(DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Brittany

C Ô TES D ’ ARMOR  99


Knights Templar, the
Trinitarians of St John. The
choice of materials used in
its construction reflects the
importance of this church:
pink and yellow granite for the
south porch, large ashlars for
the apse, black marble and tufa
for the high altar, and painted
wood for the altarpiece (1630)
in the north transept – a slightly
macabre reminder of the
impending Day of Judgment.
The ruined 13th-century Château de Tonquédec R Église de Brélévenez
Open daily. 8 mid-Jul–mid-Aug:
Environs engineering specializing in Mon–Fri & Sun.
About 2 km (1 mile) from state-of-the-art technology.
the Château de Kergist stand the Such dynamism might have
impressive ruins of the Château altered the town’s picturesque
de Tonquédec, built in the 13th character and identity, but
century. During the Wars of the nothing could be further from
Holy League, the castle had the truth. Breton is still spoken
become a Huguenot stronghold. in the busy market square. The
Because of this, it was partly heart of the old town has
demolished in 1626 on the ancient paved alleyways and
orders of Cardinal Richelieu, some charming timber-framed,
principal minister to Louis XIII. granite and cob houses, such
The fortifications consist of 11 as those at Nos. 1–3 Rue des
towers and a courtyard in which Chapeliers, which escaped
attackers could easily be trapped. destruction during the Wars of Le Yaudet, in a beautiful setting on the
From the rampart walk there is a Religion (1591), and Nos. 29– Léguer estuary
panoramic view of the wooded 31 Place du Général-Leclerc,
valley of the Léguer. which were rebuilt after 1630. Environs
These houses are clad in slate About 3 km (2 miles) west
+ Château de Tonquédec and decorated with human of Lannion, on the left bank
Tonquédec (D31b). Tel (02) 96 54 60 figures, animals, crosses and of the Léguer, is Loguivy-
70. Open Apr–mid-Jun & mid-Sep– lozenges. Some of them have lès-Lannion (Logivi in Breton),
end Sep: daily pm; mid-Jun–mid-Sep: over hanging windows. whose parish close has
daily; Oct: Sat & Sun pm. & Of all the religious buildings a notable portal and a
∑ tonquedec.com in Lannion, the most appealing Renaissance fountain. The
is the Église de Brélévenez. It oak altarpiece inside features
is reached via a flight of steps a wealth of carvings.
9 Lannion lined with small, attractive The coast road leads on to
houses decorated with statues the scenic hamlet of Le Yaudet
Road map C1. * 19,400. k £
n Quai d’Aiguillon; (02) 96 05 60 70. of patron saints or ceramic (Ar Yeoded in Breton), whose
_ Fêtes Vocales (late Jul); Estivales de friezes. The church was granite houses cling to the
la Photographie (Jul–Oct). ( Thu. founded in the 12th century hillside. Uniquely in Brittany,
∑ bretagne–cotedegranitrose.com by a branch of the order of the the village chapel contains a
depiction of a recumbent Virgin
The bustling town of Lannion next to the figure of Christ.
(Lannuon in Breton) has Set on a promontory, with
profited handsomely from a stunning view of the Léguer
the installation of the Centre estuary, Le Yaudet has one of
National d’Études des the most beautiful natural
Télécommunications in 1960, settings in the Trégor. Excavations
and from the TGV (high-speed- led by archae ologists from Brest
train) link. The nexus between and Oxford have uncovered
the telecommuni cations a Gallo-Roman fishing village
centre at Pleumeur-Bodou on the promontory.
(see p100) and the optical
industries, Lannion has } Le Yaudet
attracted thousands of Half-timbered houses in the historic centre Le Yaudet (D88). Tel Ploulec’h town hall:
researchers and students of of Lannion (02) 96 46 10 00. 8 Jul–Aug: Mon. &




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100  BRIT T AN Y REGION B Y REGION


their earliest days to the age of Passion of Christ were
digital communications, and carved on it to convert it
a Planetarium, with a screen into a Christian monument.
measuring 600 sq m (6,460 sq ft).
Opposite the planetarium is O Maison LPO
the reconstruction of a Gaulish Île Grande. Tel (02) 96 91 91 40. Open
settlement, the Le Village Apr–May: Sat–Sun pm; Jun, Sep &
Gaulois. This whole complex school hols: daily pm; Jul–Aug: Mon–
goes under the name Cosmopolis. Fri, Sat & Sun pm. Closed Oct–Mar. &
E Cité des Télécoms
Tel (02) 96 46 63 80. Open Apr–Jun & w Trégastel-Plage
A beach at the popular coastal resort Sep: Mon–Fri, Sat–Sun pm; Jul–Aug: Road map C1. 6 km (4 miles) west
of Trébeurden daily; Oct–Mar: Mon–Fri, & Sun pm. of Perros-Guirec via the D788.
Closed Jan. &
0 Trébeurden £ Lannion. * 2,290. n Place
E Planetarium Ste-Anne; (02) 96 15 38 38. ( Mon.
Road map C1. 7 km (4 miles) Tel (02) 96 15 80 30. Open Jul–Aug: _ Fest-noz (Jun); 24 Heures de la
northwest of Lannion via the D65. daily; during school holidays. Voile (mid-Aug).
£ Lannion. * 3,540. n Place Closed Jan. & ∑ planetarium-
de Crec’h-Héry; (02) 96 23 51 64. bretagne.fr This resort is famous for the
( Tue. _ Fest-noz (Jul); concerts blocks of pink granite that rise
(Wed in summer). ∑ tourisme- E Le Village Gaulois up behind its beaches, Plage
trebeurden.com Tel (02) 96 91 83 95. Open Easter–Jun du Coz-Pors and Plage de
& Sep: Mon–Fri pm, Sun pm; Jul–Aug: Grève-Blanche. The orientation
A popular coastal resort, daily. & ∑ levillagegaulois.org table between these two
Trébeurden has several beautiful beaches offers a splendid
beaches either side of Le Castel, Environs panorama of the coast and
a rugged peninsula with pink The Île Grande, north of of the countryside inland.
granite rocks. The Île Milliau, Trébeurden, is accessible via At the Aquarium Marin,
opposite the peninsula, is a bridge on the D788. As housed in a cave,
accessible at low tide. More than well as beaches and visitors can see fish
270 species of plants grow there. footpaths, the island and other marine
The island was inhabited 7,000 has an ornitho logical life of the waters
years ago; evidence of human centre. The Maison around Brittany.
habitation is a Neolithic passage LPO, a centre set up Kerguntuil, 2 km
grave, the Allée Couverte de by an organization for (1 mile) south, on
Prajou-Menhir, 14 m (46 ft) long the protection of birds, the D788 towards
and with carvings on its stones. high lights the rich Trebeurden, is of
The Marais du Quellen, behind flora and fauna of the Board for Aquarium interest for its
Plage de Goas-Trez, attracts Sept-Îles archipelago. Marin, Trégastel Neolithic passage
snipe, teal grebe and other birds. Tours are also grave and dolmen.
organized from here. The Menhir
de St-Uzec, 2 km (1 mile) from  Aquarium Marin
q Pleumeur-Bodou Penvern, is a standing stone 8 m Boulevard de Coz-Pors. Tel (02) 96 23
(26 ft) high, one of the finest in 48 58. Open Jul–Aug: daily; rest of
Road map C1. 6 km (4 miles) north-
west of Lannion via the D65 then the Brittany. In the 17th century, a year: times vary, check website. &
D21. £ Lannion. * 4,000. n 11 cross and a depiction of the ∑ aquarium-tregastel.com
Rue des Chardons; (02) 96 23 91 47.
( Sat. ∑ pleumeur-bodou.com
Bristling with giant antennae
that provide worldwide
communication, Pleumeur-
Bodou is well known as the site
of the telecommunications
centre where the first satellite
link between the United States
and Europe was made, in 1962.
The radar dome, a gigantic
sphere 50 m (160 ft) high, is
open to visitors. In the Cité des
Télécoms, there’s a museum
tracing the 150-year history of
telecommunications from The futuristic Cité des Télécoms, Pleumeur-Bodou
For hotels and restaurants see pp225–6 and pp235–7


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e Ploumanac’h

On account of its spectacular
rocks, this former fishing village,
now a district of Perros-Guirec,
is one of the greatest tourist
attractions in Brittany. Pointe de
Squewel, one hour’s walk along
the coast path from Plage
St-Guirec, north of Ploumanac’h,
is a promontory with gigantic
piles of rocks that suggest such
incongruous shapes as tortoises,
rabbits and tricorn hats. The
Maison du Littoral, level with
the lighthouse, contains
displays explaining how the
rocks were formed, and
describing local flora and fauna. Plage de Trestraou, one of several beaches at Perros-Guirec
The Chapelle Notre-Dame-
de-la-Clarté (1445), midway r Perros-Guirec Environs
between Ploumanac’h and Road map C1. £ Lannion. * 7,890. From Perros-Guirec there is a
Perros-Guirec, is the focus of a n 21 Place de l’Hôtel-de-Ville; (02) boat service to the Sept-Îles
very lively annual pardon. The 96 23 21 15. ( Fri. _ Festival de Archipelago, one of the best
chapel has an interesting porch la Bande Dessinée (Apr); Fête des places to see sea birds. One
with relief decoration, and, Hortensias (Jul); Ploumanac’h of the islands, the Île aux
inside, a stoup (1931) decorated Regatta (late Jul); Pardon de Notre- Moines, is named after the
with heads of Moors and the Dame-de-la-Clarté (15 Aug). Franciscan friars who settled
Stations of the Cross. It was ∑ perros-guirec.com there in the Middle Ages.
made by Maurice Denis, a Also on the island is a
founder of the group of painters With about a dozen beaches and lighthouse and a small fort
known as the Nabis. many hotels, this coastal resort built by Garangeau, the
The Vallée des Traouïéros, attracts large numbers of visitors architect responsible for
between Ploumanac’h and in summer. As at Ploumanac’h, St-Malo’s fortifications
Trégastel, runs between blocks the coast here has extra ordinary (see pp84–9).
of granite and lush vegetation. rock formations shaped by the
The restored tidal mill here erosion of wind and rain. g Embarcadère des
dates from the 14th century. The coast path, running the Sept-Îles
6 km (4 miles) between Plage (boarding point for boat service),
O Maison du Littoral de Trestraou and the famous Plage de Trestraou. Tel (02) 96 91 10
Opposite lighthouse. Tel (02) 96 91 62 rocks at Ploumanac’h, offers 00. Open Apr–Sep: daily; rest of the
77. Open mid–end Jun & start–mid- stunning views. year: by arrangement.
Sep: Mon–Sat; Jul–Aug: daily; school
holidays at other times: Mon–Fri pm.
Sept-Îles Bird Sanctuary
Although the islands’ best-known
inhabitant is the puffin, the Sept-
Îles archipelago, a protected
area, is also home to fulmars,
kittiwakes, pied oystercatchers,
gulls, crested cormorants and
other sea birds. Twenty thousand
pairs breed in this protected area.
Only one island, the Île aux
Moines, is accessible to the
public, although the birds on the
other islands can be observed
from motorboats. On the Île de
Roizic, 15,130 pairs of gannets
and 248 pairs of puffins nest in
the craggy rocks. Grey seals can
sometimes be seen at the foot
of the cliffs in the islands’ The puffin, the emblematic
Granite rocks at Pointe de Squewel, a major secluded creeks. inhabitant of the Sept-Îles
tourist attraction




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102  BRIT T AN Y REGION B Y REGION


richly decorated façade and the
south porch, with a pointed arch,
has some notable reliefs. While
the lintel is carved with a scene
of the Annunciation and with a
Pietà, the side panels feature a
host of carved figures, four of
whom stick out their tongues
at the viewer. In front of the
church is a rare 15th-century
outdoor pulpit.

y Port-Blanc
Road map C1. 8 km (5 miles)
northwest of Tréguier via the D70a,
the D70 then the D74. £ Lannion.
* 2,500. n 12 Place de l’Église,
Penvenan; (02) 96 92 81 09. ( Sat.
Stained-glass window in the Église Ste-Catherine in La Roche-Derrien _ Pardons (Whitsun & 15 Aug).
t La Roche-Derrien Environs Lying west of Plougrescant and
The 16th-century chapel sheltered by a barrier of dunes,
Road map C1. 15 km (9 miles)
northeast of Lannion via the D786 at Confort, 13 km (8 miles) the coastal village of Port-Blanc
then the D6. £ Guingamp or southwest of La Roche-Derrien is a pleasant holiday resort. The
Lannion. * 1,100. n (May–Sep) on the D33, is built in a highly picturesque 16th-century
10 Place du Martray; (02) 96 91 59 40. combination of the Flamboyant chapel, which nestles among
( Fri. ∑ tregor-cotedajoncs- Gothic and Renaissance styles. rocks, is the focal point of the
tourisme.com The bell tower, in the style of village. The chapel’s roof is
Lannion belfries, incorporates unusual in that it reaches almost
In the middle ages, La a stair turret. The to the ground. The 17th-century
Roche Derrien (Ker chapel contains an calvary in the close depicts
Roc’h in Breton, altar piece in which St Yves, St Joachim, St Peter
meaning Town of the the Virgin is and St Francis. The chapel
Rock), was a fortified depicted in the contains several old statues,
town over which likeness of Anne including the traditional group
many battles were of Brittany and the depicting St Yves between a rich
fought. The castle, Angel Gabriel in that and a poor man.
over looking the of Louis XII, king of From the harbour, trips out to
Jaudy valley, was Altarpiece in the chapel France (see pp48–9). sea are offered in an old sardine
besieged during the at Confort About 6 km (4 miles) boat, the Ausquémé. The coast
War of the Breton southeast of La path from Port-Blanc to
Succes sion, a conflict between Roche-Derrien on the D8, the Buguélès commands some
the English, the French and the church at Runan, dating from magnificent views.
Bretons (see p46). In the 14th the 14th–16th centuries, was
century, it passed into the hands once owned by the Knights 4 Ausquémé
of Bertrand du Guesclin (see p47), Templar, then by the Knights Tel 06 07 59 04 03.
who is said to have planted the of St John of Jerusalem. It has a Open Jul–Sep: daily. &
yew tree that still stands in
the close of the 18th-century
Chapelle de Notre-Dame-de-la-
Pitié, on the road to Kermezen.
Today, La Roche-Derrien offers
pleasant walks on the banks of
the Jaudy. In the town, several
timber-framed houses line Place
du Martray. The Église Ste-
Catherine, built in the 12th and
15th centuries, contains an
elaborate 17th-century altarpiece.
The modern stained-glass
window in the transept depicts
the battle between supporters of
Charles of Blois and the English. The 16th-century chapel at Port-Blanc
For hotels and restaurants see pp225–6 and pp235–7


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The Sillon de Talbert, a natural spit of land with the Héaux lighthouse in the distance
u Plougrescant Romanesque, dating from the contrasting colours, and areas
10th century. From this section of black and white, emphasize
Road map C1. 6 km (4 miles) north of
Tréguier on the D8. £ Guingamp or rises the belfry, built in 1612. outlines and accentuate
Lannion. * 1,430. n (Apr–Sep) The other part is the nave, perspective. The strikingly fine
42 Hent St Gonéry, Plougrescant; which was built in the 15th monu ments inside the chapel
(02) 96 92 56 83. ∑ tregor- century. The chapel is of include the tomb of Guillaume
cotedajoncs-tourisme.com interest chiefly for its remarkable du Halgouët, bishop of Tréguier,
15th-century frescoes. Covering and an alabaster statue of the
The most prominent feature of the barrel-vaulted ceiling, they Virgin, both of which date from
Plougrescant is its chapel, the loosely depict scenes from the the 16th century. Also notable is
Chapelle St-Gonéry, which has Old and New Testaments. These a reliquary with finely carved
an eye catchingly crooked belfry. scenes, which are painted on an panels. In summer, trips out to
The church consists of two ochre background dotted with sea in an old sailing boat, the
sections, the first of which is stars, are in a naive style. The Marie-Georgette, depart from
the harbour.
Famous Names in Port-Blanc
4 Marie-Georgette
Port-Blanc has appealed to a Tel (02) 96 92 58 83. Trips run Apr–Oct,
variety of different people, from must be pre-booked. &
authors and songwriters to ∑ marie-georgette.com
scientists and pioneers of
aviation. In 1898, the writer
Anatole Le Braz bought the i Sillon de Talbert
property known as Kerstellic.
He recorded Breton stories and This natural spit of land
legends that he heard told by extends for 3 km (2 miles)
the inhabitants of the Trégor. from the tip of the Presqu’île
La Légende de la Mort (1893), Sauvage, the peninsula
is considered by Armorican between Tréguier and Paimpol.
Bretons to be his best work.
Théodore Botrel Made up of sand and pebbles,
Le Braz’s friend and neighbour
was the writer Ernest Renan (see p107), who lived at Rosmapamon. the spit was created by the
The songwriter Théodore Botrel, who wrote La Paimpolaise, opposing currents of two
bought land at Port-Blanc on which he built a house that he rivers, the Trieux and the
named Ty Chansonniou (House of Songs). He later left to live in Jaudy. It is now called
Pont-Aven. In 1922, Alexis Carrel, winner of the Nobel Prize for Réserve Naturelle Régionale,
Medicine, purchased the Île St-Gildas, where he was buried in a protected site, as, were it to
1944. His friend Charles Lindbergh was a frequent visitor. In 1938, disappear, the two inlets on
after his pioneering flight across the Atlantic, Lindbergh acquired each side of the peninsula
the Île d’Illiec, where he briefly lived before returning to the would be at the mercy of tidal
United States. currents. The Héaux lighthouse
can also be seen from here.



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o Île de Bréhat

Because of the luxuriant vegetation that thrives in its gentle
climate, the Île de Bréhat is also known as the Island of
Flowers. Bréhat, a paradise for walkers and a haven for artists,
actually consists of two large islands linked by a bridge. In the
north, heathland predominates and the indented coastline is
reminiscent of Ireland. In the south, the landscape is softer, 4 Phare du Paon
with pine trees, pink pebble beaches and Mediterranean Destroyed by German
forces during World
plants. There is no motorized transport, but it is easy to walk War II, the lighthouse
or cycle along the island’s sunken paths. was rebuilt in red
porphyry in 1947. Stairs
lead up to the platform,
6 Chapelle St-Michel 5 Phare du Rosédo from which there is a
The 19th-century lighthouse
Perched on a rise 26 m overlooks the heathland of the view of the open sea.
(85 ft) high, the Chapelle northwest of the island. Ernest
St-Michel overlooks the Renan (see p107) came here to enjoy
whole island. It was rebuilt the beauty of the surroundings. J
in 1852, and has long
served as a landmark for
shipping. The path leads
straight down to an old
tidal mill. Chaise de Chapelle
Renan St-Rion
Île
7 Le Goareva Pointe du Île Nord ar-Morbic
This fort is a fine Rosedo
example of Signal Station
18th-century
military
architecture. Île
J Anse de la Corderie Séhérès
la Croix
de Maudez
1 Port-Clos Ètang de Île Raguénès
Meur
In 1770, Charles Birlot Lavrec
Moulin
Cornic built this de Crec’h Tarek
harbour, a port of Île Sud 3 Chaussée Vauban
call for ships from A bridge built by Vauban links
the mainland. the south and north islands.
The harbour in the Anse de la
Île Corderie, west of the bridge,
Key Logodec was once Bréhat’s port.
Suggested route Plage de
Guerzido
Footpaths
Other routes Pointe de
l’Arcouest
Tips for Drivers
0 metres 1000
0 yards 1000 Tour : about 9 km (5.5 miles).
Access : 15 mins from Pointe de
l’Arcouest; information: Tel (02) 96
20 04 15; ∑ brehat-infos.fr
2 The town Bicycles can be hired in Port-Clos.
Bréhat consists
of houses clustered Stopping-off places : La
around a 12th- Cabounette, in the centre of
century church Bréhat, offers mussels, tapas and
with 17th–19th- pizzas; Le Paradis Rose, in the
century alterations. north, serves crêpes.
Bréhat, the flower-filled island
For keys to symbols see back flap


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C Ô TES D ’ ARMOR  105


p Paimpol 4 Boat Trips
Tel (02) 96 55 44 33.
Road map D1. * 8,420. ∑ voilestraditions.fr
£ Avenue Général-de-Gaulle. @ Sardine Boat Trips
n Place de la République; (02) 96 20 Tel (02) 96 55 99 99.
83 16. ( Tue. _ Fête des Terre- Open Apr–Sep.
Neuvas et des Islandais (third Sun in ∑ eulalie-paimpol.com
Jul); Songs of the sea (every 2 years in Steam Train: Vapeur du Trieux
Aug, odd years); Fest-noz (14 Jul). Tel (02) 96 20 52 06.
∑ paimpol-goelo.com
Open mid-May–mid-Sep.
Although pleasure boats have Environs
now replaced the schooners The ruined Romanesque
that once filled the harbour, this Abbaye de Beauport,
is still the heart of Paimpol, with The 13th-century Abbaye de Beauport, 2 km (1 mile) south of Paimpol
coasters and trawlers tied up in Paimpol, now in ruins via the D786, is one of the
alongside the quais. As Pierre Loti, most beautiful abbeys in
in his novel Pêcheurs d’Islande (An lodge by the Rohans, a powerful Brittany. Built in the Anglo-
Iceland Fisherman), so eloquently Breton dynasty. The Musée du Norman style in the early 13th
described, the sea has exacted a Costume, on Place du Pont Neuf, century, it was an important
heavy price from Paimpol: 100 closed in 2016 to loan its exhibits religious centre. Visitors can
schooners and 2,000 men were to a larger exhibition and it is see the chapterhouse,
lost in the fishing expeditions unclear when it will reopen; the cloisters, refectory and
that left Paimpol for Iceland. tourist office may be able to help. storerooms. Concerts and
The first left in 1852 and, in Through photographs, models, son et lumière spectaculars
1895, 82 schooners of 400 ships’ logs, nautical equipment are staged here during the
tonnes burden set sail for the and votive offerings, the Musée summer. From the abbey,
North Sea. Each was crewed by de la Mer, in a building once a road leads to the Chapelle
about 20 seamen, who for six used for drying cod, describes Ste-Barbe, the start ing
months endured not only cold the fishing expeditions to point of a coastal path.
and great physical strain, but Newfoundland and Iceland. The Pointe de l’Arcouest,
also separation from their From Paimpol, visitors can reached via the D789
families. Their wives, the famous take a boat trip out to sea or a from Paimpol, is the main
Paimpolaises immortalized by ride on a steam train up the boarding point for the Île
Théodore Botrel, would scour Trieux valley to Pontrieux. de Bréhat.
the horizon for their return at
the Croix des Veuves-en- E Musée du Costume R Abbaye de Beauport
Ploubazlanec, north of the Place du Pont Neuf. Tel (02) 96 55 04 On the D786. Tel (02) 96 55 18 58.
town. When the ships came in, 61 or n (02) 96 20 83 16. Open Mar–Nov: daily. &
there were either joyful reunions E Musée de la Mer g Pointe de l’Arcouest
or scenes of mourning. The last Rue Labenne. Tel (02) 96 22 02 19. Les Vedettes de Bréhat.
expedition to Iceland left Open mid-Apr–Oct: daily pm. & Tel (02) 96 55 79 50.
Paimpol in 1935.
The Place du Martray, in
the town centre, is lined with Artists on Bréhat
16th-century houses. On the Between the late 19th and early 20th centuries, many writers and
corner of Rue de l’Église is a artists came to Bréhat. Writers included Ernest Renan, the Goncourt
shipowner’s house in the brothers, Pierre Loti and Théodore Botrel, and the artists Henri
Renaissance style, with a turret. Rivière, Paul Gauguin, Henry Matisse, Tsugouharu Foujita, Henri
The house was used as a hunting Dabadie and many others. All found inspiration in the island’s
landscapes, but they also frequented the town’s cafés. Mme Guéré,
the fearsome landlady of a certain café, once threatened to behead
a customer if he failed
to settle his slate. Taking
her at her word, the
miscreant painted his
face on the side of his
glass. Ever since, artists
have customarily
painted their portraits
on glasses at the Café
des Pêcheurs, which
now has a collection of
Vintage steam train in the station over 200 glasses. Une Rue à Bréhat, a painting by Henri Dabadie
at Pontrieux
For hotels and restaurants see pp225–6 and pp235–7


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a Tréguier VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

The capital of the Trégor and an ancient bishopric, Tréguier is Practical Information
today a quiet city. The narrow streets around the splendid Road map C1. * 2,950. n 13
cathedral are lined with timber-framed houses and grander Place de l’Église, Penvénan; (02)
96 92 22 33 ( Wed. _ Pardon
granite residences. The 16th-century timber-framed house in de St-Yves (third Sun in May);
Rue Renan that is the birthplace of the writer Ernest Renan is Beg Chopin music festival:
now a museum, and visitors can see the nursery, Renan’s mid-Jul.
studio and various other exhibits relating to his life and work. Transport
The Flamboyant Gothic Cathédrale St-Tugdual, one of the @ Paimpol or Lannion.
finest examples of Breton religious architecture, dominates
Tréguier. The Pardon de St-Yves, in May, honours the R Cathédrale St-Tugdual
cathedral’s patron saint, who is also that of lawyers. Place du Martray. Open Jul–Aug:
8:30am–7pm daily; Sep–Jun: 9am–
noon & 2–6pm daily. Closed to
Cathédrale St-Tugdual visitors during services. 8 Cloisters &
A masterpiece of Breton Gothic treasury: Open Mar, Apr & Oct: Tue–
religious architecture, the cathedral Sun pm; May, Jun & Sep: Tue–Sat, Sun
was built in the 14th–15th centuries. pm; Jul–Aug: daily. &
The cathedral was built on the
site of a 12th-century
The courtyard was Roman esque church,
The Tour Hastings, with hired out to traders the only vestige of
Romanesque arches, is the during the city’s fair.
cathedral’s oldest tower. which is the Tour
Hastings. The
Porche des
The spire, 72 m
(236 ft) high, is
covered with
playing-card
symbols, as the
Loteries de Paris
contributed
to the cost of
its rebuilding.
The Gothic tower over the
crossing once contained a bell.

Chapelle au Duc
contains the body
of Jean V, Duke
of Brittany.
Nave








Buttresses



The south door is a The Porche des Cloches
The west door is pointed archway divided is crowned by a
framed by an arch by a column. Above is a Flamboyant Gothic
with a terrace above. rose window. stained-glass window.
For hotels and restaurants see pp225–6 and pp235–7


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C Ô TES D ’ ARMOR  107


Cloches, in the south side, has a
Flam boyant Gothic stained-glass Ernest Renan
window. An 18th-century spire Born in Tréguier, Ernest Renan (1823–92)
rises from the tower. The south- intended to join the priesthood, but his
side outer wall is covered in reading of the philosopher Hegel turned
Gothic tracery. The arches inside him against this vocation. A philologist
rise in three tiers to a height of who specialized in Semitic languages,
18 m (59 ft) above the nave, and he published writings that were
thought to be scandalous because they
grotesques stare down from the proposed a rational, analytical approach
base of some of the arches. The to Christianity. Renan’s Vie de Jésus (Life of
choir, in the Anglo-Norman style, Jesus) had particularly dramatic
has 46 Renais sance stalls with repercussions. When his statue was
strik ingly realistic decoration. The Ernest Renan, a native unveiled in 1903, the police were forced
cathe dral also contains the tomb of Tréguier to act to prevent its desecration.
of Jean V, Duke of Brittany, the
tomb of St Yves (1890), and the
saint’s reliquary. The 15th-century Tréguier, is famously associated poor man. The Château de
cloisters north of the choir are with Yves Helory de Kermartin, La Roche-Jagu, 14 km (9 miles)
the best-preserved in Brittany. who was canonized in 1347. A south east of Tréguier, was built
member of the local nobility, in the 15th century, on the site
E Maison Natale d’Ernest-Renan he became a protector of the of one of the ten forts that,
20 Rue Ernest-Renan. Tel (02) 96 poor, and turned the village from the 11th century,
92 45 63. Open Apr–Jun: Wed–Sun; into a refuge (minihy). An defended the Trieux valley.
Jul–Aug: daily; Sep: Wed–Sun. annual pardon (third Sun in
Closed Oct–Mar. & May) is held in his honour. + Château de La Roche-Jagu
The 15th-century church Tel (02) 96 95 62 35. Open mid-May–
Environs contains painted wooden mid-Sep: daily; Nov & Christmas hols:
The village of Minihy-Tréguier, statues of St Yves, shown, as daily pm. _ Jul–Aug: fêtes and
1 km (0.5 mile) south of usual, bet ween a rich and a music. &

Europe. Regardless of their town of this size, the deep-
rank, the Ankou (skeletal figure) water harbour here can berth
leads men, from pope and king 1,000 boats. A coast path leads
to knight and peasant, in a to a signal station.
macabre dance.
Environs
d St-Quay- The resort of Binic, 7 km (4 miles)
south of St-Quay-Portrieux, was
Portrieux a large port in the 19th century.
The Musée d’Arts et Traditions
Road map D1. £ St-Brieuc.
* 3,430. g Motorboat service to Île Populaires is devoted to local
de Bréhat Apr–mid-Sep. n 17 bis history, especially the Newfound-
Fresco of the Dance of Death in the Chapelle Rue Jeanne-d’Arc; (02) 96 70 40 64. land fishing industry. Breton
de Kermaria-an-Iskuit ( Mon & Fri. ∑ saintquayportrieux. headdresses are on display.
s Chapelle de com E Musée d’Arts et Traditions
Kermaria-an-Iskuit The pleasant coastal resort of Populaires
St-Quay-Portrieux, north of Avenue du Général-de-Gaulle, Binic.
Road map D1. 11 km (7 miles) north - St-Brieuc, once relied for its Tel (02) 96 73 37 95. Open mid–late
west of St-Quay-Portrieux via the livelihood on fishing off Jun & Sep: Wed–Mon pm; Jul–Aug:
D786 then D21. n (02) 96 65 32 53. Newfoundland. Uniquely for a pm (phone first). &
Open Jul–Aug: Mon–Fri; Sep–Jun: Tue
pm. 8 _ Pardon (third Sun in Sep).
About 3 km (2 miles) from Plouha
stands the Chapelle Kermaria-
an-Iskuit, “Chapel of Mary
Restorer of Health”. Founded in
the 13th century by a former
Crusader, it contains some
extremely rare frescoes. One of
them (1501) depicts the Dance
of Death; the fear of death was
widespread in late medieval The bay at St-Quay-Portrieux, a coastal resort with beautiful beaches




106-107_EW_Brittany.indd 107 11/3/16 1:02 PM

108  BRIT T AN Y REGION B Y REGION

f St-Brieuc

The history of St-Brieuc is closely linked to its
evolution as a centre of religion. In the 5th century,
Brioc, a Welsh monk, founded an oratory on the site
of the present Fontaine St-Brieuc, in Rue Notre-Dame.
The city was sacked in the late 16th century, during
the Wars of the Holy League (see p50), although stability
returned in the 17th and 18th centuries. Lying between
the valleys of the Gouédic and the Gouët, St-Brieuc,
capital of the Côtes d’Armor, is a pleasant city. Also a
dynamic centre of culture, it has spawned cultural
organizations and hosts events such as Art Rock
(see p34). It also has associations with several great
French writers.
sturdy towers: the 14th-century Timber-framed house in Rue Fardel, in the
Tour Brieuc, 28 m (92 ft) high, old town of St-Brieuc
and the 15th-century Tour
Marie, 33 m (108 ft) high. Both The 15th-century building in
are pierced with openings that Rue Fardel known as Maison
allowed defensive weapons of Ribault is the oldest house in
many kinds to be used. St-Brieuc. In Rue Quinquaine,
The large Chapelle de the Hôtel des Ducs de
l’Annonciation, dating from Bretagne, the ducal residence
the 15th century, has a notable built in 1572, is also of interest
altarpiece made by Yves for its elegant Renaissance
Corlaix in 1745. With rocaille façade with grotesque masks
decoration, gilt polychrome and figures carved in relief.
and curves and counter-curves, On Place du Chai, modern
it is a masterpiece of Baroque buildings stand alongside
art. In the choir, some of the restored wine ware houses.
capitals are carved with A covered passageway links
One of the towers on the fortified grotesques or foliage. The the square with Rue
Cathédrale St-Étienne organ was built by Cavaillé- Houvenagle, which is lined
Coll, who also built the organ with ancient timber-framed
P Old Town in St-Sulpice in Paris. houses faced with pilasters and
Built in the 14th and 15th Rue Pohel, Rue Fardel and featuring overhanging upper
centuries, the Cathédrale Rue Quinquaine, in the vicinity storeys. Three pedestrianized
St-Étienne, located on Place of the cathedral, are lined with streets, Rue St-Gouéno, Rue
du Général de Gaulle, has the many timber-framed houses Charbonnerie and Rue
appearance of a fortress. Its dating from the 15th and St-Guillaume run through the
central porch is flanked by two 16th centuries. city’s main shopping area are
worth seeing.
Literary life in St-Brieuc E Musée d’Art et d’Histoire
Growing up in St-Brieuc in the early Cours Francis-Renaud. Tel (02) 96 62
20th century, Jean Grenier and Louis 55 20. Open Tue–Sat, Sun pm.
Guilloux formed a strong friendship. While Through models, paintings,
the latter spent his life in St-Brieuc, Grenier objects from everyday life
left in 1930 to teach at the lycée in Algiers, and digital works of art, this
where one of his pupils was the young museum presents the history
Albert Camus. As a teacher, Grenier of the département of the
influenced Camus’ later work. Camus, the Côtes d’Armor from its origins
author of L’homme Révolté and winner of in the 18th century up until
the Nobel Prize for Literature in 1957, was
Jean Grenier steeped in the writings of both Grenier and the 20th century. The displays
Guilloux, and of Georges Palante, another illustrate several themes, inc-
philosopher who was a native of St-Brieuc. Guilloux came to the luding fishing, shipbuilding,
attention of the publisher Gaston Gallimard, winning the Prix the cloth and linen trade,
Renaudot with Le Jeu de Patience (1949). Gide and Malraux judged and agriculture and land
his novel Le Sang Noir (1935) to be a work of major importance. reclamation, as well as
popular traditions.
For hotels and restaurants see pp225-6 and pp235-7


108-109_EW_Brittany.indd 108 11/3/16 1:02 PM

C Ô TES D ’ ARMOR  109


VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Road map: D2. * 48,900.
n 7 Rue St-Gouéno; 02 96 33 32
50. ( Wed & Sat. _ Art Rock
(Whitsun); Fête Maritime (mid-Jul);
Folies en Baie (Aug); Les Nocturnes
(Jul–Aug).
∑ baiedesaintbrieuc.com
Transport
Anse d’Yffiniac, seen from the Maison de la Baie £ Boulevard Charner.
@ Rue du 71ème Regiment
Y Parc des Promenades the sea by the port of Légué, d’Infanterie.
These walks circle the law on the Gouët estuary. Here,
courts. East of Rue St-Guillaume, shipowners’ houses evoke the
the municipal garden, great age of the 19th-century northern Europe at the end of
decorated with sculptures, Newfoundland cod-fishing summer. Most spend the winter
follows the outline of the old industry, which has been here. The Maison de la Baie,
city walls. On the right of the replaced by the scallop industry. north of Hillion, has displays
law courts stands a bust of A foot path runs around the documenting the bay’s flora
the writer Villiers de l’Isle-Adam, Pointe du Roselier. From and fauna and de scribing its
who was born in St-Brieuc, by the point, there is a view of the seafaring economy.
Elie Le Goff, and a sculpture whole bay, from Cap d’Erquy in Near Hillion, long paths
entitled La Forme se Dégageant the east to the Île de Bréhat leading far into the Dunes de
de la Matière (Form Emerging in the northwest. After passing Bon-Abri allow walkers to have
from Matter) by Paul Le Goff. an 18th-century cannon-ball a closer look at the plant life of
There is a also a monument foundry, the long-distance the protected site.
dedicated to Paul Le Goff on footpath GR34 leads to Martin-
Boulevard de La Chalotais. Plage. The Anse d’Yffiniac, an E Maison de la Baie
inlet behind the bay, is a sea- Rue de l’Etoile. Tel (02) 96 32 27 98.
Environs bird sanctuary: 20,000 birds of Open Oct–May: Wed, Fri pm, Sun pm;
Lying some 3 km (2 miles) various species nest in this Jun, Sep: Wed–Fri pm, Sun pm;
inland, St-Brieuc is linked to protected site. They arrive from Jul–Aug: Mon–Fri, Sat & Sun pm.

St-Brieuc City Centre
1 Cathédrale St-Étienne
2 Maison Ribault
3 Musée d’Art et d’Histoire
4 Parc des Promenades St-Michel
PLACE RU E CHAT EA U BRI A ND
R U E M ARÉ CHA L F OC H
SAINT-MICHEL
RUE N OTRE- DAME
RUE DU PARC
RUE
R POHEL RUE QUINQUAINE PLACE
R FARDEL HOUVENAGLE RUE LAMENNAIS
Maison
Ribault
RUE
PLACE DU DU CHAI CHARBONNERIE
MARTRAY RU E S AIN T B E NO I T LÉGUÉ
PLACE DU Cathédrale BREST
GÉNÉRAL
DE GAULLE St-Étienne PLACE Parc des
G. BIZOIN Promenades
Hôtel PLACE DE LA RUE DES PROMENADES
de Ville
R UE S A IN T PI E R R E RUE P. CORBION RUE DE ROHAN RUE SAINT GUILLAUME de Justice B O U LE VA RD L A CH ALO TAI S BOULEVARD SÉVIGNÉ
RÉSISTANCE
Palais
Vallée
R U E V IC A IRI E ALLÉE DES PROMENADES Gouédic
du
RU E CH . LE MAOUT Musee d’Art PLACE
et d’Histoire
BREST ENS MARTYRS -GUILLAUME BD SÉVIGNÉ PLACE LAMBALLE
SAINT-
DU
RUE DES LYCÉ PLACE DU CHAMP DE MARS PLACE DU 8 MAI 1945
AV DE LA LI BÉRATION
GUESCLIN
RU E D U 7 1 E RE G IME N T D ’IN FA NTE RI E
Gare SNCF BD WALDECK R O U S SEAU
500 m (550 yads)
LOUDÉAC RUE DU COMBAT
0 metres 200 PONTIVY DES TRENTE
VANNES
0 yards 200
RUE DE GOUËDIC
For keys to symbols see back flap
108-109_EW_Brittany.indd 109 11/3/16 1:02 PM

110  BRIT T AN Y REGION B Y REGION

j Lamballe
Road map D2. £ Boulevard Jobert.
@ * 11,200. n Place du Champ
du Foire; (02) 96 31 05 38. ( Thu.
_ Foire des Potiers (May); Pardon
de Notre-Dame (Sep); National de
Cheval Breton (Sep). ∑ lamballe-
tourisme.com
Founded in the sixth century,
Lamballe began to develop
in the 11th century. Capital
of the duchy of Penthièvre,
the region was one of the
most important strongholds
of Brittany. Until the 18th
The elegant Château de Quintin, built in the 17th century century, Penthièvre was in
repeated conflict with its
g Quintin h Moncontour rival, the house of Brittany.
The Musée d’Art Populaire
Road map D2. 18 km (11 miles) Road map D2. 15 km (9 miles)
southwest of St-Brieuc via the D700, the southwest of Lamballe via the D768. du Pays de Lamballe, on Place
D790 and the D7. £ St-Brieuc. * £ Lamballe. * 900. n 4 Place de du Martray, has exhibits dating
2,930. n 6 Place 1830; (02) 96 74 01 51. la Carrière; (02) 96 73 49 57. ( Tue. from prehistory, as well as local
( Tue. _ Pardon de Notre-Dame _ Fête Médiévale (every 2 years; costumes, headdresses and
(second Sun in May); Festival St Martin early Aug); Festival de Musique tools. The collections illustrate
(Nov); Fête des Tisserands (late Jul/early Ancienne (Sep). the daily life in Lamballe and
Aug). ∑ tourismequintin.com its environs in historical times.
This medieval walled town The Musée Mathurin-Méheut,
During the 17th and 18th stands on a promontory housed in the charming
centuries, Quintin was an at the point where two half-timbered Maison
important centre of the linen valleys meet. Fine 16th- du Bourreau, has
cloth industry. This age of and 18th-century a large collection
prosperity gave the town its residences and half- relating to this local
chateau as well as the timber- timbered houses line Rue painter, who was also
framed houses and fine granite- des Dames and Place de a leading exponent of
built residences that line Place Penthièvre, where a linen Art Nouveau. About
1830, Place du Martray and market was once held. 4,000 of his works are
Grande Rue. The Maison du The Église St-Mathurin, exhibited in rotation,
Tisserand in Rue des Degrés dating from the Stained glass, illustrating a different
houses the Musée-Atelier des 16th–18th centuries, is Église St-Mathurin theme each year.
Toiles which documents this well worth a visit for its The Collégiale
period of the town’s history. 16th-century stained-glass Notre-Dame-de-Grande-
The 19th-century Neo-Gothic windows. Those showing Puissance in Rue Notre-Dame,
Basilique Notre-Dame, in scenes from the life of St Yves, has the appearance of a
Rue de la Basilique, is dedicated on the left of the nave, exhibit fortified church. It is built in a
to the patroness of spinners. traces of Flemish influence. combination of Romanesque
A relic reputed to be a piece
of the Virgin’s girdle is kept in
the basilica. It is particularly Linen Cloth
venerated by pregnant women. The linen cloth industry brought
Opposite the tourist office, prosperity to Brittany in the 17th and
the Château de Quintin, built 18th centuries. St-Brieuc, Quintin, Uzel,
in the 17th–18th centuries, Loudéac and Moncontour – which,
houses a unique collection of between them, had more than 8,000
over 280 pieces of porcelain. weavers – were the main centres of
production. In 1676, a statute was
+ Château de Quintin passed regulating the standards of
Entrance on Place 1830. Tel (02) 96 quality of the linen cloth woven in
74 94 79. Open Feb–Mar: Sun pm; western Europe. That produced in
Apr–Jun & Sep–Oct: daily pm; Jul– Brittany was then acknowledged to
Aug: daily. & be the best in France. Loaded onto
E Musée-Atelier des Toiles A loom on which linen cloth was ships in St-Malo and Nantes, it was
Rue des Degrés. Tel (02) 96 32 78 08. once woven exported worldwide.
Open Jun–Sep: Tue–Sat. &
For hotels and restaurants see pp225–6 and pp235–7


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C Ô TES D ’ ARMOR  111


Near the church, a
Mathurin Méheut walking path has
Painter, interior decorator, been laid out on
illustrator, designer of jewellery the site of a castle
and wallpaper, Mathurin that was destroyed
Méheut (1888–1958) was a in 1626.
multi-talented artist. One The Haras
of the earliest exponents of National, in Place
Art Nouveau, Méheut was du Champ-de-
commissioned to design the Foire, in the west
interior decoration of 27 liners. of Lamballe, is the
This included producing four second-largest
oil paintings for the Normandie. national stud in
After World War II, he was France. Set up
appointed painter to the in 1825, it was
French Navy and produced
many fishing scenes. In 1923, well regarded in
a retrospective exhibition the early 20th
of his work was held in century, and is still
San Francisco. important today.
It has capacity for
400 animals, and The Maison du Bourreau, in Lamballe, which houses the
the horses bred Musée Mathurin-Méheut
here include
Breton post-horses, showing children’s films, and
thoroughbreds and children’s workshops with a
Connemaras, thus helping historical theme.
to preserve these breeds.
+ Château de La Hunaudaye
G Haras National On the D28. Tel (02) 96 34 82 10.
Place du Champ-de-Foire. 8 Apr–Jun: daily pm; Jul–mid-Sep:
Tel (02) 96 50 06 98. 8 Jul–mid-Sep: daily. & ∑ la-hunaudaye.com
several daily; other times: 2:30pm E Musée d’Art Populaire
daily (more in French school hols). &
Mathurin Méheut, a pioneering du Pays de Lamballe
Hosté du Pilori. Tel (02) 96 34
exponent of Art Nouveau Environs 77 63. Open Jun–Sep: Tue–Sat.
Northeast of Lamballe, & ∑ alp22400.net
not far from Pléven, are the
and Gothic styles. The ruins of the restored Château P Musée Mathurin-Méheut
north door, dating from the de La Hunaudaye. Of Maison du Bourreau. Tel (02) 96
12th century, has capitals parti cular interest are the 31 19 99. Open Apr–Jun & Sep–Oct:
carved with foliage. The thick 15th-century keep, pierced Tue–Sat; Jul–Aug: Tue–Sat, Sun pm;
columns and floral motifs by arrowslits; the seigneurial Nov–Dec: Tue–Sat pm. Closed Jan–
in the nave show Norman quarters, which have Mar. &
influence, while the a fine Renaissance R Collégiale Notre-Dame-
Flamboyant Gothic rood staircase; and two de-Grande-Puissance
screen (1415) is perfectly 13th-century towers. Rue Notre-Dame. Open call tourist
counterbalanced by the In August there is an office for information. 8 early Jul–
Louis XIII organ loft of 1741. open-air cinema late Aug.















The charming medieval village of Moncontour, perched on a promontory




110-111_EW_Brittany.indd 111 11/3/16 12:42 PM

112  BRIT T AN Y REGION B Y REGION


monumental stairway. There
is also a formal garden.
+ Château de Bienassis
Sur la D786. Tel (02) 96 72 22 03.
8 mid-Apr–mid-Jun: Wed, Fri & Sun
pm; mid-Jun–mid-Sep: Mon–Sat, Sun
pm; phone ahead at other times. &

l Sables-d’Or-les-
Pins
Road map: E1. 8 km (5 miles)
southwest of Cap Fréhel via the
D34a. * 2,100. @ £ Lamballe.
n Fréhel; (02) 96 41 57 23. ( Tue.
This coastal resort with smart
villas in the neo-Norman style
was created in the early 1920s as
a rival to Deauville. With a 3-km
The Château de Bienassis, near Pléneuf-Val-André (2-mile) long sandy beach and
pine trees, it is very popular
k Pléneuf-Val- 4 Pauline with holidaymakers.
André Port de Dahouët. Tel (02) 96 63 10 99.
Open Jun–Sep: daily; Oct–May: by Environs
Road map: D1. @ £ Lamballe. arrangement; pre-booking essential. Erquy, on the D786 west of
* 3,770. n Cours Winston-Churchill; Sables-d’Or, is renowned for its
(02) 96 72 20 55. ( Tue in Pléneuf; Environs clams and scallops. It is also the
Fri in Val-André. _ Fête du Nautisme & The Château de Bienassis, base for a large fleet of deep-
regatta (early Aug); jazz (Jul–Aug: every 4 km (3 miles) east of Pléneuf- sea trawlers. Of all the beaches
Tue); Pardon de Notre-Dame-de-la-
Garde (Aug); Fête de la Mer (mid-Aug). Val-André, was built in 1400 nearby, the Plage de Caroual is
and has been remodelled the best. In summer, the tourist
Originally no more than a several times since. The only office organizes boat trips to the
quiet fishing harbour, Pléneuf- surviving original part is a Île de Bréhat (see p104) and
Val-André was transformed tower behind the chateau. the Baie de St-Brieuc (see p109).
in the late 19th century, Destroyed during the Wars Cap d’Erquy is less well
when developers turned it of the Holy League (see p50), known than Cap Fréhel, yet it
into one of Brittany’s most the chateau was rebuilt in the is one of the most beautiful
sophisticated holiday resorts. 17th century: the part framed headlands in Brittany. Many
With a beautiful sandy beach by towers dates from this phase. marked footpaths cross the
2 km (1 mile) long, it soon The interior contains Breton flower-covered heath here and
became very popular. Renaissance furniture and a run along the indented cliffs,
From the 16th century, beneath which are shingle
fishermen from the neigh- beaches. The views from the
bouring village of Dahouët headland are stunning; to
came to Pléneuf-Val-André to the west, there is a panorama
prepare for cod-fishing expe- across the Baie de St-Brieuc and
ditions off Newfoundland. In to Pointe de Pléneuf beyond.
those days, ships’ captains One of the paths on the
would call at local inns to enlist promontory passes an oppidum
sailors, whose drunken ness popularly known as Caesar’s
would guarantee that they Camp; it was, in fact, a fortified
signed up without protest. Gaulish settlement and its Iron
From Pléneuf-Val-André, two Age earthworks are still visible.
walks, to Pointe de la Guette Classified in 1978, the site was
and to Pointe de Pléneuf, offer bought by the local authority
spectacular views. The Îlot du in 1982 so as to protect it from
Verdelet, opposite Pointe de erosion caused by motorcyclists
Pléneuf, is a bird sanctuary, using it as a rough circuit. In
accessible at low tide. Trips out summer, walks on Cap d’Erquy
to sea on the sailing boat are organized by the Grand
Pauline are organized during The fishing port of Erquy, base of many Site Cap d’Erquy-Cap Fréhel
the holiday season. deep-sea trawlers (02 96 41 50 83).
For hotels and restaurants see pp225–6 and pp235–7


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C Ô TES D ’ ARMOR  113


c St-Cast-Le Guildo
Road map: E1. @ £ Lamballe.
* 3,290. n Place Charles-de-Gaulle;
(02) 96 41 81 52. ( Mon & Fri.
_ Concerts (Jul–Aug).
Now a popular coastal
resort, St-Cast-Le Guildo has
no less than seven beaches,
and in summer its population
increases ten-fold. Its
expansion began at the end
of the 19th century, when the
painter Marinier purchased
the headland and set about
developing it.
The ruins of the Château
du Guildo, in the parish of
Fort La Latte, built in the 13th century, with a commanding view of the sea Créhen, recall the fratricidal
conflict between Giles of
z Cap Fréhel x Fort La Latte Brittany, son of Jean V, Duke of
Brittany, whose allegiance was
Road map: E1. n Fréhel; (02) 96 Road map: E1. 4 km (3 miles)
41 57 23. Ó Mid-Jun–mid-Sep & southwest of Cap Fréhel via the D16. to the English crown, and his
school holidays: daily. g Compagnie n Fréhel; (02) 96 41 57 23. 8 Apr– brother François I of Brittany, a
Corsaire Dinard/St Malo; 08 25 13 81 Sep: daily; Oct–Mar: Sat & Sun pm; supporter of the king of France.
00. ∑ compagniecorsaire.com winter school holidays: daily pm. François murdered Giles, but
g Compagnie Corsaire Dinard/St the latter had prayed to God
The spectacular headland of Cast, St Malo; 08 25 13 81 00. that his brother might outlive
Cap Fréhel is one of the most him by just 40 days; François
beautiful landscapes in Brittany. This impressive fortress indeed died exactly 40 days
Heathland covered with heather overlooking the sea was built later. It was not until 1758
and gorse stretches to infinity, in the 13th century by the that the English, who suffered
and sheer pink limestone cliffs powerful Goyon-Matignon defeat at St-Cast, finally
rise vertically from the sea to family. It was captured by relinquished their intentions of
heights of 70 m (230 ft). Bertrand du Guesclin (see p47) invading the coast of Brittany.
The view from here stretches in 1379 and was besieged by From here, visitors may
from Pointe du Grouin in the the English in 1490, then by enjoy two walks along part
east to the Île de Bréhat in the Holy League in 1597. On of the GR34 long-distance
the west. In clear weather, it Vauban’s orders, Garangeau footpath. One goes south
is even possible to see the (see p86) restored it in the to Pointe de la Garde, which
Channel Islands. A number 17th century. The keep and the offers a beautiful panorama of
of sea birds, such as fulmars, cannon-ball foundry are of the Ebihens archipelago and
kittiwakes, cormorants, particular interest to visitors. Presqu’île St-Jacut; the other
guillemots and pied oyster- From the rampart walk, there goes north, to the Pointe de
catchers, nest in nooks in the is a sublime view of the Côte St-Cast, which commands a
cliffs and on the neighbouring d’Émeraude. Abandoned in the fine view of Fort La Latte and
small islands. 19th century, the fort passed Cap Fréhel.
There are two lighthouses into private ownership in 1892, The fort and Cap Fréhel can
on the promontory: one built and was classified as a historic also be admired from the sea
by Vauban in the 17th century monument in 1931. by taking a trip in the Dragous,
and the other dating from 1950. an old sailing boat, which leaves
The latter is open to visitors; from St-Cast-Le-Guildo.
the effort of climbing to the The town’s church
top is rewarded by the view. In contains a 12th-century
summer, the Grand Site Cap Romanesque stoup decorated
d’Erquy-Cap Fréhel organizes with grotesques and a statue
walks on the promontory. Trips of St Cast, the monk who
by motorboat from Dinard and established a hermitage
St-Malo allow visitors to admire here in the 6th century.
the cliffs from the sea.
4 Dragous
 Lighthouse Port de St-Cast. Tel (02) 96 41 71 71.
Tel (02) 96 41 57 23 (Fréhel tourist The spectacular headland at Cap Fréhel, Open Jul–Aug: daily; Easter–Nov:
office). 8 Apr–Oct. & with sheer limestone cliffs by arrangement. &




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114  BRIT T AN Y REGION B Y REGION

v Street-by-Street: Dinan

In the words of Victor Hugo, Dinan perches “on an
overhanging precipice…like a swal low’s nest”.
From the 14th to the 18th cen turies, a flourishing
trade in linen cloth, leather, wood and cereals –
cargoes that left Dinan from its harbour on the
Rance – led to the creation of an exceptionally
rich archi tectural heritage: the old town has some
extremely fine half-timbered houses. The town is
enclosed by 3 km (2 miles) of walls that are both . Basilique St-Sauveur
the most massive and the oldest in Brittany. The This is built in a style combining Gothic
and Romanesque influences.
14th-century machicolated keep, as well as the D U
Basilique St-Sauveur, with a magnificent
R U E W A L D E C K R O U S S E A U
Romanesque porch, are some of the other
attractions of this medieval town. R . V I C T O R B A S C H
R U E








RUE NÉEL DE LA VIGNE
P L A C E
S A I N T
S A U V E U R
Tour Ste-Catherine RUE MICHEL
RUE DU REMPART
One of the oldest towers
in the town’s 13th-century R U E H AU T E V O I E R U E D E L’A P
walls commands a splendid
panorama of the harbour
and the Rance valley.
D U J E R Z U A L R U E D E L A
R U E P O I S S O N N E R I E P O R T
R U E
R U E D E L’ É C O L E
R U E D E L A
D U
P E T I T F O R T L A I N E R I E


Tour du Gouverneur

Porte de RUE DE LA GARAYE
St-Malo




Porch of the Hôtel P R O M E N A D E D E S G R A N D S F O S S É S
. Rue de Jerzual Beaumanoir
Until 1852, when the viaduct was The street entrance of this
built, travellers entering Dinan residence is framed by a
would follow this street, which stone archway decorated
was once a steep track. with carved dolphins.
For hotels and restaurants see pp225–6 and pp235–7


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DINAN  115



. Castle and
Town Walls
The castle consists of
a keep, the Tour de
Coëtquen and the
0 metres 100 Porte du Guichet. The
0 yards 100 14th-century keep
houses a museum of
local history.
Benedictine
monastery

G É N É R A L DE GA ULLE Key
Suggested route
R U E W A L D E C K R O U S S E A U R U E D E L É H O N R U E D U C H ÂT E A U l’Horloge
Tour de
R . V I C T O R B A S C H





P L A C E
RU E D E L’ H O R LO G E P L A C E D U C H A M P P E T I T S
P L A C E R . S T E C L A I R E D U G U E S C L I N F O S S É S
S A I N T
S A U V E U R




D E S In the heart of the old town, the Place des
. Place des Merciers
R U E H AU T E V O I E R U E D E L’A P
R U E D E L A MERCIERS RUE DE LA FREEONNERIE Merciers (Haberdashers’ Square) is lined
P O I S S O N N E R I E P O R T
RUE DE LA CHAUX
PL. DES
with medieval timber-framed houses.
J E R Z U A L
Among these is Restaurant de la Mère
Pourcel, a 15th-century timber-framed
R U E D E L’ É C O L E L A I N E R I E CORDELIERS G R A N D E RUE DU MARCHIX PROMENADE building with overhanging upper storey.
R U E D E L A
PLACE DES
RUE DE LA GARAYE RUE DE LA BOULANGERIE R U E D U C LO S
P L AC E



RUE DE LA CROIX



Franciscan Monastery
Built in the 13th century, this
P R O M E N A D E D E S G R A N D S F O S S É S
former Franciscan monastery
now houses a private school.



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116  BRIT T AN Y REGION B Y REGION


Exploring Dinan a Franciscan friar. Several
15th-century buildings survive.
The history of Dinan is closely linked to events in Breton Among them are the Gothic
political history. In about 1000, noblemen from a family cloisters, the main courtyard and
called Dinan took possession of the town and, in 1283, it the chapter house, which is used
came under the control of the duchy of Brittany. Dinan as a refectory by the school that
now occupies the monastery.
enjoyed an initial period of prosperity thanks to its maritime
trading links with Flanders and England, and to the trade in R Église St-Malo
linen sheets and cloth. In the 14th century, the Wars of the Grande-Rue. Open daily, 9am–4pm.
Breton Succession, during which Dinan supported the king of Closed to visitors during services.
France, curtailed the town’s development. However, from the The church, with a slate-covered
bell-turret, was begun in the
16th century, Dinan was again prosperous and it enjoyed a 15th century and completed
second golden age in the 17th and 18th centuries. This can 400 years later. The exterior
be seen from the fine timber-framed houses that line the has a remarkable Renaissance
town’s streets. At this time, religious orders also established doorway. Pillaged during the
several large convents and founded new churches in Dinan. Revolution, the interior is
somewhat bare, apart from
more recent addi tions such as
the high altar (1955) in granite
carved by Gallé and a series of
stained-glass windows (1927)
by Merklen, depicting various
quarters of Dinan, such as the
Jerzual and Place des Cordeliers.
R Basilique St-Sauveur
Place St-Sauveur. Open daily,
9am–4pm. Closed to visitors during
services.
Built in a combination of
Romanesque and Gothic styles,
the basilica is unique in Brittany.
The old town of Dinan, on the banks of the Rance It was founded by a knight
who had safely re turned from
P Old Town and Harbour The Hôtel de Keratry, a a crusade against the Saracens.
In the harbour, the commercial 16th-century mansion with Begun in the 12th century, it
activity that once brought Dinan granite columns, is housed at was not com pleted until the
such riches has been replaced No 6 Rue de l’Horloge. 16th century.
by a flotilla of pleasure boats. The The façade has a remarkable
leafy banks of the Rance offer P Town Walls Romanesque doorway carved
the opportunity of scenic walks. These were built in the
Rue du Quai leads to Rue du 13th century and strengthened
Petit-Fort. At No. 24 is the in the 15th century by François
Maison du Gouverneur, a fine I, Duke of Brittany. They were
15th-century residence. Before renovated in the 17th century
the viaduct was built in 1852, by Garangeau (see p86) on the
travellers would enter Dinan via orders of Vauban. The walls
Porte du Jerzual, a 14th-century are set with 10 towers, the
gate with Gothic arcades. They most impressive of which is
would then follow Rue du the Tour Beaumanoir.
Jerzual, which is lined with Two walks along the walls,
timber-framed houses dating the Promenade de la Duchesse
from the 15th and 16th centuries. Anne and the Promenade des
Once filled with traders, the Grands Fossés, offer views of
street has been taken over by the town and of the Rance.
cabinet-makers and gilders.
Rue de l’Apport has several P Franciscan Monastery
well-restored houses. This street Place des Cordeliers. Open Jul–Aug:
leads to Place des Merciers, Mon–Fri.
which also contains attractive This former monastery was
houses with wooden porches established in the 13th century Rue du Petit-Fort, lined with fine
and overhanging upper storeys. by a Crusader who became 15th-century houses
For hotels and restaurants see pp225–6 and pp235–7


116-117_EW_Brittany.indd 116 11/3/16 12:42 PM

DINAN  117


VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Birth of a Legend
In 850, some monks dressed in rags met King Practical Information
Nominoë (see p43) and asked him to help them. Road map: E2. * 15,000. n 9
The king agreed on condition that he be given Rue du Château; (02) 96 87 69 76.
8 Apr–Jun & Sep: Sat; Jul–Aug:
some relics in return. To fulfil this obligation,
the monks set sail for Sark, in the Channel daily. ( Thu. _ Festival de Harpe
Islands, where they found the body of St Celtique (second week in Jul); Fête
Magloire (525–605), Bishop of Dol. On their des Remparts (every 2 years from
2016; third weekend in Jul); Fête de
return, the king fell to his knees before the la Pomme (first weekend in Nov).
relic and founded the Prieuré de ∑ dinan-tourisme.com
Relic of St Magloire St-Magloire-de-Lehon.
Transport
£ @ Place du
with depictions of the vices and leader of the Holy League 11-Novembre-1918.
with such monstrosities as sirens, (see p50), the castle withstood
human-headed serpents and attack by Protestant soldiers
a toad at a woman’s breast. but, with the help of the people
The interior combines the of Dinan, Henri IV managed
Romanesque and to break through the Porte de
Flamboyant Gothic styles. St-Malo. The keep, built in
The heart of Bertrand 1380, must have served both
du Guesclin (see p47) is as a fortress and as living
entombed in the north quarters, as it features
transept. There are also spy-holes and lookouts
some fine stained-glass as well as mullioned
windows, both ancient windows and monumental
and modern. chimneys. A platform at the
The former cemetery top of the keep offers a
is now a terraced garden magnificent view of Dinan
with a view of the Rance and its environs.
valley. In the garden are Tour Coëtquen, with
busts of the explorer tomb effigies, was built
Auguste Pavie and of Statue from the castle in the 15th century,
Néel de la Vigne, mayor nearly a hundred years The colourful garden of the Maison d'Artiste
of Dinan during the Revolution. after its keep was built. de la Grande-Vigne
The museum of local
P Tour de l’Horloge history, which is located in (1895–1993), an artist who
Rue de l’Horloge. Tel (02) 96 87 02 26. the keep, displays interesting was a pupil and friend of
Open Easter–May: daily pm; archaeological artifacts, Mathurin Méheut (see p111) .
Jun–Sep: daily. & paintings and sculpture. Among the 4,000 works that
The top of the tower offers Jean-Haffen bequeathed to the
impressive views of Dinan. E Maison d’Artiste de la town are engravings, ceramics
The bell was a gift from Anne Grande-Vigne and watercolours depicting
of Brittany in 1507. 103 Rue du Quai. Tel (02) 96 87 90 80. scenes of Brittany.
Open mid-Jun–Sep: daily pm. & Exhibited in rotation, these
P Benedictine Monastery This house was the home works illustrate a variety
Rue de Léhon. Open Mon–Fri. of Yvonne Jean-Haffen of themes.
Built in the 17th and 18th
centuries, the monastery now
houses a private school where
Chateaubriand (see p75) was
once a pupil.
+ Castle & Museum
Rue du Château. Tel (02) 96 39 45 20.
Open Jun–Sep: daily; Easter–May;
Oct–Dec: daily pm. Closed Jan–
Easter. &
The castle consists of a
14th-century keep, the
13th-century Porte du Guichet
and the Tour de Coëtquen.
Strengthened by Mercœur, Tour de Coëtquen, built by the architect Estienne Le Fur




116-117_EW_Brittany.indd 117 11/3/16 12:42 PM

118-119_EW_Brittany.indd 118 11/3/16 1:02 PM

BRIT T AN Y REGION B Y REGION  119

NORTHERN

FINISTÈRE


Two very distinct geographical and historical entities make up
northern Finistère. West of the Morlaix river lies the territory of the
former diocese of the Léon, whose religious and economical capital
was St-Pol. East of Morlaix is a small section of the Trégor, the
neighbouring diocese that became part of Finistère after the Revolution.


The Trégor Finistérien, that part of the inhabitants who, from the 13th century,
Trégor annexed to Finistère, is a charming had grown rich through the thriving
part of Brittany, a patchwork of valleys linen cloth trade.
and sunken lanes. The Léon, by contrast, The Bas-Léon, surrounded on three
is a large plateau that in the 1960s was sides by the sea (the Abers, the Mer
stripped of its trees to maximize intensive d’Iroise and the Rade de Brest), has
agriculture. This is especially true quite a different landscape. Here are
of the Haut-Léon, a prime producer of wide deserted beaches and narrow
artichokes and cauliflowers. Its commercial secret creeks, wooded estuaries and
dynamism even led to the creation of cliffs topped by light houses, banks of
Brittany Ferries, founded to export the dunes and wind swept promontories.
Léon’s prized local produce. In the extreme west, battered by the
Commercially successful, the Haut- Atlantic Ocean, lies Ouessant, the end
Léon is also deeply religious. Not for of the known world in ancient times,
nothing is it known as “the land of priests”, and the low-lying islands of the Molène
and it boasts some of Brittany’s archipelago, which, like the Monts d’Arrée
architectural jewels: the parish closes, and the magical forest of Huelgoat, form
built with funds provi ded by local rural part of the Parc Régional d’Armorique.


























Halyards and stays coiled and hung to dry on belaying pins after fishing
Cavalry dating from 1581 to 1588, Passion of Christ in Guimiliau parish in Finistère



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120  BRIT T AN Y REGION B Y REGION

Exploring Northern Finistère

The northern part of Finistère, meaning
“Land’s End”, consists of several protected
environments. Among these are the Baie de
Morlaix, the heathland of the Monts d’Arrée
(see pp146–7), the dunes of Keremma, the
deeply indented Côte des Abers and the
Ouessant archipelago, battered by wind and
spray. As the distances between these areas
are small, it is easy to explore them while
also stopping off to visit the chateaux, manor
houses and parish closes that make up the
rich architectural heritage of the area, once
the diocese of Léon. Alternating between
coastal and inland areas, particularly around The church at Lannédern, north of Pleyben
Landerneau and Landivisiau, visitors will ÎLE DE BATZ
appreciate the many facets of this rugged
region, which is bathed in a pearly light. ROSCOFF
Plougasnou St-Jean-
Sibiril Térénez du-Doigt Locquirec
Cleder
Brignogan ST-POL- CARANTEC
Guimaec
Keremma PLOUESCAT DE-LÉON Taulé Plouézoc’h Lannion
C Ô T E D E S A B E R S Ploudalmézeau Plouguerneau Lanhouarneau CHÂTEAU DE KERJEAN MORLAIX Guingamp,
GOULVEN
Château de
Lilia
Kergournadeac’h
Aber
Wrac’h
Aber Wrac’h
LESNEVEN
Lannilis
Plouigneau
Portsall
LE FOLGOËT
Aber Benoît
St-Brieuc
BODILIS
ST-THÉGONNEC
Argenton
GUIMILIAU
Lanildut Plabennec Landivisiau LAMPAUL- Pleyber-Christ Plougonven
LA ROCHE-
Gouesnou MAURICE GUIMILIAU
Lampaul
Île Plouarzel LANDERNEAU LA MARTYRE FINISTÈRE
d’Ouessant ST-RENAN
Menhir de Commana
Kerloas Sizun Berrien
Île BREST Océanopolis M O N T S D ' A R R É E
Molène Brennilis
OUESSANT ARCHIPELAGO
LE CONQUET St-Rivoal HUELGOAT
Rade de
POINTE Brest PLOUGASTEL- DAOULAS Montagne
St-Michel
ST-MATHIEU DAOULAS
St-Herbot
Quimper
Pleyben Carhaix-Plouguer
Sights at a Glance q Côte des Abers pp132–3 s Bodilis
1 Morlaix pp122–5 w St-Renan d Lampaul-Guimiliau
2 Carantec e Le Conquet f Guimiliau
3 St-Pol-de-Léon r Pointe St-Mathieu g St-Thégonnec
4 Roscoff t Ouessant Archipelago pp135–7 h Huelgoat
5 Île de Batz y Brest pp138–41
6 Plouescat u Plougastel-Daoulas Tour
7 Château de Kerjean pp130–31 i Daoulas j Monts d’Arrée
8 Goulven o Landerneau
9 Lesneven p La Roche-Maurice
0 Le Folgoët a La Martyre
For hotels and restaurants see pp226–7 and pp238–9
120-121_EW_Brittany.indd 120 11/3/16 1:02 PM

NOR THERN FINISTÈRE  121










0 kilometres 20
0 miles 10



The small town on the Île de Batz


ÎLE DE BATZ
Getting Around
Morlaix and Brest, the two
ROSCOFF major towns in northern
Plougasnou St-Jean- Finistère, are linked by a
Sibiril Térénez du-Doigt Locquirec motorway, the N12, and by the
Cleder
Brignogan ST-POL- CARANTEC TGV (high-speed train) service.
Guimaec
Keremma PLOUESCAT DE-LÉON Taulé Plouézoc’h Lannion The TGV journey time between
these two towns is about 35
C Ô T E D E S A B E R S Ploudalmézeau Plouguerneau Lanhouarneau CHÂTEAU DE KERJEAN MORLAIX Guingamp, a ferry terminal for services to
GOULVEN
Château de
minutes. The port of Roscoff,
Lilia
Kergournadeac’h
Aber
Wrac’h
and from Britain and Ireland, is
Aber Wrac’h
LESNEVEN
served by buses and TER trains
Lannilis
Plouigneau
Portsall
LE FOLGOËT
run by the French state railway
Aber Benoît
St-Brieuc
company, SNCF. Several coach
BODILIS
ST-THÉGONNEC
Argenton
Cars de l’Élorn, Kreisker and Le
GUIMILIAU
Roux) provide regular links
Lanildut Plabennec Landivisiau LAMPAUL- Pleyber-Christ Plougonven companies (such as Bihan, CAT,
LA ROCHE-
Gouesnou MAURICE GUIMILIAU between the towns of the
Lampaul Léon. Particularly scenic routes
Île Plouarzel LANDERNEAU LA MARTYRE FINISTÈRE
d’Ouessant ST-RENAN are the coast roads D73
Menhir de Commana (Morlaix to Carantec), D76
Kerloas Sizun Berrien (Plouézoc’h to Térénez) and
Île BREST Océanopolis M O N T S D ' A R R É E D127 (Portsall to Argenton),
Molène Brennilis as well as those that follow the
OUESSANT ARCHIPELAGO
LE CONQUET St-Rivoal HUELGOAT
Rade de estuaries of the Côte des Abers
POINTE Brest PLOUGASTEL- DAOULAS Montagne and along the banks of the
St-Michel
ST-MATHIEU DAOULAS
St-Herbot Élorn (D712 and D30) and
Queffleuth rivers (D769).
Quimper
Pleyben Carhaix-Plouguer
Key
Major road
Secondary road
Minor road
Main railway
Minor railway
Regional border Wooded countryside around St-Rivoal, southeast of Sizun
For keys to symbols see back flap
120-121_EW_Brittany.indd 121 11/3/16 1:02 PM

122  BRIT T AN Y REGION B Y REGION

1 Street-by-Street: Morlaix

On the border of the Léon to the west and the
Trégor to the east, and with the sea to the north
and the Monts d’Arrée to the south, Morlaix
(Montroulez in Breton) was once one of the
largest ports on the English Channel. From early
times, ship owners, privateers and merchants
exploited to the full the town’s favourable
geographical location. Its focal point were the
docks, from which ships bound for Spain were
laden with delicate linen cloth woven inland, The Morlaix viaduct, with a pedestrian
bridge on the lower of its two levels
and those bound for Holland with salt from
Guérande, lead from the mines of Huelgoat,
leather and wine from the vine yards of Bordeaux.
In the 19th century, ships could still sail up the
estuary to a point level with Morlaix’s town
hall. Lined with arcades and warehouses,
the quays were as busy as any
modern stock exchange.

. Place des Otages
The square is lined with R U E A N G E - D E - G U E R N I S A C
17th-century mansions,
such as that at No. 15, built
for a member of the Breton
parliament, and with P L A C E S D E S O T A G E S
charming timber-framed
houses, like that at No. 32,
shown here.


PL A CE
R U E
0 metres 100 D E VIARNES
RU E C A R N OT
0 yards 100

PL A CE
É MILE G R A N D ’ R U E
SOUVESTRE
Église St-Melaine and Viaduct R U E
The impressive viaduct that
bestrides Morlaix’s old town
was built by the engineer Victor
Fenoux in 1861 to carry a stretch
of the Paris–Brest railway. The
church is dedicated to Melaine The town
(462–530), a priest who was hall was
chancellor to Hoel II, a Breton built in 1841.
king, and counsellor to Clovis,
king of France.
The old town walls are
vestiges of medieval Morlaix.


Rue Ange-de-Guernisac
is lined by houses with
slate-clad façades.
For hotels and restaurants see pp226–7 and pp238–9


122-123_EW_Brittany.indd 122 11/3/16 12:42 PM

MORLAIX  123

. No. 9 Grand’Rue VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
This was the street where
the linen cloth market was Practical Information
once held. The house at Road map C1. * 17,300.
No. 9 has a pondalez, a n Maison Pénanault, 10 Place
staircase that is typical of Charles de Gaulle; (02) 98 62 14
residences in Morlaix. The 94. ( Sat. _ Les Rues en Scène
building also features (street art festival at Morlaix and
windows with sliding surrounding villages in Sep).
shutters and 17th-century ∑ tourisme-morlaix.fr
painted beams.
Transport
£ Rue Armand-Rousseau.






Maison de la
Duchesse Anne
This is one of the fine
town houses built in
the 15th and 16th
centuries for the
nobility of Morlaix and
for rich merchants in
the linen cloth trade. Musée de Morlaix
Together with the nearby Maison à Pondalez,
this Jacobin convent houses part of the
museum’s collection. Art exhibitions are
held in the gallery space.
R U E A N G E - D E - G U E R N I S A C



PL A CE RUE AU FIL
R U E
Église St-Mathieu
D E VIARNES The tower (1548) was
RU E C A R N OT D ’ A I G U I L L O N JA C OBINS once crowned by a
PL A CE
DES
dome. Inside the
church is a rare “vierge
ouvrante”, a statue of
the Virgin and Child
that opens to reveal
the Holy Trinity.
G R A N D ’ R U E
R U E
PL A CE R U E D E P A R I S
SAL V ADOR P L A C E
ALLENDE D U
D O S S E N
D U
VENELLE DES ARCHERS R U E
M U R

R U E B A S S E
Key
Place Allende
is the venue for Suggested route
a Saturday market.




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124  BRIT T AN Y REGION B Y REGION

Exploring Morlaix

Morlaix sadly lost much of its character when, in 1897, its docks
were filled in and covered by two squares, the Place des Otages
and Place Cornic. Efforts are now being made to make the town
more vibrant and to renovate the historic quayside buildings –
mansions with dormer windows and houses with pondalez
(spiral staircases) – that merchants built in a more prosperous
age. Pleasure boats are the only vessels that now tie up in the
harbour, as, with the closure of the tobacco-processing plant, it
is now devoid of the ships that once serviced that industry. The
resulting loss of 2,000 jobs has forced Morlaix, the third-largest Stained-glass window in
town in the Finistère, to seek prosperity in other industries. the Église St-Mathieu

P Maison de la
Duchesse Anne
33 Rue du Mur. Tel (02) 98 88 23 26.
Open May–Sep: Mon–Sat, Sun pm
(and Sun pm Jul–Aug). Closed Oct–
Apr, public holidays. &
This house, one of several in the
region where Anne of Brittany is
reputed to have stayed, consists
of three sections, the central part
with a monumental chimney
piece rising the full height of
the building. The house also has
a stair case known as a pondalez.
This is a spiral staircase that, by
means of a walkway, allows
Timber-framed and slate-clad houses in Morlaix access to the rooms in the
different parts of the house.
R Église St-Melaine history, painting inspired by
Rue Ange-de-Guernisac. Brittany, and contemporary art.
Tel (02) 98 88 05 65. Not all of the collection can be
Built in the Flamboyant Gothic displayed at the same time, so
style by the Beaumanoirs and exhibits are regularly changed.
completed in 1489, St-Melaine Pieces from the permanent
is the oldest church in Morlaix. collection are also alternated
As well as an organ built by with temporary exhibits.
Thomas Dallam in 1682, it
contains painted wooden R Église St-Mathieu Windows of the Maison
statues of saints and has fine Rue Basse. Tel (02) 98 88 05 65. de la Duchesse Anne
16th-century beams carved This church, rebuilt in 1824,
with plant motifs, angels, is notable for its tower, one P La Maison à Pondalez
animals, including ermines of the earliest examples of the 9 Grand’Rue. Tel (02) 98 88 68 88.
(emblem of Anne of Brittany) Renaissance style in Brittany, Open Oct–Jun: Tue–Sat; Jul–Sep: daily.
and, amusingly, caricatures of and for the curious statue that & 8
prominent people of the time. it contains. Made in about 1390 The house at No.9 Grand’Rue is
in a workshop in Westphalia, it another 16th-century residence
E Les Jacobins depicts the Virgin and Child but with a pondalez staircase,
Place des Jacobins. Tel (02) 98 88 opens to reveal the Holy profusely carved, and a
68 88. Open Oct–Jun: Tue– Trinity. It is especially monumental granite fireplace.
Sat; Jul–Sep: daily. & 8 precious since most The windows were designed
The main collection of such statues were to allow merchants to display
the Musée de Morlaix is destroyed after the their wares.
housed at La Maison à Council of Trent (1563): The main collection of the
Pondalez, but here, in a theologians feared that Musée de Morlaix is found here
former convent founded they might give rise to (the other is at Les Jacobins). On
in the 13th century, is the idea that the Virgin four levels, the collection details
a small collection with Furniture detail, could have engen dered the history and architecture of
several themes: local Musée de Morlaix the Holy Trinity. the town.
For hotels and restaurants see pp226–7 and pp238–9


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MORLAIX  125


in 1925. The town also has an
Caplan & Co elegant fountain decorated
This café and bookshop, which opened in with lead statues.
1933, is one of the most atmospheric
places in Finistère Nord. It is housed in a E Musée Rural du Trégor
former grocer’s shop overlooking the Le Prajou, Guimaec, 13 km (8 miles)
beach at Poul-Rodou, on the coast road northeast of Morlaix. Tel (02) 98 67 64
between Locquirec and Guimaëc. Outside, 77. Open Jul-Aug: daily; Sep–Jun:
there is a terrace with tables. Inside, where (timings vary, phone ahead). &
the décor replicates a school classroom, is The museum is housed in a
an excellent selection of books by an Caplan & Co, one of the barn on the road running
international range of authors. region’s most famous cafés between the small town of
Guimaec and the wild coast
around Beg an Fry. It contains
Environs (reached via the D46A2) and almost 2,500 traditional tools
The Trégor Finistérien, the Primel-Trégastel (via the D46). and implements of the Trégor,
small region of heath and Walkers will enjoy the including flails, gorse-crushing
woodland between Morlaix and coast path that runs round the hammers, combs for carding
Locquirec, is worth exploring, Pointe du Diben. The head land linen and cream separators.
not least for its archaeological bristles with rocks in strange
sites and beautiful coastal zoomorphic shapes, such as
landscapes. From Morlaix, take those of a dromedary and a
the D76 that runs along the sphinx. The Pointe de Trégastel
estuary to Dourduff-en-Mer. offers a wide panorama of the
English Channel, the Île de Batz
 Cairn de Barnenez and the Île Grande.
Presqu’île de Barnenez, Plouézoc’h.
Tel (02) 98 67 24 73. Open daily. & St-Jean-du-Doigt
This megalithic monument 6 km (4 miles) northeast of Morlaix
crowns the Presqu’île de via the D46. @ from Morlaix.
Barnenez. Built in about 4,500 In the late 19th century, the
BC, it is the largest and oldest pardon held in this small town
cairn in Europe. It contains 11 (Sant Yann ar Biz in Breton)
dolmens, and excavations have would attract up to 12,000 Fountain in St-Jean-du-Doigt, decorated
uncovered pottery, bones and faithful. It is named after a with lead statues
engraved motifs. From the tip of famous relic, the finger of
the peninsula, there is a superb St John the Baptist, that is kept Locquirec
view of the Château du Taureau in the church here. Road map C1. 19 km (12 miles)
(see p126), the Île Stérec and the The relic reputedly has the northwest of Morlaix on the D786
small harbour of Térénez. power to restore sight, and, then the D64. * 1,200. £ @ from
in the early 16th century, Anne Morlaix. n Place du Port;
L Plages de Plougasnou of Brittany came to seek a cure (02) 98 67 40 83. ( Wed am.
The beaches tucked away for a troublesome left eye. It was in this small fishing village
along the coast between She was healed, and building on the border between the
Térénez and St-Jean-du-Doigt of a much bigger church to Trégor and the Côtes d’Armor
are the most beautiful in the house the relic duly began in that the thick, heavy Locquirec
Trégor Finistérien. They are at 1510. The spire and three bell- slate – with which almost all
Samson, Guerzit and Port-Blanc turrets were struck by lightning local buildings are roofed – was
once mined. Locquirec (Lokireg
in Breton) is now a coastal resort,
with nine beaches, a large hotel
and a coast path that offers a fine
view of the bay. The church, with
a belfry built by Beaumanoirs in
1634, is as dainty and intimate as
the village itself. It has a painted
wooden ceiling and a charming
statue of Our Lady of Succour.
The Chapelle Notre-Dame-des-
Joies, 5 km (3 miles) further
south, has a 16th-century oak
chancel decorated with fruits,
flowers and chimeras, and a
Cairn de Barnenez, one of the most remarkable burial mounds in Europe Virgin and Child.




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126  BRIT T AN Y REGION B Y REGION


communities and seminaries –
and from its religious buildings.
The 12th-century cathedral,
which towers over the market
square, is one of the very few
churches in Brittany still to have
its original ciborium (canopy). This
one takes the form of a palm tree,
its spreading branches covered in
putti, vine leaves and ears of corn.
According to an ancient tradi tion,
the ciborium is suspended over
the altar. Other notable features
The beach at the elegant coastal resort of Carantec are a 16-petal rose window
(1431), trompe-l’œil decoration
2 Carantec + Château du Taureau on the organ, built by Robert
Open Tours including boat crossing Dallam, 16th-century choir stalls
Road map B1. * 2,800. @ from from Carantec or Plougasnou, Apr–Sep.
Morlaix. n 4 Rue Pasteur; (02) 98 67 Tel (02) 98 62 29 73. & with carvings of fabulous animals,
00 43. ( Thu am. _ Pardon de ∑ chateaudutaureau.com and reliquaries containing skulls.
Notre-Dame-de-Callot (Sun after 15 The most remarkable build ing
Aug). ∑ tourisme-morlaix.fr } Île Callot in St-Pol is, however, the
Accessible from Grève Blanche at low Chapelle Notre-Dame-du-
With the arrival of the first tide. Check with the tourist office. Kreisker, whose belfry is the
foreign visitors, between the E Musée Maritime tallest in Brittany; the climb up
1870s and the 1900s, the 8 Rue Albert-Louppe. Tel (02) 98 67 00 its 170-step spiral staircase is
history of Carantec (Karanteg 43. Open mid-Jun–mid-Sep: Fri–Wed rewarded by a breathtaking
in Breton) took a decisive turn. pm. & view of the bay, the fields
One of these visitors found forming the Ceinture Dorée
the location enchanting and, (the “golden belt” that is a prime
largely thanks to him, a 3 St-Pol-de-Léon producer of early vegetables),
fashionable coastal resort was Road map B1. * 7,400. £ and, below, the old town of
created. Its smart hotels and n Place de l’Évêché; (02) 98 69 St-Pol. From this vantage point
elegant villas no longer 05 69. ( Tue. 8 free in summer. there is a bird’s-eye view of
exist, however. ∑ saintpoldeleon.fr other jewels of St-Pol’s
The magical views here Renaissance architecture, such
can be enjoyed by following This city is the capital of Brittany’s as the Maison Prébendale
a marked footpath running artichoke- and cauliflower- (canons’ house) on Place du
from Grève Blanche to the pine growing region. St-Pol (Kastell 4-Août-1944, the Hôtel de
wood at Penn al Lann. The Paol in Breton) is named after Keroulas in Rue du Collège, and
two-hour walk takes in Porspol Pol-Aurélien, a Welsh evangelizer the Manoir de Kersaliou, on the
beach, a rocky platform known who founded a monastery here road to Roscoff, a charming
as the Chaise du Curé (Parson’s in the 6th century. Soon after, 16th-century manor house.
Chair) and another beach, Le it became the see of the diocese
Cosmeur. There are also views of Léon. The clergy’s powerful R Chapelle Notre-Dame-du-
of the Île Callot, with sandy influence here is evident both Kreisker
inlets, and the Île Louët, a small from the number of religious Town centre. Tel (02) 98 69 05 69.
island with a lighthouse and a institutions – monastic Open daily (belfry summer only). &
keeper’s cottage, as well as the
Château du Taureau. The castle
was built by the inhabitants of
Morlaix as a defence against
the incursions of English
pirates. Strengthened by
Vauban, it later became a
prison. Guided tours of the
château include not just the
garrison but also a boat trip.
In Carantec itself, the small
Musée Maritime contains
some vintage sailing boats,
including a boat in which 193
British pilots and members of
the Résistance crossed the
Channel during World War II. View of St-Pol-de-Léon from the belfry of Notre-Dame-du-Kreisker
For hotels and restaurants see pp226–7 and pp238–9


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NOR THERN FINISTÈRE  127


The Story of the Johnnies
When Henri Olivier, an inhabitant of Roscoff,
sailed for Plymouth in a ship loaded with onions,
he was unwittingly establishing a tradition.
Hundreds of agricultural workers, many of
whom were very young, followed Olivier’s
example, going from port to port in Wales,
Scotland and England selling strings of onions
to housewives, who nick named them Johnnies.
Until the 1930s, this seasonal migration was an
essential opportunity for trade, and many
families who lived on the coast of Brittany
began to adopt such British habits as drinking
tea and playing darts. They also began to speak
Breton interspersed with various English words
Johnnies with their strings of onions and expressions.
4 Roscoff 5 Île de Batz
Road map B1. * 3,700. £ @ from Road map B1. * 740. 4 4
Morlaix. g n Quai d’Auxerre; (02) 98 motorboats run by CFTM (02 98 61
61 12 13. ( Wed am. _ Pardon de 78 87), Armein (02 46 80 04 47) and
Ste-Barbe (mid-Jul); Fête de l’Oignon Armor Excursions (02 98 61 79 66)
(mid-Aug). ∑ roscoff-tourisme.com from Roscoff. n (02) 98 61 75 70.
_ Pardon de Ste-Anne (late Jul).
From the fish farms at Ste-Barbe
to the seaweed boats in the old Separated from Roscoff by a
harbour, most of Roscoff is narrow channel, the Îsle de
focused on the sea. The Église Batz (Enez Vaz in Breton) is a
Notre-Dame-de-Kroaz-Baz, small island just 4 km (3 miles)
built with funds from merchants long and 2 km (1 mile) wide.
and privateers (in 1515), has It has about 20 sandy beaches
caravels carved on its outer walls. and creeks.
Roscoff (Rosk o Gozen in The crossing from Roscoff’s
Breton), whose port handles old harbour, or from the groyne, Jardin Exotique Georges-Delaselle, the
ferry links with Plymouth, has takes only 20 min utes, and the colonial garden on the Île de Batz
a long, if stormy history with island attracts up to 4,000
Britain. Not only did Roscovites visitors a day over certain ruined Romanesque Chapelle
fight naval battles with the summer week ends. Outside de Ste-Anne and the Jardin
British and suffer their raids, they the high season, Batz is a haven Exotique George-Delaselle,
were also accomplices in of tranquility, with far fewer in the southeast of the island,
smuggling. In the 18th century, visitors than continue to flock created in 1897. Some 1,500
contraband tea, brandy and to the Île de Bréhat (see p104). plants from southern Africa,
other liquor left Roscoff to be Most of the islanders are California and New Zealand
landed in Britain. Shipowners market gardeners. The seaweed thrive in the island’s
grew prosperous, as the fine that they spread on their small gentle microclimate.
houses that they built in Rue plots of land helps produce the
Armand-Rousseau, Rue Amiral- best fruit and vegetables in Y Jardin Exotique
Réveillère and Place Lacaze- the region. Georges-Delaselle
Duthiers clearly show. From the landing stage, an Porzan Iliz. Tel (02) 98 61 75 65.
A small museum presents the alley to the right leads to the Open Apr–Oct: daily. & 8
history of the Johnnies, which
was the name given to the
Roscoff producers who went
to Great Britain to sell their
distinctive pink onions.
E Maison des Johnnies et de
l’Oignon Rose
48 Rue Brizeau. Tel (02) 98 61 25 48.
Open mid-Jun–mid-Sep: Mon pm &
Tue–Sat; mid-Sep–mid-Jun: Tue, Thu &
Fri pm (also Mon pm and Sat pm in
Apr). Closed Jan. & 8 obligatory. Île de Batz, a small treeless island with sandy beaches, off Roscoff




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128  BRIT T AN Y REGION B Y REGION


In the countryside around
Plouescat are two jewels of
religious architecture: the parish
close of Notre-Dame de Berven,
5 km (3 miles) northeast of
Plouescat, and the Chapelle
Notre-Dame-de-Lambader,
9 km (5 miles) to the east of
the town.
In the Église Notre-Dame-de-
Berven, the Virgin is traditionally
invoked to help young children
learn to walk at an early age. The
church has a stone chancel and a
wooden rood screen with reliefs
The 16th-century covered market in Plouescat, a rare sight in Brittany showing the four scenes from
the Passion of Christ. A superb
6 Plouescat fourth side, thus forming the late 16th-century Virgin of Jesse
main courtyard. The more of Flemish or Rhenish inspiration
Road map B1. 14 km (9 miles) west of
St-Pol-de-Léon via the D10. * 3,780. austere Château de Kerouzéré, stands in a shuttered niche.
@ Brest then change at Lesneven. 9 km (5 miles) east of Plouescat, Notre-Dame-de-Lambader
n 5 Rue des Halles; (02) 98 69 62 18. is a fortified castle with a has a balustraded belfry with
( Sat am. _ Horse racing in the machicolated rampart walk four corner-towers like that of
Baie du Kernic (Aug). ∑ roscoff- and thick granite walls. Built Notre-Dame-du-Kreisker in
tourisme.com between 1425 and 1458 by St-Pol-de-Léon (see p126). The
Jehan de Kerouzéré, it was Flamboyant Gothic rood screen
The two most memorable twice besieged during the Wars (1481) is flanked by a spiral
features of Plouescat (Ploueskad of the Holy League (see p50). staircase and a 16th-century
in Breton), a major coastal The Château de Maillé, 3 km statue of the Virgin that is
resort and centre of vegetable (2 miles) south of Plouescat, is carried in procession at the
production, are its beach, the different again. Remodelled in Whitsun pardon.
Plage du Pors Meur, and the about 1560 in late Renaissance
16th-century covered market, style by the Carman-Goulaine 7 Château de
one of the few remaining family, it has an elegant pavilion.
in Brittany. The most romantic of all the Kerjean
castles here is the Château de See pp130–31.
Environs Kergournadeac’h, 6 km (4 miles)
Further inland are several south of Plouescat, although it
interesting chateaux. Among is gutted. Built in the 17th 8 Goulven
them is the Château de century by the Kerc’hoënt and Road map B1. 23 km (14 miles) west
Traonjoly, an attractive Rosmadec-Molac families, it was of St-Pol-de-Léon via the D10. * 460.
Renaissance manor 4 km destroyed a century later on n Plounéour-Trez; (02) 98 83 45 03.
(3 miles) northeast of Plouescat. the orders of its owner, the
The main building is flanked by Marchioness of Granville; it is said The 16th-century church in
wings set at right angles to it. A that she feared that so beautiful Goulven has an interesting
balustraded terrace closes the a residence would keep her son interior. It contains a small
away from the royal court. altar with reliefs of the six
miracles performed by
+ Château de Traonjoly St Goulven, and painted
Cléder. Tel (02) 98 69 43 01 (Cléder wooden panels depicting the
tourist office). saint with Count Even de
+ Château de Kerouzéré Charruel, who fought at the
Sibiril. Tel (02) 98 29 96 05. 8 Jul– Battle of Thirty (see p46). The
Aug: timings vary, phone ahead. belfry, built on the model of
that of Notre-Dame-du
+ Château de Maillé Kreisker in St-Pol-de-Léon
Plounévez-Lochrist. Tel (06) 22 51 12 (see p126), overlooks a wide
96. 8phone ahead for opening and
tour times. & bay. At low tide the sea retreats
5 km (3 miles), making the
+ Château de Kergounadeac’h bay a favourite spot for sand
5 km (3 miles) south of Plouescat on yachting. It also attracts
the D30. 8 Jul–Aug: by arrangement many different species of
Château de Kerouzéré near with the tourist office in Cléder birds, including curlew, teal
Plouescat (see above). and sandpiper.
For hotels and restaurants see pp226–7 and pp238–9


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NOR THERN FINISTÈRE  129


scenes of terror that occurred in a simpleton named Salaün. He
the town in 1793, when many lived near a spring on the edge
local peasants resisted con­ of the wood near Lesneven, and
scription to the revolution ary would tirelessly repeat the
cause and were massacred by words “Ave Maria”. The villagers
Republican soldiers. nick named him fol goad (mad­
The museum also has a man of the woods). One day,
number of costumes of the 1830s in 1358, Salaün was found dead
on display, including a red silk near the spring. Some time later,
The Pontusval lighthouse, skirt, an embroidered apron and a lily sprouted on his neglected
near Brignogan a gold­embroidered bodice (see grave; it bore two words in
pp32–3), a feast­day outfit that golden letters: Ave Maria.
Environs would be worn, with a square The story of this miracle
Keremma, 3 km (2 miles) east coiffe, by the women of Kerlouan. was broadcast throughout
of Goulven, is one of the most the duchy. Jean V, Duke of
scenic places on the coast of E Musée du Léon Brittany, and the duchy’s
the Léon. It has a long string Place des 3 Piliers. Tel (02) 29 61 13 60. noble families then financed
of dunes created in 1823 by one Open Jul–Aug: Mon–Sat, Sun am; the building of a chapel in
Louis Rousseau (1787–1856). Sep–Jun: Mon, Tue pm, Wed–Sat. & Le Folgoët. This is the imposing
With his wife Emma, Rousseau Basilique Notre-Dame (1422–
purchased the marshy Plaine de 60). One of the most illustrious
Tréflez. Having installed a dyke places of pilgrimage in Brittany,
and drained the land, he built 0 Le Folgoët it has a delicate kersanton
over 80 farms and villas. This Road map B2. 20 km (13 miles) (granite) rood screen and a
newly created polder (see p77) north of Brest via the D788. * 3,094. small museum.
increased the agricultural land @ Brest. _ Grand Pardon (first
of the parish by a quarter. weekend in Sep). R Basilique Notre-Dame
Louis Rousseau’s descendants, Place de l’Eglise. Tel (02) 98 21 11 18.
who still come to spend the The name of this small town – Open 8:30am–8:30pm daily. 8 Jul–
summer here, have entrusted “Fool’s Wood” – has its origins in Aug. Museum: Open Apr–Sep, or for
the dunes to the Conservatoire a strange story. There was once groups by appointment at other times.
du Littoral, a conservation body.
The coastal resort of
Brignogan, 5 km (3 miles)
further north, has a beautiful
white sandy beach (below the
Pontusval lighthouse) and a
men marz, 8.5 m (28 ft) high,
one of a small number of
Christianized menhirs.

9 Lesneven
Road map B2. 22 km (13.5 miles)
north of Brest on the D788. * 6,920.
@ Brest or Landerneau. n Place des
3 Piliers; (02) 29 61 13 60. ( Mon.
∑ tourisme-lesneven-
cotedeslegendes.fr
Apart from some old houses –
at No. 21 Place du Général­Le­
Flô and No. 1 Rue du Comte­
Even – the main focus of
interest in Lesneven is the
Musée du Léon, housed in a
former Ursuline convent.
The collection traces local
history from prehistoric times
to the present day. Until the
Revolution, the parish was
the seat of the seneschalsy
(stewardship) of Léon. One
exhibit docu ments the frightful Basilique Notre-Dame, in Folgoët




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130  BRIT T AN Y REGION B Y REGION

7 Château de Kerjean

In 1618, Louis XIII described this stately residence as “one of the most
beautiful in the kingdom”. It was built between 1566 and 1595 by
Louis Barbier, with the fortune that his uncle Hamon, a rich canon
of St-Pol-de-Léon, had amassed. It has the characteristics both of a
traditional Breton manor and of a French chateau. The architect in
charge of the project was clearly familiar with the architectural
treatises of the period and also with Renaissance decorative motifs.
He remains anonymous, but his style was to influence future buildings
in the Léon, including the churches at Berven and Bodilis and the
parish close at St-Thégonnec. Ransacked in 1793, Kerjean was sold
to the state in 1911. It now contains a fine collection of 17th- and Dormer Windows
18th-century furniture of the Léon. The richly decorated
dormer windows
relieve the plainness
Kitchen of the façades.
This large, 6-m (20-ft) high
room has two hearths and
a bread oven.






















Pediment over the Central
Doorways Main
The doorways of the entrance
stable wing are topped by
pediments set with urns.

KEY
1 A museum of stonework is
housed in one of the guardrooms.
2 The wooden beams of the
chapel ceiling are decorated
with representations of the Four
Evangelists and Mary Magdalen.
3 Surviving walls of the part of
the chateau destroyed by fire in
1755. It contained the armoury.
4 In the projection room, a film . Main Entrance
traces the history of the chateau. Elaborate ornamentation, with caryatids and
volutes, crowns the main entrance.
For hotels and restaurants see pp226–7 and pp238–9


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NOR THERN FINISTÈRE  131


VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Road map B1. St-Vougay.
32 km (20 miles) west of Morlaix
via the N12 then the D30.
Tel (02) 98 69 93 69.
Open Feb–Jun, Sep–Oct,
Christmas hols: Wed–Mon pm;
General view of the chateau from the grounds Jul–Aug: daily. Closed Jan.
Theatre and live music: phone
for details. & 8

Well
The elegant canopy
is based on a design
provided by the
architect Androuet
du Cerceau in 1561.























. Chapel
The chapel has interesting
vaulting and contains some
fine carved reclining figures. It
is located above a room that
was used as a guardroom.


Breton Furniture at Kerjean
As well as grain bins and chests that double
as seats, Kerjean contains a few pieces of
furniture that are typical of the Léon. These
are gwele kloz (box beds), some of which are
decorated with the monograms of Christ
and of the Virgin, and pres lin (linen presses),
in which cloth was kept before it was taken
for sale. These presses are valuable items
associated with the weaving industry that
Linen press brought prosperity to the region. Box bed





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132  BRIT T AN Y REGION B Y REGION


q Côte des Abers

Three long, fjord-like indentations scar
the coastline between Brignogan and
Le Conquet. These are known as abers –
a Celtic word meaning “estuary”. They were
formed as glaciers began to melt at the end
of the Ice Age, 10,000 years ago. As the sea
level rose, sea water flowed up the valleys
far inland, where it met the fresh water of
the streams. These estuaries are very Aber Wrac’h, a popular sailing and diving centre
characteristic of this part of Brittany, and
they are strikingly different from the Key
coastline itself. There are no gleaming mud
flats along the abers but piles of rocks Suggested route
and white, sandy dunes where the local Other roads
inhabitants once spread seaweed out to dry.
J

0 kilometres 5
0 miles 3 Aber Wrac’h



Landéda

J J Lampaul- St- Pabu Aber Benoît
Trémazan Ploudalmézeau
5 Portsall
It was on the rocks beyond the Ploudalmézeau
harbour of Portsall that the Liberian
oil tanker Amoco Cadiz foundered
in 1978. The whole area has still not Argenton Plouguin
forgotten this ecological disaster.
Tragic for wildlife, the oil spill was
doubly unfortunate as the stretch Porspoder
of coastline between St-Pabu and
Argenton is one of the most
beautiful and least developed
in the Léon. J
Lanrivoaré
Aber Ildut
St-Renan
Lampaul-
Plouarzel

Le Conquet Plouarzel St-Renan


6 Lanildut
The village (Lannildud in Breton) is the largest
seaweed-processing port in France, handling almost
50 per cent of the national harvest. The coastline is
riddled with the ovens in which laminaria, a green
seaweed, was once burned to produce soda, from
which iodine was in turn extracted.

For hotels and restaurants see pp226–7 and pp238–9


132-133_EW_Brittany.indd 132 11/3/16 12:42 PM

NOR THERN FINISTÈRE  133




Mission Pictures Tips for Drivers
In 1613, Mikael Le Nobletz, a native of Plouguerneau Tour length: 56 km (35 miles).
and a zealous missionary, developed an Stopping-off places: The coast
ingenious method of teaching Christian has many crêperies where you
doctrine and backing up the teachings can enjoy a pancake and local
of the Church. On his evangelizing cider. There is also the Auberge
missions, he showed the inhabitants de Vieux Puits in Lampaul-
of local coastal parishes pictures of Plouarzel. Alternatively, the oyster
biblical scenes and parables annotated farms and bakeries in Lannilis will
in Breton. These moralizing paintings provide all you need for a picnic
(taolennou) were highly successful. on one of the small islands along
the abers (but take care not to
Used until 1950 by missionaries in become marooned by rising
other countries, they have been Le Miroir du Monde, by tides). For a night stop, there is
translated into 256 languages. Mikael Le Nobletz the Hôtel de la Baie des Anges,
350 Route des Anges, Aber
Wrac’h village.
Ruines
J d’ilizkoz
Brignogan

Aber Wrac’h


Landéda
Lannilis
Lesneven,
St- Pabu Aber Benoît Le Folgoët
1 Lilia
At 82.5 m (270 ft) high, the Île Vierge lighthouse, opposite Lilia, is
Plabennec
the tallest lighthouse in Europe. It was built in 1902 to protect
Brest shipping from treacherous rocks along a stretch of the coast
known as Bro Bagan, “pagan country”.
Plouguin









2 Plouguerneau
The Écomusée des Goémoniers de Plouguerneau is
an open-air museum, open in the summer months,
devoted to the local seaweed-gathering industry. Also
of interest is Iliz Koz, where ruins of a church engulfed
by sand in the 18th century have been uncovered.

4 Aber Benoît
A footpath runs along the 3 Aber Wrac’h Harbour
south bank of the aber. The This small fishing harbour is now a very popular stopping-
walk from the coast to the end place for pleasure boats, and has a diving centre. It is also
of the aber takes three to four an ideal base for exploring Aber Wrac’h, the longest and
hours, and reveals every aspect least developed of the three abers that indent this stretch
of the estuary. of the coast of Brittany.

For keys to symbols see back flap


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134  BRIT T AN Y REGION B Y REGION

w St-Renan
Road map: A1. 9 km (6 miles) north-
west of Brest via the D5. * 7,900. @
from Brest or Landerneau. n Place
du Vieux Marché; (02) 98 84 23 78.
( Sat. ∑ tourisme-saint-renan.fr
Until the early 17th century,
St-Renan (Lokournan in Breton)
was an important town with a
court of justice that served 37
parishes, including Brest. The The fishing harbour at Le Conquet, seen from Pointe de Kermorvan
town’s few surviving granite
or timber-framed houses, the e Le Conquet 85 lightships and 204 buoys)
finest of which are around the Road map: A2. 20 km (12 miles) installed in the 19th century
Église Notre-Dame-de-Liesse southwest of Brest via the D789. to alert seamen to the hidden
and on Place de la Mairie, date * 2,400. @ from Brest or dangers of the Mer d’Iroise.
from this period. The weekly Plougonvelin. g Île Molène & Île
market held on this square is d’Ouessant. n Parc de Beauséjour;  Phare de Trézien
widely renowned for the local (02) 98 89 11 31. ( Tue am. Trézien en Plouarzel. Tel (02) 98 89
produce sold there. _ Blessing the sea (mid-Jul). 69 46. 8 Jul–Aug: Mon–Sat pm,
The history of these markets ∑ tourismeleconquet.fr Sun; Jun & Sep: Tue am. &
and of the horse fairs for which
St-Renan was also famous is For many Bretons, the name of
illustrated in a small museum, this small, busy fishing port is
the Musée du Patrimoine associated with the radio station
(currently closed for repairs). on Pointe des Renards that,
Breton head dresses, furniture, from 1948 to 2000, broadcast
domestic objects and exhibits shipping forecasts. Le Conquet
relating to the rich tin mines (Konk Leon in Breton) has few
of the parish are also displayed. old buildings besides those
The Menhir de Kerloas stands known as the maisons anglaises
4 km (2.5 miles) west of St-Renan. (English houses), which the
Erected on a crest, it is one of English spared when they
the tallest megaliths in Brittany. attacked the port in 1558, and Lobster pots stacked on the quay
Newly married couples wanting the Chapelle Notre-Dame-de- at Le Conquet
children would come to rub their Bon-Secours, which contains
abdomens against the stone. mission pictures invented by r Pointe
Mikeal an Nobletz (see p133).
E Musée du Patrimoine By contrast, the coast St-Mathieu
16 Rue St-Mathieu. Closed for between Le Conquet and Road map: A2. 22 km (14 miles)
renovation; contact the St-Renan Lampaul-Plouarzel has some southwest of Brest via the D789 then
tourist office for further information. splendid and varied landscapes the D85. £ from Brest, changing
for walkers. Beyond the at Plougonvelin. n Trez Hir in
Presqu’île de Kermorvan, a Plougonvelin, Boulevard de la Mer.
peninsula that offers a fine Tel (02) 98 48 30 18.
view of the Île Molène and Île
d’Ouessant, the long-distance The lighthouse on Pointe
footpath GR34 runs along the St-Mathieu, built in 1835, is
dunes of Blancs-Sablons, the open to visitors. Its beams
beach at Porsmoguer and the project 60 km (37 miles) across
cliffs of Le Corsen, 12 km (7.5 the Mer d’Iroise and its many
miles) to the north. On this reefs, including those known
rocky headland, the most as Les Vieux-Moines and La
westerly point in France, Chaussée des Pierres-Noires.
stands CROSS, the centre that At the foot of the lighthouse
coordinates rescue operations are the ruins of a monastery
and monitors maritime traffic that was probably founded in
in the approaches to Ouessant. the 6th century. At nightfall, the
The Trézien lighthouse, Benedictine monks who settled
2 km (1 mile) northeast, is in this windswept abbey in 1656
open to visitors. It is part of would light a fire at the top of
Timber-framed houses on Place du the navigation aids (17 light- the church tower in order to
Marché in St-Renan houses on land and 13 at sea, guide ships.
For hotels and restaurants seepp226–7 and pp238–9


134-135_EW_Brittany.indd 134 11/3/16 1:02 PM

NOR THERN FINISTÈRE  135

t Ouessant
Archipelago
Road map: A1. * 1,207.
g Motorboats run by Penn Ar Bed
(02 98 80 80 80). Flights from Finist’Air,
(02) 98 84 64 87. n Place de L’Eglise,
Ouessant (02) 98 48 85 83.
∑ ot-ouessant.fr
Battered by strong westerly
winds and lashed by the sea,
the seven islands and dozen
islets that make up the Ouessant
archipelago lie some 20 km Pointe St-Mathieu, where Benedictine monks once settled
(13 miles) off the mainland. Only
two of the islands – Ouessant From the top of the former it to be the final gateway to
(Eussa in Breton) and Molène signal station there is a view of the Otherworld.
(Molenez) are inhabited. Each the islands of the archipelago: A striking feature of Ouessant
of these islands preserves its Beniget, with a population of is that it is divided into extremely
identity and rich natural wild rabbits, and Banneg, small parcels of land, of which
environment and wildlife. Balaneg and Trielen, which there are about 55,000. The
With heathland lapped by the were inhabited until the 1950s population is widely spread
waves, piles of lichen-covered and which are over 92 hamlets and a small
rocks and an exceptionally today classified main town, Lampaul.
varied plant life that thrives nature reserves. The parish church of St-Pol-
in the moist salt air, the They are home to Aurélien, in Lampaul, has a
fascinating Ouessant a small colony of spire that was built with funds
archipelago is a otters, shelducks provided by the British crown.
world like Shelduck on the and gulls, and 120 Queen Victoria wished to thank
no other. In Ile d’Ouessant species of plants, the islanders for their valiant
1989 Unesco declared including the curiously actions after the Drummond
it a World Biosphere Reserve. named Sabot du Petit Jésus Castle was shipwrecked off
Just 1.2 km (0.75 mile) long (Baby Jesus’s Slipper) and the coast of Ouessant in 1896.
and 800 m (875 yds) wide, the Cierge de Marie (Mary’s Walkers who do not have
Île Molène can be walked Candle). The island’s time to explore the whole
around in half an hour. At first Semaphore de Molène island should make for the
sight, the tiny bare, low-lying houses a museum with northwestern part, starting
island’s only interesting feature interactive displays on the with a visit to the open-air
is a small town of 277 inhabitants daily life of a watchman. museum in Le Niou Huella
huddled behind a breakwater. The largest and highest and the Musée des Phares
But Molène deserves a closer island in the archipelago, the et Balises (see pp136–7).
look: it is a welcoming place in Île d’Ouessant is a wild granite
which to linger. Quirkily, it keeps plateau. With its rugged E Sémaphore de Molène
English time. It offers one great landscapes, the island has Île Molène. Tel (02) 98 07 39 47.
advantage – no cars – and three been the subject of the most Open May & Jun: 9am–6pm Sat &
specialities: lobster, seaweed- fanciful legends. In ancient Sun; Jul–Sep: 9am–6pm daily; call
smoked sausage and sea rescue. times, the Celts considered ahead for rest of year.
















The Ile d’Ouessant, the largest and highest island in the Ouessant archipelago, seen from Corz




134-135_EW_Brittany.indd 135 11/3/16 1:02 PM

136  BRIT T AN Y REGION B Y REGION

Exploring Ouessant symbolizing the body of a
sailor lost at sea. The Phare
With its 45km (28 miles) of coastal paths and its de Créac’h, which towers over
breathtakingly beautiful landscape, Ouessant attracts some the surrounding heathland,
120,000 visitors – walkers and city-dwellers in search of fresh is one of the most powerful
air – every year. The island’s wildness is accentuated by its lighthouses in the world,
with a beam that carries for
location. At the point where the Atlantic Ocean and English 80 nautical miles (150 km/93
Channel meet, Ouessant is ceaselessly washed by waves miles). Since it was inaugurated
and salt spray. in 1863, its xenon lamps (which
emit two white flashes every
10 seconds) have guided more
than 100,000 vessels through
one of the busiest and most
hazardous shipping lanes – the
infamous Ouessant strait linking
the Atlantic Ocean and the
English Channel.
The Musée des Phares et
Balises, on the subject of
lighthouses and buoys, has
The Phare du Stiff, and to the right, a radar station, on Ouessant
Lampaul, 4km (2.5 miles) from the houses contains pieces of
the landing stage, is Ouessant’s furniture made with peñse an
main town. A good place to start aod (wood from wrecks washed
out from on an exploration of up on the shore) and painted in
the island is the hamlet of Niou blue, white and other bright
Huella, where the Écomusée colours, the remains of the paint
d’Ouessant opened in 1968. used to decorate the hulls of
This open-air museum has ships. The other house contains
two traditional houses which a display of tools, costumes,
themselves make a perfect souvenirs of shipwrecks and
introduction to the island’s objects relating to the ritual of Exhibits in the Musée des Phares
history and traditions. One of the proëlla, a small wax candle et Balises, in the Phare de Créac’h


Key
Presqu’ile de
Main road Cadoran
Minor road
Île de Baie de
Phare
Track Keller Béninou du Stiff
Footpath
Ferry route Porz Baie du Moléne, Lanildut,
Yusin Stiff Le Conquet, Brest
Frugullou
Phare de Niou Pen ar
Créac’h Lan Phare de
Pointe Huella
de Créac’h Men Korn
Loqueltas Lampaul Porz ar
Lan
Corz
Pointe
de Pern Porzgween
Feunteun
Phare de Vélen
Nividic Baie de Baie de
Lampaul Penn ar Roc’h
Moléne, Phare de
Le Conquet, la Kéréon
Brest
0 kilometres 2
0 miles 1
Phare de
la Jument
For keys to symbols see back flap
136-137_EW_Brittany.indd 136 11/3/16 1:03 PM

NOR THERN FINISTÈRE  137


Ouessant’s Sheep
Out of the high season, Ouessant’s sheep
graze freely on the island’s salty pastures.
Then, on the first Wednesday in February,
the day of Porzgwenn’s traditional fair,
they are collected by their owners.
Although sheep-rearing has always been
an important activity on Ouessant, the
local breed, which is related to the ancient
wild sheep of Asia Minor, has almost
disappeared from the island. This small,
One of Ouessant’s hardy black sheep is being rivalled by
black sheep the white-fleeced merino. The Phare du Stiff, built by Vauban
in 1695
opened in the lighthouse’s stands on the island’s highest Colline St-Michel, in Mez
former generator room. From point (65 m/213 ft). Built by Notariou, archaeologists have
the Musée des Phares et Balises, Vauban in 1695, it is one of discovered fragments of pottery
a coast path runs between the oldest lighthouses in and pieces of amphora that
pebble ridges and low dry- France. From here, in clear show that Ouessant was an early
stone walls, leading to the conditions, it is possible to and important centre of trade.
Pointe de Pern, the island’s see the whole archipelago, Out at sea opposite Porz ar
most westerly point. Beyond the west coast of the Léon and Lan is the Phare de Kéréon,
the tip of this specta cular the Île de Sein. Below nestles built in 1907 in extremely
promontory, with rocks Stiff harbour, where the Enez difficult conditions. Another
eroded into strange and Eussa, the Fromveur and other lighthouse, the Phare de la
fantastic shapes, rises the vessels from the mainland tie Jument, dating from 1904,
Phare de Nividic, bathed in spray. up each day. protects shipping from the
The island’s northern coast The Presqu’île de Pen ar Lan, dangerous rocks that extend
has been colonized by sea southeast of Stiff, is worth a the Presqu’île de Feunteun
birds, including herring gulls, visit primarily for its small sandy Velen, to the southwest.
common gulls, puffins, pied inlet, which attracts fewer
oystercatchers and kittiwakes. visitors than Corz, the beach at E Écomusée d’Ouessant
Further east, grey seals can be Lampaul, and for its cromlech, Niou Huella. Tel (02) 98 48 86 37.
seen in the narrow inlets of the dating from 2,000 BC. This is Open Apr–Jun & Sep: 11am–5pm
Presqu’île de Cadoran. They can an elliptical arrangement of daily; Jul–Aug: 10am–6pm daily. &
also sometimes be seen basking menhirs that probably served E Musée des Phares et Balises
in the sun on rocks at Toull astronomical purposes. Créac’h. Tel (02) 98 48 80 70.
Auroz and Beninou. These are not the only signs Open Apr–Jun & Sep: 11am–5pm
The path continues towards of prehistoric habitation on daily; Jul–Aug: 10am–6pm daily
the Phare du Stiff, which Ouessant. At the foot of the (phoning ahead advisable). &


Moléne, Lanildut,
Le Conquet, Brest


Phare de
Men Korn













The rocky Pointe du Créac’h, on the southwest side of Ouessant
For hotels and restaurants see pp226–7 and pp238–9


136-137_EW_Brittany.indd 137 11/3/16 1:03 PM

138  BRIT T AN Y REGION B Y REGION

y Brest R Église St-Louis
Place St-Louis, Rue de Lyon.
The second-largest town in Brittany after Rennes, Brest has Open daily. 7
always played a leading military role. From the early days of Built between 1953 and 1958 on
the Roman Empire, legionnaires had seen the advantage of the site of the original church of
establishing a secure base on the rocky spur here, overlooking St-Louis, which was destroyed in
1944, this place of worship is the
a river, the Penfeld, and perfectly protected by a peninsula, largest of all those built in France
the Presqu’île de Crozon. At the instigation of Richelieu, in the post-war period.
Colbert and Vauban, who throughout the 17th century The materials used – yellow
worked to transform this natural harbour into the kingdom’s stone from Logonna-Daoulas
foremost naval base, life in the city revolved around the naval and reinforced concrete – are a
clear departure from Breton
dockyard. Brest remained a major shipyard until World War II. architectural traditions, and they
After 165 bombing raids and 43 days of siege, the conflict produce an admirable effect.
reduced Brest to rubble. The bold lines and restrained
decoration of the interior are no
less impressive.
The church has two notable
features: stained-glass windows
on the west front, by Paul Bony,
and a lectern in the shape of
an eagle, one of the very few
pieces that were salvaged from
the original church.

P Quartier St-Martin
The former outlying district
of St-Martin, which became
part of Brest in 1861, is one
of the few surviving quarters
of the old town. It is also one
French Navy training ships at the start of the “Challenge of Schooners” in Brest of the most convivial, judging
by the cafés and Irish pubs
Exploring Brest everywhere the cry of seagulls. here, which attract many
A city of rigidly straight streets, Of special interest are the students from the Université
regimented residential blocks opportunity to experience the de Bretagne Occidentale.
and lifeless districts, Brest, which undersea world at Océanopolis Retired people and idle
was entirely rebuilt after World (see p141) and, every four years, onlookers also gather here, to
War II, cannot be described as a the great international gathering stroll in the market or play boules
prime tourist destination. Yet, of tall ships in the harbour. on Place Guérin, between the
visitors who take the trouble to school and the Église St-Martin
explore it will be rewarded. P Rue de Siam (1875), two buildings that
Although there are few old The name of this lively survived the wartime bombings.
buildings here, the town has a commercial thoroughfare
pervading and stimulating naval commemorates the arrival in
atmosphere. There are dry docks, Brest of ambassadors sent by
warships in the naval dockyard, the king of Siam to the court of
vessels in the roadstead Louis XIV in 1686.
(sheltered anchorage), where More prosaically, Rue de
there is a viewing platform, and Siam is a perfect example of
1950s town planning. It has a
very uniform appearance. Here,
as in the entire district between
the Pont de Recouvrance and
the town hall, large four-storey
residential buildings are
arranged symmetrically on a
strictly rectilinear axis. However,
the installation, in 1988, of
seven black fountains by the
Hungarian sculptor Marta Pan
Rue de Siam, Brest’s lively commercial has given the Rue de Siam a The Neo-Romanesque-Gothic church in the
thoroughfare noticeable lift. Quartier St-Martin
For hotels and restaurants see pp226–7 and pp238–9


138-139_EW_Brittany.indd 138 11/3/16 1:03 PM
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Catalogue template “UK” LAYER
(Source v2.9)
Date 28th May 2014
Size 125mm x 217mm

BREST  139


VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Road map: B2. * 156,200.
n Place de la Liberté; (02) 98 44
24 96. ( Mon–Sat in Halles
St-Martin. _ Fête Internationale
de la Mer et des Marins (mid-Jul;
every four years; next in 2020);
Jeudis du Port (Jul–Aug); Festival
International du Film Court (Nov);
Astropolis electro music festival
(late Jul/Aug).
∑ brest-metropole-tourisme.fr
Transport
k Brest-Bretagne, 9 km
(5.5 miles) from the town centre.
£ Place du 19e-R-I.
@ Place du 19e-R-I.
La Mer Jaune, by Georges Lacombe, Musée des Beaux-Arts
E Musée des Beaux-Arts There is a fine collection of
24 Rue Traverse. Tel (02) 98 00 87 96. Baroque paintings on the Blarenberghe, a Dutch artist
Open Tue–Sat, Sun pm. Closed Public first floor, where Guerchin’s who painted siege and battle
holidays. & Judith and Holophernes is the scenes for Louis XV. Although
The original collection held by centrepiece, and an interesting the artist took liberties with his
this museum was quite literally assemblage of paintings by depiction of the course of the
annihilated by bombing in members of the Pont-Aven Penfeld river, this painting is of
1941. However, thanks to the School (see p175) on the great documentary value as it
efforts of the curator, the ground floor. Among the shows in minute detail the
collection has been rebuilt, most notable works in the work carried out by convicts
now consisting of around 300 collection are Vue du Port de and carpenters in the naval
works of art. Brest by Louis-Nicolas Van dockyards of Brest in 1774.

Brest City Centre Aéroport
8 km (5 miles)
1 Rue de Siam St-Martin
2 Église St-Louis Quartier MORLAIX
3 Musée des Beaux-Arts RUE DE GLASCOW St-Martin
4 Cours Dajot AVE FOCH R. DE KÉRABÉCAM R. DUPLEIX
5 Quartier St-Martin Hôtel RUE JEAN-JAURÈS St-Michel
6 Musée National de la Marine de Ville RUE VICTOR-HUGO
7 Naval Dockyard DUQUESNE PL.DE LA
RUE Y VES - C O LL E T
LIBERTÉ
8 Quartier de Recouvrance AVENUE GEORGES CLÉMENCEAU RU E BR ANDA
PLACE
9 Musée du Vieux Brest Église St-Louis Halles DU GEN. D. Conservatoire
LECLERC
St-Louis
Botanique
Penfeld RUE LOUIS-PASTEUR PLACE
Gare
RUE DE LYON
Naval BD JEAN MOULIN RUE MICHELET RUE COLBERT Routière BD GAMBET T A
Dockyard RUE DE S I AM RUE D'AUVERGNE J. Kennedy 19EME R.I. Gare SNCF
DE LA TOUR
Jardin Pr.
PLACE
REVEILLÈRE
Quartier de RUE DU CHÂTEAU AV AMIRAL
Recouvrance Square
Pont de A. Juin PEN QU ER
RUE VOLTAIRE
Recouvrance RUE EMILE ZOLA JEAN MACÉ RUE AMIRAL TROUDE
RUE ADMIRAL LINOIS RUE D'AIGUILLON Palais de
Justice
BD D ES
Musée RUE DE L'ELARN
RUE TRAVERSE
RUE MONGE
C O URS D AJOT
Musée de la FRANCAIS LIBRES des Beaux-Arts AV SALAUN
RUE AMIRAL NIELLY
Tour Tanguy R UE D EN VE R LE BRIS Océanopolis
QUIMPER
AV FR. ROOSEVELT QUAI A. CONSIDERE
RUE P. BROSSOLETTE
QUAI DE LA DOUANE
Château RUE JEAN MARIA
Musée
de la Marine
Port de
Commerce
0 metres 200 Port du QUAI CDT. MALBERT
Château
0 yards 200
For keys to symbols see back flap
138-139_EW_Brittany.indd 139 11/3/16 1:03 PM

140  BRIT T AN Y REGION B Y REGION


P Cours Dajot built by Vauban in 1683,
This promenade on the contains the oldest exhibits,
southern part of the town which include ship models,
walls was built by convicts lanterns, pieces salvaged from
in 1769, to a plan by Dajot, wrecks and wooden figure­
a pupil of Vauban. It offers heads carved in the work shops
a panoramic view of the of the naval dockyard. The
commercial port, built in modern collections, with
1860, and of Brest’s famous navigational instruments, a
roadstead, which has long German mini­submarine, and
given it a strategic and military other exhibits, are displayed
advantage. Like a huge marine in the gatehouse towers.
amphitheatre, the roadstead From the top of the keep
covers 150 sq km (60 sq miles) there is a fine view of the
between the Elorn estuary and Quartier de Recouvrance
the Pointe des Espagnols, with and the Penfeld river.
the Île Longue, where there is Crew hoisting sails in the rigging
a nuclear submarine base, P Quartier de Recouvrance of a tallship
in the background. The Penfeld river, like a fjord,
Of passing interest is the separates the town centre from E Musée du Vieux Brest
1900s­style Maison Crosnier, the Quartier de Recouvrance. The Tour Tanguy. Tel (02) 98 00 87 93.
on the corner of Rue Traverse. river is spanned by the Pont de Open Jun–Sep: daily; Oct–May: Wed–
This is the only house on Cours Recouvrance, a vertical­lift bridge Thu & Sat–Sun pm. 8 Groups only,
Dajot that was not destroyed built in 1954. Its 525­tonne by arrangement.
during the war. roadway can be raised 26 m A fuller picture of the Quartier
(85 ft) in less than three minutes. de Recouvrance as it was in the
The Quartier de Recouvrance past, with its dives and its shady
used to be a run­down district, streets, can be gained through a
as can be seen from the derelict visit to the Musée du Vieux
houses in Rue de St­Malo. Before Brest, in the Tour Tanguy.
World War II, it was populated by Built in the 14th century, the
the families of fishermen and of Tour de la Motte­Tanguy was
naval dock yard workers. Though once owned by the powerful
slightly insalubrious, with illegal Chastel family. In 1964, the tower
bars and inebriated sailors, the was converted into a museum
quarter inspired the writers Mac devoted to historic Brest.
Orlan and Jean Genet (in Querelle By means of dioramas,
de Brest). documents and other exhibits,
The 18th­century Maison the museum illustrates such
de la Fontaine, at No. 18 Rue major events in the town’s
de l’Église, is one of the oldest history as the naval battle fought
houses in Brest. It has a by Hervé de Portzmoguer in
fountain dating from 1761 1512, the arrival of ambassadors
Château de Brest, built in the and a 15th­century medieval from Siam in 1686, and a visit by
15th and 16th centuries granite cross. Napoleon III in 1858.
E Musée National de la
Marine
Château de Brest. Tel (02) 98 22 12 39.
Open Apr–Sep: daily; Oct–Mar: Wed–
Mon pm. Closed Jan. 8 Jul–Aug. &
Built in the 15th and 16th
centuries, this great fortress on
the Penfeld estuary was a
lynchpin in the duchy of
Brittany’s defences; for many
years the English had designs
on it. It withstood assaults by
the Holy League, the Bonnets
Rouges, and many more. Later it
was used as barracks and as a
prison. The castle now houses
the naval prefecture as well as a
small naval museum. The keep, The Pont de Recouvrance, a vertical-lift bridge across the Penfeld river
For hotels and restaurants see pp226–7 and pp238–9


140-141_EW_Brittany.indd 140 11/3/16 1:03 PM

BREST  141


Le Tour du Monde
The regular haunt of the famous
yachtsman Olivier de Kersauson,
this bar is located above the port
authority building. Le Tour du
Monde (Round the World) was
opened in 1997, the year that
Kersauson won the Jules Verne
The bar Le Tour du Monde round-the-world yachting trophy
in his trimaran Port-Elec. The yacht
is moored near the bar. When he is not at sea, the Admiral, as Kersauson
is affectionately known, can often be seen in this wood-panelled bar,
which is filled with all manner of souvenirs of his yachting exploits.
Part of the tropical pavilion
at Océanopolis
advanced vessels of the French
navy are tied up. The reorgani- The park, covering 22 ha (54
zation of the French navy and of acres), is laid out in the little valley
its dockyards threatens the of the Stangalar, just north of the
future of Brest, which is focused greenhouses. It is a paradise for
on naval defence. both nature-lovers and joggers.
Y Conservatoire Botanique  Océanopolis
52 Allée du Bot. Tel (02) 98 41 88 95. Moulin-Blanc Marina. Tel (02) 98 34 40
Park: Open daily. Greenhouses: 40. Open daily. Closed Jan–Apr &
Open Jul–Aug: pm daily. mid-Sep–Dec: Mon. & 7 8
& greenhouses. 8 for groups, A day is hardly long enough
by arrangement. to explore Océanopolis. Three
This, one of eight similar insti- pavilions re-create polar,
Rope-works on the banks tutes established in France, is the temperate and tropical marine
of the Penfeld first to have seriously addressed conditions. With a spectacular
the issue of saving endangered presentation and state-of-the-
P Naval Dockyard species of plants from extinction. art technology, the centre is
Porte de la Grande-Rivière, Route de Specializing in the plants of simultaneously educational,
la Corniche. Tel (02) 98 22 11 78. the Armorican massif and of the fascinating and entertaining.
Open Jul–Aug: Mon–Fri. ^ former French colonies (including Visitors can ride in a glass-
Admission restricted to nationals of Madagascar, Martinique and sided lift that descends through
countries that are members of EU. Mauritius), the institute has four a pod of sharks, or step into a
Identification compulsory. green houses, in each of which bathyscaph (submersible vessel)
8 obligatory.
different climatactic zones have to float through leathery fronds
Brest’s naval dockyard (Arsenal) been re-created. of seaweed. In environments
was established at the instiga- A Noah’s Ark of the plant ranging from from ice floes to
tion of Cardinal Richelieu. Work kingdom, the institute has coral reefs, 1,000 species of sea
began in 1631, and workshops, been able to successfully creatures can be observed in
dry docks and rope-works reintroduce cer tain species elaborate aquariums with
appeared on the banks of the into their original environment. viewing tunnels running
Penfeld. It was here also that One such is loose-strife, which through them. There
workmen and convicts fitted became extinct in Spain’s is also a colony
out ocean-going vessels and Balearic Islands in about 1925. of penguins.
provided the labour for further
installations. Between 1749 and
1858, 70,000 convicts worked
here. Replaced by the penal
settlement in Cayenne, French
Guiana, the convict centre in
Brest closed in 1858.
The guided tour of the naval
dockyard takes in the installa-
tions that were built at the
mouth of the estuary after 1889.
They include the naval college,
the former submarine base and
The Pont de Recouvrance, a vertical-lift bridge across the Penfeld river the quays, where the most The Tour Tanguy, home to the Musée du Vieux Brest




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142  BRIT T AN Y REGION B Y REGION

u Plougastel-
Daoulas
Road map B2. * 12,000. @ from
Brest. n Place du Calvaire; (02) 98 40
34 98. ( Thu am. _ Fête des Fraises
(second Sun in Jun); Pardon de la
Fontaine-Blanche (15 Aug).
Lying between the Elorn and
Daoulas rivers, the Plougastel
peninsula is a world apart.
Plougastel-Daoulas (Plougastell-
Daoulaz in Breton) itself only
came under the administration
of Brest in 1930.
The character of the area is Abbaye de Daoulas, founded in 1167 by Augustinians
well illus trated in the Musée de
la Fraise et du Patrimoine, i Daoulas con tinues in a garden near
which focuses on local culture Road map B2. * 1,866. @ From the cloisters that contains 300
(furni ture, ceremonial dress and Brest. n Landerneau; (02) 98 85 13 species native to Brittany, Asia,
the tradition of pain des âmes, 09. ( Sun am. Africa and Oceania. At the far
special loaves eaten on All Soul’s end of the abbey grounds is
Day) and on the history of local The town of Daoulas (Breton: Notre-Dame-des-Fontaines,
strawberry-growing, from the Daoulaz) developed thanks to a charming oratory of 1550.
time that the first plants were the linen-weaving and kaolin-
brought back from Chile by extraction industries. T Abbaye de Daoulas
Amédée-François Frézier in Augustinian canons foun ded 21 Rue de l’Église. Tel (02) 98 25 84 39.
1712, to the conquest of the the abbey here in 1167. When Open May–mid-Jun & mid- Sep–Dec:
British market in the early they left in 1984, the pm daily; mid-Jun–mid-Sep: daily.
years of the 20th century. département of & 8
In 1602, the inhabitants Finistère bought
built an elaborate calvary the buildings and
to thank God for the converted them into o Landerneau
passing of an epidemic a cultural centre Road map B2. * 15,035. n 9 Place
of plague. Similar to that devoted to the Gén. de Gaulle; (02) 98 85 13 09.
at Guimiliau (see p144), world’s great £ Place François-Mitterrand.
it has 180 figures civilizations. @ Quai Barthélemy-Kerros. ( Tue &
depicting scenes Poster, Musée de Of particular Fri, am, Sat. _ Festival Kann al Loar
from the life of Christ. la Fraise interest are the (Jul); Festival du Bruit (mid-Aug).
remains of the
E Musée de la Fraise et du cloisters, with 32 arcades and a One of the most striking
Patrimoine monolithic fountain, decorated features of Landerneau
Rue Louis-Nicolle. Tel (02) 98 40 21 18. with masks and geometric (Landerne in Breton) is the Pont
Open Apr–May & Oct–Dec: Wed–Fri & motifs such as stars, guilloche de Rohan, built in 1510 and one
Sun pm; Jun & Sep: Mon–Sun pm; Jul– patterns, wheels and crosses. of the few surviving habitable
Aug: Mon–Fri, Sat–Sun pm. 8 by The monastic tradition of bridges in Europe. The houses
arrangement. & 7 growing medicinal herbs and shops of metalworkers,
















The historic Pont de Rohan in Landerneau, a bridge all but hidden by the buildings on it
For hotels and restaurants see pp226–7 and pp238–9


142-143_EW_Brittany.indd 142 11/3/16 1:03 PM

NOR THERN FINISTÈRE  143


millers and cloth merchants lanterns. Inside, the wooden livestock and horses. As it
were built on piles or, like the ceiling features angels on a blue levied taxes on every trans­
superb house of the magistrate background, while the rood action that took place, the
Gillart (1639), built directly on screen is striking for its skilled parish grew rich and could
the riverbed. craftsmanship and decoration thus afford to commission the
Although the Elorn, which of fauns and gorgons, apostles best workshops to decorate
flows through the town, now and saints. Other notable the close and the church.
carries hardly any river features are the Everything about the church,
traffic, Landerneau was stained­glass window dedicated to St Salomon, is,
for centuries a of the Passion of Christ indeed, remarkable: from the
busy port. All kinds (1539) by Laurent 16th­century door and rampart
of goods bound for Sodec, of Quimper, walk, to the tympanum over
the naval dockyard and, above the stoup the south porch, the beams
in Brest, as well as at the ossuary (1639), over the north aisle and the
linen cloth, passed an Ankou (skeletal stained­glass window of the
through Landerneau. figure) with his spear Crucifixion. Over the ossuary,
Most of the old Rood screen figure, and his motto “Je vous two angels hold banners that
houses beside the river La Roche-Maurice tue tous” (“I kill you all”). are inscribed in Breton with
date from this age of The castle above words that, loosely translated,
prosperity (1660–1720). Built in the town was one of the main read: “Death, judgment, freez ing
yellow stone from Logonna, residences of the viscounts of hell. Think on that and fear it.
they have dormer windows, Léon. It passed into the owner­ Foolish is he who does not
pepperpot roofs and ornate ship of the dukes of Rohan, know that he must die.”
cornices. Throughout the who bequeathed it to the
summer, the tourist office here parish in 1985. After years of
organizes an architectural walk archaeological excavation the
through the town. site is open daily to the public. s Bodilis
Of particular interest on Road map B2. 21 km (13 miles)
the south bank are the old northeast of Landerneau via the D770,
Auberge de Notre­Dame­de­ a La Martyre the N12 and the D30. * 1,400.
Rumengol, at No. 5 Rue Road map B2. 7 km (4 miles) east of n Town Hall; (02) 98 68 07 01.
St­Thomas, and the houses at Landerneau via the D35. * 610.
Nos. 11, 13 and 15 Rue Rolland. n Town Hall; (02) 98 25 13 19. The 16th­century church in
On the north bank is the £ Landerneau. Bodilis is another jewel of
Maison de la Sénéchaussée religious architecture in
at No. 9 Place du Général­de­ This fortified close was begun in Haut­Léon. It has a superb
Gaulle, with one façade of the 9th century. The house on Renaissance porch (1585–1601),
dressed stone and another the left of the entrance was which the stoneworkers of
clad in slates; the residence once the look­out post from Kerjean decorated with statues
of the ship owner Mazurié de which the borders of the of the 12 apostles. The interior
Keroualin at No. 26 Quai de medieval kingdom, then duchy, has a painted wooden ceiling,
Léon; the Ostaleri an Dihuner of Cornouaille were watched. a Baroque high altar and
(Inn of the Alarm Clock) at No. The annual fair that was held beams richly decorated with
18 Rue du Chanoine­Kerbrat; here would draw crowds of scenes of labour and, somewhat
and the house of the merchant merchants from England, unexpectedly, of drunken ness:
Arnaud Duthoya, at Nos. 3–5 Holland and Touraine, who a man is shown drinking from a
Rue du Commerce. came to deal in linen cloth, barrel while worms infest a skull.
p La Roche-
Maurice
Road map B2. 4 km (3 miles)
northeast of Landerneau via the D712.
* 1,740. £ Landerneau. n Mairie;
(02) 98 20 43 57. _ Pardon de Pont­
Christ (15 Aug).
As in many other small towns
and villages in the Léon, the
church here is an architectural
gem. The belfry, which has two
superimposed bell chambers, is
decorated with Gothic spires,
gargoyles and Renaissance The fortified close of La Martyre, built by Hervé VII of Léon




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144  brit t an y region b y region


or pathetic attitudes make
up an earthy and unusual
depiction of the life of Christ.
Inside the church is an organ
built by Thomas Dallam, and
an altarpiece of St Joseph in the
Laval style. The baptismal fonts,
dating from 1675, are graced
by elegant spiral columns.

g St-Thégonnec
Road map B2. 13 km (8 miles) south
of Morlaix via the D769. * 2,310. The altarpiece, set at the
£ Morlaix. n Town Hall; (02) 98 79 back of the altar, provides a
61 06. focal point for prayer. This one
depicts St Joseph.
The porch of the parish
The church in St-Thégonnec, once one of close here is in a triumphal Guimiliau Parish Close
the richest in Léon and ostentatious style that This is a typical parish close,
perfectly reflects the opulence with three essential features: an
d Lampaul- that St-Thégonnec (Sant entrance framed by an arch or a
Guimiliau Tegoneg in Breton) enjoyed monumental gateway, a calvary
during the Renaissance, when with figures depicting biblical
Road map B2. 3 km (2 miles) west of it was one of the richest scenes, and an ossuary
Guimiliau. * 2,037. £ Landivisiau. parishes in the Léon. attached to the church.
n Kerven, Landivisiau; (02) 98 68 Although the church
33 33.
was severely damaged by
The parish close at Lampaul fire in 1988, some 16th- and
(Lambaol in Breton) was built 17th-century masterpieces
in stages, starting with the survive. Among them is a
porch in 1533 and ending priest’s chair decorated
with the sacristy in 1679. with medallions and putti,
Masterpieces here are six and with armrests in the
stunning altarpieces and shape of dolphins’ heads. The cemetery, where
an Entombment of Christ by There is also a Rosary members of the small parish
Antoine Chavagnac, a sculptor altarpiece; a shuttered niche community were buried.
to the French Navy in Brest. with the Tree of Jesse; a
pulpit, which was originally
gilded; and an organ built by
f Guimiliau Thomas Dallam.
The ossuary contains a
Road map B2. * 850.
£ Landivisiau. n Kerven, beautiful painted wood
Landivisiau; (02) 98 68 33 33. Emtombment of Christ dating
from 1702. Like the triumphal
The calvary in the parish close porch, the architecture of the
at Guimiliau (Gwimilio in Breton) ossuary is exuberant, with
dates from 1588. Almost 200 bell-turrets, windows and
figures in amusing slender columns.









Calvaries were built for the
elevation of the souls of
believers towards God, but
they also provide an insight
into daily life in the past.
The Entombment of Christ, part of the calvary at Lampaul-Guimiliau
For hotels and restaurants see pp226–7 and pp238–9


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nor thern finistÈre  145


Parish Closes

the phenomenon of Brittany’s parish closes (enclos paroissiaux), of which there are
almost 70 in Lower Brittany, is closely connected to the rise of the linen industry in the
16th and 17th centuries. the most numerous and elaborate parish closes are those in
the Élorn valley. here, encouraged by evangelizing missions, the religious fervour of the
faithful and the generosity of the rich juloded (local linen merchants), parishes would
virtually rival one another in their efforts to build the finest close. Centred around
cemeteries, these remarkable religious complexes consist of a church, an ossuary, a
calvary and a triumphal entrance, with Baroque altarpieces and sculptures carved in
lacelike detail.
The triumphal
In the ossuary, the entrance was the
bones of the deceased gateway through
exhumed from the
cemetery would be which the faithful
stored. The ossuary was entered the close. It
considered a bridge was intended to
between the living and prefigure the entry of
the dead. the righteous into the
kingdom of heaven.
Church



Calvary
Funeral
chapel












Field of
the Dead
South porch
Triumphal arch

The funeral
chapel (that at
Sizun is shown
here) was used as
a repositary for
bones when there The Blindfolded
was no more Christ, with two
room in the guards in 17th-century
church. The dead clothes, was carved
were originally by Roland Doré.
buried beneath The sculpture is
the floor of from the calvary at
the church. St-Thégonnec.





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146  brit t an y region b y region


j Tour of the Monts d’Arrée

the hilly area between Léon and Cornouaille can hardly be
described as mountainous, as nowhere does it exceed an
altitude of 384 m (1,260 ft). nevertheless, the Monts d’arrée,
covering 60,000 ha (148,000 acres), are the spine of Finistère.
With fewer than 40 inhabitants per square kilometre
(103 per square mile), it is sparsely populated. it contains
The Moulin du Chaos, at the start spectacular landscapes, with huge areas of heath, hilly crests
of Huelgoat’s impressive rocks and peat bogs, level expanses of granite, ubiquitous lichens
h Huelgoat and rare species of ferns. rich in legends and tales of
sorcery, this arid region becomes even more extraordinary
Road map C2. @ Morlaix. * 1,748. when the marshy yeun elez depression is shrouded in mist.
n 18 Place Aristide Briand; (02) 98 99
72 32. ( Thu. threatened by forest fires, encroaching wasteland and
desertification, it is a fragile environment. the Parc
A shining river, a mass of naturel régional d’armorique is working
strangely shaped fallen rocks, to protect its plant life and to
great moss-covered trees and Landivisiau
menhirs make Huelgoat (High ensure that the local economy Landerneau
Wood) a mysterious and remains viable.
atmospheric place around
which popular imagination Barrage
has woven many legends. Élorn du Drennec
From the Moulin du Chaos, Key
marked footpaths link various Suggested route Le Faou
places of interest in the area Other roads
around Huelgoat, which is now St- Cadou
part of the Parc Naturel Régional
d’Armorique (see right). The
river, which from 1750 to 1867
worked the wheels of a lead
mine, winds between the Grotte St-
du Diable (Devil’s Cave), the first Rivoal
stop on the Chemin de l’Enfer
(Path to Hell) of legend, and
the famous Roche Tremblante
(Shaking Rock), a 100-tonne
stone that can be made to
rock back and forth simply Brasparts
by applying pressure to it Le Faou
in the right place. 4 Sizun
Keen walkers will want to Renowned for its salmon-rich rivers, Sizun is
continue to the Mare aux also worth a visit for its church, with a fine
Sangliers (Wild Boars’ Pond) and organ case by Thomas Dallam and a
the Camp d’Artus, a Gaulish 17th-century high altar with dramatic décor. Pont-de-Buis
lès- Quimerch
oppidum (fortified settlement), The triumphal entrance leads to the ossuary,
where the fabulous treasure of which is decorated with apostles and contains
King Arthur (see p69), is said to lie. a small museum of religious art.
The botanical gardens Les
Arbres du Monde contain
plants and trees from five 3 Maison Cornec
This historic farm just
continents, with over 4,000 outside the small
different varieties, including town of St-Rivoal is
145 species of magnolia and a prime example of
orchards with ancient varieties rural architecture.
of fruit trees. It also offers an
excellent insight
Y Les Arbres du Monde into country life in
55 Rue des Cieux. Tel (02) 98 32 43 93. Brittany in the
Open Apr–Jun & Sep–Oct: Thu–Sun 18th century.
pm; Jul–Aug: Tue–Sun. &
For hotels and restaurants see pp226–7 and pp238–9


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nor thern finistÈre  147



Tips for Visitors
Tour length: 77 km (48 miles).
Stopping-off places: There are
good crêperies in Huelgoat and
Sizun. Gîtes and chambres d’hôte
(rooms in private houses) can be
rented in Botmeur, Bras parts,
Brennilis and Commana. In
St-Rivoal, visitors may sample
and purchase local delicacies.

5 Les Moulins de Kerhouat
This hamlet, with buildings dating from 1610, has been 6 Commana
converted into an open-air museum of the daily life and The parish church here contains
work of local millers. two painted wooden altarpieces,
one depicting St Anne and the
other, of 1682, Christ displaying
Landivisiau Morlaix his wounds.

Roc Trévézel
7 Brennilis
Barrage
du Drennec A village strongly associated
with legends, Brennilis is located
La Feuillée
near a strange peat bog – the
Botmeur Yeun Elez – which reputedly
Huelgoat
Yeun Elez marks the entrance to Hell.
The church has two
16th-century altars.
St-Michel
Reservoir
Carhaix-
Disused
J
Power Station Plouguer
St-
Rivoal
Huelgoat
Loqueffret
J Roc’h
Begheor
Brasparts
Châteauneuf-
du-Faou
0 kilometres 3
Pont-de-Buis
lès- Quimerch 0 miles 3
Pleyben
1 St-Herbot
The chapel, dedicated to St
Herbot, patron saint of livestock,
has a chancel and two stone
tables on which people placed
offerings when requesting his aid.
2 Montagne St-Michel
A stony track leads to the summit of
this bare mountain, 380 m (1,247 ft)
high, from which there is a
panoramic view of one of the
wildest areas of Brittany.

For keys to symbols see back flap


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