(DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Brittany

MORBIHAN  199


. Grand Salon VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
The room has a
chimney piece Practical Information
decorated with Place de la Congrégation.
garlands and Tel (02) 97 22 36 45. Ground
hunting scenes, as floor: Open Apr–mid-Jul: 2–6pm
well as 18th-century daily; mid-Jul–Aug: 11am–6pm
furniture and a daily; Sep: 2–5:30pm daily; Oct:
portrait of Louis XIV 2–5:30pm Sat–Sun; school hols:
painted by Rigaud. pm daily. Closed Nov–Mar. &








Façade over the Oust
The fortress stands on
an outcrop of schist at
the foot of which runs
the Oust river. Only four
of the nine towers
raised by Olivier de
Clisson survive.
























Entrance
gate









Entrance Gate Dining Room
Beyond the entrance gate is an The Neo-Gothic furniture in the dining room is
inner façade with a wealth of the work of a local cabinetmaker and the design of
intricate carving. the chimney piece echoes that in the Grand Salon.




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200  BRIT T AN Y REGION B Y REGION


timber-framed houses and a
great castle; and an imperial
town, with straight avenues
arranged around Place
Aristide- Briand. This latter
district was laid out on the
orders of Napoleon, who
aimed to make Pontivy a base
from which to fight back
against the Chouans (see p52).
The Château des Rohan,
which was begun in 1479
by Jean II de Rohan, is a fine
Machicolated defences at the Château des Rohan in Pontivy example of military archi-
tecture. The seignorial living
p Baud E Cartopole Conservatoire de la quarters overlooking the
Carte Postale courtyard were remodelled in
Road map D3. 24 km (15 miles) north
of Auray via the D768. £ Auray. * 3 Avenue Jean Moulin, Baud. the 18th century. Exhibitions
4,930. n Place de L’Eglise, Plumeliau Tel (02) 97 51 15 14. Open Jun– and shows take place at the
(Apr–Oct). Tel (02) 97 08 04 07.( Sat. Sep: Mon–Sat pm; Oct–May: Tue– castle in summer.
∑ tourisme-baud-communaute.fr Sun pm. & The old town spreads out
around the castle. Of the old
The small town of Baud town walls, only la Porte de
overlooks the Evel valley. a Pontivy Carhaix survives. The finest
In the upper town is the Road map D3. * 14,500. houses here, built in the 16th
Chapelle Notre-Dame, £ @ Rue d’Iéna. and 17th centuries, are those
with an interesting n Duchesse Anne on Place du Martray and along
16th-century apse. (barge), Quai Niémen; Rue du Fil and Rue du Pont.
In the lower town (02) 97 25 04 10. A canal runs alongside
is the 16th-century ( Mon. _ Kan ar Pontivy, making the town
Fontaine Notre- Bol (Breton tales and an important intersection for
Dame-de-la-Clarté, songs, Apr). river traffic. The towpath also
which provides ∑ tourisme-pontivy offers the chance of walks
water for the old Fontaine Notre-Dame- de- communaute.com through beautiful countryside.
wash houses here. la-Clarté in Baud
Also of interest is This town, the + Château des Rohan
the Cartopole Conservatoire capital of the Rohan dynasty, Tel (02) 97 25 12 93. Open Closed
de la Carte Postale, with consists of two distinct parts: for renovation, phone ahead for
a collection of 20,000 the medi eval town, with current information. &
post cards depicting
local history.
Napoleon-ville
Environs In 1790, Pontivy sided with the Republicans and the town became
About 2 km (1 mile) south- the focus of the Chouan royalists’ war (see p52). In March 1793, 10,000
west of Baud, near a ruined recalcitrant peasants attacked the town. Napoleon chose Pontivy as a
castle, is a statue known base from which to lead a counter-attack. He also decided to canalize
as the Vénus de Quinipily. the Blavet river between Brest and Nantes and built a new town.
Standing about 2 m (7 ft) When the Napoleonic Empire collapsed, the project was still
high, the almost naked unfinished. An imperial district was, however, built during the reign
figure is inscribed with the of Napoleon III.
mysterious letters “LIT”.
Either Egyptian or Roman,
it may represent Isis, a
fertility goddess revered
by Roman legionaries.
Public footpaths traverse
the woods around Baud.
The Blavet valley also
contains a large number
of interesting calvaries,
fountains and chapels.
In summer, exhib itions of
contemporary art are held Mairie de Pontivy, built during the Napoleonic period
in many of the villages.
For hotels and restaurants see pp228–9 and pp241–3


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MORBIHAN  201

s Guéméné-sur- f Le Faouët
Scorff Road map C3. 35 km (22 miles) north
Road map C2. 19 km (12 miles) west of of Lorient via the D769. * 3,000.
Pontivy via the D782. * 1,500 £ Quimperlé. n 3 Rue de Cendres;
£ Lorient. n 5 Place du Château; (02) 97 23 23 23. ( first and third
(02) 97 28 01 20. ( Thu. _ Fête de Wed in the month. _ Pardons (last The stud at Hennebont, housed in a former
l’Andouille (late Aug). Sun in Jun, third Sun in Aug).
∑ tourismepaysroimorvan.com ∑ tourismepaysroimorvan.com Cistercian abbey
Once the seat of the Dukes of Isolated in undulating wood ed g Hennebont
Rohan, Guéméné-sur-Scorff landscape, the village of Le Road map C3. 13 km (8 miles)
was the object of bitter dispute Faouët has a fine 16th- century northeast of Lorient, via the D769
during the War of the Breton covered market. then the D769 bis. * 14,000. £
Succession (see p46). The town Set in a former convent, the n 9 Place du Maréchal-Foch; (02) 97
is now a centre of andouille Musée des Peintres du Faouët 84 78 14. ( Thu. _ Medieval
(sausage) production. The contains paintings of Breton festivals (late Jul, every other year,
buildings on Place Bisson country life. In the Musée de next in 2018); Pardon (late Sep). ∑
reflect its former prosperity. l’Abeille Vivante et La Cité des lorientbretagnesudtourisme.fr
Fourmis, visitors can observe
bees and ants. Overlooking the steep banks
of the Blavet river, Hennebont
Environs was once one of the largest
The chapels in the vicinity of fortified towns in the area. On
Le Faouët – St-Nicolas, Ste-Barbe Place Foch, with a central well
and St-Fiacre – are each worth (1623), is the Basilique Notre-
a visit. The most interesting is Dame-du-Paradis, built in the
the Chapelle St-Fiacre, 3 km (2 16th century. The walled town,
miles) southeast of Le Faouët, damaged during World War II,
Frescoes in the choir of the church in in the Flamboyant Gothic style is defended by the Porte du
Kernascléden and with a gabled belfry. It also Broërec’h. This 13th-century
contains a beautiful rood screen. gatehouse contains a museum
d Kernascléden The Parc Aquanature Le of local history. A view of the
Stérou, 6 km (4 miles) south- gardens and the river can be
Road map C3. 30 km (19 miles)
southwest of Pontivy via the D782. east of Le Faouët, is a 70-ha enjoyed from the rampart walk.
n ∑ tourismepaysroimorvan.com. (170-acre) nature park with The Haras National (National
a population of deer. Stud), where 75 thoroughbreds
It is worth stopping at this little (including Breton post-horses,
village to visit the 15th- century E Musée des Peintres du Faouët Arabs and Selle Français) are
church, which contains frescoes 1 Rue de Quimper. Tel (02) 97 23 15 27. kept, is housed in a former
that are among the finest of their Open Apr–Jun & Sep–Oct: Tue–Sat, Cistercian abbey. Visitors can
period. The choir is decorated Sun pm; Jul–Aug: daily. & see the farrier’s forge, the tack
with scenes of the life of the E Musée de l’Abeille Vivante room, the stables, the school
Virgin and of Christ’s childhood. Kercadoret, Le Faouët. Tel (02) 97 23 08 and a collection of carriages.
In the crossing is a chillingly 05. Open Apr–Jun: daily pm; Jul–Aug: At Inzinzac, the former Forges
realistic depiction of the Dance daily; Sep–mid-Nov: Tue–Sun pm. & d’Hennebont iron works operated
of Death, similar to that in the O Parc Aquanature Le Stérou from 1860 to 1966 and played
Chapelle Kermaria-an-Iskuit Route de Priziac. Tel (02) 97 34 63 84. a role in the local economy.
(see p107), in the Côtes d’Armor. Open Apr–Oct: daily. & Now a museum, the Écomusée
Industriel, exhibits metal working
techniques, and workers’ living and
working conditions at the time.
E Musée des Tours Broërec’h
Rue de la Prison. Tel (02) 97 36 29 18.
Open Jun–Sep: daily.&
G Haras National
Rue Victor-Hugo. Tel (02) 97 89 40 30.
Open mid-Apr–mid-Oct; phone
ahead for times. &
E Écomusée Industriel
Inzinzac, Zone Industrielle des Forges.
Tel (02) 97 36 98 21. Open Apr–Jun &
The Oratoire St-Michel, attached to the Chapelle Ste-Barbe, near Le Faouët Sep–Oct: Mon–Fri, Sun pm; Jul–Aug:
Mon–Fri, Sat & Sun pm. &



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BRIT T AN Y REGION B Y REGION  203

LOIRE-

ATLANTIQUE


Between Ancenis in the east and St-Nazaire in the west, the
great Loire river winds lazily, cutting through verdant lands and
flowing through Nantes, the region’s capital, before broadening into
an estuary as it empties into the Atlantic. While the north of the Loire-
Atlantique is a region of lakes and woodland, the south is characterized
by mud flats, especially on the Guérande peninsula to the west.


Both in historical and in geographical The Loire-Atlantique is made up
terms, the Loire-Atlantique is assuredly of a mosaic of distinct areas. While the
Breton. Yet, incorporated into the Pays de Presqu’île de Guérande and the coastal
la Loire in 1969, the region is also oriented town of Le Croisic grew rich long ago from
towards the south and the Vendée, to salt-panning, La Baule and the surrounding
the southwest. coastal resorts came into their own in the
The central axis of the Loire-Atlantique is late 19th century. The industrial city of
the Loire estuary, which provides a link St-Nazaire enjoyed a golden age in
with the Atlantic. On it stands Nantes, the the first half of the 20th century.
former capital of the dukes of Brittany, While the Pays de Retz, to the west, is a land
and today not only the capital of the of pasture, beaches and mud flats fringed by
Pays de la Loire but also the largest city the sea, the Pays d’Ancenis, to the east,
in western France. Until the mid-19th is a major wine-producing area, where
century, the Loire was a major artery for hillsides are dotted with terracotta-roofed
the transport of com mercial goods: salt houses. The Forêt de Gâvre and the
from Guérande and fish from the Atlantic countryside around Châteaubriant, to
were transpor ted inland by boat. the north, offer yet more lush landscapes.


























View over the bridge near the port of Le Croisic
Boats moored on the banks at Port St Martin



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204  BRIT T AN Y REGION B Y REGION

Exploring the Loire-Atlantique

Named after the river that traverses it from east to west,
flowing into the Atlantic Ocean at St-Nazaire, the Loire-Atlantique
is Brittany’s most southerly region. The northwest of this
département, consisting of the Presqu’île de Guérande and
the great nature reserve of La Grande Brière, is dominated by
heathland with outcrops of granite, by marshland and by a rocky
coastline. Slate-roofed or thatched houses are ubiquitous here.
The area around Châteaubriant, in the north, contains a central Vitré
expanse of woodland with outcrops of blue-grey schist. This
is good walking country. South of the Loire, vineyards where Traditional salt pans near Guérande Laval
Muscadet and Gros Plant are grown stretch as far as the eye can Rennes CHÂTEAUBRIANT
see. In the Pays de Retz, which borders the Atlantic in the west,
wide sandy beaches alternate with marshes where salt has been Derval St-Julien-
gathered since ancient times. Moisdon- de-Vouvantes
Guéméné- la-Rivière
Penfao
Treffieux
Don
Nozay La Meilleraye-
de-Bretagne
Plessé FORÊT St-Mars-
Vannes
DU GÂVRE la-Jaille Angers
Saffiré
St-Gildas- Riaillé
Sights at a Glance des-Bois Blain Erdre Joué-s-Erdre
1 Guérande Herbignac Pontchâteau Château Canal de Nantes Nort-sur- Angers
2 Le Croisic de la Groulais Erdre Mésanger
3 La Baule PARC NATUREL Bouvron Héric Ligné
4 Pornichet Piriac- REGIONAL DE LA LOIRE- A TLANTIQUE P AY S D ’ A N C E N I S
5 St-Nazaire sur-Mer Kerbourg GRANDE BRIÈRE Prinquiau Varades
7 Nantes pp210–15 La Turballe Savenay Treillières Oudon Ancenis
8 Pornic GUÉRANDE Montoir-de- Loire
9 Pays de Retz Trignac Bretagne Saint-Étienne- Carquefou
0 Clisson LE CROISIC Paimbœuf de-Montluc
q Pays d’Ancenis Batz-sur-Mer LA BAULE ST-NAZAIRE Orvault
w Châteaubriant PORNICHET Loire Le Loroux-
e Forêt du Gâvre Bottereau
St-Brévin-les-Pins St-Père- NANTES
Tour en-Retz Le Pellerin Château de Goulaine
6 Parc Naturel Régional St-Michel-Chef-Chef Rezé Vertou Vallet
de la Grande Brière
Pointe du PORNIC Bouaye
St-Gildas Cholet
Lac de
Grande- Passay Aigrefeuille- CLISSON
sur-Maine
Les Moutiers- P AY S D E R E T Z Lieu
en-Retz Gétigné
Bourgneuf-en-Retz
St-Philbert-
de-Grand-Lieu
Machecoul
Île de
Noirmoutier Niort
Key
Motorway Challans Touvois Legé
Major road
La Roche-
Secondary road sur-Yon
Minor road
Main railway
Minor railway
The harbour at Le Croisic Regional border
For hotels and restaurants see p229 and p243


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L OIRE-A TLANTIQUE  205






0 kilometres 20
0 miles 10




Vitré
Traditional salt pans near Guérande
Rennes CHÂTEAUBRIANT Laval

Derval St-Julien-
Moisdon- de-Vouvantes
Guéméné- la-Rivière
Penfao
Treffieux Allée Turenne, in Île Feydau, Nantes
Don
Nozay La Meilleraye-
de-Bretagne
Plessé FORÊT St-Mars-
Vannes
DU GÂVRE la-Jaille Angers
Saffiré
St-Gildas- Riaillé
des-Bois
Blain Erdre Joué-s-Erdre
Pontchâteau Canal de Nantes
Herbignac Château Nort-sur- Angers
de la Groulais Erdre Mésanger
Bouvron Héric Ligné
PARC NATUREL
Piriac- REGIONAL DE LA LOIRE- A TLANTIQUE P AY S D ’ A N C E N I S
sur-Mer Kerbourg GRANDE BRIÈRE Prinquiau Varades
La Turballe Savenay Treillières Ancenis
Oudon
GUÉRANDE Trignac Montoir-de- Carquefou Loire
Bretagne
Saint-Étienne-
LE CROISIC Paimbœuf de-Montluc
Batz-sur-Mer LA BAULE ST-NAZAIRE Loire Orvault
PORNICHET Le Loroux-
Bottereau
St-Brévin-les-Pins
St-Père- NANTES Château de Goulaine
en-Retz Le Pellerin
St-Michel-Chef-Chef Rezé Vertou Vallet
Pointe du PORNIC Bouaye
St-Gildas Cholet
Lac de
Grande- Passay Aigrefeuille- CLISSON
sur-Maine
Les Moutiers- P AY S D E R E T Z Lieu
en-Retz Gétigné
Bourgneuf-en-Retz The ruins of Château de Clisson
St-Philbert-
de-Grand-Lieu
Machecoul
Île de
Noirmoutier
Niort Getting Around
Nantes has an international airport and is also only 2 hours
Touvois
Challans 15 minutes from Paris by TGV (high-speed train). The most direct
Legé
road route from Paris to Nantes is the A11 motorway. From
La Roche-
sur-Yon there, taking the A82, then the N171, leads to St-Nazaire. The Pays
de Retz, in the west, can be explored by taking the D213 from
St-Nazaire or the D751 from Nantes. The N137 leads to the Pays de
Gâvre, in the north, while the D178 runs north to Châteaubriant.
The D723, along the Loire, leads to Ancenis, to the east. To the
south, the N249 then the D763 run to Clisson.
For keys to symbols see back flap
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206  BRIT T AN Y REGION B Y REGION


of the old town, was built in 2 Le Croisic
the 13th century and later Road map D4. * 4,450. £
remodelled. The interior has @ La Baule. k Nantes-Atlantique.
14th- and 15th-century stained n 6 Rue du Pilori; (02) 40 23 00 70.
glass, and Romanesque capitals ( Thu & Sat. _ Fête de la Mer (Jun),
carved with scenes of Les Vieux Métiers de la Mer (Jul–Aug).
martyrdom and fantastic
animals. The Musée de la Set on a peninsula reaching
Poupée et du Jouet Ancien 5 km (3 km) into the Atlantic,
contains dolls and toys dating Le Croisic is both an active
from 1830 to the present day. fishing port and a popular
resort. The old town has some
Environs fine houses dating from the
The D99 running northwest time when salt was shipped
Porte St-Michel, the main entrance into out of Guérande leads to La from Le Croisic to destinations
the walled town of Guérande Turballe, the largest sardine as distant as the Baltic. In the
port on the Atlantic coast. The Océarium du Croisic, one of
1 Guérande market where the fish auction the largest private aquariums
takes place has an exhibiton in France, the marine life of the
Road map D4. * 12,000.
£ La Baule. k Nantes-Atlantique. on fishing. Past Pointe du Atlantic coast can be observed.
n 1 Place du Marché-au-Bois; 0820 Castelli, the road reaches the The Flamboyant Gothic
150 044. ( Wed & Sat. _ Fête resort of Piriac-sur-Mer, where Église St-Guénolé has a high
Medievale (early Jun), La Salicorne a granite church stands amid tower from which Batz-sur-
(Jun); Les Celtiques de Guérande narrow streets. Mer can be seen. The granite
(Aug). ∑ ot-guerande.fr The D774 south from Chapelle Notre-Dame-du-
Guérande winds through salt Mûrier, built in the 15th
Overlooking extensive salt marshes, leading to Saillé, a century, is now in ruins.
marshes on the Presqu’Île typical salt-panning village.
de Guérande, this town has The Maison des Paludiers Environs
long depended on the salt- documents the history of salt- The Musée des Marais Salants
panning industry. Although panning on the peninsula. in Batz-sur-Mer, 5 km (3 miles)
this industry began in Roman southeast of Le Croisic, docu-
times, it became important + Ramparts and Porte St-Michel ments the history of the salt
only in the 15th century. Rue Saint-Michel. Tel (02) 28 55 05 marshes and the lives of salt
The old town is enclosed 05. Open Apr–Oct: 10am–noon & panners in the 19th century.
within 14th- and 15th-century 2–6pm Tue–Sun, Mon pm only. &
ramparts, much of which are E Océarium du Croisic
open to visitors; a walk along E Musée de la Poupée Avenue de St-Goustan, Le Croisic.
the top gives excellent views 23 Rue de Saillé. Tel (02) 40 15 69 13. Tel (02) 40 23 02 44. Open daily.
of the town. Access is via the Open mid-Feb–Mar: daily pm; Apr– Closed Three weeks in Jan. & 7
Oct: daily. Closed Nov–mid-Feb. &
Porte St-Michel, the gatehouse ∑ ocearium-croisic.fr
and main entrance on the P Maison des Paludiers E Musée des Marais Salants
eastern side, where temporary 18 Rue des Prés. Garnier, Saillé. 29 bis, Rue Pasteur, Batz-sur-Mer.
exhibitions are often mounted. Tel (02) 40 62 21 96. Open Apr–Aug: Tel (02) 40 23 82 79. Open Jul–Aug:
The Collégiale St-Aubin, the daily; Feb–Mar & Sep–Oct: daily pm; daily; Sep–Jun: Tue–Sun Closed two
collegiate church in the centre Nov–Dec: Sat pm. Closed Jan. & weeks in Jan. &

















The harbour at Le Croisic, with active fishing and shellfish-farming industries
For hotels and restaurants see p229 and p243


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L OIRE-A TLANTIQUE  207

5 St-Nazaire
Road map E4. * 66,000. £ @
k Nantes-Atlantique. n Boulevard
Légion d’Honneur; (02) 40 22 40 65.
( Tue, Fri & Sun. _ Les Escales
(world-music festival, late July);
Consonances (chamber music, Sep).
∑ saint-nazaire-tourisme.com
The great shipyards of
St-Nazaire began to develop
in the 19th century, when ships
too large to sail up the Loire to
Nantes would dock here. The
port is still a major industrial
and shipbuilding centre today.
The Écomusée, in the
harbour, illustrates the wildlife
and history of the Loire estuary.
It also gives access to L’Espadon,
a French submarine built in
1957, in which the life of
The broad, sandy crescent-shaped beach at La Baule submariners is re-created.
A monument commemorating
3 La Baule Occupying the eastern the abolition of slavery stands
third of a wide bay, near the ecomuseum.
Road map D4. * 16,400. £ @
n 8 Place de la Victoire; (02) 40 24 Pornichet is extended on The STX Chantiers de
34 44. ( Apr–Sep & school holidays: its eastern side by several l’Atlantique, shipyards from
daily am (Jul & Aug all day); Oct–Mar: beaches and smaller bays. which such legendary liners as
Tue–Sun, am. _ Pardon d’Escoublac “Port Niché” (Nestling Normandie (1932) and France
(Aug). La Baule Jazz Festival (Jul-Aug). Harbour) began to grow (1960) were launched, and
∑ labaule.fr into a fashionable where impressive cruise liners
resort in 1860, are still built today, are open
Famous for its excep- when publishers to visitors.
tionally long beach, and other literary Escal-Atlantic, an exhibition
which stretches people came tracing the history of ocean
for some 8 km to enjoy the liners, is laid out in a huge Nazi
(5 miles), La Baule coast here. blockhouse in the submarine
became a hol iday The Plage des base here.
resort when the Detail from an elegant Libraires
rail link with the villa in Pornichet (Booksellers’ E STX Chantiers de l’Atlantique,
interior opened in Beach) recalls Ecomusée, Escal’Atlantic,
1879. Residential districts were those days. L’Espadon submarine
then created, and a multitude This smart resort also Port de St-Nazaire. Tel (02) 28 54 06
of villas and luxury hotels boasts a number of elegant 40. Open Each site has different
sprang up. The seafront villas built between 1880 opening hours, call for more detailed
promenade was opened in and 1930. information. &
1929. Later, how ever, apartment
blocks replaced the seaside
villas, although a few fine
examples survive, particularly
in the resort’s eastern exten sion,
La Baule-les-Pins. About 10 km
(7 miles) inland is the large
Forêt d’Escoublac, which is
traversed by footpaths.

4 Pornichet
Road map D4. * 8,160. £ @ La
Baule. n 3 Boulevard de la
République; (02) 40 61 33 33. ( Wed
& Sat; covered market daily Jun–Sep.
∑ pornichet.fr Pont de St-Nazaire over the Loire estuary, the longest bridge in France




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208  BRIT T AN Y REGION B Y REGION


6 Tour of the Parc Naturel
Régional de la Grande Brière

Consisting of a landscape of reed beds crossed by canals,
the Parc Naturel Régional de la Grande Brière occupies
the centre of the Presqu’île de Guérande. This natural
environment of 49,000 ha (121,000 acres) was made a
protected area in 1970. It has an abundant population of
birds, and also contains about 3,000 traditional stone-built,
thatched houses, the highest concentration in France. One 1 Château de Ranrouet
way of exploring the park is by boat, accompanied by local The origins of this imposing
guide. Alternative ways to enjoy it are on foot, by fortress, now in ruins, go back
bicycle, on horseback or by horse-drawn carriage. to the 13th century.
La Roche-Bernard,
Vannes
2 Les Jardins du Marais
Over a hectare of land in size (2.5 acres),
this private organic garden includes a
vegetable plot, a flower garden, an
experimental garden and a small wood. Herbignac
The grounds are cultivated without the
use of pesticides.


3 St-Lyphard
From the belfry of the church
in the village of St-Lyphard,
there is a stunning view of J
Grande Brière.







Kerbourg Canal du Nord
Canal de
Bréca
4 Kerhinet
This village came to life again
when Grande Brière was
declared a protected area.
It consists of a cluster of 18
thatched houses, including the Guérande
park’s Visitor Centre (Maison du
Parc). About 1 km (0.5 mile)
further west is a well-preserved Le Croizic St-André-
Neolithic galleried grave. des Eaux

La Baule
5 Bréca
This barge port is located at
the western extremity of the Pornichet
Bréca Canal, which opened in
1937–8 and which crosses Grande
Brière from east to west, starting
at Rozé.

For hotels and restaurants see p229 and p243


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L OIRE-A TLANTIQUE  209



VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
0 La Barbière
The Dolmen Practical Information
de la Barbière at Where to Stay: There are hotels,
Crossac testifies to human chambres d’hôtes (guest houses),
habitation of this area 5,000 years country gîtes and camping sites
ago. There are also megaliths at in several of the villages in the
Herbignac and St-Lyphard. park. Details from Maison du Parc
(see below).
What to Eat: Local specialities are
q Chapelle-des-Marais available at Herbignac, St-André-
The church contains a statue of St des-Eaux, St-Lyphard and Asserac.
Cornély, protector of horned animals. n Maison du Parc at Kerhinet;
Until 1966, each September the statue (02) 40 66 85 01.
of carved wood was paraded through ∑ parc-naturel-briere.com
the town in a chariot drawn by 20 pairs
of oxen crowned with roses.
La Roche-Bernard,
Vannes
9 Île de Fédrun
A road running around the edge
links the island’s houses. The
Ste-Reine- Maison de la Mariée (Bride’s
de-Bretagne House), with a collection that
includes these pretty bridal
crowns, is at No. 182.
Pontchâteau


Crossac





St-Joachin 8 Rozé
This port, with a lock on its west side, is one of the
points from which the water level is controlled. It
Canal du Nord
Canal de Canal de Rozé was through Rozé that peat, Grande Brière’s “black
Bréca gold”, was transported. The Reserve Pierre Constant
is an ornithological reserve with look-out posts,
information panels and hides.
St-Malo-
de-Guersac 7 Pont de Paille at Trignac
Canal de Trignac
Savenay, With its locks and pounds (holding
Montoir- Nantes areas for barges), Trignac is the largest
de-Bretagne barge port in Grande Brière. The
bridge spans the Canal de Rozé, one
of the major canals across the reserve.
St-Brevin- 0 kilometres 5
les-Pins 0 miles 3

6 La Chaussée-Neuve
This barge port, which once handled
consignments of peat, now attracts people
who come to the park to for bird-watching. Key
At the beginning of each year, reed-cutters
land their harvest here. The reeds are used to Suggested route
roof the houses in Grande Brière. Other routes

For keys to symbols see back flap


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210  BRIT T AN Y REGION B Y REGION

7 Nantes

Historic capital of the dukes of Brittany, Nantes is today
capital of the Pays de la Loire. Such dual importance enhances
the cultural diversity of this vibrant city. Connected to the
Atlantic via the wide lower reaches of the Loire, Nantes
is a port city, and historically the slave trade ensured its
prosperity. But, in the heart of vegetable-growing country,
Nantes is now focused on a land-based economy. A stately
city but also a modern metropolis, an industrial and cultural
centre with a well-respected university, Nantes is one of the
most dynamic towns in France, with a steadily growing
population and pleasant, well-kept districts. Doorway and balcony in
Rue Kervégan
P Place du Bouffay P Quartier Graslin Opposite stands La Cigale, a
This is the heart of Nantes, Place Royale links the medieval famous brasserie that opened
where the founders of the quarter of Nantes with the in 1895. The decoration of the
future city settled, near Neo-Classical Quartier Graslin. interior, by Émile Libaudière,
the confluence of the Loire Laid out by the architect is in the Art Nouveau style:
and the Erdre. In the Middle Mathurin Crucy in 1790, large areas of dark wood
Ages, a fortress (destroyed the square is lined with carvings are surrounded by
in the 18th century) was tall residential buildings motifs in ceramic, wrought
built to serve as a prison of elegant restrained iron, mosaic and plaster,
and law tribunal, and design. The blue granite featuring stylized cicadas
executions took place fountain, dating from (cigales). This is somewhere
on the square. 1865, is decorated to go as much to feast the
The street names in with personifications eyes as to enjoy good food.
the vicinity echo the of the Loire and
past: Rue de la its tributaries. P Île Feydeau
Bâclerie (Bolt Street), Place Graslin, This district, a former island, was
with 15th-century nearby, is named created when branches of the
timber-framed houses, after Jean Graslin, Loire were filled in in the 1930s
Rue de la Juiverie (Jewry Statue in Passage a Parisian barrister and 1940s, and it is here that the
Street), Rue des Halles Pommeraye who came to seek wealth gene rated by a profitable
(Market Street), Place du his fortune in trade in slaves and sugar is most
Pilori (Stocks Square). The Nantes in 1750. A shrewd evident. The luxurious private
Église Ste-Croix, on Place speculator, he purchased land residences here were built in
Ste-Croix, was begun in the and commissioned Crucy to the 18th century by traders
17th century and completed develop the district. Part of who bought slaves with cheap
200 years later. The clock and this development was the jewellery, sold them and then
bell were transferred from the Neo-Classical theatre, centre- returned from Africa with
destroyed Tour du Bouffay in piece of the square. The vessels loaded with sugar.
1860. This pedestrianized area building, fronted by eight Allée Turenne, Allée Duguay-
is a part of Nantes that has Corinthian columns crowned Trouin, Allée Brancas, Rue
been least affected by the with eight muses, is a focal Kervégan and Place de la Petite-
city’s rapid development. point of cultural life in Nantes. Hollande are lined with houses
decorated with masks, shells,
the faces of bearded spirits and
ears of corn, and faced with
wrought-iron balconies –
all outward signs of wealth.
P Passage Pommeraye
Opened in 1843, this unusual
arcade is named after the man
who built it. Pommeraye, a
lawyer, joined forces with
Guilloux, a restaurateur, to create
the arcade, designed on the
model of those that were built in
The Neo-Classical theatre on Place Graslin Paris at the time. The shops, cafés
For hotels and restaurants see pp229 and pp243


210-211_EW_Brittany.indd 210 11/3/16 1:03 PM

NANTES  211


and restaurants that opened VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
here soon attracted Nantes’
wealthy inhabitants. The film- Practical Information
maker Jacques Demy, who was Road map: F4. * 550,000
born in Nantes, chose the (490,000 in greater Nantes).
arcade as the location for two n 9 rue des Etats; 0892 464 044.
of his films, Lola and Une ( Place du Bouffay, Wed–Sun;
Chambre en Ville. An elegant Talensac, Tue–Sun am. _ La
wooden staircase, decorated Folle Journée (classical music, late
with lamps and statues, gives Jan), carnival (Feb), Festival des
Trois Continents (film, Nov–Dec).
access to the arcade’s three Painting of Louis XII and Anne of Brittany, ∑ nantes-tourisme.com
galleries, on different levels. Musée Thomas Dobrée
Between those on the upper Transport
floor is a Neo-Classical porch and religious art. From 1862 £ @ k Nantes-Atlantique.
decorated with medallions. until his death, Dobrée devoted
himself to creating a suitable
E Musée Thomas Dobrée building in which to house the Engravings by Dürer, Schongauer,
18 Rue Voltaire. Tel (02) 40 71 03 50. 10,000 pieces that his collection Rembrandt, Ruysdael and
Open for temporary exhibitions only; by then comprised. For this he Jacques Callot are among the
the main museum is closed for
renovation until further notice. & commissioned the architect museum’s masterpieces.
Viollet-le-Duc, who built the Two other buildings stand in
At the age of 28, Thomas Neo-Gothic chateau that is now the palace precinct. One is the
Dobrée (1810–95), heir to a the Musée Thomas Dobrée. Musée Archéologique, which is
family business going back 300 Among the finest pieces on devoted to prehistory, ancient
years, turned down a career as display here are a gold reliquary Egyptian and Greek artifacts and
a shipowner to con centrate with a crown con taining the local Gaulish and Gallo-Roman
on collecting art. In time, his heart of Anne of Brittany history. The other is the Manoir
collection came to encompass (1514), enamels, such as the de la Touche, which documents
painting, sculpture and 12th-century Reliquary of the local history during the
drawings, tapestries, furniture True Cross, and the 13th-century Revolution, especially the
and porcelain, arms and armour, Reliquary of St Calminius. Vendée Wars.
Nantes City Centre
1 Place du Bouffay
2 Quartier Graslin
3 Île Feydeau
4 Passage Pommeraye
5 Musée Thomas Dobrée
6 Château des Ducs de Bretagne VANNES RUE GAMBETTA Jardin
RENNES
7 Cathédrale St-Pierre-et-St-Paul DU PONT R U E SULLY Beaux Arts des Plantes
Musée des
PLACE
8 Musée des Beaux-Arts MORAND RUE DU ROI ALBERT PLACE RUE G. CLEMENCEAU RUE STANISLAS BAU
R U E F. CA ILL A U D
9 Usine LU MARECHAL ANGERS
FOCH
0 Musée Jules-Verne Cathédrale
St-Pierre-et-St-Paul
Gare
q Jardin des Plantes Gare Routière COURS DES 50 OTAGES R UE D E S TRA S B O ST-PIERRE RUE DE RICHEBOURG DRY SNCF
PLACE
PLACE COURS JOHN F. KENNEDY
BRETAGNE RUE HENRI IV
PLACE Château
A. BRIAND R U E S T- L É O N AR D RUE DE des Ducs
PLACE COURS J. F. KENNEDY
RUE DE BUDAPEST PLACE DE VERDUN U RG de Bretagne Usine LU
L’ECLUSE
RUE DU MOULIN
RUE DE CALVAIRE St-Nicholas RUE DE LA MARINE RUE DE LA NEPTUNE Square
JUIVERIE
RUE D’
RUE DU CHAPEAU ROYALE ORLÉANS Ste-Croix PLACE DU Mercoeur
Elisa
PLACE
ROUGE
BOUFFAY
COURS FRANKLIN ROOSEVELT
RUE SCRIBE
Théâtre RUE CREBILLON PLACE DU Île Feydeau
Quartier COMMERCE
PASSAGE
Graslin GRASLIN POMMERAYE Gare Routière
PLACE
RUE VOLTAIRE RUE J.J. ROUSSEAU RUE KERVEGAN Aéroport
Musée RUE M. DE Q U A I T UREN NE 8 km (5 miles)
LATTRE
Thomas Dobrée
RUE M. SIBILLE 0 metres 400
QU A I D E L A FOSS E
RUE DE LA VERRERIE
L o i r e 0 yards 400
Musée
Jules-Verne
For keys to symbols see back flap
210-211_EW_Brittany.indd 211 11/3/16 1:03 PM

212  BRIT T AN Y REGION B Y REGION

Around the Chateau and Beyond

The Château des Ducs de Bretagne (see pp214–15), with
Place du Bouffay and the Cathédrale St-Pierre-et-St-Paul,
once formed the hub of Nantes. This nucleus is on the
eastern side of the present city. The Jardin des Plantes,
the Musée d’Arts and the picturesque Lieu Unique are
other landmarks. The Musée Jules-Verne, devoted to this
famous native of Nantes, is on the western side of the
city, well beyond the port.

remains of the 13th-century
ramparts. Impasse St-Laurent,
on the left of the cathedral, Statue of Marguerite de Foix, Cathédrale
leads to La Psalette, a charming St-Pierre-et-St-Paul
15th-century Gothic house.
the Pont-Aven School (see
E Musée d’Arts p175), as well as 11 paintings
10 Rue Georges-Clémenceau. by Kandinsky.
Tel (02) 51 17 45 00. Closed for The first floor is devoted
renovations until 2016. & to major periods in the history
Built by the architect Josso, a of art from the 13th century
native of Nantes, in the late 19th to the first half of the 19th.
century, this is one of the best- The collection of early Italian
designed museums of its period. painting includes a Virgin in
The ground floor, of simple Majesty by the Master of
design and lit by natural light, Bigallo. A typically full-blooded
Neo-Classical columns on the late is devoted to modern and Rubens, Judas Maccabaeus
19th-century façade of the Musée d’Arts contemporary art, from Praying for the Dead (1635),
Impressionism to the present provides a dramatic and
R Cathédrale day, and including abstract art strong contrast to peaceful
St-Pierre-et-St-Paul of the 1950s. Besides paintings Dutch and Flemish landscapes
Place St-Pierre. Open daily. 8 by the Fauves and the Nabis, and still-life paintings.
Standing on the site of a there are two Monets (Water- French painting of the 17th
Roman building, vestiges of lilies and Gondolas in Venice), century is represented by three
which remain in the crypt, Lighthouse at Antibes by works by Georges de la Tour, a
the Flamboyant Gothic Signac, and works by Dufy, master of the depiction of light:
cathedral was begun in 1434. Émile Bernard, Mauffra and The Hurdy-Gurdy Player, St Peter’s
Its construction continued until
the 19th century, when the The Revolution in Nantes
apse was completed.
The cathedral has richly During the civil war fought between royalists and republicans during
decorated doorways and an the French Revolution, one man in particular stood out in the political
impressively lofty nave, 37 m climate that prevailed in Nantes. Jean-Baptiste Carrier, a member of
(120 ft) high. The choir and the Convention (revolutionary assembly), was sent to Brittany on a
ambulatory are lit by mission to pacify the region. After the royalist Chouans were
contemporary stained-glass defeated at Savenay, he inflicted on the citizens of Nantes a cruel
windows. A fine example of the repression. He designed boats with a hull that could be opened
when the vessel reached the middle of the Loire, drowning as many
Renaissance style, the black as 100 people at a
and white marble tomb of time. “Republican
François II and his wife weddings” consisted
Marguerite de Foix was carved of tying a man and a
by Michel Colombe in 1507. woman together and
It is surrounded by allegorical tossing them into
statues; that of Justice is the river. Some 5,000
thought to portray their people lost their lives
daughter, Anne of Brittany. under this regime.
Porte St-Pierre, next to the Executions of
cathedral and once part of the royalists also took
walls that surrounded Nantes, Mass drownings organized by Jean-Baptiste Carrier in place on Place
leads to Cours St-Pierre, a Nantes in June 1793 Viarme, in Nantes.
walkway where there are
For hotels and restaurants see p229 and p243


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NANTES  213


E Usine LU, Lieu Unique grow beneath the oldest
Rue de la Biscuiterie, Quai Ferdinand- magnolias in Europe. In the
Favre. Tel (02) 40 12 14 34. Open Tue– tropical greenhouses flourish a
Sun pm, Jul–Aug: daily pm. 8 great many species of orchid.
The history of Nantes is
inseparable from that of the E Musée Jules-Verne
almost legendary biscuit, the 3 Rue de l’Hermitage. Tel (02) 40 69
Petit-Beurre LU, which people 72 52. Open Jul–Aug: daily; Sep–Jun:
have enjoyed for over a century. Mon, Wed–Sat, Sun pm. & 8 Jul–
In 1846, the Lefèvre-Utile, a Aug.
couple from Lorraine who This small house at the top of a
settled in Nantes, opened their steep street is the birthplace of
first pâtisserie. To challenge the writer Jules Verne. The
competition from British imports, museum that it
they began making biscuits on an now contains
industrial scale and in 1885 built gives a detail-
a factory. The Petit-Beurre was ed account of
launched, followed by the Paille his life and
d’Or. From 1913, the factory work, and of
turned out 20 tonnes of biscuits the peculiar
per day. When it became too world that
small to meet the growing he created
demand, the site was abandoned. in his novels. Jules Verne, born in
Threatened with demolition Books, Nantes in 1828
in 1995, the factory was rescued souvenirs,
and, since 1999, what became quotations, humorous
known as the Lieu Unique drawings, cards, magic lanterns
(Unique Place) has become a and models draw the visitor
cultural centre where festivals, into the imaginary world
shows and exhibitions take created by the writer. There is
place. It is very popular with also furniture from his house
the people of Nantes. in Amiens, where Verne spent
Le Gaulage des Pommes, by Émile Bernard, most of his life.
Musée d’Arts Y Jardin des Plantes
Boulevard Stalingrad & Place Sophie- Environs
Denial and Apparition of the Trébuchet. Open daily. The 11th-century Château de
Angel before St Joseph. Opened in the early 19th Goulaine, 13 km (8 miles)
Highlights of the 19th-century century, the botanical garden – southeast of Nantes, contains a
collections include works by the second-largest in France collection of tropical butterflies,
Ingres, particularly his beautiful after the Jardin des Plantes in and an exhibition documenting
portrait of Madame de Senon- Paris – covers 7 ha (17 acres) the history of the LU biscuit
nes (1814), by Delacroix (Caid, and contains 12,000 species of factory. The reception rooms
Moroccan Chief), and by Corot plants. It was originally a garden are sumptuously decorated.
(Democrites and the Abderitans), of mostly medicinal plants,
as well as paintings by the but sea captains brought back + Château de Goulaine
Barbizon School. In the room exotic specimens that rapidly Haute-Goulaine. Tel (02) 40 54 91 42.
devoted to Courbet, the subject broadened its scope. Today, Open Jul–Aug: daily; rest of year: call
matter and compo sition of The the garden contains over 200 ahead. & 8 for groups, all year
Gleaners demonstrates his skill varieties of camellia, which round by arrangement. 7
as a realist.
E Les Machines de l’Iles
des Nantes
I’Iles de Nantes.
This former scrap of wasteland
on the banks of the Loire is an
ongoing urban redevelopment
project. The Nefs, the ancient
naval workshops, are home to
Les Machines de l’Iles des
Nantes. Visitors can ride the
Grand Elephant, an articulated
wooden elephant, and visit bars
and restaurants. Musée Jules-Verne in Nantes, the birthplace of writer Jules Verne




212-213_EW_Brittany.indd 213 11/3/16 1:06 PM

214  BRIT T AN Y REGION B Y REGION

Château des Ducs de Bretagne

On the banks of the Loire, the Château des Ducs de Bretagne was
founded in the 13th century, and served both as a residen tial
palace and military fortress. Anne of Brittany was born here in
1477, and it is here that Henri IV is supposed to have signed
the Edict of Nantes in 1598. Over the centuries, the castle was
continually remodelled. The sturdy towers and drawbridge are
counterbalanced by delicate Renaissance buildings facing on to
the courtyard. Converted into barracks in the 18th century, the . Grand Logis
castle passed into state ownership after World War I. A restor ation The façade bears the
pro gramme to return the buildings to their original appearance coat of arms of Louis
XII and Anne
was carried out between 1993 and 2006. The castle now contains of Brittany.
a major museum of the history of Nantes, with more than
850 historical objects arranged across 32 rooms.

Entrance to
museum














Petit Gouvernement
Built in the 16th century,
during the reign of François I,
the king’s apartments are
now known as the Petit
Gouvernement (Governor’s
Small Palace). The dormer
windows are typical of
the Renaissance.

KEY
1 Courtine de la Loire, the wall
linking Tour de la Rivière and Tour
du Port, was built in the 15th and
16th centuries.
2 Tour du Port was hidden by a
bastion for 200 years. The bastion
was demolished in 1853.
3 The castle museum is devoted
to regional folk art of the 16th
to 20th centuries.
4 Bastion St-Pierre, built in Tour de la Rivière
the 16th century, was levelled Forming part of the
off in 1904. castle’s sys tem of
5 The Harness Room was defences, the Tour de
built by the army in the 17th la Rivière consists of
and 18th cen turies. two floors with a
terrace above.
For hotels and restaurants see p229 and p243


214-215_EW_Brittany.indd 214 11/3/16 1:03 PM

NANTES  215


Grand Gouvernement VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
The ducal palace, known
since the 17th century as Practical Information
the Grand Gouvernement 4 Place Marc-Elder. Tel 08 11 46
(Governor’s Great Palace), 46 44. Ramparts and courtyard:
has been restored to its Open daily. Musée d’Histoire:
original splendour. The Open Sep–Jun: Tue–Sun;
double staircase leads up Jul–Aug: daily. 7 0 &
to a single row of steps (museum only; moat ditches,
beneath a porch.
courtyard and sentry walk free).
∑ chateaunantes.fr
. Vieux Donjon
The polygonal keep,
built in the 14th
century on the orders
of Jean IV de Montfort,
is the oldest part of the
castle. It is attached to
the 18th-century
caretaker’s lodge.
















. Tour du Fer-à-Cheval
This shield decorates the
keystone of the vaulting
inside the Tour du Fer-à-
Cheval (Horseshoe Tower).
Guarding the northwest
corner of the castle, it is a
fine example of 15th-century
military architecture.

Illustrious Guests
Many famous people have passed through
the gates of the Château des Ducs de Bretagne.
The wedding of François II of Brittany and
Marguerite de Foix took place here in 1471,
and it was also here that their daughter, Anne,
Duchess of Brittany, was married to Louis XII in
1499. In 1532, François I of France came here to
mark the “permanent union of the duchy and
Henri IV country of Brittany with the kingdom of France”,
(1553–1610) as an inscrip tion in the courtyard recalls. Henri II,
then Charles IX, also stayed in the castle. In
1598, Henri IV thrashed out the terms of the Edict de Nantes, which
legalized Protestantism. He may even have signed the edict at the
castle. Louis XIV also stayed here when he came to Nantes in 1661,
during a gathering of the States of Brittany.





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216  BRIT T AN Y REGION B Y REGION

0 Clisson
Road map F5. 20 km (12 miles) south
of Nantes via the D59. * 5,900.
£ Place du Minage; (02) 40 54 02 95.
( Tue. _ Les Italiennes de Clisson
(theatre, music & film, Jul); Les
Médiévales (Jul, every two years from
2017). ∑ levignobledenantes
tourisme.com
A romantic dream led to the
development of Clisson. In
the 19th century, the Cacault
brothers, natives of Nantes who
The thalassotherapy centre on Plage de l’Alliance, in Pornic loved Italy, built themselves a
Tuscan-style villa here. This set
8 Pornic name to two 11th-century a trend, and ochre-walled, red-
monasteries. Vestiges of these can roofed houses, in contrast to
Road map E5. * 14,000. £ @ g
n Place de la Gare; (02) 40 82 04 40. be seen in the Église St-Pierre, those roofed in the customary
( Thu & Sun. _ Fête de St-Gilles built in the 16th century in the slate, began to spring up.
(traditional music and dance festival, Gothic style. Close to this Although it is in ruins, the
Aug). ∑ ot-pornic.fr church is an 11th-century lan- Château de Clisson here, built in
tern whose flame was intended stages between the 13th and the
This small fishing port is also to cast light into the darkness 16th centuries, well illustrates the
a coastal resort with yachting for the benefit of the dead. evolution of military architecture.
harbours and a thalassotherapy The Lac de Grand-Lieu, to La Garenne Lemot, an estate
centre. The lower town, with the east, is an unusually rich near the town’s eastern exit, has
brightly painted fishermen’s bird sanctuary. The Maison du two further examples of the
houses, is dominated by the Lac here documents the local Italianate style: the estate office,
outline of the castle, which was wildlife, including 225 species of by the architect Crucy (1815), and
owned by Gilles de Rais (see p47) birds. Built in the 9th century, the Villa Lemot, designed by the
in the 15th century. It was the Carolingian abbey church sculptor Lemot (1824). The
remo delled by Viollet-le-Duc of Abbaye de St-Philbert, at St surrounding parkland is decorated
in the 19th century. The coast Philbert-de-Grand-Lieu, is one with antique columns, obelisks,
road beyond Pornic is lined with of the oldest churches in France. follies and other ornaments.
19th-century villas where the In the crypt lies the tomb of St Muscadet and Gros Plant vines
writers Michelet and Flaubert and Philbert, the abbey’s founder. are grown in the vine yards
the painter Renoir once stayed. between Clisson and the Loire.
St-Michel-Chef-Chef, E Musée du Pays de Retz
9 km (5 miles) further north, Rue des Moines, Bourgneuf-en-Retz. + Château de Clisson
is re nowned for its biscuits Tel (02) 40 21 40 83. Open Mar–Jun: Place du Minage. Tel (02) 40 54 02 22.
made with salted butter, and Tue–Sun pm; Jul–Aug: 10:30am–1pm Open Oct–Apr: Wed–Sun pm; May–
for its wide beach. & 3–7pm daily. Closed Oct–Feb. & 7 Sep: Wed–Mon. & 8
O Maison du Lac Y La Garenne Lemot
Rue du Lac, Bouaye. Tel (02) 28 25 19 Gétigné. Tel (02) 40 54 75 85. Park:
9 Pays de Retz 07. Open Jan–Mar: Wed, Sat–Sun pm; Open daily. Estate office: Open May–
Apr–Jun & Sep–Oct: Wed pm, Sat–Sun;
Road map E5. Machecoul. Between Jul–Aug: Tue–Sun; Nov–Dec: phone Sep: daily; Oct–Apr: Tue–Sun pm.
the D751 and the D13. £ @ Nantes. ahead to check. Villa Lemot: Open temporary
n 3 Chausée du Pays de Retz, La exhibitions May–Sep.
Bernerie en Retz; (02) 40 82 70 99. R Abbaye de St-Philbert
∑ paysderetzatlantique.fr n St-Philbert de Grand-Lieu;
(02) 40 78 73 88. Open daily.
Machecoul, once the capital
of the Pays de Retz, was the
fiefdom of Gilles de Rais, the local
Bluebeard (see p47). The ruins of
one of his castles still stand here.
The Musée du Pays de Retz
at Bourgneuf-en-Retz, 12 km
(9 miles) further west on the D13,
describes the local salt-panning
and fishing industries, as well as
traditional crafts. Les Moutiers-
en-Retz, on the coast, owes its Château de Clisson at Place du Minage
For hotels and restaurants see pp229 and p243


216-217_EW_Brittany.indd 216 11/3/16 1:03 PM

L OIRE-A TLANTIQUE  217

q Pays d’Ancenis
Road map F4. Ancenis. 30 km
(19 miles) east of Nantes via the A11
or the N23. * 7,000. £ k Nantes-
Atlantique. n 27 Rue du Château;
(02) 40 83 07 44. _ Couleurs Parasol
(Jul–Aug). ( Thu & Sat. ∑ pays-
ancenis-tourisme.com
This area of countryside, whose
focal point is the town of Ancenis,
flanks a stretch of the Loire that
in places runs between high cliffs. The Nantes–Brest Canal at Blain, just south of the Forêt du Gâvre
Ancenis, set in the midst of
vineyards, has some elegant w Châteaubriant elegant Renaissance chateau
wine merchants’ houses and the Road map F3. * 13,380. £ @ n with a main building flanked
16th-century Château d’Ancenis. 29 Place Charles de Gaulle (02) 40 28 by wings. The Romanesque
Further downstream is the 20 90. ( Wed am. _ Foire de Béré Église St-Jean-de-Béré, built in
Donjon d’Oudon, a 14th-century (Sep). ∑ tourisme-chateaubriant.fr contrasting blue schist and red
keep. Overlooking Ancenis, granite, contains a 17th-century
the keep is also ideally situated to The few surviving schist-built Baroque altarpiece.
survey the Loire, once the main medieval houses here give the
traffic artery in western France. walled town of Châteaubriant + Châteaux
Further upstream is Varades. The a historic atmosphere. Two Access via Place Charles-de-Gaulle.
elegant 19th-century Italian-style chateaux stand in close Tel (02) 40 28 20 20. Open May–Sep:
château, Palais Briau, here was proximity on a hill overlooking Wed–Mon; Oct–Apr: Sat–Sun pm.
built by an engineer who had the Chère river: a medieval 8 interiors. & (free entry to park).
made his fortune during the fortress, with a keep, and an
reign of Napoleon III.
e Forêt du Gâvre
+ Château d’Ancenis
Rue du Pont. Tel (02) 40 83 07 44. Open Road map E4. Blain.35 km (22 miles)
north of Nantes via the N137 then the
for temporary exhibitions only. &
D164. * 7,450. n 2 Place Jean-
+ Château de Varades Guilhard, Blain; (02) 40 87 15 11.
Palais Briau. Tel (02) 40 83 45 00. Park: ( Tue & Sat am. _ St-Laurent (Aug).
Open Apr–Sep: Wed–Mon pm. Palais: Covering a large massif enclosed
Open Apr–Sep: Sat, Sun & public
holidays pm; Aug: Wed–Mon pm. by the Don, Isac and Brivet rivers,
8 obligatory. & the forest is good walking
country. A 15th century stone
+ Donjon d’Oudon building, the Maison de la Forêt,
Rue du Pont-Levis. Tel (02) 40 83 60 provides information about the
00. Open Apr–Jul & Sep–mid-Oct: South gallery of the Renaissance chateau history and geography of the
Mon–Fri pm & Sat–Sun; Aug: daily. & in Châteaubriant forest, and explains what the life
of its inhabitants was like in the
past. It organizes guided walks
Vendée Wars on themes such as birds and
In 1793, the persecution of the clergy, the execution of Louis XVI and fungi. The building also houses
a rise in taxation provoked an anti-republican uprising in the Vendée. the Benoist Museum, with a
Royalists soon followed up with acts of barbarism, and the execution display of lace head-dresses.
of republicans in Machecoul began on 11 March. Catelineau, a carter, The Musée de Blain, in Blain,
and Stofflet, a gamekeeper, on the D164, is devoted to
joined by various aristocrats, popular art and tradition from
stirred up revolt among the prehistoric and Gallo-Roman
peasantry. In June, the Armée times to the early 20th century.
Catholique et Royale Vendée
seized control of the Vendée, as P Maison de la Forêt
well as the towns of Saumur and 2 route de Conquereuil, Le Gâvre Tel
Angers, but it was defeated by (02) 40 51 25 14. Open Apr–Nov:
the republicans at Cholet on 2:30–6pm Tue–Sun.
17 October. On the orders of
General Turreau, the latter led
Republican prisoners being given their punitive expeditions in the E Musée de Blain
2 Place Jean-Guilhard, Blain. Tel (02)
freedom Vendée in 1794–5.
40 79 98 51. Open Tue–Fri, Sat pm. &


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BT_218-219.indd 218 17/12/14 4:51 pm

Travellers’


needs





Where to Stay 220–229

Where to Eat and Drink 230–243
Shops and Markets 244–247
Entertainment 248–249
Outdoor Activities 250–253















































BT_218-219.indd 219 17/12/14 4:51 pm

220  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

WHERE TO STAY

For many decades, Brittany has been the choice is wide. Accommodation along
among the most popular tourist destinations Brittany’s coasts is, of course, more varied
in France. As a result, the region is well and plentiful, even though there is much
equipped to cater for the needs of visitors. to interest visitors in areas further inland.
From grand chateaux to basic camping sites, While the resorts are oriented towards
and including a number of familiar hotel beaches, watersports and sailing, a warm
chains, there is accommodation to suit every welcome at a countryside guesthouse
taste and budget. Even at individual locations brings visitors closer to the soul of Brittany.
Reservations
five stars. An even higher, but
In the summer season, unofficial, category is “palace”,
Brittany, like any other holiday for those hotels providing
destina tion that attracts large extremely luxurious facilities.
numbers of visitors, becomes There is also a European
very crowded. This is particularly Ecolabel denoted by a small
true during school holidays and flower logo which signifies
over long holiday weekends, good practice with regard to
and also when local festivals respecting the environment.
and other events take place. The label “Tourisme et handicap”
It is, therefore, essential is awarded to those hotels
to book accommodation well offering service and facilities
in advance. Nearly all hotels, adapted to disabled customers.
chambres d’hôtes (bed and
breakfast) and gîtes have web­ Prices
sites that allow visitors to
reserve online, although some In Brittany, as in the rest of La Ferme Saint-Vennec in Combrit
still prefer phone reservations. France, advertised prices include (see p227)
Whether you would like to stay tax and service. Charges are per
in a characterful hotel or B&B, or room rather than per person, open often offer advantageous
if you have in mind a particular except when board or half­board rates during the low season.
area of Brittany or simply need a is offered. In rural areas, half­ Check websites for information
suggestion for a weekend break, board may occasionally be on off­season rates and deals.
the regional tourism office compulsory, or even the sole
Tourisme Bretagne can provide option when the hotel is the Chain Hotels
all the information. only place in the area where
visitors can have a meal. Hotel chains are well represented
Most establishments add a in Brittany, including Louvre
Hotel Categories
small charge for a third person Hotels, which includes the
The French Ministry of Tourism or a child sharing a double Campanile, Kyriad and Première
grades hotels into five cate­ room. Some close during the Classe subchains and Accor
gories, with a rating of one to winter, and those that stay Hotels, with the Ibis, Novotel,
Sofitel and Mercure subchains.
Strict quality controls ensure
that these establishments offer
a high standard of comfort and
cleanliness as well as an excellent
range of amenities. For travellers
on a tighter budget, Formule 1,
B+B Hotels and Balladins are
some of the hotel chains
designed to provide basic
facilities at a low price.

Traditional Family-
run Hotels
Establishments affiliated to
Logis de France, the leading
independent association of
Castel Beau Site in Perros-Guirec (see p225) hotels in Europe, will suit
Cafés under half-timbered houses lining the street at Place de Ste-Anne, Rennes



220-221_EW_Brittany.indd 220 11/3/16 1:03 PM

WHERE T O ST A Y  221


visitors who prefer smaller
hotels with local character.
Hotels in this chain offer a more
personal welcome and an
authentic flavour of their
particular locality. The hotels
themselves are usually charac­
terful buildings that are very
much in keeping with their
surroundings.
Relais du Silence is an
affiliation of distinguished hotels
with a friendly atmo sphere and
where peace and relaxation are a
prime consider ation. They have
a two­ to five­star rating.
Luxury Hotels
Those who like a little luxury
and a memorable gastronomic
experience will not be disap­
pointed by the finest hotels
in Brittany. A large number of
chateaux and listed buildings
have been converted into
upmarket accommodation,
some of which employ the
services of prestigious chefs.
Such hotels are ideal for
visitors seeking the very best in
French hospitality and cuisine.
These luxury establishments The Grand Hôtel des Thermes in St-Malo (see p225)
often belong to either of the Chambres d’Hôtes
two main associations. One (see p224) and the Auberge
is Relais et Châteaux, with Bretonne in La Roche­Bernard Private houses or chateaux
13 hotel­restaurants in Brittany, (see p228). with rooms to let are a popular
including the Château de option. Staying in a B&B
Locguénolé in Hennebont provides the opportunity
(see p228). The other is Thalassotherapy to meet local people and to
Châteaux et Hôtels de France, This therapeutic treatment experience Breton culture at
with 18 establishments in uses the curative powers of a more authentic level than in a
Brittany, including the Hôtel sea water, which is rich in hotel. They vary from the basic
Reine Hortense in Dinard iodine and trace elements, to extremely luxurious. Many
and whose curative effects also offer cottages and
and revitalizing properties apartments for families.
are widely known. Between Some B&Bs offer table d’hôte
St­Malo in the north and La (meals) for guests. These
Baule in the south, Brittany has offer an opportunity to enjoy
13 thalassotherapy centres. local specialities in informal
Among the best known are surroundings, often for less
the Thermes Marins in St­Malo, than the price of a meal at
where there are six sea­water a restaurant.
swimming pools. Local tourist offices can
Thalassotherapy centres provide lists of private houses
offer several options that offering B&B accommodation
also include accommodation. in their areas; airbnb also has
There are, for instance, anti­ good Brittany listings. The Gîtes
stress treatments, cures to de France publish the Chambres
combat the effects of smoking, d’Hôtes en Bretagne, a full
and post­natal courses. listing giving all details to their
Full details on thalassotherapy members; the details can
The Hôtel Reine Hortense in Dinard in Brittany are available from also be found on their website,
(see p224) Tourisme Bretagne. www.gites­de­france.com.




220-221_EW_Brittany.indd 221 11/3/16 1:03 PM

222  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

Self-Catering campsites. In all cases, it is
Accommodation
advisable to book in advance,
Self­catering accommodation especially in July and August.
is often also available in Campsites are officially
seaside apartments or cottages. classified with a one­ to a four­
Rental is by the week, usually star rating according to toilet,
starting on Saturdays. Weekend washing and other faci lities
bookings may also be possible, such as swimming pools and
except in the high season. television. Three­ and four­star
Check local tourist office web­ sites are usually very spa cious
The Hôtel Ker Moor in St-Quay-Portrieux sites for lists of self­catering with plenty of amenities and
(see p226) accommodation; the room­ electricity hookups. One­ and
letting website airbnb also lists two­star sites, often in more
Country Gîtes
apartments and houses. The remote areas, always have toilets
Gîtes ruraux (country gîtes) are Federation Nationale des and running water. It is some­
fully furnished houses or apart­ Locations de France Clévances times possible to hire tents and
ments built in the local rural lists over 2,000 holiday rentals in camper vans, or rent bungalows.
style. All are privately owned, Brittany; other good sources are “Glamping” – camping with
and a good many are affiliated Owners Direct and Homeaway. glamour – has become popular
to the national Gîtes de France in France. These luxury campsites
association. Each département offer unusual outdoor accomm­
in Brittany has its own office and Youth Hostels od ation, such as rustic­chic
website listing gîtes and B&Bs Some of the least expensive cabins, classy tipis, Mongolian
with booking information. accommodation may be found yurts, retro 1950s trailers, and
Gîtes de France also issues in auberges de jeunesse (youth vintage VW camper vans. Check
lists of specific types of accom­ hostels). They are available to out Glamping Hub and Cool
modation: gîtes de caractère everyone, regardless of age, as Camping for suggestions.
(picturesque houses), gîtes de long as they have a Youth Hostel Camping rough, or camping
charme (usually more luxurious Association or a Hostelling nature, at one of the unofficial
houses), ecogîtes (environment­ International card. If you are campsites along the coast also
friendly), gîtes de pêche (for fish­ not a member of the YHA in has its attractions. Such sites
ing), gîtes d’étape (dormitory your home country, you will often have stunning locations
accommodation for groups), have to pay a surcharge each and charge very little.
gîtes Panda (in the Parc Naturel time you stay in a French youth
Régional d’Armorique; (see hostel. A full list of youth hostels
pp146–7), gîtes au jardin (houses is available on YHA’s website. Disabled Travellers
with access to private gardens), Various organizations provide
gîtes bébé (safe for young Campsites information on holidays and
children) and gîtes de grande establishments with facilities for
capacité (sleeping 9 or more). Many campsites in Brittany disabled people. The Association
Gîtes de France also issues a are set in fine locations. The des Paralysés de France (APF)
free guide, Bienvenue à la Ferme Fédération Française de and Handitourisme Bretagne
en Bretagne. It lists places to stay Camping et de Caravaning provide all information on their
on working farms, either in gîtes publishes an official guide of special holiday website. Gîtes de
ruraux, B&B rooms or campsites. approved campsites. The Gîtes France publishes a list of gîtes
Prices are often very reasonable. de France website also lists tourisme et Handicap for people

















Camper vans at a site on Pointe de l’Arcouest, on the Côtes d’Armor (see p105)




222-223_EW_Brittany.indd 222 11/3/16 1:03 PM

WHERE T O ST A Y  223


with disabilities. These gîtes
come with wheelchair access
and special equipment adapted
for those with hearing, visual
and mental disabilities.
Other useful sources of
information are Tourism for All
(UK) and Mobility International
(US) who list specialized tour
operators for disabled visitors.
Due to the age of many
Breton hotels, few are able to A pretty youth hostel close to the old town district of Quimper
offer unrestricted wheelchair
access to the entire hotel. Larger location, historical character those especially built as hotels
hotels have lifts, and hotel staff and, in some cases, for good – this encompasses both chain
will go out of their way to aid value. They are listed by depart- and independent hotels. Family
disabled guests. Most resort ment and town, and categorized hotels are particularly welcoming
hotels, and many B&Bs have by a theme that best denotes to people travelling with children.
at least one accessible room. their character. Besides Luxury Look out for establishments
hotels and B&Bs, there are designated as “DK Choice” in
Historic hotels located in recognition of one or more
Recommended Hotels
châteaux, manor houses, long outstanding features – excellent
The hotels and B&Bs featured houses, turn-of-the-century facilities, a stunning location and
in this guide have been chosen seaside villas or even thatched superb views, evocative history,
for the quality of accommodation, cottages. Classic hotels are boutique design or charm.
DIRECTORY
Reservations Formule 1 Chambres Youth Hostel
Tel 0892 685 685. d’Hôtes Association (YHA)
French Government Trevelyan House, Dimple
Tourist Offices ∑ hotelf1.com Gîtes de France Rd, Matlock, DE4 3YH.
UK: Lincoln House, Ibis, Novotel, 56 Rue St-Lazare, Tel 0800 0191 700.
300 High Holborn, Sofitel, Mercure 75439 Paris. ∑ yha.org.uk
London WC1V 7JH. Tel 0871 663 0624 (UK). Tel 0826 10 44 44.
Tel 020 7061 6631 ∑ gites-de-france.com Campsites
(within UK only). ∑ accorhotels-group.
US (east coast): com Self-Catering Cool Camping
825 Third Ave, Louvre Hotels Accommodation ∑ coolcamping.co.uk
New York NY 10022. ∑ louvrehotels.com airbnb Fédération Française
Tel 212 838 7800. ∑ airbnb.com de Camping et de
North America Traditional Caravaning
(Canada): 1800 Avenue Federation Nationale 78 Rue de Rivoli, 75004
McGill College Bereau Family-run des Locations de Paris. Tel 01 42 72 84 08.
1010, Montreal, Quebec. Hotels France Clévacances ∑ ffcc.fr
Tel 00 1 514 288 20 26. 54 Blvd de l’Embouchure
∑ in.france.fr Logis de France CS 22361 31022 Toulouse Glamping Hub
Tel (01) 45 84 70 00. Cedex 2. ∑ glampinghub.com
Tourisme Bretagne ∑ logishotels.com Tel 05 32 10 82 30.
8 Rue de l’Arrivée, ∑ clevacances.com Disabled
75015 Paris. Tel (01) 53 63 Relais du Silence Travellers
11 50. Tel 0826 10 39 09. Homeaway
∑ brittanytourism.com ∑ relaisdusilence.com ∑ homeaway.co.uk Association des
Owners Direct Paralysés de France
Chain Hotels Luxury Hotels ∑ ownersdirect.co.uk ∑ vacances-accessibles.
Accor Hotels Youth Hostels apf.asso.fr
Tel 08 25 88 00 00. Châteaux et Handitourisme
∑ accorhotels.com Hôtels de France Hostelling Bretagne
Tel 08 92 23 00 75. International- ∑ handi.tourisme
B+B Hotels ∑ chateaux American Youth bretagne.com
Tel 08 92 78 29 29. Hostels (HI-AYH)
∑ hotel-bb.com hotels.com Mobility International
8401 Colesville Rd, Suite
Balladins Relais et Châteaux 600, Silver Spring MD ∑ miusa.org
Tel 08 25 08 84 53. Tel (01) 76 49 39 39. 2091D. Tel 240 650 2100. Tourism for All
∑ balladins.com ∑ relaischateaux.com ∑ hiusa.org ∑ tourismforall.org.uk




222-223_EW_Brittany.indd 223 11/3/16 1:03 PM

224  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

Where to Stay


Ille-et-Vilaine DK Choice Price Guide
Prices are based on one night’s stay in
DINARD: Hôtel Reine high season for a standard double room,
Hortense €€€ inclusive of service charges and taxes.
up to €80
€
DK Choice Historic Map E1 €€ €80 to €160
19 Rue Malouine, 35800
BAZOUGES-LA-PÉROUSE: Tel (02) 99 46 54 31 €€€ over €160
Château de la Ballue €€€ ∑ villa-reine-hortense.com
B&B Map F2 Charming, intimate 19th-century LE TRONCHET: Hôtel de
Bazouges-la-Pérouse, 35560 villa built by a mysterious l’Abbaye €€
Tel (02) 99 97 47 86 Russian prince, and named Historic Map E2
∑ la-ballue.com after Queen Hortense, the L’Abbatiale, 35540
This 17th-century chateau is daughter of Napoleon’s wife Tel (02) 99 16 94 41
among the most elegant places Josephine. The public rooms ∑ www.hotel-de-labbaye.fr
to stay near Mont-St-Michel. It is retain the Louix XV character Peaceful, spacious rooms in this
surrounded by remarkable land- and lovely trompe l’oeil ceiling converted 12th-century abbey, in
scaped gardens planted in the frescoes. Run by delightful lovely grounds with a decked pool.
1970s, with a labyrinth of 1500 owners, it is located right on
yews inspired by a La Corbusier the beach, and has stunning MONT-ST-MICHEL:
design. Period furnishings adorn views of St-Malo. Croix Blanche €€€
the luxurious bedrooms and Classic Map F1
salons. Exceptional breakfasts. 16 Grand Rue, 50116
DOL-DE-BRETAGNE: Domaine Tel (02) 33 60 14 04
des Ormes € ∑ hotel-la-croix-blanche.com
CANCALE: Le Grand Large €€ Family Map E2 Quaint hotel sheltered by
Classic Map E1 Epiniac, 35120 ramparts. Cosy rooms on the top
4 Quai Jacques Cartier, 35260 Tel (02) 99 73 53 00 floor offer spectacular views.
Tel (02) 99 89 82 90 ∑ lesormes.com
∑ hotel-restaurant. This campsite offers the option MONT-ST-MICHEL:
hotellegrandlarge.com of staying in a treehouse. Golf Terrasses Poulard €€€
Traditionally furnished rooms course and water park on site. Classic Map F1
sleeping up to six, some with Grand Rue, 50116
views of Baie du Mont-St-Michel. HÉDÉ: Hostellerie du Tel (02) 33 89 02 02
Vieux Moulin € ∑ terrasses-poulard.fr
COMBOURG: Hôtel du Château € Family Map E2 Old-world charm fills this popular
Classic Map E2 La Vallée du Moulin 35360 hotel. All rooms are comfortable;
1 Pl Chateaubriand, 35270 Tel (02) 99 45 45 70 some afford scenic views.
Tel (02) 99 73 00 38 ∑ levieuxmoulin-hede.com
∑ hotelduchateau.com A 17th-century miller’s residence, PAIMPONT: Le Relais de
Granite hotel set in a park offers with bright, simple rooms and a Brocéliande €€
pretty rooms in cream and pastel garden with ruins of a watermill. Classic Map E3
hues. Excellent restaurant. Rue des Forges, 35380
IFFENDIC: Château du Pin €€ Tel (02) 99 07 84 94
DINARD: Hôtel Printania €€ B&B Map E2 ∑ relais-de-broceliande.fr
Family Map E1 D125, near Montfort, 35750 Situated in Paimpont forest,
5 Ave Georges V, 35801 Tel (02) 99 09 34 05 this hotel has smart rooms and
Tel (02) 99 46 13 07 ∑ chateau-pin.fr an excellent spa, with special
∑ printaniahotel.com Pretty, colourful rooms in an algae and fruit treatments.
The Breton-style rooms here come 18th-century mansion surrounded
with box beds, Quimper faience by parkland, in the heart of PLOUËR-SUR-RANCE: Hôtel
and carved wooden furniture. the Brocéliande. Manoir de Rigourdaine €€
Historic Map E2
Route de Langrolay, 22490
Tel (02) 96 86 89 96
∑ hotel-rigourdaine.fr
Spacious rooms in a stone-built
manor, with a terrace for
breakfast or aperitifs.
REDON: Hôtel Chandouineau €€
Classic Map E3
1 Rue Thiers, 35600
Tel (02) 99 71 02 04
∑ hotel-restaurant-
chandouineau.com
Choose from stylish attic rooms
in soft hues in an ancient
townhouse, located above a
well-known restaurant of the
The elegant Château de la Ballue in Bazouges-la-Pérouse same name. Central location.
224-229_EW_Brittany.indd 224 11/3/16 12:51 PM

WHERE T O ST A Y  225

ST-MÉLOIR-DES-ONDES: PAIMPOL: K’Loys €€
Tirel Guérin €€ Historic Map D1
Classic Map E1 21 Quai Morand, 22500
1 Le Limonay, 35350 Tel (02) 96 20 40 01
Tel (02) 99 89 10 46 ∑ hotel-kloys.com
∑ tirel-guerin.com A former sea merchant’s house
A haven of peace near St-Malo, by the marina, with chintzy English
with landscaped gardens, spacious style and a warm ambience.
rooms and a superb restaurant.
PERROS-GUIREC: Le Manoir
du Sphinx €€
Historic Map C1
Côtes d’Armor 67 Chemin de la Messe, 22700
Tel (02) 96 23 25 42
BRÉLIDY: Château de Brélidy €€ ∑ lemanoirdusphinx.com
Historic Map C1 Spectacular cliff-edge location.
22140 Nearly all the rooms overlook
Tel (02) 96 95 69 38 the sea and seven islands.
∑ chateau-brelidy.com
Imposing 16th-century manor PERROS-GUIREC: Castel Beau
house in a park with elegant Site €€€
rooms and a spa. Bicycles are Luxury Map C1
Contemporary decor at Castel Beau Site in available for hire. Plage de Saint-Guirec, Ploumanach,
Ploumanach, Côtes d’Armor 22700
CAP FRÉHEL: Le Relais de Fréhel € Tel (02) 96 91 40 87
RENNES: Hôtel des Lices € B&B Map E1 ∑ castelbeausite.com
Family Map E3 Rue du Cap, Plévenon, 22240 Luminous boutique rooms, all
7 Pl des Lices, 35000 Tel (02) 96 41 43 02 equipped with the latest ameni-
Tel (02) 99 79 14 81 ∑ relaiscapfrehel.fr ties. Many have sunset sea views.
∑ hotel-des-lices.com Renovated Breton longhouse,
Contemporary rooms with surrounded by woodland and PLANCOËT: Manoir de la
good soundproofing and chic a garden with tennis courts. Hazaie €€€
furnishings. Nearly all rooms Historic Map E2
come with balconies. DINAN: Hôtel Arvor €€ Planguenoual 22400
Family Map E2 Tel (02) 96 32 73 71
RENNES: Le Coq-Gadby €€ 5 Rue Augustus-Pavie, 22120 ∑ manoir-hazaie.com
Classic Map E3 Tel (02) 96 39 21 22 Beautifully restored 16th-century
156 Rue d’Antrain, 35700 ∑ hotelarvordinan.com manor house. Period rooms
Tel (02) 99 38 05 55 An 18th-century building with equipped with spa tubs.
∑ lecoq-gadby.com a cosy lounge and comfortable
Evocative period rooms in a 17th- modern rooms that sleep PLELO: La Maison des Lamour €€
century building and others in a up to six. B&B Map D2
new one. Good spa next door. La Ville Guerfault, 22170
GUINGAMP: La Demeure Tel (02) 96 79 51 25
€€
DK Choice de Ville Blanche Map C2 ∑ lamaisondeslamour.com
Exceptionally attractive, beamed
Historic
ST-MALO: Le Beaufort €€ 5 Rue du Général-de-Gaulle, 22200 rooms located inside an old mill,
Classic Map E1 Tel (02) 96 44 28 53 set in a charming flower garden
25 Chaussée du Sillon, 35400 ∑ demeure-vb.com and woodland. There are also
Tel (02) 99 40 99 99 Outstanding 17th-century four delightful self-catering
∑ hotel-beaufort.com guesthouse with elegant cottages available.
Retaining the warmth and period furnishings in the rooms,
charm of a mid-19th-century and an attractive little garden. PLÉVEN: Manoir du
residence that makes it espe- Vaumadeuc €€
cially welcoming for families, DK Choice Historic Map E2
Beaufort was one of the town’s Le Vaumadeuc, 22130
first hotels. It occupies a prime HILLION: Château de Tel (02) 96 84 46 17
location with direct access Bonabry €€ ∑ vaumadeuc.com
to the beach and the walled B&B Map D2 Peaceful 15th-century manor
town is a half-hour walk along Hillion, 22120 house with comfortably
the promenade. Tel (02) 96 32 21 06 furnished rooms under old
∑ bonabry.fr oak beams. Beautiful French
Set amid flower gardens and garden and lake.
ST-MALO: Le Grand Hôtel woodlands, this 15th- and 16th-
des Thermes €€€ century chateau features rooms PLOUBAZLANEC: Les
Luxury Map E1 full of old-fashioned charm. The Agapanthes €€
100 Boulevard Hébert, 35400 B&B is run by the delightful Family Map D1
Tel (02) 99 40 75 00 Vicomte and Vicomtesse Louis 1 Rue Adrien Rebours, 22620
∑ le-grand-hotel-des-thermes.com du Fou de Kerdaniel. Breakfast Tel (02) 96 55 89 06
Classic 19th-century seaside features fruits from the home ∑ hotel-les-agapanthes.com
palace hotel, with direct access orchard. There’s a path that An 18th-century hotel with a
to the thalassotherapy centre. leads down to the beach. modern interior. Some rooms
Excellent children’s facilities. afford views of Paimpol Bay.
For more information on types of hotels see page 223
224-229_EW_Brittany.indd 225 11/3/16 12:51 PM

226  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

QUEMPER GUÉZENNEC: Le TRÉGUIER: Aigue Marine €€ LANILDUT: Le Nid d’Iroise €€
Manoir de Kermodest €€ Family Map C1 B&B Map A1
Historic Map D1 5 Rue M-Berthelot, 22220 4 Hent Kergaradoc, 29840
22260 Tel (02) 96 92 97 00 Tel (02) 98 04 38 41
Tel (02) 96 95 38 46 ∑ aiguemarine-hotel.com ∑ hebergement-nature-
∑ kermodest.com Bright hotel with a wide choice bretagne.com
Old granite manor in a park, of family rooms, good facilities Three rooms in an 18th-century
with a relaxed country house and excellent buffet breakfasts. longère surrounded by exotic
atmosphere and warm lounge. gardens with cockatiels. Also
offers two rooms in rustic cabins.
ST-BRIEUC: Hôtel de Clisson €€
Classic Map D2 Northern Finistère LOGONNA-DAOULAS: Domaine
36 Rue Gouët, 22000 de Moulin Mer €€
Tel (02) 96 62 19 29 BREST: Hôtel de la Corniche € B&B Map B2
∑ hoteldeclisson.com Family Map B2 34 Rue de Moulin Mer, 29460
Set in a charming garden, with 1 Rue Amiral-Nicol, 29200 Tel (02) 98 07 24 45
a pond and fountain. Splurge Tel (02) 98 45 12 42 ∑ domaine-moulin-mer.com
on the VIP room with the ∑ hotel-la-corniche.com A 19th-century mansion on
colour-therapy Jacuzzi. Set in a peaceful area near the a sheltered coast with stylish
scenic coastline, this hotel offers rooms and a wellness spa,
ST-QUAY-PORTRIEUX: pretty pastel-hued rooms. located amid palms and mimosa.
Ker Moor €€
Historic Map D1 CARANTEC: Hôtel de MORLAIX: Hôtel de l’Europe €€
13 Rue-du-Président-le-Sénécal, Carantec €€€ Family Map C1
22410 Classic Map B1 1 Rue d’Aiguillon, 29600
Tel (02) 96 70 52 22 20 Rue de Kelenn, 29660 Tel (02) 98 62 11 99
∑ ker-moor.com Tel (02) 98 67 00 47 ∑ hoteleurope-morlaix.com
Delightful, smart rooms in a ∑ leschaumieresdekerguan.com A Second Empire hotel with
flamboyant Moorish-style Elegant clifftop hotel from the elegant woodwork in the lobby.
cliff-top villa with lovely views. 1930s, with splendid sea views Rooms are modern, comfortable
and Michelin-starred chef Patrick and soundproofed.
TRÉBEURDEN: Manoir de Jeffroy’s excellent restaurant.
Lan-Kerellec €€€ DK Choice
Luxury Map C1 HANVEC: Les Chaumières de
Allée Centrale de Lan-Kerellec, 22560 Kerguan € PLOUGONVELIN: Hostellerie
Tel (02) 96 15 00 00 B&B Map B2 de la Pointe St-Mathieu €€
∑ lankerellec.com Kerguan, 29460 Classic Map A2
A Relais & Châteaux hotel in a Tel (02) 98 21 97 75 Pointe de St-Mathieu, 29217
19th-century Breton manor ∑ hoteldecarantec.com Tel (02) 98 89 00 19
house with seafront gardens Authentic thatched farmhouse ∑ pointe-saint-mathieu.com
and gorgeous views. and other farm buildings housing Splendidly situated over a
simply furnished rooms and a gîte. rocky shore on the extreme
TRÉGASTEL: Park Hôtel western point of continental
Bellevue €€ HUELGOAT: Hôtel du Lac € France, this hotel affords
Historic Map C1 Family Map C2 beautiful views of the lighthouse
20 Rue des Calculots, 22730 12 Rue de Général-du-Gaulle, 29690 and ruins of St-Mathieu Abbey.
Tel (02) 96 23 88 18 Tel (02) 98 99 71 14 The contemporary designed
∑ hotelbellevuetregastel.com ∑ hoteldulac-huelgoat.com rooms are comfortable and
The gracious 1930s Bellevue Lovely well-refurbished rooms well-equipped. There is a
is set in a flower-filled garden beside a wooded lake in the spa, an indoor pool and a
and looks out over the sea. Monts d’Arrée. There is a restaurant serving delicious
restaurant-pizzeria on site. cuisine by the fireplace.
ÎLE D’OUESSANT: Le Ti Jan
Ar C’Hafe € PLOUGONVEN: La Grange
B&B Map A2 de Coatélan €
Kernigou, 29242 B&B Map C2
Tel (02) 98 48 82 64 D109, Coatélan, 29640
∑ tijan.fr Tel (02) 98 72 60 16
Beautifully renovated house run ∑ lagrangedecoatelan.fr
by a delightful owner. Rooms are A converted 16th-century
in warm tones, and there is a farm set amid gardens, with
neat garden and wooden terrace. a terrace facing a meadow.
LANDÉDA: La Baie des Anges €€ ROSCOFF: Hôtel aux Tamaris €€
Luxury Map A1 Classic Map B1
350 Rue des Anges, 29870 49 Rue Edouard Corbière, 29680
Tel (02) 98 04 90 04 Tel (02) 98 61 22 99
∑ baie-des-anges.com ∑ hotel-aux-tamaris.com
Seaside resort hotel overlooking Built in 1935, this is a modernized
the splendid coastline. Contem- seafront hotel close to the thalas-
Comfortable corner for reading, Domaine porary and smartly decorated sotherapy centre. The dining
de Moulin Mer, Logonna-Daoulas rooms. Hearty breakfasts. room offers panoramic views.
Key to Price Guide see page 224

224-229_EW_Brittany.indd 226 11/3/16 12:51 PM

WHERE T O ST A Y  227

ROSCOFF: Le Brittany €€
Luxury Map B1
Blvd Ste-Barbe, 29681
Tel (02) 98 69 70 78
∑ hotel-brittany.com
A beautiful Breton manor house,
with period pieces, luxurious
amenities and a superb restaurant.
ST-POL-DE-LÉON: Hôtel de
France €
Classic Map B1
29 Rue Minimes, 29250
Tel (02) 98 29 14 14
∑ hoteldefrancebretagne.com The luxurious La Ferme Saint-Vennec in Combrit
Relaxed, tranquil and friendly
spot set in extensive gardens CONCARNEAU: enormous park of woodland.
that are great for breakfast Les Sables Blancs €€ Rooms are decorated with
outdoors in fine weather. Classic Map B3 stunning period pieces. There
45 Rue des Sables Blancs are also gîtes on the estate,
Tel 02 98 50 10 12 sleeping up to five.
∑ hotel-les-sables-blancs.com
Southern Finistère Modern, white-and-wood hotel MOËLAN-SUR-MER: Manoir
on a soft sandy beach, with a de Kertalg €€
AUDIERNE: Au Roi Gradlon €€ gorgeous seaside terrace. Luxury Map C3
Family Map A2 Rue de Riec-sur-Belon, 29350
3 Ave Manu-Brusq, 29770 DOUARNENEZ: Hostellerie Le Tel (02) 98 39 77 77
Tel (02) 98 70 04 51 Clos de Vallombreuse €€ ∑ manoirdekertalg.com
∑ auroigradlon.com Historic Map B2 Elegantly furnished
Modern hotel on the beach, 7 Rue d’Estienne-d’Orves, 29100 rooms in the stone-built
with blue-and-white rooms, most Tel 02 98 92 63 64 stables of a delightful chateau.
offering splendid ocean views. ∑ closvallombreuse.com
Elegant hotel in an early 20th- PONT-AVEN: Roz Aven €
BÉNODET: Domaine de century villa, in a quiet park Historic Map B3
Kereven €€ with views across the bay. 11 Quai Theodore-Botrel, 29930
Historic Map B3 Tel (02) 98 06 13 06
Kereven, 29950 FORÊT FOUESNANT: Le Manoir ∑ hotelpontaven.com
Tel (02) 98 57 02 46 du Stang €€ Stay in a room overlooking the
∑ kereven.fr Historic Map B3 harbour in this picture-perfect
The natural charm of this 1742 Le Stang, 29940 16th-century thatched cottage
farmhouse is enhanced by its Tel (02) 98 56 96 38 and adjacent modern extension.
lush garden setting. Just a mile ∑ manoirdustang.com
away from the sea. Stunning manor house on a lake PONT-L’ABBÉ:
with carved fireplaces, antiques Hôtel de Bretagne €
DK Choice and gardens. Family Map B3
24 Pl de la République, 29120
COMBRIT: La Ferme Saint- FOUESNANT: Mona Lisa à Tel (02) 98 87 17 22
Vennec €€€ Cap Coz €€ ∑ hoteldebretagne29.com
Luxury Map B3 Family Map B3 Centrally located, family-run
Rue de la Clarté, 29120 Plage de Cap Coz, 29170 hotel-restaurant with simple
Tel (02) 98 56 74 53 Tel (02) 98 51 18 10 rooms, a walled garden and
∑ lafermesaintvennec.com ∑ hotel-monalisa-capcoz.monalisa.fr a pretty terrace.
An idyllic collection of 18th- Big, white hotel with direct
century farms, completely access to the beach. Most QUIMPER: Hôtel Gradlon €€
secluded in the countryside, rooms have sea views. Classic Map B3
and stunningly restored with 30 Rue de Brest, 29000
top-notch five-star furnishings. ÎLE DE SEIN: Hôtel d’Ar Men € Tel (02) 98 95 04 39
Offers both rooms as well as Classic Map A2 ∑ hotel-gradlon.fr
self-catering cottages that sleep 32 Rue Ferdinand Crouton, 29170 Charming rooms located near
up to six, and a heated pool. Tel (02) 98 70 90 77 the historic centre, with a few
Baby-sitting is available on ∑ hotel-armen.net looking across the garden
request. It is also popular for Friendly, peaceful hotel and and fountain.
weddings and seminars. restaurant near the lighthouse,
on the western tip of the island. TRÉGUNC: Les Grandes
Roches €€
CONCARNEAU: Ker-Moor €€ LANDUDEC: Château de Historic Map B3
Classic Map B3 Guilguiffin €€ Rue des Grandes Roches, 29910
Plage des Sables-Blancs, 29900 Historic Map B3 Tel (02) 98 97 62 97
Tel (02) 98 97 02 96 29710 ∑ hotel-lesgrandesroches.com
∑ hotel-kermor.com Tel (02) 98 91 52 11 Peaceful place, with two
An early 20th-century former villa ∑ chateau-guilguiffin.com charming suites in thatched
charmingly furnished with items Magnificent 18th-century cottages. Lovely gardens
recovered from old cargo ships. chateau, surrounded by an and breakfast terrace.
For more information on types of hotels see page 223
224-229_EW_Brittany.indd 227 11/3/16 12:51 PM

228  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

HENNEBONT: Château de LOCMARIAQUER: Les Trois
Morbihan Locguénolé €€€ Fontaines €€
Luxury Map C3 Classic Map D4
AURAY: Hôtel du Golf Saint- 1 km (half a mile) south of Rosnarho, Golfe de Morbihan, 56470
Laurent €€ Hennebont, 56700 Tel (02) 97 57 42 70
Classic Map D3 Tel (02) 97 76 76 76 ∑ hotel-troisfontaines.com
Golf de Saint-Laurent, 56400 ∑ chateau-de-locguenole.com Elegant rooms facing colourful
Tel (02) 97 56 88 88 Elegant period rooms in a flowerbeds at the edge of an
∑ hotel-golf-saint-laurent.com romantic 18th­century chateau oyster­farming village.
Modern hotel with its own golf and manor house, surrounded
course. Rooms have private by a wooded park. LORIENT: Hôtel Escale Oceania €€
terraces overlooking the gardens. Classic Map C3
ÎLE DE GROIX: 30 Rue du Couedic, 56100
BELLE-ÎLE-EN-MER: Hôtel de la Marine €€ Tel (02) 97 64 13 27
La Désirade €€ Classic Map C3 ∑ oceaniahotels.com
Family Map C4 7 Rue de Général de Gaulle, 56590 Friendly city centre hotel with
Petit Cosquet, Bangor, 56360 Tel (02) 97 86 80 05 comfortable, soundproofed rooms.
Tel (02) 97 31 70 70 ∑ hoteldelamarine.com
∑ hotel-la-desirade.com Expect a warm welcome at this LORIENT: Les Pecheurs €
Rooms in this hotel come in relaxing hideaway, with rooms Classic Map C3
soothing pastel tones and are overlooking the sea or garden. 7 Rue Jean La Garde, 56100
spread over several traditional Tel (02) 97 21 19 24
houses. A good base for LA GACILLY: La Grée des ∑ hotel-lespecheurs.com
exploring the island. Landes €€ Refurbished one­star hotel near
Classic Map E3 the marina. Tidy rooms and a
DK Choice Cournon, 56200 lively bar popular with locals.
Tel (02) 99 08 50 50
BELLE-ÎLE-EN-MER: Castel ∑ lagreedeslandes.com PLOËRMEL: Hôtel Le Cobh €
Clara €€€ Yves Rocher­owned eco­hotel/spa Family Map D3
Luxury Map C4 close to its Vegetarium gardens 10 Rue des Forges, 56800
Port-Goulphar, 56360 (see p70), with natural, minimalist Tel (02) 97 74 00 49
Tel (02) 97 31 84 21 rooms with private terraces. ∑ hotel-lecobh.com
∑ castel-clara.com Inspired by Brocéliande legends,
Relais & Château hotel in an LA ROCHE-BERNARD: Le Cobh offers three types of
idyllic location looking out over L’Auberge Bretonne € themed rooms: sacred rites and
the Goulphar cove. The almost Historic Map E4 literature, forest, and opalescence.
luminous, contemporary rooms 2 Pl du Guesclin, 56130
and suites are done up in soft Tel (02) 99 90 60 28 DK Choice
tones and fitted with all ameni­ ∑ auberge-bretonne.com
ties. Many have terraces with sea This early 20th­century Breton PLOËRMEL: Dihan €€
views. There is also an excellent town house offers a choice of Family Map D3
spa and thalassotherapy centre lovely airy, period rooms. Kerganiet, 56400
as well as a superb restaurant. Tel (02) 97 56 88 27
LA TRINITÉ-SUR-MER: ∑ dihan-evasion.org
Le Lodge Kerisper €€€ This former working farm is a
BILLIERS: Domaine de Luxury Map C3 delight for nature lovers, offering
Rochevilaine €€€ 4 Rue de Latz, 56470 rooms in a barn, a treehouse; a
Luxury Map D4 Tel (02) 97 52 88 56 Mongolian yurt; a Nordic chalet;
16 Rue du Phare, 56190 ∑ lodge-kerisper.com a gypsy caravan; and a bubble
Tel (02) 97 41 61 61 Charming boutique hotel tent. There is a spa and activities
∑ domainerochevilaine.com set in a former farm building, including paddle boards, kite
Stunning rooms in a beautiful with a conservatory, parquet surfing, hiking and bicycle hire.
16th­ and 17th­century estate floors and terrace gardens.
overlooking the ocean.
CARNAC: Hôtel An Ti Gwenn €€
Family Map C4
2 Rue Poul Person, 56340
Tel (02) 97 52 00 73
∑ hotel-antigwenn.com
Situated near the Grande Plage,
the “white house” offers spick­
and­span modern rooms.
CARNAC: Hôtel Celtique €€
Classic Map C4
17 Ave Kermario/82 Ave des Druides,
56190
Tel (02) 97 52 14 15
∑ hotel-celtique.com
Near one of the bay’s most lovely
beaches. Rooms look across a
garden with ancient pines. Gypsy caravan, one of the rooms available at Hotel Dihan in Ploërmel
Key to Price Guide see page 224

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WHERE T O ST A Y  229

PONTIVY: Hôtel de l’Europe €€ NANTES: Hôtel La Pérouse €€
Historic Map D3 Classic Map F4
12 Rue François-Mitterand, 56300 3 Allée Duquesne, 44000
Tel (02) 97 25 11 14 Tel (02) 40 89 75 00
∑ hotellerieurope.com ∑ hotel-laperouse.fr
A 19th-century mansion set in a Set in a landmark modern
walled garden. Well-kept rooms, building, with glossy wooden
some with canopy beds. flooring and designer fittings.
Good buffet breakfast.
PRESQU’ÎLE DE QUIBERON:
Hôtel Bellevue € PORNIC: Hôtel Beau Soleil €€
Family Map C4 Family Map E5
Rue de Tiviec, 56173 70 Quai Leray, 44210
Tel (02) 97 50 16 28 Tel (02) 40 82 34 58
∑ hotel-bellevuequiberon.com ∑ hotel-beausoleil-pornic.com
Located near the thalassotherapy Small but bright and modern,
centre, this modern seaside hotel soundproofed rooms on the
is built around a heated pool. harbour, nearly all offering
The classic Villa Kerasy hotel sea views. Some family rooms.
SARZEAU: Le Mur du Roy € in Vannes
Classic Map D4 PORNICHET: Le Régent €€
43 Chemin du Mur du Roy, 56370 overlooking the sea and Île de Classic Map D4
Tel (02) 97 67 34 08 Noirmoitier. Rooms have views 150 Blvd des Océanides, 44210
∑ lemurduroy.com of the beach or garden. Tel (02) 40 61 04 04
Informal, friendly place with ∑ le-regent.fr
direct access to the beach and GUÉRANDE: La Guérandière €€ Smart hotel with themed
a fine restaurant with panoramic B&B Map D4 rooms: choose from pop, design,
sea views. 5 Rue Vannetaise, 44350 romantic, retro or Baroque. A
Tel (02) 40 62 17 15 Jacuzzi, hammam and wellness
VANNES: Hôtel La ∑ guerandiere.com treatments are on offer.
Marébaudière €€ A former hôtel particulier (town
Family Map D3 house) with a walled garden, SORINIÈRES: Abbaye de
4 Rue Aristide Briand, 56000 stained glass, wood-carved Villeneuve €€
Tel (02) 97 47 34 29 panels and parquet floors. Historic Map F5
∑ marebaudiere.com Rue de La Roche-sur-Yon, 44840
Peaceful hotel located near the DK Choice Tel (02) 40 04 40 25
old walled town. It boasts modern, ∑ abbayedevilleneuve.com
stylish rooms overlooking a LA BAULE: A beautiful abbey set in tranquil
garden courtyard. Free car Saint-Christophe €€€ parkland just 10 minutes from
parking is available. Family Map D4 Nantes airport. Fully restored in
1 Ave Alcyons, 44500 1977, it has lovely furnished
DK Choice Tel (02) 40 62 40 00 rooms and a gourmet restaurant.
∑ st-christophe.com
VANNES: Villa Kerasy €€ Housed in four ivy-covered DK Choice
Classic Map D3 villas dating from the 1910s,
20 Ave Favrel & Lincy, 56000 in a quiet corner of La Baule, ST-JOACHIM: La Mare Aux
Tel (02) 97 68 36 83 this hotel offers a comfortable Oiseaux €€€
∑ villakerasy.com country-house atmosphere. Classic Map E4
Villa Kerasy is a unique There is a pretty garden and 223 Rue du Chef de l’île, 44720
boutique hotel near Vannes’ terrace, as well as exceptional Tel (02) 40 88 53 01
medieval centre. The decor of family facilities: eight family ∑ mareauxoiseaux.com
each room evokes one of the rooms, toys, DVDs, baby In the bird-filled Grande Brière
15 spice ports of the 17th- equipment and special dinners marshlands, this hotel, part of
century East India Company. for kids in the summer. the eco-aware, wellness-
There is a lovely terrace, a oriented Relais du Silence
Japanese garden, Ayurvedic chain, offers chic bou tique
Indian cuisine, and relaxing LE CROISIC: Fort de l’Océan €€€ bedrooms plus three rooms in
massages to be enjoyed in Luxury Map D4 wooden cabins. There is a spa
a private spa. Pointe de Croisic, 44490 and a superb contem porary
Tel (02) 40 15 77 77 restaurant, specializing in
∑ hotelfortocean.com locally sourced ingredients.
Ramparts from the 17th century
enclose this sumptuous hotel
Loire-Atlantique that was formerly a seafront fort. ST-SAVEUR DE LANDEMONT:
Château de la Colaissière €€
BERNERIE-EN-RETZ: Château NANTES: Hôtel de France €€ Historic Map F4
de la Gressière €€ Classic Map D4 37 Rue du Calvaire, 49270
Historic Map E5 24 Rue Crebillon, 44000 Tel (02) 40 98 75 04
Rue Noue-Fleurie, 44500 Tel (02) 40 73 57 91 ∑ colaissiere.com
Tel (02) 51 74 60 06 ∑ oceaniahotels.com A grand Renaissance chateau
∑ lagressiere.com This boutique, 18th-century hôtel encircled by a moat, with
Lavish, regency-style furnishings particulier in the city centre has stunning period rooms and
in a 19th-century manor house smart designer rooms. lounges with fireplaces.
For more information on types of hotels see page 223
224-229_EW_Brittany.indd 229 11/3/16 12:51 PM

230  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS
WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK


The foremost agricultural region of France, artichokes. Other specialities include Breton
Brittany abounds in produce that is the cider and the prized Muscadet from the
basis of the region’s cuisine. Brittany is best vineyards around Nantes. From the finest
known for its fish and shellfish, but locally meals served in some of the most highly
produced cooked meats and free-range reputed establishments in France to a
poultry find place on the menu as well. delicious plate of pancakes enjoyed in a
The region also grows excellent fruit and simple crêperie, Brittany’s restaurants
vegetables, including strawberries and cater for all tastes and all pockets.

and Pénestin; as well as whelks,
winkles, shrimps, spider crabs
and lobsters, can be found
piled high in almost every
market near the coast. While
lovers of seafood never tire
of Brittany’s scallops, top chefs
are now beginning to use
edible seaweed and samphire
in their dishes as well.
Depending on the season,
Brittany’s inland areas also offer
a range of culinary delights.
Potatoes, a basic ingredient
in all Breton cuisine, artichokes,
L’Auberge Bretonne in La Roche-Bernard (see p242) cauliflowers, beans (such as
those known as coco de
Types of Restaurants the best. There are fast-food Paimpol), lamb’s lettuce from
Bretons are fond of good outlets, pizzerias, snack bars the Nantes area, asparagus,
food, and locally grown produce and crêperies (pancake houses) onions from Roscoff, turnips and
provides plenty of opportunities as well as upmarket restaurants leeks are all popular ingredients.
for creating excellent dishes. to choose from. Locally grown fruit includes
Away from the coasts, especially, Tables et Saveurs de apples, pears and kiwi fruit,
there are restaurants that offer Bretagne is an association as well as juicy melons from
authentic Breton cuisine at of 44 restaurants in Brittany the Rennes area.
reasonable prices. The fermes- that offer original Breton
auberges (farmhouse inns) cuisine based on local produce. Breton Specialities
and tables d’hôtes are good Information on these restau-
options for enjoying simple, rants is available from the Brittany is famous for its
inexpensive dishes made Comité Régional du Tourisme. traditional butter bis cuits and
with local produce. On the delectable pancakes, as well as
coasts, the choice is wider, for the tempting plateau de
but the quality may not be Local Produce fruits mer (seafood platter) and
Breton cuisine is renowned homard à l’armoricaine (lobster
chiefly for its fish and seafood served in a spicy garlic and
dishes. The grilled mackerel tomato sauce). Another great
and sardines served in the classic, albeit in a different
region are particularly delicious league, is a dish of mussels
because of the freshness of known as moules marinière
local catches. Monkfish, sea (mussels cooked in wine).
bass, yellow pollack, turbot, The region is also a prime
red mullet, sole or sea bream, producer of pork and offers
gently baked or served with a range of products made
beurre blanc (a butter, vinegar from pig meat. Two of the
and shallot sauce) are succulent most prominent are andouilles
dishes. In the Loire-Atlantique, (chitterling sau sages made
shad, elvers and lamprey also with lard) from Guéméné-sur-
appear on the menu. Seafood, Scorff, and sausages and pâté
such as oysters from Cancale, (including the famous Hénaff
Les Filets Bleus in Lannion Paimpol, Aven-Belon, Quiberon brand) from Baye. As for meat
(see p236) and Croisic; mussels from Vivier dishes, there is the mouth-




230-231_EW_Brittany.indd 230 11/3/16 1:03 PM

WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK  231


Du, a wheat beer. Muscadet from
the Loire-Atlantique is a delicate,
crisp, dry wine.

Practicalities
Irrespective of the season, it
is advisable to book a restaurant
table in advance. While informal
dress is perfectly acceptable in
most restaurants, such casual
wear as shorts is likely to attract
disapproval in high-end establish-
ments. Swimming costumes
are unacceptable, except in
beach-side restaurants.
Most restaurants in Brittany
offer set price menus that are
far cheaper than ordering à la
carte. Most places across the Tables outside a crêperie on the Rue
Les Forges, a restaurant near the Forêt de region accept the main credit St-Georges in Rennes
Brocéliande (see p235) cards. However, in country areas,
be sure to carry some cash. Fine Dining refers to formal,
watering agneau de pré-salé elegant restaurants that offer
(salt-pasture lamb) from some of the best dining experi-
Mont-St-Michel and Île de Children ences in France. Visitors can try
Ouessant, roast duckling and Children are welcomed in new exciting dishes that make
cold duck galantine. Brittany, and many restaurants, imaginative use of Brittany’s
Breton salted butter (French such as crêperies, are suitable for splendid meats, seafood and
butter is otherwise unsalted) families. Most establishments produce at the creative restau-
is also highly prized. In the offer special menus for children, rants. Seafood restaurants
days before refrigerators existed, and some provide highchairs specialize in fish and shellfish,
salt was added to butter as a for toddlers. but most offer meat choices
preservative, and to this day as well. Traditional and/or con-
salted butter is an essential temporary takes on regional
ingredient in Breton cuisine. Recommended cuisine can be tried in Breton-
Restaurants
Salt from Guérande, meanwhile, themed restaurants. Bistros tend
is famous across France. The restaurants in this guide to be informal and affordable,
Breton cakes include the have been selected for their with chalk-board menus and
kouign amann (cake made with excellent food, outstanding jugs of wine on the table.
wheat flour, butter and sugar), location and good value. The Crêperies serve both savoury and
which is eaten warm. Far (Breton restaurants run across a wide sweet filled pancakes, but most
prune flan) and quatre-quarts price range and cuisine types. also prepare salads and grilled
(a rich sponge cake) are other meats as well as jugs of cider.
deservedly famous specialities, The restaurants picked out as
along with Traou-Mad de being a “DK Choice” have been
Pont-Aven (cookies), Pleyben high lighted for an exceptional
or St-Michel galettes (butter feature – exquisite food or
biscuits) and the wafer-thin inviting atmosphere.
crêpes-dentelles from Quimper.
Cider is the most popular DIRECTORY
drink in Brittany. Although many
people like cidre doux (sweet Types of Restaurants
cider), connoisseurs prefer cidre Comité Régional
brut (dry cider). The best cider- du Tourisme
producing regions of Brittany Tel (02) 99 28 44 30.
are the areas around Dol-de- ∑ tourismebretagne.com
Bretagne and the Arguenon,
Rance, Messac, Fouesnant and Tables et Saveurs de
Domagné valleys. Chouchen, Bretagne
∑ tablesetsaveursde
a kind of mead, is also worth bretagne.com
samp ling, as is the locally brewed
beer. Among the best brands Le Jardin Gourmand in Lorient
are Coreff, of Morlaix, and Telenn (see p242)



230-231_EW_Brittany.indd 231 11/3/16 1:03 PM

232  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS


The Flavours of Brittany

Although the food most commonly associated with this part of
France is the simple but scrumptious crêpe, visitors will easily
find a good range of far more gastronomic fare, much of it based
around the region’s top quality vegetables and seafood. Brittany
has an extensive coastline – around 1,700 km (1,055 miles) long
– and really fresh fish is readily available. Of particular note are
the fine oysters, reared in penned-off areas close to the shore. Not
surprisingly, given the region’s many pig farms, charcuterie features Globe artichokes
strongly on the Breton menu. Hearty stews made with lamb and
beef are also good, especially washed down with the local cider.

Guémené, a smoked sausage Fish and Shellfish
made from pigs’ intestines. The sea off Brittany is rich in
On the marshy fields just fish. Loctudy is a major port
inland from the coast, pré-salé for mackerel, while Audierne is
(salt-marsh) lamb is raised. noted for langoustines, as Erquy
Most Breton farms rear cows and Loguivy-de-la-Mer are for
for dairying, especially the scallops. Lobsters, crabs, prawns
black and white pie noire breed, (shrimp), mussles, clams,
but there are some cattle, whelks, cockles and oysters are
mostly Charolais or Charolais also found in abundance. Huge
crosses, that are reared for their platters of seafood are served at
excellent beef. restaurants all along the coast.
Mussel-cultivation beds in
the Baie de Cancale Oysters Prawns Lobster Mackerel Sardines
(shrimp)
Meat and Charcuterie Mussels
Brittany is France’s main
pig-rearing region. Look out
for porc fermier, meat from pigs
raised in the open on a cereal-
based diet, and for the region’s
superb charcuterie, which
includes a variety of cooked and
smoked hams, garlic sausage,
boudin noir (black pudding),
pâté breton, a coarsely textured
pork terrine, and andouille de Selection of typical Breton fish and seafood

Local Dishes and Specialities
Meals often start with fish or shellfish. Fish soups,
moules marinières and stuffed clams or scallops
are popular, as are oysters, especially
when served with rye bread spread
with Breton salted butter. A lobster or
crab with mayonnaise, or one of the
massive platters of mixed seafood, make
a meal in themselves. The main course may
Salted butter be fresh fish baked in sea salt, braised in cider
or à l’armoricaine (in a herby tomato sauce).
Meat dishes include hearty stews, roast pork and lamb à la
bretonne (with haricot beans, garlic, shallots and tomatoes).
Prawns (shrimp) may come with cauliflower and boudin noir Homard à l’armoricaine Fresh
(black pudding) with slices of apple. Favoured desserts include lobster pieces are cooked in a
crêpes, far aux pruneaux (a prune and batter pudding) and sauce of tomato, garlic and
Plougastel strawberries. herbs, enriched with cognac.






232-233_EW_Brittany.indd 232 11/3/16 12:42 PM

WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK  233



potatoes and tomatoes.
Plougastel is famous for its
sweet succulent strawberries.

Baked Goods
An array of delicious baked
goods can be found in Brittany
including Kouign-amann (a
sweet bread), sablé (shortbread)
biscuits, quatre-quarts (a rich
buttery cake), and crêpes
Display of vegetables at a market stall in Vannes dentelles (thin, sugary pancakes,
rolled up and baked until crispy).
Breton oysters are highly prized. Fruit and Vegetables
Two basic types are on offer: the Brittany’s mild winters make ON THE MENU
more common, crinkled creuse it an important area for winter
variety and the flat, rounded and early spring vegetables. Crêpes Thin pancakes with both
belons, reared at Riec-sur-Belon Globe artichokes fill local market savoury and sweet fillings
in the south and at Cancale on stalls from October to May and Bisque de homard A smooth
the north coast. The mussels most of France’s cauliflowers creamy lobster soup
that are cultivated in the Vilaine come from northern Finistère. Feuilleté aux fruits de mer
estuary and the Baie de Other important crops include Shellfish in puff pastry
Cancale, are also popular. onions, shallots, haricot Fricassée de pétoncles Clams
beans, asparagus, broccoli, and leeks fricasséed with white
Butter and Dairy wine and cream
Produce Gigot à la bretonne Leg of
lamb with white haricot beans,
Salted butter is a Breton tomatoes and garlic
speciality and is excellent
on rye bread to accompany Kig ha fars Meat and vegetable
oysters. It is also used in hotpot with buckwheat dumpling
regional delicacies such as salt Roulade sévigné A roulade of
butter caramels and ice cream. guinea fowl, apples and ham
Brittany also produces much Artichauts à la rennaise
of France’s fresh milk. Curiously, Artichokes with a ham stuffing
though, cheese production is Bardatte nantaise Braised
only on a small scale. Local cabbage stuffed with rabbit
offerings include several fine Morue aux poireaux à la
goat cheeses as well as the mild, brestoise Salt cod with leeks
semi-soft cheeses, Campénéac, Sign outside a crêperie in the medieval and potatoes in a creamy sauce
Timadeuc and St-Paulin. village of Locronan
















Moules marinières Mussels are Cotriade This traditional stew of Far aux pruneaux Prunes, first
steamed with dry white wine, fish, cooked with potato and soaked in tea, rum or apple eau-
shallots, parsley and butter until onion, is often poured over with de-vie, are baked in a thick
their shells open. slices of toast. sweetened batter.






232-233_EW_Brittany.indd 233 11/3/16 12:42 PM

234  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

Where to Eat and Drink

ranging from lobster, foie Price Guide
Ille-et-Vilaine gras and grilled monkfish to Prices are based on a three-course meal
sea bass, all prepared by the for one, including a half-bottle of house
BILLE: Ferme de Mésauboin € dynamic eponymous chef. wine, tax and service.
Breton Map F2 € under €40
On the D23, 2 km (1 mile) west FOUGÈRES: Le Haute-Sève € €€ €40 to €70
of Bille, 35133 French Map F2 €€€ over €70
Tel (02) 99 97 61 57 37 Blvd Jean-Jaurès, 35300
A charming 17th-century manor Tel (02) 99 94 23 39 Closed Sun LIFFRÉ: L’Escu de Runfao €€
offering authentic farmhouse & Mon; 3 weeks in Aug Fine Dining Map F2
cooking. Home-made pâté, duck Housed in an elegant Art La Quinte (Domaine de la Reposée),
in cider and gratin fougerais are Deco room, this longtime local 35340
specialties. Book in advance. favourite serves beautifully Tel (02) 99 68 31 51 Closed 3 weeks
presented dishes with flavours in Aug
CANCALE: Le Surcouf €€ that surprise. Book ahead. The sumptuous cuisine at this
Seafood Map E1 restaurant includes seafood
7 Quai Gambetta, 35260 FOUGÈRES: with truffles, partridge, venison
Tel (02) 99 89 61 75 Galon ar Breizh €€ as well as extravagant desserts.
Unpretentious spot on the port, French Map F2 Dine outdoors on a terrace
known for its excellent shellfish 10 Place Gambetta, 35300 facing the lovely garden.
platters, whole fish à la plancha Tel (02) 99 99 14 17 Closed Oct–
(grilled) and a formidable wine list. Apr: Fri, Sat lunch MONT-ST-MICHEL: La Sirène €
The menu here specializes in Crêperie Map F1
DK Choice Breton produce, especially seafood. Grand Rue, 50170 Closed Jan
Tel (02) 33 60 08 60
Lobster mousse with a saffron
CANCALE: Le Coquillage €€€ vinaigrette and hen with creamy Simple but pleasant choice in
Fine Dining Map E1 cider sauce are deliciousl. Try the touristy Mont-St-Michel. Serves
Le Buot, St-Méloir-les-Ondes, 6 km superb eggs-in-snow for dessert. buckwheat galettes, savoury and
(3.7 miles) S of Cancale, 35350 sweet crêpes, salads, and cider.
Tel (02) 99 89 64 76 Closed mid- HÉDÉ: L’Hostellerie de
Jan–mid-Feb; 2 weeks in Mar; Vieux Moulin € MONT-ST-MICHEL: Le Pré Salé €€
Jul & Aug French Map E2 Breton Map F1
Set in a peaceful seafront setting, Ancienne Rue de St-Malo, 35630 Route de St-Michel BP8, 50170
famous chef Olivier Roellinger’s Tel (02) 99 45 45 70 Closed Mon– Tel (02) 33 60 24 17
restaurant takes diners on a Fri in Nov, Dec & Feb Situated outside the centre,
culinary adventure. The dishes Set in a charming old water mill Le Pré Salé is known for the
combine local seafood with and popular for the excellent exquisite local delicacy,
exotic spices and flavours to innovative cuisine served by the saltmarsh-grazed lamb.
per fection – think chocolate young chef. Try the wild boar.
with chilli, Asian lime or lemon MONT-ST-MICHEL: Relais
confit. There is a special tasting HÉDÉ: La Vieille Auberge €€ St-Michel €€
menu and amazing desserts. French Map E2 Breton Map F1
La Vallée des Moulins, 35630 La Caserne, 2 km (1 mile) from the
Tel (02) 99 45 46 25 Closed Sun mount, 35260
CHATEAUBOURG: Ar Milin €€ dinner, Mon, 2 weeks in Mar Tel (02) 33 89 32 00
French Map F3 Feast on generous portions of Dine with superb views of Mont-
30 Rue de Paris, 35221 exquisite venison, roast lamb St-Michel at this restaurant. Serves
Tel (02) 99 00 30 91 Closed Sat lunch, and ris de veau (sweet bread) at mostly traditional dishes, inclu-
Jan 1–7 this 17th-century inn with a ding roast lamb and omelettes
Interestingly planned around a beautiful terrace. flambéed with Calvados.
flour mill, with lovely views of the
Vilaine river. The menu includes lots
of seafood. There is also a bistro.
DINARD: La Passerelle du Clair
de Lune €
Seafood Map E1
3 Ave George V, 35800
Tel (02) 99 16 96 37 Closed Tue & Wed
Serves innovative dishes that do
justice to the day’s catch and
exotic spices. Decadent des serts,
and stunning views of the port.
DINARD: Didier Méril €€
Fine Dining Map E1
1 Place Général-de-Gaulle, 35800
Tel (02) 99 46 95 74
Known for its unabashed luxury,
Didier Méril features dishes Peaceful seafront setting at Le Coquillage in Cancale

234-243_EW_Brittany.indd 234 11/3/16 12:52 PM

WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK  235

NOYAL-SUR-VILLAINE: Auberge
du Pont d’Acigné €€
Fine Dining Map F3
Rue d’Acigné, 35530
Tel (02) 99 62 52 55 Closed Sun
dinner, Mon & Tue; 1 week in May; 3
weeks in Aug
This Michelin-starred restaurant
boasts a lovely dining room and
a rising chef who has a way with
seafood. The menu features cre-
ative dishes with lots of truffles.
DK Choice
PAIMPONT: Les Forges de
Paimpont €
Breton Map E3
Rue des Forges (Plélan-le-Grand), Outside seating at the charming Crêperie Ahna in Dinan, Côtes d'Armor
35380
Tel (02) 99 06 81 07 Closed Mon, pretty garden and fountain. outdoor tables and a wide choice
Tue & Sun dinner The chef has bags of personality, of crêpes and galettes. Vegetarian
An old stone forge in a magical reflected in dishes such as cod options also available.
location in the Forêt de with lemon balm, turnips, white
Brocéliande, run by the fourth haricot beans and shellfish sauce. ST-MALO:
generation of owners, this A La Duchesse Anne €€
historic inn serves traditional ST-JOUAN DES GUERETS: Ferme Fine Dining Map E1
Breton cuisine using local de la Porte € 5 Place Guy-la-Chambre, 35400
produce. Game dishes, terrines Breton Map E1 Tel (02) 99 40 85 33 Closed Dec–
and home-smoked salmon and Centre-ville, 35430 mid-Feb
duck are the house speci alities. Tel (02) 99 81 10 76 Closed Mon Long-established restaurant
Great atmosphere. A farmhouse with views of the with a sweetly nostalgic dining
Rance estuary, known for its room as well as outdoor seating.
hearty traditional food: home- Serves delicious classic French
RENNES: Le Cour des Lices € made charcuterie, suckling pig, cuisine – Chateaubriand and
French Map E3 duck and lamb. Booking essential. lobster à l’armoricaine.
18 Place des Lices, 35000
Tel (02) 99 30 25 25 Closed Sun & ST-LUNAIRE: Le Décollé €€ ST-MALO: Le Chalut €€
Mon; 2 weeks in May, first 2 weeks in Aug Seafood Map E1 Fine Dining Map E1
One of Rennes’ best eateries, Le 1 Pointe de Décollé, 35800 8 Rue de la Corne-de-Cerf, 35400
Cour des Lices serves delicious Tel (02) 99 46 01 70 Closed Mon; Tel (02) 99 56 71 58 Closed Mon
food in a 17th-century building. mid-Nov–Jan & Tue
Make reservations for the special Local favourite reconstructed The dining room may be
Saturday market lunch. with a touch of the exotic. Offers unimpressive, but this is one
deftly prepared seafood and of the best places in St-Malo
RENNES: Léon Le Cochon € idyllic views of the St-Malo bay. for scallops, lobster and grills.
Bistro Map E3
Rue du Pré Botté, 35000 ST-MALO: Au Coin Malouin € ST-MÉLOIR-DES-ONDES:
Tel (02) 99 79 37 54 Bistro Map E1 Tirel Guérin €€€
A convivial city-centre institution, 22 Rue de la Herse, 35400 Fine Dining Map E2
this bistro offers a variety of pork Tel 09 54 41 02 25 Closed lunch, Gare de la Gouesnière, 35350
and tasty egg preparations. Good- Sun & Mon Tel (02) 99 89 10 46 Closed Sat &
value lunch menus. Book ahead. A good option for grilled meats, Sun dinner, Mon; mid-Dec–mid-Jan
salads and enormous ham burgers. Michelin-starred for over
RENNES: La Fontaine Try the cheesecake for dessert. 30 years, serving exceptional
aux Perles €€ Quirky decor and fun vibe. seafood creations with hints
Fine Dining Map E3 of spices, saffron and truffles.
96 Rue de la Poterie, 35200 ST-MALO: La Coquille d’Œuf € Also offers seating in a
Tel (02) 99 53 90 90 Closed Sun Bistro Map E1 garden terrace.
dinner, Mon; Tue in Aug Rue de la Corne-de-Cerf, 35400
Set in a beautiful garden, this is Tel (02) 99 40 92 62 Closed Oct–
worth seeking out for the excep- Mar: dinner only
tional quality of its cooking. Every Popular for its intimate Côtes d’Armor
dish, especially the decadent atmosphere and the excellent
desserts, pleases the taste buds. cooking: highly original dishes DINAN: Crêperie Ahna €
at moderate prices. Only 18 Crêperie Map E2
ST-GRÉGOIRE: Le Saison €€ covers, so book in advance. 7 Rue de la Poissonnerie, 22100
Fine Dining Map E3 Tel (02) 96 39 09 13 Closed Sun;
1 Impasse du Vieux Bourg, 35760 ST-MALO: Le Tournesol € Mar, Nov
Tel (02) 99 68 79 35 Closed Mon, Crêperie Map E1 A charming little crêperie in
Sun dinner 4 Rue des Marins, 35400 the heart of the city, offering
A gem of a restaurant, with Tel (02) 99 40 36 23 a good choice of grilled meats,
bright, modern decor and a Bright crêperie near the port, with salads and baked potatoes.
For more information on types of restaurants see page 230
234-243_EW_Brittany.indd 235 11/3/16 12:52 PM

236  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS



















Pleasant harbour views at Le Riva in Paimpol
DINAN: La Mère Pourcel € ÎLE DE BRÉHAT: Le Jardin DK Choice
French Map E2 des Coquettes €
3 Place des Merciers, 22100 Breton Map D1 MÛR DE BRETAGNE:
Tel (02) 96 39 03 80 Closed Tue–Wed Le Bourg, 22870 L’Auberge Grand Maison €€€
in Sep–Jun Tel (02) 96 20 02 19 Closed Jan–Feb Fine Dining Map D2
A half-timbered Dinan landmark Has a wide choice of crêpes and 1 Rue Léon-Le- Cerf, 22530
serving delicious shellfish and traditional dishes, including kig Tel (02) 96 28 51 10 Closed Mon
oysters and grilled steaks as well ha farz (a traditional Breton beef & Sun dinner; 2 weeks in Oct; 2
as duck. Good bargain menus. stew) and sautéed peat-smoked weeks in Feb
lamb. Exotic teas and cakes are The buzz at L’Auberge Grand
DINAN: Le Bistrot de Viaduc € served in the afternoon. Maison is solely due to chef
Bistro Map E2 Christophe Le Fur, and his
22 Rue du Lion-d’Or, Lanvallay, 22100 DK Choice creation of innovative dishes
Tel (02) 96 85 95 00 Closed Sun, that explore tastes and textures.
Mon; late Dec–mid-Jan LANNION: Les Filets Bleus €€ The menu includes a
Classic cuisine served in a bright Seafood Map C1 pannacotta of cauliflower with
dining room with views over Port de Loquémeau, Tredez, tartare of tuna, and veal slow-
Dinan. Favourites include ris de 23000 cooked for eight hours. The
veau, grilled sea bass and foie gras. Tel (02) 96 35 22 26 Closed Mon & chef offers cooking classes on
Sun dinner; Nov–Mar Thursdays and Saturdays.
ERQUY: Relais St-Aubin € Just the place for seafood
Breton Map D1 lovers. Two breezy terraces
Lieu Dit St-Aubin, 22430 have sea views, and a skilled PAIMPOL: Crêperie de l’Abbaye
Tel (02) 96 72 13 22 Closed Sep– chef cooks the local catch de Beauport €
Jun: Mon & Tue; Jul–Aug: Mon; mid- with herbs from the garden. Crêperie Map D1
Jan–mid-Feb; mid-Nov–mid-Dec Also has meat options, along 32 Rue du Beauport, 22500
Atmospheric restaurant in a with a range of exquisite Tel (02) 96 20 80 21 Closed Mon
17th-century granite priory; desserts. Book ahead. Unassuming little crêperie
dishes made with scallops and serving delicious food. Relish
other seafood, escargots and savoury galettes with smoked
lamb are very popular. LANNION: La Ville trout, sausages or scallops.
Blanche €€
ERQUY: Restaurant l’Escurial €€ Fine Dining Map C1 PAIMPOL: Le Riva €
Fine Dining Map D1 Lieu-dit Ville-Blanche, Rospez Italian Map D1
21 Blvd de la Mer, 22430 Tel (02) 96 37 04 28 Closed Sep– 33 Quai Morand, 22500
Tel (02) 96 72 31 56 Closed winter: Jun: Sun dinner, Mon, Wed; Jul–Aug: Tel (02) 96 20 43 08 Closed Wed
Mon, Thu & Sun dinner; Jan Sun dinner, Mon; Jan Lovely views of the bay to
Chic dining room with panoramic Friendly Michelin-starred accompany delicious pizza
views of the port. The innovative restaurant renowned for its and pasta. There is also a
menu includes dishes such as subtle, artistic way of preparing special mussels menu.
lobster salad and lamb confit. seafood dishes. Good Loire wines. Excellent value weekday
lunch formule.
FRÉHEL: Le Victorine € LOGUIVY-DE-LA-MER: Au Grand
Seafood Map E1 Large € PAIMPOL: La Vieille Tour €€
Place de Chambly, 22240 Seafood Map D1 Breton Map D1
Tel (02) 96 41 55 55 Closed Sep– 5 Rue de la Jetée, 22620 13 Rue de l’Eglise, 22500
Jun: Sun dinner, Mon; mid-Oct–mid- Tel (02) 96 20 90 18 Closed Mon; Tel (02) 96 20 83 18 Closed Sep–
Nov; mid-Feb–Mar Jan; mid-Nov–mid-Dec Jun: Mon, Wed & Sun dinner; Jul–
This popular village restaurant A local favourite for its no-frills Aug: Mon; mid-Jun–early Jul; mid-
boasts great cooking, generous seafood dishes served in a Nov–early Dec
seafood platters, and interesting charming setting overlooking This bright and welcoming
local cheeses. Book ahead. the fishing boats. eatery offers good-value lunch
Key to Price Guide see page 234
234-243_EW_Brittany.indd 236 11/3/16 12:52 PM

WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK  237

menus. The sophisticated local PLÉRIN: La Vieille Tour €€ ST-BRIEUC: Youpala Bistrot €€
cuisine features hearty beef and Fine Dining Map D2 Bistro Map D2
lamb dishes, and plenty of seafood. 75 Rue de la Tour, Port du Légué, 22190 5 Rue Palasne de Champeaux, 22000
Tel (02) 96 33 10 30 Closed Mon, Tel (02) 96 94 50 74 Closed Sun
PENVÉNAN: Le Crustacé € Sun, Sat lunch; mid-Aug–mid-Sep; & Mon; 1 week in Mar & 2 weeks in Jul
Seafood Map C1 2 weeks in Feb Michelin-starred cuisine prepared
2 Rue de la Poste, 22710 Stylish restaurant with imagi- by innovative chef Jean-Marie
Tel (02) 96 92 67 46 Closed Wed, native dishes such as scallops à la Baudic. Dishes are based on
Sun dinner plancha with mushrooms and fresh, seasonal ingredients.
Located in a pretty fishing village, foie gras with rhubarb and
this unpretentious restaurant is prunes. Good value set menus. ST-QUAY-PORTRIEUX: Fleur de
popular for its new twists on Blé Noir €
traditional favourites. Save room ST-BRIEUC: Bistrot du Port € Crêperie Map D1
for the mouth-watering desserts. Bistro Map D2 9 Rue du Commandant-Malbert, 22410
15 Rue des Trois-Frères-Le-Goff, 22000 Tel (02) 96 70 31 55 Closed Sep–
PERROS-GUIREC: Tel (02) 96 33 83 03 Closed Sun Jun: Wed & Thu; Jan
La Crémaillère €€ Long-established local favourite, Exotic savoury crêpes and galettes
French Map C1 with 1970s decor. Savour dishes made with meat or seafood. Try
13 Place de l’Eglise, 22700 of fresh lobster and scal lops, and the fried andouillette and ham,
Tel (02) 96 23 22 08 Closed Mon don’t miss the tasty fish soup. scallops or the smoked salmon.
lunch, Wed
Set in an intimate 17th-century ST-BRIEUC: Crêperie des TRÉBEURDEN: Le Manoir
building with a convivial Promenades € de Lan Kerellec €€€
atmosphere. Go for the roasted Crêperie Map D2 Fine Dining Map C1
king prawns, veal sweetbreads 18 Rue des Promenades, 22000 Allée Centrale de Lan Kerellec, 22560
cooked with sesame seeds, or Tel (02) 96 33 23 65 Closed Mon– Tel (02) 96 15 00 00 Closed Mon–
the salad of prawns and smoked Sat dinner, Fri & Sat lunch Wed lunch
magret (duck breast). Gourmet crêperie specializing in Dining room with a ship’s hull
local and organic products. Serves ceiling and sea views. Enjoy Breton
PERROS-GUIREC: Le Suroît €€ both savoury and sweet crêpes. favourites made with a modern
Seafood Map C1 Book ahead for the kig ha farz. touch, such as the foie gras with
81 Rue Ernest-Renan, 22700 coffee and dried fruit chutney.
Tel (02) 96 23 23 83 Closed Mon, ST-BRIEUC: La Croix Blanche €€
Sun dinner Fine Dining Map D2 TRÉGASTEL: Auberge de la
Visit this harbourfront eatery for 61 Rue de Genève-Cesson, 22000 Vieille Eglise €€
delicious fish dishes. The seafood Tel (02) 96 33 16 97 Closed Sun Breton Map D2
couscous and pasta, skate, dinner, Mon; 3 weeks in Feb & Aug Place de l’Eglise, 22730
foie gras and crayfish salad This elegant house in a pretty Tel (02) 96 23 88 31 Closed Sun
are house favorites. garden setting offers delec table dinner, Mon
dishes such as carpaccio of Located in a quiet village,
DK Choice scallops with a calamondin Auberge de la Vieille Eglise
offers superb steaks and
sorbet, and duck served with a
PLÉLO: Au Char à Bancs € marmelade of Muscat grapes. seafood, including some
Breton Map D2 delicious lobster dishes.
Moulin de la Ville-Geffroy, 22170 ST-BRIEUC: Restaurant aux
Tel (02) 96 74 13 63 Closed Jul– Pesked €€ TRÉGUIER: Des Trois Rivières €€
Aug: Tue; Apr–Jun & Sep: open Fri Fine Dining Map D2 Fine Dining Map C1
dinner, Sat, Sun lunch; Oct–Mar: 59 Rue de Légué, 22000 Port de Plaisance, 22220
open Sat dinner & Sun lunch only Tel (02) 96 33 34 65 Closed Mon, Tel (02) 96 92 97 00 Closed Oct–
Welcoming family farmhouse Sat lunch, Sun dinner May: Mon; Jan–mid-Feb
inn with a restaurant in an Sit out on the terrace with lovely Part of the Hôtel Aigue Marine,
ancient mill. The traditional views over Gouët Valley and enjoy this Michelin-starred restaurant
potée (smoked pork and vege- the highly reputed seafood in this is known for its contemporary
table stew) is simmered on an Michelin-starred restaurant. approach to Breton seafood.
open fireplace, and is made
with ingredients from the
farm or sourced locally. There
are also delicious crêpes and
galettes on the menu. Has pony
rides and a playground for the
kids. Reserve a table in advance.
PLÉNEUF VAL-ANDRÉ:
Au Biniou €
French Map D1
121 Rue Clémenceau, 22370
Tel (02) 96 72 24 35 Closed Tue &
Wed (except Jul–Aug); Feb
Near a casino and the beach,
this restaurant celebrates local
seafood with a delightful,
modern blending of flavours. Crêpes with raspberries and fresh fruit
For more information on types of restaurants see page 231
234-243_EW_Brittany.indd 237 11/3/16 12:52 PM

238  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

ÎLE DE BATZ: Crêperie La
Northern Finistère Cassonade €
Crêperie Map B1
BREST: O’Zinc € Le Débarcardère, 29253
Bistro Map B2 Tel (02) 98 61 75 25 Closed Oct–Mar
48 Rue de Lyon, 29200 Located on a pretty terrace,
Tel (02) 98 43 08 52 Closed Mon; Tue this crêperie serves a wide sel-
& Wed dinner ection of dishes, from mussels
Quirky bistro with industrial decor. and chips (made from organic
A daily tour of the market dictates potatoes) to buckwheat crêpes.
the chalk-board specials. The short
menu lists original dishes such as ÎLE DE OUESSANT:
rabbit stuffed with goat’s cheese. Ty Korn €€
Seafood Map A2
BREST: L’Imaginaire €€ Lampaul village centre, 29217
Contemporary French Map B2 Tel (02) 98 48 87 33 Closed Sun
23 Rue Fautras, 29200 & Mon; 2 weeks in Nov & Jan
Tel (02) 98 43 30 13 Closed Mon; Cosy restaurant with delicious
2 weeks in Jan and fresh seafood on offer. Serves
A chic setting and an open superb sea bass, langoustines and
kitchen, where you can watch fish soup. Live music in the pub. Catfish with crust of black bread and Yuzu
the acclaimed chef cook up Hollandaise at Patrick Jeffroy, Carantec
unusual takes on foie gras. LAMPAUL-GUIMILIAU:
Hostellerie des Enclos € LE CONQUET: Auberge de
DK Choice Breton Map B2 Kéringar Map A2 €
Breton
Rue de Saint-Jacques, 29400
BREST: Le M €€€ Tel (02) 98 68 77 08 Lochrist, 29217
Fine Dining Map B2 Choose from a range of delectable Tel (02) 98 89 09 59 Closed Sep–
22 Rue Commandant-Drogou, regional dishes and fish specialties. Jun: Mon–Thu
29200 Don’t miss the pigeon marinated Hearty traditional dishes in a
Tel (02) 98 47 90 00 Closed Mon, in Lampaul honey or Morlaix Breton farmhouse. Try their kig ha
Sun scallops with cider vinaigrette. fars on Wednesdays and Saturdays
Surrounded by flower-filled and cotriade (fish stew) on Fridays.
gardens, this elegant 1930s LAMPAUL-PLOUARZEL: Auberge
granite manor house serves de Vieux Puits €€ LOCQUIREC: Le Grand Hôtel
refined and inventive cuisine. Breton Map A2 des Bains €€
Try the tasty ravioli filled with Place de l’Eglise, 29810 Seafood Map C1
spider crab or the lamb cooked Tel (02) 98 84 09 13 Closed Sun 15 bis Rue de l’Eglise, 29241
in a gingerbread crust. Decadent dinner, Mon Tel (02) 98 67 41 02 Closed lunch
desserts and a superb wine list. Elegant restaurant popular for Early 20th-century building with
the chef’s delicious variations views of the gardens and the sea.
on Brittany’s freshest ingredients – The classic cuisine focuses on
DK Choice scallops, oysters, strawberries ocean fare and organic produce.
and more.
CARANTEC: Restaurant MORLAIX: Atipik Bilig €
Patrick Jeffroy €€€ LANNILIS: Les Oliviers €€ Crêperie Map C1
Fine Dining Map B1 French Map B1 1 Rue Ange-de-Guernisac, 29600
20 Rue Kélénn, 29660 6 Rue Carellou, 29870 Tel (02) 98 63 38 63 Closed Sep–
Tel (02) 98 67 00 47 Closed Mon, Tel (02) 98 04 19 94 Closed Tue; mid-Jul: Sun & Mon
Tue Mon dinner, Sat lunch Set in a 16th-century house,
Patrick Jeffroy, one of Brittany’s Smart little restaurant run by this eatery serves inventive
top chefs, creates culinary mar- a young couple., featuring a mix crêpes filled with foie gras,
vels that match the magnificent of Breton cuisine and flavours pinenuts, crushed pistachios
bay views at thisMichelin- of the Mediterranean. and even a pepper jam.
starred restaurant. Expect the
best Breton ingredients, notably
shell fish, prepared with surprising
flourishes from the Far East.
Complemented by a superb
wine list. Reservations essential.
GUIMILIAU: Ar Chupen €
Crêperie Map B2
43 Rue de Calvaire, 29400
Tel (02) 98 68 73 63 Closed summer:
Mon dinner; winter: Mon–Fri dinner,
Sat lunch
In a renovated farmhouse; serves
traditional galettes as well as
fish soup, salads and stuffed
artichokes. Good choice for
families and vegetarians. Le Grand Hôtel des Bains in Locquirec is set in a 20th-century building
Key to Price Guide see page 234
234-243_EW_Brittany.indd 238 11/3/16 12:52 PM

WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK  239

MORLAIX: Le Viaduc €
French Map C1
3 Rampe St-Mélaine, 29600
Tel (02) 98 63 24 21 Closed Sep–
Jun: Sun dinner, Mon
Charming restaurant in one of
Morlaix’s oldest houses where
locals feast on superb traditional
seafood as well as meat dishes.
PLOUDALMÉZEAU-PORTSALL:
Le Caïman €
Seafood Map A1
44 Rue du Port, 29830
Tel (02) 98 48 69 77 Closed Mon;
2 weeks in Mar
Tropical decor, a lively atmosphere
and a terrace on the water’s edge
make this a great place to enjoy
grilled seafood or stuffed mussels.
The contemporary dining area at La Butte
PLOUGASTEL-DAOULAS:
Le Chevalier de l’Auberlac’h € ST-POL-DE-LÉON: La Pomme CLÉDEN-CAP SIZUN: L’Etrave €€
French Map B2 d’Api €€ Seafood Map A2
5 Rue Mathurin-Thomas, 29470 Fine Dining Map B1 Route de la Pointe-du-Van, 29770
Tel (02) 98 40 54 56 Closed Mon 49 Rue Verderel, 29250 Tel (02) 98 70 66 87 Closed Tue &
Dine on tasty traditional meat Tel (02) 98 69 04 36 Closed Sep–Jun: Wed; Oct–Apr
and fish dishes, such as fish Mon Gorgeous sea views and a
choucroute and coq au vin, Gastronomic cuisine prepared short menu of simple, flavourful
indoors or out on the pretty with a Mediterranean touch in food to remember. The creamy
terrace at this restaurant. this mid-16th-century house. lobsters are a must try.
The rack of lamb cooked in a
PLOUIDER: La Butte €€ herb and pistachio nut crust is CONCARNEAU: Le Buccin €
Fine Dining Map B1 superb. Good-value lunch menus Seafood Map B3
10 Rue de la Mer, 29260 are available. 1 Rue Duguay-Trouin, 29900
Tel (02) 98 25 40 54 Closed Mon & Tel (02) 98 50 54 22 Closed Mon
Tue, Sat lunch ST-THÉGONNEC: Auberge de Enjoy seafood specialities and
Stunning sea views and fresh, St-Thégonnec €€ meat dishes in this family-friendly
imaginative Breton fare. The pan- French Map B1 place with a relaxed ambience.
fried foie gras with tsukudani jelly 6 Place de la Mairie, 29410 Good-value fixed-price menus.
is exquisite. Vegetarian options. Tel (02) 98 79 61 18 Closed Sun,
Mon & Sat lunch CONCARNEAU: Le Petit
ROSCOFF: Le Surcouf € Traditional dining room offering Chaperon Rouge €
Seafood Map B1 original takes on classic dishes Crêperie Map B3
14 Rue Amiral-Révellière, 29680 such as a cassoulet of turbot 7 Place Du Guesclin, 29900
Tel (02) 98 69 71 89 Closed Wed with chorizo and fillet steak with Tel (02) 98 60 53 32 Closed Sun
The fixed-price menu features a pumpkin and grape purée. & Mon
well-prepared food made using Great desserts. Themed on the story of Little Red
local coastal produce as well as Riding Hood, this place has been
Roscoff’s famous pink onions. decorated with wicker baskets
and checked tablecloths. Don't
ROSCOFF: Southern Finistère miss the la Blandette (goat’s
L’Ecume des Jours €€ cheese, spinach and ham).
Seafood Map B1 AUDIERNE:
Quai d’Auxerre, 29680 Le Goyen €€ CROZON: Le Mutin Gourmand €
Tel (02) 98 61 22 83 Closed Wed; Seafood Map A2 Breton Map B2
mid-Dec–Jan Place Jean-Simon, 29770 Place de l’Eglise, 29160
Regional dishes with an exotic Tel (02) 98 70 08 88 Closed Jan– Tel (02) 98 27 06 51 Closed Sun
touch – try roast monkfish with Mar dinner, Mon; 2 weeks in Mar
asparagus, sweet potato and Cheerful dining room facing the Popular eatery serving beautifully
lobster sauce. One of the dining sea, serving lobster and seafood cooked Breton seafood, lamb and
rooms has very nice sea views. prepared in exotic ways. Save artichokes with spices and cocoa
room for the delicious desserts. from San Tomé in Africa.
ROSCOFF: Le Yachtman €€€
Fine Dining Map B1 CARHAIX-PLOUGUER: Auberge DOUARNENEZ: Au Gouter
Blvd Ste-Barbe, 29680 de Poher €€ Breton €
Tel (02) 98 69 70 78 Closed Mon; Breton Map C2 Crêperie Map B2
mid-Nov–mid-Mar Port de Carhaix, 29270 36 Rue Jean-Jaurès, 29100
Seasonal cuisine served in an Tel (02) 98 99 51 18 Closed Sun– Tel (02) 98 92 02 74 Closed Sun & Mon
elegant setting. Dishes such as Wed dinner In business since 1951, Au Gouter
mixed shellfish with a wakame Simple, hearty cuisine, including Breton offers superb crêpes with
and raspberry chutney are a must. many traditional Breton dishes both sweet and savoury fillings,
Impressive desserts and wine list. rarely seen on restaurant menus. and a range of ciders.
For more information on types of restaurants see page 230
234-243_EW_Brittany.indd 239 11/3/16 12:52 PM

240  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

DOUARNENEZ: Clos de
Vallombeuse €€
Fine Dining Map B2
7 Rue d’Estienne-d’Orves, 29100
Tel (02) 98 92 63 64 Closed Mon
Elegant restaurant with wood-
panelled walls, parquet floors
and a pretty garden. Serves
classic gourmet cuisine.
Good-value set menus.
FOUESNANT: Belle Vue €€
Seafood Map B3
30 Descente de Belle-Vue, 29170
Tel (02) 98 56 00 33 Closed Mon &
Tue; Nov–Mar
Lovely sea views with great
food to match. The menu The stylish dining room at L’Ambroisie in Quimper
features dishes made with the
region’s beef, pork, seafood, DK Choice PONT-AVEN: Le Moulin de
potatoes and cider. Try the Rosmadec €€€
langoustine ravioli served in PLEYBEN: Crêperie de Fine Dining Map B3
a lemongrass broth, or the l’Enclos € Venelle de Rosmadec, 29930
Forêt-Fouesnant oysters. Crêperie Map B2 Tel (02) 98 06 00 22 Closed Sun
52 Place Charles-de-Gaulle, 29190 dinner, Mon; mid-Nov–mid-Dec,
FOUESNANT: La Pointe-du- Tel (02) 98 26 38 68 Closed 2 3 weeks Feb
Cap-Coz €€ weeks in Mar, May & Jun; mid- Delightful, restored 15th-century
French Map B3 Nov–early Jan mill serving Frédéric Sébilleau’s
153 Ave de la Pointe-du-Cap-Coz, Frontrunner for Brittany’s finest gourmet classics with a focus
29170 gourmet crêperie, offering gastro- on seafood. The grilled lobster
Tel (02) 98 56 01 63 Closed Mon nomic options diners would not with two butters is wonderful.
& Tue lunch, Wed; Jan–mid-Feb; find elsewhere – scrambled eggs
1 week in Nov with truffles, Breton tripe and QUIMPER: La Nova €
The kitchen at this restaurant is led cider vinegar, and a sweet filling French Map B3
by a third-generation family chef of warm apple and honey. Come 33 Rue Aristide-Briand, 29000
who prepares tasty seafood dishes on Thursday nights in July and Tel (02) 98 64 42 58 Closed Sun
with extreme care. Don’t miss August for the fest-noz. Chic decor and outdoor seating
the shellfish ragout or the home- on a terrace. Serves Breton
made foie gras. and traditional French dishes.
PLOMODIERN: Auberge des Delightful home-made desserts.
LA FÔRET FOUESNANT: Auberge Glazicks €€€
St-Laurent € Contemporary French Map B2 QUIMPER: Bistrot Quai €€
French Map B3 7 Rue de la Plage, 29550 Bistro Map B3
6 Rue Beg Ménez, 29940 Tel (02) 98 81 52 32 Closed Mon & 1 Quai Neuf, 29000
Tel (02) 98 56 98 07 Closed Mon Tue; Sun dinner; 2 weeks in Mar & Nov Tel (02) 98 55 04 71 Closed Sat lunch,
Traditional Breton auberge in the Original culinary creations that Sun–Wed dinner
countryside offering delicious showcase the finest local Relish traditional brasserie fare –
roast Guilvinec langoustines with ingredients. The young chef andouille with mustard sauce,
pineapple crumble. Sit out in the Olivier Bellin, who has been called mackerel meunière – in this chic
lovely garden or on the terrace. one of Brittany’s best, has been bistro restaurant on the quay.
awarded two Michelin stars.
€€
DK Choice PONT-AVEN: La Talisman € QUIMPER: L’Ambroisie Map B3
Breton
MOËLAN-SUR-MER: Le Crêperie Map B3 49 Rue Elie-Fréron, 29000
Raphaël €€ 4 Rue Paul-Sérusier, 29930 Tel (02) 98 95 00 02 Closed Sun
Seafood Map C3 Tel (02) 98 06 02 58 Closed Mon dinner, Mon
Rue des Moulins, 29350 An old local favourite, La Talisman Contemporary Breton cuisine
Tel (02) 98 96 52 52 Closed Dec– has been using the same recipes served in a stylish dining room.
Feb since 1920. Try the four cheeses The menu changes regularly but
A pretty place to enjoy lunch or Galette Talisman with onions expect dishes such as duck
in summer. This hotel-restaurant and buckwheat. roasted in cider and monkfish in a
combines an enchanting spicy crust. Scrumptious desserts.
pas toral setting in a former PONT-AVEN: La Taupinière €€€
mill and park with refined Seafood Map B3 QUIMPERLÉ: Ty Gwechall €
contemporary cuisine. There Croissant Saint-André, 29930 Crêperie Map C3
are special lobster, langoustine Tel (02) 98 06 03 12 Closed Mon 4 Rue Mellec, 29300
and shellfish menus; others are & Tue; mid-Sep–mid-Oct Tel (02) 98 96 30 63 Closed Sun
more varied. Go for the grilled Housed in a charming thatched dinner, Mon, 2 weeks in Jan & Feb
lobster with wakame butter, cottage, this restaurant has Atmospheric crêperie in a 1670s
and the Breton pudding with several ways of preparing the stone house. The menu features
layers of chocolate and speciality, Concarneau langous- 150 choices of crêpes, to be
mascarpone for dessert. tines. Great seasonal desserts. enjoyed with local beers and
Offers cookery courses. ciders and live Celtic music.
Key to Price Guide see page 234
234-243_EW_Brittany.indd 240 11/3/16 12:52 PM

WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK  241

QUIMPERLÉ: Le Bistrot BADEN: Hôtel Restaurant DK Choice
de la Tour €€ Gavrinis €€
Bistro Map C3 Breton Map D3 BILLIERS: Domaine de
2 Rue Domaine-Morice, 29300 1 Rue de I'Île-Gavrinis, 56870 Rochevilaine €€€
Tel (02) 98 39 29 58 Closed Sun & Tel (02) 97 57 00 82 Closed Sat Seafood Map D4
Mon lunch, Sun dinner, Mon; 1 week in Nov On the Pointe de Pen-Lan-Sud,
This upmarket bistro is known Comfortable hotel-restaurant 56190
for quality seasonal cuisine and featuring gourmet Breton cuisine. Tel (02) 97 41 61 61
a choice of over 600 wines The best locally sourced ingredi- Seafood lovers across France
from the Loire and Rhône Valley. ents, from blue lobster to spinach, arrive at this rocky promontory
is what the menu is based on. The to indulge in chef Maxime
RIEC-SUR-BÉLON: bread is home-made. Nouail’s luxurious, imaginative
Chez Jacky €€ and carefully prepared seafood
Seafood Map C3 BELLE-ÎLE-EN-MER: Roz Avel €€ dishes. His pièce de résistance
Port du Bélon, 29340 Seafood Map C4 is the Breton lobster in four
Tel (02) 98 06 90 32 Closed Mon; Rue du Lt Riou, Sauzon, 56630 different courses, and he also
Oct–Easter Tel (02) 97 31 61 48 Closed Wed; offers a menu which changes
Part of an oyster farm, this mid-Nov–mid-Dec, Jan–mid-Mar daily according to the day’s catch.
cheerful eatery is full of Intimate restaurant with excellent Superb desserts and wines.
nautical decor. Serves tasty value menus. The set menus
hot and cold crustaceans, feature dishes such as roast
from oysters to lobster. langoustines and sea bass served CARNAC: Chez Marie €
with green asparagus capers and Crêperie Map C4
ROSNOEN: Ferme Auberge du preserved lemon. 3 Place de l'Eglise, 56340
Seillou € Tel (02) 97 52 07 93 Closed Mon &
Breton Map A2 BELLE-ÎLE-EN-MER: Tue
On the D791, 5 km (3 miles) from Castel Clara €€€ Founded in 1959, this is Carnac’s
Faou, 29580 Fine Dining Map C4 oldest crêperie. Exceptional
Tel (02) 98 81 92 21 Closed Mon; Port-Goulphar, Bangor, 56360 crêpes, including the smoked
mid-Sep–mid-Oct Tel (02) 97 31 84 21 Closed mid- salmon “Nordique’”, are served
Delightful farm restaurant serving Nov–mid-Dec in a welcoming wood and
dishes made with home-grown Contemporary design, impressive stone dining room.
beef, chicken and pork. Their kig views of the cliffs and beautifully
ha fars is famous. The cider is also prepared meals are the main CARNAC: La Calypso €€
home-made. Book ahead. draws here. The menu focuses on Seafood Map C4
locally sourced seafood, Breton Anse du Pô, 56340
STE-ANNE-DE-LA-PALUD: Hôtel lamb and organic produce. Tel (02) 97 52 06 14 Closed Mon;
de la Plage €€€ Dec–Jan
Fine Dining Map B2 BIGNAN: Auberge La Simple, delectable seafood starters
Beach road, 29550 Chouannière €€ followed by fish, lobster or steaks
Tel (02) 98 92 50 12 Closed Nov– Breton Map D3 grilled over an open fire are
Easter 6 Rue Georges-Cadoudal, 56500 irresist ible attractions. Book ahead.
Excellent choice for colourful, Tel (02) 97 60 00 96 Closed Mon,
refined culinary combinations. Tue–Thu dinner, Sun dinner CARNAC: La Côte €€
There is plenty of seafood, Authentic auberge serving French Map C4
Limousin beef and vegetables. exquisite takes on Breton classics Kermario, 56340
Lovely sea views. such as sole served with tonka Tel (02) 97 52 02 80 Closed Mon,
bean and wild garlic sauce, in a Tue lunch, Sun dinner; Jan
Louis XVI-style dining room. Diners flock to this charming
old farmhouse in a garden to
Morbihan savour seasonal dishes prepared
with flair and imagination. The
ARRADON: Les Vénètes €€€ weekday menu is good value.
Seafood Map D3
9 Rue Carrière, 56610 DK Choice
Tel (02) 97 44 85 85 Closed Sun
dinner HENNEBONT: Château de
Splendid views of the Golfe du Locguénolé €€€
Morbihan and delectable dishes Fine Dining Map C3
of freshly caught seafood as Route de Port-Louis, 56700
well as other local ingredients. Tel (02) 97 76 76 76
This 19th-century château
AURAY: La Closerie features an elegant, classic
de Kerdrain €€ dining room complete with
French Map D3 tapestries and chandeliers. The
20 Rue Louis-Billet, 56400 cuisine of Michelin-starred chef
Tel (02) 97 56 61 27 Closed Mon, Olivier Beurné is equally regal,
Sun dinner featuring the best seasonal
Four elegant dining rooms are ingredients (seafood, veal, and
supplied by an enthusiastic and lamb), divine desserts and entic-
expert chef. Mouth-watering ing wines. There is also a terrace
delicacies are flavoured with The lovely Hôtel de la Plage in in a wooded waterside park.
home-grown herbs and flowers. Ste-Anne-de-la-Palud
For more information on types of restaurants see page 231
234-243_EW_Brittany.indd 241 11/3/16 12:52 PM

242  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

ÎLE AUX MOINES: Les Embruns € LORIENT: L’Amphitryon €€€ QUIBERON: La Chaumine €€
Seafood Map D4 Fine Dining Map C3 Seafood Map C4
Rue Commerce, 56780 127 Rue du Colonel-Müller, 56100 79 Rue de Port Haliguen, 56170
Tel (02) 97 26 30 86 Closed Wed Tel (02) 97 83 34 04 Closed Sun, Tel (02) 97 50 17 67 Closed Sun
(except during French school Mon; first 2 weeks in May, Nov dinner, Mon, Tue lunch; mid-Nov–
holidays); first 2 weeks in Oct; Feb Led by the master-chef Jean-Paul mid-Mar
A delightful bar-restaurant Abadie, L’Amphitryon offers delect- Convivial, family-run inn featuring
known for unpretentious dishes able dishes that retain a purity of the catch of the day and seafood
based on the island’s oysters, flavour. Specialities include slow- platters. The set menus are great
crabs and fish. The menu cooked bass with vanilla. value. Booking essential.
includes meat dishes too.
PONTIVY: La Pommeraie €€ QUIBERON: Le Verger de
ÎLE DE GROIX: Les Alizés € French Map D3 la Mer €€
Seafood Map C3 17 Quai du Couvent, 56300 Breton Map C4
8 Rue du Géneral-de-Gaulle, 56590 Tel (02) 97 25 60 09 Closed Sun–Tue Boulevard Goulvars, 56170
Tel (02) 97 86 89 64 Closed varies dinner, Sat lunch Tel (02) 97 50 29 12 Closed Tue &
seasonally; phone ahead The talented chef uses locally Wed; Feb
Les Alizés features simple decor sourced seasonal ingredients The seasonal menu at this eatery
and dishes written up on a to create delicious dishes. Try is inspired by the cuisine of the
chalk board menu, reflecting the the roast lamb sweetbreads. Armor and Argoat regions. Try the
primary focus on the day’s catch. terrine of foie gras, lobster and fig.
PORT-LOUIS: Avel Vor €€€
JOSSELIN: La Marine € Seafood Map C3 LA ROCHE-BERNARD: L’Auberge
Crêperie Map D3 25 Rue de Locmalo, 56290 Bretonne €€
8 Rue du Canal, 56120 Tel (02) 97 82 47 59 Closed Mon & Tue, French Map E4
Tel (02) 97 22 21 98 Closed Mon Sun dinner 2 Place Du Guesclin, 56130
Located on a canal, this restaurant Delicious, ambitious cuisine Tel (02) 99 90 60 28 Closed Sun, Mon
has a pretty terrace with chateau based on local produce and the Sit at a garden patio and savour a
vistas. Serves delicious crêpes freshest ingredients from the seafood platter or dishes such as
with a choice of seasonal fillings. port – which is where this con- roasted prawns with saffron.
temporary dining room is located.
JOSSELIN: La Table d’O €€ ST-PHILIBERT: Chez Jaouen €
French Map D3 PORT-NAVALO: Seafood Map D3
9 Rue Glatinier, 56120 Le Grand Largue €€ Jaouen Antoine, 56470
Tel (02) 97 70 61 39 Closed Sep–Jun: Seafood Map D4 Tel (02) 97 30 00 24 Closed dinner
Mon dinner, Wed dinner, Sun; 1 week 1 Rue du Phare, 56640 Sun–Fri; Nov–Mar
in Jun; 2 weeks in Nov Tel (02) 97 53 71 58 Closed Mon Situated at an aquaculture
Enjoy superb valley views from This first-floor restaurant on the old station, this place serves shellfish
the windows and terrace while harbour has superb views. Order at communal tables in a con-
you dine at this eatery. The menu a super-fresh seafood platter, or verted boat shed. There is also
is limited but the dishes are the all-lobster menu. There is an an all-you-can-eat lunch buffet.
creative. Excellent desserts. oyster bar below, Le P’tit Zèph.
ST-AVÉ: Le Pressoir €€€
LORIENT: La Rozelle € QUIBERON: Le Ty Retro € French Map D3
Crêperie Map C3 Crêperie Map C4 7 Rue de l’Hôpital, 56890
7 Rue du Maréchal-Foch, 56100 12 Place du Repos, 56170 Tel (02) 97 60 87 63 Closed Mon
Tel (02) 97 64 41 74 Closed Sun in Tel (02) 97 59 25 43 Closed Wed Seasonal, Michelin-starred
Sep–Jun Friendly, pretty dining room and cuisine full of delicious flavours
Named after the wooden tool terrace offering Quiberon’s finest with a touch of the exotic.
used to spread the crêpe batter, crêpes and galettes, stuffed with Interesting wine list.
this little restaurant serves home-made fillings. Reservations are essential.
superb light buckwheat
crêpes accompanied by cider.
DK Choice
LORIENT: Le Jardin
Gourmand €€
Breton Map C3
46 Rue Jules-Simon, 56100
Tel (02) 97 64 17 24 Closed Mon
& Tue, Sun dinner
Run by a young, enthusiastic
team, this delightful contem-
porary eatery offers classic
as well as modern Breton
dishes. Vegetarian choices and
a local cheese board are also
available. The wine list
comprises over 200 French
wines. Ask for a table on the
pretty garden terrace.
Pretty garden views at the delightful Le Jardin Gourmand, Lorient
Key to Price Guide see page 234

234-243_EW_Brittany.indd 242 11/3/16 12:52 PM

WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK  243

TRINITÉ-SUR-MER:
L’Azimut €€
French Map C4
1 Rue du Men-Du, 56470
Tel (02) 97 55 71 88 Closed Tue,
Wed; 2 weeks in Mar
The port-facing L’Azimut serves
lovely gourmet fare featuring a
mix of both traditional and
modern dishes. There’s a good
value lunch formule. Try the
line-caught sole with a carrot
mousse and black cardamom-
infused sauce.
VANNES: Karpa €
International Map D3
28 Rue du Port, 56000
Tel (02) 97 47 48 34 The elegant dining area at Manoir de la Boulaie, set in a historic Breton manor
In an old timbered house with
chic and casual decor, Karpa GUÉRANDE: Roc-Maria € NANTES: Crêperie Heb Ken €
offers a wide variety of pizza, Crêperie Map D4 Crêperie Map F4
pasta, salads and burgers. 1 Rue Vieux-Marché-aux-Grains, 44350 5 Rue de Guérande, 44000
Tel (02) 40 24 90 51 Closed 3 weeks Tel (02) 40 48 79 03 Closed Sun;
VANNES: in Nov; 2 weeks in Jan 2 weeks in Aug
Le Roscanvec €€ Friendly crêperie in a 15th-century A popular eatery ever since
French Map D3 building with an open fireplace. it opened way back in 1976,
17 Rue des Halles, 56000 Renowned for its savoury buck- serving a wide choice of mouth-
Tel (02) 97 47 15 96 Closed Sun wheat galettes filled with seafood. watering crêpes and savoury
dinner, Mon & Tue galettes in a cheerful setting.
Enjoy some of Vannes’ best DK Choice
gourmet food prepared by a NANTES: La Cocotte €€
young, dynamic team of chefs. HAUTE-GOULAINE: Manoir de French Map F4
Try the foie gras with morel la Boulaie €€€ 27 Rue Foure, 44000
mushroom ravioli or let the Fine Dining Map F4 Tel (02) 40 84 12 44 Closed Mon & Sun
chef devise your menu. 33 Rue de la Chapelle Saint- An attractive conversion of a
Martin, 44115 former butcher’s shop, with
VANNES: Les Remparts €€ Tel (02) 40 06 15 91 Closed Mon, a menu devoted to gourmet
Bistro Map D3 Wed & Sun dinner; 2 weeks in Aug dishes based on organic-reared
6 Rue Alexandre-le-Pontois, 56000 Wonderful combination of chef poultry, such as chicken, duck,
Tel (02) 97 47 52 44 Closed Sat Laurent Saudeau’s exquisite, pigeon and quail, as well as eggs.
lunch, Sun & Mon inventive cuisine, served in an
This bistro offers seasonal elegant, historic Breton manor. NANTES: L’Atlantide €€€
menus based on fresh regional The finest local ingredients are Fine Dining Map F4
ingredi ents, including organic artistically transformed into 5 Rue de l’Hermitage, 44000
produce. Wines are served by delectable dishes, from duck in Tel (02) 40 73 23 23 Closed Sun
the glass. a miso crust to scallops roasted Dining room with superb
with pistachio nuts with celery vistas of Nantes from the Butte
smoked over vine cuttings. Sainte Anne. The Michelin-starred
Great wines to match. Book cuisine by chef Jean-Yves
Loire-Atlantique well in advance. Guého never fails to impress.
Remarkable wine list.
ANCENIS:
La Charbonnière € LA BAULE: Le Billot € PORNIC: Beau Rivage €€
Seafood Map F4 Bistro Map D4 Seafood Map E5
La Charbonnière, 44150 17 Allée des Pétrels, 44500 Plage de la Birochère, 44210
Tel (02) 40 83 25 17 Closed Jun–Sep: Tel (02) 40 60 00 00 Closed Sun & Tel (02) 40 82 03 08 Closed Mon & Tue
Mon; Oct–May: Sun dinner, Mon Mon; 2 weeks in Aug Seafront restaurant serving
Feast on gourmet specialities Lively bistro offering a wide- the best of each season and
such as pike-perch with butter ranging menu specializing in region – seafood from Guilvinec
sauce and pigeon breast with succulent grilled meats. Excellent and Croisic, Challans duckling
Ratte potatoes on a sheltered wine list to accompany the dishes. and Noirmoutier potatoes.
veranda overlooking the Loire.
LE CROISIC: Le Neptune € ST-JOACHIM: La Mare
CLISSON: La Bonne Auberge €€ Seafood Map D4 aux Oiseaux €€€
French Map F5 11 Ave de Port-Val Fine Dining Map E4
1 Rue Olivier-de-Clisson, 44190 Tel (02) 40 23 02 59 Closed Mon & 223 Rue du Chef-de-Île-de-Fédrun
Tel (02) 40 54 01 90 Closed Mon, Tue; Jan–Mar Tel (02) 40 88 53 01 Closed 3 weeks
Tue, Wed & Sun dinner; 2 weeks in Aug Classic seafood restaurant with in Jan
Warm, inviting auberge with a nautical decor and lovely ocean Imaginative cuisine based on
pretty garden, offering superb, views. Seafood platters, fish soup, marshland and sea ingredients
deli cious takes on classics such as and traditional Nantais desserts such as eel, duck, sardines, crab,
turbot with lobster Great desserts. are the house specialties. wild mint and edible seaweed.
For more information on types of restaurants see page 230
234-243_EW_Brittany.indd 243 11/3/16 12:52 PM

244  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

SHOPS AND MARKETS

From the stalls laid out on a Saturday in cheeses, cider and charcuterie – is to be
Vitré to the great covered market in found. There are also many fascinating
Plouescat, Brittany’s weekly food markets shops to be explored, offering other Breton
are key events in the region’s gastronomic goods, among the most distinctive being
life. It is here that the best and freshest striped sailors’ sweaters, Quimper faience
local produce – crisp young veg etables, and craft items, such as ship models, with
glistening seafood, farm-produced a marine theme.


the 1980s. The Cornouaille Château de Belon. Fish and
region produces an excellent seafood can also be bought
cider, which has an AOP from wholesalers and from
classification. Robust and with fish farms (viviers), such as
an orange hue, it goes very those in Audierne, Camaret
well with seafood. and Roscoff. Although
Some producers, such as wholesale prices fluctuate,
Fisselier and Dassonville, they are always sure to be
also offer a wide range of lower than retail prices.
liqueurs made from strawberries The best kinds of oysters
and other suitable kinds of are Nacre des Abers and
fruit, as well as coffee liqueurs Morlaix­Penzé, which have a
made with cider brandy, sweet taste; Aven­Belon,
chouchenn, a mead made which are crisp and sweet;
with cider and honey, Cancale, firm with a nutty
pommeaux (sparkling aftertaste; Paimpolaise,
Artichokes, sold in every market apple wines) and Breton salty with a flavour of
in Brittany whisky. There is also the sea; and the plump
lambig, made by distilling Ria d’Étel.
Markets
cider brandy and ideal Easier to take home
The regular weekly markets for lobster flambé. are sardines, mackerel
are the major outlet for local There were once 75 fillets, slices of tuna
pro duce and local, or even breweries in Brittany, and, and traditionally cured
family, specialities. But they following a decline, there sprats, which are
are not the only choice. To has been a resur gence of canned in factories,
promote their own produce, small independent such as Gonidec, on
certain growers have set up breweries since 1985. The the south coast of
small farmers’ markets on their beers that they produce Brittany. Guérande salt,
own farm premises, where – such as Coreff, a pale Coreff beer jars of samphire and
they sell goat’s cheese, ale, Blanche Hermine and seaweed products are
buttermilk and other produce Telenn Du, a wheat beer – easily also good buys. With 800
from local farms. equal more famous brands. different varieties, the coast
There are farmers’ markets in of Finistère is one of the largest
Ploubazlanec, Plestin les Grèves, Produce of the Sea seaweed­growing areas in the
Lannion and St Brieuc. Circuits world. The benefits of seaweed
gourmands (gastronomic tours) Fresh fish auctions are held in are many and varied. Thalado,
are organized by local produ­ many harbours all along the for example, makes seaweed
cers in an initiative to promote coast of Brittany. If the bath salts, soap, tonic lotions
local delicacies. Organic food idea of attending one and nutritional supplements.
markets are also becoming does not appeal, there The boutique Mer et
popular. A list of all these are alternatives. Oysters Saveurs in Le Guilvinec
markets and the addresses of can be bought at specializes in fresh
the relevant producers are oyster farms, such edible seaweeds
available from tourist offices. as that at the grown locally.

Local Drinks
Thanks to a small group of
cider­makers, such as Éric
Baron, who use traditional
methods, cider has undergone
a revival in popularity since Oysters on a stall in Vivier-sur-Mer




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SHOPS AND M ARKE T S  245

Sailors’ Clothing
In most harbours there is a
fishermen’s cooperative where
traditional sailors’ clothing,
labelled “Made in Breizh” is on
sale. This ranges from thick
pullovers, indigo-and-cream
striped sweaters and smocks,
to waxed jackets and seamen’s
watch jackets with double
waterproof collars. Perfectly
suited for sailing and for fishing
trips, these tough, weatherproof
clothes are derived from
traditional Breton clothing.
The kabig, a jacket made of
heavy cloth, evolved from the
kab an aod that Breton
seaweed-gatherers once wore.
The best-known brands of Retail outlet of the Faïencerie Henriot in Quimper
seamen’s clothing are Captain
Corsaire, Bonneterie d’Armor Handicrafts in the villages around Pont-
(Armor Lux) and Guy Cotten, Colourful Quimper Faience Scorff, 7 km (4 miles) from
the leading manufacturer of (see pp170–1), particularly that Lorient, and in St-Méloir,
clothes for professional seamen. produced by the Faïencerie 17 km (10 miles) from
Henriot, is without doubt Dol-de-Bretagne.
Brittany’s best known hand- Browsing in shops selling
crafted product. The Île de marine antiques may also turn
Bréhat is also renowned for up some interesting finds, as
its glassware and Pont-l’Abbé may a visit to woodworkers
for its embroidered linen and such as Thierry Morel in
lace, such as that offered for Plouvien, Frères Douirin in
sale in Le Minor. Plozévet, and Francis Tirot
There are also craftsmen’s in Fougères, all of whom
workshops that are open make wooden ship models.
to the public in Brasparts Most shops are open from
Stall selling Kouign amann, the traditional (see p147), in Locronan (see 9am to 12:30pm and 2:30 to
Breton cake p158), in Guérande (see p206), 7pm, Monday to Saturday.
DIRECTORY
Regional Éric Baron Viviers de Roscoff Guy Cotten
Specialities Kervéguen, Guimaec. Pointe Ste-Barbe, Pont Minaouët,
Tel (02) 98 67 50 02. Roscoff.
Fédération Régionale Tel (02) 98 61 19 61. Trégunc.
des Pays Touristiques Fisselier Tel (02) 98 97 66 79.
de Bretagne 56 Rue du Verger, Rennes- Clothes & ∑ guycotten.com
Rue Jean-Claude-Jégat, Chantepie. Handicrafts
Pontivy. Tel (02) 99 41 00 00. Bonneterie d’Armor Le Minor
Tel (02) 97 51 46 16. Gonidec 21–3 Rue Louison-Bobet, 3 Quai St-Laurent,
Provides booklets of 2 Rue Henri-Fabre, Quimper (head office). Pont-l’Abbé.
recommended cafés, Concarneau. Tel (02) 98 90 05 29. Tel (02) 98 87 07 22.
crêperies and restaurants. Tel (02) 98 97 07 09.
Faïencerie Thierry Morel
Château de Belon Mer et Saveurs H-B Henriot 183 Rue Emile-Salaun,
On the right bank of the 11 Rue Général de 16 Rue Haute, Quartier Plouvien.
river, Riec-sur-Bélon. Gaulle, Le Guilvinec. de Locmaria, Quimper.
Tel (02) 98 06 90 58. Tel (02) 99 98 85 90. Tel (02) 98 52 22 52. Tel (02) 98 40 99 24.
Dassonville Thalado Frères Douirin Francis Tirot
Pen-ar-Ros, Plouegat- Quai d’Auxerre 29680, 9 Impasse de la 21 Rue de St Germain,
Moysan. Roscoff. Poste, Plozevet. Romagné.
Tel (02) 98 79 21 25. Tel (02) 98 29 22 95. Tel (02) 98 91 42 04. Tel (02) 99 98 85 90.





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246  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

What to Buy in Brittany

Brittany projects a distinctive image. This is reflected
in the seamen’s striped sweaters and yellow oilskins
and the pretty Quimper faience that are the staple
of so many souvenir shops. But there is, in fact, far more
to Breton craftsmanship than this. Not only are there countless
delicacies – butter made in the churn, local pâtisserie,
cooked meats and traditionally made cider – but also many
high-quality items with a marine theme. Ranging from
seaweed balm to antique sextants and sailors’ chests, Handmade toy boat
these are redolent of the high seas and, of course, of
Brittany itself.

Souvenirs
In the most popular coastal resorts, a little
discrimination is sometimes needed to
distinguish good-quality pieces from cheap
souvenirs. It is best to choose locally made
items, or to look round old chandlers’ shops.
CDs of traditional Breton songs are another
reliable buy.



Nautilus shells make
The sailor’s almanac, attractive ornaments and,
giving the times of like other souvenirs with a
Pipe tides, is an essential marine theme, they bring
accessory for anglers a taste of the sea to
and yachting any décor.
enthusiasts.

Plaster figures of a
Breton couple, sold in
many local shops.

Lighthouse Bowl Breton pennant
Faience
Continuing a tradition established in the
17th century (see pp170–1), Quimper’s faience
factories produce wares in a range of shapes,
decorated with patterns such as petit breton and
à bords jaune, painted in various colours.
Quimper faience tray


Quimper faience,
like this colourful plate
Quimper faience salt cellar with floral border,
and pepper pot is decorated
entirely freehand,
without the use of
Faience pitcher transfers. Good-
decorated with quality pieces are
a classic Quimper signed by
floral pattern. the decorator.




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SHOPS AND M ARKE T S  247


Clothes
Sturdy and weather-resistant, traditional sailors’ clothing
conjures up images of the open sea and ocean spray. With
the rise in popularity of sailing and water sports, it has become
essential wear both for yachting enthusiasts and for casually
chic town-dwellers.







Seaman’s woolly hat,
ideal for keeping out a
sea fret. Kabig, a hooded jacket made of
heavy waterproofed cloth.
Sailors’ sweaters
Sweets and Biscuits
Among Breton specialities are many kinds of sweets and biscuits, some
owing their distinctive taste to Brittany’s excellent butter. These treats include
pancakes (packaged in foil), butter toffees, butter biscuits, especially petits-
beurre made in Nantes, and berlingots, handmade sweets also from Nantes.
Traou Mad,
butter biscuits, Butter toffees
made in
Pont-Aven


Berlingots
are twisted
sweets made Box of Leroux toffees
by traditional
methods.
Alcoholic Drinks
Brittany is renowned for its
ciders and liqueurs, including fleur
de caramel liqueur and fraise de
Plougastel, a strawberry liqueur.
Tins of coloured berlingots, made in Nantes

Skincare Products
A wide range of skincare products, including
seaweed-based cosmetics and creams made with
extracts of oyster, are on sale in thalassotherapy
centres all along the coasts of Brittany.









Traditional Fraise de
Phytomer for skincare Bath salts Breton cider Fleur de caramel Plougastel




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248  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

ENTERTAINMENT


Bretons are fond of festivals and art galleries and other cultural centres.
celebrations, and they are also Those who do not wish to spend all their
enthusiastic communicators. Music, time on the beach will find more than
film and cartoon festivals, as well as enough to entertain them at the many
live performances, take place all over venues and events throughout the
Brittany throughout the year. The region region. For details of local festivals, see
also has a great variety of museums, Brittany Through the Year (see pp34–7).

General Information Music Theatre
The regional newspapers The passionate enthusiasm Besides the high-quality
and magazines (see p263) are that Bretons have for music programme of plays performed
the best source of information (see pp28–9) goes back to by the Théâtre National de
regarding festivals and other their ancient roots. Many solo Bretagne in Rennes, theatre
events (see pp34–7). Lists of musicians and groups who in Brittany comes to the fore
upcoming events are also began their careers in Brittany at the annual Festival Tombées
available from the Comité have gone on to achieve much de la Nuit (see p34), which
Régional du Tourisme, for wider fame. In this respect, Ubu, takes place in the city in July.
the whole of Brittany, the arts centre in Rennes, stands Other theatres with dynamic
and the relevant Comité out for its policy of promoting programmes are in Nantes
Départemental, for each region avant-garde musicians. and Brest.
of Brittany. Local tourist offices Brittany also hosts many
are another convenient source major music festivals. Among
of information. the greatest is the Festival Cinema
des Vieilles Charrues in Carhaix Several annual film festivals
(see p35), the Route du Rock take place in Brittany. Estab-
Buying Tickets in St-Malo (see p35), the lished over ten years ago, the
Tickets for shows and festivals Rencontres Trans Musicales in Festival du Film Britannique
for which there is an admission Rennes (see p37), the Flambée in Dinard (see p36) shows feature
charge are usually available Musicales in Fougères (see p37), films and organizes retrospec-
direct from the organizers of and the Festival Art Rock in tives. Prominent people from
the event. Shops run by FNAC St-Brieuc (see p34). For jazz the world of film, including
(Fédération Nationale d’Art et enthusiasts there is the Festival actors, directors, producers
de Culture), which can be du Jazz in Vannes (see p35). and distributors, attend.
found in large towns, also Traditional Breton music Travelling, a week-long
have ticket offices. is celebrated at the Festival film festival that takes place
It is worth bearing in mind Interceltique in Lorient (see p35), in Rennes in early February,
that most major events usually which draws 4,500 performers highlights the work of film-
draw very large crowds, and and 450,000 spectators each makers from a particular city,
it may be necessary to book year. The focus of the Festival such as London, Berlin or
your tickets several months de Cornouaille in Quimper is Istanbul. This is an opportunity to
in advance. world music. see some unusual productions.

















Dancers at the Rencontres Transmusicales in Rennes




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