(DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Brittany

a hist or y of brit t an y  49













Louis XII, who succeeded Charles VIII, married Anne
according to an agreement made at the time of her
marriage to Charles.

Charles VIII
As patroness of the arts and a woman
of the Renaissance, Anne supported artists
and writers. Here, the Dominican friar
Antoine Dufour presents to her his Lives
of Illustrious Women.





















Claude of Brittany, Anne’s daughter,
was born in 1499 and married François of
Angoulême, the future François I. As king,
he acquired through Claude the duchy of
Brittany. Their son became François III,
Duke of Brittany.







This gold reliquary contains
the heart of Anne of Brittany.
According to her last wish,
Anne’s heart was brought from
Blois to her native land, “the
place that she loved more than
any other in the world, so that it
Burial of Anne of Brittany took might be interred there”. It was
place at the Château de Blois, on placed in the tomb that she had
9 January 1514. She was 37 years old. built for her parents in Nantes.




BT_48-49-AT996-HISTS.indd 49 17/12/14 4:49 pm

50  INTRODUCING BRIT T AN Y


delegates agreed with the king the level
of taxation to be levied on the province.
Brittany paid lower taxes than the rest of the
kingdom and was exempt from the salt tax.
Parliament, restored in 1554, was housed
in a suitably imposing building in Rennes
dating from 1618–55 (see pp66–7).
Parliament was the supreme court of
Breton law and was also a court in which
royal decrees became statute. Brittany was
thus able to retain its own legal system.
In the 16th century, Brittany was largely
unaffected by the Wars of Religion fought
between Catholics and Protestants. Strongly
Catholic, it contained only a small number of
Calvinists. However, under Henri IV, king of
France and governor of Brittany, was the
ambitious Philippe-Emmanuel de Lorraine,
Map of Brittany in 1595, at the time of the wars of the
Holy League Duke of Mercœur. One of the mainstays of
the Holy League – a group of Catholic
Brittany Joins France extremists – he attempted to harness the
Brittany’s integration into the kingdom of loyalty of Bretons to Rome so as to draw
France made no fundamental difference to them into a war against the heretical king,
the lives of Bretons. The Treaty of Union of and lured them with thoughts of inde-
1532 ensured that their “rights, freedoms pendence. After ten years of conflict, from
and privileges” would be respected. The 1589 to 1598, Mercœur was forced to
province was ruled on behalf of the withdraw, and, in Nantes, Henri IV
king by a governor, who usually signed the Edict of Nantes,
had connections with the ending the Wars of Religion.
great Breton families. The
interests of the population Resistance to
were, in principle, defended the Monarchy
by the States of Brittany, an In the 17th century, royal
assembly that was, how ever, power became absolute,
unrepresentative, since the and the monarchy in France
rural population had no developed centralized rule.
delegate. The nobility and Local auto nomy was curtailed
high clergy played the most François d’Argouges, who became first and taxes rose. New taxes
prominent role. Every year, the Speaker of the Breton parliament, in 1669 on tobacco and on



1532 Treaty of Union 1554 Creation 1589–1598 Wars
signed by Brittany of the Breton of Religion Parish close at
and France parliament La Martyre
1530 1550 1570 1590 1610 1630 1650
1534–1542
Jacques Cartier 1598 Edict c. 1600–1650 Parish closes
explores Canada of Nantes are built
Jacques Cartier





050-053_EW_Brittany.indd 50 11/3/16 1:02 PM

A HIST OR Y OF BRIT T AN Y  51


printed paper used for legal documents
caused a revolt in Lower Brittany in
1675. The harsh repression that followed
was described by Madame de Sévigné
(see p73).
In 1689, so that his decisions might be
more effectively implemented, Louis XIV
placed the province under the control of
an intendant, whose remit was to impose
law and order and collect taxes. These
mea sures caused a resurgence of Breton
nationalism, most strongly among the
petty nobility, that continued until the Henri IV on a military campaign against partisans of the Holy
end of the Ancien Régime. League, a group of Catholic extremists, in Brittany in 1598
Much more troublesome for royal rule
was legal opposition mounted against the commander-in-chief of Brittany. The “Breton
intendant and the governor led by the question” enflamed the province and did
States of Brittany and the Breton not die down until the death of Louis XV,
parliament. While the States claimed to in 1774.
defend Breton autonomy, they in fact
supported the interests of the nobility. Brittany’s Thriving Ports
From 1759 to 1770, tensions ran high, Under the Ancien Régime, Brittany
reaching a climax in the conflict between experienced vigorous economic growth.
Louis-René de Caradeuc de La Chalotais, Port activity prospered as a result both of
the Breton parliament’s ambitious and Brittany’s integration with France and of the
popular procurator-general, and the Duke opening of sea routes across the Atlantic.
of Aiguillon, the authoritarian and efficient Brittany played its part in voyages of
discovery with the expedition to Canada
undertaken by Jacques Cartier, of St-Malo,
(1534–42). The three busiest French
seaports were St-Malo, Nantes and Lorient,
built in 1666 as a base for the French East
India Company. Conflict between France
and England interfered with economic
activity on the coasts, as the English
launched attacks on St-Malo, Belle-Île and
St-Cast. Naval warfare also led to Colbert’s
building an arsenal at Brest (c. 1680), while
St-Malo, France’s major port at the end of the 17th century,
used for trade and for fitting out the ships of privateers Vauban increased coastal defences.

1675 Revolt against
taxes on tobacco and 1711 Rio de René 1758 The Duke of Aiguillon
printed paper; the Janeiro taken by Duguay- repulses an attempted English
Bonnets Rouges Duguay-Trouin Trouin invasion at St-Cast
1650 1670 1690 1710 1730 1750 1770
1689 The
administration of 1693 The English 1720 Pontcallec’s 1764–74 The Breton Question
Brittany is set up attack St-Malo conspiracy (La Chalotais and the
Duke d’Aiguillon)






050-053_EW_Brittany.indd 51 11/3/16 1:02 PM

52  INTRODUCING BRIT T AN Y

The Chouans and the Revolution “Les blancs” had been dealt a blow. The army
During the French Revolution, Brittany was of Catholics and royalists was defeated at
divided between “les bleus”, who were in Savenay in 1793; attempts by émigré nobles
favour of new ideas, and “les blancs”, to land in Brittany, with British aid, were
supporters of the Ancien Régime. “Les bleus” quashed. At Quiberon, in June 1795, 6,000
consisted of the liberal bourgeoisie and of of them were taken prisoner by Hoche’s
country-dwellers of those republican army and 750 executed.
cantons of Lower Brittany Stability was not restored until the advent
that were op posed to of Napoleon Bonaparte, who reconciled
the clergy and nobility; “les Church and State, appointed prefects, and
blancs”, consisting mostly ensured military control by building roads
of nobility and unruly and establishing gar rison towns, such as
clergy, predominated Napoléonville in Pontivy. Because of the
in southern and Napoleonic Wars, during which the British
eastern Brittany. ruled the seas, Brittany’s fortunes were in
Jean Cottereau, known as In 1792, a few decline, despite the exploits of privateers
Jean Chouan
aristocrats led by such as Robert Surcouf of St-Malo.
La Rouërie hatched an unsuccessful
counter-revolutionary plot, but in 1793, The 19th Century
when the National Convention ordered During the 19th century and until the
that 300,000 men should be levied to fight 1950s, Brittany, isolated from the centres
in the war, the Loire-Atlantique, Morbihan of the industrial revolution, became a rural
and Ille- et-Vilaine rebelled. The Chouans, backwater, although it supported a thriving
led by Cadoudal, Guillemot, Boishardy and canning industry. Fishing off Iceland and
Jean Chouan, fought a guerrilla war in the Newfoundland was another key activity.
countryside. The Republicans responded Awareness of Brittany’s Celtic heritage
by launching the Terror: in Nantes, 10,000 gathered strength as poets, ethnologists and
people were beheaded or drowned. folklorists documented and recorded Breton













Mass drownings in the Loire at Nantes, ordered by Jean-Baptiste Carrier during the French Revolution


1865 The 1886 1898
1789 Riots Paris-Brest Paul Gauguin The URB is
in Rennes 1793–1802 railway is arrives in founded
Chouan uprising Nantes is attacked by the Vendéens completed Pont-Aven
1780 1800 1820 1840 1860 1880 1900
1792 1795 The landing of 1839 La 1848 F. de Lamennais 1896 La
La Rouërie’s royalist émigrés in Villemarqué is elected people’s Borderie starts
plot Quiberon ends in publishes Barzaz delegate at the his History of
failure Breiz Constituent Assembly Brittany
De Lamennais




050-053_EW_Brittany.indd 52 11/3/16 1:02 PM

A HIST OR Y OF BRIT T AN Y  53


traditions and ancient tales. ports, including St-Nazaire, Lorient,
The Breton language, strongly Brest and St-Malo, were razed by
discouraged in undenominational fighting during the Liberation.
schools during the Third Republic
(1870–1940), found ardent Brittany in the Modern World
supporters among the clergy, Brittany made a remarkable recovery
while regional history became after World War II. Since 1950, the
the object of renewed interest, Comité d’Étude et de Liaison des
culminating in La Borderie’s Intérêts Bretons has attracted
monumental History of Brittany. investment and such decentralized
Strong cultural regionalism operations as that of PSA in Rennes
asserted itself around 1900, with and telecommunications in Lannion.
the Union Régionaliste Bretonne, Toll-free highways, high-speed train
followed by the formation of the services and the installation of
Parti National Breton, which was airports have ended Brittany’s
supported by the occupying isolation. Cross-channel links and
Germans in 1940–44. Poster for the inauguration a strong hotel industry make it
of the Paris-Brest railway
In the 19th century, the second-most popular tourist
continuing high birth rates and the destination in France.
absence of industry caused large-scale Brittany is also France’s foremost producer
rural emigration to Paris, where a vigorous of fruit and vegetables, and a leading
Breton community became established. producer of pigs and chickens. Such
Bretons became prominent on the success has its price: farmers are crippled
national stage. Among them were by the cost of modern equipment and soil
Chateaubriand, politician and writer of the is overloaded with nitrate. The region’s
Romantic age; René Pléven, a minister problems are now being addressed: the
during the Fourth Republic; Félicité de need to preserve places of historic interest
Lamennais, a founder of social Catholicism; and natural beauty is seen as a priority, as is
and the religious sceptic Ernest Renan. the importance of keeping alive Brittany’s
With the arrival of the railway in the mid- links with other Celtic regions in Europe.
19th century, Brittany began to attract
writers and artists, drawn by the wild
beauty of its countryside and the exotic
nature of its Celtic traditions.
Brittany suffered greatly during the two
world wars: in 1914–18, the proportion of
Breton soldiers killed was twice the national
average. In 1940–45, the region was
occupied by Nazi Germany, and several Naval dockyards at St-Nazaire, where cruise liners are now built


1925 Morvan 2003 The RMS Queen Mary
1898 Marchal designs 1944 End of the 1989 2, the world’s largest
The URB is the Gwenn-ha-du, German occupa tion. 1978 Oil spill High-speed- ocean liner, built in
founded the Breton flag Many ports are from the train link St-Nazaire shipyards
destroyed Amoco Cadiz to Rennes
1880 1900 1920 1940 1960 1980 2000 2020
1950 2017 New LGV fast
1932 1992 The terms of the train line due to
The PNB is The CELIB Maastricht Treaty con- be finished
founded is founded cerning the European
Union are supported by 60 2000 The aircraft carrier
Breton flag per cent of Bretons Charles de Gaulle is launched
at Brest naval arsenal



050-053_EW_Brittany.indd 53 11/3/16 1:02 PM

054-055_EW_Brittany.indd 54 11/3/16 12:41 PM

BRITTANY

REGION BY


REGION





Brittany at a Glance 56–57

Ille-et-Vilaine 58–91
Côtes d’Armor 92–117
Northern Finistère 118–147
Southern Finistère 148–175
Morbihan 176–201

Loire-Atlantique 202–217










































054-055_EW_Brittany.indd 55 11/3/16 12:41 PM

56  BRIT T AN Y REGION B Y REGION

Brittany at a Glance

Brittany’s beaches, like those on the Côte
d’Émeraude and Côte de Granit Rose, the Golfe
du Morbihan and Belle-Île, are very popular with
holiday-makers. Brittany is also a land of history,
with a rich heritage of ancient monuments. The
timber-framed houses in Vannes and Dinan conjure
up the Middle Ages, while in Nantes and St-Malo Château de Kerouzéré is one of
the town houses of shipowners reflect the fortunes many fortified castles in the region
that were made in the 17th and 18th centuries. (see p128).
Coastal forts such as that in St-Malo and castles in
the Breton marches have fiercely defended Brittany
from attack from land and sea Perros-Guirec
throughout the centuries. Lannion
Roscoff
Île
d’Ouessant St-Malo
Morlaix Dinard
Mont-
NORTHERN Guingamp St-Michel
Brest FINISTÈRE St-Brieuc
(See pp118–147)
Dinan
CÔTES D’ARMOR
(See pp92–117)
Fougères
Châteaulin
SOUTHERN Loudéac ILLE-ET-VILAINE
FINISTÈRE (See pp58–91)
(See pp148–175)
Quimper Pontivy Rennes
Concarneau Ploërmel
MORBIHAN
(See pp176–201)
Lorient
Île de Groix Vannes Châteaubriant
At lantic
Logis de Rohan, a tower Ocean
in Quimper, houses the
Musée Départemental Breton
(see p166). LOIRE-ATLANTIQUE
(See pp202–217)
Belle-Île
Guérande
St-Nazaire
Nantes
Pornic





0 kilometres 20
Porte Poterne in Vannes, not far from the Château de 0 miles 20
l’Hermine, leads through to pleasant gardens beneath
the city walls (see pp192–3).
Dinan, on the banks of the Rance, once a busy port for the linen trade



056-057_EW_Brittany.indd 56 11/3/16 12:41 PM

BRIT T AN Y A T A GLANCE  57

















The timber-framed houses The famous Mont-St-Michel is one of the
Perros-Guirec in St-Brieuc (see pp108–9) most remarkable sights on the coast of
Lannion surround the city’s Brittany (see pp76–81).
Roscoff impressive cathedral.
Île
d’Ouessant St-Malo
Morlaix Dinard
Mont-
NORTHERN Guingamp St-Michel
Brest FINISTÈRE St-Brieuc
(See pp118–147)
Dinan
CÔTES D’ARMOR
(See pp92–117)
Fougères
Châteaulin
SOUTHERN Loudéac ILLE-ET-VILAINE
FINISTÈRE (See pp58–91)
(See pp148–175)
Quimper Pontivy Rennes
Concarneau Ploërmel
MORBIHAN
(See pp176–201)
Lorient Cathédrale St-Pierre
in Rennes (see pp62–3)
Île de Groix Vannes Châteaubriant has a magnificent 19th-
century interior.
At lantic
Ocean

LOIRE-ATLANTIQUE
(See pp202–217)
Belle-Île
Guérande
St-Nazaire
Nantes
Pornic







Théâtre de Nantes is notable for its
Neo-Classical interior (see pp210–11).




056-057_EW_Brittany.indd 57 11/3/16 12:41 PM

058-059_EW_Brittany.indd 58 11/3/16 1:02 PM

BRIT T AN Y REGION B Y REGION  59

ILLE-ET-VILAINE



In the north, the Côte d’Émeraude and Mont-St-Michel face
onto the English Channel. Further south, at the confluence
of the Ille and the Vilaine rivers, lies Rennes, the regional
capital, which is famous for its elegant parliament building.
To the east, the proud fortresses of the Breton marches, which once
protected the duchy of Brittany, face neighbouring Normandy.

The beaches of the Côte d’Émeraude are centuries. In the towns, a prosperous
lined by a succession of resorts. But well and influential middle class developed;
before this part of Brittany was discovered the medieval houses in Vitré and Dol, as
by tourists, Pierre-Auguste Renoir, Paul well as the town houses in Rennes, are
Signac and other artists had already been proof of this opulence. As acts of piety,
struck by its beauty when they came to trades men’s guilds commissioned the
paint in St-Briac. artists of Laval to create rich altarpieces.
Whether they are drawn to the From Celtic mythology to French
megalithic Roche-aux-Fées or to the Romanticism, the département of the
fortified castle in Fougères, lovers of Ille-et-Vilaine also has two emblems of
ancient monuments will be spoiled for Breton literary heritage: one is the the
choice. On the coast, Mont-St-Michel Forêt de Paimpont, the legendary Forêt
stands as a jewel of Gothic reli gious de Brocéliande where Merlin fell under
architecture, while the citadel in St-Malo the spell of the fairy Vivian; the other is
encloses within its ramparts several luxury the lugubrious Château de Combourg,
hotels. Inland, noble men built a multitude haunted by the ghost of the 19th-century
of manor houses, symbols of social writer and statesman the Vicomte
standing, during the 16th and 17th de Chateaubriand.



























Slender stone columns that form the cloisters of Mont-St-Michel Abbey
View of the waterfront town of Cancale, the oyster capital of Brittany



058-059_EW_Brittany.indd 59 11/3/16 1:02 PM

60  BRIT T AN Y REGION B Y REGION

Exploring the Ille-et-Vilaine

This département, which covers an area of 6,758 sq km
(2,608 sq miles), is named after the two rivers that flow SENTIER DES POINTE
DOUANIERS
through it: the Ille and the Vilaine. In the north, a hilly DU GROUIN
area culminating in Mont-Dol overlooks the coast. Rothéneuf CANCALE
LE MONT-
East of Cancale, the marshlands of Dol have DINARD ST-MICHEL
ST-MALO
been converted into polders, sunken areas ST-LUNAIRE RANCE BAIE DU MONT-
ST-MICHEL
of land reclaimed from the sea. The ST-BRIAC VALLEY Le Vivier-
sur-Mer
coastline then descends to trace a bay out Châteauneuf d’Ille Cherrueix
of which rises Mont-St-Michel. From the et Vilaine MONT-DOL Pontorson Caen
Pointe du Grouin, the Côte d’Émeraude (Emerald DOL-DE-BRETAGNE
Coast) is marked by alternating jagged cliffs and Dinan MENHIR DU Caen
soft sandy beaches. Rennes, in the centre of the CHAMP-DOLENT
département, is the administrative capital. On the Château de Landal Antrain Louvigné-
du-Désert
eastern border of the Ille-et-Vilaine, the fortresses Dinan
of Fougères and Vitré face neighbouring Normandy. COMBOURG Le Châtellier
Occupying a corner of the Morbihan and of the Château de la Saint-Brice-
en-Coglès
Bourbansais
Ille-et-Vilaine, the Forêt de Paimpont is a vestige
of Argoat, the woodland that once covered the FOUGÈRES
whole of inland Brittany. TINTÉNIAC Sens-de-
St-Brieuc BÉCHEREL Bretagne
HÉDÉ Canal d’Ille Couesnon Mayenne
Sights at a Glance Château de Les Iffs Saint-Aubin-
Caradeuc
1 Rennes pp62–7 d'Aubigné Saint-Aubin-
du-Cormier
2 Paimpont ILLE-ET - VILAINE
3 Forêt de Paimpont Loudéac Montauban-de-
Bretagne
4 Redon Saint-Méen- Liffré
5 Langon le-Grand
6 Grand-Fougeray
7 La Guerche-de-Bretagne Cesson-Sévigné Champeaux VITRÉ CHÂTEAU DES
8 Vitré Montfort-sur-Meu RENNES Châteaubourg ROCHERS-SÉVIGNÉ
9 Château des Rochers-Sévigné Villaine
0 Fougères Comper Mordelles Argentré- Laval
q Hédé FORÊT DE PAIMPONT Châteaugiron du-Plessis
w Bécherel Châtillon-
e Tinténiac PAIMPONT sur-Seiche
r Combourg Tréhorenteuc Forges-de- Plélan-le-Grand Guichen
t Dol-de-Bretagne Paimpont Coëtquidan Janzé Seiche
y Menhir du Champ-Dolent La Roche- LA GUERCHE-
u Mont-Dol Ploërmel aux-Fées DE-BRETAGNE
i Baie du Mont-St-Michel Guer Retiers
o Mont-St-Michel pp78–81
a Cancale Lohéac Bain-de-
s Pointe du Grouin Bretagne Semnon Martigné-
d St-Malo pp84–9 Ferchaud Étang de la
Forge
f Rance Valley Pipriac Vilaine
g Dinard
h St-Lunaire Landes de St Just GRAND- Châteaubriant
j St-Briac Coujoux FOUGERAY
LANGON
Hike
p Sentier des Douaniers
Nantes
REDON
0 kilometres 20 St Nazaire
0 miles 20
For hotels and restaurants see pp224–5 and pp234–5


060-061_EW_Brittany.indd 60 11/3/16 12:41 PM

ILLE-E T-VILAINE  61





SENTIER DES
DOUANIERS POINTE
DU GROUIN
Rothéneuf
CANCALE
DINARD ST-MALO BAIE DU MONT- LE MONT-
ST-MICHEL
ST-LUNAIRE RANCE ST-MICHEL
ST-BRIAC VALLEY Le Vivier-
sur-Mer
Cherrueix
Châteauneuf d’Ille MONT-DOL
et Vilaine Caen
DOL-DE-BRETAGNE Pontorson
Agricultural land near Bain-de-Bretagne
MENHIR DU Caen
Dinan CHAMP-DOLENT
Getting Around
Château de Landal Antrain Louvigné-
du-Désert
Dinan Rennes is linked to Paris by rail (1 hour
Le Châtellier 30 minutes) and by the A11 motorway to
COMBOURG Saint-Brice- Le Mans, then the A81 to Laval, then the
Château de la en-Coglès
Bourbansais N157-E50. Two major roads – the N137 and
N24 – run through the Ille-et-Vilaine. The
FOUGÈRES D137 links St-Malo and Rennes, continuing
southwards to Nantes. From Rennes, the
TINTÉNIAC Sens-de-
St-Brieuc BÉCHEREL Bretagne N24 runs west to Lorient, passing through
HÉDÉ Canal d’Ille Couesnon Mayenne Ploërmel. Also from Rennes, the N12-E50 runs
Château de
Caradeuc Les Iffs Saint-Aubin- to St-Brieuc. The marches of Brittany can be
d'Aubigné Saint-Aubin-
du-Cormier reached by following any of the minor roads
Loudéac Montauban-de- ILLE-ET - VILAINE leading to the region’s eastern border: these
Bretagne are the D177 from Redon to Pipriac, the D772
Saint-Méen- Liffré from Pipriac to Bain-de-Bretagne, the D777
le-Grand from Bain-de-Bretagne to Vitré, and the D178
from Châteaubriant to Fougères. The Ille-et-
Champeaux
Cesson-Sévigné Vilaine’s major towns are served by rail and
Montfort-sur-Meu RENNES Châteaubourg VITRÉ CHÂTEAU DES bus links from Rennes.
ROCHERS-SÉVIGNÉ
Villaine
FORÊT DE PAIMPONT Mordelles Châteaugiron Argentré- Laval Key Motorway
Comper
du-Plessis

sur-Seiche
Secondary road
Tréhorenteuc PAIMPONT Châtillon- Major road
Plélan-le-Grand
Forges-de- Guichen
Paimpont Minor road
Coëtquidan Janzé Seiche Main railway
La Roche- LA GUERCHE-
aux-Fées Minor railway
Ploërmel DE-BRETAGNE
Guer Retiers Regional border
Lohéac Bain-de-
Bretagne
Martigné- Étang de la
Semnon
Vilaine
Pipriac Ferchaud Forge
Châteaubriant
Landes de St Just GRAND-
Coujoux FOUGERAY
LANGON
Nantes
REDON
St Nazaire
Traditional farmhouse and mill on the polders of Mont-Dol
For keys to symbols see back flap
060-061_EW_Brittany.indd 61 11/3/16 12:41 PM

62  BRIT T AN Y REGION BY REGION

1 Street-by-Street: Rennes

Around the cathedral, narrow streets wind
between timber-framed houses that conceal
courtyards. On Saturdays, the Place des Lices
throngs with the colourful stalls of one of the
liveliest markets in Brittany. During the week,
the district’s many bars and restaurants are
filled with the animated babble of students.
Neo-Classical buildings by the architect Jacques
Gabriel (1667–1742) line Place de la Mairie.
Rue Le Bastard, leading off the square, is a . Place du Champ-Jacquet
pedestrianized zone and the main link between Tall timber-framed houses dating from the
the Vilaine and the northern part of the city. 17th century back onto the old city walls. R . S A L O M O N
Hôtel de Robien
. Hôtel de Blossac
R U E
This is one of the finest R U E L E B A S TA R D N AT I O N A L E
mansions in Rennes. The
building, in the Neo-Classical
style, was designed by a P L A C E D U C H A M P J A C Q U E T
follower of Jacques Gabriel. RUE D’ ESTRÉES
Hôtel Hay de Tizé
D E T O U L O U S E
Basilique St-Sauveur R U E

D U - B AT Y
R U E R A L L I E R
RUE DU
GUESCLIN
R U E D E
C L I S S O N
DES LICES R U E D E L A M O N N A I E R . S T G U I L L AU M E R U E S T S A U V E U R D E M O N T F O R T
R U E




PL ACE R . D E L A P S A L E T T E D U C H A P I T R E

R .
R UE DE JUILLE T
. Cathédrale St-Pierre R U E G .
The building stands on the site of an Pavillons C A R R E F O U R R U E D U G R I F F O N D O T T I N
ancient place of worship. Although it des Halles C AT H E D R A L N E
D E L A
retains its 16th-century façade, the
cathedral was rebuilt from 1784. D A M E S
R UE DES
Portes Mordelaises
were the ceremonial
0 metres 100
gates used by dukes
0 yards 100 and bishops.
Key Rue de la Psalette is lined
with medieval houses.
Suggested route

For hotels and restaurants see pp224–5 and pp234–5


062-063_EW_Brittany.indd 62 11/3/16 1:02 PM

RENNES  63


VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Parlement de Bretagne
Now housing the law courts, Practical Information
this building’s sumptuous Road map E3. * 212,500.
decoration and paintings have ( Sat am; Place des Lices.
been restored to their original n 11 Rue St-Yves, (02) 99 67 11
splendour following a fire in 11. _ Yaouank, festival of Breton
1994 (see pp66–7). music & fest noz (Nov), Les Trans
Musicales (rock and electro; first
week in Dec), Film Festival (Feb).
R U E V I C T O R opulence of the haberdashers’ ∑ tourisme-rennes.com
Église St-Germain reflects the
H U G O
parish in the 16th century.
Transport
£ @ k Rennes Metropolitan.
R U E H O C H E
S A I N T G E O R G E S
R U E
P L A C E
R . S A L O M O N
S A I N T G E R M A I N
D U PA R L E M E N T
N AT I O N A L E D E B R E TA G N E R U E É . C A V E L L R U E D U V A U
R U E
R U E L E B A S TA R D
D E B R I L H A C Theatre
R U E
C O Ë T Q U E N
R U E D E In designing the theatre, which
RUE D’ ESTRÉES
consists of a rotunda with arcades
and covered alleyways, the
P L A C E
architect Millardet wished to
RUE
D E T O U L O U S E DE L’HERMINE D E L A M A I R I E R U E D ’ O R L É A N S create a meeting place and centre
R U E
of trade. He also designed the
neighbouring residential buildings.
RUE DU RUE DE L’HORLOGE R U E F. B U I S S O N
GUESCLIN
R U E D E
C L I S S O N
R U E
R U E S T S A U V E U R D E M O N T F O R T C A L V A I R E R U E D U C A R TAG E
B E A U M A N O R RUE DE ROHAN
R U E
P L A C E
D U
D U C H A P I T R E
Built by Jacques Gabriel after the great fire of 1720, the
R . R U E S A I N T - Y V E S Chapelle St-Yves Hôtel de Ville
town hall consists of two wings framing the clock tower,
houses the tourist office.
R . D E L A P S A L E T T E
with a belfry in the Italian style. Sculptures by Jacques
R U E D U G R I F F O N D O T T I N Verberckt decorate the main entrance.
R U E G .
D A M E S B O U T E I L L E R Robien’s Cabinet of Curiosities
R U E L E
R UE DES Built at the beginning of the 17th century, the mansion
known as the Hôtel de Robien was acquired in 1699 by
Christophe Paul de Robien. Filled not only with paintings and
statues but also with plants and minerals, it became a true
cabinet of curiosities. Robien bequeathed the collection to
his son in 1756, but it was confiscated by the Revolutionaries
in 1792. It was stored in the Church of the Visitation, then in
Head of an Angel by Botticelli, in the the Carmelite convent in Rennes. The Robien Collection now
Robien Collection forms part of the city’s Musée des Beaux Arts.


062-063_EW_Brittany.indd 63 11/3/16 1:02 PM

64  BRIT T AN Y REGION B Y REGION


Exploring Rennes
Despite the fire that devastated the city centre in 1720,
Rennes still has some fine medieval houses. It also has
many delightful mansions and a remarkable 17th-century
palace. The city has stood at a strategic crossroads since
Roman times. In the 10th century, it withstood Norman
invaders and became a symbol of Breton resistance. In the
15th century, new fortifications were built to strengthen the
existing Gallo-Roman ramparts. When Brittany became part
of France in 1532 and the parliament of Brittany was created
(see pp66–7), Rennes became the regional capital. After the
fire of 1720, a Neo-Classical city centre with rigidly straight
streets was built. This layout, and the buildings dating from the
same period, give Rennes a somewhat austere appearance.
A university town, Rennes has a conspicuously lively
population of students.
Wedding-cake tiers of the façade of
the Cathédrale St-Pierre
P Old Town arcaded residential buildings R Cathédrale St-Pierre
Between the Vilaine in the oppo site were designed Between the Portes Mordelaises
south and Place des Lices in by Millardet in 1836. and Rue de la Psalette.
the north, the medieval The 17th–18th century The cathedral stands on
centre of Rennes is full of Basilique St-Sauveur, the site of an ancient shrine
timber-framed houses. in Rue de Clisson, is in front of which a trove of
Place des Lices (Square of associated with the Gallo-Roman artifacts was
the Lists) takes its name composer Gabriel Fauré, discovered. Work on the
from the lists where jousting who was organist there. building began in the 16th
tourna ments where once Rue St-Georges, lined with century, and the façade was
held. It was here that old houses, leads to completed in the 17th century.
Bertrand du Guesclin the Église St-Germain, The rest was built from 1784
(see p47) first entered the whose transept is a fine to plans by the architect Crucy.
lists. Around the square, example of Breton The 19th-century stuccowork
three mansions – the Wooden statue in Romanesque archi- and gilding within give the
Hôtel du Molant, Hôtel Impasse de la Psalette tecture. Behind the interior an opulence worthy PLACE ST-MALO
de la Noue and Hôtel Église Notre-Dame is of Roman basilicas. The gilt HOCHE
Racapée de la Feuillée – all built the Jardin du Thabor, a master- wood altarpiece, dating from Ste-Anne R UE S T-MEL AI NE
before the fire of 1720 – stand as piece by the Bühler brothers 1520 and by the Flemish PLACE St-Melaine
symbols of the power of the (see p65). School, is of particular note. RU E ST-LOUIS STE-ANNE
Ste-Anne
Breton parliamentary nobility. R U E HOCHE COURS DE LAMOTTE Jardin du
PLACE
The Portes Mordelaises, at ST-MICHEL R UE L E BASTARD RUE DES FOSSÉS Thabor
PLACE
the end of Rue de la Monnaie, DES LICES RUE MA R T E N O T
were the main gateway Parlement
du Bretagne
RUE
through which dukes and TOULOUSE NATIONALE R UE V I CTOR - H U GO
RUE DE
RUE DE LA MONNAIE
bishops entered the city. Behind Portes PLACE DU
PALAIS
the Cathédrale St-Pierre, in Rue Mordelaises Basilique Theatre R
du Chapitre, the Hôtel de Brie St-Sauveur Hôtel PLACE R. ED ITH CAVEL L Église
DE LA
de Ville
and Hôtel de Blossac, with a Cathédrale Hotel de Blossac MAIRIE RUE ST-GEORGES U E GAM BETTA
St-Germain
St-Pierre
monumen tal stairway, are R UE S T- Y V E S RUE D'ORLEANS R U E K LEB E R
among the finest residences. PL MAL RUE DE ROHAN
FOCH
Place de la Mairie is a large Q UAI D U GU AY T ROU IN Q U A I L AMAR T IN E QU A I C HATE AU B R IAN D
La Vilaine
PLACE DE LA
Neo-Classical square designed QU A I LA M E N N AI S RÉPUBLIQUE Q U A I É MI LE-ZOLA
République
by Jacques Gabriel. The most PLACE DE R UE D E LA CH A LO TAIS R UE D U P RE -B O T T E Musée des LE MANS
prominent feature of the Hôtel BRETAGNE Beaux-Arts
de Ville, overlooking the square, Aéroport AVENUE JEAN-JANVIER
7 km (4 miles)
is the clocktower, which replaced R U E P O ULL A IN -DU PA RC RUE DE NEMOURS RUE VA S S E LOT
the old belfry. The sculptures NANTES BOULEVARD DE LA LIBERTÉ RUE DU MARECHAL JOFFRE RUE ST-THOMAS
on the doors are by Jacques
Verberckt, who worked on Écomusée de BOULEVARD DE LA LIBERTÉ Gare Routière,
Gare SNCF
the decoration of Versailles for la Bintinais 300 m (330 yards)
Louis XV. The theatre and Marine Bleue, by G. Lacombe, in the Musée des Beaux-Arts, Rennes
For hotels and restaurants see pp224–5 and pp234–5
064-065_EW_Brittany.indd 64 11/3/16 12:42 PM

RENNES  65


by Poliakoff, Nicolas de Staël,
The Bühler Brothers Raymond Hains and Dufrêne.
Although little-known today, Denis
(1811–90) and Eugène (1822–1907) E Les Champs Libres
Bühler revo lutionized the art of 10 Cours des Alliés. Tel (02) 23 40
garden design. Giving imagination 66 00. Open Tue–Sun pm only. &
free reign, they rejected the This cultural centre has a
strictures of the classic formal museum on Brittany, a science
gardens in the French style. The centre, a public library and a
Bühler brothers designed some conference hall. Exhibitions
100 gardens. About 20 of these are The Jardin du Thabor, laid out by the address subjects such as
in Brittany, and they include the Bühler brothers literature, history, physics
gardens of the Château de and astronomy.
Kervenez in St-Pol-de-Léon and of
the Château de la Briantais in St-Malo. But it was in Rennes that
they designed their finest garden, the Jardin du Thabor. Laid out E Écomusée de la Bintinais
in the style of a 19th-century park, the garden follows the contours On the road to Châtillon-sur-Seiche,
of the land and incorporates greenhouses, pavilions and an aviary. via the D82, 4 km (3 miles) south
Exotic and indigenous trees frame the garden’s perspectives. of Rennes. Tel (02) 99 51 38 15.
Open Tue–Fri, Sat–Sun pm.
Closed Mon and public holidays. &
E Musée des Beaux-Arts of the museum, Nouveau-né La Bintinais is one of the largest
20 Quai Émile-Zola. Tel (02) 23 62 by Georges de La Tour. The old farms in the countryside
17 45. Open Tue–Sun. & museum has expan ded its around Rennes. Converted into
The Robien Collection (see p63) collection with an additional a living museum, it illustrates
contains drawings by Leonardo space for modern and the history of rural life.
da Vinci, Botticelli, Donatello contemporary art. Modern Fields have been planted to
and Dürer. There is also a art is represented by such show various farming practices
strong focus on the 17th cen- painters as Corot, Denis, of the past, and a conservation
tury, with works by Le Brun Gauguin, Lacombe, Caillebotte orchard has been created to
and Philippe de Champaigne, and Sisley. The contempo rary preserve varieties of cider
Rubens’ Tiger Hunt and the star collection includes works apples that have become rare.

Rennes City Centre
Key
1 Portes Mordelaises
2 Cathédrale St-Pierre See pp62–3
3 Basilique St-Sauveur
4 Hôtel de Ville HOCHE ST-MALO
PLACE
5 Theatre R UE S T-M EL AI NE
6 Parlement de Bretagne Ste-Anne
PLACE
7 Jardin du Thabor RU E ST-LOUIS STE-ANNE St-Melaine
8 Église St-Germain Ste-Anne R U E HOCHE Jardin du
9 Musée des Beaux-Arts ST-MICHEL R UE L E BASTARD RUE DES FOSSÉS COURS DE LAMOTTE Thabor
PLACE
PLACE
DES LICES Parlement RUE MA R T E N O T
RUE
RUE DE NATIONALE du Bretagne
TOULOUSE
R UE V I CTOR - H U GO
RUE DE LA MONNAIE St-Sauveur de Ville PLACE R. ED ITH CAVEL L St-Germain
PALAIS
Portes PLACE DU
Mordelaises Theatre R
Basilique
Hôtel
DE LA
Église
MAIRIE
Cathédrale
Hotel de Blossac
PL MAL St-Pierre R UE S T- Y V E S RUE DE ROHAN RUE D'ORLEANS RUE ST-GEORGES U E GAM BETTA R U E K LEB E R
FOCH
Q UAI D U GU AY T ROU I N Q U A I L AMAR T IN E QU A I C HATE AUB R IAN D
PLACE DE LA La Vilaine
QU A I LA M E N N AI S RÉPUBLIQUE Q U A I É MI LE-ZOLA
République LE MANS
PLACE DE R UE D E LA CH A LO TAIS R UE D U P RE -B O T T E
BRETAGNE Musée des
Beaux-Arts
Aéroport
7 km (4 miles) AVENUE JEAN-JANVIER
R U E P O ULL A IN -DU PA RC RUE DE NEMOURS RUE VA S S E LOT
NANTES BOULEVARD DE LA LIBERTÉ RUE DU MARECHAL JOFFRE RUE ST-THOMAS
0 metres 200 BOULEVARD DE LA LIBERTÉ Gare Routière,
300 m (330 yards)
0 yards 200 Écomusée de Gare SNCF
la Bintinais
For keys to symbols see back flap
064-065_EW_Brittany.indd 65 11/3/16 12:42 PM

66  BRIT T AN Y REGION B Y REGION


Parlement de Bretagne
The Breton parliament, dating from 1618–55, is a major
landmark in the city of Rennes. Salomon de Brosse, the
architect of the Palais du Luxembourg in Paris, designed
the façade in the Italian style. The interior courtyard, by
contrast, is built in brick and stone in the French style.
The interior decoration of the building emphasizes the . Court of Assises
hallowed importance of Brittany’s independent political The tables and benches
power: the sumptuous Salle des Pas-Perdus, with the in the audience chambers
coat of arms of Brittany and France, and the ceiling of are made of oak. The
the Grand’Chambre, designed by Louis XIV’s foremost room is lit by antique
and modern chandeliers.
painter, amply express this. Gutted by fire in February
1994, the building took ten years to restore.













. Salle des
Pas-Perdus
The door to the
Salle des Pas-Perdus
(the lobby) features
windows decorated
with metalwork.
The room has an
ornate wooden
coffered ceiling.





Salle Jobbé-Duval
The allegories painted
by Félix Jobbé-Duval in
1866 were the last
decorative elements to
be added. The allegory
seen here is Eloquence.

KEY
1 Pediment Salle des Piliers
2 Former Court of Criminal This is the grand
Justice entrance hall to the
parliament building. Like
3 Slate roof, covering 5,200 sq m the rest of the interior, it
(18,660 sq ft) is built of stone, a
4 The ground-floor rooms traditionally French
of the building were used for construction that
official ceremonies. contrasts with Jacques
Gabriel’s classical façade.
For hotels and restaurants see pp224–5 and pp234–5


066-067_EW_Brittany.indd 66 11/3/16 1:02 PM

RENNES  67

Upper Gallery
The audience VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
chambers on the upper
level are arranged in a Practical Information
gallery running around Place du Parlement-de-Bretagne.
8 Compulsory. Information
the court.
from the tourist office; (02) 99 67
11 66. &
∑ tourisme-rennes.com











. Grand’Chambre
Charles Errard, in charge of
the building’s decoration,
experimented here before
starting the decoration
of Versailles. For the
Grand’Chambre, he
called on his pupil Noël
Coypel, and, for the
First Chamber, on Jean-
Baptiste Jouvenet. Both
decorated the rooms
with allegorical paintings.











Allegorical Figures
Four allegorical figures, representing
Eloquence, Fortitude, Law and Justice,
once decorated the roof of the south lodges.
Cast in lead and covered in gold leaf, the figures
were made by Dolivet in the 19th century and
restored by Jean-Loup Bouvier.

Parlement de Bretagne
5 6 7
Key to Floorplan
1 Salle des Pas-Perdus (lobby)
2 Salle Jobbé-Duval
4 9 3 Chapel
8
4 Court of Assises
5 Salle Nicolas-Gosse
6 Salle Ferdinand-Elle
3 1
7 Salle Jean-Jouvenet
2 8 Grand’Chambre (upper house)
9 Courtyard and galleries



066-067_EW_Brittany.indd 67 11/3/16 1:02 PM

68  BRIT T AN Y REGION B Y REGION





















The Château de Trécesson, built in the late 14th century and surrounded by a moat
2 Paimpont southeast of Paimpont on the supposed to have nursed
D773, are vestiges of the village’s people suffering from foolish
Road map E3. 30 km (18.5 miles)
south of Rennes via the N24 then the former iron and steel industry, thoughts. Take the interactive
D38. £ Rennes. * 1,385. n Place which began in 1663. The trail from the Paimpont tourist
du Roi Judicaël, Paimpont; (02) 99 07 foundries declined after the rise office through the forest.
84 23. _ Pardon (Whitsun). of the iron and steel industry in
∑ tourisme-broceliande.bzh northern and eastern France. Environs
At Coëtquidan is the École
The village grew up around 3 Forêt de de St-Cyr, a military academy.
an abbey founded in the The Musée des Souvenirs des
7th century. Of this, only the Paimpont Écoles here displays gifts
13th-century abbey church Road map E3. Around Paimpont. from prominent alumni, such
and a 17th-century building, n Place du Roi Judicaël, Paimpont; as the statesman General de
now the village hall, survive. (02) 99 07 84 23. Gaulle (1890–1970). The un-
The abbey church features usual Chapelle de Tréhorenteuc,
Romanesque elements, a This woodland, the Forêt de 14 km (9 miles) west of
Gothic rose window and some Brocéliande of Celtic legend, Paimpont, contains mosaics
17th-century woodcarvings. The was originally the extensive and stained-glass windows
village is the starting point for forest that once covered almost on the theme of the Round
hikes in the Forêt de Brocéliande, all of inland Brittany. Today, the Table. This is the starting point
with its many oaks and beeches. woodland around Paimpont for the Promenade du Val-sans-
is all that remains and it is Retour (Valley of No Return),
Environs peppered with sites that have dwelling place of Morgan le Fay,
Industrial buildings at Forges- kept Arthurian legends alive. Arthur’s half-sister, who trapped
de-Paimpont, 6 km (4 miles) The Château de Comper, where unfaithful men here. Passing
the fairy Vivian is supposed to the lake known as the Étang du
have lived, houses the Centre Miroir-aux-Fées, the path leads
de l’Imaginaire Arthurien, up onto moorland and then
where exhibitions and shows on through the valley. Further
take place, and from which south, look out for views of
walks are organized. Rebuilt in the 14th-century red schist
the 18th century in Renaissance Château de Trécesson.
style, the building features
three 14th-century towers. + Centre de l’Imaginaire
The D31 leads northeast to Arthurien
Merlin’s Tomb and the Fountain Château de Comper. Tel (02) 97 22 79
of Youth. The tree above the 96. Open Mar–Jun, Sep: Thu–Mon;
tomb is filled with strange Jul–Aug: daily. &
offerings. From the hamlet of + Château de Trécesson
Folle Pensée, a short walk leads Closed to the public.
to the Fontaine de Barenton, E Musée des Souvenirs des
into which young women once Écoles
Forêt de Paimpont, vestige of the legendary cast pins in order to find a Coëtquidan, Guer. Tel (02) 97 70
Forêt de Brocéliande husband. Here, druids are 77 52. Open Tue–Sun. Closed Jan. &
For hotels and restaurants see pp224–5 and pp234–5


068-069_EW_Brittany.indd 68 11/3/16 12:42 PM

ILLE-E T-VILAINE  69


Romances of the Round Table

A large number of romances (medieval vernacular tales) make up the cycle of
Arthurian literature. From that of Chrétien de Troyes, writing in the 12th century, to
that of Sir Thomas Malory, in the 15th, there are almost 100 separate accounts. While
the earliest are in verse, later ones are in prose, and they are written either in French,
English or German. They tell of the adventures of Gawain, of the love of Tristan and
Iseult (the queen with the milk-white hands), of Arthur’s unstoppable rise, of Merlin’s
tragic fate, of the creation of the Round Table, of magic and sorcery in Brittany, of the
quest for the Holy Grail and of the epic Battle of Salesbières. A conflation of several
different ideologies, Arthurian literature contains pagan Celtic and Indo-European
elements, and Christian dialectic, giving an insight into the multifaceted culture of
the late Middle Ages. Long neglected, Arthurian literature was rediscovered at the
beginning of the 20th century. It has inspired not only literature but also music
(Wagner’s Parsifal, for example), and film (John Borman’s Excalibur, for instance).


Sir Galahad,
destined to find
the Holy Grail.
Angels support
the Holy Grail, an The Holy Grail,
aspect of Christianity symbol of the
incorporated into mystery of the
The conception of Merlin the Arthurian legend. Eucharist.
wizard took place between the
Devil and a pious mortal.




The Holy Grail
The vessel used by Christ and
his disciples at the Last Supper
appeared before the Knights of
the Round Table. In The Quest
of the Holy Grail, it is said to
have floated in mid-air, giving
the knights divine sustenance
while a heavenly voice invited
them to go in search of it.
King Arthur and the
Knights of the Round
Table are shown in this
depiction in a French
manuscript from the
15th century.




Merlin’s passion
for Vivian led the wizard
to reveal to his pupil the
secrets that were to lead
him to his unhappy fate.
He was imprisoned
forever in a tree.





068-069_EW_Brittany.indd 69 11/3/16 12:42 PM

70  BRIT T AN Y REGION B Y REGION


In the 20th century, manu facturer Yves Rocher and
several important the Muséum National d’Histoire
companies chose it Naturelle have joined forces to
as their base. create the Végétarium de La
In the historic Gacilly. In this botanical garden,
centre, timber-framed over 1,000 species of plants are
houses dating from grown in their appropriate
the 15th, 16th and habitat, and their uses explained.
17th centuries can be St Just, 20 km (12 miles)
seen around Grande- north of Redon, is at the centre
Rue. In the harbour, of an area rich in megaliths,
houses with over- including the galleried grave
hanging upper storeys at Tréal and the Landes de
alternate with 17th- Cojoux, a long narrow ridge
and 18th-century with many megaliths. At
shipowners’ mansions. Lohéac, 15 km (9 miles) north
In Rue du Port, three of St Just, the Manoir de
17th-century salt l’Automobile contains a display
ware houses, now of over 400 collectors’ cars,
restored, can be seen including Rolls-Royces, Ferraris,
at Nos. 32, 36 and 40. Lamborghinis, Cadillacs and
The cloister of the Abbaye de St-Sauveur in Redon, The Musée de la pre-war models. There is also
dating from the 17th century Batellerie, on Quai a go-karting circuit.
Jean-Bart, illustrates
4 Redon the history of river navigation E Musée de la Batellerie
in Brittany through models Quai Jean-Bart. Tel (02) 99 72 30 95.
Road map E3. * 10,500. £ Open Apr–mid-Jun & mid-Sep–mid-
n Place de la République, (02) 99 71 and documents. Nov: Sat–Mon & Wed pm; mid-Jun–
06 04. ( Mon, Fri & Sat. _ Mois du The Abbaye de St-Sauveur, mid-Sep: daily. Closed mid-Nov–Mar.
Marron, Oct. ∑ tourisme-pays- the most important abbey in &
redon.com Brittany during the Middle Ages,
is a monument to the power R Abbaye de St-Sauveur
This town is located on the of the Benedictine order. Its Place St-Sauveur. Tel (02) 99 71 06 04.
borders of three départe ments: Romanesque belfry, built in 8 Jul–Aug: Mon & Thu. &
the Ille-et-Vilaine, the Loire- limestone and granite and set Y Végétarium de La Gacilly
Atlantique and the Morbihan. apart from the abbey itself, rises La Croix-des-Archers. Tel (02) 99 08 35
From the 9th century, it was in three open tiers. It is unique in 84. Open daily. 8 Jul–Aug (phone
renowned for its Benedictine Brittany. The Romanesque nave for details).
abbey, which was the most with wooden ceiling contrasts
important in Brittany. The with the choir, which has T Tréal Archaeological Site and
Cartulaire de Redon (see p43), quatrefoil columns and Gothic Landes de Cojoux
the earliest document in the chapels. The cloister was rebuilt Open all year. Tel (02) 99 72 69 25.
history of Brittany, was written in the 17th century. In 1622, 8 Jul–Aug: Tue & Fri (phone for
here. At the hub of roads Richelieu was an abbot here. details). &
and railways, and near the E Manoir de l’Automobile
con fluence of two rivers, Redon Environs Lohéac, on the D177. Tel (02) 99 34 02
developed a diverse economy Some 10 km (6 miles) north 32. Open Jul–Aug: daily; Sep–Jun:
and became an industrial centre. of Redon, the perfume Tue–Sun. &

Church Altarpieces
Reacting against Protestant austerity, the
Counter-Reformation in Brittany extolled
the Catholic faith through magnificent
church ornament. Altarpieces carved in wood
or stone in an extravagant Baroque style
graced the region’s churches. The town of La
Guerche-de-Bretagne is located in the heart
of a region in which artists from Laval
excelled in this field. Working with marble
from Laval and Le Mans, and with tufa from
the Loire, the sculptors Houdault, Corbineau
Detail of altarpiece and Langlois created consoles, pyramids,
at Domalain putti, foliate scrolls and garlands of fruit. Exhibits at the Manoir de l’Automobile
in Lohéac
For hotels and restaurants see pp224–5 and pp234–5


070-071_EW_Brittany.indd 70 11/3/16 1:02 PM

ILLE-E T-VILAINE  71


The church, built in the
15th and 16th centuries,
has unusual Renaissance
choir stalls (1525) with
carvings depicting the Seven
Deadly Sins. The dark blue
barrel-vaulted ceiling and
15th-century stained-glass
windows are also notable.
Environs
La Roche-aux-Fées stands
15 km (9 miles) west of La
Guerche-de-Bretagne. It was
built during the third millenium
BC and is one of the most
The Chapelle Ste-Agathe, dedicated to Venus, in Langon important dolmens in France.
It consists of 41 stones, some
5 Langon 7 La Guerche- of which weigh 45 tonnes,
Road map E3. 20 km (13 miles) de-Bretagne and is 19.5 m (64 ft) long and
northeast of Redon via the D177 then Road map F3. 20 km (12.5 miles) 4 m (13 ft) high. The interior
the D55. * 1,300. south of Vitré via the D178. * 4,090. contains four chambers. How
and why it was built has still
This small town is separated n 4 Rue du Cheval Blanc; (02) 99 96 not been determined.
30 78. ( Tue.
from the Vilaine river by The ponds and wood around
marshland known as the Marais On the border with Normandy, Martigné-Ferchaud, 15 km
de l’Étier. The Chapelle Ste- La Guerche-de-Bretagne is (9 miles) south of La Roche-
Agathe is a rare survival from one of the fortified towns that aux-Fées, have become a
the Gallo-Roman period. It is once defended the borders sanctuary for migratory birds.
dedicated to Venus and, behind of Brittany. Its geographical The Étang de la Forge is a haven
the altar, there is a fresco location also made it an for ducks, coots and small
depicting Venus rising from the important centre of commerce, waders. The pond is named after
waves and Eros astride a dolphin. and it was especially renowned the former ironworks, dating
The Église St-Pierre is worth a for its linen trade (see p110). from 1672, found nearby.
visit for its unusual bell tower, The market that takes place
which features 12 bell-turrets. here each week was first held R Collégiale Notre-Dame
On the Lande du Moulin in 1121 and is one of the oldest Place Charles-de-Gaulle.
stands an alignment of menhirs in France. Tel (02) 99 96 30 78. Open daily.
known as the Demoiselles de Half-timbered houses 8 by request, phone the
Langon. According to legend, that date from the 16th tourist office. &
young girls who chose to dance and 17th centuries line the  La Roche-aux-Fées
on the heath rather than attend main square. The many gables From La Guerche-de-Bretagne, take
vespers were punished by on the Collégiale Notre- the D178 towards Chateaubriant then
being turned to stone. Dame are fine examples of the D47 towards Retiers and the D41
the Flamboyant Gothic style towards Janzé. The site is 2 km (1 mile)
of Upper Brittany (see p27). from Retiers. Open daily. Open access.
6 Grand-Fougeray
Road map E3. 30 km (18.5 miles)
northeast of Redon, via the D177 then
the D54. * 4,125.
The Tour du Guesclin is all
that remains of the medieval
castle that once stood in Grand-
Fougeray. The fortress belonged
to the Rieux family, allies of Jean
IV, Duke of Brittany, against the
constable (chief military officer)
Olivier de Clisson. In 1350, an
English sea captain took the
castle. Bertrand du Guesclin
(see p47) and his men later
recaptured it for France and
ever since it has borne his name. La Roche-aux-Fées, one of Brittany’s mysterious megalithic monuments




070-071_EW_Brittany.indd 71 11/3/16 1:02 PM

72  BRIT T AN Y REGION B Y REGION


8 Vitré paintings. The top of the Tour
Montafilant commands a superb
Road map F3. * 15,910. £ panorama over the town.
n Place Général de Gaulle; (02) 99 75
04 46. ( Mon & Sat. The Église Notre-Dame, in
∑ bretagne-vitre.com Rue Montafilant, was rebuilt
from 1420 to 1550, and is in the
Unusually well preserved, this Flamboyant Gothic style; this can
fortified town has a wealth of be seen clearly on its southern
picturesque houses. Until the side, which bristles with finials.
end of the 17th century, it owed Inside are altar pieces (see p70) The Breton coat of arms in the Église
its prosperity to the trade in and a beautiful Renaissance Notre-Dame in Vitré
linen cloth, which was exported stained-glass window. A plaque
all over Europe and as far commemorates Field-marshal 9 Château des
away as South America. In Gilles de Rais (see p47), lord Rochers-Sévigné
1472, the Brotherhood of the of Vitré and companion-at-
Annunciation became the arms of Joan of Arc. He was, Road map F3. 8 km (5 miles) south-
organizational force behind however, executed for having east of Vitré via the D88. Tel (02) 99 75
this international trade. murdered children. 04 54. Open Apr–Sep: daily; Mar &
Oct: Wed–Mon. Closed Nov–Feb. &
A succession of powerful Around the church, in Rue 8 obligatory.
lords – Laval, Montmorency d’Embas, Rue Baudrairie, Rue
and Montfort – were prominent St-Louis and Rue de Paris, the This castle, some 8 km (5 miles)
in the region’s history. In the finest medieval and Renaissance southeast of Vitré, was built in
16th century, Guy XVI established houses in Vitré can be seen. the 15th century and later
what amounted to a court in remodelled. It consists of two
Vitré. Château de Vitré, perched Environs wings set at right angles. At the
on a rocky outcrop, is one of the The 15th-century Collégiale de inter section is a poly gonal
great fortresses that defended Champeaux, 9 km (6 miles) west turret, which contains a
the marches of Brittany. It was of Vitré, recalls the former power staircase. The circular tower on
enlarged from the 13th century of the lords of Espinay. It contains the opposite side predates the
onwards. The entrance is canopied Renaissance choir stalls 15th century. The 17th- century
defended by a small castle with notable carvings, as well as chapel has a hull-shaped roof
flanked by machicolated 16th-century stained glass by and is crowned by a lantern.
towers. A triangular wall set with the Fleming Jehan Adrian. On the ground floor of the
towers encloses the complex. north tower, visitors can see a
The museum within the + Château de Vitré plan of the castle as it was in
castle contains a remarkable Place du Château. Tel (02) 99 75 04 54. 1763, and, on the first floor, a
16th-century triptych decorated Open Jan–Feb & Nov–Dec: Mon, portrait of Madame de Sévigné.
with 32 Limoges enamels. Also Wed–Fri and Sat & Sun pm; Mar & Oct: The castle overlooks an elegant
on display are medieval and Wed–Mon; Apr–Sep: daily. & garden, laid out in the
Renaissance sculpture, R Collégiale de Champeaux 17th century by Charles
16th- and 17th-century On the D29. Tel (09) 62 11 20 95 de Sévigné, son
tapestries, and Breton (mairie). Open daily. of the marquise.






















The Château de Vitré, once defending the marches of Brittany and now containing a museum
For hotels and restaurants see pp224–5 and pp234–5


072-073_EW_Brittany.indd 72 11/3/16 12:42 PM

ILLE-E T-VILAINE  73


The old town (Bourg Vieil), at
the foot of the castle, is filled
with old timber-framed houses,
particularly in Place du Marchix
and Rue de Lusignan. The new
town (Bourg Neuf) overlooks the
castle. Gutted by fire on several
occasions, it was re built in the
18th century.
A timber-framed building in
Rue Nationale, with a porch and
corbelling typical of 15th–16th-
century houses in Upper Brittany,
contains the Musée Emmanuel-
de-La-Villéon. As well as 70
paintings dating from the 17th
and 18th centuries, the museum
Timber-framed houses in the Marchix quarter of Fougères contains 18 works by Emmanuel
de La Villéon (1858–1944), an
0 Fougères It is built to a concentric Impressionist who was born
plan that is typical of in Fougères, and whose work
Road map F2. * 22,800. £
@ Place de la République. n 2 Rue 12th-century fortresses. In depicts Breton landscapes and
Nationale; (02) 99 94 12 20. ( Sat. the 15th century, with the scenes of daily life.
_ Accords et à cris (late Jun); Fêtes development of artillery,
des Angevines (early Sep). the walls were strengthened
∑ ot-fougeres.fr and the embrasures widened
so as to accommodate the
A major town in the marches barrels of canons. The five
of Brittany, Fougères (the name towers that defend the walls –
derives from the Old French the Châtelet de l’Avancée, de
word for “ferns”) has had a Coëtlogon, du Cadran, de Guibé
chequered history over the and de Coigny – also date from
centuries. The French invasion this period. The rampart walk
of 1488 (see p47) began here, offers a fine view over the town.
and the defeat of the Bretons The Église St-Sulpice, with a
at the Battle of St-Aubin-du- slender spire, was built between
Cormier sounded the death- the 15th and 18th centuries in
knell for their independence. the Flamboyant Gothic style.
The imposing Château de The two 15th-century granite
Fougères is a superb example of altarpieces in the transept
medieval military architecture. It contrast with the monumental
was built between the 12th and 18th-century altarpiece in the Japanese-style garden within the
15th centuries, and its ramparts, choir. Also of note is a fine Parc Floral de Haute-Bretagne
set with 13 towers, enclose an 14th-century Virgin and Child
area of 2 ha (5 acres). in painted limestone. Environs
The Parc Floral de Haute-
Bretagne, 20 km (13 miles)
Letters of the Marquise de Sévigné northwest of Fougères, was laid
The walls of the Château des Rochers- out in the 19th century as an
Sévigné seem still to breathe the finely English landscaped park.
honed prose of Madame de Sévigné.
In 1644, Marie de Rabutin-Chantal + Château de Fougères
married the Marquis Henri de Place Pierre-Symon. Tel (02) 99 99 79
Sévigné, a spendthrift and liber tine. 59. Open Jun–Sep: daily; Oct–May:
After his death in a duel, the Tue–Sun. Closed Jan. &
marquise withdrew to the chateau.
She filled her days by writing long E Musée Emmanuel-de-
and frequent letters to her daughter La-Villéon
– to whom she addressed almost 300 Rue Nationale. Open May: Sat & Sun
– as well as to the Countess of Grignan, pm; Jun–Sep: Tue–Sun pm.
who was living in the Drôme, in Closed Mon. &
southern France. The immediacy
of this correspon dence is still Marie de Rabutin-Chantal, Y Parc Floral de Haute-Bretagne
compelling today. Marquise de Sévigné La Foltière, Le Châtellier. Tel (02) 99 95
48 32. Open Mar–Nov: daily. &




072-073_EW_Brittany.indd 73 11/3/16 12:42 PM

74  BRIT T AN Y REGION B Y REGION


throughout Europe. This the main building is mostly
former wealth can be seen in the 18th-century, with 13th-
houses of the town’s historical century towers.
middle class – handsome granite
buildings of uniform design. + Château de Caradeuc
Tel (02) 99 66 81 10. Open Park only:
Environs Jul–Aug: pm daily. &
The Château de Caradeuc, + Château de Montmuran
1 km (0.5 mile) west of Bécherel, Tel (02) 99 45 88 88. Open Jun–Sep:
once belonged to L. R. de Sun–Fri pm. 8 obligatory. &
Caradeuc La Chalotais (1701–
85), Attorney-General of the
Breton parliament and a heroic e Tinténiac
figure in Breton resistance to Road map E2. 30 km (19 miles) north
centralized French government. of Rennes via the D137 then the D20.
Built in the 18th century, * 2,500. ( Wed.
The locks at Hédé, still manually the chateau has an elegant
operated Regency façade and is set in a This small town is associated
lovely park. with the Chevalier de Tinténiac,
q Hédé-Bazouges Les Iffs, 6 km (4 miles) east who fought alongside the
of Bécherel, is named after the Chouans (see p52). The Musée
Road map E2. 14 km (9 miles)
south of Combourg on the D795. 100-year-old yew trees (ifs) in its de l’Outil et des Métiers,
* 1,930. n Town Hall; (02) 99 45 parish close. The church here, located on the canalside,
46 18. ( Tue. built in Flamboyant contains collections of tools
Gothic style, has nine used for rope-making,
Gustave Flaubert described the beautiful stained- harness-making,
valley in which Hédé is located glass windows. The blacksmithing, barrel-
as “wide, beautiful and fertile, Fontaine St-Fiacre, making and other rural
broad vista of greenery and just outside Les Iffs crafts. The church was
trees”. Of Hédé’s castle, only a on its northern completely rebuilt in
part of the walls and one side side, is a spring the Byzantine style at
of the keep remain. The church, that was en closed the beginning of the
built in the 11th century, is in in the 15th century. 20th century.
the early Romanesque style. In time of drought,
La Madeleine, 1 km (0.5 mile) pilgrims would Environs
north of Hédé, is the starting come here to pray The Château de La
point of the Promenade des for rain. Clogs, Musée de l’Outil et Motte-Beaumanoir,
Onze-Écluses, a delectably The Château de des Métiers, Tinténiac 12 km (8 miles) north
bucolic walk along the Ille-et- Montmuran, on the of Tinténiac, has been
Rance canal, which has a flight of road to Tinténiac, has rebuilt many times and is now
11 locks with a 27-m (88-ft) rise. associations with Bertrand a hotel. The façade gives an
du Guesclin, who was knighted idea of its appearance in the
in its chapel in 1354. The 15th century: the main part of
w Bécherel gatehouse, with original the castle is a two-storey
portcullis, is 14th-century, while building with a corner tower
Road map E2. 17 km (10.5 miles)
north of Monfort via the D72, D70 and
D20. * 670. n 4 Route de Montfort;
(02) 99 66 65 65. _ Fête du Livre
Ancien (Easter weekend).
∑ becherel.com
With a wealth of antiquarian
booksellers, second-hand book
dealers, bookbinders and
bookshops, Bécherel has both
a literary and a medieval
atmosphere. The castle, built
in 1124 and now in ruins, was
wrested from the English by
Bertrand du Guesclin in 1374
after a 15-month siege. In the
17th and 18th centuries, the
town prospered from the linen
and hemp trade, exporting cloth Le Seanachi, one of many antiquarian bookshops in Bécherel
For hotels and restaurants see pp224–5 and pp234–5


074-075_EW_Brittany.indd 74 11/3/16 1:02 PM

ILLE-E T-VILAINE  75























The Château de Combourg, now inhabited by a descendant of Chateaubriand’s elder brother
containing a staircase. In + Château de la Bourbansais to the 11th century, was rebuilt
1776, the naval captain Jean and Zoo in the late Gothic style in the
Thomas de Lorgeril, who had Pleugueneuc. Tel (02) 99 69 40 07. 14th and 15th centuries.
prospered as a privateer, Open Apr–Sep: daily; Oct–Mar: In 1761, it was acquired by
acquired the manor, adding daily pm. 8 & Chateaubriand’s father, a rich
two wings to it. ∑ labourbansais.com shipowner from St-Malo. As a
About 12 km (8 miles) north child, Chateaubriand spent
of Tinténiac, towards Dinan, is much time here, as described
the Château de la Bourbansais, r Combourg in Mémoires d’Outre-Tombe.
built in the 16th century and Road map E2. * 4,843. £ Inside the castle, the writer’s
enlarged in the 18th. On the n Maison de la Lanterne, 23 Place desk, armchair and deathbed,
ground floor are 18th-century Albert-Parent; (02) 99 73 13 93. ( and a bust of him by David
furniture, Au busson tapestries Mon. _ Foire de l’Angevine, first Mon d’Angers, can be seen in the
and Oriental porcelain impor ted in Sep. ∑ tourisme-combourg.fr archive room. The rest of the
by the French East India interior was entirely restored
Company. The surround ing This town is closely asso ciated in 1875. The landscaped park
park contains a substantial zoo. with the French Romantic writer was designed by the Bühler
François René de Chateaubriand, brothers (see p65).
E Musée de l’Outil et des Métiers who lived in the Château de
Magasin à Grain, Quai de la Donac. Combourg, an imposing Environs
Tel (02) 99 23 09 30. Open Jul–Sep: building with pepperpot towers. The Château de Landal,
Tue–Sat, and Sun pm. & The castle, whose origins go back 15 km (9 miles) northeast of
Combourg, has an impressive
location, within ramparts. Two
François René de Chateaubriand of its corner towers date from
“It was in the woods around Combourg the 15th century. Before it was
that I became what I am,” stated acquired by Joseph de France,
Chateaubriand (1768–1848) in his in 1696, it belonged to some
Mémoires d’Outre-Tombe (Memoirs of the greatest Breton families.
from Beyond the Grave; 1830–41). It was left to ruin for over ten
Born in St-Malo, this great years and recent attempts to
Romantic writer spent periods of restore it have been abandoned.
time in the family castle. He later
studied in Dol-de-Bretagne, + Château de Combourg
Rennes, then Dinan, and Tel (02) 99 73 22 95. Open Apr–Jun &
regularly stayed with his sisters in Sep–Oct: Sun pm–Fri; Jul–Aug: daily.
Fougères until 1791. He came to Closed Nov–Mar. 8 obligatory. &
fame with Atala (1801). Le Génie du
Christianisme (The Genius of + Château de Landal
Christianity; 1802) established his 3 km (2 miles) north of Broualan,
reputation. The biographical Mémoires on the Aigles de Bretagne route.
are considered to be his masterpiece. François René de Chateaubriand Closed until further notice.





074-075_EW_Brittany.indd 75 11/3/16 1:02 PM

76  BRIT T AN Y REGION B Y REGION

t Dol-de-Bretagne which they are decorated are in Ages. At No. 17, the Maison
the Anglo-Norman Gothic style, des Petits-Palets, with carved
Road map E2. * 5,020. £ n 5
Place de la Cathédrale; (02) 99 48 15 and are similar to those in Romanesque arcades, is a
37. ( Sat. _ Folklore festival (last Salisbury Cathedral. rare example of French
Sun in Jul); Christmas market. A very expressive Scourging of 12th-century town architecture.
∑ pays-de-dol.com Christ can be seen in the north Opposite, a porch leads to
aisle, and in the north transept the Cour aux Chartiers, a
The religious capital of lies the splendid tomb of 15th-century courtyard.
Nominoë, king of Brittany Thomas James, bishop of Dol The Logis de la Croix Verte,
during the 9th century, Dol from 1482 to 1504. Dating from at No. 18, also dating from the
owes its prestige and prosperity the 16th century, with figures of 12th century, was once an inn
to its cathedral, which is one of classical inspiration, this tomb is run by the Knights Templar.
the finest examples of Gothic one of the earliest signs of the The Maison de la Guillotière, at
architecture in Brittany. Renaissance in Brittany. It was No. 27, has a porch supported
In about 548, St Samson, carved in the workshop of the on polygonal columns with
one of the seven monks who Florentine sculptor Jean Juste, carved capitals.
established Christianity in who also made the tomb of
Brittany, arrived from England Louis XII in St-Denis, near Paris. R Cathédrale St-Samson
and founded a monastery. A The 77 choir stalls are lit by an Place de la Cathédrale. Open daily.
town grew up around it and, outstanding 13th-century 8 Jul–Aug: daily. Concerts: Jul–Aug:
despite suffering repeated stained-glass window with Tue & Thu eve.
attacks by English-controlled medallion-shaped panels. Some E La Cathédraloscope
Normandy and from the kings of the stained-glass windows Place de la Cathédrale. Tel (02) 99 48
of France, it flourished and here are among the oldest 35 30. Open Apr–Sep: daily. Closed
enjoyed great prestige until in Brittany. Oct–Mar. &
1801. In 1793, it was the scene Using the most up-to-date
of bloody conflict between tech niques, La Cathédraloscope,
Chouan royalists and in the former bishop’s palace
Republicans (see p52). on Place de la Cathédrale, gives
The Cathédrale St-Samson a history of the cathedral’s
stands on the former site of a construction and the work of
Romanesque church that was the craftsmen involved, from
burned down by Jean sans Terre building techniques and skills
in 1203. The great 14th-century used, to the symbolism of
doorway on the south side is the decoration on the façade
finely decorated. The north side, and the making of the stained-
by contrast, faces the open glass windows.
countryside and has the The Promenade des Douves
appearance of a fortified wall. (Moat Walk), which passes
The interior is impressive behind the cathedral’s apse,
through its sheer size. In the follows the ramparts on the
nave, 93 m (305 ft) long, seven northern side of the town, The Menhir du Champ-Dolent, in the
spans of arches rise through from where there is a view “Field of Sorrow”
three tiers (an arcade, triforium of the marshes and of
arches and a clerestory), and the Mont-Dol. Grande-Rue-des- y Menhir du
crossing is crowned by a 20-m Stuart, with houses with pillared Champ-Dolent
(65-ft) high dome. The columns, porches, offers a glimpse of Dol
arches and stylized motifs with as it appeared in the Middle Road map E2. About 2 km (1 mile)
south of Dol-de-Bretagne on the
D795. Open daily. Open access.
Consisting of a single block
of granite 9.5 m (31 ft) high,
the Menhir du Champ-Dolent
is the tallest – and some
would say also the finest –
of Brittany’s standing stones.
According to legend, it fell
from the sky, separating
two warring brothers who
were locked in deadly battle.
It is this legend that accounts
for the name “Champ
Dolent”, meaning “Field
Replica of a medieval engine used in the building of the Cathédrale St-Samson of Sorrow”.
For hotels and restaurants see pp224–5 and pp234–5


076-077_EW_Brittany.indd 76 11/3/16 12:42 PM

ILLE-E T-VILAINE  77


atmospheric conditions. It is,
apparently, possible to predict
the weather accordingly, and
every bit as accurately as the
official forecast.
Oak stakes, known as
bouchots, can be seen all along
the bay. Driven into the sea
bed, they are used for mussel-
breeding, a practice that goes
back as far as the 13th century.
A quarter of all mussels farmed
in France are raised in this bay,
where the yield reaches 10,000
tonnes per year.
Windmills and low thatched
houses line the coast as far
as Cancale. At Le Vivier-sur-
Mer, the Maison de la Baie
houses a exhibition on mussel-
farming and on the area’s
plants and animals. Visits to
Sand yachts on wide, flat beaches near Cherrueix the bouchots, which are
reachable on foot or by
u Mont-Dol i Baie du Mont- tractor-drawn transport, also
Road map E2. 2 km (1 mile) north of St-Michel start from here. Beware of fast-
Dol-de-Bretagne on the D155. Road map E-F1. n Dol-de-Bretagne; rising tides and quick sand. At
Cherrueix, there is a sand-
This outcrop of granite, 65 m (02) 99 48 15 37. _ Fête des Moules yachting centre, where this
(213 ft) high, commands a (Aug); Pardon de Ste-Anne in Roz-sur- sport (see p253) is taught on
Couesnon (Aug).
breathtaking view over an the beaches.
expanse of polders (reclaimed The coastline here flattens out
land). Like neighbouring into a wide expanse of sand O Maison de la Baie
Mont-St-Michel and Mont from which, almost magically, Le Vivier-sur-Mer.
Tombelaine, Mont-Dol was Mont-St-Michel rises. The Tel (02) 99 48 84 38.
once an island. During the appearance of its silhouette Open phone ahead for information.
Palaeolithic period, the region subtly changes with different & for exhibitions and guided walks.
was covered in steppe and
fenland. Finds of animal bones
and stone tools prove that Polders – Land Reclaimed From the Sea
hunter-gatherers lived on the As glaciers began to melt at the end of the Ice Age, 10,000 years ago,
meat of reindeer, mammoth, the sea level rose, flooding coastal Brittany. The marshland around
lion, woolly rhino, horse, Mont-Dol was eventually invaded by the sea. Work to reclaim the
aurochs (a type of 17th- land began in the Middle Ages, when dykes were built. Crops were
century wild cattle), bear and grown on these areas of fertile land, known as polders. However,
wolf. Much later, Mont-Dol since a dyke was built between Mont-Dol and the mainland,
became a sacred place where sediment is no longer flushed out to sea on the ebbing tides, so that
druids worshipped. the bay is silting up. A solution under consideration is to remove part
A legend tells how St Michael of the dyke, allowing Mont-Dol to become an island again.
and the Devil fought a battle on
Mont-Dol. Supposed traces of
this can be seen on the rock: the
Devil’s claw marks, a hole for the
Devil dug by St Michael, and
footprints left by the Archangel
Michael when he leaped across
to Mont-St-Michel.
South of Mont-Dol lies the
small town of the same name.
Frescoes dating from the 12th
and 14th centuries, depicting
scenes from the life of Christ,
have been discovered in the Cultivation on the polders in Baie du Mont-St-Michel
nave of the church here.




076-077_EW_Brittany.indd 77 11/3/16 12:42 PM

78  BRIT T AN Y REGION B Y REGION

o Mont-St-Michel The abbey in the
10th century
Wreathed in mist and surrounded by water, Mont-
St-Michel, which stands at the Couesnon estuary,
bet ween Brittany and Normandy, is one of the most
extraordinary sights on the French coast. The rocky islet
was originally known as Mont-Tombe, and a small The abbey in the
oratory was built here in the 8th century. Work on the 11th century
abbey began in the 10th century, and by the 16th
century it had increased the height of the mount almost
two-fold. The mount drew many pilgrims, particularly
during medieval times. During the French Revolution it
became a prison. In 1874 its upkeep was entrusted to
the Service des Monuments Historiques. Austrian The abbey in the
architect Dietmar Feichtinger designed the Passerelle mid-17th
Mont-Saint-Michel to replace the old causeway that first century
connected the island to the mainland. For the first time
in 134 years, the Mont becomes an island again in 2015.

Chapelle St-Aubert
Built on the rock in the 15th
century, the chapel is dedicated
to St Aubert, who founded
Mont-St-Michel in AD 708.

















. Ramparts
The town was fortified during the
Hundred Years’ War, to protect it
from attack by the English.
Entrance

1211–1228 1434 Final 1877–1879 The dyke is built 1895–1897 The tower, spire
966 A Gothic attack by 1789 During the and statue of St Michael
Benedictine buildings of the English. Revolution, the mount is Archangel are added
abbey is La Merveille Ramparts used as a prison for 1922 Church
founded are completed are built political dissidents services resume
700 1000 1300 1600 1900 2015
1516 The abbey 1874 Upkeep of the 1969
1017 Work starts
on the building of 1067–1070 declines mount is entrusted Benedictine 2015 Mont-St-
the abbey Mont-St-Michel is depicted to Monuments monks return Michel becomes
708 St Aubert in the Bayeux Tapestry Historiques to the mount an island again
builds an oratory 2001 The Benedictine
on Mont-Tombe Detail of the Bayeux Tapestry monks leave once more
For hotels and restaurants see pp224–5 and pp234–5


078-079_EW_Brittany.indd 78 11/3/16 1:02 PM

MONT-ST-MICHEL  79


VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Road map F1 n Corps de Garde
des Bourgeois, at entrance to
Mont-St-Michel (02) 33 60 14 30.
Abbey: Tel (02) 33 89 80 00.
Open May–Aug: 9am–7pm daily;
Sep–Apr: 9:30am–6pm daily.
Closed 1 Jan, 1 May, 25 Dec.
& 5 noon Tue–Sat, 11:15am
Sun. 8 ∑ abbaye-mont-saint-
Tides in Baie de Mont St-Michel michel.fr, ot-montsaintmichel.
The bay is washed by unusually long tides, which flow com
unimpeded over the smooth quicksand. The strong
spring tides can move at speeds of up to 10 kmh (6 mph). Transport
£ as far as Pontorson, then
by bus. h near the dam, then
take a shuttle bus.











Sault Gauthier
This vantage point at the top
of the Grand Degré commands
a magnificent view over the
south side of the bay.

















KEY
1 Tour Gabriel
2 Abbey Enclosed within high
walls, the abbey and its church
occupy an impregnable position.
3 Église St-Pierre
4 Tour de la Liberté . Grande-Rue
The route once taken by pilgrims
5 Tour de l’Arcade, where the as they made their way to the
guards were accommodated. abbey, but now filled with
6 Tour du Roy tourists and souvenir shops,
passes the Église St-Pierre.




078-079_EW_Brittany.indd 79 11/3/16 1:02 PM

80  BRIT T AN Y REGION B Y REGION

Abbaye du Mont-St-Michel

The history of Mont-St-Michel can be read in its
architecture. The abbey, the most prominent building,
has served several different purposes; once attached
to the Benedictine monastery, it later became a prison
for political dissidents. The original abbey church was
built in 1017, on the site of a 10th-century, pre-
Romanesque building, the Notre-Dame-Sous-Terre.
In the early 13th century, La Merveille, an imposing
three-storey building, was added to the north side
of the church, built directly onto the rockface.


. Abbey Church
Monks’ Refectory Only four of the original seven
This large room is bays in the nave survive. The
bathed in soft light other three collapsed in 1776.
entering through
windows in the end
wall and through
high, narrow niches.


Salle des
Chevaliers
The vaulting
and capitals in
the Knight’s Hall
are in a pure
Gothic style.





Upper Level
(Church)

Intermediate
Level
KEY
1 Crypte Notre-Dame-des-
Trente-Cierges (Our Lady of the Lower
Thirty Candles) is one of two crypts Level
beneath the transept.
2 La Merveille This masterpiece
of Gothic architecture took
16 years to complete.
3 Crypte St-Martin, a barrel-
vaulted chapel, gives an idea of the
austere appearance of the original
abbey church. . Cloisters
4 The abbatial buildings, near With slender
the square in front of the church, pudding-stone
allowed the abbot to entertain columns in an off-
important visitors in suitable comfort. set alignment, the
Lesser pilgrims were received at cloister is a perfect
the almshouse. example of Anglo-
Norman Gothic.
For hotels and restaurants see pp224–5 and pp234–5


080-081_EW_Brittany.indd 80 11/3/16 12:42 PM

MONT-ST-MICHEL  81


Abbey Guide Church
The three levels on which the abbey is built Cloister Refectory
reflect the hierarchy of the monastery. The Abbey church
monks’ cells were on the upper level, where
the church, cloister and refectory were also
located. Important guests were entertained by
the abbot on the intermediate level. On the lower
level was accommodation for the guards, as well
as for humbler pilgrims. The customary route for
pilgrims was from the almshouse (which is now
a shop), where the poor were given alms, to the
church via the grand staircase. West
terrace
Saut Grand stairway
Gauthier



Intermediate Level
Salle des Chevaliers
Crypte Salle des Hôtes
Notre-Dame-des-
Trente-Cierges
Interior of the Church
The choir, in the
Flamboyant Gothic style
and supported by flying
buttresses, was built
between 1446 and 1521.
Notre-Dame- Abbatial
sous-Terre buildings
Chapelle St-Étienne Crypte
St-Martin


Upper Level
(Church) Lower Level
Cellar Almshouse
Intermediate
Level








Abbey gardens
Gatehouse
Abbatial buildings

Worship today
The small community of Benedictine
monks left the abbey in 2001. Now
the Fraternité de Jérusalem, some of
whose members are shown left,
inhabit the abbey instead.




080-081_EW_Brittany.indd 81 11/3/16 12:42 PM

82  BRIT T AN Y REGION B Y REGION


p Sentier des Douaniers

This stretch of the GR34 (a grande randonnée, or long-distance path) starts
at Cancale, follows the Pointe du Grouin along the edge of cliffs 40 m
(130 ft) high, and ends at Les Daules. On one side is the English Channel Herpin
and on the other a residential area with well-designed modern houses.

5 Port-Mer 6 Pointe du Grouin
Sailboards and From here, there is a view eastwards
dinghies can over the Baie du Mont-St-Michel,
be hired at this and, to the west, a succession of Chenal de la Vieille Riviére Île des Landes
popular marina. beaches and promontories
stretching as far as Cap Fréhel.
7 Chapelle Notre-Dame Pointe de 4 Port-Picain
Overlooking the cove at Le Rochefroide The small sandy
Verger, the chapel is beach here is ideal
dedicated to the Virgin for for sunbathing,
the protection of seamen. Pointe de especially in the
Its walls are covered with la Mouliére Plage du Pointe de morning, when
votive plaques. Saussaye Barbe Brûlée sheltered from
the beach is
Plage du Verger Basse Pointe westerly winds.
Cancale
St-Malo du Chatry
(coast road)
3 Port-Briac
Many inhabitants of
Cancale come to
the pebble beach
to gather winkles.
8 Les Daules
Access to
this former Rimains
Île des
customs house,
built in stone, St-Coulomb,
is free.
St-Malo
Le Chatellier
Cancale Rocher de
Cancale
Pointe du
Hock
Key La Houle
Oyster beds
Roads
Footpath
Dinan,
Mont-
St-Michel
Tips for Walkers
Walk length: 11 km (7 miles). 0 metres 1000
Durations: 3 hours. 0 yards 1000
Departure point: from
Cancale, go to the oyster beds
(parcs à huîtres). Beyond the
Tour à Feux lighthouse, take 2 Pointe de la Chaîne
Rue des Parcs. The Sentier des From here, the Rocher
Douaniers is then signposted. 1 Pointe des de Cancale can be seen,
Stopping-off places: There Crolles rising out of the water.
are cafés, restaurants and The Sentier des Behind it is the Île des
hôtels in Port-Mer. Douaniers starts Rimains, on which a fort
from here. was built in 1788.

For keys to symbols see back flap


082-083_EW_Brittany.indd 82 11/3/16 1:02 PM

ILLE-E T-VILAINE  83

a Cancale
Île des Landes Bird Sanctuary
Road map E1. * 5,350. g n 44
Rue du Port; (02) 99 89 63 72. _ Fêtes Declared a bird sanctuary in 1961, the Île des Landes is separated
des Reposoirs (15 Aug); Les Bordées from the Pointe du Grouin by a narrow channel, the Chenal de la
de Cancale: music festival with a Vieille Rivière. The island attracts the largest colony of cormorants in
maritime theme (1st weekend Oct). Brittany. Other species include the crested cormorant, various species
( Sun. ∑ cancale-tourisme.fr of gull, and pied oystercatchers as well as the Belon sheldrake, the
only sea duck native to Brittany. From
This centre of oyster-farming August through to October, puffins,
has kept its distinctive identity. gannets and other sea birds flock here.
The island is inaccessible to the general
The flat oysters (belons) that are public, but visitors can observe the
farmed here today are famed birds with binoculars from the Pointe
for their large size. Along du Grouin, or join one of the interesting
the harbour at La Houle, nature walks on the Pointe organized Pied oystercatchers on the Île
fishermen’s houses have been by Bretagne Vivante (Living Brittany). des Landes
converted into restaurants,
cafés and shops.
When the cod-fishing g La Cancalaise protection. Soil erosion, the
industry collapsed in the 19th Boat trips. Tel (02) 99 89 77 87. degradation of the chalky
century, Cancale’s fishermen Open Apr–Oct: call for times. & grassland and damage to
turned to oyster-farming, using ∑ lacancalaise.org protected species of plants
their boats – the bisquines – to by walkers have led the local
harvest the oysters in the bay. council to lay out official paths
Visitors can take a trip out to sea and close off areas in order to
in one of them, La Cancalaise. allow grasses and wildflowers
The Musée des Arts et to recover. This plan of action
Traditions Populaires de has borne fruit, although the
Cancale et sa région, laid out area is still vulnerable.
in a deconsecrated church, the During World War II, German
18th-century Église St-Méen, forces built blockhausen
describes the history of oyster- (blockhouses, or fortified
farming. It also looks at the gun positions) here to defend
lives of the seamen who once the strategically important
sailed to Newfoundland to fish headland. Most have survived
Île des
Rimains for cod and those of their intact, and one has been
wives, whose legendary converted into a visitor centre.
outspokenness goes back to Pointe du Grouin, halfway along the Sentier The greater horseshoe bat,
the time when they would des Douaniers one of the most endangered
Le Chatellier hawk fish on the quayside. animals in France, nests in
Port-Mer, Cancale’s residential s Pointe du Grouin the abandoned blockhouses.
quarter, has an excellent sailing Road map E1. n (02) 99 89 63 72 The lighthouse west of the
school. The terraces above the (Cancale); (02) 98 49 07 18 (Bretagne promontory, built in 1861 and
beach are an inviting place to Vivante). modernized in 1972, was
stop and rest before walking decommissioned in 1999.
around the Pointe du Grouin on The longest promontory
the coast path, the Sentier in the Ille-et-Vilaine, Pointe Environs
des Douaniers. du Grouin is covered with The Chapelle du Verger, which
heath and coastal grassland has been rebuilt on several
E Musée des Arts et Traditions that are typical of Brittany’s occasions, nestles in an inlet
Populaires de Cancale et rocky coast. known as the Cul-du-Chien
sa région Having suffered degradation (Dog’s Bottom Cove). The
Place St-Méen. Tel (02) 99 89 79 32. caused by excessive numbers belfry, at the foot of which
Open mid-Jun–Sep daily. & of visitors, the area, which many votive offerings have
covers 21 ha (52 acres), is been laid, overlooks Cancale’s
now under environmental largest sandy beach.








Flat-bottomed boats are used to harvest the oysters in the bay at Cancale
For hotels and restaurants see pp224–5 and pp234–5


082-083_EW_Brittany.indd 83 11/3/16 1:02 PM

84  BRIT T AN Y REGION B Y REGION

d Street-by-Street: St-Malo’s Walled City

At the end of the 17th century, St-Malo was France’s
foremost port, and shipowners who held a monopoly
over trade with the East Indies amassed huge fortunes.
Following attacks by the English in 1693 and 1695,
plans were made to build a new fortified town, and the
architect was Siméon de Garangeau. From 1708 to 1742,
St-Malo grew rapidly, expanding by over one third.
Tragically, during fighting at the end of World War II, in
August 1944, 80 per cent of the port city was destroyed. The best view of St-Malo, from Dinard
It was, however, rebuilt in a style in keeping with its LO U I S
historic character, using granite-clad concrete.
Grande Porte
Immediately after the war, some buildings were A niche inside the gate contains
reconstructed using their original stones. a 15th-century statue of Notre- S A I N T D E
Dame-de-Bon-Secours.
Q UA I RUE
Porte St-Vincent
The main entrance to the Cathédrale CO R D I E R S
city is through a gateway St-Vincent
in the walls, which are 7 m
(23 ft) thick. From the D E S
gateway, a stairway leads Q UA I S A I N T R U E
PLACE
up to the rampart walk. V I N C E N T DU POIDS
DU ROI
E S P L A N A D E R . D E L’ O R M E
S A I N T G R A N D E R U E
V I N C E N T
PORCON DE
The castle’s four C H ÂT E AU B R I A N D R U E S A I N T V I N C E N T LA BARBINAIS RUE BROUSSAIS
towers were built R U E
by François II of
Brittany and his BARBE CERF
daughter, Anne. DU P L AC E
P L AC E RUE SAINT THOMAS RUE DU COLLEGE CHÂTILLON
J. D E
SAINTE
CORNE
FRÉRES
LAMENNAIS
RUE CHATEAUBRIAND
RUE R. R. DU PELICOT RUE TOUILLER RUE DES CHAMPS PLACE DES
L’ É V E N TA I L
PLACE VAUBAN
R. DE LA VICTOIRE
Rue du Pélicot RUE DU CHATEAU GAILLARD







. Château Église St-Benoît PLAGE MALO
Built by Jean V, Duke of The doorway of the former
Brittany, and enlarged by Anne Église St-Benoît was built by the
of Brittany, the castle now houses architect Jean Poulier in 1705, to a
the local council offices and the design by Garangeau. It consists
Musée d’Histoire de St-Malo. of a pair of granite columns
The museum is in the castle’s keep. supporting a curved pediment.
For hotels and restaurants see pp224–5 and pp234–5


084-085_EW_Brittany.indd 84 11/3/16 1:02 PM

ST-M AL O  85


. Hôtel d’Asfeld VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
This mansion, once the residence of
Auguste Magon de La Lande, head of Practical Information
the French East India Company in Road map E1.* 49,100.
1715, is fronted by a courtyard and a n Esplanade St-Vincent; 0825
gateway. It was used as a prison during 135 200. ( Tue & Fri in the old
the Revolution. Chateaubriand’s town. _ Étonnants Voyageurs
mother was incarcerated here. (Book Fair, Whitsun); Folklore du
Monde (Jul); Festival de Musique
Sacrée (Jul–mid-Aug); Route du
Rock (mid-Aug), Quai des Bulles
(Oct/Nov); Route du Rhum (trans-
atlantic race; Nov, every four years
LO U I S C H A R T R E S R U E Hôtel André-Désilles from 2018). ∑ saint-malo-
tourisme.com
Q U A I D E D I N A N
S A I N T D E R U E D ’A S F E L D FEYDEAU D ’O R L É A N S Porte de Dinan Transport
R U E
k Dinard-Pleurtuit-St-Malo.
g Brittany ferries: 08 25 82 88 28.
D E
R U E £ Avenue Anita Conti
RUE R U E F O S S E TO U LU S E
CO R D I E R S D E S R U E D I N A N RUE SAINT PHILIPPE
D E S R U E D E S L A V I E U X D E B O R E L
R U E R E M PA R T S D E
R U E D E F O RGUERS TO U LO U S E Bastion St-Philippe
R U E R . VAU R U E G U Y LO U V E L
P L A C E R U E D ’ E S T É E S
B R E V E T
R . D E L’ O R M E
PORCON DE RUE BROUSSAIS R U E S A I N T S AU V E U R P L AG E D U M Ô L E
LA BARBINAIS RUE DE LA PIE QUI BOIT


P L AC E
J. D E
CHÂTILLON Église St-Sauveur
Completed in 1743 by the
PLACE DES RUE DU BOYER RUE DE LA CROSSE architect Michel Marion to plans
FRÉRES
by Garangeau, the church is now
LAMENNAIS
used as a venue for temporary
exhibitions. The west front, which
faces the street, is plain to the point
P L A C E D U B O N S E C O U R S
of being austere.
Statue of Jacques Cartier
RUE TOUILLER RUE DES CHAMPS



. Ramparts
Many stages of the city’s 0 metres 100
history can be seen from the 0 yards 100
rampart walk. Among the
oldest parts are the Cavalier
des Champs-Vauverts and Key
the Tour Bidouane, built
around the late 16th-century Suggested route
arsenal that predates the
17th-century fortified town.




084-085_EW_Brittany.indd 85 11/3/16 1:02 PM

86  BRIT T AN Y REGION B Y REGION

Exploring St-Malo Garangeau

Throughout its history, this port city, sheltered from battering The civil and naval architect
winds by its ramparts, has maintained a fierce spirit of Siméon de Garangeau (1647–
independence. This is reflected in the motto “Foremost a 1741) had worked in Marseille
and in Brest before he took
native of St-Malo, a Breton perhaps, and a Frenchman last”. charge of building St-Malo’s
Its indomitable seamen have sailed the high seas in search of fortifications. The great military
undiscovered lands and of exotic goods that could be traded engineer Vauban considered
for a high return in Europe. Both privateers and shipowners that the coastal fort of La
Conchée, which Garangeau
made their fortunes here, and, in the 17th and 18th centuries, built, was the best building in
the kings of France as well as St-Malo itself also profited France. As a civil architect,
handsomely. The private residences and malouinières (grand Garangeau was also responsible
country residences) that can be seen today are proof of this for much of St-Malo’s unique
architectural character.
fabulous success.

An Eventful independent, albeit
History shortlived, republic in
As early as 1308, the defiance of Henri IV’s
inhabitants of St-Malo showed royal authority. By
their mettle by establishing the end of the 15th
the first free town in century, having grown
Brittany, and, in 1395, prosperous through
rebelling against the Duke trade and from fishing
of Brittany, they obtained off Newfoundland,
leave to answer only St-Malo had become a
to Charles VI, king of port of international
France. St-Malo was then renown. From 1698 to Fortifications of St-Malo
granted the status of an Cathedral 1720, cargo ships
independent port, and gargoyle sailing from St-Malo
for the next 300 years its exported linen cloth, construction and identifying
economic success was assured. lace and other everyday goods the most important buildings. A
In 1415, Jean V, Duke of Brittany, to America, returning laden stairway leads up to the rampart
attempted to regain authority with gold and precious stones. walk, which offers a wide view of
over St-Malo and began to The immensely rich shipowners the city. Further north, in front of
build the castle here. In 1436, the were “invited” to lend the king Place du Poids-du-Roi, is Grande
English described the seamen half of the cargo brought back Porte, a 15th-century gateway
of St-Malo in these terms: “The by their ships, thus saving France with machicolated towers.
people of St-Malo are the from bankruptcy. Cathédrale St-Vincent, on
greatest thieves …that Place de Châtillon, was begun in
ever sailed the seas… P St-Malo’s Walled City the 12th century and completed
These pilferers who sail The main entrance into the in the 18th. Grimacing gargoyles
under false colours … walled city of St-Malo is Porte stare down from the heights of
have no respect for St-Vincent, built in 1709 and the outer walls. Inside, the high,
their dukes.” Neither standing on its northeastern delicate Gothic choir contrasts
did they have respect side. Inside the pedestrians’ with the nave, in the Angevin
for France, as, in 1590, entrance is a map of the city Romanesque style. It is an
they formed an showing the main stages in its example of the influence of













The Quai St-Louis and Quai St-Vincent, on the western side of St-Malo
For hotels and restaurants see pp224–5 and pp234–5


086-087_EW_Brittany.indd 86 11/3/16 1:02 PM

ST-M AL O  87


Anglo-Norman architecture St-Malo’s original inhabitant,
on the design of churches in chose this spot for his hermitage.
northern Brittany. The great The rampart walk on the
rose window is filled with eastern side of the walled city,
modern, brightly coloured near Porte de Dinan, offers
glass. The tomb of Jacques a bird’s-eye view of several
Cartier, the 16th-century 18th-century shipowners’
explorer from St-Malo, can be houses that either escaped war
seen in the north chapel. damage or were reconstructed.
At No. 3 Cour de la Houssaye, Built in a restrained and uniform
near Rue Chateaubriand, is the style, they have an aristocratic
Maison de la Duchesse Anne (see elegance, and reflect both the
p48). With its outer tower, it is a personal wealth and social
typical example of a late Medieval standing of their owners, who
urban manor house. Destroyed used them as a base for trading
during World War II, it was rebuilt activities. The ramparts also
on the basis of old engravings. afford fine views as far as Dinard Maison de la Duchesse Anne, a typical
Rue du Pélicot, which runs and the Côte d’Emeraude. urban manor house
across Rue Chateaubriand, has
some unusual “glass houses” – P Hôtel Magon-d’Asfeld La Lande, one of the wealthiest
early 16th-century wooden Demeure de Corsaire shipowners in St-Malo and the
houses with glazed galleries. At 5 Rue d’Asfeld. Tel (02) 99 56 09 40. head of the French East India
the end of Rue Mac-Law stands 8 Jul–Aug: Mon–Sat, Sun pm; Feb– Company in 1715.
the Chapelle St-Aaron (1621), Jun & Sep–Nov: Tue–Sun (only guided With guided tours, it offers
perched on the summit of the tour at 3pm). Closed Dec–Jan. & the opportunity to see inside
rock and facing the law courts. This fine building was once the one of these aristocratic houses,
The evangelizing monk Aaron, residence of Auguste Magon de with their vaulted cellars.
St-Malo City Centre Key
1 St-Malo Walled City See pp84–5
2 Château
3 Fort National Fort National Paramé
4 St-Servan Grande Plage CANCALE
5 Musée du Long Cours Château C H A US S ÉE D U S IL LO N ROTHÉNEUF
Cap-Hornier
6 Corniche d’Alet Q UAI DU D UGUAY- TRO U IN
Bassin
7 Paramé Église St-Benoît Duguay-Trouin
8 Grand Aquarium Cathédrale St-Vincent
Walled City AVENUE LOUI S MA R TIN BD DE LA RÉPUBLIQUE
Église St-Sauveur QUAI ST LOUIS Gare
SNCF
Hôtel
Magon-d’Asfeld Gare
QUAI DE DINAN Bassin CHAUSSÉE DES CORSAIRES Bassin Routière
de
Quai
Dinan Vauban Jaques-Cartier
Terminal
Ferry du Naye BOULEVARD DES TALARDS
0 metres 400 AVE FRANKLIN ROOSEVELT
Bassin Bouvet
0 yards 400 Q U AI DE TRICHET
Port de Q U AI DU VAL CANCALE
Plaisance RUE DAUPHINE RU E C L É M E N C E AU Grand
RENNES
D I G U E
Fort R U E D E S H A U T S - S A B LO N S RU E GEORGE V DINARD Aquarium
Corniche MONTRÉ
RUE DE LA
d'Alet RUE DE LA CITÉ ST-SERVAN
R UE L E P O ME L L EC
QUAI SÉBASTOPOL QUAI SOLIDOR
Port
Solidor RUE J. J U GAN
RU E JE A N X XI I I
Musée du Long
Cours Cap-Hornier
For keys to symbols see back flap
086-087_EW_Brittany.indd 87 11/3/16 1:02 PM

88  BRIT T AN Y REGION B Y REGION


+ Château
Place Chateaubriand, in the Citadel. Lee Miller’s Wartime Scoop
Built in the 15th and 16th In October 1944, an eight-page report on the siege of St-Malo
centuries, the castle was used appeared in the pages of American Vogue. The report and
by Jean V, Duke of Brittany accompanying photographs were by-lined Lee Miller, Man Ray’s
(1399–1442), mainly as a base companion, a friend of Paul Éluard and Pablo Picasso, and a
from which to keep watch over model and fashion photographer. The only journalist in the city
the infamously rebellious during the bombings, she
people of St-Malo. Jean’s recorded the destruction of
daughter Anne (see pp48–9), St-Malo. “My heel sank into
who became queen of France a disembodied hand, and I
through her marriage to Charles cursed the Germans for the
VIII, enlarged the castle, with the horrible destruction that
same purpose in mind. Knowing they had inflicted on this
the dissenting character of the once-splendid city,” she
townspeople, she had these wrote at the time. Antony
Penrose, Lee Miller’s son
words engraved in the wall of a and the author of her
tower in the castle’s east wing: biography, relates that the
“Quic en groigne, ainsi sera, car tel photographs taken by his
est mon plaisir” (Thus will it be, mother were such a scoop
whoever complains, for this is that they were confiscated
my will.) The people of St-Malo by the British censors: it
defiantly christened the castle was during the liberation
Quic-en-Groigne. of St-Malo that napalm
Place Chateaubriand in 1944 had first been used.
E Musée d’Histoire de
St-Malo
In the castle keep. Tel (02) 99 40 71 57. + Fort du Petit-Bé + Fort National
Open Apr–Sep: daily; Nov–Mar: Tue– Tel 06 08 27 51 20. Open depends on Northeast of the castle. Tel (06) 72 46
Sun. Closed public holidays. & the weather; phone ahead. & 8 66 26. Accessible on foot at low tide.
This museum, dedicated to the Facing the Bidouane Tower When the French flag flies over the fort,
history of St-Malo, occupies and Champs-Vauverts gate, it is open to the public. 8 Jun–Sep:
the keep, which stands at the this fort, which was designed Wed–Mon (mid-Jul–mid-Aug: daily. &
entrance to the castle. With by Vauban (see p173) in the In the 18th century, five coastal
granite walls and high chimney- 17th century, is accessible forts – La Varde, Le Petit-Bé, La
pieces, it provides a sumptuous either by foot at low tide or Conchée, Harbour and the Fort
setting for the exhibits. by boat. It was owned by the National – defended the Baie
The collection consists of French army until 1885, then de St-Malo. The Fort National
paintings, sculpture, figure- decommissioned and restored was designed by the military
heads, models of ships and to the city of Saint-Malo. It engineer Vauban in 1689. It was
topographical models illustra ting was classified as a historic built by Garangeau (see p86) on
the city’s history and its seafaring monument in 1921. the Rocher de l’Islet, where
traditions. Prominent citizens, Reproductions of 17th- and criminals were once executed.
such as the corsair Robert Surcouf, 18th-century military plans From here, there is a splendid
the explorer Jacques Cartier, and illustrate the history of the view of the ramparts, the Rance
men of letters Chateaubriand defence of St-Malo. An ancient estuary and the Îles Chausey.
(see p75) and Lamennais (see mareographe, used to calcu-
p31) are also honoured. late the tides, is also on display. P St-Servan
This residential district to the
south of the walled city of
St-Malo contains some fine
houses. Numerous sailing ships
are berthed in the Les Bas-
Sablons harbour. From here, a
road leads to Alet.
E Musée du Long Cours
Cap-Hornier
In the Tour Solidor. Tel (02) 99 40 71
58. Open Apr–Sep: daily; Nov–Mar:
Tue–Sun. Closed public holidays. &
The tower now houses a
museum devoted to those who,
The Fort National, designed by Vauban and built by Garangeau following trade routes, sailed
For hotels and restaurants see pp224–5 and pp234–5


088-089_EW_Brittany.indd 88 11/3/16 1:02 PM

ST-M AL O  89


beaches, the Plage du Sillon } Carved Rocks
and Plage Roche bonne, stretch Chemin des Rochers-Sculptés. From
for 4 km (2 miles). the walled city of St-Malo, take the
track in the direction of Rothéneuf.
Rothéneuf Tel (02) 99 56 23 95. Open Jun–Sep:
Northeast of Paramé, via the D201. daily; Oct–May: Thu–Tue. &
A long-distance footpath Between 1870 and 1895, the
(GR34) follows the coast to Abbé Fourré, a partly para lysed
Rothéneuf from Pointe de la country priest, produced a
Varde, from where the view masterpiece of naive art, carving
stretches from the Baie de about 300 figures – a fantastic
St-Malo right round to Cap assemblage of grima cing
Notre-Dame-des-Flots, an oratory on the Fréhel (see p113). This is a quiet monsters, animals and humans –
cliffs near Rothéneuf village with two beaches, one out of the granite rockface.
of which lines a cove. From here, a path leads to the
round Cape Horn in the 19th and Oratoire Notre-Dame-des-Flots,
20th centuries. Items on display  Grand Aquarium in a converted coastguard’s
include navi gational instruments, La Ville-Jouan, Avenue du Général- house. The simplicity of this
models of ships, sails, sperm Patton. Tel (02) 99 21 19 00. chapel, on the cliff edge, gives
whales’ teeth and canoe paddles Open daily. Closed Jan, 2 weeks the spot a special atmosphere.
from New Caledonia. The tower, in Nov. &
which is some 30 m (33 ft) high, This fascinating aquarium offers
was built on the orders of Jean V, the opportunity to view almost
Duke of Brittany, between 1364 500 different species of cold-
and 1382. It commands a fine water and warm-water marine
view of the estuary. life. The route through the
aquarium corresponds to that
} Corniche d’Alet taken by the great navigators,
Alet, inhabited by Celts in 80–70 from the North Atlantic to the
BC, was settled before St-Malo Caribbean Sea. With a circular
was founded. Around 270, the tank containing sharks, a tropical One of the figures carved out of the
peninsula was enclosed by walls room, tanks where visitors can living rock by the Abbé Fourré
and then, in about 350, a touch the fish, and the recon-
castellum (small fort) was built struction of the wreck of a E Musée Jacques-Cartier
here, on a site now covered by galleon, the aquarium has much Manoir du Limoëlou. Accessible via
the gardens of the Château to interest people of all ages. Rue David-Mac-Donald-Stewart.
de Solidor. In about 380, Alet Tel (02) 99 40 97 73. Open Jul–Aug:
became the capital of the } Havre du Lupin daily; Sep–Jun: Mon–Sat. 8
Coriosolites, a Gaulish tribe On the road north out of Rothéneuf. The museum is housed in a
inhabiting what is now the Also known as Havre de farmstead built in the 15th and
Côtes d’Armor. In the mid-12th Rothéneuf, this cove is a 16th centuries and enlarged in
century, the see of St-Malo was saltwater lake at high tide the 19th century. It is devoted to
transferred to Alet, causing and an expanse of sand at the explorer Jacques Cartier, who
the city to decline. The walls, low tide. It is connected to the discovered Canada in 1534 and
cathedral and castle were sea by a 300-m (985-ft) wide lived here between 1541 and
razed on the orders of St Louis, channel running between the 1557. There is also an excellent
although a few ruins can still coast and a peninsula, the section illustrating daily life in the
be seen. Presqu’île Benard. region during the 16th century.
The coast walk offers a
breathtaking view of the walled
city, the Île du Petit-Bé and Île du
Grand-Bé, where Chateaubriand
was laid to rest.
Paramé
On the road north out of St-Malo.
Paramé and Rothéneuf
have formed part of St-Malo
since 1967. The coastal
resort of Paramé was
established at the end of
the 19th century, when
developers built the dyke
and holiday villas here. Two The Manoir de Limoëlou, housing the Musée Jacques-Cartier




088-089_EW_Brittany.indd 89 11/3/16 1:02 PM

90  BRIT T AN Y REGION B Y REGION


Pierre Manoli for more than
25 years – is regarded as one of
Brittany’s main art centres. Over
300 of his works are displayed
here, in the traditional granite
buildings and throughout the
grounds. Among Manoli’s major
works are La grande voile at the
Gare Montparnasse in Paris, and
the altar and liturgical furniture
at the Cathédrale St-Corentin in
Quimper (see pp168–9).
On the right bank of the
Rance is the picturesque village
of St Sauliac, a fishing port
many of whose houses date
from the 14th and 15th cent-
St Sauliac, Rance Valley uries. The 13th-century church
is one of the few examples of an
f Rance Valley A tidal power station (usine enclos paroissial (parish close) in
marémotrice) is located on the this part of Brittany. Many lovely
Road map E1. 2.5 km (3 miles) south
of St-Malo via the N137. £ @ bridge over the Rance estuary, walks start from here, including
n 2 Boulevard Féart, Dinard; (02) 99 on the Dinard side. Harnessing one that leads to the ancient
46 94 12. the energy of the tides, which Moulin de Beauchet, one of the
are among the strongest in the oldest tide mills in the region.
The Rance river, which runs world here, the power station
for 25 km (16 miles) from generates enough electricity P Atelier Manoli
Dinan to the coast, was once a to supply a town of 250,000 9 Rue du Suet. Tel (02) 99 88 55 53.
busy trading route. Traditional inhabitants for a year, or a Open May–mid-Sep: daily; mid-Feb–
chalands (barges) transported quarter of what a nuclear power Apr & mid-Sep–Dec: Wed–Mon, pm
cereal and wood from Dinan station would produce. It has no only. Closed Jan–mid-Feb. &
to St-Malo; on the return trip negative environmental impact. ∑ manoli.org
they were charged with coal. Built on the principle of tidal mills,
Since the early 19th century, it was inaugurated in 1966, after
tourists have out numbered 25 years’ research and six years’
the barges, and the river is building work. It consists of a
navigated by pleasure boats dam, a lock and an embankment,
steering past the tidal mills, which contains the power
fishermen’s houses, mariners’ station and a discovery centre.
chapels and fortifi cations that Just south of the dam, Atelier
line the banks. Manoli – home to sculptor

Malouinières
Second residences of the wealthy shipowners of St-Malo,
malouinières were built in the 17th and 18th centuries, a time
when this port city of privateers was expanding. Their design
being influenced by military
architecture, malouinières Dinard, a fashionable and elegant resort
typically have simple outlines, since the 19th century
harmonious proportions and a
certain austerity. Further g Dinard
characteristics are a steeply
pitched roof and high Road map E1. * 11,000. k Dinard-
chimneys with lead or Pleurtuit-St-Malo; (02) 99 46 18 46.
terracotta stacks, emblems of £ @ n 2 Boulevard Féart; 0821
the new élite. Bands of dressed 235 500. ( Tue, Fri & Sat.
Chausey granite surround _ International Festival de Musique
window frames and mark the Classique (Aug); Festival du Film
angles of the walls. The Britannique (end Sep–beginning Oct).
emphasis on symmetry and ∑ dinardtourisme.com
ordered perspective is in
Part of the façade of a malouinière in keeping with the Neo-Classical At the beginning of the 19th
Puits-Sauvage style of the period. century, Dinard was no more
than a small fishing village. That
For hotels and restaurants see pp224–5 and pp234–5


090-091_EW_Brittany.indd 90 11/3/16 1:02 PM

ILLE-E T-VILAINE  91


was before a small group of
British and Americans created
the fashion for com fortable
mansions in coastal resorts.
In 1873, the Lebanese arist-
ocrat Joseph Rochaïd Dahda
purchased land on which to
build. English-style manor
houses then appeared, along
with Louis XIII-style chateaux,
colonial houses and mock-
Breton villas. British and Euro-
pean aristocrats flocked to
Dinard’s palatial residences.
The attraction, albeit slightly
antiquated, is still alive today,
and the smart young set con-
tinues to come here. Walks in
either direction along the
coast pass ostentatious villas
typical of Dinard in its fashion-
able heyday. The Promenade The harbour at St-Briac, depicted by many 19th-century painters
de la Malouine leads to the
west, while the Promenade Domaine de Montmarin connected to the mainland
Robert-Surcouf leads east- D114, Le Montmarin. Tel (02) 99 88 58 by a natural bridge span ning
wards to the Pointe du 79. Open Apr–Oct: Sun–Fri pm. & a chasm known as the Trou
Moulinet, from where there du Chat (Cat’s Hole).
is a spectacular view.
h St-Lunaire
Environs Road map E1. 2 km (1 mile) west of j St-Briac
Located at Pleurtuit, 7 km Dinard, via the D786. * 2,200. £ Road map E1. 5 km (3 miles)
(4 miles) south of Dinard, is n Blvd Générale de Gaulle; (02) 99 southwest of Dinard, via the D786. *
the Domaine de Montmarin. 46 31 09. ∑ saint-lunaire.com 1,825. n £ 49 Grande-Rue; (02) 99
This is a fine example of a 88 32 47. ∑ tourisme-saint-briac.fr
malounière (sea captain’s This small resort, which, like
manor house), and the only Dinard, came into being at Like Pont-Aven, in Finistère, this
one to be found on the left the end of the 19th century, former fishing village, located
bank of the Rance. It was built is named after an Irish monk who on the right bank of the Frémur,
in 1760 by the Magons, an settled here in the 6th century. attracted many painters at the
important ship-owning family. The 11th-century church is end of the 19th century, among
Although the house isn’t open one of the oldest in Brittany. them Auguste Renoir, Henri
to the public, the gardens It contains the tomb of St Rivière, Émile Bernard and Paul
are well worth visiting. There Lunaire, with a 14th- century Signac. The Chemin des Peintres
is a series of terraces which recumbent figure. is a path that leads out of the
slope down to the river’s edge, Pointe du Décollé, north village where various artists set
a formal French garden, a of St-Lunaire, is worth the up their easels to paint the
romantic garden planted with detour for the panorama of landscape. There are also two
rare species, and a vast the Côte d’Émeraude that it other marked trails: Chemin
collection of hydrangeas. commands. The point is des Moulins, which takes you
along the Frémur River, and the
Promenade du Vieux St-Briac.
A map in English can be found
in the tourist office.
The stained-glass windows
in the 19th-century church
show scenes from the life of
St Briac, who, it is said, looked
after the insane. Members of
the Habsburg and Hohen-
zollern families used to visit.
The Grand Duke of Russia
himself, pretender to the
Russian throne, would come
The pleasingly simple 11th-century church in St-Lunaire to stay here too.




090-091_EW_Brittany.indd 91 11/3/16 1:02 PM

092-093_EW_Brittany.indd 92 11/3/16 1:02 PM

BRIT T AN Y REGION B Y REGION  93

CÔTES D’ARMOR


It is on the Côtes d’Armor that the most timeless aspects
of Brittany are preserved. While jewel-like churches and
chapels hidden in remote hamlets express a profound piety,
a wealth of fine buildings stands as ample proof of material
riches derived from the linen trade. Here, also, are gentle landscapes
and thriving crops, as well as fishing harbours and pirates’ nests that
are now picturesque holiday resorts.


Majestic Cap Fréhel, on the Côte sail for Iceland: 2,000 of Paimpol’s
d’Émeraude, marks the eastern boundary fishermen never returned.
of the Côtes d’Armor, where pink lime­ For nature­lovers, the Île de Bréhat,
stone cliffs and windswept heath land which has an almost Mediterranean
create a striking land scape, and the coast microclimate, offers the opportunity to
is lined with beaches. enjoy scenic walks, while the Sept­Îles
The hinterland south of St­Brieuc is the archipelago is home to 15 species of
border between the Celtic, western part sea birds. On the Côte de Granit Rose,
of Brittany and Lower Brittany. Lamballe, outcrops of warm­toned granite eroded
east of St­Brieuc, marks a later boundary. by wind and rain create a striking sight.
It was once the capital of the duchy of With their attractive settings and many
Penthièvre, enemy of the house of beaches, resorts such as Perros­Guirec and
Brittany, and several fortresses were Trégastel throng with holiday­makers
built near here. during the summer. Inland, the heaths
While the historic towns of Quintin and of the Trégor give way to the fields and
Moncontour owe their rich heritage to the wooded valleys of ancient Argoat, whose
manufacture of linen cloth in the 17th and churches and calvaries reflect centuries
18th centuries, Paimpol, on the Côte du of religious faith. Tréguier, with a delicately
Goëlo, looks back to an illustrious past, ornamented Gothic cathedral, is one of
when courageous sea men left from here to the finest cities in Brittany.























Aerial view of sea mist on Brehat in the Côtes d’Armor
Overview of the old town of Dinan in the Côtes d’Armor



092-093_EW_Brittany.indd 93 11/3/16 1:02 PM

94  BRIT T AN Y REGION B Y REGION

Exploring the Côtes d’Armor

The name “Côtes d’Armor”, meaning “coasts of the sea country”,
comes from the area’s deeply indented coastline formed by rias
(ancient river valleys flooded by the sea). Jutting headlands,
like the Trégor, alternate with wide inlets, such as
the Baie de St-Brieuc. The highest point of
the Côtes d’Armor are the Monts Les ÎLE DE
d’Arrée and the heathland of Le Sept-Îles PLOUGRESCANT BRÉHAT
Méné, in the south. Coastal PLOUMANAC’H PORT- SILLON DE
TALBERT
resorts such as Val-André, TRÉGASTEL- BLANC Pte de
PLAGE
St-Cast and Perros-Guirec are Île Grande PERROS- TRÉGUIER l'Arcouest
GUIREC
the region’s main tourist PLEUMEUR- Lézardrieux PAIMPOL
spots, and fishing harbours TRÉBEURDEN BODOU LA ROCHE-
and islands, particularly the LANNION DERRIEN Château de Plouézec
Sept-Îles archipelago and Île Le Yaudet la Roche-Jagu
Cote de PLOUBEZRE
de Bréhat, are popular with Granit Rose Confort Pontrieux CHAPELLE DE Plouha CAP FRÉHEL Cote d'Emeraude
KERMARIA-
holiday-makers. Inland from PLESTIN-LES- Château Runan AN-ISKUIT ST-QUAY-PORTRIEUX SABLES-D'OR- FORT LA LATTE
de Tonquédec
GRÈVES
the coast are picturesque Château de Rosanbo Bégard Baie de Cap d’Erquy LES-PINS ST-CAST-
medieval towns such as Dinan, Lanvellec Plouaret Lanvollon Étables St-Brieuc Erquy LE GUILDO Dinard,
Quintin and Moncontour, and Menez-Bré GUINGAMP Binic Pte de Pléneuf Matignon St-Malo
many impressive religious Morlaix, Châtelaudren Pordic Le Val-André Château de Bien-Assis Ploubalay
buildings, such as Tréguier’s Brest Loguivy- BELLE-ISLE- PLÉNEUF-
VAL-ANDRÉ
great Gothic cathedral. Plougras EN-TERRE Plouagat Plancoët
Loc-Envel ST-BRIEUC Hillion
Bourbriac Pléven
St Pever LAMBALLE Château de la DINAN
Calanhel BULAT- CÔTES D’ARMOR Hunaudaye
PESTIVIEN Plélan
Sullé QUINTIN Jugon-les-Lacs
Callac Évran
Blavet St Gilles- Ploeuc MONCONTOUR
Pligeaux
Gorges du Arguenon
Corong Corlay Broons
Collinée Caulnes
Carhaix-
Plouguer Maël- Uzel Plouguenast
Carhaix GORGES DE
Quimper DAOULAS Rance Rennes
MÛR-DE-
Rostrenen Gouarec BRETAGNE
Cloister of the Cathédrale St-Tugdual, Tréguier LAC DE GUERLÉDAN Merdrignac
FORÊT DE QUÉNÉCAN Loudéac
La Chèze
Ploërmel
La Trinité-
Pontivy
Porhoët
Sights at a Glance
1 Mûr-de-Bretagne w Trégastel-Plage g Quintin
2 Lac de Guerlédan and e Ploumanac’h h Moncontour
Forêt de Quénécan r Perros-Guirec j Lamballe
3 Gorges de Daoulas t La Roche-Derrien k Pléneuf-Val-André
4 Guingamp y Port-Blanc l Sables-d’Or-les-Pins
5 Bulat-Pestivien u Plougrescant z Cap Fréhel
6 Belle-Isle-en-Terre i Sillon de Talbert x Fort La Latte
7 Plestin-les-Grèves p Paimpol c St-Cast-Le-Guildo
8 Ploubezre a Tréguier v Dinan pp114–17
9 Lannion s Chapelle Kermaria-an-Iskuit
0 Trébeurden d St-Quay-Portrieux Tour
q Pleumeur-Bodou f St-Brieuc pp108–9 o Île de Bréhat
For hotels and restaurants see pp225–6 and pp235–7
094-095_EW_Brittany.indd 94 11/3/16 1:02 PM

C Ô TES D ’ ARMOR  95

Getting Around
The N12, a major road, runs through
the heart of the Côtes d’Armor.
St-Brieuc is the hub of the region’s
road network. From here, the D786
runs along the Côte de Granit Rose to
Plestin, and, heading southwards, the
D790 and D700 link St-Brieuc with
Les ÎLE DE the heart of the region. From Rennes,
Sept-Îles BRÉHAT the N12 leads to Montauban and the
PLOUGRESCANT
PLOUMANAC’H PORT- SILLON DE N164 to Loudéac, Mûr-de-Bretagne,
TRÉGASTEL- BLANC TALBERT Pte de Gouarec and Rostrenen. There is
PLAGE PERROS- TRÉGUIER l'Arcouest a bus service from St-Brieuc to
Île Grande GUIREC Vannes every two hours. From
PLEUMEUR- Lézardrieux PAIMPOL Guingamp, a train service runs
TRÉBEURDEN BODOU LA ROCHE- three times a day to Paimpol. The coast path between Perros-Guirec and Ploumanac’h
LANNION DERRIEN Château de Plouézec
Le Yaudet la Roche-Jagu
Cote de PLOUBEZRE Pontrieux CAP FRÉHEL
Granit Rose Confort CHAPELLE DE Plouha Cote d'Emeraude
KERMARIA-
PLESTIN-LES- Château Runan AN-ISKUIT ST-QUAY-PORTRIEUX SABLES-D'OR- FORT LA LATTE
de Tonquédec
GRÈVES Bégard LES-PINS
Château de Rosanbo Étables Baie de Cap d’Erquy ST-CAST-
Plouaret Lanvollon St-Brieuc Erquy LE GUILDO
Lanvellec Binic Matignon Dinard,
St-Malo
Menez-Bré GUINGAMP Pte de Pléneuf
Pordic Le Val-André Château de Bien-Assis Ploubalay
Morlaix, Châtelaudren PLÉNEUF-
Brest BELLE-ISLE- VAL-ANDRÉ
Loguivy- EN-TERRE Plouagat
Plougras Plancoët
Loc-Envel ST-BRIEUC Hillion
Bourbriac Pléven
St Pever LAMBALLE Château de la DINAN
Calanhel BULAT- CÔTES D’ARMOR Hunaudaye
PESTIVIEN Plélan
Sullé QUINTIN Jugon-les-Lacs
Callac Évran
Blavet St Gilles- Ploeuc MONCONTOUR
Pligeaux
Gorges du Arguenon
Corong Corlay Broons
Collinée Caulnes
Carhaix-
Plouguer Maël- Uzel Plouguenast
Carhaix GORGES DE
Quimper DAOULAS Rance Rennes
MÛR-DE-
Rostrenen Gouarec BRETAGNE
Merdrignac
LAC DE GUERLÉDAN
FORÊT DE QUÉNÉCAN Loudéac
La Chèze
Ploërmel
La Trinité-
Pontivy
Porhoët
Key
Major road 0 kilometres 20
Secondary road 0 miles 10
Minor road
Main railway
Minor railway Château de la Roche-Jagu,
Regional border near Tréguier
For keys to symbols see back flap


094-095_EW_Brittany.indd 95 11/3/16 1:02 PM

96  BRIT T AN Y REGION B Y REGION

1 Mûr-de-Bretagne it attracts lovers of the great
outdoors. From the banks of the
Road map D2. 17 km (11 miles)
west of Loudéac via the N164. Blavet, there is a stunning view of
* 2,140. n Place de l’Église; (02) 96 the Barrage de Guerlédan, which is
28 51 41. ( Jul–Aug: Fri. not open to the public. The power
∑ lacdeguerledan.com station is open to visitors however.
The Musée de l’Électricité
The town of Mûr-de-Bretagne nearby illustrates the history of
marks the linguistic boundary electricity production, and the
between the Celtic, western ways in which electricity is used. Abbaye Cistercienne de Bon-Repos, founded
part of Brittany and the Southwest of the lake is the in the 12th century and now partly in ruins
eastern part. 3,000-ha (7,400-acre) Forêt de
The menhirs in the vicinity, Quénécan, with beech, spruce R Abbaye Cistercienne de
especially the Neolithic Men hir and pine. Like the Forêt de Bon-Repos
de Botrain and the privately- Paimpont, it is a vestige of the St-Gelven. Via the N164. Tel (02) 96 24
owned Menhir de Boconnaire, Forêt de Brocéliande (see p68). 82 20. Open Mar–Jun & Sep–Nov:
as well as the numerous burial Mon–Fri, Sun pm; Jul–Aug: daily. &
mounds, show that the region E Musée de l’Électricité
was quite densely populated St-Aignan. Tel (02) 97 27 51 39.
in prehistoric times. Open Apr, May & Oct: Mon–Sat; 4 Guingamp
The Chapelle Ste-Suzanne, Jun–Sep: daily. & 8 obligatory Road map C2. * 8,830. n 2 Place au
north of Mûr, in a stand of oak Champ-au-Roy; (02) 96 43 73 89. £
trees, was painted by Corot 3 Gorges de @ St-Brieuc. ( Fri & Sat. _ Bugale
(1796–1875). It was built in Breizh (Breton dancing and Pardon de
1496, although the choir Daoulas Notre-Dame, early Jul); Fête de la
(1694) and belfry (1752–64) Road map D2. 30 km (18.5 miles) St-Loup (mid-Aug). ∑ ot-guingamp.fr
are later. west of Loudéac via the N164.
Standing at a crossroads and
The high escarpments and once fortified, Guingamp is an
2 Lac de Guerlédan the plant life of the Gorges de attractive town with fine timber-
and Forêt de Daoulas give this gorge the framed houses, parti cularly on
Quénécan appearance of an Alpine defile. Place du Centre.
The Basilique Notre-Dame,
The river here has eroded the
Road map D2. 22 km (14 miles) west schist, and the water flows in Rue Notre-Dame, was built in
of Loudéac via the N164. Watersports swiftly between high cliffs that several stages between the 13th
centre: Tel (02) 96 67 12 22. Holiday have a wild beauty. and 16th centuries, and therefore
village: Tel 02) 96 28 50 01. n (02) 96 The partially ruined Abbaye exhibits several dif ferent styles.
28 51 41. _ Fête du Lac (15 Aug). Cistercienne de Bon-Repos, While the columns at the
just off the N164, was built in crossing, which are decorated
Filling a valley that was flooded the 12th century. The monastic with grotesque figures, are
when a hydroelectric dam buildings and cloister both typically Roman esque, both the
was built in 1930, the Lac de date from the 18th century. west door and the triforium are
Guerlédan, just west of Mûr-de- An exhibition hall holds in an accomplished Renaissance
Bretagne, stretches for 12 km contemporary art exhibition. style. The apse is Gothic.
(8 miles). A watersports centre, a There is also a son et lumière The Hôtel de Ville, on Place
camp site and a holiday village, show in early August. Verdun, occupies the former
Monastère des Hospi talières,
dating from the early 17th
century. The Baroque chapel
here contains paintings by the
Pont-Aven group (see p175).
Ramparts on Place du Petit-
Vally are all that remains of the
15th-century castle, which was
demolished in 1626.
Environs
Some 10 km (6 miles) west of
Guingcamp is the holy mountain
of Menez-Bré. From the summit,
there are spectacular views of
the Trégor. The 17th-century
chapel here is dedicated to
The Lac de Guerlédan, offering many watersports activities St Hervé, healer, exorcist and
For hotels and restaurants see pp225–6 and pp235–7


096-097_EW_Brittany.indd 96 11/3/16 1:02 PM

C Ô TES D ’ ARMOR  97


patron of bards. The fountain Environs
300 m (330 yds) from the chapel About one km (0.5 mile) to the
is said to have sprung at his north is a charming parish close
command. Sick children were with a calvary dating from
dipped in its miraculous waters 1550. The Gorges du Corong,
in the hope of curing them. 10 km (6 miles) south of Bulat-
Châtelaudren, 13 km (8 miles) Pestivien, are wreathed in ferns
east of Guingamp via the N12- and have a wild and dramatic
E50 then the D7, is well worth beauty. According to legend, the
the detour for the Chapelle great rocks beneath which the
Notre-Dame-du-Tertre, which river flows are the stones that a
contains 132 remarkable giant shook out of his clogs.
15th-century frescoes on
biblical themes.
6 Belle-Isle-en-
Terre
Road map C2. 18 km (11 miles) west
of Guingamp via the N12. * 1,110. The church at Bulat-Pestivien, in
n 15 Rue de Crec’h-Ugen; (02) 96 43 the Renaissance style
01 71. £ Guingamp. ( Wed.
_ Festival Blues (Oct). ∑ ot-belle- Environs
isle-en-terre.com The village of Loc-Envel, 4 km
(3 miles) southwest of Belle-
This town lies between the Isle via the D33, stands on
rivers Guer and Guic, which the edge of the Forêt de
join to form the Léguer, the Coat-an-Noz.
river that flows into the Baie de Loc-Envel is well worth a
Lannion. It is a popular area for visit for its 16th-century church.
fishing, and the meadows and The belfry, with gargoyles, is
woods round about are ideal in the Gothic style, but it is
walking country. the interior that is particularly
Tradition dictates that the fascinating. The rood screen,
origins of Belle-Isle-en-Terre richly decorated in the
The nave of the Basilique Notre-Dame go back to the 9th century and Flamboyant Gothic style, and
in Guingamp its name is probably from the the vaulting of the nave, from
monks of Belle-Isle, an island which hosts of carved monsters
off the western coast of Brittany, stare down, are remarkable.
5 Bulat-Pestivien who founded a monastery in The forest, with age-old trees
nearby Locmaria. whose branches are covered
Road map C2. 18 km (11 miles)
southwest of Guingamp via the D787 Just north of the village is the with moss, lichen and ferns, is
then the D31. * 440. _ Pardon Chapelle de Locmaria, which a magical place in which to
(early Sep). has a 15th-century rood screen. stroll. The forest’s undulating
The castle here houses the terrain, and the paths that wind
This small village (famous, Centre Régional d’Initia tion à between clumps of box-tree
rather quirkily, as a centre for la Rivière, which is dedicated to dating from Roman times, make
the breeding of the Breton environmental protection. it interesting walking country.
spaniel) boasts a magnificent
14th-century church, Eglise de
Notre Dame. Its tower is the
earliest example of Renaissance
architecture in Brittany. Like
those of the church at Loc-Envel
(see below), the exterior walls are
covered in gargoyles, monsters
and grimacing ankous (skeletons).
Both the porch and the main
entrance dazzle with their
elaborate decoration. According
to legend, this church was built
by a lord in thanks to the Virgin
Mary, who restored his son to him
when the child was snatched by
a monkey. This strange scene is
depicted in the sacristy. The Flamboyant Gothic rood screen in the church at Loc-Envel




096-097_EW_Brittany.indd 97 11/3/16 1:02 PM

98  BRIT T AN Y REGION B Y REGION


l’Armorique (D42), for a 8 Ploubezre
view of the Baie de Locquirec. Road map C1. 3 km (2 miles) south
Several species of birds, of Lannion via the D11. * 2,700.
including sheldrake and n Mairie; (02) 96 47 15 51.
sandpiper, can also be seen here.
To discover so fine a chapel
Environs in a remote location such
The Château de Rosanbo, as this is always a pleasant
The Château de Rosanbo, owned by the which has been in the same surprise. Notre-Dame de
same family for 600 years family for 600 years, is located Kerfons, in Ploubezre, is one
just 6 km (4 miles) from Plestin- of the most exquisite examples
7 Plestin-les- les-Grèves. This fine residence of religious architecture
Grèves was restored in the Neo-Gothic in Brittany.
style in 1895. The chateau’s The chapel was built in
Road map C1. 15 km (9 miles) formal garden, with hedgerows the Flamboyant Gothic style,
southwest of Lannion via the D786. and bowers, was designed probably under the aegis of
* 3,300. @ Morlaix, Lannion and by Duchêne, the landscape a powerful local lord. When
Plouaret. n Place 19 Mars 1962; gardener who laid out the it was remodelled in the
(02) 96 35 61 93. ( Sun.
gardens at Vaux-le-Vicomte. Renaissance style, its builders
The jewel in the area around The architect Lafargue took the trouble to use stones
Plestin (Plistin in Breton) is a designed the library for the from the same quarry, the
wide, soft sandy beach known 8,000-book collection of better to blend the new style
as Lieue de Grève. This beach, Claude Le Pelletier, who was with the old.
which stretches for miles when to succeed Colbert as The detailed and elaborate
the tide is out, has held a strong Louis XIV’s finance decoration of
appeal for holiday-makers since minister. The dining the interior
the 1930s. Several holiday room was culminates in
residences, including the Villa reconstructed the rood
Trenkler (House of the Eagle) on the basis of screen, a
and Villa Lady Mond at the 18th-century tracery of
coastal village of St-Efflam, inventories. painted and
date from this period. The church gilt wood,
Unfortunately, since 1970, in the village of with reliefs
the water on this small stretch Lanvellec is also Altarpiece in the Chapelle de depicting
of coastline has been regularly worth a visit. It Notre-Dame de Kerfons Christ, the 12
infested with prolific, foul- contains a fine Apostles, St
smelling green algae. However, organ built by Robert Dallam Barbara and St Mary Magdalen.
if taking the sea air is out of the in 1653. The Château de Kergrist,
question, it is possible to climb built in 1537 by Jean de Kergrist
up to the Grand Rocher, which, + Château de Rosanbo and remodelled in the 17th and
80 m (262 ft) high, overlooks Lanvellec (D22). Tel (02) 96 35 18 77. 18th centuries, is characteristic
the beach, or to follow the Open Apr–Jun & Sep–Oct: daily pm; of the great Renaissance
coast road, the Corniche de Jul–Aug: daily. & 8 residences built by the Breton
aristocracy. The Huon de
Penanster family, which has
owned the castle since 1860,
has opened to visitors the
gardens and one of the three
blocks that frame the main
courtyard. The interior is filled
with interesting traditional
Breton furniture, including a
decorated wardrobe, and
tapestry door screens.
R Notre-Dame de Kerfons
Kerfons (D31b). Open mid-Jun–
mid-Sep: daily. & 8
+ Château de Kergrist
Ploubezre (D11). Tel 06 11 52 26
57. Open Jun–Aug: daily. 8
obligatory. Garden: Open Apr–
Oct: daily. & 7 Garden &
Lieue de Grève, a wide sandy beach north of Plestin-les-Grèves ground floor only.
For hotels and restaurants see pp225–6 and pp235–7


098-099_EW_Brittany.indd 98 11/3/16 1:02 PM