DK Eyewitness Travel Malaysia _ Singapore 2016

200 MALAYSIA REGION BY REGION

f Pulau Sipadan

Rated among the world’s top five dive sites,
Pulau Sipadan is a limestone spire rising about
1,970 ft (600 m) from the sea-bed. Fringed
with white and sandy beaches, the island is
surrounded by a stunning coral reef teeming
with over 3,000 species of marine life, including
colorful butterflyfish, angelfish, and bright
orange and electric-blue damselfish. Sightings
of sharks, barracudas, turtles, and manta rays
are also common in the waters around the reef.

. Turtle Cavern Semporna;
The eerie Turtle Cavern is an underwater cave Mabul &
stacked with the skeletal remains of green and Kapalai
hawksbill turtles that drifted into it and never islands
found their way out.

. The Drop Off
Just east of the
Sipadan jetty, the
Drop Off is a
seemingly endless wall
of rock covered with
several species of
corals and sponges.

Diving Trips Key
Several tour operators arrange day and night dives, but only 120 divers
are permitted to dive at the site each day. Qualified personnel Ferry route
accompany visitors on each diving trip.
Hanging Gardens
KEY The reef descends
gradually to a depth of
1 Lobster Lairs is a good place 230 ft (70 m), where
for spotting lionfish, lobsters, terraces covered with
scorpionfish, and pipefish. This alcyonarian and gor-
shallow dive site is an ideal spot gonian fan corals form
for beginners. the Hanging Gardens.
2 Coral Garden, where almost
every species that inhabits these
waters can be viewed, is a joy for the
underwater photographer.
3 Mid Reef
4 South Point, a site for
experienced divers, is popular for
frequent sightings of hammerhead
sharks and turtles.

For hotels and restaurants see p282 and pp298–9

SABAH 201

Barracuda Point VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
The site is named for
the spectacular spirals Practical Information
of blacktail and 21 miles (35 km) S of Semporna.
chevron barracuda that 8 Borneo Sea Adventures:
come here to feed 8A Karamunsing Warehouse,
along a wall that Kota Kinabalu; (088) 230-000.
harbors turtles and ® Semporna; Mabul and Kapalai
parrotfish. islands. Best time for visiblility:
Apr–Aug, when stays must be
booked well in advance.

Transport
g from Semporna.

0 meters 300
0 yards 300

. White-Tip Avenue
A gap in the coral reef, White-Tip Avenue is frequented
by white-tip sharks and gray reef sharks. Divers may
encounter a school of bigeye trevallies and
bumphead parrotfish.

Turtle Patch
This site offers frequent sightings of
hammerhead and thresher sharks, triggerfish,
bumphead parrotfish, and the green and hawksbill
turtles that are commonly seen around Sipadan.

Staghorn Crest
This is a drop-off dive site with a fabulous
garden of giant staghorn corals teeming
with shoals of gobies, groupers, angelfish,
and triggerfish. Currents can be strong here
and divers need to be careful.

For keys to symbols see back flap



SINGAPORE
AREA BY AREA

Introducing Singapore 204–211

The Colonial Core and 212–229
Chinatown

Little India and Orchard Road 230–241

Farther Afield 242–251

Shopping in Singapore 252–257

Entertainment in 258–261
Singapore

Outdoor Activities in 262–263
Singapore

Singapore Street Finder 264–273

204 SINGAPORE AREA BY AREA

INTRODUCING
SINGAPORE

The small city-state of Singapore is bustling, cosmopolitan, trendy, modern,
and plays a part on the world’s financial and political stage that seems
disproportionate to its size. Its varied traditions and intriguing mix of the
old and new (in its people and way of life) make Singapore a great
multicultural city in the truest sense.

Located at the tip of the Malay Peninsula by the People’s Action Party, led by the late
on the Strait of Malacca, Singapore consists statesman Lee Kuan Yew from its inception
of one large island encircled by several in the 1960s right up to the 1990s. Even
smaller islets. Gleaming high-rise buildings with the presence of an active opposition,
and a fascinating diversity of foliage are a one-party system has prevailed on the
crammed into a tiny area of just 269 sq m whole. While critics deem it autocratic, the
(697 sq km), some of it reclaimed land. party is seen as having been instrumental
Humidity and heavy downpours define its in helping Singapore become the super-
climate; showers are so sudden that the developed, modern nation that it is today.
umbrella is a must-have accessory. Singaporeans give particular credit to Lee
Kuan Yew, who remains unrivaled in
When Sir Stamford Raffles of the British popularity as a nation builder.
East India Company landed on its shores
in 1819, Singapore was little more than a The Economy
nondescript fishing village. However, the
town soon went on to become a British Singapore has a highly successful and
stronghold. After gaining independence transparent economy. Despite accusations
from the British, Singapore was of the government having too many
incorporated into the Federation of stakes in the market, the economy is
Malaysia in 1963, and went on to become believed to be among the most powerful
a wholly independent nation in 1965. in the world, chiefly because of
government efficiency, the exceptional
Government and Politics infrastructure, minimal corruption, and a
skilled workforce. Singapore’s economy
Singapore is a democratic republic that thrives on the electronics and chemical
follows the British parliamentary system, sectors, as well as business and financial
with a government led by a prime minister. services. Due to its strategic location
Political affairs have long been dominated

Towering skyscrapers dominate Singapore’s skyline
Neo-Classical civic buildings of Singapore with, south of the river, the financial district in the background

INTRODUCING SINGAPORE 205

of the 1960s, society has been
considerably harmonized, with
the government making every
effort to keep it so.

Ornately dressed performers of the Chinese opera Culture and the Arts
The arts flourish in this diverse
linking the mainland and the islands of city. Chinese opera and drama,
Southeast Asia with the rest of the world, Western classical music, Indian
Singapore has the busiest port in the classical dance forms, and
region. Canned food, biotechnology, English theater are all part of
rubber processing, and tourism have local culture, and several theater
emerged as other key revenue- and dance ensembles keep
generating industries. Malay culture alive. However,
government censorship is rigid;
Peoples, Languages, and Religions each performance needs a seal of
approval before being shown to the
Singapore is a country of immigrants, public. A plethora of museums, festivals,
with a multiracial ethnicity comprising and religious places complement the
74.2 percent Chinese, 13.3 percent Malay, visual arts.
and 9.2 percent Indians, with a small Food is an integral part of Singaporean
number of Western expatriates. Ethnic culture, and eating out is considered the
neighborhoods, the norm in the 19th best way of socializing. Although Chinese,
century, have given way to government- Indian, and Malay flavors dominate,
provided public housing. Old enclaves international cuisine ranging from African
that have been left behind are now used to Eastern European is also widely
only for shopping or entertainment available. Being a food haven has added to
that is unique to that particular the popularity of this gateway between
community. The cultural heritage of the the East and the West, and it remains as
British colonialists is also deeply woven alluring today as it was centuries ago.
into the Singaporean lifestyle.
Worshipers at Sri Mariamman Temple
Malay, Mandarin Chinese, English,
and Tamil are all official languages in
Singapore. The unique “Singlish” – a
patois that combines English with Malay
and Chinese words and intonation –
is understood by most resident
Singaporeans but rarely by visitors.

Except for certain radical groups that
are banned, religion is freely practiced.
Mahayana Buddhism is the most
common, followed by Islam, Christianity,
and Hinduism. Since the racial riots

206 SINGAPORE AREA BY AREA

SINGAPORE THROUGH
THE YEAR

Singapore’s multicultural heritage has Year and Hari Raya Puasa, are celebrated
resulted in a calendar studded with holidays with pomp and pageantry all over the
and vibrant festivals, both secular and island, others are quieter local market and
religious. Many of the religious festivals are temple affairs. Visitors are welcome in
based on the lunar calendar (see p321), so temples and mosques as long as customs
their dates vary annually. Check with the are respected. Other cultural events such
Singapore Tourism Board for exact timings. as the Singapore Arts Festival further add
While some festivities, such as Chinese New to the year’s festivities.

Paying respect to elders on Hari Raya Puasa floats, and other multicultural day. Monks chant prayers at
performers travels down packed Buddhist temples and
January to March Orchard Road. caged birds are set free to
Qing Ming Festival (Mar/Apr). symbolize kindness. In the
Ponggal (Jan/Feb). A Tamil Chinese families visit temples evening, candlelit processions
(south Indian) harvest festival and ancestral graves to clean set out from the temples.
celebrated at temples such as and restore them. Red candles Thian Hock Keng Temple (see
the Sri Srinivasa Perumal Temple and joss sticks are lit and pp228–9) is a good place to
(see pp236–7). Rice is cooked in offerings of rice, wine, and see celebrations.
new pots and allowed to boil flowers are made. Singapore International
over to symbolize prosperity. It Festival of Arts (May/Jun).
is then offered to the gods as Lion dance performance during the Chinese Organized by the National Arts
thanksgiving. New Year Council, this premier arts festival
Thaipusam (Jan/Feb). A Hindu has a captivating program of
festival of penance in honor April to June local, regional, and international
of Lord Murugan. Male art, drama, dance, and music.
devotees carry kavadis, or Vesak day (May/Jun). Dragon Boat Festival and Boat
steel arches, anchored to their Buddhists commemorate the Race (Jun). This festival
skin with hooks, in a long birth, enlightenment, and commemorates the death of
procession from the Sri Srinivasa death, of the Buddha on this the 4th-century Chinese poet
Perumal Temple to the Qu Yuan, who drowned himself
Chettiar Temple (see p223). in protest against political
Chinese New Year (Jan/Feb). corruption. It is said that people
This vibrant Chinese festival is searched for him in boats,
a two-week celebration beating drums and throwing
culminating with Chap Goh rice dumplings into the water to
Mei, marked by a final dinner distract the fish from attacking
and prayers. Chinatown is his body. Today, international
ablaze with lights and packed teams compete in dragon-
with shoppers. shaped boats to honor this
Chingay Parade (Jan/Feb). Part event. The colorful spectacle
of the New Year festivities, a takes place at Bedok Reservoir,
grand, lively parade of which is a 20-minute taxi ride
stiltwalkers, lion dancers, from the city center.

July to September

Great Singapore Sale (May/Jul).
Shops throughout the island
hold sales during this period –
the discounts can be extremely
enticing (see p253).
Singapore Food Festival (Jul).
Demonstrations from top chefs
and special food markets draw
large crowds.
National Day (Aug 9).
Singapore’s Independence Day

INTRODUCING SINGAPORE 207

is celebrated with a spectacular

show at the Padang. The

highlights include military

parades, an airforce flypast, and

cultural performances, with a

laser and fireworks display as a

final flourish.

Festival of the Hungry Ghosts

(Aug/Sep). The Chinese believe

that during the seventh lunar

month, souls of the dead return

to earth to feast. Joss sticks, red

candles, and paper money are

burnt, and lavish feasts and

dramatic Chinese street operas,

wayang (see p260), are held to

appease the spirits.

Mid-Autumn Festival (Aug/Sep).

The full moon on the 15th day

of the eighth month in the

Chinese calendar is celebrated Lantern competition at the Chinese Garden during Mid-Autumn Festival

with mooncakes and lanterns.

Traditionally a thanksgiving for a Sultan Mosque and Arab led by temple mediums with

bountiful harvest, the festival Street (see p234) come alive swords and whips. During

also commemorates a with festivities. this festival, many devotees

14th-century Chinese patriot Deepavali (Oct/Nov). The also make a pilgrimage to

who is said to have hidden Hindu festival of lights marks the temple of Tua Pek Kong

notes to his companions in Lord Krishna’s victory over on Kusu Island (Turtle Island).

mooncakes while trying to Narakasura – a triumph of good ZoukOut (Dec). Around

overthrow the Yuan Dynasty. over evil. Homes and temples 40,000 people party at this

Singapore Grand Prix (Sep). are decorated with oil lamps to annual outdoor dance music

Formula 1 cars race through the attract Lakshmi, the goddess of festival on Sentosa.

streets of Marina Bay in a prosperity, and Little India Christmas (25 Dec). From

spectacular night-time race on dazzles with lights and mid-November onwards,

an illuminated track. decorations. The precise date is Orchard Road is transformed

established each year according into a stunning stretch of

October to December to the Indian almanacs. bright fairy lights and
Thimithi Festival (Oct/Nov). A Christmas decorations.

Hari Raya Puasa (Sep–Oct). A festival procession begins at the Hari Raya Haji (variable). A

day of celebration for the Sri Srinivasa Perumal Temple festival in honor of those

Muslim community to mark the and makes its way to the Sri Muslims who have made the

end of Ramadan, the Muslim Mariamman Temple (see p224) pilgrimage to Mecca. It is

holy month. Areas such as where devotees prove the marked by animal sacrifices

strength of their faith and prayers at mosques.

by walking barefoot

across a stretch of

burning hot coals. Public Holidays

Festival of the Nine Local festivals follow the
Emperor Gods lunar calendar, and the dates
(Oct/Nov). A nine-day are variable.
festival in honor of the

Nine Emperor Gods, New Year’s Day (Jan 1)
thought to bring good Hari Raya Puasa (variable)
luck and longevity, is Chinese New Year (Jan/Feb)
celebrated at Kiu Ong Hari Raya Haji (variable)
Yiah Temple on Upper

Serangoon Road. Good Friday (Mar/Apr)

Prayers, feasts, Labor Day (May 1)
and Chinese opera Vesak Day (May/Jun)
performances are National Day (Aug 9)
followed by a Deepavali (Oct/Nov)
procession of the

nine gods seated on Christmas Day (Dec 25)

Offerings at the family altar during Deepavali elaborate chairs,



INTRODUCING SINGAPORE 209

SINGAPORE AT A GLANCE

While most of Singapore’s attractions lie glitzy shopping malls, museums, and
at the heart of the city, south of the island, contemporary entertainment, a traditional
its compactness and efficient infrastructure Singapore survives beneath its glossy
make it easy to visit the outer reaches. exterior. At its core is a multicultural
The north, west, and east are studded heritage, revealed in the timeless elegance
with older suburbs, nature reserves, and of colonial architecture, Chinatown’s
historic sites. Despite being a model shophouses, and the uniquely juxtaposed
modern metropolis with skyscrapers, temples, mosques, and churches.

Singapore’s Top Ten Attractions

Raffles Hotel Orchard Road
See pp220–21 See pp238–41

Chinatown Little India Singapore Botanic Gardens
See pp224–9 See pp230–37 See pp246–7

Singapore Flyer Sentosa Chijmes
See p218 See pp250–51 See p218

Boat Quay Gardens by the Bay
See p227 See p217

The Supertree Grove in the Gardens by the Bay

210 SINGAPORE AREA BY AREA UOB Plaza’s
entrance lobby is
The Singapore River embellished with
sculptures by Dali
The Singapore River winds through the heart of the and Botero.
main city and has long been the hub of its life and
commerce. Flanked by the towering skyscrapers of the
financial district on the southern bank and the stately
colonial buildings on the northern bank, the river is
lined with leafy walkways, shops, and eateries. River
cruises depart from several piers along the bank.

Cavenagh Bridge Asian Civilizations
Signs restricting horse-drawn Museum (see p216)
carriages still stand at the city’s
only suspension bridge. Raffles’ Landing Site
A plaque below a polymarble
The Fullerton Hotel’s statue of Raffles marks the site of
colonial façade domin- his original landing in 1819.
ates the entrance to
the river. The present
building replaced Fort
Fullerton in 1925.

Merlion
This mythical
half-fish, half-lion
symbol of
Singapore
guards the river
as it opens into
Marina Bay.

Anderson Bridge Parliament Complex
This bridge was built in 1910 to Opened in 1999, the new Parliament House complements the
relieve the increasing traffic on Victorian style of the original parliament building (see p217),
Cavenagh Bridge. dating to 1827.

INTRODUCING SINGAPORE 211

Boat Quay
Bars and restaurants
bring new life to the
restored row of old
trading houses lining the
southern bank of the
river (see p227).

Elgin Bridge Clarke Quay
The present bridge was built in 1929 Refurbished warehouses form a
on the site of the first one across the colorful backdrop to this lively shopping
river, and is named for Lord Elgin, and eating area (see p223).
then Governor General of India.
Swissotel Merchant
Court Hotel Riverside Point
is a shopping
mall that leads
to Merchant
Square and
Central Mall.

River taxi kiosk

Read
Bridge

To
Robertson
Quay

Hill Street
Building

0 meters 100
0 yards 100

Coleman Bridge
This bridge was named for George D Coleman,

the architect who designed much of
Singapore’s urban landscape.



SINGAPORE AREA BY AREA 213

THE COLONIAL CORE
AND CHINATOWN

Sir Stamford Raffles’ city plan of 1822 lies the flourishing Central Business District,
designated the south of the river as the also known as the Golden Shoe due to its
commercial district, and reserved the north shoe-shaped district boundary. Adjoining
for administrative offices. This northern the business district lies Chinatown. As
area is known today as the Colonial Core. trading houses grew along the south bank
It is the heart of downtown Singapore and is in the 19th century, coolies and Chinese
dotted with historical landmarks. The Padang merchants settled in the area and Raffles
and Fort Canning Park are focal points of this officially allocated it to the community. It is
area and have witnessed major events in characterized by distinctive shophouses,
Singapore’s history. To the south of the river temples, and markets.

Sights at a Glance Churches and Temples See also Street Finder
maps 4 & 5
Attractions 0 St. Andrew’s Cathedral
t Cathedral of the Good Shepherd
9 Singapore Flyer i Armenian Church
p Chettiar Temple
Historic Streets, Buildings, d Sri Mariamman Temple
and Monuments h Buddha Tooth Relic Temple and

1 Raffles’ Landing Site Museum
4 Victoria Theater and Concert Hall x Thian Hock Keng Temple pp228–9
5 Old Parliament House
7 Marina Bay Sands ST M
w Raffles Hotel pp220–21 IDDLE
e Chijmes RD
a Clarke Quay FORT CANNING ROAD BRAS ROAD ROCHOR
s Chinatown Heritage Center CEOSNPNLSATAUANRGNOHADTARDDEDERRWL’IASDFNFRKILNEVSOBEROTTUELHEAMVRAASSMREBNTEIKDR IN ICDAOGBNELELAHCIRHGOHARDVWOIAACTDOQRIUAEWBESAETTNEN SRCLTOOOO LSETN
f Temple Street CANNING R I S E JAMIN SHEARESYRO
j Tanjong Pagar Conservation Area RA C
k Ann Siang Hill TRADNK FORT R BASAH AD ASEK AVENUE
l Telok Ayer Street COX T E
z Lau Pa Sat CANNING STAMFORD RD ROAD TEM
c Raffles Place COLEMAN City Hall
v Boat Quay PARK E
ST
Museums and Galleries CLEMENCEAU AVERIVER RAFFLES BOULEVARD
VALLEY ROAD HIGH RAFFLES AVENUE
2 Asian Civilisations Museum STREET BRIDGE
6 National Gallery Singapore Clarke
r Singapore Art Museum Quay
y National Museum of
BRIDGE Singapore
Singapore ECIRCULAR
u Peranakan Museum
BEN
Parks and Gardens HACRVDhELiOnCaKtowUnPPNERCSPTAICNKAERLINRGD Singapore River

3 Esplanade Park GE NEW RD River
8 Gardens by the Bay RD
o Fort Canning Park MOSTSQUE C H ULIA ST
SPLANADE DRIVRaffles
Shopping AVE
T PARKWAYPlace
q Raffles City CROSS CHURC H
g Chinatown Complex SOUTH BRID ST PEKIN ST E S
E RWLOAABCIYGENCOSILROOANNFSRFTLOIRLTEAENEEDLSKTOQKUAAYAEY RMOSYT ST
ST T
A

BRIDGE RAFFLES BEAAYSFTRCOON
RD QUAY PARK

NEWBUKIT PRADSOHCANTONMENT RD RDRD MAXWELL ROAD M ARIN A
L B LV D
NEI R
Tanjong
YAN KIT RD PagarONGPA G A CENTRAL
ST

SEAH ST

J

TAN NTON B LV D
TRAS
PECK

ANSON RD 0 meters 500

SH E

0 yards 500

Guardians and dragons depicted on the lacquered doors of the Thian Hock Keng Temple For keys to symbols see back flap

214 SINGAPORE AREA BY AREA

Street-by-Street: Around 6. National
the Padang Gallery Singapore
The gallery occupies
The heart of Singapore’s colonial district is the Padang, imposing former
or square, which was once used by the 19th-century civic buildings.
colonials as a site for big sporting events as well as
National Day parades. Sporting activities from cricket
and field hockey to soccer and rugby still take place here
on a weekly basis. The square is flanked by grand Neo-
Classical buildings such as the former Supreme Court
and City Hall (now revamped as the National Gallery
Singapore), the Parliament House, and the exclusive
Singapore Cricket Club. Also of interest here is Esplanade
Park, which lies on the eastern side of the Padang. One
of the oldest parks in Singapore, it is home to many
historical landmarks.

4. Victoria Theater and Concert Hall PARLIAM
Built in 1862, the Victoria Theater was originally the Town ENT
Hall. The Victoria Memorial Hall was added in 1905 to PLACE
commemorate the death of Queen Victoria. Its name
was later changed to the Victoria Concert Hall OLD
PARLIAM
Asian Civilisations ENT
Museum LANE

Raffles’
Landing Site

To the
Boat Quay

5 Old Parliament House
Constructed in 1827, this
building was originally
commissioned as a
private residence for a
Scottish merchant,
John Argyle Maxwell.

The Time Capsule
Located in front of Empress Place, a small
pyramid houses a time capsule prepared

in 1990 to mark the 25th anniversary of
Singapore’s independence.

For hotels and restaurants see pp282–3 and pp299–300

THE COLONIAL CORE AND CHINATOWN 215

The Padang LITTLE INDIA AND
This field has hosted cricket ORCHARD ROAD
since the 1830s. Today, sporting
THE COLONIAL
events such as the Rugby CORE AND
Sevens are held here. CHINATOWN

To St. Andrew’s Cathedral & Locator Map
Raffles City See Street Finder map 5

S T. A N D R E W’ S Key
ROAD Suggested route

0 meters 100
0 yards 100

CONNAUGHT Esplanade Park
DRIVE
W
ALK

ELIZABETH Lim Bo Seng Memorial
This structure is a tribute
Q to Chinese war hero
UEEN Lim Bo Seng who worked
with British covert forces
until he was caught and
tortured to death by
Japanese forces in 1944.

D
A
RO
N
LLERTO
FU
To Merlion
Park Singapore Cricket Club
Memorial Obelisk Built around 1884, the club is a distinctive,

Cavenagh Bridge squat building with dark green bamboo
shutters. This members-only club was

originally intended exclusively for expatriates.

To Raffles Place

216 SINGAPORE AREA BY AREA

Statue of Sir Stamford Raffles at the was built by convicts and first waterfront, the huge, spiked
original landing site functioned as a courthouse. shells of the complex contain a
plethora of performing arts
Today, this Neo-Classical venues, including a concert hall,
structure showcases a wealth theater, outdoor theater, and
of exhibits in 11 themed gal- recital studio, as well as gallery
leries and four ACE (Asian space, a performing arts library,
Civilizations Education) Zones: and a shopping mall.
South Asia, West Asia/Islam,
Southeast Asia, and China. 4 Victoria Theater
There is also a fascinating and Concert Hall
Singapore River Interpretive
Gallery where the story of 9 Empress Place. Map 5 E2. Tel 6338-
generations of immigrants who 8283 (theater); 6338-6124, 6339-6120
settled and worked on the (concert hall). q Raffles Place, City
banks of the Singapore River is Hall. @ 75, 540, 608. Open check
told using old photographs. website for opening times. 7 - =
∑ nach.gov.sg
1 Raffles’ Landing 3 Esplanade Park
Site A splendid example of colonial
Connaught Drive. Map 5 E3. q City architecture, Victoria Theater
North Boat Quay. Map 5 D3. Hall. @ 10, 70, 75, 82, 97, 100, 130, was built in 1862 by the British
q Raffles Place, City Hall. @ 7, 32, 131, 167, 196, 608. to showcase amateur dramatic
51, 81, 124, 145, 197, 603, 851. productions and Gilbert and
Running along Connaught Sullivan operettas. The Victoria
A statue of Sir Stamford Raffles Drive from the underpass at Memorial Hall was added in
gazing upon the flourishing Anderson Bridge to Stamford 1905 to celebrate Queen
Central Business District, Road, Esplanade Park was one Victoria’s jubilee. The Memorial
complete with a plinth, marks of the most popular outdoor Hall was renamed Victoria
the spot where he first set foot spots for both the European Concert Hall in 1980 when it
on Singapore soil, on the and Asian communities during became home to the Singapore
morning of January 29, 1819 the colonial era. Symphony Orchestra (see p260).
(see p210). The modern poly-
marble statue is a replica of the The park contains Queen Over the years, the hall has
original bronze work cast by Elizabeth Walk and several been put to a variety of uses.
British sculptor-poet, Thomas landmarks, including the During World War II, it was con-
Woolner, which was unveiled Cenotaph, which commemo- verted into a hospital. Its clock
on the Padang on June 27, rates those who lost their lives tower was set to Tokyo time
1887. The original statue, which during the two World Wars; the when Japan occupied the
narrowly escaped being melted Lim Bo Seng Memorial, which island, and after the Japanese
down during the Japanese eulogizes the World War II hero surrender, it was here that the
invasion, now stands in front of who died in Japanese captivity; war crimes tribunals were held.
the Victoria Concert Hall. and the Tan Kim Seng Fountain,
which was built in honor of the The two buildings are the
2 Asian philanthropist who set up venue for a range of concerts,
Civilisations Singapore’s first freshwater performances, and multi-
Museum supply. When Esplanade – cultural extravaganzas (see
Theatres on the Bay was built, pp258–9). Tickets can be
1 Empress Place. Map 5 D3. there was debate over the obtained at the box office or at
Tel 6332-2982. q Raffles Place, City radical architecture of the new outlets in Singapore’s main
Hall. @ 75, 540, 608. Open 10am– building. Located on the shopping areas.
7pm daily (to 9pm Fri). 7 0 =
∑ acm.org.sg

Home to over 1,600 artifacts The massive riverside complex of Esplanade – Theaters on the Bay
that trace the history of the
varied cultures and civilizations
of Asia, the Asian Civilisations
Museum is housed in the
restored Empress Place
Building. Named in honor of
Queen Victoria and completed
in 1867, the Palladian structure

For hotels and restaurants see pp282–3 and pp299–300

THE COLONIAL CORE AND CHINATOWN 217

access the Skypark with its
infinity pool set on top of the
world’s largest public
cantilevered platform. This tops
the complex and overhangs
the north tower.

8 Gardens by
the Bay

The Neo-Palladian façade of the Old Parliament House 18 Marina Gardens Drive. Map 5 F3.
Tel 6420-6848. q Bayfront. @ 400.
5 Old Parliament 6 National Gallery Open 5am–2am daily. Conservatories
9am–9pm; last ticket sold 8pm, last
House Singapore entry 8:30pm. Skyway 9am–9pm.
& for conservatories. 8 9am,
1 Old Parliament Lane. Map 5 D3. 1 Saint Andrew’s Road. Map 5 D2. Tel 11am, 2pm & 4pm daily.
Tel 6332-6900. q City Hall, 6690-9400. q City Hall. @ 7, 32, 51, ∑ gardensbythebay.com.sg
Raffles Place. @ 7, 32, 51, 81, 124, 81, 124, 145, 197, 603, 851. Open see Covering a vast area alongside
145, 197, 603, 851. Open 10am– website. & ∑ nationalgallery.sg the waterfront, this award-
9pm Mon–Fri, 11am–9pm Sat. winning horticultural attraction
Box office opens 90 mins before Right in the heart of the Civic offers more than 250,000 rare
Sun events. & only for tours. District, two striking buildings – plants in landscaped gardens
8 11am & 3pm daily. 0 - = the City Hall and the former and conservatories. The
∑ theartshouse.com.sg Supreme Court – have been outdoor gardens are divided
refurbished and reborn as the into three spaces – Bay South,
Singapore’s oldest surviving largest visual arts space in Bay East, and Bay Central.
government building, the Singapore, dedicated to the Highlights include the Heritage
Old Parliament House was display, promotion, research, Gardens, where plants are
originally built as the residence and study of Southeast Asian linked to the main ethnic
of Scottish merchant John and Singapore art, while also groups in Singapore, and the
Argyle Maxwell in the late hosting touring international Supertree Grove – 16-story-high
1820s. It was designed in art exhibitions. vertical gardens that collect
Neo-Palladian style by G D rainwater, generate solar power,
Coleman, an architect who was 7 Marina Bay Sands and act as venting ducts for the
to shape much of Singapore’s conservatories. Suspended
urban landscape. Maxwell 10 Bayfront Avenue. Map 5 F3. between two Supertrees is the
leased it to the government Tel 6688-8868. q Bayfront. @ 97, OCBC Skyway. This walkway
for use as a courthouse. In the 106, 133, 502, 518. 0 = offers visitors a bird’s-eye view
1950s, it became the colonial ∑ marinabaysands.com of the gardens and the Marina
government’s Assembly House, Bay area. A dazzling sound and
and, in 1962, the Parliament It is impossible to miss light show takes place nightly
House of the independent the Marina Bay Sands, which amid the Supertrees.
state. Outside the building dominates Marina Bay.
stands a handsome bronze Developed by the Las Vegas The stunning Marina Bay Sands resort lit up
statue of an elephant, a gift Sands Corporation, the at night
from the Thai monarch, Rama integrated resort includes a
V, after his 1871 visit to Singa- 2,561-room hotel, a convention
pore – the first visit to a foreign center, the Shoppes at Marina
nation by a Siamese king. Bay Sands mall, and seven
celebrity-chef-run restaurants.
A new Parliament House was For entertainment, there are
built nearby in 1999. In 2004, two large theaters, an ice
after careful restoration, the skating rink, a casino, and two
old building was converted Crystal Pavilions. Floating on
into The Arts House, an elegant the water and four-stories high,
arts and heritage space. The the pavilions house nightclubs
center offers a range of contem- and shops full of designer
porary visual and performance brands. Hotel guests can also
arts, art house movies, and
improvisational theater.

218 SINGAPORE AREA BY AREA

The soaring silver blocks of the Raffles City q Raffles City fountains, and covered
complex Italianate walkways encircle
252 North Bridge Road. Map 3 D5, 5 shops that sell arts and crafts
9 Singapore Flyer E2. Tel 6433-2238. q City Hall. @ 7, from China, the Philippines,
36, 77, 97, 103, 124, 131, 147, 162, 166, Thailand, Malaysia, and India, as
30 Raffles Avenue. Map 5 F2. Tel 6738- 174, 190, 501, 511, 603. Open well as restaurants that serve
3338. q Promenade. @ 106, 111, 10am–9:30pm daily. 0 - = everything from sushi to tapas.
133. Open 8:30am–10:30pm daily. & ∑ rafflescity.com.sg A flea market is held here most
0 = ∑ singaporeflyer.com.sg Sundays. The most striking
This huge complex comprises building in the complex is the
One of Singapore’s most eye- a shopping mall, high-rise former chapel, designed in
catching attractions is the world’s offices, and two hotels – the Neo-Gothic style by the Jesuit
second-tallest observation wheel, Fairmont Singapore and priest Father Nain.
set on the edge of Marina Bay. Swissôtel the Stamford, the
As the wheel slowly turns, the world’s tallest hotel when it Singapore Art Museum, a former Catholic
city views from pods that reach opened in 1985. Perched atop boys’ school
541 ft (165 m) above ground the Stamford are lavish bars
level are amazing. The trip and restaurants, including Jaan r Singapore Art
takes about 30 minutes. on Level 69, which has Museum
stunning panoramic views.
0 St. Andrew’s 71 Bras Basah Road. Map 3 D5, 5 D1.
Cathedral Popularly dubbed the Tin Tel 6332-3222. q Bras Basah,
Can for its metallic appearance, Dhoby Gaut. @ 7, 14, 16, 36, 77,
Coleman Street. Map 5 E2. Tel 6337- Raffles City was designed by 97, 131, 167, 171, 518, 602, 603, 605,
6104. q City Hall. @ 7, 32, 51, 81, I M Pei, the architect famous for 607, 700. Open 10am–7pm Mon–
124, 145, 197, 603, 851. # 10:30am– the glass pyramid in front of Sun, 10am–9pm Fri. & free for
2:30pm daily. 8 7 5 see website. the Louvre in Paris and Bank of children under 6 years; also after
= ∑ livingstreams.org.sg China skyscraper in Hong Kong. 6pm Fri. 8 7 - =
∑ singaporeartmuseum.sg
Although an Anglican church, w Raffles Hotel
St. Andrew’s was named for A bronze statue of two
the patron saint of Scotland See pp220–21. schoolboys with 17th-century
in recognition of the saint John Baptiste de la Salle
Scottish merchants who e Chijmes stands above the porch of the
contributed funds to build Singapore Art Museum, a
it. The present cathedral 30 Victoria Street. Map 3 D5, 5 E1. reminder that until 1987 this
dates from 1862 and was Tel 6337-7810. q City Hall. @ 2, 7, was St. Joseph’s Institution, a
designed in an Early 12, 33, 81, 107, 130, 133, 147, 190, 520, Catholic boys’ school.
Gothic style reminiscent 851, 960. Open 11am–3am daily. 0
of England’s Salis- - = ∑ chijmes.com.sg Today, the building is a
bury Cathedral. showcase for contemporary
Chijmes (pronounced Asian art. Since the museum’s
“chimes”), an elegant walled opening, its permanent
collection has grown from under
complex of shops, bars, 2,000 works of art to over 7,000
restaurants, and gallery pieces, making it one of the
spaces, was once the world’s largest public collections
Convent of the Holy Infant of modern and contemporary
Jesus. Founded by a French Southeast Asian art. The core of

Jesuit priest in 1854 and
run by nuns, the convent
functioned as a school and
a women’s refuge, as well
as a home for abandoned
babies. In 1983, it was

redeveloped into a
shopping and
restaurant complex.

Quiet courtyards,
cobbled paths,

Façade of the chapel of Chijmes, now an arts and dining venue

For hotels and restaurants see pp282–3 and pp299–300

THE COLONIAL CORE AND CHINATOWN 219

the museum’s art, which

includes sculptures, instal-

lations, and paintings, is richly

supplemented by a regular

roster of local and international

traveling exhibitions, featuring

20th-century art from American

and European compilations.

Works from the museum’s own

collection are loaned out to

international exhibitions.

Usually only a selection of

works are on display at any

given time. There are works by

artists such as Georgette Chen,

Liu Kang, Chen Chong Swee,

Lim Tze Peng, and Huang Yao

from Singapore, and those by

regional artists such as Wong

Hoy Cheong from Malaysia,

Affandi from Indonesia, and Bui

Xian Phai and Tran Trong Vu

from Vietnam.

The old Classical-style

building has been restored and

skillfully converted for use as a

museum. The former school

chapel is used as an auditorium.

While the chapel’s original

character has been retained, its Renaissance-style exterior of the Cathedral of the Good Shepherd

central window has been The cathedral served as an

replaced by a modern stained- t Cathedral of the

glass work by Filipino artist Good Shepherd emergency hospital during the
Ramon Orlina. The building’s invasion of Singapore in World
two courtyards are used as Victoria Street. Map 3 D5, 5 D1. Tel War II, and was listed as a
exhibition spaces, arranged on 6337-2036. q Bras Basah. @ 7, 14, national monument in 1973.
either side of the Glass Hall, 16, 36, 77, 97, 131, 167, 171, 501, 700,
which is a glass-enclosed 957, 960. Open daily from mid-2016; Three interesting buildings
converted veranda decorated phone ahead for hours and service stand within the church
with blown-glass installations times 7 ∑ veritas.org.sg compound. The Archbishop’s
House, a 19th-century double-

by American artist Dale Chihuly. Singapore’s oldest Catholic story bungalow with a pro-

The old classrooms are now place of worship, this cathe- jecting portico, casement

galleries. The Learning Gallery dral, built in the 1840s, reopens windows, and enclosed

showcases contemporary in 2016 following renovations. verandas, is a simple structure in

works by Singapore artists It was first administered by contrast to the cathedral. The

that have been especially French missionary Father Jean- Resident’s Quarters, a U-shaped

selected to engage Marie Beurel, who also single-story building with Doric

the imaginations of established the Convent columns, and the Priest’s House

young people. The of the Holy Infant Jesus are more ornate and decorated

stylish gift shop has and St. Joseph’s with elaborate plasterwork.

been voted one of the Institution. Designed by

best museum shops noted colonial architect

in the world. D L McSwiney in a

The Dome Café, Latin-cross pattern, the

ensconced in one of church combines a

the naves of the Renaissance-style

museum, serves excel- exterior with Doric

lent sandwiches, cakes, columns, Palladian

and coffee drinks. There is porches, and a

also the Trattoria Lafiandra, beautifully crafted

which serves Italian timber ceiling. The

cuisine. A trendy octagonal steeple

alfresco wine bar adds Sculpture, Singapore Art was a later addition Stained glass in the Cathedral of the

to the ambience. Museum by Charles Dyce. Good Shepherd

220 SINGAPORE AREA BY AREA

w Raffles Hotel . Long Bar
The Singapore Sling, the pink drink
A legendary hotel and a national monument, Raffles, originally intended for women, was
which opened in 1887, is a tranquil haven of white, created in 1915 by Hainanese
veranda-enclosed, colonial-style buildings with bartender Ngiam Tong Boon.
terracotta-tiled pitched roofs. It was once the venue
for grand colonial balls and dances, and its guest
list boasted such names as Noel Coward, Somerset
Maugham, Rudyard Kipling, Joseph Conrad, Charlie
Chaplin, and Michael Jackson. The cool, calm refuges
of its courtyards, gardens, and covered walkways can
still be enjoyed by residents and visitors alike.

.Ornamental Fountain
Made in Scotland in the early

1890s, the 20-ft- (6-m-) high
cast-iron fountain was
donated to the hotel in

1990 and now stands in the
Palm Garden.

.Lobby
The lobby, home
to the Writers Bar,
features photographs
of some of the writers
who have stayed
at Raffles.

Palm Court
This area is a beautifully restored
space lined with palm and
frangipani trees. Collectively, the
hotel’s gardens house over 50,000
plants representing about 80
different species.

For hotels and restaurants see pp282–3 and pp299–300

THE COLONIAL CORE AND CHINATOWN 221

Raffles Courtyard VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
A menu of Italian
dishes is served in this Practical Information
immaculate alfresco 1 Beach Road. Map 5 E1.
dining space with its Tel 6337-1886. 0 - =
tropical palms and ∑ raffles.com
native plants.
Transport
q City Hall. @ 56, 82, 100,
518.

. Tiffin Room
A north Indian curry

buffet is offered
for lunch and
dinner here,

punctuated by a
strictly English
afternoon tea.

The Ballroom KEY
The hotel’s ballroom
is the epitome of 1 Writers Bar
formal elegance,
with its high 2 The Raffles Grill is one of
ceilings, sparkling Singapore’s most prestigious
chandeliers, restaurants, serving fine French
and murals. cuisine. The French doors of the
Grill overlook the Palm Court.

3 Tiffin Room

4 Bar and Billiard Room

5 Raffles Gift Shop

6 Ah Teng’s Bakery

7 Long Bar Steakhouse has a
formal dress code and serves
prime cuts of Australian and
American beef and seafood.

8 Jubilee Hall

9 The lawn’s tropical foliage
combined with a gazebo provides
the setting for garden receptions.

222 SINGAPORE AREA BY AREA

Neo-Classical façade of the Peranakan Museum

y National Museum second half of 2016. The revamp i Armenian Church
of Singapore aims to give museum-goers a
more comprehensive overview 60 Hill Street. Map 3 D5, 5 D2.
93 Stamford Road. Map 3 D5, 5 D1. of Singapore’s history, and to Tel 6334-0141. q City Hall. @ 2, 12,
Tel 6332-3659. q Bras Basah, Dhoby celebrate multiple voices in the 32, 33, 51, 103, 124, 147, 174, 190, 197,
Ghaut. @ 7, 14, 16, 36, 77, 97, 131, nation’s historical narrative. 851. Open 9am–5pm Mon–Fri, 9am–
166. Open 10am–6pm daily. & 8 noon Sat. Closed Sun.
11am, 2pm daily, also 3:30pm Sat & u Peranakan The Armenian Church of
Sun. 0 = ∑ nationalmuseum.sg Museum St. Gregory the Illuminator was
the first permanent place of
Housed in a Neo-Palladian 39 Armenian Street. Map 3 D5, 5 D2. Christian worship in Singapore.
structure and crowned with a Tel 6332-7591. q City Hall, Bras The church was built in 1835
stunning stained-glass dome, Basah. @ 7, 14, 16, 36, 77, 97, 131, and the spire was added later, in
the island’s oldest museum 166. Open 10am–7pm daily (to 9pm 1850. It was able to seat a
opened in 1887. Known as the Fri). & 811am, 2pm. 0 = congregation of only 50 people,
Raffles Museum and Library, it ∑ peranakanmuseum.sg a reflection of the minority
was famed for its remarkable status of the local Armenian
collections of natural history, The building in which this community then.
ethnology, and archaeology. museum is housed was
originally the Tao Nan School, Designed by G D Coleman,
Following Singapore’s established in 1910 by three the architect responsible for
independence in 1965, the Chinese philanthropists for the other landmarks of early
museum was renamed the education of boys from the Singapore such as St. Andrew’s
National Museum to reflect its Hokkien region of China. In 1997, Cathedral (see p218), the church
new role and altered its focus to this Neo-Classical building was is an elegant example of tropical
exhibitions that concentrated opened as the first wing of the Neo-Classical architecture. The
on the history and peoples of Asian Civilisations Museum. interior contains a photograph
Singapore. The museum has a Following an overhaul, it of the Armenian community
permanent collection, which became a Peranakan-themed from around 1917, as well as
features displays on food, museum representing a pan- portraits of the patriarchs of the
fashion, and local history. There Southeast Asia perspective of Armenian Church. In the
are also various exhibitions on a Peranakan culture with a focus
range of subjects from Chinese on its main centers, which Interior of the Armenian Church
secret societies to botany, include Singapore, Melaka,
however, the highlights of the and Penang.
museum are the 11 artifacts
that have collectively been The museum explores the
christened the “Treasures of the history and ethnology of the
National Museum.” culture of these regions and
also provides an interesting
The museum has been glimpse into their heritage,
undergoing a S$10 million including language and
facelift, initiated as part of religious customs. Exhibits
Singapore’s landmark 50th include silver artifacts,
anniversary celebrations in porcelain, jewelry, and textiles.
2015, and parts of it may remain
closed as a result until the

For hotels and restaurants see pp282–3 and pp299–300

THE COLONIAL CORE AND CHINATOWN 223

church’s compound is the grave p Chettiar Temple may enter. The Chettiar Temple
plays an important role in the
of Agnes Joaquim, who Crossing of Tank Road and River Valley life of Hindu Shaivites as it is the
discovered an orchid hybrid in Road. Map 4 C2. Tel 6737- 9393. culmination point of a
1893. The flower was later q Dhoby Ghaut. @ 14, 32, 54, 65, spectacular procession that
named Vanda Miss Joaquim for 139, 195. Open 8am–noon, 5:30– begins at Sri Srinivasa Perumal
her and adopted as Singapore’s 8:30pm daily. Temple (see pp236–7) during the
national flower. annual Thaipusam festival,
which occurs between January
Built in 1984, this Shaivite Hindu and February and honors Lord
Murugan (see p206).
o Fort Canning temple replaced a much older
Park one, founded in 1860 by The colorful gopuram of the Hindu
wealthy Indian Chettiars Chettiar Temple

51 Canning Rise, Singapore, 179872. (moneylenders). Dedicated to a Clarke Quay
Map 2 C5, 4 C2. Tel 6332-1200. Lord Murugan (also known as
q Dhoby Ghaut. @ 14, 32, 54, 77, Subramaniam), the colorful 3 River Valley Road, Singapore 179019.
124, 139, 195. Open 6am–9pm daily. temple is believed to be one Map 4 C2. q Clarke Quay. @ 14, 32,
54, 65, 139, 195, or 3 min. walk from
of the wealthiest and grandest Hill Street. 0 - = ( flea market
on Sat & Sun. ∑ clarkequay.com.sg
Once the seat of Temasek, in Singapore.
Named for Sir Andrew Clarke,
a 14th-century Malay Craftsmen from southern the second governor of
Singapore, Clarke Quay is an
kingdom, Fort Canning Park India were specially brought in upscale area along the banks of
the Singapore River with
is now a verdant, tranquil to create the temple’s distinctive waterfront shops and eateries.
Lying near the mouth of the
oasis in the heart of the city. architectural features, which Singapore River, the site of
Clarke Quay was a commercial
Because of the lovely view include a striking five-tiered hub during the late-19th
century, containing ware-
the site commands, Raffles gopuram, or entrance archway, houses run by Chinese traders.
It was redeveloped in the early
built his bungalow here, massive patterned rosewood 1990s into an entertainment
precinct offering restaurants,
and until the mid-19th doors, and columns and prayer wine bars, retail stores, craft
stalls, street performers, and
century, it was home to halls richly decorated with cruises in authentic bumboats
(boats that bring provisions
Singapore’s governors. sculptures of Hindu deities. and commodities to ships
at port). While it is relatively
The park was also the The ceiling has 48 etched- quiet during the day, Clarke
Quay offers a lively atmosphere
first site of Raffles’ glass panels of gods that at night.

botanical garden. are angled to catch the rising

In 1860, Fort Canning and setting sun. Another

was built here; only the feature, a rarity for Hindu

fort gate still stands. Nearby temples, is the presence of

is the Fort Canning a thoonganai maadam, a

Center, formerly a barracks representation of the rear

that now contains the of an elephant at rest. The

Pinacotheque de Paris, dominance of the temple’s

an offshoot of a private main deity is apparent

fine art gallery that has Sculpture, Fort throughout the

made something of a Canning Park temple, with Lord

name for itself in Paris. Murugan represented

Another historic landmark in six of his holy abodes.

is the Battle Box, a World Inside the temple are two

War II bunker containing connected rooms, the

a museum that uses mandapam and the antarala,

animatronics to recreate the through which worshipers

1942 surrender of the city to move to perform their devo-

the Japanese. The Battle Box tions. The antarala leads to

reopens in late 2016 the innermost sanctum, the

following renovations. garbhagraha, which only priests

The wide frontage of the Fort Canning Center, now housing an art gallery

224 SINGAPORE AREA BY AREA

temple has been repaired
several times over the years. In
its early days, the temple gave
shelter to new immigrants and
also served as a social center for
the community.

Although many of the
splendid friezes and statues
depict the Hindu divine trinity
of Brahma, Vishnu, and Shiva, as
well as other Hindu deities, the
temple is dedicated to the
goddess Sri Mariamman (an
incarnation of Shiva’s wife
Parvati), known for her power to
cure disease. The temple is
famous for the annual Thimithi
festival (see p207) in autumn,
during which devotees walk on
hot coals as a sign of faith.

Figurines adorning the gopuram, or gateway, of Sri Mariamman Temple f Temple Street

s Chinatown Temple, vividly decorated with Map 4 C4. q Chinatown. @ 51, 80,
Heritage Centre about 72 Hindu deities. The 124, 145, 174, 197, 608. 0 - =
complex is encircled by a
48 Pagoda Street. Map 4 C3. Tel 6221- boundary wall topped with The area bounded by Mosque,
9556. q Chinatown. @ 61, 80, 197. figures of sacred cows. Pagoda, Temple, Terengganu,
Open 9am–8pm daily. & and Smith Streets is the place
∑ chinatownheritagecentre.sg The oldest Hindu place of that Sir Stamford Raffles had first
worship on the island, Sri earmarked for the Chinese
A superb museum housed Mariamman dates back to 1827 community. It grew into the
in three restored shophouses, when the first temple, a simple hub of Chinese life and culture,
the center provides one of the wood and attap, or thatched- with streets that were lined with
most vivid accounts of roof, was built on this site. The temples, traditional craft stores,
the history and culture of land belonged to an Indian kongsi, or clan houses,
Chinese immigrants. Three merchant, Narain Pillai, who restaurants, and shophouses,
levels of galleries recreate arrived in Singapore on the shuttered buildings where the
their living conditions and, same ship as Sir Stamford ground floor was occupied by a
together with first-hand Raffles. It was replaced by the shop while families lived on the
accounts of former residents present structure in 1843. The upper floor. Some shophouses
and a variety of artifacts, trace contained opium dens and
the lives of early settlers and brothels, giving the area a
evoke different periods of somewhat colorful reputation.
Chinatown’s history.
Sensitive restoration has
meant that much of the original
character of these shophouses

d Sri Mariamman
Temple

244 South Bridge Road. Map 4 C4.
Tel 6223-4064. q Chinatown. @ 51,
80, 124, 143, 174, 197. Open 7am–
noon & 6–9pm daily.

The southern end of South The entrance to a shop on Temple Street, Chinatown
Bridge Road is dominated by
the gopuram, or entrance
gateway, of the Sri Mariamman

For hotels and restaurants see pp282–3 and pp299–300

THE COLONIAL CORE AND CHINATOWN 225

has been retained. Many are Restored double-story shophouses in the Tanjong Pagar Conservation Area
painted in bright, contemporary
colors. While escalating rents j Tanjong Pagar now home to many lively
have driven out some of the Conservation Area restaurants, bars, and hotels.
traditional businesses, the area
still features a variety of shops Map 4 B5. q Tanjong Pagar. @ 80, At the corner of Neil Road
selling souvenirs, antiques, 145. 0 - = and Tanjong Pagar Road is the
porcelain, and clothing. There former Jinrickshaw Station,
are also several pleasant Once a nutmeg plantation, this built in 1903. Jinrickshaws were
restaurants and cafés. The area at the southern tip of first imported from Shanghai in
surrounding housing blocks South Bridge Road boasts the 1880s. By 1919 there were
also offer an authentic flavor of some of Singapore’s most about 9,000 rickshaws and
the old Chinatown. These elegant stretches of renovated 20,000 rickshaw-pullers. The
streets come alive during shophouses. One of the first of rickshaws were phased out by
Chinese New Year, with the old neighborhoods to be legislation after World War II
festivities, vibrant decorations, renovated, Tanjong Pagar is and soon disappeared from the
and food and gift stalls. streets of Singapore.

g Chinatown Shophouse The Early Style (1840– The First Transitional
Complex Styles 1900) shophouse is a Style (early 1900s)
squat, two-story shophouse is three
New Bridge Road. Map 4 C4. The shophouse is a building. The windows stories high, such as this
q Outram Park, Chinatown. @ 2, 12, memorable feature and façade are plain. unit at Telok Ayer Street.
33, 54, 62, 63, 81, 124, 147, 961. Open of Singapore’s local
10am–10pm daily. 0 - = architecture. Five
styles, roughly
On the corner of Terengganu chronological, have
Street and Sago Street, the been identified –
Chinatown Complex houses the Early, the First
one of the most boisterous wet Transitional, the
markets in the city, offering a Late, the Second
bewildering variety of fresh Transitional, and
produce. The most startling Art Deco styles.
meat and fish, including frogs,
is on sale in the mornings.

h Buddha Tooth
Relic Temple and
Museum

288 South Bridge Road. Map 4 C4.
Tel 6220-0220. q Outram Park,
Chinatown, Tanjong Pagar. @ 1, 12,
33, 54, 63, 124, 143, 147, 961. Open
7am–7pm daily. ∑ btrts.org.sg

Opened in 2007, this hugely The Late Style (1900– The Second The Art Deco Style
popular temple gets its name 1940) shophouse is Transitional Style (1930–1960) shophouse
from what Buddhists regard flamboyantly (late 1930s) shop- is typified by classical
as the Sacred Buddha Tooth ornamented with house, such as this unit geometric motifs, as
Relic. A Tang-styled Chinese eclectic styles, as seen (No. 10) on Stanley illustrated by this unit
Buddhist temple, it is based in this unit (No. 21) on Street, is much simpler (No. 30) located on Bukit
on the Buddhist mandala, a Bukit Pasoh Road. and less ornate. Pasoh Road.
representation of the universe.
Look out for bone and tongue
relics in the Buddhist Culture
Museum on the third floor. On
the fourth floor is the Sacred
Light Hall with the temple’s
centerpiece, the Buddha Tooth
Relic, housed in a giant stupa
made of gold. Only monks are
allowed into the relic chamber.

226 SINGAPORE AREA BY AREA

The distinctive architecture of Lau Pa Sat’s food court

k Ann Siang Hill l Telok Ayer Street on the site of the former Hock
Teckk Ch’i Temple. Among its
Map 4 C4. q Tanjong Pagar, Map 5 D4. q Tanjong Pagar, Raffles display of Chinese artifacts is a
Chinatown. @ 51, 61, 63, 80, Place. @ 10, 70, 75, 82, 97, 100, 107, diorama depicting Telok Ayer
103, 124, 145, 174, 197, 603, 608, 851. 130, 167, 186. 0 - = Street as it would have been in
0-= the 1850s. For a contrasting
Originally located on the experience, the temple site also
Once a clove and nutmeg seafront before modern land includes the tranquil, stylish
plantation, Ann Siang Hill and its reclamation, Telok Ayer Street, Amoy boutique hotel.
neighboring streets are today a which means water bay in
hub of Chinese life and activity. Malay, retains much of the feel z Lau Pa Sat
The gently curving street, of 19th-century Singapore.
flanked by shophouses, makes On the street are a number of 18 Raffles Quay. Map 5 D4. q Raffles
for an interesting walking tour. traditional businesses, as well Place. @ 10, 70, 75, 82, 97, 100, 107,
Some of the shophouses feature as temples and mosques where 130, 131, 167, 186. Open 24 hours. 0
pintu pagar, or half doors, early immigrants gave thanks -=
reflecting Malay influence. Club for their safe passage. One
Street nearby is noted for its of the most famous is the Singapore’s first municipal
dining and upmarket boutiques. Hokkien Thian Hock Keng market, Telok Ayer Market,
It is also famous for its temple- Temple (see pp228–9), the city’s now renamed Lau Pa Sat, is an
carving shops and the clan oldest Chinese temple. The architecturally impressive food
associations and guilds that neighboring Al Abrar Mosque court offering an extensive
gave the street its name. Some, was built between 1850 and variety of Asian cuisines and is
such as the Victorian Chinese 1855 by Indian Muslims, who a favorite lunch venue for
Weekly Entertainment Club, also built the nearby Nagore locals. Originally commissioned
still survive on the hill, their Durgha in the 1820s, a blend of by Raffles in 1822 on reclaimed
walls plastered with photo- Classical architecture and land, the elegant octagonal
graphs of former members. Also Indian-Islamic details such as cast-iron structure was
striking are house numbers 33 arches and perforated grills. All designed by James MacRitchie
and 35, designed by architect three are national monuments. and shipped over from a
Frank Brewer, famed for his Farther down the street is the Glasgow foundry in 1894.
skilled plasterwork. Fuk Tak Chi Museum, standing It was declared a national
monument in 1973.

The market was dismantled
during MRT tunnel construc-
tion and was later painstakingly
reassembled. The adjacent
Boon Tat Street is closed off to
traffic in the evenings for
traditional hawker stalls to
set up shop.

Row of restored shophouses on Ann Siang Hill x Thian Hock Keng
For hotels and restaurants see pp282–3 and pp299–300 Temple

See pp228–9.

THE COLONIAL CORE AND CHINATOWN 227

c Raffles Place Conrad’s Lord Jim

Map 5 D3. q Raffles Place. @ 10, 70,

75, 82, 97, 100, 107, 130, 131, 167, 196. Born to Polish parents in what is

0-= now Ukraine, Teodor Josef Konrad

Nowhere is Singapore’s Korzeniowski sailed to many
transition from a colonial places, including the Malay states,
backwater to a cutting edge, between 1874 and 1894, becoming a
booming economy more mariner and a British subject in 1886.
apparent than in the gleaming Joseph Conrad is perhaps the most
celebrated English writer on late

skyscrapers of Raffles Place. This 19th-century Southeast Asia, and

is the heart of the city’s financial Singapore figures prominently in

world, packed with well-known his works, especially in the novel Joseph Conrad

multinational corporations and Lord Jim. It was in this region that

financial institutions. Among he heard of an English merchant navy officer, Austin Podmore

the first banks to open here Williams, who earned lasting disgrace by abandoning the steamer

were the Hong Kong and Jeddah, along with 953 Muslim pilgrims, in the Red Sea in 1880,

Shanghai Bank and Standard dooming himself to a life of exile. He became the tragic model for

Chartered Bank. The three Conrad’s Lord Jim.

tallest buildings in Singapore

are located here – UOB Plaza river. By the 1960s, however,

and One Raffles Place Tower 1, v Boat Quay

both designed by renowned Map 5 D3. q Raffles Place. @ 2, 12, technological advances had
Japanese architect Kenzo 33, 51, 54, 61, 81, 103, 145, 147, 166, changed the face of the
Tange, and Republic Plaza. All 174, 190. 0 - shipping industry. New, high-
the buildings are 920 ft (280 m) tech container ports opened

high. The Bank of China A thriving strip of restored up farther up the river, claiming

building is one of Southeast shophouses converted into Boat Quay’s role in the river’s

Asia’s earliest skyscrapers. restaurants, shops, and bars, trade. Trading houses moved out

Dotted around the area Boat Quay today is very and the area slowly declined. The

are installations of different from the riverfront government embarked upon a

modern sculpture, area of a century ago. river-cleaning program which

including The center of the city’s cleared out all the bumboats

Salvador Dali’s commercial activities in the and the barges, leaving Boat

Homage to 1860s, most of its trading Quay a desolate region.

Newton (1985) was handled from here. The area has been restored

and Fernando Shophouses crowded the as part of a government-led

Botero’s Bird (1990). curve of the south bank, conservation project, reno-

The Merlion statue, the shape of which was vating the old shophouses and

symbol of the city, is thought to resemble godowns (warehouses) and

also located nearby. the belly of a carp, revitalizing the riverfront area by

Clifford Pier, which Dali’s Homage to Newton, an indicator of pedestrianizing it. There are

provided a location Raffles Place prosperity according plenty of bars and restaurants

for Conrad’s Lord Jim, to Chinese belief. The with enchanting views of the

is now a fine dining restaurant river teemed with bumboats, river. A taxi service also plies for

which has excellent views over which were used to load and customers between Boat Quay

the marina. unload ships anchored on the and Clarke Quay.

Bars and restaurants lining the riverbank at Boat Quay, once a busy trading center

228 SINGAPORE AREA BY AREA . Roof Decorations
On the temple’s roof ridge stand
x Thian Hock Keng Temple twin dragons that embody the
principles of yin and yang.
Built in 1839, Thian Hock Keng Temple is the oldest Between them is the “night-
Chinese temple in Singapore. Constructed by Hokkien shining pearl,” a glass globe that
sailors on the site of a joss house, it was the most represents the sun.
important center of worship for immigrants from their
community. It was also where seafarers gave thanks for
a safe passage to Singapore. Construction was paid for
by individual donors, the main one being Hokkien
leader Tan Tock Seng (1798–1850). The temple itself is
laid out along a traditional north–south axis and has
shrines dedicated to several deities. Today, people of all
ages come to this temple to give their thanks to Ma
Zhu Po, the goddess of the sea.

Rear Hall
Dedicated to the moon

goddess, Yue Gong
Niang Niang, Rear Hall
houses a shrine to the

goddess. She is
worshiped alongside
Kuan Yin, the goddess of
mercy. The sun god, Ri

Gong Tai Zi, is also
worshiped here.

. Secondary Shrines 5 The door at the main
In the side hall to the left of entrance is decorated with
the main courtyard stand temple guardians from
shrines to Kai Zhang Shen Wang, Chinese mythology.
an early immigrant, and Cheng
Hang, a local deity. 6 The main hall contains
the image of Ma Zhu Po, the
KEY sea goddess. She is flanked by
Guan Gong, the god of war,
1 Gift Shop and Pao Sheng Da Di, the
protector of life.
2 The pagoda, which used to
house Chong Wen Ge, the first
Chinese school in Singapore, was
built in 1849.

3 The roof ridge is decorated
with glazed tile chips.

4 The furnace is where paper
money offerings and other gifts
are burned to placate the spirits
of the dead.

For hotels and restaurants see pp282–3 and pp299–300

THE COLONIAL CORE AND CHINATOWN 229

VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
158 Telok Ayer Street.
Map 5 D4. Tel 6222-8212.
Open 7:30am–5:30pm daily.
^ inside the temple.
Transport
q Tanjong Pagar.

Ancestor Tablets
The spirits of ancestors are
believed to reside in these

venerated tablets.

Granite Pillars
The intricate columns
which support the roof,
made of granite from
China, are carved with

entwined dragons.

. Ceiling of Main Hall
Gilded carvings on the temple’s ceiling
depict stories from Chinese folklore. These
carvings have been restored by artisans from
China. The gray pillars supporting the ceiling

are made of granite from China.



SINGAPORE AREA BY AREA 231

LITTLE INDIA AND

ORCHARD ROAD

Originally occupied by Europeans and joining Buginese, Boyanese, and Javanese
Eurasians, Little India was settled by the arrivals, to create a Muslim enclave. The
Indians when they set up brick-kilns and ethnic area of Little India is the spiritual
cattle yards in the latter half of the 19th heart and commercial center of the local
century. Packed with restaurants, shops, Indian community. Orchard Road lies to the
and ornate temples, the area is a mix of northwest of the Colonial Core. In the 1840s it
sights, scents, and sounds. With colonial was a dirt road, lined with orchards and
architecture and a Middle Eastern ambience, nutmeg plantations, but today it constitutes
Kampong Glam provides some of the best Singapore’s most historic shopping district.
insights into Singapore’s Malay community. Lavish hotels, cafés, pubs, and shopping
Arab traders were the earliest settlers, malls are located here.

Sights at a Glance TESSENSOHN ROAD SERANGOON ROAD

Historic Streets and Buildings OWEN RD SYED ALWI ROAD JALAN SULTAN
Farrer
2 Malay Heritage Centre Park
3 Arab Street
7 Serangoon Road RACE COURSE RO JALAN BESARROWELL ROAD CRDHORRoCcAhNorALCRaOnaAlD VICTORIA ST
9 Dhoby Ghaut NORTHUMBERLAND SERANGOON RD
CHANDER RD VUEPEPREARSAPDMPIECYRKSRWODENLDRDRD NORTH
Mosques and Temples AD GEI ARAB ST
RD CLIVE ST U RO OPHIR ROAD BEACH ROAD
1 Masjid Sultan
4 Leong San See Temple UN BRIDGE
5 Sakya Muni Buddha Gaya
6 Sri Srinivasa Perumal Temple pp236–7 S
8 Sri Veeramakaliamman Temple
0 Peranakan Place and Emerald Hill Little RSOUCNHOGARELBCI EARRNDTALSTRD ROCHOR
t Goodwood Park Hotel
India RD
Shopping
TIMAH RD QUEEN ST VICTORIA ST Bugis
q The Centrepoint TIMAH RD WATERLOO ST
w ION Orchard SEL EGIE ROAD
e Ngee Ann City SHORT BENCOOLEN STREET
r Tangs ROAD
y Tanglin Mall ST MIDDLE

RD

PRINSEP STREET WATERLOO STREET
RODAhDoby
HANDY Ghaut

FORT CANNING R D

OKRRLAACMNHAEPTAE RNODXALNERYGOCRALAVEI EMSDNEEUNERCEOAUA D
Somerset
DRDAYRICVOETT MOUNT

CLAYMORE HILL ELIZABETH CAIRNHILL ROAD RD
SCOTTS ROAD RO
NUT M EG R D ROAD SOMERSET
ORCHARD O RCHARD LINK AD
CLARYOMADORE ORCHARD TURN GRANGE RD
EXETER
Orchard

TANGLIN ROAD ORCHARD BOULEVARD

CUSCADEN RD
BOULEVARD
TORMOLAINDSON
R C HARD 0 meters 500
GRANGE 0 yards 500

RD O See also Street Finder
maps 1, 2 & 3
Exuberant carving on the Sri Veeramakaliamman Temple, Little India
For keys to symbols see back flap

232 SINGAPORE AREA BY AREA

Street-by-Street: Alsagoff Arab School
Kampong Glam Built in 1912, this was the first girls’
school and the first Muslim school to
Kampong Glam is the focal point of Muslim life in be built in Singapore. It was named
Singapore. Its name is derived from the Malay words for a prominent Arab trader and
kampung, or village, and gelam, a tree that once grew philanthropist.
abundantly in the area. In 1819, the area was given to
Sultan Hussein Shah as part of a treaty by which To Malabar
Singapore was ceded to the British. The Sultan built his Jama-Ath Mosque
palace, the Istana Kampong Glam, and the stunning and old Malay
Masjid Sultan here and soon the area was filled with cemetery
Muslims from diverse ethnic backgrounds. This early impact
is reflected in the distinct Islamic flavor of its street names,
shops, buildings, and restaurants. Arab Street is a major
draw, with its intricate textiles, fine leather, and caneware.
Good Malay food stalls can be found on Kandahar Street.

2. Malay ROAD
Heritage Centre
Malay motifs
combine with
Palladian style in the
former Istana
Kampong Glam
palace, now a Malay
cultural center.

1. Masjid Sultan BRIDGE
Designed by Irishman
Denis Santry, this NORTH
mosque dominates
the skyline with its
golden domes and
four corner minarets.

KANDAHAR STREET

M U S C A T ST R E E T

Gedung Kuning To Bugis MRT ARAB STREET
This yellow mansion, Station
erected in the 1920s
by Sultan Ali Iskandar
Shah, is an example of

Palladian-inspired
architecture.

For hotels and restaurants see p283 and pp300–301

LITTLE INDIA AND ORCHARD ROAD 233

Hajjah Fatimah Mosque LITTLE INDIA
Named for a female Melakan merchant, it was AND ORCHARD
built in 1846, with an eclectic mix of European,
Chinese, and Middle Eastern architectural styles. ROAD

To Lavender THE COLONIAL
MRT Station CORE AND
CHINATOWN

Locator Map
See Street Finder map 2

Sultan Plaza

Jalan Sultan
Center

JALAN SULTANSTREET
ALIWAL STREET

PAHANG Pondok Java
used to be a
SULTAN GATE ROAD theater for
Javanese
BEACH immigrants
but now lies
derelict.

Bussorah Mall
This street leads to the Masjid
Sultan, and comes to life during
the Muslim fasting month.
Religious items and a variety
of foods are sold here.

STREET

BAGHDAD BUSSORAH STREET Key
Suggested route

. Arab Street 0 meters 100
Rows of shops line Arab Street, 0 yards 100

selling fine textiles, cane, rattan,

and straw products.

234 SINGAPORE AREA BY AREA

3 Arab Street

Map 3 E4. q Bugis. @ 2, 7, 12, 32,
33, 51, 61, 62, 63, 125, 130, 145, 197,
520, 851, 960. 0 - =

Main prayer hall inside the Masjid Sultan named the area Kota Raja, or Located within the smallest of
the King’s Enclave. In 1840, his Singapore’s ethnic quarters, this
1 Masjid Sultan son, Sultan Ali Iskandar Shah, street acquired its name from
the last Sultan of Singapore, the Arab merchants who settled
3 Muscat Street. Map 3 E4. Tel 6293- built the present palace. The here when they came to trade
4405. q Bugis. @ 7, 32, 124, 145, Istana presides over extensive in the 19th century. The vibrant
166, 174, 195, 197. Open 9:30am– grounds. Several smaller Malay colors of Arab Street are striking.
noon & 2–4pm daily (2:30–4pm Fri). village-style houses were built It is a maze of shops that sell all
& voluntary. Note: visitors can only within the walled compound. manner of Middle Eastern and
view the prayer hall from the foyer. These housed the Sultan’s large Islamic wares. Religious items
∑ sultanmosque.org.sg entourage which included his such as prayer mats, holy beads,
family of hundreds of relatives copies of the Koran, and skull
Named for Sultan Hussein Shah and servants. Also on the caps jostle for space with
of Johor, the mosque was premises was the Kota Rajah excellent basketware, rattan,
originally built in 1824 with the Club, a sports club founded by a cane and straw work, leather
aid of a grant from the British descendant of the Sultan, where products, jewelry, precious and
East India Company, the result young men of good breeding semi-precious gems, and
of a treaty between the Sultan could enjoy recreational perfumes. Visitors should be
and Stamford Raffles. It was activities such as badminton. prepared to bargain. The
replaced in 1928 by the present majestic Masjid Sultan looms
structure, designed by Irish According to the 1904 Sultan over this pedestrianized tourist
architect Denis Santry. Arabesque Hussein Ordinance, enacted by market strip.
in style with Moorish overtones, the British Government, the
golden domes, balustrades, Sultan’s descendants were Arab Street is most famous
and arches, as well as a minaret entitled to live in the palace and for its textile stores. Bales of
at each corner, Singapore’s receive an annual government colorful cotton, chiffon,
largest mosque accommodates stipend. Over the years, organza, and silk cloth cram
5,000 worshipers in its main however, disputes and dwin- the shopfronts and spill onto
hall. Visitors are guided by dling fortunes led the palace to the pavement. Batik from
multilingual docents. gradually fall in ruins. It was Indonesia and Malaysia,
then reclaimed by the govern- handmade or machine-printed
2 Malay Heritage ment, which compensated with traditional designs, is
Centre the Sultan’s descendants for typically sold in sarong lengths
their displacement. of 6 ft (2 m). Shops also sell
Sultan Gate. Map 3 F4. Tel 6390-0450. readymade batik shorts, shirts,
q Bugis. @ 107, 961, 980. Open dresses, ties, and table linen.
Compound: 8am–8pm Tue–Sun (to To complement the fabric
10pm Fri & Sat). Museum: 10am–6pm sellers, specialist shops sell
Tue–Sun. Closed Mon. & ostrich feathers, dazzling lamé
in several shades, various types
of sparkling sequins, and
thread in a profusion of colors.
Traditional Malay wedding
outfits can also be found in
shops on Arab Street.

This cultural center and its Baskets and leather bags for sale on Arab Street
museum, celebrating Malay
history, culture, and arts, are
housed in the Istana Kampong
Glam, formerly the official royal
residence of Sultan Hussein
Shah, who ceded the sovereign
rights of Singapore to the
British. As part of this historic
agreement, the Sultan built a
wooden palace in 1820 and

For hotels and restaurants see p283 and pp299–301

LITTLE INDIA AND ORCHARD ROAD 235

4 Leong San See the footprint of the Buddha. Bollywood movie soundtracks.
Temple
Beyond, a 50-ft (15-m) seated The area is full of Indian
371 Race Course Road. Map 3 E1.
Tel 6298-9371. q Farrer Park. @ 23, statue of the Buddha is illumin- restaurants such as Komala
64, 65, 111, 130, 131, 133, 139, 147.
Open 6am–6pm daily. ated by the colored electric Villas, famous for vegetarian
Situated across the road from
the dazzling Sakya Muni lights that give the temple its food. The noise of fortune-
Buddha Gaya Temple, the Leong
San See Temple honors Kuan popular name. telling parrots, street pedlars,
Yin, the goddess of mercy and
compassion, and Shakyamuni Another relic that draws and a heady aroma of spices
Buddha. Leong San See, or
dragon mountain temple, was devotees here is a branch and flowers fill the air.
built in 1917 by a Buddhist
monk. Today, both Taoists and believed to be from the bodhi,
Buddhists worship here. The
temple is beautifully decorated or peepul, tree under which 8 Sri Veeramakali-
with timber beams and intricate the Buddha gained his amman Temple
carvings of phoenix, dragons, enlightenment. In a chamber
chimeras, and flowers. A court-
yard in the temple contains behind the Seated Buddha is a 141 Serangoon Road. Map 3 D3.
many ancestral tablets. statue of the Reclining Buddha. Tel 6295-4538. q Dhoby Ghaut,
About 25 scenes from the Bugis. @ 23, 64, 65, 103, 106, 111, 125,
Large gilded Buddha at Leong San Buddha’s life are portrayed on 130, 131, 142, 147, 151, 857. Open
See Temple the base of the statue. Visitors 6am, 1pm, 4pm, 7:30pm daily. 0 =
can have their futures foretold
5 Sakya Muni
Buddha Gaya at a wheel of fortune near the This temple, built in 1881 by

366 Race Course Road. Map 3 E2. Tel prayer hall. Bengali laborers, is dedicated to
6294-0714. q Farrer Park. @ 23, 64,
65, 106, 111, 125, 130, 131, 142, 147, the Hindu goddess Kali, who
151, 857. Open 7:30am–5pm daily. 7
epitomizes the struggle of good
Popularly known as the Temple
of a Thousand Lights, Sakya 6 Sri Srinivasa over evil and is the consort of
Muni Buddha Gaya was built by Perumal Temple Shiva, the god of destruction.
Vuttisasara, a Thai monk. The The name of the temple means
temple has a Thai wat design,
embellished with a mix of See pp236–7. Kali the Courageous.
Chinese and Indian influences.
To the left of the entrance is an The main altar of the temple
ebony and mother-of-pearl
replica of what is believed to be has a black statue of Kali with

7 Serangoon Road each of her many arms and

Map 3 F1. q Little India. @ 23, 64, legs holding a weapon. She is
65, 106, 111, 125, 130, 131, 142, 147. flanked by her two sons
70= Ganesh, the elephant god,
and Murugan, the child god

The early Indian migrants to riding a peacock. The temple

Singapore in the 19th century is especially crowded on

settled along the banks of the Tuesdays and Fridays, which

Rochor Canal. The area eventu- are Hindu holy days when

ally became a trading and devotees throng the temple

cattle-breeding center, evident to worship.

from street names such

as Kerbau Road, which

means Buffalo Road in

Malay. Over time, as

more Indians arrived,

Serangoon Road

became the heart of

“Little India,” the

religious, cultural, and

economic center for the

local Indian community.

One of the oldest

roads in Singapore,

Serangoon Road is a

kaleidoscope of

quintessential Indian

life. Vying for attention

are elaborate Hindu

temples and ornate

shophouses. The

shopkeepers hang

mirrors above their

doors to ward off evil

influences and sell Sri Veeramakaliamman Temple, a temple in honor of

jewelry, textiles, and the Hindu goddess Kali

236 SINGAPORE AREA BY AREA

6 Sri Srinivasa Perumal . Mandapam
Temple The main mandapam or prayer
hall has a decorated ceiling that is
One of the most important religious buildings in Singapore, supported by ornately carved
this Hindu temple is devoted to the worship of Lord Vishnu columns.
(also known as Perumal). It is also one of the oldest temples in
Singapore. Built in 1854, the temple was originally a simple
structure with a mandapam, or a prayer hall, and the area
around the temple had many ponds and vegetable gardens.
In 1966, when the temple was consecrated, a six-tiered
gopuram, or entrance tower, was built, funded by one of the
earliest Indian migrants, P. Govindasamy Pillai. The temple is
the starting point of the annual Thaipusam festival parade.

. Subsidiary Shrines
Several subsidiary shrines are
dedicated to different deities. This
shrine is in honor of Ganesh, the
elephant-headed god who
removes obstacles.

KEY Vimanams
Decorated vimanams, or domes, mark the position of the
1 The inner sanctum is where the temple’s subsidiary shrines.
main idol lies. Only priests can enter.
2 The office provides information
on temple activities.

Thaipusam Festival Devotee carrying an ornately
decorated kavadi
This Hindu festival begins at dawn at the temple. Male devotees
enter a trance-like state, carrying ornately decorated kavadis, or steel
arches, attached by metal hooks to their torsos, with skewers pierced
through their tongues and cheeks. Devotees take part in this act in
penance for their sins and in honor of Lord Murugan, the god of
bravery, power, beauty, and virtue. Women carry coconut milk pots,
also fulfilling vows relating to penance. Accompanied by chanting
and singing, they walk to Sri Thendayuthapani Temple on Tank Road,
about 2 miles (3 km) away.

For hotels and restaurants see p283 and pp300–301

LITTLE INDIA AND ORCHARD ROAD 237

Main Shrine VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Here, devotees make offerings of Practical Information
ghee, flowers, and fruit, to the 397 Serangoon Road. Map 3 E2.
accompaniment of music and Tel 6298-5771. Open 6:30am–
chanting. They also sprinkle their noon & 6–9pm daily. 7 8 on
heads with holy water. request.
Transport
Vishnu q Farrer Park. @ 23, 64, 65, 111,
This sculpture of Vishnu 130, 131, 139, 147, 857.
shows him with four sacred
instruments – the conch . Gopuram
shell, club, lotus, and saber. The 60-ft- (20-m-)

high entrance
tower has six tiers

of sculptures.

Main Entrance Hanuman
Statuary stands guard on either This shrine is dedicated to Hanuman,
the monkey god. In the Hindu epic, the
side of the massive wooden Ramayana, he helps rescue Sita from
door. Devotees ring the bells the demon, Ravana.

before entering, asking the
gods to grant their prayers.

238 SINGAPORE AREA BY AREA

Street-by-Street: e Ngee Ann City
Orchard Road With seven floors, Ngee Ann
City has plenty going on
Stretching from Tanglin Mall to Plaza Singapura, the range inside. It has more than 30
and scale of retail outlets on Orchard Road make it an restaurants, a post office, banks,
exemplary shopping experience. Shady trees dot the road a Japanese department store,
between malls and department stores, including Singapore’s and more than 120 shops
oldest, Robinsons at The Heeren and the historic Tangs. (see pp240–41)
These large, glitzy buildings are interspersed with smaller
designer boutiques, antique stores, cafés, and food courts. Paragon shopping center
Crowds throng the streets, especially on weekends. boasts a vast, shop-lined
atrium. It houses five
Wheelock Place floors of gift, fashion, and
Shaped like a steel and glass lifestyle stores.
Christmas tree, Wheelock Place
houses a department store and a Knightsbridge
shopping mall
few restaurants.

Delfi Orchard Tangs
(see p241)

Forum is packed with Liat Towers
shops selling clothes
and children’s toys.

y. Tanglin Mall w. ION Orchard
A paradise for antique lovers, Tanglin Mall is a This vast, architecturally impressive center with shiny
treasure-house for old maps, bric-à-brac,
books, furniture, carpets, and art floors and snaking escalators offers a huge number of

For hotels and restaurants see p283 and pp300–301 brands under one roof.

LITTLE INDIA AND ORCHARD ROAD 239

LITTLE INDIA
AND

ORCHARD
ROAD

THE COLONIAL
CORE AND
CHINATOWN

Locator Map
See Street Finder maps 1 & 2

0. Peranakan Place q The Centrepoint
Beyond Peranakan Place’s Baroque Chinese shophouse The Centrepoint houses a diverse
façade are modern, air-conditioned shops selling selection of stores over six floors and
Eastern and Western goods, as well as restaurants, a basement. Its flagship store, Metro,
cafés, and pubs (see p240). has an excellent range of household
goods. Cold Storage in the
The Heeren is the basement has one of the best
place for trendy supermarket selections (see p240).
clothing, a huge
music store, and
the Robinsons
department store.

0 meters 200
0 yards 200

Cuppage Plaza

Plaza Singapura To Park Mall
One of the earliest malls on Orchard Road,
Plaza Singapura was refurbished in the 1990s. As Park Mall
well as a department store, it houses a number of Furniture and interior
specialist outlets.
decoration are the
themes of Park Mall.
From the traditional to
the avant garde, displays
include items from

Europe and Asia.

240 SINGAPORE AREA BY AREA

9 Dhoby Ghaut was later acquired by the The Centrepoint shopping center,
Peranakans (see p26). From 1900 Orchard Road
Map 2 C4, 4 C1. q Dhoby Ghaut. @ to 1930, 30 different owners built
7, 14, 16, 36, 64, 65, 77, 85, 106, 111, residential units along Emerald Birkenstock, and Lacoste to
123, 124, 139, 143, 167, 171, 174, 190, Hill Road resulting in a street Singaporean and Hong Kong
502, 518. 0 = lined with unique Peranakan fashion outlets, jewelry shops,
architecture. Interesting features interior decoration, and
The area known as Dhoby Ghaut include the wooden pintu furniture shops.
takes its name from the dhobies, pagar, or half doors across
or Indian laundrymen, who unconventional doorways. Also w ION Orchard
worked here many years ago, visible are colorful ceramic tiles,
and ghaut, which means landing mirrors above doors to ward off 2 Orchard Turn. Map 1 F2. Tel 6238-
place in Hindi. Dhobies used to evil spirits, and animal reliefs to 8228. q Orchard. @ 14E, 124, 128,
go door-to-door, collecting invite good luck. Toward 143, 162. Open 10am–10pm daily. 0
clothes from residents and Orchard Road, these terrace - ∑ ionorchard.com
recording the items in a book. houses were converted into
They washed the clothes in the shophouses, with the first floors The vast ION Orchard mall
nearby stream, which ran down occupied by small stores and joined the shopping scene in
the side of Orchard Road, and seamstresses. 2009. With more than 300 stores,
dried them on land that is now including designer names such
occupied by the YMCA. This The buildings on Peranakan as Louis Vuitton, Prada, and
land was also once the site of Place have been carefully Cartier, the road’s largest mall
detention and interrogation restored, making this area the draws massive crowds,
rooms used by the Japanese only stretch of old shophouse particularly at the weekend. An
during World War II. Next to the architecture left on Orchard extensive food hall offers a
YMCA is a white Presbyterian Road. It now houses restaurants, myriad of choices, from the best
church established by Scottish cafés, and boutiques. hawker fare to international
settlers in 1877. It was once flavors. The art and exhibition
used as a supply base for q The Centrepoint gallery on the fourth floor is the
Japanese civilians. largest of its kind in Singapore.
176 Orchard Road. Map 2 B4. Tel 6737-
0 Peranakan Place 9000. q Somerset. @ 7, 14, 16, 65,
and Emerald Hill 77, 106, 111, 123, 124, 143, 167, 171,
174, 190. Open 10am–10pm daily. 0
Emerald Hill Road. Map 2 B4. - ∑ fraserscentrepointmalls.com
q Somerset. @ 7, 14, 16, 65, 77,
106, 111, 123, 124, 143, 167, 171, This large shopping center
174, 190. 7 0 - = first opened in 1858 and is one
∑ peranakanplace.com of Singapore’s oldest malls. The
store claims to have the best
An upscale neighborhood of seasonal sales in Singapore,
traditional residences, plush one of which coincides with
boutiques, and pricey eateries the Great Singapore Sale held
today, Peranakan Place and in June (see p253). There is a
Emerald Hill were originally host of other shops from
granted in 1845 to Englishman branded Western retailers
William Cuppage. Emerald Hill such as Marks & Spencer,

e Ngee Ann City

391A Orchard Road. Map 2 A4. Tel
6506-0461. q Orchard. @ 7, 14, 16,
65, 77, 106, 111, 123, 124, 143, 167, 171,
174, 190. Open 10am–9:30pm daily.
0 - ∑ ngeeanncity.com.sg

The multicolored shophouses near Peranakan Place Popularly known as “Taka”, Ngee
Ann City has marble twin towers
and a main entrance that has
two silver columns and is
guarded by two hand-carved
foo dogs imported from China
to bring prosperity. The building’s
atrium is five floors high, criss-
crossed by escalators, and
packed with over 100 local and

For hotels and restaurants see p283 and pp300–301

LITTLE INDIA AND ORCHARD ROAD 241

Modern sculpture and fountain in front of Ngee Ann City architect who also designed its
famous rival, Raffles Hotel,
international specialty stores. Chinese immigrant of the Goodwood competed furiously
The dazzling array of some of 1920s. From selling his wares on for famous guests – Charlie
the world’s prestigious retailers a cart, the dynamic C K Tang Chaplin stayed at Raffles while
includes Gucci, Chanel, Tiffany, nurtured his business into a Goodwood boasted the Duke of
Cartier, Tod’s, Kenzo, Wedgwood, store that rivals all others on Windsor as a patron.
Burberry, Waterford, Bulgari, Louis Orchard Road. From under its
Vuitton, Loewe, and Takashimaya, distinctive pagoda-style roof, it When World War II broke out,
a Japanese department store. now sells everything from Goodwood was again seized,
cosmetics to rice cookers. this time by the occupying
Other facilities at the mall Japanese forces. After the war, it
include a post office, a ticket- was chosen to be the venue of
booking office, a great a court dealing with war crimes.
Kinokuniya bookstore, banks, a
private health club, a night-club, Today, this landmark, the only
and a café with a great view colonial hotel apart from Raffles,
over the Civic Plaza. has returned to its former
incarnation. Its elegant corridors
are lined with art and antique
furniture and in 1989, the
Tower Wing of the hotel,
distinguished by its gable
ends with ornamental plaster
work, was selected as a national
monument. The hotel has
also grown from its original
60 rooms into a 234-room
luxury retreat with a fantastic
range of restaurants.

y Tanglin Mall

19 Tanglin Road. Map 1 E2. Tel 6737-
0849. q Orchard @ 7, 36, 105, 111,
123, 132, 502. Open noon–6pm Mon–
Sat. 0 - = ∑ tanglinsc.com

r Tangs The distinctive tower of the elegant Tucked away at the far end of
Goodwood Park Hotel Orchard Road and removed
310 & 320 Orchard Road. Map 2 A3. from the bustle is the quiet
Tel 6737-5500. q Orchard. @ 7, 14, t Goodwood Park Tanglin Mall, unrivaled for its
16, 36, 64, 65, 77, 106, 111, 123, 124, Hotel array of collectibles, vintage
132, 139, 143, 167, 171, 174, 190, 502, items, antiques, and art. Shop
518, 700. Open 10:30am–9:30pm 22 Scotts Road. Map 2 A3. Tel 6737- after shop offers a veritable
Mon–Thu, 10:30am–11pm Fri & Sat, 7411. q Orchard. @ 54, 105, 124, treasure of Persian rugs,
11am–8:30pm Sun. 0 132, 143, 167, 171, 190, 518, 700. 0 tapestries, curios made of jade
∑ tangs.com.sg = ∑ goodwoodparkhotel.com and brass, and contemporary
The growth of Singapore’s most Southeast Asian art.
famous department store Originally the Teutonia Club for
reflects the vision of a young German expatriates in the early Tanglin, a favorite haunt of
1900s, the Goodwood Park expatriates, is home to some
Tangs department store, popular with both Hotel was declared enemy of the “firsts” and “bests” of
locals and visitors property and seized by the Singapore shopping. Antiques
government when World War I of the Orient, the best-
broke out in 1914. In 1929, the stocked seller of antique
club was converted into a hotel. maps and secondhand books
Designed by J Bidwell, the in Singapore, has fascinating
prints, postcards, and
photographs. Apsara offers a
good collection of Chinese
and Burmese antiques. Also
on offer are impeccably
tailored men’s suits, toy
stores, sportswear, nail bars,
and hairdressers, as well as
some good restaurants.



SINGAPORE AREA BY AREA 243

FARTHER AFIELD

Some of Singapore’s most interesting sights Gardens is a treasure-house of rare orchids
lie outside the city limits. Though much and makes a peaceful retreat. Other sights
of its west is dominated by industrialized of historic and religious significance include
towns such as Jurong, it still contains some the museum at Changi village and Kusu
major tourist attractions including the Island. The island is famous for its turtle
theme park Haw Par Villa, the Science Centre legend and is popular with Taoists and
Singapore, and the fascinating Jurong Bird Muslims. To the south, Sentosa is the city’s
Park. The central north area retains the favorite getaway spot and now boasts the
island’s spectacular primary rain forests and vast Resorts World complex with the Sealife
mangrove swamps and is dedicated to most Aquarium. East Coast Park offers a range of
of its nature reserves, such as Bukit Timah outdoor and indoor activities. The rustic
and Singapore Zoo. The Singapore Botanic island of Pulau Ubin is a peaceful retreat.

Sights at a Glance Themed Attractions

Parks, Gardens, and 3 Singapore Discovery Center
Nature Preserves 5 Science Centre Singapore
1 Singapore Zoo 7 Haw Par Villa
2 Bukit Timah Nature Reserve
4 Jurong Bird Park Outlying Islands
6 Singapore Botanic Gardens pp246–7
0 East Coast Park 8 Kusu Island
9 Sentosa pp250–51
Museum w Pulau Ubin
q Changi Museum

Woodlands Pasir Gudang M A L AY S I A
New Town
Lim Chu Yishun Pulau Pulau Ubin
Kang New Town Punggol

Barat

TAMPINES EXPRESSWAY

Sengkang
New Town
Choa Chu KangLIM CHU KANGBukit Panjang Pasir Ris Changi Point
New Town CHANGI COAST ROADNew TownHougangNew TownFerry Terminal
New Town
Ang Mo Kio Tampines Changi
New Town New Town Village

Bukit Batok PAN Serangoon
Jurong West New Town I
New Town AND Bishan New Town

Jurong East New Town
New Town
SL Toa Payoh Simei
New Town New Town
G
PASIR P Holland Bedok KWAY
Village
Jurong New Town PA R
EAST COAST
Queenstown Tanah Merah
New Town Ferry Terminal

Selat Jurong City Strait of Singapore

Jurong Island ANJAN Tanjong
Pagar
Pulau R
Rentan Laut O AD

Harborfront

Selat Pandan Pasir Panjang 0 km 5
Ferry

Pulau 0 miles 5
Bukum
Sentosa Ferry
Terminal

Key Highway Railroad
Street Finder Major road
Built-up area

Baby parrots at the Jurong Bird Park For keys to symbols see back flap

244 SINGAPORE AREA BY AREA

2 Bukit Timah
Nature Reserve

177 Hindhede Drive. Tel 6468-5736.
q Bukit Batok, then taxi. @ 67, 75,
171. Closed until mid-2016 for
renovations; check website for latest
details. 0 ∑ nparks.gov.sg

The endangered Malayan tiger in Singapore Zoo One of the only two rain forests
in the world that are within city
1 Singapore Zoo and golden-lion tamarins. There limits, Bukit Timah was
is also a children’s petting zoo; established as a reserve in
80 Mandai Lake Road. Tel 6269-3411. aquariums offering clear Singapore in 1883 to protect
q Ang Mo Kio, Choa Chu Kang, underwater views of sea lions the native biodiversity. Today,
Woodlands. @ 138 from Ang Mo Kio, and penguins; and a reptile about 410 acres (164 ha) of the
927 from Choa Chu Kang, 926 from garden with several different rain forest, which once covered
Woodlands bus interchange (Sun & habitats. The zoo’s breeding the entire island, still exist,
public hols). Open 8:30am–6:30pm program is well known and it containing a cornucopia of flora
daily. & 7 8 optional. 0 = has the distinction of fostering and fauna, and providing a
∑ zoo.com.sg Night Safari: Open the world’s first tropical birth of refuge for many mammals,
7:30pm–midnight daily (last adm a polar bear cub. There are daily birds, and reptiles. Bukit Timah
11pm). & ^ animal shows and feeding times has cycling and walking trails,
featuring sea lions, elephants, one of which leads to the
Set in refreshingly green primates, and reptiles. Visitors highest point, Bukit Timah Hill,
and peaceful surroundings, also have the opportunity to 540 ft (164 m) above sea level.
the Singapore Zoo is one of have breakfast or tea with the The reserve should be open
the world’s few open zoos, orangutans, which makes it a again from mid-2016 following
where animals roam freely in wonderful and memorable visit. closure for restoration work.
landscaped enclosures that
simulate their habitats. Dry The Night Safari, sprawled Cycling on the bike track at the Bukit Timah
and wet moats camouflaged over 100 acres (40 ha) of lush Nature Reserve
by waterfalls and vegetation secondary forest next to the
separate the animals from zoo, is a night zoo and a wildlife 3 Singapore
visitors. While some animals, park combined. This unique Discovery Center
such as leopards, jaguars, and sight allows visitors to observe
pumas still have to be kept in the nocturnal activities of over 510 Upper Jurong Road. Tel 6792-
glass enclosures, others such 2,500 animals belonging to over 6188. q Boon Lay. @ 182, 193 from
as monkeys and peahens 110 different species. A 45- Boon Lay. Open 9am–6pm Tue–Sun.
roam freely. minute guided tram ride (with a & 7 0 = ∑ sdc.com.sg
hop-on-hop-off option) takes
The zoo houses about 3,000 visitors through eight habitats Originally intended as a
animals, representing 290 designed to resemble the museum to showcase the
species. Several of them are rare Himalayan, Indian, Nepalese, history of Singapore Armed
such as the white (Bengal) tiger African, Indo-Malayan, South- Forces (SAF), the Singapore
and clouded leopard, while east Asian, South American, and Discovery Center today gives an
others are endangered species Burmese geographical regions. interesting glimpse into
such as the Komodo dragon There is also a Wallaby Trail Singaporean life. Visitors can
and the Malayan tiger. where visitors can observe learn about Singapore’s past,
some of Australia’s native
Major exhibits include Wild nocturnal species, including
Africa with its white rhinos and bush-tail possums, sugar gliders
magnificent lions, the Fragile and wallabies. The River Safari is
Forest, which is a walk-through an extension to the Zoo and
rain forest filled with butterflies, Night Safari, focusing on river
bats, and birds, and the Primate fish, mammals, and reptiles.
Kingdom featuring lion-tailed
macaques, brown capuchins,

For hotels and restaurants see p283 and p301

FARTHER AFIELD 245

5 Science Centre
Singapore

15 Science Centre Road, off Jurong
Town Hall Road. Tel 6425-2500.
q Jurong East. @ 66, 178, 198, 335.
Open 10am–6pm daily. 7 0 -
= ∑ science.edu.sg
Omnimax Theater: Open 9:30am–
8:30pm Tue–Sun and public hols. &
∑ omnitheatre.com.sg

Iguanas in the Reptile Garden, Singapore Zoo Acclaimed as one of the world’s
top ten science museums, the
present, and future through endangered birds, can be seen Science Centre Singapore has
various interactive exhibits. at Jurong Bird Park. The park has over 1,000 hands-on exhibits in
Located on the Singapore four aviaries, including the eight galleries that are
Armed Forces Training Institute’s African Waterfall Aviary, the dedicated variously to aviation,
(SAFTI) grounds, the center is world’s largest walk-in aviary. space science, ecology,
about 48,500 sq ft (4,500 sq m), Here, visitors can walk among biotechnology, and IT among
with five main galleries and 1,500 free-flying birds against other disciplines. Visitors can
eight different themes. the backdrop of the world’s explore innumerable scientific
tallest man-made waterfall. phenomena, and the Centre
Key milestone events that Other highlights include the aims to make even the most
shaped present-day Singapore Lory Loft, which is a towering complex of principles more
are presented through aviary offering magnificent accessible and easier to under-
multimedia clips at The Gateway 360-degree views of the stand. The emphasis here is on
gallery, while the So Singapore landscape. This enclosure fostering the learning of
Theatre is a fun way of finding showcases one of the largest science and technology in a
out about how the different collections of Southeast Asian creative, entertaining, and
races live in harmony in birds in the world. The penguin interactive way.
Singapore. At the Singapore enclosure has a recreated
Works gallery interesting games Antarctic environment. Daily Exhibits at the Science
teach visitors about the birdshows include the World of Centre include one that
challenges Singapore faces Hawks, which features a enables visitors to experience
being a small island with no demonstration of the hunting the world from within a fish-
resources of its own. Singapore skills of birds of prey. The Birds ‘n’ bowl. There is also a mock
Way deals with hopes, dreams, Buddies show is an entertaining television studio, where
and aspirations, and the display by birds of different children are encouraged to
Visionarium gallery allows visitors species who wear costumes become journalists for a day.
an opportunity to contribute ideas and talk to each other. Children
to the Singapore of the future. will love the Birdz of Play Next door, the Omnimax
playground, which has both wet Theater features spectacular
The center has a spectacular and dry bird-themed play zones. educational movies on science,
light and sound show with technology, history, adventure
kaleidoscopic images of sports, space, and the universe.
Singapore. For a truly sensory The movies are projected on
experience, a visit to Singapore’s gigantic hemispherical screens
largest flat screen theater with in a 276-seat theater.
2D and 3D movies is a must. The
center also has a popular
shooting range.

4 Jurong Bird Park

2 Jurong Hill, off Ayer Rajah
Expressway. Tel 6265-0022. q Boon
Lay. @ 194, 251 from Boon Lay. Open
8:30am–6pm daily. & 8 0 =
∑ birdpark.com.sg

More than 5,000 birds across Science Centre Singapore, a place to explore science and technology
380 species from all over the
world, including exotic and

246 SINGAPORE AREA BY AREA

6 Singapore Botanic Gardens

The Singapore Botanic Gardens are located close to the .National Orchid Garden
bustling city and have served as a peaceful sanctuary since With over 1,000 species, this
1859. This idyllic garden sits on 130 acres (52 ha) of land and beautifully landscaped garden has
is dotted with lakes inhabited by swans, ducks, and turtles. the largest display of tropical
The park is excellent for a stroll around its pretty waterfalls, orchids in the world.
landscaped fountains, and well-situated rest spots. Refrains of
orchestral music can at times be heard from outdoor concerts.
It has both primary jungle and manicured lawns. The gardens’
orchid breeding program, begun in 1928, has produced more
than 2,000 hybrids, with more being added each year. The
garden has a reference library containing journals, rare books,
and botanical illustrations dating back to 1875.

VIP Orchid Garden
In 1928, the government
started breeding hybrid
orchids, and after 1957 started
naming selected ones for
distinguished guests.

Bandstand
This octagonal bandstand was

popular in the 1860s, when
promenading in the gardens
while listening to music
played by a band was a
fashionable pastime.

KEY Sculptures
Girl on a Swing (1984) is the first of
1 Swan Lake is home to a a series of works created by
host of swans as well as a variety Sydney Harpley.
of pond flora.

2 Burkill Hall was home to
many of the Garden’s past
directors, including Isaac Henry
Burkill and his son.

3 The Tan Hoon Siang Mist
House contains rare orchid blooms.
Cultural artifacts particular to the
orchid’s country of origin are
displayed alongside.

For hotels and restaurants see p283 and p301

FARTHER AFIELD 247

. Yuen-Peng McNeice Bromeliad House VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
The collection of 20,000 bromeliads, which come from the forests of
Practical Information
Central and South America, was donated by Lady Yuen-Peng McNeice. Cluny Road. Map 1 D1. Tel 6471-
7361. n Visitors’ Center, Evans
More than 700 species and 500 hybrids can be seen. Road. Open 5am–midnight daily.
& orchid garden. 8 Sat. 0 -
Outdoor concerts some
weekends. ∑ sbg.org.sg

Transport
q Botanic Gardens. @ 7, 105,
106, 123.

Towards Eco Lake and Jacob
Ballas Children’s Garden

EJH Corner House
This colonial bungalow houses Au Jardin
les Amis, which is one of Singapore’s top
fine-dining restaurants.

0 meters 100
0 yards 100

Symphony Lake Visitors’ Center
On an islet in the middle of Symphony Lake is the The center has an information counter, a café, a shop,
Shaw Foundation Symphony Stage. Concerts and and restrooms, as well as ample parking space. It has
performances are regularly held in the pavilion. its own main entrance access from Evans Road.
Volunteers lead free guided tours of selected areas of
the gardens on Saturdays; times and details can
usually be found on the website.

248 SINGAPORE AREA BY AREA

Exhibit from Chinese folklore at Haw Par Villa 0 East Coast Park

7 Haw Par Villa or November), when Taoist Off East Coast Parkway (ECP). q
and Muslim devotees flock to Bedok. @ 401. 0 - =
262 Pasir Panjang Road. Tel 6872- the island on a pilgrimage. ∑ nparks.gov.sg
2780. q Harbourfront. @ 10, 30, Taoists visit the island’s Tua Pek
51,143, 200. Open 9am–7pm daily. Kong Temple, which is dedi- The stretches of beach along
0= cated to the patron saint of East Coast Park are considered
merchants. Devotees pray for among the best in the country.
This landscaped park and villa prosperity, good luck, and The park stretches for more
has picturesque surroundings, wealth, light joss sticks, and than 6 miles (10 km) along the
carp ponds, and statues and make offerings of flowers coast from Changi Airport to
dioramas depicting aspects of and food. Marina Bay. The seafront is lined
Chinese folklore and traditional with palm trees, shady rest
values. Established by the Muslim devotees climb areas, and park benches. For the
Aw brothers, Haw and Par, with 122 steps up a steep hill to visit fitness-conscious there are
the fortune they made from a Malay shrine of Keramat Kusu. walking and jogging paths,
Tiger Balm, a camphor and Childless couples mark their well-marked cycling and in-
menthol remedy still widely prayers by tying pieces of cloth line skating tracks, and a
sold today, this theme park is around trees on their way up competition-standard
based on Chinese legends and to the shrine. skateboarding park. Bicycle
myths and aims to teach hire shops in the area offer a
traditional values. Over 1,000 The island is known for its choice of racers and mountain
statues and tablets show two blue lagoons, its vast bikes or tandems for couples.
mythical creatures and tell pristine beaches, and a wish- There is also an in-line skate
stories from Chinese folklore. ing well. It has undergone rental and repair store.
The Ten Courts of Hell section much development and has a
is one of the most popular, pleasant spot for picnics. Fishing enthusiasts can set
graphically portraying the However, overnight stays are up their rods; picnickers can
punishments for sins such as not permitted on the island. pitch tents on the beach;
gambling and theft. health buffs can work out at
9 Sentosa the outdoor fitness stations,
and bird-watchers can take
8 Kusu Island See pp250–51. a walk through designated
bird sanctuaries.

The pleasing sea breezes
and scenic views of the East
Coast Park make this a very
fashionable place to live. The
area is well provided with bars,
chic restaurants, and a host of
recreational facilities. The food
on offer ranges from fast food
and hawker fare to seafood and
Western snacks. At the East
Coast Recreation Center, indoor
activities such as bowling,
snooker, and children’s games
can be enjoyed. For watersports,
kayaks and windsurf boards can

Tel 6534-9339 for ferry times.
@ 402. g from Marina South Pier.
& includes ferry ticket.
∑ islandcruise.com.sg

According to legend, Kusu Taoist Tua Pek Kong Temple on Kusu Island
Island, or Turtle Island, was
actually a giant turtle which
transformed itself into land to
save two shipwrecked sailors,
one Chinese and one Malay.

Located 3 miles (5 km) off
Singapore, Kusu Island receives
most of its visitors during the
eleventh lunar month (October

For hotels and restaurants see p283 and p301

FARTHER AFIELD 249

be hired from the Mana Mana prisoner Stanley Warren on the line the beach; and fishing nets
Beach Restaurant and Bar.
Holiday chalets can be rented walls, are also on display. spread out to dry in the sun.
for short-term stays. These
chalets on the beachfront also In the museum’s courtyard is The island has a variety of
provide facilities such as
swimming pools, spas, and a replica of the simple thatched- flora and fauna and includes
barbecue pits. The East Coast
Park is a local favorite, especially roof wooden chapel built by the species that once existed on
for weekend family outings.
POWs. The brass cross at the the mainland but now can
Families cycling along well-marked tracks at
East Coast Park wreathed altar was crafted out only be found here. These

q Changi Museum of spent artillery casings. include various fruit trees

1000 Upper Changi Road North. Tour groups of ten or more such as coconut, durian,
Tel 6214-2451. q Tanah Merah,
Tampines. @ 2, 29. Open 9:30am– people are required to inform rambutan, and jackfruit, wild
5pm (4:30pm last admission). 5
5:30pm Sun. 8 - = the museum of their visit, at berries, wild orchids, the insect-
∑ changimuseum.sg
least three days in advance; call trapping pitcher plant, several
Changi Prison, which once
served as a World War II for further details. medicinal plants and herbs,
prisoner-of-war (POW) camp
for Allied troops, is still in use. and mangrove flora. The
Changi Museum is located just
up the road from the prison, at w Pulau Ubin island’s wildlife includes
the site of the Old Changi Prison monkeys, monitor lizards,
Chapel. The museum is
dedicated to all those who lived q Tanah Merah, Tampines. @ 2, 29. water hens, squirrels, fruit
and died in Singapore, in 4 from Changi Village. Open daily. bats, and snakes such as
particular the prisoners who 0-=® pythons and cobras. The waters
suffered unspeakable torture at around the island teem with
the hands of Japanese jailers
during their internment here. Singapore’s second largest fish, crabs, and prawns. Pulau

Over the years, the museum offshore island, Pulau Ubin, Ubin is also a good spot for
has amassed a valuable
collection of photographs, which sits in the Johor Strait bird-watchers as birds of prey
paintings, and personal effects
donated by former POWs and between Changi and the such as eagles, kites, and
their families. A selection of
photographs by George mouth of the Johor River, is hawks, and migratory birds
Aspinall, then a young
Australian trooper, and more perhaps the last place left nest here during the northern
than 400 sketches by W R M
Haxworth are among the works for a peek into the rustic winter months. Bicycles can be
of art by various prison artists
that are showcased here. atmosphere of Singapore rented from the jetty. The
Replicas of the Changi Murals,
which were originally drawn by as it was in the 1960s. community

A Malay and Chinese center nearby

community once has a good

engaged in farming, collection of

granite quarrying, photographs of life

and fishing on the on the island

island. Today, only during its heyday.

about 200 people There are also a

live on Pulau Ubin. Jackfruit grown in few seafood rest-

Measuring only 5 miles Pulau Ubin aurants, old-style

(8 km) across and 1 coffee shops, and

mile (1.5 km) wide, Pulau Ubin sundry shops that offer

is the site of a traditional Malay necessities for the visitor, such

fishing village. The remnants of as insect repellent, sunblock,

rural kampung life can still be hats, canned drinks, and snacks.

seen here: attap, or thatched- A couple of taxis ply the gravel

roof, and zinc-roofed wooden tracks. Campsites, chalets, and

houses stand on stilts; sam- lodges provide overnight

pans, or wooden fishing boats, accommodation on the island.

Rustic Malay kampung house on Pulau Ubin