THE HIST OR Y OF HUNGAR Y 49
The 1956 Hungarian Revolution
On the morning of 23 October, students and workers unhappy with falling living standards
marched on Radio Hungary in Budapest, in a bid to broadcast a list of demands, which
included the immediate withdrawal of all Soviet troops stationed in Hungary. Actively
supported by sections of the Hungarian army, the revolutionaries attacked the AVH (secret
police) and Soviet soldiers, and the revolt spread nationwide. The Hungarian Communist
Party, fearing total collapse, gave in to a number of demands, and on 27 October invited
Imre Nagy to form a new government. However, on 4 November, thousands more Soviet
troops invaded Hungary and, despite fierce resistance, quickly crushed the revolution.
Revolutionaries with
Captured Soviet Tank
For a short time, the revolution ar ies
unquestionably had the upper hand
and initially Soviet troops stationed in
Hungary offered little resistance. It is
thought that some troops even sided
with the revolution. How ever, when the
Soviet army invaded on 4 November, it The enormous statue of Stalin that stood in
did so to brutal effect, and an estimated Budapest’s City Park (Városliget) was iconoclastically
200,000 Hungarians fled the country torn down on 24 October by revolutionaries and
as refugees. perhaps defines the finest moment of the revolution.
Imre Nagy
Captured by the Russians in World War I, Imre Nagy (1856–1958) fell
in with Russian Communists and emigrated to Russia at the war’s end.
Avoiding Stalin’s purges of the 1920s and 1930s, he became a leading
figure in the Communist international, the Comintern, and in 1944 was
sent to accompany the Red Army as it invaded Hungary. He became
the Hungarian prime minister in 1953 and pursued a reformist agenda
during his two-years in office. Following the uprising, Nagy briefly
returned to office in 1956, but after the Soviet invasion he was betrayed
by one of his closest friends, Romanian Communist Walter Roman.
He was arrested and taken to Snagov Monastery, near Bucharest in
Romania, where he was questioned, tried on camera, and then executed
Bronze statue of
Imre Nagy, Budapest in Budapest in 1958.
044-051_EW_Hungary.indd 49 18/09/17 3:39 pm
50 INTRODUCING HUNGAR Y THE HIST OR Y OF HUNGAR Y 51
The Hungarian road to socialism became standards for many people dropped, and
known – only slightly tongue-in-cheek – unemployment reached almost 16 per cent
as “Goulash Communism”. An increasingly in early 1994. As a result, the Socialists,
relaxed approach to censorship reduced promising a less dramatic transition to a
the number of banned works, and market economy, easily won the election
expanded the number of intellectual in 1994. Since then Hungary has seen its
works that were supported and tolerated. governments yoyo between left and right.
Uniquely among Eastern Europeans, In 1998 Fidesz replaced the Socialists, only
Hungarians were relatively free to travel for the latter to return to power in 2002.
abroad, though only after thorough Proclamation of the Republic of Hungary in 1989 They narrowly won the 2006 general
background checks. Currency regulations election, though Prime Minister Ferenc
further restricted foreign travel to for years organized themselves into political Gyurcsány’s admission of lying during
the privileged. parties. In 1989 they organized mass the campaign provoked weeks of protests.
While the Kádár regime must be given demonstrations throughout the country Gyurcsány refused to resign, however,
some credit for successfully walking a against the HWP’s monopoly on power. Led and the protests eventually died down.
Goulash Communism, with limited collectivization
very thin line between acceptable and by the Hungarian Demo cratic Forum (MDF), A member of both NATO (2001) and the
The Long, Slow Process of Reform unacceptable reform, by the 1980s the the Alli ance of Free Democrats (SZDSZ) and European Union (2004), the 2008 global
In 1957 the Soviets appointed nominally limitations of Goulash Communism the Federation of Young Democrats (Fidesz), financial crisis hit Hungary hard. In 2010,
hardliner János Kádár as head of the HWP, had become far too apparent. Economic the opposition held talks with the govern Fidesz swept to victory with a twothirds
but the experience of the 1956 revolution reforms proved insufficient to ensure ment in March 1989, and, although no majority – the first party to govern outright
had convinced Kádár that a return to decent levels of growth, meaning that agreement was reached until autumn, the since the fall of Communism – and, despite
Rákosi’s methods of the early 1950s would foreign loans were needed in an attempt days of the oneparty state were numbered. introducing deeply unpopular austerity
be counterproductive. He therefore to prop up falling living standards. On 23 October 1989, the country’s name was measures to rescue the ailing economy,
eased restrictions imposed by the Soviets, Reformers in the HWP who believed only changed from Hungarian People’s Republic won emphatically again in 2014.
announcing an amnesty for political further economic reform could preserve its to the Republic of Hungary, a symbolic move
prisoners in 1960 and calling a halt to grip on power removed Kádár from office confirming the replacement of the oneparty
forced collectivization. The economy was in May 1988. Shortly afterwards, opposition system with a multiparty democracy.
reorganized to accommodate a limited groups that had operated in semi-secrecy
amount of private enterprise, and living Hungary Since 1990
standards duly improved. By the end of Hungary’s first postCommunist elections,
the 1960s Hungarians enjoyed easily the held in 1990, were won by the MDF. The
highest standard of living in the Soviet bloc. HWP took part as the Hungarian Socialist
Yet, as the Soviet invasion of reformist Party (MSZP), but fared poorly. Árpád Göncz,
Czecho slovakia in 1968 demonstrated, who had been sentenced to death for his
there was a limit to the economic and part in the 1956 revolution, was elected
political reforms that Moscow would president; he was to serve two fiveyear terms.
tolerate. The HWP’s monopoly on power, The 1990–94 government enacted
and its subservient relationship with the Soviet soldiers participating in a ceremony to mark the tough economic reform, including a
Soviet Union, remained taboo subjects. withdrawal of troops from Hungary massive privatization programme. Living Hungary’s accession to the European Union, 2004
1963 Kádár grants 1968 Kádár announces formal, 1981 Director 2010 Fidesz wins elections with a
freedom to most limited free-market reform, a István Szábo 1988 Kádár is Hungarian 2004 Hungary joins twothirds majority in Parliament.
remaining political policy that becomes known as receives an Oscar forced to national the Euro pean Union 2006 Gyurcsány
prisoners in a wide- “Goulash Communism”. for his film resign by his emblem on 1 May. and the Socialist 2012 A new constitution is
spread amnesty. Mefisto. Party (MSZP) win introduced on 1 Jan 2012.
own party. after 1989 the elections.
1985
1960 1965 1970 1975 1980 1985 1990 1995 2000 2005 2010 2015
1968 Hungary takes 1974 Economist Nyers is 1987 Buda’s entire 1989 In March a series of talks begins 1999 2009 Ferenc 2014 Fidesz
part in the Warsaw forced out of the Politburo. Castle District is placed that will see the HWP renounce its Hungary is 2002 Imre Kertész Gyurcsány resigns wins all
Pact invasion of A return to central planning on UNESCO’s list of monopoly in October. On 23 October, admitted receives a Nobel and Gordon parliamentary,
Czechoslovakia. brings economic disaster, protected historical the Republic of Hungary becomes the to NATO. prize for literature. Bajnai becomes municipal and
János Kádár and Nyers is reinstated. monuments. country’s official name. prime minister. EP elections
(1912–89) Ferenc Gyurcsány with a landslide.
044-051_EW_Hungary.indd 50 18/09/17 3:39 pm 044-051_EW_Hungary.indd 51 18/09/17 3:39 pm
THE HIST OR Y OF HUNGAR Y 51
standards for many people dropped, and
unemployment reached almost 16 per cent
in early 1994. As a result, the Socialists,
promising a less dramatic transition to a
market economy, easily won the election
in 1994. Since then Hungary has seen its
governments yoyo between left and right.
In 1998 Fidesz replaced the Socialists, only
for the latter to return to power in 2002.
Proclamation of the Republic of Hungary in 1989 They narrowly won the 2006 general
election, though Prime Minister Ferenc
for years organized themselves into political Gyurcsány’s admission of lying during
parties. In 1989 they organized mass the campaign provoked weeks of protests.
demonstrations throughout the country Gyurcsány refused to resign, however,
against the HWP’s monopoly on power. Led and the protests eventually died down.
by the Hungarian Demo cratic Forum (MDF), A member of both NATO (2001) and the
the Alli ance of Free Democrats (SZDSZ) and European Union (2004), the 2008 global
the Federation of Young Democrats (Fidesz), financial crisis hit Hungary hard. In 2010,
the opposition held talks with the govern Fidesz swept to victory with a twothirds
ment in March 1989, and, although no majority – the first party to govern outright
agreement was reached until autumn, the since the fall of Communism – and, despite
days of the oneparty state were numbered. introducing deeply unpopular austerity
On 23 October 1989, the country’s name was measures to rescue the ailing economy,
changed from Hungarian People’s Republic won emphatically again in 2014.
to the Republic of Hungary, a symbolic move
confirming the replacement of the oneparty
system with a multiparty democracy.
Hungary Since 1990
Hungary’s first postCommunist elections,
held in 1990, were won by the MDF. The
HWP took part as the Hungarian Socialist
Party (MSZP), but fared poorly. Árpád Göncz,
who had been sentenced to death for his
part in the 1956 revolution, was elected
president; he was to serve two fiveyear terms.
The 1990–94 government enacted
tough economic reform, including a
massive privatization programme. Living Hungary’s accession to the European Union, 2004
2010 Fidesz wins elections with a
1988 Kádár is Hungarian 2004 Hungary joins 2006 Gyurcsány twothirds majority in Parliament.
forced to national the Euro pean Union and the Socialist
resign by his emblem on 1 May. Party (MSZP) win 2012 A new constitution is
own party. after 1989 the elections. introduced on 1 Jan 2012.
1985 1990 1995 2000 2005 2010 2015
1989 In March a series of talks begins 1999 2009 Ferenc 2014 Fidesz
that will see the HWP renounce its Hungary is 2002 Imre Kertész Gyurcsány resigns wins all
monopoly in October. On 23 October, admitted receives a Nobel and Gordon parliamentary,
the Republic of Hungary becomes the to NATO. prize for literature. Bajnai becomes municipal and
country’s official name. prime minister. EP elections
Ferenc Gyurcsány with a landslide.
044-051_EW_Hungary.indd 51 18/09/17 3:39 pm
BUDAPEST AREA
BY AREA
Budapest at a Glance 54–55
Castle District 56–69
Gellért Hill and Tabán 70–79
Around Parliament 80–93
Central Pest 94–105
Further Afield 106–117
Shopping in Budapest 118–119
Entertainment in Budapest 120–121
Street Finder 122–127
Hun_052-053.indd 52 17/02/2015 12:58 Hun_052-053.indd 53 17/02/2015 12:59
BUDAPEST AREA
BY AREA
Budapest at a Glance 54–55
Castle District 56–69
Gellért Hill and Tabán 70–79
Around Parliament 80–93
Central Pest 94–105
Further Afield 106–117
Shopping in Budapest 118–119
Entertainment in Budapest 120–121
Street Finder 122–127
Hun_052-053.indd 53 17/02/2015 12:59
54 BUD APEST AREA B Y AREA BUD APEST A T A GLANCE 55
Budapest at a Glance This magnificent building hosts the
Parliament
sessions of the Deputy Council
The centre of town includes Buda’s Castle Hill (district I) on the Chamber. It is also the location
western bank of the Danube and districts V, VI, VII, VIII and IX of KATONA JÓSEF U. of Hungary’s most important
Pest on the river’s eastern bank, bounded by the city’s original government offices, including those
KATONA JÓSEF U.
Dan u be (Du n a)
tram line. The Roman numerals denote the official administrative of the prime minister (see pp84–5).
districts. For the purposes of this guide, the centre of Budapest is SZT. ISTVÁN KÖRÚ
divided into four areas. Each area has its own chapter containing Dan u be (Du n a) BALASSI BÁLINT U. BALASSI BÁLINT U. BALATON U. NYUGATITI
NYUGA
BALATON U.
SZT. ISTVÁN KÖRÚT T
TÉR
TÉR
a selection of the most interesting sights that convey its character Nyugati
Nyugati
and history. Sights on the outskirts of the city are covered in MARKÓ U. NAGY IGNÁC U. NAGY IGNÁC U. pályaudvar
MARKÓ U.
pályaudvar
PODMANICZKY U.
a separate chapter. PODMANICZKY U. EÖTVÖS U. ARADI U.
ARADI U.
ALKOTMÁNY U.
EÖTVÖS U.
Országház KOSSUTH HONVÉD U. ALKOTMÁNY U. JÓKAI U. IZABELLA U.
Országház
KOSSUTH
JÓKAI U.
Parliament LAJOS BAJCSY-ZSILINSZKY ÚT BAJCSY-ZSILINSZKY ÚT
Parliament
LAJOS
DESSEWFFY U.
IZABELLA U.
TÉR
TÉR
HONVÉD U.
V
TERÉZ KÖRÚT
TERÉZ KÖRÚT
BÁTHORY U.
SZABÓ ILONKA U.
SZABÓ ILONKA U. Kossuth BÁTHORY U. HOLD U. NAGYMEZŐ U. DESSEWFFY U. Vörösmartyörösmarty
utca
utca
Kossuth
MÁTRAY U.
MÁTRAY U. VÁRFOK U. Lajos tér AROUND Ó U. Ó U. Oktogon
Oktogon
Lajos tér
HOLD U.
VÁRFOK U.
AROUND
NAGYMEZŐ U.
KIRÁLY U.
PARLIAMENT EÖTVÖS U. KIRÁLY U.
PARLIAMENT Magyar ÁllamiMagyar Állami
ANDRÁSSY ÚT
Operaház
Operaház
EÖTVÖS U.
CASTLE
KAPISZTRÁN CASTLE SZABÓ ILONKA U. NÁDOR U. State Opera House LISZT F..
State Opera House
KAPISZTRÁN
LISZT F
TÉR
TÉR ANDRÁSSY ÚT TÉR
TÉR
PAULAY EDE U.
BANK U.
DISTRICT
NÁDOR U.
DISTRICT SZÉCHENYI RAKPART SZÉCHE- BANK U. PAULAY EDE U.
SZÉCHE-
Arany
NYI U. Arany
NYI U.
SZABÓ ILONKA U.
ARANY JÁNOS U.
János u.
Mátyás templom ARANY JÁNOS U. János u. Opera
Mátyás templom
Opera
Mátyás Churchch HERCEGPRÍMÁS U.
Mátyás Chur
Szt. István bazilika
Szt. István bazilika CSÁNYI U.
SZÉCHENYI RAKPART
St Stephen’s Basilica
Déli
Déli ÚRI U. NÁDOR U. ZRÍNYI U. St Stephen’s Basilica KIS DIÓFA U. KERTÉSZ U.
ATTILA ÚT
ZRÍNYI U.
ATTILA ÚT
CSÁNYI U.
SZÉCHENYI
ÚRI U.
HERCEGPRÍMÁS U.
pályaudvar
pályaudvar TÁRNOK U. SZÉCHENYI Key
Bajcsy-
TÉR Bajcsy-
TÉR
KERTÉSZ U.
NÁDOR U.
KIS DIÓFA U.
Széchenyi lánchíd
Zsilinszky út
V Vérmezőérmező LOGODI U. DÍSZ Széchenyi lánchíd Zsilinszky út Major sight
TÁRNOK U.
JÓZSEF ATTILA U.
DÍSZ
LOGODI U.
ERZSÉBET KÖRÚT
ERZSÉBET KÖRÚT
KIRÁLY U.
TÉR J. ÚT. JÓZSEF ATTILA U. KIRÁLY U.
TÉR
FESZTY Á. U. MIKÓ U. CLARK V Vörösmartyörösmarty ERZSÉBET Deák DOB U. DOB U. NAGY DIÓFA U. KLAUZÁL U.
FESZTY Á. U.
MIKÓ U.
J. ÚT.
HUNYADI
HUNYADI
Deák
ERZSÉBET
Fer
Ferenc térenc tér
TÉR
CLARK
TÉR
tér
ÁDÁM
WESSELÉNYI U.
TÉR ALAGÚT U.
TÉR
TINA ALAGÚT U.
TÉR
NAGY DIÓFA U.
KRISZ- SZENT GYÖRGY U. ÁDÁM tér RUMBACH S. U. WESSELÉNYI U. BLAHA
KLAUZÁL U.
KRISZ-
RUMBACH S. U.
BÁRCZY I. U.
TINA
BLAHA
DEÁK FERENC U. BÁRCZY I. U. KÁROLY KÖRÚT RÁKÓCZI ÚT T LUJZA Blaha
DEÁK FERENC U.
LUJZA
DOHÁNY U.
DOHÁNY U.
TÉR
SZENT GYÖRGY U.
TÉR
TÉR
RÁKÓCZI Ú
Blaha
GERLÓCZY U.
KOSCIUSZKO T. U.
KOSCIUSZKO T. U.
Lujza tér
Lujza tér
LÁNCHÍD U.
LÁNCHÍD U.
KÁROLY KÖRÚT
ÁG U.
ÁG U.
BUDAI
VÁRALJA U.
VÁRALJA U.
BUDAI
ATTILA ÚT
ATTILA ÚT
CENTRAL
RÉGIPOSTA U.
Budavári Palota
FENYŐ U. LISZNYAI U. PETŐFI S. U. KOSSUTH SZENTKIRÁLYI U. PEST
Astoria
FENYŐ U.
RÓKA U. NAPHEGY U. Budavári Palota RÉGIPOSTA U. GERLÓCZY U. Astoria CENTRAL SOMOGYI B. U. SOMOGYI B. U.
RÓKA U.
Royal Palace
Royal Palace
GYŐZŐ U.
GYŐZŐ U.
PEST
KOSSUTH
NAPHEGY U.
BELGRÁD RAKPART
BELGRÁD RAKPART
L. U.
KRISZTINA KÖRÚ
PETŐFI S. U.
KRISZTINA KÖRÚT T
LISZNYAI U.
Royal Palace ALSÓ RAKPART VÁCI U. Ferenciekenciek L. U. PUSKIN U. Rákóczi tér
VÁCI U.
Rákóczi tér
Fer
SZENTKIRÁLYI U.
BRÓDY SÁNDOR U.
PUSKIN U.
ter
The Royal Palace has been destroyed and MÉSZÁROS U. SZAR TÉR DÖBRENTEI U. teree MAGYAR U. BRÓDY SÁNDOR U.
DERÉK U.
SZARVASVAS
SZABAD
TÉR
ALSÓ RAKPART
painsta king ly rebuilt many times. It was TIGRIS U. DERÉK U. SZABAD KÁROLYI U. Magyar
SAJTÓ ÚT
Magyar
DÖBRENTEI U.
TIGRIS U.
DÖB-
DÖB-
Nemzeti Múzeum
MAGYAR U.
last meticulously re constructed after RENTEI SAJTÓ ÚT Nemzeti Múzeum
MÉSZÁROS U.
KÁROLYI U.
RENTEI
Hungarian National
Hungarian National
TÉR
TÉR
Erzsébet híd
MÚZEUM KÖRÚT
MÚZEUM KÖRÚT
Museum
World War II, to the form that the ZSOLT U. CZAKÓ U. CZAKÓ U. Erzsébet híd VEREZ PÁLNÉ U. KÁL Museum
HEGYALJA ÚT
SZERB U.
KÁLVINVIN
Habsburgs had given it (see pp44–5). HEGYALJA ÚT GELLÉR SZERB U. Kálvin TÉR SZABÓ E. BARROS U. JÓZEF KÖRÚT JÓZEF KÖRÚT 0 metres 500
TÉR
ZSOLT U.
Kálvin
GELLÉRTT
VEREZ PÁLNÉ U.
BARROS U.
tér
tér
HILL
SZABÓ E.
OROM U.
TÉR
ALSÓHEGY U. MIHÁLY U. SÁNC U. OROM U. HILL SZENT GELLÉRT RAKPART FŐVAMAM VÁMHÁZ KÖRÚT TÉR ÜLLŐI ÚT MÁRIA U. MÁRIA U. 0 yards 500
ALSÓHEGY U.
VÁMHÁZ KÖRÚT
SÁNC U.
AND TABÁNABÁN
AND T
MIHÁLY U.
VÁCI U.
VÁCI U.
ÜLLŐI ÚT
FŐV
TÉR
Gellért-
KŐZTELEK U.
S ZIRTES Ú
GYULA U. SZÁMA D Ó U. S ZIRTES ÚT T Gellért- TÉR Fővám tér GÖN CZY P. U. GÖN CZY P. U. RÁDAY U. KŐZTELEK U. Corvin
GYULA U.
hegy
hegy
Szabadság híd
Fővám tér
SOML ÓI ÚT
SOML ÓI ÚT
Corvin
SZÁMA D Ó U.
SZENT GELLÉRT RAKPART
MÁTYÁS U.
SZIRTES ÚT
SZIRTES ÚT
Negyed
CSARNOK
RÁDAY U.
KELENHEGYI ÚT Szabadság híd CSARNOK MÁTYÁS U. Negyed
KELENHEGYI ÚT
TÉR
SZT.. TÉR
SZT
GELLÉR
GELLÉRTT Szent D a nube ( Dun a LÓNYAI U. KINIZSI U. KNÉZITS U.
SOMLÓI ÚT
F E RENC KÖRÚT
SOMLÓI ÚT
TÉR
TÉR
Szent
KELENHE GYI ÚT
KELENHE GYI ÚT
Gellért tér
Gellért tér
KINIZSI U. KNÉZITS U.
MIN ER VA U
LÓNYAI U.
Gellért gyógyfür
Gellért gyógyfürdödö
KELE NHEGYI Ú
KELE NHEGYI Ú T T
SZÜRET U.
és szálló
BÁKATS U.
és szálló
SZÜRET U. SOMLÓI ÚT MIN ER VA U. . and Baths Complex KÖZRAKTÁR U. BÁKATS U. F E RENC KÖRÚT
SOMLÓI ÚT
MÉNESI ÚT
MÉNESI ÚT
Gellért Hotel
Gellért Hotel
D a nube ( Dun a) )
and Baths Complex
KÖZRAKTÁR U.
BARTÓK BÉLA ÚT
BARTÓK BÉLA ÚT
MÉNESI ÚT M ÁNYO K I Ú T T M ÁNYO K I Ú
MÉNESI ÚT
B ALOGH LEJ T Ő
B ALOGH LEJ T Ő
VILLÁNYI ÚT
VILLÁNYI ÚT
Liberation Monument FADRUSZ U. FADRUSZ U.
This statue of a woman holding aloft the palm
of victory was created by the Hungarian sculptor
Zsigmond Kisfaludi Strobl. Situated in a park on Váci Street
Gellért Hill, the monument is visible from all This pedestrianized street is a favourite
over the city, and so it has become one strolling promenade, with designer and
of the symbols of Budapest (see p76). souvenir shops, cafés and pubs (see pp96–7).
Hungary’s Parliament, the largest building in the country For additional keys to symbols see back flap
Hun_054-055.indd 54 17/02/2015 12:58 Hun_054-055.indd 55 17/02/2015 12:58
BUD APEST A T A GLANCE 55
Parliament
This magnificent building hosts the
sessions of the Deputy Council
Chamber. It is also the location
of Hungary’s most important
government offices, including those
KATONA JÓSEF U.
Dan u be (Du n a) BALASSI BÁLINT U. BALATON U. NAGY IGNÁC U. pályaudvar
of the prime minister (see pp84–5).
NYUGATI
SZT. ISTVÁN KÖRÚT
TÉR
Nyugati
MARKÓ U.
EÖTVÖS U.
Országház KOSSUTH HONVÉD U. ALKOTMÁNY U. PODMANICZKY U. TERÉZ KÖRÚT ARADI U. IZABELLA U.
JÓKAI U.
Parliament LAJOS BAJCSY-ZSILINSZKY ÚT
TÉR
SZABÓ ILONKA U. Kossuth BÁTHORY U. HOLD U. NAGYMEZŐ U. DESSEWFFY U. Vörösmarty
utca
MÁTRAY U. VÁRFOK U. Lajos tér AROUND Ó U. Oktogon
PARLIAMENT Magyar Állami EÖTVÖS U. KIRÁLY U.
Operaház
KAPISZTRÁN CASTLE SZABÓ ILONKA U. NÁDOR U. State Opera House LISZT F.
TÉR ANDRÁSSY ÚT TÉR
DISTRICT SZÉCHENYI RAKPART SZÉCHE- BANK U. PAULAY EDE U.
NYI U. Arany
Mátyás templom ARANY JÁNOS U. János u. Opera
Mátyás Church HERCEGPRÍMÁS U.
Szt. István bazilika CSÁNYI U.
Déli ÚRI U. NÁDOR U. ZRÍNYI U. St Stephen’s Basilica KIS DIÓFA U. KERTÉSZ U.
ATTILA ÚT
pályaudvar TÁRNOK U. SZÉCHENYI Key
TÉR Bajcsy-
Vérmező LOGODI U. DÍSZ Széchenyi lánchíd Zsilinszky út Major sight
ERZSÉBET KÖRÚT
TÉR J. ÚT. JÓZSEF ATTILA U. KIRÁLY U.
FESZTY Á. U. MIKÓ U. CLARK Vörösmarty ERZSÉBET Deák DOB U. NAGY DIÓFA U. KLAUZÁL U.
HUNYADI
Ferenc tér
TÉR
TINA ALAGÚT U.
TÉR
KRISZ- SZENT GYÖRGY U. ÁDÁM tér RUMBACH S. U. WESSELÉNYI U. BLAHA
DEÁK FERENC U. BÁRCZY I. U. KÁROLY KÖRÚT RÁKÓCZI ÚT TÉR Blaha
DOHÁNY U.
TÉR LÁNCHÍD U. LUJZA
KOSCIUSZKO T. U.
Lujza tér
ÁG U.
BUDAI
VÁRALJA U.
ATTILA ÚT
FENYŐ U. LISZNYAI U. VÁCI U. PETŐFI S. U. KOSSUTH SZENTKIRÁLYI U. PEST
RÓKA U. NAPHEGY U. Budavári Palota RÉGIPOSTA U. GERLÓCZY U. Astoria CENTRAL SOMOGYI B. U.
Royal Palace
GYŐZŐ U.
BELGRÁD RAKPART
KRISZTINA KÖRÚT
Ferenciek L. U. PUSKIN U. Rákóczi tér
tere
DERÉK U. SZARVAS DÖB- SZABAD KÁROLYI U. MAGYAR U. BRÓDY SÁNDOR U.
TÉR
ALSÓ RAKPART
SAJTÓ ÚT
Magyar
DÖBRENTEI U.
TIGRIS U.
CZAKÓ U. RENTEI Erzsébet híd VEREZ PÁLNÉ U. Nemzeti Múzeum
MÉSZÁROS U.
Hungarian National
TÉR
MÚZEUM KÖRÚT
Museum
HEGYALJA ÚT GELLÉRT SZERB U. Kálvin KÁLVIN SZABÓ E. BARROS U. JÓZEF KÖRÚT 0 metres 500
TÉR
ZSOLT U.
tér
HILL
ALSÓHEGY U. MIHÁLY U. OROM U. SZENT GELLÉRT RAKPART FŐVAM VÁMHÁZ KÖRÚT TÉR ÜLLŐI ÚT MÁRIA U. 0 yards 500
SÁNC U.
AND TABÁN
VÁCI U.
hegy
GYULA U. SZÁMA D Ó U. S ZIRTES ÚT Gellért- TÉR Fővám tér GÖN CZY P. U. RÁDAY U. KŐZTELEK U. Corvin
SOML ÓI ÚT
SZIRTES ÚT
KELENHEGYI ÚT Szabadság híd CSARNOK MÁTYÁS U. Negyed
SZT. TÉR
GELLÉRT Szent D a nube ( Dun a) LÓNYAI U. KINIZSI U. KNÉZITS U.
SOMLÓI ÚT
TÉR
KELENHE GYI ÚT
Gellért tér
KELE NHEGYI Ú T
és szálló
SZÜRET U. SOMLÓI ÚT MIN ER VA U. Gellért gyógyfürdö KÖZRAKTÁR U. BÁKATS U. F E RENC KÖRÚT
MÉNESI ÚT
Gellért Hotel
and Baths Complex
BARTÓK BÉLA ÚT
MÉNESI ÚT M ÁNYO K I Ú T
B ALOGH LEJ T Ő
VILLÁNYI ÚT
FADRUSZ U.
Váci Street
This pedestrianized street is a favourite
strolling promenade, with designer and
souvenir shops, cafés and pubs (see pp96–7).
For additional keys to symbols see back flap
Hun_054-055.indd 55 17/02/2015 12:58
BUD APEST AREA B Y AREA 57
CASTLE DISTRICT
The hill town of Buda grew up around its castle evolution of Buda but it was neglected under
and Mátyás Church from the 13th cen tury Turkish rule and then destroyed by Christian
onwards. The hill’s fine strategic position, troops. Under the Habs burgs, the town was
at 60 m (197 ft) above the Danube, and its reborn, however, and assumed an important
natural resources made it a prize site. In role during the 18th and 19th centuries. By
the 13th century, a large settle ment arose the end of World War II, the old town had
when King Béla IV decided to build his own been almost utterly destroyed and the Royal
defensive castle and establish his capital here. Palace burned to the ground. Since the war,
The reign of King Mátyás Corvinus in the both the district and the palace have been
15th century was an important period in the restored to their former glory.
Sights at a Glance
Churches
w Mátyás Church pp66–7 0 The Hungarian House Palaces, Historic Buildings
u Buda Lutheran Church p Museum of Military History and Monuments
i Church of St Mary s Hospital in the Rock 3 Mátyás Fountain
Magdalene Historic Streets and Squares 5 Sándor Palace
Museums and Galleries 7 Parade Square 6 Tunnel
1 Budapest History Museum 9 Holy Trinity Square q Fisherman’s Bastion
e Hilton Budapest Hotel
2 National Széchényi Library r András Hess Square
4 Hungarian National Gallery t Mihály Táncsics Street
see pp62–3 y Vienna Gate Square
8 Golden Eagle Pharmacy o Parliament Street
Museum a Lords’ Street
SZABÓ ILONKA U.
SZABÓ ILONKA U.
MÁTRAY U. . LOVAS ÚT HUNFALVY U. .
MÁTRAY U
HUNFALVY U
LOVAS ÚT
BABITS M.
BABITS M.
SÉTANY
SÉTANY
KARD U.
KAPISZTRÁN
KAPISZTRÁN KARD U. TÁNCSICS M. U.
TÉR
TÉR FORTUNA U. GIMN ÁZ I U M U . . SZABÓ ILONKA U
TÁNCSICS M. U.
FORTUNA U.
LOGODI U
LOGODI U. .
LOVAS Ú
LOVAS ÚT T
FORTUNA K. K. See also Street Finder
FORTUNA
GIMN ÁZ I U M U
SZABÓ ILONKA U. .
ÚRI U
ÚRI U. .
KORLÁT U. ORSZÁGHÁZ U maps 1 & 3
KORLÁT U.
ORSZÁGH
DÁRDA U.
DÁRDA U. ÁZ U. .
SZENTHÁROMSÁG
SZENTHÁROMSÁG
TÉR
TÉR
V HUNYADI JÁNO S Ú T
VÁ RÁ R
HUNYADI JÁNO S Ú T
LOVAS ÚT
LOVAS ÚT
ÚRI U.
ÚRI U.
TÁRNOK U
TÁRNOK U. .
LOGODI U
LOGODI U. .
DÍSZ
DÍSZ
TÉR
TÉR
PALOTA Ú
PALOTA ÚT T
TÉR
TÉR
SZT
SZT. GYÖRGY. GYÖRGY
TÉR CLARK ÁDÁM FRIEDRICH BORN R.
TÉR
D a n u b e
D a n u b e
LÁNCHÍD U
LÁNCHÍD U. .
CLARK ÁDÁM FRIEDRICH BORN R.
0 metres 400 PALOTA Ú
PALOTA ÚT T
0 yards 400
Intricate stonework and polychrome roof tiles on the Mátyás Church For keys to map symbols see back flap
Hun_056-057_Area-intro.indd 56 17/02/2015 12:58 Hun_056-057_Area-intro.indd 57 17/02/2015 12:58
BUD APEST AREA B Y AREA 57
CASTLE DISTRICT
The hill town of Buda grew up around its castle evolution of Buda but it was neglected under
and Mátyás Church from the 13th cen tury Turkish rule and then destroyed by Christian
onwards. The hill’s fine strategic position, troops. Under the Habs burgs, the town was
at 60 m (197 ft) above the Danube, and its reborn, however, and assumed an important
natural resources made it a prize site. In role during the 18th and 19th centuries. By
the 13th century, a large settle ment arose the end of World War II, the old town had
when King Béla IV decided to build his own been almost utterly destroyed and the Royal
defensive castle and establish his capital here. Palace burned to the ground. Since the war,
The reign of King Mátyás Corvinus in the both the district and the palace have been
15th century was an important period in the restored to their former glory.
Sights at a Glance
Churches
w Mátyás Church pp66–7 0 The Hungarian House Palaces, Historic Buildings
u Buda Lutheran Church p Museum of Military History and Monuments
i Church of St Mary s Hospital in the Rock 3 Mátyás Fountain
Magdalene Historic Streets and Squares 5 Sándor Palace
Museums and Galleries 7 Parade Square 6 Tunnel
1 Budapest History Museum 9 Holy Trinity Square q Fisherman’s Bastion
e Hilton Budapest Hotel
2 National Széchényi Library r András Hess Square
4 Hungarian National Gallery t Mihály Táncsics Street
see pp62–3 y Vienna Gate Square
8 Golden Eagle Pharmacy o Parliament Street
Museum a Lords’ Street
SZABÓ ILONKA U.
MÁTRAY U. LOVAS ÚT HUNFALVY U.
BABITS M.
SÉTANY
KAPISZTRÁN KARD U. TÁNCSICS M. U.
TÉR FORTUNA U. GIMN ÁZ I U M U . SZABÓ ILONKA U.
LOGODI U.
FORTUNA K. See also Street Finder
LOVAS ÚT
ÚRI U.
KORLÁT U. maps 1 & 3
ORSZÁGH
DÁRDA U. ÁZ U.
SZENTHÁROMSÁG
TÉR
VÁ R HUNYADI JÁNO S Ú T
LOVAS ÚT
ÚRI U.
TÁRNOK U.
LOGODI U.
DÍSZ
TÉR
PALOTA ÚT
TÉR
SZT. GYÖRGY
TÉR CLARK ÁDÁM FRIEDRICH BORN R.
D a n u b e
LÁNCHÍD U.
0 metres 400 PALOTA ÚT
0 yards 400
Intricate stonework and polychrome roof tiles on the Mátyás Church For keys to map symbols see back flap
Hun_056-057_Area-intro.indd 57 17/02/2015 12:58
58 BUD APEST AREA B Y AREA C ASTLE DISTRIC T 59
Street-by-Street: The Royal Palace The dome of the Royal Palace
was rebuilt in the Neo-Classical
style after the Neo-Baroque
The Royal Palace has experienced many incarnations dome, designed by
CASTLE
during its long life. Even now it is not known exactly Alajos Hauszmann, was DISTRICT
where King Béla IV began building his castle, though destroyed in the razing
it is thought to be nearer the site of Mátyás Church of the palace during Danube
World War II.
(see pp66–7). The Holy Roman Emperor Sigismund of HILL AND
GELLÉRT
Luxembourg built a Gothic palace on the present site, S Z Í N H Á Z U TABÁN
from which today’s castle began to evolve. In the Locator Map
18th century, the Habsburgs built their monumental See Street Finder map 1
palace here. The current form dates from the
rebuilding of the 19th-century palace after its
destruction in February 1945. During this work,
remains of the 15th-century Gothic palace were S Z T G Y Ö R G Y U
exposed and Hungarian archaeologists decided
to reveal the recovered defensive walls and royal A statue of Prince Eugene of
Savoy, by József Róna, was unveiled
chambers in the reconstruction. in 1900. It commemo rates the
5 Sándor Palace Battle of Zenta in 1697, victory
at which was a turning point in
An ornamental gateway, the Turkish war. The bas-reliefs
dating from 1903, leads to on the base depict scenes
the Habsburg Steps and the from the battle. Two Turkish
Royal Palace. Nearby, a priso ners cower by the feet
bronze sculpture of the of the prince.
mythical turul bird guards
the palace. This statue
marked the millennium
anniversary of the Magyar
conquest in 896.
3 . Mátyás Fountain
In the northern courtyard of the Royal Palace
stands the Mátyás Fountain. It was designed by
Alajos Stróbl in 1904 and depicts King Mátyás
Corvinus and his beloved Ilonka.
4 . Hungarian National Gallery
Artworks depicting Hungary’s turbulent history
are displayed here. Periods of both foreign
domination and patriotic home rule are brought
The Lion Gate, leading to to life through the gallery’s extensive collection.
a rear courtyard of the
Royal Palace, gets its
name from the four lions 0 metres 50
that watch over it. These 0 yards 50
sculptures were designed
by János Fadrusz in 1901.
Building the Royal Palace
1255 First written c.1400 Sigismund 1541 After 1719 The building of 1881 The architect
document, a letter of Luxembourg capturing Buda, the a small palace begins Miklós Ybl begins In the early 15th century, a Gothic Royal
by King Béla IV, builds an ambit ious Turks use the Royal on the ruins of the old programme to
refers to building a Gothic pal ace on Palace to stable palace, to a design rebuild and expand Palace was built on the site, but it was rebuilt
fortified castle this site horses and store by Hölbling and the Royal Palace in the Renaissance style by King Mátyás in 1458.
gunpowder Fortunato de Prati 2 National After the Turkish occupation it was razed and
Széchényi Library reborn on a smaller scale. Maria Theresa further
1200 1400 1600 1800 1 Budapest developed the palace and it was rebuilt again
c.1356 Louis I builds a 1686 The assault by Christian History Museum after World War II to a design originally
royal castle on the soldiers leaves the palace 1849 Royal Palace is completed in 1905.
southern slopes of completely razed to the ground destroyed again, Turul
Castle Hill during an unsuc bird Key 15th century 1749
1458 A Renaissance palace evolves 1749 Maria Theresa builds a vast cessful attack by Suggested route 1719 1905
under King Mátyás palace comprising 203 chambers Hungarian insurgents
For hotels and restaurants see pp264–9 and pp276–85
Hun_058-059_SS.indd 58 17/02/2015 12:58 Hun_058-059_SS.indd 59 17/02/2015 12:58
C ASTLE DISTRIC T 59
The dome of the Royal Palace
was rebuilt in the Neo-Classical
style after the Neo-Baroque
dome, designed by CASTLE
Alajos Hauszmann, was DISTRICT
destroyed in the razing
of the palace during Danube
World War II.
GELLÉRT
HILL AND
TABÁN
Locator Map
See Street Finder map 1
A statue of Prince Eugene of
Savoy, by József Róna, was unveiled
in 1900. It commemo rates the
Battle of Zenta in 1697, victory
at which was a turning point in
the Turkish war. The bas-reliefs
on the base depict scenes
from the battle. Two Turkish
priso ners cower by the feet
of the prince.
4 . Hungarian National Gallery
Artworks depicting Hungary’s turbulent history
are displayed here. Periods of both foreign
domination and patriotic home rule are brought
to life through the gallery’s extensive collection.
0 metres 50
0 yards 50
Building the Royal Palace
In the early 15th century, a Gothic Royal
Palace was built on the site, but it was rebuilt
in the Renaissance style by King Mátyás in 1458.
2 National After the Turkish occupation it was razed and
Széchényi Library reborn on a smaller scale. Maria Theresa further
1 Budapest developed the palace and it was rebuilt again
History Museum after World War II to a design originally
completed in 1905.
Key 15th century 1749
Suggested route 1719 1905
Hun_058-059_SS.indd 59 17/02/2015 12:58
60 BUD APEST AREA B Y AREA C ASTLE DISTRIC T 61
1985, in the Royal Palace hunting expedition, meets a
Building “F”, built in 1890–1902 beautiful peasant girl, Ilonka,
by Alajos Hauszmann and who falls in love with him,
Miklós Ybl (see p93). Among but their love is doomed. This
the national library’s most representation shows King
precious treasures are 35 pieces Mátyás disguised as hunter,
from the Bibliotheca Corviniana, standing proudly with his kill.
a collection of ancient books He is accompanied by his chief
and manu scripts that originally hunter and several hunting
belonged to King Mátyás dogs in the central part of the
Corvinus (see pp40–41). His fountain. Below the left-hand
collection was one of the largest columns sits Galeotto Marzio,
Renaissance libraries in Europe. an Italian court poet, and the
Also of importance are the figure of the young Ilonka is The imposing entrance to the tunnel on Clark Ádám tér
earliest-surviving records in below the columns on the right.
the Hungarian language, dating In keeping with the romantic elevation depicts Greek gods on The entrance on Clark Ádám
from the early 13th century. reputation of King Mátyás, a Mount Olympus. The south side tér is flanked by two pairs
The library was established new tradition has grown up shows Count Sándor being of Doric columns. The square in
Fifteenth-century Renaissance majolica floor, uncovered during excavations on Castle Hill by Count Ferenc Széchényi in concerning this statue. The knighted, and the north ern front of the tunnel is the city’s
and displayed at the Budapest History Museum 1802, who endowed it with belief is that anyone wishing façade features a 1934 sculpture official centre because of the
35,000 books and manu scripts. to revisit Budapest should of St George by Zsigmond location here of the Zero
1 Castle Museum dating from the 14th and 15th Now comprising nine million throw a coin into the fountain Kisfaludi Strobl. Kilometre Stone, from which all
(Budapest History centuries. On the first floor, the items, the library’s primary task to ensure their safe return. Sándor Palace functioned as distan ces from Budapest are
permanent exhibition “Budapest is to collect everything published the prime minister’s official calculated.
Museum) – Light and Shadow” leads the in Hungary, in the Hungarian 4 Hungarian residence from 1867 to 1944, The tunnel’s western entrance
Budapesti Történeti Múzeum visitor through the millennia language, by a Hungarian author, when it was severely damaged was originally orna mented with
Vármúzeuma that formed the Hungarian or that refers to Hungary. National Gallery in World War II. It has been Egyptian motifs. However, it
capital, the River Danube acting Magyar Nemzeti Galéria completely restored and is now was rebuilt with out these
Szent György tér 2, Royal Palace
Building “E”. Map 3 C1. Tel (1) 487 88 as a guide through periods See pp62–3. the official residence of the details after it was damaged in
71. @ 5, 16, 16A, 116, 178. v 18. of war and peace, prosperity President of Hungary. World War II.
Open Mar–Oct: 10am–6pm Tue–Sun; and decline.
Nov–Feb: 10am–4pm Tue–Sun. & 5 Sándor Palace
7 fee ∑ btm.hu Sándor-palota 6 Tunnel 7 Parade Square
2 National Dísz tér
Szent György tér 1–3. Map 1 B5. Alagút
Since Budapest’s unification in Széchényi Library @ 16, 16A, 116. Open only on special Map 1 B5.
1873, historic artifacts relating Országos Széchényi Könyvtár occasions. ∑ keh.hu Clark Ádám tér. Map 1 C5. @ 16, 16A, 116.
@ 16, 86.
to the city have been collected Szent György tér 6, Royal Palace
and many are on show at the Building “F”. Map 3 C1. Tel (1) 224 37 By the top of the cog-wheel The Scottish engineer Adam In the past, Parade Square was
Budapest History Museum. 00. @ 5, 16, 16A, 116, 178. v 18. railway stands the grand Clark settled in Hungary a marketplace and a site of
During the rebuilding that Open 9am–8pm Tue–Sat. Closed Neo-Classical mansion, Sándor after completing the Chain execution. It is named after the
followed the destruction suffered mid- Jul–mid-Aug. ∑ oszk.hu Palace. It was commissioned Bridge. One of his later military parades that were held
in World War II, chambers dating Crest on the Lion Gate, adjacent to the in 1806 by Count Vincent projects, in 1853–7, was here in the 19th century. At the
from the Middle Ages were uncov- A superb collection of books, Mátyás Fountain Sándor from architects Mihály the construction of the northern end of the square is
ered in the south wing (Building “E”) manuscripts, maps, engravings, Pollack and Johann Aman. tunnel that runs right through the Honvéd Monu ment, built in
of the Royal Palace. They provide posters, photographs and sheet 3 Mátyás Fountain The bas-reliefs that decorate Castle Hill, from Clark Ádám 1893 by György Zala. It honours
an insight into the character of a music has been housed, since Mátyás kút the palace are the work of tér to Krisztinaváros. The and com memorates those
much earlier castle within today’s Royal Palace. Map 1 B5. Richárd Török, Miklós Melocco tunnel is 350 m (1,150 ft) who died during the recapture
Habs burg reconstruction. @ 5, 16, 16A, 116, 178. v 18. and Tamás Körössényi. The long, 9 m (30 ft) wide and of Buda from Austria in the
These rediscovered chambers, decoration on the western 11 m (36 ft) in height. 1848 revolution.
including a tiny prison cell and a The ornate fountain in the The two-floor Baroque palace
chapel, were recreated in the base- northernmost courtyard of at No. 3 was the home of the
ment of the palace. They now the Royal Palace (between Batthyány family until 1945.
house an exhibition, the Royal Build ings “A” and “C”) was It was built between 1743
Palace in medieval Buda, which designed by Alajos Stróbl in and 1748 by József Giessl,
displays various interesting items, 1904. The statue is dedicated and, although it has been
including authentic weapons, to the great Renaissance king, frequently remodelled, the
seals, tiles and other early artifacts. Mátyás, about whom there façade remains intact.
On the ground and first floor, are many legends and fables. A few houses on Parade
exhibits testify to the history of The Romantic design of the Square incorporate medieval
Buda castle from 1686 to the bronze sculptures takes its remains. Examples can be seen
present. On the ground floor are theme from a 19th-century at Nos. 4–5 and No. 11, built by
Gothic statues from the Royal ballad by the poet Mihály Venerio Ceresola. The former
Palace and a tapestry with the Corvinian illuminated manuscript Vörösmarty. According to the has seat niches dating from
Hungarian–Angevin coat-of-arms, in the National Széchényi Library tale, King Mátyás, while on a The western elevation of the Neo-Classical Sándor Palace the 13th century.
For hotels and restaurants see pp264–269 and pp276–285
060-061_EW_Hungary.indd 60 19/09/17 10:45 am 060-061_EW_Hungary.indd 61 19/09/17 10:45 am
C ASTLE DISTRIC T 61
hunting expedition, meets a
beautiful peasant girl, Ilonka,
who falls in love with him,
but their love is doomed. This
representation shows King
Mátyás disguised as hunter,
standing proudly with his kill.
He is accompanied by his chief
hunter and several hunting
dogs in the central part of the
fountain. Below the left-hand
columns sits Galeotto Marzio,
an Italian court poet, and the
figure of the young Ilonka is The imposing entrance to the tunnel on Clark Ádám tér
below the columns on the right.
In keeping with the romantic elevation depicts Greek gods on The entrance on Clark Ádám
reputation of King Mátyás, a Mount Olympus. The south side tér is flanked by two pairs
new tradition has grown up shows Count Sándor being of Doric columns. The square in
concerning this statue. The knighted, and the north ern front of the tunnel is the city’s
belief is that anyone wishing façade features a 1934 sculpture official centre because of the
to revisit Budapest should of St George by Zsigmond location here of the Zero
throw a coin into the fountain Kisfaludi Strobl. Kilometre Stone, from which all
to ensure their safe return. Sándor Palace functioned as distan ces from Budapest are
the prime minister’s official calculated.
4 Hungarian residence from 1867 to 1944, The tunnel’s western entrance
when it was severely damaged was originally orna mented with
National Gallery in World War II. It has been Egyptian motifs. However, it
Magyar Nemzeti Galéria completely restored and is now was rebuilt with out these
See pp62–3. the official residence of the details after it was damaged in
President of Hungary. World War II.
5 Sándor Palace
Sándor-palota 6 Tunnel 7 Parade Square
Dísz tér
Szent György tér 1–3. Map 1 B5. Alagút
@ 16, 16A, 116. Open only on special Clark Ádám tér. Map 1 C5. Map 1 B5.
occasions. ∑ keh.hu @ 16, 86. @ 16, 16A, 116.
By the top of the cog-wheel The Scottish engineer Adam In the past, Parade Square was
railway stands the grand Clark settled in Hungary a marketplace and a site of
Neo-Classical mansion, Sándor after completing the Chain execution. It is named after the
Palace. It was commissioned Bridge. One of his later military parades that were held
in 1806 by Count Vincent projects, in 1853–7, was here in the 19th century. At the
Sándor from architects Mihály the construction of the northern end of the square is
Pollack and Johann Aman. tunnel that runs right through the Honvéd Monu ment, built in
The bas-reliefs that decorate Castle Hill, from Clark Ádám 1893 by György Zala. It honours
the palace are the work of tér to Krisztinaváros. The and com memorates those
Richárd Török, Miklós Melocco tunnel is 350 m (1,150 ft) who died during the recapture
and Tamás Körössényi. The long, 9 m (30 ft) wide and of Buda from Austria in the
decoration on the western 11 m (36 ft) in height. 1848 revolution.
The two-floor Baroque palace
at No. 3 was the home of the
Batthyány family until 1945.
It was built between 1743
and 1748 by József Giessl,
and, although it has been
frequently remodelled, the
façade remains intact.
A few houses on Parade
Square incorporate medieval
remains. Examples can be seen
at Nos. 4–5 and No. 11, built by
Venerio Ceresola. The former
has seat niches dating from
The western elevation of the Neo-Classical Sándor Palace the 13th century.
060-061_EW_Hungary.indd 61 19/09/17 10:45 am
62 BUD APEST AREA B Y AREA C ASTLE DISTRIC T 63
4 Hungarian National Gallery Luischen (1884)
One of the earliest works by the sculptor VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Alajos Stróbl is this marble bust of a young
Established in 1957, the Hungarian National St Anne Altarpiece (c.1520) girl who was to become his wife. Practical Information
Gallery houses a comprehensive collection This elaborately decora- Buda Palace, Wings A, B, C, D,
ted folding altarpiece
of Hungarian art from medieval times to from Kisszeben is one Szent György tér 2. Map 3 1B/C.
Tel (1) 439 73 25. Open 10am–
the 20th century. Gathered by various groups of the gallery’s 6pm Tue–Sun (last ticket 5pm).
and institutions since 1839, these works had Gothic high lights. & 8 call to arrange for an
previously been exhibited at the Hungarian English-speaking guide, (1) 201
National Museum (see pp102–3) and the Museum 90 82. = - ∑ mng.hu
of Fine Arts (see p110). The collection now Woman Bathing Transport
(1901)
@ 16, 16A, 116.
occupies four wings (A, B, C and D) of the Royal Third floor This painting by
Palace. There are eight permanent exhibitions, Károly Lotz is the
which present the most valuable and critically finest example of Gallery Guide
acclaimed Hungarian art in the world. Neo-Classical Early stone and Gothic exhibits
painting in Hungary. are on the ground floor.
It reflects his Late Gothic, Renaissance
fascination for the
Madonna of Toporc (c. 1420) work of the French and Baroque works and
This is a captivating example of painter, Ingres. 19th-century works share the
medieval wood sculpture in the first floor. Works from the early
Gothic style. It was originally 20th century are on the second
crafted for a church in floor, and the most modern
Spiz (now part of Slovakia). pieces are on the third floor.
First floor
Second
floor
Madonna of Bártfa
(1465–70)
This painting of Virgin
and Child is from a
church in Bártfa (now in
Slovakia). It is thought
to have been painted in
Krakow, Poland. Churning Woman (1872–3)
This painting is by Mihály
Wing D Ground Munkácsy, Hungary’s most
floor Wing C internationally celebrated artist. The
tiredness of the woman’s features
Main entrance with her worn hands show the
reality of a life of poverty.
Key
Medieval and Renaissance stone carvings
Panel paintings and wooden sculptures
from the Gothic period
. The Visitation
(1506) Late Gothic winged altarpieces
This painting by Master Late Renaissance and Baroque art
MS is a delightful 19th-century paintings, sculptures and medals Wing B . Picnic in May (1873)
example of late Gothic Paintings, sculptures and medals 1900–1945 The captivating colours of this
Hungarian art. It is a landscape scene were painted
fragment of a folding Hungarian art post-1945 Wing A by Pál Szinyei Merse. He was
altarpiece from a Mihály Munkácsy and The Realism of the End influenced by two works of
church in Selmecbánya of the 19th Century Edouard Manet and Claude Monet,
in modern-day Slovakia. Temporary exhibition space both entitled Le Déjeuner sur l’Herbe.
For hotels and restaurants see pp264–269 and pp276–285
062-063_EW_Hungary.indd 62 18/09/17 3:39 pm 062-063_EW_Hungary.indd 63 18/09/17 3:39 pm
C ASTLE DISTRIC T 63
Luischen (1884)
One of the earliest works by the sculptor VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Alajos Stróbl is this marble bust of a young
girl who was to become his wife. Practical Information
Buda Palace, Wings A, B, C, D,
Szent György tér 2. Map 3 1B/C.
Tel (1) 439 73 25. Open 10am–
6pm Tue–Sun (last ticket 5pm).
& 8 call to arrange for an
English-speaking guide, (1) 201
90 82. = - ∑ mng.hu
Woman Bathing Transport
(1901) @ 16, 16A, 116.
Third floor This painting by
Károly Lotz is the
finest example of Gallery Guide
Neo-Classical Early stone and Gothic exhibits
painting in Hungary. are on the ground floor.
It reflects his Late Gothic, Renaissance
fascination for the and Baroque works and
work of the French 19th-century works share the
painter, Ingres.
first floor. Works from the early
20th century are on the second
floor, and the most modern
pieces are on the third floor.
Second
floor
Churning Woman (1872–3)
This painting is by Mihály
Munkácsy, Hungary’s most
internationally celebrated artist. The
tiredness of the woman’s features
with her worn hands show the
reality of a life of poverty.
Wing B . Picnic in May (1873)
The captivating colours of this
landscape scene were painted
Wing A
by Pál Szinyei Merse. He was
influenced by two works of
Edouard Manet and Claude Monet,
both entitled Le Déjeuner sur l’Herbe.
062-063_EW_Hungary.indd 63 18/09/17 3:39 pm
64 BUD APEST AREA B Y AREA C ASTLE DISTRIC T 65
8 Golden Eagle of holy figures and at the beautiful interior is also used r András Hess
Pharmacy Museum summit is a magnificent for cultural events and, while Square
Arany Sas Patikamúzeum composition of the figures of parts of the exhibition may be Hess András tér
unfamiliar to non-Hungarians,
the Holy Trinity. The central
Tárnok utca 18. Map 1 B5. section of the column is the regular performances of Map 1 B4. @ 16 from Deák tér, 16,
Tel (1) 375 97 72. @ 16 from Deák tér, music and dance held here 16A & 116 from Széll Kálmán tér.
16, 16A & 116 from Széll Kálmán tér. decorated with angelic figures need no translation.
Open Mar–Oct: 10am–5:30pm Tue– surrounded by clouds.
Sun; Nov–Feb: 10am–3:30pm Tue–Fri, Buda’s Old Town Hall, a large This square is named after the
10am–5:30pm Sat & Sun. Baroque building with two Italiantrained printer who
courtyards, was also built on printed the first Hungarian
This pharmacy was opened the square at the begin ning book, Chronica Hungarorum, in a
in 1688 by Ferenc Ignác of the 18th century. It was printing works at No. 4 in 1473.
Bösinger and traded under designed by the imperial The house was rebuilt at the The Museum of Musical History on Mihály
the name “The Golden Eagle” court architect, Venerio end of the 17th century, Táncsics Street
from 1740. It moved to this Ceresola, whose architectural amalgamating three medieval
originally Gothic building, scheme incorporated the houses, with quadruple seat on three sides. Like many
with a Baroque interior and remains of medieval houses. niches, barrelvaulted cellars houses on this street, it was
Neo-Classical façade, in the In 1770–74, an east wing was and ornamen tal gates. erected on the ruins of medieval
18th century. The museum built, and bay windows and a The former inn at No. 3 was houses. In 1800, Ludwig van
opened in 1974 and displays stone balustrade with Rococo named the Red Hedgehog in Beethoven, who was then
pharmaceutical items from the urns, by Mátyás Nepauer, were 1696. This onefloor building giving concerts in Budapest,
Renaissance and Baroque eras. also added. The corner niche, has surviving Gothic and resided here for a short time.
opposite Mátyás Church, Bas-relief depicting King Mátyás on the Baroque elements. The palace now houses the
9 Holy Trinity houses a small statue of the A statue of St István in front of the Hilton Budapest Hotel’s façade The square also features a Museum of Musical History and
Greek goddess Pallas Athene Fisherman’s Bastion statue by József Damkó of Pope the Béla Bartók archives. A
Square by Carlo Adami. e Hilton Budapest Innocent XI, who was involved permanent exhibition illustrates
Szentháromság tér q Fisherman’s Hotel in organizing the armies that musical life in Budapest from
Map 1 B5. @ 16 from Deák tér, 16, 0 The Hungarian Bastion Hilton Szálloda recaptured Buda from the the 18th to 20th centuries, and
16A & 116 from Széll Kálmán tér. Halászbástya Turks. It was built to mark the includes some of the oldest
House Hess András tér 1–3. Map 1 B4. Tel (1) 250th anniversary of the surviving Hungarian musical
This square is the central point Magyarság Háza Szentháromság tér. Map 1 B5. @ 16 889 66 00. @ 16 from Deák tér, 16, liberation, in 1936. instruments.
of the old town. It takes its Szentháromság tér 6. Map 1 B5. from Deák tér, 16, 16A & 116 from Széll 16A & 116 from Széll Kálmán tér. 7 The Royal Mint stood on the
Kálmán tér. Open 1 May–15 Oct: 9am–
name from the Baroque Holy Tel (1) 795 26 19. @ 16 from Deák tér, 8pm (16 Mar–30 Apr: to 7pm). & t Mihály Táncsics site of No. 9 during the Middle
Trinity Column, originally 16, 16A & 116 from Széll Kálmán tér. Built in 1976, the Hilton Buda Ages and, in 1810, the Joseph
sculpted by Philipp Ungleich in Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sat. 8 & Frigyes Schulek designed this pest Hotel is a rare example of Street Barracks were built here.
1710–13 and restored in 1967. 7 ∑ magyarsaghaza.net Neo-Romanesque monument modern architecture in the old Táncsics Mihály utca These were later used by the
The column commemorates On the north side of Holy Trinity to the Guild of Fishermen in town. Controversial from the Táncsics Mihály utca 7. Map 1 A/B4. Habsburgs to imprison leaders
the dead of two outbreaks of Square, this cultural institute 1895. It occupies the site of outset, the design by the @ 16 from Deák tér, 16, 16A & 116 of the 1848–9 rebellion, includ
plague that struck the people houses an exhibition that Buda’s old defensive walls and Hungarian architect Béla Pintér from Széll Kálmán tér. Museum of ing Mihály Táncsics.
of Buda in 1691 and 1709. celebrates all manner of a medieval square where fish combines the historic remains Musical History: Tel (1) 214 67 70. Relics of Buda’s Jewish
The pedestal of the column Hungarian achievements in the was once sold. The bastion is of the site with con temporary Open 10am–4pm Tue–Sun. ∑ zti.hu heri tage can be found at Nos.
is decorated with bas-reliefs by arts, sciences, engineering and a purely aesthetic addition to materials and methods. 23 and 26. The remains of
Anton Hörger, depicting the sport. The building looks Castle Hill and boasts fine views From 1254 a Dominican Erdődy Palace was built in a 15thcentury synagogue
horrific fate Buda’s citi zens medieval but in fact was of the Danube. In front of it is church, to which a tower was 1750–69 for the Erdődy family stand in the garden of No. 23.
suffered during these only built in the early a statue of St István. later added, stood on this site, by Mátyás Nepauer, the leading During excavations, tombs and
epidemics. Further up the 20th century, in a followed by a late Baroque architect of the day. It features religious items were found in
ornate column are statues Jesuit monastery. The remains out standing Baroque façades the courtyard of No. 26.
Neo-Gothic style. The w Mátyás Church of both buildings are incorpor
Mátyás templom ated into the new hotel. The King István I
See pp66–7. ruins of the medieval church,
for example, uncovered during Born in Esztergom in 975, Vajk (Hero), the son
excavations in 1902, form part of Géza, was baptized at the age of 10 and
of the Dominican Court yard, chose the name István (Stephen). He succeeded
where concerts and operettas his father as Prince and in 1000 was
are staged in summer. crowned Catholic king of Hungary –
The main façade comprises the Vatican signalled its approval
part of the façade of the Jesuit by sending what became known
monastery. To the left of the as the crown of St István. A devout
entrance is St Nicholas’s Tower. man, István set about Christianizing
In 1930, a replica of a 15th Hungary, founding bishop rics,
century German basrelief of cathedrals and abbeys. He died in 1038,
King Mátyás, considered to be and was canonized by Pope Gregory VII
his most authentic likeness, as St István of Hungary in 1083.
Buda’s Old Town Hall, its clock tower crowned with an onion-shaped dome, on Holy Trinity Square was added to this tower.
For hotels and restaurants see pp264–269 and pp276–285
064-065_EW_Hungary.indd 64 18/09/17 3:39 pm 064-065_EW_Hungary.indd 65 18/09/17 3:39 pm
C ASTLE DISTRIC T 65
r András Hess
Square
Hess András tér
Map 1 B4. @ 16 from Deák tér, 16,
16A & 116 from Széll Kálmán tér.
This square is named after the
Italiantrained printer who
printed the first Hungarian
book, Chronica Hungarorum, in a
printing works at No. 4 in 1473.
The house was rebuilt at the The Museum of Musical History on Mihály
end of the 17th century, Táncsics Street
amalgamating three medieval
houses, with quadruple seat on three sides. Like many
niches, barrelvaulted cellars houses on this street, it was
and ornamen tal gates. erected on the ruins of medieval
The former inn at No. 3 was houses. In 1800, Ludwig van
named the Red Hedgehog in Beethoven, who was then
1696. This onefloor building giving concerts in Budapest,
has surviving Gothic and resided here for a short time.
Bas-relief depicting King Mátyás on the Baroque elements. The palace now houses the
Hilton Budapest Hotel’s façade The square also features a Museum of Musical History and
statue by József Damkó of Pope the Béla Bartók archives. A
e Hilton Budapest Innocent XI, who was involved permanent exhibition illustrates
in organizing the armies that musical life in Budapest from
Hotel
Hilton Szálloda recaptured Buda from the the 18th to 20th centuries, and
Turks. It was built to mark the includes some of the oldest
Hess András tér 1–3. Map 1 B4. Tel (1) 250th anniversary of the surviving Hungarian musical
889 66 00. @ 16 from Deák tér, 16, liberation, in 1936. instruments.
16A & 116 from Széll Kálmán tér. 7 The Royal Mint stood on the
t Mihály Táncsics site of No. 9 during the Middle
Built in 1976, the Hilton Buda Ages and, in 1810, the Joseph
pest Hotel is a rare example of Street Barracks were built here.
modern architecture in the old Táncsics Mihály utca These were later used by the
town. Controversial from the Táncsics Mihály utca 7. Map 1 A/B4. Habsburgs to imprison leaders
outset, the design by the @ 16 from Deák tér, 16, 16A & 116 of the 1848–9 rebellion, includ
Hungarian architect Béla Pintér from Széll Kálmán tér. Museum of ing Mihály Táncsics.
combines the historic remains Musical History: Tel (1) 214 67 70. Relics of Buda’s Jewish
of the site with con temporary Open 10am–4pm Tue–Sun. ∑ zti.hu heri tage can be found at Nos.
materials and methods. 23 and 26. The remains of
From 1254 a Dominican Erdődy Palace was built in a 15thcentury synagogue
church, to which a tower was 1750–69 for the Erdődy family stand in the garden of No. 23.
later added, stood on this site, by Mátyás Nepauer, the leading During excavations, tombs and
followed by a late Baroque architect of the day. It features religious items were found in
Jesuit monastery. The remains out standing Baroque façades the courtyard of No. 26.
of both buildings are incorpor
ated into the new hotel. The King István I
ruins of the medieval church,
for example, uncovered during Born in Esztergom in 975, Vajk (Hero), the son
excavations in 1902, form part of Géza, was baptized at the age of 10 and
of the Dominican Court yard, chose the name István (Stephen). He succeeded
where concerts and operettas his father as Prince and in 1000 was
are staged in summer. crowned Catholic king of Hungary –
The main façade comprises the Vatican signalled its approval
part of the façade of the Jesuit by sending what became known
monastery. To the left of the as the crown of St István. A devout
entrance is St Nicholas’s Tower. man, István set about Christianizing
In 1930, a replica of a 15th Hungary, founding bishop rics,
century German basrelief of cathedrals and abbeys. He died in 1038,
King Mátyás, considered to be and was canonized by Pope Gregory VII
his most authentic likeness, as St István of Hungary in 1083.
was added to this tower.
064-065_EW_Hungary.indd 65 18/09/17 3:39 pm
66 BUD APEST AREA B Y AREA C ASTLE DISTRIC T 67
w Mátyás Church . Tomb of King Béla III VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
and Anne de Châtillon
The Parish Church of Our Lady Mary was built The remains of this royal Practical Information
on this site between the 13th and 15th couple were transferred from Szentháromság tér 2. Map 1 B4.
Székesfehérvár Cathedral to
centuries. Some of the architectural style dates Mátyás Church in 1860. They lie Tel (20) 959 44 19. Open 9am–
from the reign of Sigismund of Luxembourg, beneath an ornamental stone 5pm Mon–Fri, 9am–1pm Sat,
1–5pm Sun (opening times
but the church’s name refers to King Mátyás canopy in the Trinity Chapel. may vary due to religious and
Corvinus, who greatly enlarged and embellished cultural events; call ahead to
it. Much of the original detail was lost when check). 7 &
the Turks converted the church into the Great Transport
Mosque in 1541. With the liberation of Buda, Rose Window @ 16 from Deák tér, 16, 16A &
modifications were made by the Jesuits as part Frigyes Schulek faithfully 116 from Széll Kálmán tér
of the restoration process, largely in the Baroque repro duced the medieval
stained-glass window that
style. The church again sustained damage in was in this position during Pulpit
1723, and was restored in the Neo-Gothic style the early Gothic era. The richly decorated
by Frigyes Schulek in 1873–96. The gallery pulpit includes the
carved stone figures
rooms house the Museum of Ecclesiastical Art. of the four Fathers of
the Church and the
four Evangelists.
Béla Tower
This tower is named after the
church’s founder, King Béla IV.
It has retained several of its
original Gothic features.
Stained-Glass Windows
Three arched windows
on the south elevation
have beautiful
19th-century stained
glass. They were
designed by Frigyes
Schulek, Berta lan
Székely and Károly Lotz.
. Mary Portal
This depiction of the Assumption of
the Blessed Virgin Mary is the most
. Baroque Madonna magnificent example of Gothic
According to legend, the stone carving in Hungary. Frigyes
original statue was set into a Schulek reconstructed the
wall of the church during the portal from fragments.
Turkish occupation. When that
wall was destroyed in 1686, the
Madonna miraculously c. 1370 Church 1464 Thanksgiving Mass 1686 After liberation Holy figures on
appeared. The Turks took this redesigned following the election of of Buda from Turkish the pulpit
as an omen of defeat. as Gothic Mátyás Corvinus as king rule, the church is 2014 Full
hall-church 1541 Turks restored with a reconstruction
under Louis I Baroque interior
convert church of the building
into a mosque completed
KEY Main Portal 1250 1350 1450 1550 1650 1750 1850 1950 2050
Below the arches of
1 The roof is decorated with the west entrance is a 1309 Coronation 1526 Cathedral 1896 Frigyes Schulek completes
multicoloured glazed tiles. 19th-century bas-relief of of the Angevin burned in the first the recon struction of the church 1970 Final details
attack by Turks
2 The main altar, created by the Virgin and Child king Charles Robert in the Neo-Gothic style are completed in
Frigyes Schulek, was based on between two angels. The 1255 Church originally 1470 Mátyás Tower postwar rebuilding
Gothic triptychs. pyrogranite ceramics founded by King Béla IV is completed after 1945 Church is severely damaged by programme
German and Russian armies
were made by Zsolnay. after the Mongol invasion its collapse in 1384
For hotels and restaurants see pp264–269 and pp276–285
066-067_EW_Hungary.indd 66 18/09/17 3:37 pm 066-067_EW_Hungary.indd 67 18/09/17 3:37 pm
C ASTLE DISTRIC T 67
. Tomb of King Béla III VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
and Anne de Châtillon
The remains of this royal Practical Information
couple were transferred from Szentháromság tér 2. Map 1 B4.
Székesfehérvár Cathedral to Tel (20) 959 44 19. Open 9am–
Mátyás Church in 1860. They lie 5pm Mon–Fri, 9am–1pm Sat,
beneath an ornamental stone 1–5pm Sun (opening times
canopy in the Trinity Chapel. may vary due to religious and
cultural events; call ahead to
check). 7 &
Transport
@ 16 from Deák tér, 16, 16A &
116 from Széll Kálmán tér
Pulpit
The richly decorated
pulpit includes the
carved stone figures
of the four Fathers of
the Church and the
four Evangelists.
Stained-Glass Windows
Three arched windows
on the south elevation
have beautiful
19th-century stained
glass. They were
designed by Frigyes
Schulek, Berta lan
Székely and Károly Lotz.
. Mary Portal
This depiction of the Assumption of
the Blessed Virgin Mary is the most
magnificent example of Gothic
stone carving in Hungary. Frigyes
Schulek reconstructed the
portal from fragments.
c. 1370 Church 1464 Thanksgiving Mass 1686 After liberation Holy figures on
redesigned following the election of of Buda from Turkish the pulpit
as Gothic Mátyás Corvinus as king rule, the church is 2014 Full
hall-church 1541 Turks restored with a reconstruction
under Louis I Baroque interior
convert church of the building
into a mosque completed
1250 1350 1450 1550 1650 1750 1850 1950 2050
1309 Coronation 1526 Cathedral 1896 Frigyes Schulek completes
of the Angevin burned in the first the recon struction of the church
king Charles Robert attack by Turks in the Neo-Gothic style 1970 Final details
are completed in
1255 Church originally 1470 Mátyás Tower postwar rebuilding
founded by King Béla IV is completed after 1945 Church is severely damaged by programme
after the Mongol invasion its collapse in 1384 German and Russian armies
066-067_EW_Hungary.indd 67 18/09/17 3:37 pm
68 BUD APEST AREA B Y AREA C ASTLE DISTRIC T 69
subse quently took possession much of their original medi eval s Hospital in
and during their time added a character. Almost all have some the Rock
Baroque church and a tower. remnant of a Gothic gate way Sziklakórház
After suffering serious air-raid or hall, while the façades are
damage in World War II, all but Baroque or NeoClassical. Lovas út 4/c. Map 1 A5. Tel (70)
the Franciscan tower and gate An excellent example of 701 01 01. @ 16 from Deák tér, 16,
were pulled down. These now a Gothic façade can be seen 16A & 116 from Széll Kálmán tér.
stand in a garden, together on Hölbling House at No. 31. Open 10am– 8pm daily. & 8
∑ sziklakorhaz.hu
with the reconstructed single Enough of its original features
Gothic window. survived the various wars and Connected to the network
renovations to enable archi tects of caves under Buda Castle,
to reconstruct the façade in the Hospital in the Rock is an
o Parliament Street considerable detail. The first atmospheric sight where
Vienna Gate, rebuilt in 1936, commemorating the liberation of Buda Országház utca floor window is a partic ularly visitors can learn about the
Map 1 A4–B4/5. splendid Gothic feature. The history of Hungary through
y Vienna Gate u Buda Lutheran houses opposite are also out the mid20th century.
This street was once inhabited examples of restoration work. In 1944–5 the caves were used
Square Church by the Florentine artisans and The façade of the Museum of The building at No. 53 was as an emergency military
Bécsi kapu tér Budavári Evangélikus templom craftsmen who were working Military History rebuilt between 1701 and 1722 hospital and airraid shelter,
Map 1 A4. @ 16 from Deák tér, 16, Táncsics Mihály utca 28. Map 1 A4. on King Mátyás’s Royal Palace p Museum of as a Franciscan monastery, providing treatment and refuge
16A & 116 from Széll Kálmán tér. Tel (1) 356 97 36. @ 16 from Deák (see pp58–9), and so it was but in 1789 it was restyled for for thousands of people during
tér, 16, 16A & 116 from Széll Kálmán known for a time as Italian Military History use by Emperor Joseph II. In the siege of Budapest. During
The square takes its name from tér. 7 Street. Its present name comes Hadtörténeti Múzeum 1795, Hungarian Jacobites, the revolution in 1956 it was
the gate that once led from the from the building at No. 28, led by Ignác Martinovics, were again used as a hospital. A
walled town of Buda towards The Neo-Classical Lutheran where the Hungarian State Kapisztrán tér 2–4, entrance from Tóth imprisoned here; a plaque nuclear bunker was added
Vienna. After being damaged Church was built in 1896 by Mór Parliament and Budapest Árpád sétány. Map 1 A4. Tel (1) 325 16 records this event. A well, during the Cold War, the
00. @ 16 from Deák tér, 16, 16A & 116
several times, the old gate was Kallina. A plaque commemorates High Court met from 1790 from Széll Kálmán tér. Open Apr–Sep: featuring a copy of a sculpture existence of which was only
demolished in 1896. The current the evan gelical pastor Gábor to 1807. This building was 10am–6pm Tue–Sun; Oct–Mar: 10am– by Praxiteles of Artemis, the made public in 2010.
gate, based on a historic Sztéhló, who saved some 2,000 designed in the 18th century 4pm Tue–Sun. 8 ∑ militaria.hu Greek goddess of hunting, was Many pieces of the original
design, was erected in 1936 on Jewish children and adults by the architect Franz Anton set in front of the house in 1873. medical equipment are on
the 250th anniversary of the during World War II. Hillebrandt as a convent for the The museum is located in a wing The Telephone Museum, display. There are present ations
liberation of Buda from the Turks. At one time, a painting by Poor Clares. However, Emperor of the former Palatine barracks. at No. 49, is housed in the on the history of the city,
The square has a number of Bertalan Székely, called Christ Joseph II dissolved the order It houses a wide range of military city’s first tele phone exchange, information on the 1956
interesting houses. Those at Blessing the Bread, adorned the before the building was items relating to the skirmishes established in 1881. It is an Revolution and the Cold War,
Nos. 5, 6, 7 and 8 were built on altar, but unfortunately it was completed. The Great Hall is and wars that have afflicted enjoyable interactive museum, along with wax figures, all
the ruins of medieval dwel lings. destroyed during the war. beautifully restored. Budapest from before the Turkish centred around a huge switch bringing this unique sight to
They are Baroque and Rococo in Numerous buildings on occu pation to the 20th century. board with exhibits on the life. The guided tour (approx.
design and feature sculptures i Church of Parliament Street have retained Uniforms, flags, weapons, maps history of telephony. 60 mins) is compulsory.
and bas-reliefs. The façade of Gothic and Baroque features. and ammu nition from as far
No. 7 has medallions with the St Mary Magdalene No. 2 Országház utca, now back as the 11th century give an
portraits of Classical philosophers Mária Magdolna templom with a Neo-Classical façade, insight into the long, turbulent
and poets; Thomas Mann, the Kapisztrán tér 6. Map 1 A4. @ 16 is the site of the Alabárdos history of Budapest.
German novelist, lodged here from Deák tér, 16, 16A & 116 from restaurant, but the building’s Of particular interest is
in 1935–6. No. 8, however, Széll Kálmán tér. history dates back to the the exhibition concerning the
is differentiated by its bay late 13th century. In the 1956 Revolution. Photographs
windows, attics and the restored Now in ruins, this church 15th century, Sigis mund illustrate the demonstrations
medieval murals on its façade. was built in the mid-13th of Luxem bourg built a that ended in a Soviet invasion,
On the left-hand side of century. During the Middle Gothic mansion here, and the execution of the prime
the square is a vast Neo- Ages, Hungarian Christians some details, such as the minister and a great number
Romanesque building with a worshipped here because colon nade around the of civilian deaths (see pp48–9).
beautiful multicoloured roof, Mátyás Church was only court yard and the murals
built in 1913–20 by Samu for use by the town’s on the second floor, have
Pecz. This building houses the German population. sur vived until today. The a Lords’ Street
National Archive, which holds The church did not entrance to No. 9 features Úri utca
documents dating from before become a mosque until the Gothic traceried Map1 A4 – B5. @ 16 from Deák
the battle of Mohács in 1526, the second half of seat niches that were tér, 16, 16A & 116 from Széll Kálmán
and others connected with the Turkish occu- popular in Buda at tér. Telephone Museum: Tel (30) 986
the Rákóczi and Kossuth pation, but it was this time. In front of 29 03. Open 10am–4pm Tue–Sun. &
uprisings (see pp44–5). severely damaged the Neo-Classical ∑ postamuzeum.hu
Behind the Vienna Gate in 1686, during house at No. 21
Square is a monument built in the liberation of stands a statue of The buildings in Lords’ Street, or
honour of Mihály Táncsics, the Buda from the the famous actor Úri utca, were destroyed first in
leader of the Autumn Uprising. Turks. An order of The reconstructed Baroque tower of Márton Lendvay 1686 and again in 1944. Recon
It was unveiled in 1970. Francis can monks the Church of St Mary Magdalene (1807–58). struction in 1950–60 restored Lords’ Street, or Úri utca, which runs the full length of the old town
For hotels and restaurants see pp264–269 and pp276–285
068-069_EW_Hungary.indd 68 18/09/17 3:39 pm 068-069_EW_Hungary.indd 69 18/09/17 3:39 pm
C ASTLE DISTRIC T 69
much of their original medi eval s Hospital in
character. Almost all have some the Rock
remnant of a Gothic gate way Sziklakórház
or hall, while the façades are
Baroque or NeoClassical. Lovas út 4/c. Map 1 A5. Tel (70)
An excellent example of 701 01 01. @ 16 from Deák tér, 16,
a Gothic façade can be seen 16A & 116 from Széll Kálmán tér.
on Hölbling House at No. 31. Open 10am– 8pm daily. & 8
∑ sziklakorhaz.hu
Enough of its original features
survived the various wars and Connected to the network
renovations to enable archi tects of caves under Buda Castle,
to reconstruct the façade in the Hospital in the Rock is an
considerable detail. The first atmospheric sight where
floor window is a partic ularly visitors can learn about the
splendid Gothic feature. The history of Hungary through
houses opposite are also out the mid20th century.
examples of restoration work. In 1944–5 the caves were used
The façade of the Museum of The building at No. 53 was as an emergency military
Military History rebuilt between 1701 and 1722 hospital and airraid shelter,
as a Franciscan monastery, providing treatment and refuge
p Museum of but in 1789 it was restyled for for thousands of people during
Military History use by Emperor Joseph II. In the siege of Budapest. During
Hadtörténeti Múzeum 1795, Hungarian Jacobites, the revolution in 1956 it was
led by Ignác Martinovics, were again used as a hospital. A
Kapisztrán tér 2–4, entrance from Tóth imprisoned here; a plaque nuclear bunker was added
Árpád sétány. Map 1 A4. Tel (1) 325 16 records this event. A well, during the Cold War, the
00. @ 16 from Deák tér, 16, 16A & 116 featuring a copy of a sculpture existence of which was only
from Széll Kálmán tér. Open Apr–Sep:
10am–6pm Tue–Sun; Oct–Mar: 10am– by Praxiteles of Artemis, the made public in 2010.
4pm Tue–Sun. 8 ∑ militaria.hu Greek goddess of hunting, was Many pieces of the original
set in front of the house in 1873. medical equipment are on
The museum is located in a wing The Telephone Museum, display. There are present ations
of the former Palatine barracks. at No. 49, is housed in the on the history of the city,
It houses a wide range of military city’s first tele phone exchange, information on the 1956
items relating to the skirmishes established in 1881. It is an Revolution and the Cold War,
and wars that have afflicted enjoyable interactive museum, along with wax figures, all
Budapest from before the Turkish centred around a huge switch bringing this unique sight to
occu pation to the 20th century. board with exhibits on the life. The guided tour (approx.
Uniforms, flags, weapons, maps history of telephony. 60 mins) is compulsory.
and ammu nition from as far
back as the 11th century give an
insight into the long, turbulent
history of Budapest.
Of particular interest is
the exhibition concerning the
1956 Revolution. Photographs
illustrate the demonstrations
that ended in a Soviet invasion,
the execution of the prime
minister and a great number
of civilian deaths (see pp48–9).
a Lords’ Street
Úri utca
Map1 A4 – B5. @ 16 from Deák
tér, 16, 16A & 116 from Széll Kálmán
tér. Telephone Museum: Tel (30) 986
29 03. Open 10am–4pm Tue–Sun. &
∑ postamuzeum.hu
The buildings in Lords’ Street, or
Úri utca, were destroyed first in
1686 and again in 1944. Recon
struction in 1950–60 restored Lords’ Street, or Úri utca, which runs the full length of the old town
068-069_EW_Hungary.indd 69 18/09/17 3:39 pm
BUD APEST AREA B Y AREA 71
GELLÉRT HILL AND TABÁN
Rising steeply beside the Danube, Gellért recalls the fate and martyrdom of Bishop
Hill is one of the city’s most attractive areas. Gellért, who tried to convert the unwilling
From the top, at a height of 140 m (460 ft), locals to Christianity. In 1046, they threw
a beautiful view of the whole of Budapest the bishop from the hill to his death in a
unfolds. The Celtic Eravi, who preceded the sealed barrel. Gellért Hill bulges out slightly
Romans, formed their settlement on the hill’s into the Danube, which narrows at this point.
northern slope (see p78). Once called simply This made the base of the hill a favoured
Old Hill, many superstitions and tales are crossing place, and the settlement of Tabán
connected with it. The hill’s present name evolved as a result.
Sights at a Glance
Museums
q Semmelweis Museum 6 Rudas Baths
of Medical History 9 Rác Thermal Spa
Churches Districts, Squares
2 Cave Church and Monuments
A L K O TÁ S U . . A L K O TÁ S U AT T I L A Ú Historic Buildings 5 Statue of St Gellért
0 Tabán Parish Church
3 Liberation Monument
LOGODI U.
LOGODI U.
7 Queen Elizabeth
4 Citadel
Monument
AT T I L A Ú T T
w Golden Stag House 8 Tabán
VÉRMEZŐ
VÉRMEZŐ LOGODI U.
Hotels and Baths
Déli pu.
LOGODI U.
Déli pu. 1 Gellért Hotel and Baths
KRISZTINA KÖRÚT
KRISZTINA KÖRÚT
MIKÓ U.
MIKÓ U. Complex pp74–5
KRISZTINAVÁROSVÁROS
KRISZTINA
ALAGÚT U.
ALAGÚT U.
KRISZTINA
KRISZTINA
TÉR
TÉR
KOSCIUSZKO T. U.
XII
KOSCIUSZKO T. U.
TIGRIS U.
PÁLYA U.
PÁLYA U. XII TIGRIS U. SARLÓ U.
MÉSZÁROS U.
MÉSZÁROS U.
SARLÓ U.
GYZŐ U.
GYZŐ U.
FENYŐ U.
RÓKA U.
RÓKA U. FENYŐ U. ORVOS U. DÓZSA LÁNCHÍD U.
ORVOS U.
DÓZSA
ATTILA Ú
ATTILA ÚT T
AVAR ÚT
AVAR ÚT
TÉR
LÁNCHÍD U.
NAPHEGY
NAPHEGY FÉM U. TÉR
FÉM U.
TÉR
NAPHEGY TÉR NAPHEGY U. T
NAPHEGY
TIBOR U.
TIBOR U. TIGRIS U. DEZSŐ U. LISZNYAI U. TABÁNABÁN DÖBRENTEI U. See also Street Finder
KRISZTINA KÖRÚT
KRISZTINA KÖRÚT
NAPHEGY U.
LISZNYAI U.
KERESZT U.
DEZSŐ U.
TIGRIS U.
DERÉK U.
DERÉK U. KERESZT U. maps 1, 3 & 4
DÖBRENTEI U.
GROZA PÉTER R.
GROZA PÉTER R.
ZSOLT U.
ZSOLT U.
Erzsébet
Erzsébet
HEGYALJA ÚT
HEGYALJA ÚT
ALADÁR U.
CZAKÓ U.
CZAKÓ U.
ALADÁR U. híd híd
HEGYALJA ÚT T SÁNC Ú OROM U.
HEGYALJA Ú
OROM U.
AVAR U.
MÉSZÁROS U.
AVAR U.
MÉSZÁROS U.
ALSÓHEGY U.
ALSÓHEGY U. BERÉNYI U. MIHÁLY U . U BÉRC U . . SZIRTES U RAOUL WALLENBERG RAKPART
BÉRC U
MIHÁLY .
SÁNC ÚT T
SZIRTES U
BERÉNYI U.
D a n u b e
D a n u b e
GYULA U. SZÁM A DÓ U. KOCSÁNY U
GYULA U.
GELLÉR
XI SOMLÓI ÚT IGLÓ I U. GELLÉRTT Petöfi híd híd
XI
SZÁM A DÓ U.
Petöfi
KOCSÁNY U . .
HEGY
HEGY
KELENHEGYI Ú
KELENHEGYI ÚT T
RAOUL WALLENBERG RAKPART
SOMLÓI ÚT
GOMBROCZ Z. U.
GOMBROCZ Z. U.
IGLÓ I U.
BAKATOR
BAKATOR U. U. KELENHEGYI ÚT R EZ E D A U. R EZ E D A U. PIPACS U. KEMENES U. Szent
PIPACS U.
Szent
MÉNESI U.
MÉNESI U.
Gellért tér
Gellért tér
MIN ERVA U
KEMENES U.
KELE NHEGYI Ú T
BARTÓK BÉLA ÚT
GELLÉR MIN ERVA U . . KELE NHEGYI Ú T ORLAY U.
GELLÉRTT
KELENHEGYI ÚT
ORLAY U.
BALOGH T. U. SOMLÓI Ú T T KELENHEGYI MÁNYO KI ÚT MÁNYO KI ÚT BARTÓK BÉLA ÚT
BALOGH T. U. SOMLÓI Ú
MÉNESI U. LÉPCS Ő
MÉNESI U.
KELENHEGYI LÉPCS Ő
B ALOGH T LEJTŐ XI
0 metres 300 XI HIMFY U. HIMFY U.
B ALOGH T LEJTŐ
Móricz
0 yards 300 Móricz
Zsigmond körtér
Zsigmond körtér
FADRUSZ U.VILLÁNYI ÚT
FADRUSZ U.VILLÁNYI ÚT
Stylized Classical statue and Secessionist mosaics at the Gellért Baths For keys to map symbols see back flap
Hun_070_071.indd 70 17/02/2015 12:57 Hun_070_071.indd 71 17/02/2015 12:57
BUD APEST AREA B Y AREA 71
GELLÉRT HILL AND TABÁN
Rising steeply beside the Danube, Gellért recalls the fate and martyrdom of Bishop
Hill is one of the city’s most attractive areas. Gellért, who tried to convert the unwilling
From the top, at a height of 140 m (460 ft), locals to Christianity. In 1046, they threw
a beautiful view of the whole of Budapest the bishop from the hill to his death in a
unfolds. The Celtic Eravi, who preceded the sealed barrel. Gellért Hill bulges out slightly
Romans, formed their settlement on the hill’s into the Danube, which narrows at this point.
northern slope (see p78). Once called simply This made the base of the hill a favoured
Old Hill, many superstitions and tales are crossing place, and the settlement of Tabán
connected with it. The hill’s present name evolved as a result.
Sights at a Glance
Museums
q Semmelweis Museum 6 Rudas Baths
of Medical History 9 Rác Thermal Spa
Churches Districts, Squares
2 Cave Church and Monuments
A L K O TÁ S U . AT T I L A Ú T Historic Buildings 5 Statue of St Gellért
0 Tabán Parish Church
3 Liberation Monument
LOGODI U.
7 Queen Elizabeth
4 Citadel
Monument
w Golden Stag House 8 Tabán
VÉRMEZŐ LOGODI U.
Hotels and Baths
Déli pu. 1 Gellért Hotel and Baths
KRISZTINA KÖRÚT
MIKÓ U. Complex pp74–5
KRISZTINAVÁROS
ALAGÚT U.
KRISZTINA
TÉR
KOSCIUSZKO T. U.
MÉSZÁROS U.
PÁLYA U. XII TIGRIS U. SARLÓ U.
GYZŐ U.
RÓKA U. FENYŐ U. ORVOS U. DÓZSA LÁNCHÍD U.
AVAR ÚT
ATTILA ÚT
NAPHEGY FÉM U. TÉR
NAPHEGY TÉR NAPHEGY U.
TIBOR U. TIGRIS U. DEZSŐ U. LISZNYAI U. TABÁN DÖBRENTEI U. See also Street Finder
KRISZTINA KÖRÚT
DERÉK U. KERESZT U. maps 1, 3 & 4
GROZA PÉTER R.
ZSOLT U.
Erzsébet
HEGYALJA ÚT
CZAKÓ U.
ALADÁR U. híd
HEGYALJA ÚT SÁNC ÚT OROM U.
AVAR U.
MÉSZÁROS U.
ALSÓHEGY U. BERÉNYI U. MIHÁLY U . BÉRC U . SZIRTES U RAOUL WALLENBERG RAKPART
D a n u b e
GYULA U. SZÁM A DÓ U. KOCSÁNY U .
XI SOMLÓI ÚT IGLÓ I U. GELLÉRT Petöfi híd
HEGY
KELENHEGYI ÚT
GOMBROCZ Z. U.
BAKATOR U. KELENHEGYI ÚT R EZ E D A U. PIPACS U. KEMENES U. Szent
MÉNESI U.
Gellért tér
GELLÉRT MIN ERVA U . KELE NHEGYI Ú T ORLAY U.
BALOGH T. U. SOMLÓI Ú T KELENHEGYI MÁNYO KI ÚT BARTÓK BÉLA ÚT
MÉNESI U. LÉPCS Ő
0 metres 300 XI HIMFY U.
B ALOGH T LEJTŐ
0 yards 300 Móricz
Zsigmond körtér
FADRUSZ U.VILLÁNYI ÚT
Stylized Classical statue and Secessionist mosaics at the Gellért Baths For keys to map symbols see back flap
Hun_070_071.indd 71 17/02/2015 12:57
72 BUD APEST AREA B Y AREA GELLÉR T HILL AND T ABÁN 73
Street-by-Street: Gellért Hill 6 Rudas Baths
These famous Turkish baths, which CASTLE
The hill to the south of Castle Hill was long regarded as a date from the 16th century, have DISTRICT
notorious spot. In the 11th century Prince Vata, brother of a characteristic Ottoman cupola. CENTRAL
PEST
King István, incited a heathen rebellion here that resulted GELLÉRT
in the death of Bishop Gellért. During the Middle Ages, HILL AND Danube
TABÁN
witches were even reputed to celebrate their sabbath
here. Under the Turks, a small strong hold was first
built on the hill to protect Buda. In 1851, the Locator Map
Austrians placed their own bleak and intimidating See Street Finder map 3
Citadel at the summit. Not until the end of the
19th century did the popular image of Gellért Hill
begin to change, when it became a venue for
picnicking parties. In 1967, the area around the 7 Queen Elizabeth Monument The Reservoir
Citadel was made into an attractive park. Close to the entrance to Elizabeth Bridge In 1978, a new reservoir
stands this statue of Austrian Emperor The Observation Terraces on Gellért Hill reward those to supply the capital with
Franz Joseph’s wife, who was popular who climb up to them with a beautiful panorama over drinking water was built near
with the Hungarians. Elizabeth the southern part of Buda and the whole of Pest. the Uránia Obser va tory to
Bridge the northwest of Gellért Hill.
The surface of the reservoir is
covered over and provides a
point from which to observe
the Royal Palace (see pp58–9)
5 . Statue of to the north. A sculpture by
St Gellért H E G Y A L I A Ú T Márta Lesenyei decorates
Blessing the city with the structure.
his uplifted cross,
the martyred Bishop
Gellért is known as
the patron saint
of Budapest.
2 Cave Church
This church was established in 1926
in a holy grotto. Under the Commu
nists, the Pauline order of monks
was forced to abandon the church, Sculpture by Márta Lesenyei
S on Gellért Hill’s reservoir
but it was reopened in 1989.
Z
E
N
4 Citadel T G E L L É R
Once a place to inspire terror, the Citadel T R Liberty
is currently closed due to a legal debate. Bridge
However, visitors can still walk up to the old
walls and enjoy the splendid view. A K P A R T
Key
Suggested route
1 . Gellért Hotel and
3 Liberation Monument Baths Complex
At the foot of the Liberation One of a number of bath complexes
Monument, towering above built at the beginning of the
the city, are two sculp- 20th century, this magnificent
tures, one representing 0 metres 500 spa hotel was erected here to
the battle with evil. 0 yards 500 exploit the natural hot springs.
For hotels and restaurants see pp264–269 and pp276–285
072-073_EW_Hungary.indd 72 18/09/17 3:39 pm 072-073_EW_Hungary.indd 73 18/09/17 3:39 pm
GELLÉR T HILL AND T ABÁN 73
6 Rudas Baths
These famous Turkish baths, which CASTLE
date from the 16th century, have DISTRICT
a characteristic Ottoman cupola. CENTRAL
PEST
GELLÉRT
HILL AND
TABÁN Danube
Locator Map
See Street Finder map 3
The Reservoir
In 1978, a new reservoir
The Observation Terraces on Gellért Hill reward those to supply the capital with
who climb up to them with a beautiful panorama over drinking water was built near
the southern part of Buda and the whole of Pest. the Uránia Obser va tory to
the northwest of Gellért Hill.
The surface of the reservoir is
covered over and provides a
point from which to observe
the Royal Palace (see pp58–9)
to the north. A sculpture by
Márta Lesenyei decorates
the structure.
2 Cave Church
This church was established in 1926
in a holy grotto. Under the Commu
nists, the Pauline order of monks
was forced to abandon the church, Sculpture by Márta Lesenyei
S on Gellért Hill’s reservoir
but it was reopened in 1989.
Z
E
N T G E L L É R
Liberty
Bridge
T R
A K P A R T
1 . Gellért Hotel and
Baths Complex
One of a number of bath complexes
built at the beginning of the
20th century, this magnificent
spa hotel was erected here to
exploit the natural hot springs.
072-073_EW_Hungary.indd 73 18/09/17 3:39 pm
74 BUD APEST AREA B Y AREA GELLÉR T HILL AND T ABÁN 75
1 Gellért Hotel and Baths Complex Sun Terraces
Situated in the sunniest VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
spot, these terraces are
Between 1912 and 1918, this hotel and spa was built in a popular place for Practical Information
the modernist Secession style (see p87) at the foot of drying off in summer. Szent Gellért tér. Map 4 D3.
Gellért Hill. The architects of the hotel were Ármin Tel (1) 466 61 66. ^ 7 -
0 = Baths: Kelenhegyi út 4.
Hegedűs, Artúr Sebestyén and Izidor Sterk. The earliest Open 6am–8pm daily. & ^
reference to the existence of healing waters at this spot 7 ∑ budapestspas.hu
dates from the 13th century. During the reign of King Transport
András II and in the Middle Ages a hospital stood on the q Szent Gellért tér. @ 7.
site. Baths built here by the Ottomans were mentioned v 19, 41, 47, 49, 56.
by the renowned Turkish travel writer of the day, Evliya
Çelebi. Severely damaged in 1945, the hotel was restored
and modernized after World War II. Today it has several Outdoor Wave Pool
An early swimming pool with a
restaurants and cafés. The baths complex includes an wave mechanism, built in 1927,
institute of water therapy, set within Secession interiors is situated at the back of the
but with modern facilities. complex, looking towards
Gellért Hill behind.
. Baths
Two separate baths, one for Eastern-Style Towers
men and one for women, The architects who designed
are identically arranged. the hotel gave its towers and
In each there are three turrets a characteristically
plunge pools, with water at Oriental cylindrical form.
different temperatures, a
sauna and a steam bath.
Main Staircase
The landings of the
main staircase have
stained-glass windows
by Bozó Stanisits,
added in 1933. They
illustrate an ancient
Hungarian legend
about a magic stag,
recorded in the poetry
of János Arany.
Balconies
The balconies fronting the hotel’s rooms
have fanciful Secession balustrades that are
decorated with lyre and bird motifs.
Restaurant Terrace
From this first-floor terrace, diners can
appreciate a fine view of Pest. On the
. Entrance Hall ground and first floors of the hotel there
KEY The interiors of the hotel, like . Main Façade is a total of four cafés and restaurants.
the baths, have kept their Behind the hotel’s imposing façade are attractive
1 Hot pool with medicinal original Secession decor, with recreational facilities and a health spa that is also open
spa water elaborate mosaics, stained- to non-guests. The entrance to the baths is around to
glass windows and statues. the right from the main entrance, on Kelenhegyi út.
For hotels and restaurants see pp264–269 and pp276–285
074-075_EW_Hungary.indd 74 18/09/17 3:39 pm 074-075_EW_Hungary.indd 75 18/09/17 3:39 pm
GELLÉR T HILL AND T ABÁN 75
Sun Terraces
Situated in the sunniest VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
spot, these terraces are
a popular place for Practical Information
drying off in summer. Szent Gellért tér. Map 4 D3.
Tel (1) 466 61 66. ^ 7 -
0 = Baths: Kelenhegyi út 4.
Open 6am–8pm daily. & ^
7 ∑ budapestspas.hu
Transport
q Szent Gellért tér. @ 7.
v 19, 41, 47, 49, 56.
Eastern-Style Towers
The architects who designed
the hotel gave its towers and
turrets a characteristically
Oriental cylindrical form.
Main Staircase
The landings of the
main staircase have
stained-glass windows
by Bozó Stanisits,
added in 1933. They
illustrate an ancient
Hungarian legend
about a magic stag,
recorded in the poetry
of János Arany.
Restaurant Terrace
From this first-floor terrace, diners can
appreciate a fine view of Pest. On the
ground and first floors of the hotel there
. Main Façade is a total of four cafés and restaurants.
Behind the hotel’s imposing façade are attractive
recreational facilities and a health spa that is also open
to non-guests. The entrance to the baths is around to
the right from the main entrance, on Kelenhegyi út.
074-075_EW_Hungary.indd 75 18/09/17 3:39 pm
76 BUD APEST AREA B Y AREA GELLÉR T HILL AND T ABÁN 77
The monument’s central After much debate in the early
figure is a woman standing 1960s, the Citadel became a
on a pedestal, reaching a leisure complex. A restaurant,
height of 14 m (46 ft). At the a hotel and a nightclub here
base of the monument there used to tempt cust omers up
are two allegorical compositions, Gellért Hill, but are now closed,
representing progress and the with no information available
battle with evil. on when, or whether, they will
The arrival of the Russians in reopen. However, the walk up
Budapest was a liberation, but to the old walls of the Citadel
it also signalled the beginning is rewarded with spectacular
of Soviet rule. After the fall views of the entire city below.
of Commu nism, a figure of a
Russian soldier was removed 5 Statue of St Gellért
from the monument to The main plunge pool at the Rudas Baths, covered by a Turkish cupola
Memento Park (see p116). Szent Gellért emlékmű
Entrance to the Cave Church, run by the Pauline order of monks Map 3 C2. @ 27 (and a long walk; go a Hungarian convert to 6 Rudas Baths
4 Citadel via the steps by Elizabeth Bridge). Christianity kneels at his feet. Rudas Gyógyfürdő
2 Cave Church the liberation of Budapest The statue was designed Döbrentei tér 9. Map 3 C2. Tel (1) 356
Sziklatemplom by the Russian army in 1947 Citadella In 1904 a vast monument was by Gyula Jankovits; the semi- 13 22. Spa Baths: Open (men only)
(see pp48–9). The monument Map 3 C2. @ 27. established on the spot where, circular colonnade behind it 6am–8pm Mon, Wed–Fri; (women
Szent Gellért rakpart 1. Map 4 D3. was originally intended to in the 11th century, Bishop is by Imre Francsek. A spring only) 6am–8pm Tue; (mixed) 10pm–
q Szent Gellért tér. @ 7, 86. v 19, honour the memory of István, After the suppression of the Gellért was said to have been that bubbles up here was 4am Fri, 6am–8pm, 10pm–4am Sat,
41, 47, 49, 56. Tel (1) 385 15 29. son of the Hungarian Regent uprising of 1848–9 (see pp46–7), thrown off the hill in a sealed used to create the fountain. 6am–7pm Sun. Swimming pool:
Open 9am–8pm daily. & Miklós Horthy, who disappeared the Habsburgs constructed a barrel, by a mob opposed to Overlooking the Elizabeth Open 6am–6pm Mon–Fri, 6am–5pm
in 1943 on the Eastern Front. fortification on this strate g- the adoption of Christianity. Bridge, the larger-than-life Sat & Sun. ∑ rudasfurdo.hu
Based on Lourdes, this grotto However, after the liberation ically important site. Built in St Gellért holds a cross in monument of the bishop can
church on the southern slope of the city by Russian troops, 1850–54, the Citadel housed his outstretched hand, and be seen from all over the city. Dating originally from 1550, these
of Gellért Hill was established Marshal Kliment Voroshilov 60 cannons, which could, in baths were greatly extended
in 1926 by Kálmán Lux for the spotted the work in the theory, fire on the city at any in 1566 by Sokoli Mustafa, an
Pauline order of monks, which sculptor’s workshop and time. In reality, from its very Ottoman pasha. The main part
originated in Hungary in the reassigned it to this purpose. inception the Citadel did not of the baths, which comprises an
13th century. The church was fulfil any real military require- octagonal plunge pool and four
sealed in the late 1950s by the ments, but served rather small corner pools with water of
Com munist authorities, but it as a means of intimidating varying temperatures, dates from
and the adjoining monastery the population. this period.
were reopened in 1989, when The Citadel is some 220 m In recent years the baths have
a papal blessing was conferred (720 ft) long by 60 m (200 ft) been extensively mod ernized
on its new granite altar. wide, and has 4-m- (12-ft-) and now include a covered
To the left of the grotto is a high walls. After peace was swimming pool. This pool is
copy of the Black Madonna of agreed with the Habsburgs, for mixed bathing.
Czestochowa and a depiction Hungarians continually
of a Polish eagle. A painting demanded the destruction
commemorates the Polish of the Citadel but it was not 7 Queen Elizabeth
monk St Kolbe, who died help- until 1897 that the Austrian Monument
ing inmates at Auschwitz. At soldiers left their barracks here
the entrance stands a statue of The Liberation Monument, standing and a section of its entrance Erzsébet királyné szobra
St István. In the monastery, Béla at the top of Gellért Hill was symbolically ripped out. Döbrentei tér. Map 3 C1/2.
Ferenc’s exquisite wooden
sculptures are worth seeing. This monument to Queen
Saint Gellért Elizabeth, wife of Habsburg
3 Liberation Bishop Gellért was born Giorgio di Sagredo, near Bologna, Italy, Emperor and king of Hungary
Franz Joseph, was created by
Monument around 980. He became a Benedictine monk and György Zala. The statue was
made a pilgrimage to the Holy Land, where he
Felszabadulási emlékmű met the Raslan, Abbot of Pannonhalma erected in its present location
Map 4 D2. @ 27. Abbey (see pp180–81), who invited him in 1986. It stands close to the
to Hun gary. After a period preaching in Elizabeth Bridge, which was
Positioned high on Gellért Hill, pagan areas of the country, he was asked also named after the empress
this imposing monument by King St István to tutor his son, Prince and queen, who showed great
towers over the rest of the Imre. István later made him a Bishop. Gellért friend ship to the Hun garians.
city. It was designed by the was killed in 1046 during a pagan revolt – The statue stood on the opposite
outstanding Hungarian sculptor sealed in a barrel, he was thrown off the hill A hotel window side of the river from 1932 until
Zsigmond Kisfaludi Strobl and that today takes his name, Gellért Hill. depicting St Gellért 1947, when the Communists
set up here to commemorate The landmark Gellért Monument, overlooking the Elizabeth Bridge ordered it to be taken down.
For hotels and restaurants see pp264–269 and pp276–285
076-077_EW_Hungary.indd 76 18/09/17 3:39 pm 076-077_EW_Hungary.indd 77 18/09/17 3:39 pm
GELLÉR T HILL AND T ABÁN 77
After much debate in the early
1960s, the Citadel became a
leisure complex. A restaurant,
a hotel and a nightclub here
used to tempt cust omers up
Gellért Hill, but are now closed,
with no information available
on when, or whether, they will
reopen. However, the walk up
to the old walls of the Citadel
is rewarded with spectacular
views of the entire city below.
5 Statue of St Gellért The main plunge pool at the Rudas Baths, covered by a Turkish cupola
Szent Gellért emlékmű
Map 3 C2. @ 27 (and a long walk; go a Hungarian convert to 6 Rudas Baths
via the steps by Elizabeth Bridge). Christianity kneels at his feet. Rudas Gyógyfürdő
The statue was designed Döbrentei tér 9. Map 3 C2. Tel (1) 356
In 1904 a vast monument was by Gyula Jankovits; the semi- 13 22. Spa Baths: Open (men only)
established on the spot where, circular colonnade behind it 6am–8pm Mon, Wed–Fri; (women
in the 11th century, Bishop is by Imre Francsek. A spring only) 6am–8pm Tue; (mixed) 10pm–
Gellért was said to have been that bubbles up here was 4am Fri, 6am–8pm, 10pm–4am Sat,
thrown off the hill in a sealed used to create the fountain. 6am–7pm Sun. Swimming pool:
barrel, by a mob opposed to Overlooking the Elizabeth Open 6am–6pm Mon–Fri, 6am–5pm
the adoption of Christianity. Bridge, the larger-than-life Sat & Sun. ∑ rudasfurdo.hu
St Gellért holds a cross in monument of the bishop can
his outstretched hand, and be seen from all over the city. Dating originally from 1550, these
baths were greatly extended
in 1566 by Sokoli Mustafa, an
Ottoman pasha. The main part
of the baths, which comprises an
octagonal plunge pool and four
small corner pools with water of
varying temperatures, dates from
this period.
In recent years the baths have
been extensively mod ernized
and now include a covered
swimming pool. This pool is
for mixed bathing.
7 Queen Elizabeth
Monument
Erzsébet királyné szobra
Döbrentei tér. Map 3 C1/2.
This monument to Queen
Elizabeth, wife of Habsburg
Emperor and king of Hungary
Franz Joseph, was created by
György Zala. The statue was
erected in its present location
in 1986. It stands close to the
Elizabeth Bridge, which was
also named after the empress
and queen, who showed great
friend ship to the Hun garians.
The statue stood on the opposite
side of the river from 1932 until
1947, when the Communists
The landmark Gellért Monument, overlooking the Elizabeth Bridge ordered it to be taken down.
076-077_EW_Hungary.indd 77 18/09/17 3:39 pm
78 BUD APEST AREA B Y AREA GELLÉR T HILL AND T ABÁN 79
8 Tabán Eravi were the first to make a In the late 17th century, a 9 Rác Thermal Spa
Map 3 B/C1. v 18, 19. @ 5, 112. settlement here, while the large number of Serbs, referred Rác Gyógyfürdő
Romans later built a watch to in Hungarian as Rác, moved Hadnagy utca 8–10. Map 3 C2. v 18,
The Tabán now consists of tower from which they could into the Tabán after fleeing 19. Closed until further notice.
a pleasant park and a few observe people using a nearby from the Turks. They were
historic buildings, but it was crossing point over the river. joined by Greeks and Gypsies. The Rác Spa dates from 1550
once very different. In the The first reference to the Many of the inhabitants of and boasts an original thermal
early 20th century this dis trict, thermal waters in Tabán dates the Tabán at this stage were Turkish pool, a hammam bath
nestling in between Castle from the 15th century. The tanners or made their living on and a historical dome. This
Hill and Gellért Hill, was a slum Turks took advantage of this the river. On the hillside above, significant piece of heritage is
which was cleared as part natural asset and built two grapevines were cultivated. In now privately owned, and has
of a city improvement pro magnificent baths here, the the early 20th century, though been renovated with a fivestar The History of Healing: permanent exhibition at Semmelweis Museum of Medical History
gramme. Only a few buildings Rác Baths and the Rudas picturesque, the district was luxury hotel adjoining it, with
survived, inclu ding Tabán Baths (see p77). Around them still without proper sanitation. modern facilities for guests and now in the Budapest History of a 19thcentury pharmacy.
Parish Church. a blossoming town was soon The old, decaying Tabán, visitors to indulge in the latest Museum (see p60). The nave Semmelweis’s surgery can
Natural conditions ensured established. Apart from the with its bars and gambling spa treatments. Unfortunately, and side chapels are Baroque; also be seen with its original
that this was one of the first baths, virtually everything dens, was demolished the opening of the hotel and the altar, pulpit and several furniture. In the courtyard
places in the area where was destroyed in the recapture and the present green space thermal spa complex has been paintings adorning the walls stands a monument called
people chose to live. The Celtic of Buda in 1686. established in its place. delayed by unresolved all date from the 19th century. Motherhood by Miklós Borsos.
financial issues. The church hosts regular The museum joined the
organ concerts. Hungarian National Museum
A statue of Miklós Ybl, in February 2017, thus
the 19thcentury architect, becoming a department
was erected here in 1894. It was q Semmelweis of the institution.
designed by Ede Mayer. Museum of Medical
History 9 Várkert Bazár
Semmelweis Orvostörténeti
Múzeum Várbazár
Ybl Miklós tér 6. Map 4 D1.
Apród utca 1–3. Map 3 C1. Tel (1) 375 Tel (06 1) 225 05 54. @ 16, 86, 105.
35 33. v 18, 19. Open MidMar–Oct: v 19. Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun.
10:30am–6pm Tue–Sun; Sep–mid ∑ varkertbazar.hu/en
Mar: 10:30am–4pm Tue–Sun. & 8
^ ∑ semmelweis.museum.hu
Turkish bath area, Rác Thermal Spa Designed by Miklós Ybl,
Y
B
Gardens with terraces, L This museum is located in the the Várkert Bazár and the
decorative stairways and 18thcentury house where ornamental garden that it
M
arcades designed by Miklós I 0 Tabán Parish Dr Ignáz Semmelweis was born houses have been popular
Ybl were established in Tabán L Church in 1818. He is renowned for landmarks ever since they
K
to connect the Royal Palace Ó his discovery of the cause and opened in 1883. Considered
(see pp58–9) with the banks S Tabáni plébánia templom cure for puerperal fever, a fatal to be the greatest examples
of the Danube. T Attila út 11. Map 3 C1. Tel (1) 375 54 condition frequently contracted of the Hungarian Romantic
É
91. v 18, 19. by women during or shortly style of architecture, the venue
R
after childbirth. became one of the city’s best
A temple is thought to have The history of medicine clubs during the 20th century.
stood on this site even in the from ancient Egypt onwards It was finally closed for renov
D
reign of Prince Árpád. In the Mid is portrayed in the museum, ations in 1984, and reopened as
Ö
A B
C R dle Ages a church was built here, which includes the replica a public cultural space in 2014.
T E which was con verted to a
U N T mosque by the Turks and
Á R P Á D E I U subsequently destroyed. In Raoul Wallenberg
1728–36, after the Habsburgs
The celebrated Swedish diplomat
had taken control of the city, Raoul Wallenberg saved more than 7,000
T
C
a new church was erected to a
A Hungarian Jews from deportation. Born in
design by Keresztély Ober gruber. Sweden in 1912, Wallen berg was assigned
Mátyás Nepauer added the to the Swedish Embassy in Budapest
tower in 1750–53. In 1881 the in 1944 and immediately began
G R O Z A P É T E R R A K P A R T
façade was extended and certifying Jews threatened with
the tower was crowned by deportation as Swedish subjects
Golden Stag House a fine NeoBaroque dome. awaiting repatriation. Arrested (as
a US spy) by the Soviet Army in 1945,
Several Ottoman tombstones Inside the church, on the Wallenberg was taken to Moscow and
stand here. They are the rem righthand side under the probably executed in 1947. He is honoured
nants of a cemetery in which choir gallery, is a copy of a in Budapest with a statue depicting a man Bas-relief of Raoul
the Turks who died defending 0 metres 150 12thcentury carving entitled slaying a snake. Wallenberg
Buda in 1686 were buried. 0 yards 150 Christ of Tabán; the original is
For hotels and restaurants see pp264–269 and pp276–285
078-079_EW_Hungary.indd 78 18/09/17 3:37 pm 078-079_EW_Hungary.indd 79 18/09/17 3:37 pm
GELLÉR T HILL AND T ABÁN 79
9 Rác Thermal Spa
Rác Gyógyfürdő
Hadnagy utca 8–10. Map 3 C2. v 18,
19. Closed until further notice.
The Rác Spa dates from 1550
and boasts an original thermal
Turkish pool, a hammam bath
and a historical dome. This
significant piece of heritage is
now privately owned, and has
been renovated with a fivestar The History of Healing: permanent exhibition at Semmelweis Museum of Medical History
luxury hotel adjoining it, with
modern facilities for guests and now in the Budapest History of a 19thcentury pharmacy.
visitors to indulge in the latest Museum (see p60). The nave Semmelweis’s surgery can
spa treatments. Unfortunately, and side chapels are Baroque; also be seen with its original
the opening of the hotel and the altar, pulpit and several furniture. In the courtyard
thermal spa complex has been paintings adorning the walls stands a monument called
delayed by unresolved all date from the 19th century. Motherhood by Miklós Borsos.
financial issues. The church hosts regular The museum joined the
organ concerts. Hungarian National Museum
in February 2017, thus
q Semmelweis becoming a department
Museum of Medical of the institution.
History 9 Várkert Bazár
Semmelweis Orvostörténeti
Múzeum Várbazár
Ybl Miklós tér 6. Map 4 D1.
Apród utca 1–3. Map 3 C1. Tel (1) 375 Tel (06 1) 225 05 54. @ 16, 86, 105.
35 33. v 18, 19. Open MidMar–Oct: v 19. Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun.
10:30am–6pm Tue–Sun; Sep–mid ∑ varkertbazar.hu/en
Mar: 10:30am–4pm Tue–Sun. & 8
^ ∑ semmelweis.museum.hu
Turkish bath area, Rác Thermal Spa Designed by Miklós Ybl,
This museum is located in the the Várkert Bazár and the
18thcentury house where ornamental garden that it
0 Tabán Parish Dr Ignáz Semmelweis was born houses have been popular
Church in 1818. He is renowned for landmarks ever since they
Tabáni plébánia templom his discovery of the cause and opened in 1883. Considered
cure for puerperal fever, a fatal to be the greatest examples
Attila út 11. Map 3 C1. Tel (1) 375 54 condition frequently contracted of the Hungarian Romantic
91. v 18, 19. by women during or shortly style of architecture, the venue
after childbirth. became one of the city’s best
A temple is thought to have The history of medicine clubs during the 20th century.
stood on this site even in the from ancient Egypt onwards It was finally closed for renov
reign of Prince Árpád. In the Mid is portrayed in the museum, ations in 1984, and reopened as
dle Ages a church was built here, which includes the replica a public cultural space in 2014.
which was con verted to a
mosque by the Turks and Raoul Wallenberg
subsequently destroyed. In
1728–36, after the Habsburgs The celebrated Swedish diplomat
had taken control of the city, Raoul Wallenberg saved more than 7,000
a new church was erected to a Hungarian Jews from deportation. Born in
design by Keresztély Ober gruber. Sweden in 1912, Wallen berg was assigned
Mátyás Nepauer added the to the Swedish Embassy in Budapest
tower in 1750–53. In 1881 the in 1944 and immediately began
façade was extended and certifying Jews threatened with
the tower was crowned by deportation as Swedish subjects
awaiting repatriation. Arrested (as
a fine NeoBaroque dome. a US spy) by the Soviet Army in 1945,
Inside the church, on the Wallenberg was taken to Moscow and
righthand side under the probably executed in 1947. He is honoured
choir gallery, is a copy of a in Budapest with a statue depicting a man Bas-relief of Raoul
12thcentury carving entitled slaying a snake. Wallenberg
Christ of Tabán; the original is
078-079_EW_Hungary.indd 79 18/09/17 3:37 pm
BUD APEST AREA B Y AREA 81
AROUND PARLIAMENT
Towards the end of the 18th century development. The medieval walls that
and throughout the 19th century, Pest originally marked Pest’s limits were crossed
underwent a series of huge changes. In as the area expanded and was urbanized.
1838 a flood destroyed most of the rural This period produced some of the most
dwellings that had occupied the area. important buildings in Hungary, including
The Chain Bridge, the city’s first permanent St Stephen’s Basilica, Parliament and the
Danube crossing, was built in 1839–49. Hungarian Academy of Science. Many
The unification of Budapest in 1873 and Neo-Classical residences were also built,
the 1,000-year anniversary, in 1896, of the particularly on Nádor utca, Akadémia
Magyar conquest also boosted the city’s utca and Október 6 utca.
Sights at a Glance
Historic Buildings and Palaces Theatres Squares
1 Parliament pp84–5 9 State Opera House pp92–3 4 Liberty Square
3 Ministry of Agriculture q Budapest Operetta Theatre 5 Széchenyi Square
6 Gresham Palace Museums Churches
7 Hungarian Academy of Sciences 2 Museum of Ethnography 8 St Stephen’s Basilica pp90–91
0 Drechsler Palace
w Radisson Blu Béke Hotel
KATONA JÓZSEF U.
KATONA JÓZSEF U.
VISEGRÁDI U.
SZÉCHENYI RAKPART
SZÉCHENYI RAKPART Ú J P E S T I U . . Ú J P E S T I U MARI FALK MIKSA U. FALK MIKSA U. SZENT ISTVÁN KÖRÚ VISEGRÁDI U. KÁDÁR U. VÁCI ÚT See also Street Finder
MARI
TÉR
TÉR
VÁCI ÚT
BALASSI BÁLINT U.
BALASSI BÁLINT U.
SZENT ISTVÁN KÖRÚT T
KÁDÁR U.
BALATON U.
BALATON U.
maps 1 & 2
Nyugati
Nyugati
NYUGATITI
HONVÉD
Pu.
Pu.
HONVÉD .
SZEMERE U. SZEMERE U STOLLÁR B. U. BIHARI J. U. . BIHARI J. U NYUGA PODMANIECZKY UTCA
TÉR
TÉR
STOLLÁR B. U.
TÉR
TÉR
NAGY IGNÁC U.
NAGY IGNÁC U.
PODMANIECZKY UTCA
MARKÓ U.
MARKÓ U.
MARKÓ U.
MARKÓ U.
SZONDI U.
VI
SZALAY U.
SZALAY U.
WEINER LEÓ U.
A L K O T M Á N Y U . .
A L K O T M Á N Y U VI SZONDI U. EÖTVÖS U.
EÖTVÖS U.
VAJKAY U.
VAJKAY U.
LIP
KOSSUTH LIPÓTVÁROSÓTVÁROS WEINER LEÓ U.
KOSSUTH
LOVAG U.
LAJOS
LAJOS T E R É Z K Ö R Ú
K Á L M Á N I M R E U . .
TÉR
TÉR KOZMAF. U. KOZMAF. U. K Á L M Á N I M R E U LOVAG U. JÓKAI U. ARADI U.
ARADI U.
D a n u b e D a n u b e Kossuth VÉRTANÚKVÉRTANÚK H O N V É D U B ÁT H O R Y U . . BAJCSY-ZSILINS NAGYMEZŐ U. DESSEWFFY U. Ó U. Ó U. Oktogon
ZICHY JENŐ U.
ZICHY JENŐ U.
T E R É Z K Ö R Ú T T
B ÁT H O R Y U
DESSEWFFY U. JÓKAI U.
Kossuth
TERE
TERE
H O N V É D U . .
Oktogon
Lajos tér
Lajos tér
TERÉZVÁROSÉZVÁROS
NAGYMEZŐ U.
MOZSÁR U. JÓKAI
DESSEWFFY U.
TÉR
TÉR
NAGYSÁNDOR TER MOZSÁR U. JÓKAI
VADÁSH U.
VADÁSH U.
J. U.
ZOLTÁN U. J. U. DESSEWFFY U.
ZICHY JENŐ U.
GARIBALDI U. N Á D
KISS E.
V V KISS E. HOLD U. NAGYSÁNDOR ZKY ÚT ZICHY JENŐ U. HAJÓS U.
U. U.
ZOLTÁN U. O R U
STEINDL I.
STEINDL I. SZABADSÁG B A N K U . PODMANICZKY
SZABADSÁG
GARIBALDI U. N Á D O R U . .
BAJCSY-ZSILINSZKY ÚT
PODMANICZKY
TÉR
HOLD U.
HAJÓS U.
TÉR
B A N K U .
TÉR
TÉR
Opera
SZÉCHENYI U.
SZÉCHENYI U. Arany J. u. Ó U. Ó U. Opera
LÁZÁR U.
Arany J. u.
A R A N Y J Á N O S U . LÁZÁR U.
U.
U.
A K A D É M I A U
A K A D É M I A U . .
TÜKÖRY
TÜKÖRY
A N D R Á S S Y Ú
RÉVAY U.
RÉVAY U.
SZÉCHENYI RAKPART
SZÉCHENYI RAKPART
VIGYÁZÓ F .U. NÁDO A R A N Y J Á N O S U . HERCEGPRÍMÁS A N D R Á S S Y Ú T T 0 metres 500
SAS U.
SAS U.
SZENT
SZENT
HERCEGPRÍMÁS
NÁDOR U.
VIGYÁZÓ F .U.R U.
ISTV
ISTVÁNÁN 0 yards 500
TÉR
ZRÍNYI U . . TÉR
ZRÍNYI U
SZÉCHENYI
SZÉCHENYI
ISTVÁNÁN
ISTV
TÉR Bajcsy-Zs. út
Bajcsy-Zs. út
TÉR
OKTÓBER 6 U.
OKTÓBER 6 U.
MÉRLEG U.
MÉRLEG U.
J Ó Z S E F AT T I L A U
J Ó Z S E F AT T I L A U . .
Magnificent Neo-Gothic craftsmanship in the Hungarian Parliament building For keys to map symbols see back flap
Hun_080-081_intro.indd 80 17/02/2015 12:57 Hun_080-081_intro.indd 81 17/02/2015 12:57
BUD APEST AREA B Y AREA 81
AROUND PARLIAMENT
Towards the end of the 18th century development. The medieval walls that
and throughout the 19th century, Pest originally marked Pest’s limits were crossed
underwent a series of huge changes. In as the area expanded and was urbanized.
1838 a flood destroyed most of the rural This period produced some of the most
dwellings that had occupied the area. important buildings in Hungary, including
The Chain Bridge, the city’s first permanent St Stephen’s Basilica, Parliament and the
Danube crossing, was built in 1839–49. Hungarian Academy of Science. Many
The unification of Budapest in 1873 and Neo-Classical residences were also built,
the 1,000-year anniversary, in 1896, of the particularly on Nádor utca, Akadémia
Magyar conquest also boosted the city’s utca and Október 6 utca.
Sights at a Glance
Historic Buildings and Palaces Theatres Squares
1 Parliament pp84–5 9 State Opera House pp92–3 4 Liberty Square
3 Ministry of Agriculture q Budapest Operetta Theatre 5 Széchenyi Square
6 Gresham Palace Museums Churches
7 Hungarian Academy of Sciences 2 Museum of Ethnography 8 St Stephen’s Basilica pp90–91
0 Drechsler Palace
w Radisson Blu Béke Hotel
KATONA JÓZSEF U.
SZÉCHENYI RAKPART Ú J P E S T I U . MARI FALK MIKSA U. SZENT ISTVÁN KÖRÚT VISEGRÁDI U. KÁDÁR U. VÁCI ÚT See also Street Finder
TÉR
BALASSI BÁLINT U.
BALATON U.
maps 1 & 2
Nyugati
Pu.
HONVÉD .
TÉR
TÉR
SZEMERE U STOLLÁR B. U. BIHARI J. U. NYUGATI PODMANIECZKY UTCA SZONDI U.
NAGY IGNÁC U.
MARKÓ U.
MARKÓ U.
SZALAY U.
A L K O T M Á N Y U . VI EÖTVÖS U.
VAJKAY U.
KOSSUTH LIPÓTVÁROS WEINER LEÓ U.
LAJOS T E R É Z K Ö R Ú T
TÉR KOZMAF. U. K Á L M Á N I M R E U . LOVAG U. JÓKAI U. ARADI U.
D a n u b e Kossuth VÉRTANÚK H O N V É D U . B ÁT H O R Y U . BAJCSY-ZSILINS NAGYMEZŐ U. DESSEWFFY U. Ó U. Oktogon
ZICHY JENŐ U.
TERE
Lajos tér
TERÉZVÁROS
TÉR
VADÁSH U.
ZOLTÁN U. J. U. DESSEWFFY U. MOZSÁR U. JÓKAI
V KISS E. HOLD U. ZICHY JENŐ U. HAJÓS U.
U.
STEINDL I. SZABADSÁG PODMANICZKY
GARIBALDI U. N Á D O R U .
NAGYSÁNDOR ZKY ÚT
B A N K U . TÉR
TÉR
SZÉCHENYI U. Arany J. u. Ó U. Opera
A R A N Y J Á N O S U . LÁZÁR U.
U.
A K A D É M I A U .
A N D R Á S S Y Ú T 0 metres 500
TÜKÖRY
RÉVAY U.
SZÉCHENYI RAKPART
NÁDO
SAS U.
SZENT
HERCEGPRÍMÁS
VIGYÁZÓ F .U.R U.
ISTVÁN 0 yards 500
Z R ÍNY I U. TÉR
SZÉCHENYI
ISTVÁN
TÉR Bajcsy-Zs. út
OKTÓBER 6 U.
MÉRLEG U.
J Ó Z S E F AT T I L A U .
Magnificent Neo-Gothic craftsmanship in the Hungarian Parliament building For keys to map symbols see back flap
Hun_080-081_intro.indd 81 17/02/2015 12:57
82 BUD APEST AREA B Y AREA AROUND P ARLIA MENT 83
Street-by-Street: Kossuth Square Ferenc Rákóczi II, the prince
of Transylvania, led one of the
This square expresses well the pomp and 2 Museum of Ethnography earliest uprisings for national
independence against the
pride with which Pest was developed during Among 250,000 exhibits in the Habsburgs in 1703–11. This AROUND
the 19th and early 20th centuries. Parliament museum’s collection is a display bronze equestrian monument, PARLIAMENT
dominates the square on the Danube side, of folk costumes representing standing in front of Parlia
but equally imposing are the Ministry of the various nationalities and ment, was created by Danube
János Pásztor in 1937.
eth nic groups in Hungary.
Agriculture and the Museum of Ethnography The museum is scheduled CENTRAL
PEST
on the opposite side. Several monuments to be relocated in 2018. Locator Map
commemorate nationalist leaders and See Street Finder maps 1 & 2
provide a visual record of Hungary’s
recent political history.
1 Parliament
This building has
become the
recognized symbol
of democracy in
Hungary, despite the
fact that the dome
was crowned by a
red star during the 3 Ministry of Agriculture
Communist period. A massive Corinthian colonnade
supporting an entablature
lends this Neo-Classical
building a dignified character.
This monument to
Imre Nagy symbolizes
the pro-reform Communist
prime minister who rose
up with the people against
Attila Jòzsef was a radical Soviet rule in 1956 – a
poet whose work sensitively protest that cost him his
explored the human life two years later.
condition. In 1937 he
committed suicide, K O S S U T H
aged 32. This statue T É R L A J O S
by László Marton
T É R
L A J O S
K O S S U T H
dates from 1980.
Lajos Kossuth (1802–94)
Lajos Kossuth, after whom this square The former headquarters
is named, is still immensely popular in of Hun garian TV, this elegant
Hungary today. Kossuth led the 1848–9 Secessionist building was
uprising against Austrian rule (see pp42–6) designed by Ignác Alpár and
and was one of the most outstanding constructed in 1905. It origi nally
political figures in Hungary. A member of housed the Stock Exchange.
the first democratic govern ment during the
uprising, he briefly became its leader before
being exiled after the revolt was quashed
in 1849. He died in Turin in 1894.
0 metres 150 Plaque commemorating Key
Stained-glass window depicting Lajos Kossuth 0 yards 150 Brigadier Woroniecki, hero
of the uprising of 1848–9 Suggested route
For hotels and restaurants see pp264–269 and pp276–285
082-083_EW_Hungary.indd 82 18/09/17 3:37 pm 082-083_EW_Hungary.indd 83 18/09/17 3:37 pm
AROUND P ARLIA MENT 83
Ferenc Rákóczi II, the prince
of Transylvania, led one of the
earliest uprisings for national
independence against the
Habsburgs in 1703–11. This AROUND
bronze equestrian monument, PARLIAMENT
standing in front of Parlia
ment, was created by Danube
János Pásztor in 1937. CENTRAL
PEST
Locator Map
See Street Finder maps 1 & 2
3 Ministry of Agriculture
A massive Corinthian colonnade
supporting an entablature
lends this Neo-Classical
building a dignified character.
This monument to
Imre Nagy symbolizes
the pro-reform Communist
prime minister who rose
up with the people against
Soviet rule in 1956 – a
protest that cost him his
life two years later.
L A J O S
T É R
K O S S U T H
The former headquarters
of Hun garian TV, this elegant
Secessionist building was
designed by Ignác Alpár and
constructed in 1905. It origi nally
housed the Stock Exchange.
Plaque commemorating
Brigadier Woroniecki, hero Key
of the uprising of 1848–9 Suggested route
082-083_EW_Hungary.indd 83 18/09/17 3:37 pm
84 BUD APEST AREA B Y AREA AROUND P ARLIA MENT 85
1 Parliament Dome
The ceiling of the 96-m- VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Hungary’s Parliament, the country’s (315-ft-) high dome is Practical Information
covered in an intricate
largest building, has become a symbol of design of Neo-Gothic Kossuth Lajos tér. Map 1 C3/4.
Tel (1) 441 44 15. 8 English 10am,
Budapest. A competition held to choose gilding combined with noon, 1pm, 2pm, 3pm daily
its design was won by Imre Steindl, who heraldic decoration. (subject to parliament sessions).
based his plans on the Houses of Parlia & discounted rate for EU citizens.
7 - ∑ parlament.hu
ment in London, built by Charles Barry in Transport
1837–47. Steindl’s rich NeoGothic master Parliament Visitor Centre v 2, 2A. q Kossuth tér. @ 70, 78.
piece, constructed between 1885 and The Neo-Gothic northern façade of the
1904, is 268 m (880 ft) long and 96 m parliamentary building overlooks the contemporary
(315 ft) high, and contains 691 rooms. Visitor Centre’s entrance, which houses educational
exhibitions in state of the art surroundings.
. Domed Hall
Adorning the massive pillars
that support Parliament’s
central dome are figures of
some of Hungary’s rulers.
Tapestry Hall
This room, on the
Danube side of the
Domed Hall, has a
tapestry depicting
Prince Árpád, with
seven Magyar leaders
under his command, as
he signs a peace treaty
and takes an oath.
. Deputy Council Chamber
Formerly the lower house, this
hall is where the National
Assembly now convenes.
Two pain tings by Zsigmond
Vajda, specially commis-
sioned for the building,
hang on either side of the
Speaker’s lectern.
Old Upper House Hall
This vast hall is virtually a mirror image of
the Deputy Council Chamber. Both halls
have public galleries running around
a horseshoe-shaped interior.
The main entrance
on Kossuth Lajos tér
KEY
1 South wing
2 Danube façade Main Staircase
3 The Royal Insignia, excluding the The best contemporary
Coronation Mantle (see p102), is kept artists were invited to
Gables Lobby in the Domed Hall. decorate the interior. The
Almost every corner of the Lobbies, the venues for political sumptuous main staircase
Parliament building features discussions, are to be found 4 North wing features ceiling frescoes by
gables with pinnacles based along corri dors beneath the 5 Tickets can be bought at gate 10 Károly Lotz and sculptures
on Gothic sculptures. stained-glass windows. by György Kiss.
For hotels and restaurants see pp264–269 and pp276–285
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AROUND P ARLIA MENT 85
Dome
The ceiling of the 96-m- VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
(315-ft-) high dome is Practical Information
covered in an intricate Kossuth Lajos tér. Map 1 C3/4.
design of Neo-Gothic Tel (1) 441 44 15. 8 English 10am,
gilding combined with noon, 1pm, 2pm, 3pm daily
heraldic decoration. (subject to parliament sessions).
& discounted rate for EU citizens.
7 - ∑ parlament.hu
Transport
v 2, 2A. q Kossuth tér. @ 70, 78.
Tapestry Hall
This room, on the
Danube side of the
Domed Hall, has a
tapestry depicting
Prince Árpád, with
seven Magyar leaders
under his command, as
he signs a peace treaty
and takes an oath.
Old Upper House Hall
This vast hall is virtually a mirror image of
the Deputy Council Chamber. Both halls
have public galleries running around
a horseshoe-shaped interior.
The main entrance
on Kossuth Lajos tér
KEY
1 South wing
2 Danube façade Main Staircase
3 The Royal Insignia, excluding the The best contemporary
Coronation Mantle (see p102), is kept artists were invited to
in the Domed Hall. decorate the interior. The
sumptuous main staircase
4 North wing features ceiling frescoes by
5 Tickets can be bought at gate 10 Károly Lotz and sculptures
by György Kiss.
084-085_EW_Hungary.indd 85 18/09/17 3:39 pm
86 BUD APEST AREA B Y AREA AROUND P ARLIA MENT 87
from the prehistoric era to the the shooting at Kossuth tér
20th century. A map dating on 25 October 1956, when Secession Architecture
from 1909 shows the settlement a peace ful demonstration
areas of the various groups who during the revolution turned Visitors to Budapest are often impressed by its wonderful range of late 19th- and early
came to be included in Hungary. violent. The two sculptures in 20th-century buildings. The majority of these are found in central Pest and around the
Ethnic items relating to these front of the building are by Városliget district (see pp110–11); Buda was already developed at this stage and so boasts
communities, as well as early Árpád Somogyi: the Reaper
artifacts of the peoples of North Lad (1956) and the Female few examples. The Secession Movement started among groups of avant-garde artists in
and South America, Africa, Asia Agronomist (1954). Paris and Vienna, from where the term “Secession” comes. In Budapest, the Secessionist
and Australia, can also be seen. style was also the inspiration for what would develop into the Hungarian National style.
4 Liberty Square Secessionist architecture is characterized by decorative forms, glazed ceramics and the
3 Ministry of Szabadság tér artistic implementation of modern technical solutions.
Agriculture Map 2 D4. q Kossuth Lajos tér,
Földművelésügyi Minisztérium Arany János utca. The former Post
Savings Bank
Kossuth Lajos tér 11. Map 2 D4. After the demolition of the has a splendid
q Kossuth Lajos tér. main staircase
The magnificent façade of the Neu gebäude Barracks in 1886, Ödön Lechner (1845– designed by
Museum of Ethnography Liberty Square was laid out in 1914), Hungary’s most Ödön Lechner. It
On the southeastern side of their place. The barracks, built influential Secessionist is embellished by
2 Museum of Kossuth Square is a huge building, for the Austrian troops, once architect, combined fine balusters,
Ethnography bordered by streets on all four sides, dominated the southern part modern functionalism spherical lamps
Néprajzi Múzeum which was built for the Ministry of Lipótváros (Leopold Town). and characteristically and decorative
of Agri culture by Gyula Bukovics It was here that Hungary’s first decorative forms. window frames.
Kossuth Lajos tér 12. Map 2 D3. at the end of the 19th century. independent prime minister,
Tel (1) 473 24 42. v 2, 70. q Kossuth The façade is designed in a Count Lajos Batthyány, was
Lajos tér. Closed for renovation. typical late Historicist style, executed on 6 October 1849.
& 8∑ neprajz.hu drawing heavily on Neo- Since 1926, an eternal flame The Geological and Geophysical
Institute of Hungary is
Classical motifs. The columns has been burning at the corner characterized by its stunning
This building, designed by Alajos of the colonnade are echoed of Aulich utca, Hold utca and blue Zsolnay ceramic roof
Hauszmann and constructed in the well-proportioned Báthory utca to honour all tiles. Designed by Ödön
between 1893 and 1896, was pedimented windows above. who were executed. Lechner, the building
built as the Palace of Justice On the wall to the right of the Two impressive buildings dates from 1898–9. The
and, until 1945, served as the building, two commemorative by Ignác Alpár stand on central pitched roof is
Supreme Court. plaques can be seen. The first is opposite sides of the square. topped by four human
The building’s design links dedicated to the commanding The former Stock Exchange figures bent under the
elements of Renaissance, Baroque officer of the Polish Legion, who dates from 1905 and shows weight of a large globe.
and Classicism. The façade is was also a hero of the 1848–9 the influence of the Secession
dominated by a vast portico uprising (see pp46). Brigadier style. The Hungarian National Finely crafted peacocks, a classic
crowned by two towers. A gable Woroniecki, renowned for his Bank (Magyar Nemzeti Bank), Secession motif, adorn the
features the figure of the Roman bravery, was shot down on this also from 1905, is decorated in This vase by István Sovának stands wrought-iron gates of Gresham
god dess of justice in a chariot spot by the Austrians in 1849. Historicist style. An obelisk by in the Museum of Applied Arts. Its plain Palace. This former office block, now
shape and Oriental flower motif hint at
drawn by three horses, created The second plaque honours Károly Antal at the northern the many Eastern elements that crept a luxury hotel (see p88), was built by
by Károly Senyei. The grand hall Endre Ságvári, a Hungarian end of the square commem- into later Secessionist works of art. Zsigmond Quittner in 1905–7.
inside the main entrance boasts hero of the resistance orates the Red Army soldiers
a marvellous staircase and movement, who died when who died during the siege of
frescoes by Károly Lotz. fighting the Fascists in 1944. Budapest in 1944–5. A second
The building was first used The metal balls studding statue honours US General
as a museum in 1957, housing one part of the wall are set into Harry Hill Bandholtz, who foiled
the Hungarian National Gallery bullet holes and form a mem- the looting of the Hungarian
(see pp62–3), which was later orial for the civilian victims of National Museum.
transferred to the Royal Palace.
The Museum of Ethnography
has been here since 1973. This window at the
The museum’s collection Hungarian National
was established in 1872, in Bank was created by
the Department of Ethno graphy Miksa Róth in 1905.
at the Hungarian National Róth (1865–1944) was
Museum (see pp102–3). There Hungary’s leading Reinforced concrete, steel and glass
are now around 240,000 exponent of stained- were often used together to create
exhibits, although most are glass windows. His large, light interiors. The foyer of the
not on display. The collection windows also adorn Gellért Hotel and Baths Complex is a
includes artifacts reflecting the Budapest’s Parliament. perfect example of this technique.
rural folk culture of Hungary Bas-reliefs on the former Stock Exchange in Liberty Square
For hotels and restaurants see pp264–269 and pp276–285
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AROUND P ARLIA MENT 87
Secession Architecture
Visitors to Budapest are often impressed by its wonderful range of late 19th- and early
20th-century buildings. The majority of these are found in central Pest and around the
Városliget district (see pp110–11); Buda was already developed at this stage and so boasts
few examples. The Secession Movement started among groups of avant-garde artists in
Paris and Vienna, from where the term “Secession” comes. In Budapest, the Secessionist
style was also the inspiration for what would develop into the Hungarian National style.
Secessionist architecture is characterized by decorative forms, glazed ceramics and the
artistic implementation of modern technical solutions.
The former Post
Savings Bank
has a splendid
main staircase
Ödön Lechner (1845– designed by
1914), Hungary’s most Ödön Lechner. It
influential Secessionist is embellished by
architect, combined fine balusters,
modern functionalism spherical lamps
and characteristically and decorative
decorative forms. window frames.
The Geological and Geophysical
Institute of Hungary is
characterized by its stunning
blue Zsolnay ceramic roof
tiles. Designed by Ödön
Lechner, the building
dates from 1898–9. The
central pitched roof is
topped by four human
figures bent under the
weight of a large globe.
Finely crafted peacocks, a classic
Secession motif, adorn the
This vase by István Sovának stands wrought-iron gates of Gresham
in the Museum of Applied Arts. Its plain Palace. This former office block, now
shape and Oriental flower motif hint at a luxury hotel (see p88), was built by
the many Eastern elements that crept Zsigmond Quittner in 1905–7.
into later Secessionist works of art.
This window at the
Hungarian National
Bank was created by
Miksa Róth in 1905.
Róth (1865–1944) was
Hungary’s leading Reinforced concrete, steel and glass
exponent of stained- were often used together to create
glass windows. His large, light interiors. The foyer of the
windows also adorn Gellért Hotel and Baths Complex is a
Budapest’s Parliament. perfect example of this technique.
086-087_EW_Hungary.indd 87 18/09/17 3:39 pm
88 BUD APEST AREA B Y AREA AROUND P ARLIA MENT 89
6 Gresham Palace gate, it is widely regarded as one w Radisson Blu
Gresham palota of the most splendid examples Béke Hotel
Széchenyi István 5–7. Map 2 D5. of design from the Secession era. Radisson Blu Béke Hotel
Tel (1) 268 60 00. @ 16. v 2. Inside the building, the second Teréz körút 43. Map 2 E3. Tel (1) 889
∑ fourseasons.com/budapest floor of the Kossuth stairway has 39 00. q Oktogon. v 4, 6.
a stainedglass window by Miksa ∑ danubiushotels.com/beke
This Secession palace aroused Róth, featuring a portrait of Lajos
both controversy and praise Kossuth (see p82). This elegant, historic hotel was
from the moment it was built. In 2004 the palace was built in 1896 as an apart ment
One of Budapest’s most restored and reopened as a building, and in 1912 was
distinctive pieces of architecture, Four Seasons Hotel, the second restyled by Béla Málnai as the
it was commissioned by the in central Europe and the first in Hotel Britannia. A mosaic of
Londonbased Gresham Life Hungary. Visitors are wel come 16th-century general György
Assurance Company from to admire its splendours. The Neo-Renaissance façade of the Drechsler Palace Szondi was added to the façade
Zsigmond Quittner and the at this time.
brothers József and László Vágó, 8 St Stephen’s Operettas were first staged on In 1978 the hotel was
Monument to Ferenc Deák, dating from and completed in 1907. this site in the Orfeum Theatre, taken over by the Radisson
1887, in Széchenyi Square The enormous edifice Basilica designed in the Neo-Baroque style group, which restored the
5 Széchenyi Square enjoys an imposing location Szent István bazilika by the Viennese architects Fellner rich interiors to their former
and Helmer in 1898. In 1922, the
splendour. Notable features
directly opposite the Chain
Széchenyi István tér Bridge. The façade features See pp90–91. US entrepreneur Ben Blumenthal are the fine stained-glass
Map 1 C5. @ 16. v 2. classic Secession motifs redeveloped the building and windows and frescoes by Jenő
(see p87), such as curvilinear 9 Hungarian State opened the Capital Operetta Haranghy in the Szondi Lugas
Széchenyi Square has been forms and organic themes. Opera Theatre, which then specialized Restaurant, which illustrate
known by several different The ornately carved window in the genre. After 1936, this the works of Richard Wagner.
names – Franz Joseph Square, surrounds appear as though Magyar Állami Operaház theatre became the only venue The Romeo and Juliet Conference
Unloading Square and, until they are projecting from the See pp92–3. for operetta in Budapest. Room and the Shakespeare
2011, Roosevelt Square – a title walls, blending seamlessly The theatre presents light Restaurant are named after the
given to it in 1947. It leads into with the architecture. The 0 Drechsler Palace opera by international and murals that decorate them.
the Pest side of the Chain Bridge, bust by Ede Telcs, at the top Hungarian composers, such The Zsolnay Café serves cake
which was designed by English of the façade, is of Sir Thomas Drechsler palota as Imre Kálmán, Ferenc Lehár and coffee on porcelain from
man William Tierney Clark and Gresham. The founder of the Miklós Izsó’s sculptures inside the Andrássy út 25. Map 2 E4/5. and Pál Ábrahám. the Pécs factory (see p190).
built by the Scot Adam Clark in Royal Exchange in London, he Hungarian Academy of Sciences q Opera.
1839–49. It was the city’s first came up with Gresham’s Law:
permanent Danube bridge and “bad money drives out good”. 7 Hungarian Formerly the State Ballet
a major feat of engineering. On the ground floor of the Academy of Institute, the Drechsler Palace
At the beginning of the 20th palace there is a Tshaped was originally built as Neo-
century the square was lined arcade, covered by a multi Sciences Renaissance apartments for
with hotels, the Diana Baths and coloured glazed roof, which Magyar Tudományos Akadémia the Hungarian Railways
the Lloyd Palace designed by is occupied by shops and a Széchenyi István tér 9. Map 1 C5. Pension Fund in 1883. It was
József Hild. The only building restaurant. The entrance to Tel (1) 411 61 00. @ 16. Academy designed by Gyula Pártos and
from the previous century still the arcade is marked by a and Collection of Art: Open 11am– Ödön Lechner to harmonize
standing today is the Hungarian beautiful wroughtiron gate with 4pm Mon–Fri. Closed Jun–Aug. with the façade of the State
Academy of Sciences. All other peacock motifs. Still the original ∑ mta.hu Opera House (see pp92–3),
buildings were demolished and and is of great architectural
replaced by the Gresham Palace Built in 1862–4, this importance to the area.
and the Bank of Hungary, on NeoRenaissance building The palace’s name derives
the cor ner of József Attila utca. was designed by the architect from the Drechsler Café, which
There is a statue to Baron Friedrich August Stüler. occupied the ground floor
József Eötvös (1813–71), a Six statues, representing the towards the end of the 19th
reformer of public education, disciplines of knowledge – law, and in the early 20th century.
in front of the InterContinental history, mathematics, sciences,
Budapest. In the centre of the philosophy and linguistics – q Budapest
square are monuments to and the works of Emil Wolf
two politicians with quite and Miklós Izsó, adorn the Operetta Theatre
different ideologies: Count façade. On the Danube side, Budapesti Operettszínház
István Széchenyi (1791–1860), allegories of poetry, astronomy
the leading social and political and archaeology can be seen, Nagymező utca 17. Map 2 E4.
Tel (1) 472 20 30. q Oktogon.
reformer of his age and initiator while the building’s corners v 4, 6, 70. ∑ operettszinhaz.hu
of the Chain Bridge, and Ferenc have statues of renowned
Deák (1803–76), who was thinkers including Newton Budapest has long enjoyed a
instrumental in the Com and Descartes. Inside, there good reputation for musical
promise of 1867, which led to Bust of Sir Thomas Gresham on the façade is a library and the Academy’s entertain ment, and its operetta
the Dual Monarchy (see p46). of the Gresham Palace Collection of Art. scene is over 100 years old. Entrance to the Budapest Operetta Theatre on Nagymező utca
For hotels and restaurants see pp264–269 and pp276–285
088-089_EW_Hungary.indd 88 18/09/17 3:39 pm 088-089_EW_Hungary.indd 89 18/09/17 3:39 pm
AROUND P ARLIA MENT 89
w Radisson Blu
Béke Hotel
Radisson Blu Béke Hotel
Teréz körút 43. Map 2 E3. Tel (1) 889
39 00. q Oktogon. v 4, 6.
∑ danubiushotels.com/beke
This elegant, historic hotel was
built in 1896 as an apart ment
building, and in 1912 was
restyled by Béla Málnai as the
Hotel Britannia. A mosaic of
16th-century general György
The Neo-Renaissance façade of the Drechsler Palace Szondi was added to the façade
at this time.
8 St Stephen’s Operettas were first staged on In 1978 the hotel was
Basilica this site in the Orfeum Theatre, taken over by the Radisson
designed in the Neo-Baroque style
group, which restored the
Szent István bazilika by the Viennese architects Fellner rich interiors to their former
and Helmer in 1898. In 1922, the splendour. Notable features
See pp90–91.
US entrepreneur Ben Blumenthal are the fine stained-glass
redeveloped the building and windows and frescoes by Jenő
9 Hungarian State opened the Capital Operetta Haranghy in the Szondi Lugas
Opera Theatre, which then specialized Restaurant, which illustrate
Magyar Állami Operaház in the genre. After 1936, this the works of Richard Wagner.
theatre became the only venue The Romeo and Juliet Conference
See pp92–3. for operetta in Budapest. Room and the Shakespeare
The theatre presents light Restaurant are named after the
0 Drechsler Palace opera by international and murals that decorate them.
Drechsler palota Hungarian composers, such The Zsolnay Café serves cake
and coffee on porcelain from
as Imre Kálmán, Ferenc Lehár
Andrássy út 25. Map 2 E4/5. and Pál Ábrahám. the Pécs factory (see p190).
q Opera.
Formerly the State Ballet
Institute, the Drechsler Palace
was originally built as Neo-
Renaissance apartments for
the Hungarian Railways
Pension Fund in 1883. It was
designed by Gyula Pártos and
Ödön Lechner to harmonize
with the façade of the State
Opera House (see pp92–3),
and is of great architectural
importance to the area.
The palace’s name derives
from the Drechsler Café, which
occupied the ground floor
towards the end of the 19th
and in the early 20th century.
q Budapest
Operetta Theatre
Budapesti Operettszínház
Nagymező utca 17. Map 2 E4.
Tel (1) 472 20 30. q Oktogon.
v 4, 6, 70. ∑ operettszinhaz.hu
Budapest has long enjoyed a
good reputation for musical
entertain ment, and its operetta
scene is over 100 years old. Entrance to the Budapest Operetta Theatre on Nagymező utca
088-089_EW_Hungary.indd 89 18/09/17 3:39 pm
90 BUD APEST AREA B Y AREA AROUND P ARLIA MENT 91
8 St Stephen’s Basilica VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Dedicated to St Stephen, or István, the first Hungarian Practical Information
Christian king (see p65), this church was designed by Szent István tér. Map 2 D5.
Tel (1) 338 21 51. Open
József Hild in the Neo-Classical style, using a Greek cross 9am–5pm Mon–Fri, 9am–1pm
floorplan. Construction began in 1851 and was taken Sat, 1–5pm Sun. 8 7 5
over in 1867 by Miklós Ybl (see p93), who added the Neo- Transport
Renaissance dome after the original one collapsed in 1868. q Deák Ferenc tér.
József Kauser completed the church in 1905. It received Mosaics
the title of Basilica Minor in 1938, the 900th anniversary The dome is decorated
of the death of Prince Imre (St Emeric), István’s son. with mosaics designed by
Károly Lotz.
St Matthew
St Matthew is one of
the four Evangelists . Main Altar
represented in the In the centre of the altar there is a
niches on the exterior Dome marble statue of St István by Alajos
of the dome. They are Reaching 96 m (315 ft), the dome Stróbl. Scenes from the king’s life are
all the work of the is visible from all over Budapest. The depicted behind the altar.
sculptor Leó Feszler. observation terrace beneath
the dome offers unique panoramic
views of the city.
Tower
A bell, weighing 9,250 kg . Holy Right Hand
(9 tons) is housed in this Hungary’s most unusual relic
tower. It was funded by is the mummified forearm of St
German Catholics to István. It is kept in the Chapel of
compensate for the the Holy Right Hand.
original bell, which
was looted by
the Nazis in 1944. St Gellért and
St Emeric
This portrayal of
St Gellért and his
pupil, St Emeric, is the
work of Alajos Stróbl.
Main Portal
The massive door is
decorated with carvings
depicting the heads of
the 12 Apostles.
KEY
1 Observation point . Painting by Gyula Benczúr
2 Figures of the 12 Apostles, by This image shows King István, left
Leó Feszler, crown the outer colon without an heir, dedicating Hungary to
nade at the back of the church. the Virgin Mary, who became Patrona
Hungariae, the country’s patron.
For hotels and restaurants see pp264–269 and pp276–285
090-091_EW_Hungary.indd 90 18/09/17 3:37 pm 090-091_EW_Hungary.indd 91 18/09/17 3:37 pm
AROUND P ARLIA MENT 91
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Szent István tér. Map 2 D5.
Tel (1) 338 21 51. Open
9am–5pm Mon–Fri, 9am–1pm
Sat, 1–5pm Sun. 8 7 5
Transport
q Deák Ferenc tér.
Mosaics
The dome is decorated
with mosaics designed by
Károly Lotz.
. Main Altar
In the centre of the altar there is a
marble statue of St István by Alajos
Stróbl. Scenes from the king’s life are
depicted behind the altar.
. Holy Right Hand
Hungary’s most unusual relic
is the mummified forearm of St
István. It is kept in the Chapel of
the Holy Right Hand.
St Gellért and
St Emeric
This portrayal of
St Gellért and his
pupil, St Emeric, is the
work of Alajos Stróbl.
. Painting by Gyula Benczúr
This image shows King István, left
without an heir, dedicating Hungary to
the Virgin Mary, who became Patrona
Hungariae, the country’s patron.
090-091_EW_Hungary.indd 91 18/09/17 3:37 pm
92 BUD APEST AREA B Y AREA AROUND P ARLIA MENT 93
9 Hungarian State Chandelier VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Opera The main hall is decorated
with a bronze chandelier that
weighs 3,050 kg (3 tons). It Practical Information
Andrássy út 22. Map 2 E4. Tel (1)
Opened in September 1884, the State Opera illuminates a magnificent 332 81 97 or 353 01 70 (box office).
fresco by Károly Lotz of the
House in Budapest was built to rival those of Greek gods on Olympus. & ^ 7 = 8 3pm & 4pm
Paris, Vienna and Dresden. Its beautiful daily. ∑ operavisit.hu
architecture and interiors were the life’s work of Transport
the great Hungarian architect, Miklós Ybl. The q Opera. v 4, 6.
interior contains ornamentation by Hungarian
artists, including Alajos Strobl and Károly Lotz.
During its lifetime, the State Opera House has
seen some influential music directors, including Façade
Ferenc Erkel, com poser of the Hungarian opera A musical theme underlies the decoration of
Bánk Bán, Gustav Mahler and Otto Klemperer. the symmetrical façade. In niches on either side
of the main entrance there are figures of two of
Hungary’s most prominent compo sers, Ferenc
Erkel and Ferenc (Franz) Liszt. Both were
sculpted by Alajos Stróbl.
Murals
The vaulted ceiling of Central Stage
the foyer is covered in This proscenium arch stage employed
magnificent murals by the most modern technology of the
Bertalan Székely and time. It featured a revolving stage and
Mór Than. They depict metal hydraulic machinery.
the nine Muses.
. Foyer
With its marble columns,
gilded vaulted ceiling,
murals and chandeliers,
the foyer gives the
State Opera House
a feeling of opulence
and grandeur.
Main Entrance
Wrought-iron
lamps illuminate
the wide stone
staircase and the
main entrance. Miklós Ybl (1814–91)
The most prominent Hungarian architect of
the second half of the 19th century, Miklós
Ybl had an enormous influence on the . Royal Box
development of Budapest. He was a Located centrally in
practitioner of Historicism, and tended the three-storey circle, the
. Main Staircase royal box is decorated with
Going to the opera to use Neo-Renaissance forms. The sculptures symbolizing
State Opera House and the dome
was a great social of St Stephen’s Basilica are the four operatic voices –
occasion in the soprano, alto, tenor and bass.
19th century. A vast, examples of his work. Ybl also
built apartment buildings and
KEY sweeping staircase palaces for the aristocracy in this
was an important style. A statue of the architect
1 The side entrance has a element of the opera stands on the western bank of the
loggia that reflects the design house, as it allowed Danube, in Miklós Ybl Square. Bust of Miklós Ybl
of the main entrance. ladies to show off
their new gowns.
For hotels and restaurants see pp264–269 and pp276–285
092-093_EW_Hungary.indd 92 18/09/17 3:37 pm 092-093_EW_Hungary.indd 93 18/09/17 3:37 pm
AROUND P ARLIA MENT 93
Chandelier
The main hall is decorated VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
with a bronze chandelier that
weighs 3,050 kg (3 tons). It Practical Information
illuminates a magnificent Andrássy út 22. Map 2 E4. Tel (1)
fresco by Károly Lotz of the 332 81 97 or 353 01 70 (box office).
& ^ 7 = 8 3pm & 4pm
Greek gods on Olympus.
daily. ∑ operavisit.hu
Transport
q Opera. v 4, 6.
Central Stage
This proscenium arch stage employed
the most modern technology of the
time. It featured a revolving stage and
metal hydraulic machinery.
Miklós Ybl (1814–91)
The most prominent Hungarian architect of
the second half of the 19th century, Miklós
Ybl had an enormous influence on the . Royal Box
development of Budapest. He was a Located centrally in
practitioner of Historicism, and tended the three-storey circle, the
to use Neo-Renaissance forms. The royal box is decorated with
State Opera House and the dome sculptures symbolizing
of St Stephen’s Basilica are the four operatic voices –
examples of his work. Ybl also soprano, alto, tenor and bass.
built apartment buildings and
palaces for the aristocracy in this
style. A statue of the architect
stands on the western bank of the
Danube, in Miklós Ybl Square. Bust of Miklós Ybl
092-093_EW_Hungary.indd 93 18/09/17 3:37 pm
BUD APEST AREA B Y AREA 95
CENTRAL PEST
At the end of the 17th century much of Pest most prominent example of this work is the
was in ruins and few residents remained. Hungarian National Museum. At this time
Within the next decades, however, new Pest surpassed Buda as a centre for trade and
residential districts were established – today’s industry. This was partly due to the Jewish
midtown suburbs. In the 19th century, community, who actively helped develop the
redevelopment schemes introduced grand area. Today it combines commerce and culture
houses and apartment blocks, as well as with beautiful architecture, elegant shopping
secular and municipal buildings. Perhaps the arcades and plentiful cafés and restaurants.
Sights at a Glance
Museums Churches and Synagogues
q Museum of Applied Arts 6 Inner City Parish Church
w Hungarian National Museum 9 University Church ARADI U.
pp102–3 e Great Synagogue Vörösmarty
utca
i House of Terror Museum Streets and Squares CSENGERY U.
Historic Buildings 1 Vigadó Square HUNYAGI
TÉR
and Monuments 2 Mihály Vörösmarty Square Oktogon
3 Turkish Bank 5 Váci Street KIRÁLY U.
4 Pest County Hall r Jewish Quarter ANDRÁSSY ÚT.
7 Klotild Palaces
8 City Council Chamber Opera
0 Ervin Szabó Library KIRÁLY U.
t New York Palace VASVÁRY P. U. ERZSÉBET KÖRÚT
y Liszt Academy of Music ANDRÁSSY ÚT. CSÁNYI U.
u New Theatre PAULAY EDE U. KIS DIÓFA U. KERTÉSZ U.
Bajcsy- KLAUZÁL
TÉR
Zs.út KIRÁLY U. KAZINCZY U. DOB U.
Széchenyi JÓZSEF ATTILA U. ERZSÉBET HOLLÓ U. ERZSÉBETVÁROS
Lánchíd
EÖTVÖS
TÉR JÓZSEF TÉR Deák
NÁDOR
TÉR Ferenc tér DOB U. AKÁCFA U. Blaha
Vörösmarty HARMINCAD U. WESSELÉNYI U. NAGY DIÓFA U. KLAUZÁL U. Lujza Tér
tér KÁROLY KÖRÚT BLAHA
DOHÁNY U.
RUMBACH S. U.
LUJZA
DEÁK FERENC U. GERLÓCZY U. SÍP U. R Á K Ó C Z I Ú T. STÁHLY U. TÉR
Danub e
VÁCI U.
RÉGIPOSTA U. VÁROSHÁZ U. KOSSUTH L. U. Astoria SZENTKIRÁLYI U. VAS U. GYULAI PÁL U. SOMOGYI BÉLA U. JÓZSEF KÖRÚT
APÁCZAI U.
PETÕFI S. U.
PESTI B. U. Ferenciek PUSKIN U. GUTENBERG
JANE HANING RAKPART
SZABAD SAJTÓ ÚT. KÁROLYI U. FERENCZY I. U. MÚZEUM KÖRÚT BRÓDY SÁNDOR U. Rákóczi tér
TÉR
tere
Erzsébet DUNA U. VERES PÁLNÉ U. MAGYAR U. HORÁNSZKY U. MÁRIA U.
híd
BELVÁROS MÚZEUM U. KRÚDY U.
SZERB U. KIRÁLYI PÁL U. KÁLVIN
TÉR
Kálvin BAROSS U.
MOLNÁR U.
tér
VÁCI U.
FŐVÁM VÁMHÁZ KRT ÜLLÕI ÚT MÁRIA U. JÓZSEF KÖRÚT
TÉR IX
Fővám
tér LÓNYAY U. RÁDAY U.
See also Street Finder
maps 2 & 4
CSARNOK Corvin
KINIZSI U. KNÉZITS U.
TÉR Negyed
FERENC KÖRÚT
0 metres 400 D a n u b e KÖZRAKTÁR U. RÁDAY U.
0 yards 400 LÓ N YAY U .
Ornate façade on Váci Street, which, like much of central Pest, is pedestrianized For keys to map symbols see back flap
094-095_EW_Hungary.indd 94 18/09/17 3:39 pm 094-095_EW_Hungary.indd 95 18/09/17 3:39 pm
BUD APEST AREA B Y AREA 95
CENTRAL PEST
At the end of the 17th century much of Pest most prominent example of this work is the
was in ruins and few residents remained. Hungarian National Museum. At this time
Within the next decades, however, new Pest surpassed Buda as a centre for trade and
residential districts were established – today’s industry. This was partly due to the Jewish
midtown suburbs. In the 19th century, community, who actively helped develop the
redevelopment schemes introduced grand area. Today it combines commerce and culture
houses and apartment blocks, as well as with beautiful architecture, elegant shopping
secular and municipal buildings. Perhaps the arcades and plentiful cafés and restaurants.
Sights at a Glance
Museums Churches and Synagogues
q Museum of Applied Arts 6 Inner City Parish Church
w Hungarian National Museum 9 University Church ARADI U.
pp102–3 e Great Synagogue Vörösmarty
utca
i House of Terror Museum Streets and Squares CSENGERY U.
Historic Buildings 1 Vigadó Square HUNYAGI
TÉR
and Monuments 2 Mihály Vörösmarty Square Oktogon
3 Turkish Bank 5 Váci Street KIRÁLY U.
4 Pest County Hall r Jewish Quarter ANDRÁSSY ÚT.
7 Klotild Palaces
8 City Council Chamber Opera
0 Ervin Szabó Library KIRÁLY U.
t New York Palace VASVÁRY P. U. ERZSÉBET KÖRÚT
y Liszt Academy of Music ANDRÁSSY ÚT. CSÁNYI U.
u New Theatre PAULAY EDE U. KIS DIÓFA U. KERTÉSZ U.
Bajcsy- KLAUZÁL
TÉR
Zs.út KIRÁLY U. KAZINCZY U. DOB U.
Széchenyi JÓZSEF ATTILA U. ERZSÉBET HOLLÓ U. ERZSÉBETVÁROS
Lánchíd
EÖTVÖS
JÓZSEF
TÉR NÁDOR TÉR Deák
TÉR Ferenc tér DOB U. AKÁCFA U. Blaha
Vörösmarty HARMINCAD U. WESSELÉNYI U. NAGY DIÓFA U. KLAUZÁL U. Lujza Tér
tér KÁROLY KÖRÚT BLAHA
DOHÁNY U.
RUMBACH S. U.
LUJZA
DEÁK FERENC U. GERLÓCZY U. SÍP U. R Á K Ó C Z I Ú T. STÁHLY U. TÉR
Danub e
VÁCI U.
RÉGIPOSTA U. VÁROSHÁZ U. KOSSUTH L. U. Astoria SZENTKIRÁLYI U. VAS U. GYULAI PÁL U. SOMOGYI BÉLA U. JÓZSEF KÖRÚT
APÁCZAI U.
PETÕFI S. U.
PESTI B. U. Ferenciek PUSKIN U. GUTENBERG
JANE HANING RAKPART
SZABAD SAJTÓ ÚT. KÁROLYI U. FERENCZY I. U. MÚZEUM KÖRÚT BRÓDY SÁNDOR U. Rákóczi tér
TÉR
tere
Erzsébet DUNA U. VERES PÁLNÉ U. MAGYAR U. HORÁNSZKY U. MÁRIA U.
híd
BELVÁROS MÚZEUM U. KRÚDY U.
SZERB U. KIRÁLYI PÁL U. KÁLVIN
TÉR
Kálvin BAROSS U.
MOLNÁR U.
tér
VÁCI U.
FŐVÁM VÁMHÁZ KRT ÜLLÕI ÚT MÁRIA U. JÓZSEF KÖRÚT
TÉR IX
Fővám
tér LÓNYAY U. RÁDAY U.
See also Street Finder
maps 2 & 4
CSARNOK Corvin
KINIZSI U. KNÉZITS U.
TÉR Negyed
FERENC KÖRÚT
0 metres 400 D a n u b e KÖZRAKTÁR U. RÁDAY U.
0 yards 400 LÓN YAY U .
Ornate façade on Váci Street, which, like much of central Pest, is pedestrianized For keys to map symbols see back flap
094-095_EW_Hungary.indd 95 18/09/17 3:39 pm
96 BUD APEST AREA B Y AREA CENTR AL PEST 97
Street-by-Street: Around Váci Street AROUND
PARLIAMENT
The northern section of Váci Street has been Budapest’s fashionable
area for walking, meeting in cafés and shopping in elegant boutiques
since the early 19th century. Its attractive promenade is an enjoyable CENTRAL
PEST
place for a stroll in the evening, when it is stylishly illuminated.
GELLÉRT
HILL AND
TABÁN Danube
Gerbeaud Cukrászda
is one of the best Locator Map
patisseries in town. See Street Finder map 4
Holy Figures adorn the
Holy Figures adorn the 5 . Váci Street
Vigadó 19th-century façade of the Budapest’s most elegant promenade and shopping area is lined with
19th-century façade of the
concert D O R O T T Y A U Baroque Servite Church. fashion boutiques, cafés, fountains and statues. Off the street there
Baroque Servite Church.
hall are old courtyards and shopping arcades.
3 Turkish
V I G A D Ó U corner of Kígyó utca and Petőfi
Bank
Párizsi Udvar is found on the
D E Á K F E R E N C U currently closed for renovation,
Sándor utca. The arcade,
is set to become a hotel with
shops downstairs.
V Á C I U T C A
U U
I I
S S
Z Z
I I
A R R
2 Mihály Vörösmarty Square P A P A
A Carrara marble monument
to the poet Mihály Vörösmarty R É G I P O S T A U T C
stands in this square. The statue
was created by Ede Telcs and
symbolizes the Hungarian V Á C I U T C A
nation united in the poet’s K I G Y Ó U 7 . Klotild Palaces
V Á C I U T C A
words: “Your homeland, These beautifully decorated twin buildings,
Hungary, serve unwave ringly”. designed as elegant apartment blocks in
the Historicist style, flank each side of the
approach to the Elizabeth Bridge.
Thonet House was built in 1888–
90 by Ödön Lechner (see p87) and
Gyula Pártos. The building stands
today in its original form, featuring P E S T I U 0 metres 50
Zsolnay ceramics from Pécs.
0 yards
50
Key
Suggested route
Péterffy Palace, now the Százéves
Étterem, is one of Pest’s few
remaining Baroque mansions. Built Remains of Contra
by András Mayerhoffer in 1755 for Aquincum 6 . Inner City Parish Church
the magistrate János Péterffy, above This limestone and marble
the gateway there is a beautiful tabernacle, in the church, dates
balcony supported by atlantes. from the early 16th century
For hotels and restaurants see pp264–269 and pp276–285
096-097_EW_Hungary.indd 96 19/09/17 10:50 am 096-097_EW_Hungary.indd 97 19/09/17 10:50 am
CENTR AL PEST 97
AROUND
PARLIAMENT
CENTRAL
PEST
GELLÉRT
HILL AND
TABÁN Danube
Locator Map
See Street Finder map 4
Holy Figures adorn the 5 . Váci Street
19th-century façade of the Budapest’s most elegant promenade and shopping area is lined with
Baroque Servite Church. fashion boutiques, cafés, fountains and statues. Off the street there
are old courtyards and shopping arcades.
Párizsi Udvar is found on the
corner of Kígyó utca and Petőfi
Sándor utca. The arcade,
currently closed for renovation,
is set to become a hotel with
shops downstairs.
U
I
S
Z
I
R
P A
K I G Y Ó U These beautifully decorated twin buildings,
7 . Klotild Palaces
V Á C I U T C A
designed as elegant apartment blocks in
the Historicist style, flank each side of the
approach to the Elizabeth Bridge.
0 metres 50
0 yards 50
Key
Suggested route
6 . Inner City Parish Church
This limestone and marble
tabernacle, in the church, dates
from the early 16th century
096-097_EW_Hungary.indd 97 19/09/17 10:50 am
98 BUD APEST AREA B Y AREA
marble and bronze; ceiling
stucco-work in Louis XIV style;
chandeliers, lamps and Secession-
style chairs brought from Paris.
A tempting selection of frothy
coffees, cakes, pastries and
desserts is on offer. In summer,
refreshments can be taken on a
terrace over looking the square.
3 Turkish Bank
Török Bankház
Szervita tér 3. Map 4 D1.
q Deák Ferenc tér.
Dating from 1906 and designed
by Henrik Böhm and Ármin
Hegedűs, the building that
Outdoor seating of the elegant Gerbeaud café, on Mihály Vörösmarty Square formerly housed the Turkish
Bank is a wonder ful example
1 Vigadó Square after whom the square is of the Secession style.
Vigadó tér named. Unveiled in 1908, it Modern construction
is the work of Ede Telcs. Behind methods were used to create
Map 4 D1. v 2. the monument, on the eastern the glass façade, which is set
side of the square, is the Luxus in reinforced concrete. Above
The Vigadó concert hall depart ment store. It is located the fenestration, in the gable,
dominates the square with its in a three-storey corner building is a magnificent colourful
mix of eclectic forms. Built to dating from 1911 and designed mosaic created by Miksa Róth.
designs by Frigyes Feszl from by Kálmán Giergl and Flóris Korb. Entitled Glory to Hungary, it
1859 to 1864, it replaces a The main attraction on the depicts the country paying
predecessor destroyed by fire northern side of the square is the homage to the Virgin Mary, its
during the uprising of 1848–9 renowned patisserie, Gerbeaud patron saint, Patrona Hungariae
(see pp46–7). The façade has Cukrászda, first opened by Henrik (see p91). Angels and shepherds
arched windows and includes Kugler in 1858. It was taken over surround the Virgin, along with
features such as folk motifs, by his business partner, the Swiss figures of Hungarian political
dancers on columns and busts pâtissier Emil Gerbeaud, who heroes, such as Prince Ferenc
of former monarchs, rulers and was responsible for the richly Rákóczi (see pp45), István
other Hungarian personalities. decorated interior which survives Széchenyi (see pp46) and Lajos
An old Hungarian coat of arms to this day. It features Kossuth (see p82).
is also visible in the centre. fine woods,
The Budapest Marriott Hotel,
located on one side of the
square, was designed by József
Finta in 1969. It was one of the
first modern hotels to be built
in Budapest.
On the Danube promenade
is a statue of a childlike figure
sitting on the railings: Little
Princess, by László Marton. Vigadó
Square also has numerous craft
stalls, cafés and restaurants.
2 Mihály Vörösmarty
Square
Vörösmarty Mihály tér
Map 2 D5. q Vörösmarty tér.
In the middle of this splendid
pedestrianized square stands a
monument depicting the poet
Mihály Vörösmarty (1800–55), Glory to Hungary, the mosaic on the façade of the Turkish Bank
For hotels and restaurants see pp264–269 and pp276–285
098-099_EW_Hungary.indd 98 18/09/17 3:37 pm
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The ideal travel companion, full of insider advice on what to see and do, plus detailed itineraries and
comprehensive maps for exploring Hungary.
Experience luxurious spas, wander the historic Castle District in Budapest or explore the immense Hortobágy
National Park: everything you need to know is clearly laid out within colour-coded chapters. Discover the
best of Hungary with this indispensable travel guide.
Inside DK Eyewitness Travel Guide Hungary:
- Over 30 colour maps help you navigate with ease
- Simple layout makes it easy to find the information you need
- Comprehensive tours and itineraries of Hungary, designed for every interest and budget
- Illustrations and floorplans show the inside of the Royal Palace of Gödölló, St Stephen's Basilica, Esztergom Basilica, Pannonhalma Abbey, Budapest's striking Memento Park and more
- Colour photographs of vibrant cities, historic churches and castles, pretty rural towns, spectacular
architecture, serene countryside and more
- Detailed chapters, with area maps, cover Budapest, Szentendre, Esztergom, Northern Transdanubia,
Székesfehérvár, the Bakony, Sopron, Pécs, Southern Transdanubia and the Northern Highlands
- Historical and cultural context gives you a richer travel experience: learn about Hungary's history, way of life, architecture, diverse cuisine, festivals and events, thermal springs and baths, winemaking tradition and more
- Essential travel tips: our expert choices of where to stay, eat, shop and sightsee, plus useful phrases, and transport, visa and health information
DK Eyewitness Travel Guide Hungary is a detailed, easy-to-use guide designed to help you get the most from
your visit to Hungary.
About DK Eyewitness Travel: DK's highly visual Eyewitness guides show you what others only tell you, with
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