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The ideal travel companion, full of insider advice on what to see and do, plus detailed itineraries and

comprehensive maps for exploring this historic and picturesque region.

Marvel at the majestic Mont-St-Michel, explore Brittany's largest market in Rennes, wander the stately streets of Nantes, admire the half-timbered medieval houses in Vannes or relax on the beaches of St-Malo:

everything you need to know is clearly laid out within colour-coded chapters. Discover the best of Brittany

with this indispensable travel guide.

Inside DK Eyewitness Travel Guide Brittany:

- Over 15 colour maps help you navigate with ease
- Simple layout makes it easy to find the information you need
- Comprehensive tours and itineraries of Brittany, designed for every interest and budget
- Illustrations depict Brittany's icons such as the extraordinary Mont-St-Michel, Qumiper's Cathédrale St-

Corentin, Nantes' impressive Château des Ducs de Bretagne and more
- Colour photographs of the region's historic cities, pretty coastal towns, charming châteaux, elegant

cathedrals, beautiful landscapes and more
- Detailed chapters, with area maps, cover Ille-et-Vilaine; Côtes d'Armor; Northern Finistère; Southern

Finistère; Morbihan; Loire-Atlantique and more
- Historical and cultural context gives you a richer travel experience: learn about the region's fascinating

history and rich culture, rural and religious architecture, musical heritage, inspirational literature, traditional Breton costume, unique festivals including the pardons and festou-noz, local cuisine, landscape and birds, and more
- Essential travel tips: our expert choices of where to stay, eat, shop and sightsee, plus how to get

around, useful phrases, and visa and health information

DK Eyewitness Travel Guide Brittany is a detailed, easy-to-use guide designed to help you get the most from

your visit to Brittany.

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(DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Brittany

The ideal travel companion, full of insider advice on what to see and do, plus detailed itineraries and

comprehensive maps for exploring this historic and picturesque region.

Marvel at the majestic Mont-St-Michel, explore Brittany's largest market in Rennes, wander the stately streets of Nantes, admire the half-timbered medieval houses in Vannes or relax on the beaches of St-Malo:

everything you need to know is clearly laid out within colour-coded chapters. Discover the best of Brittany

with this indispensable travel guide.

Inside DK Eyewitness Travel Guide Brittany:

- Over 15 colour maps help you navigate with ease
- Simple layout makes it easy to find the information you need
- Comprehensive tours and itineraries of Brittany, designed for every interest and budget
- Illustrations depict Brittany's icons such as the extraordinary Mont-St-Michel, Qumiper's Cathédrale St-

Corentin, Nantes' impressive Château des Ducs de Bretagne and more
- Colour photographs of the region's historic cities, pretty coastal towns, charming châteaux, elegant

cathedrals, beautiful landscapes and more
- Detailed chapters, with area maps, cover Ille-et-Vilaine; Côtes d'Armor; Northern Finistère; Southern

Finistère; Morbihan; Loire-Atlantique and more
- Historical and cultural context gives you a richer travel experience: learn about the region's fascinating

history and rich culture, rural and religious architecture, musical heritage, inspirational literature, traditional Breton costume, unique festivals including the pardons and festou-noz, local cuisine, landscape and birds, and more
- Essential travel tips: our expert choices of where to stay, eat, shop and sightsee, plus how to get

around, useful phrases, and visa and health information

DK Eyewitness Travel Guide Brittany is a detailed, easy-to-use guide designed to help you get the most from

your visit to Brittany.

brit t an y region b y region  149

SOUTHERN

FINISTÈRE



this part of brittany has a wild and rugged coastline but also
some very sheltered beaches, and is swept by strong winds while
also enjoying a temperate climate. the outstanding cultural heritage of
southern Finistère is amply evident in Quimper, the capital city, and during
the Festival de Cornouaille that is held here.


Corresponding to the historic kingdom of southern Finistère is an area of unspoiled
Cornouaille, southern Finistère is bordered countryside, with lush woods and narrow
to the north by the Monts d’Arrée and the rivers running through deep valleys where
Presqu’île de Crozon, and to the east by the unexpectedly splendid chapels, many
Montagnes Noires. Like northern Finistère, with splendid altarpieces and calvaries,
to the north, and the Morbihan, to the can be discovered.
southeast, the region has an indented It is also in southern Finistère, together
coastline with impressive promontories, with the Morbihan, that the spirit of
wide bays and sheltered coves. ancient, mythical, pre-Christian Brittany
The Pointe du Van and Pointe du Raz, most tangibly lives on. The Breton spirit is
two promontories at the western suffused with the otherworldy, with
extremity of southern Finistère, are among ancient pagan ideas and rituals that have
the region’s wildest and most beautiful given birth to legends surrounding
places. It is here, on the edge of the countless saints. Armorica is also the land
Atlantic, that the four of the largest inshore of the Knights of the Round Table and the
and deep-sea fishing ports in Brittany – companions of King Arthur, whose
Concarneau, Douarnenez, Le Guilvinec legends enliven a part of this region’s
and Camaret – have developed. Inland, enthralling and romantic history.

























Spectacular beach view at Pointe du Raz with Phare de la Vieille, the lighthouse, at a distance
Old timber-framed buidling in Quimper



BT_148-149_AT996_A3INT.indd 149 17/12/14 4:49 pm

150  brIT T a n Y r EGIO n b Y r EGIO n

Exploring Southern Finistère

The northwestern part of this region is made up of the Parc naturel
régional d’armorique, which consists of a small section of the
Montagnes noires and the whole Presqu’île de Crozon, with its
long sandy beaches, forests and moors. The Châteaulin basin, in
the centre of Finistère Sud, is drained by the aulne river. Further
south, at the confluence of the Steir and the Odet, is the historic
city of Quimper, Cornouaille’s administrative and cultural capital.
The region has two major towns: Douarnenez, in the west, a
seafaring town built around an extensive bay, and the fortified
town of Concarneau in the south. With a mainly
southern orientation, southern Finistère encourages a
relaxed way of life. Sheltered coastal resorts, like POINTE DES Huelgoat
ESPAGNOLS
Morgat, contrast strongly with the rugged Brest Morlaix
Ménez-Hom and the dramatic Pointe du raz. Alignements CAMARET LANDÉVENNEC Le Faou
never far away are nature reserves that are de Lagatjar Carhaix-Plouguer
of particular interest to bird-watchers. The POINTE DE CROZON Argol Trégarvan Loudeac,
PEN-HIR
Glénan archipelago, the Île Tristan and Île de MORGAT MÉNEZ-HOM Port PLEYBEN Rennes
Launay
Sein each offer superb ports of call for yachtsmen St-Hernot Ste-Marie-du- CHÂTEAULIN
and much that will appeal to divers. Ménez-Hom Châteauneuf-
Cap de la Baie de Cast Aulne du-Faou
Chèvre M o n t a g n e s N o i r e s
Douarnenez
FINISTÈRE
RÉSERVE DU LOCRONAN St-Venec
CAP SIZUN Odet
DOUARNENEZ Briec
POINTE Quilinen Coray
DU VAN
Pont-Croix Gorges de
Stangala
ÎLE DE SEIN Goyen Ploneis Scaër
POINTE Primelin
DU RAZ AUDIERNE QUIMPER Tourch
0 kilometres 10 Plozévet
Baie
0 miles 10 d’Audierne ROSPORDEN
Bannalec
La Fôret- Isole
Fouesnant
Plonéour- Arzano
Lanvern FOUESNANT
BÉNODET QUIMPERLÉ
PONT- CONCARNEAU
NOTRE-DAME L’ABBÉ PONT-AVEN
DE-TRONOËN MANOIR DE KERAZAN Pointe du
Cabellou
St-Guénolé LOCTUDY Moëlan-s-Mer
PENMARC’H Lorient,
Lesconil Port-Manec’h Vannes
LE GUILVINEC
Getting Around ÎLES DE GLÉNAN
From Paris, Quimper can be reached in
four hours by TGV (high-speed train).
The principal roads linking Quimper
and Nantes and Quimper and Rennes
are, respectively, the N165 motorway in
the south and the N24 going east to
Rennes. The N165 heading north
leads to Châteaulin and goes onto
Brest, and the Presqu’île de Crozon
via the D791. Quimper-Cornouaille,
the regional airport, is located at
Pluguffan, 10 km (6 miles) from
The wide Plage de Veryach at Camaret Quimper via the D785.
For hotels and restaurants see p227 and pp239–41
BT_150-151_AT996_A3PIC.indd 150 17/12/14 4:49 pm

southern FinistÈre  151

Sights at a Glance
1 Landévennec e Pointe du Van g Bénodet
2 Crozon r Pointe du Raz h Fouesnant
3 Pointe des Espagnols t Île de Sein j Concarneau pp172–4
4 Camaret y Audierne k Rosporden
5 Pointe de Pen-Hir u Notre-Dame-de-Tronoën l Pont-Aven
6 Morgat i Penmarc’h z Quimperlé
7 Ménez-Hom o Le Guilvinec
8 Châteaulin p Loctudy
9 Pleyben a Manoir de Kérazan
0 Locronan s Pont-l’Abbé
q Douarnenez d Îles de Glénan
w Réserve du Cap Sizun f Quimper pp64–71
POINTE DES Huelgoat
ESPAGNOLS
Brest
Morlaix
LANDÉVENNEC
Alignements CAMARET Le Faou
de Lagatjar Carhaix-Plouguer
POINTE DE Trégarvan
PEN-HIR CROZON Argol Loudeac,
MORGAT MÉNEZ-HOM Port PLEYBEN Rennes
Launay
St-Hernot Ste-Marie-du- CHÂTEAULIN
Ménez-Hom Châteauneuf-
Cap de la Baie de Cast Aulne du-Faou
Chèvre M o n t a g n e s N o i r e s
Douarnenez
FINISTÈRE
RÉSERVE DU LOCRONAN St-Venec
CAP SIZUN Odet
DOUARNENEZ Briec
POINTE Quilinen Coray
DU VAN
Pont-Croix Gorges de
Stangala
ÎLE DE SEIN Goyen Ploneis Scaër
POINTE Primelin The picturesque mill at Pont Aven
DU RAZ AUDIERNE QUIMPER Tourch
Baie Plozévet
d’Audierne ROSPORDEN
Bannalec
La Fôret- Isole
Fouesnant
Plonéour- Arzano
Lanvern FOUESNANT
BÉNODET QUIMPERLÉ
PONT- CONCARNEAU
NOTRE-DAME L’ABBÉ PONT-AVEN
DE-TRONOËN MANOIR DE KERAZAN Pointe du
Cabellou
St-Guénolé LOCTUDY Moëlan-s-Mer
PENMARC’H Lorient,
Lesconil Port-Manec’h Vannes
LE GUILVINEC
ÎLES DE GLÉNAN
Key
Major road
Secondary road
Minor road
Main railway
Regional border
Minor railway The Pointe du Van, where the cliffs are 65 m (210 ft) high
For keys to symbols see back flap


BT_150-151_AT996_A3PIC.indd 151 17/12/14 4:49 pm

152  BRIT T AN Y REGION B Y REGION


altarpiece of the Ten Thousand
Martyrs (see pp154–5), also
dating from the 16th century.
3 Pointe des
Espagnols
This promontory on the north
side of the Presqu’île de Crozon
encloses Brest’s roadstead (see
p140) and also offers a view of
Île Longue, where there is a
nuclear submarine base.
Ruins of the Abbaye de Landévennec, founded in the 5th century The promontory (Spaniards’
Point) is named after a fort that
1 Landévennec 2 Crozon the Spaniards, allies of the Holy
League, built in 1594 during
Road map B2. 18 km (11 miles) south Road map B2. * 7,800. £ Brest or
of Crozon via the D791 and the D60. Quimper. @ g to Brest (summer their war with Henry IV. It was,
* 370. £ Brest or Quimper, then only). n Boulevard de Pralognan-la- however, captured and
taxi or bus. @ n (02) 98 27 78 46 Vanoise; (02) 98 27 07 92. ( Tue–Sun. destroyed by the king’s soldiers.
(summer); (02) 98 27 72 65 (winter).
With its beautiful turquoise
In the fifth century, where lagoons and white sandy creeks, 4 Camaret
Landévennec (Landevenneg in the coast here is a paradise, Road map A2. 9 km (6 miles) west of
Breton) now stands, St Guénolé specially in summers. Crozon via the D8. * 2,735. £ @
founded an abbey. Destroyed According to the Cartulaire k Brest-Guipavas or Quimper-
by the Normans in 913, rebuilt de Landévennec, King Gradlon Cornouaille. n Quai Kléber; (02) 98
in the 13th cen tury, pillaged by gave a third of the land around 27 93 60. _ Pardon de Notre-Dame
the English in the 16th and Crauthon (the old name of de Rocamadour (first Sun in Sep).
dissolved during the Revolution, Crozon) and its church to St ( third Tue in the month (every Tue
the abbey remained an Guénolé. Because of its strategic eve from Jun–Sep).
important centre of Christianity location, Crozon (Kraozon in
despite these vissicitudes. Breton) was invaded by Once a sardine port, Camaret
Among the ruins of this fine Normans in the 10th century, by (Kameled in Breton) turned to
example of Romanesque archi- English allies of the Montforts in the crayfish industry at the
tecture are a 16th-century statue the 14th century, by the English beginning of the 20th century.
of St Guénolé and a tomb that is again in the 15th and 16th Ships take on cargoes of crayfish
said to be that of Gradlon, centuries and later by the from the farms located all along
legendary king of Cornouaille. Spanish. It also suffered the coast of Brittany. Foreign
The capitals and the bases of bombing during World War II. competition has, however,
the abbey’s columns are well Although the Église St-Pierre somewhat curtailed this industry.
preserved, and they bear Celtic has been damaged by vandals The orange-rendered Tour
patterns and animal motifs. and the ravages of time, it still Vauban, begun in 1689, is the
The Musée de l’Ancienne has its 16th-century porch and a focal point of the fortifications
Abbaye presents the history of magnificent painted wooden that Vauban (see p173) built
this religious centre in the context
of Christianity in Brittany. Artifacts
such as manuscripts and statues
that were discovered during
archaeological excavations
here, are also on display.
The Corniche de Térénez,
leading towards Le Faou, follows
the Aulne estuary and leads to a
viewpoint offering a splendid
panorama of the meandering
river and a view of the French
navy’s scrapyard.
E Musée de l’Ancienne Abbaye
Tel (02) 98 27 35 90. Open Apr: Sun–
Fri; May–Sep: daily; Oct: times vary,
phone to check. & 8 Jul–Aug. Pointe du Tourlinguet, between Pointe de Pen-Hir and Camaret
For hotels and restaurants see p227 and pp239–41


152-153_EW_Brittany.indd 152 11/3/16 1:03 PM

SOUTHERN FINISTÈRE  153

6 Morgat
Road map A2. 4 km (3 miles) south of
Crozon via the D887. * 7,880. £
n Boulevard de Pralognan-la-
Vanoise, Crozon; (02) 98 27 07 92. (
Jul–Aug: first & third Wed in the
month. _ Fête du Thon (14 Jul).
The small coastal resort of
Morgat (Morgad in Breton)
One of the beaches at the small coastal resort of Morgat developed at the beginning of
the 20th century, thanks to the
around Camaret. It was these 5 Pointe de Pen-Hir publicity that it gained from its
fortifications that made possible Road map A2. 5 km (3 miles) west of association with the Peugeot
the destruction of the Anglo- Crozon via the D8, or 6 km (4 miles) family, who built hotels here.
Dutch fleet when it made an via the D355. The villas in the resort date
attempted landing here in 1694. from this era.
The Chapelle de Notre- Rising to a height of 63 m Although Morgat has
Dame-de-Rocamadour was (207 ft), Pointe de Pen-Hir pleasant beaches, today it
built on a shingly spit, the Sillon offers one of the most is the large nature reserves
de Camaret, in the 16th century. breath taking panoramas in nearby, such as the Marais
It is named for the pilgrims who Brittany. Breaking the waves de l’Aber, that draw visitors.
stopped there on their way to just below the point is a With its population of birds
the Église de Notre-Dame in cluster of rocks, the Tas de and otters, the Étang de
Rocamadour, southwestern Pois (Pile of Peas). On the left Kerloc’h, covering 110 ha
France. The top of the belfry was is Pointe de Dinan (from which (270 acres) between Camaret
destroyed by a cannon ball fired there is a fine view of a rock and Crozon, is of particular
by the English in 1694. In stormy known as the Château) and interest to lovers of wildlife.
weather, the church bells are on the right Pointe du A fascinating feature here are
rung to guide seamen. Tourlinguet and Pointe de the sea caves carved out of
St-Mathieu. the schist cliffs by
Environs The Musée the waves.
Just off the road from Camaret Memorial de la
to Pointe du Tour linguet are Bataille de Environs
the Alignements de Lagatjar, l’Atlantique, on the The Maison des
142 menhirs that stand facing road running round Minéraux in St-Hernot,
the sea. Opposite are the ruins Pointe de Pen-Hir, on the road to Cap de
of the Manoir de Coecilian, describes the German la Chèvre, contains a
where St-Pol Roux, a poet and occupation here, and is splendid collection of
pioneer of Surrealism, lived a memorial to the local minerals and a
from 1905. Bretons who died in Cormorant rare display of
World War II. on Pen-Hir fluorescent rocks.
E Tour Vauban
Open only partially during ongoing E Musée Memorial de la Bataille E Maison des Minéraux
restoration; check with tourist office. de l’Atlantique St-Hernot, Crozon. Tel (02) 98 27 19
8 Jul–Aug: Tue &
Kerbonn, commune of Camaret. 73. Open Easter–Jun & Oct–mid-Nov:
 Alignements de Lagatjar Tel (02) 98 27 92 58. Open school hols: Mon–Fri, & Sun pm; Jul–Aug: daily.
D8, towards the Pointe du Tourlinguet. daily pm, phone to check times. & Closed mid-Nov–Easter. & 7
Cartulaire de Landèvennec
This ninth-century book of gospels demonstrates Landévennec’s
importance in the production of religious texts. Written in Latin,
in Carolingian minuscule – the clear calligraphic style introduced
by Charlemagne – it contains more than 300 parchment pages.
The Four Evangelists are symbolized by animals. St Mark is
associated with the horse (marc’h means “horse” in Breton),
an animal that, in Armorican tradition, replaces the lion.
The two feast days honouring St Guénolé, held on 3 March
and 28 April, are mentioned. This rare manuscript was
presented to the New York Public Library by an American
collector in 1929.
Cartulaire de Landévennec, the oldest manuscript created in Finistère





152-153_EW_Brittany.indd 153 11/3/16 1:03 PM

154  BRIT T AN Y REGION B Y REGION

Crozon: Altarpiece of the Ten Thousand Martyrs

The Église St-Pierre in Crozon (see p152) contains an altar piece that
gives a magnificent visual account of the story of the Ten Thousand
Martyrs. It tells the story of the 10,000 sol diers of the Theban Legion
who, as punishment for their Christian faith, were put to death on
Mount Ararat by Emperor Hadrian during his Armenian campaign
in the second century. The soldiers’ crucifixion and their composure in
the face of death were intended to reflect the Passion of Christ. The
altar piece, made in 1602, is certainly the work of several artists, and it
is one of many depictions of the theme that were creat ed during the
Renaissance. The story also appears in Anne of Brittany’s Book of Hours.

Acace Garcère and His Angel
Troops On the eve of battle, the
The legionnaires, under angel invites the martyrs
the command of the to embrace their faith.
orator Acace
Garcère, choose
death rather than
denial of their
Christian faith. The
Roman soldiers,
meanwhile, show their
determination as they 10,000 Legionnaires
prepare for war and During the reign of
execute an ostentatious Emperor Hadrian, an
military parade. army was raised to put
down a revolt by the
inhabitants of Armenia.






Confusion
of Battle
The future martyrs
throw themselves
into battle. Despite
their entreaties to
the gods, fear
spreads among
the pagan ranks.

KEY
1 Hadrian’s soldiers gather stones
to throw at those who profess their
faith in Christ, but the stones fly back
to hit them.
2 The upper triptych depicts the
martyrs receiving communion.
3 The Crown of Thorns, which
was suffered by Christ, is inflicted
on the martyrs.
4 The condemned reassert their
faith after they have been led by the
angel to the place of their execution.

For hotels and restaurants see p227 and pp239–41


154-155_EW_Brittany.indd 154 11/3/16 1:03 PM

SOUTHERN FINISTÈRE  155

Crozon: Altarpiece of the Ten Thousand Martyrs VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Practical Information
Road map: B2. Église St-Pierre
Tel (02) 98 27 07 92 (Crozon
tourist office). Open 9am–6pm
daily. 7
Transport
£ Brest or Quimper, then
by bus.



Pagan Soldiers
Hadrian’s pagan troops are
depicted kneeling before an
idol, while the newly converted
Christians are shown turning
their backs on it.
Grotesque Figure
Kneeling in front of the
martyrs, this figure acts out
a parody of the Scourging
of Christ.



Way to Mount Ararat
The blood that flows from the
martyrs’ chests is used for their
baptism into the Christian
faith. They then make their
way up to Mount Ararat.






















The Martyrs’ Death
The martyrs die on Mount
Ararat, at the same hour as
Christ died on the Cross.









154-155_EW_Brittany.indd 155 11/3/16 1:03 PM

156  BRIT T AN Y REGION B Y REGION


Port-Launay, on a bend in the
Aulne 2 km (1 mile) north-east
of Châteaulin, was once the
town’s port. With low houses
lining the riverbank, it offers a
timeless picture of Brittany.
In the 16th century, when
the plague was taking a heavy
toll, a chapel dedicated to
St Sebastian, patron saint of
healing, was built in St-Ségal,
3 km (2 miles) northwest of
Port-Launay. The calvary,
monumental entrance and
altarpiece are among the
finest in southern Finistère.
View from the summit of Ménez-Hom, with the Aulne river below 4 Notre-Dame-de-Rumengol
Châteaulin. Tel (02) 98 20 06 58.
7 Ménez-Hom 8 Châteaulin
Road map B2. West of Châteaulin via Road map B2. * 5,700. £ 9 Pleyben
the D887. k Quimper-Cornouaille. n Quai
Amiral Cosmao; (02) 98 86 02 11 Road map B2. * 3,800. n Place
A peak on the western edge of (Apr–Sep). ( Thu. _ Boucles de Charles-de-Gaulle; (02) 98 26 71 05.
the Montagnes Noires, Ménez- l’Aulne (late May/early Jun). _ Pardon (1st Sun Aug). ( Sat.
Hom (Menez-C’hom in Breton)
rises to a height of 330 m The Grand Prix des Boucles The parish of Pleyben (Pleiben
(1,083 ft). It overlooks the Baie de l’Aulne that is held here in Breton) is mentioned in
de Douarnenez and, in clear has made this town the Breton the 12th-century Cartulaire
weather, Pointe du Van and Cap capital of cycle racing. The de Landévennec (see p153).
de la Chèvre can be seen from Aulne is the most salmon- Pleyben – a conflation of “Iben”,
the summit. rich river in France, so the name of a Breton saint,
Sacred in Celtic lore, the Châteaulin (Castellin in Breton) and the prefix “ple” (see pp43)
mountain is also the land of also attracts large numbers of – was one of the parishes
the korrigans (evil spirits) and of anglers. Trips along the Aulne established when immigrants
the elves of Armorican popular on a restored riverboat, the from Britain arrived in the fifth
belief and literature. Wildlife Notre-Dame-de-Rumengol, to seventh centuries.
here includes Montagu’s harrier leave from here (May–Sep). The parish close consists
and warblers. The marshes of A short walk upriver leads to of a calvary – one of the finest
the Aulne estuary at the foot the Chapelle Notre-Dame, on in Brittany – an ossuary, a
of the mountain are home to a wooded hill on the left bank monumental entrance and
herons and ducks, and many of the Aulne. The church has a church. The latter, dedicated
species of plants. On 15 August a 15th-century calvary with a to St Germain of Auxerre, has
each year, during the Festival du depiction of the Last Judgment. two belfries. The one on the
Ménez-Hom in the commune of right is a Renaissance tower,
Plomodiern below, the sound of and the one on the left a
bombards and Breton bagpipes Gothic spire. Between them
(see pp28–9) fills the air. is a stair turret with pinnacles
The chapel in the hamlet and an ornate spire. The nave
of Ste-Marie-du-Ménez-Hom has a 16th-century painted
contains a beautiful altarpiece. ceiling with beams carved
There is also a parish close and painted with sacred and
and a 16th-century calvary secular scenes. The high altar,
here. In Trégarvan, about dating from 1667, is lit by
12 km (8 miles) away, an early 16th- and 17th-century
20th-century school has been stained-glass windows.
converted into the Musée de The 16th-century ossuary has
l’École Rurale en Bretagne. been converted into a museum
(open summer only) of the
E Musée de l’École Rurale history of Pleyben. The porz
en Bretagne ar maro (gate of the dead),
Trégarvan. Tel (02) 98 26 04 72. Open through which every deceased
Feb–Jun & Sep–Oct: Sun–Fri pm; Jul– Port-Launay, where the salmon-rich river member of the parish used to
Aug: daily. & attracts many anglers be carried, was built in 1725.
For hotels and restaurants see p227 and pp239–41


156-157_EW_Brittany.indd 156 11/3/16 1:03 PM

SOUTHERN FINISTÈRE  157


The Pleyben Calvary

This gospel in stone, designed for the edification of illiterate worshippers, was
constructed in 1555 and completed in 1650 with the addition of sculptures by Julien
Ozanne, of Brest. These, carved in kersanton, the dark Breton granite, are on the first tier
of the east side of the calvary. They depict The Last Supper, The Entry into Jerusalem, and
Christ Washing the Feet of his Disciples. In 1738, the calvary was given the monumental
appearance that it has today. There are two curious depictions. One, on the northeastern
spur, shows the Devil disguised as a monk who tempts Christ. The other, on the western
side, is of Peter weeping for his denial of Christ before a cockerel, of which only the feet
survive. The scenes are arranged in sequence, starting with The Visitation, in which the
angel appears to Mary. The next scene is The Nativity.

The Passion of Christ
The focal point of the parish close, the visual account of the
Passion of Christ expresses the fundamental Christian belief
in the Death and Resurrection of Christ.
Christ on the Cross
Side cross
Christ Washing the Feet of His
Disciples, on the east side of the
calvary, shows Christ in the act of
washing Peter’s feet. Peter asks:
“Lord, do you wash my feet?”



Christ with the
Peter’s Denial shows Crown of Thorns,
Peter lamenting his flanked by two
betrayal of Christ. soldiers.


The Pietà shows Mary
holding the dead Christ
in her arms.
The Flagellation
shows the naked
Christ tied to a post.








Cardinal Points North
The scenes on the four
sides of the calvary were
intended to be read by
the faithful as they West East
processed round it. The
scenes of the life of Christ
are arranged in sequence
from west to east, east South
The Last Supper, on the east side representing Golgotha The plinth of the Pleyben
of the calvary. and the Resurrection. Calvary, in the shape of a cross.





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158  BRIT T AN Y REGION B Y REGION


the 17th and 18th centuries, at Port Rhu, a centre for the
they were the residences of preservation of the local
Locronan’s wealthy citizens. seafaring heritage, that together
The Chapelle Bonne- draw visitors to Douarnenez.
Nouvelle, in Rue Moal, Between the quays and the
has a small cal vary and an town centre is the 17th-century
attrac tive fountain. Chapelle St-Michel, which
contains a collection of 52
E Musée d’Art et d’Histoire mission pictures created by
Tel (02) 98 91 70 14. Open Apr–Jun & Michel Le Nobletz (see p133).
Sep: Sun–Fri; Jul–Aug: daily. & During the summer months,
R Église St-Ronan and Chapelle exhibitions are held here.
du Pénity
Place de l’Église. Open daily. E Le Port Musée
R Chapelle Bonne-Nouvelle Place de l’Enfer. Tel (02) 98 92 65 20.
Rue Moal. Open Easter–Sep. For other Open Jul–Aug: daily; Apr–Jun & Sep–
times, phone Mairie (02) 98 51 80 80. Oct: Tue–Sun. & 8
R Chapelle St-Michel
q Douarnenez Rue du Port-Rhu. Tel (02) 98 92 13 35.
Open by arrangement. For
Road map B2. * 15,820. exhibitions, phone to check times.
Granite-built house, typical of buildings £ Quimper. k Quimper-
in Locronan Cornouaille. n 2 Rue du Dr-Mével; w Réserve du Cap
(02) 98 92 13 35. ( Halles de la
0 Locronan Grande-Place de Tréboul (Mon–Sat, Sizun
am); Tréboul harbour (Wed & Sat am).
Road map B2. * 800. £ Quimper. 8 Vieux quartiers (old town), Jul– Road map A2. 20 km (13 miles) west
n Place de la Mairie; (02) 98 91 70 14. Aug; enquire at tourist office. of Douarnenez via the D7, Chemin de
( Tue. _ Pardon La Petite Troménie ∑ douarnenez-tourisme.com Kérisit. n 64 Rue de Bruyères, Beuzec
(2nd Sun July). 8 Jul–Aug: Tue & Thu Cap-Sizun (02) 98 70 55 51. Bretagne
3pm ∑ locronan-tourisme.com Vivante SEPNB: Tel (02) 98 70 13 53.
Douarnenez was once the
A legend tells that Ronan, largest sardine port in France, This nature reserve, created
an Irish monk, came to and its was here that the first in 1959 by Michel-Hervé
Cornouaille. He worked canning factories opened, in Julien and Bretagne Vivante
tirelessly to evangelize the area, 1853. Fishing, in which about SEPNB (Société d’Étude et
and it became an important 1,000 people are engaged, de Protection de la Nature
place of pilgrimage. In the can no longer support the en Bretagne), covers 25 ha
15th century, Locronan population of Douarnenez, (62 acres) on the north coast
(Lokorn in Breton) developed although the fresh fish auction of Cap Sizun. It attracts many
thanks to the linen and held here is still one of the ornithologists, as, from April
hemp-weaving industry that largest in Brittany. to the end of August, sea birds
provided Europe with sailcloth. Remains of a garum factory come here to breed in their
Old looms and local costumes discovered at Les Plomarc’h, a thousands. Migrating birds
are displayed in the Musée small fishing village next to are also seen here. There are
d’Art et d’Histoire. Douarnenez, indicate that the marked footpaths to help
The Église St-Ronan, built in site was settled in the Gallo- visitors explore, and guided
the 15th century, is con nected Roman period. Garum was a fish walks are available.
to the 16th-century Chapelle sauce highly prized throughout At Pont-Croix, on the right
du Pénity. The apse of the the Roman world. bank of the Goyen river,
church is lit by a large Today, it is the cove at which runs along the southern
15th-century stained-glass Tréboul and the Le Port Musée, part of Cap Sizun, stands
window of the Passion of
Christ, and the pulpit (1707) is
carved with medallions with
scenes from the life of St
Ronan. There is also a rosary
altarpiece, dating from the 17th
century. The chapel contains a
recumbent figure of St Ronan
and a magnificent Descent from
the Cross in painted stone.
The square, in which there
is a well, is lined with houses
with granite façades. Built in Port Rhu and the maritime museum in Douarnenez, with vessels tied up at the quayside
For hotels and restaurants see p227 and pp239–41


158-159_EW_Brittany.indd 158 11/3/16 1:03 PM

SOUTHERN FINISTÈRE  159


rises to height of more than
70 m (230 ft). Pointe du Raz (Beg
ar Raz in Breton) is extended by
a spine of sub merged rocks,
on the most distant of which
stands a lighthouse, the Phare
de la Vieille.
In fine weather, the Île de
Sein and the Ar Men lighthouse
are visible from here. On the
north side, the sea has carved
Pointe du Van, with Cap Sizun visible in the far distance potholes known as the Enfer de
Plogoff, where the legendary
Notre-Dame-de-Roscudon, (Pile of Peas) are superb. To Princesse Dahud would cast her
founded in the 13th century. the left is Pointe du Raz, the un fortunate lovers. The Raz de
The church’s Roman esque Phare de la Vieille and, behind Sein, a notorious tide race, is
vaulting is supported by it, Île de Sein. A walk along the much feared by sailors.
clustered columns typical of an GR34 long-distance path will Pointe du Raz is now
English-influenced style that reveal several small fishing a conservation area with a
became known as the school villages tucked away along network of footpaths. There is
of Pont-Croix. Le Marquisat, a the coast here. also a visitor centre, the Maison
16th-century residence, houses de la Pointe du Raz, which has
the Musée du Patrimoine. car parks nearby.
The Goyen estuary, r Pointe du Raz
with salmon-rich waters Road map A2. 16 km (10 miles) west Environs
and large numbers of birds, of Audierne via the D784. @ Douar- The Baie des Trépassés (Bay of
offers a walk in an unspoiled nenez, Audierne, Quimper. n Maison the Dead) has a beautiful beach
environment running for 12 km de la Pointe du Raz, Plogoff; (02) 98 70 with caves in the cliffs that can
(8 miles) from Pont-Croix 67 18. h compulsory; pay and be explored at low tide.
to Audierne. display. ∑ pointeduraz.com According to local legend, the
bodies of those who had died at
E Musée du Patrimoine Wild and majestic, this spur sea would be washed up on this
Tel (02) 98 70 51 86. Open Wed–Fri, shaped by the action of waves beach by strong currents.
Sat pm, Sun. &

e Pointe du Van
Road map A2. 27 km (17 miles) west
of Douarnenez via the D7.
With high cliffs and the 17th-
century Chapelle St-They
perching on rocks, the Pointe
du Van is a magnificent sight,
and the views of Pointe de
Brézellec, Cap de la Chèvre,
Pointe St-Mathieu and the
rocks known as the Tas de Pois The lighthouse, Phare de la Vieille, seen from Pointe du Raz
The Troménie, Tour of Monastery Land
Some 2,500 years ago, Locronan was a centre of Celtic reli gion
unlike any other in Europe. Here, Celtic astronomical points of
reference were used to create a nemeton, a quadrilateral circuit
12 km (7.5 miles) long punctuated by 12 markers corresponding to
the 12 cycles of the lunar calendar. Although Benedictine monks
took over this Celtic site to build a priory, the outline of the sacred
itinerary survived the imposition of Christianity. The Celtic
astronomical markers became the 12 stations of the Christian
procession. The word troménie is derived from the Breton words
tro (tour) and minihy (monastery land). The oldest-established
Christians processing during the Troménie troménie goes back to 1299. The grande troménie secures pilgrims’
in Locronan entry into heaven and equals three petites troménies.





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160  BRIT T AN Y REGION B Y REGION

t Île de Sein
Road map A2 * 250. n Mairie; (02)
98 70 90 35. g Audierne (daily), Brest,
Camaret (summer only). No cars
allowed on the island. _ Pardon de
St-Guénolé (Trinity Sunday, Jun), Pardon
de St-Corentin (first Sun in Aug).
This island, an extension of
Pointe du Raz, is no more than
about 2 km (1 mile) long and
800 m (875 yds) wide, and its
highest point is just 6 m (20 ft) The lighthouse, Phare Île de Sein, off the western tip of the Île de Sein
above sea level. The landscape
here is bare and the small town y Audierne  L’Aquashow
consists of a maze of narrow Road map A2. * 2,500. Rue du Goyen. Tel (02) 98 70 03 03.
streets that give welcome k Quimper-Cornouaille. Open Apr–Sep: daily; Oct & school
shelter from the wind. £ Quimper then by bus. n 8 Rue hols Nov–Mar: daily pm. 8 by
arrangement. 7 &
The Île de Sein (Enez-Sun in Victor-Hugo; (02) 98 70 12 20.
Breton) has a few megalithic _ Pardon (last Sun in Aug). ( Sat. R Chapelle de St-Tugen
monuments, including two ∑ audierne-tourisme.com Open daily (summer only).
menhirs known as Les Causeurs
(The Talkers) and the Nifran The seafaring town of
tumulus. The island may have Audierne (Gwaien in Breton)
been a burial place for druids. still has a busy harbour, with
The islanders’ greatest an inshore fishing industry
moment in history came at specializing in such highly
the outbreak of World War II, prized fish as sea bream and
when they answered the call monkfish caught with seine
of General de Gaulle. nets, and sea bass caught on
A track leads to the light- the line, as well as crayfish. The
house and the Chapelle boat scrapyard in the Anse de Audierne harbour, with the Église
St-Corentin. The Musée Jardin Locquéran, with old lobster St-Raymond-Nonnat on the right
de l’Espérance documents boats, is a protected historic
daily life on the island. site. Also of historic interest u Notre-Dame-de-
are exhibits in the Musée
Environs Maritime. They include Tronoën
The Phare d’Ar Men, 12 km a reconstruction of a fisher- Road map B3. 9 km (5.5 miles) west
(7.5 miles) west of the island, was man’s cottage. of Pont-l’Abbé, commune of St-Jean-
built on a reef that is permanently The 17th-century Église Trolimon. Tel (02) 98 82 00 34 (town
battered by the waves. It took St-Raymond-Nonnat, which hall). Open daily. 8 summer only.
the islanders 14 years to build. overlooks the town, is
The unmanned lighthouse decorated with carvings A landscape of bare dunes
protects shipping negotiating of ships and has a striking surrounds the chapel and
these dangerous waters. Baroque belfry. calvary of Tronoën (Tornoan
The L’Aquashow on the in Breton). The vaulted chapel
E Musée Jardin de l’Espérance outskirts of the town, offers has a rose window, and two
Quai des Paintolais. the opportunity to view doorways frame an open belfry
Open May–Sep: daily. & marine life. set with turrets.
The calvary (c. 1450–70) is
Environs the oldest in Brittany, and the
At Primelin, 3 km (2 miles) detail of its carvings has been
west of Audierne on the obliterated by the passage of
D784, is the beautiful Chapelle time. On the platform are Christ
de St-Tugen, built in 1535. on the Cross, flanked by the two
While the nave and square thieves. The rectangular base is
tower are both in the decorated by a double frieze
Flamboyant Gothic style, the illustrating The Childhood of
transept and apse date from Christ and The Passion of Christ.
the Renaissance. The sequence of scenes
begins on the east side with
E Musée Maritime The Annunciation, continuing on
Les Causeurs, a pair of menhirs on Rue Lesné. Tel (02) 98 70 27 49. the north side with The Visitation
the Île de Sein Open mid-Jun–Sep: daily. & and The Nativity. The scenes are
For hotels and restaurants see pp227 and pp238–41


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SOUTHERN FINISTÈRE  161


carved in granite from Scaër.
This stone is prone to becoming General de Gaulle’s Call to Arms
covered in lichen, as can be The harsh existence that
seen in The Last Judgment and generations of Sénans
The Last Supper (on the south (inhabitants of the Île de Sein)
side). The Visitation, The Nativity had endured gave them a
and The Three Kings bringing fighting spirit. When, on 18 June
their gifts (north side) are 1940, General de Gaulle made his
carved in tougher kersanton appeal by radio from London,
(black granite). calling on all Frenchmen to fight
the German invasion, the men of
Sein readily left the island to join
other volunteers in England.
When the Germans reached Sein,
the only people left were women
and children. In July 1940, the
leader of Free France reviewed
the first 600 volunteers, 150 of
whom were Sénans. “The Île de General de Gaulle with seamen on the
Sein therefore represents a Île de Sein
quarter of France,” exclaimed the
general. Of the Sénan seamen who answered the call, only
114 returned. In 1946, de Gaulle came to the island to award
it the Croix de la Libération.

(30 miles). The Musée de la This fishing village began to
The elegant belfry on the church of Préhistoire, near the Plage develop in the 19th century
Notre-Dame-de-Tronoën de Pors-Carn, documents the when it became Quimper’s
region’s prehistory. main supplier of fresh fish.
Today, Le Guilvinec is still a
i Penmarc’h  Phare d’Eckmühl large, traditional fishing village.
Tel (06) 07 21 37 34. Open Apr–Sep: The quayside comes to life in
Road map B3. 12 km (7.5 miles)
southwest of Pont-l’Abbé via the daily; Oct–Nov: pm daily (weather- the late after noon when the
D785. k Quimper-Cornouaille. £ dependent; phone to check). & boats return. Haliotika, a sea-
@ * 6,030. n Place du Maréchal- E Musée de la Préhistoire fishing discovery centre, can
Davout; (02) 98 58 81 44. _ Pardon Rue du Musée-Préhistorique. also be found here, with
de Notre-Dame-de-la-Joie (15 Aug). Tel (02) 98 58 60 35. Open Jun–Sep: exciting interactive exhibits.
( Jun–Sep: Fri am (St-Guénolé daily. 8 & A seaweed oven at Pointe du
harbour) & Wed (Kérity harbour). Men-Meur bears witness to the
∑ penmarch.fr importance of seaweed-
o Le Guilvinec harvesting in the past. Further
The story goes that the cruel Road map B3. 10 km (6 miles) south on is the Manoir de Kergoz, an
Princess Dahud cast a spell of Pont-l’Abbé via the D785 and D57. attractive manor built in the
on Marc’h, legendary king * 3,040. k Quimper-Cornouaille. 15th century and now restored.
of Poulmarc’h, as the result of £ @ n Rue de Men Crenn; (02) 98 It has a 16th-century dovecote.
which his head was turned into 58 29 29. _ Les Estivales Jul–Aug: Fri. Footpaths lead to Lesconil, a
that of a horse (penmarc’h). ( Tue & Sun (summer). charming fishing village with
Penmarc’h consists of three ∑ leguilvinec.com white houses.
parishes: that of Penmarc’h
itself, and those of St-Guénolé
and Kérity. St-Guénolé is
the second-largest port in the
Bigouden and the sixth-largest
in France. The computerized fish
auction that is held there is the
most advanced in Europe.
The Phare d’Eckmühl is the
pride of the town. Built in 1897
with funds provided by the
daughter of Général Davout,
Prince of Eckmühl, the
lighthouse is made of Breton
granite known as kersanton.
Its beams carry for 50 km The harbour at Le Guilvinec, where visitors come for sea fishing




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162  BRIT T AN Y REGION B Y REGION


Joseph Astor assembled
a collection of 16th- to
20th-century paintings and
drawings, and a large collection
of faience from the former
faience factory at Porquier.
These now form part of a
museum collection which also
includes some pieces of
traditional Breton furniture.

s Pont-l’Abbé
Road map B3. * 8,425. k
Quimper-Cornouaille. £ Quimper.
@ n 11 Place Gambetta; (02) 98 82
The pleasant little fishing port of Île-Tudy 37 99. _ Fête des Brodeuses (early
p Loctudy island. After the saint’s death, Jul). ( Thu.
the monastery was transferred The town is named after the
Road map B3. 6 km (4 miles)
southeast of Pont-l’Abbé via the D2. to Loctudy. Île-Tudy, now a monks (abbés) of Loctudy who
* 3,700. k Quimper-Cornouaille. peninsula, is a small, pleasant built the first bridge (pont)
£ @ n Place des Anciens- fishing village accessible by across the river at this spot. The
Combattants; (02) 98 87 53 78. boat from Loctudy. site had already drawn the
_ Pardon de St-Tudy (Sun after attention of the Romans, who
11 May). ( Tue am. built a fortified camp here.
a Manoir de Pont-l’Abbé (Pont-N’-Abad in
The well-known coastal resort Kérazan Breton) later became the capital
of Loctudy (Loktudi in Breton) is Road map B2. 4 km (2.5 miles) south of the Bigouden. During the
pleasantly located on the Pont- of Pont-l’Abbé via the D2. Tel (02) 98 Middle Ages, the lord of Pont-
l’Abbé river, with a fine view of 87 50 10. Open Apr–Jun & mid–end l’Abbé built a castle surmounted
Île Garo and Île Chevalier and of Sep: Tue–Sun; Jul–mid-Sep: daily. 8 by a huge oval tower. During
Île-Tudy, a peninsula. Loctudy’s groups by arrangement. & 7 _ the Wars of the Holy League
fishing port is the foremost mini-festivals, exhibitions in summer. (see p50), the town’s barons
provider of live crayfish, the ∑ kerazan.fr converted to Protestantism,
famous “demoiselles de and the castle was damaged
Loctudy”. When the trawlers This magnificent country by attacks, especially during the
return to the harbour, there is a residence, built in the 16th revolt of the Bonnets Rouges
fish auction on the quay, which century and restored in the 18th, (Red Caps). In 1675, this revolt
is always a high point in daily was bequeathed by Joseph let to the uprising of hundreds
life everywhere in Armorica. Astor to the Institut de France in of protestors in Lower Brittany.
Trips out to sea with rods and 1928. The manor, sturdily built in All wore red hats and all
bait are organized by the tourist granite, is set in 5 ha (12 acres) demanded the abolition of
office, and visitors can also learn of parkland and was obviously the corvée (unpaid labour for
how to fish with nets and lay designed for a luxurious and the feudal lord), of taxation on
lobster pots. sophisticated lifestyle. harvest and of the tithe paid
The 12th-century The Astor family devoted to the clergy, and the universal
Romanesque Église St-Tudy is themselves to the develop ment right to hunt. The repression
very well preserved. The capitals of Bigouden culture and to local with which the governor of
are carved with flowers, masks, politics. In 1930, a school of Brittany responded quelled
human figures and animals; the embroidery was opened in the further attempts at protest.
apse has an ambulatory and house. Later, at the instigation While the main part of
chapels. Beside the church is of his father, a patron of the arts, the castle contains
the small chapel of Pors-Bihan,
and just outside the town, on
the road to Pont-l’Abbé, is the
pretty Chapelle de Croaziou,
with a Celtic cross.
Environs
When, having sailed from Britain,
St Tudy reached Brittany, he
founded a monastery on what
was, in the early 5th century, an Granite buildings of the Manoir de Kérazan, built in the 16th century
For hotels and restaurants see p227 and pp239–41


162-163_EW_Brittany.indd 162 11/3/16 12:48 PM

SOUTHERN FINISTÈRE  163

d Îles de Glénan
Road map B3. n Fouesnant; (02) 98
51 18 88. g from Port-La-Forêt, Beg-
Meil, Concarneau and Benodet. Also
from Concarneau, Le Corentin (02 98
57 00 58, Jul–Aug) arrange cruises on
a replica of a 19th-century lugger.
This archipelago, 12 nautical
miles (14 miles) off the mainland
and opposite the Baie de La Forêt,
consists of eight large islands and
a dozen islets. Its white sandy
beaches, clear water and plant
and animal life make it an
Église Notre-Dame-des-Carmes, built in 1383, Pont-l’Abbé exceptionally suitable place for
the sailing and deep-sea diving
the town hall, the keep the Bonnets Rouges uprising. courses that are organized here.
houses the Musée Bigouden. The arches and columns of the On Penfret, the largest island,
This contains an interesting church are in the style of the is the Centre Nautique des
collection of traditional Pont-Croix School (see pp159). Glénan. Estab lished in 1947,
costumes and headdresses, The towpath along the the school is world-famous
as well as furniture and Pont-l’Abbé river makes for a for its training in dinghy and
other objects. pleasant walk. The river flows catamaran sailing. Students are
The Église Notre- into an estuary dotted with housed in an 18th-century fort.
Dame-des-Carmes, small islands, Les Rats, The Île St-Nicolas is the
built in 1383 and Queffen and Garo, which base from which the Centre
formerly the chapel of are inhabited by flocks International de Plongée holds
the Carmelite convent, of birds, including its diving courses.
has an outstanding common spoonbill The Île Guiautec is a bird
15th-century and heron. At Pointe sanctuary. A rare flower – the
stained-glass Traditional costume, Bodillo is the largest Glénan narcissus, which was
window. It also displayed in the Musée colony of herons brought by the Phoenicians
contains a beautiful Bigouden in Finistère. and which flowers in April –
representation of the also grows on the island.
Virgin, embroidered in col oured E Musée Bigouden
silks on a banner made by the Tel (02) 98 66 09 03. Open Jun–  Centre Nautique des Glénan
Le Minor workshop. Aug: daily; Apr–Jun & Sep–Oct: Tue– Office on Place Pierre-Viannay,
Not far from the quays are Sun pm. & Concarneau. Tel (02) 98 97 14 84.
the ruins of the church of R Église Notre-Dame-des-Carmes  Centre International
Lambour, which was destroyed Place des Carmes. Open varies. de Plongée Île St Nicolas, Fouesnant.
by the Duke of Chaulnes during 5 6:30pm Sat; 11am Sun. Tel (02) 98 50 57 02.






















The lighthouse at Penfret, the largest island in Îles de Glenan




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164  BRIT T AN Y REGION B Y REGION

Street-by-Street: Quimper

Founded by Gauls on the site of the present Locmaria
district, downstream from the present city centre, the
town was later named Aquilonia (Town of Eagles) by
the Romans. For centuries, it was then known as
Quimper-Corentin, after Corentine, its first bishop.
The city stands at the confluence (kemper) of the Steir
and the Odet rivers. Rampart walks, project ing towers
and walls survive in the old town, although old timber- Musée Departemental Breton
framed houses now alternate with later mansions and Founded in 1846, the museum is
modern architecture. Recent building work has revealed housed in the bishops’ palace.
substantial remains of the medieval city. A M I R A L D E K E R G U É N L E N ODET


B O U L E VA R D





R U E D U R O I R U E D U PA R C
G R A D LO N



R U E D U F R O U T

P L AC E
. Cathédrale St-Corentin S A I N T -
Built in the 13th and 14th R U E D E CO R E N T I N
centuries, on the site of a L A M A I R I E
Roman temple, the cathedral
was later sumptuously
renovated (see pp168–9). R U E K É R É O N




R U E É L I E F R É R O N R U E D U G U É O D E T

R U E D E S B O U C H E R I E S






PL. AU BEURRE
R U E D U S A L L É


. Musée des R U E
René Laënnec Beaux-Arts D E S
This statue honours Built in 1872 by the Quimper G E N T I L S H O M M E S
the inventor of the architect Joseph Bigot, it
stethoscope, who contains collections of Flemish
died in 1826. and Italian paintings.
For hotels and restaurants see p227 and pp239–41


164-165_EW_Brittany.indd 164 11/3/16 1:03 PM

QUIMPER  165

. Covered Market
The market (Les Halles) VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
is open every day. It
plays a prominent part Practical Information
* 67,250. n Place de la
in the life of the city.
Résistance; (02) 98 53 04 05.
( Wed & Sat, Boulevard du
Moulin au Duc. _ Salon Bande
Dessinée et Disque (Feb), Festival
de Cornouaille (third week in Jul),
Les Semaines Musicales de
Quimper (Aug), Les Jeudis de
l’Évêché (mid-Jun–mid-Sep).
∑ quimper-tourisme.com
Transport
k Aéroport de Quimper-
Rue St-François
In the 18th century, Cornouaille, Pluguffan.
£ & @ Avenue de la Gare.
crown judges lived in
this street, which is lined
with tall houses.
Odet River
ODET
R U E D U PA R C


R U E D U PA R C





R U E S A I N T F R A N ÇO I S RUE DE LA GRANDIÉRE QUAI DU STEIR Rue Kéréon



The finest and oldest timber-
framed houses in Quimper are in
Rue Kéreon (Shoemakers’ Street),
which has a medieval atmosphere.
R U E
A S TO R
R U E D E S B O U C H E R I E S R U E RUE DE LA HALLE Place Terre-au-Duc is
lined with timber-
framed houses.

P L AC E
T E R R E
AU D U C 0 metres 50 50
0 yards
RUE DE LA HERSE
K É R É O N
. Musée des D E S The Steir river
Beaux-Arts P L AC E runs through the
Built in 1872 by the Quimper G E N T I L S H O M M E S M É DA R D old quarters of Key
architect Joseph Bigot, it the city. Suggested route
contains collections of Flemish
and Italian paintings.




164-165_EW_Brittany.indd 165 11/3/16 1:03 PM

166  BRIT T AN Y REGION B Y REGION


Exploring Quimper
Listed as a historic town, Quimper (Kemper in Breton) has an
unusually rich heritage, and great care is being taken to show
it to best advantage. The cathedral has been restored and
three squares – Place Laënnec, Place St-Corentin and Place
Terre-au-Duc – have been totally remodelled. A 12th-century
cemetery and 14th-century esplanades have been
discovered, and there’s a thriving contem porary cultural
centre, Le Quartier. Quimper has an illustrious past: it is the
birthplace of Fréron (1719–76), Voltaire’s famous adversary,
of the adventurer René Madec (1736–84), of the poet Max Banner carried in procession during
Jacob (1876–1944) and of René Laënnec (1781–1826), the Grand Pardon
inventor of the stethoscope. Yves de Kerguelen, the explorer,
is also a native of the Quimper area. The city naturally has a Terre-au-Duc. Not far from
strong Celtic identity, and Celtic culture is celebrated at the here is the Église St-Mathieu,
Festival de Cornouaille every July. It is also famous for its a church with a particularly
fine 16th-century stained-
faience, which has been made here since 1690. glass window.
The quays along the Odet lead
to Rue St-François and, further
P Old Town Boucheries is intersected by on, there is a business centre and
The city’s finest medieval streets Rue du Guéodet, which contains shopping mall. In Rue du Parc,
are those opposite the the famous 16th-century which follows the Odet, is the
cathedral, and Maison des Café de l’Épée, once patronized
they are faced Cariatides. The by writers and artists from
with decorative faces carved into Gustave Flaubert to Max Jacob
ceramic tiles. the stonework and now a Quimper institution.
Half-timbered of the house are On the opposite side of the
houses, slate roofs those of Quimpérois Odet, footpaths lead to Mont
and cobbled streets who distinguished Frugy (70 m/230 ft high),
also fill this old part Faces on the Maison themselves in the which offers a good view
of the city. des Cariatides Wars of the Holy over the city centre.
Rue Kéréon League. Further on, The Du Plessis distillery, in
(Shoemakers’ Street) is lined the Rue des Gentilshommes, the Quartier d’Ergué-Armel,
with corbelled houses. Other which is lined with mansions, contains an interesting
street names, such as Place au leads down to the banks of the collection of antique stills.
Beurre (Butter Square) and Steir, ending at Rue de la Herse,
Rue des Boucheries (Butchers’ which has a projecting turret. E Musée Départemental
Street), also echo the trades that The right bank of the Steir, Breton d’Art et de Traditions
were once practised here. on the other side of the Pont Populaires
At No.10 Rue du Sallé is the Médard, was once the territory 1 Rue du Roi-Gradlon. Tel (02) 98 95
Minuellou, a former residence of of the dukes of Brittany. Half- 21 60. Open Jul–mid-Sep: daily; mid-
the Mahaut family. Rue des timbered houses line Place Sep–Jun: Tue–Sat, Sun pm. &
The museum is housed
in the former bishops’ palace
on the south side of the
cathedral. The palace consists
of two wings flanking a Renais-
sance tower known at the
Logis de Rohan, built in the
Flamboyant Gothic style in
1507 by Bishop Claude de
Rohan and restored in the
19th century. Inside the tower
is a spiral staircase, which
gives access to all the rooms.
The staircase is finished with
decorative wood carvings.
The museum, which docu-
ments 3,000 years of Breton
Timber-framed houses in the historic centre history, was established by the
For hotels and restaurants see p227 and pp239–41


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QUIMPER  167


Société d’Archéologie du
Finistère in 1846. Devoted to
cultural anthropology, it
con tains an important
collection of folk art.
The ground floor contains
prehistoric artifacts (spear
points, hand axes, Gaulish stele
and weapons), a fine collection
of painted wooden religious
statues and two recumbent
figures of knights.
The first and second floors Le Génie à la Guirlande, by Charles Filiger, Musée des Beaux-Arts
of the museum contain
magnificent displays of E Musée des Beaux-Arts and painter Max Jacob, a
traditional costumes, 17th- 40 Place St-Corentin. Tel (02) 98 95 native of Quimper, and that
to 19th-century furniture, 45 20. Open Jul–Aug: daily; Sep–Oct & of his friend Jean Moulin.
including chests, box beds Apr–Jun: Wed–Mon; Nov–Mar: Wed– Watercolours and drawings,
and wardrobes, and everyday Sat, Sun pm–Mon. as well as portraits of Jacob’s
objects, including an unusual Closed public holidays. & artist friends, including Cocteau
folding spoon. The gallery was built by and Picasso, are displayed.
On the third floor is a the architect Joseph Bigot to Also shown are major works
collection of 300 pieces of house the collection that Jean- by Rubens, Fragonard and
Quimper faience (see p170) Marie Silguy bequeathed to the Corot, and 20th-century
and stoneware dating from city. The gallery contains Flemish, paintings (by Delaunay and
the 17th to the 20th centuries. Italian and French painting, Tal Coat), as well as the work
Medieval and modern including works by Sérusier, Denis of Breton painters, such as
religious art is also exhibited. and Lacombe, members of the Guillou, Boudin and Noël.
The tour of the museum Pont-Aven School (see p175). There are also some splendid
ends in a room devoted to One room is devoted to prints and drawings, especially
temporary exhibitions. the life and work of the poet by Charles Filiger.
Quimper City Centre Key
1 Cathédrale St-Corentin See pp164–5
2 Hôtel de Ville
3 Musée Départemental
Breton d’Art et de Calvaire de Quilinen
BREST
Traditions Populaires DOUARNENEZ Steir RUE DE PEN AR STEIR RU E BRIZEUX ELIE FRÉRON RUE PLACE
4 Faïencerie HB-Henriot CHAPEAU ROUGE BLVD DU MOULIN PLACE AU ALEXANDRE
RUE DE
BEURRE
5 Musée de la Faïence Église RUE DES GENTILSHOMMES RUE DU SALLÉ
6 Église St-Mathieu RUE DE FALKIRK St-Mathieu R U E K ÉR É O N Musée des Hôtel R DE LA TOUL AL LAËR MASSÉ R U E L U Z EL
Beaux Arts
7 Musée des Beaux-Arts PLACE de Ville
RUE ST-MATHIEU PL. TERRE- LAËNNEC
AU-DUC RU PLACE ST-
Q U A I D U S T E IR E AS TOR RUE ST-F R A N Ç O IS Musée Départemental RUE JUNIVILLE
RU E LA ËNN EC CORENTIN Cathédrale RUE DU FROUT
St-Corentin
Halles
Breton d’Art
St-Francis
RU E D U PAR C BLVD DE KERGUÉLEN
R U E R . M A DE C
Odet
BO UL EVA RD D U PL EIX
RUE A MIRAL RON A RC’H
Gare Routiere
500 m (550 yards)
PLACE Gare SNCF
RUE V IS
500 m (550 yards)
RUE STE-
RÉSISTANCE RUE DE LA DÉESSE R UE JEAN-JAURÈS
DE LA
CATHERINE
R U E DU PALAIS
QU A I D E L ’O D E T Mont-Frugy LORIENT
A L L ÉE DE LO C M A R IA
Odet
Musée de la Faïence 0 metres 200
Faïencerie HB-Henriot 0 yards 200
For keys to symbols see back flap
166-167_EW_Brittany.indd 167 11/3/16 12:48 PM

168  BRIT T AN Y REGION B Y REGION


E Musée de la Faïence Cathédrale St-Corentin
14 Rue Jean-Baptiste-Bousquet.
Tel (02) 98 90 12 72. Open Apr–Sep: Impressed by the religious faith of Corentine, whom he met on
Mon–Sat. & Ménez-Hom, so the legend goes, King Gradlon invited the
The museum is laid out in the hermit to become Bishop of Quimper and gave him land on
Maison Porquier, a former which to build a cathedral. History records that in 1239 Bishop
faience factory in the heart of Rainaud decided to start building the choir of his projected
the Locmaria district, where the cathedral. The light and airy building that resulted was achieved
18th-century kilns are also
located. Recent building work by means of new construction techniques: ribbed vaulting
in this district is in keeping with supported by flying buttresses. The choir was built out of line
the character of the area. with the nave to accommodate an older chapel containing the
The museum highlights the tomb of Alain Canhiart, who repelled Norman invasions in 913.
elements necessary for making
pottery, namely water, clay
and fire. The natural occurrence . Stained-Glass Windows
of clay and water The great vertical spaces of the
in the vicinity is nave, the choir and the transept
the reason are lit by superb stained-glass
why Quimper windows made in a local
became a workshop in the 15th century.
prime centre
of pottery Odetta vase with
manufac ture. hydrangea motif
There is also
a display of Quimper pottery,
with work by Alfred Beau, and
pieces by major throwers and
painters. The creation of the mark
Odetta HB Quimper in 1922
and the beginnings of studio
pottery are also documented.
Faïencerie HB-Henriot
Place Bérardier, Locmaria. Tel (02) 98
90 09 36. Open for guided tours only.
8 times vary; phone ahead. &
In 1984, two Americans, Paul
and Sarah Janssens, acquired
the HB-Henriot faience factory.
Continuing Quimper’s faience-
making tradition, the factory is
the only one still to produce
pieces with freehand decoration.
Environs
The 16th-century Calvaire de
Quilinen, in open countryside
between Quimper and
Châteaulin, is worth a visit.
About 1 km (0.5 mile) further KEY
on is the Gothic Chapelle de
St-Venec, dedicated to the 1 Small chapel 5 Bell turret on the tower
brother of St Guénolé, which 2 The old high altar 6 St-Guénolé and
has a fountain framed by beneath a canopy decorated St-Ronan Window, dating
slender twisted columns. The with seraphim, was shown at from the 19th century,
church at Cast, 8 km (5 miles) the Exposition Universelle in depicts the two saints, one
south of Châteaulin, is known Paris in 1867. the founder of the Abbaye
for a 16th-century sculpture 3 Spires, in the Pont-Croix de Landévennec and the
called St Hubert’s Hunt. The style, were added in 1854. other the hermit of Locronan.
belvedere at Griffonez, on a 4 Twin towers, 76 m 7 West door
bend of the Odet 7 km (4 miles) (250 ft) high, are pierced
north of Quimper, offers a view by double openings.
of the Gorges de Stangala.
For hotels and restaurants see p227 and pp239–41


168-169_EW_Brittany.indd 168 11/3/16 1:03 PM

QUIMPER  169


VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Place St-Corentin. Tel (02) 98 53
04 05. 5 9am, 10:45am &
6:30pm Sun. 7





. Romanesque Nave
Rebuilt in the 15th century, the Romanesque
nave and transept are lit by ten windows in
the Flamboyant Gothic style. The tombs of
bishops of Quimper laid out here and in the
transept are covered by recumbent figures
of the deceased.












Portal
Seven carved archivolts
frame a rose window
above which runs a
balustrade. Between the
two square galleried
towers is a statue of
King Gradlon.





















Pulpit
Of painted and gilded wood, the
Baroque pulpit was made in 1679
by Olivier Daniel, of Quimper. It is
decorated with medallions showing The apse of the cathedral and the gardens
scenes from the life of St Corentine. of the former bishop’s residence




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170  BRIT T AN Y REGION B Y REGION


Quimper Faience

The history of Quimper faience began in 1690, when Jean-Baptiste Bousquet settled in
the Locmaria district of the town. He came from Moustiers, in Provence, but competition
and the lack of wood to fire the kilns had forced him to seek his fortune elsewhere. In
Cornouaille, forests were more plentiful and royal permission to cut firewood easier to
obtain. Clay in the area was also abundant, and the Odet river provided a convenient means
of transport. Bousquet’s Manufacture de Pipes et Fayences soon prospered, and, thanks to
his granddaughter’s marriage, he benefited from Italian influence brought by a potter from
Nevers, a leading centre of faience manufacture. He was then joined by a manufacturer
from Rouen, another prestigious centre of faience production. In the 19th century, Alfred
Beau, a photo grapher and amateur painter from Morlaix, created a new style, based on
colourful scenes of daily life.

History of Faience
Faience was first made in southern
France and in Italy. Faience made in
Nevers, in central France, features
scenes of daily life and shows a
predominant use of yellow. Faience
made in Rouen, a major and distinctive
centre of production, is remarkably
colourful and displays a variety of
elaborate motifs, including flowers,
trees, birds and cornu copiae. In the
19th century, faience production was
dominated by the influence of Alfred
Beau and by the distinctive Quimper
style, with scenes of daily life depicted
in bright colours by the “single stroke”
technique, by which shape was defined
and colour applied by a single touch
of the brush.
View of the Odet at Quimper, overglaze decoration by
Alfred Beau, late 19th century









Plate in the Nevers and “Single stroke” New style Porquier-
Moustiers style (1773). decoration Beau (late 19th
(early 19th century). century).
Decoration
After being removed from the mould
and dried, the piece of faience was
fired in the kiln and glazed. It was
then passed to the decorators. Each Vase with
design was reproduced on paper, its Odetta design
outline pierced with holes. The paper Piece by Berthe (20th century).
was applied to the glaze and the Savigny, a mid-20th
outlines transferred with charcoal. century modeller.
The design was then filled in with a Statue of Quillivic
fine brush and the piece re-fired. (mid-20th century)





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SOUTHERN FINISTÈRE  171


g Bénodet
Potting
Road map B3 * 2,750. £
There are several ways of k Quimper-Cornouaille. n 29
modelling clay. While circular Avenue de la Mer; (02) 98 57 00 14.
pieces are shaped on the ( Place du Meneyer, Mon am.
wheel, more complex pieces
are press-moulded. To make On the border between the
highly complex pieces, liquid Bigouden and the Fouesnant
clay is poured into moulds. area, Bénodet (Benoded in
Breton) is a well-known coastal
resort on the Odet estuary.
Comfortable residences, manor
houses and chateaux line the
river. The chapel in Le Perguet,
just east of Bénodet, was once
the parish church. It was rebuilt
in the 12th century and has a
Romanesque interior and a
15th-century porch. Belfry of the Romanesque Église de
Housed in the tourist office St-Pierre, in Fouesnant
is the Musée du Bord de Mer,
a small museum devoted to h Fouesnant
The potter throws a piece on yachting in the Odet Estuary. Road map B3 * 8,460. £
the wheel. Penfoul harbour, where boat k Quimper-Cornouaille. n 4 Espace
races and regattas are held, is Kernévéleck; (02) 98 51 18 88. ( Wed
very lively. Cruises and trips out am in Beg-Meil (summer only); Fri am
to sea are offered here. At Le in Fouesnant, Sun am & Tue eve in La
Letty, just south of Bénodet and Forêt-Fouesnant (summer only).
opposite the Îles de Glénan, is ∑ tourisme-fouesnant.fr
a lagoon known as the Mer
Blanche, which attracts At an altitude of 60 m (300 ft)
numerous birds. above sea level, Fouesnant
(Fouenant in Breton) looks
E Musée de Bord de Mer across the Baie de La Forêt to
Maison du tourisme, Avenue the Îles de Glénan. The town is
The decorator adds the de la Mer. Tel (02) 98 57 00 14. in the centre of an area of lush
finishing touches. Open daily. and fertile valleys. Butter biscuits
4 Vedettes de l’Odet and the best cider in Brittany
Motorboats. Tel (02) 98 57 00 58. have largely made the
reputation of the area.
At the Fête des Pommiers
(Cider Festival), which takes
place during the third week
of July, the women wear
traditional costumes and
headdresses with large back-
folded wings, waffle collar
and lace wimple.
The Romanesque Église de
Vase by Louis Garin (mid- St-Pierre, which was restored in
20th century). the 18th century, has a pitched
roof. Inside, tall semi circular
arches rest on capitals carved
with acanthus leaves, stars
and human figures. The calvary
dates from the 18th century,
and the war memorial is by
the sculptor René Quillivic.
Cap-Coz, on the eastern
side of the Anse de Penfoulic
at Fouesnant, is a pleasant place
Dish with contemporary for a walk along the coast. From
decoration. The Mer Blanche at Bénodet, a lagoon there it is posible to reach the
attracting many birds resort of Beg-Meil.
For hotels and restaurants see p227 and pp239–41


170-171_EW_Brittany.indd 171 11/3/16 1:03 PM

172  brIT T a nY r EGIO n b Y r EGIO n

j Street-by-Street: Concarneau

The walled town (ville close), Concarneau’s ancient
centre, is set on an islet in the Moros estuary that is
just 350 m (380 yds) wide and 100 m (110 yds) long.
With narrow paved streets and picturesque houses,
the islet is very popular with visitors. It is accessible
via two bridges leading to a postern bearing the royal
coat of arms. The outer defences here, consisting of a
triangular courtyard surrounded by high walls and q U a i d E L a P o R T E a U V i n
flanked by two towers, made the town impregnable.
Visitors enter this town of medieval streets by The walled town, Concarneau’s historic nucleus,
seen from the fishing harbour
crossing an inner moat. at the western end of rue
Vauban, with old, crooked houses, is the Maison du
Gouverneur, one of the oldest houses in the ville close.
P L aCE
S ain T -G U É no L É
. Logis du Major
Beyond the triangular
courtyard, which is
defended by the Tour
du Major and Tour du
Gouverneur at two of
its corners, is the Logis
du Major, built in 1730. M i L i T a i R E R U E V a U B a n
R U E
Musée de la Pêche
R U E V a U B a n R U E T h É o P h i L E L o U a R n











Maison
du Gouverneur
Postern







Causeway


. Belfry
Fronting the towers, and
set at the third corner of Tour de la Fortune
the triangle, the belfry was The tower commands a magnificent view
once a watchtower. of the yachting harbour.
For hotels and restaurants see p227 and pp239–41


BT_172-173_AT996_A4SBS2.indd 172 17/12/14 4:49 pm

southern finistÈre  173

. Ramparts ViSiToRS’ chEcKliST
Beyond the two small
bridges at the entrance, a Practical Information
stairway on the left leads Road map B3. * 20,000.
to the ramparts. The wall n 9 Quai d’Aiguillon; (02) 98
walk gives an impressive 97 01 44. ( Mon & Fri am.
view of the ville close.
_ Féte des Filets Bleus (music
and dancing; Aug)
∑ tourismeconcarneau.fr
Q U A i D E l A P o R T E A U V i n The Amphitheatre,
facing into the ramparts,
R U E S A i n T G U É n o l É is a venue for summer
shows.



Pl Ac E R U E 0 metres 50
SAin T -G U É nol É D E l’ É G l i S E 0 yards 50




R U E V A U b A n Q UA i D U PA S S A G E Key Suggested route











Pl A c E
Powder D U P ET i T
magazine c h ÂTEA U




Porte du Passage
This gateway leads to the embarkation
point for the ferry across the Moros.

Vauban
Sébastien Le Prestre de Vauban (1633–1707),
Marshal of France and superintendent of
fortifications, is France’s most famous
military builder. Fascinated by military
techniques, he also wrote on the art of
warfare and on politics. Brittany’s strategic
Façade of the former location and new methods of warfare that
hospital were developing at the time led Vauban to
Not far from the amphi- remodel military defences on Belle-Île and
theatre, is a fine building at Concarneau, Port-Louis, Brest and St-Malo,
that was once a church, then and to build fortifications at Hoëdic and Sébastien Le Prestre
later a hospital. The façade is Houat and the Tour Dorée in Camaret. de Vauban
in the late Gothic style.




BT_172-173_AT996_A4SBS2.indd 173 17/12/14 4:49 pm

174  BRIT T AN Y REGION B Y REGION

Exploring Concarneau

The “Blue Town”, as it is known, after the blue fishing nets
that were used in the early 20th century, has an important
historic heritage. The islet of Le Conq was in habited from the
10th century by monks from Landévennec, and the earliest
fortifications date from the 13th century. By the 14th century,
the island settlement had become the fourth-largest fortified
town in Brittany. Briefly occupied by the English, the town
returned to the duchy of Brittany in 1373, then, with the
marriage of Anne of Brittany and Charles VIII, king of France,
in 1491, it became a royal town. Vauban reinforced its
defences in the 18th century. The first fish cannery opened in
1851, and 50 years later there were about 30 canning factories in
Concarneau. The disappearance of sardine stocks led to hardship
from 1905, but the Fête des Filets Bleus helped to raise funds for
families in difficulties. Today, the sixth-largest fishing port in
France, Concarneau produces 10,000 tonnes of fresh fish a year.
Château de Kériolet, in a recreated
Flamboyant Gothic style
seawater tanks. Audiovisual
facilities, the oppor tunity to
view certain species under the
microscope, and guided tours
along the coastline make for a
compre hensive understanding
of marine and coastal life.
+ Château de Kériolet
Beuzec-Conq, 2 km (1.5 miles) north of
Concarneau. Tel (02) 98 97 36 50. Open
mid-Jun–late Sep: Sun–Fri. 8 &
Built in the 13th century by
the architect Joseph Bigot, of
Quimper, the chateau was much
Concarneau’s attractive walled town, with the Îles de Glénan beyond remodelled in the 19th century
in the Flamboyant Gothic style.
E Musée de la Pêche D Fishing Harbour Among its guests was Princess
4 Rue Vauban. Tel (02) 98 97 10 20. Guided tours to auctions, trawlers and Youssoupova, aunt of the last
Open Feb–mid-Nov & Christmas canning factories, Easter–Oct: Tel (02) Russian tzar, Nicolas Romanov.
hols: Tue–Sun (daily Jul–Aug). & 98 97 01 80. The chateau, surrounded by
With dioramas and models Trawlers, tuna boats and sardine a lovely garden, is now used
complementing the displays boats are tied up along the as a venue for artistic events.
of artifacts, the Museum of Quai d’Aiguillon. Refrigerator
Fishing traces the develop ment ships that fish in tropical waters } Pointe du Cabellou
of Concarneau and its seafaring berth along the Quai Est. Road map B3. 3 km (2 miles) south of
activities from its beginnings Concarneau via the D783.
to the present day. Fishing  Marinarium Fine views of Concarneau and
methods and the town’s Place de la Croix. Tel (02) 98 50 81 64. the bay can be seen from this
maritime heritage are the Open Feb–Mar & Oct–Dec: daily pm; charming promontory just a
main focus here. There is also Apr–Sep: daily. Closed Jan. & short car ride from the town.
an aquarium containing species The Marinarium du A chic residential quarter of
of fish caught in the Collège de France, villas and gardens, shaded by
Atlantic, and, against created in 1859, pine trees, it has a coastal
the ramparts, an was one of the first footpath leading to sheltered
open-air maritime maritime research sandy coves with quiet beaches.
museum with docks stations in Europe. A 17th-century fort with a stone
where a trawler, The flora and roof stands at the tip of the
the Hémérica, and fauna of Brittany’s promontory. The path continues
a tuna boat are open Old-style tin of Breton coasts can be seen in to the Minaouët river, where
to visitors. sardines ten aquariums and there is a 16th-century tidal mill.
For hotels and restaurants see p227 and pp239–41


174-175_EW_Brittany.indd 174 11/3/16 1:06 PM

SOUTHERN FINISTÈRE  175

k Rosporden
Road map B3. 10 km (6 miles) north
of Concarneau via the D70. * 6,430.
k Quimper. @ Quimperlé. n 8 Rue
Earnest Prévost; (02) 98 59 27 26.
In the midst of lush country-
side dotted with picturesque
chapels, Rosporden stands on
the edge of a pond formed by
the Aven river. The Église Notre-
Dame, built in the 14th century The quay at Quimperlé, founded in the 11th century
and restored in the 17th, has a
fine belfry. Inside are a notable Syntheticism was created. This began to develop only in the
altarpiece and several style used bold dashes of colour 17th century. Capuchins and
interesting statues. and strong symbolism. Ursulines also settled here, and
The many footpaths here, nobles built fine residences in
and the disused Rosporde n- E Musée de Pont-Aven Rue Dom-Morice and Rue
Scaër railway line allows Place de l’Hôtel-de-Ville. Tel (02) 98 06 Brémond-d’Ars, in the lower
walkers and cyclists to explore. 14 43. Open Feb–Mar & Nov–Dec: town. Other notable buildings
Tue–Sun pm; Apr–Jun & Sep–Oct: are the Hôtel du Cosquer and
Tue–Sun; Jul–Aug: daily. & 8 the houses in Rue Savary.
l Pont-Aven R Chapelle de Trémalo Quimperlé (Kemperle in
Place de l’Hôtel-de-Ville. Tel (02) 98 06 Breton) later expanded beyond
Road map B3. * 3,000. k Quimper. 01 68. Open daily.
@ Quimperlé. n 5 Place Julia; (02) 98 its old boundaries, developing
06 04 70. ( Tue am, by the harbour around the Église Ste-Croix, in
(summer); Place de l’Hôtel-de-Ville z Quimperlé the lower town, and Place
(winter). _ La Fête des Fleurs d’Ajonc St-Michel, in the higher town.
(first weekend in Aug); Pardon de Road map C3. * 11,500. Because of the strongly
Trémalo (last Sun in Jul). @ Quimperlé. n 3 Place Charles de influential presence of the
∑ pontaven.com Gaulle; (02) 98 39 67 28. ( Fri in Place monks and nuns here, the
St-Michel; Sun am, in the covered principal monuments in
Pont-Aven was originally a small market. _ Fest Noz (Aug). Quimperlé are religious. They
fishing harbour set at the end ∑ quimperle-terreoceane.com include the Baroque Chapelle
of a ria (ancient flooded valley) des Ursulines, which holds
and surrounded by mills. Luggers This town, at the confluence of temporary art exhibitions,
trading eastwards towards the Isole and Ellé rivers, was and the Église Notre Dame
Nantes and south wards towards founded by Benedictine monks d’Assomption built in a
Bordeaux gradually transformed in the 11th century, although it Flamboyant Gothic style.
this small town into a busy port.
The 17th- and 18th-century
granite houses and paved The Pont-Aven School
streets that rise in tiers between In 1866, a colony of American painters settled in Pont-Aven.
Rue des Meunières and Place Fascinated by the picturesque character of the surroundings,
Royale date from this prosper- they painted scenes of the daily life that they observed around
ous period in the port’s history. them. Paul Gauguin arrived in Pont-Aven in 1886, and there he
From the 1860s, Pont-Aven met Charles Laval, Émile Bernard, Ferdinand du Puigaudeau
owed its fame to the painters and Paul Sérusier, artists who were later to form part of the Nabis
who settled here. Paul group. Soon after, seeking refuge from the bustle of this coastal
Gauguin’s Christ Jaune town, the group moved to the quieter surroundings of Le Pouldu,
takes as its east of Pont-Aven. Influenced by primitive art, these painters
subject the used colour expressively and evocatively, and imbued
Christ on images with a symbolic meaning.
the Cross that still Their paintings were not intended to
hangs in the Chapelle reflect reality but to embody reality
itself, with line and colour producing
de Trémalo at the top a flat image devoid of shading and
of the town, just on the perspective. Their use of tonal
edge of Bois d’Amour contrasts, their novel approach to
woods. The Musée de composition and their asceticism
Pont-Aven documents were at odds with Impressionism.
the town’s history and
Pont-Aven’s has paint ings by the La Belle Angèle, by Paul Gauguin, a leading
Christ on Pont-Aven School, member of the Pont-Aven School
the Cross where a style called




174-175_EW_Brittany.indd 175 11/3/16 1:06 PM

176-177_EW_Brittany.indd 176 11/3/16 1:03 PM

BRIT T AN Y REGION B Y REGION  177

MORBIHAN



Occupying the central southern part of Brittany, the
Morbihan, which means “little sea” in Breton, takes its
name from the .Golfe du Morbihan on the département’s
southeasterly side. With gentle landscapes bathed in sunshine,
a deeply indented coastline washed by the Atlantic Ocean, historic
towns and cities and harbours thronged with boats, the Morbihan
holds many attractions.


The history of the Morbihan goes back to that of the days in the year. The islands
the remote past. Neolithic people raised include the Île d’Arz, the aptly named Belle­
an impressive number of large and mys­ Île, the Île de Groix and the Île d’Houat,
terious standing stones here: the alignments which are a delight for nature lovers.
at Carnac and Locmariaquer between The Presqu’île de Quiberon, a narrow spit
them constitute the largest concentration of land pro truding out to sea, is almost like
of megalithic monuments in the world. a separate region. The peninsula’s indented
The Golfe du Morbihan, which is Côte Sauvage (Wild Coast) to the west
extended inland by the Auray and contrasts with its more sheltered eas tern
Vannes rivers, is almost like an inland side, where there are many beaches.
sea. Marshland and mud flats are home Great vitality characterizes towns and
to flocks of birds of various species. The cities in the Morbihan, from Vannes,
gentle climate, in which a Medi terranean which was established in Gallo­Roman
vegetation flourishes, the beauty of a times, to Lorient, which was rebuilt
landscape of ever­chan ging colours, after World War II. In the interior are
and the soft sand beaches here combine such monuments to past glories as the
to make the Morbihan a popular Château de Josselin and Château de
tourist destination. Pontivy, picturesque houses in Rochefort­
The gulf is dotted with a host of small en­Terre, and the fine his toric covered
islands, whose number is said to equal markets in Questembert and Le Faoüet.























The Neolithic alignment of 540 menhirs at Kerlescan, outside Carnac
The beautiful village of Rochefort-en-Terre in Morbihan



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178  BRIT T AN Y REGION B Y REGION

Exploring the Morbihan

The south of the Morbihan is crossed by the Vilaine, which flows into
the Atlantic just west of La Roche-Bernard. Vannes, on the far northern
side of the gulf, is the capital of the Morbihan, and a lively city with an
ever-expanding student population. The Morbihan’s two other major
conurbations – Lorient, a port with five harbours, and Auray, a charming
medieval town – are located further northwest. Water is ubiquitous in
this region; countless rivers have carved deep canyons, and rias (ancient
valleys flooded by the sea) go far inland. The Golfe du Morbihan is
almost closed and is thus sheltered from the
rigours of the open sea. Although the
Morbihan’s inland region attracts Loudéac,
Q u é n e c a n
fewer visitors, it has beautiful Fo rê t d e St-Brieuc
countryside and pretty villages. Gourin Plouray Dinan
Ellé
Quimper Rohan La Trinité- Mauron
GUÉMÉNÉ- PONTIVY Porhoët
SUR-SCORFF
Fo rê t d e
LE FAOUËT L a n o u é e
Canal de Nantes
St-Fiacre KERNASCLÉDEN Naizin
Pluméliau
Scorff Bubry Réguiny JOSSELIN Lac au PLOËRMEL Rennes
duc
Guer
Plouay
Quimper BAUD Locminé Guéhenno
Blavet
MORBIHAN
Saint-Jean-
HENNEBONT Brévelay
Guidel Claie Malestroit
Lanester Pluvigner Aff
La Gacilly
Landévant Grand-Champ
Ploemeur LORIENT Elven Oust
L a n d e s d e L a n v a u x
STE-ANNE- Forteresse de Arz
PORT-LOUIS D’AURAY Largoët d’Elven ROCHEFORT-
Larmor-Plage EN-TERRE
Belz AURAY
Basilica at Ste-Anne-d’Auray Êtel VANNES QUESTEMBERT
Port-Tudy Le Bono
LA TRINITÉ-SUR- Arradon Parc Zoologique
ÎLE DE GROIX MER de Branféré
Plouharnel Péaule Vilaine
CARNAC LOCMARIAQUER GOLFE DU Muzillac
Port-Navalo MORBIHAN
Pte. de
Kerpenhir Château LA ROCHE-
PRESQU’ÎLE DE de Kerlévenan BERNARD
Sights at a Glance QUIBERON Baie de St Gildas Château Camoël Nantes
de Suscinio
1 Lorient r Vannes pp192–5 Quiberon Quiberon de Rhuis
2 Port-Louis t La Roche-Bernard
3 Île de Groix y Questembert a Pontivy La Baule
4 Presqu’île de Quiberon u Rochefort-en-Terre
5 Belle-Île-en-Mer i Ploërmel ÎLE D’HOUAT
6 Île de Houat o Josselin Sauzon
7 Île de Hoëdic p Baud BELLE-ÎLE- Le Palais ÎLE DE
HOËDIC
8 Carnac pp184–5 a Pontivy EN-MER
9 La Trinité-sur-Mer s Guéméné-sur-Scorff
0 Locmariaquer d Kernascléden Locmaria
q Auray f Le Faouët
w Ste-Anne-d’Auray g Hennebont
e Golfe du Morbihan pp188–91
For hotels and restaurants see pp228–9 and pp241–3
178-179_EW_Brittany.indd 178 11/3/16 1:03 PM
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Explorer template “UK” LAYER
(Source v1.6)
Date 27th March 2014
Size 125mm x 217mm

MORBIHAN  179

Getting Around
From Paris, Vannes can be reached in
3 hours and 15 minutes by TGV (high-speed
train), and Lorient in 3 hours 45 minutes.
The N24 and its continuation, the N166, link
Rennes and Vannes. The fast N165, almost
all of it a dual carriageway, links Nantes
with Vannes, Auray and Lorient. Several
minor roads, including the D780, D781,
D199 and D101, run around the edge of
the Golfe du Morbihan. The best way of
The citadel at Port-Louis exploring the gulf is, however, by boat,
which provides a comprehensive view of
the islands and their beautiful coastlines.
Fo rê t d e Loudéac,
St-Brieuc
Gourin Plouray Q u é n e c a n Dinan
Ellé
Quimper Rohan La Trinité- Mauron
GUÉMÉNÉ- PONTIVY Porhoët
SUR-SCORFF
Fo rê t d e
LE FAOUËT L a n o u é e
Canal de Nantes
St-Fiacre KERNASCLÉDEN Naizin
Pluméliau
Scorff Bubry Réguiny JOSSELIN Lac au PLOËRMEL Rennes
duc
Guer
Plouay
Quimper BAUD Locminé Guéhenno
Blavet
MORBIHAN
Saint-Jean-
HENNEBONT Brévelay
Guidel Claie Malestroit
Lanester Pluvigner Aff
La Gacilly
Landévant Grand-Champ
L a n d e s d e L a n v a u x
Ploemeur LORIENT Elven Oust
STE-ANNE- Forteresse de Arz
PORT-LOUIS D’AURAY Largoët d’Elven ROCHEFORT-
Larmor-Plage EN-TERRE
Belz AURAY
VANNES QUESTEMBERT
Êtel Le Bono
Port-Tudy
LA TRINITÉ-SUR- Arradon Parc Zoologique
ÎLE DE GROIX MER de Branféré
Plouharnel Péaule Vilaine
CARNAC LOCMARIAQUER GOLFE DU Muzillac
Port-Navalo MORBIHAN
Pte. de
Kerpenhir Château LA ROCHE-
PRESQU’ÎLE DE de Kerlévenan BERNARD
QUIBERON Château Nantes
Baie de St Gildas de Suscinio Camoël
Quiberon Quiberon de Rhuis
La Baule
ÎLE D’HOUAT
Sauzon Key
ÎLE DE
BELLE-ÎLE- Le Palais HOËDIC Major road
EN-MER 0 kilometres 20 Secondary road
Minor road
0 miles 10
Locmaria
Main railway
Minor railway
Regional border
For keys to symbols see back flap
178-179_EW_Brittany.indd 179 11/3/16 1:03 PM

180  BRIT T AN Y REGION B Y REGION


stand on the site of the East E Quayside Buildings
India Company, while in the Porte Gabriel. 8 obligatory,
location of the World War II organized by the Service patrimoine.
German submarine base is La Tel (02) 97 02 23 29. Open times vary,
Cité de la Voile Éric Tabarly, a call ahead. &
museum exploring the world of E La Flore
ocean racing. Interactive La Base, Rue Roland Morillot. Tel (02)
simulators bring the experience 97 65 52 87. Open Feb–Dec; times
to life, or you can design your vary, call ahead.
own boat. Outside, moored to E Air-Raid Shelter
the quay, is a sailing ship that Place Alsace-Lorraine. Tel (02) 97 02
offers trips around the bay. Also 23 29 (Service patrimoine). Open
on the quay is the submarine La times vary, call ahead. 8 &
Flore, which can be explored
with audioguides, and on the Environs
same site there is a museum Larmor-Plage, to the south-
explaining the strategic west, has beaches and a
military importance fortified Gothic church.
of Lorient. To the east, at the
Bagpipe-player at the Festival Interceltique On Place mouth of the river,
held in Lorient Alsace-Lorraine lies the Barre d’Étel,
is a large Air-Raid a notorious
1 Lorient Shelter (abri) which sandbar. Further
now gives a flavour north, Belz leads to
Road map C3. * 121,820. £ Rue
Beauvais. @ Cours de Chazelles. of life during the St-Cado, a small
g Rue Gahinet; (08) 20 05 61 56. war years (1939–45). Teapot, 18th-century, Musée island that is popular
Sailings to the Île de Groix (all year). In the Quartier de de la Compagnie des Indes with painters.
n Maison de la Mer, Quai de Rohan; Merville are houses
(02) 97 84 78 00. ( Wed, Fri & Sat. in the Art Nouveau
_ Carnaval (Apr); Les 7 Chapelles en and Art Deco styles that 2 Port-Louis
Art (mid-Jul–mid-Aug); Festival survived the bombing raids. Road map C3. 12 km (7.5 miles)
Interceltique (Aug). The tourist office organizes southeast of Lorient via the D194
∑ lorientbretagnesudtourisme.fr trips to the roadstead (Rade de then the D781. * 3,000. £ Lorient.
Lorient) and along the Blavet n Quai de Rohan, Lorient; (02) 97 84
It was in the 17th century, when river, including a visit to the 78 00. ( Sat. _ Regattas (Jun).
the French East India Company, market at Hennebont (see p201).
based in Port-Louis, needed to The 17th-century citadel
expand, that Lorient was E La Cité de la Voile Éric Tabarly in Port-Louis, at the entrance
created. The new port became Base des sous-marins, 56200 Lorient. to Lorient’s roadstead, guards
the base for trade with the East Tel (02) 97 65 56 56. Open mid-Feb– the mouth of the Blavet and
(l’Orient), hence its name, and in Dec; times vary, call ahead. & Scorff rivers. Begun by
1770 was chosen as the site of the Spaniards, it was
the royal dockyard. Almost completed during the reign
totally destroyed in of Louis XIII, after whom it is
World War II, Lorient named. Elegant residences
has been rebuilt. dating from this period can be
Today, Lorient seen in the town, although
is France’s they suffered damage during
second-largest World War II.
port. Not only a With maps, models and
fishing port, it examples of the highly prized
handles cargo goods that they brought back
and passenger from the East, the Musée de
ships and is a la Compagnie des Indes et
yachting centre. de la Marine, within the
Keroman citadel, describes the illustrious
harbour, which history of the French East
has a large India Company.
covered fish
market, caters E Musée de la Compagnie des
to the fishing Indes et de la Marine
industry. Citadelle de Port-Louis. Tel (02) 97 82
The Quayside Buildings Painted altarpiece in the choir of the 19 13. Open May–Aug: daily; Feb–Apr
in the naval dockyard church at Larmor-Plage & Sep–mid-Dec: Wed–Mon pm. &
For hotels and restaurants see pp228–9 and pp241–3


180-181_EW_Brittany.indd 180 11/3/16 1:03 PM

MORBIHAN  181


The Fort de Penthièvre, re built
in the 19th century and now
owned by the French Army,
controls access to the peninsula.
To the west, Portivy, a fishing
harbour, leads to Pointe de
Percho, from where there is a
splendid view of Belle-Île (see
pp182–3) and the Île de Groix.
Exposed to the rigours of
the sea, the cliffs of the Côte
Sauvage (Wild Coast) are
in dented with caves and
chasms, and on stormy days the
wind swept sea at Ber-er-
Port-Tudy, on the Île de Groix, built in the 19th century Goalennec is an impressive
sight. Quiberon, once a busy
3 Île de Groix 4 Presqu’île de sardine port, is a resort now
Road map C3. * 2,320. Quiberon known mainly for its institute of
g Compagnie Océane; 0820 05 Road map C4. £ Auray or Quiberon thalassotherapy. The town was
61 56. n Jul–Aug: Port-Tudy; year- (route served by the Tire-Bouchon train launched as a coastal resort in
round: Quai de Rohan, Lorient, (02) in Jul–Aug). @ Auray. n 14 Rue de the early 20th century, when silk
97 84 78 00. ( Tue & Sat, in Le Bourg. Verdun, Quiberon; (02) 97 50 07 84. ( manufacturers from Lyon built
_ Festival International du Film Thu in St-Pierre, Sat in Quiberon & Wed villas on the seafront here.
Insulaire de l’Ile de Groix (late Aug). in Port-Haliguen (mid-Jun–mid-Sep). From Port-Maria, once a sardine
∑ lorientbretagnesudtourisme.fr port, boats sail for Belle-Île, the
_ Regatta (Jun), Régate Tour du
Morbihan (Jul), Fête de la Sardine, Port- Île de Houat and Île de Hoëdic
This picturesque island, with Maria (Jul). ∑ quiberon.com (see pp182–3). Pointe du
an area of 24 sq km (9 sq miles), Conguel, with the Phare de la
is best explored on foot, by bike Of all the areas of Brittany that Teignouse, is the peninsula’s
or on horse back. Between 1870 attract visitors, the beautiful most southerly point. During
and 1940, tuna fishing provided Presqu’Île de Quiberon the summer, regattas are
employment for up to 2,000 of justifiably draws the greatest regularly held at Port-Haliguen.
the island’s seamen. The number. It is also an exceptional St-Pierre-de-Quiberon, a
harbour at Port-Tudy would environment for sailing and family holiday resort on the
then be filled with tuna boats watersports. The peninsula, eastern side, has good beaches
rather than the pleasure boats 14 km (9 miles) long, is linked to and interesting prehistoric
moored here today. the main land by a sandbank, standing stones. There are also
The Écomusée in Port-Tudy the Isthme de Penthièvre. many sailing schools here.
describes daily life on Groix as Just off the main road D765,
well as its natural environ ment. heading south, is La Belle Iloise, E La Belle Iloise
The island’s interesting geology a sardine cannery with a museum Zone Activité Plein Ouest. Tel (02) 97
is explored in the Réserve dedicated to the history of this 50 08 77. Open Apr–Oct: Mon–Fri, Sat
Naturelle François Le Bail. important local industry. The am; Nov–Mar: Tue–Fri. 7
At the end of the road Musée de la Chouannerie, in an E Musée de la Chouannerie
running south from Créhal, a old blockhouse nearby at Plouharnel. On the D 768. Tel (02) 97
coast path leads to the Trou de Plouharmel, tells the story of the 52 31 31. Open Apr–mid-Jun: daily
l’Enfer, an impress ively deep Chouans (see p52). pm; mid-Jun–Sep: daily. &
recess in the cliff face.
On the west coast is the lovely
Plage des Grands-Sables, the
only convex beach in Europe,
and there is a bird sanctuary on
the north westerly Pointe de Groix.
E Écomusée
Port-Tudy. Tel (02) 97 86 84 60.
Open May–Sep: daily; Oct–Apr: Tue–
Sun. Closed public hols &
O Réserve Naturelle
François Le Bail
Île de Groix. Tel (02) 97 86 55 97.
Open Jul–Aug: Tue–Sat am; Sep–Jun:
Tue & Thu am. Alignment of menhirs at St-Pierre-de-Quiberon




180-181_EW_Brittany.indd 181 11/3/16 1:03 PM

182  BRIT T AN Y REGION B Y REGION

5 Belle-Île-en-Mer

The largest island in Brittany, Belle-Île (Beautiful Island) well
deserves its name. Its unspoiled environment, of heathland
carpeted in gorse alternating with lush valleys, its beaches
and well-kept villages attract numerous holiday-
makers. Continually fought over on account of
its strategic position south of Quiberon, the Pinte des Pointe des Poulains
Poulains
island was held by the English in 1761. It The lighthouse and its setting held
was finally exchanged for Minorca in 1763. great appeal for Sarah Bernhardt.
Quiberon
Stěr-Vraz
Sauzon
Grotte de
I’Apothicairerie Pointe de
Taillefer



Sauzon
The town’s colourfully painted houses and
the steep-banked inlet here captivated
painters and poets, including Victor Vasarely
and Jacques Prévert in the 1950s and ’60s.

Port-Donnant is
framed by sheer
cliffs. The beach Grand Phare Bangor
here is spectacular. commands a view
stretching from Lorient
to Le Croisic.


Port-Goulphar Île de
The cove at Port-Goulphar and the Bangor
jagged rocks at Port-Coton, where
breakers foam furiously, were Bangor is a small town
portrayed by the painter Claude near some of the wildest
Monet in 1886. stretches of coast.
6 Île de Houat hermit. In Port-St-Gildas, the
harbour below Houat, fishing
Road map D4. * 345. g from
Quiberon, Compagnie Océane; 0820 boats come and go.
056 156; In summer, also from Port- Vestiges of Houat’s former
Narvalo, Vannes, Locqmariaquer; (02) importance as a military base
97 46 60 00. n Mairie; (02) 97 30 68 include the Beniguet battery, the
04. _ Fête de la Mer (15 Aug). En-Tal redoubt and a ruined fort.
∑ iles-du-ponant.com Cyclists riding through the quiet village The Éclosarium, just outside
of Houat the village, is a plankton research
Like the neighbouring Île and breed ing centre where
de Hoëdic, the Île de Houat the grey granite rocks are visitors can see microscopic
(Duck Island in Breton) forms flecked with red. marine life. The Plage de Treac’h-
part of the Ponant archi pelago. Four fifths of the island are er-Goured, on the southeastern
Just 5 km (3 miles) long and covered with heathland. Houat, side, is one of Houat’s more
1 km (0.5 mile) wide, Houat the island’s only village, has sheltered beaches.
can be explored easily on neat whitewashed houses. The
foot. A coast path encircles Église St-Gildas, built in 1766, E Éclosarium
the island, taking in Pointe is dedicated to the 6th-century 1 km (0.5 mile) from Houat. Tel (02) 97
Beg-er-Vachif, where, at sunset, saint who came to live here as a 52 38 38. Open Easter–Sep: daily. &
For hotels and restaurants see pp228–9 and pp241–3


182-183_EW_Brittany.indd 182 11/3/16 12:42 PM

MORBIHAN  183


VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Sarah Bernhardt
Born Rosine Bernard in Paris, the actress Practical Information
known as Sarah Bernhardt (1844–1923) Road map C4. * 5,000. n Quai
made her debut at the Comédie Bonnelle, Le Palais; (02) 97 31 81
Française. From 1870 to 1900, she 93. ( daily in Le Palais & Locmaria
dominated Parisian theatre and made (Jul–Aug) & Sun in Sauzon. _
successful tours abroad. In 1894, she Festival Lyrique (Jul–Aug); Fête de
la Mer (15 Aug); Regatta La Tour de
discovered Belle­Île and fell in love with Belle Ile (Sep). ∑ belle-ile.com
the island. She purchased the Bastion de
Basse­Hiot, bought land at Pointe des Transport
Poulains, and in 1909 became the owner g all year from Quiberon
of the Domaine de Penhoët. There is a (Compagnie Océane: 0820 056
museum at the Pointe des Poulains 156); Apr–Oct also from Port­
Sarah Bernhardt on Belle-Île dedicated to her life. Navalo, Vannes, Locmariaquer
(Navix: 02 97 46 60 00). Jul–Aug
from La Turballe, Le Croisic (Navix).
Pointe de
Taillefer
Quiberon
Le Palais Key
Port Navalo,
Vannes Main road
Minor road
Ferry route
Le Palais
The harbour of this town, the capital
of Belle­Île, is dominated by a citadel.
The museum here documents the
island’s history.


Pointe de
Kerdonis
0 kilometres 4
0 miles 2
Locmaria
Locmaria has several beaches that
are ideal for watersports. The town
Plage des Grands-Sables also contains the island’s oldest
is the island’s largest beach. Pointe du church, built in 1714.
Skuel
7 Île de Hoëdic beaches alternate with jagged,
rocky creeks.
Road map D4. * 140. g from
Quiberon, Compagnie Océane; 0820 Le Bourg, in the centre of
056 156. n Mairie; (02) 97 52 48 88. Hoëdic, is a traditional village
_ Fête de la Mer (15 Aug). with long, low houses, white­
washed and south­facing. The
As its Breton name suggests, the Église St­Goustan is worth a visit
Île de Hoëdic (Little Duck Island) for its attractive blue and gold
is smaller than its big sister, the ceiling and its thanks giving
neighbouring Île de Houat, just plaques. Northeast of Bourg,
5 km (3 miles) to the northwest. the 19th­century Fort d’Hoëdic
Hoëdic is 2.5 km (1.5 miles) long contains a short­stay gîte and
and 1 km (0.5 mile) wide, and exhibitions devoted to the
like Houat, it is easy to explore island’s plants, animals and
on foot. local history.
The island’s ubiquitous
heathland is scattered with sea E Fort d’Hoëdic
pinks and sea bindweed. Tel (02) 97 52 48 82. Open Jun–Aug: Sailing off the Île de Hoëdic, an island with
Along the coast, superb daily. Closed Mon am. a beautiful coastline
For keys to symbols see back flap


182-183_EW_Brittany.indd 183 11/3/16 12:42 PM

184  BRIT T AN Y REGION B Y REGION

8 Carnac Chalcolithic and the appearance
of the earliest bronze tools,
Brittany’s best-known prehistoric site is, without doubt, Carnac. the Bronze Age (1800–750 BC),
The alignments of 3,000 standing stones – which may originally the Iron Age, and the Gallo-
have numbered over 6,000 – are the most extraordinary group Roman period, which is fittingly
of menhirs in the world. The oldest date from the Neolithic illustrated by objects found at the
Villa des Bosséno, near Carnac.
period and the most recent from the Bronze Age. Although
their significance remains unknown, they were probably  Alignements de Kerzérho
connected to religion. Apart from its famous megaliths, Carnac Along the D781 heading north from
also has wide sandy beaches and a lively commercial centre, Carnac to Lorient, just before arriving
at Erdeven. Tel (02) 97 55 64 60.
making it a popular coastal resort for summer visitors. Open daily. 8 arranged at tourist
office, 7 Rue Abbé Le Barh, Erdeven.
These alignments are made up
of 1,130 menhirs arranged east
to west in 11 rows. A line
consisting of 29 menhirs,
perpendicular to the west, has
two stones over 4 m (13 ft) high.
These standing stones are
known locally as the “Soldiers
of St Cornely”, and the location
“Caesar’s Camp”, recalling
Erdeven’s history, from Roman
occupation to Christian times.

The Alignements de Kerlescan, with 240 standing stones
Exploring Carnac E Musée de Préhistoire
Carnac consists of the town 10 Place de la Chapelle, Carnac-Ville.
itself and of Carnac-Plage, the Tel (02) 97 52 22 04. Open Apr–Jun &
beach that was created from Sep–Oct: Wed–Mon; Jul–Aug: daily;
scratch out of a lagoon in 1903. Nov & Mar: Wed–Mon pm. Closed
The Renaissance Église Jan–Feb. & 8
St-Cornély, in the centre This important museum contains a
of the town, was built in the collection of some 500,000 artifacts,
17th century and is dedicated although only 6,000 pieces are
to the local patron saint of shown at a time. They are
horned animals. This honour presented in chronological order. The fountain with two troughs in
highlights the importance The ground floor is devoted to St-Colomban
of agriculture, and of oxen the Palaeolithic (450000–12000
in particular, to the local BC), Mesolithic (12000–5000 BC),  Alignements de Carnac
community. The figure of St and Neolithic (4500–2000 BC) Northeast Of Carnac-Ville. n Visitor
Cornély, framed by oxen, can periods. The Neolithic period, centre at la Maison des Megaliths,
be seen above the pediment when the megaliths were built Ménec. Tel (02) 97 52 29 81. Open all
of the west door. The wooden (see p41), is particularly well year. & (free Oct–Apr) 8 May–
ceiling inside the church is illustrated. Menhirs (standing Sep: obligatory, check times with
decorated with 18th-century stones), cromlechs (menhirs in a visitor centre.
frescoes, those over the nave semicircle), dolmens (tombs Carnac’s standing stones, just
showing scenes from the life consisting of two upright stones outside the town, consist of
of St Cornély. roofed by a third), cairns (galleried three groups, the alignments
Southwest of Carnac, graves), tumuli (burial mounds), at Ménec, Kermario and
overlooking the Anse du and allées couvertes (graves in the Kerlescan, which are framed at
Pô, is St-Colomban, a form of covered alleys) are each their eastern and western limits
picturesque fishing village explained. Axes made of polished by cromlechs. To protect the site
where oysters are farmed. A jadeite (a green stone), pottery, from large numbers of visitors,
few old houses cluster around jewellery, bone and horn tools, wire fencing has been erected
the Flamboyant Gothic chapel, and flint arrowheads, blades and around the alignments.
built in 1575. There is also a handaxes provide a picture of The precise purpose of the
16th-century fountain with life in Neolithic times. There are alignments remains unknown.
two troughs, one for also models and reconstructions. The most likely explanation is
washerwomen and the other The first floor is devoted to that they were great religious
for animals to drink from. subsequent periods: the centres where regular
For hotels and restaurants see pp228–9 and pp241–3


184-185_EW_Brittany.indd 184 11/3/16 1:03 PM

MORBIHAN  185


gatherings took 11 rows and the VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
place, perhaps where tallest stones are
rituals connected to 4 m (13 ft) high. Practical Information
a sun god were Other megaliths Road map C3-4. * 4,320.
performed. here include the n 74 Avenue des Druides;
The Alignements Tumulus de Kercado (02) 97 52 13 52. Place de l’Église,
de Kerlescan, in the (east of Kermario), a Carnac-Ville. ( Wed & Sun.
direction of La Trinité, dolmen dating from _ Pardon de la St-Colomban
consist of 555 menhirs Fresco in the Église 4670 BC with a (Aug); Marché Nocturne (Thu,
arranged in 13 lines. The St-Cornély, Carnac gallery leading to summer); Breton tales legends, at
the menhir known as the Géant
southwest end is a burial chamber du Manio (Wed, late Jul–early
marked by a cromlech of 39 with engraved walls, and the Aug); Pardon de la St-Cornély
stones. On the heath is the dolmens at Mané-Kerioned. (Sep). ∑ ot-carnac.fr
Géant du Manio, a menhir 6 m The best time to see Carnac’s
(20 ft) high. menhirs is at sunrise, when the Transport
The Alignements de Kermario stones cast extraordinary £ Auray. @
consists of 1,029 menhirs laid shadows, and it is best to walk
out in ten rows. This alignment the alignment from east to west. daily 50-minute tours of the
has some of the most beautiful Carnac’s tourist office alignments and beaches.
standing stones in Carnac. supplies an itinerary and map A running commentary is
The Alignements du Ménec, for a 5-km (3-mile) tour of the given in several languages,
further west, contain the most most important sites. From including English. Further
representative stones. The 1,099 April to September there is information is available at
menhirs here are arranged in also a tourist train that makes www.petittrain-carnac.com.
Auray,
Carnac’s Megalithic Sites Ploëmel Vannes
Lorient
Locmaria
Erdeven
Alignements
de Kerzehro


Dolmen
de Crucuno Dolmen
Roch-Feutet
Dolmen Dolmen de la
de Mané Madeleine
Kerioned
Tumulus
du Moustoir
Dolmen
de Keriaval
Alignements
de Kerlescan
Dolmen
de Rondossec Alignements Géant du Manio Riviére de Crac’h
de Kermario
Plouharnel Alignements Tumulus Crac’h
de Kercado
du Ménec Kermario
Tumulus
St-Michel
Carnac La Trinité-
sur-Mer
Carnac
Plage
Baie de Quiberon
Key 0 kilometres 2
Main road 0 miles 1
Minor road
Quiberon

For keys to symbols see back flap


184-185_EW_Brittany.indd 185 11/3/16 1:03 PM

186  BRIT T AN Y REGION B Y REGION


 Megaliths (Grand Menhir
Brisé, Table des Marchands &
Er-Grah Tumulus)
At the entrance to the town, near
the cemetery. Tel (02) 97 57 37 59.
Open daily. Closed 1 Jan, 1 May,
25 Dec. &8
Environs
The Pointe de Kerpenhir, op posite
Port-Navalo ( see p188), southeast
of Locmariaquer, offers a
panoramic view of the Golfe du
Morbihan. The granite statue of
The Grand Menhir Brisé (Great Broken Menhir) at Locmariaquer, 5 m (16 ft) wide and Notre-Dame de Kerdro protects
originally 20–30 m (65–98 ft) high sailors and yachtsmen. Behind
Plage de Kerpenhir is the Allé
9 La Trinité-sur-Mer sailing boats and catamarans Couverte des Pierres-Plates, a
and boat rides on the Crac’h corridor grave with two burial
Road map C4. * 1,530. £ Auray.
@ g Navix; (02) 97 46 60 00. Sailings are available in summer. chambers engraved with motifs,
to Ile d’Arz & Ile Aux Moines & cruises and connected by a long passage.
in the Golfe du Morbihan. n 30 0 Locmariaquer
Cours des Quais; (02 97 55 72 21).
( Tue & Fri. _ Spi Ouest France Road map D4. 10 km (6 miles) east of q Auray
(regattas; Easter); Ar-Men Race La Trinité-sur-Mer via the D 781. Road map D3. * 10,590. £ 2 km
(Ascension). ∑ ot-trinite-sur-mer.fr * 1,400. £ Auray. 4 Navix; (02) 97 (1 mile) from the town centre.
46 60 00. Trips to Belle-Île & cruises in n Chapelle de la Congrégation, 20
Nestling in a sheltered ria, La the Golfe de Morbihan (Jul–Aug). Rue du Lait; (02) 97 24 09 75. 8 Jul–
Trinité-sur-Mer is the time- n Rue de la Victoire; (02) 97 57 33 05. Aug: Thu. ( Mon & Fri on Place
honoured meeting place of ( Tue & Sat (Jul-Aug). _ Pardon Notre-Dame; Thu–Sat (Jul-Aug) at
sailing enthusiasts. The town’s (Jul); Troc et Puces (Jul); Fête de St-Goustan farm. _ St-Goustan Book
sailing club, founded in 1879, is l’Huître (Aug). ∑ morbihan-way.fr & Postcard Fair (Fri, May–Sep).
one of the oldest in France, and ∑ auray-tourisme.com
it was here that Éric Tabarly, This charming coastal resort
Peyron and other yachtsmen also has some of the most Tucked away at the end of a ria,
began their careers. From April impressive megalithic monu- Auray (An alre in Breton) stands
to September, regattas take ments in Brittany. Just outside on a promontory overlooking
place in the harbour, which is the town is the Table des the Loch river. With its old
large enough to accommodate Marchands, a Neolithic galleried houses and attractive harbour,
1,250 yachts. La Trinité also has a grave dating from 3700 BC. this is a delightful town. It also
fishing industry, which supplies Its stones are engraved with has its place in the history of
the town’s lively fish market. scrolls, an axe shape and Brittany. It was the Battle of
A coast path leads from the depictions of cattle. Behind the
harbour to the beaches, taking Table des Marchands, a path
in Pointe de Kerbihan. The Pont leads to the Mané-Lud tumulus,
de Kérisper, in the direction of con sisting of 22 engraved
Carnac and spanning the Crac’h stones forming a corridor. The
river, offers a breathtaking view Er-Grah Tumulus, 140 m (460 ft)
of the river, which incorporates long, is a burial mound.
oyster farms further upstream These monuments date
and the marina further down- from a time when people
stream. Trips out to sea in were using polished stone
axes, had learned to make
pottery, and had begun to
keep animals and plant crops.
Having adopted a settled way
of life, they turned to raising
impressive monuments.
The Grand Menhir Brisé,
dating from 4500 BC, is 20 m
(65 ft) long and weighs 350
tonnes. It lies broken into four
The Table des Marchands, a Neolithic pieces, but is the largest known Detail of the 17th-century altarpiece in the
galleried grave near Locmariaquer menhir in the western world. Église St-Gildas in Auray
For hotels and restaurants see pp228–9 and pp241–3


186-187_EW_Brittany.indd 186 11/3/16 1:06 PM

MORBIHAN  187


The Imp of the High Seas
Éric Tabarly (1931–98), once a captain
in the French Navy, was the ultimate
yachtsman of the second half of the
20th century. Such eulogy would have
embarrassed this shy man, who would
face cameras with a modest smile. He
had a long list of victories to his name.
His first came in 1964, sailing in the Pen
Duick II, when he won the second Solo
Transatlantic Race, beating the British.
Tabarly became a French yachting Waxwork of John Paul II in the Musée de
legend in the process and, as the newly Cire, Ste-Anne-d’Auray
popular art of sailing gripped the nation,
Éric Tabarly aboard the Côte d’Or others were inspired to emulate him. w Ste-Anne-d’Auray
Road map D3. 7 km (4 miles) north of
Auray via the D17. * 1,950.
atmosphere has captivated £ Auray. n 9 Rue de Vannes; (02)
many painters. The steep, 97 24 34 94. ( Wed. _ Grand
narrow streets behind Pardon (late Jul).
the harbour are also
worth exploring. The second-greatest shrine
in France after Lourdes,
Environs and honoured by a visit from
Just north of Auray is the Pope John Paul II in 1999,
mag nificent Abbaye de Ste-Anne-d’Auray became a
Chartreuse. Inside is a black- major place of pilgrimage in
and-white marble mausoleum the 17th century.
with sculp ted reliefs by David St Anne, mother of the Virgin
d’Angers. At St Dégan, near Brech, Mary, appeared numerous
is the Ecomusée St Dégan. times to a humble ploughman,
Housed in a group of renovated Yves Nicolazic, whom she
farm buildings, its exhibits instructed to build a chapel.
recount early-19th-century When a statue was discovered
Timber-framed houses in the Quartier peasant life. The picturesque at the spot that she had indi-
St-Goustan, Auray fishing village of Le Bono lies cated, a church was built there.
6 km (4 miles) southeast of Auray. It was replaced by the present
Auray, in 1364, that brought an The view from the suspension basilica in 1872. The church
end to the War of the Breton bridge (1840) is spectacular. contains stained-glass windows
Succession (see p46) . depicting scenes from the life
The Église St-Gildas has a E Ecomusée St-Dégan of St Anne and of the
Renaissance doorway (1636) Venelle de l’Ecomusée. Tel (02) 97 57 66 ploughman. The Trésor
and contains a remarkable 00. Open Feb–Jun & Sep: Mon–Fri pm; (Treasury) in the cloisters
Baroque altarpiece (see p70) Jul–Aug: Mon–Fri, & Sat–Sun pm. & contains votive plaques,
made by a sculptor from Lavalle seascapes and model ships,
in 1657. Place de la République and statues dating from the
is surrounded by elegant 15th to the 19th centuries.
houses, including the Maison The Musée de Cire de
Martin and the Hôtel de l’Historial, opposite the basi-
Trévegat, both dating from lica, traces the origins of the
the 17th century, and the town town as a place of pilgrimage
hall, built in 1776. and describes the life of
From the belvedere and the Nicolazic. The town is also
promenade above the Loch, the site of the Monument
where terraced gardens are laid aux Morts, a memorial to the
out in tiers below the castle, 250,000 Bretons who died in
there is a beautiful view of the World War I.
river and the harbour.
A 17th-century stone bridge R Trésor de la Basilique
at the bottom of the town leads Tel (02) 97 57 68 80. Open daily pm.
to St-Goustan, which was once Closed Jan–Feb. &
Auray’s port. Here, medieval E Musée de Cire de l’Historial
timber-framed houses line the The 17th-century cloisters at 6 Rue de Vannes. Tel (02) 97 57 64 05.
quay, whose peaceful Ste-Anne-d’Auray Open Mar–Oct: daily. &




186-187_EW_Brittany.indd 187 11/3/16 1:06 PM

188  BRIT T AN Y REGION B Y REGION

e Golfe du Morbihan

This large bay was created 9,000 years ago, when global warming caused the sea level
to rise. About 15,000 years earlier, the sea level was 100 m (330 ft) lower than it is today,
and Belle-Île was attached to the mainland. The rising sea gradually created hundreds
of islands, the largest of which are the Îsle d’Arz and the Île aux Moines. The Golfe du
Morbihan consists of two parts: an eastern basin, which is flatter, rather like a lagoon;
and a western basin, which is defined by a rocky coastline and where there are strong
currents. Here, the sea bed is uneven, particularly around Port-Navalo, where depressions
can be as much as 30 m (100 ft) deep. The constant ebb and flow of the tide circulates
volumes of water from the Atlantic, encouraging thousands of species of marine plant
and animal life to thrive. These in turn provide food for indigenous and migratory birds.






Auray

Quiberon,
Lorient Plougoumelen
Bono

Arradon
Auray
Île Berder
At low tide, it is possible
to walk across the sand Baden
to the island. Pointe
Port- d’Arradon
Blanc
La Trinité-
sur-Mer, Larmor- Île aux
Carnac Baden Île Moines
Berder
Île Île
Longue
Locmariaquer Gavrinis
Île
Godec
Pointe de
Kerpenhir
Port-
Navalo Arzon
Port
du Crouesty
. Port-Navalo
This small port is also a holiday
resort. The coast path offers
beautiful views in all directions.


St-Gildas-
de-Rhuys
0 kilometres 5
0 miles 3
Église St-Gildas-de-Rhuys
Founded in the 11th century, the church
still has its original transept and choir.
For hotels and restaurants see pp228–9 and pp241–3


188-189_EW_Brittany.indd 188 11/3/16 1:03 PM

GOLFE DU MORBIHAN  189


VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Road map: D 4. n Auray (02) 97
24 09 75; Locmariaquer (02) 97 57
33 05; Sarzeau (02) 97 53 69 69;
Vannes (02) 97 47 24 34.
Transport
£ Auray & Vannes.  Arradon,
Arzon, Baden, Île aux Moines, Île
d’Arz, Locmariaquer, Sarzeau. Ó
. Pointe d’Arradon
This promontory commands spectacular views of the Île aux Moines
and the Île d’Arz.
Pontivy,
St-Brieuc
Ploërmel,
Rennes

Vannes

Nantes Île d’Arz
A walk around the island takes in
this old restored tidal mill.
Arradon Île Conleau
Sené
Key
Noyalo
Pointe
d’Arradon Main road
Minor road
Ferry route
Île d’Arz
Île aux
Moines
Île Hur St-Armel
Île
Godec



Château
de Kerlévenan
Sarzeau

Presqu’île de Rhuys
Château
de Suscinio

St-Gildas-
de-Rhuys
. Château de Suscinio
In the Middle Ages, the castle was the main
residence of the dukes of Brittany. It was abandoned
after the Revolution but, at the suggestion of the
writer Prosper Mérimée, it was classified as a historic
monument in 1835. Now under municipal
ownership, it contains a museum of Breton history.
For keys to symbols see back flap


188-189_EW_Brittany.indd 189 11/3/16 1:03 PM

190  BRIT T AN Y REGION B Y REGION


Exploring the Golfe du Morbihan
Focal point of the Morbihan region, the Golfe du Morbihan
is 20 km (12 miles) wide and covers 12,000 ha (30,000 acres).
The gulf, with its deeply indented coastline and many islands, can
be explored by boat from Vannes, Port-Navalo, Auray, La Trinité or
Locmariaquer. Tourism, together with shellfish and oyster farming,
are major industries here, and, although fishing, sailing and other
activities have also developed, the gulf is a haven for bird life. Detail of the stoup in the Église
The land around it is dotted with menhirs, dolmens and tumuli. St-Gildas-de-Rhuys

} Pointe d’Arradon The Île d’Arz (Bear Island),  Cairn de Gavrinis
Road map D3. 9 km (6 miles) south­ which attracts fewer visitors Road map D4. Île Gavrinis. Tel (02)
west of Vannes via the D101 then than the Île aux Moines, can 97 57 19 38 g Larmor­Baden.
the D101a. n (Jun–Sep) 2 Bouruet be explored on foot as it is Open Apr–Sep: daily (make
Aubertot, Arradon; (02) 97 44 77 44. only 3 km (2 miles) long and reservations 24 hrs in advance). & 8
( Tue & Fri. 1 km (0.5 mile) wide. The low, Discovered in 1832, this
The Pointe d’Arradon is whitewashed, slate­roofed single­chambered passage
sometimes referred to as the houses and lush vegetation grave is considered to be
“Riviera of the Gulf”. There are here create a typical image unusual both on account of its
some stunning houses here and of Brittany. construction – of a type that
the view takes in the Îles Logoden, The island is dotted with makes it one of the oldest in the
Île Holavre and Île aux Moines. menhirs and dolmens, with a region – and because of its
particular concentration on engravings. When the writer
} Île d’Arz Pointe de Liouse. The Église Prosper Mérimée visited it in
Road map D4. g 15 mins from Notre­Dame, in the town, has 1835, he was struck by “stones
Vannes (02) 97 44 44 40; Navix, (02) 97 Romanesque capitals decorated covered in peculiar drawings…
46 60 00. n Mairie, Île d’Arz; (02) 97 with grotesque figures. Boating curved, straight, broken and
44 31 14. _ Pardon, on Île d’Hur (late enthusiasts will find two sailing wavy lines combined in a
Jul); regattas (Aug). schools on the island. hundred different ways”.

Cairn de Gavrinis Carved Stone No. 8
Measuring 16 m (52 ft), the Cairn de Gavrinis is has engravings in
the longest dolmen in France. The gallery leading to the which the central motif
burial chamber consists of 29 stones, some of which are is a shield. This is
engraved with symbolic motifs including shields, scrolls, usually a schematic
axes, horn shapes and other signs. Inferences about depiction of an
the significance of these signs gives an insight into the anthropomorphic deity.
meaning of such inscriptions.







Gallery
The cairn, still
an impressive
6 m (20 ft) high,
is almost intact.





The stones forming the gallery
were carefully selected and
positioned so as to minimize the
gaps between each of them.
For hotels and restaurants see pp228–9 and pp241–3


190-191_EW_Brittany.indd 190 11/3/16 1:03 PM

GOLFE DU MORBIHAN  191


} Île aux Moines Métiers, at the Le Net
Road map D4. g from Baden, quai roundabout, contains recon-
de Port-Blanc, with Izenah Crosières structions of workshops and
(02) 97 26 31 45. n (Apr–Sep) the shops dating from the 1600s
harbour; (02) 97 26 32 45. ( summer: to the 1950s. Between here
daily; winter: Wed & Fri. _ Semaine and Arzon stands the Tumulus
du Golfe (gathering of old sailing de Tumiac, also known as
ships, May/Jun, every 2 years from Caesar’s Mound because the
2017); Festival de la Voile (Aug).
future Roman emperor is reputed
This cruciform island, 6 km to have used it as a lookout.
(4 miles) long and 3 km (2 miles) At the western tip of the
wide, once belonged to the peninsula, Port-Navalo and Port
Abbaye de St-Sauveur in Redon An attractive 18th-century building on the du Crouesty are modern coastal
(see p70). The largest island in the Île aux Moines resorts. The coast path here
Golfe du Morbihan, it has been commands impressive views of
in habited since Neolithic times, open to visitors. A small the gulf. It is also worth calling
and it has several megalithic Chinese band stand lends at the pretty little port of Le
sites. The most notable are a touch of exoticism. The Logeo, opposite the Îles Branec.
the cromlech at Kergonan, the Château de Suscinio, on Sarzeau, in the centre of the
largest in France, and, further the south coast, is surrounded peninsula, has fine 17th- and
south, the dolmen of Pen-Hap. by marshland. Built as a 18th-century residences. The
Like the neighbouring Île d’Arz, hunting lodge in the 13th chapel at Penvins, nearby,
the Île aux Moines has fine 17th- century, it was converted into dates from 1897.
and 18th-century houses. Its a fortress in the 14th century. Migratory birds can be
mild microclimate supports a It has a draw-bridge flanked observed from footpaths on
vegetation asso ciated with by towers, walls set with the peninsula’s north coast.
more southerly climes. watchtowers, and a moat fed
Eucalyptus, mimosa, camellia by the sea. In the 15th century, + Château de Kerlévenan
and fig all thrive here. As for the François II and his daughter, On the D780. Tel (02) 97 26 46 79.
island’s forests – Bois d’Amour Anne of Brittany, chose Nantes Park: Open Jul–mid-Sep: Sat–
(Wood of Love), Bois des Soupirs rather than Suscinio as their Thu pm; mid-Sep–Jun: by
(Wood of Sighs) and Bois des place of residence, and the arrangement. & 8
Regrets (Wood of Regrets) – castle fell into neglect. It + Château de Suscinio
their names alone are houses a permanent exhibition
conducive to gentle reverie. on the restoration of the From Sarzeau, take the D198. Tel (02)
Each of the promontories on Château, as well as 97 41 91 91. Open Apr–Sep: daily;
Oct–Mar: daily pm. & 8
the island’s indented coastline temporary exhibitions.
offers spectacular views of St-Gildas-de-Rhuys, further E Musée des Arts et Métiers
the gulf. west, is named after an English RD780. Tel (02) 97 53 68 25.
monk who established a Open Jul–Aug: Mon–Sat & Sun pm;
} Presqu’île de Rhuys monastery here in the 6th century. Sep–Jun: Tue–Sun pm (only groups).
Road map D4. South of the Golfe The Musée des Arts et des Closed mid-Nov–mid-Mar. &
du Morbihan, via the D780 from
Vannes. n offices at Sarzeau,
St-Gildas-de-Rhuys, Port du Crouesty;
(02) 97 53 69 69. ( Sun in St-Gildas-
de-Rhuys; Tue in Port du Crouesty;
Mon in Port du Crouesty (Jul–Aug).
_ Semaine du Golfe (gathering of
old sailing boats; Ascension, 40 days
after Easter, every 2 years from 2017);
Spectacles Historiques, (summer);
Fête de la Mer (Aug).
Like Quiberon (see p181), this
peninsula has two different
aspects: a sheltered north-
facing side, and a southern
side that is exposed to the
rigours of the Atlantic.
The Italianate Château de
Kerlévenan dates from the
18th century. The building is
closed to the public, but its
huge walled gardens, planted
with shrubs and trees, are The chapel at Penvins, near Sarzeau, in the form of a Greek cross




190-191_EW_Brittany.indd 191 11/3/16 1:03 PM

192  BRIT T AN Y REGION B Y REGION

r Street-by-Street: Vannes

The medieval centre of Vannes is a honeycomb of narrow
streets which, like those around the Cathédrale St-Pierre,
are lined with well-restored timber-framed houses. The main
entrance into the walled town, a busy commercial district,
is Porte St-Vincent, near Place Gambetta. The walls on the
eastern side offer a fine view of the town, with formal
gardens laid out below, and also pass the city’s old wash
houses. The harbour, to the south, is a lively centre of activity.
. City Walls and Gardens
Part of the Gallo-Roman walls
around the old town survives.




H E L L E C

L E
R U E

R U E N O É
R U E D E L A P O I S S O N N E R I E
Place Gambetta
This square, opposite the marina, is
always busy. It is a central meeting PL ACE
place for the inhabitants of Vannes, DE
who fill the café terraces here. VALENCIA
PL A CE
PLACE DU POIDS PUBLIC
GAMBE T TA
The fish market takes RUE SAINT VINCENT PL ACE
place twice a week, on DES LICES
Wednesdays and Saturdays.
RUE DE LA PORTE POTERNE R E M PA R T S






Château de l’Hermine R U E D E S
The chateau was built
in the 18th century The new
on the site of the market sells
residence of the dukes fresh produce
of Brittany. It is fronted year-round.
by extensive formal
gardens, where it is Porte Poterne leads to
pleasant to walk. the gardens beneath
the city walls.


Wash Houses
0 meters 100 Located beside the
Marle river, the city’s
0 yards 100 wash houses date
from 1820. They
were still in use after
World War II.
For hotels and restaurants see pp228–9 and pp241–3


192-193_EW_Brittany.indd 192 11/3/16 1:03 PM

V ANNES  193


Place Henri-IV VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
The square is lined with
timber-framed houses Practical Information
dating from the 15th and Road map D3. * 54,000.
16th centuries, the oldest n Office du Tourisme Vannes-
in Vannes. In the Middle Golfe du Morbihan, Quai Tabarly,
Ages, a popular bird (02) 97 47 24 34. ( Wed & Sat.
market was held here. _ Fêtes Historiques (Jul);
Festival de Jazz (Jul); Nuits
Musicales du Golfe (Jul–Aug);
Musée d’Histoire et Fêtes d’Arvor (traditional dancing
d’Archéologie and music, Aug).
∑ tourisme-vannes.com
Musée de la Cohue is the main art
gallery of Vannes, set in a building
of great historic interest. . Doorway of the
Cathédrale St-Pierre
Built in the 16th century
in the Flamboyant
Gothic style, the
doorway is lined
with niches that,
RUE BURGAULT Breton tradition,
in keeping with
contain statues
of the Apostles.
RUE DES HALLES H E N R I I V RUE BILLAUT
RUE SAINT SALOMON
N O É
P L AC E
PL ACE
SAINT-PIERRE executioners, whose profession
DE
VALENCIA PLACE Porte St-Jean was the home of
passed from father to son.
RUE DES
ORRFÉVRES
RUE DE LA RUE SAINT CHANOINES R U E
PL ACE
MONNAIE
DES LICES
PL ACE RUE SAINT GUENAËL B R I Z E U X
L AROCHE
R E M PA R T S R U E D E S PL ACE

D E S V I E R G E S BRÛ L É E P R I S O N R U E P O R T E

. Place des Lices
The square is surrounded by
well-kept timber-framed
houses, the most recent
dating from the 17th century.

Porte Prison, dating from the 13th and
15th centuries, was the main gateway into
Vannes. Criminals were imprisoned there.

Tour du Connétable
The tower, the highest in Vannes, was
built in the 16th century and is now Key
owned by the city authorities, who have Suggested route
restored it. It has a pointed roof and
mullioned windows.




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194  BRIT T AN Y REGION B Y REGION


Exploring Vannes Many of the houses in the area
around the square have unusual
The history of Vannes goes back to Roman times, when it decoration. The house at No. 13
was known as Darioritum. In the 5th century, it was a diocese Rue Salomon has animal carvings
and, in the Middle Ages, a city of major importance. Vannes and, on the corner of Rue Noé,
expanded during the 14th century, when it became the is the famous inn sign in the form
of “Vannes et sa Femme”, the
capital of Brittany. As a university town, an administrative couple who ran the tavern.
centre and the capital of the Morbihan, it is again expanding In the 17th century, when the
rapidly today. The city also attracts large numbers of Breton parliament was exiled in
sightseers and holiday-makers. Vannes, many fine granite or
stone town houses (hôtels) were
built here. The Hôtel de Lannion,
in Impasse de la Psalette, flanked
by a projecting turret, was once
the residence of the governors of
Vannes and Auray. The Hôtel de
Limur, in Rue Thiers, with a Neo-
Classical façade, is a three-storey
residence with a courtyard
and a garden.
E Musée de la Cohue
9 & 15 Place St-Pierre. Tel (02) 97
01 63 00. Open Jun–Sep: daily pm;
Oct–May: Tue–Sun pm.
Closed public holidays. &
This museum is laid out in a
restored covered market (cohue)
whose origins go back to the
13th century. While market stalls
occupied the ground floor, the
Porte Poterne, the city’s postern gate, built in the 17th century first floor housed the ducal
courts of the Breton parliament,
P Town Walls R Cathédrale St-Pierre when the latter was exiled to
Vannes was once completely Open 8:30am–6:30pm daily. & Vannes in 1675 on the orders of
surrounded by defensive walls. From a vantage point on the Louis XIV. The building was then
Two thirds of these remain, and Colline du Mené, the Cathédrale used as a theatre until the 1950s.
some have been incorporated St-Pierre dominates the old Now an art gallery, its most
into more recent buildings. town. It was built in the prized exhibit is Delacroix’s
Part of the Gallo-Roman walls Flamboyant Gothic style, but Crucifixion. Millet, Corot and
survive on the north side of has neo-Gothic additions dating Goya are also represented.
the city. from the 19th century. The work of Breton painters,
Vannes’ finest gateway is on A rotunda chapel dedicated including Maufra, Henri Moret,
its southern side, opposite the to the Holy Sacrament is built Paul Helleu, and of engravers
harbour. This is Porte St-Vincent, into the north aisle. A jewel native to Vannes such as Frélaut
built in 1624. It was restored in of Renaissance architecture, it and Dubreuil, are also displayed,
1747, when the gate’s existing has a double tier of niches with as is that of contemporary
arrow slits and machicolation pediments and high windows artists, including Tal Coat,
were replaced by niches framed by semicircular arches. Soulages and Geneviève Asse.
with shell motifs and columns It contains the tomb of St
with capitals. Vincent-Ferrier, a Spanish monk E Musée d’Histoire et
From here to Porte Prison, renowned for his preaching. A d’Archelogie
on the north side of the town, Gobelins tapestry decorates the Château Gaillard, 2 Rue Noé. Tel (02) 97
the wall walk overlooks formal wall and there is an outstanding 01 63 00. Open Jun–Sep: daily pm. &
gardens laid out in the former 16th-century Flemish altarpiece. Housed in the 15th-century
moat. It also passes Porte The cathedral treasury Château Gaillard, which once
Poterne (1678), and the historic contains some fine metalwork. accommodated the Breton
wash houses nearby. Other parliament, this archaeological
towers in the town walls include P Old Town museum contains prehistoric
Tour de la Trompette, Tour de Place Henri-IV, at the heart of artifacts from sites in the
la Poudrière, Tour de la Joliette, the old town, is lined with 15th- Morbihan. These include axes
and Tour du Bourreau. The and 16th-century half-timbered of polished jadeite and jewel-
highest is Tour du Connétable. houses, the oldest in Vannes. lery made of variscite (a kind of
For hotels and restaurants see pp228–9 and pp241–3


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V ANNES  195


turquoise). Coins struck by the
Veneti, a local Gaulish tribe,
pieces from Roman Gaul, and
medieval and Renaissance
artifacts are also displayed.
P Place Gambetta
This semicircular square, lined
with the white façades of
residential blocks, was laid
out in the 19th century and is
today one of the liveliest parts
of Vannes. The harbour lies
im mediately to the south, so
that pleasure boats can sail right The marina in Vannes, just south of Place Gambetta
up into the heart of the city.
The Battle of the Veneti. There are lakes and woods, is traversed
Environs also theatre-like reproductions by footpaths and cycle tracks.
From the Place Gambetta, of a cairn, a Druid tree and a
Promenade de la Rabine is a Veneti ship. E Le Ker
wide walkway that becomes The Forteresse de Largoët Rue Gilles Gahinet, Parc du Golfe. Open
the coast road leading to the d’Elven, 14 km (9 miles) north- Mar–Oct: daily; Nov–Feb: daily pm. &
Parc du Golfe complex. This east of Vannes, is an example of
contains Le Ker, a new museum medieval Breton architecture. + Forteresse de Largoët
that gives a hi-tech overview The fortress has two towers d’Elven
of the history of Brittany from and a curtain wall dating from From Vannes, take the N166 then the
prehistoric times to the arrival the 13th century, a 14th-century D135 at St-Nolff. The fortress is about
of the Romans. The highlight keep, a gatehouse and a 3 km (2 miles) further north. Tel (02)
is a 4-D film recreating naval 15th-century circular tower. 97 53 35 96. Open mid-Mar–May: Sat
warfare between the local The surrounding Landes de & Sun pm; Jun & Sep: Wed–Mon; Jul–
tribespeople and the Romans, Lanvaux, heathland with Aug: daily. Closed Oct–mid-Mar. &
Vannes City Centre
1 Cathédrale St-Pierre 800m (900 yards) Forteresse de
Gare SNCF
2 Old Town 800m (900 yards) Largoët d’Elven
Gare Routiere
RUE
3 Musée de la Cohue DE LA BOUCHERIE AV VICTOR HUGO
4 Musée d’Histoire et COLONEL-MAURY St-Patern
RUE DU
d’Archéologie LORIENT RUE J. LE BRIX RUE DU MÉNÉ RUE SAINT PATERN
5 Place Gambetta R U E H O C H E St-Jean RUE BRIZEUX C HANO I N E S
Porte
Porte
Hôtel MARCHAIS T HI ERS R UE B ILL AU LT Prison
de Ville PL. M. RUE EMILE BURGAULT PLACE
R U E D E LA FONTAINE
DE
RUE RUE DES RUE DU MARÉCHAL
GAULLE
PLACE
HENRI-IV Cathédrale LECLERC
R U E D U P OT D ’ É TA I N
CLOSMADEUC RUE ST-SALOMON St-Pierre
R U E L E S A G E Musée de la ST-PIERRE RUE DES VIERGES Jardins
RUE DE
PLACE
Cohue
Musée PLACE RUE FRANC I S DE C K E R de la
Archéologique VALENCIA PLACE Prefecture
LAROCHE
RUE NOE
PLACE DE LA
RÉPUBLIQUE R ROGUE la Marle
Old
Town PLACE RUE D E L A MONNAIE Tour des Connétables
DES
RUE LE HELLEC
LICES
PLACE
RU E T HI E RS Market DU POIDS RUE ST-VINCENT RUE PORTE POTERNE Garenne
Parc
PUBLICS
Porte Poterne
de la
Fish
R U E R I C H E MONT
l’Hermine
Porte Château de
St-Vincent NANTES
RUE DU PORT RUE CARNOT GAMBETTA RUE A. LE PONT O I S
PLACE
0 metres 300
0 yards 300 Key
Port
Le Kerr See pp192–3
3.5km (2.2miles)
For keys to symbols see back flap
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196  BRIT T AN Y REGION B Y REGION


traces the history of navigation u Rochefort-en-
on the Vilaine and documents Terre
the rural life of the region.
Road map E3. 33 km (20 miles) east of
Environs Vannes via the N166, the D775 and
The Parc Zoologique de the D774. £ Questembert. n Place
Branféré, 20 km (12 miles) du Puits; (02) 97 26 56 00. _ Pardon
northwest of La Roche-Bernard, (mid-Aug); Les Médiévales (mid-Aug).
has over 100 species of animals ∑ rochefortenterre-tourisme.bzh
that roam in relative freedom.
Built on a promontory above
E Musée de la Vilaine Maritime the Gueuzon river, this village
6 Rue Ruicard. Tel (02) 99 90 83 47. has a medieval atmosphere.
Open mid-Jun–mid-Sep: daily. & Because of its strategic position,
O Parc Zoologique de Branféré the site has been fortified
Le Guerno, via the N165. Tel (02) 97 42 since Roman times. A keep
94 66. Open mid-Feb–mid-Apr: daily overlooking Rochefort was built
pm; mid-Apr–early Nov: daily. & in the 12th century, and in the
15th the town was enclosed
The 16th-century town hall in by walls. Demolished on two
La Roche-Bernard y Questembert previous occasions, the castle
was again destroyed during
t La Roche- Road map D3. 28 km (17 miles) east the Revolution. In 1907, Alfred
of Vannes, via the N165, the D775 and
Bernard the D5. £ n 13 Rue des Halles; (02) Klots, an American painter,
97 26 56 00. ( Mon am, Wed pm. _ restored it and moved into
Road map E4. 34 km (21 miles) Festival Arts de la Rue (Aug); Pardon in the castle’s 17th-century
southeast of Vannes on the N165. Bréhardec (15 Aug) outbuildings. While the castle
£ Ponchâteau. n 14 Rue du ∑ rochefortenterre-tourisme.com has been closed for many years,
Docteur-Cornudet; (02) 99 90 67 98. the moat walk offers a good
( Thu.
This small town – “chestnut- view of the surroundings. The
tree land” in Breton – owes its former castle museum is now
Perched on a rocky spur, La former prosperity to the fairs the Naïa Museum, presenting
Roche-Bernard stands at an that took place here, in the contemporary art by more than
important intersection on covered market (1675). Nearby 40 international artists. The
the estuary of the Vilaine. In the is the former Hostellerie Jehan finest houses in Rochefort, with
11th century, a village grew le Guenego, built in 1450 and granite or schist façades carved
up around the fortress and, the oldest house in the town. with decorative motifs, are in
six centuries later, Richelieu It now houses the tourist Grande-Rue and Place du Puits.
ordered naval dockyards to office. The 16th-century Hôtel The Église Notre-Dame-de-la-
be installed. It was here that Belmont next door is enlivened Tronchaye, built on the hillside
the three-decker La Couronne, by some remarkable wooden and dating from the 15th and
pride of the French navy, was caryatids. There are many 16th centuries, has a façade in
built in 1634. producers of duck foie gras the Flamboyant Gothic style.
The port consists of a in the area. Features of interest within
marina, along the Vilaine, and
of the old harbour that was later
abandoned in favour of the
Quai de la Douane. Salt, corn,
wine, quicklime and chestnut
wood once passed through
the docks here. In the old
town, which rises in tiers, is the
16th-century Maison du Canon,
which houses the town hall, and
the Auberge des Deux Magots,
on Place du Bouffay. There
are former salt warehouses in
Rue de la Saulnerie.
The Musée de la Vilaine
Maritime is laid out in the
16th-century Maison des
Basses-Fosses, where the
ground floor is carved out of
the living rock. The museum Wooden roof of the 17th-century covered market in Questembert
For hotels and restaurants see pp228–9 and pp241–3


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MORBIHAN  197


but Romanesque columns
survive in the choir. Recumbent
statues of Olivier de Clisson
(see p198) and of his wife,
Marguerite de Rohan, lie near
the miraculous statue.
Rues des Vierges, Olivier-
de-Clisson and Trente are
lined with fine 16th- and
17th-century houses. The
Musée des Poupées, at No. 3
Rue Trente, contains some 600
wax, wooden and porcel ain
dolls dating from the 17th and
18th centuries. Chapelle Ste-
Croix (1050), on the banks of
the Oust, is the oldest chapel
in the Morbihan.
Place du Puits, in the flower-filled village of Rochefort-en-Terre
E Musée des Poupées
include beams decorated with the town’s oldest building. 3 Rue Trente. Tel (02) 97 22 36 45.
monsters, woodcarvings on the The astronomical clock (1855), Open Apr–mid-Jul & Sep: daily pm;
theme of death (left of the pulpit) near the Lycée Lamennais, mid-Jul–Aug: daily; Oct: Sat & Sun pm.
and a Renaissance altarpiece. was made by a member of the Closed Nov–Mar. &
A 16th-century calvary stands Ploërmel brotherhood, which
on the church square. was founded by the older Environs
brother of the writer Félicité From the Middle Ages, the Forêt
E Naïa Museum de Lamennais (see pp31 & 53). de Lanouée, 10 km (6 miles)
14 Rue du Château. Tel (02) 97 40 12 35. north of Josselin, provided
Open Mar–Sep: Tue–Sun; phone to Environs firewood for the ironworks
check at other times. Closed Jan. & The Circuit de l’Hortensia is a where cannon balls were made.
walk around the Lac au Duc, They were at their most
1 km (0.5 mile) northwest of productive in the 18th century.
i Ploërmel Ploërmel. The lake is bordered by The parish close at Guéhenno,
2,000 hydrangeas representing 11 km (7 miles) southwest of
Road map D3. £ Vannes. * 8,000.
n 5 Rue du Val; (02) 97 74 02 70. 12 different types of these Josselin, is the only complete
8 Jul–Aug: Mon & Thu. ( Fri. colourful flowering shrubs. example in the Morbihan.
_ Fest Noz (Oct); Free concerts (Jul– Two statues of soldiers guard
Aug). ∑ tourisme-ploermel.com the entrance to the ossuary,
o Josselin where there is a figure of the
This town was one of Road map D3. £ Vannes. * 2,500. resurrected Christ. The calvary
the places of residence of the n 4 Rue des Remparts; (02) 97 22 36 43. is the most spectacular part of
dukes of Brittany. The tombs ( Sat. _ Fest Noz (Apr); Festival the close. It dates from 1550
of Jean II and Jean III lie in the Médiéval (14 Jul); Pardon St-Eloi but was badly damaged in the
16th-century Église St-Armel, (8 Sep). ∑ josselin-tourisme.com Revolution. Eventually a parish
near the tomb of Philippe de priest undertook its restoration.
Montauban. The fine stained- Linen weaving and the linen A column with the symbols of
glass window with the trade created Josselin’s the Passion of Christ stands in
Tree of Jesse is the work wealth. The town has at front of it.
of Jehan le Flamand. least two important
The north entrance buildings: the Château
is decorated with de Josselin (see pp198–9)
some strikingly and the Basilique Notre-
expressive reliefs Dame-du-Roncier, with
depicting the vices legendary origins.
and the Last Judgment. A miraculous statue of
The Maison des the Virgin was found
Marmousets (1586), under brambles (ronces)
opposite the tourist and a church was built
office in Rue Beau- Figure, Maison des on the holy spot. The
manoir, has some Marmousets basilica that now stands
unusual reliefs. Next on this legendary site is
door is the Hôtel des Ducs de in the Flamboyant Gothic style, Marguerite de Rohan, Basilique
Bretagne, which, built in 1150, is with typically Gothic gargoyles, Notre-Dame-du-Roncier, Josselin




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198  BRIT T AN Y REGION B Y REGION


Château de Josselin
Perched on rocks opposite the Oust river, the Château
de Josselin, once the stronghold of the Rohan dynasty,
is an impressive sight. It is defended by four towers built
by Olivier de Clisson in the 14th century. The castle’s
military severity is softened by the more delicate inner
façade, dating from the early 16th century and
looking onto gardens. A fine Flamboyant Gothic
building, the castle has delicately carved Detail of the chimney piece, with the
granite galleries, pinnacles, balustrades and Rohans’ motto, “A Plus”
chimney pieces, and is decorated with a
range of motifs, including fleurs-de-lis,
stoats and lozenges.











. Library
Containing 3,000 volumes, the library
was remodelled in the Neo-Gothic
style in the 19th century.


. Interior
North Façade
This side of
the castle
has dormer
windows
with
ornamental
pediments.
Each window is
different, and together
they embody the
decorative repertoire
of the time.

Olivier de Clisson
One of the most illustrious owners of the Château
de Josselin was Olivier de Clisson (1336–1407).
He married Marguerite de Rohan and in 1370
acquired the castle. De Clisson harboured a
long hatred of the king of France, who had KEY
ordered his father’s execution because of his
support of the English. During the War of 1 Prison tower
Equestrian statue the Breton Succession, de Clisson sided with 2 Ten dormer windows rising
of Olivier de Clisson the English. However, he later transferred through two storeys cover almost
his allegiance to the French, befriending half the façade.
Bertrand du Guesclin and succeeding him 3 The main courtyard is an ideal
as constable of France. De Clisson finally gave his daughter in place from which to take in this fine
marriage to the son of Charles of Blois, his erstwhile enemy. Gothic building.

For hotels and restaurants see pp228–9 and pp241–3


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