DK Eyewitness Travel Malaysia _ Singapore 2016

152 MALAYSIA REGION BY REGION

r Kota Bharu exhibits is the singakerti, an
impressive royal carriage shaped
Situated in the northeast corner of the peninsula, near the in the form of a mythical beast.
mouth of Sungai Kelantan, Kota Bharu, or new fort in Malay, is
the state capital of Kelantan, and perhaps the most traditional The towering Muhammadi Mosque,
Malay and predominantly Muslim city in the country. A northwest of the city center
modern city on the surface, Kota Bharu is a repository of
culture, crafts, and religion. It is rich in palaces, museums, and U Muhammadi Mosque
mosques, and offers a fine regional cuisine. Traditional skills Jalan Sultanah Zainab.
and customs such as kite-flying, silver-working, and weaving Near the palaces, which are
thrive here. Prayer times are rigorously observed, when all clustered near Padang Merdeka,
activity comes to a standstill, especially on Fridays, the Muslim the imposing Muhammadi
holy day. Most of the city’s attractions lie in its northeast Mosque was built in 1926
section, at the heart of which is the Pasar Besar, one of the during the reign of Sultan Ismail
most vibrant markets in the country. Kota Bharu is also a IV. Known locally as the Brick
good base to explore the surrounding region. Mosque, it serves as the center
for Muslim dawah, or missionary
many years. This unique Malay activity in Kelantan. Visitors
palace has Thai architectural should dress conservatively,
influences in its design. The ensuring that their arms and
throne room and the audience legs are covered. Non-Muslims
hall are used on important royal are not allowed to enter during
occasions and official state prayer times.
functions. The palace is closed
to the public but visitors can E Islamic Museum
view the beautiful façade. Jalan Sultan. Tel (09) 744-0102.
Open 10:30am–5:45pm Sat–Thu. &
Elegantly furnished dining room at Istana E Istana Jahar Close to the Muhammadi
Batu, now the Royal Museum Jalan Sultan. Tel (09) 744-4666. Mosque is the beautiful old
Open 8:30am–5:45pm Sat–Thu. & wooden building of the Islamic
E Istana Batu Museum, decorated with fine
Jalan Istana. Tel (09) 748-2266. Built by Sultan Ahmad in 1887 carvings. Formerly known as the
Open 8:30am–4:45pm Sat–Thu. & for his son Long Kundur, Istana Serambi Makkah, or veranda
Jahar remains an outstanding to Mecca, it functioned as a
The sky-blue Istana Batu, or stone example of traditional Kelantan religious college, the first of
palace, completed in 1939 by wooden architecture, with its kind in Kelantan. It also
Sultan Ismail, was given by him delicately carved beams, panels,
as a wedding gift to his nephew and iron grilles. It is now the
Sultan Yahya. Once used as a Museum of Royal Traditions
guesthouse for visiting royalty and Custom. Its collections
and a wedding venue for the include textiles, brass and
sultan’s family, it has been made silverware, and artifacts related
into the Royal Museum. Rooms to various royal rituals and
preserved in their original state ceremonies, such as weddings
display royal artifacts such as old and births. The Weapons Gallery
family pictures and glassware. displays spears, old keris, and
other weapons. Perhaps the
most impressive among all the

P Istana Balai Besar The green and white façade of the Islamic Museum
Jalan Tengku Seri Akar.
Closed to public.

Standing at the very center of
town, surrounded by a wooden
fort, Istana Balai Besar is a
traditional Kelantan palace. Built
in 1844 by Sultan Muhammad II,
it served as the official residence
of the royal family of Kelantan for

For hotels and restaurants see pp280–81 and pp295–6

EASTERN AND CENTRAL PENINSULA 153

symbolized the prominence of and evenings Mar–Oct, except during VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Islam in the state. The museum the Ramadan period.
now houses a display of photo- Practical Information
graphs and artifacts that give an The city’s premier cultural NE Kelantan. * 1,310,000.
account of the history of Islam center, Gelanggang Seni n Jalan Sultan Ibrahim,
in the state. organizes cultural shows (09) 748-5534. _ Kite Festival
and exhibitions to showcase (May/Jun), Drum Festival (Jul),
E World War II Memorial a wide variety of traditional Sultan’s Birthday (Jul).
Museum Kelantan arts and sports,
Jalan Sultan. Open 8:30am–4:45pm many of which are in danger Transport
Sat–Thu. & of dying out. There are free ~£@
performances of silat, a Malay
Located in the old Bank Kerapu, martial art form, and mak yong kite-flying using huge Kelantan
the World War II Memorial and manohra, traditional moon kites called wau bulan.
Museum contains more than dance-dramas accompanied There are also performances
1,000 exhibits, pictures, and by gamelan music. Drummers of spellbinding shadow-
guns that document the perform on huge rebana, drums puppet plays called wayang
Japanese occupation of made out of hollowed logs, and kulit, using characters and
Kelantan during the Second kertok, smaller coconut drums. stories from the fascinating
World War. Kota Bharu was the The center presents displays of Hindu epics of the Ramayana
landing point for the Japanese gasing, the traditional game of and the Mahabharata.
forces in Malaysia, on December wooden top-spinning, and
8, 1941. During the invasion the
bank also functioned as the
headquarters of the Japanese
secret police, or kempetai.
Another display of photographs
and arms dates from the years
of the Emergency, when British
and Malay troops fought a long-
running struggle against the
Chinese Communist Party of
Malaya between 1948 and 1960.
An upstairs gallery describes the
history of prewar Kelantan.

E Gelanggang Seni A traditional kite-maker surrounded by colorful kites in Kota Bharu
Jalan Mahmood. Tel (09) 744-3124.
Open timings vary, call to confirm;
free shows Mon, Wed, Fri afternoons

Kota Bharu City Center JLN. ATAS BANGGOL JALAN WAKAF MEK ZAINAB

1 Istana Batu JALAN MERBAU JALAN KEBUN SULTAN
2 Istana Balai Besar Istana Batu

3 Istana Jahar Islamic Muhammadi Airport
4 Muhammadi Mosque Museum Mosque 3 miles (5 km)
5 Islamic Museum
6 World War II Memorial World War II Istana Jahar JPAELNAGCNKHAELPAAN
JLN. PINTU PONG
Museum Memorial MPAERDDAENKGA Central JLN. SRI CEMERLANG
7 Gelanggang Seni Museum
JALAN POST
OFFICE LAMA Istana Balai Market

Besar JLN. DOKTORJALAN PADONG GARONG
JLN. DATO PATI
SJLENM.ETR. AP.K General
JLN. CHE SU Hospital
JLN. MAHMOOD
JALAN HOSPITAL

JALAN SU LTANAH Z AINAB JALAN JLN. BAYAM JALAN DUSUN MUDA
JAZLAAINNASBULTAN
S U LTA N Gelanggang

0 meters 500 Istana Seni BAYA M
0 yards 500 Kota
Lama JLN.

Sultan Yahya Petra Bridge Pacific KB Mall IBRAHIM

Hamzah JLN. KUALA KERAI JLN. PASIR PUTIH
Bus Station
JALAN HAMZ A H

Langgar KUALA LUMPUR
Bus Station

For keys to symbols see back flap

154 MALAYSIA REGION BY REGION

buildings and grounds are large
and imposing. The main
attraction here is a 131-ft- (40-m-)
long phra non, or Reclining
Buddha that was built in 1975.

Wat Phothivihan is a social,
cultural, and spiritual center for
Thai, Chinese, and Indian
worshipers. Its monks are
always eager to show vistors
around. The temples and
groves also elicit the secular
interest of Muslims who view it
as a tourist attraction.

The elaborate temple roof of Wat Phothivihan i Wat
Machimmaram
t Tumpat cooking on the spot. Visitors
should bear in mind that the Kampung Jubakar, near Tumpat.
9 miles (15 km) NW of Kota Bharu. east coast of Kelantan is pre- @ from Kota Bharu or Tumpat.
£ @ from Kota Bharu. dominantly Malay Muslim, and # 7am–5pm daily. _ Vesak Day
dressing modestly is advisable. (Apr/May).
Located in a predominantly

agricultural region, the little One of the many Buddhist

town of Tumpat in Kelantan is a u Wat temples in the Thai villages of
Kelantan, Wat Machimmaram is
center of the Orang Syam

people. It is also an important Phothivihan located in the village of
Kampung Jubakar on the main
transport hub for southbound

travelers on the Jungle Railway 2 miles (3 km) S of Chabang Empat, road between Kota Bharu and
track or northbound travelers to near Tumpat. @ from Kota Bharu or the Thai border. As in
nearby Thailand. Tumpat. # 7am–5pm daily. neighboring Thailand, the ketek,
_ Vesak Day (Apr/May). or temple, has familiar lotus-
Tumpat is a good place to

start exploring the region’s shaped corner stones, gilded

numerous Thai Buddhist tem- Within Kelantan, the lives of Thai spires of venerable chedi, or

ples, always a surprising and Buddhists are organized around stupas, lacquered doors, and

colorful sight in the otherwise 20 or so monasteries. One of the shuttered windows. Its most

strictly Islamic Kelantan. most interesting of these, Wat outstanding feature is a statue

Phothivihan is worth visiting for of the Seated Buddha, con-

y Pantai Dasar its elaborate temple roof and structed by local Thai Buddhists
Sabak saffron-clad monks, both of and said to be the largest in
which form a marked contrast to Southeast Asia. At about 105 ft

8 miles (13 km) NE of Kota Bharu. the surrounding Muslim villages. (32 m), the statue towers
@ from Kota Bharu. Built in 1973 by chief abbot over the surrounding Kelantan
plains, making a definite
Phra Krurasapia Chakorn, the

To the north and east of Kota monastery attracts thousands statement about the presence of

Bharu are several attractive of Thai pilgrims every year. As Theravada Buddhism in this

beaches overlooking the South with most Thai temples, the predominantly Islamic state.

China Sea. One of the most

easily accessible is Pantai Dasar

Sabak. Situated near the Malay

fishing village of Sering, it is a

dazzling stretch of palm-lined

beach and has a significant

history. On December 8, 1941,

the Imperial Japanese Navy

troops landed here in one of

Japan’s first acts of aggression

during World War II.

It is possible to combine

an excursion to the beach with

an opportunity to watch the

return of the local fishing fleet in

the afternoon, and perhaps to

buy some fresh seafood for A golden seated Buddha and ornate pillars at Wat Machimmaram

For hotels and restaurants see pp280–81 and pp295–6

EASTERN AND CENTRAL PENINSULA 155

oThe Jungle Railway Tips for Travelers

One of the most delightful ways of exploring the wild Starting point: Tumpat, 9 miles
(15 km) from Kota Bharu.
interior of Peninsular Malaysia is by the Jungle Railway, Getting there: by taxi, or by bus
no. 27, 27A, and 43 from Central
officially called the East Coast Line. Considered an engin- Bus Station, Kota Bharu.
Duration: 15 hours by daytime
eering marvel when it was completed in 1931, it created slow train from Tumpat to
Gemas; 10 hours by overnight
links between the east coast state of Kelantan with the west express train.

coast states of Kedah, Perak, and Penang. This line winds its 1 Tumpat
The line starts at Tumpat
way south from Kelantan through the spectacular jungle in the north, a small
agricultural town in rural
gorges of Kuala Lipis to join the main line from Singapore to Kelantan that is chiefly noted
for the several Thai temples in
Kuala Lumpur at Gemas. its vicinity.

THAILAND Kota Bharu

Wakaf Bharu •

•

Pasir Mas
•

Tanah Pasir Putih
Merah •
•

Jeli Kelantan • •Raja

• Machang

Dabong Tembeling

• •

2 Kuala Krai Nengg iri K E L A N T A N
The Railway passes by the
banks of the Sungai Lebir
Kelantan near the
settlement of Kuala Krai, 3 Gua Musang
which is surrounded by An isolated town, Gua Masang
rubber plantations and
dense rain forest. Merapoh Tahan is known for its caves and
trekking opportunities, but is
4 Kuala Lipis • dependent on timber for its
Located at the economic survival.
confluence of Jelai and Gunung Tahan
Lipis rivers, this former 7,175 ft
gold-mining town is
known for its tranquility Kenong Rimba
and lovely colonial State Park • Kuala Tahan
architecture.
Jelai 5 Jerantut
A popular gateway
Batu to Taman Negara (see
• Sembilan pp144–5), this small town has
several restaurants and
Benta • •Kuala Tembeling accommodation options.
•
Kerambit

• Pahang

Raub
PAHANG

Maran
•

0 km 50 KUANTAN
0 miles
50 Mentakab• •
Temerloh

KUALA Triang Kerayong
LUMPUR
•

•

Key Ayer • Pos 6 Gemas
Hitam Iskandar The Jungle Railway
Minor road ends at Gemas, a busy
Railroad Bahau • junction town with
International border excellent road and rail
State border • links to Kuala Lumpur
Peak and Johor Bahru.
NEGERI
SEMBILAN

Segamat

•

• JOHOR
BAHRU
Tampin

For keys to symbols see back flap



MALAYSIA REGION BY REGION 157

SARAWAK

Teeming with natural wonders, including precipitous
mountains, lush rain forests, abundant wildlife, and some of
the world’s largest caves, Sarawak is nicknamed the Land of
the Hornbill. This diversity of flora and fauna, along with
Sarawak’s swashbuckling history and the cultural heritage of its
indigenous people, attracts increasing numbers of visitors to the state.

Sarawak’s first inhabitants were cave- The state is blessed with an abundance
dwelling hunter-gatherers who lived of natural resources, and petroleum
here about 40,000 years ago. Evidence and forestry became the mainstay
of the existence of early settlements of Sarawak’s economy in the 20th
was discovered in 1958 at Niah Caves in century. Sarawak’s population of
the northeast of the state, testifying 2.4 million largely comprises the
to Sarawak’s long, although largely indigenous people known collectively
unwritten, history of human habitation. as Dayaks, while the remaining minority
are the Orang Ulu.
Until the mid-19th century, the region
was governed by the Sultan of Brunei Most people live in the southwest of
whose imposition of heavy taxes led to the province, in and around the historic
frequent rebellions by local indigenous capital of Kuching. The city is an excellent
groups. During one such outbreak in base for visiting the traditional Dayak
1839, the English adventurer James longhouses, wildlife reserves, and
Brooke entered the service of the Sultan national parks scattered throughout the
and subdued the rebels. For this, he province. The breathtaking ancient
was rewarded with the title of Rajah, limestone pinnacles at Mulu National
becoming the first of the White Rajahs Park are excellent for trekking and rock
(see p163) who ruled an area the size of climbing. These, together with Niah
Britain as their private kingdom for over a Caves and Bako National Park – one of
century. Sarawak joined the Federation of Sarawak’s oldest national parks – are the
Malaysia in 1963. highlights of a visit to the state.

Mother and baby orangutan moving through the trees at Semenggoh Nature Reserve
Trekking to the giant caves of Mulu National Park

158 MALAYSIA REGION BY REGION

Exploring Sarawak The opulent façade of Masjid Jamek, or
Friday Mosque, Brunei
Located in northwest Borneo, Sarawak is the largest
state in Malaysia and is famous for its diversity of
flora and fauna. Within easy reach of its capital,
Kuching, are beautiful national parks and scenic
beaches. Flanked by longhouse settlements of the
Dayaks, the Batang Rajang meanders through
the heart of the state as the main channel of
communication with the towns of Sibu, Kapit, and
Belaga. In the northeast of the state, the Niah Caves
are a site of archaeological significance, while the
limestone outcrops at Mulu National Park are a
climber’s dream. Brunei, one of the world’s smallest
countries, is situated on the northern coast.

Sights at a Glance

Towns, Cities, and Regions 9 Gunung Gading Themed Attractions
1 Kuching pp160–63 National Park 5 Sarawak Cultural Village
3 Santubong
7 Sematan q Semenggoh Wildlife Centre Islands and Beaches
r Sibu w Bako National Park pp168–9 4 Damai Beach
o Similajau National Park

t Kapit a Niah Caves National Park South
y Belaga s Lambir Hills National Park

u Mukah d Loagan Bunut National Park MUKAH China
i Bintulu g Mulu National Park pp176–7 Sea
p Miri
h Brunei pp178–9 Rivers Balingian
2 Sungai Santubong
Parks and Preserves e Batang Rajang Sirik Matu Kut
6 Kubah National Park and Daro
Areas of Natural Beauty Narub Rumah
Matang Wildlife Center 0 Wind Cave and Fairy Cave Changgan
8 Tanjung Datu f Kelabit Highlands Igan
Nanga
National Park Tamin Mambong

SIBU Sekuau Mukah

Belawai Binatang Rajang BATANG
Sarikei RAJANG
TANJUNG DATU
Grigat Song
NATIONAL PARK Kanowit
Julau Rumah Besi
DAMAI Roban Pakan Rumah
Tungku
SEMATAN SARAWAK BEACH BAKO NATIONAL Uka

CULTURAL PARK Kabong
Saratok
VILLAGE SANTUBONG Beladin Pusa Penom Rumah
GUNUNG Layang

GADING NP SUNGAI SANTUBONG
KUBAH Sadong
NP Bau LayarDebak
KUCHING Lupar
Simunjan
Betong
WIND CAVE Siburan Bandar
AND FAIRY CAVE Sri Aman Batang Ai
SEMENGGOH Reservoir
WILDLIFE Gedong Engkilili
CENTRE
Ensabang
Lubok Antu

0 kilometers 50
0 miles
50

For hotels and restaurants see pp281–2 and pp296–8

SARAWAK 159

Key

Highway Bandar Seri Sundar
Major road Begawan Lawas
Minor road
International border Tutong Limbang Trusan
State border

Peak

Kuala Belait Seria Nanga Long
Medamit Tengoa
MIRI Labi R U N E I
LAMBIR HILLS B Long Long
NATIONAL PARK Merarap Semado

Bekenu MULU NATIONAL Gunung Mulu Gunung Murud
7,799 ft 7,999 ft
NIAH CAVES Beluru PARK
NATIONAL PARK Long S
Seridan KELABIT HIGHLAND
Suai
Laogan Long Banio Gunung Batu Iran
6,703 ft Bario

Bunut
Tutoh
Anap LOAGAN BUNUT Long

SIMILAJAU NATIONAL PARK Aar
NATIONAL PARK
Long Luyang
Tinjar
emena Long Sobin Bukit Kalulong Long
Long San Lellang

Labang K 4,003 ft Lio Matoh Long Banga

BINTULU Tubau Long Nibong
Sebauh
Bukit Punum Long Baram
4,154 ft Palai

Belaga Belepah Long Tikan

Rumah Melap Long Murum
Sangan

Rumah Rumah Kesing BELAGA Long Tingen
China

Rajang Long Geng Danum

S AR Balui
AWA K
Merit

Bukit Batu Bukit Kerangan Malarang
6,601 ft Rumah Kulit
Nyabong
KAPIT 2,490 ft Bukit Kumbong
4,587 ft
Rumah Baleh Nanga Gaat
Jugat

Gaat Rumah Aryl

Rumah Mengiong

Mau Kapuas

Ban

Hulu Bukit Melatai
5,098 ft

Getting Around Aerial view of mangrove forests surrounding
Sungai Sarawak
Domestic flights connect most towns in Sarawak and
are ideal for visitors with limited time. For those with a For keys to symbols see back flap
more leisurely schedule, boat rides are an exciting way
of getting to the remote villages and national parks
and are the most common mode of local transport.
There are speedy passenger ekspres boats as well as
longboats for long- and short-haul journeys. Because
of the rugged terrain, the road network in Sarawak is
limited to a highway between Kuching and the Brunei
border, plus a few short routes from Kuching to places
such as Bako and Semantan.

160 MALAYSIA REGION BY REGION

1 Kuching with a different theme, contain
displays on traditional Islamic
The capital of Sarawak, Kuching is one of Malaysia’s most design, architecture, costumes,
attractive cities with historic buildings juxtaposed against coins, jewelry, decorative arts,
modern high-rises and restaurants. It became the capital of weapons, ceramics, domestic
Rajah James Brooke’s empire in the mid-19th century and was utensils, and weights and
known as Sarawak until 1872 when its name was officially measures. The diverse artifacts
changed to Kuching. Long a confluence of Malay, Chinese, have been very well preserved
Indian, and indigenous people, such as the Iban and Bidayuh, and the displays here are
Kuching reflects its varied cultural influences. Although the some of the best of any
city sprawls both to the north and south of Sungai Sarawak, museum in Malaysia.
the main sights of interest, such as the waterfront, colonial
buildings, and ethnic souvenir shops, are all concentrated E Textile Museum
around the south bank of the Kuching waterfront. Jalan Tun Haji Openg.
Open 9am–4:30pm daily. ^
Sungai Sarawak meandering through the city of Kuching ∑ museum.sarawak.gov.my

E Sarawak Museum dress, ceremonial artifacts, Located in the heart of the city,
it is hard to miss the Pavilion, a
Jalan Tun Haji Openg. Tel (082) 244- musical instruments, and various building decorated with ornate
ironwork. Built in 1907 as a
232. Open 9am–4:45pm Mon–Fri, tools such as the three-pronged hospital, it was used as a
propaganda center by the
10am–4pm Sat, Sun & public hols. ^ pricker that is used by the Iban invading Japanese army during
= ∑ museum.sarawak.gov.my to create tattoos. Among the World War II. Today, the Pavilion
is home to the Textile Museum.
Perhaps one of Malaysia’s highlights on display are a replica Its two floors contain exhibits of
everyday clothes worn by the
finest museums, the Sarawak of an Iban longhouse, Iban war various indigenous groups of
Sarawak, as well as costumes
Museum provides an overview totems, and early 20th-century worn for weddings and other
ceremonies. There are also
of the province’s history and Chinese glazed jars. Rotating models of women engaged in
cloth spinning, weaving, and
ethnography. The artifacts of art exhibitions are held in the dyeing. Traditional songket and
ikat are also on display.
the museum are housed in two Tun Abdul Razak Hall, which
P Tun Jugah Gallery
buildings. The Ethnology is accessible by a footbridge. Level 4, Tun Jugah, 18 Jalan Tunku
Abdul Rahman. Tel (082) 239-672.
Museum is set in a colonial There is also an aquarium. ∑ tunjugahfoundation.org.my

mansion opened in 1891 at the Vivid and fascinating textiles can
also be seen at the Tun Jugah
suggestion of naturalist Alfred E Islamic Heritage Museum Gallery. Here, local people are
reviving the art of making Iban
Wallace who discovered many Jalan P. Ramlee. Tel (082) 244-232. cloths, which use especially
intricate weaving patterns, and
of Sarawak’s endemic species Open 9am–4:45pm Mon–Fri, 10am– are growing the traditional
of flora and fauna. The natural 4pm Sat, Sun & public hols. ^ plants used to dye them.
science section, on the first floor, ∑ museum.sarawak.gov.my
P Round Tower
has stuffed specimens Housed in a restored Jalan Tun Haji Openg. Tel (082) 245-
652. Open 8:30am–12:30pm & 2–5pm
of many of Sarawak’s colonial building that Mon–Fri; 8:30am–noon Sat & Sun.

best-known species, was constructed in 1930 Built in the 1880s, the Round
Tower was originally intended
such as rhinoceros and once functioned as to be a fort, as a defence against
the arrival of pirates, but
hornbills, hawksbill a school to train Malay functioned instead as a
dispensary in its early days. It
turtles, and proboscis teachers, the Islamic now houses the Sarawak Crafts
Council, which has showrooms
monkeys. On the upper Heritage Museum that feature some of the
province’s finest handicrafts,
floor is an introduction presents the history with regular demonstrations.

to the traditional of Islam and its spread

lifestyles of Sarawak’s in Sarawak as well as

main indigenous the rest of the Malay-

groups, with displays of Detail of a burial pole Indonesian archipelago.

handicrafts, traditional at Sarawak Museum Its seven galleries, each

For hotels and restaurants see pp281–2 and pp296–8

KUCHING 161

VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Practical Information
SW Sarawak. * 500,000.
n Courthouse Complex, (082)
423-600; National Parks and
Wildlife Booking Desk, (082) 248-
088. ∑ sarawaktourism.com

Transport
k@

Colonial buildings with ironwood roofs in the Courthouse Complex roofs that are supported by
Romanesque and regal columns.
P Jalan India wooden mosque, it quickly It was built in 1871 as the seat of
Near the waterfront. Masjid Bandaraya: became one of the city’s most Sarawak’s government, which
Open 9am–3pm Sat–Thu. Closed Fri. distinctive landmarks. Non- remained its function until 1973.
Muslims, dressed appropriately, The state’s law courts continue to
On the western edge of the city are allowed to enter except at operate from here, and the main
center, near the main produce prayer times. The mosque has court chamber, with walls and
market on Jalan Gambier, the now been superseded in size by ceiling covered with murals
pedestrianized Jalan India is the State Mosque across the depicting rural life in Sarawak, is
one of Kuching’s most popular river at Petrajaya, which can worth visiting. The Clock Tower
shopping streets. Most of the accommodate 14,000 worshipers. at the front of the complex was
shops are fronted by colonial- added in 1883 and the granite
style arches and sell textiles, P Courthouse Complex Charles Brooke Memorial in
shoes, brassware, souvenirs and Junction of Main Bazaar and Jalan Tun 1925. At the four corners of the
household goods. Dominating Haji Openg. Closed Mon. memorial are stone figures
the western end of the street is representing the principal ethnic
the large and impressive Masjid A splendid example of Kuching’s groups of Sarawak – the Dayaks,
Bandaraya, or City Mosque, colonial heritage, the Court- Malays, Chinese, and Orang Ulu.
topped with gilded cupolas. house Complex is a cluster of The complex houses a café and
Built in 1968 to replace an old buildings covered with ironwood the Sarawak Tourism Board’s
Visitor Information Center.

Kuching City Center

1 Sarawak Museum 8 Square Tower 0 meters 250

2 Islamic Heritage 9 Kuching Waterfront 0 yards 250

Museum 0 Tua Pek Kong

3 Textile Museum q Fort Margherita

4 Tun Jugah Gallery

5 Round Tower Cat Museum Astana
2.5 miles (4 km) 350 yards (300 m)

6 Jalan India Sa
7 Courthouse r

Complex Fresh Market Square a KAMPUNG
Tower w
Fort GERSIK
JALAN GAMBIER
k Margherita KAMPUNG
a
INDIA Courthouse BOYAN

JALAN Complex

Masjid BARRACK Round MAIN Kuching Sarawak
Bandaraya TUN HAJI OPENGTower CARPENTER Waterfront

JALAN MOSQUE JALAN BAZAAR

Textile LEBUH JTLENM.PLEWAYANG N TUNKU ABDUL RA HMAN JALAN
Museum A ABELL
JLN. J A L Tun Jugah GalleryJLN. BORNEO
J A L A N P. R A M L E E JLN. St.Thomas
JAL AN PA DUNGAN JLN. PADUNGAN
PadangTUN HAJI OPENG JALAN Cathedral Tua JLN. BUKIT
Merdeka Bishop’s Pek Kong
Great Cat
Tun Abdul House MATH I of Kuching
Razak Hall MCDOUGALL LA N 700 yards (600 m)
J
JALAN RESE ES M ATA KUCHING JALAN
Reservoir SONG THIAN CHEOK
Islamic JALAN Sarawak RVOIR JALA N TABUAN
Heritage Museum A
Museum (Old Wing)

Museum Park
Gardens

Airport Bus Station

9 miles (15 km) 5 miles (8 km)

For keys to symbols see back flap

162 MALAYSIA REGION BY REGION

overview of the evolution of the
Chinese community in Sarawak
through photographs, artifacts,
documents such as maps of
early trade routes, and
information about their
traditional trading activities.

The historic Square Tower, a reminder of the Brooke era  Tua Pek Kong
Jalan Tunku Abdul Rahman.
P Square Tower and has rapidly grown into one Open 6am–10pm daily.
Main Bazaar. Tel (082) 426-093. of the city’s most popular spots _ Chinese New Year (Feb).
Open 10am–4pm daily. for jogging, dining, strolling, and
enjoying a spectacular sunset Located opposite the Chinese
In 1879, the Square Tower was over the river. Sampan (boat) History Museum and over-
built by Rajah Charles Brooke rides are available to cross the looking the river, Tua Pek Kong
just north of the Courthouse to river or for longer cruises. is the oldest Taoist temple in
replace a wooden fort that had Kuching, dating back to 1876.
been burnt down by Chinese Set back a little from the It is thought that the current
gold miners during a rebellion waterfront, the Main Bazaar is structure was preceded by a
in 1857. However, the tower the city’s oldest street and is Chinese temple that existed
was never again needed as a packed with shops. Two of the here in the late 18th century.
defensive structure and over most significant buildings on Vibrantly colored and intricately
the years it was put to other this street, both carefully decorated, the temple is
uses, including a brief role as a restored, are the Sarawak dedicated to Tua Pek Kong, the
prison and later even as a Steamship Building and patron saint of merchants, and
ballroom. The tower is one of Chinese History Museum. is always very busy. It is built on
the few buildings that remain The former, built in 1930, is a site carefully chosen for its
from the Brooke era. now home to the Kuching geomancy, according to
Waterfront Bazaar, which has Chinese tradition. The Wang
P Kuching Waterfront several souvenir and handi- Kang festival to commemorate
Between Square Tower and Hilton crafts stalls. The museum was the dead is also held here.
Hotel. - ( stalls in the evening. built by Rajah Charles Brooke in
Sarawak Steamship Building: 1911 and once functioned as T Fort Margherita
Main Bazaar. Open daily. the Chinese Chamber of North bank of Sungai Sarawak.
Chinese History Museum: Main Commerce. Today, however, g from the jetty near the Square
Bazaar. Tel (082) 231-520. the museum provides an Tower. Closed to the public.
Open 9am–6pm Sat–Thu.
Close to the Astana, along the
riverbank to the east, is Fort
Margherita, with crenellated,
whitewashed walls and large
cannons. This structure, built in
1879 by Rajah Charles Brooke
and named for his wife, was the
second fort to be built on the
site. The first, built by his uncle,

A stroll along the Kuching An early morning view of the Kuching waterfront
waterfront is one of the high-
lights of a visit to the city. In the
mid-1990s, several dilapidated
warehouses along the
waterfront were demolished
and an extensive renovation
project transformed this stretch
into a lovely riverside
promenade. Landscaped
gardens, sculptures, cafés, food
stalls, and benches now
embellish this strip. Several
plaques along the path mark
historical spots. It also offers
spectacular views of the Astana
and Fort Margherita on the
north bank of Sungai Sarawak,

For hotels and restaurants see pp281–2 and pp296–8

KUCHING 163

James Brooke, was

burnt to the ground

by rebel Chinese

gold miners in 1857.

Commanding a

sweeping view of

Sungai Sarawak, Fort

Margherita was built

to protect Kuching

against attack from

pirates and other

enemies approaching

the town by the river

route. However, it never

fulfilled its intended The stately Astana on the north bank of Sungai Sarawak

purpose as Kuching did

not come under attack until Unfortunately, the fort has been the palace consists of three
elegant bungalows with wooden
World War II when the Japanese very poorly maintained and is shingle roofs. Charles Brooke is
said to have grown betel nut on
took control of the entire city. closed to the public. the palace grounds so that he
could offer it to visiting Dayak
An imposing watch tower at Fort P Astana chiefs. The Astana still functions
Margherita in Kuching North bank of Sungai Sarawak. g as the official residence of the
from the jetty near the Square Tower. governor of Sarawak, and is not
open to the public.
On the river’s north bank lies
Kuching’s most important P Cat Statues
historical building, the impres- Kuching means cat in Malay and
sive Astana. The name is a local although the origin of the city’s
version of the Malay word istana, name is uncertain, there are
meaning palace. The Astana was several statues of cats in the
built in 1870 by Rajah Charles town, giving it a unique identity.
Brooke as a gift to his bride, They are all on the south bank of
Margaret. She later reminisced Sungai Sarawak, and include a
about her time here in her 1913 small statue on the waterfront
memoir, My Life in Sarawak. just east of the Chinese History
Museum, a larger one opposite
Set among manicured lawns the Hilton Kuching on Jalan
and offering a lovely view of the Tun Abdul Rahman, and a third
Courthouse on the south bank, at the base of a pillar farther east
along Jalan Pandungan. The
The White Rajahs biggest statue, the 5-ft- (1.5-m-)
tall Great Cat of Kuching, is at
In 1839, British explorer James the junction of Jalan Padungan
and Jalan Central.
Brooke found Sarawak in the grip
E Cat Museum
of a rebellion by the local Dayaks North of Kuching City Hall.
Tel (082) 446-688. @ Petra Jaya bus
against the rule of the Sultan of 2C or 2D. Open 9am–5pm Tue–Sun.
Closed Mon & public hols. & RM3 for
Brunei. After his success in quelling use of camera, RM5 for use of video.

the uprising, he was granted the Located in the new town of
Petra Jaya, on the north bank of
title of Rajah of Sarawak in 1841, the river, the rather kitsch Cat
Museum claims to be one of the
establishing an empire that was to few such museums in the world
dedicated exclusively to cats. It
last for over a century. At the time covers everything to do with
cats, and the exhibits include
of James Brooke’s death in 1868, his cat-related art, stamps, photo-
graphs, music, movies, and even
territory only covered what is now the Garfield comic strips.

southwest corner of Sarawak – the area

around Kuching. It was his successor and

nephew, Charles Brooke, who was Sir James Brooke
responsible for expanding Sarawak to the

current size, and also for commissioning

most of the town’s colonial buildings. A stickler for detail, he

made frequent unannounced inspections of his officers, and any

slack conduct was severely punished. Upon his death in 1917,

Charles was succeeded by his son, Charles Vyner Brooke, and for

a while Sarawak was run as a personal fiefdom. This ended with

the Japanese invasion in 1941. After World War II, Vyner Brooke

ceded the territory to Britain, and in 1963 it became part of the

Federation of Malaysia.

164 MALAYSIA REGION BY REGION

2 Sungai
Santubong

12 miles (20 km) N of Kuching.
@ tour bus to Santubong jetty.
g tour boats between 4 and 5pm.
8 from Kuching.

After meandering through the

plains around Kuching, Sungai

Santubong flows through

Sarawak into the South China

Sea. During the dry season,

between March and October,

groups of the rare Irrawaddy

dolphin are sometimes seen Lagoon-style pool at the Holiday Inn Resort at Damai Beach

feeding and playing around the reclining human figure is still

mouth of the river. These small, 3 Santubong

snub-nosed dolphins are often 19 miles (32 km) N of Kuching. well defined, but many other
difficult to spot as they do not * 800. @ Petra Jaya bus 2B. carvings have eroded.
leap out of the water like their

seafaring cousins. Nevertheless, This fishing village sits near 4 Damai Beach

the experience of watching Sungai Santubong in the

these unusual creatures is a shadow of the 2,657-ft (810-m) 21 miles (35 km) N of Kuching.
major draw on the popular Gunung Santubong. During the @ Petra Jaya bus 2B. 0 ® 
boat trips. Tang and Sung dynasties, which

Some cruises continue down lasted from the 9th century to On the west coast of the

the adjoining Sungai Salak to the 13th century, Santubong Santubong Peninsula, Damai

Kuching Wetlands National was an important trading is one of Sarawak’s prettiest

Park. Covering a vast expanse of center. Today, it is merely a small beaches. Only a short journey

saline mangrove swamps and village but it is worth visiting for from Kuching, and featuring

patches of scrubland, the the colorful wooden houses some beautifully designed

wetlands also include a network built on stilts and fishing boats resorts, the beach is a popular

of small water channels and on the beach, which are very tourist destination and can get

tidal creeks. The swamps are photogenic. The morning is the quite crowded on weekends.

inhabited by a variety of wildlife, liveliest time in Santubong There is a wide selection of

including crocodiles, proboscis when the fishermen sell their watersports on offer, including

monkeys, lorises, and colorful daily catch at the quay. The sailing, snorkeling, and wind-

birds. In the evenings, large cafés nearby are well known surfing, as well as other

groups of fireflies illuminate the for their excellent seafood. activities such as mountain

riverside trees. River cruises are From the main road into biking and golf. Cafés and

the only way to explore the Santubong is a small, easy-to- restaurants here have gained

wetlands, and a number of tour miss turning which leads to a reputation for their superb

operators in Kuching offer trips. Sungai Jaong, one of the most fresh seafood dishes.

important archaeological sites Picturesque trails around

O Kuching Wetlands National in Sarawak. Among its artifacts Gunung Santubong begin here
Park are ancient Buddhist and Hindu and trekking is a popular

9 miles (15 km) N of Kuching. rock carvings, thought to be activity for visitors to Damai
g&8 about 1,000 years old. A Beach. The Santubong Jungle

Trek, with blue trail markers, is

an easy, circular 1-mile (1.6-km)

walk that starts at the Damai

Beach Resort. A more

challenging route that also

begins here is the Gunung

Santubong Summit Trek,

winding up to the top. The

trail, with red markers, takes 5

to 7 hours to complete. It also

requires a good level of fitness,

sturdy hiking shoes, and

plenty of drinking water. The

resorts at Damai can arrange

Gunung Santubong towering over Sungai Santubong for guides.

For hotels and restaurants see pp281–2 and pp296–8

SARAWAK 165

5 Sarawak Cultural Rainforest World Music Festival
Village
In August each year, Sarawak Cultural Village hosts this festival, which
21 miles (35 km) N of Kuching. Tel
(082) 846-411. @ tour bus and Petra celebrates music from around the world. This 3-day event, which has
Jaya bus 2B, 15. Open 9am– 5:15pm
daily; cultural shows at 11:30am and been held every year since 1998, previously featured musicians from as
4pm daily. & 0 = _ Harvest
Festival (May), Rainforest World Music far away as Mali, Mongolia, and Madagascar. The festival now also
Festival (Jul). ∑ scv.com.my
provides a rare opportunity to hear
Located at the foot of Gunung
Santubong, Sarawak Cultural indigenous musicians from various
Village serves as an excellent
introduction to the cultural regions of Malaysia. Seminars and
traditions of Sarawak. Erected
by the Sarawak Development workshops are held during the day,
Corporation in the early 1990s
to give visitors a taste of indig- spontaneous jam sessions take place
enous lifestyles, the village
comprises seven houses in the longhouses, and artistes
clustered around a lake, each
a good example of the trad- perform on outdoor stages in the
itional dwellings built by the
main indigenous groups. evenings. The exotic setting around a
Iban, Bidayuh, and Orang Ulu
longhouses sit side by side lake against the backdrop of Gunung
with a Melanau tall-house, a
Penan hut, a Chinese farm- Santubong makes for an electric
house and a Malay house.
Women and men of respective atmosphere. Accommodation is
groups live in these dwellings
and also demonstrate art available at the resorts on Damai
and craft skills, such as wood-
carving, textile and basket- Beach, and frequent buses run from
weaving, sword-making,
and beadwork. Outside the Kuching for those who prefer to stay
Melanau tall-house is a
demonstration of a traditional in town. It is advisable to check the
sago press, while the process of
blowpipe-making can be seen official website (www.rwmf.net) for Jerry Kamit, a sape (lute-like
at the Penan hut. Visitors can
take part in 3- to 4-day courses information on events. instrument) virtuoso
to learn a particular skill or
craft. A cultural show featuring in elaborate costumes is held Gunung Selang and Gunung
traditional music and dancers daily at the village’s indoor Sendok – form the backdrop to
theater. There is a well-regarded this wildlife haven. Among the
restaurant at the village, too. dipterocarp (hardwood) forests
and gentle waterfalls and
6 Kubah National streams are more than 90
Park and Matang species of palms and a wide
Wildlife Center variety of orchids. Although
there are bearded pigs, mouse
12 miles (20 km) W of Kuching. deer, and other wildlife, these
Tel (082) 248-088. @ from Kuching. are rarely seen. Visitors are more
Open 8am–5:15pm daily. & ®  likely to spot birds such as the
∑ sarawakforestry.com maroon woodpecker or the
rufus-collared kingfisher.
Encompassing 9 sq miles (22 sq
km), Kubah National Park is one Several trails crisscross the
of the smallest and most park and the mountains includ-
accessible parks in Sarawak. A ing the beautiful Waterfall Trail
sandstone plateau and three that leads through split-level
peaks – the 2,990-ft (911-m) falls and a 2- to 3-hour hike to
Gunung Serapi and the smaller the mist-shrouded peak of
Gunung Serapi. Matang Wildlife
Center is nearby, but gains
mixed reviews for its care of
endangered species such as
orangutans, sambar deer,
hornbills, and proboscis
monkeys. Along the Pitcher Trail
are several varieties of the
carnivorous pitcher plant.
Accommodation for the parks
may be booked in advance at
the Visitor Information Center in
Kuching (see p161) or online at
www.ebooking.gov.my.

A Bidayuh woman weaving rattan baskets at the Sarawak Cultural Village O Matang Wildlife Center
8 miles (13 km) N of Kubah. Tel (082)
225-012. @ to Kubah or Matang
Polytechnic, then local minibus. &
-®

166 MALAYSIA REGION BY REGION

7 Sematan 8 Tanjung Datu

100 km (62 miles) W of Kuching. National Park

* 2,300. @ from Kuching to Lundu, 14 miles (23 km) from Sematan. g
STC 17 from Lundu. chartered from Sematan or Teluk

The coastal village of Sematan is Melano. Open Apr–Sep: 8am–5:15pm
a popular weekend retreat for daily. & ∑ sarawakforestry.com

Kuching residents. There is a

long, quiet beach lined with Occupying just 14 sq km (5 sq

coconut palms and colorful miles) on the westernmost tip

fishing boats are harbored in of the state, Tanjung Datu is one

the bay. The village itself is of Sarawak’s smaller, but most

small, consisting of a few rows beautiful, national parks. It has

of shophouses, a local market two stunning beaches, Pasir

with food stalls that serve Antu and Pasir Berunpu, backed

delicious fish dishes, and a jetty. by towering peaks. The real

The tides mean that swimming highlight of the park are the

is not always advisable. Boats beautiful coral reefs, visible in Trekking through a lush trail at Gunung
Gading National Park
go from Sematan to Teluk the crystal-clear water and close
should be obtained from the
Melano, a Malay fishing village enough to the shore to walk Visitor Information Center in
Kuching (see p161).
nestled in a pretty bay on the around. Artificial reefs farther
9 Gunung Gading
Datu Peninsula. The village out in the sea are accessible National Park

has a homestay program by boat. The park’s lush 50 miles (80 km) W of Kuching.
@ STC 17 from Lundu. n Tel (082)
that is organized by the rain forest is home to 735-714 (Park HQ). Open 8:30am–
5:15pm daily. & 8 ® 
Malaysian Fisheries varied wildlife, so ∑ sarawakforestry.com

Board, which enables visitors are likely to In 1983, Gunung Gading
National Park was established as
visitors to stay with local hear gibbon-cries a conservation area for the
world’s largest flower, the
families. Boat trips are not and may even spot rafflesia. Visitors can view the
flowers from walkways which
possible in the monsoon dolphins and turtles have been designed to prevent
people from treading on the
season, from October to Flowers at near the shore. Tanjung fragile young buds that sprout
inconspicuously. The bud grows
March. There is also an Tanjung Datu Datu has four trails of into a foul-smelling red flower
with white specks, and reaches
attractive hotel called varying lengths leading a width of up to 3 ft (1 m). This
rare parasitic plant blooms at
Sematan Palm Beach Resort through an unspoilt forest and unpredictable times and lasts
only a few days, therefore it is
which is a popular place to stay. coastline. There are no facilities advisable to call the park
ahead to check if one is in
For a small fee non-residents for visitors at the park, but given bloom. Visitors can also see
Amorphophallus, a gigantic
can spend the day here and its natural beauty and the idyllic herbaceous plant of the
aroid family.
make use of the facilities, which landscape, a day trip to the park
The park sprawls across four
include a swimming pool and is worth the effort. Permits for jungle-clad mountains, Gunung
Gading, Gunung Perigi, Gunung
bicycle and canoe hire. the park and entry tickets Lundu, and Gunung Sebuloh.
Color-coded trails of varying
Fishing boats docked at the Sematan jetty levels of difficulty crisscross the
park. The easiest is the Waterfall
Trail which passes through
seven cataracts. The challenging

For hotels and restaurants see pp281–2 and pp296–8

SARAWAK 167

Gunung Gading Trail leads up
to the summit of the 2,985-ft
(910-m) hill. Visitors will also find
a natural pool near the Park
Headquarters.

0 Wind Cave and
Fairy Cave

31 miles (50 km) SW of Kuching.
@ STC 2 to Bau from Kuching,
then taxi. Tel (082) 765-490.
Open 8am–5:15pm daily. 8 from
Kuching. ∑ sarawakforestry.com

Two caves formed in a range Mother and baby orangutans at Semenggoh Wildlife Centre
of limestone cliffs located near
the former gold-mining town into a popular shrine. Neither of orangutans to their natural
of Bau make an interesting day the two caves is illuminated and habitat is the primary aim of
trip from Kuching. Wind Cave, flashlights are essential. Be this center and its orangutan
2 miles (3 km) west of Bau, is aware than in the rainy season, rehabilitation program has
made up of a network of under- the caves may be closed. been particularly successful,
ground streams that pass resulting in a thriving popula-
through the cave before joining q Semenggoh tion of semi-wild orangutans
Sungai Kayan. The cave’s interior Wildlife Centre inhabiting the surrounding
is filled with stalagmite and forest. With the forest having
stalactite pillars. A boardwalk 15 miles (24 km) SW of Kuching. reached its capacity to hold
passes through the cave to the Tel (082) 618-325. @ STC 6 from the primates, the program has
river at the other end, which is a Kuching. Open 9–11am & 2–4pm now been transferred to the
popular spot for picnics and daily. & ∑ sarawakforestry.com Matang Wildlife Center (see
swimming. To protect the cave p165). Since the orangutans
and its surrounding limestone This wildlife center functions as roam freely, spotting them is
forest, which is home to a a rehabilitation center for honey not guaranteed. The best
number of rare plant species, bears, orangutans, crocodiles, chance to see them is feeding
including some types of palms, monkeys, gibbons, hornbills, time, around 9am and 3pm.
Wind Cave has been designated and porcupines, all of which
as a nature reserve. were either orphaned due to There are also pleasant
hunting or rescued from cages walking trails around the
Fairy Cave, 3 miles (5 km) where they were kept illegally reserve. A Botanical Research
farther south, is larger and as pets. Reintroducing Center here is dedicated to
accessed by a flight of steps analyzing jungle plants with
leading up to the cave mouth. medicinal properties.
Its main chamber also contains
stalagmite formations. One,
thought to resemble Kuan Yin,
the Chinese goddess of mercy,
has transformed the chamber

The Bidayuh

The Bidayuh are one of the largest indigenous Dayak groups living in Sarawak and have traditionally
been farmers and hunters. Concentrated in the area west of Kuching, their longhouses dot the slopes
of Anna Rais. Unlike other Dayak groups of Sarawak,
they build their longhouses at the foot of hills rather
than on riverbanks. The British referred to them as
“Land Dayaks” to distinguish them from the “Sea
Dayaks” – such as the Iban – who traveled everywhere
by boat. The Bidayuh are particularly skilled at
bamboo-carving, basket-weaving, and beadwork.
Women can be seen sitting on the ruai, or communal
veranda, making bead-covered hats that are used for
special occasions. Among these is the Gawai Padi
festival, held in early June, when Bidayuhs give thanks
to the rice goddess for a bountiful harvest. The
celebration involves singing, dancing, and drinking. The terrace, ruai, of a Bidayuh longhouse

168 MALAYSIA REGION BY REGION

w Bako National Park South China Sea

Established in 1957, Bako was Sarawak’s first national Area of map
park. Spread across 10 sq miles (27 sq km), it nurtures Illustrated
vegetation that ranges from rain forest to swampland
and mangrove forests to kerangas, or scrubland. With 0 kilometers 1 1
steep rocky cliffs punctuated by deep bays, white 0 miles
sandy beaches, and a mangrove-fringed coastline, Teluk Teluk
Bako is a nature-lover’s paradise. It is also one of the Pandan Pandan
best parks in Malaysia for spotting rare animals, such
as proboscis monkeys, bearded pigs, sambar deer, Kecil Besar
and macaques, which makes it a popular destination
for wildlife enthusiasts. Though the park can be visited
on a day trip, the chances of wildlife sightings are
higher in the early morning and in the evening, so
an overnight stay is recommended.

Teluk Batu uk Pandan Besar Trail
Belah

Teluk Paku

Kampung Teluk Tel
Bako Assam
Tajor
Bako Park
Headquarters Bukit
Tambi

Tanjung
Sapi

. Sea Stacks Teluk Serait Trail Ulu As
These towering rock formations are a peculiar characteristic Delima sam Lintang Trail
of Bako’s coastline. They were formed by the action of the
sea on the softer sandstone at the base of the cliffs, which
eroded, leaving behind pillars of harder limestone.

. Bako’s Wildlife KEY
Bako offers opportunities to spot a diverse range of
wildlife, including flying lemurs, monitor lizards, and 1 Lintang Trail is a 3-mile- (5-km-)
150 species of birds. However, the stars of the park long loop route that climbs to a
are the endangered proboscis monkeys, named for sandstone plateau before plunging
their prominent nose, who forage in groups for down to the coast.
mangrove leaves.
2 Teluk Delima Trail is one of
For hotels and restaurants see pp281–2 and pp296–8 the best trails in Bako for spotting
proboscis monkeys.

3 Tajor Trail, 2 miles (3 km) long,
includes a brisk climb up to kerangas
scrubland before descending into a
shady forest.

SARAWAK 169

Sundew Plant VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
With much of the soil in
Practical Information
Bako lacking nutrients, 25 miles (40 km) N of Kuching.
carnivorous plants such Tel (011) 225-049 (Park HQ).
Open 8am–4:15pm daily. - ®
as the pitcher and  Permits: for camping, book in
sundew plants must advance in Kuching at the Visitor
attract and trap insects Information Center (see p161) or
to derive sustenance online at www.ebooking.gov.my.
∑ sarawakforestry.com
from their victims.
Transport
Tanjung Rhu @ to Bako village, then boat to
the Park.

Exploring the Park

Tanjung Rhu Trail There are 18 trails in the park, and each one is color-

coded with splashes of paint on trees, making it easy

to explore without a guide. Viewpoints along the trails

offer great views. There are lodges and a campsite

near the Park Headquarters but bookings should be

made well in advance.

Teluk South China
Tajor Sea

Kerangas Teluk Sibur Trail

Trail Forest Nipah

TajorT Teluk Limau
Trail
Paya Jelutong Trailajor

Bukit
Keruing

Ulu Serait Trail Bukit G ondol T . Tajor Waterfall
rail A popular picnic spot, Tajor Waterfall is
Serait Bukit Gondol 2 miles (4 km) down the Tajor Trail. The
853 ft waterfall is quite small and has a dip pool.
Key
Trail The best time to visit is after a heavy
Park boundary rainfall. It takes about two hours to get to
Peak the waterfall from the Park Headquarters.

Monkey Business in Bako A female macaque carrying
an infant
Relatively accustomed to the
presence of visitors, long-tailed
macaques are easy to spot as they
scavenge for food near the Park
Headquarters. While a close sighting
can initially be thrilling, macaques
can be intimidating and are likely to
snatch bags or possessions left
unguarded for a moment. Even the
garbage disposal system has had
to be specially designed to keep the
macaques out.

For keys to symbols see back flap

170 MALAYSIA REGION BY REGION

Colorful longboats moored on the banks of the Batang Rajang

e Batang Rajang Rajang. The jetties of all the r Sibu

From Kuching. g Bintawa Wharf, towns teem with huge ekspres 120 miles (193 km) NE of Kuching.
daily boat from Kuching to Sibu at boats as well as the smaller, * 260,000. ~ @ Sungei Antu.
8:30am (takes 4 hours). ( daily. motorized longboats. It is g Jalan Khoo Peng Loong. n 32
_ Gawai Padi Festival (May–Jun). possible to travel the entire Jalan Cross, (084) 340-980. ( daily.
distance from Kuching to
Flowing 348 miles (560 km)
through the heart of Sarawak, Belaga by boat. The first leg of The capital of Sarawak’s largest
the vast Batang Rajang is
Sarawak’s longest river and the this journey is up to the town of district, Sibu is also the major
main artery of trade for towns in
the central and southern parts Sibu, the principal transport port of the province and an
of the province. The upper
reaches are the heartland of the hub on the Batang Rajang. The important economic center,
timber industry, and the river is
often muddy with topsoil and jetties are divided between managing trade between the
littered with debris from various
logging operations. upriver and downriver traffic, coast and the hinterland. The

This region is populated which provides easy access town’s early growth was funded
largely by the indigenous
people, and the banks of the to Kanowit and Kapit. by the rubber industry,
river and its tributaries are
scattered with longhouses. The journey from run mostly by Chinese
The lower reaches of the river
are inhabited predominantly Kapit to the town of merchants who were
by the Iban people, while the
upper section mostly contains Belaga, a further six encouraged by Rajah
the dwellings of the Kayan
and Kenyah. Trips up the hours away, passes Charles Brooke to set
river to these longhouses can
be arranged through tour through the treach- up businesses here.
operators in Kuching, Sibu,
and Kapit. Independent travel erous Pelagus Later, they also
is also possible, but it is
essential that visitors wait to Rapids, a 1.5-mile established a thriving
be invited in before entering
a traditional longhouse. (2.5-km) stretch of timber trade.

Boats are a major form of cataracts and whirl- Among the
transportation between the
towns that flank the Batang pools caused by a sights of Sibu is the

sudden drop in the 100-year-old temple

riverbed. Boats may dedicated to Tua Pek

not run at all on this Temple guardian, Tua Pek Kong, the patron saint

stretch when the Kong Temple of merchants. Located

water level in the on the western end

rapids is dangerously low, of the waterfront, the temple

usually between May and has a beautiful seven-story

August. Beyond Belaga, the pagoda with fantastic views.

Rajang divides into Sungai Set in the former municipal

Belaga and Batang Balui. council building, the Sibu Civic

The best time for a trip up the Center Heritage Museum

Batang Rajang is between late traces the town’s history

May and early June to coincide through old photographs and

with the Gawai Padi (see p57) artifacts, including some skulls

festival celebrated by the Dayak from from the era of head-

people in their longhouses. hunting tribes. The museum

For hotels and restaurants see pp281–2 and pp296–8

SARAWAK 171

also has a rich collection of Vegetable vendor at the daily market in the late afternoon, as most
white ceramics that dates back in Kapit longhouse residents work in the
to the 10th and 12th centuries. fields through the day. Guests
for artisans. There is also an are usually shown around and
Environs interesting museum at the often offered a glass of tuak, the
About 40 miles (65 km) upriver town’s civic center, which has potent rice wine. An overnight
of Sibu, Kanowit is a small place displays of Iban and Orang Ulu stay can be arranged.
with few sights of interest. The longhouses as well as photo-
main highlight is Fort Emma, graphs of the early days. P Fort Sylvia
built by Rajah James Brooke in Jalan Kubu. Open 10am–noon,
1859 and named after his sister. Kapit is also a trading center 2–5pm Tue–Sun.
Constructed of bamboo and for the indigenous people that
timber, it was an attempt to inhabit the upriver areas. A lively P Rumah Bundong
prevent Iban raids on Melanau market sets up daily, near the @ irregular service from Jalan Airport,
tribes on the Batang Rajang. center of town, packed with Kapit.
Eventually, it became key to the vendors selling jungle produce,
success of the Rajahs’ rule. The such as vegetables, tropical y Belaga
fort is not open to the public. fruits, and beeswax. A major
draw for most visitors is a 93 miles (150 km) NE of Kapit.
E Sibu Civic Center Heritage chance to visit the remote * 25,300. ~ to Bintulu. g from
Museum longhouses along the upper Kapit. ( daily. Belaga Hotel: 14
Jalan Sentral. Tel (082) 240-620. tributaries of the mighty Belaga Bazaar. Tel (086) 461-244.
Open 9am–5pm Tue–Sun. Batang Rajang.
The last settlement of any
t Kapit Environs significant size on the Batang
Located just 6 miles (10 km) Rajang, Belaga has a wider mix
124 miles (200 km) E of Sibu. from Kapit, Rumah Bundong is of ethnic groups than any other
* 99,840. ~ g from Sibu. an authentic Iban longhouse town in Sarawak. Apart from
n (084) 796-445. that is the home to about 40 Iban, Kayan, Kenyah, and Penan
families. The best time to visit is people, who bring their jungle
Kapit is a small but bustling produce to sell at the Belaga
riverside town, with an attrac- bazaar, the town is also visited
tive waterfront lined with trees by seasonal collectors of wild
and plants. The town’s main honey from Kalimantan. Few
landmark is the historic Fort foreign visitors make it so deep
Sylvia, a whitewashed into Sarawak, but if they do, it is
ironwood structure named after one of the best places to
the wife of Vyner Brooke, the arrange visits to Kenyah and
third of the White Rajahs. It was Kayan longhouses, common to
built in 1880 in an effort to this section of the river. These
control Iban head-hunting longhouses feature salong, or
parties in the region. In 1997 the intricately carved tomb markers,
fort was listed as a historical which can be seen from a
monument, and now houses a distance. Arrangements for a
museum and a training center longhouse visit can be made at
the Belaga Hotel.

The whitewashed exterior of Fort Sylvia on the Kapit waterfront

172 MALAYSIA REGION BY REGION

u Mukah

112 miles (180 km) NE of Kuching.
* 55,000. ~ from Kuching only.
@ _ Pesta Kaul (2nd week of Apr).

Located on the coast north of A boardwalk across a small stream in Similajau National Park
Sibu (see p170), Mukah is a quiet
fishing town that offers a and Bintulu Port, Malaysia’s o Similajau
glimpse into the lifestyle of the second-largest deep-sea port. National Park
Melanau, the indigenous group Among the prominent build-
that predominates in this ings in town is a tower called 19 miles (30 km) NE of Bintulu.
region. A few of their traditional the Council Negeri Monument. Tel (086) 391-284. @ g speedboat
tall-houses can still be seen in Located in the western part of from Bintulu. Open 8am–12:30pm &
the area, although most town near the river, the monu- 1:30–5:15pm daily. & ® 
Melanau prefer simple Malay ment commemorates the first ∑ sarawakforestry.com
dwellings now. The majority of meeting of the Legislative
the town’s sights are clustered Council of Sarawak during Occupying just 27 sq miles
along the south bank of Sungai September 1867. Also worth (70 sq km), Similajau National
Mukah, and include the market visiting are Masjid Assyakirin, a Park was established in 1976 to
and Tua Pek Kong Temple, Moorish-style mosque bearing create a protected habitat for
whose walls are adorned with a distinctive blue dome and set the green turtles that nest on
well-executed murals of in landscaped grounds, and its beaches each year. Similajau
Buddhist and Taoist deities. Kuan Yin Tong Temple, which is one of Sarawak’s least-
features a beautiful rock garden visited parks.
Mukah springs to life in mid- and an artificial waterfall.
April to celebrate the Pesta Kaul A 19-mile (31-km) strip of
(see p57) festival, held annually Across the river, Kampung coastline lined by trees and
to appease the sea spirits and Jepak features Melanau stilt punctuated by rocky headlands
mark the beginning of a new houses and is famous for its offers visitors some of the
fishing season. As part of the belacan, a pungent shrimp country’s best beaches. The
festivities, the Melanau dance to paste used in Malay cooking. park’s main walking trail is well
folk rhythms on the beach and Taman Tumbina, a short dis- marked and follows the coast.
sway back and forth on a tibau, tance north of town, is a Interesting routes branch off
a tall swing used as part of a compact recreational park with from it, including the
fertility rite. a zoo, the ideal place to escape Viewpoint and the Selansur
the bustle of town. Rapids trails. The path ends at
A short distance from town is Golden Beach, which is great
Kampung Tellian, a fishing Monument marking the founding of the for swimming. Walkers can look
village with winding lanes and Sarawak Legislative Council out for gibbons and banded
narrow bridges. Here, the Lamin langurs, as well as flying foxes,
Dana Cultural Boutique is a which are under threat
cultural center and guesthouse elsewhere due to excessive
dedicated to the preservation of hunting. The park supports
Melanau culture, with exhibits over 180 bird species, including
of textiles, betel nut boxes, and the hook-billed bulbul and the
rattan baskets. As well as wrinkled hornbill. Saltwater
accommodation, it also has crocodiles live in some of the
a restaurant. larger rivers and signs warn
against swimming here.
E Lamin Dana Cultural
Boutique Dolphins and porpoises are
Kampung Tellian. n (082) 241-735. occasionally found swimming in
the area. One of the best ways
i Bintulu to enjoy the park is to hire a
boat to explore its waterways
372 miles (600 km) NE of Kuching. * and the coastline. Ask about this
100,000. ~ @ g ∑ bintulu.org at the park HQ.

Originally a fishing and farming
center on Sungai Kemena,
Bintulu experienced a period of
intense development in the late
1970s when Malaysia’s largest
natural gas reserves were found
just offshore. This led to the
construction of an oil terminal

For hotels and restaurants see pp281–2 and pp296–8

SARAWAK 173

Iban Longhouses

Traditionally, all indigenous groups of Sarawak lived in communal longhouses that
reflected the tight-knit nature of tribal culture. One of the largest Dayak groups, the Iban
migrated to Sarawak from Kalimantan’s Kapual River basin (now in Indonesia) between
the 16th and 18th centuries. Most Iban longhouses, called rumah panjang, or rumah
panjai, are located in the Skrang, Lemanak, Batang Ai, and Batang Rajang areas, and
visiting them often involves a longboat trip. Generally erected next to rivers, most
longhouses are stilt dwellings built of timber, with thatched roofs and bamboo or rattan
woven walls tied together with fiber from creepers. Staying in a longhouse is the
highlight of a visit to the province as the Iban make excellent hosts, often welcoming
visitors with tuak, or rice wine, a meal, and providing a longhouse tour.

Traditional thatched roofs are Stilts support the structure, which Private rooms, or bilek, line
now often replaced by the more is accessed by steps made of the ruai, a long, covered
durable corrugated iron. steeply angled tree trunks. communal veranda.

A Traditional Longhouse The area beneath the living quarters has
chickens and pigs, rooting for scraps which
The main internal division of the longhouse is created by fall through the bamboo slats.
a wall through the center of the building. On one side is a
wide communal veranda, while on the other is a row of
bilek, or private rooms, each entered by a single door. The
kitchen area is inside the bilek.

A wide public veranda, or ruai, runs down the middle of An outdoor veranda called tanju fronts
the longhouse, with all bilek facing out onto it. The ruai is the longhouse and runs along the
used for socializing and making handicraft items. length of the building. The veranda’s
split-bamboo floor is exposed to rain
and sun. This area is used mainly for
drying rice, coffee, cocoa beans, pepper,
and even clothes.

174 MALAYSIA REGION BY REGION

p Miri most spectacular attractions.
In 1958, Tom Harrison, curator
516 miles (830 km) NE of Kuching. * of the Sarawak Museum in
300,000. Tel (082) 764-231. ~ @ ( Kuching, discovered skulls
Sat & Sun. _ Miri International Jazz and tools at the mouth of the
Festival (May), Hari Gawai (Jun). Great Cave – evidence that the
∑ miricity.com.my caves had been inhabited by
humans 40,000 years ago.
Originally a quiet fishing village, Vegetables laid out for sale in the Tamu With the enormous Great Cave
Sarawak’s second-largest city Muhibbah market, Miri as its centerpiece, the national
Miri emerged as a major park was established in 1975,
commercial center when the country and have been a covering 12 sq miles (32 sq km)
Malaysia’s first oil well was boost to Miri’s tourism industry. of dense rain forest and
drilled here in 1910. In the limestone outcrops.
1970s, the onshore oilfields U Al Taqwa Mosque
closed down and Miri shifted its Jalan Merpati. Tel (085) 412-291. From the Park Headquarters, a
focus to tourism. Open non-Muslims welcome outside short boat ride across Sungai
prayer times. Niah takes visitors to the board-
Packed with markets and walk that links the caves. The
cafés, the atmospheric old town E Petroleum Museum first is Traders’ Cave, named for
around Jalan China is the liveliest Canada Hill. Open 9am–5pm Tue– the guano and birds’ nest
part of the city. Among the most Sun. ^ collectors who once sold their
interesting markets is Tamu harvest here. Farther along is
Muhibbah, or local market, a Niah Caves the Great Cave, one of the
where upriver indigenous National Park world’s largest caves. It mea-
people come to sell jungle sures a staggering 820 ft (250 m)
produce such as tropical fruits, 71 miles (115 km) S of Miri. n park in width and has a 196-ft- (60-m-)
rattan mats, and Bario rice. headquarters, Pengkalan Batu, Miri; high cave mouth. It is home to
(085) 737-450. @ from Bintulu or several species of swiftlets and
The Al Taqwa Mosque, with from Miri to Batu Niah, then taxi. bats, and during the harvest
its whitewashed arches and a Open 8am–5pm daily. & 8 - = season, nest and bat guano
huge golden dome framed by ®  may be booked in advance at collectors camp inside the cave.
palm trees is also worth a visit. Miri’s Visitor Information Center. From within the Great Cave, the
Perhaps Miri’s most significant ∑ sarawakforestry.com trail continues to the Painted
site, perched atop Canada Hill, is Cave, where there are ancient
Oil Well No. 1, which is known as Considered by many to be the rock paintings made with red
“the Grand Old Lady”. The site of most important archaeological hematite stone. Several small
Malaysia’s first oil excavation, it is site in Southeast Asia, the Niah boat-shaped coffins called
now a National Monument. caves are among Sarawak’s death-ships were also found
Close to it, the Petroleum in the cave, indicating that it
Museum documents the may have been used once as a
growth of this industry. burial chamber. The paintings
and the coffins are protected by
The superb reefs around Miri’s a fence. Visitors need to bring
coast, teeming with electric- their own torches.
blue angel fish and blue-
spotted stingrays, are ranked as
the best and healthiest reefs in

Rock formations in the Painted Cave at Niah Caves National Park
For hotels and restaurants see pp281–2 and pp296–8

SARAWAK 175

d Loagan Bunut f Kelabit
National Park Highlands

75 miles (120 km) SE of Miri. Tel (085) 116 miles (190 km) SE of Miri. ~
775-118. @ from Miri to Lapok, then from Miri to Bario. 8 from Miri.
taxi. Open 8am–5pm daily. & ® ∑ kelabit.net

accommodation must be booked in One of Borneo’s most isolated
advance at the Visitor Information and unspoilt regions, Kelabit
Center in Kuching or Miri. Highlands is a 3,281-ft- (1,000-m-)
∑ sarawakforestry.com high plateau that is home to the

Consisting of Bunut Lake, hospitable Kelabit people. A visit

Sarawak’s biggest freshwater to one of their longhouses is a

lake, and the surrounding dense highlight of a trip to this spec-

peat swamp and dipterocarp tacular region. Among the most

forest, Loagan Bunut National populous of the highland

Park is a bird-watcher’s paradise. settlements is Bario, which

A profusion of bird species nestles in a lush valley. The

Pantu waterfall at Lambir Hills inhabit this park, including village has a small airport and a
National Park
herons, darters, kingfishers, few lodging houses, and these
s Lambir Hills
National Park egrets, magpies, robins, and make it a good base for

20 miles (32 km) S of Miri. hornbills. The lake is exploring the region. Day trips
n park headquarters, (085) 471-609.
@ from Miri. Open 8am–5pm daily. dependent on the from Bario include a visit to
& - ®  may be booked in
advance at the Visitor Information water levels of the the beautiful longhouse at
Center in Kuching or Miri.
∑ sarawakforestry.com Bunut and Tinjar Pa Umor. A longer and

With its range of rugged rivers, and often dries much more challenging
sandstone hills, mixed dip-
terocarp (hardwood) forest, low- up completely for a outing is the 5-day
lying kerangas, or scrubland,
and teeming wildlife, Lambir few weeks in February, trek along the Bario
Hills National Park is a popular
weekend getaway from Miri. May, and June. At this Loop. The trail offers
Among its main attractions are
sparkling waterfalls that cascade time, the local fishermen Kingfisher at delightful views, and
into natural swimming pools.
There are also some excellent practice a unique type of Loagan Bunut trekkers have the option
jungle trails that lead to the falls,
ranging from easy 15-minute fishing called selambau of making overnight
strolls to all-day hikes. The
longest is the 4-hour trek to the to catch fish that are stranded stays at the Ramudu, Pa Dalih,
summit of Bukit Lambir for a
scenic view of the park. Closest in the receding waters. The fish or Long Dano longhouses. For
to the Park Headquarters is the
Latak waterfall, with an enticing are scooped up in huge nets serious mountain climbing
pool and sandy beach, while
deeper into the jungle are the mounted on spoon-shaped head to Gunung Murud,
Pantu and Pancur waterfalls.
wooden frames. Boat cruises located 12 miles (20 km) north
Although the animals here
may be difficult to spot, the on the lake’s tranquil waters, of Bario. At 7,999 ft (2,438 m),
national park is home to flying
squirrels, gibbons, pangolins, especially rewarding in the Murud is Sarawak’s highest peak
clouded leopard, and barking
deer, as well as numerous early morning and dusk, can and is seen as a holy mountain
species of birds. There are
several Iban longhouses, be arranged at the Park by the indigenous people of
including Rumah Nakat,
which has an interesting Headquarters. A few trails, the highlands. Scaling its sheer
traditional handicraft center.
lined with tapang and belian walls should only be attempted

trees, lead through the forest. by fit and experienced climbers.

Limited access makes this a There are two main trails up

seldom-visited park, but new the mountain and having a

roads and visitor facilities are guide is advisable. All the treks

being planned to attract can be arranged through the

tourists to the park. lodges at Bario.

Lush paddy fields near Bario in the Kelabit Highlands

176 MALAYSIA REGION BY REGION

g Mulu National Park BRUNEI

Listed both as a UNESCO World Heritage Site and a Rainforest Area of map
Conservation Area, Mulu National Park is one of Sarawak’s Illustrated
premier tourist destinations. Named for the sandstone peak
of Gunung Mulu, it is a region of great natural beauty. The MALAYSIA
park encompasses over 200 sq miles (500 sq km) of rain forest
and has two mountain ranges and some of the largest caves
in the world. Gorges, valleys, and underground passages in
the park provide the ideal habitat for an abundance of flora
and fauna, including several species of orchids and hornbills.
Trekking up to the limestone pinnacles of Gunung Api,
exploring Clearwater and Deer caves, and traversing the
Canopy Skywalk are among the park’s highlights.

Key
Minor road
Trail
Park boundary
Peak

. Clearwater Cave Lutut linau
Thought to be the longest in Southeast Asia, the 62-mile- L
Me
(100-km-) long Clearwater Cave features spectacular I

natural formations of helictites and photokarsts. A

R

T

LINAU
ME

Kuala Birar

Melinau

Mulu Wind Cave
Airport GUNUNG MULU TRAIL

Nipa

Mulu Rainforest Lang’s
Resort Cave

. Deer Cave and Bat Exodus
The 571-ft- (175-m-) high cave mouth of Deer Cave is
the largest in the world. At sunset, millions of freetail
bats stream out of it in a writhing spiral as they fly off
to look for food.

For hotels and restaurants see pp281–2 and pp296–8

SARAWAK 177

. The Pinnacles VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
One of the park’s most memorable sights, these 147-ft- (45-m-) high
Practical Information
razor-sharp spikes of rock on Gunung Api were formed by erosion, and 93 miles (150 km) E of Miri.
n Lot 452, Jalan Melayu, Miri;
can only be reached by a steep climb. (085) 792-300. & 8 Wind and
Clearwater Caves: 9:30–10:30am;
Deer and Lang’s Caves: 3:30–
4:30pm. - ® available at Park
Headquarters.  Ó Permits for
trekking are available at Park
Headquarters. ∑ mulupark.com

Transport
~ to Mulu. g from Miri.

Kuala S TRAIL Medalam
Terikan
HEADHUNTER’

Tiger Gunung Benarat
Cave 5,167 ft

Melinau Gorge A visitor braving the Canopy Skywalk

Gunung Api Canopy Skywalk
5,723 ft
Mulu National Park’s popular attraction is the 1,575-ft- (480-m-)
Meli long Canopy Skywalk, which is among the longest in the
world. A series of swaying walkways is held aloft by steel
cables about 66 ft (20 m) above the ground, offering visitors
the chance to explore the forest canopy, to get close up to the
several species of birds that inhabit the park, and provides an
aerial view of the swamp below. The 2-hour guided walk must
be booked in advance.

nau Gorge

Sarawak 0 km 3
Chamber 0 miles
3
Melinau Paku
KEY
Gunung Mulu
7,799 ft 1 Park Headquarters, located
to the southwest of the park, is the
Exploring the Park starting point for all explorations
of Gunung Mulu.
Mulu National Park has exceptional facilities with well-
maintained wooden walkways and a good network of 2 Gunung Mulu Trail, a 4-day
paths. Most visitors arrive by plane and have accom- guided trek to the summit of Gunung
modation options such as the five-star Marriott Royal Mulu, is exhilarating. It passes through
Mulu Resort, chalets, and dormitories in the park. The Bat some of the park’s wildest terrain.
Exodus and the view from the Canopy Skywalk are
fascinating. There are regular tours of the main caves. 3 Headhunter’s Trail is named for
local indigenous people who used
this route on raiding expeditions.

4 Gunung Mulu, at a height of
7,799 ft (2,377 m), is the second-
highest peak in Sarawak.

178 MALAYSIA REGION BY REGION

h Brunei A view of the capital city, Bandar
Seri Begawan
Located on the northwest coast of Borneo, East Malaysia
and hemmed in by the borders of Sarawak, the Sultanate of
Brunei Darussalam is among the world’s smallest countries.
It played a pivotal role in Borneo’s history, with its sultans
having once controlled vast tracts of the island’s north and
west. Today, Brunei occupies 2,226 sq miles (5,765 sq km).
Most of the country is a low-lying coastal plain backed by rain
forest and hills. Off the west coast lie vast oil fields, which are
responsible for the country’s affluence. It is divided into four
districts: Brunei Muara which includes Bandar Seri Begawan,
the capital; Tutong, an agricultural region; Belait, the center of
the oil industry; and Temburong, an area of natural beauty.

Tasek Merimbun Pantai Seri Tutong
Brunei’s largest lake, Kenangan
this tranquil expanse
of water is a popular
spot for picnics and
bird-watching.
A wooden walkway
leads to a tiny wooded
island where eagles
and falcons are
commonly spotted.

Sungai Kampung
Liang Abang

Lamunin

Kuala Seria Sungai Liang
Belait Badas Forest Reserve

Belait Belaban

BELAIT

TUTONG

Kuala Labi
Balai

Labi Sukang
This quiet agricultural town relies mainly on the harvest
of fruits such as durian and rambutan. The 31-mile-
(50-km-) long Labi Road is dotted with Iban longhouses.

Belait

Sultan of Brunei Key Penipir

Head of the world’s oldest Sultan Hassanal Bolkiah, the Major road
hereditary monarchy, Sultan reigning Sultan of Brunei Minor road
Hassanal Bolkiah is Brunei’s International border
reigning sultan and prime State border
minister, as well as its defense Peak
and finance minister. Best
known for his legendary personal
fortune and vast car collection,
the sultan has attempted to
share his nation’s oil wealth by
providing free education and
health care for his people.

更多教材请关注For hotels and restaurants FB教学小蜜蜂see pp281–2 and pp296–8 同时也可以微信: TeacherMalaysia

BRUNEI 179

VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Practical Information
120 miles (193 km) NE of Miri.
* 390,000. n Jalan Menteri
Besar, Bandar Seri Begawan; (673)
238-2822. _ National Day (Feb),
Sultan’s Birthday (Jul).
∑ bruneitourism.travel

Transport
k g from Miri, Kuala
Lumpur, Lawas.

. Sultan Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque
Built in 1958 and named for Brunei’s 28th sultan, this mosque is a
classic example of Islamic architecture. With its minarets and 171-ft-
(52-m-) high golden dome reflected in the surrounding lagoon, it
makes an impressive sight.

Berakas Muara . Kampung Ayer
Seresa Built entirely on stilts along the
Bandar Seri Brunei River, Kampung Ayer is a
Begawan cluster of 28 villages housing an

BRUNEI estimated 30,000 people. The
MUARA community is a reflection of the
country’s traditional way of life.
ang Limbang
Sipitang
Bantu
Danau Labu

Limb

Bangar

TEMBURONG . Istana
Nur-ul-Iman
Batang Duri The world’s largest
residential palace, the
Kampung Te Istana Nur-ul-Iman is
Temada the official home of
mburong the Sultan of Brunei.
Tutong It contains nearly
Ulu Temburong 2,000 rooms, a
National Park sumptuous throne
room, and a banquet
Bukit hall for 4,000 diners.

Pagon
6,070 ft

0 km 20
0 miles 20

KEY Ulu Temburong National Park
Covering about 10 percent of Brunei, this national park is the
1 Pantai Seri Kenangan is a country’s foremost nature preserve. Its canopy walkway gives
beautiful strip of beach separating visitors a chance to spot the flying lizards, hornbills, and gibbons
the Tutong River from the South that inhabit the park.
China Sea.
For keys to symbols see back flap
2 Bukit Pagon, at a height of
6,070 ft (1,850 m), is the highest
peak of Brunei and is located in
Ulu Temburong National Park.



MALAYSIA REGION BY REGION 181

SABAH

Malaysia’s second-largest state, with a population of three million,
Sabah sits on the northeastern tip of Borneo. Located just south
of the typhoon belt, this Land below the Wind is geographically
stunning, with magnificent caves, coral reefs, forests, and
mountains. It is also the ideal destination for adventure activities
including mountain climbing, white-water rafting, and diving.

Archaeological excavations reveal countries. However, with ecotourism
evidence of prehistoric human habitation contributing to the state’s finances, and
in eastern Sabah approximately 40,000 abundant agricultural produce, such as
years ago. This remote province, with palm oil, Sabah’s economy is developing.
over 30 indigenous groups, as well as
immigrants from China, Indonesia, and the Sandakan, the administrative capital
Philippines, was nominally ruled by the between 1883 and 1942, and Kota
sultans of Brunei for centuries until the Kinabalu, the present state capital, were
British negotiated the rights to exploit the both almost completely destroyed during
region’s reserves of rubber, tobacco, and World War II, but today they have been
timber in the late 19th century. Although rebuilt and are charming destinations.
the British never had a stable leadership From Kota Kinabalu it is an easy journey
over Sabah, they clung on to power, with north to the Tip of Borneo, south to the
the region continuing to be known as Padas River for white-water rafting, and
North Borneo until it joined the Federation northeast to Gunung Kinabalu for a
of Malaysia in 1963. challenging trek. Sandakan is a good base
from which to visit the dive sites that lie
Today, Sabah’s economy lags behind that off the east coast and the nature reserves
of other states in Malaysia because of an at Sukau and Danum Valley. Sabah also
inequitable distribution of wealth between offers visitors a cultural experience with
the state and federal governments, and an its vibrant tamus (markets) held weekly,
influx of immigrants from neighboring and fascinating longhouses.

Rafflesia, one of Sabah’s most unusual and pungent attractions
Sunrise striking St John’s Peak in Kinabalu National Park

182 MALAYSIA REGION BY REGION

Exploring Sabah Key

The state is characterized by steep mountains, including Major road
Malaysia’s three tallest peaks, and lush valleys teeming with Minor road
magnificent wildlife and marine life. The highlights of a visit Railroad
to Sabah are a trek up Gunung Kinabalu, diving trips from International border
the islands of Sipadan and Lankayan, and white-water State border
rafting on the Padas River. Danum Valley is excellent for Peak
wildlife spotting while the villages of Kota Belud, Gombizau,
Bavanggazo, and Sumangkap offer an opportunity to
interact with indigenous groups in memorable ways.

Sights at a Glance r Kinabalu National Park pp190–91 TIP OF
y Sepilok Orangutan BORNEO
Towns and Village
1 Kota Kinabalu Rehabilitation Center KUDAT
7 Mari Mari Cultural Village u Turtle Island National Park BAVANGGAZO
8 Kota Belud o Kinabatangan Wildlife
9 Gombizau SUMANGKAP
0 Sumangkap Sanctuary
q Bavanggazo a Tabin Wildlife Reserve
w Kudat h Tawau Hills State Park
t Sandakan
d Semporna River GOMBIZAU
g Tawau 6 Padas River
South
Areas of Natural Beauty
4 Klias Wetlands C h i n a Rampayan
e Tip of Borneo
p Gomantong Caves Islands and Beaches Sea
s Danum Valley
5 Pulau Labuan KOTA BELUD
Parks and Preserves
2 Tunku Abdul Rahman i Pulau Lankayan TUNKUCrocker NKAITNIOABNAALLUPAR
f Pulau Sipadan pp200–201 ABDUL RAHMAN Mou
National Park NATIONAL PARK
3 Tambunan Rafflesia Forest Sook
MARI MARI CULTURAL
Reserve K
KOTA KINABALU VILLAGE Ranau

Papar TAMBUNAN RAFFLESIA
Kimanis
FOREST RESERVE Bidon

Illanum ntains Gunung

Mansud Trus Madi
8,570 ft
Klias
Menumbok Membakut Keningau
Beaufort Lanas

PULAU KLIAS PADAS RIVER Pingas
Tenom Sook Nabawan
LABUAN WETLANDS
Gunung Napotong Pendawang
Bandar Seri Sipitang 4,888 ft
Begawan Malaman

Maligan Melutut Rundum Sapulut

Gunung Antulai
5,620 ft

Gunung Muruk Miau Sigattal
6,834 ft

Lush tropical rain forest at Kinabalu
National Park

For hotels and restaurants see p282 and pp298–9

SABAH 183

Aerial view of Pulau Sipadan, one of Malaysia’s top dive sites

Pulau Getting Around
Blambangan
Domestic flights are the best way of getting around Sabah.
Pulau Banggi

Daily flights connect Kota Kinabalu, Sandakan, Lahad Datu,

Pulau Malawali Tawau, and Kudat. The state’s main road connects Kota Kinabalu

Inaruntong to Kudat in the north and Tawau and Sandakan in the east. The

Sulu smaller roads often fall into disrepair, causing delays. The only

Telaga rail line in Sabah is the short stretch connecting Kota Kinabalu

Sea to Tenom. Regular ferries connect Kota Kinabalu to most coastal

Kanibongan Pulau towns, Menumbok to Pulau Labuan, and Sandakan to Turtle
Jambongan
Island National Park. Visitors should be aware that there
Semangat
have been travel advisories issued by the UK and US
Golong
governments advising against travel to some parts of
Terusan PULAU Sabah (see also p324). At present these affect
LANGKAYAN Tawau, Semporna, and east coast islands
Simpangan
Sungai Sungai Sugut including Lankayan and Sipadan. Check your

government’s website for the latest situation.

ngud Klagan TURTLE ISLAND 0 kilometers 50
Beluran NATIONAL PARK 0 miles

SANDAKAN
Tu 50
EY
Telupid SEPILOK ORANGUTAN Abai
SREHABILITATION CENTER

GOMANTONG

S A B A H CAVES KINABATANGAN WILDLIFE
Lamag

Pintasan SANCTUARY

Kinabatangan Kuamut s egama Tomanggong
Tangkulap
oun i n TABIN WILDLIFE
a RESERVE
t Segama
Kadang Sahabat

Gunung Kuli M Lahad Datu

4,551 ft an Tungku
DA
Gunung Lotung a r Bakapit
5,469 ft Pulau Tabawan
n j VALL
B
a M

N U

Luasong Kunak Pulau Timbun Mata

Gunung Kalabakan Kalabakan Sapang SEMPORNA
Tambulanan Merutai
3,605 ft TAWAU
HILLS STATE PARK
Gunung Luis
4,678 ft

Indarasabak

Serudong TAWAU

Mambalua PULAU
SIPADAN
Nunukan

For keys to symbols see back flap

184 MALAYSIA REGION BY REGION

Stilt village and State Mosque in Kota Kinabalu, the fastest-growing city and capital of Sabah

1 Kota Kinabalu building of the Sabah of musical instruments, swords,
Foundation. An observatory spears, blowpipes, ethnic
190 miles (300 km) NE of Miri. k £ on Signal Hill offers a sweeping costumes, and displays on the
g n Sabah Tourism Board, 51 Jalan view of the city and offshore various uses of bamboo. The
Gaya; (088) 212- 121. ( Sun. islands. Kota Kinabalu is the archaeology gallery displays
∑ sabahtourism.com best base from which to explore intricately carved coffins. A “time
Sabah’s northwest coast, tunnel” exhibit documents the
The capital of Sabah, Kota including the magnificent arrival of Filipino and Indonesian
Kinabalu occupies a narrow Gunung Kinabalu (see pp190–93) immigrants, the colonial era, the
stretch of land between the and Tunku Abdul Rahman Japanese occupation, and the
western seafront and a range of National Park. incorporation of Sabah into the
forested hills. Formerly known Federation of Malaysia in 1963.
as Jesselton, it became the E Sabah Museum In front of the museum is a
provincial capital after World Jalan Muzium. Tel (088) 253-199. @ small but interesting collection
War II, and was renamed Kota Open 9am–5pm daily. & 8 7 ^ of vintage cars.
Kinabalu in 1967. Most of its - ∑ museum.sabah.gov.my
historic buildings were The museum grounds also
destroyed by bombing during The Sabah Museum is set amid contain a Heritage Village,
the war and the city had to be spacious grounds, and is which has excellent examples
completely rebuilt. Only three designed in the style of a of houses of Sabah’s main
structures remain of the old Rungus longhouse. The indigenous groups. The Murut
town – the Land and Survey museum has several floors, house features an unusual
building, the General Post with sections on ethnography, bouncing platform that is used
Office, and the Atkinson Clock, a natural history, ceramics, for communal dances. There is
49-ft- (15-m-) tall timepiece history, and archaeology. The also an attractive botanical
built in 1905 and named for the ethnographic exhibits are garden. Talks on a range of
city’s first district officer. Despite among the highlights of the topics can be arranged for
the lack of historical landmarks, museum, and include examples visitors by prior request.
the city has charm, with friendly
people, bustling streets, and a The majestic façade of the Sabah State Mosque
good range of accommodations,
restaurants, and bars. The city
center is small and easy to
explore on foot. The city’s main
attractions include the lively
seafront tamus, or markets, such
as the Filipino Market, as well as
the Sabah Museum, and the
State Mosque. The larger City
Mosque, often referred to as the
Floating Mosque, was built in
2000 beside Likas Bay. Also
overlooking the bay is the
magnificent 31-story glass

For hotels and restaurants see p282 and pp298–9

SABAH 185

U Sabah State Mosque Visitors arriving on Pulau Sapi in the Tunku Abdul Rahman National Park
Jalan Sembutan. @ Open 8–11am &
2–4:30pm Mon–Thu, 8–10:30am & 2 Tunku Abdul nature trail. The three other
2:30–4:30pm Fri, 8–11am & 2–4pm Rahman National islands are clustered together
Sat & Sun. Park a little farther south. Pulau
Located close to the museum, Manukan, where the park
southwest of the city center, this 2 miles (3 km) W of Kota Kinabalu. headquarters is located, is the
mosque is a striking example g n Sabah Parks Office, Block K, most popular of the five islands,
of contemporary Islamic Sinsuran Complex, Kota Kinabalu; especially for day trips. This
architecture. Though set away (088) 523-500. & 8 0 on Pulau crescent-shaped island’s facilities
from the bustle of the city Manukan. ® on Manukan. include a resort and restaurant.
center, its golden dome is visible  camping allowed on all islands Among the many activities on
from many parts of town. The except Manukan and Sulug. offer are snorkeling, glass-
mosque, built in the late 1970s, bottomed boat rides, sea
is one of the largest in Malaysia. A short boat ride away from Kota kayaking, and parasailing. Scuba
It has a capacity of over Kinabalu, Tunku Abdul Rahman gear and underwater scooters
5,000 worshipers, and has a National Park is made up of five can be hired on the island.
separate section for women to beautiful islands that cover an Pulau Manukan has particularly
pray. While non-Muslims are area of 19 sq miles (50 sq km). good beaches on its eastern
permitted to go inside (except Named for the country’s first shore, but the large number of
during prayer times), they should prime minister, the park was visitors and constant movement
dress appropriately, remove established in 1974 to protect of boats sometimes cause the
their shoes before entering, and the fragile coral reefs around reefs to become murky.
avoid visiting on Fridays. Pulau Gaya, Pulau Sapi, Pulau
Manukan, Pulau Mamutik, and The Coral Flyer, the world’s
Bright exterior of the popular Pulau Sulug. Several varieties of longest zipline, connects Pulau
Filipino Market marine life thrive in these reefs, Sapi and Pulau Gaya. It’s an
including parrotfish, clownfish, experience for the brave only –
( Filipino Market batfish, and lionfish. Wildlife on speeds reach up to 37 miles
Jalan Tun Fuad Stephens. @ the islands include long-tailed (60 km) per hour to cross
Open 7am–7pm daily. Central macaques, bearded pigs, between the two islands. Buy
Market Jalan Tun Fuad Stephens. pangolins, and pied hornbills. your ticket at Pulau Sapi Jetty.
Several bustling markets line
the city’s waterfront, the most Pulau Gaya is the biggest of Staff waiting to assist people arriving at
interesting of which is the Filipino the five islands. Covered in dense speed on the Coral Flyer zipline
Market, also known as the forest, it has about 12 miles
Handicrafts Market, named for (20 km) of trails and dazzling
the Filipino immigrants who run white-sand beaches such as
most of the stalls. A huge variety Police Beach on the northeast
of souvenirs, shells, baskets, and coast. Although much of the
bags are available, though these coral around Pulau Gaya has
are not exclusively from the been destroyed by dynamite
Philippines. The market is also a fishing, the other islands have
good place to buy cultured pearls reefs teeming with marine life.
and traditional medicines. Visitors
should beware of pickpockets Just off the southwest tip of
and fake pearls. Farther north is Pulau Gaya, and linked to it by a
the Central Market, where sandbar at low tide, Pulau Sapi
snacks such as grilled chicken is tiny in comparison but has
and the local favorite murtabak, some lovely waters that are
a stuffed spicy pancake, are sold. ideal for swimming and
snorkeling, as well as a short

186 MALAYSIA REGION BY REGION

3 Tambunan
Rafflesia Forest
Reserve

37 miles (60 km) E of Kota Kinabalu.
@ n (088) 899 589. Open 8am–
3pm daily. 8

Located near the top of the Proboscis monkeys, named for their long, drooping noses
5,410 ft- (1,649 m-) high
Sinsuron Pass in the Crocker 4 Klias Wetlands parts of Borneo. Most tour firms
Mountain Range, the Tambunan in Kota Kinabalu offer boat trips
Rafflesia Forest Reserve was 62 miles (100 km) SW of Kota to the wetlands. Independent
set up to protect the unique Kinabalu. @ to Kota Klias jetty. travel is possible, but joining a
rafflesia flower. The botanical g tour boats from Kota Klias jetty. tour group is a better option.
name of the commonest 8 from Kota Kinabalu.
rafflesia, Rafflesia arnoldi, is
derived from Sir Stamford Located on a peninsula about 5 Pulau Labuan
Raffles, founder of Singapore, 75 miles (120 km) south of Kota
and naturalist Dr. Joseph Kinabalu, the Klias Wetlands, a 5 miles (8 km) W of the Klias Peninsula.
Arnold, who discovered it in mangrove forest interspersed * 86,000. ~ g n (087) 423-445.
Sumatra in 1818. A 15-lb (7-kg) with countless channels of the
specimen was immediately sent Sungai Klias, are a major eco- Located off the southwest coast
back to the Royal Society in tourism destination. Wildlife of Sabah, Pulau Labuan is a
London. This parasitic plant is here is rich and diverse: visitors small island with a significant
pollinated by carrion flies and might spot several species of history. In 1846, the Sultan of
emits a smell of rotting flesh to monkey, such as the silver-leaf Brunei ceded the island to the
attract them. Its natural habitat and long-tailed macaque, an British who were particularly
is moist, shaded areas. The amazing variety of birds, and keen to mine the island’s large
flower takes about nine months swarms of fireflies that illuminate coal deposits to provide fuel for
to bloom into the world’s largest the riverside trees in the even- passing steamships. The island
flower, with brick-red petals and ings. As dusk falls, crocodiles remained a British territory for
white dots. The display is short- gather at the water’s edge to almost 100 years, until it was
lived as the petals begin to wilt hunt. The real highlight of the overrun by the Japanese at the
within a few days. wetlands, however, is the chance beginning of their occupation
to see the unique proboscis of Borneo during World War II.
As the blooming season is monkey, a species native to A few years later the Japanese
unpredictable and the rafflesia Borneo. They are timid but can surrendered here at the end
flowers only for a few days in a be seen feeding on tender of the war. In 1963, Pulau
year, visitors are advised to Labuan joined the Federation
check in advance by calling the leaves near the edge of Malaysia. Today, the island
information center. The reserve of the water. The is a pleasant place, with nice
has comprehensive information monkeys are named beaches and popular as a
on the rafflesia and its habitat. for their long, droop- duty-free shopping haven.
ing noses that are
Guides are available at the particularly promi- Labuan Town is the main
information center, but are nent in males, often settlement on the island.
mostly not necessary, since the twice as large as the Just north of Labuan is the
paths are well marked and staff females. The males An-Nur Jamek Mosque, a
can give directions. also have a bulbous distinctive, futuristic structure.
belly. These distinc- The Peace Park at Layang
Rafflesia, the world’s largest flower tive features have Layangan, 2 miles (4 km)
earned the monkey north of town, contains a war
the nickname orang memorial which marks the site
belanda, meaning of the Japanese surrender.
Dutchman, in some An Allied war cemetery on

For hotels and restaurants see p282 and pp298–9

SABAH 187

the east coast has nearly 4,000 6 Padas River White-water rafting down the turbulent
graves of Allied soldiers who Padas River
lost their lives in Borneo. Pangi, near Tenom. @ to Beaufort
from Kota Kinabalu, then by train. 15 miles (23 km) of Grade II and
The island’s waters are 8 from Kota Kinabalu. III rapids. The access point for
particularly popular among rafting trips on the Padas River
divers, especially for wreck The Padas River weaves through is at the town of Pangi, near
diving. Several World War II and the southwest region of Sabah, Tenom, which can be reached
other shipwrecks lie in the linking the small, quiet towns of by train from Beaufort. From
waters off Labuan’s coast. Dive Tenom and Beaufort. Known to Pangi, challenging rapids, with
operators organize visits to be a turbulent river, it has names such as Merry-Go-
these interesting sites. The flooded Beaufort several times. Round, Washing Machine, and
Labuan Marine Park is centered As a result, shophouses in the Headhunter, tumble down-
around Pulau Kuraman, a small town are now built on stilts. stream. The river has several
island near the south coast, Early photographs show gentle stretches as well, where
accessible by boats from the Beaufort resembling the canal it is possible to hop out of the
Labuan jetty. A number of city of Venice. The Padas River is raft and float downstream with
activities such as diving, sailing, popular as a destination for the current.
fishing, and organized short great white-water rafting (see
jungle walks are offered at the p315). The boulder-strewn river Rafting trips can be orga-
park. It also has some beautiful cuts through lowland rainforest, nized by tour companies in
beaches, perfect for picnics and between April and July, the Kota Kinabalu who brief visitors
and sunbathing. water level of the river creates well on safety procedures. As
well as rafting trips, there is
Headstones of World War II soldiers at the Allied war cemetery in Labuan also the opportunity to take
a tour of the southwest
region of the state and ride
on Borneo’s only railway line
from Beaufort to Tenom,
tracing the Padas River and
meandering through jungles.

The North Borneo Railway

When the British-run North Borneo Chartered Company began operating in the late 19th century, its

managing director, William Cowie, developed a plan for a trans-Borneo railway stretching from Brunei Bay

beside Pulau Labuan to Sandakan in the east of the province, cutting through steep ranges and uncharted

jungles. Construction began in 1896 and by 1905 a line had been built from Weston, on Brunei Bay, to

Beaufort in the southwest, and from there to both Jesselton, now known as Kota Kinabalu, and to Tenom,

east of Beaufort. From Tenom it was extended a

further 10 miles (16 km) to Melalap, where work

came to a halt and was never continued. Cost of

construction was high, and the rice tax levied on

locals to pay for it resulted in rebellions against the

British. The Chartered Company then ensured that

the train paid for itself by refusing to build roads

connecting Tenom, Beaufort, and Jesselton. Half-day

trips are available on the old steam train, but they

are quite expensive, although breakfast and lunch,

served in tiffin boxes, are included in the ticket

price. The train leaves Tanjung Aru at 10am every

Wednesday and Saturday. A less expensive option

is to take the standard train. Tourists enjoying the view while on a train trip

188 MALAYSIA REGION BY REGION

Rope and timber bridge at the Mari Mari one. Local people from diverse Kampung Gombizau is one of
Cultural Village ethnic groups such as Chinese, several smaller villages in the
Indians, and Malay, come area that are taking part in the
7 Mari Mari together to sell their goods local government’s scheme of
Cultural Village while visitors soak up the One Village, One Product. The
atmosphere and enjoy a program encourages the
Inanam, 9 miles (15 km) east of hearty breakfast at one of the communities to produce and
Kota Kinabalu. Tel (013) 881-4921. many stalls. Just about anything market unique handmade
8 arranged in Kota Kinabalu one can imagine is on sale, from products and handicrafts made
or booked online. livestock, fruit, vegetables, and from locally available material.
∑ marimariculturalvillage.com meat to hand-crafted knives, The villagers, most of whom are
musical instruments, bark part of the Rungus minority,
A folk museum preserving waistcoats, and local textiles. dedicate their time to the
Borneo ethnic culture, Mari Tempting snacks, delicious industry of beekeeping and the
Mari Cultural Village features local cakes, and drinks are sale of raw honey and beeswax.
the dwellings and cultural also on offer. Vendors are very Royal jelly, a bee secretion
traditions of five Sabah tribes. friendly, and expect potential which is a good dietary
On the tour you can see and buyers to haggle for their supplement and an ingredient
experience the culture and goods. The weekly tamu is in several beauty products, is
lifestyle of the rice-farming busy from around 6am until also cultivated and sold here.
Kadazan-Dusun, the longhouse- early afternoon. Visitors are shown around
building Rungus, the hunter- the carefully tended beehives
fisherfolk the Lundayeh, the Tamu Besar, or the big and can see how the bees
cowboy and sea gypsy Bajau, market, is an annual festive are smoked out for the
and the headhunting tribe, the event at Kota Belud which is honeycombs to be removed.
Murut. The half-day tours celebrated amid cultural
include transport from hotels in festivities and handicraft 0 Sumangkap
and around Kota Kinabalu. demonstrations. The highlight
of the market are the stalls of 57 miles (92 km) N of Kota Kinabalu.
8 Kota Belud horses for sale. * 431. @ n (019) 535-9943. Open
8am–6pm daily. & 8 arranged in
47 miles (75 km) N of Kota Kinabalu. Traditionally dressed Bajau Kota Kinabalu. =
* 73,000. @ ( Sun. _ Tamu horsemen, commonly called
Besar (Oct/Nov). Cowboys of the East, pose for the A short drive from Gombizau is
crowds. The Bajau with their the village of Sumangkap,
resplendently dressed horses also which resounds with the
display their unrivaled horse- beating of metal being made
riding skills at the Tamu Besar. into gongs and can thus boast
Sabah’s highest decibel count.
9 Gombizau One of the most important
elements of Sabahan music, the
56 miles (90 km) N of Kota Kinabalu. gongs feature in all traditional
* 140. @ n (013) 549-1885 (cell). celebrations. These gongs are
Open 8:30am–5:30pm daily. & 8 skilfully crafted by local artisans.
arranged in Kota Kinabalu. = Set horizontally in frames or
suspended vertically, gongs
Located up the coast from Kota come in all sizes, from massive
Belud on the Kudat Peninsula in
the north of the province,

Located on fertile alluvial plains, Striking a massive gong in Kampung Sumangkap
Kota Belud is a quiet town
inhabited mainly by Bajau
people, famed for their skill
with horses. Gunung Kinabalu
dominates the landscape to
the east.

The town itself is small and
unassuming, except on Sunday
mornings when it springs to life
during the weekly tamu, or
market. Held at Jalan Hasbollah,
a short distance from the town
center, the tamu is the hub of
local trade and is as much a
social event as a commercial

For hotels and restaurants see p282 and pp298–9

SABAH 189

ones that are 6 ft (2 m) in
diameter and meant for use in
temples, to tiny ones sold as
souvenirs. Visitors can watch the
gong-makers at work, as they
beat out the raised center of an
aluminum sheet to give the
instrument its particular
resonance and timbre.

q Bavanggazo

61 miles (98 km) N of Kota Kinabalu. Symbolic globe at the Tip of Borneo marking the island’s northernmost point
* 250. @ n (088) 614-088.
&8= w Kudat shophouses and a bright
Chinese temple. About 4 miles
The Rungus people, who 118 miles (190 km) N of Kota Kinabalu. (7 km) north of town, the
live in the region around Kudat, * 75,000. ~ @ Ekspress minibus beach at Bak Bak is a popular
have managed to maintain service from Kota Kinabalu. ( Sun. picnic spot.
more of their traditions and _ Pesta Kelapa.
culture than many other
indigenous groups. A visit to a A small port sitting at the e Tip of Borneo
longhouse in the village of northern tip of Sabah, Kudat is
Bavanggazo, just off the road inhabitated by a large number 124 miles (200 km) N of Kota Kinabalu.
from Kota Belud to Kudat, is an of Chinese and Filipino traders. @ Ekspress minibus service from
excellent opportunity to Sheltered by the Marudu Bay, Kota Kinabalu. 8 -
appreciate Rungus heritage. the Kudat Peninsula was
deemed suitable enough to be The northernmost tip of
The longhouses are aligned in selected as the administrative Borneo, known locally as
an auspicious east–west capital of British North Borneo Tanjung Simpang Mangayau,
direction, with outward-sloping in 1882. However, the town’s era which means battle junction,
walls to allow for maximum of importance was short-lived, makes an excellent day trip
ventilation. One such longhouse as frequent pirate attacks and a from Kota Kinabalu. Located
is Matunggung, which features lack of fresh water forced the in the Kudat district, the tip
traditional bamboo-slatted sides provincial capital to be shifted can be reached after stopping
and a thatched roof, and in 1883 to Sandakan (see p196). off at the Gombizau bee
contains the living quarters of farm, at the gong village of
approximately 100 families. There are not many sights in Sumangkap, and along the
town, although a stroll around way at the Rungus longhouse
The Rungus are famed for the harbor, watching fishing at Bavanggazo.
their beadwork, and visitors to boats come and go, can be
the longhouse can usually see refreshing. A walk along the A few miles before Kudat, a
women sitting on the Sidek Esplanade around the branch of the road forks to the
communal veranda crafting bay is also rejuvenating. Kudat’s left, passing under towering
shoulder bands, necklaces, and main street, Jalan Lo Thien coconut palms and leading
bracelets from multicolored Chock, has some attractive directly to a lovely windswept
beads, using motifs from promontory that looks out over
Rungus folklore. The older Rock pools at Bak Bak Beach, north the South China Sea to the west
Rungus women wear brass of Kudat and the Sulu Sea to the east.
coils as jewelry. They are also
skilled textile weavers, and use Just before the headland, the
locally grown, hand-spun road passes behind a sandy
cotton on simple looms for crescent shaded by casuarinas
their clothes. to Kalampunian Beach, where
the Irranun people sell colorful
Organized tours, which can shells. At the Tip of Borneo
be booked in Kota Kinabalu, itself, a flagpole stands beside
include a visit to the villlages of a giant globe of the world.
Gombizau and Sumangkap as An inscription on the globe
well as lunch at Bavanggazo. recounts that Ferdinand
These tasty meals are made Magellan spent 42 days here
with fresh vegetables from the repairing his ship during his
adjoining fields. Visitors have the circumnavigation of the world
option of staying overnight to between 1519 and 1522.
attend a cultural performance
of traditionally dressed dancers
and gong players.

190 MALAYSIA REGION BY REGION

r Kinabalu National Park • Area of map Lohan
Illustrated
A UNESCO World Heritage site, the 754-sq km (291-sq mile) Kiau •
national park protects the environment around Gunung Kundasang
Kinabalu. Popular for its trails and wildlife, the park is home
to 4,500 species of plants, including 1,500 varieties of orchids •
and nine types of pitcher plants. Also found here are large
mammals such as orangutans, gibbons, and clouded leopards,
unusual birds such as the Kinabalu friendly warbler and the
Bornean mountain whistler, and a dazzling variety of butterflies
and insects. At its southeast corner lies Poring Hot Springs, the
ideal place to relax after the rigors of the park’s trails.

Low’s Peak
13,455 ft

. Gunung Kinabalu Laban Rata Rest House
At a towering 13,455 ft (4,101 m), Layang Layang
the mountain offers unrivaled views
from its summit. A reasonable degree Power Station
of fitness is essential for attempting
the climb (see pp192–3).

Kiau

Timpohon Park
Headquarters
Gate
Kundasang
Kinabalu Botanical Garden

The botanical garden behind
the Park Headquarters

features many varieties of Bundu
plants from the mountain’s Tuhan

middle ranges. All species

are labeled, making a stroll KEY
around the grounds both
informative and enjoyable.

. Silau Silau Trail 1 The Bukit Tupai Trail, an easy
This 50-minute walk 30-minute walk, leads up to a
along the length of ridgetop with excellent views of
Kinabalu’s summit.
the Silau Silau
stream, from its 2 The alternative route to the
summit of Gunung Kinabalu
source to its begins 11 miles (17 km) east of Park
confluence with Headquarters at Mesilau.
Sungai Liwagu,
3 The canopy walkway is only
is excellent for 490 ft (150 m) long, but it gives a
bird-watching. splendid bird’s-eye view of the
surrounding forest.

For hotels and restaurants see p282 and pp298–9

KINABALU NATIONAL PARK 191

. Poring Hot Springs VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Fed by mineral waters,
these springs have been Practical Information
developed into public 37 miles(60 km)NE of Kota Kinabalu.
and private baths. The site n Kota Kinabalu Resorts, 15 First
also features a short but Floor, Wisma Sabah (088) 243–629.
exciting canopy walkway, &0®∑ sabahparks.gov.my
an orchid farm, and a Kinabalu Botanical Garden:
butterfly farm. Open daily. 8 9am, noon, 3pm.

Transport
@

Exploring the Park Key

From the two main gates, at Mesilau and Timpohon, trails around Major road
the park along its ridgetops and streams pass through delightful Minor road
terrain where quiet and observant walkers may see some of Summit Trail
the region’s mammals, such as bearded pigs and Mesilau Trail
mouse deer. To make the climb up Gunung Liwagu Trail
Kinabalu you need to book well in advance Bukit Tupai Trail
(passes are limited) and you must also be Mempening Trail
accompanied by a guide (see pp192–3). Silau Silau Trail
Via Ferrata Trail
Park boundary
Peak

Poring Hot Springs

Mesilau
Gate

Lohan

0 km 3
0 miles 3

Flora and Fauna

One of the richest areas in species diversity, the
park’s attractions include such mammals as tarsiers,
squirrels, and tree shrews, birds such as hornbills,
partridges, and mountain blackbirds, as well as a
long list of colorful butterflies and beetles. The park
is also home to several varieties of rare and exotic
flora, including the extraordinary rafflesia (see p186).

Pitcher plants, which are one of Tarsiers are easily
the prime attractions of Kinabalu recognized by their long
National Park, are carnivorous feet and large eyes. They
plants that attract and trap insects
with their bright pigments and are nocturnal primates
sweet nectar. that feed on insects,
birds, and snakes.

Slipper orchids are named for
their bright slipper-shaped pouches
that attract pollinating insects. These
delicate plants are fast becoming
an uncommon sight.

For keys to symbols see back flap

192 MALAYSIA REGION BY REGION

Climbing Gunung Kinabalu The mighty Gunung Kinabalu rising above
the clouds
The climb to the summit of Gunung Kinabalu begins at the
Timpohon Gate, just above Park Headquarters. There is an
alternative route, longer but less steep, which starts at
Mesilau Nature Resort, 11 miles (17 km) to the east. The two
trails meet at Layang Layang and continue to the Laban Rata
Rest House, where most climbers break for the night. Some,
however, travel another hour to the more basic rest house at
Sayat Sayat, which has the benefit of a shorter clamber to the
summit the next morning. The last, and toughest, part of the
hike begins well before dawn to allow climbers to view the
sunrise from Low’s Peak. The descent takes five hours, so it is
best to start back by noon to reach the base before dark.

Low’s Peak
13,455 ft

St. John’s Peak
13,438 ft

South Peak
12,900 ft

The Summit Trail Villosa
From Timpohon Gate Shelter
to the summit at Low’s
Peak, this trail takes Mempening
at least two days to Shelter
traverse. Handrails
along the trickier
stretches assist
climbers.

Rhododendron Forests Kamborangoh
Found between 5,900 ft (1,800 m) Telekoms Station
and 8,530 ft (2,600 m), these
forests comprise 26 varieties of Ubah Shelter
rhododendron, including the
beautiful copper-leaved Power Station
rhododendron.

Kandis Shelter

KEY Timpohon
Gate
1 Tropical Montane Rainforests,
typically composed of oak, birch, and Park
pine, as well as fern and moss, are Headquarters
found between 2,953 ft (900 m) and The jumping-off
5,900 ft (1,800 m), including the area point for walks
around Park Headquarters. along trails, Park
Headquarters has
2 Layang Layang, at 8,599 ft accommodations,
(2,621 m), has a staff base and is restaurants, and a
the first rest stop for most climbers.
shop selling
3 South Peak, as its name provisions for
suggests, is the southernmost of
Kinabalu’s peaks. A near-perfect climbers.
pinnacle, it provides lofty views of
the surrounding area.

For keys to symbols see back flap

KINABALU NATIONAL PARK 193

Low’s Peak

The highest peak of

Gunung Kinabalu, Low’s

Peak is named for Sir

Hugh Low, a naturalist

and British Colonial

Secretary on Pulau

Labuan. Ironically, he

never stood on its

summit despite three

attempts during the

Summit Peaks of Kinabalu 1850s. On his second
St. John’s Peak, Donkey’s Ears, and the Ugly
Sisters are just a few of the peaks that soar attempt, in 1858, he was Sir Hugh Low
near the summit of Gunung Kinabalu. accompanied by Spenser

Ugly Sisters St. John, the British Consul in Brunei, who made it to
13,228 ft
Donkey’s Ears the top of South Peak only to see other peaks around
13,300 ft
it that stood still higher. It was not until 1888 that John
Sayat Sayat
Rest House Whitehead, a zoologist, conquered the highest peak

Laban Rata while collecting new species of birds and mammals,
Rest House
some of which are also named for Sir Hugh Low.
Lemaing Hut
Pendant Hut Gunting Lagadan Hut
Paka Cave Situated just above Laban
Shelter/Helipad Rata, this simple rest
house can sleep up to
Tkalod 60 people in dormitories.
Shelter It also has sweeping views
of the mountain’s upper
Chempaka Mesilau Gate reaches, with Donkey’s
Shelter Mesilau Ears as a backdrop.

Nepenthes Climbing the Summit Trail
Shelter
You must book at least 6 months in advance. The park
allows only 192 climbers plus their guides to climb per
day, due to conservation issues and limited overnight
accommodations, which are always fully booked. The
climb is more fun when traveling light, but a few items
are essential, including a hat, sun block, sunglasses,
and a flashlight. Warm, waterproof clothing is a must.
Sleeping bags are provided free of charge at Laban
Rata and Sayat Sayat rest houses, and the shop at
Park Headquarters sells basic food.

0 km 1
0 miles
1

Key Mesilau Trail
Summit Trail Located 11 miles (17 km) east of Park Headquarters, Mesilau provides a
Mesilau Trail quieter base for the climb. The trail from here is longer, quieter, and
Via Ferrata Trail offers a particularly good display of several species of pitcher plants.
Peak
Dive boats off the island of Pulau Sipadan in Sabah





196 MALAYSIA REGION BY REGION

t Sandakan slice of colonial memorabilia, Orangutans at the Sepilok Orangutan
the English Tea House is a Rehabilitation Center
250 miles (400 km) E of Kota Kinabalu. refreshing stop for tired visitors.
* 12,500. ~ @ n (089) 229-751. habitat. At the entrance is the
For many, the most moving sight Nature Education Center which
Lying on the northern edge of in town is the Sandakan Memorial provides an insightful
Sandakan Bay, Sandakan is Park, about 7 miles (12 km) east introduction to all that goes on
sandwiched between a steep of the town center. In 1944, over behind the scenes, and also
escarpment and the Sulu Sea. 2,000 Allied British and Australian periodically screens a short,
During the late 18th century, prisoners of the Japanese POW somewhat dated video on
exports of timber, pearls, birds’ camp were marched to Ranau orangutans. A short walk from
nests, and hornbill ivory made near Gunung Kinabalu. Only six here are two feeding stations
Sandakan a wealthy town. It Australians survived. The small where the animals are fed at
became the administrative museum in the park, built by 10am and 3pm.
capital of North Borneo the Australian government, is a
between 1884 and 1942, but grim reminder of the tragedy. Next door to the center is the
was bombed out of existence Sun Bear Conservation Center,
by the end of World War II, like P Agnes Keith’s House dedicated to help protect the
Kota Kinabalu. Much of the Jalan Istana. Open 9am–5pm daily. & world’s smallest bear. There are
modern town is built on usually some 30–40 rescue bears
reclaimed land, but its indis- P Sandakan Memorial Park that can be visited.
criminate architecture of con- 7 miles (12 km) E of Sandakan.
crete grids lacks the sense of Tel (089) 275-400. Open daily. 8 u Turtle Island
space of Kota Kinabalu. These National Park
days, trade is focused on palm y Sepilok
oil and cocoa crops. Orangutan 25 miles (40 km) N of Sandakan.
Rehabilitation g from Sandakan. n Crystal
There is little to interest Center Quest, Sabah Park Jetty, Jalan Buli Sim-
visitors in the center of town, Sim, Sandakan, (089) 212-711. & 8
though the waterfront is lively 14 miles (23 km) E of Sandakan. 0 ® on Pulau Selingan. 
with the constant movement of Tel (089) 531-180. @ Open 9am– ∑ sabahparks.org.my
barges and ferries, and a daily noon (11am Fri) & 2–4pm daily.
fish market which is the biggest & - ®  Sun Bear Conservation The three small islands of
in Sabah. On the escarpment Center: Open 9am–3:30pm daily. & Selingan, Bakungan Kecil, and
behind the town center is an Gulisan constitute this turtle
Observation Pavilion that offers One of only four orangutan sanctuary, commonly known as
a spectacular view across the sanctuaries in the world, Sepilok the Pulau Penyu National Park,
town and the harbor front. was established in 1964 and is where green and hawksbill
today one of Sabah’s most turtles come ashore to nest.
Overlooking the pavilion is a popular attractions. Occupying
well-preserved colonial building 17 sq miles (43 sq km) of lowland The most rewarding time to
known as Agnes Keith’s House. rain forest, the center was set up visit the National Park is
An American author who lived to care for orphaned and injured between July and October
here in the 1930s, Agnes Keith animals, and teach them the when visitors are most likely to
wrote several books on Sabah skills needed to survive inde- see the turtles lay their eggs in
and its culture. The house has pendently. The center aims to the sand. As this often takes
ornate furnishings and wooden eventually reintroduce the place in the evenings, one of
flooring, and the author’s orangutans into their natural the islands offers tourist
study still exudes an aura of accommodations. Vigilant
tranquility. Next door, another rangers transfer the hatchlings

The impressive Agnes Keith’s House, home of the American writer

For hotels and restaurants see p282 and pp298–9

SABAH 197

to nurseries, from where they forests, provide the largest p Gomantong
are regularly released into the corridor for wildlife in the Caves
sea. Sadly, the chance of survival country. A unique feature of
for each hatchling is only about the river are the oxbow 68 miles (110 km) S of Sandakan.
one in 100 eggs, as they often lakes set back from the main @ from Sandakan. n (089) 230-189.
fall prey to poachers as well as course, creating abundant Open 8am–noon & 2–4:30pm daily.
natural predators. habitats for the diverse flora &8-®
and fauna. Much of this area
Permissions to visit the islands has been designated as the The limestone caves of
must be obtained from Crystal Kinabatangan Wildlife Gomantong are the largest
Quest, who act as agents for Sanctuary. It is easily visited on caves in Sabah and home to a
Sabah Parks; local tour operators a day trip from Sandakan. remarkable population of
may be able to arrange this for swiftlets and bats. Licensed
you, or there is an office at the A river boat trip provides locals clamber up bamboo
Sabah Parks Jetty, the departure excellent opportunities for poles to harvest swiftlet nests,
point from Sandakan. wildlife spotting. Sungai which are the prime ingredient
Menungal, a small tributary for bird’s-nest soup, a delicacy in
i Pulau Lankayan that joins the Kinabatangan Chinese cuisine.
just above Sukau, is a
50 miles (80 km) N of Sandakan. particularly successful spot for The two main caves are
g from Sandakan. n Pulau Sipadan sightings. Proboscis monkeys, Simud Hitam, or black cave,
Resorts, 484 Bandar Sabindo, Tawau; a species common in Borneo, and Simud Putih, or white
(089) 765-200. 8 0 ®  and macaques that feed high cave, both of which are difficult
∑ lankayan-island.com up in the trees, are among the to get to. However, visitors can
highlights. Visitors are almost venture into Simud Hitam
Just a 90-minute boat ride from certain to see a wide range of aided by a boardwalk to avoid
Sandakan, Lankayan is a reptiles such as crocodiles, and wading through ankle-deep
teardrop-shaped island, birds such as the hornbill, bat guano which collects on
surrounded by dazzling white oriental darter, and the blue- the cave floor. Most tours of the
beaches and stunning coral eared kingfisher. caves include a trip down
reefs. It is visited mostly by Sungai Kinabatangan.
divers for its colorful world of
marine life, and, with only one
resort, the place is rarely
crowded. Some of the species
that divers might spot around
the Lankayan shipwreck, one of
the many dive sites near the
island, are glassfish, painted
frogfish, and marble stingrays.
Gazing into the waters from the
jetty, visitors can often see
black-tip sharks, especially in the
months of April and May.
Lankayan is a part of the Sugud
Islands Marine Conservation
Area, and its lush tropical vege-
tation is also worth a mention.
The island is covered with
screwpine (Pandanus
amaryllifolins), which has a
bloom resembling a pineapple.

o Kinabatangan The entrance into Simud Hitam at Gomantong Caves
Wildlife Sanctuary

84 miles (135 km) S of Sandakan.
@ from Sandakan. g along
Sungai Kinabatangan. & 8 ® in
Sukau. 

Sungai Kinabatangan is
Sabah’s longest river at 348
miles (560 km) and its lower
reaches, bordered by dense

198 MALAYSIA REGION BY REGION

a Tabin Wildlife Wild bearded pigs rooting for food in Bornean gibbons can be
Reserve the Danum Valley spotted often rustling about in
treetops by the lodge. A steep
137 miles (220 km) SE of Sandakan. one of the most complex 2-mile (3-km) climb leads to an
@ from Lahad Datu. n (088) 267- ecosystems, which is why it ancient Kadazan Dusun burial
266. Open 8am–6pm daily. & 8 features high on most nature- site, high up in a cliff-top cave.
organized by Tabin Wildlife Resort, lovers’ itineraries on their visit The site contains old coffins and
Tel (088) 261-558. ® to Sabah. offers a spectacular view over
∑ tabinwildlife.com.my the Segama River Valley.
The surrounding logging
Established as a protected area concession, run by the Sabah d Semporna
in 1984, the 473-sq mile (1,225- Foundation, which has now
sq km) Tabin Wildlife Reserve is been mostly reforested, acts as a 209 miles (336 km) SE of Sandakan.
one of the last remaining buffer zone for the fantastic * 150,000. @ _ Regatta (Mar/Apr).
habitats of the critically range of wildlife. Visitors are
endangered Sumatran likely to spot elephants, barking With most of its houses
rhinoceros. Comprised mostly deer, and slow loris on several perched on wooden piles over
of secondary growth rain forest, guided walks along nature trails. the water, Semporna is a town
this is a conservation zone for Among the birds that are visible juxtaposed between land and
several other wildlife species as in this region are the great argus sea. This picturesque fishing
well, including endangered pheasant, the rhinoceros town hovers over an ancient
Borneo pygmy elephants, giant hornbill, and the crimson coral reef that supports a
flying squirrels, orangutans, and sunbird. Most visitors stay at the diverse variety of fish, soft
several bird species including Borneo Rainforest Lodge by corals, sponges, anemones,
hornbills. Activities organized by Sungai Danum, where a echinoderms, and mollusks.
the reserve in collaboration with network of trails offers multiple
Tabin Wildlife Resort are exciting options for exploring the area. The inhabitants are mainly
ways to spot wildlife and The ideal time to observe the Bajau, a seafaring people
include jungle walks, night wildlife is early morning and who fish in the Celebes Sea to
safaris, and bird-watching trips. evening, when even the most earn their living using deli-
cautious of animals, such as cately carved, traditional boats
The reserve offers visitors bearded pigs, emerge to root called lipa lipa, which they
challenging walking trails, one for food, while orangutans and adorn with bright sails and
of which leads to a waterfall colorful festoons.
that plunges into a river which
is good for a swim. Another Sempora is frequented by
trail leads to a cluster of low, visitors who use it as a base for
mud volcanoes. diving and snorkeling trips to
the offshore islands of Mabul
s Danum Valley and Sipadan (see pp200–201). Of
the many island destinations
50 miles (80 km) W of Lahad Datu. that skirt the town of Semporna,
 from Lahad Datu. n (088) 881- the volcanic island of Pulau
092. 8 mandatory. ® Bohey Dulang, also the site of a
Japanese pearl culture station, is
Covering an area of 168 sq miles popular. The cliff-fringed Bohey
(438 sq km), Danum Valley is a Dulang is frequented by
conservation area that consists adventure lovers who trek up its
of primary lowland rain forest, highest peak for stunning views

Traditional stilt buildings in the harbor in Semporna
For hotels and restaurants see p282 and pp298–9

SABAH 199

dubbed “Sabah’s lost world” due
to its inaccessibility and diversity
of plant and animal life. This is a
trip for enthusiasts as facilities
offered to visitors are very basic.

h Tawau Hills State
Park

15 miles (24 km) N of Tawau.

 from Tawau. n (089) 925-719.
Open 7am–6pm daily. & ® 

Ferry passengers disembarking at Tawau A lush stretch of low hills
and thick mossy rain forest,
of the surrounding islands. The Quoin Hill admits visitors to see Tawau Hills State Park was
established here in 1979 to
area around Semporna has the stages of processing cacao protect the watershed of the
Tawau, Merotai, Kinabutan,
intrigued archaeologists since beans to chocolate. Palm oil is Mantri, and Balung rivers.

the discovery of stone tools at cultivated even more extensively Occupying an area of about
104 sq miles (270 sq km), the
nearby Tingkayu, which pre- in Tawau, and plantations of its park is a favorite among
birders. The blue-banded
date similar implements found fan-like fronds are scattered kingfisher, wattled pheasant,
blue-headed pitta, and the
in the region by 10,000 years. around the state of Sabah. Bornean wren-babbler can be
spotted here. Sightings of
Tawau faces Kalimantan monkeys are also common.

across the strait and has a high The highest hill is the 4,268-ft-
(1,300-m-) high Gunung
f Pulau Sipadan percentage of Indonesian and Magdalena. A lower peak,
Filipino residents. While there Bombalai Hill, just 1,739 ft (530 m)
See pp200–201. high, is an extinct volcano that
are some squalid areas, the can be reached following a half-
hour trail from the Park
town center is a tidy blend Headquarters. A 3-hour trek
leads to some hot springs and
g Tawau of traditional wooden Table Waterfall, where the
shophouses and modern crystal-clear river makes for a
good swimming spot.
223 miles (360 km) S of concrete blocks. The
Sandakan. * 178,000. ~ @ cheerful street markets This park is much less busy
( Tawau Central Market, offer a wide mix of goods than its more famous neighbors
daily. _ Tawau Cultural such as herbs, vegetables, and is a good alternative for
those looking for solitude.
Carnival (Mar). clothes, and toys sold by

∑ sabahtourism.com Cacao pod mobile traders. Tawau’s

fish market is always busy,

Tawau sits on the coast in the and exotic seafood is available

extreme southeast of Sabah. It at the open-air stalls seen all

is a transport hub and a transit over town.

point for visitors heading Tawau is the jumping-off

toward Semporna and the point for trips to the Maliau

offshore islands of Sipadan Basin to the west, which is

(see pp200–201).

This bustling port began life

as a modest Bajau settlement,

but in 1878 the British North

Borneo Company, attracted by

the fine natural harbor and rich

volcanic soil found in the

region, settled in Tawau. They

shipped in elephants from

Burma to assist with logging in

the forest.

Timber has always been

the prime produce of this

town, although the rich soil

also sustains plantations of

rubber, coconut, cocoa, and

palm oil. In fact, Tawau is the

cocoa capital of Borneo, and

the cocoa estate at nearby Table Waterfall, Tawau Hills State Park