(DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Hungary

CENTR AL PEST  99

4 Pest County Hall In a side street off Váci Street,
Pest Megyei Önkormányzat at No. 13 Régiposta utca, stands
Városház utca 7. Map 4 E1. Tel (1) 485 a Modernist-style building.
68 00 or 485 68 26. q Ferenciek tere. An unusual sight in Pest, this
Open 8am–6pm Mon–Fri. Bauhaus-influenced building
dates from 1937 and is by
Built in several stages, this is Lajos Kozma.
one of Pest’s most beautiful,
monumental Neo-Classical civic 6 Inner City Parish
buildings. It was erected during Church
the 19th century, as part of the
plan for the city drawn up by the Belvárosi Plébánia templom
Embellish ment Commission. Március 15 tér 2. Map 4 D1. Tel (1) 318
A seat of the Council of 31 08. q Ferenciek tere. Open 9am–
Pest has existed on this site 6pm daily.
since the late 17th century. By
1811, the building comprised Thonet House, with Zsolnay tile decoration, The oldest building in Pest, this
two conference halls, a prison at No. 11 Váci Street church was first established during
and a prison chapel. Between the reign of St István, on the burial
1829 and 1832, a wing designed 20th centuries. More recently, site of the martyred St Gellért. In
by József Hofrichter was added however, modern department the 12th century it was replaced
on Semmelweis utca. stores, banks and shopping by a Romanesque church, of
In another development arcades have sprung up along which a wall fragment remains in
phase, in 1838–42, Mátyás the street among the older the façade of the South Tower.
Zitterbarth Jr com pleted the original buildings. In the 14th century it became
impressive façade, which over- Philantia, a a large Gothic
looks Városház utca. It features Secession-style construction, and
a portico with six Corinthian florist’s shop opened subse quently a
columns that support a in 1905, now mosque. Damaged by
prominent tympanum. occupies part of the the Great Fire of 1723,
County Hall was rebuilt and Neo-Classical block the church was partly
enlarged after destruction at No. 9, built in 1840 rebuilt in the Baroque
during World War II. Three by József Hild. No. 9 style by György Paur
internal courtyards were added. also houses the Pest in 1725–39. The interior
The first of these is surrounded Theatre, where classic Crest of Pest in Inner City also contains Neo-
by cloisters; summer concerts plays by Anton Parish Church Classical elements by
are often held here. Chekhov, among János Hild, as well as
In the small adjoining street, others, are staged. The building 20th-century works. The main altar
Kamer mayer Károly tér, stands was once occupied by the “Inn (1948) is one such piece, replacing
an aluminium monument, of the Seven Electors”, which the original. It was painted by
designed in 1942 by Béla had a large ballroom and Károly Antal and Pál Molnár.
Szabados, to Buda pest’s first concert hall. It was here that a The church is open, although
mayor, Károly Kamermayer 12-year-old Ferenc (Franz) Liszt ongoing renovations may
(1829–97), who took office in performed in 1823. affect visitors.
1873 after the unifi cation of Thonet House, at No. 11, is
Óbuda, Buda and Pest. most notable for the Zsolnay
tiles from Pécs that adorn its
5 Váci Street façade. No. 13 is the oldest
building on Váci Street and
Váci utca was built in 1805. In contrast,
Map 4 D1–E2. q Ferenciek tere. the Post-Modern Fontana
department store at No. 16 was
Once two separate streets, which built in 1984. Outside there is a
were joined at the beginning of bronze fountain with a figure of
the 18th century, the two ends the Greek god Hermes, dating
of Váci Street still have distinct from the mid-19th century.
characters, the northern end The Nádor Hotel once stood
being perhaps the more at No. 20 and featured a statue
elegant. The whole street is of Archduke Palatine József in
pedestrianized, making this front of the entrance. Today
a popular visitor destination for the Taverna Hotel, designed
shopping and strolling. Most of by József Finta and opened
the buildings lining the street in 1987, stands here. It has a The Baroque nave of the Inner City Parish
date from the 19th and early popular coffee shop. Church, dating from the 1730s




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100  BUD APEST AREA B Y AREA

7 Klotild Palaces exterior features a tympanum
Klotild paloták and a row of pilasters that
Szabadsajtó út. Map 4 D1. divide the façade. Figures of
q Ferenciek tere. St Paul and St Anthony flank
the emblem of the Pauline
On either side of Szabadsajtó order, which crowns the
utca, on the approach to the exterior. The carved-wood
Elizabeth Bridge, stand two interior of the main vestibule
massive apartment blocks built is also worth seeing.
in 1902. The buildings were Inside the church a row of
commissioned by the daughter- side chapels stand behind
in-law of Emperor Franz Joseph, unusual marble pilasters. In
Arch duchess Klotild. 1776 Johann Bergl painted the
The palaces were designed vaulted ceiling with frescoes
by Flóris Korb and Kálmán Giergl depicting scenes from the life
in the Historicist style, with of Mary. Sadly, these frescoes
elements of Rococo decoration. are now in poor condition.
Once they comprised entirely The main altar dates from
rented apartments; now only 1746, and the carved statues
the upper floors remain in behind it are the work of
residential use. The ground floor József Hebenstreit. Above it
is occupied by shops, a café and is a copy of the painting The
the Buda pest Gallery; the right A detail from the decorative façade of Black Madonna of Czestochowa,
wing of the palace houses the the City Council Chamber which is thought to date from
Buddha-Bar Hotel. 1720. Much of the Baroque
Neo-Renaissance design in interior is the work of the
brick, with grotesques between Pauline monks; for example
the windows, while the interior the balustrade of the organ
features cast-iron Neo-Gothic loft, the confessionals and the
motifs. The Great Debating Hall carved pulpit on the right.
is decorated with mosaics The church – which is the
designed by Károly Lotz. property of Budapest
Fashionable bars, restau rants Uni versity’s Law Faculty –
and cafés, all assembled along today often hosts concerts
a pedestrianized road, make of choral and classical music,
the area around the Council to raise funds for a massive
Chamber a charming part of programme of renovation.
the city. There are some
antiquarian book shops and
galleries located here, as well
as fashion boutiques, and
high-end designer shops.

9 University
One of the twin Klotild Palaces, by the
approach to Elizabeth Bridge Church
Egyetemi templom
8 City Council Papnövelde utca 5–7. Map 4 E1/2.
Tel (1) 318 05 55. q Kálvin tér.
Chamber Open 7am–7pm daily.
Új Városháza
This single-aisle church is
Váci utca 62–64. Map 4 E2. considered one of the most
Tel (1) 235 17 00. q Deák tér. 8
impressive Baroque churches
in the city. It was built for
This three-storey edifice was the Pauline order between
built between 1870 and 1875 1725 and 1742, and was
as offices for the newly probably designed by András
unified city of Budapest. Its Mayerhoffer. The tower was
architect, Imre Steindl, was added in 1771. The Pauline
also responsible for designing order, founded in 1263 by
the Parlia ment (see pp84–5). Canon Euzebiusz, was the only
The building displays a mix religious order to be founded Magnificent sculptures decorating the
of styles. The exterior is a in Hungary. The magnificent pulpit in the University Church
For hotels and restaurants see pp264–269 and pp276–285


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CENTR AL PEST  101


q Museum of
Applied Arts
Iparművészeti Múzeum
Űllői út 33–37. Map 4 F2. Tel (1) 456
51 07. q Ferenc körút. Open
10am–6pm Tue–Sun. & = -
∑ imm.hu
The Museum of Applied
Arts was opened in 1896 by
Emperor Franz Joseph as part
of the Millennium Celebrations
(see p108). The collection is
housed not within a Neo-
Classical building, but within an
outstanding Secession building
Spiral staircase in one of the rooms of the
Ervin Szabó Library designed by Gyula Pártos and A 17th-century dress in the Museum
Ödön Lechner. The exterior of Applied Arts
0 Metropolitan incorporated elements inspired
Ervin Szabó Library by the Orient as well as the bentwood furniture. The fine
Zsolnay ceramics characteristic
metalwork collection com prises
Fövárosi Szabó Ervin Könyvtár of Lechner’s work. Damaged watches, jewellery and other
Reviczky utca 1. Map 4 F2. Tel (1) 411 in 1945 and again in 1956, the items made by foreign and
50 00. q Kálvin tér. Open 10am–8pm building has been restored to Hungarian craftsmen. The
Mon–Fri, 10am–4pm Sat. its original magnificence. extensive ceramics and
The building is set glass ware collection
In 1887, the wealthy indus- around a glorious, contains early Haban
trialist Wenckheim family arcaded courtyard, ware, Bohemian glass,
com missioned the architect surrounded by as well as glass making
Artur Meining to build a palace cloisters and in Hungary. In the
in the Neo-Baroque and designed in an textiles section,
Rococo style. The result was Indian-Oriental superb European
Wenck heim Palace, regarded style. The museum, silks, including many
as one of the most beautiful established in 1872, from the 13th and
palaces in Budapest. comprises many 14th centuries, can
In 1926, the city council superb examples of arts Amphitrite and be seen. It also
acquired the palace and con- and crafts workmanship. triton pendant traces the history of
verted it into a public lending Among the museum’s Hungarian lace making.
library, which focuses on the permanent collections is The museum holds regular
city itself and social sciences. furniture from the 14th to the temporary exhibitions. The
It was named after the 20th centuries, including first-floor library, also dating
politician and social reformer the furnishings of entire from 1872, contains around
Ervin Szabó (1877–1918), historic buildings in Hungary, 50,000 books, making it one
who was the library’s first fine French pieces and Thonet of the largest in Hungary.
director. The library has over
100 branches through out
Buda pest and houses some
three million books.
Beautifully renovated, the
library boasts one of the most
elegant reading rooms any-
where. It features glorious
stucco decoration with gold
tracery, enormous chandeliers
and finely worked wooden
staircases. Also worth particular
attention are the richly gilded
salons on the first floor and the
dome above an oval panel of
reliefs. Outside, the magnificent
wrought-iron gates, dating
from 1897, are the work of
Gyula Jungfer. The Oriental-style inner courtyard of the Museum of Applied Arts




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102  BUD APEST AREA B Y AREA CENTR AL PEST  103

w Hungarian National Museum Right Hand of Stalin
This hand is all that remains of the 8-m- VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
(26-ft-) high statue of Stalin that stood in
The Hungarian National Museum is the the Városliget in Budapest. A symbol Practical Information
country’s richest resource of art and artifacts of the Communist regime, Múzeum körút 14–16. Map 4 E1/
relating to its own turbulent history. Founded the statue was destroyed F1. Tel (1) 338 21 22 (327 77 73
for guided tours in English).
in the Hungarian
in 1802, the museum owes its existence to Revolution of 1956. Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun. &
Count Ferenc Széchényi, who bequeathed 8 - = ∑ mnm.hu
his collection of coins, books and documents Transport
to the nation. The museum’s constantly v 47, 49. q Kálvin tér, Astoria.
expanding collection of art and documents @ 9, 15.
is exhibited in an impressive Neo-Classical Placing the Cornerstone (1864)
edifice built by Mihály Pollack. This painting by Miklós Barabás shows
the ceremony that marked the
beginning of construction of the
Chain Bridge in 1842.
Pelisse
Second floor
This short jacket, dating
from around 1620, is
typical of Hungarian
national costume. It
belonged to Gábor
Bethlen, a prince
Silk Corset of of Transylvania.
Queen Elisabeth
This black silk corset was worn by
Queen Elisabeth of Hungary and still
bears the mark of the stab wound that
killed her in Geneva on 10 September 1898.
First floor




Gothic Well
. Funeral Crown These reconstructed fragments are
This magnificent 13th-century part of a well from the Royal
golden crown was found in the Palace at Visegrád. The well dates
ruins of the Dominican Church from the 14th-century rule of the
and Convent on Margaret Island Angevin dynasty.
in the Danube (see pp112–13).
Museum Guide
On the first floor is the Coronation
Mantle and the archaeological
exhibition. Second-floor exhibits
comprise Hungarian artifacts from the
11th to the 20th centuries. The lapidaries are
on the ground floor and in the basement.





Key
. Coronation Mantle . Golden Stag
This textile masterpiece, made This hand-forged Iron Coronation Mantle
of Byzantine silk, was donated Age figure dates from Archaeological exhibition
to the church in Székesfehérvár the 6th century BC. 11th- to 17th-century exhibition
by St István in 1031. It became It was originally
the Coronation Mantle in the Main part of a Scythian 18th- to 19th-century exhibition
12th century. entrance prince’s shield. 20th-century exhibition
For hotels and restaurants see pp264–269 and pp276–285


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CENTR AL PEST  103

Right Hand of Stalin
This hand is all that remains of the 8-m- VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
(26-ft-) high statue of Stalin that stood in
the Városliget in Budapest. A symbol Practical Information
of the Communist regime, Múzeum körút 14–16. Map 4 E1/
the statue was destroyed F1. Tel (1) 338 21 22 (327 77 73
in the Hungarian for guided tours in English).
Revolution of 1956. Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun. &
8 - = ∑ mnm.hu
Transport
v 47, 49. q Kálvin tér, Astoria.
@ 9, 15.




Pelisse
Second floor
This short jacket, dating
from around 1620, is
typical of Hungarian
national costume. It
belonged to Gábor
Bethlen, a prince
of Transylvania.











Gothic Well
These reconstructed fragments are
part of a well from the Royal
Palace at Visegrád. The well dates
from the 14th-century rule of the
Angevin dynasty.

Museum Guide
On the first floor is the Coronation
Mantle and the archaeological
exhibition. Second-floor exhibits
comprise Hungarian artifacts from the
11th to the 20th centuries. The lapidaries are
on the ground floor and in the basement.





Key
. Golden Stag
This hand-forged Iron Coronation Mantle
Age figure dates from Archaeological exhibition
the 6th century BC. 11th- to 17th-century exhibition
It was originally
part of a Scythian 18th- to 19th-century exhibition
prince’s shield. 20th-century exhibition




Hun_102-103_SS.indd 103 17/02/2015 12:55

104  BUD APEST AREA B Y AREA CENTR AL PEST  105

e Great Synagogue A large rose window is A Hebrew inscription u New Theatre
Zsinagóga flanked by two richly from the Second Book of Új Színház
Moses is situated under
decorated towers crowned
Dohány utca 2. Map 4 E1. Tel (1) 462 by distinctive onion domes. the rose window. Paulay Ede utca 35. Map 2 E5.
04 77. q Astoria. v 74. Jewish Tel (1) 269 60 21. q Opera.
Museum: Open 10am–6pm Sun–Thu
(to 8pm May–Sep; to 4pm Nov–Feb); Originally completed in 1909,
10am–4pm Fri (to 2pm Oct–Feb). The façade has white this building has undergone
& 8 and red bricks and many transformations. It was
intricately designed
ceramic friezes. designed by Béla Lajta in
The Great Synagogue is the the Secession style, and,
largest in Europe. Built in a as the home of the cabaret
Byzantine-Moorish style by troupe Parisian Mulató,
the Viennese architect Ludwig became a shrine to frivolity.
Förster in 1854–9, it has three In 1921 the building was
naves and, according to completely restyled by
orthodox tradition, separate László Vágó, who turned it
galleries for women. Together into a theatre. After World
the naves and galleries can War II, the theatre gained a
accommodate up to 3,000 glass-and-steel façade, and
worshippers. Some features, a children’s theatre company
such as the position of the was based here.
reading platform, reflect Feszl. In 1931, a museum Rome to the present day, has Between 1988 and 1990 the
elements of Judaic reform. The was estab lished, and a vast been assembled. It includes the building was returned to its
interior has valuable decorative collection of historical relics, book of Chevra Kadisha from original form, using Lajta’s plans.
fittings, particularly those on Judaic devotional items and 1792. There is also a haunting Gilding, stained glass and marble
the Ark of the Law, by Frigyes everyday objects, from ancient Holo caust Memorial Room. once more adorn this unusual
building. Today, Hungary’s New
r Jewish Quarter Theatre is in residence here.
Zsidó Negyed Holocaust Memorial i House of Terror
Király utca, Rumbach Sebestyén Imre Varga’s weeping willow sculpture was unveiled in 1991 in the Museum
utca, Dohány utca & Akácfa utca. rear courtyard of the Synagogue, in memory of the 600,000 Hungarian
Map 2 E5 & 2 F5. q Deák Ferenc Jews killed by the Nazis in World War II. It was part funded by Terror Háza Múzeum
tér, Astoria. the late US-Hungarian actor Tony Curtis. The Liszt Academy’s Grand Hall, with gilding restored to its 1907 magnificence Andrássy út 60. Map 2 F4. Tel (1) 374
26 00. q Vörösmarty utca. v 4, 6 to
Jews first came to Hungary in t New York Palace y Liszt Academy Oktogon. Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun.
the 13th century and settled of Music & ∑ terrorhaza.hu
in Buda and Óbuda. In the New York palota
19th century, a larger Jewish Erzsébet körút 9–11. Map 2 F5. Liszt Ferenc Zeneakadémia The museum records in graphic
community was established Tel (1) 886 61 11. q Blaha Lujza tér. Liszt Ferenc tér 8. Map 2 F4. detail the grim events that took
outside the Pest city boundary, v 4, 6.∑ budapest.boscolo Tel (1) 321 06 90. v 4, 6 to Király place here from 1936 – when
in a small area of Erzsébetváros. hotels.com utca. 8 by prior arrangement. the Arrow Cross (the Hungarian
In 1251, King Béla IV gave the ∑ lisztacademy.hu Nazi Party) took over the
Jews of Buda certain priviliges, Built in 1891–5 to a design by building as its headquarters –
including freedom of religion. the architect Alajos Hausz mann, The Academy is housed in a until 1956, when it was
The Jewish community became the New York Palace was once the late Historicist palace, built in turned into a club for Young
well integrated into Hungarian offices of an American insur ance 1904–7 by Kálmán Giergl and Communists. Set over three
society until, in 1941, a series of firm. Today it is a luxurious 5-star Flóris Korb. Above the main floors, the most chilling part of
anti-Semitic laws was passed by Hungary’s regent, Miklós Horthy, Synagogue on Rumbach utca hotel. The building displays an entrance there is a statue of the museum is the basement,
and the wearing of the Star of commemorates the thousands eclectic mix of Neo-Baroque and Ferenc (Franz) Liszt, by Alajos where the various types of
David was made compulsory. of Jews sent from Budapest. Secession motifs. The decorative Stróbl. The six bas-reliefs above prison cell have been recreated.
In 1944, a ghetto was created in In the late 19th century, sculptures that animate the façade its base are by Ede Telcs, and
the area around the Great three synagogues were built are the work of Károly Senyei. depict the history of music.
Synagogue and the deportation and many Jewish shops and On the ground floor is the Restoration has recreated
of thousands of Jews to camps, workshops were established. renowned New York Café. Its the Secessionist interior in
including Auschwitz, was Kosher businesses, such as walls are adorned with paintings all its original splendour,
implemented. After heavy the Hanna Étterem in the by Gusztáv Mann heimer and while also outfitting the
fighting between the Russian courtyard of the Orthodox Károly Lotz. The beautiful, richly per formance spaces with
and German armies, the Soviet Synagogue, and the butcher gilded Neo-Baroque interior, 21st-century technology.
Red Army liberated the ghetto at No. 41 Kazinczy utca, were with its grand chandeliers and The jewel is the ornate
on 18 January 1945. In total, a common feature. Shops, marble pillars, was once the Grand Hall, a world-famous
600,000 Hungarian Jews were galleries and cafés are now favourite haunt of literary and concert venue – not only
Detail of the Orthodox Synagogue, victims of the Holocaust. springing up, attracting young artistic circles, though today it for its beauty, but also because The House of Terror Museum, docu menting
built in Byzantine-Moorish style A plaque on the Orthodox locals and tourists. tends to attract mainly tourists. of its superb acoustics. tragic 20th-century events
For hotels and restaurants see pp264–269 and pp276–285


104-105_EW_Hungary.indd 104 18/09/17 3:39 pm 104-105_EW_Hungary.indd 105 18/09/17 3:39 pm

CENTR AL PEST  105

u New Theatre
Új Színház
Paulay Ede utca 35. Map 2 E5.
Tel (1) 269 60 21. q Opera.
Originally completed in 1909,
this building has undergone
many transformations. It was
designed by Béla Lajta in
the Secession style, and,
as the home of the cabaret
troupe Parisian Mulató,
became a shrine to frivolity.
In 1921 the building was
completely restyled by
László Vágó, who turned it
into a theatre. After World
War II, the theatre gained a
glass-and-steel façade, and
a children’s theatre company
was based here.
Between 1988 and 1990 the
building was returned to its
original form, using Lajta’s plans.
Gilding, stained glass and marble
once more adorn this unusual
building. Today, Hungary’s New
Theatre is in residence here.
i House of Terror
Museum
Terror Háza Múzeum
The Liszt Academy’s Grand Hall, with gilding restored to its 1907 magnificence Andrássy út 60. Map 2 F4. Tel (1) 374
26 00. q Vörösmarty utca. v 4, 6 to
t New York Palace y Liszt Academy Oktogon. Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun.
& ∑ terrorhaza.hu
New York palota of Music
Liszt Ferenc Zeneakadémia
Erzsébet körút 9–11. Map 2 F5. The museum records in graphic
Tel (1) 886 61 11. q Blaha Lujza tér. Liszt Ferenc tér 8. Map 2 F4. detail the grim events that took
v 4, 6.∑ budapest.boscolo Tel (1) 321 06 90. v 4, 6 to Király place here from 1936 – when
hotels.com utca. 8 by prior arrangement. the Arrow Cross (the Hungarian
∑ lisztacademy.hu Nazi Party) took over the
Built in 1891–5 to a design by building as its headquarters –
the architect Alajos Hausz mann, The Academy is housed in a until 1956, when it was
the New York Palace was once the late Historicist palace, built in turned into a club for Young
offices of an American insur ance 1904–7 by Kálmán Giergl and Communists. Set over three
firm. Today it is a luxurious 5-star Flóris Korb. Above the main floors, the most chilling part of
hotel. The building displays an entrance there is a statue of the museum is the basement,
eclectic mix of Neo-Baroque and Ferenc (Franz) Liszt, by Alajos where the various types of
Secession motifs. The decorative Stróbl. The six bas-reliefs above prison cell have been recreated.
sculptures that animate the façade its base are by Ede Telcs, and
are the work of Károly Senyei. depict the history of music.
On the ground floor is the Restoration has recreated
renowned New York Café. Its the Secessionist interior in
walls are adorned with paintings all its original splendour,
by Gusztáv Mann heimer and while also outfitting the
Károly Lotz. The beautiful, richly per formance spaces with
gilded Neo-Baroque interior, 21st-century technology.
with its grand chandeliers and The jewel is the ornate
marble pillars, was once the Grand Hall, a world-famous
favourite haunt of literary and concert venue – not only
artistic circles, though today it for its beauty, but also because The House of Terror Museum, docu menting
tends to attract mainly tourists. of its superb acoustics. tragic 20th-century events




104-105_EW_Hungary.indd 105 18/09/17 3:39 pm

BUD APEST AREA B Y AREA  107

FURTHER AFIELD

Many of Budapest’s greatest treasures are out out. North of Buda are the extensive ruins of
of the city centre. The city’s Art Nouveau zoo the Roman city of Aquincum, founded around
is found in the beautiful Városliget City Park. AD 100. To the west of the city, the beautiful
The vast Heroes’ Square opposite has two Eagle Hill nature reserve and, further out, the
outstanding art collections: the Museum of wooded Buda Hills attract nature-lovers. Out
Fine Arts and the Műcsarnok Palace of Art. to the east of Pest, the Jewish Cemetery is a
East of here a new museum honours the reminder of the vibrant Jewish community in
victims of Hungary’s Holo caust, while to the prewar Hungary, and the Memento Park to
west Margaret Island makes for a tranquil day the south is a surreal relic from Soviet days.



Sights at a Glance
Museums Churches Key
2 Museum of Fine Arts 1 St Anne’s Church Motorway
3 Műcsarnok Palace of Art Parks and Recreation Areas Main road
8 Aquincum 4 Városliget
0 Budapest Holocaust Memorial Other road
Centre 7 Margaret Island (pp112–3) Railway
q Palace of Arts w Eagle Hill Nature Reserve
e Buda Hills
Historic Buildings
and Monuments Cemeteries
5 Vajdahunyad Castle 9 Jewish Cemetery
6 Széchenyi Baths
r Memento Park (pp116–7)
0 kilometres 5
0 miles 3


Vác Hatvan
Esztergom Újpest M3
Danube (Duna) M3 Gödöllõ
11
Óbuda 2 M0
Újpalota
Angyalföld
Árpádföld
10
Zugliget Zugló
Nyugati pu. Sashalom
Fogaskerekû 3 Mátyásföld
Keleti pu.
Déli-pu. Józsefvárosi
pu. Rákos-patak
31
Sasad
4 Óhegy
Budaörs Jászberény
1
Kelenföld
Gyõr
M7 4
Albertfalva Kispest
Budapest
7 Pesterzsébet Ferenc Liszt
Airport
Budafok
Csepel Ráckevei
Danube (Duna) 510
Budatétény M5
6 Pestszentimre Cegléd
M0
Pécs Kecskemét
Turtles basking in the Japanese Garden on peaceful Margaret Island For keys to map symbols see back flap
Hun_106-107_intro.indd 106 17/02/2015 12:55 Hun_106-107_intro.indd 107 17/02/2015 12:55

BUD APEST AREA B Y AREA  107

FURTHER AFIELD

Many of Budapest’s greatest treasures are out out. North of Buda are the extensive ruins of
of the city centre. The city’s Art Nouveau zoo the Roman city of Aquincum, founded around
is found in the beautiful Városliget City Park. AD 100. To the west of the city, the beautiful
The vast Heroes’ Square opposite has two Eagle Hill nature reserve and, further out, the
outstanding art collections: the Museum of wooded Buda Hills attract nature-lovers. Out
Fine Arts and the Műcsarnok Palace of Art. to the east of Pest, the Jewish Cemetery is a
East of here a new museum honours the reminder of the vibrant Jewish community in
victims of Hungary’s Holo caust, while to the prewar Hungary, and the Memento Park to
west Margaret Island makes for a tranquil day the south is a surreal relic from Soviet days.



Sights at a Glance
Museums Churches Key
2 Museum of Fine Arts 1 St Anne’s Church Motorway
3 Műcsarnok Palace of Art Parks and Recreation Areas Main road
8 Aquincum 4 Városliget
0 Budapest Holocaust Memorial Other road
Centre 7 Margaret Island (pp112–3) Railway
q Palace of Arts w Eagle Hill Nature Reserve
e Buda Hills
Historic Buildings
and Monuments Cemeteries
5 Vajdahunyad Castle 9 Jewish Cemetery
6 Széchenyi Baths
r Memento Park (pp116–7)
0 kilometres 5
0 miles 3


Vác Hatvan
Esztergom Újpest M3
Danube (Duna) M3 Gödöllõ
11
Óbuda 2 M0
Újpalota
Angyalföld
Árpádföld
10
Zugliget Zugló
Nyugati pu. Sashalom
Fogaskerekû 3 Mátyásföld
Keleti pu.
Déli-pu. Józsefvárosi
pu. Rákos-patak
31
Sasad
4 Óhegy
Budaörs Jászberény
1
Kelenföld
Gyõr
M7 4
Albertfalva Kispest
Budapest
7 Pesterzsébet Ferenc Liszt
Airport
Budafok
Csepel Ráckevei
Danube (Duna) 510
Budatétény M5
6 Pestszentimre Cegléd
M0
Pécs Kecskemét
Turtles basking in the Japanese Garden on peaceful Margaret Island For keys to map symbols see back flap
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108  BUD APEST AREA B Y AREA FUR THER AFIELD  109

Street-by-Street: Around Heroes’ Square 6 . Széchenyi Baths
This is the largest complex of spa
Heroes’ Square is a relic of a proud era in baths in Europe. Its hot springs,
discovered in 1876, bubble up
Hungary’s history – it was here that the from a depth of 970 m (3,180 ft)
Millennium Celebrations opened in 1896. A and are reputed to have
striking example of this national pride is the considerable healing properties.
Millennium Monument. Its colonnades feature
statues of renowned Hungarian leaders and
politicians, and the grand central column is
crowned by a figure of the Archangel Gabriel. 4 Városliget
Vajdahunyad Castle was built in Városliget, or 2 . Museum of Fine Arts
City Park, adjacent to the square. Probably the This monumental museum building has Ják Chapel
most flamboyant expression of the celebrations, an eight-pillared portico supporting This chapel faithfully
it is composed of elements of the finest archi- a tympanum. reproduces the portal of a
tectural works found throughout Hungary. Benedictine church, dating
from 1214, which
can be found in the
area of Ják (see
p166), near the
border with
Austria. It is
Entrance to part of the
the zoo Vajdahunyad
Castle complex.








Millennium Monument
Dominating Heroes’ Square, this chariot is
one of a pair of monuments symbolizing
“War” and “Peace”, by György Zala.





3 Műcsarnok
Palace of Art
The crest of Hungary
decorates the façade Statue of Anonymus
of this building – the Completed in 1903 by Miklós Ligeti,
country’s largest venue this is one of Budapest’s most
for artistic exhibitions. famous monuments.

The Hungarian Millennium
Celebrations
The Millennium Celebrations in 1896 marked a high Secession
point in the development of Budapest and in the pavillon
history of the Austro-Hungarian monarchy. The city
underwent modernization on a scale unknown in
Europe at that time. Hundreds of houses, palaces and
civic buil dings were constructed, gas lighting was
introduced and continental Europe’s first KeyKey 5 . Vajdahunyad Castle
underground transport system was opened. Archangel Suggest 0 metres 200 This Baroque section of the
Suggested routeed route
Gabriel castle houses the Museum
0 yards 200 of Agriculture.
For hotels and restaurants see pp264–269 and pp276–285


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FUR THER AFIELD  109


6 . Széchenyi Baths
This is the largest complex of spa
baths in Europe. Its hot springs,
discovered in 1876, bubble up
from a depth of 970 m (3,180 ft)
and are reputed to have
considerable healing properties.



4 Városliget

Ják Chapel
This chapel faithfully
reproduces the portal of a
Benedictine church, dating
from 1214, which
can be found in the
area of Ják (see
p166), near the
border with
Austria. It is
part of the
Vajdahunyad
Castle complex.





















Statue of Anonymus
Completed in 1903 by Miklós Ligeti,
this is one of Budapest’s most
famous monuments.










Key 5 . Vajdahunyad Castle
This Baroque section of the
Suggested route 0 metres 200
castle houses the Museum
0 yards 200 of Agriculture.



Hun_108-109_SS.indd 109 17/02/2015 12:55

110  BUD APEST AREA B Y AREA FUR THER AFIELD  111

1 St Anne’s Church City Park was the centre for the
Szent Anna templom 1896 Millennium Cele brations
Batthyány tér 7. Map 1 B4. Tel (1) 201 (see p108), when the Museum
34 04. q Batthyány tér. Open Only of Fine Arts, Vajda hunyad
for services. 5 daily. Angelika Café: Castle and the Heroes’ Square
Open 9am–12pm daily. Monu ment were built.
Today, attractions include a
Budapest is home to many lake – an ice rink in winter and
churches, but the twin-towered a boating lake in summer –
Baroque parish church of the overlooked by a Secession
Víziváros district is one of Pavilion. The park is also home
the finest. Begun in 1740 by Kristóf to the Széchenyi Baths, Buda-
Hamon and completed after his pest’s zoo and Gundel Restau- One of the outdoor pools at the beautiful Széchenyi Baths
death by Mátyás Nepauer, it was A magnificently decorated ceiling at the Museum of Fine Arts rant, which opened in 1910 and
seri ously damaged by an earth- where the Gundel palacsinta, a The pavilions are grouped cattle-breeding, wine making,
quake in 1763. The dissolution enriched by donations and 3 Műcsarnok pancake, was invented. chrono logically by style, with hunting and fishing.
of the Jesuit order – which had acquisitions, and in 1906 it Palace of Art individual styles linked together
com missioned it – further moved to its present location, Műcsarnok 5 Vajdahunyad to give the impression of a
delayed completion. It remained a stunning Neo-Classical single, cohesive design. Each 6 Széchenyi Baths
unconsecrated until 1805. building with Italian Renais- Dózsa György út 37. Tel (1) 460 70 00. Castle of the pavilions uses authentic Széchenyi Strandfürdő
The church’s façade features sance influences designed q Hősök tere. Open 10am–6pm Vajdahunyadvár details copied from Hungary’s Állatkerti körút 11. v 72. Tel (1) 363
Buda’s coat of arms on the by Fülöp Herzog and Albert Tue–Sun, noon–8pm Thu. & 7 8 Városliget. Tel (1) 363 19 73. q most important historic build- 32 10. q Széchenyi fürdő. Swimming
tympanum, set between Schickedanz. The tympanum ∑ mucsarnok.hu Széchenyi fürdő. v 70, 72, 75, 79. ings or is a looser interpretation pool: Open 6am–10pm daily; Thermal
the magnificent Baroque crowning the portico is @ 4, 20, 30. Museum of Agriculture: of a style inspired by a specific pool: Open 6am–7pm daily. &
spires. Inside, the High Altar supported by eight Corinthian Situated on the southern side Tel (1) 363 11 17. Open Mid-Mar– architect of that period. The ∑ spasbudapest.hu
(1773) depicts Mary as a child columns. It depicts the Battle of Heroes’ Square, opposite mid-Oct: 10am–5pm Tue–Sun; mid- complex reflects more than
with St Anne, her mother. of the Centaurs and Lapiths, the Museum of Fine Arts, is Oct–mid-Mar: 10am–4pm Tue–Fri, 20 of Hungary’s most renowned A statue stands at the main
and is copied from the Temple Műcsarnok (Kunsthalle), the 10am–5pm Sat & Sun. & 7 8 buildings. The medieval period, entrance to the Széchenyi
of Zeus at Olympia, Greece. largest exhibition space in all of ∑ mmgm.hu often considered a glorious time Baths, depicting geologist
The museum’s collection Hungary. Temporary exhibitions in Hungary’s history, is emph- Vilmos Zsigmondy, who
encompasses a wide range of of mainly contemporary painting This fairytale-like building is asized, while the controversial discovered a hot spring here
art from antiquity to the 20th and sculpture are held here. located among the trees at the Habs burg era is not. while drilling a well in 1879.
century. Among the exhibition Designed by Albert edge of the lake in Városliget. The Romanesque complex The Széchenyi Baths are
of Egyptian artifacts, most of Schicke danz and Fülöp Not a genuine castle but a features a copy of the portal among the deepest and hottest
which were unearthed by Herzog in 1895, the complex of buildings reflecting from a church in Ják (see p109) in Budapest – the water reaches
Hungarian archaeo logists imposing Neo-Classical various architectural styles, it as well as a monastic cloister the surface at a temperature
during 19th-century building is fronted by was designed by Ignác Alpár and palace. The details on of 74–5° C (165° F). The springs,
excavations, the a vast six-columned for the 1896 Millennium the Gothic pavilion are taken rich in minerals, are known for
collection of bronze portico. The mosaic, Celebrations (see p108). from castles such as that in their alleged healing properties
figures from the New depicting St István as Alpár’s creation illustrated Segesvár (now in Romania). and are recommended for
Kingdom of Ptolemy is the patron saint of fine the history of architecture in The architect Fischer von Erlach treating rheumatism and
the most fascinating. The art, was added to the Hungary. Originally intended inspired the Renaissance and dis orders of the nervous system,
collection of Greek vases tympanum in 1938–41. as temporary exhibition Baroque complex. The façade joints and muscles. The spa,
is the highlight of the Behind the portico is pavilions, the castle proved copies part of the Bakócz housed in a Neo-Baroque
High Altar in St Anne’s Church, one of classical arti facts, along Grimani jug, a fresco by Lajos Deák- so popular with the public chapel in the Eszter gom building by Gyõzõ Czigler and
Károly Bebo’s finest works with the famous Grimani Museum of Fine Arts Ébner in three parts that, between 1904 and cathedral (see pp148–9). Ede Dvorzsák, was constructed
jug, which dates from entitled The Beginning 1906, it was rebuilt The Museum of Agriculture, in 1909–13. In 1926, three
the 5th century BC. of Sculpture, The Source of Arts using brick to create a in the Baroque section, has open-air swimming pools
2 Museum of A small bronze figure by and The Origins of Painting. permanent structure. interesting exhibits on were added. These are popular
Fine Arts Leonardo da Vinci is the all year round due to their high
Szépművészeti Múzeum highlight of the sculpture gallery, 4 Városliget water temperatures.
while the rich collection of
Dózsa György út 41. Tel (1) 469 71 00. Dutch and Flemish art features Városliget
q Hősök tere. v 75, 79. @ 4, 20, 30, the sublime St John the Baptist’s Városliget. q Hősök tere,
105. Open 10am–5:30pm Tue–Sun. Sermon, painted by Pieter Széchenyi fürdő.
& 7 8 = ∑ szepmuveszeti.hu Bruegel the Elder in 1566. Other
collections of note include Városliget, or City Park, was
The origins of the Museum Italian and Spanish art with once an area of marshland
of Fine Arts’ comprehensive works by Raphael, El Greco and used as a royal hunting ground.
collection date from 1870, when Goya, drawings and graphics Drained and planted during
the state bought a magnificent with items by Dürer, and 1 the reign of Maria Theresa, the
collection of paintings from the 9th- and 20th-century works park was designed and laid out
aristocratic Esterházy family. by Pablo Picasso as well as gems in the English style in the late
The museum’s collection was from the French Impressionists. 19th century. View across the lake of the Gothic (left) and Renaissance (right) sections of Vajdahunyad Castle
For hotels and restaurants see pp264–269 and pp276–285


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FUR THER AFIELD  111


City Park was the centre for the
1896 Millennium Cele brations
(see p108), when the Museum
of Fine Arts, Vajda hunyad
Castle and the Heroes’ Square
Monu ment were built.
Today, attractions include a
lake – an ice rink in winter and
a boating lake in summer –
overlooked by a Secession
Pavilion. The park is also home
to the Széchenyi Baths, Buda-
pest’s zoo and Gundel Restau- One of the outdoor pools at the beautiful Széchenyi Baths
rant, which opened in 1910 and
where the Gundel palacsinta, a The pavilions are grouped cattle-breeding, wine making,
pancake, was invented. chrono logically by style, with hunting and fishing.
individual styles linked together
5 Vajdahunyad to give the impression of a 6 Széchenyi Baths
Castle single, cohesive design. Each Széchenyi Strandfürdő
of the pavilions uses authentic
Vajdahunyadvár details copied from Hungary’s Állatkerti körút 11. v 72. Tel (1) 363
Városliget. Tel (1) 363 19 73. q most important historic build- 32 10. q Széchenyi fürdő. Swimming
Széchenyi fürdő. v 70, 72, 75, 79. ings or is a looser interpretation pool: Open 6am–10pm daily; Thermal
@ 4, 20, 30. Museum of Agriculture: of a style inspired by a specific pool: Open 6am–7pm daily. &
Tel (1) 363 11 17. Open Mid-Mar– architect of that period. The ∑ spasbudapest.hu
mid-Oct: 10am–5pm Tue–Sun; mid- complex reflects more than
Oct–mid-Mar: 10am–4pm Tue–Fri, 20 of Hungary’s most renowned A statue stands at the main
10am–5pm Sat & Sun. & 7 8 buildings. The medieval period, entrance to the Széchenyi
∑ mmgm.hu often considered a glorious time Baths, depicting geologist
in Hungary’s history, is emph- Vilmos Zsigmondy, who
This fairytale-like building is asized, while the controversial discovered a hot spring here
located among the trees at the Habs burg era is not. while drilling a well in 1879.
edge of the lake in Városliget. The Romanesque complex The Széchenyi Baths are
Not a genuine castle but a features a copy of the portal among the deepest and hottest
complex of buildings reflecting from a church in Ják (see p109) in Budapest – the water reaches
various architectural styles, it as well as a monastic cloister the surface at a temperature
was designed by Ignác Alpár and palace. The details on of 74–5° C (165° F). The springs,
for the 1896 Millennium the Gothic pavilion are taken rich in minerals, are known for
Celebrations (see p108). from castles such as that in their alleged healing properties
Alpár’s creation illustrated Segesvár (now in Romania). and are recommended for
the history of architecture in The architect Fischer von Erlach treating rheumatism and
Hungary. Originally intended inspired the Renaissance and dis orders of the nervous system,
as temporary exhibition Baroque complex. The façade joints and muscles. The spa,
pavilions, the castle proved copies part of the Bakócz housed in a Neo-Baroque
so popular with the public chapel in the Eszter gom building by Gyõzõ Czigler and
that, between 1904 and cathedral (see pp148–9). Ede Dvorzsák, was constructed
1906, it was rebuilt The Museum of Agriculture, in 1909–13. In 1926, three
using brick to create a in the Baroque section, has open-air swimming pools
permanent structure. interesting exhibits on were added. These are popular
all year round due to their high
water temperatures.












View across the lake of the Gothic (left) and Renaissance (right) sections of Vajdahunyad Castle




110-111_EW_Hungary.indd 111 18/09/17 3:39 pm

112  BUD APEST AREA B Y AREA FUR THER AFIELD  113

7 Margaret Island . Japanese Garden VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
One of three landscaped
Inhabited as far back as Roman times, Margaret Island parks on Margaret Island, Practical Information
the Japanese Garden features
(Margitsziget) is a car-free, tranquil oasis in the middle a wide range of flora as well Margitsziget, Budapest.
of the Danube, a beautiful green space that has been as ponds and waterfalls, rock Map 2 D1. Danubius Grand Hotel
Margit sziget: Tel (1) 889 47 00.
open to the public since 1869. The 3-km (2-mile) long gardens and playgrounds. Palatinus Strand Baths: Tel (820)
island served as a popular hunting ground for medi- 212 98 73. Open May–Aug:
eval kings, while monks were drawn to its peaceful 9am–7pm; Sep: 10am–6pm. &
setting. During Turkish rule it was used as a harem. Transport
In the 1200s Princess Margaret, daughter of Béla IV, v 4, 6. @ 26 from Nyugati
spent most of her life as a recluse in the former Station.
convent here, and the island is named after her.
Today Margaret Island still offers the perfect
escape after sightseeing in the busy city. Palatinus Strand
Opened in 1919, this is the largest
outdoor swimming pool in
Budapest. Its lush, grassy
Franciscan Church sunbathing areas and
Little remains of this early playgrounds make it especially
14th-century church, which was popular with families. Bodor Well
abandoned in the 16th century. This musical well, built in
Yet the ruins, which include a 1936, is a copy of the
glorious arched window and original which stood in
stair case, hint at its former size. Târgu Mureş (today
in Romania). On the hour,
it plays gentle music.









0 metres 150
0 yards 150

Danubius Grand Hotel Margitsziget
Margaret Island’s This plush hotel, built in Neo-Renaissance style to designs
Bicycles by Miklós Ybl, was opened in 1873. For almost four decades
There is no better it was the most fashionable hotel in the city, attracting
way to explore the aristocracy from all over Europe.
car-free island
than hiring one
of these family- Princess Margit
sized bicycles.
King Béla IV (see p40) swore that if he succeeded in repel ling the
Mongol invasion of 1241, he would offer his daughter to God.
He kept his oath, sending his nine-year-old
daughter Margit (Margaret) to the St Michael’s
Church and convent, which he built on the
KEY island. She led a pious and ascetic life, and
at the age of 29 died on the island, which
1 Margit Bridge . Centenary Monument today carries her name.
2 Music fountain This monument was . Water Tower The ruin of the 13th-century convent in
3 Hajós Olympic Pool Complex erected in 1973 to This unique 57-m (187-ft) which Margit spent 20 years of her life is
probably the most important monument
4 Margitsziget Small Zoo celebrate a century of tower was built in 1911 to on the island. A marble plaque in the
united Budapest, the cities provide clean water for the
5 St Michael’s Church of Buda, Pest and Óbuda island’s hotel. Protected by nave of the convent church ruins marks St Margit – stained-glass
window, Gellért Hotel
6 Árpád Bridge having merged in 1873. It UNESCO, it offers great views the spot where she is buried.
was designed by István Kiss. from its Lookout Gallery.
For hotels and restaurants see pp264–269 and pp276–285

112-113_EW_Hungary.indd 112 18/09/17 3:39 pm 112-113_EW_Hungary.indd 113 18/09/17 3:39 pm

FUR THER AFIELD  113


. Japanese Garden VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
One of three landscaped
parks on Margaret Island, Practical Information
the Japanese Garden features Margitsziget, Budapest.
a wide range of flora as well Map 2 D1. Danubius Grand Hotel
as ponds and waterfalls, rock Margit sziget: Tel (1) 889 47 00.
gardens and playgrounds. Palatinus Strand Baths: Tel (820)
212 98 73. Open May–Aug:
9am–7pm; Sep: 10am–6pm. &
Transport
v 4, 6. @ 26 from Nyugati
Station.








Bodor Well
This musical well, built in
1936, is a copy of the
original which stood in
Târgu Mureş (today
in Romania). On the hour,
it plays gentle music.









0 metres 150
0 yards 150

Danubius Grand Hotel Margitsziget
This plush hotel, built in Neo-Renaissance style to designs
by Miklós Ybl, was opened in 1873. For almost four decades
it was the most fashionable hotel in the city, attracting
aristocracy from all over Europe.


Princess Margit
King Béla IV (see p40) swore that if he succeeded in repel ling the
Mongol invasion of 1241, he would offer his daughter to God.
He kept his oath, sending his nine-year-old
daughter Margit (Margaret) to the St Michael’s
Church and convent, which he built on the
island. She led a pious and ascetic life, and
at the age of 29 died on the island, which
today carries her name.
The ruin of the 13th-century convent in
. Water Tower which Margit spent 20 years of her life is
This unique 57-m (187-ft) probably the most important monument
tower was built in 1911 to on the island. A marble plaque in the
provide clean water for the nave of the convent church ruins marks St Margit – stained-glass
island’s hotel. Protected by the spot where she is buried. window, Gellért Hotel
UNESCO, it offers great views
from its Lookout Gallery.




112-113_EW_Hungary.indd 113 18/09/17 3:39 pm

114  BUD APEST AREA B Y AREA FUR THER AFIELD  115

e Buda Hills
community. At the end of
the 19th century, nearly a Budai-hegység
quarter of the city’s inhabit ants q Széll Kálmán tér, then v 56, then
were Jewish. Tombs to look cog-wheel railway and chair lift.
out for as you stroll among
the graves include that of the To the west of the city centre
Wellisch family, designed in are the wooded Buda Hills.
1903 by Arthur Wellisch, and There are many caves here,
that of Konrád Polnay, which including Szemlőhegyi and
was designed five years later Pálvölgyi-barlang.
by Gyula Fodor. Perhaps the The first station of a
most eye catching of all tombs cog- wheel railway, built in
belongs to the Schmidl family. 1874, is on Szilágyi Erzsébet
The startlingly flamboyant fasor. This runs up Sváb Hill –
edifice, designed in 1903 named after the Germanic
by Hungary’s prominent Foyer in the Palace of Arts, a multi-arts performance venue Swabians, who settled here
architects Ödön Lechner and under the Habsburgs (see pp44–5)
Béla Lajta, is covered in vivid q Palace of Arts fence of the wild and craggy – and then Széchenyi Hill.
The excavations of the Roman town Aquincum and the museum turquoise ceramic tiles. The (MÜPA) 300-sq-m (360-sq-yd) reserve From Széchenyi Hill a
central mosaic in green and Művészetek Palotája that it encloses. It is worth taking narrow-gauge railway covers
8 Aquincum drainage system. The sanctuaries gold tiles represents the the guided walk in the reserve, a 12-km (7-mile) route to the
Aquincum of the goddesses Epona and Tree of Life. Komor Marcell utca 1. v 1, 2, 2A, 24. parti cularly in spring or early Hűvös Valley. As in the days
Fortuna can also be seen. Ticket office (for all events): Tel (1) 555 autumn. This is one of the only of the Soviet Young Pioneers
Szentendrei út 135. Tel (81) 430 10 81. 33 00 or online. Open 10am–6pm
£ Aquincum. @ 34, 42, 106. On the other side of the hév 0 Budapest daily. 8 ∑ mupa.hu Museum of places to see the endangered movement, the railway is staffed
Archeological park: Open Apr–Oct: railway line, the remains of an Holocaust Contemporary Art: Tel (1) 555 34 44. Centaurea sadleriana, a flower by children, apart from the adult
9am–6pm Tue–Sun; Nov–Mar: subject amphi theatre are visible, where Memorial Centre Open 10am–8pm Tue–Sun. that resembles a cornflower but train drivers. At the top of János
to weather. Exhibitions: Open Apr– the town’s inhabitants once ∑ ludwigmuseum.hu with a much larger flower head. Hill stands the Erzsébet Look-
Oct: 10am–6pm Tue–Sun; Nov–Mar: sought entertainment. Holokauszt Emlékközpont The reserve is also home to a Out Tower, designed by Frigyes
10am–4pm Tue–Sun. 8 & Páva utca 39. Tel (1) 455 33 33. The Palace of Arts, located in the blue grass and a spider found Schulek in 1910. A chair lift
∑ aquincum.hu Millennium City Centre on the Pest nowhere else in the world, as connects János Hill with
9 Jewish Cemetery q Ferenc körút. @ 4, 6, 30, 30A. side of the Danube, between well as extra ordinary, colourful Zugligeti út and this is a good
The remains of the Roman town Zsidó temető Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun. Lágymányos Bridge and the butterflies and a rare lizard. way of making the descent.
∑ hdke.hu
of Aquincum were excavated Kozma utca 6. @ 37. new National Theatre, brings
at the end of the 19th century. This outstanding memorial together all the arts under one
Visitors today are free to stroll Next door to the Municipal centre is dedicated to the tens roof. Permanent residents in
along its streets, viewing the Cemetery is the Jewish of thousands of Hungarians the palace include the Ludwig
outlines of temples, baths, Cemetery, opened in 1893. deported from the Budapest Museum of Con tem porary Art,
shops and houses, in what was The many grand tombs here Ghetto to Auschwitz in the the Béla Bartók National Concert
once the centre of the town. are a vivid reminder of the latter stages of World War II. Hall, the Festival Theatre and the
The civilian town of Aquincum, vigour and Housed in a former synagogue, National Dance Theatre.
capital of the Roman province success of the exhibition tells of the fate
of Pannonia Inferior, was founded Budapest’s suffered by Hungarian Jews, w Eagle Hill Nature
at the beginning of the 2nd prewar Gypsies and other victims. Reserve
century AD, a couple of decades Jewish The most moving part of
after a legionary fortress had the memorial is the former Sas-hegy Természetvédelmi Terület
been established to its south. main prayer hall, given over Tájék utca 26. Tel (30) 477 67 20, (30)
For centuries, it was the largest to the photos of members 408 43 70. @ 8, 8A. Open 10am–6pm
city in central Europe. of the congregation who Tue, Fri–Sun & pub hols, or by
In the centre of the site a once worshipped here. arrangement. 8 compulsory.
museum is housed in a Neo- The 8-m- (24-ft-) high
Classical lapidarium displaying glass wall around the A nature reserve such as
the most valuable Roman centre, designed by this that is close to the
archaeological finds from the László Zsótér, is centre of a large city is a
area. The items on display inscribed with the remark able phenomenon.
include weapons and various names of all Hun- Access to the summit of
inscribed stone monuments. garians known to this steep, 266-m- (872-ft-)
Only a fraction of the former have died in the high hill to the west of Gellért
town is open to visitors today, but Shoah. It allows Hill (see pp73) is strictly regulated
it is nonetheless impressive with new names to be to protect the extremely rare
its remarkable central heating added; the goal is animal and plant species found
system based on hot air circu- one day to have a here. A smart residential quar ter
lated under mosaic floors. A drain complete list of all of attractive bourgeois villas,
cover is evidence that there who perished in which lies on the lower slope of
was a good water supply and Schmidl family tomb at the Jewish Cemetery the Holocaust. Eagle Hill, extends almost to the The Erzsébet Look-Out Tower at the summit of János Hill, Buda Hills
For hotels and restaurants see pp264–269 and pp276–285


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FUR THER AFIELD  115

e Buda Hills
Budai-hegység
q Széll Kálmán tér, then v 56, then
cog-wheel railway and chair lift.
To the west of the city centre
are the wooded Buda Hills.
There are many caves here,
including Szemlőhegyi and
Pálvölgyi-barlang.
The first station of a
cog- wheel railway, built in
1874, is on Szilágyi Erzsébet
fasor. This runs up Sváb Hill –
named after the Germanic
Foyer in the Palace of Arts, a multi-arts performance venue Swabians, who settled here
under the Habsburgs (see pp44–5)
q Palace of Arts fence of the wild and craggy – and then Széchenyi Hill.
(MÜPA) 300-sq-m (360-sq-yd) reserve From Széchenyi Hill a
Művészetek Palotája that it encloses. It is worth taking narrow-gauge railway covers
the guided walk in the reserve, a 12-km (7-mile) route to the
Komor Marcell utca 1. v 1, 2, 2A, 24. parti cularly in spring or early Hűvös Valley. As in the days
Ticket office (for all events): Tel (1) 555 autumn. This is one of the only of the Soviet Young Pioneers
33 00 or online. Open 10am–6pm places to see the endangered movement, the railway is staffed
daily. 8 ∑ mupa.hu Museum of Centaurea sadleriana, a flower by children, apart from the adult
Contemporary Art: Tel (1) 555 34 44.
Open 10am–8pm Tue–Sun. that resembles a cornflower but train drivers. At the top of János
∑ ludwigmuseum.hu with a much larger flower head. Hill stands the Erzsébet Look-
The reserve is also home to a Out Tower, designed by Frigyes
The Palace of Arts, located in the blue grass and a spider found Schulek in 1910. A chair lift
Millennium City Centre on the Pest nowhere else in the world, as connects János Hill with
side of the Danube, between well as extra ordinary, colourful Zugligeti út and this is a good
Lágymányos Bridge and the butterflies and a rare lizard. way of making the descent.
new National Theatre, brings
together all the arts under one
roof. Permanent residents in
the palace include the Ludwig
Museum of Con tem porary Art,
the Béla Bartók National Concert
Hall, the Festival Theatre and the
National Dance Theatre.
w Eagle Hill Nature
Reserve
Sas-hegy Természetvédelmi Terület
Tájék utca 26. Tel (30) 477 67 20, (30)
408 43 70. @ 8, 8A. Open 10am–6pm
Tue, Fri–Sun & pub hols, or by
arrangement. 8 compulsory.
A nature reserve such as
this that is close to the
centre of a large city is a
remark able phenomenon.
Access to the summit of
this steep, 266-m- (872-ft-)
high hill to the west of Gellért
Hill (see pp73) is strictly regulated
to protect the extremely rare
animal and plant species found
here. A smart residential quar ter
of attractive bourgeois villas,
which lies on the lower slope of
Eagle Hill, extends almost to the The Erzsébet Look-Out Tower at the summit of János Hill, Buda Hills




114-115_EW_Hungary.indd 115 18/09/17 3:39 pm

116  BUD APEST AREA B Y AREA FUR THER AFIELD  117

r Memento Park Captain Steinmetz VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
In December 1944, the Hungarian-born
Soviet Red Army Captain Miklós Steinmetz
During Communist rule, Socialist Realism was the artistic delivered the Ultimátum with the proposed Practical Information
Balatoni út & Szabadkai utca,
movement, resulting in some of the most striking terms for surrender from the Soviet troops District 22, Budapest. Road
sculpture of the 20th century. While most of the other to the Germans occupying Map D3. Tel (1) 424 75 00.
former Soviet-bloc countries iconoclastically toppled Budapest. He was shot while Open Apr–Oct: 10am–dusk
returning to Soviet lines.
their Socialist statuary as soon as they had toppled their daily; Nov–Mar: 10am–4pm daily.
& = ∑ mementopark.hu
Socialist leaders, the more reflective Hungarians decided Transport
to preserve these unique public works of art, which until @ 101B, 101E, 150 from Kelenföld
1989 had stood in the country’s major public squares. Metro station (M4).
The propagandist statues, some of which were erected Béla Kun Memorial . Hungarian Fighters in the
as late as the mid-1980s, are now displayed in this, Béla Kun was a Hungarian Communist Spanish International
who briefly ran the country in 1919
Brigades Memorial
Europe’s most unusual theme park of Communism. after leading a Russian-backed This monument honours the
Communist coup. Kun’s regime was Hungarian contingent of
quickly overthrown by nationalist the many European revolution-
Hungarian-Soviet forces led by Admiral Horthy, however,
Friendship Memorial and Kun fled to Russia. aries who flocked to Spain
A Hungarian worker greets a to fight there in the
Red Army officer with a 1936–9 Civil War.
hand shake in this classic
piece of Soviet agitprop.









. Workers’ Movement
Memorial
Two monstrously large
hands are about to clasp
a globe, and with it the
working class of the world.


The Trabant 601
Few objects symbolise life in socialist Central-Eastern
Europe better than the plastic-bodied Trabant. This
little car, produced in East Germany between 1957–
1990 with almost no change in shape or specifications,
was once a continual presence on the roads of the
socialist block. Although the Trabant was a small,
uncomfortable, slow and fragile car, it was much
Karl Marx and Stalin’s loved by those who were finally able to buy one
Friedrich Engels tribute after spending decades on the waiting lists.
The authors of The
Communist Manifesto
stand together in a
large archway.
. Main Entrance
The monumental main Lenin
entrance and the austere Vladimir Lenin (1870–
wall that surrounds the 1924), leader of the 1917
KEY park are designed to Revolution and first head
remind visitors of the of the Soviet state, points
1 Souvenir shop restrictive nature of the way to a bright The iconic Trabant car at Memento Park
the Iron Curtain. Socialist future.
For hotels and restaurants see pp264–269 and pp276–285


116-117_EW_Hungary.indd 116 18/09/17 3:37 pm 116-117_EW_Hungary.indd 117 18/09/17 3:37 pm

FUR THER AFIELD  117

Captain Steinmetz
In December 1944, the Hungarian-born VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Soviet Red Army Captain Miklós Steinmetz Practical Information
delivered the Ultimátum with the proposed Balatoni út & Szabadkai utca,
terms for surrender from the Soviet troops District 22, Budapest. Road
to the Germans occupying Map D3. Tel (1) 424 75 00.
Budapest. He was shot while Open Apr–Oct: 10am–dusk
returning to Soviet lines. daily; Nov–Mar: 10am–4pm daily.
& = ∑ mementopark.hu
Transport
@ 101B, 101E, 150 from Kelenföld
Metro station (M4).
. Hungarian Fighters in the
Spanish International
Brigades Memorial
This monument honours the
Hungarian contingent of
the many European revolution-
aries who flocked to Spain
to fight there in the
1936–9 Civil War.














. Workers’ Movement
Memorial
Two monstrously large
hands are about to clasp
a globe, and with it the
working class of the world.


The Trabant 601
Few objects symbolise life in socialist Central-Eastern
Europe better than the plastic-bodied Trabant. This
little car, produced in East Germany between 1957–
1990 with almost no change in shape or specifications,
was once a continual presence on the roads of the
socialist block. Although the Trabant was a small,
uncomfortable, slow and fragile car, it was much
loved by those who were finally able to buy one
after spending decades on the waiting lists.




Lenin
Vladimir Lenin (1870–
1924), leader of the 1917
Revolution and first head
of the Soviet state, points
the way to a bright The iconic Trabant car at Memento Park
Socialist future.




116-117_EW_Hungary.indd 117 18/09/17 3:37 pm

118  BUD APEST SHOPPING IN BUD APEST  119

SHOPPING IN BUDAPEST are looking for handmade utca and on Váci utca (Váci
items in particular, head for Street, see pp96–7). Moró Antik
Shopping in Budapest has changed do their shopping. For local goods, a visit Tekla Folklór. is a tiny shop specializing in
dramatically in recent years. Despite price to one of Budapest’s many markets is 18th-century weapons. The
rises since the return to a free-market recommended. These range in style from Porcelain and Antiques huge Nagyházi Gallery sells
economy, many Hungarian goods still stunning 19th-century food halls, such as Dominated by 18th- and 19th- every thing from jewellery to
furniture. Buda pest’s flea mar-
represent good value for visitors. the Great Market Hall (Nagy Vásárcsarnok), century pieces in the Habs burg kets are good places to hunt
Major shopping streets include elegant, to second-hand markets, such as the style, the Budapest antiques for collectibles.
pedestrianized Váci Street (see pp96–7), huge and lively Ecseri Flea Market, where scene is concentrated in the If looking to buy genuine
good for folk art, and the less fashionable everything from bric-a-brac to furniture Castle District, around Falk Miksa Herend and Zsolnay porcelain,
but better-value Nagykörút, where locals and antiques can be found. there are several outlets in
Budapest. The Hollóházi porce-
lain factory also has a shop. WestEnd City Center, central Europe’s
Opening Hours markets. The three­level Central largest shopping mall
Most shops in Budapest open Market Hall (Nagy Vásár csar nok) Clothes and Shoes Music
9am–5:30pm or 6pm Mon day on Fővám tér is the largest. Here,
to Friday, and 9am–1pm on more than 180 stalls display Made-to-measure clothes and Hungary’s rich musical traditions
Saturday. Depart ment stores a huge range of foods under shoes, as well as ready-made make for tempting low-priced
open at 10am, while green­ a gleaming roof of coloured designer clothes, offer some of items to buy. Good-quality CDs
grocers, bakeries and super­ Zsolnay tiles. The market opens the best deals to be had in the and music DVDs are mostly now
markets are open 7am–8pm. from 6am to 6pm Monday– capital. Clothes can be made up found in bookshops, both new
Indoor markets and depart­ Friday and 6am to 3pm Saturday. by a local designer in a choice and second-hand, although the
ment stores currently open Other markets to explore are in of fabrics – often for a modest specialist Rózsa völgyi Zene-
on Sunday, although a ban on Fehérvári út and Fény utca. fee. At the top end, Naray műbolt remains, and is great for
Sunday opening is a regular Beginning at 156 Nagykőrösi Tamas Atelier is the show case traditional gypsy and village folk
topic for political debate. Many út in district XIX, tables at the for one of Hungary’s most music, as well as orchestral
small shops selling groceries are Smoked sausages on display at the Central vast outside Ecseri Flea Market celebrated designers. Shoe- works. The Alexandra Book
open 24 hours a day, although Market Hall are covered in Communist makers Vass offer handmade House (and its palatial café) is in
in many districts alcohol can artifacts, second­hand clothes men’s shoes, but they are Párisi Nagyáruház, once a stylish
only be sold until 10pm. WestEnd City Center, with over and bric­a­brac. Traditional folk costumes, on sale from expensive and can take some department store with a
350 stores, near the centre of the a street vendor time to make. wonderful Art Nouveau façade.
city, is worth a visit. Locals tend
Department Stores and to shop at out­of­town malls, Food and Drink DIRECTORY
Shopping Centres where parking is easier, although Hungarian paprika, a wide variety
Since the late 1990s, more than stylish Mammut on Széll Kálmán of spicy salamis and other fine Department Ecseri Flea Market Folk Art Antiques
20 department buildings and malls tér is frequented by more foodstuffs, such as goose liver Stores and Nagykőrösi út 156. Moró Antik
have opened in Budapest. Origin­ affluent Buda residents. pâté, are widely available in the Shopping Centres Tel (1) 282 95 63. Tekla Folklór Falk Miksa utca 13. Map 2
ally drawing scepticism, depart­ city’s many lively markets, Váci utca 58. Map 4 D1. D3. Tel (1) 311 08 14.
ment stores, such as Arena Plaza, Markets supermarkets and smaller deli­ Arena Plaza Fehérvári út Market Tel (1) 486 00 58.
Kerepesi út 9.
have proved popular with the catessens. Visitors wishing to Fehérvári út 20. Nagyházi Gallery
Hungarian populace. Pro viding Markets are an essential part of buy – and sample – Hungary’s Tel (1) 880 70 10. Porcelain Balaton utca 8. Map 2 D3.
a wealth of well­established life in Budapest. Perhaps the most regional wines, including the ∑ arenaplaza.hu Fény utca Market Tel (1) 475 60 00.
European and international brands, spectacular are the five cavern­ golden Tokaji, should head for Mammut I–II Mall Near Széll Kálmán tér. Herend Shops
the shopping centres normally ous market halls around the city. Borház in Pest’s Jókai tér or Lövőház utca 2–6 & Széll József Nádor tér 11. Clothes and Shoes
sell men’s and women’s clothing, All were built in the late 19th cen­ La Boutique des Vins in József Kálmán tér. Map 1 A3. Map 1 A4. Map 2 D5. Tel (1) 317 26 22. Naray Tamas Atelier
accessories and perfumes. tury and several are still used as Attila utca, which stock a superb Tel (1) 345 80 20. Hajós utca 17. Map 2 E4.
selection from all over the coun­ ∑ mammut.hu Food and Drink Szentháromság utca 5. Tel (1) 266 24 73.
try. Hungary’s apricot and plum Map 1 B5.
liqueurs and brandy (pálinka) WestEnd City Center Borház Tel (1) 225 10 50/51. Vass Shoes
can be purchased at House of Váci út 1–3. Jókai tér 7. Andrássy út 16. Map 2 E4. Haris köz 2. Map 4 D1.
Hungarian Pálinka in Rákóczi út. Map 2 E3. Map 2 E4. Tel (1) 374 00 06. Tel (1) 318 23 75.
Tel (1) 238 77 77.
Tel (1) 353 48 49. Music
Folk Art Markets La Boutique des Vins Hollóházi Shop
Hungarian folk art such as Budapest Flea Market József Attila utca 12. Rákóczi út 31. Alexandra Book House
Párisi Nagyáruház ,
Map 4 E1.
embroidered peasant blouses Zichy Mihály utca 14.
and wooden carvings are still Tel (20) 933 39 79. Map 2 D5. Tel (1) 317 59 19. Tel (1) 413 14 63. Andrássy út 39. Map 2 E4.
Tel (1) 484 80 00.
produced in many rural areas House of Hungarian Zsolnay Shop
and sold in the capital. These Central Market Hall Pálinka Rózsavölgyi
can be found at flea markets Vámház körút 1–3 Kecskeméti utca 14. Zenemübolt
around Moszkva tér and (Fővám tér). Map 4 E2. Rákóczi út 17. Map 4 Map 4 E2. Szervita tér 5. Map 4 D1.
Parliament or the top floor of Tel (1) 366 33 00. E1/2. Tel (1) 338 42 19. Tel (1) 318 26 43. Tel (1) 318 35 00.
A small wine merchant, selling wines from Hungary’s regions the Central Market Hall. If you


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SHOPPING IN BUD APEST  119


are looking for handmade utca and on Váci utca (Váci
items in particular, head for Street, see pp96–7). Moró Antik
Tekla Folklór. is a tiny shop specializing in
18th-century weapons. The
huge Nagyházi Gallery sells
Porcelain and Antiques
every thing from jewellery to
Dominated by 18th- and 19th- furniture. Buda pest’s flea mar-
century pieces in the Habs burg kets are good places to hunt
style, the Budapest antiques for collectibles.
scene is concentrated in the If looking to buy genuine
Castle District, around Falk Miksa Herend and Zsolnay porcelain,
there are several outlets in
Budapest. The Hollóházi porce-
lain factory also has a shop. WestEnd City Center, central Europe’s
largest shopping mall
Clothes and Shoes Music
Made-to-measure clothes and Hungary’s rich musical traditions
shoes, as well as ready-made make for tempting low-priced
designer clothes, offer some of items to buy. Good-quality CDs
the best deals to be had in the and music DVDs are mostly now
capital. Clothes can be made up found in bookshops, both new
by a local designer in a choice and second-hand, although the
of fabrics – often for a modest specialist Rózsa völgyi Zene-
fee. At the top end, Naray műbolt remains, and is great for
Tamas Atelier is the show case traditional gypsy and village folk
for one of Hungary’s most music, as well as orchestral
celebrated designers. Shoe- works. The Alexandra Book
makers Vass offer handmade House (and its palatial café) is in
men’s shoes, but they are Párisi Nagyáruház, once a stylish
Traditional folk costumes, on sale from expensive and can take some department store with a
a street vendor time to make. wonderful Art Nouveau façade.
DIRECTORY
Department Ecseri Flea Market Folk Art Antiques
Stores and Nagykőrösi út 156.
Shopping Centres Tekla Folklór Moró Antik
Tel (1) 282 95 63. Váci utca 58. Map 4 D1. Falk Miksa utca 13. Map 2
Arena Plaza Fehérvári út Market Tel (1) 486 00 58. D3. Tel (1) 311 08 14.
Kerepesi út 9. Nagyházi Gallery
Tel (1) 880 70 10. Fehérvári út 20. Porcelain Balaton utca 8. Map 2 D3.
∑ arenaplaza.hu Fény utca Market Tel (1) 475 60 00.
Mammut I–II Mall Near Széll Kálmán tér. Herend Shops
Lövőház utca 2–6 & Széll Map 1 A4. József Nádor tér 11. Clothes and Shoes
Kálmán tér. Map 1 A3. Map 2 D5. Tel (1) 317 26 22. Naray Tamas Atelier
Tel (1) 345 80 20. Food and Drink Szentháromság utca 5. Hajós utca 17. Map 2 E4.
∑ mammut.hu Tel (1) 266 24 73.
Map 1 B5.
WestEnd City Center Borház Tel (1) 225 10 50/51. Vass Shoes
Váci út 1–3. Jókai tér 7. Andrássy út 16. Map 2 E4. Haris köz 2. Map 4 D1.
Map 2 E3. Map 2 E4. Tel (1) 318 23 75.
Tel (1) 238 77 77. Tel (1) 374 00 06.
Tel (1) 353 48 49. Music
Markets La Boutique des Vins Hollóházi Shop
Rákóczi út 31.
Budapest Flea Market József Attila utca 12. Map 4 E1. Alexandra Book House
Párisi Nagyáruház ,
Zichy Mihály utca 14. Map 2 D5. Tel (1) 317 59 19. Tel (1) 413 14 63. Andrássy út 39. Map 2 E4.
Tel (20) 933 39 79. Tel (1) 484 80 00.
House of Hungarian Zsolnay Shop
Central Market Hall Rózsavölgyi
Vámház körút 1–3 Pálinka Kecskeméti utca 14. Zenemübolt
(Fővám tér). Map 4 E2. Rákóczi út 17. Map 4 Map 4 E2. Szervita tér 5. Map 4 D1.
Tel (1) 366 33 00. E1/2. Tel (1) 338 42 19. Tel (1) 318 26 43. Tel (1) 318 35 00.




118-119_EW_Hungary.indd 119 18/09/17 3:39 pm

120  BUD APEST AREA B Y AREA ENTER T AINMENT IN BUD APEST  121

ENTERTAINMENT IN music. A38 also hosts lively the woods in Buda Hills
BUDAPEST club nights. Budapest’s and is staffed mostly by
children. The Museum
gay scene is legendary.
Action Bar lives up to of Military History
Budapest has been known as a city of Between the wars the city was as famous for its name, with go-go enthrals older children
entertainment since the late 19th century, its glittering society balls as for its more dancing and more, Sign for Bahnhof with weapons, armour
and battle scenes.
while Coxx Club is a
when people would travel here from Vienna decadent delights. The half-century of huge multi-level place music club Most children
in search of a good time. Its buzzing Communist rule dampened the revelry, but that attracts a more enjoy the Zoo, and
nightclubs were frequented for their electric since 1990 the Budapest music scene has mainstream crowd. Budapest’s is one of the largest
atmosphere and the beautiful girls that flourished and theatres, cabarets, festivals, Despite strict new gaming in Europe. The Great Capital
danced the spirited csárdás and the cancan. cinemas and discotheques are all buzzing. laws in Hungary that have Circus is another ideal venue
closed many gambling venues for family entertainment.
and may, eventually, close them
Practical Information with Hungarian sur titles. Corvintető nightclub, a lively rooftop all, a few casinos remain open,
and Tickets
The large hall of venue with great views largely attracting gamblers from
Two monthly cultural listings the Liszt Aca demy of Europe and the Middle East.
magazines, the Programme and Music (magnificently Nightlife
the Budapest Panorama, contain renovated) is the city’s The dynamic Budapest club
information in English. Both are leading venue for scene changes from month Children’s Entertainment
free and available in hotels and classical music. Another to month, often week to week. The Royal Palace (see pp58–9)
tourist information centres. venue for concerts and For a great night with live DJs and the Castle District generally
Pamphlets and bulletins are theatre is the Palace of head to Corvintető, a roof are good places to start,
often issued for festivals and Arts (MÜPA). Classical garden on top of a 1926 while a must is the ride up
other special events, and it is con certs may also be department store. LÄRM is a or down Castle Hill by funicular
worth keeping an eye out for the held in the domed hall August Rock Festival on Óbudai-sziget suberb venue notable for its railway. The Children’s Railway Façade of the vast Great Capital
poster pillars through out the city. of Parlia ment (see pp84– top DJs who play cutting-edge (Gyermekvasút) runs through Circus building
Tickets for plays and concerts 5), where the acoustics are nightly performances (Sundays
can be purchased in advance excellent. Other important excepted), check out the well­ DIRECTORY
from the booking offices, such venues for organ or choral regarded Budapest Jazz Club.
as Ticket Express, or the rele­ music are Mátyás Church (see For traditional Hungarian Tickets Jazz, Traditional József Katona Gay Clubs
vant venue. The best way of pp66–7), St Stephen’s Basilica music and dance, head to Cultur-Comfort Hungarian and Theatre Action Bar
securing a seat for concerts at (see pp90–91) and the Great the Hungarian Heritage Central Ticket Office Rock Music Petőfi Sándor utca 6.
the Liszt Academy of Music Synagogue (see p104). House, where authentic Paulay Ede utca 46. Map 2 A38 Map 4 D1. Magyar utca 42. Map 4
(see p105) or major opera pro­ Hungarian dance evenings are E5. Tel (1) 322 00 00. Petőfi híd Budai hidfő. Tel (1) 266 52 00. E1. Tel (1) 266 91 48.
ductions is via the Cultur- Jazz, Traditional held along with lessons for the Tel (1) 464 39 40. ∑ a38.hu Margitsziget Openair ∑ action.gay.hu
Comfort Central Ticket Office. young and old. Ticket Express Stage Coxx Club
Hungarian and Rock Music Andrássy út 18. Map 2 E4. Budapest Jazz Club
For fans of rock and pop, the Margitsziget Island. Dohány utca 38. Map 2
Jazz was very late in reaching biggest event of the year is the Tel (1) 303 09 99. Hollán Ernõ utca 7. Map 2 Tel (1) 340 41 96. F5. Tel (1) 344 48 84.
Opera, Classical and Hungary. The best­known and three­day Sziget Festival in ∑ tex.hu D2. Tel (1) 798 72 89.
Sacred Music revered Hungarian jazz band is August on Óbudai­sziget. Big Fat Mo’s Nemzeti Theatre ∑ coxx.hu
The standard of opera in Buda­ the Benkó Dixieland Band, names in rock and pop also play Opera, Classical Nyáry Pál u. 11. Bajor Gizi Park 1. Children’s
and Sacred Music
Tel (1) 476 68 00.
pest is very high. The State which during spring festivals at the modern Papp László Tel (1) 266 80 27. Entertainment
Opera House (see pp92–3) has a (see p34) plays in various Budapest SportArena. For Liszt Academy of Hungarian Heritage Casinos
mainly classical rep ertoire, sung theatres and large halls. For more live rock, try the party Music House Children’s Railway
boat A38 and Fat Mo’s, a leg­ Liszt Ferenc tér 8. Map 2 Corvin tér 8, District 1 Las Vegas Casino Széchenyi-hegy Station.
endary live music venue. F4. Tel (1) 462 46 00. (Castle District). Roosevelt tér 2. Map 1 C5. Tel (1) 395 54 20.
Mátyás Church Tel (1) 225 60 49. Tel (1) 266 20 83. ∑ gyermekvasut.hu
∑ lasvegascasino.hu
Theatre and Cinema Szentháromság tér 2. Papp László Great Capital Circus
Map 1 B4. Budapest SportArena Tropicana Casino
Budapest has many theatres, Tel (1) 355 56 57. Jfjúság utca 4. Tickets from Vigadó utca 2. Map 4 D1. Állatkerti körút 12/A.
which are worth visiting not Palace of Arts (MÜPA) Ticketa Tel (1) 422 26 82. Tel (1) 266 30 62. Tel (1) 343 83 00.
only for their great repertoires, Komor Marcell utca 1. ∑ budapestarena.hu ∑ tropicanacasino.hu ∑ fnc.hu
but also because most are Tel (1) 555 33 00. Museum of Military
located in beautiful historic ∑ mupa.hu Sziget Festival Nightlife History
buildings. Cinemas show the ∑ szigetfestival.com Kapisztrán tér 2–4.
latest films soon after their St Stephen’s Basilica Theatre and Corvintető Map 1 A4.
world premieres, and most Szent István tér 2. Map 2 Cinema Blaha Lujza tér 1–2. Tel (1) 325 16 47.
foreign films in Hungary are D5. Tel (1) 317 28 59. Tel (20) 772 29 84.
dubbed and subtitled into State Opera House Cinema City Westend ∑ corvinteto.com Zoo
Hungarian. Visitors who do not Andrássy út 22. Map 2 E4. Váci út 1–3. Map 2 E2. LÄRM Állatkerti körút 6–12.
speak Hungarian should Tel (1) 331 25 50. Tel (40) 60 06 00. Akácfa utca 51. Tel (1) 273 49 00.
choose the angol nyelvű ∑ opera.hu ∑ funzine.hu ∑ larm.hu ∑ zoobudapest.com
The main stage at the opulent Opera House, in Budapest (English soundtrack) version.

120-121_EW_Hungary.indd 120 18/09/17 3:39 pm 120-121_EW_Hungary.indd 121 18/09/17 3:39 pm

ENTER T AINMENT IN BUD APEST  121


music. A38 also hosts lively the woods in Buda Hills
club nights. Budapest’s and is staffed mostly by
gay scene is legendary. children. The Museum
Action Bar lives up to of Military History
its name, with go-go enthrals older children
dancing and more, with weapons, armour
while Coxx Club is a Sign for Bahnhof and battle scenes.
huge multi-level place music club Most children
that attracts a more enjoy the Zoo, and
mainstream crowd. Budapest’s is one of the largest
Despite strict new gaming in Europe. The Great Capital
laws in Hungary that have Circus is another ideal venue
closed many gambling venues for family entertainment.
and may, eventually, close them
Corvintető nightclub, a lively rooftop all, a few casinos remain open,
venue with great views largely attracting gamblers from
Europe and the Middle East.
Nightlife
The dynamic Budapest club
scene changes from month Children’s Entertainment
to month, often week to week. The Royal Palace (see pp58–9)
For a great night with live DJs and the Castle District generally
head to Corvintető, a roof are good places to start,
garden on top of a 1926 while a must is the ride up
department store. LÄRM is a or down Castle Hill by funicular
suberb venue notable for its railway. The Children’s Railway Façade of the vast Great Capital
top DJs who play cutting-edge (Gyermekvasút) runs through Circus building
DIRECTORY
Tickets Jazz, Traditional József Katona Gay Clubs
Hungarian and Theatre
Cultur-Comfort Rock Music Petőfi Sándor utca 6. Action Bar
Central Ticket Office Map 4 D1. Magyar utca 42. Map 4
Paulay Ede utca 46. Map 2 A38 Tel (1) 266 52 00. E1. Tel (1) 266 91 48.
E5. Tel (1) 322 00 00. Petőfi híd Budai hidfő. ∑ action.gay.hu
Ticket Express Tel (1) 464 39 40. ∑ a38.hu Margitsziget Openair Coxx Club
Stage
Andrássy út 18. Map 2 E4. Budapest Jazz Club Margitsziget Island. Dohány utca 38. Map 2
Tel (1) 303 09 99. Hollán Ernõ utca 7. Map 2 Tel (1) 340 41 96.
∑ tex.hu D2. Tel (1) 798 72 89. F5. Tel (1) 344 48 84.
Nemzeti Theatre ∑ coxx.hu
Opera, Classical Fat Mo’s Bajor Gizi Park 1.
and Sacred Music Nyáry Pál u. 11. Tel (1) 476 68 00. Children’s
Tel (1) 266 80 27. Entertainment
Liszt Academy of Hungarian Heritage Casinos
Music House Children’s Railway
Liszt Ferenc tér 8. Map 2 Corvin tér 8, District 1 Las Vegas Casino Széchenyi-hegy Station.
F4. Tel (1) 462 46 00. (Castle District). Roosevelt tér 2. Map 1 C5. Tel (1) 395 54 20.
Mátyás Church Tel (1) 225 60 49. Tel (1) 266 20 83. ∑ gyermekvasut.hu
Szentháromság tér 2. Papp László ∑ lasvegascasino.hu Great Capital Circus
Map 1 B4. Budapest SportArena Tropicana Casino Állatkerti körút 12/A.
Tel (1) 355 56 57. Jfjúság utca 4. Tickets from Vigadó utca 2. Map 4 D1. Tel (1) 343 83 00.
Palace of Arts (MÜPA) Ticketa Tel (1) 422 26 82. Tel (1) 266 30 62. ∑ fnc.hu
Komor Marcell utca 1. ∑ budapestarena.hu ∑ tropicanacasino.hu
Tel (1) 555 33 00. Sziget Festival Museum of Military
∑ mupa.hu Nightlife History
∑ szigetfestival.com
St Stephen’s Basilica Corvintető Kapisztrán tér 2–4.
Map 1 A4.
Szent István tér 2. Map 2 Theatre and Blaha Lujza tér 1–2.
D5. Tel (1) 317 28 59. Cinema Tel (20) 772 29 84. Tel (1) 325 16 47.
∑ corvinteto.com
State Opera House Cinema City Westend Zoo
Andrássy út 22. Map 2 E4. Váci út 1–3. Map 2 E2. LÄRM Állatkerti körút 6–12.
Tel (1) 331 25 50. Tel (40) 60 06 00. Akácfa utca 51. Tel (1) 273 49 00.
∑ opera.hu ∑ funzine.hu ∑ larm.hu ∑ zoobudapest.com



120-121_EW_Hungary.indd 121 18/09/17 3:39 pm

122  BUD APEST STREE T FINDER  123

BUDAPEST STREET FINDER Street Finder Index

The map references given for all the sights, useful information listed in the key below. A F Lehel utca 2F1 Szentkirályi utca 4F1
hotels, bars, restaurants, shops and enter- As an aid to navigation, all street names on Lipthay utca 1B2 Szerb utca 4E2
tainment venues in Budapest refer to the the Street Finder and in the index are in Ady Endre utca 1A2 Fadrusz utca 3C4 Liszt F tér 2F4 Szeréna út 1B1
1B3
3A5
Fazekas utca
Ajnácskő utca
maps in this section. Opposite is a complete Hungarian. Terms that may be confusing are Akadémia utca 1C4 Fehérvári út 3C5 Lónyay utca 4E2 Színház utca 1B5
Szinyei Merse utca
2F3
Lovas út
1A4
index of street names marked on the maps. utca (often abbreviated to u), which means Alagút utca 1B5 Ferenc körút 4F3 Szirtes utca 3C2
4E1
The map below shows the area of Budapest “street”, and út meaning “avenue”, usually Alkotás utca 1A5 Ferenczy I utca 1B4 M Szüret utca 3B3
Fő utca
covered by the Street Finder; it is colour-coded wide, busy roads. Other commonly used Alkotmány utca 2D4 Frankel Leó út 1B1 Mányoki út 4D3 T
3A3
Alsóhegy utca
by area. The Street Finder shows bus and tram terms are körút (krt, ring road), tér (square), Andrássy út 2E4 Margit körút 1A3
routes and major sights together with other köz (lane), körtér (circus) and híd (bridge). Apáczai utca 2D5 G Mária utca 4F2 Táncsics M. utca 1B4
Apostol utca 1B2 Gerlóczy utca 4E1 Markó utca 2D3 Teréz körút 2E3
Aradi utca 2F3 Groza Péter rakpart 3C1 Márvány utca 3A1 Tétényi út 3B5
Arany János utca 2D4 Győri utca 3A1 Mester utca 4F3 Török utca 1B2
Árpád Fejedelem Mészáros utca 3A1
útca 1B1 Móricz Zsigmond körtér 4D4 U
Attila út 1A5 H 3C1 Műegyetem rakpart 4E3 Újlaki rakpart 1B2
4E1
Múzeum körút
Avar utca
3A1
Hadnagy utca
VÁ C I Ú T T VÁ C I Ú B Hajós utca 3B5 N Újpesti rakpart 2D2
2E4
Üllői út
4F2
ÚTJA
ÚTJA
Halmi utca
Hamzsabégi út 3A5 Úri utca 1B5
Bajcsy-Zsilinszky út 2D4 Harmincad utca 2D5 Nádor utca 2D4
ÁRPÁD FEJEDELEM
ÁRPÁD FEJEDELEM
2E4 V
Nagymező utca
Bajza utca
2F2
1A3
Hattyú utca
MARGIT KÖRÚT
MARGIT KÖRÚT BEM Danube (Duna) Danube (Duna) SZT. ISTVÁN Balassi Bálint utca 2D4 Havas utca 2D2 Nagyszőlős utca 3A4 Váci utca 4D1
1C3
BEM
4E2
J. U.
J. U.
4E5
SZT. ISTVÁN
Neumann János utca
KÖRÚT
KÖRÚT
Bank utca
2E2
Váci út
Hegedűs Gyula utca
4F2
Baross utca
Hegyalja út
3B2
Vámház körút
4E2
3C4
AroundAround
TERÉZ KÖRÚT
TERÉZ KÖRÚT
CastleCastle ParliamentParliament Bartók Béla út 2D4 Hess A tér 1B4 O Várfok utca 1A4
Báthory utca
4E1
Hollán Ernő utca
2D2
Városház utca
DistrictDistrict Batthyány utca 1B4 Honvéd utca 2D3 Október 23 utca 4D4 Vaskapu utca 4F4
Bécsi utca 2D5 Horvát utca 1B3 Október 6 utca 2D5 Vérhalom utca 1A1
Országház utca
1A4
Bécsi kapu tér 1A4 Hunyadi János út 1B5 Vérmező út 1A4
Békési utca 4F1 P Victor Hugo utca 2E2
ERZSÉBET KÖRÚT
ERZSÉBET KÖRÚT
RÁKÓCZI ÚT
RÁKÓCZI ÚT Belgrád rakpart 4D1 I Palota út 1B5 Vigadó tér 4D1
3B3
Villányi út
1B3
Bem J utca
4E4
1C4
CentralCentral JÓZEF JÓZEF KÖRÚT KÖRÚT Bem rakpart 4D4 Irinyi József utca 1B4 Pannónia utca 2D2 Vörösmarty tér 2D5
Iskola utca
Bercsényi utca
HEGYALJA ÚT
HEGYALJA ÚT PestPest Bimbó utca 1A2 Izabella utca 2F3 Papnövelde utca 4E1
2E5 W
Paulay Ede utca
ALKOTÁS U.
ALKOTÁS U.
Gellért HillGellért Hill Bocskai út 3B4 Pázmány Péter sétány 4E4
and Tabánand Tabán FERENC FERENC KÖRÚT KÖRÚT Bogdánfy utca 4D5 J Petőfi S utca 4D1 Wesselényi utca 2F5
2E3
4F1
Bródy Sándor utca
2E4
Pozsonyi út
Budafoki út 4D4 Jókai utca 2D5 Podmaniczky utca 2D2 Z
József Attila utca
BUDAÖRSI ÚT SOROKSÁRI Budai N utca 2D2 József körút 4F2 R Zivatar utca 1A2
BUDAÖRSI ÚT
Budaörsi út
3A3
2D5
Zrínyi utca
IRINYI JÓZEF U.
NAGYSZŐLŐS U. BOCSKAI ÚT IRINYI JÓZEF U. ÚT Buday László utca 1B2 K Ráday utca 4F3
NAGYSZŐLŐS U.
SOROKSÁRI
BOCSKAI ÚT
ÚT
4E1
Rákóczi út
C
Kacsa utca
Kálmán Imre utca 1B3 Régiposta utca 4D1
2D4
Clark Ádám tér 1C5 Kapisztrán tér 1A4 Rómer Flóris utca 1A2
Csalogány utca 1B3 Karinthy Frigyes út 4D4 Rózsa utca 2F3
Csanády utca 2E2 Karolina út 3B4
Csányi utca 2F5 Károly körút 4E1 S
0 kilometres 1 Csengery utca 2F4 Károlyi utca 4E1
Czakó utca 3B2 Kárpát utca 2D1 Sánc út 3B2
0 miles 1 Sárbogárdi út 3C5
Kassák Lajos utca 2F1
D Kecskeméti utca 4E2 Sarolta utca 1A1
3C3
Somlói út
Key Kelenhegyi út 3C3
Dezső utca 3B1 Kinizsi utca 4F2 Soroksári út 4F4
Major sight River boat boarding point Dísz tér 1B5 Király utca 2F4 Szabadság tér 2D4
Dob utca 2E5 Királyi Pál utca 4E2 Szabad Sajtó út 4D1
Place of interest Tourist information point
Döbrentei tér 3C1 Klauzál utca 2F5 Széchenyi István tér 1C5
Other building Hospital with casualty unit Dohány utca 2F5 Kossuth Lajos tér 1C4 Széchenyi rakpart 1C3
1A3
Main bus stop Police station Dombóvári út 4D5 Kossuth L utca 4E1 Széll Kálmán tér 2D3
Szemere utca
Metro station Church Donáti utca 1B4 Közraktár utca 4E3 Szemlöhegy utca 1A2
Dorottya utca 2D5 Krisztina körút 1A5
Funicular Synagogue Scale of Map Pages Dózsa György út 2F1 Szent Gellért rakpart 4D2
Hév station Railway line 0 metres 200 L Szent Gellért tér 4D3
1:14,000 E Szentháromság tér 1B4
Train station Pedestrianized street 0 yards 200 Lágymányosi utca 4D4 Szent István körút 2D3
Tram route Erzsébet körút 2F4 Lánchíd utca 3C1 Szent István tér 2D5
122-123_EW_Hungary.indd 122 18/09/17 3:39 pm 122-123_EW_Hungary.indd 123 18/09/17 3:39 pm

STREE T FINDER  123

Street Finder Index

A F Lehel utca 2F1 Szentkirályi utca 4F1
Lipthay utca 1B2 Szerb utca 4E2
Ady Endre utca 1A2 Fadrusz utca 3C4 Liszt F tér 2F4 Szeréna út 1B1
Ajnácskő utca 3A5 Fazekas utca 1B3 Lónyay utca 4E2 Színház utca 1B5
Akadémia utca 1C4 Fehérvári út 3C5 Lovas út 1A4 Szinyei Merse utca 2F3
Alagút utca 1B5 Ferenc körút 4F3 Szirtes utca 3C2
Alkotás utca 1A5 Ferenczy I utca 4E1 M Szüret utca 3B3
Alkotmány utca 2D4 Fő utca 1B4
Alsóhegy utca 3A3 Frankel Leó út 1B1 Mányoki út 4D3 T
Andrássy út 2E4 Margit körút 1A3
Apáczai utca 2D5 G Mária utca 4F2 Táncsics M. utca 1B4
Apostol utca 1B2 Gerlóczy utca 4E1 Markó utca 2D3 Teréz körút 2E3
Aradi utca 2F3 Groza Péter rakpart 3C1 Márvány utca 3A1 Tétényi út 3B5
Arany János utca 2D4 Győri utca 3A1 Mester utca 4F3 Török utca 1B2
Árpád Fejedelem Mészáros utca 3A1
útca 1B1 Móricz Zsigmond körtér 4D4 U
Attila út 1A5 H 3C1 Műegyetem rakpart 4E3 Újlaki rakpart 1B2
4E1
Múzeum körút
Avar utca
3A1
Hadnagy utca
VÁ C I Ú T B Hajós utca 2E4 Újpesti rakpart 2D2
4F2
Üllői út
3B5 N
ÚTJA
Halmi utca
Hamzsabégi út 3A5 Úri utca 1B5
Bajcsy-Zsilinszky út 2D4 Harmincad utca 2D5 Nádor utca 2D4
ÁRPÁD FEJEDELEM
2E4 V
Nagymező utca
Bajza utca
2F2
Hattyú utca
1A3
MARGIT KÖRÚT BEM Danube (Duna) SZT. ISTVÁN Balassi Bálint utca 1C3 Havas utca 2D2 Nagyszőlős utca 3A4 Váci utca 4D1
4E2
J. U.
Neumann János utca
4E5
KÖRÚT
2D4
Bank utca
Váci út
2E2
Hegedűs Gyula utca
Baross utca
4F2
4E2
Vámház körút
Hegyalja út
3B2
1B4 O
Around
TERÉZ KÖRÚT
Báthory utca
2D4
Castle Parliament Bartók Béla út 3C4 Hess A tér 2D2 Várfok utca 1A4
Városház utca
4E1
Hollán Ernő utca
District Batthyány utca 1B4 Honvéd utca 2D3 Október 23 utca 4D4 Vaskapu utca 4F4
Bécsi utca 2D5 Horvát utca 1B3 Október 6 utca 2D5 Vérhalom utca 1A1
1A4
Országház utca
Bécsi kapu tér 1A4 Hunyadi János út 1B5 Vérmező út 1A4
Békési utca 4F1 P Victor Hugo utca 2E2
ERZSÉBET KÖRÚT
RÁKÓCZI ÚT Belgrád rakpart 4D1 I Palota út 1B5 Vigadó tér 4D1
3B3
Villányi út
1B3
Bem J utca
Central JÓZEF KÖRÚT Bem rakpart 1C4 Irinyi József utca 4E4 Pannónia utca 2D2 Vörösmarty tér 2D5
Iskola utca
1B4
Bercsényi utca
4D4
HEGYALJA ÚT Pest Bimbó utca 1A2 Izabella utca 2F3 Papnövelde utca 4E1
2E5 W
Paulay Ede utca
ALKOTÁS U.
Gellért Hill Bocskai út 3B4 Pázmány Péter sétány 4E4
and Tabán FERENC KÖRÚT Bogdánfy utca 4D5 J Petőfi S utca 4D1 Wesselényi utca 2F5
2E3
Bródy Sándor utca
4F1
2E4
Budafoki út 4D4 Jókai utca 2D5 Podmaniczky utca 2D2 Z
Pozsonyi út
József Attila utca
BUDAÖRSI ÚT SOROKSÁRI Budai N utca 2D2 József körút 4F2 R Zivatar utca 2D5
1A2
3A3
Budaörsi út
Zrínyi utca
NAGYSZŐLŐS U. BOCSKAI ÚT IRINYI JÓZEF U. ÚT Buday László utca 1B2 K Ráday utca 4F3
Rákóczi út
4E1
C
Kacsa utca
1B3
Kálmán Imre utca 2D4 Régiposta utca 4D1
Clark Ádám tér 1C5 Kapisztrán tér 1A4 Rómer Flóris utca 1A2
Csalogány utca 1B3 Karinthy Frigyes út 4D4 Rózsa utca 2F3
Csanády utca 2E2 Karolina út 3B4
Csányi utca 2F5 Károly körút 4E1 S
Csengery utca 2F4 Károlyi utca 4E1
Czakó utca 3B2 Kárpát utca 2D1 Sánc út 3B2
Kassák Lajos utca 2F1 Sárbogárdi út 3C5
D Kecskeméti utca 4E2 Sarolta utca 1A1
Somlói út
3C3
Kelenhegyi út 3C3
Dezső utca 3B1 Kinizsi utca 4F2 Soroksári út 4F4
Dísz tér 1B5 Király utca 2F4 Szabadság tér 2D4
Dob utca 2E5 Királyi Pál utca 4E2 Szabad Sajtó út 4D1
Döbrentei tér 3C1 Klauzál utca 2F5 Széchenyi István tér 1C5
Dohány utca 2F5 Kossuth Lajos tér 1C4 Széchenyi rakpart 1C3
Dombóvári út 4D5 Kossuth L utca 4E1 Széll Kálmán tér 1A3
Donáti utca 1B4 Közraktár utca 4E3 Szemere utca 2D3
Dorottya utca 2D5 Krisztina körút 1A5 Szemlöhegy utca 1A2
Dózsa György út 2F1 Szent Gellért rakpart 4D2
L Szent Gellért tér 4D3
E Szentháromság tér 1B4
Lágymányosi utca 4D4 Szent István körút 2D3
Erzsébet körút 2F4 Lánchíd utca 3C1 Szent István tér 2D5
122-123_EW_Hungary.indd 123 18/09/17 3:39 pm

BOTOND U.
BOTOND U.
BOTOND U.
TISZA U.
TISZA U.
TISZA U.
TISZA U.
DózsaDózsaDózsaDózsa BOTOND U.
György útGyörgy útGyörgy útGyörgy út
SZEMLÖHEGY U.
SZERÉNA ÚT
SZERÉNA ÚT
SZERÉNA ÚT
SZERÉNA ÚT
SZEMLÖHEGY U.
TÜZÉR U.
TÜZÉR U.
VÁG U.
VÁG U.
VÁG U.
VÁG U.
ÁFONYA U. . ÁFONYA U. . FAJD U FAJD U SZEMLÖHEGY U. SZEMLÖHEGY U. SAROLTA U. TUTAJ U. TÜZÉR U. TÜZÉR U.
ÁFONYA U
ÁFONYA U
JÓZSEFHEGYI ÚT
JÓZSEFHEGYI ÚT
JÓZSEFHEGYI ÚT
JÓZSEFHEGYI ÚT
SAROLTA U.
SAROLTA U.
SAROLTA U.
FAJD U
FAJD U
PALÁNTA U.
PALÁNTA U.
PALÁNTA U. PALÁNTA U. CSERJE U. . CSERJE U. . SZERÉNA ÚT SZERÉNA ÚT KÁRPÁT U. KÁRPÁT U. GARAM U. BESSENYEI U TAKSONY U. DÓZSA GYÖRGY ÚT
KÁRPÁT U.
KÁRPÁT U.
SZERÉNA ÚT
TUTAJ U.
TUTAJ U.
TUTAJ U.
SZERÉNA ÚT
CSERJE U
CSERJE U
TAKSONY U.
TAKSONY U.
TAKSONY U.
BESSENYEI U
BESSENYEI U. .
BESSENYEI U. .
GARAM U.
GARAM U.
KAVICS U.
KAVICS U.
KAVICS U.
GARAM U.
POZSONYI ÚT
POZSONYI ÚT
KASSÁK LAJOS U.
KASSÁK LAJOS U.
VISEGRÁDI U.
VISEGRÁDI U.
FRANKEL LE Ó Ú T FRANKEL LE Ó Ú T FRANKEL LE Ó Ú T FRANKEL LE Ó Ú T ÁRPÁD FEJEDELE M ÚTJA IPOLY U. PANNÓNIA U. PANNÓNIA U. HEGEDŰS GYULA U. HEGEDŰS GYULA U. IPOLY U. GOGOL U. DÉVAI U. TÜZÉR U. TÜZÉR U.
HEGEDŰS GYULA U.
HEGEDŰS GYULA U.
LŐPORTÁR U.
LŐPORTÁR U.
LŐPORTÁR U.
VÉRHALOMVÉRHALOMVÉRHALOMVÉRHALOM KAVICS U. MargitszigetMargitszigetMargitszigetMargitsziget VÁC I ÚT VÁC I ÚT VÁC I ÚT VÁC I ÚT LŐPORTÁR U.
TÉRTÉR TÉRTÉR Hajós AlfrédHajós Alfréd POZSONYI ÚT POZSONYI ÚT GOGOL U. VISEGRÁDI U. VISEGRÁDI U. KASSÁK LAJOS U. KASSÁK LAJOS U.
Hajós AlfrédAlfréd
Hajós
GOGOL U.
KAVICS U.
GOGOL U.
GOGOL U.
KAVICS U.
KAVICS U.
KAVICS U.
DÓZSA GYÖRGY ÚT
DÓZSA GYÖRGY ÚT
DÓZSA GYÖRGY ÚT
PANNÓNIA U.
PANNÓNIA U.
VÉRHALO M U.
VÉRHALO M U.
VÉRHALO M U. M U. uszoda uszodauszoda uszoda TAKSONY U.
VÉRHALO
TAKSONY U.
TAKSONY U.
TAKSONY U.
IPOLY U.
IPOLY U.
IPOLY U.
TÜZÉR U.
TÜZÉR U.
DÉVAI U.
DÉVAI U.
DÉVAI U.
GOGOL U.
GOGOL U.
GOGOL U.
AP OSTO L U.
AP OSTO L U.
AP OSTO L U.
AP OSTO L U.
MANDULA U.
ÚJPESTI RAKPART
ÚJPESTI RAKPART
MANDULA U.
MANDULA U.
MANDULA U.
ÚJPESTI RAKPART
VÉRHALOM U.
VÉRHALOM U.
VÉRHALOM U.
VÉRHALOM U.
IPOLY U.
IPOLY U.
IPOLY U.
BERK ENYE U.
BERK ENYE U.
BERK ENYE U.
BERK ENYE U.
LEHEL U.
LEHEL U.
LEHEL U.
SZEMLÖHEGY U. . SZEMLÖHEGY U. . LEVÉL U. LEVÉL U. BÓLYAI U. ORGONA U. ORGONA U. GyógyfürdőGyógyfürdőGyógyfürdőGyógyfürdő ÚJLAKI RAKPART ÚJLAKI RAKPART CentenáriumiCentenáriumi ÚJPESTI RAKPART HOLLÁN ERNŐ U. HOLLÁN ERNŐ U. VICTOR HUGO U.
THURZÓ U.
THURZÓ U.
SZEMLÖHEGY U
SZEMLÖHEGY U
SZABOLCS U.
SZABOLCS U.
SZABOLCS U.
THURZÓ U. RÖNTGEN U.
RÖNTGEN U.
RÖNTGEN U.
Centenáriumiiumi
Centenár
LŐPORTÁR U.
LŐPORTÁR U.
LŐPORTÁR U.
VICTOR HUGO U.
VICTOR HUGO U.
VICTOR HUGO U.
ALIG U.
ALIG U.
emlékmű
emlékműemlékmű
emlékmű
HOLLÁN ERNŐ U.
ALIG U.
HOLLÁN ERNŐ U.
ALIG U.
BULCSÚ U.
BULCSÚ U.
DÉVAI U.
DÉVAI U.
ÁLDAS U.
ÁLDAS U.
ÁLDAS U.
BÓLYAI U.
BÓLYAI U.
ÁLDAS U.
BÓLYAI U.
Lehel térLehel tér
Lehel tér
LEVÉL U.
LEVÉL U.
VISEGRÁDI U.
VISEGRÁDI U.
VISEGRÁDI U.
TÁTRA U.
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MOHAI KÖZ
Hun_126-127.indd 127 17/02/2015 12:54

HUNGARY

REGION BY


REGION





Hungary at a Glance 130–131

Around Budapest 132–149
Northern Transdanubia 150–181
Southern Transdanubia 182–211
The Northern Highlands 212–233
The Great Plain 234–259













































Hun_128-129.indd 128 17/02/2015 12:54 Hun_128-129.indd 129 17/02/2015 12:54

HUNGARY

REGION BY


REGION





Hungary at a Glance 130–131

Around Budapest 132–149
Northern Transdanubia 150–181
Southern Transdanubia 182–211
The Northern Highlands 212–233
The Great Plain 234–259













































Hun_128-129.indd 129 17/02/2015 12:54

130  HUNGAR Y REGION B Y REGION HUNGAR Y A T A GLANCE  131

Hungary at a Glance Hollókő Church
A museum village devoted to the
preservation of the lifestyles and
Hungary was traditionally divided into four regions – the Great traditions of the Palóc people, Hollókő
Plain, the Northern Highlands, Trans danubia and Transylvania – has been added to the UNESCO
but since 1918, with the exception of a short period at the World Heritage list. The church here is
beginning of World War II, Transylvania has been a part of white washed, like the village houses.
Romania. In this guide, the vast region of Transdanubia is
divided into a northern and a southern half. While each
region has its own traditions and values, culture and habits,
Hungary is one of the most homogenous countries in the 0 kilometres 50
world. It is also one of the least urban countries in Europe: 0 miles 50
outside Budapest, only Debrecen has more than 200,000
inhabitants. The population is concentrated in small towns Firewatch Tower in Sopron
and thousands of villages, and it is the traditions of these Located in the far northwest of ZáhonyZáhony
smaller places that give the country its charm. the country, the attractive town THE NORTHERNTHE NORTHERN
of Sopron has a well-preserved HIGHLANDSHIGHLANDS
medieval centre. (see pp212–33)(see pp212–33)
SalgótarjánSalgótarján MiskolcMiskolc
NyíregyházaNyíregyháza MátészalkaMátészalka
EgerEger
VácVác GyöngyösGyöngyös
SopronSopron GyőrGyőr
GödöllőGödöllő
TatabányaTatabánya
JászberényJászberény
NORTHERN TRANSDANUBIANORTHERN TRANSDANUBIA BUDAPESTBUDAPEST DebrecenDebrecen
(see pp150–81)(see pp150–81) (see pp52–127)(see pp52–127)
SzombathelySzombathely AROUNDAROUND PüspökladányPüspökladány
SzékesfehérvárSzékesfehérvár BUDAPESTBUDAPEST PilisPilis
(see pp132–49)(see pp132–49) SzolnokSzolnok
VeszprémVeszprém THE GREAT PLAINTHE GREAT PLAIN
(see pp234–59)(see pp234–59)
ZalaegerszegZalaegerszeg KecskemétKecskemét
SiofókSiofók ElőszállásElőszállás SoltSolt
BalatonlelleBalatonlelle
Royal Palace of Gödöllő BékéscsabaBékéscsaba
Franz Joseph’s wife, “Sisi”,
loved staying here at the NagykanizsaNagykanizsa SOUTHERNSOUTHERN
Habsburgs’ fine summer TRANSDANUBIATRANSDANUBIA
residence in Gödöllő. The (see pp182–211)(see pp182–211)
town also has a renowned VéseVése KaposvárKaposvár SzekszárdSzekszárd
local artists’ colony.
SzegedSzeged
BajaBaja
PécsPécs
SzigetvárSzigetvár
Hortobágy National Park
A UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Hortobágy
Puszta is famous for its cattle and its horsemen,
the csikós, as well as the national dish of goulash.






Pécs Cathedral Great Catholic Church in Kecskemét
The ornate St Peter’s Cathedral stands A centre of the arts and education, Kecskemét boasts
at the historic centre of this sunny town, some fine architecture, including this large Baroque
while busy Széchenyi tér is dominated edifice. Older buildings have been skilfully integrated
by a former mosque. into the modern cityscape.
View from the citadel of Visegrád, on the Danube Bend



130-131_EW_Hungary.indd 130 18/09/17 3:40 pm 130-131_EW_Hungary.indd 131 18/09/17 3:40 pm

HUNGAR Y A T A GLANCE  131

Hollókő Church
A museum village devoted to the
preservation of the lifestyles and
traditions of the Palóc people, Hollókő
has been added to the UNESCO
World Heritage list. The church here is
white washed, like the village houses.




0 kilometres 50
0 miles 50

Záhony
THE NORTHERN
HIGHLANDS
(see pp212–33)
Salgótarján Miskolc
Nyíregyháza Mátészalka
Eger
Vác Gyöngyös
Sopron Győr
Gödöllő
Tatabánya
Jászberény
NORTHERN TRANSDANUBIA BUDAPEST Debrecen
(see pp150–81) (see pp52–127)
Szombathely AROUND Püspökladány
Székesfehérvár BUDAPEST Pilis
(see pp132–49) Szolnok
Veszprém THE GREAT PLAIN
(see pp234–59)
Zalaegerszeg Kecskemét
Siofók Előszállás Solt
Balatonlelle
Békéscsaba
SOUTHERN
Nagykanizsa TRANSDANUBIA
(see pp182–211)
Vése
Kaposvár Szekszárd
Szeged
Baja
Pécs
Szigetvár
Hortobágy National Park
A UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Hortobágy
Puszta is famous for its cattle and its horsemen,
the csikós, as well as the national dish of goulash.






Great Catholic Church in Kecskemét
A centre of the arts and education, Kecskemét boasts
some fine architecture, including this large Baroque
edifice. Older buildings have been skilfully integrated
into the modern cityscape.




130-131_EW_Hungary.indd 131 18/09/17 3:40 pm

HUNGAR Y REGION B Y REGION  133

AROUND

BUDAPEST


Strategically sited castles and vast cathedrals,
including Hungary’s largest, look out over the
pleasure boats navigating the Danube Bend. The
unique evening sunlight here has always attracted artists to the region,
and evidence of a rich cultural heritage is everywhere. Gödöllő boasts
the stunning Royal Palace, while the Duna-Ipoly National Park offers
a superb habitat for native wildlife.


With its darting twists and turns, steep seeking respite today are the thousands
banks and deep valleys, the Danube of Budapest residents who keep holiday
Bend has been a site of refuge for almost homes in the area, and the legions of
2,000 years. Rome built garrisons here, and visitors on short trips from the capital –
there are remnants of that great empire a fact that is reflected in local prices.
everywhere. The natural fortress that is the Over on the east bank the rolling hills
Danube’s west bank was later the chosen of the Börzsöny and the Duna-Ipoly
site for the construction of the historic National Park – home to more than
towns of Visegrád and Esztergom, both half of Hungary’s native bird species –
built with protection and defence in mind. make for sensational hiking, walking
Esztergom was the scene of the Hungarian and birdwatching.
conversion to Christianity, and Visegrád This is perhaps the most cosmopolitan
was the impenetrable seat of royal power. part of Hungary, where visitors can expect
Later still came Szentendre, which, like warm, welcoming and multilingual hosts,
Ráckeve to the south of the capital, was but in summer it can be very hot and busy.
founded by Serbs fleeing persecution at As autumn usually brings plenty of rain and
home and, though few Serbs remain, winter can be very cold, the early spring –
traces of their culture and their religion March, April and May – may be the best
are evident everywhere. Those who come time for exploring these historic places.






















Magnificent frescoes in the Serbian Orthodox Church in Ráckeve
Statue of István, the first Hungarian king, at Esztergom – the site of his coronation



Hun_132_133_Regional_Intro.indd 132 17/02/2015 12:53 Hun_132_133_Regional_Intro.indd 133 17/02/2015 12:53

HUNGAR Y REGION B Y REGION  133

AROUND

BUDAPEST


Strategically sited castles and vast cathedrals,
including Hungary’s largest, look out over the
pleasure boats navigating the Danube Bend. The
unique evening sunlight here has always attracted artists to the region,
and evidence of a rich cultural heritage is everywhere. Gödöllő boasts
the stunning Royal Palace, while the Duna-Ipoly National Park offers
a superb habitat for native wildlife.


With its darting twists and turns, steep seeking respite today are the thousands
banks and deep valleys, the Danube of Budapest residents who keep holiday
Bend has been a site of refuge for almost homes in the area, and the legions of
2,000 years. Rome built garrisons here, and visitors on short trips from the capital –
there are remnants of that great empire a fact that is reflected in local prices.
everywhere. The natural fortress that is the Over on the east bank the rolling hills
Danube’s west bank was later the chosen of the Börzsöny and the Duna-Ipoly
site for the construction of the historic National Park – home to more than
towns of Visegrád and Esztergom, both half of Hungary’s native bird species –
built with protection and defence in mind. make for sensational hiking, walking
Esztergom was the scene of the Hungarian and birdwatching.
conversion to Christianity, and Visegrád This is perhaps the most cosmopolitan
was the impenetrable seat of royal power. part of Hungary, where visitors can expect
Later still came Szentendre, which, like warm, welcoming and multilingual hosts,
Ráckeve to the south of the capital, was but in summer it can be very hot and busy.
founded by Serbs fleeing persecution at As autumn usually brings plenty of rain and
home and, though few Serbs remain, winter can be very cold, the early spring –
traces of their culture and their religion March, April and May – may be the best
are evident everywhere. Those who come time for exploring these historic places.






















Magnificent frescoes in the Serbian Orthodox Church in Ráckeve
Statue of István, the first Hungarian king, at Esztergom – the site of his coronation



Hun_132_133_Regional_Intro.indd 133 17/02/2015 12:53

134  HUNGAR Y REGION B Y REGION AROUND BUD APEST  135

Exploring Around Budapest Sights at a Glance
1 Ráckeve
The countryside and villages around Budapest have always 2 Ócsa
been a major draw for visitors to the capital. To the north is 3 Gödöllő p136 & pp138–9
the Danube Bend (Dunakanyar), and in the middle of it the 4 Vácrátót
art-loving village of Szen tendre. Further upriver are the 5 Vác
Baroque town of Vác and Hungary’s most sacred city, 6 Szentendre pp142–4
Esztergom. Beyond, the Duna-Ipoly National Park offers 7 Visegrád
8 Zebegény
countless hiking and nature trails. The Royal Mansion DUNA-IPOLY 9 Nagybörzsöny & Duna-Ipoly
in Gödöllő to the east is worth seeing, and south of NAGYBÖRZSÖNYNAGYBÖRZSÖNY National Park
Budapest are the pretty town of Ráckeve and the Ócsa 0 Esztergom pp146–9
DUNA-IPOLY
Nature Reserve, a unique habitat of reedy bogs.
NATIONAL PARK
NATIONAL PARK
ZEBEGÉNYZEBEGÉNY The Royal Palace in Gödöllő, built by Count Antal Grassalkovich
KosdKosd
ESZTERGOMESZTERGOM
VISEGRÁDVISEGRÁD VÁCVÁC
KomáromKomárom
LeányfaluLeányfalu
DorogDorog VÁCRÁTÓTVÁCRÁTÓT
SZENTENDRESZENTENDRE GödGöd DebrecenDebrecen
Key
VeresegyházVeresegyház AszódAszód
PomázPomáz DunakesziDunakeszi Motorway
PilisvörösvarPilisvörösvar Major road
Duna (Danub e)
Beautiful waterlilies in the marshes around Ócsa FótFót GÖDÖLLŐGÖDÖLLŐ TuraTura Major road under construction
SolymárSolymár Duna (Danub e) Secondary road
ZsámbékZsámbék CsömörCsömör KerepesKerepes Minor road
Getting Around KistarcsaKistarcsa IsaszegIsaszeg Main railway
GyőrGyőr
Budapest has an international airport, and from here BudakesziBudakeszi Minor railway
destinations such as Szentendre, Gödöllő and Ócsa are International border
best reached by train, on the Budapest sub urban rail PécelPécel JászberényJászberény Regional border
network (HÉV, see p310). Other sightseeing areas can be BiatorbágyBiatorbágy BudaörsBudaörs BUDAPESTBUDAPEST
visited by train or car. During the summer months, the
most relaxing way to reach the Danube Bend is by Mahart TörökbálintTörökbálint SülysápSülysáp
Passnave motor boat, departing north wards from Vigadó VecsésVecsés GyömrőGyömrő
tér in Buda pest. Services run to Esztergom and stop at ÉrdÉrd GyálGyál
most towns along the way. Other services go to Székes-Székes- ÜllőÜllő
Szentendre and Vác. fehérvárfehérvár Szigetszent-Szigetszent- MonorMonor
miklósmiklós
SzigethalomSzigethalom
Százhalom-Százhalom-
battabatta
DunavarsányDunavarsány ÓCSAÓCSA InárcsInárcs SzolnokSzolnok
Ráckevei-Duna
Ráckevei-Duna ÚjhartyánÚjhartyán
ErcsiErcsi PESTPEST
KiskunlacházaKiskunlacháza BugyiBugyi
DabasDabas
RÁCKEVERÁCKEVE
KecskemétKecskemét

DömsödDömsöd
Dunaúj-Dunaúj- KalocsaKalocsa
városváros
0 kilometres 10
0 miles 10
A statue of Justice, crowning the Baroque
Inside Esztergom Basilica, centre of Catholicism in Hungary town hall in Vác
For hotels and restaurants see pp264–269 and pp276–285 For additional keys to symbols see back flap


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AROUND BUD APEST  135


Sights at a Glance
1 Ráckeve
2 Ócsa
3 Gödöllő p136 & pp138–9
4 Vácrátót
5 Vác
6 Szentendre pp142–4
7 Visegrád
8 Zebegény
9 Nagybörzsöny & Duna-Ipoly
NAGYBÖRZSÖNY National Park
0 Esztergom pp146–9
DUNA-IPOLY
NATIONAL PARK
ZEBEGÉNY The Royal Palace in Gödöllő, built by Count Antal Grassalkovich
Kosd
ESZTERGOM
VISEGRÁD VÁC
Komárom
Leányfalu
Dorog VÁCRÁTÓT
SZENTENDRE Göd Debrecen
Key
Veresegyház Aszód
Pomáz Dunakeszi Motorway
Pilisvörösvar Major road
Duna (Danub e) Secondary road
Solymár Fót GÖDÖLLŐ Tura Major road under construction
Kerepes
Zsámbék Csömör Kistarcsa Minor road
Main railway
Győr Isaszeg Minor railway
Budakeszi
International border
Pécel Jászberény Regional border
Budaörs BUDAPEST
Biatorbágy
Törökbálint Sülysáp
Vecsés Gyömrő
Érd Gyál
Üllő
Székes- Szigetszent-
fehérvár miklós Monor
Szigethalom
Százhalom-
batta
Dunavarsány ÓCSA Inárcs Szolnok
Ráckevei-Duna Újhartyán
Ercsi PEST
Kiskunlacháza Bugyi
Dabas
RÁCKEVE
Kecskemét

Dömsöd
Dunaúj- Kalocsa
város
0 kilometres 10
0 miles 10
A statue of Justice, crowning the Baroque
town hall in Vác
For additional keys to symbols see back flap


134-135_EW_Hungary.indd 135 18/09/17 3:40 pm

136  HUNGAR Y REGION B Y REGION AROUND BUD APEST  137


fire) has ensured that this is one Opposite the mansion, on the and 1764. The façade – with two
of the best-preserved Roman- other side of the railway tracks, Corinthian half­columns guarding
esque churches in the country. is what is left of old Gödöllő, the entrance – is adorned with
Many of the houses that mainly the cluster of buildings an intricate wrought­iron balcony.
surround the church date from around Szabadság tér. At No. 5 Next door is the Sisters of Charity
the 18th century, and all are is the oldest building in the town, Chapel and Hospital, built in the
protected buildings. One contains dating from 1661. Once the 17th century and still a function­
a small ethnographic museum, home of local landowner Ferenc ing hospital to this day (a more
with collections of folk costumes, Hamvay, it is today the excellent modern section was recently
tools and dolls. The house also Gödöllő Town Museum (Gödöllő incorporated into the back of
serves as the visitors’ centre for Városi Múzeum). Besides displays the hospital building, cleverly
the Ócsa Nature Reserve telling the story of the town kept out of view from the square).
(Ócsai Tájvédelmi Körzet), one and of its greatest patron, Antal Rock garden at the National The pink Neo­Renaissance
of the most accessible nature Grassalkovich, there is a colourful Botanical Garden, Vácrátót building opposite the hospital
reserves in Hungary. The reserve exhibition focusing on the works was for a short time the Bishop’s
surrounds the village, and apart of the Gödöllő Artists’ Colony. This O National Botanical Garden Palace, then the Vác residence
from one small area visitors can group of artists, active between Alkotmány utca 2–4. Tel (28) 36 01 22. of Habs burg Empress Maria
freely explore it. Much of the 1901 and 1920, was inspired by Open Gardens: Apr–Oct: 8am–6pm Theresa, who adored the town.
reserve consists of reedy bog or William Morris and John Ruskin daily; Nov–Mar: 8am–4pm daily. Since 1802 the building has
marsh, known as turjános, which and pursued ideals of communal Greenhouses: Apr–Oct: 8am– 3:45pm been the home of Hungary’s
once covered a vast area here. rural living. Behind the museum Tue–Sun (to 1:15pm Fri). & 8 7 Deaf and Dumb Society.
The marshes are home to rare is the Calvinist Church, built here On the southern side of the
plant and animal species, in 1745 with money donated square stands the Domi nican
including tortoises, lizards and a by Grassalkovich, who had 5 Vác Church of Our Lady of Victory,
number of birds, such as harriers demol ished the town’s original 40 km (25 miles) north of Budapest. on which construction began in
and corncrakes. Guided tours Calvinist church to make way Road Map D3. * 33,000. £ from 1699. Due to the War of Indepen­
Magnificent frescoes in the Serbian Orthodox Church in Ráckeve depart from the visitors’ centre. for his palace. dence, however, work on the
Budapest. @ from Budapest.
1 Ráckeve greatest military strategists, O Ócsa Nature Reserve E Gödöllő Town Museum n Tourinform, Március 15 tér 17, interior decoration only began
in 1755. As a result the façade is
(27) 31 61 60. ( daily, behind
43 km (27 miles) southwest of Prince Eugene of Savoy. Credited Dr. Békési Panyik Andor utca 4–6. Szabadság tér 5. Tel (28) 42 20 03. Március 15 tér. ∑ www.visitvac.hu sober, while the interior is rich in
Buda pest. Road Map C4. * 8,500. with the expulsion of the Turks Tel (30) 494 33 68. Open Mar–Oct: Open 10am–4pm Wed–Sun. & Rococo artwork. The special cli­
£ from Budapest. @ from Buda pest. at the end of the 17th century, 9am–6pm Tue–Sun; Feb–Nov: 9am– Vác has stood on the eastern matic conditions of the crypt have
n Tourinform, Eötvös utca 1, (24) 42 Prince Eugene built himself a 4pm Tue–Fri, 10am–5pm Sat & Sun. bank of the Danube since the conserved naturally mummified
97 47. country mansion known as the & 8 4 Vácrátót year 1000. Destroyed by war in bodies, coffins, clothes and other
Savoyai Castle, on what is now 35 km (22 miles) from Budapest. the late 17th century, the town objects buried with the dead.
The small town of Ráckeve has Kossuth Lajos utca. The elegant, Road Map D3. * 1,700. £ from was rebuilt. Its centre, around These are on display at the
for centuries been considered very early Baroque façade of Budapest. @ from Budapest, Vác. Március 15 tér, dates from the exhibition inside the church.
the capital of Csepel Island, the mansion has been preserved. 18th century and was a thriving At the northernmost end of
which extends 54 km (34 miles) Although the castle is currently The National Botanical Garden marketplace until 1951. The the old town, on Köztársaság út,
south along the middle of the closed to the public, its formal (Nemzeti Botanikuskert) at market itself survives, though stands the only triumphal arch
Danube from Budapest. Ráckeve gardens can be admired from Vácrátót is among the oldest it is now hidden behind the in Hungary. This was built in
(Rác means “Serb” in Hungarian) the river. in Hungary, and at present the Dominican Church, a Baroque 1764, ostensibly to honour
was founded in the 15th century largest. Founded in 1870 by masterpiece built between 1734 Maria Theresa.
by Serbs from Keve, who fled 2 Ócsa Count Sándor Vigyázó, the gar­
Serbia after the Turkish invasion. dens have been open to the
The oldest building in the 30 km (19 miles) west of Buda pest. public since 1961. Among
town is the Serbian Ortho dox Road Map D3. * 8,500. £ from the 12,000 different kinds of
Church on Viola utca, built by Budapest. @ from Budapest. n plant covering over 2 sq km
some of the first Serbs to arrive Tourinform, Bajcsy-Zsilinszky utca 2, (0.8 sq miles) are more than
here. Dating back to 1487, this (29) 57 87 50. 1,000 species that are native to
is the oldest Ortho dox church Romanesque façade of the Calvinist Church Hungary, as well as plants of the
in Hungary. Its walls are covered The part-Romanesque, part- in Ócsa Russian steppes, Central Asia,
in well-preserved frescoes, Gothic Calvinist Church at the Rocky Moun tains in the US,
the first telling the story of the Ócsa was originally built in 3 Gödöllő and trees and shrubs from the
Nativity and the last depicting the 13th century by the Far East. Waterfalls, rock gardens,
the Resur rection. A vast, Premonstratensian Order, 35 km (22 miles) northeast of Budapest. lakes and many statues add to
colourful iconostasis separates about which there is a small Road Map D3. * 29,000. £ HÉV the enjoyment, while frogs are
the sanctuary from the nave. exhibition in one of the church’s from Budapest. n Tour in form, Királyi a frequent sight along the paths
Two side chapels with side rooms. Used as a mosque Kastély, (28) 41 54 02. and walk ways of the gardens.
Renaissance elements were during the Turkish invasion, Inside the greenhouses are a
added in the 16th century. it was converted back into a Gödöllő is most famous for its further 2,800 different types of
Ráckeve’s peaceful and church during the 18th century, restored Baroque palace, the plant and flower, as well as a
convenient situation made it the and thorough restoration in Antal Grassalkovich Mansion fascinating exhibition on the
country home of one of Europe’s 1920 (following damage by a (see pp138–9), built in 1741. flora of the tropics. The Dominican Church in Vác, with its simple exterior belying the riches within
For hotels and restaurants see pp264–269 and pp276–285


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AROUND BUD APEST  137


Opposite the mansion, on the and 1764. The façade – with two
other side of the railway tracks, Corinthian half­columns guarding
is what is left of old Gödöllő, the entrance – is adorned with
mainly the cluster of buildings an intricate wrought­iron balcony.
around Szabadság tér. At No. 5 Next door is the Sisters of Charity
is the oldest building in the town, Chapel and Hospital, built in the
dating from 1661. Once the 17th century and still a function­
home of local landowner Ferenc ing hospital to this day (a more
Hamvay, it is today the excellent modern section was recently
Gödöllő Town Museum (Gödöllő incorporated into the back of
Városi Múzeum). Besides displays the hospital building, cleverly
telling the story of the town kept out of view from the square).
and of its greatest patron, Antal Rock garden at the National The pink Neo­Renaissance
Grassalkovich, there is a colourful Botanical Garden, Vácrátót building opposite the hospital
exhibition focusing on the works was for a short time the Bishop’s
of the Gödöllő Artists’ Colony. This O National Botanical Garden Palace, then the Vác residence
group of artists, active between Alkotmány utca 2–4. Tel (28) 36 01 22. of Habs burg Empress Maria
1901 and 1920, was inspired by Open Gardens: Apr–Oct: 8am–6pm Theresa, who adored the town.
William Morris and John Ruskin daily; Nov–Mar: 8am–4pm daily. Since 1802 the building has
and pursued ideals of communal Greenhouses: Apr–Oct: 8am– 3:45pm been the home of Hungary’s
rural living. Behind the museum Tue–Sun (to 1:15pm Fri). & 8 7 Deaf and Dumb Society.
is the Calvinist Church, built here On the southern side of the
in 1745 with money donated square stands the Domi nican
by Grassalkovich, who had 5 Vác Church of Our Lady of Victory,
demol ished the town’s original 40 km (25 miles) north of Budapest. on which construction began in
Calvinist church to make way Road Map D3. * 33,000. £ from 1699. Due to the War of Indepen­
for his palace. dence, however, work on the
Budapest. @ from Budapest.
n Tourinform, Március 15 tér 17, interior decoration only began
E Gödöllő Town Museum (27) 31 61 60. ( daily, behind in 1755. As a result the façade is
Szabadság tér 5. Tel (28) 42 20 03. Március 15 tér. ∑ www.visitvac.hu sober, while the interior is rich in
Open 10am–4pm Wed–Sun. & Rococo artwork. The special cli­
Vác has stood on the eastern matic conditions of the crypt have
bank of the Danube since the conserved naturally mummified
4 Vácrátót year 1000. Destroyed by war in bodies, coffins, clothes and other
the late 17th century, the town objects buried with the dead.
35 km (22 miles) from Budapest.
Road Map D3. * 1,700. £ from was rebuilt. Its centre, around These are on display at the
Budapest. @ from Budapest, Vác. Március 15 tér, dates from the exhibition inside the church.
18th century and was a thriving At the northernmost end of
The National Botanical Garden marketplace until 1951. The the old town, on Köztársaság út,
(Nemzeti Botanikuskert) at market itself survives, though stands the only triumphal arch
Vácrátót is among the oldest it is now hidden behind the in Hungary. This was built in
in Hungary, and at present the Dominican Church, a Baroque 1764, ostensibly to honour
largest. Founded in 1870 by masterpiece built between 1734 Maria Theresa.
Count Sándor Vigyázó, the gar­
dens have been open to the
public since 1961. Among
the 12,000 different kinds of
plant covering over 2 sq km
(0.8 sq miles) are more than
1,000 species that are native to
Hungary, as well as plants of the
Russian steppes, Central Asia,
the Rocky Moun tains in the US,
and trees and shrubs from the
Far East. Waterfalls, rock gardens,
lakes and many statues add to
the enjoyment, while frogs are
a frequent sight along the paths
and walk ways of the gardens.
Inside the greenhouses are a
further 2,800 different types of
plant and flower, as well as a
fascinating exhibition on the
flora of the tropics. The Dominican Church in Vác, with its simple exterior belying the riches within




136-137_EW_Hungary.indd 137 18/09/17 3:40 pm

138  HUNGAR Y REGION B Y REGION AROUND BUD APEST  139

Royal Palace of Gödöllő . Grand Hall VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
A vast ballroom, with
Seemingly lifted directly from a fairytale, the Baroque marble and gilded stucco Practical Information
decoration on walls and
Gödöllő Royal Palace is as enchanting now as it was ceiling, the Hall also has a Gödöllő, 28 km (17 miles)
the day it was completed in 1748. Designed by András hidden music room above northeast of Buda pest.
Road Map D3. Tel (28) 41 01 24.
Mayerhoffer, the palace was commissioned by the the entrance. Open Apr–Oct: 10am–6pm daily;
flamboyant Hungarian aristocrat Antal Grassalkovich I, Nov–Mar: 10am–4pm (to 5pm
a confidant of Empress Maria Theresa. Home to Hungarian Sat & Sun). & 8 tours of palace
rulers from Emperor Franz Joseph to Governor Horthy, and grounds available. 7 - =
_ check website for special
it is Franz Joseph’s wife, the beautiful Sisi, who has left events. ∑ kiralyikastely.hu
the most indelible mark on the palace.
Transport
£ @
. Franz Joseph’s Reception Room
The walls of the Emperor’s suite
are covered in the finest red silks.
The wooden floor is the original, Grand Staircase
from the 18th century. The elegant double
stair case features
stucco decoration and
Main entrance Rococo motifs. The
balustrade is a simple,
open design in
painted stone.








. Chapel
The Chapel, consecrated
in 1749, replaced the original
Calvinist village church. It features
two Rococo pulpits and a mosaic
portrait of Antal Grassalkovich I.

KEY Baroque Painted Room
This informal room, its walls
1 Bath and Orangerie Minor Coronation Hall covered with paintings, is
2 The Oratory has a full-size Originally the king’s today furnished with items
portrait of Antal Grassal kovich I bedroom, an oversized from Queen Elizabeth’s
above the marble fireplace. and stunning depiction of private waiting room
3 The Wardrobe of Franz Joseph I Franz Joseph’s coronation at Budapest Nyugati
contains replicas of his vast in 1867, commissioned by railway station.
collection of uniforms, with which himself, is the centre piece
the Emperor was obsessed – he of this room.
was rarely seen out of uniform.
4 Below the Dressing Room of
Queen Elizabeth is a secret room in
which key negotiations leading to
the Austro-Hungarian Compromise The Palace
of 1867 (see p46) were held. from the Park
5 The Queen Elizabeth Memorial Used as an old
Exhibition suite has been restored people’s home and to . Queen Elizabeth’s Reception Room
to its original violet, the Queen’s house Soviet troops A symbolic portrait here depicts
favourite colour. On display are after World War II, the Elizabeth as a Hungarian queen, dressed
her most cherished paintings. palace was rebuilt and in traditional Hungarian costume and
reno vated in 1986–91. mending the coronation robe.
For hotels and restaurants see pp264–269 and pp276–285 The spectacular ruins of the Citadel in Visegrád


138-139_EW_Hungary.indd 138 18/09/17 3:40 pm 138-139_EW_Hungary.indd 139 18/09/17 3:40 pm

AROUND BUD APEST  139


. Grand Hall VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
A vast ballroom, with
marble and gilded stucco Practical Information
decoration on walls and Gödöllő, 28 km (17 miles)
ceiling, the Hall also has a northeast of Buda pest.
hidden music room above Road Map D3. Tel (28) 41 01 24.
the entrance. Open Apr–Oct: 10am–6pm daily;
Nov–Mar: 10am–4pm (to 5pm
Sat & Sun). & 8 tours of palace
and grounds available. 7 - =
_ check website for special
events. ∑ kiralyikastely.hu
Transport
£ @
Grand Staircase
The elegant double
stair case features
stucco decoration and
Main entrance Rococo motifs. The
balustrade is a simple,
open design in
painted stone.



















Baroque Painted Room
This informal room, its walls
covered with paintings, is
today furnished with items
from Queen Elizabeth’s
private waiting room
at Budapest Nyugati
railway station.









. Queen Elizabeth’s Reception Room
A symbolic portrait here depicts
Elizabeth as a Hungarian queen, dressed
in traditional Hungarian costume and
mending the coronation robe.
The spectacular ruins of the Citadel in Visegrád



138-139_EW_Hungary.indd 139 18/09/17 3:40 pm

140-141_EW_Hungary.indd 140 18/09/17 3:37 pm 140-141_EW_Hungary.indd 141 18/09/17 3:37 pm

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142  HUNGAR Y REGION B Y REGION SZENTENDRE  143

6 Szentendre seat of the Serbian Orthodox P Bogdányi Street VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Patriarch and so officially a Bogdányi utca
For any visitor, Szentendre is a delight. Its Baroque cathedral. Built in 1756–64, it Winding its way north from Practical Information
architecture, Orthodox churches, galleries, cobbled is a sublime mix of Baroque Fő tér, Bogdányi utca is a lively 25 km (16 miles) north of
streets and riverside setting make it an idyllic place and Rococo styles, its clock thoroughfare lined with his- Budapest. Road Map D3.
to visit. A horse-drawn carriage ride along the Danube tower topped by a tall spire. torical buildings, and packed * 22,000. n Tourinform,
Dumtsa Jenő utca 22, (26)
at sunset will be an unforgettable experience. Inside it contains icons of with many shops, stalls and 31 79 65.
Although known as the largest Serb settlement in Orthodox saints by Vasili Ostoic portrait painters. ∑ szentendreprogram.hu
The Imre Ámos/Margit Anna
and a red marble altar.
Hun gary – Serbs fled here from the Turks after the Battle In the gardens, the Museum of Museum at No. 10 commem- Transport
of Kosovo Polje in 1389, and again after the Battle of Serbian Orthodox Ecclesi asti cal orates the life and work of £ Szentendre (hév). @
Belgrade in 1690 – it was the Romans who founded the Art has some 2,000 icons, painters Imre Ámos and Margit Dunakanyar Körút. 4 Dunakorzó
town in the 4th century. Many Serbs moved away in vestments, treasures and art Anna, who married in 1936 and (summer only).
the 1920s and artists moved in, attracted by the town’s The Szamos Marzipan Museum, a homage objects, all brought here in moved to Szentendre in 1937.
the 19th century after the
to confectionery
Ámos, a Jew, was taken to a
air and light; it remains popular with artists today.
closure of their original host labour camp in was killed by a traitor at
children of all ages will delight churches: testament to the Vojvodina in 1940, the Battle of Kosovo
P Fő Square painter János Kmetty in the exhibition of a wide demise of the Serb population where he continued Polje in 1389. His
Fő tér (1889–1975), a pioneering range of objects, including of Hungary (see p144). to paint. He was body was taken
Fő tér is the bustling heart of Cubist who lived here for 45 flowers, buildings and figurines deported to back to Serbia in the
Szentendre, which is packed years, from 1930 until his death. – all meticulously and skilfully Germany in 1944, 19th century, and
with hawkers and street artists crafted from marzipan. where he died, the church was later
in summer. Its wrought­iron E Kmetty Museum probably in a destroyed in a fire.
cross was raised in 1763 by Fő tér 21. Tel (26) 92 09 90. Closed P Templom Square concentration camp. A wine barrel sign in Preobra zenska
survivors of the last major call ahead to check. & 8 7 Templom tér His wife Margit lived Bogdányi Street Church, at the top of
out break of bubonic plague. E Szentendre Gallery At the top of a small hill above until 1991. Her Cubist the street, built in
On the Danube side of Fő Fő tér 2–5. Tel (26) 92 09 90. Fő tér, this walled square, the paintings are on the ground 1741–6, is another fine Baroque
tér is its tallest building, the Open 10am–5pm Wed–Sun centre of the town in the Middle floor, while Ámos’s work, includ- Serbian Ortho dox church. The
Blagovestenska Church, built (to 5:30pm Apr–Sep). & 7 Ages, stands on the site of the ing his accounts of life in a annual Serb Folk Festival takes
from 1752 to 1754 to designs original Roman fort of Ulcisia. labour camp, is on the first floor. place here on 19 August.
by András Mayer hoffer. Its E Szamos Marzipan The Catholic church in the A cross on the corner of
elegantly curved balcony and Museum middle of the square was first Bogdányi utca and Lázár tér E Imre Ámos/Margit
tall, split­level belfry are models Dumtsa Jenő utca 12. Tel (26) 31 built in Romanesque style stands where the body of the Anna Museum
of late Baroque simplicity. Inside, 05 45. Open May–Sep: 9am–8pm; in the 14th century and was Icons of Orthodox saints in the legendary Serb ruler Prince Bogdányi utca 10. Open Apr–Sep:
the choir, frescoes of Emperor Oct–Apr: 9am–7pm. renovated in Baroque style in Belgrade Church Lázár once lay in a church. He 2–6pm Wed–Sun. & 8 7
Con stantine and a large, ∑ szamosmarcipan.hu the 18th century. A few original
colourful iconostasis depicting Since 1935, Szamos has been features remain, including the
the Annunciation vie for the making marzipan and other sundial on the right­hand side. Szentendre City Centre Hungarian
Open-Air
visitor’s attention. sweet treats; today, the name Opposite the church is a 1 Fő Square Museum MA R T I N OV ICS U T CA BARTOK ÚT SZERB U T C A
Next door is the pastel is nothing short of legendary charming building, home 2 Szamos Marzipan Museum Art Mill
pink Szentendre Gallery, in the world of Hungarian to the Czóbel Museum. Béla 3 Templom Square PÁTRIÁRKA UTCA
featuring the works of local confec tionery. Czóbel, a painter famous for 4 Belgrade Church and Museum BOGDÁNYI UTCA D UN A KO RZÓ
artists. The building was once The museum in Szentendre landscapes and nudes, lived of Serbian Orthodox FU L C O DEÁK UT Belgrade Church
& Serb Orthodox
a terrace of six identical opened in 2003. There is a in Szentendre from 1946 to Ecclesiastical Art Museum
merchants’ houses. It was shop and small café on the his death in 1976.
converted into a gallery in 1987. ground floor offering pastries, 5 Bogdányi Street AL KO T MÁ N Y U TC A Imre Ámos-Margit
Anna Memorial
TEMPLOM
Opposite, in an early bonbons and cakes. These can E Czóbel Museum 6 Margit Kovács Collection RÁKÓCZI U T C A TÉR Museum
19th­century Saxon­style house, be enjoyed immediately or Templom tér 1. Tel (26) 92 09 90. 7 Barcsay Collection HU NYADI UTC A Danub e
is the Kmetty Museum, devoted be boxed up for later indulgence. Open Apr–Sep: 2–6pm Wed–Sun 8 Hungarian Open-Air Museum Town Hall Church
Parish
to the life and works of the Upstairs in the museum, & 8 7 FŐ TÉR GÖRÖG UTCA
Margit Kovács
Collection
R Belgrade Church and
BA JC S Y- Z S IL I NS ZK Y U T C A
Museum of Serbian Szamos Marcipán Culture
House
Museum
Orthodox Ecclesi astical Art KAN ONO K UTC A Peter-Paul PÉTER-PÁL UTCA
Szerb Ortodox Egyházművészeti Church Barcsay
Gyűjtemény, Könyvtár és Levéltár Collection
Pátriárka utca 5. Tel (26) 31 23 99.
Open May–Sep: 10am–6pm Tue– B Ü K K Ö S PA R T KUC SE RA U TCA D U M TS A J E N Ő U T C A D U N A K O
Sun; Mar, Apr, Oct–Dec: 10am–4pm
Tue–Sun; Jan & Feb: 10am–4pm B Ü K K Ö S PA R T KÖ R U T CA
Fri–Sun. & 7 0 metres 100 PAPRI K A B I R Ó U T C A JÓ KA I M Ó R U T CA R ZÓ
Bükkös Stream
Built by Serbs (but often known 0 yards 100
as the Greek Church) the Bel­
Monument and pretty coloured houses in Fő Square grade Church is the Hun garian Požarevačka UTCA KOSSUTH
Church
Train and Bus Stations
For hotels and restaurants see pp264–269 and pp276–285 500 m (550 yards) For keys to map symbols see back flap
142-143_EW_Hungary.indd 142 18/09/17 3:40 pm 142-143_EW_Hungary.indd 143 18/09/17 3:40 pm

SZENTENDRE  143


seat of the Serbian Orthodox P Bogdányi Street VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Patriarch and so officially a Bogdányi utca
cathedral. Built in 1756–64, it Winding its way north from Practical Information
is a sublime mix of Baroque Fő tér, Bogdányi utca is a lively 25 km (16 miles) north of
and Rococo styles, its clock thoroughfare lined with his- Budapest. Road Map D3.
tower topped by a tall spire. torical buildings, and packed * 22,000. n Tourinform,
Inside it contains icons of with many shops, stalls and Dumtsa Jenő utca 22, (26)
Orthodox saints by Vasili Ostoic portrait painters. 31 79 65.
∑ szentendreprogram.hu
and a red marble altar. The Imre Ámos/Margit Anna
In the gardens, the Museum of Museum at No. 10 commem- Transport
Serbian Orthodox Ecclesi asti cal orates the life and work of £ Szentendre (hév). @
Art has some 2,000 icons, painters Imre Ámos and Margit Dunakanyar Körút. 4 Dunakorzó
vestments, treasures and art Anna, who married in 1936 and (summer only).
objects, all brought here in moved to Szentendre in 1937.
the 19th century after the Ámos, a Jew, was taken to a
closure of their original host labour camp in was killed by a traitor at
churches: testament to the Vojvodina in 1940, the Battle of Kosovo
demise of the Serb population where he continued Polje in 1389. His
of Hungary (see p144). to paint. He was body was taken
deported to back to Serbia in the
Germany in 1944, 19th century, and
where he died, the church was later
probably in a destroyed in a fire.
concentration camp. A wine barrel sign in Preobra zenska
His wife Margit lived Bogdányi Street Church, at the top of
until 1991. Her Cubist the street, built in
paintings are on the ground 1741–6, is another fine Baroque
floor, while Ámos’s work, includ- Serbian Ortho dox church. The
ing his accounts of life in a annual Serb Folk Festival takes
labour camp, is on the first floor. place here on 19 August.
A cross on the corner of
Bogdányi utca and Lázár tér E Imre Ámos/Margit
stands where the body of the Anna Museum
Icons of Orthodox saints in the legendary Serb ruler Prince Bogdányi utca 10. Open Apr–Sep:
Belgrade Church Lázár once lay in a church. He 2–6pm Wed–Sun. & 8 7

Szentendre City Centre Hungarian
Open-Air SZERB U T C A
1 Fő Square Museum MA R T I N OV ICS U T CA BARTOK ÚT
2 Szamos Marzipan Museum Art Mill
3 Templom Square PÁTRIÁRKA UTCA
4 Belgrade Church and Museum FU L C O DEÁK UT Belgrade Church BOGDÁNYI UTCA D UN A KO RZÓ
of Serbian Orthodox & Serb Orthodox
Museum
Ecclesiastical Art
5 Bogdányi Street AL KO T MÁ N Y U TC A Imre Ámos-Margit
6 Margit Kovács Collection TEMPLOM Anna Memorial
TÉR
Museum
7 Barcsay Collection RÁKÓCZI U T C A HU NYADI UTC A
8 Hungarian Open-Air Museum Parish Danub e
Town Hall Church
FŐ TÉR GÖRÖG UTCA
Margit Kovács
Collection
BA JC S Y- Z S IL I NS ZK Y U T C A
Culture
KAN ONO K UTC A Peter-Paul Szamos Marcipán PÉTER-PÁL UTCA House
Museum
D U M TS A J E N Ő U T C A D U N A K O
Church
Barcsay
Collection
B Ü K K Ö S PA R T
KUC SE RA U TCA
0 metres 100 PAPRI K A B I R Ó U T C A KÖ R U T CA JÓ KA I M Ó R U T CA R ZÓ
B Ü K K Ö S PA R T
Bükkös Stream
0 yards 100
Požarevačka UTCA KOSSUTH
Church
Train and Bus Stations For keys to map symbols see back flap
500 m (550 yards)
142-143_EW_Hungary.indd 143 18/09/17 3:40 pm

144  HUNGAR Y AREA B Y AREA AROUND BUD APEST  145


E Margit Kovács Ceramics 7 Visegrád lived here most of his life until
Collection 40 km (25 miles) north of Budapest. his death in 1960. The museum
Kovács Margit Kerámiagyűjtemény Road Map C3. * 1,700. £ @ from displays personal artifacts,
Vastagh György utca 1. Tel (26) 92 Budapest. 4 from Budapest, family photos and some of his
09 90. Open 10am–6pm daily. & 7 Esztergom; from Szentendre (summer works, including A Bench in the
This 18th-century building only). ∑ visitvisegrad.hu Garden (1943).
(whose entrance is somewhat
hidden at the back of a court- Set on the narrowest stretch E István Szőnyi Memorial
yard) was originally a salt of the Danube, Visegrád is a Museum
storage facility, and became a popular village with visitors Bartóky utca 7. Tel (27) 62 01 61. Open
vicarage for the Blago vestenska dominated by its spectacular Mar–Oct: 9am–6pm Tue–Sun; Nov–Feb:
Church a century later. Since ruined Citadel. Built in the 13th 10am–4pm Tue–Sun. & 8
1973 it has been Szentendre’s century by King Béla IV, this was Hungarian and German. 7
best gallery, devoted to the once one of the finest royal ∑ szonyimuzeum.hu
eclectic work of Margit Kovács palaces in Hungary. The massive Zebegény’s Roman Catholic church, built in
(1902–77), a ceramic artist. outer walls are still intact, and Secessionist style 9 Nagybörzsöny
Kovács attended Budapest’s offer the visitor superb views. 8 Zebegény & Duna-Ipoly
School of Applied Arts before A thatched building in the Hungarian Open-Air Museum in Szentendre Halfway down the hill, in the National Park
learning the fundamentals in Salamon Tower, is the Mátyás 30 km (19 miles) east of Vác. Road
the pottery workshop of Herta E Hungarian Open-Air comprising houses, churches, Museum, a collection of items Map C3. * 1,200. £ from Budapest. 24 km (15 miles) north of Visegrád.
Bücher in Vienna, from 1926 to Museum schools, mills, wine presses, excavated from the ruins of 4 from Budapest. Road Map C2/3. @ from Szob
1928. She developed her skills Szabadtéri Néprajzi Múzeum forges and stables. Worth looking the Royal Palace. Built by King (to Nagybörzsöny). ∑s dinpi.hu
further in the State School for Sztaravodai út. Tel (26) 50 25 00. out for in particular are the three Sigismund in the 14th century, Famous for fine views of the
Applied Arts in Munich, before Open Apr–Oct: 9am–5pm Tue–Sun; huge outdoor ovens in the it was renovated a century later, Danube Bend, the tiny village of Home to the fine 14th-century
returning to Hungary, where Nov–Mar: check website. & 8 7 village of the Great Plain in magnificent Renais sance style, Zebegény also boasts one stone Romanesque Church of
she produced most of her best- ∑ skanzen.hu (brought to the museum from by Mátyás Corvinus (see p41). It of Hun gary’s few Catholic St Stephen, a working mid-
known works. Hungary’s largest and best the village of Kisbodak), the fell derelict in the 16th century churches in Seces sion 19th-century water mill
Nursing (1948) is an open-air village roadside crucifixes in the Central after the Turkish invasion and style. Designed by (open to the public) and
example of Kovács’s museum is 4 km Transdanubian village, and the was then buried in a mudslide. Károly Kós, Dénes a mining museum,
obsession with (2 miles) from flint-stone walls of the Bakony The ruins were not rediscovered Györgyi and Béla Nagybörzsöny is best
the Madonna, a Szentendre; buses region houses. until 1934, when excavations Jánszky and built from known as the gateway
common theme in depart every 30 min- All of the buildings in the took place. Now largely recon- 1910 to 1914, its plain to the Duna-Ipoly
many of her early utes (every hour at museum are open to the public, structed and whitewashed, façade has Neo- National Park, one
works, while the later weekends) from the and some are working museums, several rooms recreate life in Romanesque traits. It of the largest in
Bread Cutter (1962) bus station on with artisans demonstrating the Renais sance Palace. is its sharply angled the country. The
is a witty satire of Dunakanyar körút traditional skills from pottery and tiered, Christmas- Buda Hill caves
the idealized (stop No. 7). The to wine making to visitors. + Citadel tree-like roof that sets the and the Sas-hegy
Hun garian peasant museum, opened in At various times of the year Tel (26) 39 81 01. Open Mar–Oct: church apart, while the tall nature trail outside
woman from a 1967, is spread over special courses are organized 9am–5pm daily; May–Sep: 9am–6pm adjoining spire adds Budapest are also
feminist perspective. Margit Kovács Collection, 5.5 sq km (0.2 sq miles) for visitors who want to acquire daily; Oct–Nov: 9am–4pm daily; Dec– elegance. Inside, the Signpost in Duna-Ipoly within its borders.
Szentendre and features a recon- traditional skills. Feb: 10am–4pm Fri–Sun. colourful frescoes of St National Park The park is home
structed village from The Skanzen Nostalgia Train E Mátyás Museum Constantine are the last to more than 70
E Barcsay Collection each of Hungary’s five historic takes in the main sights of Salamon-torony utca. Tel (26) 59 major works by the master protected plants and more than
Barcsay Gyűjtemény regions. Each of the five villages Skanzen. Visitors should allow 70 10. Open May–Oct: 9am–5pm painter Kriesch Aladár Körösfői half of Hungary’s native bird
Dumtsa Jenő utca 10. Tel (26) 92 09 is complete and self-contained, plenty of time for a visit here. Wed–Sun. & (1863–1920). species (including black and
90. Open Apr–Sep: 2–6pm Wed–Sun. P Royal Palace Behind the church is the István white-backed woodpeckers).
& 7 Fő utca 23. Tel (26) 59 70 10. Szőnyi Memorial Museum. One A narrow-gauge railway
This museum, located in a fine Hungary’s Serbs Open Mar–Oct: 9am–5pm; Nov–Feb: of the most prominent Hungarian runs at week ends from
19th-century Saxon house, is The development of the towns and cities of the 10am–4pm. & 8 Expres sionist painters, Szőnyi Nagybörzsöny to Nagyirtás
dedicated to Jenő Barcsay Danube Bend, especially Szentendre (see pp142–3), across the Börzsöny Hills, from
(1900–88), who settled in was marked by two major waves of Serb migrations where well-marked hiking trails
Szen tendre in 1926 after to the region. The first, when around 10,000 Serbs fan out across the park. There is
studying art in Budapest and fled north following a defeat by the Turks also a long trail from Nagy bör-
Paris, where he was influenced at Kosovo Polje in 1389, was followed zsöny itself, leading up to Nagy
by the work of Cézanne. Widely by a larger migration in 1690 after Hideg Hegy peak, which offers
regarded as the first Hungarian another defeat at the hands of the views across to Slovakia.
Turks. This second time more than 30,000
Construc tivist, he strongly Serbs fled north, with as many as 6,000 Serbs A second narrow-gauge
affected his contemporaries. settling in Szentendre, founding churches and railway, from Kismaros to
Barcsay’s finest works are on schools. In the 18th century, Empress Maria Theresa Királyrét, opens up the
display here. Among the most sent many of Hungary’s Serbs to settle in the southern part of the park.
representative are Street at border lands of the Vojvodina, rewarding There are hiking trails from
Szentendre (1932), Landscape them with large parcels of land. Today, just Crucifix from the Serb Orthodox Királyrét across the hills, and
at Szentendre (1934) and 3,800 Serbs officially remain in Hungary. Museum in Szentendre on to Nógrád, where there
Female Portrait (1936). The spectacular ruins of the citadel, towering over Visegrád is a spectacular ruined castle.
For hotels and restaurants see p264–269 and pp276–285


144-145_EW_Hungary.indd 144 18/09/17 3:40 pm 144-145_EW_Hungary.indd 145 18/09/17 3:40 pm

AROUND BUD APEST  145

7 Visegrád lived here most of his life until
his death in 1960. The museum
40 km (25 miles) north of Budapest.
Road Map C3. * 1,700. £ @ from displays personal artifacts,
Budapest. 4 from Budapest, family photos and some of his
Esztergom; from Szentendre (summer works, including A Bench in the
only). ∑ visitvisegrad.hu Garden (1943).
Set on the narrowest stretch E István Szőnyi Memorial
of the Danube, Visegrád is a Museum
popular village with visitors Bartóky utca 7. Tel (27) 62 01 61. Open
dominated by its spectacular Mar–Oct: 9am–6pm Tue–Sun; Nov–Feb:
ruined Citadel. Built in the 13th 10am–4pm Tue–Sun. & 8
century by King Béla IV, this was Hungarian and German. 7
once one of the finest royal ∑ szonyimuzeum.hu
palaces in Hungary. The massive Zebegény’s Roman Catholic church, built in
outer walls are still intact, and Secessionist style 9 Nagybörzsöny
offer the visitor superb views. 8 Zebegény & Duna-Ipoly
Halfway down the hill, in the National Park
Salamon Tower, is the Mátyás 30 km (19 miles) east of Vác. Road
Museum, a collection of items Map C3. * 1,200. £ from Budapest. 24 km (15 miles) north of Visegrád.
excavated from the ruins of 4 from Budapest. Road Map C2/3. @ from Szob
the Royal Palace. Built by King (to Nagybörzsöny). ∑s dinpi.hu
Sigismund in the 14th century, Famous for fine views of the
it was renovated a century later, Danube Bend, the tiny village of Home to the fine 14th-century
in magnificent Renais sance style, Zebegény also boasts one stone Romanesque Church of
by Mátyás Corvinus (see p41). It of Hun gary’s few Catholic St Stephen, a working mid-
fell derelict in the 16th century churches in Seces sion 19th-century water mill
after the Turkish invasion and style. Designed by (open to the public) and
was then buried in a mudslide. Károly Kós, Dénes a mining museum,
The ruins were not rediscovered Györgyi and Béla Nagybörzsöny is best
until 1934, when excavations Jánszky and built from known as the gateway
took place. Now largely recon- 1910 to 1914, its plain to the Duna-Ipoly
structed and whitewashed, façade has Neo- National Park, one
several rooms recreate life in Romanesque traits. It of the largest in
the Renais sance Palace. is its sharply angled the country. The
and tiered, Christmas- Buda Hill caves
+ Citadel tree-like roof that sets the and the Sas-hegy
Tel (26) 39 81 01. Open Mar–Oct: church apart, while the tall nature trail outside
9am–5pm daily; May–Sep: 9am–6pm adjoining spire adds Budapest are also
daily; Oct–Nov: 9am–4pm daily; Dec– elegance. Inside, the Signpost in Duna-Ipoly within its borders.
Feb: 10am–4pm Fri–Sun. colourful frescoes of St National Park The park is home
E Mátyás Museum Constantine are the last to more than 70
Salamon-torony utca. Tel (26) 59 major works by the master protected plants and more than
70 10. Open May–Oct: 9am–5pm painter Kriesch Aladár Körösfői half of Hungary’s native bird
Wed–Sun. & (1863–1920). species (including black and
P Royal Palace Behind the church is the István white-backed woodpeckers).
Fő utca 23. Tel (26) 59 70 10. Szőnyi Memorial Museum. One A narrow-gauge railway
Open Mar–Oct: 9am–5pm; Nov–Feb: of the most prominent Hungarian runs at week ends from
10am–4pm. & 8 Expres sionist painters, Szőnyi Nagybörzsöny to Nagyirtás
across the Börzsöny Hills, from
where well-marked hiking trails
fan out across the park. There is
also a long trail from Nagy bör-
zsöny itself, leading up to Nagy
Hideg Hegy peak, which offers
views across to Slovakia.
A second narrow-gauge
railway, from Kismaros to
Királyrét, opens up the
southern part of the park.
There are hiking trails from
Királyrét across the hills, and
on to Nógrád, where there
The spectacular ruins of the citadel, towering over Visegrád is a spectacular ruined castle.




144-145_EW_Hungary.indd 145 18/09/17 3:40 pm

146  HUNGAR Y REGION B Y REGION ESZTERGOM  147

0 Esztergom rounded façade and high nave. processions. It is thought not VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
The twin spires were added much to contain any human remains:
St István, Hungary’s first king, was baptized in Eszter gom, later, in the middle of the 19th its purpose has always been Practical Information
and crowned here on Christmas Day in the year 1000. Almost century. The Baroque interior was symbolic. The room devoted to Road Map C3. * 28,357.
_ Castle Theatre (Jul–Aug);
completely destroyed by the Mongol invasion 250 years unfortunately lost during World altar pieces, some dating back History Days Festival (late
later, the town was gradually rebuilt during the 18th and War II, and has yet to be replaced. to the 14th century, is stunning Aug–early Sep).
19th centuries. Esztergom today is still Hungary’s most sacred The statue in front of the church in its colour and historical import. Transport
city, the seat of the Archbishop of Hungary. Although it is was raised in 1740 by the Tamás Koloszvári’s Ascension is £ Bem József tér. @ Simor
considered the most significant
people of Esztergom, grateful
János utca. 4 Nagy-Duna sétány
dominated by the huge Basilica (see pp148–9), Esztergom has for having survived an outbreak medieval painting in Hungary. (summer only).
much to offer besides its mighty cathedral, including one of of the plague. A bridge behind Besides the picture gallery,
Hungary’s oldest castles, the picturesque and eclectic district the church leads to Prímás there are equally stunning
of Víziváros (Watertown), the fascinating Danube Museum Sziget, an island of gardens sculpture and icon galleries. previous home on the Danube.
and Hungary’s finest collection of ecclesiastical art. and parks in the Danube, The museum houses all sorts
from where another bridge E Bálint Balassa Museum The Danube Museum, devoted to life of hydraulic equipment from
crosses the river into Slovakia. MNM Balassa Bálint Múzeum with the river the past century, as well as
R Esztergom Basilica can be visited, but the study of Mindszenty tér 5. Tel (33) 50 01 75. exhibits devoted to damming
See pp148–9. Matyas’s tutor is currently closed Open Mar–Oct: 10am–6pm Tue–Sun; E Danube Museum and the Danube and navigation,
due to construction work, with Nov–Feb: 10am–4pm Tue–Sun. Lower Esztergom water supply and purification.
+ Royal Palace and Castle no date set for re-opening. & 8 Duna Múzeum & Belváros There is a collection of
Museum To the south and north are Situated opposite the Vízi város Kölcsey utca 2. Tel (33) 50 02 50. engineering tools, as well as a
Vár & Vármúzeum well- preserved remains of the Parish Church, the Bálint Balassa Open Feb, Nov & Dec: 10am–4pm history of water management
Szent István tér 1. Tel (33) 41 59 86. ram parts and steps back into Museum is named after a Wed–Mon; Mar–Oct: 9am–5pm since Roman times. Children
Open Apr–Oct: 10am–6pm Tue–Sun; the town. The Esztergom Castle Renaissance poet who died in Wed–Mon. Closed Tue and Jan. will enjoy the many hands-on
Nov–Mar: 10am–4pm Tue–Sun. _ Theatre stages plays in summer, 1594 while fighting the Turks. 8 7 displays, which enable them
& 8 and the castle also hosts the The over 120-year-old museum The role of the Danube in the to get very wet indeed.
Opposite Esztergom Basilica are History Days festival in September. underwent a major refurbish- history and development of A 5-minute walk south
the partly reconstructed remains ment in 2014 and exhibits Esztergom is given due impor- along Vörösmary utca leads
of the Royal Palace, one of the P Víziváros now showcase archaeological tance in this outstanding to Széchenyi tér, centre of the
oldest buildings in Hungary. Berényi utca artifacts, weapons from the museum close to the city Lower Town and surrounded
The southern walls date back Víziváros (Watertown) is a 18th to the 20th centuries, ship centre. The building itself is a on all sides by a mixture of
to the 10th century. From 1256 district of mainly Baroque models, antique furniture and gem. It was built in the 18th Baroque and Neo-Classical
onwards it was the palace of buildings, narrow streets, a rich book collection. Also century in Baroque style and houses, many of which are now
Esztergom’s archbishops, single-storey houses and displayed are 18th-century was a crumbling wreck until cafés. Its focal point is the town
and improve ment was tiny well-kept gardens. The tableware and other interesting renovated in 1973, when the hall, an immaculately preserved
continuous right up area was developed ethnographic items. museum moved here from its Rococo building from 1729.
until the Turkish during the regener- The Lord’s Coffin of Garamszent benedek,
invasion, when it ation of Esztergom in the Christian Museum
was sacked. Much after the with- Esztergom City Centre
of the palace drawal of the E Christian Museum 1 Basilica pp148–9 SZENTGYÖRGYMEZŐ
remained, however, Turks in the early Keresztény Múzeum 2 Royal Palace and Castle St. Adalbert
and is open today as Statue of Queen Elizabeth 18th century. Mindszenty tér 2. Tel (33) 41 38 80. Museum Center ISKOLA UTCA
the Castle Museum. in Viziváros Víziváros Parish Open Mar–Nov: 10am–5pm Wed–Sun. 3 Víziváros SZENT
ISTVÁN
The 12th century Church, consecrated Closed Dec–Feb. & 8 4 Christian Museum Basilica Dark TÉR
Gate
Royal Chapel, featuring an by Jesuits in 1728, is a perfect The Roman Catholic Primate of 5 Bálint Balassa Museum BÁNOM
original rose window and 13th exam ple of the Baroque All Hungary, János Simor, resided 6 Danube Museum and B ER É N Y I UTCA
century portraits of the Apostles, architecture of the time with its in this grand Neo-Renaissance Danube Royal Palace
and Castle Museum
palace after it was completed in Lower Esztergom Rondella BA SA UTCA
1882, and immediately opened VÍZIVÁROS MAJER ISTVÁN
the palace and its vast collection UTCA
of paintings, including works by Christian Bálint Balassa B AT T HYÁ NY U TCA SZENT VA SVÁR I PAL UT CA
Museum
early Italian Renaissance artists Víziváros Museum TAMÁS-HEGY
TERE
Parish
Migazzi and Bertinelli, to the Church MÍNDSZENTY PÁ Z MÁ NY UTCA Chapel
public. The building has been a
dedicated museum since 1924, Kossuth TÖ R Ö K UT C A
híd
and its collection of church art, Kis-Duna ATTÍLA BAJCSY-ZSILINSZKY UTCA
TÉR
bolstered by many subsequent
purchases, is now the finest Mária Outdoor
in Hungary. Valéria NAGY DUNA SÉTÁNY Pool IMAHÁZ UTCA
híd
The splendid, wheeled Lord’s Customs KIS-DUNA SÉTÁNY and Lower Estergom
Danube Museum
Coffin of Garamszentbenedek House TÁ NC SIC S MIH ALY U T C A
UTCA
(now in Slovakia), dating from 0 metres 200 Bottyan VÖRÖSMARTY
1480, is decorated with carved 0 yards 200 híd LŐ R I NC Z U TCA Train Station
1.2 km (0.7 miles)
The domed Basilica, iconic building of Esztergom figures and is still used in Easter RÁKÓCZI Bus Station
TÉR 1 km (0.6 miles)
For hotels and restaurants see pp264–269 and pp276–285 For keys to map symbols see back flap
146-147_EW_Hungary.indd 146 18/09/17 3:40 pm 146-147_EW_Hungary.indd 147 18/09/17 3:40 pm

ESZTERGOM  147


processions. It is thought not VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
to contain any human remains: Practical Information
its purpose has always been Road Map C3. * 28,357.
symbolic. The room devoted to _ Castle Theatre (Jul–Aug);
altar pieces, some dating back History Days Festival (late
to the 14th century, is stunning Aug–early Sep).
in its colour and historical import. Transport
Tamás Koloszvári’s Ascension is £ Bem József tér. @ Simor
considered the most significant János utca. 4 Nagy-Duna sétány
medieval painting in Hungary. (summer only).
Besides the picture gallery,
there are equally stunning
sculpture and icon galleries. previous home on the Danube.
The museum houses all sorts
E Bálint Balassa Museum The Danube Museum, devoted to life of hydraulic equipment from
MNM Balassa Bálint Múzeum with the river the past century, as well as
Mindszenty tér 5. Tel (33) 50 01 75. exhibits devoted to damming
Open Mar–Oct: 10am–6pm Tue–Sun; E Danube Museum and the Danube and navigation,
Nov–Feb: 10am–4pm Tue–Sun. Lower Esztergom water supply and purification.
& 8 Duna Múzeum & Belváros There is a collection of
Situated opposite the Vízi város Kölcsey utca 2. Tel (33) 50 02 50. engineering tools, as well as a
Parish Church, the Bálint Balassa Open Feb, Nov & Dec: 10am–4pm history of water management
Museum is named after a Wed–Mon; Mar–Oct: 9am–5pm since Roman times. Children
Renaissance poet who died in Wed–Mon. Closed Tue and Jan. will enjoy the many hands-on
1594 while fighting the Turks. 8 7 displays, which enable them
The over 120-year-old museum The role of the Danube in the to get very wet indeed.
underwent a major refurbish- history and development of A 5-minute walk south
ment in 2014 and exhibits Esztergom is given due impor- along Vörösmary utca leads
now showcase archaeological tance in this outstanding to Széchenyi tér, centre of the
artifacts, weapons from the museum close to the city Lower Town and surrounded
18th to the 20th centuries, ship centre. The building itself is a on all sides by a mixture of
models, antique furniture and gem. It was built in the 18th Baroque and Neo-Classical
a rich book collection. Also century in Baroque style and houses, many of which are now
displayed are 18th-century was a crumbling wreck until cafés. Its focal point is the town
tableware and other interesting renovated in 1973, when the hall, an immaculately preserved
ethnographic items. museum moved here from its Rococo building from 1729.

Esztergom City Centre
1 Basilica pp148–9 SZENTGYÖRGYMEZŐ
2 Royal Palace and Castle St. Adalbert
Center
Museum ISKOLA UTCA
SZENT
3 Víziváros Dark ISTVÁN
4 Christian Museum Basilica Gate TÉR BÁNOM
5 Bálint Balassa Museum
6 Danube Museum and B ER É N Y I UTCA Royal Palace
and Castle Museum
Lower Esztergom Danube Rondella BA SA UTCA
VÍZIVÁROS UTCA
Christian
MAJER ISTVÁN
Museum Bálint Balassa B AT T HYÁ NY U TCA SZENT VA SVÁR I PAL UT CA
Víziváros Museum TAMÁS-HEGY
Parish MÍNDSZENTY PÁ Z MÁ NY UTCA
Church TERE Chapel
Kossuth TÖ R Ö K UT C A
híd
ATTÍLA
TÉR
Kis-Duna BAJCSY-ZSILINSZKY UTCA
Mária
Valéria Outdoor IMAHÁZ UTCA
híd NAGY DUNA SÉTÁNY Pool
Danube Museum
Customs KIS-DUNA SÉTÁNY and Lower Estergom
House TÁ NC SIC S MIH ALY U T C A
UTCA
0 metres 200 VÖRÖSMARTY
Bottyan
1.2 km (0.7 miles)
0 yards 200 híd LŐ R I NC Z U TCA Train Station
Bus Station
RÁKÓCZI 1 km (0.6 miles)
TÉR
For keys to map symbols see back flap
146-147_EW_Hungary.indd 147 18/09/17 3:40 pm

148  HUNGAR Y REGION B Y REGION ESZTERGOM  149


Esztergom Basilica . Dome/Cupola VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
A steep flight of
Rising high above the Danube, its bright steps leads up to Practical Information
the dome’s viewing
blue cupola visible from afar, the cathedral at platform, from Szent István tér 1. Road Map C3.
Esztergom has been a symbol of Hungary for where there are Tel (33) 40 23 54. Open Cathedral:
Mar: 8am–5pm daily; Apr: to 6pm;
a millennium, ever since St István was crowned superb views over May–Aug: to 7pm; Sep & Oct: to
here on Christmas Day 1000. Hungary’s largest Eszter gom and the 6pm; Nov & Dec: to 4pm. Cupola
Danu be Bend – and
cathedral, the present structure, dating from Stúrovo in Slovakia on & Bell Tower: Mar: 9am–5pm daily;
the 19th century, was built over a 47-year the northern bank. Apr: to 6pm; May–Aug: to 7pm;
Sep & Oct: to 6pm; Nov & Dec: to
period from 1822 to 1869. It replaced the much 4pm. Treasury: Mar–Oct: 9am–
smaller 12th-century St Adalbert’s Cathedral, Treasury 4:30pm daily; Nov & Dec: 11am–
which was destroyed by the Turks as they Hungary’s most valuable 3:30pm Tue–Fri, 10am–3:30pm
collection of liturgical and
retreated in the 18th century. royal art, dating back to the Sat & Sun. Crypt: Mar–Oct: 9am–
4:30pm; Nov & Dec: 10am–2:30pm
early Árpád dynasty, is kept daily. & 8 7 ^ Treasury,
here, as well as a shrine Crypt. 0 _ Jun–Aug.
with St István’s skull.
Transport
£ @ 4








Basilica
Esztergom Basilica is distinguished by its
outer simplicity and inner beauty. A grand
but plain façade gives way to priceless
treasures and superbly rich decoration.

. Copy of Titian’s
Assumption of the Virgin
(1853–4)
Behind the altar, this is the
largest single-canvas painting
in the world. The original
(1516–18) hangs in Venice’s
Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari.



. Bakócz Chapel
KEY
The red-marble Bakócz chapel
1 Pillars supporting the Dome opens to the basilica’s nave.
Built in Florentine Renaissance
2 The North Tower is one of two style, it is named after Cardinal
identical basilica bell towers which Tamás Bakócz (c.1442–1521),
rise to 71.5 m (235 ft), matching who is laid to rest here.
exactly the height of the main
dome’s interior. The unusual,
octagonal form of their bases is Tomb of Cardinal Mindszenty Primates of All Hungary
thought to be unique in Hungary. in the Crypt Entrance Main entrance Former archbishops commemorated in
3 Corinthian Columns – 22 Cardinal József Mindszenty was statuary include the 15th-century Dénes
in total – give the basilica’s a pillar of resistance to both the Szécsi (left) and the 19th- century János
entrance an unmistakable Neo- Nazi and Communist regimes. He Simor, whose vast, private Christian art
Classical appearance. died in exile in 1975, and his body collection formed the basis of the
was laid to rest here in 1991. Esztergom Christian Museum (see pp146-7.
For hotels and restaurants see pp264–269 and pp276–285


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