bisztró  Hungarian food writer Gyula Krudy International
with roast walnuts is a typical Tue; lunch Wed–Sun Hungarian Map 2 D5 ate here over a century ago. The Városligeti Tó
Araz, offering a repertoire of both French dish in this quaint, rather Costes is one of three Michelin- Sas utca 3 rustic decor evokes an old-world Tel (1) 422 02 22
and Hungarian dishes idiosyncratic restaurant. starred restaurants in Budapest. Tel (1) 267 03 49 feel. Live music every evening. In an unbeatable location on
If your pocket can stretch to it, The “Golden Cockerel” is a smart- the lake: the outdoor terrace is
DK Choice DK Choice you’ll be treated to an unfor- looking establishent offering Kerék Vendéglő  a wonderful spot to indulge in
some exotic seafood dishes.
gettable array of colour, flavour
classic Hungarian dishes, and
Hungarian
Borbíróság  Menza  and texture combinations. the live music is recommended. Bécsi út 103
Modern Hungarian Map 4 E2 Modern Hungarian Map 2 E4 Tel (1) 250 42 61 DK Choice
Csarnok tér 5 Liszt Ferenc tér 2 Fausto’s  Further Afield Another landmark restaurant up
Tel (1) 219 09 02 Closed Sun Tel (1) 413 14 82 Italian Map 2 F5 in Obuda: the pretty garden is a Rosenstein 
Across from the Great Market By far the most appealing, and Dohány utca 3 Briós kávézó  lovely place to dine on the likes Hungarian
Hall, this fantastic-looking popular, place on this busy Tel (30) 589 18 13 Closed Sun Café Map 2 D2 of venison stew. Mosonyi utca 3
restaurant has a split-level square, Menza offers sublime This gorgeously understated Pozsonyi út 16 Tel (1) 333 34 92
interior and small terrace. The retro-inspired food amidst uber- restaurant remains the best Tel (1) 794 62 62 New York Kávéház  In an area near Keleti station
highlights of a limited but cool 1970s decor, and there’s a Italian option in Budapest; on This family-friendly café serves Café Map 2 F5 not known for fine dining,
exceptional menu are the duck fabulous terrace too. The two- Wednesdays and Thursdays super breakfasts including filled Erzsébet körút 9–11 this is a true standout; an
carpaccio and duck steak, course lunch menu is a steal. there’s an oyster menu. croissants and American pancakes. Tel (1) 886 61 67 inviting, family-run establish-
though there are many more New York Kávéhaz is another of ment offering its guests a
options, like tuna and veal with Klassz  Eco Cafe  Budapest’s great literary cafes of sophisticated menu, with
foie gras. The choice and quality Soul Café  International Map 2 E4 Café Map 2 F3 yesteryear, though these days it’s plates such as wild boar ragout
of wine is second to none. Hungarian and French Map 4 E2 Andrássy utca 41 Andrássy út 68 even more exclusive, and pricey. with forest mushrooms, as
Ráday utca 11–13 As much wine bar as restaurant, Cheery bio café and bakery well as some Jewish favourites.
Tel (1) 217 69 86 this small but striking place offers serving up a selection of fresh The wine list is similarly of the
Cyrano  This lightly North African-themed an accomplished menu. They sandwiches, cakes and salads in DK Choice highest order.
International Map 4 D1 restaurant offers beautifully pre- don’t take bookings, therefore a vaguely countrified interior. Bock Bisztró 
Kristóf tér 7 pared French and Moroccan food. do not list a telephone number. Modern Hungarian Map 2 F5
Tel (1) 266 47 47 Rétes Büfé  Erzsébet körút 43–49 Zeller Bistro 
Toasted goat’s cheese with Café Tel (1) 321 03 40 Modern Hungarian
lavender and honey is the Normafa, Eötvös utca 50 Named after the eponymous Izabella utca 38
signature dish here, which A hut at the top of the Buda Hills Hungarian vintner, Bock is one Tel (30) 651 08 80 Closed Sun & Mon
gives you some idea as to where you can choose from a classy establishment, from the Small but utterly charming
the inventiveness on offer. delectable range of pastries to elegant cork-filled glass tables restaurant offering outstanding
munch on alongside your coffee. to the beautifully crafted food; nouvelle cuisine, and you won’t
Fülemüle Étterem  well-thought-out tapas dishes find better service anywhere
Jewish Map 4 F1 Bagolyvár Étterem  complement exciting renditions in the city. It closes between
Kőfaragó utca 5 Hungarian of rich Hungarian fare like veal 3pm and 6pm.
Tel (70) 305 30 00 Gundel Károly út 4 paprika. The wine list is one of
This homely, old-style, family-run Tel (1) 889 81 27 the finest in Budapest.
restaurant serves typical Jewish The little sister of the famous
meals like solet, goose stew, and Gundel restaurant (see right), the Around Budapest
goose soup with dumplings. enchanting “Owl Castle” offers Csalogány utca 26 
homely Hungarian cooking at Modern Hungarian Map 1 B3 ESZTERGOM: Csülök Csárda 
Gerlóczy Kávéház  more affordable prices. Csalogány utca 26 Hungarian Road Map C3
Modern Hungarian Map 4 E1 Tel (1) 201 78 92 Closed Tue & Sat Batthyány utca 9
Gerlóczy utca 1 Kéhli Vendéglő  This distinguished restaurant/ Tel (33) 412 420
Tel (1) 501 40 00 Hungarian café has a modern, bright and The cosy “Knuckle Inn” serves,
Not only does this atmospheric Mókus utca 22 breezy interior. Excellent poultry, unsurprisingly, a range of pork
street corner cafe offer delicious Tel (1) 368 06 13 fish and meat dishes grilled on knuckle dishes, as well as other
Hungarian fare, but it’s also a Standards at this delightful inn lava stones for a real burst of traditional and hearty fare such
great place for breakfast. Fillet steak with sweet roasted garlic and wild mushrooms at Menza have not dropped since the great flavour. Closes from 3pm to 7pm. as smoked ox tongue.
Key to Price Guide see p276 For more information on types of restaurants see pp270–71
276-285_EW_Hungary.indd 278 18/09/17 3:41 pm 276-285_EW_Hungary.indd 279 18/09/17 3:41 pm

WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK  279

Gundel Étterem 
Hungarian
Állatkerti körút 4
Tel (1) 889 81 11
Budapest’s most famous
restaurant offers innovative
Hungarian and international
cuisine in posh surrounds, and
people flock here for their
Sunday brunch.
La Perle Noire 
International
Andrássy út 111
Tel (1) 462 21 89
Inventive, French-inspired
gourmet restaurant located
inside the smart Mamaison
Andrássy Hotel. It offers an
unsurpassable wine list.
Snacking at pavement tables at the Eco Cafe
Robinson 
Rézkakas Bisztró  Hungarian food writer Gyula Krudy International
Hungarian Map 2 D5 ate here over a century ago. The Városligeti Tó
Sas utca 3 rustic decor evokes an old-world Tel (1) 422 02 22
Tel (1) 267 03 49 feel. Live music every evening. In an unbeatable location on
The “Golden Cockerel” is a smart- the lake: the outdoor terrace is
looking establishent offering Kerék Vendéglő  a wonderful spot to indulge in
classic Hungarian dishes, and Hungarian some exotic seafood dishes.
the live music is recommended. Bécsi út 103
Tel (1) 250 42 61 DK Choice
Further Afield Another landmark restaurant up Rosenstein 
in Obuda: the pretty garden is a
Briós kávézó  lovely place to dine on the likes Hungarian
Café Map 2 D2 of venison stew. Mosonyi utca 3
Pozsonyi út 16 Tel (1) 333 34 92
Tel (1) 794 62 62 New York Kávéház  In an area near Keleti station
This family-friendly café serves Café Map 2 F5 not known for fine dining,
super breakfasts including filled Erzsébet körút 9–11 this is a true standout; an
croissants and American pancakes. Tel (1) 886 61 67 inviting, family-run establish-
New York Kávéhaz is another of ment offering its guests a
Eco Cafe  Budapest’s great literary cafes of sophisticated menu, with
Café Map 2 F3 yesteryear, though these days it’s plates such as wild boar ragout
Andrássy út 68 even more exclusive, and pricey. with forest mushrooms, as
Cheery bio café and bakery well as some Jewish favourites.
serving up a selection of fresh DK Choice The wine list is similarly of the
sandwiches, cakes and salads in highest order.
a vaguely countrified interior. Bock Bisztró 
Modern Hungarian Map 2 F5
Rétes Büfé  Erzsébet körút 43–49 Zeller Bistro 
Café Tel (1) 321 03 40 Modern Hungarian
Normafa, Eötvös utca 50 Named after the eponymous Izabella utca 38
A hut at the top of the Buda Hills Hungarian vintner, Bock is one Tel (30) 651 08 80 Closed Sun & Mon
where you can choose from a classy establishment, from the Small but utterly charming
delectable range of pastries to elegant cork-filled glass tables restaurant offering outstanding
munch on alongside your coffee. to the beautifully crafted food; nouvelle cuisine, and you won’t
well-thought-out tapas dishes find better service anywhere
Bagolyvár Étterem  complement exciting renditions in the city. It closes between
Hungarian of rich Hungarian fare like veal 3pm and 6pm.
Gundel Károly út 4 paprika. The wine list is one of
Tel (1) 889 81 27 the finest in Budapest.
The little sister of the famous
Gundel restaurant (see right), the Around Budapest
enchanting “Owl Castle” offers Csalogány utca 26 
homely Hungarian cooking at Modern Hungarian Map 1 B3 ESZTERGOM: Csülök Csárda 
more affordable prices. Csalogány utca 26 Hungarian Road Map C3
Tel (1) 201 78 92 Closed Tue & Sat Batthyány utca 9
Kéhli Vendéglő  This distinguished restaurant/ Tel (33) 412 420
Hungarian café has a modern, bright and The cosy “Knuckle Inn” serves,
Mókus utca 22 breezy interior. Excellent poultry, unsurprisingly, a range of pork
Tel (1) 368 06 13 fish and meat dishes grilled on knuckle dishes, as well as other
Standards at this delightful inn lava stones for a real burst of traditional and hearty fare such
have not dropped since the great flavour. Closes from 3pm to 7pm. as smoked ox tongue.
For more information on types of restaurants see pp270–71
276-285_EW_Hungary.indd 279 18/09/17 3:41 pm

280  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK  281

VISEGRÁD: Renaissance  DK Choice here to nose around the castle,
Hungarian Road Map C3 the wooden-beamed Castle Inn
Fő utca 11 SOPRON: Erhardt  offers an extensive menu at
Tel (26) 39 80 81 Hungarian Road Map A3 attractive prices.
Medieval-themed, meat-heavy Balfi utca 10
restaurant hammed up for Tel (99) 50 67 11 SZÉKESFERHÉRVAR:
tourists; you can even wear a A beautiful Baroque interior sets Kiskulacs Vendéglő 
cardboard crown if you wish. the scene for food and wine of Hungarian Road Map C4
distinction, and Erhardt certainly Budai út 26
rates as one of the finest restau- Tel (22) 50 29 20
rants in northern Hungary. The If steak is your thing, look no
Northern food combinations – typically further than this local favourite,
Transdanubia with a French or Italian influence which is a great place to enjoy a
– are wonderful, like rabbit leg long, lingering Hungarian meal.
BÜK: Bajor  wrapped in prosciutto with pea Taste wines from ten different
Bavarian Road Map A3 risotto, and mangalica pork regions of Hungary.
Gyurácz utca 6A with garlicky French beans.
Tel (94) 35 83 24 Serious wine lovers should SZOMBATHELY: Öreg Sam
A fine mix of Hungarian and make a beeline for the cellar. Sörkert 
German cuisine is served in this Hungarian Road Map A3
fabulous pension; a plate of gut- Gagarin utca 14
busting home-made sausages SOPRON: Vadászkürt Tel (22) 400 50 00 Closed Sun
Fine Hungarian wines strikingly showcased at La Mareda and a cool, crisp Bavarian beer Vendéglő  Large, frequently rammed
will hit the spot. The Renaissance restaurant in Visegrád, International Road Map A3 beerhall, where the food and
ESZTERGOM: establishment offering good ready for round-table revelries Udvarnoki utca 6 drink has a strong German slant;
Központi Kávéház  game dishes as well as other GYŐR: Belgian Beer Café  Tel (99) 31 43 85 the pretty garden terrace is great
Café Road Map C3 traditional meats: look for goose, Belgian Road Map B3 KŐSZEG: Portré Panzió  From the polished parquet floors for supping in too.
Vörösmarty utca 2 venison and pigeon on its Árpád utca 34 Café Road Map A3 and convivial garden terrace to
Tel (33) 52 05 70 accomplished menu. Tel (96) 88 94 60 Fő tér 7 dishes such as pheasant and SZOMBATHELY: Hotel
This Art Nouveau patisserie-cum- Settle down at one of the Tel (94) 36 31 70 quail egg soup, everything about Wagner 
chocolatier offers an irresistible DK Choice long wooden tables in this Bar, bistro and café all in one, this place exudes class. Modern Hungarian Road Map A3
array of coffees and cakes. perennially popular restaurant this is a super little place to Kossuth Lajos utca 15
SZENTENDRE: Mjam  and feast on moules frites stop off for a light bite or some SOPRON: Wollner  Tel (94) 32 22 08
ESZTERGOM: Primás Pince  International Road Map D3 (mussels and chips) with liquid refreshment. International Road Map A3 Although renowned for its
Hungarian Road Map C3 Városház tér 2 some delicious Belgian beer. Templom utca 20 extensive collection of wines,
Szent István tér 4 Tel (70) 440 37 00 Closed Mon KŐSZEG: Kék Huszár Tel (99) 52 44 00 Closed Sun & Mon the food at the sophisticated
Tel (33) 54 19 65 Closed Sun eve The Danube Bend’s standout GYŐR: Komédiás  Vendéglő  The accent is on refined Wagner hotel lives right up to
Live music and classic Hungarian restaurant offers an innovative Modern Hungarian Road Map B3 Hungarian Road Map A3 international cuisine at this the same standards.
cuisine in the castle cellars: no fusion menu of Asian, South Czuczor Gergely utca 30 Várkör utca 60 glittering cellar restaurant; hence
wonder visitors love this place. American and Caribbean Tel (96) 52 72 17 Tel (94) 36 08 50 dishes such as roast duck with TATA: La Casa 
cuisine, resulting in mouth- An understatedly cool cellar If hungry after a good walk in sour beetroot sauce and polenta. Seafood Road Map C3
GÖDÖLLŐ: Galeria  watering delicacies such as restaurant, Komédiás serves an Kőszeg, visit this restaurant at Országgyűlés tér 3
International Road Map D3 Curaçao burger, fish sausage appealing menu of game, grilled the foot of the castle that dishes SÜMEG: Várcsárda  Tel (30) 768 06 83
Szabadság tér 8 and tempura; all dishes are meats and stews, plus better- up traditional Hungarian food. Hungarian Road Map B4 It’s unusual to find a decent fish
Tel (28) 41 86 91 matched to one of the excellent than-average vegetarian options. Kisfaludy kert restaurant in this part of the
A slight lack of elegance is wines which have been LAKE VELENCE: Tel (87) 35 09 24 country, but this is certainly one;
compensated for by terrific value carefully sourced from both GYŐR: La Maréda  Nádas Étterem  Despite catering mainly to the expect the likes of barbecued
for money and bags of charm in Hungary and abroad. A coffee Modern Hungarian Road Map B3 Hungarian Road Map C4 busloads of visitors that arrive crabs and grilled swordfish.
this unfussy pension restaurant. and croissant breakfast is Apáca utca 4 Agárd, Balatoni út 60
another enticing possibility. Tel (96) 51 09 82 Tel (22) 37 00 06
RÁCKEVE: Leányvár Fogadó  This great-looking restaurant It may be the quintessential tourist
Hungarian Road Map C4 dating from the early 17th century restaurant, but that doesn’t make
51-es főút VÁC: Remete Pince  decorated with stucco reliefs; the Nádas Étterem any less enjoyable,
Tel (24) 53 54 78 Hungarian Road Map D3 food doesn’t disappoint either. and the food is surprisingly good.
Authentic Hungarian ambience Fürdő lépcső utca 3
and traditional food add to the Tel (27) 30 21 99 GYŐR: Fonte  LAKE VELENCE: Ponty 
charm of this roadside inn. Intimate brick-vaulted cellar Modern Hungarian Road Map B3 Seafood Road Map C4
with candle-topped tables and Kisfaludy utca 38 Gárdony, Szabadság utca 9
SZENTENDRE: Palapa  wrought-iron chairs makes Tel (96) 51 38 29 Closed Sat & Sun Tel (22) 35 54 54
Mexican Road Map D3 Remete Pince a lovely, relaxing As classy as the hotel in which Dedicated fish restaurant with
Dumsta Jenő utca 14a spot to spend a long evening. it is housed, Fonte offers some heaps of the stuff from the lake,
Tel (26) 30 24 18 Guests can also dine alfresco in enticing pork- and goose-based the best of which is the delicious
Vibrant, colourful restaurant/bar the garden. dishes, as well as a marvellous fogas (pike-perch), typically rolled
with pile-it-high Tex-Mex grub, wine list. in paprika and fried.
fancy cocktails and live music. VISEGRÁD: Don Vito 
Pizzeria Road Map C3 GYŐR: Schweizerhof  SOPRON: Fórum Pizzeria 
SZENTENDRE: Fő utca 83 Modern Hungarian Road Map B3 Pizzeria Road Map A3
Aranysárkány  Tel (20) 373 69 41 Sarkantyú köz 11–13 Szent György utca 3
Modern Hungarian Road Map D3 The Godfather would surely have Tel (96) 51 23 58 Tel (99) 34 02 31
Alkotmány utca 1a approved of this enjoyable joint, Along with Fonte, this is the pick Waiters scuttle around furiously
Tel (26) 30 14 79 whose stone-baked pizzas are of Győr’s restaurants; restrained delivering thin-crust pizzas,
The long-established “Golden superb. It’s a decent spot for a but refined decor, and wonder- spaghetti and lasagne in this
Dragon” is a smart, upscale refreshing pint, too. fully accomplished food. most enjoyable restaurant. Traditional inn-style signage and gateway at Erhardt in Sopron
Key to Price Guide see p276 For more information on types of restaurants see pp270–71
276-285_EW_Hungary.indd 280 18/09/17 3:41 pm 276-285_EW_Hungary.indd 281 18/09/17 3:41 pm

WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK  281


DK Choice here to nose around the castle,
the wooden-beamed Castle Inn
SOPRON: Erhardt  offers an extensive menu at
Hungarian Road Map A3 attractive prices.
Balfi utca 10
Tel (99) 50 67 11 SZÉKESFERHÉRVAR:
A beautiful Baroque interior sets Kiskulacs Vendéglő 
the scene for food and wine of Hungarian Road Map C4
distinction, and Erhardt certainly Budai út 26
rates as one of the finest restau- Tel (22) 50 29 20
rants in northern Hungary. The If steak is your thing, look no
food combinations – typically further than this local favourite,
with a French or Italian influence which is a great place to enjoy a
– are wonderful, like rabbit leg long, lingering Hungarian meal.
wrapped in prosciutto with pea Taste wines from ten different
risotto, and mangalica pork regions of Hungary.
with garlicky French beans.
Serious wine lovers should SZOMBATHELY: Öreg Sam
make a beeline for the cellar. Sörkert 
Hungarian Road Map A3
Gagarin utca 14
SOPRON: Vadászkürt Tel (22) 400 50 00 Closed Sun
Vendéglő  Large, frequently rammed
The Renaissance restaurant in Visegrád, International Road Map A3 beerhall, where the food and
ready for round-table revelries Udvarnoki utca 6 drink has a strong German slant;
Tel (99) 31 43 85 the pretty garden terrace is great
KŐSZEG: Portré Panzió  From the polished parquet floors for supping in too.
Café Road Map A3 and convivial garden terrace to
Fő tér 7 dishes such as pheasant and SZOMBATHELY: Hotel
Tel (94) 36 31 70 quail egg soup, everything about Wagner 
Bar, bistro and café all in one, this place exudes class. Modern Hungarian Road Map A3
this is a super little place to Kossuth Lajos utca 15
stop off for a light bite or some SOPRON: Wollner  Tel (94) 32 22 08
liquid refreshment. International Road Map A3 Although renowned for its
Templom utca 20 extensive collection of wines,
KŐSZEG: Kék Huszár Tel (99) 52 44 00 Closed Sun & Mon the food at the sophisticated
Vendéglő  The accent is on refined Wagner hotel lives right up to
Hungarian Road Map A3 international cuisine at this the same standards.
Várkör utca 60 glittering cellar restaurant; hence
Tel (94) 36 08 50 dishes such as roast duck with TATA: La Casa 
If hungry after a good walk in sour beetroot sauce and polenta. Seafood Road Map C3
Kőszeg, visit this restaurant at Országgyűlés tér 3
the foot of the castle that dishes SÜMEG: Várcsárda  Tel (30) 768 06 83
up traditional Hungarian food. Hungarian Road Map B4 It’s unusual to find a decent fish
Kisfaludy kert restaurant in this part of the
LAKE VELENCE: Tel (87) 35 09 24 country, but this is certainly one;
Nádas Étterem  Despite catering mainly to the expect the likes of barbecued
Hungarian Road Map C4 busloads of visitors that arrive crabs and grilled swordfish.
Agárd, Balatoni út 60
Tel (22) 37 00 06
It may be the quintessential tourist
restaurant, but that doesn’t make
Nádas Étterem any less enjoyable,
and the food is surprisingly good.
LAKE VELENCE: Ponty 
Seafood Road Map C4
Gárdony, Szabadság utca 9
Tel (22) 35 54 54
Dedicated fish restaurant with
heaps of the stuff from the lake,
the best of which is the delicious
fogas (pike-perch), typically rolled
in paprika and fried.
SOPRON: Fórum Pizzeria 
Pizzeria Road Map A3
Szent György utca 3
Tel (99) 34 02 31
Waiters scuttle around furiously
delivering thin-crust pizzas,
spaghetti and lasagne in this
most enjoyable restaurant. Traditional inn-style signage and gateway at Erhardt in Sopron
For more information on types of restaurants see pp270–71
276-285_EW_Hungary.indd 281 18/09/17 3:41 pm

282  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK  283

BALATONFÜRED: KESZTHELY: Lakoma 
Southern Blaha Lujza  International Road Map B4
Transdanubia Hungarian Road Map B4 Balaton utca 9
Blaha Lujza utca 4 Tel (83) 31 31 29
BADACSONY: Borbarátok  Tel (87) 58 12 10 If the stew of cock’s testicles
Hungarian Road Map B4 In the hotel of the same name, doesn’t appeal, then there’s
Római út 88 this quietly refined spot is the plenty more on the menu
Tel (87) 47 10 00 most appealing option in town; to satisfy in this charmingly
Opt to dine in the attractive well-crafted Hungarian standards staffed restaurant.
restaurant, cellar, gallery or and impeccable service.
garden of this superb winery; KESZTHELY: Tompos 
the menu is skewed towards fish, BALATONFÜRED: Borcsa  Modern Hungarian Road Map B4
with nicely thought-out dishes International Road Map B4 Pázmány utca 56
like pike-perch with crab penne. Tagore sétány Tel (30) 396 00 20
Tel (87) 58 12 10 A refreshingly colourful and
BADACSONY: Substantial plates of grilled meat contemporary restaurant with
Kisfaludy Ház  and fish dishes are served to a a menu as long as your arm; a
Hungarian Road Map B4 packed house at this large and typical standout dish could be
Kisfaludy Sándor utca 28 convivial lakeside terrace. grilled goose liver with sour
Tel (87) 43 10 16 cherry ragout.
Beautifully situated amid lush HÉVÍZ: Magyar Csárda  A nod to the baronial banqueting hall at traditional Piroska Csárda, Siófok
vineyards in hills high above the Hungarian Road Map B4 PÉCS: Az Elefántos 
lake, this lovely wooden house Tavirózsa utca 2 Café Road Map C5 SIÓFOK: Calvados Étterem  TIHANY: Pál Csárda 
has some fine game dishes to Tel (83) 34 32 71 Jókai tér 6 Hungarian Road Map C4 Hungarian Road Map B4 Northern Highlands
complement a stellar wine list. This archetypal Hungarian csárda, Tel (72) 21 60 55 Erkel Ferenc utca 11 Viszhang utca 19
offers solid, meat-heavy dishes Part pizzeria, part café, “At the Tel (84) 31 45 79 Tel (87) 44 86 05 EGER: Görög kávézó 
BALATONFÜRED: and a regular band of Gypsy Elephant” is a fun place to stop Calvados is a good place to sample A pretty vine­shaded terrace, a Café Road Map E3
Arany Csillag  musicians to keep things lively. off for a quick coffee, or to traditional Hungarian food pre­ warm buzz and some great­value Dobó utca 22
Pizzeria Road Map B4 perhaps linger a while longer pared from local produce. Pork daily set menus make this one of Tel (36) 41 55 35 Closed evenings
Zsigmond utca 1 HÉVÍZ: Tavirózsa  over something more substantial. dishes are made from mangalica the more enticing possibilities It’s not easy finding good
Tel (87) 48 21 16 Hungarian Road Map B4 pork, known for its unsaturated fat. in the village. espresso in Hungary, but you
This warm and buzzy pizzeria Tavirózsa út 4 PÉCS: Jókai Bisztró  can here. Whilst you’re at it, try
can conjure up some two dozen Tel (83) 34 05 49 Modern Hungarian Road Map C5 SIÓFOK: DK Choice one of the calorific cakes too.
types of pizza, including stuffed A few paces along from Magyar Jókai tér 6 Magyar Halászcsárda 
ones, as well as fresh pasta and Csárda (above), this is possibly a Tel (20) 360 73 37 Seafood Road Map C4 VESZPRÉM: Oliva  EGER: Il Padrino Pizza Club 
crisp salads. little more polished and with This bright, colourful and crisp- Petőfi sétány 3 International Road Map B4 Pizzeria Road Map E3
superior vegetarian offerings. looking restaurant offers highly Tel (84) 50 67 86 Buhim utca 14–16 Fazola Henrik utca 1
BALATONFÜRED: appealing dishes like roasted red The most agreeable of the many Tel (88) 56 19 00 Tel (36) 78 60 40
Karolina Kávéház  KESZTHELY: Bacchus  pepper risotto with mangalica lakeside restaurants, this large, It’s unusual to find a restaurant Italian visitors love this place,
Café Road Map B4 Modern Hungarian Road Map B4 pork, and melon salad with two­floored establishment serves outside Budapest where the that’s how good it is; the smoked
Zákonyi sétány 4 Erzsébet királyné utca 18 prawns and raspberry vinaigrette. heaps of fishy treats. food combinations are so meat pizzas are particularly
Tel (87) 58 30 98 Tel (83) 378 56 66 varied, but the chef at Oliva worth devouring.
An effortlessly cool café and Lake fish takes pride of place on PÉCS: Susogó SIÓFOK: Piroska Csárda  consistently manages to come
cocktail bar with soft lighting the menu at Bacchus, whose Borvendéglő  Hungarian Road Map C4 up with some ingeniously EGER: Fehérszarvas
and fabulous furniture, Karolina handsome interior features dark Modern Hungarian Road Map C5 Zamárdi út 37 thought­out dishes like crispy Vadásztanya 
Kávéház serves cracking cakes wooden beams, tables and chairs Szőlő utca 54 Tel (84) 35 06 83 breaded crab tails with chilli Hungarian Road Map E3
and coffee. crafted from old wine presses. Tel (70) 291 04 03 Treat yourself to a steaming bowl jam. The best part about Klapka György utca 8
A wine shop that doubles as of goulash in this cheery old­style Oliva, however, is the grill Tel (36) 52 22 74
a restaurant, Susogó is a great csárda with tables set around a garden where, in summer, As the rows of stuffed (animal)
place to savour first-rate vast open hearth and folk art there are regular barbecues heads would suggest, game is
Hungarian wines, accompanied adorning the walls. accompanied by live jazz. very much the theme here at
by modern Hungarian food. the “White Deer Hunter’s Farm”
TIHANY: Echo Étterem  restaurant. Folklore shows, too.
PÉCS: Tüke Borház  Modern Hungarian Road Map B4 VESZPRÉM: Villa Medici 
International Road Map C5 Viszhang domb 23 International Road Map B4 DK Choice
Böckh János utca 39 Tel (70) 946 66 87 Kittenberger Kálmán utca 11
Tel (20) 317 81 78 Closed Mon–Wed, Soak up magnificent lake views Tel (88) 59 00 70 EGER: Macok Bisztró 
Sun eve from the terrace of this funky Posh and fantastically pricey International Road Map E3
It’s worth the steep uphill walk café­cum­restaurant; clever restaurant, but worth every Tinódi Sebestyén tér 4
for both the views and the utterly interpretations of Hungarian penny; guinea fowl consommé Tel (36) 51 61 80 Closed Sun eve
delicious food, such as oven- standards, such as goose liver on with porcini­stuffed pasta is The striking bistro in the Imola
roasted pork knuckle, red tuna sweet milk loaf with caramelized typical of the fine dining menu. hotel bears all the hallmarks of
steak and Argentine sirloin. apples, are to the fore here. a top­class restaurant – neatly
VILLÁNY: Oportó Panzió  arranged tables with crisp white
SIÓFOK: Amigó Étterem  TIHANY: Ferenc Pince  Modern Hungarian Road Map C6 tablecloths beckon. Foie gras
Pizzeria Road Map C4 Hungarian Road Map B4 Baross Gábor utca 33 brûlée, smoked trout mousse
Fő utca 99 Cser-hegy 9 Tel (72) 49 25 82 and carp tempura give you
Tel (84) 31 09 23 Tel (87) 44 85 75 Closed Tue A foodie and wine­lover’s treat; some idea of what to expect;
If you like your food hot, then Pleasantly secluded restaurant and beautifully presented food is the four­ or six­course tasting
check out the “sharpfood” menu winery 1 km (half a mile) south of created here to complement menus are flavour sensations.
at this modern eatery whose the village, Ferenc Pince is worth the outstanding wine from the The adjoining St Andrea wine
menu extends beyond the two the trek for its grilled and roast cellar. The imperial­style decor, bar is also worth a visit.
Art Nouveau prints soften the modern styling at Karolina Kávéház, Balatonfüred dozen or so pizzas on offer. meat dishes, and wine, of course. meanwhile, is stunning.
Key to Price Guide see p276 For more information on types of restaurants see pp270–71
276-285_EW_Hungary.indd 282 18/09/17 3:41 pm 276-285_EW_Hungary.indd 283 18/09/17 3:41 pm

WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK  283




















A nod to the baronial banqueting hall at traditional Piroska Csárda, Siófok
SIÓFOK: Calvados Étterem  TIHANY: Pál Csárda 
Hungarian Road Map C4 Hungarian Road Map B4 Northern Highlands
Erkel Ferenc utca 11 Viszhang utca 19
Tel (84) 31 45 79 Tel (87) 44 86 05 EGER: Görög kávézó 
Calvados is a good place to sample A pretty vine­shaded terrace, a Café Road Map E3
traditional Hungarian food pre­ warm buzz and some great­value Dobó utca 22
pared from local produce. Pork daily set menus make this one of Tel (36) 41 55 35 Closed evenings
dishes are made from mangalica the more enticing possibilities It’s not easy finding good
pork, known for its unsaturated fat. in the village. espresso in Hungary, but you
can here. Whilst you’re at it, try
SIÓFOK: DK Choice one of the calorific cakes too.
Magyar Halászcsárda 
Seafood Road Map C4 VESZPRÉM: Oliva  EGER: Il Padrino Pizza Club 
Petőfi sétány 3 International Road Map B4 Pizzeria Road Map E3
Tel (84) 50 67 86 Buhim utca 14–16 Fazola Henrik utca 1
The most agreeable of the many Tel (88) 56 19 00 Tel (36) 78 60 40
lakeside restaurants, this large, It’s unusual to find a restaurant Italian visitors love this place,
two­floored establishment serves outside Budapest where the that’s how good it is; the smoked
heaps of fishy treats. food combinations are so meat pizzas are particularly
varied, but the chef at Oliva worth devouring.
SIÓFOK: Piroska Csárda  consistently manages to come
Hungarian Road Map C4 up with some ingeniously EGER: Fehérszarvas
Zamárdi út 37 thought­out dishes like crispy Vadásztanya 
Tel (84) 35 06 83 breaded crab tails with chilli Hungarian Road Map E3
Treat yourself to a steaming bowl jam. The best part about Klapka György utca 8
of goulash in this cheery old­style Oliva, however, is the grill Tel (36) 52 22 74
csárda with tables set around a garden where, in summer, As the rows of stuffed (animal)
vast open hearth and folk art there are regular barbecues heads would suggest, game is
adorning the walls. accompanied by live jazz. very much the theme here at
the “White Deer Hunter’s Farm”
TIHANY: Echo Étterem  restaurant. Folklore shows, too.
Modern Hungarian Road Map B4 VESZPRÉM: Villa Medici 
Viszhang domb 23 International Road Map B4 DK Choice
Tel (70) 946 66 87 Kittenberger Kálmán utca 11
Soak up magnificent lake views Tel (88) 59 00 70 EGER: Macok Bisztró 
from the terrace of this funky Posh and fantastically pricey International Road Map E3
café­cum­restaurant; clever restaurant, but worth every Tinódi Sebestyén tér 4
interpretations of Hungarian penny; guinea fowl consommé Tel (36) 51 61 80 Closed Sun eve
standards, such as goose liver on with porcini­stuffed pasta is The striking bistro in the Imola
sweet milk loaf with caramelized typical of the fine dining menu. hotel bears all the hallmarks of
apples, are to the fore here. a top­class restaurant – neatly
VILLÁNY: Oportó Panzió  arranged tables with crisp white
TIHANY: Ferenc Pince  Modern Hungarian Road Map C6 tablecloths beckon. Foie gras
Hungarian Road Map B4 Baross Gábor utca 33 brûlée, smoked trout mousse
Cser-hegy 9 Tel (72) 49 25 82 and carp tempura give you
Tel (87) 44 85 75 Closed Tue A foodie and wine­lover’s treat; some idea of what to expect;
Pleasantly secluded restaurant and beautifully presented food is the four­ or six­course tasting
winery 1 km (half a mile) south of created here to complement menus are flavour sensations.
the village, Ferenc Pince is worth the outstanding wine from the The adjoining St Andrea wine
the trek for its grilled and roast cellar. The imperial­style decor, bar is also worth a visit.
meat dishes, and wine, of course. meanwhile, is stunning.
For more information on types of restaurants see pp270–71
276-285_EW_Hungary.indd 283 18/09/17 3:41 pm

284  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK  285

EGER: Szantofer Vendéglő  MISKOLC: Café du Boucher  DEBRECEN: Bohem Belgian
Modern Hungarian Road Map E3 Belgian Road Map E2 Beer Café 
Bródy Sándor utca 3 Görgey Artúr utca 42 Belgian Road Map F3
Tel (36) 51 72 98 Tel (46) 43 23 20 Piac utca 29
Classic Hungarian cuisine – pork A little pricey but good, this beer Tel (52) 53 63 73
knuckle, paprika, veal stew and café offers generously portioned, At this pub-style place guests can
the like – is prepared here, but Belgian-accented food that tuck into Belgian standards like
jazzed up for modern tastes. complements the enticing line-up mussels and boudin sausages,
of draught beers to perfection. all washed down with Leffe ale.
GYÖNGYÖS:
Kékes Étterem  PARÁDFÜRDŐ: DEBRECEN:
International Road Map D3 Erzsébet Park Hotel  Csokonai Étterem 
Fő tér 7 Modern Hungarian Road Map E3 Modern Hungarian Road Map F3
Tel (37) 31 19 15 Kossuth út 372 Kossuth utca 21
This superb Secessionist house Tel (36) 54 40 00 Tel (52) 41 08 02
has beautifully arranged tables on Formal without being overly stuffy, A sweet cellar restaurant with wall
which diners can feast on dishes the high-class restaurant in the lamps and candle-topped tables,
such as braised veal with roasted Park is worth making a stop for, Csokonai is perfect for a romantic
peaches and almond potatoes. as much for the ambience and dalliance. Trout fillet with Cognac
parkland vistas as the food itself. sauce is a typical offering.
HOLLÓKŐ:
Muskátli Vendéglő  SÁROSPATAK: DEBRECEN: IKON  Modern elegance warmed by soft lighting at Tiszavirág in Szeged
Hungarian Road Map D2 V. András Étterem  Guests dining alfresco at the quintessentially Modern Hungarian Road Map F3
Kossuth út 61 Hungarian Road Map F2 rustic Hortobágyi Csárda Piac utca 23 Camembert), while the restaurant guests can dine on garlic goose
Tel (32) 37 92 62 Closed Mon & Tue Béla király tér 3 Tel (30) 555 77 66 Closed Mon, itself looks fabulous, particularly liver, and an adjoining lounge-
A cutesy little coffee shop in Tel (47) 31 24 15 offers mouthwatering dishes like Sun eve the mosaic-tiled flooring. like area for pizzas and suchlike.
one of the village’s UNESCO- Mellow place with model airships breaded goose liver with spring One of the new breed of modern
protected houses, this place also and aeroplanes dangling from the onion mash and fried apples. A Hungarian ventures, IKON special- KECSKEMÉT: SZEGED:
rustles up simple, peasant-style ceiling – not that any distractions pleasant summer terrace looks izes in imaginative gastronomic Kecskeméti Csárda  Kiskörössy Halászcsárda 
dishes. Closed in the evenings. are needed from the exquisite over the park. fare like rabbit paprikás and duck Hungarian Road Map D4 Seafood Road Map E5
menu, featuring the likes of creamy breast with cabbage ravioli. Kölcsey utca 7 Felső Tisza-part 336
LILLAFÜRED: veal stew with mushrooms. Tel (76) 48 86 86 Closed Sun eve Tel (62) 55 58 86
Mátyás Étterem  GYULA: Várkonyi This is a classic Hungarian csárda, On the banks of the Tisza,
Hungarian Road Map E2 SÁROSPATAK: The Great Plain Bisztró és Bár  with blue-dyed tablecloths, this was a favoured haunt of
Erzsébet sétány 1 Vár Vendéglő  International Road Map F4 painted ceramics and strings of England’s Prince of Wales (the
Tel (46) 33 14 11 Modern Hungarian Road Map F2 BAJA: Sobri Halászcsárda  Kossuth utca 14 paprika lining the walls. The house future King Edward VII) in the
Guests can take their pick from Arpád utca 35 Seafood Road Map C5 Tel (66) 63 03 24 speciality, knuckle of mangalica 1890s. It’s still going strong,
several good restau rants inside Tel (47) 31 13 70 Petőfi-sziget, Március 15, sétány 10 The interior here is modelled pork, is not to be missed. and you’ll not find a better fish
the Palota Hotel, though the The restaurant of the pension of Tel (79) 42 06 54 on international bistro trends menu for miles around.
Renaissance-inspired Mátyás the same name, this is a serene Founded by champion Danube and so are many of its dishes. If KISKUNFÉLEGYHÁZA:
just about wins out. little spot with a fantastic halászé (fisherman) Jószef “Sobri” you’re seeking something more Kulacs Vendéglő  DK Choice
wooden-roofed terrace and Farkas, this striking white villa is traditionally Hungarian, Varkonyi Seafood Road Map D4
MISKOLC: Zip’s Brewhouse  some delicious interpretations the place to head to in town for serves that too. Széchenyi István utca 39 SZEGED: Tiszavirág 
International Road Map E2 of classic Hungarian dishes. all things fishy. Tel (76) 43 13 86 International Road Map E5
Arany János tér 1 HAJDÚSZOBOSZLÓ: Very reasonably priced menu Hajnóczy utca 1/b
Tel (46) 95 21 92 TOKAJ: Gróf Degenfeld  BAJA: Véndió Étterem  Kemencés Csárda  of largely steak and fish, with a Tel (62) 55 48 88 Closed Sun,
There’s more to this ace micro- Modern Hungarian Road Map F2 Seafood Road Map C5 Modern Hungarian Road Map F3 dinky terrace for warm weather. Mon lunch
brewery than beer; salivate over Tarcal, Terézia kert 9 Petőfi-sziget, Március 15, sétány 1 Daru zug 1/A There’s often live music. Szeged’s finest hotel has an
foie gras terrine with mango, or Tel (47) 38 01 49 Tel (79) 42 76 55 Tel (52) 36 22 21 equally high-class restaurant,
duck breast gnocchi in a wild The short but superb menu in Not quite in the same league as Generous portions of smoked NYÍRBÁTOR: Hódi  which looks fantastic and is
mushroom sauce. Closed 3–6pm. the posh Degenfeld castle hotel Sobri (above), but very accom- pork knuckle, creamed veg International Road Map G3 made all the more enjoyable
plished all the same, Véndió stews and the like are to be Báthori István utca 11 by the open kitchen. To keep
comes with a sunny, summery found at this rustically styled inn Tel (42) 28 10 12 things fresh, the menu
terrace overlooking the water. where you’re almost certainly Housed in a Baroque hotel, the changes weekly, but expect
guaranteed some live music, too. food here is high-end modern wonderfully concocted dishes
BUGAC: Karikás Csárda  European, though there’s also like rack of lamb with fried
Hungarian Road Map D4 HORTOBÁGY: Hortobágyi plenty of choice of local dishes. buckwheat and yam purée.
Nagybugac 135 Csárda  There’s also a cheerful café
Tel (76) 57 51 12 Hungarian Road Map F3 NYÍREGYHÁZA: Svájci Lak  and a bar offering a well-
People flock to this converted Petőfi tér 1 Modern Hungarian Road Map F3 chosen wine list.
stables at the entrance to the Tel (52) 58 93 38 Sóstógyógyfürdő, Sóstói út 75
park for Puszta specialities like Tourist trappings aside, this Tel (42) 41 44 44
bogrács gulyás, a stew cooked venerable establishment is worth Writer Gyula Krudy and actress TISZAFÜRED:
slowly over an open fire. heading to for local treats such Lujza Blaha would have once Molnár Vendéglő 
as guinea-fowl soup and kettle- dined here at the “Swiss Cottage”. Seafood Road Map E3
DEBRECEN: Flaska Vendéglő  cooked goulash. The lake fish is exceptional. Húszöles út 31/B
Hungarian Road Map F3 Tel (59) 35 27 05
Miklós utca 4 KECSKEMÉT: Géniusz  SZEGED: Alabárdos  Located by the Tisza, it’s entirely
Tel (52) 41 45 82 French Road Map D4 International Road Map E5 appropriate that Molnár serves
The countrified, peasant-style Kisfaludy utca 5 Oskola utca 13 up a welter of fish dishes,
decor sets the scene for regional Tel (76) 49 76 68 Tel (20) 231 35 41 from catfish and carp to pike-
speciality dishes, notably Palóc The food here manifests a French Alabárdos incorporates both perch; try the halpaprikás (fish
The grand Gróf Degenfeld restaurant, located in Degenfeld castle, Tokaj soup and Hortobágy pancakes. twist (stuffed chicken breast with a smart formal section where in paprika sauce).
Key to Price Guide see p276 For more information on types of restaurants see pp270–71
276-285_EW_Hungary.indd 284 18/09/17 3:41 pm 276-285_EW_Hungary.indd 285 18/09/17 3:41 pm

WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK  285

DEBRECEN: Bohem Belgian
Beer Café 
Belgian Road Map F3
Piac utca 29
Tel (52) 53 63 73
At this pub-style place guests can
tuck into Belgian standards like
mussels and boudin sausages,
all washed down with Leffe ale.
DEBRECEN:
Csokonai Étterem 
Modern Hungarian Road Map F3
Kossuth utca 21
Tel (52) 41 08 02
A sweet cellar restaurant with wall
lamps and candle-topped tables,
Csokonai is perfect for a romantic
dalliance. Trout fillet with Cognac
sauce is a typical offering.
DEBRECEN: IKON  Modern elegance warmed by soft lighting at Tiszavirág in Szeged
Modern Hungarian Road Map F3
Piac utca 23 Camembert), while the restaurant guests can dine on garlic goose
Tel (30) 555 77 66 Closed Mon, itself looks fabulous, particularly liver, and an adjoining lounge-
Sun eve the mosaic-tiled flooring. like area for pizzas and suchlike.
One of the new breed of modern
Hungarian ventures, IKON special- KECSKEMÉT: SZEGED:
izes in imaginative gastronomic Kecskeméti Csárda  Kiskörössy Halászcsárda 
fare like rabbit paprikás and duck Hungarian Road Map D4 Seafood Road Map E5
breast with cabbage ravioli. Kölcsey utca 7 Felső Tisza-part 336
Tel (76) 48 86 86 Closed Sun eve Tel (62) 55 58 86
GYULA: Várkonyi This is a classic Hungarian csárda, On the banks of the Tisza,
Bisztró és Bár  with blue-dyed tablecloths, this was a favoured haunt of
International Road Map F4 painted ceramics and strings of England’s Prince of Wales (the
Kossuth utca 14 paprika lining the walls. The house future King Edward VII) in the
Tel (66) 63 03 24 speciality, knuckle of mangalica 1890s. It’s still going strong,
The interior here is modelled pork, is not to be missed. and you’ll not find a better fish
on international bistro trends menu for miles around.
and so are many of its dishes. If KISKUNFÉLEGYHÁZA:
you’re seeking something more Kulacs Vendéglő  DK Choice
traditionally Hungarian, Varkonyi Seafood Road Map D4
serves that too. Széchenyi István utca 39 SZEGED: Tiszavirág 
Tel (76) 43 13 86 International Road Map E5
HAJDÚSZOBOSZLÓ: Very reasonably priced menu Hajnóczy utca 1/b
Kemencés Csárda  of largely steak and fish, with a Tel (62) 55 48 88 Closed Sun,
Modern Hungarian Road Map F3 dinky terrace for warm weather. Mon lunch
Daru zug 1/A There’s often live music. Szeged’s finest hotel has an
Tel (52) 36 22 21 equally high-class restaurant,
Generous portions of smoked NYÍRBÁTOR: Hódi  which looks fantastic and is
pork knuckle, creamed veg International Road Map G3 made all the more enjoyable
stews and the like are to be Báthori István utca 11 by the open kitchen. To keep
found at this rustically styled inn Tel (42) 28 10 12 things fresh, the menu
where you’re almost certainly Housed in a Baroque hotel, the changes weekly, but expect
guaranteed some live music, too. food here is high-end modern wonderfully concocted dishes
European, though there’s also like rack of lamb with fried
HORTOBÁGY: Hortobágyi plenty of choice of local dishes. buckwheat and yam purée.
Csárda  There’s also a cheerful café
Hungarian Road Map F3 NYÍREGYHÁZA: Svájci Lak  and a bar offering a well-
Petőfi tér 1 Modern Hungarian Road Map F3 chosen wine list.
Tel (52) 58 93 38 Sóstógyógyfürdő, Sóstói út 75
Tourist trappings aside, this Tel (42) 41 44 44
venerable establishment is worth Writer Gyula Krudy and actress TISZAFÜRED:
heading to for local treats such Lujza Blaha would have once Molnár Vendéglő 
as guinea-fowl soup and kettle- dined here at the “Swiss Cottage”. Seafood Road Map E3
cooked goulash. The lake fish is exceptional. Húszöles út 31/B
Tel (59) 35 27 05
KECSKEMÉT: Géniusz  SZEGED: Alabárdos  Located by the Tisza, it’s entirely
French Road Map D4 International Road Map E5 appropriate that Molnár serves
Kisfaludy utca 5 Oskola utca 13 up a welter of fish dishes,
Tel (76) 49 76 68 Tel (20) 231 35 41 from catfish and carp to pike-
The food here manifests a French Alabárdos incorporates both perch; try the halpaprikás (fish
twist (stuffed chicken breast with a smart formal section where in paprika sauce).
For more information on types of restaurants see pp270–71
276-285_EW_Hungary.indd 285 18/09/17 3:41 pm

286  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS SHOPPING IN HUNGAR Y  287

SHOPPING IN HUNGARY Szentendre. Other local goods
worth looking out for include
Some people complain that the explosion the bizarre and the beautiful, the useful carpets (especially rugs with
of shopping malls has taken much of and the quirky. Souvenir hunters are spoiled plain, naive designs), and
the charm out of shopping in Hungary, for choice too. Those looking for something wooden toys (especially toy
yet visitors with a little patience and the typically Hungarian could buy Zsolnay soldiers in Habsburg-era
uniforms). Hungary is also
right inside knowledge can still find some porcelain, handmade textiles from the renowned for its wonderful,
of the most wonderful, unique shops in Folkart shops, vintage Tokaji wine, paprika or handmade teddy bears, which
Europe. The city centres bustle with small, spicy Debreceni sausages. Horse-lovers will – although expensive – make
family-owned shops selling inimitable find the craft shops in the towns of the Great superb presents.
trinkets, crafts and luxuries – foie gras is Plain a delight, where saddles, riding boots,
one of the nation’s biggest exports. Then crops and hats are of the highest standard Delicacies
there are the flea markets, packed with and great value. Hungary exports more foie gras
than any other country in the
Opening Times VAT and Tax-Free world with the exception of
Shopping
Most small shops usually open Typical goods for sale at the Central Market Hall in Budapest France. It is available from
at 9am and close at 7pm; some The price of all goods in delicatessens all over the country,
stay open later, until 9pm or Hungary includes a Value called plazas, within walking Handicrafts and Folk art and prices are far lower than
10pm, especially in modern, Added Tax (ÁFA) of 27 per cent. distance of the city centre. Open Hungary has a long tradition abroad. Look out for the distinctive
purpose-built shopping With the exception of works until late, and with a vast variety of producing high-quality black and gold labels and
centres. Most shops open all of art and antiques, it is of food outlets, as well as multi- porcelain and pottery, with packaging of the Rex Ciborum
day on Saturday, and many possible for non-EU residents screen cinemas, these all-purpose the Herend and Zsolnay brand: a guarantee of quality.
outlets also open their doors to claim back the ÁFA on any malls are very popular. In all, names carrying a worldwide Paprika – as a condiment –
on Sundays. Markets are set purchase costing more than there are more than 110 plazas reputation. Herend porcelain can be bought in all colours,
up seven days a week. Large 45,000 forints (€175) when in towns around the country. is famous for its decorative shapes, varieties and degrees
supermarkets also open seven leaving the country. There are also 115 popular and highly colourful designs, of heat in Hungary. Alterna tively
days a week, until at least 8pm. If you wish to reclaim the Tesco hypermarkets, selling a and the factory shop in there are many products
Some, usually smaller shops tax, you must make sure when wide range of food and non-food the small town of Herend containing paprika as
open on public holidays, with purchasing the item that the items. With a few exceptions, (see p207), north of an ingredient, from
the exception of Christmas shop will be able to give you however, they are on the Lake Balaton, stocks paprika pastes to spicy
Day and New Year’s Day. Many a special ÁFA refund receipt. outskirts of cities, and difficult a small selection of Hungarian salamis or
small kiosks selling bus tickets, Only those shops geared to to reach without a car. recent productions. sausages (try gyulai
alcohol, groceries and house- selling to foreign tourists tend The Zsolnay porce lain kolbász or Debreceni, for
hold essentials are open 24 Dried paprika and handmade wicker to keep the necessary forms to Markets factory in Pécs (see example). Most cheeses
hours a day. baskets in the market in Tihany hand. You then have to present p190) also has a shop. are mild; the pungent
the paperwork and the goods, Markets of all sorts are an Bright colours are also Pálpusztai is a glorious
further means of identification, together with your passport, essential part of everyday life characteristic of Ajka Paste made from exception, if something
Payment
so carry your passport with at a customs post within all over Hungary. Apart from crystal, which has Hungarian paprika of a liability in one’s
Most shops now accept credit you while shopping. 90 days of purchase in order good, fresh produce, they been recognized as luggage. Markets all
and debit cards, though Visitors are advised to have to receive customs certification offer a delightfully traditional Hungary’s finest for over the country will also sell
producing one from your wallet a fair amount of cash on them for your claim form. To apply shopping experience to visitors. more than 150 years. It is their own regional specialities.
may elicit groans from the at all times, however, as some for the refund, your sales Many cities also organize open- made in the small town
vendor. If you are using a debit smaller shops will simply refuse receipt and currency exchange air craft and folk art markets. The of Ajka, close to Veszprém.
card, you may be asked for to take payment with a card. or credit card receipt are also best is in Hollókő and, though There are two stores selling Equestrian Goods
required. The money can some of the wares are kitsch Ajka crystal in the village Given the pedigree of its
then be claimed within 183 by most standards, prices are itself, and many more horsemen, such as the famous
days of returning home. good and souvenir ideas limit- throughout Hungary. Puszta Fivers (see p239), it comes
Payment is usually made direct less. Debrecen city council also For best examples of the as no surprise to discover that
to a bank account, minus a organizes an excellent craft fair finest Hungarian embroidery Hungary is a great place to
small service charge. during August in Kossuth tér. (found on dresses, tablecloths, purchase tack. Finely crafted
place mats and saddles made from the best
cushion covers), the leather, boots, bridles, crops
Department Stores village museum of and even polo mallets are made
and Shopping Malls
Hollókő is a great to the highest specifications at
There are a number of outlet. Prices are high, a great number of workshops
department stores in Hungary, but the quality is through out the country. The
many of which are housed outstanding. Lower- best are those from the Great
in spectacular old buildings. priced examples can Plain – Hungary’s pre-eminent
Besides the enormous be found in the many equestrian region – and there is
shopping centres in Budapest, stalls and small shops no shortage of excellent sporting
Debrecen, Pécs and Szeged all that line the busy goods shops in Debrecen,
Westend City Center shopping mall in Budapest have large shopping centres, Traditional folk crafts in a Szentendre market pedestrian streets of Hortobágy and Szeged.




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SHOPPING IN HUNGAR Y  287


Szentendre. Other local goods
worth looking out for include
carpets (especially rugs with
plain, naive designs), and
wooden toys (especially toy
soldiers in Habsburg-era
uniforms). Hungary is also
renowned for its wonderful,
handmade teddy bears, which
– although expensive – make
superb presents.

Delicacies
Hungary exports more foie gras
than any other country in the
world with the exception of
Typical goods for sale at the Central Market Hall in Budapest France. It is available from
delicatessens all over the country,
Handicrafts and Folk art
called plazas, within walking and prices are far lower than
distance of the city centre. Open Hungary has a long tradition abroad. Look out for the distinctive
until late, and with a vast variety of producing high-quality black and gold labels and
of food outlets, as well as multi- porcelain and pottery, with packaging of the Rex Ciborum
screen cinemas, these all-purpose the Herend and Zsolnay brand: a guarantee of quality.
malls are very popular. In all, names carrying a worldwide Paprika – as a condiment –
there are more than 110 plazas reputation. Herend porcelain can be bought in all colours,
in towns around the country. is famous for its decorative shapes, varieties and degrees
There are also 115 popular and highly colourful designs, of heat in Hungary. Alterna tively
Tesco hypermarkets, selling a and the factory shop in there are many products
wide range of food and non-food the small town of Herend containing paprika as
items. With a few exceptions, (see p207), north of an ingredient, from
however, they are on the Lake Balaton, stocks paprika pastes to spicy
outskirts of cities, and difficult a small selection of Hungarian salamis or
to reach without a car. recent productions. sausages (try gyulai
The Zsolnay porce lain kolbász or Debreceni, for
factory in Pécs (see example). Most cheeses
Markets p190) also has a shop. are mild; the pungent
Markets of all sorts are an Bright colours are also Pálpusztai is a glorious
essential part of everyday life characteristic of Ajka Paste made from exception, if something
all over Hungary. Apart from crystal, which has Hungarian paprika of a liability in one’s
good, fresh produce, they been recognized as luggage. Markets all
offer a delightfully traditional Hungary’s finest for over the country will also sell
shopping experience to visitors. more than 150 years. It is their own regional specialities.
Many cities also organize open- made in the small town
air craft and folk art markets. The of Ajka, close to Veszprém.
best is in Hollókő and, though There are two stores selling Equestrian Goods
some of the wares are kitsch Ajka crystal in the village Given the pedigree of its
by most standards, prices are itself, and many more horsemen, such as the famous
good and souvenir ideas limit- throughout Hungary. Puszta Fivers (see p239), it comes
less. Debrecen city council also For best examples of the as no surprise to discover that
organizes an excellent craft fair finest Hungarian embroidery Hungary is a great place to
during August in Kossuth tér. (found on dresses, tablecloths, purchase tack. Finely crafted
place mats and saddles made from the best
cushion covers), the leather, boots, bridles, crops
village museum of and even polo mallets are made
Hollókő is a great to the highest specifications at
outlet. Prices are high, a great number of workshops
but the quality is through out the country. The
outstanding. Lower- best are those from the Great
priced examples can Plain – Hungary’s pre-eminent
be found in the many equestrian region – and there is
stalls and small shops no shortage of excellent sporting
that line the busy goods shops in Debrecen,
Traditional folk crafts in a Szentendre market pedestrian streets of Hortobágy and Szeged.




286-287_EW_Hungary.indd 287 14/11/2017 16:49

288  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS ENTER T AINMENT IN HUNGAR Y  289

ENTERTAINMENT IN HUNGARY Casinos were once ubiquitous DIRECTORY
in Hungary, but gaming laws
The range of cultural events and Debrecen – feature regularly on the enacted in 2012 forced most Theatres & Opera
entertainment in Hungary is wide and richly international arts calendar. Yet even of them to close; less than ten Houses
varied. It is a vibrant country where people the smallest Hungarian town usually has casinos are now licensed in the Miskolc Grand National
have always known how to have a good time, its own orchestra, dance company and whole of the country. The Theatre (Miskolci Nemzeti
same laws removed the slot
and both mainstream and more eclectic theatre, while during the summer central machines once found in almost Színház)
Déryné utca 1, Miskolc.
forms of entertainment have always been squares and plazas are abuzz with outdoor every Hungarian café and Tel (46) 51 67 35. ∑ mnsz.eu
encouraged. Music festivals – from opera in concerts, plays and other artistic happenings. bar. While the dress code at Pécs National Theatre (Pécsi
Miskolc, Baroque music in Sopron and jazz in For entertainment in Budapest see pp120–21. the casinos still in business Nemzeti Színház)
has largely been relaxed, Színház tér 1, Pécs.
visitors must purchase a token
Music, Opera, Dance of music festivals throughout “membership” in order to enter, Tel (72) 51 26 60. ∑ pnsz.hu
and Cinema Hungary, including the annual so take some photo ID. Festivals
While Budapest is home to one Jazz Days in Debrecen, and
of Europe’s finest opera houses, the Baroque and Early Music Pony riding in Budapest, one of many Debrecen Jazz Days
it does not hold a monopoly Days of Sopron, see pp34–7. Information activities for children ∑ iranydebrecen.hu
on Hungarian opera and music. Most major Hungarian cities The best listings magazines in Miskolc Opera Festival
In Miskolc, for example, the have a multiplex cinema, usually Hungary are published by Pesti aqua parks such as those in ∑ operafesztival.hu
sub lime Grand National housed within the city’s shopping Est, the famous Budapest weekly. Debre cen and Zalaegerszeg Sopron Early Music Days
Theatre often hosts excellent centre. They show a wide range Though published almost entirely (see p290). ∑ filharmonia.hu
operatic performances. During of films, some in the original in Hungarian, the colourful ads
the Miskolc Opera Festival, language. Most foreign films should be decipherable to most Spectator Sports Pubs, Clubs & Discos
held over two weeks in June, in Hungary are dubbed, people. As it is published weekly
some of the world’s best although films with subtitles in 22 Hungarian cities visitors Football (soccer) is the most Cocomo Café
performers can be seen here. only are also screened at some can find local editions of Est popular spectator sport in Zákonyi Ferenc sétány 4
Pécs also has a rich cultural cinemas, especially in Budapest. Palace Disco, a lively nightspot distributed for free in Hun gary. The domestic (Silver Court), Balatonfüred.
heritage. The city has both opera Non-Hungarian speakers in Siófok many bars, restaurants, league is highly com­ Tel (70) 330 33 78.
and ballet companies of world should opt for the angol nyelvű Nightlife hotels and shops. peti tive, and crowds Expresszó Club
renown, performing at the (English soundtrack) version. Hotel reception desks can be large. The Brusznyai Árpád utca 2, Veszprém.
National Theatre, usually Films may even be shown in While for nightlife nowhere and TourInform offices country’s best sides Tel (20) 938 04 11.
accom panied by the Pannon English with no subtitles at all – in Hungary compares to will also usually be include Újpest, Hon véd Mythos Music Club
Phil har monic Orchestra. Some these are advertised as angol Buda pest, there are plenty of happy to help visitors and Ferenc város of Szabadság tér 1, Veszprém.
of the finest choirs in Hungary nyelvű, felirat nélkül (English night spots in the regions to with information Budapest; Video ton
gather here to celebrate the language, no subtitles). The keep disco dancers and night about concerts Székes fehérvár; Palace Dance Club
grape harvest in autumn with cinemas also show Hungarian owls happy. The university cities and nightlife. Zala eger szeg; and Vécsey Károly utca 20, Siófok.
ten days of wine and song. films, both the latest releases of Szeged, Miskolc and Győr Veszprémi Est magazine Debrecen. The season Tel (30) 200 88 88. ∑ palace.hu
Veszprém, likewise, is known as a and repertory films from a are among the liveliest, with a runs August–Decem ber SunCity
musical city, and small-scale cham- time of cinematic glory, when wide range of pubs, clubs and Children and March–June. Tickets can be Fürdő utca 35, Balatonfüred.
ber concerts in the Castle District Miklós Jancsó and István Szabó nightclubs. Győr’s Vigadó Pince Hungarians of all ages love purchased from stadium ticket Tel (70) 361 93 78, or (70) 263 06
courtyard are a highlight of all received international awards Pub has live bands most nights. puppets, and most cities offices on the day. Handball is 49. ∑ suncity-balaton.hu
summer visits here. For details as directors. Veszprém, too, gets lively in the in the country have excellent also popular, and both the male Vigadó Pince Pub
evenings, with the Expresszó puppet theatres. The best are and female teams are world­class. Kisfaludy utca 2, Győr.
Club living up to its name as those at Szeged and Kecskemét, Water polo, rowing, basketball, Tel (30) 296 29 64.
buzziest venue. The Mythos which also has a toy museum gymnastics tournaments and
Music Club has either live and work shop that is very international swimming compe­ Casinos
acts or top international DJs at popular with children. Kids titions also attract crowds. Casino Sopron
weekends. During the summer of all ages enjoy narrow­gauge For details of the Hungarian Lackner K. utca 33/A, Sopron.
almost all of Lake Balaton’s and steam rail ways Formula 1 Grand Prix, see p35. Tel (99) 51 23 50.
resorts thump to the universal such as those at Bugac,
beat of Europop. Siófok espe- Balaton, Nyíregyháza Las Vegas Casino
cially can be loud and really and Kecskemét. Széchenyi István tér 2, Budapest.
quite boisterous of an evening. Horse riding is another Tel (1) 266 20 81.
The Palace Dance Club is one great way of enter­ Children
of the country’s largest, though taining children,
it is a 15-minute walk out of and you are never Aquaticum Debrecen
the town centre. A little more far from an equestrian Nagyerdei park 1, Debrecen.
sophisti cated is the north centre in Hungary Tel (52) 51 41 00.
Balaton resort of Balatonfüred, (see p292). Swimming AquaCity Zalaegerszeg
where SunCity, a cultural and pools, too, are found Fürdő sétány 2, Zala eger szeg.
party venue in Greek-style buil- across the country, Tel (92) 59 91 01.
dings, and Cocomo Café on although children
A performance at the Miskolc Opera Festival, held each year in June the beach attract the crowds. often prefer modern Flatwater Rowing Championship in Szeged




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ENTER T AINMENT IN HUNGAR Y  289


Casinos were once ubiquitous DIRECTORY
in Hungary, but gaming laws
enacted in 2012 forced most Theatres & Opera
of them to close; less than ten Houses
casinos are now licensed in the Miskolc Grand National
whole of the country. The Theatre (Miskolci Nemzeti
same laws removed the slot Színház)
machines once found in almost Déryné utca 1, Miskolc.
every Hungarian café and Tel (46) 51 67 35. ∑ mnsz.eu
bar. While the dress code at Pécs National Theatre (Pécsi
the casinos still in business Nemzeti Színház)
has largely been relaxed, Színház tér 1, Pécs.
visitors must purchase a token Tel (72) 51 26 60. ∑ pnsz.hu
“membership” in order to enter,
so take some photo ID. Festivals
Pony riding in Budapest, one of many Debrecen Jazz Days
Information ∑ iranydebrecen.hu
activities for children
The best listings magazines in Miskolc Opera Festival
Hungary are published by Pesti aqua parks such as those in ∑ operafesztival.hu
Est, the famous Budapest weekly. Debre cen and Zalaegerszeg Sopron Early Music Days
Though published almost entirely (see p290). ∑ filharmonia.hu
in Hungarian, the colourful ads
should be decipherable to most Spectator Sports Pubs, Clubs & Discos
people. As it is published weekly
in 22 Hungarian cities visitors Football (soccer) is the most Cocomo Café
can find local editions of Est popular spectator sport in Zákonyi Ferenc sétány 4
distributed for free in Hun gary. The domestic (Silver Court), Balatonfüred.
many bars, restaurants, league is highly com­ Tel (70) 330 33 78.
hotels and shops. peti tive, and crowds Expresszó Club
Hotel reception desks can be large. The Brusznyai Árpád utca 2, Veszprém.
and TourInform offices country’s best sides Tel (20) 938 04 11.
will also usually be include Újpest, Hon véd Mythos Music Club
happy to help visitors and Ferenc város of Szabadság tér 1, Veszprém.
with information Budapest; Video ton
about concerts Székes fehérvár; Palace Dance Club
and nightlife. Zala eger szeg; and Vécsey Károly utca 20, Siófok.
Veszprémi Est magazine Debrecen. The season Tel (30) 200 88 88. ∑ palace.hu
runs August–Decem ber SunCity
Children
and March–June. Tickets can be Fürdő utca 35, Balatonfüred.
Hungarians of all ages love purchased from stadium ticket Tel (70) 361 93 78, or (70) 263 06
puppets, and most cities offices on the day. Handball is 49. ∑ suncity-balaton.hu
in the country have excellent also popular, and both the male Vigadó Pince Pub
puppet theatres. The best are and female teams are world­class. Kisfaludy utca 2, Győr.
those at Szeged and Kecskemét, Water polo, rowing, basketball, Tel (30) 296 29 64.
which also has a toy museum gymnastics tournaments and
and work shop that is very international swimming compe­ Casinos
popular with children. Kids titions also attract crowds. Casino Sopron
of all ages enjoy narrow­gauge For details of the Hungarian Lackner K. utca 33/A, Sopron.
and steam rail ways Formula 1 Grand Prix, see p35. Tel (99) 51 23 50.
such as those at Bugac,
Balaton, Nyíregyháza Las Vegas Casino
and Kecskemét. Széchenyi István tér 2, Budapest.
Horse riding is another Tel (1) 266 20 81.
great way of enter­ Children
taining children,
and you are never Aquaticum Debrecen
far from an equestrian Nagyerdei park 1, Debrecen.
centre in Hungary Tel (52) 51 41 00.
(see p292). Swimming AquaCity Zalaegerszeg
pools, too, are found Fürdő sétány 2, Zala eger szeg.
across the country, Tel (92) 59 91 01.
although children
often prefer modern Flatwater Rowing Championship in Szeged




288-289_EW_Hungary.indd 289 18/09/17 3:41 pm

290  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS SPOR T S AND A C TIVITIES IN HUNGAR Y  291

SPORTS AND ACTIVITIES Cycling
IN HUNGARY Cycling became popular in
Hungary post­Communist
times as in that era roads were
Hungarians adore the great outdoors, and visitors should take the opportunity to join never really good enough to
spend a great deal of their leisure time in. On the Great Plain, horses remain an make cycling attractive. Today,
however, pedal power is one
finding new ways of enjoying nature, both important part of everyday life, and there are of the best ways to explore
in winter and summer. Most Hungarians, at a number of equestrian centres in and around the Hungarian countryside.
some stage, partake in the national ritual that the region’s larger towns. They offer riding In Budapest, the city council
is bathing, and since virtually all towns and courses at all levels, as well as putting on has invested heavily in creating
cities feature at least one thermal baths displays of Hungarian horsemanship. a city­wide cycle path network.
It extends to over 200 km
(124 miles). Nationwide there
in a number of excuse at all to strip off and are more than 2,000 km
languages, “Spas and head for a steam bath, even (1,243 miles) of cycle paths,
Wellness Pack ages” in the outdoors in the middle Boats in the marina at Balatonföldvár, Lake Balaton though not all of these are
Tourist Information Office sign and “On Horseback”, of winter. Old men playing Water Sports paved. Two EuroVelo routes
can be downloaded for chess in the outdoor pool at easier, flat trails on the Great Plain traverse Hungary, one
General Information
free from Tourinform’s excellent Budapest’s Széchenyi baths, Lake Balaton is a major water and along parts of the Danube. following the eastern bank
Tourinform offices are an website (www.tourinform.hu). steam rising from the water sports centre. Among the In all, Hungary has over 11,000 of the Danube, one hugging
excel lent source of informa tion and snow on all sides, is one activities available here are km (6,835 miles) of trails, marked the eastern bank of the River
on sports and outdoor of Hungary’s defining sights. water­skiing, windsurfing, with a coloured stripe according Tisza. In Northern Trans­
activities in Hungary. Most Swimming Pools and With the exception of the rowing, canoeing and water to the length of the danubia, some of
Thermal Baths
stock special publications football team of the 1950s, polo, the last being a popular trail (blue for a long­ Europe’s best cycle
out lining activities in the Most Hungarians view public all of Hungary’s most successful spectator sport. Ever since distance trail, yellow for routes are around
surrounding area, and will bathing as a birthright, and and best­known athletes have the Siófok Balaton Company a short, local trail). All Lake Fertő. There are
provide addresses, telephone with more than 300 operating been swimmers, including opened its doors to paying the National Parks have superb routes in the
numbers and directions to thermal bath complexes in Alfréd Hajós, who won the customers in 1893, however, well signposted trails. Northern Highlands.
nearby thermal bath com­ the country, most of which first ever Olympic swimming Hungary’s favourite water sport One of the best trails Visitors can hire
plexes, swimming pools have larger swimming pools gold medal in 1896, and after has been sailing. In fair weather for good ama teur bikes from a number
and equestrian centres. attached, it is not difficult to whom a swimming pool on Lake Balaton can look like a walkers is the Balaton­ of rental centres in
Two helpful brochures see why. Hungarians need no Margaret Island, Budapest, floating forest of sailing boats. felvidék trail in the Siófok and most of
has since been named. Siófok is the main sailing southern Bakony Hills. the resorts on Lake
It is no great surprise, then, resort, although there are also The 94­km (58­mile) Road sign aimed Balaton – where
that Hungary has made an yachting centres at Szigliget, blue trail starts at at walkers the sport is especially
industry out of its thermal Balaton földvár, Badacsony and Pétfürdő station in popular – as well as at
baths. Visitors have for centuries Balatonlelle. All offer sailing Várpalota, and goes through Bikebase in the capital. Cyclists
flocked to this country lessons to novices, and will hire the most spectacular part of the may take their bikes on trains
from all over Europe to take out boats of various sizes to Balaton­felvidék before ending within Hungary for a fee
to the waters, and to swim the more experienced. Visitors at the railway station in Badacsony. (around 25 per cent of the
in its outdoor pools. The mod­ wishing to lease a boat require Tourinform have an excellent ticket price), but only on
ern aquaparks, including the an International Sailing Licence, free brochure on hiking in specially desig nated trains
super Aquaticum complex at or need to be able to explain Hungary, giving details of identified by the bicycle icon
Debrecen, which has slides, (in best pidgin Hungarian) that routes and accommodation. on the timetable.
water jets, Jacuzzis and artificial they know what they are doing.
waves, make sure that children Usually, a driving licence, pass­
catch the swimming bug early. port or credit card need to be
In summer, Lake Balaton is deposited with the boatyard. For
a popular swimming venue, information contact the Balaton
and while most Balaton resorts Regional Tourist Office.
do not restrict water access To learn how to water­ski,
to swimmers, some parts visitors are advised to head for
of the lake are reserved for Siófok or Balatonfüred or contact
water sports. The water quality the Hungarian Water Ski and
in Hungary is usually good. Wakeboard Association.
People even occasionally
swim in the Danube, especially
around the Danube Bend Hiking
towns of Esztergom In summer trains heading for
and Szentendre. the hills are packed with hikers.
For more information on The northeast of the country is
Hungary’s thermal bath home to some superb, challeng­
Slides at the Aquaticum thermal baths complex in Debrecen complexes see pp26–7. ing hiking trails, and there are Cyclists pausing in front of the Millennium Monument, Városliget, Budapest




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SPOR T S AND A C TIVITIES IN HUNGAR Y  291

Cycling
Cycling became popular in
Hungary post­Communist
times as in that era roads were
never really good enough to
make cycling attractive. Today,
however, pedal power is one
of the best ways to explore
the Hungarian countryside.
In Budapest, the city council
has invested heavily in creating
a city­wide cycle path network.
It extends to over 200 km
(124 miles). Nationwide there
are more than 2,000 km
(1,243 miles) of cycle paths,
Boats in the marina at Balatonföldvár, Lake Balaton though not all of these are
paved. Two EuroVelo routes
Water Sports easier, flat trails on the Great Plain traverse Hungary, one
Lake Balaton is a major water and along parts of the Danube. following the eastern bank
sports centre. Among the In all, Hungary has over 11,000 of the Danube, one hugging
activities available here are km (6,835 miles) of trails, marked the eastern bank of the River
water­skiing, windsurfing, with a coloured stripe according Tisza. In Northern Trans­
rowing, canoeing and water to the length of the danubia, some of
polo, the last being a popular trail (blue for a long­ Europe’s best cycle
spectator sport. Ever since distance trail, yellow for routes are around
the Siófok Balaton Company a short, local trail). All Lake Fertő. There are
opened its doors to paying the National Parks have superb routes in the
customers in 1893, however, well signposted trails. Northern Highlands.
Hungary’s favourite water sport One of the best trails Visitors can hire
has been sailing. In fair weather for good ama teur bikes from a number
Lake Balaton can look like a walkers is the Balaton­ of rental centres in
floating forest of sailing boats. felvidék trail in the Siófok and most of
Siófok is the main sailing southern Bakony Hills. the resorts on Lake
resort, although there are also The 94­km (58­mile) Road sign aimed Balaton – where
yachting centres at Szigliget, blue trail starts at at walkers the sport is especially
Balaton földvár, Badacsony and Pétfürdő station in popular – as well as at
Balatonlelle. All offer sailing Várpalota, and goes through Bikebase in the capital. Cyclists
lessons to novices, and will hire the most spectacular part of the may take their bikes on trains
out boats of various sizes to Balaton­felvidék before ending within Hungary for a fee
the more experienced. Visitors at the railway station in Badacsony. (around 25 per cent of the
wishing to lease a boat require Tourinform have an excellent ticket price), but only on
an International Sailing Licence, free brochure on hiking in specially desig nated trains
or need to be able to explain Hungary, giving details of identified by the bicycle icon
(in best pidgin Hungarian) that routes and accommodation. on the timetable.
they know what they are doing.
Usually, a driving licence, pass­
port or credit card need to be
deposited with the boatyard. For
information contact the Balaton
Regional Tourist Office.
To learn how to water­ski,
visitors are advised to head for
Siófok or Balatonfüred or contact
the Hungarian Water Ski and
Wakeboard Association.

Hiking
In summer trains heading for
the hills are packed with hikers.
The northeast of the country is
home to some superb, challeng­
ing hiking trails, and there are Cyclists pausing in front of the Millennium Monument, Városliget, Budapest




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292  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS SPOR T S AND A C TIVITIES IN HUNGAR Y  293


abound. The Hungarian of water in the country, more or the only course in Hungary to
Equestrian Tourism less at any time of year, but they have hosted an international
Association (MLTKSZ) do require a Hungarian National golf tour event.
rates all equine centres Fishing Licence to do so; this is Visitors can find out more
using a five-horseshoe available from the National about golfing in Hungary
system, similar to the Federation of Hungarian at the excellent website
star ratings awarded Anglers (MOHOSZ). The www.golfhungary.hu.
to hotels. As a rule, the licence, valid for up to a year,
wider the range of costs around 2,000 forints (€6) DIRECTORY
activities that are on and also requires the angler to
offer at an equestrian pass a test. Fishing enthusiasts Water Sports
centre, the more horse- may also need to buy a local Balaton Regional
shoes it will have in licence, depending on the Tourist Office
its rating. Many riding stretch of water where they Blaha Lujza utca 2, Balatonfüred.
Steeplechase, a popular equestrian pursuit centres also offer over- plan to fish. Local licences Skating at the ice rink in Varosliget, Budapest Tel (87) 34 28 01.
night accom modation. can usually be bought at the
Horse Riding All offer gentle pony-trekking entrances to major fishing areas. National Chamber of Hunters arriving in Budapest at 5:30pm. Hungarian Water
Hungary and the Hungarians trails for children or beginners, Local tourist offices will have a (OMVK), offers advice on all Drivers should take the M3 Ski and Wakeboard
Association
are invariably linked to horses as well as riding lessons for all list of sales points. hunting matters. motorway from Budapest to 1033 Hajógyári Sziget 108,
and horsemanship, and riding abilities. Some riding centres Gyöngyös, then the H24 passing Budapest. Tel (1) 487 20 41.
is still a popular activity with offer special children’s riding through Mátrafüred, Mátraháza,
people of all backgrounds. camps in summer. Winter Sports Galya tető and Mátraszentlászló. Horse Riding
Basically, if an activity or sport The MLTKSZ is helpful and Hungarians love skiing, but they Although the highest point of
involves horses, you will almost provides information about all the are more likely to ski in Austrian the resort is just 834 m (2,736 ft), Hungarian Equestrian
certainly be able to find it equestrian centres it rates. It also or Slovakian resorts, many of there is usually enough snow Tourism Association
somewhere in Hungary. From has details of shows, races, riding which are no more than a for skiing from November to April. (MLTKSZ)
simple pony-trekking rides to holidays and travelling with Gypsy couple of hours’ drive away. Ice-skating is also popular, Aranyhal utca 4, Budapest.
carriage driving and show- caravans, as well as riding facilities Hungary does have one small and the best place to do this is Tel (1) 215 35 60.
jumping, it is all on offer here. for the disabled. Local tourist downhill ski resort of its own, at the superb outdoor skating Fishing and Hunting
Even polo has made a come- centres also have brochures of however, the Mátraszentistván rink in Városliget in Budapest
back. The sport was popular riding centres in their area. Sípark in the Mátra Mountains. (see pp110–11). Hungarian National
here before World War II – Waiting for river fish to bite in the Danube, It offers pleasant but rather Chamber of Hunters
Hungary had 76 polo clubs near Esztergom tame skiing. In all there are five (OMVK)
competing in 19 leagues in Fishing Hunting ski lifts giving access to seven Golf Medve utca 34–40, Budapest.
1936 – but the Communists Almost half a million Hun garians short ski runs, none of which is A sport gaining in popularity Tel (1) 355 61 80. ∑ omvk.hu
condemned the activity as fish at one time or another during Hungary is a nation of hunters more than 1 km (0.5 mile) in in the country, Hungary has National Federation of
bourgeois. There are now two the year; indeed, after swimming, but hunting is now strictly length. There is, however, a seven full 18-hole golf courses, Hungarian Anglers
polo clubs in Hungary, and fishing is the nation’s favourite controlled. After years of free- good ski school, and children virtually all located in or around (MOHOSZ)
the Hungarian Open Champion- participation sport. Lakes Tisza, for-all shooting, great emphasis and beginners especially will the capital. Golfing remains an Korompai utca 17, Budapest.
ship held each May at the La Balaton and Velence are superb is now placed on conservation love the quiet, gentle slopes expensive and exclusive sport in Tel (1) 248 25 90.
Estancia Polo Club at Etyek, and popular fishing grounds, and sustain ability. Depending here. Floodlit skiing is possible Hungary, however, and green ∑ mohosz.hu
outside Budapest, attracts while a stretch of the Danube on the time of year, the hunter at night. fees at most courses are high:
professional players from as far near Ráckeve is also renowned can shoot stags, fallow deer, Mátraszentistván is 96 km around 17,500 forints (€55) at Winter Sports
away as Brazil and Argentina. for the richness of species and roebuck, wild boar, fox, rabbit (60 miles) away from Buda pest, week ends, slightly less during Hungarian Ski Association
There are more than 1,000 quality of fish. Anglers are able and pheasant. The biggest and can be reached by a daily bus the week. The best course in the (MSSZ)
riding centres in the country, to land carp, pike, pike-perch, prize is a stag, but the season service departing from Stadion country is at the Greenfield 1137 Budapest, Radnóti Miklós
and just as there seems to be bream, razor fish and even eels is short – September and Buszpályaudvar at 8:15am and Hotel Golf and Spa, close utca 29, fsz 1, Budapest.
a thermal spa in every town in in Hungarian waters. Anglers October – and interested arriving at the resort at 10:35am. to Bükfürdő, about 50 km Tel (30) 982 52 52.
Hungary, riding centres also can fish in just about any stretch visitors will need to join an The return bus leaves at 3pm, (31 miles) from Buda pest. It is Mátraszentistván Sípark
organized shoot. Tel (37) 37 66 85.
Anyone wishing to join a
hunt in Hungary must hold a Golf
valid hunting licence, and there
are strict regulations on the Greenfield Hotel Golf
import of firearms for hunting and Spa
purposes. Trophy fees are Golf utca 4, Bükfürdő.
charged for almost all game; Tel (94) 80 16 00.
these are calculated according ∑ greenfieldhotel.net
to the size of the bagged Hungarian Golf Federation
catch. There are a number of (MGSZ)
companies who organize Istvánmezei út 1–3, Budapest.
hunting holidays and tours, Tel (1) 460 68 59.
and who will take care of all ∑ hungolf.hu
Fishing in Lake Balaton, a well-liked sport among locals and visitors the paperwork. The Hungarian Teeing off at the Greenfield Hotel Golf and Spa, Bükfürdő




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SPOR T S AND A C TIVITIES IN HUNGAR Y  293


the only course in Hungary to
have hosted an international
golf tour event.
Visitors can find out more
about golfing in Hungary
at the excellent website
www.golfhungary.hu.
DIRECTORY
Water Sports
Balaton Regional
Tourist Office
Blaha Lujza utca 2, Balatonfüred.
Skating at the ice rink in Varosliget, Budapest Tel (87) 34 28 01.
National Chamber of Hunters arriving in Budapest at 5:30pm. Hungarian Water
(OMVK), offers advice on all Drivers should take the M3 Ski and Wakeboard
Association
hunting matters. motorway from Budapest to 1033 Hajógyári Sziget 108,
Gyöngyös, then the H24 passing Budapest. Tel (1) 487 20 41.
through Mátrafüred, Mátraháza,
Winter Sports
Galya tető and Mátraszentlászló. Horse Riding
Hungarians love skiing, but they Although the highest point of
are more likely to ski in Austrian the resort is just 834 m (2,736 ft), Hungarian Equestrian
or Slovakian resorts, many of there is usually enough snow Tourism Association
which are no more than a for skiing from November to April. (MLTKSZ)
couple of hours’ drive away. Ice-skating is also popular, Aranyhal utca 4, Budapest.
Hungary does have one small and the best place to do this is Tel (1) 215 35 60.
downhill ski resort of its own, at the superb outdoor skating Fishing and Hunting
however, the Mátraszentistván rink in Városliget in Budapest
Sípark in the Mátra Mountains. (see pp110–11). Hungarian National
It offers pleasant but rather Chamber of Hunters
tame skiing. In all there are five (OMVK)
ski lifts giving access to seven Golf Medve utca 34–40, Budapest.
short ski runs, none of which is A sport gaining in popularity Tel (1) 355 61 80. ∑ omvk.hu
more than 1 km (0.5 mile) in in the country, Hungary has National Federation of
length. There is, however, a seven full 18-hole golf courses, Hungarian Anglers
good ski school, and children virtually all located in or around (MOHOSZ)
and beginners especially will the capital. Golfing remains an Korompai utca 17, Budapest.
love the quiet, gentle slopes expensive and exclusive sport in Tel (1) 248 25 90.
here. Floodlit skiing is possible Hungary, however, and green ∑ mohosz.hu
at night. fees at most courses are high:
Mátraszentistván is 96 km around 17,500 forints (€55) at Winter Sports
(60 miles) away from Buda pest, week ends, slightly less during Hungarian Ski Association
and can be reached by a daily bus the week. The best course in the (MSSZ)
service departing from Stadion country is at the Greenfield 1137 Budapest, Radnóti Miklós
Buszpályaudvar at 8:15am and Hotel Golf and Spa, close utca 29, fsz 1, Budapest.
arriving at the resort at 10:35am. to Bükfürdő, about 50 km Tel (30) 982 52 52.
The return bus leaves at 3pm, (31 miles) from Buda pest. It is
Mátraszentistván Sípark
Tel (37) 37 66 85.
Golf
Greenfield Hotel Golf
and Spa
Golf utca 4, Bükfürdő.
Tel (94) 80 16 00.
∑ greenfieldhotel.net
Hungarian Golf Federation
(MGSZ)
Istvánmezei út 1–3, Budapest.
Tel (1) 460 68 59.
∑ hungolf.hu
Teeing off at the Greenfield Hotel Golf and Spa, Bükfürdő




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Practical Information 296–303

Travel Information 304–311





















































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Practical Information 296–303

Travel Information 304–311





















































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PRACTICAL INFORMATION wheelchair-accessible Hungarian Time
at certain stations. Hungary adheres to Central
Hungary is not a large country, but it is one of the best and most efficient Most hotels can accom- Euro pean Time in keeping with
highly centralized, and almost all roads information services in Europe. Most modate disabled vis- most of mainland Europe – it is
and railways lead to Buda pest. Any Hungarian towns have modern facilities tors, often in specially 2 hours ahead of Green wich
visit beyond the capital is well worth for the traveller, including good banking adapted rooms. As a Mean Time (GMT) in summer
rule of thumb, the bet-
and 1 hour ahead in winter.
organizing in advance. Most visitors also services and emergency medical care, and ter the hotel, the more
find the Hungarian language hard to learn, public telephone and transport systems likely disabled visitors
remember and pronounce, and there are good. Customs and border controls are to find rooms suita- Hungarian Addresses
and Street Names
is little or no English spoken outside now apply mainly to travellers from ble for them.
the cities. Fortunately, Tourinform, the countries outside the EU. For EU and EEA For advice and help, Most famous Hungarians have
squares (tér), streets (utca) and
contact the National
Hungarian National Tourist Office, is citizens the entry procedure is a formality.
Staircase especially adapted for disabled use Federation of Disabled avenues (út) named after them
Persons’ Associations. in every large city and town,
as well as and a few other Opening times for specific note that tobacco goods Their excel lent website which it is easy to confuse.
countries, are free to enter venues are given under their can only be purchased at lists accessible hotels, Many first-time visitors to
Hungary as tourists with out individual entries. Typically, shops signposted “Nemzeti restaurants, museums and Buda pest also confuse Váci utca
requiring a visa. Almost museums open from 10am to Dohánybolt”, with their opaque other public buildings, as (the pede strian street in the city
everybody else needs a visa, 6pm from April until Oct ober, windows. Entrance is restricted well as transport links. centre) with Váci út (the wide
which must be obtained from and a couple of hours less in to people aged over 18. avenue north of the city centre).
a Hungarian Consulate out side winter, from November to Hungarians are usually very Public Toilets Hungarian addresses are
Hungary before travel. Visitors March. Most museums are friendly towards visitors. They written with the postcode first,
should keep their passports (or closed on Mondays. Almost all queue patiently, except when Unfortunately, when it comes followed by the street name
at least a copy) on them at all charge an entrance fee, but getting on and off any form of to the provision of decent pub lic and building number. In
times. A valid passport needs many offer discounts. public transport. The only toilets, Hungary remains in the Budapest the district code is
to be shown when registering Most small shops open from stumbling block is the language dark ages. Public conveniences usually added to the city name,
at a hotel. 9am to 7pm; some stay open barrier – many older Hungarians are rare, and those that one using Roman numerals. Floors are
Visitors returning to EU until 9pm or 10pm, especially speak no Western languages. does come across can be very numbered in accordance with
countries may export unlimit- in modern shopping centres. Casual clothing is acceptable unappealing. Most are free; the UK usage.
ed quantities of alcohol and Shops usually open all day on everywhere, even in the modern, cubicle-style toilets
One of many tourist information offices, tobacco, provided these are for Saturdays, and many open restaurants of Budapest’s most now common in parks and DIRECTORY
run by Tourinform personal use. However, note their doors on Sundays too. expensive hotels. At business public squares are sometimes
that some EU countries have Markets operate seven days a meetings, too, suits and ties coin-operated. Cafés and res- Tourist Information
Tourist Information imposed their own limits on week from early morning to are much less common than taurants usually allow toilet
Hungary operates tourist imports from countries such as around 3pm. Large supermar- elsewhere in Europe. But at access only to customers; at Tourinform
1052 Deák tér (Sütő utca 2),
offices abroad in some 20 Hungary where cigarettes and kets also open seven days a the theatre or classical music service stations and fast-food Budapest. Tel (1) 438 80 80.
countries, all run by Tour- alcohol are cheap. Though week, until at least 8pm. Small concerts you are expected to outlets, there may be a charge ∑ tourinform.hu
inform. Their websites (see these unilateral limits are illegal shops may open on public holi- dress up, black tie if possible. if you do not order anything ∑ gotohungary.com
Directory), also have a wide under EU law, days. Many of the If invited to the home of a from the menu. Most railway
variety of useful information, they are strictly small kiosks sell- Hungarian, ensure you bring stations have toilets, but they Travel Safety Advice
brochures and maps, all of enforced. The UK, ing bus tickets, something: flowers or a bottle can be unhygienic. Australia
which can be downloaded for example, limits food and alcohol of good whisky are favourites. Apart from the generally Department of Foreign
for free in various formats. cigarette imports are open 24 In hospitals, it is common understood picture symbols, Affairs and Trade
Holiday brochures can also from Hungary to hours a day. practice to tip doctors, nurses the toilets are signed in ∑ smartraveller.gov.au
be sent by post, free of just 800. Check Restaurants and domestic staff to make Hungarian: Hölgyek (ladies)
charge. Once in Hungary, before leaving usually open things happen just that little and Urak (gentlemen) or Nők UK
travellers can make use of home. Signs indicating local amenities at 11:30am and bit faster. (women) and Férfiak (men). Foreign and Commonwealth
the services of more than and attractions rarely close in Office ∑ www.gov.uk/foreign-
150 Tourinform offices Travel Safety Advice the afternoon; Disabled Travellers Electrical and Gas travel-advice
nation wide. In most of these Hungarians like to lunch early, US
offices young, friendly and Visitors can get up-to-date and at leisure. Hungary has made giant strides Appliances US Department of State
multi lingual staff will do travel safety information from towards improving life for its The Hungarian electricity ∑ travel.state.gov
everything to make visitors the Foreign and Commonwealth Etiquette dis abled citizens and visitors, supply is 230 V; the plugs are
feel welcome in their country. Office in the UK, the State a major plus point of the the standard continental Europe Information for
Department in the US and the Bans on smoking in public country’s entry into the EU in type, with two round pins. Disabled Visitors
Department of Foreign Affairs places are increasingly 2004. That said, it can be tough Sockets are generally earthed, National Federation of
Passports and Customs
and Trade in Australia. com mon. All bars, cafés for all but the very fittest to get and the plugs are most com- Disabled Persons’
Citizens of the European Union and restaurants are non- on and off some forms of public monly of the flat type. Adaptors Associations (MEOSZ)
(EU), the European Economic Opening Hours smoking, and all museums, transport: trains and trams are are widely available. San Marco utca 76, Budapest.
Area (EEA), countries that are public transport, stations, especially trouble some. On Gas cookers have a bimetallic Tel (1) 388 23 87 or (1) 250 90 13
signatories of the Schengen Museums and galleries are airports and other public the Budapest Metro, the M4 safety device – after lighting, the (international).
agreement, the USA, Canada, open all year round, though buildings are also entirely line is fully accessible by lifts, knob should be held down until ∑ meosz.hu
Australia and New Zealand, there are some exceptions. non-smoking. Smokers should while the older lines are only the burner warms up.
A spectacular view of the Chain Bridge with Budapest’s funicular railway in the foreground
296-297_EW_Hungary.indd 296 18/09/17 3:44 pm 296-297_EW_Hungary.indd 297 18/09/17 3:44 pm

PR A C TIC AL INFORM A TION  297

Hungarian Time
wheelchair-accessible
at certain stations. Hungary adheres to Central
Most hotels can accom- Euro pean Time in keeping with
modate disabled vis- most of mainland Europe – it is
tors, often in specially 2 hours ahead of Green wich
adapted rooms. As a Mean Time (GMT) in summer
rule of thumb, the bet- and 1 hour ahead in winter.
ter the hotel, the more
likely disabled visitors
are to find rooms suita- Hungarian Addresses
and Street Names
ble for them.
For advice and help, Most famous Hungarians have
contact the National squares (tér), streets (utca) and
Staircase especially adapted for disabled use Federation of Disabled avenues (út) named after them
Persons’ Associations. in every large city and town,
note that tobacco goods Their excel lent website which it is easy to confuse.
can only be purchased at lists accessible hotels, Many first-time visitors to
shops signposted “Nemzeti restaurants, museums and Buda pest also confuse Váci utca
Dohánybolt”, with their opaque other public buildings, as (the pede strian street in the city
windows. Entrance is restricted well as transport links. centre) with Váci út (the wide
to people aged over 18. avenue north of the city centre).
Hungarians are usually very Public Toilets Hungarian addresses are
friendly towards visitors. They written with the postcode first,
queue patiently, except when Unfortunately, when it comes followed by the street name
getting on and off any form of to the provision of decent pub lic and building number. In
public transport. The only toilets, Hungary remains in the Budapest the district code is
stumbling block is the language dark ages. Public conveniences usually added to the city name,
barrier – many older Hungarians are rare, and those that one using Roman numerals. Floors are
speak no Western languages. does come across can be very numbered in accordance with
Casual clothing is acceptable unappealing. Most are free; the UK usage.
everywhere, even in the modern, cubicle-style toilets
restaurants of Budapest’s most now common in parks and DIRECTORY
expensive hotels. At business public squares are sometimes
meetings, too, suits and ties coin-operated. Cafés and res- Tourist Information
are much less common than taurants usually allow toilet Tourinform
elsewhere in Europe. But at access only to customers; at 1052 Deák tér (Sütő utca 2),
the theatre or classical music service stations and fast-food Budapest. Tel (1) 438 80 80.
concerts you are expected to outlets, there may be a charge ∑ tourinform.hu
dress up, black tie if possible. if you do not order anything ∑ gotohungary.com
If invited to the home of a from the menu. Most railway
Hungarian, ensure you bring stations have toilets, but they Travel Safety Advice
something: flowers or a bottle can be unhygienic. Australia
of good whisky are favourites. Apart from the generally Department of Foreign
In hospitals, it is common understood picture symbols, Affairs and Trade
practice to tip doctors, nurses the toilets are signed in ∑ smartraveller.gov.au
and domestic staff to make Hungarian: Hölgyek (ladies)
things happen just that little and Urak (gentlemen) or Nők UK
bit faster. (women) and Férfiak (men). Foreign and Commonwealth
Office ∑ www.gov.uk/foreign-
travel-advice
Disabled Travellers Electrical and Gas US
Appliances
Hungary has made giant strides US Department of State
towards improving life for its The Hungarian electricity ∑ travel.state.gov
dis abled citizens and visitors, supply is 230 V; the plugs are
a major plus point of the the standard continental Europe Information for
country’s entry into the EU in type, with two round pins. Disabled Visitors
2004. That said, it can be tough Sockets are generally earthed, National Federation of
for all but the very fittest to get and the plugs are most com- Disabled Persons’
on and off some forms of public monly of the flat type. Adaptors Associations (MEOSZ)
transport: trains and trams are are widely available. San Marco utca 76, Budapest.
especially trouble some. On Gas cookers have a bimetallic Tel (1) 388 23 87 or (1) 250 90 13
the Budapest Metro, the M4 safety device – after lighting, the (international).
line is fully accessible by lifts, knob should be held down until ∑ meosz.hu
while the older lines are only the burner warms up.




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298  SUR VIV AL GUIDE PR A C TIC AL INFORM A TION  299

Safety and Health prostitutes (of which there are
many in and around railway
Hungary has a relatively low crime rate, although stations at night) should be
pick-pocketing can be a problem on public transport and avoided, as they are often run
in crowded sightseeing areas. The healthcare system is well- by criminals. In general, all of
funded, efficient and most emergency treatment is free for Hungary’s railway stations can be
rather unsafe places at night, as
visitors. Visitors are still advised, however, to take out a good they are popular places for drunks
health insurance policy before they depart. Most towns and petty criminals to hang out.
have modern facilities for the traveller, including good All visitors must take care
emergency medical care. The Hungarian National Tourist not to overstay their welcome –
Office can help with language problems. most tourists are permitted to
stay in the country for up to
90 days without a temporary
Personal Security accepted, and cash machines residence permit. Visitors who
Although Hungary is a relatively (ATMs) are also widely found, extend their stay beyond the
safe place, it is wise to take care. even in the countryside. 90 days and then attempt to
Popular outdoor events attract Hungarian police officers, on foot patrol leave the country may be hit Ornately decorated interior of a pharmacy, Budapest
bag-snatchers and pick pockets. in the streets with a large fine, or prevented
In Budapest and in crowded Personal Safety from leaving. for, as do hospital stays. The Hungary, and there are no
public areas, visitors should The Hungarian word for case your embassy or consulate actual cost incurred by a visitor specific health risks associated
be particularly careful to keep “police” is rendőrség. Hungarian (see Directory) may be able to Emergencies will depend on Hungary’s recip­ with the country. Tap water
an eye on their property, espe- police officers are frequently help out. (Australian visitors rocal agreement with the rele­ is perfectly safe to drink, but
cially hand bags and cameras. seen patrolling the streets on should note that Australia no The emergency telephone vant country. EU citizens are bottled waters are cheap and of
Public transport in Budapest motorbikes, on foot or in cars. longer has an embassy in number for police, fire or entitled to free treatment and high quality. Food hygiene laws
(especially the buses) is notorious They may also be seen on Budapest; the nearest is in ambulance is 112, and all hospital stays, although they are strictly enforced, so food
for the gangs of pickpockets that horseback. Even the smallest Vienna.) Visitors who are operators speak English, French will usually be asked to pay for poisoning is now rare, but it
operate there. village has its own arrested, for whatever and German. There is also an medicines. Keep any receipts for never hurts to be circumspect
Visitors should make sure they police station. In the reason, should try English­language Tourist treatments or prescriptions, and when deciding to eat at smaller
lock valuables and per sonal event of any loss or to contact their Information Service, run by ask for a signed, stamped doc­ buffets or street food stands.
documents in a hotel safe. It is theft of property, embassy and con- Tourinform, which can provide tor’s report if an insurance claim Mosquitoes can be a problem
equally important not to leave a report should be sular representative inform ation on English­ is to be made. Visitors should in high summer, especially
valuables in a car. Ideally, a made immediately immediately. speaking police stations, and also note that tipping doctors around Lake Tisza.
hotel’s car parking facilities to the police, as a Random ID checks give general advice if visitors are and nurses is still widespread (a
should be used (parking space number will be are rare, but visitors lost or need other kinds of relic of the Communist system). DIRECTORY
may be available at a small required for any insur- Fire department sign and locals alike are assistance. The telephone The Hungarian word for
supple ment – it is worth it). ance claim. This, however, required to have some number is (1) 438 80 80; it “pharmacy” or “chemist” is Emergencies
There is no need to carry is easier said than done, as form of identification with them operates around the patika, although English-Language
large amounts of cash around, some police stations may not at all times. clock. Visitors who the German word Emergency Hotline
because most credit and have anyone around who speaks CCTV is now common in believe they have Apotheke is also widely (Tourinform)
debit cards are widely the relevant language. In this Hungary’s cities and towns, been over charged in use. Hungary’s Tel (1) 438 80 80.
and has been installed on the by a restaurant, or a pharmacies are strictly
Budapest Metro, on some taxi driver, should report regulated and by law General Emergencies
buses, in department stores the incident to the Sign for a pharmacy have to be owned by Tel 112.
and in shopping centres. police. Officers can be their pharmacists. There
Hungary also has one of the approached in the street or at are there fore no pharmacy chains, Embassies
most modern speed-camera any police station. and finding a 24­hour pharmacy Australian Embassy
systems in Europe, and speed- can be difficult. If the nearest Mattiellistrasse 2–4, Vienna, Austria.
ing, along with other traffic pharmacy is closed, there should Tel +43 (1) 50 67 40.
offences that these cameras Healthcare be a list displayed – either on the
can record, attracts heavy fines, Even during Communist times door or in the window – of all British Embassy
even imprisonment in extreme Hungary was a world leader in local chemists, including those Harmincad utca 6, Budapest.
cases (see also Travelling by Car, medical research and devel op­ who will be open on 24­hour Tel (1) 266 28 88.
Ambulance pp308–9). Drink-driving is strictly ment. Hungarian doctors are emergency duty. In practice, ∑ www.gov.uk
forbidden in Hungary – there superb, though underpaid, and however, the list is often missing. Canadian Embassy
is absolutely no permissible standards in hospitals and even Tourinform or residents of the Ganz utca 12–14, Budapest.
blood alcohol level. Even a first local clinics in small towns and area should be able to help in Tel (1) 392 33 60.
drink-driving offence can lead villages are generally high. such situations. ∑ hungary.gc.ca
to imprisonment. Emergency treatment is in theo­ Most dental treatment is
The possession of all drugs ry free for all, although visitors relatively cheap in Hungary, and, US Embassy
is illegal. Prostitution is illegal, should take out a good health in fact, “dental tourism” from other Szabadság tér 12, Budapest.
Tel (1) 475 44 00.
though tolerated in most big insurance policy before travel­ countries is a growing industry. ∑ hungary.usembassy.gov
cities if practised discreetly. In ling abroad. Any treatment (and Visitors do not need any special
Police car any case, contact with street all medicines) need to be paid vaccinations to travel to



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