DK Eyewitness Travel Malaysia _ Singapore 2016

EYEWITNESS TRAVEL

MALAYSIA

& SINGAPORE

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EYEWITNESS TRAVEL

malaysia &
singapore



EYEWITNESS TRAVEL

MALAYSIA &
SINGAPORE

Contents

Figure of temple guardian, Tua Pek Kong
Temple, Sibu, Sarawak

Introducing
Malaysia and

Singapore

Discovering
Malaysia and Singapore

10
Putting Malaysia
and Singapore

on the Map
18

A Portrait
of Malaysia
and Singapore

22
The History
of Malaysia
and Singapore

38

Interior of the Inverted Dome Pavilion,
Islamic Arts Museum, Kuala Lumpur

Malaysia Region
By Region

Introducing Malaysia 54

Kuala Lumpur 62

Northwest Peninsula 92

Southern Boats and jet-skis off the beaches of Batu Ferringhi
Peninsula 122
Entertainment in Entertainment in
Eastern and Central Singapore 258 Malaysia 308
Peninsula 138
Outdoor Activities in Outdoor Activities in
Sarawak 156 Singapore Malaysia 312
262
Sabah 180 Survival Guide
Singapore Street Finder
264 Practical
Information 320
Travelers’ Needs
Travel
Where to Stay Information 330
276
General Index 340
Where to Eat
and Drink 284 Acknowledgments 351

Chinese ceramic vase at the National Shopping in Malaysia 302 Phrase Book 354
Museum, Kuala Lumpur

Singapore Area
By Area

Introducing Singapore
204

The Colonial Core
and Chinatown

212

Little India
and Orchard

Road 230

Farther Afield
242

Shopping in Singapore The grand Raffles Hotel in Singapore
252

6 HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE

HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE

This guide helps you get the most from your and important sights described using
visit to Malaysia and Singapore. It provides visuals and maps. Information about
detailed practical information and expert hotels, restaurants, shops and markets,
recommendations. Introducing Malaysia and entertainment and outdoor activities is
Singapore maps the countries, sets them in found in Travelers’ Needs. The Survival
their historical and cultural context, and Guide has tips on everything from
describes events throughout the year. Each making a telephone call to using
region has its own chapter, with its history local transportation.

18 INTRODUCING MALAYSIA AND SINGAPORE Hat Yai PUT TING MALAYSIA AND SINGAPORE ON THE MAP 19 Putting Malaysia and
Singapore on the Map
Pattani
The orientation maps show
Putting Peninsular PATTANI Sai Buri Peninsular Malaysia, Borneo,
and Singpore, in relation to their
Malaysia on the Map SATUN Bukit Kayu South China Sea NEPAL BHUTAN CHINA neighboring countries. In this
Hitam Yala book, Malaysia is divided into
Bordered by Thailand to the north and Pulau TAIWAN six main regions that are each
connected to Singapore in the south by a Langkawi PERLIS Narathiwat covered in a full chapter.
Singapore has its own chapter,
Kuala THAILAND INDIA MYANMAR which is further split into
Perlis the key sightseeing areas.
Jitra Tumpat
NARATHIWAT BANGLADESH LAOS A locator map shows
the country in relation to
Pasir Mas Kota Bharu VIETNAM PHILIPPINES other countries.

causeway and a bridge, Peninsular Malaysia THAILAND

occupies the extreme south of mainland Southeast Kuala Kedah CAMBODIA
Alor Star

Asia, lying between 2 and 7 degrees north of the Equator. KEDAH YALA Ketareh Pasir Perhentian BRUNEI
Puteh Islands M A L AY S I A
Off the west coast is the Strait of Malacca, while the east SRI LANKA
SINGAPORE
coast looks out onto the South China Sea. The Betong Kuala Besut Pulau
majority of Malaysia’s 29 million inhabitants live on INDONESIA
the peninsula, heavily concentrated on the west Macang Redang

Sungai Jeli
Petani

Banding Tasik Kuala Kerai Merang
Grik Temengor
coast, which includes the capital, Kuala Lumpur. A
mountainous ridge runs down the center of the Butterworth
Georgetown
NORTH-SOU
peninsula, separating the densely forested and Penang TH Selama Lawin Kemubu Kuala Terengganu
sparsely populated east coast from the west. Lake Kenering Bertam
Marang
Padang Gerus Berang

Bagan Serai HWY PERAK KELANTAN Tasik Kenyir Rantau Abang

Gua Musang TERENGGANU

Key Taiping Kuala Kangsar Dungun Pulau Tenggol

Highway Merapoh
Major road
Ipoh Kerteh

Railroad Batu Gajah Brinchang M A L AY S I A
International border
State border Pulau Kampar Jelai Kuala Lipis Tekai Kijal
Pangkor Cukai

Tapah

Bidor Kuala Tembeling Cherating

Teluk Jerantut PAHANG Beserah
Intan Raub Kuantan
Sabak
0 kilometers 50
0 miles Sekincan
50 Bentong Maran
Kuala Selangor Karak Temerloh Pahang
Kapar Pekan

Pulau SELANGOR
Klang
Kuala
Lumpur

Peninsular Malaysia and Malaysian Borneo Klang Petaling NEGERI Kota Bahagia Muadzam
Jaya SEMBILAN Bahau Shah
Pulau Tioman
Panting RompinKuala Rompin

Gulf of South China Sea Kuala
Thailand Seremban Pilah

SABAH Tampin Gemas Segamat Seribuat
Labis Archipelago
Strait MALAYSIA Port
of Bandar Seri Dickson Mersing
BRUNEI Begawan
Malacca .Lenik
Alor Gajah Jasin Tangkak ongSember
Strait Jemaluang Pulau Tinggi
MALACCA Pulau Sibu
Kuala Lumpur Malacca Kahang
SINGAPORE
SARAWAK JOHOR

o f Muar Keluang

see page 20–21 M alacca Air Hitam

Borneo Teluklecan Layang- Mawai
Kota Tinggi
Batu NORT Layang
Pahat
INDONESIA H-SOUTH HWY
Kulai
Dumai

Sumatra 0 km 300 Pulau Bengkalis Johor
Bahru
Pontian Kecil

0 miles 300

Duri Kukup Singapore

INDONESIA Pulau Kukup SINGAPORE

For keys to symbols see back flap

Malaysia Region 1 Introduction MALAYSIA REGION BY REGION 93
by Region The landscape, history,
and character of each NORTHWEST PENINSULA
Each region has a map at region are described
the start of the section. The here, including an The northwestern states of Malaysia are among the most
key to the symbols is on the account of how they geographically diverse and historically significant in the country.
back flap. have changed over the The landscape encompasses everything from coastal plains and
centuries and what lushly forested mountains to jutting limestone cliffs and pristine
Sights at a Glance lists the they have to offer to islands. A long legacy of immigrants and rulers, attracted by the
chapter’s sights by category, such the visitor today. region’s strategic geographical position and its natural wealth,
as Towns and Cities, Areas of has bequeathed a fascinating mix of cultures.
Natural Beauty, Islands and
Beaches, and Parks and Preserves. Archaeological remains found at the influx of Chinese immigrants. As a result

2 Regional Map coastal site of Lembah Bujang provide of these varied early influences and
This map shows the
road network and gives evidence of a Hindu-Buddhist kingdom economic developments, the Northwest
an overview of the topo-
graphy of the entire region. that dates back to the 4th century AD. Peninsula is more cosmopolitan and less
All the sights are numbered
and there are also useful tips In the 7th and 8th centuries, the region culturally conservative than other parts
on getting around by plane,
train, boat, and car. was ruled by the Srivijaya empire and of Malaysia. It is also one of the most

later by Siam (now Thailand), while the developed and populous regions in the

15th century saw the rise of the Sultanate country, comprising not only ethnic

of Malacca. With the beginning of the Malays, Chinese, and Indians, but also

17th century, a power struggle ensued indigenous groups such as the Orang

between colonial powers in the area Asli and the Orang Syam in the interior

until the British finally gained control. jungles and far north. The old royal capital

By the mid-19th century, the growing of Kuala Kangsar and the vibrant, historic,

importance of tin mining in the states and culturally diverse city of Georgetown

of Perak and Selangor brought with it in Penang are on the itinerary of most

far-reaching economic, political, and visitors to the Northwest Peninsula. More

social repercussions. It fueled Malaysia’s laid-back tourists head for the region’s

124 MALAYSIA REGION BY REGION tremendous economic rise in tSheO U T H E R N pPriEstNinIeNbSeUacLhAes o r th1e2 s5oothing environs
20th century and also attracted a huge of its tea plantations and cool hill stations.

Exploring the Southern Peninsula Key

Bounded on the west by one of the world’s busiest shipping Highway
Major road
lanes, the Strait of Malacca, on the east by the open South China Minor road
Railroad
Sea, and on the south by the island city-state of Singapore, the International border
State border
Southern Peninsula offers everything from bustling cities to Peak

great tracts of jungle, lazy seaside resorts, and deserted islands.

The top draw is historic Melaka, home to some of Malaysia’s best

museums, most varied cuisine, and earliest European buildings.

The beautiful old palace, Istana Lama, in Sri Menanti is a prime

example of Minangkabau craftsmanship, while Seremban, the

capital of Negeri Sembilan, makes the ideal base Inside the royal throne room at
Istana Lama, Sri Menanti
for exploring the state. Johor’s main Bentong
attractions are its beach resorts and the Temerloh

beautiful islands of the Seribuat

Archipelago off the east coast. 0 kilometers 40
0 miles
Mancis 40

Sights at a Glance Kuala Lumpur Paradong Simpang Swaying palms and pure white sand on Desaru Beach
1 Seremban Pertang The palm-fringed white sands of Pantai Cenang Beach, Langkawi
2 Sri Menanti Kuala
3 Kuala Pilah Kelawang Ayer Hitam Kuantan The ornate tiered pagoda of the Kek Lok Si Temple in Penang Tekek
4 Melaka pp128–33 Mantin Kuantan Juara
5 Muar Pantai Bahau
6 Kukup
7 Johor Bahru SEREMBAN SRI KUALA PILAH
8 Desaru Beach Cuah MENANTI
9 Mersing PULAU TIOMAN
NEGERI Padang Endau Pulau
Islands Pianggu Seribuat
SEMBILAN Gemas Buloh Pulau
0 Seribuat Archipelago Kasap Endau Kayu Papan SERIBUAT Pemangil
q Pulau Tioman pp136–7 ARCHIPELAGO
Port Dickson Pekan Jabi Gunung Tiong a
Pengkalan Tampin Segamat 3,327 ft Pulau Sea
Kempas
Labis Besar

Tanjung Tuan Alor Gajah MERSINGMersing Chin
Kahang Pulau
Masjid MELAKA Jasin JOHOR Seri Pantai outh
Tanah
Tangkak ng S
NORTH-SOUTH HIGHWAY Lenga Sembero
Muar Jemaluang Tinggi

Pagoh Lenik Paloh Pulau
Sibu
MELAKA Tanjung
Leman

Pulau Besar Sungai
Stra Rambai
MUAR Gunung Belumut
Parit Jawa Keluang 3,314 ft

i t Air Hitam Sedili Besar

of Batu Pahat Renggan

M a Semarah Simpang Layang-Layang Mawai
ca Ranggarn
l a Lombong Sedili Kecil

c Senggarang NORTH-SOUTH Johor Laut
Rengit Benut DESARU
Getting Around Kelapa Kulai Kota Tinggi
Sawit
A train line runs between Kuala Lumpur and Senai Teluk
Johor Bahru, and then on to Singapore. Seremban HIGHWAY Sengat
lies at the end of the KTM line from the capital.
However, the quickest and easiest way of getting JOHOR Lintang BEACH
around the region is by car or bus and there are BAHRU Belungkor
regular services between all the main urban Pontian Kecil
centers. Smaller towns, such as Kukup, are best
reached by taxi while Pulau Tioman can be Gelang
reached by ferry from Mersing.
Patah Pengerang

Pekan Panerok

Pulau KUKUP
Kukup

The colorful façade of Christ Church, Melaka For keys to symbols see back flap
For hotels and restaurants see pp279–80 and pp294–5

HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE 7

214 SINGAPORE AREA BY AREA THE COLONIAL CORE AND CHINATOWN 215

3 Street-by-Street Map Street-by-Street: Around The Padang LITTLE INDIA AND
This gives a bird’s-eye the Padang This field has hosted cricket ORCHARD ROAD
view of interesting and since the 1830s. Today, sporting
important parts of each The heart of Singapore’s colonial district is the Padang, THE COLONIAL
sightseeing area in Kuala or square, which was once used by the 19th-century events such as the Rugby CORE AND
Lumpur and Singapore. The colonials as a site for big sporting events as well as Sevens are held here. CHINATOWN
numbering of the sights National Day parades. Sporting activities from cricket
ties in with the area map and field hockey to soccer and rugby still take place here To St. Andrew’s Cathedral & Locator Map
and the fuller description on a weekly basis. The square is flanked by grand Neo- Raffles City See Street Finder map 5
of the entries on the pages Classical buildings such as the former Supreme Court
that follow. and City Hall (now revamped as the National Gallery 6. National S T. A N D R E W’ S
Singapore), the Parliament House, and the exclusive Gallery Singapore ROAD
Stars indicate the sights that no Singapore Cricket Club. Also of interest here is Esplanade The gallery occupies
visitor should miss. Park, which lies on the eastern side of the Padang. One imposing former
of the oldest parks in Singapore, it is home to many civic buildings.
Numbers refer to each historical landmarks.
sight’s position on the Key
area map and its place in Suggested route
the chapter.
0 meters 100
0 yards 100

PARLIAM CONNAUGHT Esplanade Park
ENT DRIVE
PLACE
4. Victoria Theater and Concert Hall OLD
Built in 1862, the Victoria Theater was originally the Town Hall. PARLIAM Q
The Victoria Memorial Hall was added in 1905 to commemorate ENT UEEN
the death of Queen Victoria. Its name was later changed to LANE ELIZABETH
the Victoria Concert Hall W
ALK
Asian Civilisations Lim Bo Seng Memorial
Museum This structure is a tribute
to Chinese war hero
Raffles’ Landing Lim Bo Seng who worked
Site with British covert forces
until he was caught and
To the Boat tortured to death by
Quay Japanese forces in 1944.

5 Old Parliament House D
Constructed in 1827, this A
building was originally RO
commissioned as a N
private residence for a LLERTO
Scottish merchant, FU
John Argyle Maxwell. To Merlion
To Raffles Place Park Singapore Cricket Club
The Time Capsule Memorial Obelisk Built around 1884, the club is a distinctive,
Located in front of Empress Place, a small
pyramid houses a time capsule prepared Cavenagh Bridge squat building with dark green bamboo
shutters. This members-only club was
in 1990 to mark the 25th anniversary of
Singapore’s independence. originally intended exclusively for expatriates.

For hotels and restaurants see pp282–3 and pp299–300

A suggested route takes in some
of the fascinating and attractive
streets in the area.

164 MALAYSIA REGION BY REGION SARAWAK 165 4 Detailed Information
All the major cities, towns, and
2 Sungai 5 Sarawak Cultural Rainforest World Music Festival tourist attractions are described
Santubong Village individually. They are listed in an
In August each year, Sarawak Cultural Village hosts this festival, which order that follows the numbering
12 miles (20 km) N of Kuching. 21 miles (35 km) N of Kuching. Tel on the area map at the start
@ tour bus to Santubong jetty. (082) 846-411. @ tour bus and Petra celebrates music from around the world. This 3-day event, which has of the section.
g tour boats between 4 and 5pm. Jaya bus 2B, 15. Open 9am– 5:15pm
8 from Kuching. daily; cultural shows at 11:30am and been held every year since 1998, previously featured musicians from as Story boxes provide information
4pm daily. & 0 = _ Harvest about historical or cultural topics
Festival (May), Rainforest World Music far away as Mali, Mongolia, and Madagascar. The festival now also relating to the sights.
Festival (Jul). ∑ scv.com.my
provides a rare opportunity to hear The visitors’ checklist gives all the
Located at the foot of Gunung practical information needed to
Santubong, Sarawak Cultural indigenous musicians from various plan your visit.
Village serves as an excellent
After meandering through the introduction to the cultural regions of Malaysia. Seminars and
traditions of Sarawak. Erected
plains around Kuching, Sungai by the Sarawak Development workshops are held during the day,
Corporation in the early 1990s
Santubong flows through to give visitors a taste of indig- spontaneous jam sessions take place
enous lifestyles, the village
Sarawak into the South China comprises seven houses in the longhouses, and artistes
clustered around a lake, each
Sea. During the dry season, a good example of the trad- perform on outdoor stages in the
itional dwellings built by the
between March and October, main indigenous groups. evenings. The exotic setting around a
Iban, Bidayuh, and Orang Ulu
groups of the rare Irrawaddy longhouses sit side by side lake against the backdrop of Gunung
with a Melanau tall-house, a
dolphin are sometimes seen Penan hut, a Chinese farm- Santubong makes for an electric
house and a Malay house.
Lagoon-style pool at the Holiday Inn Resort at Damai Beach Women and men of respective atmosphere. Accommodation is
groups live in these dwellings
feeding and playing around the and also demonstrate art available at the resorts on Damai
mouth of the river. These small, 3 Santubong and craft skills, such as wood-
reclining human figure is still carving, textile and basket- Beach, and frequent buses run from
weaving, sword-making,
snub-nosed dolphins are often 19 miles (32 km) N of Kuching. well defined, but many other and beadwork. Outside the Kuching for those who prefer to stay
difficult to spot as they do not * 800. @ Petra Jaya bus 2B. carvings have eroded. Melanau tall-house is a
leap out of the water like their demonstration of a traditional in town. It is advisable to check the
sago press, while the process of
blowpipe-making can be seen official website (www.rwmf.net) for Jerry Kamit, a sape (lute-like
at the Penan hut. Visitors can
seafaring cousins. Nevertheless, This fishing village sits near take part in 3- to 4-day courses information on events. instrument) virtuoso
to learn a particular skill or
the experience of watching Sungai Santubong in the 4 Damai Beach craft. A cultural show featuring
traditional music and dancers
these unusual creatures is a shadow of the 2,657-ft (810-m) 21 miles (35 km) N of Kuching. in elaborate costumes is held Gunung Selang and Gunung
major draw on the popular Gunung Santubong. During the @ Petra Jaya bus 2B. 0 ®  daily at the village’s indoor the- Sendok – form the backdrop to
boat trips. Tang and Sung dynasties, which ater. There is a well-regarded this wildlife haven. Among the
restaurant at the village, too. dipterocarp (hardwood) forests
Some cruises continue down lasted from the 9th century to On the west coast of the and gentle waterfalls and
6 Kubah National streams are more than 90
the adjoining Sungai Salak to the 13th century, Santubong Santubong Peninsula, Damai Park and Matang species of palms and a wide
Wildlife Center variety of orchids. Although
Kuching Wetlands National was an important trading is one of Sarawak’s prettiest there are bearded pigs, mouse
12 miles (20 km) W of Kuching. deer, and other wildlife, these
Park. Covering a vast expanse of center. Today, it is merely a small beaches. Only a short journey Tel (082) 248-088. @ from Kuching. are rarely seen. Visitors are more
Open 8am–5:15pm daily. & ®  likely to spot birds such as the
saline mangrove swamps and village but it is worth visiting for from Kuching, and featuring ∑ sarawakforestry.com maroon woodpecker or the
rufus-collared kingfisher.
patches of scrubland, the the colorful wooden houses some beautifully designed Encompassing 9 sq miles (22 sq
km), Kubah National Park is one Several trails crisscross the
wetlands also include a network built on stilts and fishing boats resorts, the beach is a popular of the smallest and most park and the mountains includ-
accessible parks in Sarawak. A ing the beautiful Waterfall Trail
of small water channels and on the beach, which are very tourist destination and can get sandstone plateau and three that leads through split-level
peaks – the 2,990-ft (911-m) falls and a 2- to 3-hour hike to
tidal creeks. The swamps are photogenic. The morning is the quite crowded on weekends. Gunung Serapi and the smaller the mist-shrouded peak of
Gunung Serapi. Matang Wildlife
inhabited by a variety of wildlife, liveliest time in Santubong There is a wide selection of Center is nearby, but gains
mixed reviews for its care of
including crocodiles, proboscis when the fishermen sell their watersports on offer, including endangered species such as
orangutans, sambar deer,
monkeys, lorises, and colorful daily catch at the quay. The sailing, snorkeling, and wind- hornbills, and proboscis
monkeys. Along the Pitcher Trail
birds. In the evenings, large cafés nearby are well known surfing, as well as other are several varieties of the
carnivorous pitcher plant.
groups of fireflies illuminate the for their excellent seafood. activities such as mountain Accommodation for the parks
may be booked in advance at
riverside trees. River cruises are From the main road into biking and golf. Cafés and the Visitor Information Center in
Kuching (see p161) or online at
the only way to explore the Santubong is a small, easy-to- restaurants here have gained www.ebooking.gov.my.

wetlands, and a number of tour miss turning which leads to a reputation for their superb

operators in Kuching offer trips. Sungai Jaong, one of the most fresh seafood dishes.

important archaeological sites Picturesque trails around

O Kuching Wetlands National in Sarawak. Among its artifacts Gunung Santubong begin here
Park are ancient Buddhist and Hindu and trekking is a popular

9 miles (15 km) N of Kuching. rock carvings, thought to be activity for visitors to Damai
g&8 about 1,000 years old. A Beach. The Santubong Jungle

Trek, with blue trail markers, is

an easy, circular 1-mile (1.6-km)

walk that starts at the Damai

Beach Resort. A more

challenging route that also

begins here is the Gunung

Santubong Summit Trek,

winding up to the top. The

trail, with red markers, takes 5

to 7 hours to complete. It also

requires a good level of fitness, O Matang Wildlife Center
8 miles (13 km) N of Kubah. Tel (082)
sturdy hiking shoes, and 225-012. @ to Kubah or Matang
Polytechnic, then local minibus. &
plenty of drinking water. The -®

resorts at Damai can arrange

Gunung Santubong towering over Sungai Santubong for guides. A Bidayuh woman weaving rattan baskets at the Sarawak Cultural Village

For hotels and restaurants see pp281–2 and pp296–8

Practical information provides 236 SINGAPORE AREA BY AREA LITTLE INDIA AND ORCHARD ROAD 237
everything you need to know to visit
6 Sri Srinivasa Perumal . Mandapam Main Shrine VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
each sight. For Kuala Lumpur and Temple The main mandapam or prayer Here, devotees make offerings of Practical Information
Singapore, there are map references hall has a decorated ceiling that is ghee, flowers, and fruit, to the 397 Serangoon Road. Map 3 E2.
One of the most important religious buildings in Singapore, supported by ornately carved accompaniment of music and Tel 6298-5771. Open 6:30am–
that pinpoint each sight’s location this Hindu temple is devoted to the worship of Lord Vishnu columns. chanting. They also sprinkle their noon & 6–9pm daily. 7 8 on
on Street Finder maps. (also known as Perumal). It is also one of the oldest temples in heads with holy water. request.
Singapore. Built in 1854, the temple was originally a simple Transport
Color tabs refer to the structure with a mandapam, or a prayer hall, and the area q Farrer Park. @ 23, 64, 65, 111,
regions. The same tab is around the temple had many ponds and vegetable gardens. 130, 131, 139, 147, 857.
used for pages relating In 1966, when the temple was consecrated, a six-tiered
to a particular region. gopuram, or entrance tower, was built, funded by one of the . Gopuram
earliest Indian migrants, P. Govindasamy Pillai. The temple is The 60-ft- (20-m-)
5 Major Sights the starting point of the annual Thaipusam festival parade.
Historic buildings are dissected to high entrance
reveal their interiors. Vishnu tower has six tiers
This sculpture of Vishnu
shows him with four sacred of sculptures.
instruments – the conch
shell, club, lotus, and saber.

. Subsidiary Shrines
Several subsidiary shrines are
dedicated to different deities. This
shrine is in honor of Ganesh, the
elephant-headed god who
removes obstacles.

KEY Vimanams
Decorated vimanams, or domes, mark the position of the
1 The inner sanctum is where the temple’s subsidiary shrines.
main idol lies. Only priests can enter.
2 The office provides information
on temple activities.

Thaipusam Festival Devotee carrying an ornately Main Entrance Hanuman
decorated kavadi Statuary stands guard on either This shrine is dedicated to Hanuman,
This Hindu festival begins at dawn at the temple. Male devotees the monkey god. In the Hindu epic, the
enter a trance-like state, carrying ornately decorated kavadis, or steel side of the massive wooden Ramayana, he helps rescue Sita from
arches, attached by metal hooks to their torsos, with skewers pierced door. Devotees ring the bells the demon, Ravana.
through their tongues and cheeks. Devotees take part in this act in
penance for their sins and in honor of Lord Murugan, the god of before entering, asking the
bravery, power, beauty, and virtue. Women carry coconut milk pots, gods to grant their prayers.
also fulfilling vows relating to penance. Accompanied by chanting
and singing, they walk to Sri Thendayuthapani Temple on Tank Road,
about 2 miles (3 km) away.

For hotels and restaurants see p283 and pp300–301



INTRODUCING
MALAYSIA &
SINGAPORE

Discovering Malaysia 10–17
and Singapore 18–21
22–37
Putting Malaysia and 38–51
Singapore on the Map

A Portrait of Malaysia
and Singapore

The History of Malaysia
and Singapore

10 INTRODUCING MALAYSIA AND SINGAPORE

DISCOVERING MALAYSIA
AND SINGAPORE

The tours on the following pages each offer trips that include pre-arranged stays in
a mixture of historical sights and modern longhouses or visits to jungle reserves are
attractions as well as, in most cases, places a very worthwhile option. Four itineraries
of natural beauty such as national parks and focus on Peninsular Malaysia and Singapore,
islands. Though the tours are designed with and three on Borneo; the longest tours last
geographical proximity in mind, Malaysia’s roughly a week. Domestic flights make it
wildlife areas are necessarily rural or remote, feasible to combine many itineraries, and
so may require a half-day road journey (or a Brunei is a possible overland extension to
short flight) to reach. For Borneo, package the Northern Sarawak tour.

PERLIS T H A I L A N D Kota Bharu
Langkawi
The Perhentian
KEDAH Islands

Kuala Besut

Georgetown Kuala
Terengganu
Penang Tasik
Malay Culture and KELANTAN Kenyir
Beaches
PERAK TERENGGANU

• Explore Malay markets and Jelai Taman NegaraT
craft workshops in Kuala National Park
Terengganu, and see ekai
traditional wooden boats
being built and decorated. M A L AY S I A

• Head to the superb white- PA H A N G South China
sand beaches and coral Pahang Sea
reefs of the Perhentian
Islands, renowned for great SELANGOR
diving and snorkeling.
Kuala Lumpur
• Get a feel for traditional
Malay pastimes, including NEGERI
traditional kite-making SEMBILAN
and shadow puppetry, in
busy Kota Bharu. MALACCA JOHOR
Melaka

Strait of Malacca

Singapore

Penang and Langkawi

• Explore Penang’s historic a delightful butterfly 0 kilometres 200
city of Georgetown, farm at the fishing 0 miles 100
packed with old temples, village of Teluk Bahang.
fine museums, and Key
architectural reminders • Enjoy some quality Malay Culture and Beaches
of the colonial past. beach time or enjoy Penang and Langkawi
watersports on the
• Marvel at the huge resort island of Langkawi.
Buddhist temple and Take its cable-car ride
pagoda complex of for spectacular views.
Kek Lok Si.
• Take advantage of Lang-
• Shop for crafts, enjoy kawi’s duty-free status
fresh seafood, and visit with some shopping.

Detail from Nikhrodharam Thai Temple at Alor Star, Northwest Peninsula, Malaysia

DISCOVERING MALAYSIA AND SINGAPORE 11

A Week in Sabah

• Immerse yourself in the looking out for pitcher Gunung Kinabalu, the mighty mountain that lies at the
friendly bustle of Kota plants and slipper heart of the Kinabalu National Park
Kinabalu, with its lively orchids, then soak those
seafront markets. tired muscles at Poring
Hot Springs.
• Book a river trip in the
Klias Wetlands to spot shy • Check out Sandakan’s
proboscis monkeys Chinese temples and
and twinkling fireflies. busy waterfront.

• Try white-water rafting • Support animal rescue
on the Padas River, or work at the sanctuaries
visit the Mari Mari for orangutans and sun
Cultural Village to bears at Sepilok, and
learn about life among spend a night in a
Sabah’s tribes. jungle lodge.

• Walk forest trails in the • See nimble locals
shadow of Malaysia’s climb poles to harvest
highest peak in the raw ingredient for
Kinabalu National Park, birds’-nest soup.

Kinabalu National Park

Kota Kinabalu Sepilok Sandakan
Klias Wetlands
Key Kinabatangan Sega ma
A Week in Sabah Wildlife Sanctuary

Kuching and its Surroundings SABAH Kalabakan

The National Parks of BRUNEI
Northern Sarawak
Miri

Niah Caves Mulu National Park
National Park

South China M A L AY S I A
Sea

Sarawak Bako SARAWAK A Week in Kuching
Cultural Village National Baleh and Its Surroundings
Park
Kuching INDONESIA • Get acquainted with
Borneo’s tribal culture at
Semenggoh the museums of Kuching
Wildlife Centre and the Sarawak Cultural
Village outside the city.
0 kilometers 200
0 miles • Fortify yourself with local
200 rice wine before being
shown a House of Skulls
The National Parks of Northern Sarawak from the head-hunting era.

• See one of nature’s most • Refresh yourself with a • Visit a wildlife rescue center
awesome spectacles, as spot of river-bathing to see orangutans being
millions of bats emerge after a jungle trek. fed, and take a boat trip to
at dusk from the caves spot rare river dolphins.
of Mulu National Park. • Admire the handicrafts
and exotic jungle • Spend a couple of days at
• See ancient rock art, produce brought to the superb Bako National
boat-shaped “death ship” Miri’s markets by Park, with its cute family of
coffins, and spectacular indigenous people. proboscis monkeys and
natural rock formations lovely beaches.
as you go underground • Extend your stay with a
to explore the caves. two-day side trip to • Be a guest at an Iban
fascinating Brunei. longhouse, with an
overnight stay to allow you
to learn more about your
hosts’ traditional way of life.

12 INTRODUCING MALAYSIA AND SINGAPORE

Kuala Lumpur, Taman Massive statue of the Hindu god Lord Day 4: Taman Negara
Negara, and Melaka Muragan at the entrance to the Batu Caves Park staff can offer advice to
help you choose from many
• Duration Five days, with Day 2: Kuala Lumpur and outdoor activities: a jungle trek
two nights spent at Taman Batu Caves on one of the shorter trails,
Negara National Park. Book ahead to enjoy the view climbing, caving, a boat trip, or
from the skybridge between a guided wildlife-spotting tour,
• Airports Fly into and out of Kuala Lumpur’s iconic Petronas perhaps to see elephants or
Kuala Lumpur (KL). Towers (see p78) then see the some spectacular birdlife.
nearby Aquaria KLCC (see p79).
• Getting around Taman Make an afternoon excursion to Day 5: Back to Kuala Lumpur
Negara can be accessed by the Batu Caves (see p96) on the On your return, immerse
car, or by public bus via city’s outskirts. Return for an yourself in city life again with an
Jerantut, but the trip evening stroll around Little evening taking in the sights,
offered by many KL tour India (see p76). sounds, and smells of famous
operators by coach to Kuala food street Jalan Alor (see p76),
Tembeling, then river boat Day 3: Taman Negara or at the glitzy Suria KLCC mall
to Kuala Tahan, is highly Make the journey to Malaysia’s (see p79) at the Petronas Towers.
recommended. In monsoon largest national park, Taman
season (Nov–Mar), it is worth Negara (see pp144–5). Arriving To extend your trip…
checking conditions at at Kuala Tahan in the afternoon, Wildlife-lovers will find a
Taman Negara before travel. the energetic can make for longer stay at Taman
the canopy walkway for an Negara rewarding. Or, if not
Day 1: Kuala Lumpur overview of the stunning intending to see Penang,
Explore around Merdeka surroundings. Or, relax and spend two days in Melaka
Square (see pp66–7), the old sign up for a guided night trek (see pp128–33), with a similar
heart of Kuala Lumpur, with its to see the nocturnal creatures mix of old temples, colonial
colonial and Moorish-style of the rain forest. buildings, and shophouses.
architecture and the Masjid
Jamek (Jamek Mosque) (see Three Days in
p68). For lunch, head for Singapore
bustling Chinatown (see p70),
walking via the Central Market • Arriving The MRT metro
(see p69), now devoted to craft system will whisk you
shops. In the afternoon, head from Changi Airport to
over to the National Museum downtown in 30 minutes.
(see p72) and the adjacent
Perdana Botanical Gardens • Moving on Changi Airport
(see p72) and explore the has excellent connections
delightful Butterfly Park. Try to with many Malaysian cities,
get to the Menara KL tower (see and is also served by express
p80) by late afternoon for fine buses (to Kuala Lumpur by
sunset views over the city from bus takes at least 5 hours).
the top, then pick a restaurant Malaysian trains out of
for dinner in the surrounding Singapore are slow and not
Golden Triangle (see p80). recommended, except for
the sleeper services.

• Book ahead for the Univ-
ersal Studios theme park.

Traditional gateway to Chinatown in Kuala Lumpur Day 1
For practical information on getting around, see pp330–39 Morning Explore Singapore’s
historic old quarters, beginning
with the Colonial Core along
the Singapore River, around the
Padang (see pp214–15) and Fort
Canning Park (see p223). Take
your pick of the museums, such
as the Peranakan Museum (see
p222), Asian Civilisations
Museum (see p216), and grand
National Gallery (see p217).

DISCOVERING MALAYSIA AND SINGAPORE 13

(see p107) and take in other
places of worship such as
Kapitan Keling Mosque (see
p108). Take the tour of the
Cheong Fatt Tze Mansion (see
p111) then perhaps have a look
around the grand old E & O
Hotel (see p111). Visit the giant
Kek Lok Si Temple complex
(see p113) in the afternoon, and
spend the evening atop nearby
Penang Hill (see p113) to see
Georgetown light up at night.

Day 3: Georgetown and

Around

Relaxing on Pantai Cenang, one of Langkawi’s white-sand beaches Head to the Penang National

Park (see p115) for a few hours

Afternoon Head to the most Penang and Langkawi of jungle trekking, or spend the
atmospheric of the old districts, morning at the temples of Wat

Little India, to look around the Chayamangkalaram (see p118)

exuberant Sri Veerama- • Duration Six days, in Pulau Tikus. Then head to

kaliamman Temple (see p235). extendable by spending Teluk Bahang (see p114) for the

Nearby is Kampong Glam (see more time on Langkawi. Penang Butterfly Farm and

pp232–3), the heart of Muslim • Airports Fly into Penang Forest Recreation Park. Relax

life in the city and home to the and out from Langkawi. on the beach at Batu Ferringhi

Masjid Sultan mosque (see • Getting around Ferries sail (see p114) in the late afternoon.
p234). Spend the evening at the between Georgetown and
Gardens by the Bay (see p217). Langkawi; flights are faster. Day 4: Langkawi
Catch a morning ferry or flight

Day 2 • Book ahead Ferry tickets are to Pulau Langkawi (see pp118–

Morning Visit the Singapore best bought a day in advance. 9). Spend the rest of the day

Botanic Gardens (see pp246–7), on Cenang beach, perhaps

including the spectacular indulging in water sports like

National Orchid Garden. Day 1: Georgetown paragliding. Stay on Langkawi.

Explore the colonial center of

Afternoon Explore Chinatown, Georgetown (see pp106–11), Day 5: Langkawi

being sure to see the Buddha including St George’s Church Head up the Langkawi Cable

Tooth Relic Temple (see p225) and Fort Cornwallis. Visit 100 Car (see p121) to Gunung

and Thian Hock Keng Temple Cintra Street in Chinatown (see Machinchang for amazing views

(see p228–9). In the evening, p110) with its Peranakan museum over a forested valley. Drop by

head to Singapore Zoo for its and curio stalls, then explore Pantai Cenang’s Underwater

Night Safari (see p244). the mini-water village of the World aquarium (see p121). In

Weld Quay Clan Piers (see p106). the afternoon, take an island-

Day 3 Dine in Little India (see p108). hopping trip to Pulau Dayang

Thrill-seekers can easily spend Bunting (see p121).

the whole day on Sentosa (see Day 2: Georgetown and

pp250–51), Singapore’s theme Around Day 6: Depart Langkawi

park/resort island, where Explore the best of Penang’s Grab another morning on the

Universal Studios holds pride clan temples, the Khoo Kongsi beach before flying out.

of place. Or, spend the morning

at the gentler Jurong Bird Park

(see p245). From the Bird Park, it’s

a short train journey to the

Chinese folklore theme park of

Haw Par Villa (see p248). Then

take a trip to Sentosa in the

late afternoon to visit Under-

water World and Fort Siloso

(see p250). Have a sundowner at

the beach, then head back

downtown to spend the evening

browsing the high-end shops of

Orchard Road (see pp238–41). The graceful Kapitan Keling mosque in Georgetown

14 INTRODUCING MALAYSIA AND SINGAPORE

Malay Culture and Beautiful 19th-century architecture of the Istana Jahar in Kota Bharu
Beaches
a series of monumental Malay conservative but likeable
• Duration Five days. Keen houses. In the afternoon, visit city with a strong Malay flavor.
wildlife spotters should the few surviving traditional In the center, drop by the
spend an extra night at boatyards at Pulau Duyung (see enjoyable Pasar Besar, a market
Taman Negara. Alternatively, p149), also just outside the packed with colorful fruits
extend the itinerary to a town, where Malay craftsmen and vegetable stalls, and the
week by adding on Melaka. still produce wooden fishing beautiful Istana Jahar (see
Note that the east coast is a boats and sailboats. p152), built as a palace in
seasonal destination: avoid traditional wooden style but
the stormy northeast Days 2 & 3: The Perhentian now a museum of royal
monsoon (Nov–Mar). Islands traditions and customs. Also
Leave in the morning for the visit the Gelanggang Seni
• Airports Fly into Kuala tiny seaside town of Kuala (Cultural Center) (see p153) to
Terengganu and out from Besut to catch a boat to the learn about old-fashioned Malay
Kota Bharu. Perhentian Islands (see p148), pastimes; ask about shadow
the most down-to-earth and puppetry shows in the evening.
• Getting around Hotels and likeable of Malaysia’s resort
tour operators in Kota Bharu islands. They have a wide range Day 5: Kota Bharu
and Kuala Terengganu can of accommodation, although See the city’s craft cottage
arrange transfers to and Perhentian Besar is the better of industries – tourist offices can
from Kuala Besut, where the two islands for more mature provide details of which ones
Perhentian Islands boats travelers or those with families. are currently best to visit –
depart. Water taxis run Take your pick of dive packages including silversmiths
around and between the or hire a snorkel and fins for a producing filigree jewelry, and
islands. A taxi is useful for couple of hours. It’s worth traditional kite-makers. Either
visiting Kota Bharu’s hopping between islands to depart in the afternoon or visit
scattered craft workshops. eat at different restaurants. more museums, such as the
Istana Batu (see p152), a former
• Book ahead Book accomm- Day 4: Kota Bharu palace now used as a museum
odation on the Perhentian Return to the mainland in the of royal paraphernalia, and the
Islands at least ten days in morning and head north to small World War II Memorial
advance if intending to stay Kota Bharu (see pp152–3), a Museum (see p153).
during a local holiday or
school break.

Day 1: Kuala Terengganu
In the center of sleepy Kuala
Terengganu (see p147), see the
Pasar Payang produce market
and the small temples and
boutiques of Chinatown. Head
just outside town to one of
Malaysia’s most architecturally
striking museums, the
Terengganu State Museum
Complex, designed to look like

Landing jetty at Coral Bay beach on the Perhentian Islands
For practical information on getting around, see pp330–39

DISCOVERING MALAYSIA AND SINGAPORE 15

A Week in Kuching Day 2: Semenggoh, Iban women weaving in the Nanga Sumpa
and Its Surroundings Anna Rais, and the longhouse in Sarawak
Santubong River
• Duration Seven days. Watch orangutans being fed at longhouse (see p173) east of
• Airports Fly in and out of the Semenggoh Wildlife Kuching. With a stay of two
Centre (see p167) south of nights you will get to know the
Kuching. Kuching in the morning. From inhabitants, who may have
• Getting around Many of here buses run to the Anna traditional crafts for sale. The
Rais longhouse community of package will usually include
the highlights are rural and it Bidayuh people (see p167), jungle treks and river boat
is best to book a package where you are likely to be trips, perhaps to waterfalls or
trip; spare time in Kuching invited to sample rice wine and other swimming spots.
can be spent consulting tour see a house of skulls dating
operators. Some sights are from the head-hunting era. Day 7: Kuching
straightforward by public Returning to Kuching, take a Return to the city; if there’s time
transport, including Bako Santubong river cruise (see before your departure, visit the
National Park, reached by p315) in the late afternoon to Tua Pek Kong temple (see p162)
bus and then boat. Shuttle look for rare dolphins. or the kitsch Cat Museum on
buses leave from central the northern outskirts (see p163).
Kuching for the Sarawak Day 3: Bako National Park
Cultural Village. Head to the superb Bako To extend your trip…
• Book ahead Recommended National Park (see pp168–9), Fly from Kuching to spend
for Iban longhouse stays and with its endearing proboscis extra days in the Mulu
accommodation at Bako monkeys. There are trails that National Park, following the
National Park (through can take up the rest of the day, suggestions at the start of
Sarawak Forestry in Kuching). some leading to fine beaches, the Northern Sarawak
while others go up and across itinerary (see p16).
Traditional Orang Ulu longhouses, some of a plateau covered in unusual
which offer accommodations scrub forest. At night you can
sign up for a guided trek
Day 1: Kuching and Sarawak through the jungle, looking for
Cultural Village snakes and other creatures.
Wander through the delightful
riverfront area of central Day 4: Bako and Kuching
Kuching (see pp160–63), lined Spend the morning at Bako.
with colonial-era monuments, Returning to Kuching, go down
before getting acquainted to the lively Waterfront (see
with Borneo tribal culture at p162) to browse shops and stalls
the Sarawak Museum (see and perhaps visit the Chinese
p160) and Textile Museum History Museum. Linger
(see p160). Make an afternoon outdoors and you may catch
excursion to explore beautiful one of the city’s scenic sunsets.
examples of authentically
styled tribal longhouses Days 5 & 6: Iban Longhouses
and observe the skilful Book a package trip to an Iban
craftsmanship of indigenous
communities at the Sarawak Boardwalk through the swampy mangrove forest in Bako National Park
Cultural Village (see p165), a
folk museum outside the city.

16 INTRODUCING MALAYSIA AND SINGAPORE

jungle produce is on sale, then
catch a taxi up to the hill behind
the town to visit the Petroleum
Museum (see p177), telling the
story of Miri’s oil boom.

Longboats moored in a creek near Clearwater Cave, Mulu National Park Day 4: Niah Caves National
Park
The National Parks of Day 2: Mulu National Park Make an early start, ideally
Northern Sarawak In the morning, take a boat leaving Miri by 8:30am for a
ride to view more of the caves: day trip to the Niah Caves
• Duration Four days, with the Wind Cave is packed with National Park (see p174), nearly
the option to extend to a stalactites and stalagmites, two hours’ drive away, with
week by visiting Brunei. while Clearwater Cave (see jungle trails and caves of
p176), thought to be the archaeological significance.
• Airports Fly into Mulu longest in Southeast Asia, These are also the source of
National Park and out from impresses with its vastness edible swiftlet nests and bat
Miri. If including the Brunei and subterranean river. Bring guano for fertilizer, both of
extension, fly out from bathing gear for a river swim which you may see workers
Bandar Seri Begawan. outside the caves once the tour harvesting. Bring torches for
is over. There are trails, the lofty the caves, notably the dark
• Getting around This Canopy Skywalk (see p177), passages of the aptly named
itinerary can largely be and one or two other caves to Great Cave. The farthest cave
followed independently occupy the rest of the day. is the Painted Cave, named for
using flights and taxis. For its wall paintings.
Niah Caves National Park, Day 3: Miri
arrange a taxi through your Fly to Miri (see p174) in the To extend your trip…
hotel to take you there in morning. Spend the afternoon Spend three days in Brunei
the morning and collect you wandering around its compact (see pp178–9), a 4-hour
at an arranged time. center, visiting Tamu Muhibbah, bus ride from Miri. The
one of the markets where exotic highlights of the capital,
• Book ahead Flights to and Bandar Seri Begawan, are
from Mulu National Park. For the opulent Omar Ali
Brunei, book a two-day Saifuddien Mosque and
package at the Ulu Tembu- the sprawling Kampung
rong National Park on arrival Ayer, a village built on stilts
in Bandar Seri Begawan. over the Brunei River. After a
night in the capital, book an
overnight excursion to the
Ulu Temburong National
Park, with several trails and
an impressive canopy
walkway at treetop height
for wildlife spotting.

Day 1: Mulu National Park Mist-shrouded forest seen from the entrance to the Great Cave, Niah National Park
Fly into Mulu National Park
(see pp176–7) in the morning.
Once you’ve checked into
your accommodations, register
at the park headquarters to
book guided trips around the
extraordinary show caves.
Don’t miss the spectacular Deer
Cave (see p176), with stunning
rock formations and – at dusk –
vast flocks of bats emerging
from the cave mouth.

For practical information on getting around, see pp330–339

DISCOVERING MALAYSIA AND SINGAPORE 17

A Week in Sabah

• Airports Arrive at Kota Kina- Stark high-altitude landscape on Gunung Kinabula, high above the tree line
balu; depart from Sandakan.
Day 2: Kota Kinabalu and Day 5: Sandakan and
• Getting around Sabah has Excursions Kinabatangan
a good bus network, but Either book an exciting but not Visit Sandakan’s Agnes Keith’s
many highlights are remote too challenging rafting trip House (see p196), a beautifully
and it is best to book guided down the Padas River (see preserved shrine to the
or organized tours locally. p187) or acquaint yourself American writer who helped
For Kinabalu National Park, it further with Sabah’s tribal publicize Borneo in the 1930s,
is worth chartering a taxi for cultures at the Mari Mari and the Sandakan Memorial
the day or asking the driver Cultural Village (see p188), Park (see p196), commemorating
who takes you there to where you can try rice wine and Allied war dead who perished
return to collect you. Fly from be given a tour of the various on a forced march in 1944. In
Kota Kinabalu to Sandakan. longhouses. Back in Kota the afternoon, join a two-night
Kinabalu, ascend Signal Hill (see trip to the Kinabatangan
• Book ahead Book Sepilok p184) in the late afternoon for a Wildlife Sanctuary (see p197),
and Kinabatangan tours scenic vista over the town from where there are excellent jungle
before arrival in Sandakan. its observation platform. lodge accommodations.

• Note on safety Check your
government’s current travel
advisories for this area before
planning trips to some parts
of Sabah (see p183).

The Sabah Museum, Kota Kinabalu, Day 3: Kinabalu National Day 6: Kinabatangan River
designed in the style of a Rungus longhouse Park Spend the day on river trips to
Head out to the Kinabalu spot proboscis monkeys and
Day 1: Kota Kinabalu and National Park (see pp190–91) wonderful birdlife. Many
Klias Wetlands and spend the day walking packages include a visit to the
Kota Kinabalu (see pp184–5) the trails at the foot of the Gomantong Caves (see p197),
is a compact town, easily seen mountain. The Bukit Tupai trail populated by swiftlets and bats,
on foot. The main attractions affords a great view of Mount where you may see the edible
are the Sabah Museum (see Kinabalu. Late afternoon, visit swiftlet nests being harvested.
p184) with its ethnographic the nearby Poring Hot Springs Day 7: Sandakan
exhibits such as a village (see p191) for a relaxing soak. Return to Sandakan to fly out.
showing the traditional
dwellings of Sabah’s tribes; and Day 4: Sandakan and Sepilok Kingfisher spotted on a boat trip down
the town’s waterfront markets, Fly to Sandakan (see p196) in the Kinabatangan River
selling produce and crafts. In the morning and check out the
the afternoon, head out to the waterfront with its boats,
Klias Wetlands (see p186) for an markets, and Chinese temples.
escorted boat trip through the Join a package trip out to
mangrove forests. There’s an Sepilok Orangutan Rehab-
excellent chance of seeing ilitation Center (see p196),
bulbous-nosed proboscis where you can see the animals
monkeys, and most tours linger being fed. If possible, join a tour
in the evening to try to spot that includes the neighboring
fireflies, which flash in unison. Sun Bear Conservation
Center (see p196), which helps
rehabilate orphaned bears,
and the Rainforest Discovery
Center, with jungle trails and a
suspension bridge.

18 INTRODUCING MALAYSIA AND SINGAPORE Hat Yai

Pattani

Putting Peninsular PATTANI

Malaysia on the Map SATUN Bukit Kayu Yala
Hitam
Bordered by Thailand to the north and Pulau THAI
connected to Singapore in the south by a Langkawi PERLIS

Kuala Jitra
Perlis

causeway and a bridge, Peninsular Malaysia Kuala Kedah
occupies the extreme south of mainland Southeast Alor Star
Asia, lying between 2 and 7 degrees north of the Equator.
Off the west coast is the Strait of Malacca, while the east KEDAH YALA

coast looks out onto the South China Sea. The Sungai Betong
majority of Malaysia’s 29 million inhabitants live on Petani Banding
the peninsula, heavily concentrated on the west

coast, which includes the capital, Kuala Lumpur. A Butterworth Grik
mountainous ridge runs down the center of the Georgetown
peninsula, separating the densely forested and NORTH-SOU
sparsely populated east coast from the west. Lawin

Penang Selama Lake Kenering
TH
Padang Gerus

Bagan Serai HWY PERAK

Key Taiping Kuala Kangsar

Highway Ipoh
Major road
Railroad Batu Gajah
International border
State border Pulau Kampar
Pangkor

Tapah
Bidor

Teluk
Intan

Sabak

0 kilometers 50
0 miles
50 Sekincan

Peninsular Malaysia and Malaysian Borneo Kuala Selangor
Kapar

Pulau
Klang

Gulf of South China Sea
Thailand

Strait MALAYSIA SABAH
of
BRUNEI Bandar Seri
Malacca Begawan

Kuala Lumpur SARAWAK
SINGAPORE

see page 20–21

Borneo

INDONESIA

Sumatra 0 km 300

0 miles 300

Duri

INDONESIA

For keys to symbols see back flap

PUT TING MALAYSIA AND SINGAPORE ON THE MAP 19

Sai Buri

South China Sea NEPAL BHUTAN CHINA

TAIWAN

Narathiwat INDIA MYANMAR

LAND BANGLADESH LAOS

Tumpat Kota Bharu VIETNAM PHILIPPINES

NARATHIWAT THAILAND

Pasir Mas CAMBODIA

Ketareh Pasir Perhentian BRUNEI
Puteh Islands
SRI LANKA M A L AY S I A

Kuala Besut Pulau SINGAPORE
Redang
Macang INDONESIA

Jeli

Tasik Kuala Kerai Merang
Temengor

Kemubu Kuala Terengganu

Bertam Marang
Berang

KELANTAN Tasik Kenyir Rantau Abang

Gua Musang TERENGGANU Pulau Tenggol
Merapoh
Dungun

Kerteh

Brinchang M A L AY S I A

Jelai Kuala Lipis Tekai Kijal
Cukai

Kuala Tembeling Cherating

Jerantut PAHANG Beserah
Raub Kuantan

Bentong Maran Pekan
Karak Temerloh Pahang
SELANGOR

Kuala
Lumpur

Klang Petaling NEGERI Kota Bahagia Muadzam Pulau Tioman
Jaya SEMBILAN Bahau Shah

Panting RompinKuala Rompin

Kuala
Seremban Pilah

Tampin Gemas Segamat Seribuat
Labis Archipelago
Port
Dickson Mersing

Strait Alor Gajah Jasin Tangkak .Lenik Sember Jemaluang Pulau Tinggi
ong Pulau Sibu
MELAKA Kahang

Melaka JOHOR

o f Muar Keluang

M alacca Air Hitam

Teluklecan Layang- Mawai
Kota Tinggi
Batu NORT Layang
Pahat
H-SOUTH HWY
Dumai Kulai

Pulau Bengkalis Johor
Bahru
Pontian Kecil

Kukup Singapore

Pulau Kukup SINGAPORE

20 INTRODUCING MALAYSIA AND SINGAPORE

Putting Malaysian Borneo on the Map

Generally referred to as East Malaysia or Malaysian Borneo, this half of Malaysia
comprises the states of Sarawak, the largest in Malaysia, and Sabah, which
together occupy more than half of the country’s 127,445 sq miles (330,000 sq km).
The states are located in the northern part of Borneo, the world’s third-largest
island, which they share with tiny Brunei and Kalimantan, Indonesia. Borneo
lies about 373 miles (600 km) east of Peninsular Malaysia, from which it is
separated by the South China Sea. The region is rich in natural resources,
particularly oil and gas, and much of it is covered by rain forest and is sparsely
populated. Of a population of 6 million people, most live in the provincial
capitals, Kuching in Sarawak and Kota Kinabalu in Sabah, while many
indigenous communities occupy remote outposts in the interior of the states.

Brunei Darussalam Muara

Berakas

BRUNEI MUARA Sundar
Lawas
Bandar Seri

Tutong Begawan

Pantai Labu Trusan
Kenangan
Limbang
Belait
BaramKualaSeriaSungeiLamuninBangar
Belait
TrusanLiang TUTONGLonghouseLong
angTEMBURONGTengoa
Nanga
S.Limbangaram BELAITMedamit
Tutong
Kuala Balai Labi
Belait
B Rampayoh Limb
Teraja
Kuala
Penipir Belait

0 km 20 Miri
0 miles
20 Mulu Long Seridan Beluru
Suai Long Banio

South China Sea

Kemena Tinjar

Bintulu Labang

Mukah Rumah

Melap Belaga
Long Geng
Matu Anap
Daro Igan
Nanga Rumah
Tamin China
La Rajan
Sibau
Sibu Mukah S A R AWA K
g
Binatang MahakamRumah KamRumah Kulit
Sarikei
MKanowit A L A Y S I A

Kabong Julau Song Kapit Baleh
Santubong Rumah
Sematan Saratok Rumah Gaat Rumah Aryl
Lundu Layang
Besi
Sebangan yar Rumah Mau
Kuching
Lupar

Bau Gedong Bandar

Sanggauledo Sri Aman INDONESIA
Engkilili Danau Luar

Putussibau Nahabuan

For keys to symbols see back flap

PUT TING MALAYSIA AND SINGAPORE ON THE MAP 21

Key 0 km 25
0 miles
Major road 25
Other road
Railroad
International border
State border

Pulau

Banggi

Sulu

Sea

Kudat
Telaga

Kanibongan Pulau Jambongan

Sumangat

Kota Belud Golong Pulau
Langkayan
Terusan

Sugut

ngud
Tu
Kota Kinabalu SegaKlaganBeluranSandakan
Abai
Papar M A L A Y S I A

Pulau Telupid Lamag Sukau
Labuan
Keningau ma Tomanggong

Beaufort Lanas Kinabatangan Kuamut

see inset Padas Tenom Nabawan

Bandar Seri Pendawang S A B A H Lahad Datu
Tutong Begawan

Trusan Sapulut Kalabakan Luasong Kunak
Sigattal Sapang
B R U N E I Long Tengoa
Nanga T Semporna
Medamit
rusan
Tawau

Mulu Long Seridan Pulau
Bario Sipadan

Benuang Ulu Ulu
Malinau
Sembakung

Siduman

Long San Tarakan
Tanjung Selor
Lio Matoh

Long m
Palai Bara

Long Tikan

Long Tingen

Danum

Longkihan

Tanjung Redeb

Longisun Longboh

22 INTRODUCING MALAYSIA AND SINGAPORE

Landscape and Wildlife

Although separated by the South China Sea, Peninsular The tualang tree, one of the tallest plants
Malaysia and Malaysian Borneo form a part of the Sunda Shelf, in Malaysia
a tectonic plate that once joined them in a single land mass.
As a result, they share many geological features such as
mountains, river networks, pristine offshore islands, and some
of the world’s oldest rain forests. These rain forests provide a
habitat for a wealth of flora and fauna, including more than
15,000 types of flowering plants and nearly 200,000 species of
animals. Among these are well-known endemic species, such
as the orangutan, proboscis monkey, and rafflesia. Singapore
retains pockets of primary rain forest in its northern region,
while three-quarters of Brunei is still covered by native forest.

Rain Forests Limestone Outcrops

The rain forests of Malaysia are about 130 million Many of Malaysia’s mountains are formed of
years old and nurture a phenomenal range of limestone, often rising dramatically out of the
plant life, from the 262-ft- (80-m-) tall tualang surrounding plain and containing massive
tree to an array of ferns, mosses, fungi, and cave networks caused by erosion. The most
orchids. They also provide a home for orangutans, spectacular limestone outcrops are found in
proboscis monkeys, tapirs, binturongs or Malay Sarawak’s Niah Caves (see p174) and in Mulu
civet cats, and honey bears, as well as hundreds National Park (see pp176–7).
of species of birds and butterflies.
Bats, such as
Malaysian tapirs the wrinkle-
are distinguished by their lipped bat, are
black and white coloring common residents
and pig-like snout. These of limestone caves.
vegetarian mammals are Each evening,
millions of bats take
most active at night. flight, filling the sky with
a fantastic display.

The orangutan is the Cave swiftlets are
only great ape found unusual birds that use
outside Africa. These echolocation to
red-haired primates navigate the pitch-
dark interiors of the
now face extinction caves. White nest
and are rarely seen swiftlets are prized in
in the wild. Malaysia for their
edible nests.

A PORTRAIT OF MALAYSIA AND SINGAPORE 23

Malaysia’s Endangered Species

Malaysia’s population has doubled since the 1970s, and the growing
demand for living space is gradually destroying the habitat of several
wildlife species. In greatest danger is the Sumatran rhinoceros, whose
numbers are now thought to be fewer than 100. Several other species,
including the clouded leopard, Asian elephant, and the country’s national
animal, the tiger, have also seen a dramatic decline. Among marine life,
leatherback turtles and dugongs face a
similar threat.

Clouded leopards, tawny or The Sumatran rhinoceros
silver-colored cats, are hunted is critically endangered.
for their pelt, teeth, and bones, Its last remaining habitats
include Sabah and
the latter being used in Endau-Rompin National
traditional Asian medicines. Park (see p143).

Coastal Plains Offshore Islands
The west coast of Peninsular Malaysia The seas around both Peninsular Malaysia and
constitutes a long plain that provides an ideal Malaysian Borneo are studded with stunning
environment for human inhabitation. These islands, many of them surrounded by coral reefs
plains were the site of the earliest British that sustain an incredible wealth of marine life.
settlements. Most of the country’s important Divers are drawn to islands such as Tioman
towns and cities, such as Kuala Lumpur, were and Sipadan to observe the thriving
established here. underwater world.

Mangroves are trees Dugongs take their
and shrubs that form name from the Malay
swampy forests in saline word duyung, which

coastal waters and means mermaid.
provide a vital habitat for Persistent hunting has

a number of wildlife resulted in the near
species such as the extinction of these large
proboscis monkey.
sea mammals.

Fiddler crabs are critical to the Coral reefs, formed
wetland environment as they help by tiny marine ani-
mals called polyps
aerate the soil by their and other organisms,
feeding action. are beautiful living
Males have structures. They are
asymmetrical essential to the
and often preservation of
brightly marine life.
colored claws.

24 INTRODUCING MALAYSIA AND SINGAPORE

Marine Life

The waters around both Peninsular Malaysia and Malaysian
Borneo contain a huge diversity of marine life that attracts
divers and snorkelers from around the world to gaze at
brilliantly colored parrotfish, lionfish, and clownfish flitting
around the vibrant coral reefs. For much of the year, the
superb clarity of the water makes it easy to spot even the
tiniest fish. The Malaysian government has designated
38 of its coral islands as protected areas to preserve their
unique and biologically sensitive ecosystems.

Snorkeler examining underwater life on a
coastal reef

Sea anemones, named for a species of garden flower, are
brightly colored, predatory animals that eat fish, mussels,
and zooplankton.

Coral Life

Over 350 species of coral have been identified in
Malaysian waters, making the country’s reefs some of

the most diverse in the world. Sadly, they are under
threat from sediment build-up caused by ongoing
logging, blast and cyanide fishing, and anchoring.

Gorgonian fan Brain corals are usually The star coral has a
corals reach up found in colonies and bear stone-like calcium
to 16.5 ft (5 m) an uncanny resemblance skeleton and star-
in height in the to the human brain. shaped polyp.
warm waters of the
tropics, filtering out
the plankton and
zooxanthellae on
which they live.

Yellow soft corals, so called because of their lack of a hard Sunflower corals have long polyps
external skeleton, have polyps with eight tentacles, and come tipped with stinging tentacles to
in a stunning kaleidoscope of colors. catch plankton.

A PORTRAIT OF MALAYSIA AND SINGAPORE 25

Coleman shrimp, always found in pairs, live Mandarin fish live camouflaged in broken coral
on the toxic fire urchin. They clear a resting bottoms eating small crustaceans called copepods.
area of poisonous spines and sit protected The male is larger than the female and has a spiked
from predators. dorsal fin which it uses to threaten other males.

Sea ferns are Clownfish live in a
a type of gor- symbiotic relationship
gonian coral with sea anemones,
with varied which defend
shapes and them from
colors. predatory fish.

The lionfish, a reef
dweller of spectacular

appearance, is a
deadly killer, armed
with venomous
spines that it uses
to stun small fish.

Sea horses are unusual
in that it is the males
that give birth. Many
species are almost
transparent and hard
to spot. Their use in
Chinese medicine has

put them under threat
of extinction.

Lettuce coral is named for its green Turtle Conservation
color and spiraling plates that
resemble a growing lettuce. Until recently, turtles were among

Shoals of big-eye trevallies in the the most conspicuous forms of
South China Sea
marine life in Malaysia. Of the four

species of turtle known to breed in

these waters – the green, the

hawksbill, the olive ridley, and the

leatherback – only the green is now

commonly seen and the leather-

back is an endangered species.

There is ample evidence that human

intervention is destroying the

habitat and damaging the life cycle Green turtle swimming in the warm
of these turtles. Throughout their

lives, adult turtles are prone to waters near Malaysia

getting caught in fishing lines and

nets, while the increasing development of beaches has adverse effects

on the numbers of nesting females, eggs, and hatchlings.

26 INTRODUCING MALAYSIA AND SINGAPORE

Peoples of Malaysia and Singapore

The indigenous people of Malaysia settled in the region A group of Orang Asli, the indigenous
some 40,000 years ago. Owing to its key position on maritime people of Malaysia
trade routes from around 2,500 years ago, the region
acquired a large immigrant population. Today, Malays form
51 percent of the country’s 29 million inhabitants, with the
Chinese making up about a quarter, and the Indians about
7 percent. Indigenous groups comprise the remainder of the
population. By contrast, the Chinese form a strong majority
in Singapore, where there are fewer Malays and Indians.

The Malay

The largest ethnic group of Malaysia is, by definition, a Muslim
group. Believed to have arrived on the peninsula from
Sumatra, the Malays began converting to Islam in the 15th
century, owing to the rise of the Malay sultanates. Today, they
predominate on the east coast of Peninsular Malaysia, while in
Singapore, they constitute about 14 percent of the population.

Malays celebrate Traditional Malay culture revolves
Hari Raya Puasa, also around village compounds called
known as Hari Raya kampung, where inhabitants farm,
Aidilfitri (see p58), the fish, and practice crafts. Today,
Muslim New Year. Here, many Malays have migrated to
Prime Minister Najib urban centers.
Razak joins other
dignitaries in traditional
Malaysian finery.

The Chinese Chinese traders can be seen selling
artifacts in Kuala Lumpur. The Chinese
Originally from southern China, most Chinese immigrants have historically played a major role in
arrived in Malaysia during the 19th century to work as the Malaysian economy.
laborers in the burgeoning tin-mining industry.
Since then, they have dominated all aspects of
commerce and today, Malaysia has several
Chinatowns, where Chinese businesses
thrive. In Singapore, more than three-
quarters of the population is Chinese.

The Peranakans, also known as Straits
Chinese or Baba-Nyonya, are a community
born out of marriages between Chinese and
Malays from the 16th century onwards.

South Asians

Indians have been trading with Malaysia for over 2,000 years.
However, most Malaysians of Indian origin settled here, like the
Chinese, during the 19th century. Although the immigrants
came largely from southern India, there are also people of
northern Indian descent, notably the Sikhs.

Asian women of Indian A rubber tapper of south
descent sell handmade Indian origin collects latex
silk at market stalls in from a rubber tree. Indians
Kuala Lumpur. The have also traditionally been
ethnic enclaves of Little employed on tea estates.
India (see p76) and
Brickfields are packed
with such stalls.

A PORTRAIT OF MALAYSIA AND SINGAPORE 27

Indigenous Peoples of Malaysia

The indigenous peoples of Peninsular Malaysia, the Orang Asli,

are among the minority of the peninsula’s population, and gener-

ally live in its more inaccessible areas. In contrast, indigenous

tribes make up half the population of Sarawak and 66 percent of

Sabah. Many of these groups, including the Iban and Bidayuh

of Sarawak, live in longhouses and hold animist beliefs. Some,

like the Kelabit and Bajau, have converted to Christianity or

Islam. The tribes of Sabah, such as the Kadazan Dusun, are

traditionally agriculturalists, but most other groups were semi-

nomadic hunter-gatherer communities. They are now being The Bajau are predominantly
encouraged by the government to live in towns and villages. Muslim and are the second-largest

ethnic group in Sabah. Noted horse-

The Penan, the only true men, the Bajau dress in elaborate

nomadic indigenous group in costumes at the annual Tamu Besar

Malaysia, are skilled hunter- in Kota Belud (see p59).

gatherers. Of the 10,000

individuals living in the upper

Rajang and Limbang areas of

Sarawak, only about 200 are

truly nomadic.

The Kadazan Dusun are the largest The Rungus are an indigenous
ethnic group in Sabah, made up of a people of northern Sabah. They are
skilled in beadwork, weaving, and
number of subgroups, constituting gong-making. Rungus people live
about 25 percent of Sabah’s communally in longhouses around
Kudat (see p189).
population. They traditionally wear
black silk outfits on festive occasions
such as the Dusun Harvest Dance.

The Bidayuh, or Land The Orang Ulu, or
Dayaks, build their upriver people, is an
longhouses on hillsides, unofficial generic name
rather than near water as for about 27 small
the other groups in and ethnically diverse
Sarawak do. The third- groups, such as the
largest of Sarawak’s Kayan and Kenyah, living
indigenous peoples, they in the interior of Sarawak.
predominantly inhabit
the region around
Kuching (see p165).

Bumiputras The Iban, also known as Sea Dayaks, are the
largest ethnic group of Sarawak. They have
The Malaysian authorities make an important an enduring reputation as fierce warriors
distinction between migrant peoples and the and good hunters. The men are often
bumiputras, or sons of the soil. The latter group heavily tattooed.
includes all Malays and indigenous peoples of the
country. This recognition was brought in as part of the
New Economic Policy, following race riots in 1969, to
boost the bumiputras’ economic standing in society. It
is much criticized by the Chinese and Indian migrants
as racially discriminatory, though some argue the
policy has ultimately led to more stability as it gave
rise to a rich Malay group, whose financial interests lie
in maintaining political and economic harmony.

28 INTRODUCING MALAYSIA AND SINGAPORE

Islam Domes are a characteristic
feature of all mosques. They
While Malaysia is home to people of many different faiths, are generally onion-shaped
Islam is the official religion. So closely bound is Malay structures and are often
cultural identity with Islam that the Bahasa Malaysia phrase crowned by a crescent moon,
for adopting Islam, masok melayu, means “to become a the universal symbol of Islam.
Malay.” Arab and Indian-Muslim merchants, who doubled
as missionaries, began converting the local population
from the 11th century onwards. Most Malay Muslims are
orthodox Sunnis of the Shafi’i school but there are also
smaller numbers of Shia Muslims and Sufi mystics. Just over
60 percent of Malaysia’s population is Muslim; in Singapore,
they form around 14 percent of the population.

The courtyard of a mosque is designed to accommodate a
large number of worshipers. This courtyard at Johor Bahru’s

Sultan Abu Bakar Mosque holds 2,000 people.

A minaret is a lofty tower usually
located in one of the corners of a
mosque. From here the muezzin,
or caller to prayer, summons the
faithful five times a day.

Islamic Architecture

Despite the flamboyant exteriors of
some Islamic architecture, its real

beauty lies in the inner spaces of the
courtyard and rooms. This has often
led to it being called the architecture
of the veil. With its gleaming golden
dome and striking minarets, Ubudiah

Mosque (right) in Kuala Kangsar is
among Malaysia’s finest mosques.

This crenellated Colorful Islamic tilework is characterized by
arch at Kapitan intricate geometric patterns and graceful floral
Keling Mosque (see motifs. Traditional Malay Muslim houses and
p108) in Georgetown, mosques are adorned with these tiles.
Penang, is Moorish in
style, borrowing from
the architectural
tradition of Islamic
Spain and the North
African Maghreb.

A PORTRAIT OF MALAYSIA AND SINGAPORE 29

Islamic Faith

Islam, which means “submission to the will of God” in Arabic, was founded by
the Prophet Muhammad at Mecca in Arabia, in AD 622. The principle of Islam
rests on an unshakeable faith in a single deity, Allah, and on his word delivered by
Muhammad in the Koran. The five pillars of Islamic faith are shahadah, witnessing
that there is only one God; salat, performing the five daily prayers; sawm, fasting
during the month of Ramadan; zakat, the giving of alms; and hajj, performing the
pilgrimage to Mecca at least once in a lifetime.

The Koran is the central Salat is the
religious text of Islam, name given to
believed to be the the obligatory
prayers that are
inspired and immutable performed five times a day. The
Word of God. Divided faithful always pray in the direction
into 114 units and of Mecca. Salat is believed to
written in the Arabic establish a direct link between the
script, it is often worshiper and the worshiped.
memorized verbatim
by the faithful. Wuzu is the first
step of the ablutions

performed before
commencing the salat.
This is an essential act
of spiritual and physical
cleansing, as no prayer

is acceptable without
the complete wuzu.

Islamic Art

Architecture and calligraphy are the two most
distinctive and elegant art forms in Islam. Both have
developed to levels of great sophistication because of
the general prohibition of representational art forms.
The hadith, or Traditions of the Prophet Muhammad,
decree that “the house which contains pictures will not
be entered by the angels.” Geometry also plays a major

role in both architecture and calligraphy.

Zapin is a traditional Malay The Jawi script is a Malay variant of Arabic writing.
folk dance, with dancers It is one of the two official scripts in Brunei and is
also used in Malaysia and Singapore, particularly in
usually performing in pairs religious calligraphy.
accompanied by Islamic
Batik, the art of wax-resist
devotional chanting. Believed dyeing on textiles, is
to have been introduced commonly used to

by 14th-century pattern garments such as
Muslim missionaries sarongs with bright
designs. The most
from the Middle
East, it is popular of such designs
are floral prints (see p36).
commonly
performed
in Johor Bahru

(see p134).

30 INTRODUCING MALAYSIA AND SINGAPORE

Hinduism and Buddhism

Hinduism and Buddhism are the major religions of Malaysia

and Singapore’s South Asian and Chinese communities

respectively. Although Hinduism dates back at least

1,500 years in both countries, the religion only took root

when contract laborers from India were recruited to work in

rubber and coffee plantations in Malaysia in the late 19th and

20th centuries. Buddhism became a permanent feature in

Malaysia and Singapore after Chinese immigrants spread the

religion to every part of the country in the 19th century. Monk praying at a shrine of Kuan Yin,
Hinduism goddess of mercy

Hinduism in Malaysia and Singapore, complete with Statues of deities are Fresh flower
its many rituals and deities, is directly taken from enshrined at the garlands are used to
Indian Hindu traditions, especially those of southern central altar. venerate the gods.
India from where most Indian migrants originated.

Devotees come Offerings may Components Hindu priests are
to temples for include flowers, of a prayer Brahmins who
individual or incense, and ritual include belong to the
communal puja, fruits such as frankincense, highest of the four
or worship, ritual coconuts, which myrrh, and main castes. They
occasions, and to are sprinkled other aromatic tend to the temple
make offerings to with holy water combustibles. and officiate at
honor the gods. during prayers. ceremonies.

The gopuram, or entrance Shaivism Vibrant portrait of
gateway to Hindu temples, Lord Shiva
is often multitiered and Shaivism is a form of Hinduism which worships
elegantly decorated with Lord Shiva as the main manifestation of the
colorful sculptures from supreme being. His consort, Parvati, and their
the vast pantheon of two sons, Murugan and Ganapati, are also
Hindu gods. worshiped by Shaivites. Shaivism grew
prominent in Malaysia and Singapore as the
Indian immigrants who settled there in the
19th century were mainly from southern India
where the worship of Shiva is popular. The
Sri Shivan temples in Singapore and Malaysia
are especially revered by Shaivites.

A PORTRAIT OF MALAYSIA AND SINGAPORE 31

Buddhism Buddhist monks shave
In both Malaysia and Singapore the Chinese communities follow the their heads, wear saffron
Mahayana school of Buddhism practiced in China, Japan, Korea, and robes, and generally go
Vietnam. The Thais of Singapore and the Orang Syam, or indigenous barefoot to indicate a life
Thais of Malaysia, follow Theravada Buddhism, practiced in Thailand, of austerity.
Laos, Cambodia, Myanmar, and Sri Lanka. Buddhism in both countries
is a fusion of different beliefs. In Singapore it is combined with The Buddha’s hair is generally
Confucianism, Taoism, and ancestor worship. Buddhism is also arranged in the form of snail-
personalized and centers around Kuan Yin, the goddess of mercy. shell curls, and surmounted by
Belief in luck and filial piety are also central features of Buddhism. an ushnisa, or topknot.

The Buddha’s halo, or Elongated earlobes are
nimbus, commonly thought to be the result of
depicted in Buddhist art, heavy earrings worn by the
signifies enlightenment and Buddha as a prince.
spiritual development.
A simple monk’s robe
An urna, or a small represents the Buddha’s life
protuberance between the of renunciation.
Buddha’s eyes, represents the
“third eye” of spiritual vision, a The cross-legged posture
mark of a holy man. is the position in which
Buddha is most commonly
The Buddha is often depicted portrayed.
with a serene expression and
a faint smile.

The wheel-turning pose
represents the Wheel of Law,
or dhammachakra, set in
motion by the Buddha’s first
sermon at Sarnath, India.

Bare feet with both soles
turned upward and resting
on opposite thighs signifies
meditation.

Principles of Buddhism

Despite the existence of two main schools and

different sects that have evolved over the

centuries, the central principles of

Buddhism are common to most forms

of the religion. These include the

Four Noble Truths; the Eight-Fold

Path; karma, or the moral law of

cause and effect, which is

symbolized by the Wheel of Law,

and nirvana, or enlightenment. The

Devout Buddhists burn incense and make Mahayana, or Greater Vehicle, school
offerings at temples across Malaysia and
Singapore to show respect to the Buddha, stresses the role of the bodhisattva or Buddhist Wheel
the sangha, or order of monks, and the
dhamma, or teachings of the Buddhist religious adept who, having gained of Law
canon. Offerings often include fruit and
flowers. Worshipers usually ask for good nirvana, voluntarily renounces it to
health and prosperity.
enlighten others. The Theravada, or Lesser

Vehicle, school emphasizes the role of the arhat,

or worthy one, who has attained nirvana.

32 INTRODUCING MALAYSIA AND SINGAPORE

Secular Architecture

The traditional vernacular architecture of Malaysia The Singapore skyline is dominated by spectacular
and Singapore is mainly Malay and Straits Chinese, high-rise buildings
but a strong colonial influence is also apparent in
buildings constructed during periods of British,
Portuguese, and Dutch rule. In contrast, both
countries boast stunning modern architecture, most
prominently seen in their soaring skyscrapers. This is
particularly true of Kuala Lumpur and Singapore.

Straits Chinese Overhanging Characteristic
floors protect gabled roof
Straits Chinese architecture centers on the
ubiquitous shophouse, found throughout pedestrians
Malaysia and Singapore. Buildings of this from the sun
style were introduced by immigrants from
the Guangdong province of southern China. (see p111)

Flower motif on Classic shophouses
a Peranakan comprise a ground floor,
whose street-facing portion
shophouse tile. is used to conduct business,
and upper floors that serve

as living quarters.

Traditional Malay House

The traditional Malay house tends to be raised on stilts,
with extensions added when necessary. The house is
centered around the rumah ibu, or main living room.

Pitched roof with Serambi gantung, or
gables hanging veranda

Stilts that protect the house from floods The interiors are ventilated by many
open spaces such as verandas and
windows. Traditionally, the houses have
wooden walls and thatched roofs.

Longhouses Living quarters Bamboo and rattan, the
occupied by individual traditional building materials
Indigenous peoples of Sabah families
and Sarawak traditionally live in
longhouse communities (see Open veranda
p173), with each family occupying a or tanju
separate apartment under a single
contiguous roof. The entire
structure is raised on stilts.

Longhouses commonly have a Shaded area used as shelter for domestic animals
covered veranda, or ruai, which
runs the length of the building,
backed by a series of living
quarters, or bileks. There is also
a tanju, or open veranda.

A PORTRAIT OF MALAYSIA AND SINGAPORE 33

Minangkabau Wide eaves for protection Wooden shingles used in place
against rain of thatch
The spectacular architecture of
the Minangkabau people, Minangkabau houses, or rumah Windows permitting air
concentrated in the state of minangkabau, are recognizable by the circulation
Negeri Sembilan, is chiefly distinctive style of their roofs.
distinguished by upswept roofs
rising to pointed peaks that
represent the horns of a victorious
buffalo, or minangkabau (see
p127). Traditionally, the roofs were
thatched with the fronds of the
nipa palm, but today they are
more usually shingled, or even
made from galvanized iron.

Colonial Buildings

Colonial buildings in both Malaysia and Singapore
combine British Indian, Dutch East Indian, and
Portuguese styles, often combined with indigenous
Malay elements, Islamic motifs, and classical
European flourishes. Elaborate decorations and
wooden traceries lend individuality and style.

Classical façade

Mock-Tudor bungalows are not
uncommon in the hill stations of
Peninsular Malaysia. These were built by

British plantation owners.

Grand entrance portico The Raffles Hotel in Singapore dates from
1887 and is named after Sir Stamford Raffles,
the founder of Singapore (see pp220–21). It is
the epitome of colonial elegance.

Modern Architecture The 1,483-ft (452-m)-tall Petronas towers

Both Malaysia and Singapore are distinguished Tower consisting of 88 floors,
by their steel and concrete skyscrapers, often 10 escalators, and 76 elevators
with façades of light- and heat-reflecting
mirrored glass. While contemporary buildings in Skybridge connecting the
Malaysia incorporate elements of traditional towers at 558 ft (170 m) off
Islamic architecture, Singaporean designs
remain entirely modernistic. the ground

The futuristic Esplanade – Theaters on the Bay, with twin The Petronas
domes (see p216), adds to Singapore’s ultramodern cityscape, Towers are
in contrast with the city’s traditional Indian, Chinese, and
colonial architecture. Malaysia’s most
famous modern
structures. With
88 stories, they

are the tallest
twin buildings

in the world
(see p78).

34 INTRODUCING MALAYSIA AND SINGAPORE

Festivals of Malaysia and Singapore

Life in Malaysia and Singapore is punctuated with Giant banners in abundance, marking the
festivals, which are both frequent and spectacular. beginning of the Chinese New Year
Although some festivals have a fixed date according
to the international calendar, the Malay Muslim,
Hindu, and Chinese traditions all set their festive days
according to the lunar calendar (see p321), making
these celebrations movable events. Fortunately, the
Malaysia and Singapore tourist boards regularly
publish calendars of national and local festivals.

The dragon is a mythical
beast symbolizing justice,
wealth, and good fortune.

The colors used are
predominantly red and gold,
representing prosperity and
long life.

Seven poles support the
body, although more
may be needed if the
dragon is long.

A traditional dinner with the entire family is
perhaps the most important aspect of the
celebrations at the New Year, which is also
considered the time for new beginnings.

Chinese New Year

The most significant festival for the Chinese is the
Lunar New Year. In Singapore and in some parts
of Malaysia, such as Kuala Lumpur, Ipoh, Taiping,

and Johor Bahru, this 15-day festival is marked
by chingay, a joyous street parade with lion

dancers, stilt-walkers, giant banners, music, and
colorful floats. Almost all the festival rituals are
focused on bringing good luck and prosperity.

The leader of the team must be the
most skilled and experienced of the
dancers as the others follow him.

The display of fireworks in the night skies The lion dance is a traditional dance form that dates
above the Petronas Towers is a spectacular back more than a thousand years. A pair of dancers
highlight of the extravagant New Year’s Eve trained in martial arts form the fore and hind legs of the
celebrations in Kuala Lumpur. lion, mimicking its motions.

A PORTRAIT OF MALAYSIA AND SINGAPORE 35

Hari Raya Puasa Devout Muslim men start the day at the mosque for morning
prayers, dressed in their finest clothes. Graves are cleaned
For Malay Muslims, the most important and quarrels forgiven before the festivities begin.
festival of the year is Hari Raya Puasa,
also known as Aidilfitri in Malay, mark- Muslim children
ing the end of the fasting month of light firecrackers
Ramadan. Throughout the ninth month on Hari Raya Puasa
of the Muslim calendar, believers abstain and are given duit
from eating and drinking between sun- raya, or gifts of
rise and sunset. With the sighting of the money, in small
new moon on the 30th day of the ninth green envelopes.
month, Ramadan ends and the tenth For three days,
month is ushered in with feasting on family, friends, and
traditional fare such as ketupat, or rice neighbors visit
cakes, and lemang, or glutinous rice. each other.

The long, narrow body of
the dragon is designed for
sinuous movement.

Dragon dancers must
be fit and need to
practice regularly to
put on a good show.

Thaipusam

Celebrated by the southern Indian communities of
Malaysia and Singapore, Thaipusam honors the Hindu
god Murugan, youngest son of the gods Shiva and Parvati.
It is held in the Tamil month of Thai (between January and

February). The largest Thaipusam festival takes place
at the Batu Caves, with over one million devotees and

10,000 tourists attending it. Worshipers shave their
heads and undertake a pilgrimage along a set route,

performing various acts of devotion along the way.

Kavadi carriers hold elaborately decorated metal
frames called kavadi. Adorned with peacock
feathers, these portable altars are attached to
devotees with skewers pierced into the skin.

The Batu Caves (see p96), dedicated to Lord
Murugan, are one of the prime pilgrimage
sites for Malaysia’s Hindus. A spectacular scene
unfolds at this site just outside Kuala Lumpur
during Thaipusam, when pilgrims climb the
272 steps to the temple at the summit.

36 INTRODUCING MALAYSIA AND SINGAPORE

Arts and Crafts of Malaysia Labu sayong water pots from Sayong, near
Kuala Kangsar
Malaysia has a wealth of indigenous artistic traditions,
many dating back centuries, but its arts and crafts have
also been enriched by the cultural influences of Chinese,
Indians, and other peoples. While Peninsular Malaysia
excels at metalwork, Malaysian Borneo produces the most
spectacular woodcarvings. Besides pottery, ceramic, brass,
and silverware, a wide range of regional artistry, such as
kite-making in Kota Bharu, is available. The country has a
flourishing art scene, influenced by Hindu, Buddhist, Islamic,
and Chinese cultures, and more recently by Western art.

Malayasian Textiles

Batik, which means writing in wax, is extremely popular
in Malaysia, forming part of the Malay national dress.

Among the best places to buy traditional batik is Kuching in
Sarawak. The country’s textile traditions also encompass
fine silk and cotton cloth originally created for the
royal courts. These include kain lemar, or silk brocade
interwoven with ikat; kain sutera, or woven silk; kain
songket, or rich brocade; and kain mastuli, or heavy silk.

Ikat cloth is made
using a tie-and-dye
technique on the
threads before they
are woven into
elaborate patterns.
Today, the best
ikat, such as this
decorative Iban
blanket, comes
from Sarawak.

Batik motifs are Melted wax is applied to
usually floral or the cloth to prevent dyes
geometric.
from penetrating.

Pua kumbu cloths are woven by the Iban for use in
ceremonies and for decoration. Weaving is done
primarily by women and the motif they use once
showed their status. Today, motifs vary from plant and
animal themes to more abstract patterns.

Songket Silk

The term songket is derived from the Malay menyongket,
which means to embroider with silver or gold thread. The
metallic thread inserted between the silk strands stands out
on the background cloth, creating a shimmering effect.

Kain sutera is a Kain mastuli is a rich and heavy variety
type of songket of songket silk thread that is used when
used for sarongs making traditional garments and
traditionally decorative fabrics.
worn on formal
or ceremonial
occasions.

A PORTRAIT OF MALAYSIA AND SINGAPORE 37

Woodcarving

Malaysian Borneo boasts the best and most varied forms
of woodcarving in the country. Indigenous people of the
region are known for their carving of spirit and totem
figures, masks, and good luck charms.

Malay woodcarvers work deftly and with Elaborate wooden
confident speed. Some of the best are masks are carved by
found in Kuching and Kota Bharu. the indigenous
peoples of Malaysian
Borneo to fend off evil
and bad luck.

This gilt carving
of a bat on the
window frame of
a Melakan house
is a Peranakan
symbol of good
fortune.

A tribal grave
post with a

totemic figure is
displayed at

Kuching’s Sarawak
Museum.

Intricately carved shields were traditionally carried by
Iban warriors into battle. The heavy wooden shields were
often decorated with hideous faces to demoralize foes.

Metalwork Brass is used for
making household,
Traditional Malaysian silverware and jewelry has decorative, and
been influenced by the Peranakan. Metalware ceremonial objects.
produced and sold in the markets of Penang, This brass screen in
Melaka, and Kuching often shows considerable Kuala Lumpur’s
southern Indian influence. The products include Sri Kanthaswamy
gongs produced in Sumangkap (see p188), a Hindu Temple
range of brass items, and keris. shows the intricate
detailing that is
typical of Malaysian
craftsmanship.

Keris, or daggers, Silverware of the
are weapons finest quality is
unique to Malay produced in
culture. They are
said to possess Kelantan and
magical powers Terengganu.
that protect their Malaysian silver-
owners and ware is known for
bring death to its intricate filigree
enemies. work and designs.



INTRODUCING MALAYSIA AND SINGAPORE 39

THE HISTORY OF
MALAYSIA AND
SINGAPORE

The early history of the Malay peninsula is shrouded in mystery. But records
of the subsequent centuries depict a great trading nation beleaguered by
foreign invaders attracted by its abundant natural wealth and strategic position
between the key maritime trade centers of India and China. Following their
independence, Malaysia and Singapore have rapidly emerged as models of
economic progress and modernization.

The discovery in 1958 of a human skull the peninsula as suvarnabhumi, or the
at Niah Caves in Sarawak and stone land of gold, from as early on as 200 BC.
tools from Perak point towards human The growth of trade relations with India
occupation of the region as far back as brought the coastal peoples of the Strait of
40,000 BC. Findings of pottery and stone Malacca into contact with Buddhism and
objects from both the peninsula and Hinduism, as well as with Indian notions of
Malaysian Borneo, dating between kingship. For example, the Malay word for
2800 and 500 BC, prove the existence ruler, rajah, was borrowed from Sanskrit.
of a Neolithic culture in this region. Significant archaeological finds, such as
Sanskrit inscriptions and Hindu and
Although few iron and bronze objects Buddhist statues (especially in Kedah in
have been found in Malaysia, evidence in northwest Malaysia), suggest that Indian
the form of huge Bronze Age Dongson influence was well established in a number
drums links Peninsular Malaysia to northern of settlements along the west coast of
Vietnam at around 500–300 BC. The drums, the peninsula by the 5th century AD.
together with beads and pottery from India
and China also found on the peninsula and Chinese trade was significant too,
dating back to the same time, indicate that beginning from the 2nd century, via the
international trade networks were already Cambodian kingdom of Funan which
well established and foreign goods were extended its influence into the northern
being exchanged for the region’s rich peninsula. The growing use of the sea to
resources, including tin, gold, aromatic transport goods from western Asia to China
woods, and spices. So rich was this trade gave further impetus to the emergence of
that the Indians seem to have referred to port kingdoms in the Malaysian world.

Stone Age tools, 1000 BC 500–300 BC Period of the Bronze Age AD 400–500 Increasing
Lenggong Museum Dongson culture in northern Vietnam Southeast Asian trade
with China
40,000–2800 BC AD 1–99 Kingdom of Funan established
Prehistoric Age in the lower Mekong Delta AD 400
Dongson drum
2000 BC 0 AD 200

2800–500 BC 200 BC Maritime trade links
Neolithic Age established between India and
Southeast Asia; Hindu influences
begin to spread across the region

Panoramic Sketch of Prince of Wales Island by William Daniell, 1821

40 INTRODUCING MALAYSIA AND SINGAPORE

Srivijaya Arrival of Arab merchants and missionaries in Southeast Asia

The first of the port kingdoms to become a the increasing presence of Chinese ships
great pan-Malay confederation was the encouraged Srivijaya’s vassals to break away
Hindu-Buddhist, maritime trade-based from Palembang’s grip. By the late 13th
empire of Srivijaya. It emerged in the course century, the Thai kingdoms of Sukhothai
of the 7th century and established its capital and Ayutthaya had acquired considerable
near Palembang in southeastern Sumatra. influence over the peninsula, as had the
Hindu Majapahit empire of Java over
Srivijaya evolved into a wealthy and southeast Sumatra.
powerful Malay kingdom, dominating
maritime passages around the Strait of The Spread of Islam
Malacca and the Sunda Strait (between
Java and Sumatra), as well as the overland Islam came to Southeast Asia as a
portage routes across Peninsular Malaysia religion of trade, not one of conquest.
as far north as Nakhon Si Thammarat in Introduced by Arab merchants and
present-day Thailand. From its strategic missionaries around the 11th century, the
position, Srivijaya was able to attract and religion spread rapidly across Peninsular
monopolize overseas commerce between Malaysia with Indian-Muslim traders. The
India and China, acting as a great entrepôt Terengganu Stone, discovered in the
for Southeast Asian shipping as well as a peninsula’s northeastern province in 1899,
source for rare and valuable goods, from bears an inscription in the Malay Arabic
scented woods to gold. script, suggesting that Islamic law was esta-
blished here as early as 1303. However,
The rulers of Srivijaya developed Islam received its greatest boost when it
methods of government which became was made state religion of the Sultanate of
popular with succeeding kingdoms Melaka in the 15th century. Spreading to
such as Melaka. Paramount among these the farthest corners of the Melakan empire,
concepts was complete loyalty to the ruler, Islam gradually came to be associated with
who was associated with divine powers – the national identity of Malays.
disloyalty was severely punished. While a
mixture of Hinduism, Buddhism, and
indigenous spirit belief was practiced in
Srivijaya, it gained prominence as a
center of Buddhist learning.

Srivijaya prospered until the 11th century,
after which it began to decline, weakened
by wars both with Java and the south
Indian Chola kingdom. The power of the
Hindu-Buddhist rajahs was also being
undermined by Islam. At the same time,

700s Golden Illustration 1000s With the arrival of
age of Srivijaya depicting Arab merchants, Islam
medieval Arab spreads throughout the
AD 700 merchants region

Thai Srivijaya-style AD 850 AD 1000
Boddhisattva
992–1016 Wars between 1025 Raids by
Srivijaya and Java Chola kings

THE HISTORY OF MALAYSIA AND SINGAPORE 41

The Rise of Melaka

Around 1400, Parameswara, the prince of Plan of the city of Melaka by Pedro Baretti de Resende, c.1511.
Palembang, attempted to throw off Javanese
domination over his realm by fleeing to dominating much of the Malay world.
Tumasik in present-day Singapore, before Though ties with the Imperial Court in
finally establishing a new kingdom at Melaka. China were fostered for added protection,
Ideally located on the Strait of Malacca and the sultanate developed into an independ-
within easy reach of the spice islands of ent and centralized administration with the
Indonesia, the new state attracted trade from sultan as absolute ruler. He oversaw a fairly
across Asia. In 1405, Zheng He, the great complex legal and administrative structure
Chinese Ming admiral, launched his explo- which ensured the stability of the kingdom.
rations of Southeast Asia and the Indian High-ranking officials of the state included
Ocean, and made Melaka the main outpost the bendahara, or prime minister, the
for his fleet. This helped secure a trade agree- laksamanas, or admirals, who commanded
ment with China as well as protection from the army and navy, the temenggung, or
its emperor against the constant threat of minister responsible for defense and justice,
Siamese attacks. The city of Melaka became and the syahbandar, or harbor master.
truly cosmopolitan: given the seasonal Government was formalized in the Undang-
winds, ships from China, Japan, India, and Undang Melaka, or codified laws of Melaka,
Persia might spend at least a year in the port. which constantly evolved under successive
sultans. The basis for Melakan law was
The spread of Islam in Melaka is believed threefold – Hindu-Buddhist tradition,
to have taken place between 1425 and Islamic tradition, and adapt, or indigenous
1445, when Parameswara’s successors tradition. Concurrently, Melaka became a
made Islam the state religion and took the center for Islamic dissemination throughout
title of Sultan, thus giving rise to the present-day Malaysia, Indonesia, and Brunei.
Sultanate of Melaka. The adoption of Islam The state’s influence was reflected in the
helped link Melaka to the vast Muslim emergence of the Malay language as the
trading world, and by the end of the 15th language of trade throughout the region.
century it was the region’s major entrepôt,

Relief of Zheng He, Chinese temple in Semarang, Java

Sukhothai-style 1400 Parameswara founds 1425–45 Melaka ruler
vessel with lid the kingdom of Melaka adopts Islam and takes
the title of Sultan
1150 1300
1450
1238 Foundation of 1303 Terengganu
the Thai Kingdom of Stone records the Melaka tin coin, the earliest known
establishment of indigenous coins of the Malay States
Sukhothai Islamic law

42 INTRODUCING MALAYSIA AND SINGAPORE

Portuguese Conquest Looking to protect itself against its

By the 15th century, the Portuguese were enemies, the sultan forged an alliance with

eager to challenge Venice’s position as the Dutch. In 1602, all the Dutch

the sole suppliers of spices in Europe, trading enterprises in Asia

as well as to break the monopoly of combined to form The United

the Arab and Indian Muslim Netherlands Chartered East

traders over the immensely India Company (VOC), which

valuable spice trade. In 1509, an recognized the need to seize

initial Portuguese expedition control of Melaka to gain

under Admiral Lopez de Sequeira monopoly of the spice trade. In

arrived in Melaka, but was driven off 1640, the Dutch, with the help of

by the sultan’s army. A much larger Alfonso the Sultan of Johor, attacked

and better-equipped fleet, led by de Albuquerque Melaka and after a year-long siege

Admiral Alfonso de Albuquerque in 1511, succeeded in displacing the Portuguese. In

succeeded in capturing Melaka after a return for its support, Johor was granted

40-day siege, ushering in the era of trading privileges and by the end of the

European colonial powers in the region. 17th century it had grown into a powerful

Sultan Mahmud Shah escaped to the kingdom. At the height of its power it

interior of the peninsula, where his elder controlled southern Peninsular Malaysia

son, Muzaffar Shah, eventually established and part of eastern Sumatra.

the Sultanate of Perak in the north, and When the Dutch took over, much of

his younger son, Alauddin Riyat Shah, Melaka lay in ruin owing to the 1640–41

founded the Johor Sultanate in the siege. During their rule, the Dutch rebuilt

south. This period also saw the rise of the the city and many of these structures

Sumatran state of Aceh as a regional power. survive to this day. Among the prominent

Although Melaka remained a Portuguese buildings is the Stadthuys (see p128), the

colony for over a century, the period saw a oldest Dutch building in Southeast Asia.

three-way struggle between Aceh, the

sultanates of Johor and Perak, and the

Portuguese for the control of Melaka,

which lasted most of the 16th century.

The Dutch Era Dutch ships attacking a Portuguese vessel on the Indian Ocean

The new kingdom of Johor faced its own
share of assaults, from both the Portuguese
and Aceh, and it was not until the arrival of
the Dutch, toward the end of the 16th
century, that it succeeded in consolidating
its position.

1511 Portuguese 1550s Rise of 1602 United Netherlands 1641 Dutch capture
Admiral Alfonso Aceh in north Chartered East India Melaka from Portugal
de Albuquerque
seizes Melaka Sumatra Company (VOC) formed 1620

1500 1560 Coat of arms of the VOC above
one of the gates on Galle Fort,
1528–35 Sultanates of Johor Ceylon (Sri Lanka)
and Perak founded

THE HISTORY OF MALAYSIA AND SINGAPORE 43

Dutch merchant and VOC ships at Jakarta, 17th century 1786, Sir Francis Light (see p109) signed a
treaty and acquired Penang from the Sultan
Yet, over the next 180 years under the of Kedah on behalf of the company and
Dutch, Melaka’s prosperity declined as the established it as a commercial and naval
new colonial rulers concentrated on base. He also declared it as a free trading
developing their main base at Batavia, port and Penang soon thrived. After Europe’s
which is now Jakarta in Indonesia. Napoleonic Wars (1800–15), Britain emerged
as the leading power in Asia. In 1819, Sir
Borneo Stamford Raffles (see p44) repeated Light’s
work at Penang with considerable success
Until the arrival of the British, the areas that in Singapore, which also became a booming
now comprise Sarawak, Sabah, and the tiny, trade port. In 1824, Britain and the
oil-rich state of Brunei had little to do with Netherlands signed the Anglo-Dutch Treaty
the Malay peninsula. Most of Borneo, as dividing the Malay world, with the Malay
well as part of the neighboring Sulu peninsula passing to Britain and the bulk of
Archipelago (present-day Philippines), was the Indonesian Archipelago to the Dutch.
ruled by the powerful Brunei Sultanate. In Thus, Melaka passed to the British in
1704, during a period of internal unrest, exchange for Bengkulu on Sumatra,
Brunei appears to have ceded part of Sabah which went to Holland.
to the Sultan of Sulu in return for the latter’s
military assistance. The territory eventually Initial British policy towards Malaysia was
passed to Malaysia via the British, but the determinedly one of“trade, not territory,”
Philippines tried to reclaim Sabah as their and also like the Dutch, but unlike the
land after the formation of Malaysia in 1963. Portuguese, the British were not interested in
spreading Christianity, but rather in free trade
and profit. They limited their direct control to
the Straits Settlements (see pp44–5), formed
in 1826. The Malay Peninsula became part of
Britain’s sphere of influence, but remained
largely self-governing and independent.

Arrival of the British British ships arriving to take control of Melaka in 1824

Things changed dramatically in Malaysia
with the arrival of the British in the 18th
century. The British East India Company
(EIC) needed a halfway base for their
maritime trade with India and China. In

1680 Sir Stamford Raffles 1819 Sir Stamford 1826 Formation
1704 Brunei cedes part Raffles founds of the Straits
of Borneo to Sulu Singapore Settlements

1740 1800 1824 Melaka
passes to Britain
Detail of Borneo from Peter 1786 Sir Francis under the Anglo-
Plancius’s chart of Borneo, 1595 Light acquires Dutch Treaty
Penang for the
British East India
Company

44 INTRODUCING MALAYSIA AND SINGAPORE

The Straits Settlements British East India vessel off Melaka, early
19th century
Between 1826 and 1946, the British Crown held a group
of geographically separate territories consisting of
Penang, Melaka, Singapore, Province Wellesley, and
surrounding islands, under the collective name of the
Straits Settlements. Colonial influence in the area,
however, began as early as 1786, when the Sultan of
Kedah ceded Penang to the British East India Company in
exchange for protection from Siam and Burma. As other
areas came under colonial power, they were built up to
promote trade. The consequent close association of the
region is still visible today in the racial and cultural ties of
its mixed ethnic communities and the legacies of its
architectural style and landmarks.

The British in Penang employed Chinese
and Indian migrants, and sometimes
indigenous Malays, as laborers on road
construction projects throughout the island.

Colonization

The British did not arrive at the Straits Settlements
in large numbers, instead establishing themselves

as the ruling elite and employing migrants from
India, China, and other parts of the British Empire

to administer the new colonies and serve as
soldiers, laborers, and tradesmen.

Chinese junks were used extensively for
trade between the Settlements.

Stamford Raffles Sultan Abdul Hamid Halim Shah of Kedah and
his entourage in 1900. Like all sultans who reigned
One of the British Empire’s after the British took control of Penang in 1786, he
most celebrated statesmen, had no real power in the island’s government.
Sir Thomas Stamford Raffles
(1781–1826) began his
career at the age of 14 as a
clerk with the British East
India Company in London.
He worked his way up to
become Lieutenant-Governor

Sir Stamford of Java in 1811 and was
Raffles knighted in 1817. In 1819,
Raffles signed a treaty with a

local sultan, laying the foundation for modern
Singapore. Also a founder and first president
of the Zoological Society of London, he is
remembered in the name of the largest flower
in the world, the rafflesia.

THE HISTORY OF MALAYSIA AND SINGAPORE 45

Trade Penang’s first coin, bearing the
The Straits Settlements were acquired by the British to British East India Company
function as free trade ports, not to promote territorial crest, was minted in 1787
ambitions. By establishing such ports, Britain sought to in Calcutta. Sir Francis
dominate trade routes between Europe and Asia. Light is said to have fired
cannons loaded with
Spice plantations were set up in Penang to grow mace, coins into the jungle to
nutmeg, cinnamon, and pepper, which were rare and coax laborers to clear it.
valuable commodities in 18th-century Europe.
1/4 cent coins, bearing the
sovereign’s head, were
first struck in 1826, the
year the Straits Settle-
ments passed into the
hands of the British

Government.

A new port at Singapore was envisaged by
Raffles as a free port astride the sea lanes

between Europe and the Far East. Today, it is one
of the busiest ports in the world.

Culture
The Straits Settlements developed as a

fascinating melting pot of cultures.
Immigrants from Asia lived side by side with

Portuguese, Dutch, and British settlers, as
well as indigenous Malays.

Gas lighting was one of many innovations
brought by the British to the Settlements.

Peranakan culture Early Chinese settlers, as
grew alongside the well as Peranakan men, wore
development of the their hair in distinctive long
Settlements. New ponytails, or queues,
customs were born well into the late 19th
out of the marriages century. This was a sign
between the Chinese of their allegiance to
and Malay, which the Qing Empire.
blended the traditions
of each culture.
Peranakan weddings
were 14-day affairs in
which the couple
wore Chinese dress.

Kling is an outdated name for early Tamil
settlers originating from southern India.
They formed the majority of South Asian

migrants to the Straits Settlements.

46 INTRODUCING MALAYSIA AND SINGAPORE

A lithograph depicting the scene of a battle with pirates during James Brooke’s rule

The Rise of the White Rajahs indigenous people, as well as ward off

Britain did not include Borneo in the Anglo- unruly Malay pirates who wreaked havoc

Dutch Treaty, preferring to concentrate on the coast. Brooke’s rule was remarkably

their interests on the peninsula. By the late progressive, and he sought to establish

18th century, Brunei was in decline and law and order as well as welfare for the

faced increasing unrest from the local people. He gradually won

indigenous peoples as well as the trust of the indigenous

territorial claims from the Sulu communities, although he faced

Sultanate. In 1838, James Brooke, an and put down a rebellion by

explorer and former officer with the Chinese migrants in 1857. When

East India Company, set out to seek he died in 1868, James Brooke

his fortune in the East Indies. En was succeeded as rajah by his

route he passed through Singapore nephew, Charles Brooke (1829–

and was asked by the British James Brooke, the first 1917), who was responsible for
governor to deliver a message to White Rajah of Sarawak
Rajah Muda Hashim, Governor of expanding the territory of

Sarawak at the expense of the

Kuching in Sarawak. Brooke arrived in shrinking Brunei Sultanate. During his reign,

Sarawak in 1839 to find the territory in a Sarawak also became a British protectorate

state of revolt, with the indigenous Dayaks in 1888, with the Brooke family retaining

rising up against the Sultan of Brunei. He control of the internal administration.

was enlisted to help the sultan and together

they crushed the rebellion within a year. Expansion of British Control

As a reward, in 1841, the sultan made In the mid-19th century, Sabah remained

Brooke the Rajah of Sarawak, the first of under the loose control of Brunei (with Sulu

three White Rajahs (see p163). Brooke, chiefs exercising authority at a local level).

backed by British naval power, used his Enfeebled by internal disputes, Brunei

position to consolidate his rule over the sought to lease the territory, first to Claude

1847 Signing of the 1850 Signing the treaty for the cession 1874 Treaty of Pangkor
treaty of Labuan of Labuan, Borneo, in 1846 signed; first

1840 1865 Brunei leases Sabah to Claude Lee British Resident
Moses, the American consul installed in Perak
1841 James Brooke
becomes the first 1860 1870
White Rajah
1857 Brooke puts down Charles Brooke, 1868 Death of
Chinese rebellion second White James Brooke,
Charles Brooke
Rajah of Sarawak succeeds

THE HISTORY OF MALAYSIA AND SINGAPORE 47

Lee Moses, the American consul in

Brunei, in 1865, then to Baron von

Overbeck, the Austrian consul in

Hong Kong in 1875, and finally to

Englishman Alfred Dent, who

established the British North Borneo

Company (BNBC) in 1881. In 1888,

Sabah, along with Sarawak, came

under British government protection.

Like the White Rajahs, however, the

company retained control of internal British officials with the sultans of the Federated Malay States

administration. A resistance move-

ment started by Mat Salleh in 1895 against This revolt was quickly quashed, and the

the company’s rule was not defeated until process of appointing British Residents

1905 (five years after Mat Salleh’s death). continued. In 1896, the states of Pahang,

Following that, Sabah remained a quiet Selangor, and Negeri Sembilan joined Perak

colonial backwater. as part of the British-controlled Federated

At about the same time, the British began Malay States, which were administered

to refine their policies of non-intervention in from the Sultan Abdul Samad Building in

the Malay peninsular states. The booming Kuala Lumpur. In 1909, under the terms of

tin industry had attracted large numbers of the Anglo-Siamese Treaty, the former Thai

Chinese immigrants to the states of Perak tributaries of Kelantan, Terengganu, Kedah,

and Selangor. This led to ethnic clashes with and Perlis, joined by Johor in 1914, came

the Malays, as well as to civil disorders under the system of British Residents,

caused by Chinese criminal gangs. Infighting becoming known as the Unfederated

also raged in various Malay sultanates. The Malay States. Thus, together with the Straits

British feared that another major European Settlements and Sabah, Sarawak, and

power, notably Germany, might exploit Brunei, British consolidation of power over

these weaknesses to gain a foothold on the Malaya was complete by World War I.

Malaysian mainland. Hence, in 1874,

through the Treaty of Pangkor, the first

British Resident was appointed in Perak,

whom the sultan agreed to consult on all

issues except those involving Muslim

religion and Malay custom. However,

increased British control of judicial and

financial affairs sparked unrest amongst the

Perak Malays and led to the murder of the

first Resident, J W W Birch, in 1875. Sultan Abdul Samad Building, Kuala Lumpur

1877 Brunei Stamp issued by the BNBC 1895 Mat Salleh resistance 1909 Unfederated
renews lease movement begins in Sabah Malay States
on Sabah to 1888 British Resident formed
Overbeck appointed in Pahang 1896 Creation of the
Federated Malay States

1880 1890 1900 1910

1881 Alfred Dent sets up 1888 Sarawak and Sabah 1914 Johor joins the
the BNBC become British protectorates Unfederated Malay States

1877 Rubber tree introduced via Brazil, Kew Gardens, and Sir Frank Swettenham, first Resident-
Ceylon (Sri Lanka) to the Botanic Gardens in Singapore General of the Federated Malay States

48 INTRODUCING MALAYSIA AND SINGAPORE

ethnic lines also began to grow. The advent
of World War II ensured that colonial life
would never be the same.

World War II

Troops of the Japanese Imperial Army

landed on the east coast of the peninsula in

December 1941. Within 2 months, they had

conquered it, and Singapore and Borneo as

A British rubber planter overseeing Indian workers, Malaysia well. For the next 3 years they would unleash

Colonial Life a particularly ruthless regime. The sook ching
(purification by elimination) massacres in the

Having taken charge of the entire peninsula, first months of Japanese rule involved the

the British turned their energies towards deaths of 40,000–70,000 ethnic Chinese in

developing a productive economy. Penin- Singapore alone. About 75,000 Malaysians,

sular Malaysia emerged in the 20th century mostly Indian Tamils, were recruited to work

as the world’s leading producer of both on the Burma–Thailand“Death”Railway. With

rubber and tin. In Borneo, Sarawak was a malnourishment, appalling working cond-

securely established and relatively itions, and the brutality of the Japanese over-

prosperous territory by the time Charles seers, death rates escalated to 40 percent.

Vyner Brooke took over as Some Malaysians

the third White Rajah in resisted, notably the

1917, while Sabah was guerrilla units of the

profiting from the timber, Malayan Communist

rubber, and tobacco Party (MCP), armed by

industries. Large-scale British saboteurs in the

immigration from underground Force

India and China was 136. At the same time,

encouraged to supply the Japanese troops marching through downtown Singapore to bolster their rule,

workforce for the colonial in December 1941 the Japanese

economy. The Malays were recognized as encouraged radical Malayan nationalists

indigenous people, but were largely to organize paramilitary and political

encouraged to stay in their villages. By the organizations. Hopelessly overstretched

late 1930s, ordinary Malays were less well throughout Asia and the Pacific, Japanese

off than the urban Chinese, and in danger rule had induced economic chaos in the

of becoming a minority in their own Malay peninsula and Borneo by 1944. But it

homeland. The stage had been set for was the dropping of atomic bombs on

decades of racial tensions. Politicization and Hiroshima and Nagasaki in August 1945

elite sentiment for independence along that finally forced Japan to surrender.

Charles Vyner Brooke

1930s Chinese begin to 1941 Japanese invasion
join the Malayan of Malaya and
Communist Party Singapore

1918 1923 1928 1933 1938

1917 Charles Vyner Brooke, third and 1926 Singapore HMS Prince of Wales, sunk off
last White Rajah of Sarawak Malay Union the coast of Terengganu by
(1917–46) formed Japanese bombers in 1941

THE HISTORY OF MALAYSIA AND SINGAPORE 49

Declaration of independence from British rule by Tunku Abdul Rahman in August 1957

The Emergency intelligence supplies. The MCP leaders
finally fled to Thailand in the late 1950s, and
In the reoccupation, the first British step was by 1960 the government of independent
to establish the Malayan Union in 1946. This Malaya declared the Emergency over.
united all the peninsular states into a central
administration under British rule and granted Merdeka (Independence)
equal citizenship rights to all ethnic groups.
Singapore, Sabah, and Sarawak were to be Parallel to their campaign against the MRLA,
governed separately as crown colonies. the British pursued talks with anti-communist
Malay nationalists, promising independence.
The union was strongly opposed by the In 1955, elections were held to determine the
Malay population and led to the formation government for the new country. This was
of the first Malay political party, the United won by the Alliance Party, formed by the
Malays National Organization (UMNO). The UMNO, the Malayan Chinese Association, and
Malayan Union was subsequently replaced the Malayan Indian Congress. On August 31,
by the Federation of Malaya, which excluded 1957, Malaya gained independence, with
Singapore, and granted special rights to the Tunku Abdul Rahman as its first prime
Malays. However, the Chinese were dis- minister. Sarawak, Sabah, and Singapore
satisfied with this development, and in June remained crown colonies, although
1948, the Malayan Races Liberation Army Singapore became self-governing in 1959. In
(MRLA), the armed wing of the MCP, returned 1961, a new federation uniting the peninsular
to the jungle under the leadership of Chin states, Singapore, Sarawak, Sabah, and Brunei,
Peng to begin an insurgency against the was proposed. Despite the opposition from
British. So began the hard-fought Emergency. Indonesia and the Philippines, the planned
union went ahead, and Malaysia was
Chin Peng’s war was ultimately doomed. proclaimed on September 16, 1963, but
Few Malays or Indians supported the MCP, without Brunei, which opted out.
while the resettlement of 400,000 rural
Chinese cut off the guerrillas from food and

1946 Malayan 1948 State of Emergency Tunku Abdul Rahman signing Federation of
Union declared, which lasts until 1960; Malaya (Independence) Agreement, 1957
Federation of Malaya replaces
established; the Malayan Union 1961 Tunku Abdul Rahman
UMNO set up proposes a new Malaysian
Federation

1943 1948 1953 1958 1963

1945 Japanese 1953 Alliance 1957 Malaya attains 1959 Singapore 1963 Malaysia
surrender; British Party formed independence; granted internal self- established;
reoccupy Borneo, Tunku Abdul government; Lee Brunei opts out
Malaya, and Kuan Yew is first
Singapore Rahman becomes prime minister
first prime minister