DK Eyewitness Travel Malaysia _ Singapore 2016

300 TRAVELERS’ NEEDS

hams and chorizos. The wine list stone’s throw from the Masjid
is just as vast, encompassing Sultan. Order rice or noodles
sangria, sherries, and a profusion cooked to order, or choose from
of cocktails. No reservations. an excellent spread of curries and
stir-fries, and wash it down with
Shiraz $$$ teh tarik (frothy, sweet milky tea).

Middle Eastern Map 4 C2

3A River Valley Road, 01–06 Clarke Newton Food Center $

Quay Asian Map 2 B2

Tel 6334-2282 500 Clemenceau Avenue North

A contemporary Persian This is popular with tourists for its

restaurant, Shiraz serves large numerous open-air stalls and

flavorsome kebabs, including closeness to Orchard Road,

some based on seafood rather although prices are a little above

than the usual chicken or lamb, average as a result. The food is

on fragrant saffron rice. There is generally excellent and wide-

belly-dancing on some nights. ranging: satay, oyster omelette,

and sup kambing (Malay mutton

Supertree by Indochine $$$ stew), plus seafood are sold by

Indonesian Map 5 F4 weight. More stalls open in the

#03-01, Gardens By The Bay, evening than for lunch.

Elegant, minimalist interior at the 18 Marina Gardens Drive
lofty 1-Altitude
Tel 6694-8489 Warung M Nasir $

Perched atop the tallest Supertree Indonesian Map 2 B5

DK Choice (the metal towers in Gardens by 69 Killiney Road

the Bay whose sides are planted Tel 6734-6228

1-Altitude $$$ with climbers), this restaurant A tiny, modern café, Warung M

European Map 5 D3 offers great views of Marina Bay. Nasir has long been highly rated

Levels 61–63, One Raffles Place The lychee pork beignets and for traditional dishes such as beef

Tel 6438-0410 Closed lunch Vietnamese rolls stuffed with rendang, ayam balado (tangy

There’s no more amazing prawns and herbs show why it spiced chicken), and tempeh

setting for a meal than this has been going strong for years. (fermented soya cakes, prepared

swanky 62nd-floor restaurant in a variety of ways). Desserts are

with stunning views. Menus Little India and both traditional and Western.
Orchard Road
change regularly, but expect

the likes of lamb with eggplant Banana Leaf Apolo $$

and hazelnut purée, or truffle Indian Map 5 D3

gnocchi. There is also a rooftop Ah Chew Desserts $ 54 Race Course Road

alfresco bar on the 63rd floor. Chinese Map 3 E5 Tel 6293-8682

#01-11,1 Liang Seah Street As the name suggests, this

Tel 6339-8198 friendly eatery majors on

Bacchanalia $$$ The desserts make extensive use banana-leaf meals, with staff

Fusion Map 5 D2 of snowy crushed ice, syrups, and ladling out South Indian mutton,

Freemasons’ Hall, 23A Coleman St ingredients surprising to Western fish, or chicken curries onto leaf

Tel 6509-1453 Closed Sun palates such as pulses. Here you “plates”, along with rice and

Portions are designed for can try a vast selection, including accompaniments. They’re famed

sampling, so order, for example, pulot hitam (black glutinous rice for their fish head curry, and

three main courses for two in coconut milk) and peanut paste there’s plenty for vegetarians too.

people. The belly pork with (like peanut butter, only a broth).

cabbage, apple, and capers is a

trademark dish. Haji Maimunah $

Malay Map 3 E4

Flutes $$$ 11 & 15 Jalan Pisang

European Map 5 D1 Tel 6297-4294 Closed Sun

Ground floor, National Museum, Truely authentic Malay food (as

93 Stamford Road opposed to superficially similar

Tel 6338-8770 Indonesian fare) can be hard to

This elegant eatery offers find. This plain kedai kopi does the

beauifully crafted dishes such genuine article, including

as lobster bolognaise and, for delicacies such as spicy snails in

Sunday lunch, English roast beef coconut milk, plus a good range

with all the trimmings. From of kuih, Malay sweetmeats based

Friday to Sunday they are also on glutinous rice, tapioca, and

open for afternoon teas of other tropical ingredients. May

sandwiches, scones, and quiche. close during Ramadan.

Sabio $$$ Kampong Glam Café $

Spanish Map 4 C4 Malay Map 3 F4

5 Duxton Hill 17 Bussorah Street

Tel 6690-7562 Tel 6294-1697

At this compact, Spanish-owned Few places to socialize and

venue there is a huge range of people-watch are more Comfy seating at Bacchanalia, which serves
plates for sharing
authentic high-quality tapas, plus endearing than this kedai kopi, a

For key to prices see page 290

WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK 301

Bistro Du Vin $$

French Map 1 F2

#01-14 Shaw Centre, 1 Scotts Road

Tel 6733-7763

The contemporary, informal

Bistro du Vin serves up good-

value dishes such as onion soup,

duck leg confit, and coq au vin.

There are tasty desserts too,

including an impressive Grand

Marnier soufflé.

Chao Shan Cuisine $$

Chinese Map 3 E5

85 Beach Road

Tel 6336-2390

Specializing in Teochew cuisine

from southeast China, this

unpretentious family-run eatery Massaman chicken curry with Thai-style pancake, a signature dish at Thai Express

serves classics such as roast

goose, but the chef will cook salads, pasta, crepes, and the evening buffets. They cover street
obligatory rösti. Each customer is food perennials (such as carrot
anything to order as long as they given a plastic card which stores cake – a savory dish of rice flour
all their orders. and white radish fried in egg),
have the ingredients. Malay and Indian standards (satay,
roti), and some Peranakan fare.
Crystal Jade La Mian Xiao

Long Bao $$ Saravanaa Bhavan $$

Chinese Map 2 A4 Indian Vegetarian Map 3 E2

#04-27 Ngee Ann City, 391 Orchard 84 Syed Alwi Road Farther Afield

Road Tel 6297-7755

Tel 6238-1661 This is a branch of a chain that Food Republic $

Shanghai and northern Chinese started in Chennai and extends Asian

cuisine: the xiao long bao of the beyond Tamil food to offer dishes Level 3, VivoCity mall, 1 Harbourfront

name are delectable Shanghai- like bisibelabath (a rice, lentil, and Walk

style steamed pork buns. They’re vegetable concoction from Tel 6276-0521

also known for la mian, traditional Karnataka). The menu includes Food Republic is a food-court

hand-stretched noodles. biryanis, uthappam (something chain that prides itself on selecting

between a crepe and a pizza), hawkers based on culinary sklll.

Herbivore $$ and north Indian curries too. Their outlet at the gateway to

Japanese Vegetarian Map 3 D4 Sentosa has scissor-cut curry rice

1-13 Fortune Centre, 190 Middle Road Thai Express $$ (a food spread where you order

Tel 6333-1612 Thai Map 2 C4 by pointing and someone cuts

This exemplary modern restaurant #03-24 Plaza Singapura, 68 Orchard up the rice portion with scissors

manages to offer a full range of Road for ease of eating), good

Japanese food using soy and Tel 6339-5442 Indonesian nasi padang (steamed

other meat substitutes. The set The menu at this modern rice dishes), and much more.

meal platters are particularly restaurant is dominated by one-

recommended. It gets busy at bowl dishes of noodles (notably Guan Hoe Soon $$

weekends, when they may not Thai laksas) or rice with red or Peranakan

take reservations. green curry. There are plenty of 38/40 Joo Chiat Place, Katong

veggie options and side dishes Tel 6344-2761

Kiseki $$ such as battered crab. Katong is the Singapore suburb

Japanese Map 2 B4 where Peranakan culture still has

#08-01 Orchard Central, 181 Orchard PS Café $$$ a toehold, and this is one of the

Road Internationl Map 1 F2 best restaurants for the cuisine.

Tel 6736-1216 Level 2, Palais Renaissance, 390 Sample classics like bak wan

The sumo wrestler statue at the Orchard Road kepiting (crab and pork balls),

entrance hints at what can happen Tel 9834-8232 chap chye (a vegetable and

to waistlines here: buffet tables In what resembles a glasshouse, fungus stir-fry), and otak otak

groan with everything from PS Café has long been known for (slivered, spicy dumplings).

sashimi to yakitori, and there’s an well-presented, creative cooking.

equally impressive dessert Brunches are hearty – try the Samy’s $$

section. Note that pricing on superfood salad of blueberries, Indian

weekends is nearly double the almonds, and quinoa, or spicy Block 25, Dempsey Road, close to the

weekday lunch cost. crab tart – but it’s hard to go Botanic Gardens

wrong here at any time of day. Tel 6472-2080 Closed Tue

Marché $$ There are few more atmospheric

Swiss Map 2 B4 Straits Kitchen $$$ places to have a traditional Indian

Basement, 313@Somerset, 313 Chinese/Peranakan Map 2 A3 meal on banana-leaf platters

Orchard Road Grand Hyatt Hotel, 10 Scotts Road than here, under whirring ceiling

Tel 6834-4041 Tel 6738-1234 fans at a former British military

Each counter specializes in The very best in Singapore base. Both north and south

a different item at this cooking is offered under one roof Indian food is available, but it is

delicatessen-style restaurant: with the extravagant lunch and best known for fish head curry.

For more information on types of restaurants see pp284–5

302 TRAVELERS’ NEEDS

SHOPPING IN MALAYSIA

Malaysia is an affluent country with a rapidly notably Kuala Lumpur, Penang, and Johor
developing economy and Malaysians love to Bahru, offering sophisticated malls, and the
shop. There is an astonishing variety of smaller east coast cities, such as Kota Bharu
shopping options, from the latest electronic and Kuala Terengganu, acting as the
gadgets to a wealth of traditional art and repository of Malay artistry, especially batik,
handicraft items. Differences exist between colorful kites, and shadow puppets. Sarawak
the range, quality, and prices available in the and Sabah in Malaysian Borneo are unrivaled
various regions, with the large cities on the for their array of ethnic products, skilfully
western coast of Peninsular Malaysia, crafted by the indigenous people.

Department Stores and malls have fast-food outlets, Local Markets (Tamus)
Shopping Malls while the upmarket ones also and Stalls
feature expensive restaurants.
Shopping malls, ranging from Many have multiplex movie Malaysia is brimming with local
modest establishments to theaters, food courts, Internet markets, or tamus. Almost every
plush, air-conditioned, cafés, and branches of banks town and village has at least
multistory buildings, are with facilities such as money one bustling central market,
ubiquitous in Malaysian towns changing and ATMs. Malls in usually containing a multitude
and cities. They contain a mix of west coast cities, especially of stalls offering a bewildering
large department stores that sell those in Kuala Lumpur, compare selection of goods, from local
branded goods, supermarkets with the glitziest outlets in the crafts to clothes and household
offering both local and imported Western countries and are an items. Very often there is also a
food, and dozens of smaller excellent source of a wide range wet market selling fresh meat,
shops that stock everything of international luxury brands. fruits, and vegetables.
from mobile phones, computers, Besides those in the malls, there Numerous hawker stalls offer an
electronic goods, and English are several independent array of local delicacies. Prices
and Malay books, to a wealth of department stores, such as are reasonable, the quality is
souvenirs, clothes, shoes, and Kuala Lumpur’s Isetan, which is generally good, and standards
accessories, such as bags and part of a Japanese chain. of hygiene are very high, even
watches. Nearly all shopping in fish markets, which are
regularly hosed.

Another enduringly popular
feature and a highlight for
many of a trip to Malaysia are its
pasar malams, or night markets.
The most fascinating of these
are in Kuala Lumpur (see pp62–
83), Johor Bahru (see p134),
Penang (see pp106–15), Kuching
(see pp160–63), and Kota
Kinabalu (see p184).

Most state capitals and the
larger towns of Malaysia and
Singapore often have ethnic
enclaves, such as Chinatown
and Little India, which are
excellent places to buy Chinese
and Indian products.

The Sungei Wang Plaza in Kuala Lumpur’s Golden Triangle (see p306) Shopping Hours

Business hours for shops can
vary substantially throughout
Malaysia, but most establish-
ments are open from 9am to
6:30pm, Monday to Saturday.
Malls and major emporia open
later, usually between 10am and
10:30am and stay open longer,
until 9:30pm or 10pm. Most
major malls are open seven

SHOPPING IN MALAYSIA 303

days a week. Shops in the
conservative Islamic east coast
states of Kelantan and
Terengganu are closed on
Friday, the Muslim Sabbath.

Methods of Payment Fresh fish sold at a market in Tawau, Sabah Guarantees

Cash is universally accepted Bargaining Buyers should always be careful
and a few places in major cities with their selection at the time
also take US dollars and euros. In Malaysia, bargaining is an of purchase to avoid problems
However, money changers are accepted practice. However, later. Most government shops
found everywhere. Credit cards whether to bargain or not and large department stores
are widely accepted except in depends on the kind of market will accept the return of faulty
the smallest of stores. The shoppers are in. Top-end goods, but it might not be
preferred cards include VISA, department stores, shopping as easily done for products
MasterCard, and JCB, while malls, and government bought at street stalls, especially
larger establishments also emporia have fixed prices, antique shops that are not
accept American Express and though the latter offer good recommended or guaranteed
Diners Club cards. A very small fixed-price deals. by the government.
number of shops levy a service
charge, but this is becoming In most local markets and Photography
less common. stalls, bargaining is not just
accepted but is also expected. Malaysia, like Singapore, tends
Sales Tax Buyers can often obtain a to be at the cutting edge of
substantial reduction in the photographic technology. Deals
Malaysia charges a 6 percent original price. Remember to are just as great as in Singapore,
Goods and Services Tax (GST). keep the exchange polite and and sometimes better, due to
For food and accommodation, good-natured, and if a keen good exchange rates. The range
however, customers can price is important to you, it is of products is excellent, though
expect to pay a service tax always a good idea to browse digital technology has swept
of 10 percent at luxury hotels in several shops and know the aside slide film. Print film
and restaurants, in addition fair price of the product you remains available, and film-
to the government tax of wish to buy before you begin developing facilities are
6 percent. Malaysia has some negotiating. A good rule of ubiquitous, fast, and cheap.
designated duty-free areas, thumb is to offer half the initial
including Pulau Langkawi in price and go from there.
the west and Pulau Labuan in
the east, designed to attract
shoppers. There are also
duty-free areas in Kelantan
at Rantau Panjang and
Pengkalan Kubur, as well as in
Kedah at Padang Besar and
Bukit Kayu Hitam.

A shopping street in Kuala Lumpur at night Imitations

Although the sale of imitation
goods and knock-offs is illegal
in Malaysia, and there is a
growing clampdown on the
sale of illicit goods, such
products continue to be sold at
small stores and stalls. Since
most of these products are very
cheap and of poor quality and
because such trade breaches
property rights, the purchase of
fakes, such as faux designer
bags, clothing, and illegal copies
of VCDs and DVDs, although
tempting, is best avoided.

304 TRAVELERS’ NEEDS

What to Buy in Malaysia

Glitzy shopping malls, bustling local markets, vibrant pasar Visitors at a chic shopping mall in
malams (night markets), and small craft shops across Malaysia Kuala Lumpur
offer a good range of souvenirs for visitors to take home.
Traditionally styled Malay, Chinese, and Indian artifacts are
widely available; however, some craft items are restricted to
specific regions. The country can boast an astonishing range
of products, including antique furniture, ikat cloth, batik
prints, woodcarvings, and shadow puppets, besides
handicraft items produced by indigenous people.

Malay Products Wayang Kulit
Shadow puppet theater,
With the rising demand for ethnic Malay goods, aided by or wayang kulit, is a
Malaysia’s thriving tourism and patronage offered by the Malay folk art
country’s leading banks and oil companies, art in Malaysia whose traditions
is flourishing as never before. Malay goods are available are passed on
almost everywhere, but are especially visible in Kuala orally. These
Lumpur, Johor Bahru, Kelantan, and Terengganu. colorful leather
puppets are
Silverware available in
The best Malay silverware, Kelantan and
with its trademark filigree Kuala Lumpur.
embellishments, is produced
in Terengganu and Kelantan.
These areas specialize in belt
buckles and tobacco boxes.

Batik Fabric Songket Silk Fabrics
Malay batik uses Belonging to the brocade family of textiles,
wax and dyes to songket is hand-woven on looms and features
print on fabrics. elaborate patterns created with a gold and
Shirts, skirts, and silver weft.
sarongs in batik-print
are best bought from
Malaysia’s east coast.

Kites Ceramic Items
While the principal designs of Shaped by
traditional Malay kites are hand, pottery
derived from nature, is produced in
decorations are Selangor and Perak.
unique to each Ayer Itam, a small town
craftsman. Kite- in Peninsular Malaysia, is
making shops can known for its pottery and
be found in porcelain crafts. The Cameron Highlands are
villages along the also a good place to buy ceramics.
east coast of
Peninsular
Malaysia.

Masks
Traditionally, Malaysian and Southeast Asian masks
represent people, demons, and deities. They are
cultural icons that help preserve tradition, religion,
and history. Malay ceremonial masks are commonly
available in Melaka.

SHOPPING IN MALAYSIA 305

Products from Malaysian Borneo

Sabah and Sarawak are unrivaled for items crafted
by indigenous people and by Malay Christians,
including fine ikat cloth, shamanistic religious
paraphernalia, and woodcarvings.

Bamboo Products Ikat Design
Items made of bamboo, palm leaf, and rattan, including Often a symbol of status and power, ikat,
finely woven baskets and hats, are available in bazaars meaning to tie in Malay, is a style of weaving
throughout Sarawak and Sabah. created by dyeing the warp. The best ikat is
produced in Sarawak.
Chinese Products
Woodcarvings
Malaysia is especially popular for locally Woodcarvings depicting
produced Peranakan or Straits Chinese goods, people, spirits, and animals
including antique furniture and ceramics. in the shamanistic tradition
Standard Chinese wares are imported from Hong are widely available in
Kong and the Chinese mainland. Kuching, Kota Kinabalu,
and at Selangor’s small
Chinese Antique Orang Asli Museum.
Furniture
Antique furniture of Good Luck Charms
the Baba-Nyonya Chinese good luck
tradition, made from charms in bright,
hardwood with attractive colors make
exquisite carvings, is cheap and fun
available in Melaka, purchases. They are
where Jalan Hang available almost
Jebat (see p130) is a everywhere.
treasure-house for
antique lovers. Chinese Ceramics
Baba-Nyonya vases,

which are unique to
Malaysia, and
imported china-
ware are available
in big retail out-
lets in Melaka, on
the west cost of

Peninsular Malaysia.

Indian Products Brassware
Fine brass goods, a Tamil
Indian enclaves in Penang, Kuala Lumpur, and
Johor Bahru exude a heady aroma of spices and tradition transplanted to
have several authentic silk stores recreating an Malaysia, comprise house-
ambience similar to that in southern Indian states. hold objects, decorative
ware, and religious items.
Indian Silk Sarees
Traditional Indian Spices
southern Indian Spices, such as
pepper, carda-
kanchipuram silk mom, saffron,
sarees are available cloves, mace,
in the fabric stores nutmeg, and
of Little India in cinnamon, are
Georgetown as well widely available
as in shopping in Malaysia.
malls across
Malaysia.

306 TRAVELERS’ NEEDS

Where to Shop

There are good shops just about everywhere in Malaysia, from
big cities on the peninsula to smaller towns and villages in
Malaysian Borneo. The larger metropolises, especially Kuala
Lumpur, Penang, Johor Bahru, and Kuching, have fantastic
malls selling a fine range of products. The smaller east coast
cities, such as Kota Bharu and Kuala Terengganu, are the
center of traditional Malay arts and crafts, while Sarawak and
Sabah are unrivaled for their ethnic goods.

Kuala Lumpur great bargains, with the Globe An antiques store displaying Peranakan
Silk Store popular for tailor- artifacts, Melaka
The main shopping areas in made clothes. The street springs
Kuala Lumpur are around Bukit to life at night with a pasar Pulau Langkawi
Bintang and Jalan Sultan Ismail malam. Jalan Petaling (see p70)
in the heart of the Golden is great for bargain hunting. One of the major attractions of
Triangle. Major malls here Pulau Langkawi is its status as a
include Bukit Bintang Plaza, Penang duty-free shopping zone. The
Lot 10, Starhill Gallery, and the island’s capital, Kuah, is where
huge Pavilion KL. Sungei Wang After Kuala Lumpur, the best most duty-free shops are
Plaza and Low Yat Plaza, also in place to shop is Penang, with located. Popular outlets include
the Golden Triangle, specialize outlets selling local crafts, the Langkawi Fair Shopping
in electronic goods. Among the antiques, and electronic items Mall and the Jetty Point Duty-
upmarket malls, Suria KLCC in at competitive prices. Jalan Free Complex, both in Kuah.
the Petronas Towers (see p78) is Penang is the best shopping The Zon Duty Free Shopping
popular, and the Mid Valley street in Georgetown, with Paradise at Pantai Cenang and
Megamall is worth visiting. Komtar, a shopping mall located Sunmall at Pantai Tengah are
Publika is also a good addition in a massive 56-story building, worth visiting, although they
to KL’s shopping scene. Perhaps and Chowrasta Bazaar for mainly stock cosmetics,
the best market in Malaysia for spices. The five-story Queensbay cigarettes, and alcohol.
tourists is Central Market, Mall in Penang is the largest
which sells local souvenirs. mall in northern Malaysia. Little Melaka
There is a great variety of batik India (see p108) offers an array of
and handicraft goods for sale at southern Indian products, while The restored Chinese district in
Kompleks Budaya Kraf (see p81). Batu Ferringhi (see p114) has a Melaka is the place to look for
The market at Jalan Tuanku vibrant night market. antiques, both genuine and
Abdul Rahman (see p76) offers imitation, as well as all kinds of
Chinese and Peranakan goods.
Jalan Hang Jebat (see p130) sells
beautiful porcelain, coins, old
lamps, songket fabric, and
antique furniture. There is a
range of handicraft and souvenir
shops in Taman Merdeka
and a pasar malam on Jalan
Paramesawara. The Mahkota
Parade shopping complex on
Jalan Merdeka is Melaka’s largest
shopping venue.

Jalan Petaling, the commercial heart of Chinatown, Kuala Lumpur Johor Bahru

Regarded as one of Malaysia’s
most prosperous towns, Johor
Bahru is located across the
causeway from Singapore,
whose citizens often come to
shop, notably at Justco Terbau
Shopping Mall, Pelangi Leisure
Mall, Perling Mall, and Plaza
Pelangi in Johor Bahru. All these

SHOPPING IN MALAYSIA 307

malls specialize in designer Kuching, Sarawak Kota Kinabalu, Sabah
goods, clothing, luxury goods,
and accessories. Johor Kuching is one of Malaysia’s best The capital of Sabah, Kota
Premium Outlets is a popular shopping destinations, rivaled Kinabalu, has several local
factory outlet in the Iskandar only by Penang and Melaka. handicraft shops selling goods
Malaysia zone. The city is filled with stores of reasonable quality. The
selling souvenirs, ikat cloth, and Filipino Market (see p185) at
Kota Bharu and Asian antiques. It also special- the waterfront is the best
Kuala Terengganu izes in artifacts made by market and sells basketware
indigenous peoples. Jalan and colorful woven ponchos.
The east coast of Peninsular Satok’s Sunday market sells a The products on display
Malaysia abounds with shops variety of crafts and fresh serve as a reminder of how
selling traditional Malay crafts produce. Demonstrations of much closer Sabah is to
such as batik and songket fabric, these crafts are held daily at the Philippines than to
silverware, woodcarvings, and Sarawak Handicraft Center. Peninsular Malaysia.
colorful kites. The handicraft
workshops along the road to Woman selling batik silk in the new Central Market in Kota Bharu
Pantai Cahaya Bulan and
Kompleks Bazaar Buluh Kubu
in Kota Bharu are good stops for
their displays of batik items.

In Kuala Terengganu, Jalan
Bandar near the Central Market
has several small shops selling
local handicrafts and batik cloth,
which are open on all days
except on Fridays. The Noor
Arfa Craft Complex is also a
favorite for traditional crafts,
especially batik and songket.

DIRECTORY

Kuala Lumpur Publika Langkawi Fair Pelangi Leisure Mall
Jalan Dutamas 1, Shopping Mall Jalan Serampang Teman
Bukit Bintang Plaza Hartamas Heights. Persian Putra, Kuah. Pelangi.
Jalan Bukit Bintang. Map Tel (03) 6205-2768. Tel (04) 969-8100. ∑ allmalaysia.info
5 C3. Tel (03) 4252-1781. ∑ publika.com.my
∑ allmalaysia.info Sunmall Perling Mall
Starhill Gallery Jalan Teluk Baru. Jalan Persisiran Perling.
Central Market ∑ starhillgallery.com Tel (07) 955-8300. ∑ perlingmall.com.my
Jalan Hang Kasturi. ∑ sungrouplangkawi.
Map 4 E2. Tel (03) 2274- Sungei Wang Plaza com Plaza Pelangi
6542. ∑ centralmarket. 99 Bukit Bintang. Map 6 Jalan Kuning.
com.my D3. Tel (03) 2144-9988. Zon Duty Free Tel (07) 276-2216.
∑ sungeiwang.com Shopping Paradise
Globe Silk Store Pantai Cenang. Kota Bharu
185 Jalan Tuanku Abdul Penang Tel (04) 955-6100. and Kuala
Rahman. Map 1 B5. Terengganu
Tel (03) 2692-2888. Chowrasta Bazaar Melaka
∑ allmalaysia.info Jalan Penang, Penang. Kompleks Bazaar
Mahkota Parade Buluh Kubu
Lot 10 Komtar 1 Jalan Merdeka. Central Market, Kota Bharu.
Map 6 D2. Jalan Penang. Tel (06) 282-6151. ∑ allmalaysia.info
∑ ytlcommunity.com ∑ allmalaysia.info ∑ allmalaysia.info
Noor Arfa Craft
Low Yat Plaza Queensbay Mall Johor Bahru Complex
Lot 7, Jalan 1/77. ∑ queensbaymall Chendering Terengganu.
Tel (03) 2148-3651. malaysia.com Johor Premium ∑ virtualmalaysia.com
∑ plazalowyat.com Outlets
Pulau Langkawi ∑ premiumoutlets. Kuching, Sarawak
Mid Valley Megamall com.my
∑ midvalley.com.my Jetty Point Duty-Free Sarawak Handicraft
Complex Justco Terbau Center
Pavilion KL ∑ jettypointlangkawi. Shopping Mall ∑ sarawakhandicraft.
168 Jalan Bukit Bintang. com/dutyfree_shops. Tel (07) 354-2131. com.my
∑ pavilion-kl.com htm ∑ justco.com.my

308 TRAVELERS’ NEEDS

ENTERTAINMENT IN MALAYSIA

Entertainment in Malaysia can range from a night-time revelry with a variety of nightclubs
traditional dance performance by the and karaoke bars. Malaysia’s festivals through
indigenous Iban people to the hip nightclubs the year (see pp56–9) are often accompanied
in Kuala Lumpur. As the capital, Kuala Lumpur by traditional performing arts. Theme parks,
boasts a wide choice of entertainment, such as LEGOLAND® Malaysia near Johor Bahru,
including theater, concerts, and art exhibitions. are a great way to enjoy an all-day outing with
However, state capitals such as Johor Bahru, children, while cinema enthusiasts can watch
Kuching, and Kota Kinabalu also cater for the latest Hollywood films at multiplexes.

information on Kuala Lumpur’s
other art galleries it is best to
visit the Kakiseni website.

Theme Parks

Peninsular Malaysia has several

theme parks that offer exciting

all-day amusement for the

entire family. Children especially

enjoy the action-packed

environment. The newest,

opening in 2016, is Twentieth

Century Fox World, the film

Contemporary artwork at the National Art Gallery (see p77), Kuala Lumpur brand’s first theme park and

Event Listings Art Exhibitions part of Malaysia’s Resorts World
Genting, an hour outside of

For comprehensive listings of There are several art halls in Kuala Lumpur. The large park

current and upcoming events Kuala Lumpur, which host will feature more than 25 rides

including art exhibitions, frequently changing exhibitions. and attractions based on Fox

theatrical performances, and The National Art Gallery (see films such as Ice Age, Rio, Planet

concerts in Kuala Lumpur, p77) showcases works of over of the Apes, and Night at the

check English-language dailies 2,500 artists and painters, Museum. LEGOLAND® Malaysia,

such as The Star and New especially works by contem- is a massively popular theme

Straits Times. Another useful porary Malaysian artists. The park, with over 40 rides, huge

publication is Juice, a monthly gallery also hosts rotating models of the Petronas Towers

magazine that lists the exhibitions throughout the and other Asian landmarks

trendiest clubs. Up-to-date year. Another impressive art rendered in the plastic bricks, a

listings from all these publica- gallery is Galeri Petronas at 4-D film screening studio, and a

tions are also available on their Suria KLCC (see p79), which has fun water park. Wet World Water

official websites. The Kakiseni three separate halls of interna- Park in Shah Alam (see p82)

website is an excellent arts tional standard. It houses and Sunway Lagoon are other

portal and TimeOut KL online Malaysia’s largest private art water theme parks with water

provides not only listings but a collection. For detailed chutes and wave pools.

wealth of information regarding

places to stay, restaurants,

outdoor activities, and street maps.

There is no central ticket

booking organization in Kuala

Lumpur, so it is necessary to

contact each venue directly or

ask hotel staff for help with

booking tickets. Unfortunately,

not many older entertainment

venues are equipped with

facilities for the disabled,

although most modern

establishments provide such

amenities. Call individual

venues in advance to check for

details before booking. LEGOLAND® Malaysia, popular with kids of all ages

ENTERTAINMENT IN MALAYSIA 309

The long-running Coliseum Cinema Cinema Musicians playing a traditional Malay
instrument
Theater Kuala Lumpur and big
towns around the experimenting with a fusion of
Kuala Lumpur hosts a great country have numerous new and traditional instruments
variety of theatrical perfor- movie halls and such as synthesizers in an
mances throughout the multiplex cinemas, attempt to keep classical music
year. Apart from touring which screen the latest popular among the younger
Broadway hits, traditional Hollywood releases, generation. Traditional music
and experimental musicals, usually with the original performances are frequently
comedies, and tragedies soundtrack and subtitles held at the Malaysian Tourism
written by international as well in Malay and Chinese. Information Complex (see p80)
as local playwrights, are also Movies from China, and the National Theater (see
staged. There is a particularly India, and other Asian p77) both in Kuala Lumpur.
active fringe theater scene in countries are also Occasionally the National
Kuala Lumpur, with groups such screened. Most cinemas Theater hosts classical music
as Instant Café producing have air conditioning. concerts featuring the National
thought-provoking plays. The Some of the biggest Symphony Orchestra. The main
venues are as varied as the cinema chains are classical venue in Kuala Lumpur
productions, ranging from the Golden Screen is Dewan Filharmonik Petronas,
state-of-the-art Kuala Lumpur Cinemas, Tanjong Malaysia’s first classical concert
Performing Arts Center to the Golden Village, and hall and home to the Malaysian
simple Old China Café. Cathay Cineplexes. The Philharmonic Orchestra. It
oldest cinema in Kuala Lumpur, stages classical concerts and
Traditional Malaysian theater still functioning today, is the hosts local and international
is the shadow puppet play, or Coliseum Cinema (see p76). cultural performances. There is a
wayang kulit, accompanied by a Cinema listings, show times, strict dress code here.
gamelan, music played by a and tickets are available on the
traditional Indonesian percussion Cinema Online website.
orchestra. Once the main form
of entertainment in Malay Traditional and Classical
villages, it is now mostly Music
performed in some rural parts
of the east coast states of Reflecting a blend of cultures,
Terengganu and Kelantan. One predominantly Indian, Chinese,
good place to catch a show is Muslim, and Indonesian,
at Gelanggang Seni in Kota traditional Malaysian music is
Bharu (see pp152–3) and a based largely around several
typical performance often lasts types of drums – an influence of
about 8 hours. Chinese opera, the gamelan – and other
or wayang, a mix of dialog, percussion instruments. Modern
dance, and music is also composers are constantly
traditionally performed in the
country. Street shows are held The grand auditorium at the Dewan Filharmonik
mostly during festivals such as
the Chinese New Year (see p34).

310 TRAVELERS’ NEEDS

Pubs, Bars, and Karaoke

Kuala Lumpur has a dizzying

range of nightlife haunts that

cater to every taste. The greatest

concentration of pubs and bars

is in the Golden Triangle (see p80).

Located here is Pisco Bar, a

well-stocked bar, live music

venue, boutique, and art gallery

in one, as well as the Beach

Club Café, which mostly plays

old favorites and is often packed

to the rafters. The capital’s other

pulsating nightspot is around

Hard Rock Café, one of the best venues in Kuala Lumpur for live bands Bangsar. Bars such as Finnegan’s

Contemporary Music Originally presented only in serving Kilkenny beer and La
Bodega with its Spanish

Extremely popular among Kelantan’s royal courts, it is now ambience infuse it with a

Malaysian youth, contemporary enjoyed by all. Silat is an elegant cosmopolitan feel. Another bar

Western music often provides dance that developed from worth a visit for lovers of rhythm

inspiration for local groups who martial arts and is accompanied and blues music is Modesto’s.

create songs in Malay that are by percussion music. It is often Karaoke is hugely popular in

set to pop, rock, hip-hop, or performed at weddings and most Asian countries, and

underground beats. Touring festivals. One of the most Malaysia is no exception.

pop stars of international repute popular dances from Sarawak Among Kuala Lumpur’s chic,

occasionally is the datun julud, or hornbill luxurious, and commonly visited

perform in dance. Created by the Kenyah karaoke bars are Cherry

Kuala Lumpur. people, it is based on the Blossom, Deluxe Nite Club, and

The Arena of the story of a prince blessed Club De Vegas.

Stars stadium in with a grandson and Other main towns in the

Genting Highlands involves a single female country with a fair choice of

(see p96) is a popular dancer who waves fans pubs and bars are Kuching,

venue for such of hornbill feathers to Johor Bahru, Kota Kinabalu,

concerts. Some of the most the sound of a sape, or a and several in Penang. Since

popular contemporary live traditional guitar. A drinks can be expensive in

music venues in Kuala good place to enjoy Malaysia, it is worth looking

Lumpur are the Hard Rock traditional music and out for places that offer happy

Café, No Black Tie, and dance in Sarawak is the hour prices, typically two

KL Live. Many famous Dancer Sarawak Cultural Village drinks for the price of one.

DJs from Europe also performing (see p165). In Kuala Generally, happy hour is

visit Kuala Lumpur’s datun julud Lumpur, dance perform- between 5 and 8pm. Many

hippest clubs. ances are held at the bars feature live music, espe-

Malaysia Tourism Information cially at weekends, for which

Traditional Dance Complex, as well as at the there is usually a cover charge
National Theater. of around RM20.

Like its music, Malaysia’s

traditional dances are strongly

influenced by Islamic, Indian,

and Chinese cultures, though

they have evolved into their

own unique styles. Many of

these dance forms continue to

enjoy widespread popularity in

the country and are performed

during special occasions and

festivals. Perhaps the most

popular traditional dance is

joget, which has its origins in

Portuguese folk dance and is

performed by couples who

blend fast and graceful move-

ments with playful humor. Mak

yong combines romantic drama,

dance, and operatic singing. Men performing silat, or a traditional martial art dance, in Kelantan

ENTERTAINMENT IN MALAYSIA 311

Nightclubs and Discos Zouk Club, Desire, Maison, Petronas Towers. Discos tend to
Luna Bar, and Sky Bar in the be located in upscale shopping
Although nightclubs and discos Traders Hotel. Both Luna Bar and malls or in hotels, and among
can be found in all large Sky Bar have the advantage of the most popular clubs are
Malaysian towns, Kuala Lumpur offering fantastic views of the Liquid Bar and Sultan Lounge.
has the widest choice of venues.
Most places don’t pick up pace A crowded dance floor in a Malaysian club
until around 10pm, but are
throbbing with life until the
early hours of dawn. Several
locations feature Ladies’ Nights
when women can get free entry.
The popularity of individual
clubs tends to fluctuate, but the
hottest spots in town can
usually be found around the
junction of Jalan P. Ramlee and
Jalan Sultan Ismail. Most places
play European and British house
music, and frequently feature
well-known international DJs.
Among the trendiest places are

DIRECTORY

Event Listings Old China Café No Black Tie Modesto’s
11, Jalan Balai Polis, 17 Lorong Mesui, Kuala Sri Hartamas, Kuala
Juice Kuala Lumpur. Lumpur. Lumpur. Map 2 E5.
∑ juiceonline.com Tel (03) 2072-5915. Tel (03) 2142-3737. Tel (03) 6201-7898.

Kakiseni Cinema Pubs, Bars, and Pisco Bar
∑ kakiseni.com Karaoke 329 Jalan Mesui (off Jalan
Cathay Cineplexes Nagasari), Bukit Bintang.
New Straits Times 2 Selangor Darul Ehsan. Beach Club Café Map 5 C2.
∑ nst.com.my Tel (03) 7727-8051. 97 Jalan P. Ramlee, Kuala Tel (03) 2142-2900.
Lumpur. Map 2 D5.
The Star Cinema Online Tel (03) 2166-9919. Nightclubs and
∑ thestar.com.my ∑ cinemaonline.com. Discos
my La Bodega
Timeout KL 31 Tengkat Tong Shin, Desire
∑ timeout.com/kl Golden Screen Kuala Lumpur. Jalan Doraisamy, Kuala
Cinemas Tel (03) 2142-6368. Lumpur. Map 1 B4.
Theme Parks Mid Valley Megamall, Tel (02) 200-1926.
Bangsar. Cherry Blossom
Legoland® Malaysia Tel (03) 2938-3366. Sun Kompleks, Off Jalan Liquid Bar
Bukit Bintang, Kuala Jalan Hang Kasturi.
7 Jalan Legoland, Bandar Tanjong Golden Lumpur. Map 5 C3.
Medini, Nusajaya, Johor. Village Tel (03) 2144-4895. Luna Bar
Tel (07) 597 8888. Level 3 Suria KLCC. Map 2 Menara Panglobal,
∑ legoland.com.my F5. Tel (03) 7492-2929. Club De Vegas Jalan Puncak. Map 5 B1.
3 Jalan Imbi, Kuala Tel (03) 2332-7777.
Sunway Lagoon Traditional and Lumpur. Map 5 C3.
11/11 Bandar Sunway, Classical Music Tel (03) 2141-3888. Maison
Petaling Jaya, Selangor. 8 Jalan Yap Ah Shak,
Tel (03) 5635-8000. Dewan Filharmonik Deluxe Nite Club Kuala Lumpur. Map 1 B5.
∑ sunwaylagoon.com Petronas Ampang Park Shopping Tel (03) 2694-3341.
Petronas Towers. Center, Jalan Ampang,
Theater Map 2 E4. Tel (03) 2051- Kuala Lumpur. Sky Bar
7007. ∑ malaysian Tel (03) 2162-1399. Traders Hotel, KLCC. Map
Kuala Lumpur filharmonik.com 2 F5. Tel (03) 2332-9888.
Performing Arts Finnegan’s
Center Contemporary 51 Jalan Sultan Ismail, Sultan Lounge
Jalan Strachan, Kuala Music Kuala Lumpur. Mandarin Oriental, Jalan
Lumpur. Tel (03) 4047- Tel (03) 2145-1930. Pinang.
7000. ∑ klpac.com Hard Rock Café Tel (03) 2380-8888.
Jalan Sultan Ismail, Kuala KL Live
Lumpur. Map 2 D5. 1st Floor, Life Centre, 20 Zouk Club
Tel (03) 2715-5555. Jalan Sultan Ismail, Kuala Jalan Ampang, Kuala
Lumpur. Tel (03) 2162-2570. Lumpur. Map 2 E4.
Tel (03) 2171-1997.

312 TRAVELERS’ NEEDS

OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES IN
MALAYSIA

From the summit of Gunung Kinabalu to the rain forests in the world with their towering
depths of the South China Sea, Malaysia trees, tangled vines, and gaping limestone
offers an array of opportunities to enjoy the caves are wonderful to explore. Tour agents
country’s natural wonders. Pristine offshore cater to the needs of special interest groups,
islands such as the Perhentians, Tioman, and from climbers to bird-watchers, while river
Sipadan attract divers with their stunning cruises are a comfortable way of visiting the
coral reefs and rich marine life. Most beach mangrove swamps on the coast of Malaysian
resorts offer adventure sports such as wind- Borneo. The agreeable climate is perfect for
surfing, water-skiing, and snorkeling. The oldest golf enthusiasts.

photography, as well as for
activities such as trekking and
fishing. These can be obtained
either at the park itself or, if in
Sarawak, from the National
Parks Booking Offices. Many
parks offer accommodations
and, while it is not mandatory to
book in advance for all, it is
advisable to do so as preserves
and parks tend to get busy,
especially during weekends and
holidays. Some parks may
require permits for camping.
The National Parks Booking
Offices also handle
accommodation bookings.

Speedboat tour at Bako National Park (see pp168–9), Sarawak

Guided Tours Bookings and Permits for Trekking

Tourism in Malaysia is well National Parks Malaysia’s national parks are
developed and tour operators,
such as CPH Travel Agency and At most national parks and ideal for those wishing to trek
Asian Overland Services, offer a
wide range of choices. reserves in Malaysia, visitors can through scenic landscape and
Depending on a visitor’s time
and budget, everything from a pay the entry fees at Park observe the country’s wildlife.
half-day city tour to a 10-day
tour of the country is available. Headquarters within the At 13,455 ft (4,101 m), Sabah’s

Independent travelers can reserve’s boundaries or at the Gunung Kinabalu is one of the
join tour groups, such as S.I.
Tours and Exotic Adventure, to entrance. However, booking in highest peaks in the world that
visit sights and participate in
activities that would otherwise advance is advisable for a few of can be climbed without special
be prohibitively expensive. For
example, a tour is the best way the parks, such as Tanjung Datu climbing equipment, so it is not
to access Sarawak’s Mulu
National Park (see pp176–7), hike National Park (see p166) and surprising that hundreds set out
up Gunung Kinabalu (see
pp190–93) in Sabah, or join a Semenggoh Wildlife Centre every day with the intention of
white-water rafting expedition
down Sungai Padas (see p187). (see p167). Permits and
The advantage of joining a
guided tour is that the local entrance tickets can be
guide’s knowledge can enrich
the experience of visiting a obtained at the
place you may never return to.
National Parks Booking

Office in Kuching

(see p161) or at its

branch in Miri. Visitors

entering Endau-Rompin

National Park (see p143)

from Johor also have

the option of buying a

permit from the Forestry

Commission online.

Some parks require

official permits for

professional filming and Braving the Pinnacles at Mulu National Park

OUTDOOR AC TIVITIES IN MALAYSIA 313

Caving

Malaysia’s landscape, riddled

with some of the world’s largest

limestone caves, lures

spelunkers from around the

world. Many guas, or caves, such

as Lang’s Cave in Gulung Mulu,

are covered with beautiful

stalactites and stalagmites,

while others, such as the nearby

Deer Cave, offer opportunities

for adventure caving, following

rarely visited routes.

The caves at Niah (see p174)

and Mulu National Park in

Sarawak attract millions of bats

and birds, which roost in their

Following the jungle trail near Asah waterfall (see p136), Southern Peninsula dank interiors. Sabah’s

Gomantong Caves (see p197) are

standing on its summit. Park Gunung Kinabalu test the fittest famed for their swiftlet nests.

authorities advise against of walkers. Peradayan Forest Locals clamber up bamboo

climbing Kinabalu independ- Reserve in Brunei also offers poles to retrieve the nests,

ently and hiring a guide is many good trails. considered a gastronomic

recommended. A climbing Most of Malaysia’s forests are delicacy by some. The best time

permit can be purchased on ecologically fragile and to see the cave’s wildlife is at

arrival at Park Headquarters. protected by the Department dusk, during the changeover

Most climbers take two days of Wildlife and National Parks. when bats come hurtling out

to reach this summit with an While many visitors opt to trek for their night feeding and

overnight stay in one of the on their own following color- swiftlets return to their nests.

mountain huts, such as the coded trails, treks can be Though smaller than the

one at Laban Rata, 10,738 ft organized by the department caves in Borneo, the illumi-

(3,273 m) above sea level. It is or private companies, such as nated caverns at Tempurong

essential to pre-book, par- Borneo Adventure or Jungle in Selangor and the Hindu

ticularly in the peak season School. shrines at Batu Caves (see p96)

(April). Wear good walking Hikers should shield are remarkable. For those

boots and warm, waterproof themselves from the sun and intrigued by their hidden

clothing, and bring a sleeping drink lots of water to avoid recesses, the Malaysian Nature

bag, water, and high-energy dehydration. Leech socks can Society Caving Group offers

food. A flashlight is invaluable also be very useful, especially quick courses and arranges

since climbs can start early in during the wet season. cave explorations.

the morning to catch the

sunrise at the summit.

For less strenuous climbs,

there are alternatives, ranging

from a trek up Taman Negara’s

Gunung Tahan (see pp144–5)

to the climb up Sarawak’s

Gunung Mulu (see p177) or the

Pinnacles on Gunung Api (see

p177). Malaysia’s terrain is

challenging, and it is wise to

trek with local tour companies,

such as Jungle School.

In parks that lie within the

protected area of Sarawak

Forestry Corporation, such as

Mulu National Park, guides are

mandatory while trekking.

Taman Negara is best for

beginners as it has trails for

every level of ability. Bako

National Park (see pp168–9) in

Sarawak has several easy trails,

while Gunung Mulu and Gua Kelam, or cave of darkness, in Kuala Perlis

314 TRAVELERS’ NEEDS

Diving in Malaysia

The idyllic islands scattered around the coast of Malaysia provide easy access to the
country’s spectacular dive sites. While Malaysia is a strong draw for experienced divers, it is
also a good training ground for amateurs, with numerous diving outfits offering lessons
(see p317) in the waters around islands such as Pulau Tioman, Pulau Redang, and the
Perhentian Islands. Some of the more common marine creatures that divers can hope to
spot are whale sharks, manta rays, starfish, and a variety of sea turtles. The monsoon season
reduces visibility and makes diving less rewarding. The best time to visit the west coast of
Peninsular Malaysia is from November to May, while March to October are the ideal
months for a trip to the east coast of the peninsula and around Sabah and Sarawak. The
islands off the southwest coast of Sabah are suitable for diving all year round.

Types of Diving Malaysia’s Best Dive

Malaysia’s coastline offers wreck diving, snorkeling, and Sites
coral reef diving. While wreck dives enable experienced
divers to glimpse Malaysia’s underwater treasures, coral • Miri see p174
reefs can be explored by snorkelers and scuba divers. • Perhentian Islands see p148
• Pulau Kapas see p146
Wreck dives allow • Pulau Labuan see p186
divers to explore • Pulau Lankayan see p197
old shipwrecks. • Pulau Redang see p148
The easiest wreck • Pulau Sipadan see pp200–201
to navigate is the • Pulau Sulug see p185
Cement Wreck, • Pulau Tenggol see p146
which sank in • Pulau Tioman see pp136–7
1980 off the coast
of Labuan.

Scuba diving in Malaysia offers the opportunity to experience Snorkeling needs only a mask and

its coral reef system, which supports aquatic organisms a snorkel. It is a great way to watch

numbering up to at least 200 species. underwater life at close quarters.

Marine Life Starfish, also
known as sea
The waters off Malaysia are a treasure trove of stars, are bright
marine species. East coast islands such as Tioman and vibrantly
are home to black marlin and yellowfin, schools of colored. These
barracuda, and reef sharks. boneless species
glide across the

ocean floor.

Whale Sharks are gentle and slow Green Sea Turtles
plankton-feeding sharks. The largest are an endangered
living fish species, they grow to 39 ft species. The adult
(12 m) in length. turtle’s algae diet is
responsible for its
green color.

OUTDOOR AC TIVITIES IN MALAYSIA 315

protective jackets and have
to be good swimmers. The
experience varies, as rivers
offer a sedate drift in the drier
months and a soaking roller-
coaster ride after severe rain.
Children above 12 are allowed
on such trips provided they
are good swimmers and are
accompanied by parents or
legal guardians.

White-water rafting along one of Malaysia’s rivers River Cruises

Diving and Snorkeling White-Water Rafting A comparatively recent
phenomenon on Malaysia’s
Diving is a popular activity for The frothing rivers that tumble ecotourism scene is a cruise
both locals and visitors in out of Malaysia’s rugged through lush rain forests and
Malaysia. Numerous scuba- mountains become rapids en mangrove swamps. These cruises
diving and marine clubs as route to the sea. They once usually set out in the early
well as beach resorts offer formed an impassable barrier mornings or late afternoons,
equipment for hire. Most dive for many explorers. Today, and as the boat glides over the
operators have five-day PADI however, they form the perfect water, knowledgeable guides
courses leading to certification setting for a white-water rafting help spot long-tail macaques,
as a diver and also organize adventure. Rapids are graded silver langurs, and proboscis
trips to dive sites. Borneo from Class I to V, but anything monkeys, as well as birds such
Dream and Sea Sports, Pulau above Class III will need an as hornbills feeding in the trees
Sipadan Resort and Tours, and expert guide. One of the top close to the water’s edge.
Borneo Dive are some of sites is Sabah’s spectacular
Malaysia’s best tour operators. Padas Gorge (see p187) with Such cruises are available in
Class III–IV rapids that leave pad- Pulau Langkawi (see pp118–21)
In several places, coral reefs dlers exhilarated. Sungai and Taman Negara (see pp144–5)
are in shallow water, making it Sungkei and Sungai Kampar in on the peninsula, or at the
easy for snorkelers to get Perak, north of Kuala Lumpur, Klias Wetlands (see p186) and
among them and explore the feature gentler rapids. Kinabatangan Wildlife Sanctuary
pristine vistas and vibrant corals. in Sabah (see p197). Irrawaddy
However, care should be taken No previous experience is dolphins are occasionally seen
not to touch the corals as they necessary for white-water splashing in the shallows
can sting and are easily rafting, as tour operators such as around the mouth of the Sungai
damaged. The number of divers Nomad Adventure and Exotic Santubong in Sarawak. On dis-
permitted at any one time in Adventure run through safety embarking from the cruise, tour
Pulau Sipadan (see pp200–201) procedures before setting off. groups such as S.I. Tours and
is limited, and booking in Rafters wear helmets and Borneo Eco Tours often treat
advance is a must. their guests to a buffet dinner
before driving them back to
their hotels.

Water Sports Kayaking tour in mangrove swamps

Paragliding, windsurfing,
water-skiing, wakeboarding,
and jet-skiing are just some of
the water sports on offer at
Malaysia’s beach resorts. Sea
Quest Tours and Travel
organizes glass-bottom boat
cruises along the coast. They
also arrange sunset cruises
and island-hopping tours.

Some travel insurance com-
panies do not cover injuries
sustained while taking part in
water sports, so policies should
be checked before signing up.

316 TRAVELERS’ NEEDS

A golfer enjoying a round in a spectacular setting Bird-Watching

Golf rarer species. Fraser’s Hill and With more than 600 identified
Taman Negara (see pp144–5) species, Malaysia is a paradise
With affordable caddies, low are both easily accessible wild- for bird-watchers. Part of the
green fees, and equipment hire life-spotting areas. reason for this great diversity is
at reasonable rates, the that Malaysia has many different
country’s well-planned courses Another popular activity is an habitats, including montane
attract golfers from all over the organized tour to spot orang- forests, lowland forests, man-
world. Day visitors can usually utans in their natural habitat at grove swamps, and wetlands,
enjoy a game for a fee. Semonggoh Wildlife Centre in which provide good nesting
Sarawak (see p167), or at Sepilok conditions for all kinds of
Almost 200 golf courses are Orangutan Rehabilitation Center birds. Apart from the eight
currently available, with locations (see p196) in Sabah. Wildlife varieties of hornbill that can
ranging from the cool Fraser’s enthusiasts can also see green be seen gliding over the
Hill (see p97) to the coastline of and hawksbill turtles nesting and rain forest canopy, crested
Borneo. A few of the most observe hatchlings being released serpent eagles, mangrove
popular courses in Peninsular by rangers on islands such as pittas, kingfishers, and trogons
Malaysia include the Cameron Gulisan, Bakungan Kecil, and Pulau delight bird-watchers.
Highlands Golf Club. Kuala Selingam, and on a trip to Turtle
Lumpur has the Kuala Lumpur Island National Park (see p196). In Malaysian Borneo, Sarawak
Golf and Country Club, and on WWF, the global conservation is the perfect place for a wildlife
the city’s outskirts are the organization, plans events to holiday and is often referred to
designer Mines Resort Golf and support the terrain threatened as the Land of the Hornbill.
Country Club course and the by poaching and deforestation. Kinabalu National Park (see
Templer Park Golf Club. Further pp190–91) in Sabah has a fan-
afield on Langkawi is the award- tastic variety of flycatchers and
winning Els Club and Gunung magpies. Among the best
Raya Golf Resort. locations on Peninsular Malaysia
for bird-watching are Kuala
Selangor Nature Park and
Fraser’s Hill, where swiftlets and
cuckoos predominate. Enthu-
siastic twitchers might like to
join in one of many birding
events, such as the Fraser’s
Hill International Bird Race
(see p97) that takes place
annually in June.

Borneo Mainland Travel and
Tours, Birdtour Asia, Malaysian
Nature Society Birding Group,
Rockjumper, and Birding Pal
are among the tour operators
and groups that organize bird-
watching itineraries. Binoculars,
a good field-guide, and a hat
will prove to be very useful.

Wildlife Viewing Enthusiastic bird-watchers on a jungle tour

People visit Malaysia in great
numbers to view its tropical
biodiversity comprising over
200 kinds of mammals, many
thousands of flowering plants,
and a spectrum of butterflies.
Malaysia’s wildlife includes
orangutans, Borneo gibbons,
proboscis monkeys, and
hornbills. It may be necessary
to trek through jungles or
climb up mountains to spot

OUTDOOR AC TIVITIES IN MALAYSIA 317

DIRECTORY

Guided Tours Caving Golf Borneo Mainland
Travel and Tours
Asian Overland Malaysian Nature Cameron Highlands 1081, 1st Floor, Jalan
Services Society Caving Group Golf Club Merpati, Miri, Sarawak.
Ampang Point, Kuala 641 JKR Jalan Kelantan, PO Box 66, 39007 Tel (085) 433-511.
Lumpur. Tel (03) 4252- Bukit Persekutuan, Kuala Tanah Rata, ∑ borneomainland.
9100. ∑ asianoverland. Lumpur. Map 3 A4. Cameron Highlands, com
com.my Tel (03) 2287-9422. Pahang.
∑ mns.org.my Tel (05) 491-1126. Malaysian Nature
CPH Travel Agency Society Birding
Kuching, Sarawak. Diving and Els Club Group
Tel (082) 414-921. Snorkeling Pulau Langkawi. 641 JKR Jalan Kelantan,
∑ cphtravel.com.my Tel (04) 959-2700. Bukit Persekutuan,
Borneo Divers and ∑ elsclubmalaysia. Kuala Lumpur.
Exotic Adventure Sea Sports com Map 3 A4.
Lot 1, 1st Floor, Block D, Tel (088) 222-226. Tel (03) 2287-9422.
Segama Complex, Kota ∑ borneodivers.info Gunung Raya Golf ∑ mns.org.my
Kinabalu, Sabah. Resort
Tel (088) 486-886. Borneo Dream Jalan Air Hangat, Rockjumper
∑ exotic-adventure. Tel (088) 244-064. Kisap, Langkawi. ∑ rockjumperbirding.
com ∑ borneodream.com Tel (04) 966-8148. com
∑ golfgr.com.my
S.I. Tours Pulau Sipadan Resort
Lot 1002–1003, Wisma and Tours Kuala Lumpur Golf
Khoo, Siak Chiew, 1st floor, No. 484, and Country Club
Sandakan, Sabah. Block P, Bandar Sabindo, 10 Jalan 1/70D,
Tel (089) 673-502. Tawau, Sabah. off Jalan Bukit Kiara,
∑ sitoursborneo.com Tel (089) 765-200. Kuala Lumpur.
∑ sipadan-resort.com Tel (03) 2011-9188.
Bookings and ∑ klgcc.com
Permits for Water Sports
National Parks Mines Resort Golf
Sea Quest Tours and and Country Club
Sarawak National Travel The Mines Resort City,
Parks Booking Office 1 Sutera Harbour Selangor Darul Ehsan.
∑ sarawakforestry.com Boulevard, Kota Kinabalu, Tel (03) 943-2288.
Sabah. Tel (088) 248-006. ∑ minesgolfclub.com
Trekking ∑ seaquesttours.net
Templer Park Golf
Borneo Adventure White-Water Club
Gaya Center, Jalan Tun Rafting Rawang, Selangor.
Fuad Stephens, Kota Tel (03) 6091-9111.
Kinabalu, Sabah. Exotic Adventure ∑ tpcc.com.my
Tel (088) 486-800. Lot 1, 1st Floor,
∑ borneoadventure. Block D, Segama Wildlife Viewing
com Complex, Kota
Kinabalu, Sabah. WWF (Worldwide
Department of Tel (088) 486-886. Fund for Nature)
Wildlife and ∑ exotic-adventure. 49 Jalan SS23/15
National Parks com Taman Sea,
Jalan Charas, Kuala Petaling Jaya, Selangor.
Lumpur. Nomad Adventure Tel (03) 7803-3772.
Tel (03) 9075-2872. 4.06B, 4th Floor, The
∑ wildlife.gov.my Summit Subang USJ, Suite 1–6 W11 6th Floor,
Persiaran Kewajipan, USJ CPS Tower, Center
Jungle School 1, Subang Jaya, Selangor. Point Complex No. 1,
The Heritage Unit, Kuala Tel (603) 8024-5152. Jalan Center Point,
Lumpur. Tel (019) 342- ∑ nomadadventure. Kota Kinabalu,
2049. ∑ jungleschool. com Sabah.
com.my Tel (088) 262-420.
River Cruises ∑ wwf.org.my
Sarawak Forestry
Corporation Borneo Eco Tours Bird-Watching
Hock Lee Center, Jalan Pusat Perindustrian
Datuk Abang Abdul Kolonbong Jaya, Birding Pal
Rahim, Kuching, Sarawak. Kota Kinabalu. ∑ www.birdingpal.org
Tel (082) 348-001. Tel (088) 438-300.
∑ sarawakforestry.com ∑ borneoecotours.com Birdtour Asia
∑ birdtourasia.com



SURVIVAL
GUIDE

Practical Information 320–329
Travel Information 330–339

320 SURVIVAL GUIDE

PRACTICAL INFORMATION

Malaysia is one of Asia’s top tourist destinations, Malaysia, and Brunei. Visitors should be aware
appealing to package tourists and independent of petty crime, especially bag-snatching, in
travelers alike. The government of Malaysia, Kuala Lumpur, and of a risk of criminality on
long aware of the country’s potential as a Pulau Tioman and eastern Sabah, so some
tropical paradise, has been promoting tourism common-sense caution is needed (see p324).
for decades. Visitors will find that tour operators However, most visits are trouble free.
are efficient, hotels are well maintained, Singapore, on the other hand, is an excep-
traveling around is usually smooth, and local tionally safe country, largely free of violent
people are generally friendly in Singapore, crime, dirt, and most tropical diseases.

A percussionist at the Rainforest World Visas and Passports for between two weeks and
Music Festival (see p165) three months, may be
Visitors need a passport that is extended by applying to the
When to Go valid for at least six months Immigration Department in
from the date of arrival. A visa Bandar Seri Begawan, the
Malaysia, Singapore, and can be obtained overseas at capital of Brunei. Citizens of
Brunei fall entirely within Malaysian embassies, though most other nationalities are
the tropics, so all three many nationalities are granted given 72-hour transit visas.
countries have a hot and one on arrival. Citizens of some
humid climate all year round, European, African, South Singapore stamps in citizens
with temperatures hovering American, and ASEAN from the UK, USA, Australia,
around 30° C (86° F) and rarely countries can stay in Malaysia New Zealand, and Canada for
dipping below 20° C (68° F). for a month without a visa. an initial 30 days, or travelers
Visitors keen to lounge on a Citizens of the UK, USA, New can cross into Malaysia or any
beach or participate in Zealand, Australia, Canada, other country and then return
adventure sports should avoid and Ireland are automatically for three months.
the monsoons. The rainy allowed to stay for three
season affects the west coast months, which can be Customs Information
of the peninsula between May extended for another two
and September. On the east months by applying to the Duty-free limits are 50 cigars,
coast and in Malaysian Borneo, Immigration Department. The 200 cigarettes, or 225g of
the monsoon falls between Malaysian Foreign Office tobacco, as well as a liter of
November and February. It is website has further details. either wine or spirits in
worth timing a visit to coincide Malaysia. Duty is payable on all
with one of the country’s Brunei does not require visas tobacco in Singapore, and you
major festivals, such as the from citizens of the UK, USA, can bring in one liter of wine,
Merdeka Eve celebration (see and most European nations. one of spirits and one of beer.
p58) or the Rainforest World Depending on your nationality, Visitors who are carrying over
Music Festival (see p165). you will be allowed to stay for US$2,500 need to fill a
Chinese and Hindu festivals in either 30 or 90 days. Australians Declaration Form on arrival.
Singapore take place in are issued with a visa on arrival
January and February. for 30 days while Canadians These three countries take a
can stay for only two weeks. very hard line on illegal drugs.
However, an initial stamp, valid Possession can result in a

Visitor’s Center at Suntec City Mall, Singapore

Cycle rickshaws waiting for tourists in front of the Stadthuys in Melaka

PRAC TICAL INFORMATION 321

Visitors watching orangutans at the Sepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation Center (see p196)

lengthy prison term or the closed Mondays. In Malaysia’s ahead of US Pacific Standard
Time (PST) and 13 hours ahead
death penalty in Malaysia, more devout Muslim states, of Eastern Standard Time (EST) in
the USA. However, Malaysia does
Singapore, and Brunei. such as Kedah, Terrangganu, not have daylight saving time;
visitors should note that time
and Kelantan, offices are also differences will change when
countries observing daylight
Visitor Information closed on Friday. Post offices are saving move their clocks forward.
generally open betwen 8am
Lunar Calendar
Anyone considering a visit to and 6pm, Monday to Saturday.
Malaysia and Singapore use the
Malaysia, Singapore, and Brunei In Singapore, government offices Gregorian (Western) calendar
for administrative purposes, but
will find useful remain open between many of their festivals, particularly
Islamic or Chinese, are celebrated
information on the 8:30am and 5pm, according to the lunar calendar.
This means they fall on a different
official websites of Monday to Friday. In day each year. The main difference
between the Chinese and Islamic
Tourism Malaysia, Brunei, government lunar calendars is that the former
uses an intercalary month, so that
the Singapore offices are open festivals occur mostly at the same
time each year, while Islamic
Tourism Board, and between 7:45am and festivals occur about 10 days
earlier each year. Most festivals
Tourism Brunei. 4:30pm and remain are planned to coincide with the
night of the full moon. To find
The websites closed on Friday and exact dates of any festival, it is best
to check the tourist board website
provide details of Sunday. For details of the country concerned.

festivals, hotels, and on the opening Electricity

resorts. The tourist hours of banks see The electrical current in the
region is 220–240 volts at
boards, aided by Guide of Singapore pp326–7, and for 50 hertz. Equipment using
their efficient Tourism Board shops see pp302–3. 110 volts requires a converter.
network of domestic Adaptors are cheap and
available in most big towns.
and overseas offices, offer a Admission Charges Most wall sockets accommo-
wide range of pamphlets on the date three-pronged square pin
plugs as used in the UK.
most attractive tourist Most museums charge a

destinations. For information on nominal entry fee both in

Malaysian Borneo, both the Malaysia and in Singapore. Most

Sabah Tourism Board and the national parks charge RM10,

Sarawak Tourism Board have except Kinabalu National Park,

detailed websites. Most hotels where the fee is RM15. Some of

operate a tour service or can the more developed attractions

make arrangements for guests charge a higher entry fee,

while backpackers’ lodges are including the Sepilok Orangutan

generally excellent sources of Rehabilitation Center (RM30)

local information. and Sarawak Cultural Village

(RM60). Night safaris tend to be

Opening Hours expensive. Both countries have
lower rates for children.

Government offices in Malaysia

are open 8:30am–5:30pm, Local Time
Monday to Friday. Museums

keep similar hours, though it is Malaysia, Singapore, and Brunei

worth checking specific loca- are 8 hours ahead of Greenwich

tions as some museums are Mean Time (GMT), 16 hours

322 SURVIVAL GUIDE

Family boat ride on Sungai Santubong humid year-round. Hats and
sunglasses are also advisable.
Traveling with Children and shopping centers in A sweater and windproof jacket
Singapore provide ramps and are recommended for those
Parents traveling with children other amenities for those with visiting hill stations. As there is
will often be surprised and special needs, but these are some rainfall throughout the
delighted to find that their less common in Malaysia. year in Malaysia, a raincoat is
children are usually treated Facilities are slowly improving, handy. It is also important to
with affection and care almost however. Public transport lacks carry a few long-sleeved shirts
everywhere in Malaysia, wheelchair accessibility, and and pairs of trousers or full-
Singapore, and Brunei. An towns have high kerbs and length dresses, not just as
example of this is in restaurants, uneven sidewalks. Travel protection from the sun, but
where the staff are often helpful, websites for the disabled, such also for visits to conservative
and willing to occupy children as Global Access News, offer rural areas and religious
while parents have their meal. some guidance. venues as well as visits to
Malaysia is particularly child- smart restaurants and hotels.
friendly, with a wide range of Gay and Lesbian Singapore is generally smarter
places to visit that interest Travelers than Malaysia when it comes
people of all ages. Childcare to dining out.
products are available Officially, neither Malaysia
throughout the region except nor Singapore welcomes gay Since laundry services are
in rural areas and remote and lesbian travelers, and available in most hotels and
destinations. Children’s health, delivers strict punishment for guesthouses and cheap cloth-
however, requires protection, homosexual acts. Nevertheless, ing, such as T-shirts and batik
especially against exposure to a number of bars and clubs in shirts, can be bought every-
heat, and food- and water- Singapore and Kuala Lumpur where, it is easy to travel light.
related ailments. bolster a thriving gay scene.
For more information on Photography
Women Travelers gay and lesbian issues and
events across Asia consult the Natural beauty, teeming wildlife,
Malaysia, Singapore, and website Utopia. and stunning architecture
Brunei are reasonably safe for ensure that most places in
women traveling alone. It is What to Wear Malaysia, Singapore, and Brunei
important to bear in mind, are extremely photogenic.
though, that due to the conser- Light, casual clothes in cotton People are generally quite happy
vative nature of Malaysian and other natural fibers are to have their picture taken, but to
culture, unaccompanied ideal for the tropical climate of avoid causing offence, always
Western women may attract Malaysia, Singapore, and request their permission first,
attention, particularly in rural Brunei, which are hot and especially while visiting the
districts and Muslim areas. indigenous people. Similarly, it is
Women travelers are unlikely to advisable to ask a priest or imam
be harassed if they are consider- at all temples and mosques
ate of local customs, wear mod- before taking pictures there.
est clothing, and avoid taking
risks such as hitchhiking and Photo shops in Malaysia’s big
walking alone at night. cities and in Singapore are
well stocked with equipment,
memory cards, and print film;
prices are cheaper than in the
West. Professional slide film is
only available in big cities, and
even then it might be better to

Disabled Travelers Stalls selling clothes and other wares at Jalan Petaling market

Singapore provides the best
facilities for the disabled, while
Malaysia unfortunately offers
little in the way of assistance.
Many hotels, banks, cinemas,

PRAC TICAL INFORMATION 323

Arm wrestling between a tourist and a local DIRECTORY

carry your own, as it tends to be mosques, and other religious Embassies
improperly stored. It is worth places, as well as in Muslim
using photographic services, such areas or homes. Non-Muslim Australia
as film processing, before heading women may be forbidden to Kuala Lumpur. Tel (03) 2146-5555.
home. It is also easy and cheap enter mosques in some places. ∑ australia.org.my
to get images on a memory Singapore. Tel 6836-4100.
card transferred onto a DVD and Language ∑ australia.org.sg
to get prints from digital images.
Bahasa Malayu, which means Canada
Social Customs Malay language, is the official Kuala Lumpur. Tel (03) 2718-3333.
language of Malaysia and ∑ malaysia.gc.ca
The majority of the Malaysian Brunei. In Singapore, English Singapore. Tel 6854-5900.
population is conservative, but and Mandarin are also widely ∑ singapore.gc.ca
visitors will find most social cus- spoken, though visitors may
toms flexible and generally easy also hear Tamil, Cantonese, New Zealand
to comply with. Loud behavior is Hindi, or any number of Kuala Lumpur. Tel (03) 2078-2533.
considered rude. As a rule, do indigenous languages that are ∑ nzembassy.com
not point at people or objects still used by the multi-ethnic Singapore. Tel 6235-9966.
using the index finger; instead population. Visitors who learn ∑ nzembassy.com
indicate with the thumb or the even a few Malay phrases will
whole hand. Although men endear themselves to their hosts. UK
shake hands, wait for a hand to Kuala Lumpur. Tel (03) 2170-2200.
be offered. Also note that in Conversion Chart ∑ www.gov.uk/foreign-travel-
Muslim company it is impolite to advice/malaysia
touch people with the left hand Malaysia, Singapore, and Brunei Singapore. Tel 6424-4200.
or on the head. Public displays of use the metric system for ∑ www.gov.uk/government/
affection such as hugging and weights and measures. world/singapore
kissing are also frowned upon. Imperial to Metric
Topless sunbathing and nudity 1 inch = 2.5 centimeters USA
on beaches are taboo. 1 foot = 30 centimeters Kuala Lumpur. Tel (03) 2168-5000.
1 mile = 1.6 kilometers ∑ malaysia.usembassy.gov
Before entering a Malaysian 1 ounce = 28 grams Singapore. Tel 6476-9100.
home, visitors should take their 1 pound = 454 grams ∑ singapore.usembassy.gov
shoes off. Never help yourself to 1 US pint = 0.473 liter
food without it being offered first 1 US quart = 0.947 liter Visas and Passports
and avoid eating with the left hand. 1 US gallon = 3.6 liters
Metric to Imperial Ministry of Foreign Affairs
While most big cities have a 1 centimeter = 0.4 inch ∑ kln.gov.my
modern outlook in terms of 1 meter = 3 feet 3 inches
fashion, Muslim women still 1 kilometer = 0.6 mile Visitor Information
dress conservatively. Care must 1 gram = 0.04 ounce
be taken to dress modestly, with 1 liter = 2.1 US pints Sabah Tourism Board
arms and legs covered, when ∑ sabahtourism.com
visiting rural areas, temples,
Sarawak Tourism Board
∑ sarawaktourism.com

Singapore Tourism Board
∑ visitsingapore.com

Tourism Brunei
∑ tourismbrunei.com

Tourism Malaysia
∑ tourism.gov.my

Disabled Travelers

Global Access News
∑ globalaccessnews.com

Gay and Lesbian
Travelers

Utopia
∑ utopia-asia.com

324 SURVIVAL GUIDE

Personal Security and Health contact your embassy or
consulate in order to obtain a
Malaysia, Singapore, and Brunei are all relatively safe to travel replacement (see p323).
in as crime rates are low, though petty crime is on the rise in
Kuala Lumpur. The same common-sense safety rules apply Narcotics
here as anywhere else: be vigilant, especially in tourist hotspots
where pickpockets and bag-snatchers may operate. However, Malaysia and Singapore are
Sabah’s eastern coast and islands have been subject to travel very strict when it comes to
warnings issued by both the US State Department and British penalties for possessing or
Foreign Office, after kidnappings. Check current advisories on smuggling narcotics, and
your government’s website before travel to this area. anyone caught carrying them
can expect either a long time
in prison or possibly the death
sentence. Brunei, too, carries
the death penalty for drug
trafficking.

Singapore policeman and a patrol car Health Precautions

Police belt beneath clothing to Standards of health and
hygiene are high in Malaysia
Most visitors never have prevent the risk of pick- and Singapore. No inoculations
are necessary, unless you have
cause for dealings with the pocketing. Valuables such as recently visited countries
where yellow fever is prevalent.
police, unless reporting a theft cameras and mobile phones If so, you will need to show
proof of vaccination on arrival.
or loss. In Malaysia, areas with should be hidden from view. In
Most areas of Malaysia
large numbers of tourists Kuala Lumpur, it is becoming have no risk of malaria. There
is a risk of malaria in deep
are also patrolled by special quite common for thieves on hinterland areas of Sabah and
Sarawak and in Temara Negara
tourist police who offer motorcycles to grab bags and National Park in Peninsular
Malaysia. There is low to no risk
extra protection. phones so be aware of your of malaria in Kuala Lumpur and
other urban/suburban areas
Singapore has strict laws that surrounds. Avoid walking along and coastal regions.

prohibit smoking in public dimly lit streets after dark or Dengue fever, which is also
transmitted by mosquitoes,
places, littering, and even leaving purses unattended. is an increasing problem. It
causes high fever, joint pain,
chewing gum, for which steep It is a good idea to have and headaches, usually running
its course in one week to 10
fines ranging from S$50– photocopies of your travel days. There is no vaccine for it,
but a checkup is recommended
1,000 are imposed. The insurance papers, passport, to avoid any complications.

police here are particularly and documents, in case of The most common problem
for travelers is diarrhea and
vigilant. Although some- theft or loss (see below). stomach upsets caused by a
change in diet, water, and
times tourists may be climate. To reduce the risk of
diarrhea, drink only bottled or
let off with a warning Lost and Stolen boiled water, avoid ice in drinks
for these offences, it Property and raw food, and eat only in
is best to respect clean places.

local laws. If you are robbed, The greatest danger of
traveling to the tropics is the
report the theft heat, which can easily cause
dehydration and sunburn.
General immediately to the Drink plenty of water, stay in
Precautions local police station. A the shade, and protect yourself
police report will be from direct sunlight with a hat,
sunscreen, and sunglasses. The
While traveling in the necessary to make an tropical climate can play havoc

region is relatively safe, insurance claim later. Lost

some basic precautions or stolen credit cards and

should be followed. Avoid traveler’s checks must be

carrying large sums of reported to the issuing

money or wearing bank to prevent with-

expensive jewelry; leave drawals and cards must

them in your hotel safe. be canceled thereafter

Keep money and Tourist police in for replacements. If a

passports in a money Malaysia passport is lost or stolen,

PRAC TICAL INFORMATION 325

and Prince Court Medical DIRECTORY
Centre among the best, reliable
medical care can be difficult to Emergencies
find in rural areas. Brunei has
adequate health care facilities Brunei
but serious health problems Ambulance Tel 991.
are better treated in Singapore, Fire Tel 995.
which has world-class medical Police Tel 993.
facilities. Major hospitals here
include Raffles Hospital and Malaysia
Singapore General. Ambulance Tel 999.
Fire Tel 994.
A private hospital in Singapore, a country Pharmacies Police Tel 999.
with superb health care
Even the smallest towns in Singapore
with open cuts and burns, so Malaysia have well-stocked Ambulance and fire Tel 995.
treat these immediately. Bring pharmacies. The Guardian Police Tel 999.
a well-stocked medical kit to Pharmacy has a large number
help tackle minor problems. If a of outlets in Malaysia and Health Precautions
problem persists, seek medical Singapore. Another well-known
advice immediately. pharmacy in Singapore is the Malaysia Medical
Changi General Hospital Association
Hospitals and Medical Pharmacy. Medication may be ∑ mma.org.my
Treatment bought over the counter in
Malaysia without a doctor’s World Health Organization
All large towns in Malaysia have prescription, but that is not ∑ who.int/ith
a district hospital as well as possible in Singapore. When
private clinics. Most are clean traveling, be sure to carry Hospitals and Medical
and all doctors speak some a good supply of your Treatment
English. Private clinics catering prescription medicines.
specifically for expatriates and Gleneagles Medical Center
tourists are usually more Travel and Health 282 Jalan Ampang, Kuala Lumpur.
expensive than local facilities. Insurance Tel (03) 4141-3000.
Private hospitals in both ∑ gleneagleskl.com.my
Malaysia and Singapore are It is essential to take out
popular destinations for travel insurance before Prince Court Medical Centre
medical tourism thanks to their traveling to the region. Ensure 39 Jalan Kia Peng, Kuala Lumpur.
keen pricing compared with that it covers you for injury, Tel (03) 2160-0000.
other countries. sickness, accident, emergency ∑ princecourt.com
hospital treatment, and
While amenities in the major repatriation as well as medical Raffles Hospital
cities are well developed, with assistance. You will need extra 585 North Bridge Road,
hospitals in Kuala Lumpur such coverage if you participate in Singapore.
as Gleneagles Medical Center high-risk activities such as Map 3 E4.
diving or mountain climbing. Tel 6311-1111.
∑ rafflesmedicalgroup.com

Singapore General
4 Outram Road.
Map 4 A3.
Tel 6222-3322.

Pharmacies

Changi General Hospital
Pharmacy
2 Simei Street 3, Singapore.
Tel 6850-1888.
∑ mypharmacy.com.sg

Guardian Pharmacy
Lot 89 & 91, Jalan Bukit Bintang,
Kuala Lumpur.
Map 6 D2.
Tel (03) 2145-7553.
∑ guardian.com.my

313 Orchard Road, Singapore.
Map 1 F2.
Tel 6338-0813.
∑ guardian.com.sg

Ambulance in Singapore

326 SURVIVAL GUIDE

Banking and Currency major banks. Lost or stolen
traveler’s checks and credit
Banks are generally easy to find in Malaysia, Singapore, and cards must be reported to
Brunei. Commercial and merchant banks freely allow non- the issuer.
residents to open foreign currency accounts without too many
restrictions on the movement of funds through these accounts. Currency
Visitors can bring any amount of foreign currency into or out
of Malaysia or Singapore, although it must be declared at The Malaysian unit of currency
customs. However, there is a limit of the equivalent of is the ringgit, denoted by RM
US$10,000 in ringgit allowed into or out of Malaysia. before the price of an item.
Locals often refer to it, rather
confusingly, as dollars. It is
further divided into 100 sen
although tourists are unlikely to
need these small denomin-
ation coins unless shopping
in a local market. In Singapore,
the unit of currency is the
Singapore dollar, written S$,
which is made up of 100 cents.
The Brunei dollar is at par with
the Singapore dollar and is
legal tender in Singapore.

Citibank, one of the many international banks in Singapore DIRECTORY

Banks favorable than at banks. Licensed Banks
money changers generally stay
Maybank is Malaysia’s largest open until 6pm and often offer Citibank
bank. International banks, such the best rates. Exchange facilities Menara Citibank,165 Jalan
as Citibank and HSBC, are also can be difficult to find in remote Ampang, Kuala Lumpur.
established in all three coun- areas, especially in Sarawak and Tel (03) 2383-8585.
tries. Malaysian banking hours Sabah, so carry adequate cash ∑ citibank.com.my
are from 9:30am to 4pm from at all times. 40A Orchard Road 01-00,
Monday to Friday and 9:30 to Singapore. Map 1 F2.
11:30am on Saturday. In the ATMs Tel 6225-5225.
Muslim states of Kedah, ∑ citibank.com.sg.
Terengganu, and Kelantan, Automatic teller machines
however, the banks are open (ATMs) are now ubiquitous in HSBC
from 9:30am to 4pm from Malaysia, except in the more ∑ hsbc.com.my
Saturday to Wednesday, and isolated areas, and have long ∑ hsbc.com.sg
from 9:30 to 11am on Thursday; been so in Singapore. ATMs only
they remain closed on Friday. issue the currency of the Maybank
Banks in Singapore are open respective country, and there is 3rd Floor (West Wing),
from 9:30am to 3pm from a daily withdrawal limit of 100 Jalan Tun Perak, Kuala
Monday to Friday, and from around US$800. A fee is levied Lumpur. Map 4 E1. Tel (03) 2074-
9:30 to 11:30am on Saturday. for each transaction, usually 7266. ∑ maybank.com.my
about US$3 on foreign cards. 3 Battery Road, Singapore.
Changing Money Map 5 E3. Tel 6550-7158.
∑ maybank.com.sg
Cash and traveler’s checks can Credit Cards and
be exchanged at large branches Traveler’s Checks Credit Cards and
of all banks for a small service Traveler’s Checks
fee. Most major currencies such Major credit cards can be used
as dollars and euros are easily in most urban and tourist areas, American Express
exchangeable, though outside with VISA and MasterCard Malaysia Tel (0377) 124-314.
the big cities, it can be difficult being the most widely accepted. Singapore Tel 1-800 823-2090.
to exchange other currencies They can also be used at ATMs
such as the Thai baht or the for withdrawals and at major MasterCard
Indonesian rupiah. Top-end banks for cash advances. Malaysia Tel 6209-9288.
hotels will also exchange dollars Traveler’s checks, commonly Singapore Tel +1-636-722-7111.
and some common currencies, issued by American Express
but rates are usually less and VISA, can be exchanged at VISA
Malaysia Tel 1-800 802997
(stolen cards).
Singapore Tel 1-800 448-1250
(stolen cards).

PRAC TICAL INFORMATION 327

Malay Ringgit

Bank notes are issued in denominations
of RM1, RM2, RM5, RM10, RM20, RM50,
and RM100. All notes bear the image of
Malaysia’s first prime minister, Tunku
Abdul Rahman. The ringgit is divided
into 100 sen, available in coins of 1, 5,
10, 20, and 50 sen.

1 ringgit

5 sen 10 sen

20 sen 50 sen 5 ringgit
10 ringgit

20 ringgit

Singapore Dollar 2 dollars

The Singapore dollar is made up of
100 cents, and coins are minted in
denominations of 1 (slowly being
phased out), 5, 10, 20, and 50 cents.
S$1 coins are also circulated.
Singapore dollars are issued in notes
of S$1, S$2, S$5, S$10, S$20, S$50,
S$100, S$500, and S$1,000. There is
a S$10,000 note, but it is rare.

1 cent 5 cents 5 dollars
50 dollars
10 dollars

10 cents 20 cents

50 cents 1 Singapore dollar 100 dollars

328 SURVIVAL GUIDE

Communications and Media many local network companies
offer a certain number of free
The communications network in Malaysia, Singapore, and messages as promotions.
Brunei is fast and efficient, offering a variety of local, national,
and worldwide services. Local and international calls can be Internet Facilities
made from public telephones in all but the smallest of islands.
Cell phone facilities and Internet access are particularly The entire region has fully
impressive, with networks that compete with the best in the embraced the use of the
West. The postal system is reliable and well organized. Internet and cheap Internet
International publications and several locally published access is available even in
English newspapers and magazines are available in big cities. remote locations. Internet
cafés in Malaysia charge by the
cheapest to phone home hour and they can be found
using a VoIP (voice over IP) in the major cities. Rates in
service such as Skype. Singapore are comparable.
Bigger hotels often have
Malaysian phone numbers Internet access in rooms or in
generally consist of six or seven a business center, but this is
digits, except in Kuala Lumpur usually more expensive than
which has eight-digit phone the Internet cafés. Many back-
numbers. All numbers are packer lodges offer free Internet
preceded by a two- or three- access to their guests. For those
digit area code. Phone numbers traveling with laptops and
all across Singapore consist of smartphones, Wi-Fi facilities are
eight digits and there is no area highly advanced in both
code within the country. Singapore and Malaysia. Note
that wall sockets accommodate
Card- and coin-operated SingTel public Cell Phones three-pronged, square-pin
telephone booths in Singapore plugs, and adaptors are easily
Generally, cell phone network available in most big towns.
International and Local coverage is good in Malaysia,
Phone Calls except in the remote regions Postal Services
of Sarawak and Sabah where
Public telephones can be some networks work better Post offices, run by the
found all over Singapore, than others. There is complete Malaysian Postal Service and
Malaysia, and Brunei. They are coverage across Singapore. Singapore Post respectively, are
both phonecard- and coin- Cell phones with international found all over Malaysia and
operated, and most also accept roaming service will auto- Singapore and are generally very
credit cards. Telekom Malaysia matically tune into one of the efficient. Each Malaysian town
is a national operator while local networks, but this service has a General Post Office (GPO)
SingTel is Singapore’s main is very expensive. It is best to with poste restante, as do the
telephone company. Local calls buy a local prepaid SIM card, GPOs in Singapore and Brunei. In
in Malaysia cost 10 sen for such as Maxis, Digi, and Malaysia, post offices are open
unlimited time, and 10 cents for Celcom in Malaysia, or SingTel from 8am to 5pm Monday to
three minutes in Singapore. and M1 in Singapore; these are Friday, and some Saturdays,
Public telephones in all three all widely available and are though in the states of Kedah,
countries offer international inexpensive to buy and top up. Terengganu, and Kelantan they
direct dialing (IDD), and it is best Text messaging is cheap, and close on Friday instead of
to use a phonecard for these Sunday. The opening hours in
calls. Phonecards of several A well-equipped Internet café in Malaysia
companies are available at
petrol stations and convenience
stores, such as 7-Eleven, in
denominations of between RM5
and RM50 in Malaysia, S$2 and
S$50 in Singapore, and B$10
and B$100 in Brunei. Most big
hotels in the region also have
IDD facilities, but this service is
extremely expensive. It will
almost always work out

PRAC TICAL INFORMATION 329

Singapore are from 8am to 6pm Virtual Malaysia magazine, packed with DIRECTORY
Monday to Friday, and from 8am useful information
to 2pm on Saturday. Brunei post Telephone Calls
offices open from 7:45am to and big cities in Malaysia, and Cell Phones
4:30pm Monday to Thursday such as Kuala Lumpur. These
and Saturday, and from 8 to include magazines such as Celcom
11am and 2 to 4pm on Friday. Newsweek and Time and ∑ celcom.com.my
newspapers such as the
Letters and parcels posted International New York Times. Digi
from Malaysian towns usually Both countries have local ∑ digi.com.my
take a week to reach overseas newspapers in English, though
destinations. Anything posted government censorship is M1
from remote places in Sabah strict, and dissenting views are ∑ m1.com.sg
and Sarawak may take a few rarely published. The leading
weeks to reach its destination. English daily in Malaysia is The Maxis
Postcards and aerograms cost Star, besides New Straits Times, ∑ maxis.com.my
50 sen from Malaysia, and 50 The Sun, and The Malay Mail.
cents from Singapore for the These are all good sources of SingTel
same service. Postcards from information for upcoming ∑ singtel.com
Brunei to any destination cost events. In Sabah and Sarawak,
30 cents. Most major post the leading newspapers are Telekom Malaysia
offices in the region have fax New Sabah Times and the ∑ tm.com.my
facilities too. Several well-known Sarawak Tribune. Malaysia also
international courier services publishes some English Postal Services
such as DHL, Federal Express, magazines, including Virtual
and United Parcel Service Malaysia. Singapore’s main DHL
(UPS) operate in both Malaysia English papers are The Straits Malaysia Tel (03) 7964-2800.
and Singapore as do local Times and New Paper, while Singapore Tel 6880-6060.
courier companies such as Borneo’s main newspaper is ∑ dhl.com
Nationwide Express. Borneo Bulletin.
Federal Express
Television and Radio Useful Dialling Codes Malaysia Tel (03) 2179-0370.
Singapore Tel 1 800 743 2626.
Both Malaysia and Singapore • The country code for ∑ fedex.com
have a huge selection of Malaysia is 60; Singapore 65;
international satellite television Brunei 673. Malaysian Postal Service
channels. Terrestrial TV stations ∑ pos.com.my
are closely monitored for signs • To call these countries from
of criticism of the respective abroad, dial your international Nationwide Express
governments. RTM1 and RTM2 access code, the country Malaysia Tel (03) 5512-7000.
are Malaysia’s government-run code, the area code minus Singapore Tel 6285-4223.
TV stations, which broadcast the first 0 (except Singapore),
uncontroversial programs in and the number. Singapore Post
Bahasa Malayu. Commercial ∑ singpost.com.sg
stations such as NTV7 feature • For international calls from
English news, and international Malaysia dial 00, from United Parcel Service
soaps and films. Singapore dial 001, and from Malaysia Tel (03) 7784-1233.
Brunei 01, followed by the Singapore Tel 6883-7000.
Six government-run radio country code, the area code ∑ ups.com/asia
stations air programs in various minus the first 0, and the
languages including English. local number. • Country codes: USA and
Singapore’s television and radio Canada 1; Australia 61; UK 44;
channels offer a mixture of New Zealand 64; France 33.
English, Tamil, Chinese, and
Malay programs. Brunei has • Calls between Malaysia and
five TV channels with many Singapore are considered long-
imported programs and distance, not international calls.
two radio channels.
• For interstate calls in Malaysia
Newspapers and dial the area code followed by
Magazines the number. For calls within a
state, omit the area code.
A wide range of international
publications is available in • For directory enquiries in
most major hotels, bookstores, Malaysia and Singapore, dial
and newsstands in Singapore, 103; in Brunei, dial 0213.

• For the international operator
in Malaysia, dial 108; in
Singapore, dial 104.

330 SURVIVAL GUIDE

TRAVEL INFORMATION

Most overseas visitors to Malaysia as Tigerair in Singapore and AirAsia in
and Singapore arrive at Kuala Lumpur Malaysia, to make short hops within
International Airport (KLIA) and Changi Southeast Asia, as well as long-haul flights
Airport, respectively. Many visitors prefer to Australia, and India. Traveling by rail
to arrive overland taking a train or a bus can be fun, with comfortable sleeper
from Thailand, and a few opt for cruise compartments for long journeys, though
ships. Although most towns in Malaysia the network is limited to a couple of lines.
are well connected by domestic flights Both Singapore and Kuala Lumpur have
and buses, remote areas in Sarawak and good public transport services, such as
Sabah suffer from poor road conditions. the Light Rail Transit (LRT) and the Mass
These days, increasing numbers of Rapid Transport System (MRT), that make
tourists opt for low-cost carriers, such life easy for visitors to these cities.

Budget airline AirAsia, one of several low-cost options July to August, and December
to January, prices soar for flights
Arriving by Air Changi Airports as their from the USA and Europe.

Over 70 international carriers gateways to Southeast Asia, or With over 70 international
carriers using the main airports
connect Singapore and Malaysia as stopover points from Europe there is stiff competition, and it
makes sense to compare rates
to most continents. These to New Zealand and Australia. before booking a flight. For
travelers already in Southeast
include Air Canada, Cathay Both airports are super-modern Asia, it is worth considering
budget airlines such as Tigerair
Pacific, China Airlines, Emirates and well equipped with all the and AirAsia, which offer fares
comparable to those on buses
Airlines, Japan Airlines, Garuda facilities that travelers might and trains. The ticket price is
usually exclusive of international
Indonesia, British Airways, need, such as shops, restaurants, departure tax.

KLM, Qantas, Thai Airways, and and Internet access. KLIA’s Arriving by Land

United Airlines. second terminal, KLIA2, caters Traveling by train is a popular
way to enter Malaysia from
Low-cost carriers such primarily to low-cost airlines Thailand, crossing the border
at Padang Besar, changing at
as AirAsia, Silk Air, Tigerair, and is connected to the main Butterworth for Penang or
continuing to Kuala Lumpur’s
Malindo Air terminal by KL Sentral or Singapore’s
Woodlands Train Checkpoint.
(see p332), and train, which The Eastern & Oriental Express
(E & O), combining luxury with
Firefly offer takes 3 classic sightseeing, covers the
route from Bangkok to
several options minutes. Singapore, passing through

for passengers Airport arrival hall sign Passengers Luxurious interior of the Eastern &
Oriental Express
flying in from arriving at

other countries. There are Changi Airport, 10 miles (16 km)

flights from Singapore to all of from central Singapore, have a

Malaysia’s regional airports. choice of transport to reach the

Malaysia Airlines (MAS) city, including MRT, limousine

and Singapore Airlines, the services, and airport shuttles.

national carriers, are well

connected to most parts of the Air Fares
world. There is a regular service

between Kuala Lumpur and There is a wide range of tickets

Singapore, operated by both available for travel to and

airlines as well as AirAsia and around Singapore and Malaysia,

Tigerair. Many international but the prices vary seasonally.

airlines use either KLIA or During the peak months from

TRAVEL INFORMATION 331

Kuala Lumpur’s KL Sentral. travel regularly between Organized Tours
The main route for buses Singapore, Port Klang, Penang,
and taxis from Thailand is via Pulau Langkawi, and even Phuket The most economical way
Bukit Kayu Hitam at the in Thailand. A ferry link connects to visit Malaysia and Singapore
Malaysian border. A causeway Penang and Melaka on the pen- is by booking a place on an
connects Johor Bahru at the insula with Medan and Dumai in organized tour. A package
southern tip of Malaysia to Sumatra (Indonesia). There are deal usually includes flights,
Singapore. From Pontianak in regular longboat services hotels, road transport, guides,
Kalimantan (Indonesian between Pulau Langkawi and and admission fee to tourist
Borneo), it is possible to enter Satun in South Thailand. Ferries sights for little more than
Sarawak in Malaysian Borneo. and small boats also connect the cost of a flight. Tour
The main terminal in Kuala Singapore to Tanjong Belungkor companies such as Borneo
Lumpur is the Pudu Sentral in the state of Johor in Malaysia. Adventure (see p317) offer
station though more and more exciting itineraries.
long-distance buses are using
Terminal Bersepadu Selatan
(TBS) which is south of the city.
Singapore has many different
bus stations: check in advance
which one you will embark from.

Arriving by Sea A cruise liner docked at Langkawi

Both countries can be reached
by sea. Malaysia has several
authorized entry points. Some
cruise liners, such as Star Cruises,

DIRECTORY

Arriving by Air Emirates Airlines Malaysia Airlines United Airlines
Kuala Lumpur: (MAS) Kuala Lumpur:
AirAsia Tel (03) 6207-4999. Kuala Lumpur: Tel (03) 2161-1433.
Kuala Lumpur. Singapore: Tel 6735-3535. Tel (03) 7846-3000. Singapore: Tel 6873-3533.
∑ airasia.com ∑ emirates.com Singapore: ∑ ual.com
Tel 6336-6777.
Air Canada Firefly ∑ malaysiaairlines. Arriving by Land
Kuala Lumpur: Kuala Lumpur. com
Tel (03) 2148-8596. Tel (03) 7845-4543. E & O Express
Singapore: ∑ fireflyz.com.my Qantas ∑ belmond.com
Tel 6256-1198. Kuala Lumpur:
∑ aircanada.ca Garuda Indonesia Tel (03) 6279-5033. KL Sentral
Kuala Lumpur: Singapore: Kuala Lumpur.
British Airways Tel (03) 2162-2811. Tel 6415-7373. Tel (03) 2279-8888.
Kuala Lumpur: Singapore: Tel 6250-2888. ∑ qantas.com.au
Tel (03) 7712-4747. ∑ garuda-indonesia. Pudu Sentral Bus
Singapore: com Silk Air Station
Tel 6622-1747. Singapore. Kuala Lumpur.
∑ britishairways.com Japan Airlines Tel 6223-8888. Tel (03) 2274-6063.
Kuala Lumpur: ∑ silkair.com
Changi Airport Tel (03) 2161-1722. Woodlands Train
Singapore. Tel 6542-4422. Singapore: Tel 6221-0522. Singapore Airlines Checkpoint
∑ changiairport.com ∑ jal.com Kuala Lumpur: Singapore.
Tel (03) 2692-3122. Tel 6221-3390.
Cathay Pacific Jetstar Singapore:
Kuala Lumpur: Singapore. Tel 6822-2288. Tel 6223-8888. Arriving by Sea
Tel (03) 2035-2777. ∑ jetstar.com ∑ singaporeair.com
Singapore: Star Cruises
Tel 6533-1333. KLIA Thai Airways Malaysia.
∑ cathaypacific.com Kuala Lumpur. Kuala Lumpur: Tel (03) 3103-1313.
Tel (03) 8776-4386. Tel (03) 2031-2900. ∑ starcruises.com
China Airlines ∑ klia.com.my Singapore:
Kuala Lumpur: Tel 1-800 2249-977.
Tel (03) 2148-9417. KLM ∑ thaiair.com
Singapore: Tel 6737-2211. Kuala Lumpur:
∑ china-airlines.com Tel (03) 2711-9811. Tigerair
Singapore: Tel 6737-7622. Singapore.
∑ klm.com Tel 6538-4437.
∑ tigerairways.com

332 SURVIVAL GUIDE

Traveling by Air

Malaysia has a very good network of internal flights, making air Passengers waiting to check in at an
travel a comfortable and convenient way of getting around. airport counter
The national carrier, Malaysia Airlines (MAS), is well connected
to almost all popular tourist destinations. Singapore itself is However, the smaller towns are
too small to require internal flights. With the advent of budget connected in most cases only
airlines, such as the hugely successful AirAsia, the much smaller by the services of MAS Wings.
Malindo Air, Firefly and MAS Wings, the cost of flying has
reduced considerably. Most big towns in Malaysia now have an Flight Network
airport, and it is easy to get tickets either through local travel
agencies or by booking online. Flights are generally punctual, While most major Malaysian
efficient, and inexpensive, which is particularly useful for towns are linked by direct
visitors who want to see as much of the country as possible flights, smaller towns also have
within a limited period of time. connecting networks. Johor
Bahru provides services to
Domestic Airlines (see p330), the largest and most Penang, Ipoh, Kuala Lumpur,
well-connected airport in Kota Bahru, Kuching, Sibu,
Until recently, Malaysia Airlines Malaysia. KLIA2 is the airport’s Miri, Kota Kinabalu, Sandakan,
(see p330) had a virtual mono- low-cost terminal. The airport and Tawau.
poly on all domestic flights connects to KL Sentral via the
throughout Malaysia. The Express Rail Link. Malindo In Malaysian Borneo, while
situation has now changed Air operates some flights from the majority of flights originate
with the arrival of AirAsia (see Skypark Sultan Abdul Aziz Shah in the provincial capitals of
p330) and MAS Wings (a Airport, Kuala Lumpur’s former Kota Kinabalu and Kuching, it is
subsidiary of Malaysia Airlines), international airport. also possible to make short
both of which offer low-cost, hops without returning to the
no-frills flights with limited In Peninsular Malaysia, there original point using the rural
seating space and payment are airports at Ipoh, Penang, air services. Several 19-seater
for in-flight refreshments. Kuala Lumpur, Alor Setar, and 50-seater planes help
AirAsia now flies on long-haul Langkawi, Kota Bharu, Kuantan, maintain communications
international routes, while Kuala Terengganu, and Johor with the remote provinces. A
MAS Wings operates turbo- Bahru. Airports in Sarawak visitor in Sarawak can therefore
propeller plane services in include Kuching, Sibu, Mukah, go from Kuching to Mulu via
Malaysian Borneo. Miri, Bintulu, Belaga, Lawas, Sibu and Miri, or from Kota
Mulu, Ba Kalalan, Long Akah, Kinabalu to Semporna via
Malindo Air flies out of KLIA. Long Banga, Long Lellang, Long Sandakan in Sabah. There
Destinations include several Seridan, Bario, and Limbang. In are also regular direct flights
cities in Malaysia as well as Sabah, there are airports at Kota between both Miri and
India, Thailand and Nepal. Kinabalu, Labuan, Kudat, Mulu in Sarawak and Kota
Sandakan, Lahad Datu, Tawau, Kinabalu in Sabah.
Domestic Airports as well as Semporna.

All Malaysian Airlines domestic The larger airports in all
flights depart from the state- these states are serviced by
of-the-art Kuala Lumpur both MAS and the fast
International Airport (KLIA) expanding network of AirAsia.

MAS Wings offers budget domestic and regional services Tickets and
Reservations

Tickets for flights on any of the
airlines listed in the directory
can be purchased from travel
agents, although these days it
is easier to book online with a
credit card. All airlines permit
online booking through their
websites and e-tickets are the
norm. While there is usually

TRAVEL INFORMATION 333

some flexibility about changing Singapore Airlines before and Sarawak as these regions
dates for reservations with making any reservations. can be difficult and time-
major carriers such as MAS and Passengers arriving by interna- consuming for independent
Singapore Airlines, budget tional flights can also get a travelers to get around in.
airlines do not allow Visit Malaysia pass issued by AD Travel, Asian Overland
rescheduling. Changing the MAS, which entitles them to Services, Borneo Eco Tours,
date of the flight after making a five domestic flights for Crest Travel and Tours,
booking with a budget airline US$199. AirAsia also does a Discovery Tours in Sabah,
requires payment of a penalty similar pass that includes flights Discovery Tours and Travel
or the purchase of a new ticket. to its neighboring ASEAN in Singapore, East West Exe-
countries. The Singapore cutive Travellers, Ezz Travel,
Fares and Special Stopover Holiday offered by Honeyworld Holidays, Planet
Discounts Singapore Airlines includes free Travel, Malaysia Tourism,
bus rides and entry to several STA Travel, Skyzone Tours
With the introduction of attractions as well as special and Travel, Transtar Travel,
budget airlines in Southeast hotel rates and discounts at Pedati Saujana Holidays, Star
Asia, travelers have a wide shopping outlets. Holiday Mart, TDK Travel and
range of travel options. Low- Tours, and TVI Holidays offer
cost carriers connect Malaysia Travel Agencies planned holidays.
with the Middle East and
Australia. Checking in luggage, Both countries have travel Travel agency signboards lining a street in
food, and entertainment cost agents who can assist with Little India, Georgetown
extra. Also, by the time tax and travel arrangements, hotel
fuel surcharges are added, bookings, and guided tours.
flights are no longer as cheap Travel agency staff should be
as they first appear. Potential experts in the region who can
travelers need to weigh the advise you as to where to go
pros and cons of traveling with and where to stay according to
different carriers. It is also your personal requirements.
worth checking promotions Package holidays are a
and offers from MAS and particularly good idea in Sabah

DIRECTORY

Domestic Airlines Crest Travel and Tours Honeyworld Holidays Star Holiday Mart
111 North Bridge Rd, 24 Raffles Place, 29/30 Duxton Road,
Malindo Air 05–08 Peninsula Plaza, Singapore. Singapore. Tel 6735-9009.
∑ malindoair.com Singapore. Tel 6337-9189. Tel 6532-2232. ∑ starmart.com.sg
∑ cresttravel.sg ∑ honeyworld
MAS Wings holidays.com STA Travel
Tel (03) 7843-3000. Discovery Tours 400 Orchard Road,
∑ maswings.com.my Lot G.22, Ground Floor, Malaysia Tourism Singapore. Tel 6737-7188.
Wisma Sabah, Jalan Tun 17th Floor, Putra World ∑ statravel.com.sg
Travel Agencies Fuad Stephens, Kota Trade Center, Jalan Tun
Kinabalu, Sabah. Tel (88) Ismail, Kuala Lumpur. TDK Travel and Tours
AD Travel 257-368. ∑ discovery Tel (03) 2163-0162. B6 Sri Dagangan 2,
112 Jalan Imbi, tours.com.my ∑ tourism.gov.my Kuantan, Pahang Darul.
Kuala Lumpur. Tel (09) 513-4466.
Tel (03) 2148-4999. Discovery Tours and Pedati Saujana ∑ tdktravel.blogspot.hk
∑ adtravel.com.my Travel Holidays
Tel 6733-4333. 2A Bangunan MPSP, Transtar Travel
Asian Overland ∑ discoverytours.com. Kedah Darul Aman. 01–15 Golden Mile
Services sg Tel (04) 425-2052. Complex, Singapore.
39–40 Jalan Mamanda 9, ∑ pedati-saujana.com Tel 6299-9009.
Ampang, Kuala Lumpur. East West Executive ∑ transtar.com.sg
Tel (03) 4252-9100. Travellers Planet Travel
∑ asianoverland. com. 24 Sin Ming Lane, Block 925 Yishun Central TVI Holidays
my 03-105 Midview City, 1, Singapore. 1 Park Road, Singapore.
Singapore. Tel 6336-6811. Tel 6286-9009. Tel 6533-2533.
Borneo Eco Tours ∑ eastwestplanners. ∑ planettravel. com.sg ∑ tviholidays.com
Lot 1, Pusat Perindustrian, com
Kolombong Jaya, Jalan Skyzone Tours and
Kolombong, Kota Ezz Travel Travel
Kinabalu, Sabah. 62E Ground Floor, Lot 3.05–08 Shaw Parade,
Tel (88) 438-300. Jalan Genuang, Segamat, Kuala Lumpur.
Johor. Tel (07) 931-6601. Tel (03) 2141-8588.
∑ ezztravel.com ∑ skyzone.my

334 SURVIVAL GUIDE

Traveling by Train and Boat people who operate the
legendary Venice–Simplon
While domestic flights are cheap and convenient for visitors Orient Express, it offers similar
with limited time, boat and train travel offers travelers a sense five-star service and standards.
of the geographical variety and richness of Malaysia and The train runs a couple of times
Singapore. The railroad connects many major towns in a month between Singapore
Peninsular Malaysia, while visitors to Sabah can experience and Bangkok, and the journey
rail travel on a short stretch from Kota Kinabalu to Tenom. A takes 3 days/2 nights. Traveling
range of boats is available to tourists, from dugout canoes to in the reverse direction,
luxury cruise liners. Many, such as the ekspres boats of Bangkok to Singapore, takes
Sarawak, have a distinctive character found nowhere else in 4 days/3 nights. The high prices
Malaysia. Boat and train journeys take longer than flights and include a private sleeper, meals,
are suitable for travelers on an extended holiday. a visit to the Bridge on the
River Kwai, and a brief tour
of Georgetown in Penang.
Travelers have high praise
for the bygone glamor and
unique experience offered by
the company – for many,
it’s a once-in-a-lifetime trip.

KTM Komuter train at a Malaysian station In Borneo, the only railroad line Train Tickets, Fares, and
is in Sabah, and visitors can ride Reservations
Railroad Network the short stretch from Kota
Kinabalu to Tenom, passing Tickets can be purchased at all
The Malaysian railroad system, through the long gorge of the mainline stations, through the
Keretapi Tanah Melayu Berhad Sungai Padas (see p187). KTM website, or from travel
(KTM), is a modern, economical, agents. Fares for first-class travel
and comfortable mode of Construction of a high-speed are about double the price of
transport. The railroad was the rail link between Kuala Lumpur second class, which is
only way to get around the and Singapore is expected to approximately double that of
country before the construction start in 2016; this should cut the third class. Sleeping berths are
of the peninsula’s road network, journey time to 90 minutes available for a small charge in
and many of the stations in the from the current 8 hours. addition to the basic fare.
interior still retain their original
colonial architecture. Trains Tourist rail passes offering
unlimited train travel are also
The network consists of two There are two types of trains: available. Visitors can pay US$35
main lines, with a few minor express trains that stop only at for 5 days, US$55 for 10 days,
branches running down to the the main stations, and the and US$70 for 15 days. The
west coast. From its starting slower and cheaper local trains passes are discounted by almost
point in Singapore, the West that also stop at smaller stations. 50 percent for children. The fare
Coast line heads north to Kuala Express trains usually consist of from Singapore to Bangkok on
Lumpur, then on to Ipoh and first and second class, while the luxurious E & O Express is
Butterworth, before finally local trains are generally third US$2,280.
connecting at the border town class. All first- and second-class
of Padang Besar with Thai carriages have sleeper berths on Advance booking is advisable
Railways. overnight trains; they have air for express trains if a sleeping
conditioning, which is generally berth is required.
The second route is the East very cold, making a jacket or
Coast line, popularly known as blanket a necessity. Ticket barrier at a platform in Kuala Lumpur
The Jungle Railway (see p155).
Branching off the West Coast In a class of its own is the
line at Gemas, about 37 miles Eastern & Oriental Express
(60 km) northeast of Melaka, it (E & O). Run by the same
heads north through Kuala Lipis
to Tumpat on the northeast
coast near the Thai border.

TRAVEL INFORMATION 335

Passengers boarding ferries on the Batang Rajang DIRECTORY

Boat Facilities, Services, Langkawi from Penang, and Railroad Stations
and Fares hourly services both from Kuala
Kedah and Kuala Perlis. Regular Alor Star
With regular services to ferries run between Lumut and Tel (04) 731-4045.
popular destinations, boats and Pulau Pangkor.
ferries are among the most Butterworth
popular ways to get to riverside On the east coast, there are Tel (04) 323-7962.
towns and offshore islands. several daily ferries from Merang
Most traditional bumboats to Pulau Redang and from Kuala Gemas
have been replaced by faster Besut to the Perhentian Islands. Tel (07) 948-2863.
and sleeker ekpres boats that Visitors to Pulao Tioman can get
offer basic seating with a ferry from Mersing in Malaysia. Ipoh
canopies for protection from There are no boat services Tel (05) 254-0481.
the elements. Since they are connecting Peninsular Malaysia
intended to be used only for with Malaysian Borneo. Johor Bahru
short journeys, there are Tel (07) 223-4727.
usually no toilets or facilities In Sarawak, longboats and
for buying refreshments. ekpres boats are the principal Klang
methods of travel. They link Tel (03) 3371-9917.
Although most boats are Kuching with Sibu, Kapit, and
quite modern, safety pre- Belaga along Batang Rajang, Kuala Lipis
cautions can be somewhat while in the north of the prov- Tel (09) 312-1341.
lax, with some operators ince, they are the main modes
overloading their vessels or of transport along Sungai Kuala Lumpur Sentral
not insisting on the use of life Baram. While there are no river- Tel (03) 2730-2000.
jackets. Services are also likely boat services in Sabah, a regular
to be temporarily suspended ferry runs between Menumbok Padang Besar
due to inclement weather and Pulau Labuan. Tel (04) 949-0231.
during the monsoon.
Visitors to Singapore can Pasir Mas
Boat fares vary according to enjoy a cruise on a traditional Tel (09) 790-9025.
the length of the journey and bumboat along the Singapore
the condition of the vessel, but River or around the southern Singapore
an average hour-long journey islands. Several companies Tel 6222-5165.
costs about RM15. Advance organize these cruises, including
booking for tickets is not Riverboat Cruises, Singapore Tumpat
required, and payment can be River Cruise, Singapore River Tel (09) 725-7232.
made at the jetty or on board. Explorer, Singapore Island
Cruises, and Sindo Ferry. Railroad Network

Boat Routes and Keretapi Tanah Melayu
Cruises Berhad (KTM)
Tel (03) 2267-1200.
In Malaysia, many major towns ∑ ktmb.com.my
along the coasts and along
rivers are connected by ferry, or Trains
ekspres boats. On the west coast
of the peninsula, Butterworth is Eastern & Oriental Express
linked to Pulau Penang by a car (E & O)
ferry, which remains popular ∑ belmond.com
despite the existence of a road
bridge between the mainland Singapore Cruises
and the island. There is a twice-
daily ferry service to Pulau Riverboat Cruises
∑ rivercruise.com.sg

Sindo Ferry
∑ sindoferry.com.sg

Singapore Island Cruises
∑ islandcruise.com.sg

Singapore River Cruise
∑ rivercruise.com.sg

Singapore River Explorer
∑ riverexplorer.sg

Passengers purchasing tickets at a
ferry port

336 SURVIVAL GUIDE

Traveling by Road that long-distance bus terminals
are often on the outskirts of a
The roads in Malaysia and Singapore are generally in very town, requiring a local bus or taxi

good condition and the network is comprehensive, making it ride to get there, and that long-
easy to get around. There is an extensive and inexpensive bus distance buses tend to set out in
system, and both state-run and private companies operate the early morning or evening.

services that connect many major towns in Malaysian Borneo
and most towns on the peninsula, with good connections to Bus Tickets and Fares

Singapore as well. Long-distance taxis are a good option for It is a good idea to reserve

group travel, while car hire is reasonably priced and a good tickets a day ahead, especially
alternative for those who prefer flexible itineraries. during public holidays when
many locals are traveling. Most

people buy their tickets at the

bus company office located at

each bus station just before

boarding, but to guarantee a

place, you can book tickets up

to one month ahead on www.

easybook.com for bus travel on

many different operators across

Malaysia and between Malaysia

and Singapore. Departure times

are displayed on a placard in

Long-distance luxury buses run by Transnasional front of the office. Fares are rea-

Road Network Long-Distance Buses sonable and depend on the
comfort provided by the bus.

Peninsular Malaysia’s road Traveling around Malaysia by bus

network is excellent, offering is fast, comfortable, and cheap. Long-Distance Taxis
one of the best ways of Several private operators,

exploring the country. The main including Plusliner and Long-distance taxis or share taxis

road that runs along the Transnasional, run air- are worth considering, especially

peninsula is the North–South conditioned luxury buses when traveling in groups of

Highway, a six-lane toll road between major towns. Buses three or four. Solo travelers will

between Johor Bahru in the linking smaller towns make need to wait until the driver

south and the Thai border. more stops and are not all has a full complement of

Route 8 goes up the east coast, air-conditioned. In rural four passengers, as these

linking Bentong, near Kuala areas, regular buses are taxis operate on a shared-

Lumpur, with Kota Bharu in the replaced by minibuses or cost basis. The waiting time

north. Route 4 and Route 145 converted pick-up trucks. is usually not long, and is

connect the east and west Other major bus operators shorter early in the morning.

coasts of the peninsula. Various include Sri Maju, Transtar, It is also possible to charter

other roads connect towns in Aeroline, Hasry Express, the whole taxi for the

the interior. Biaramas, Tung Ma Express, price of four single fares.

Due to the rugged terrain, the and Dyana Express. There is usually a long-

network in Malaysian Borneo is There are bus services to distance taxi stand right

limited. In Sarawak the only Singapore from several Taxi stand next to the long-distance

long-distance road runs up the Malaysian towns, including sign bus station in each town,

coast between Kuching and Kuala Lumpur, Melaka, Ipoh, with fares for various

Miri, although there are and Penang. Buses from Malaysia destinations posted on a board.

numerous good roads around stop at Golden Mile Complex, Taxi fares are about double the

Kuching itself. Sabah has a Kovan Hub, Boon Lay Shopping bus fare, but the service is much

comparatively weak network, Centre, The Plaza Beach Road, quicker. Night journeys may

especially the roads in the and Golden Mile Tower. Note have an additional fare.

interior; however, the road

heading north and south

along the coast from Kota

Kinabalu is good.

Malaysia has two land bridge

connections with Singapore – a

causeway between Johor Bahru

and Singapore and a second

link between Tuas in Singapore

and Geylang Patah in Malaysia. A long-distance taxi

TRAVEL INFORMATION 337

Car and Motorbike Motorbikes lined up for hire outside cheaper rates. While renting
Rentals a rental agency from a local firm may be tempt-
ing, it could be a problem if the
Renting a car offers travelers the out rarely ask to see a license. vehicle breaks down far from
freedom to change their travel If you do not have a license, the rental office and the com-
plans at will. Rental agencies however, your insurance is invalid. pany has no local backup, so
usually require that drivers be Rental rates are reasonable, and enquire about their network
over 23 years of age. Overseas this can be a good way of explor- before signing a deal. Visitors
visitors will need a license ing islands, such as Pulau Penang should note that 4WD vehicles
written in English script. and Pulau Langkawi, or attractions for rent are scarce, so those
on the outskirts of cities. heading for the hills should
Car hire rates are higher in employ a reliable tour operator
Malaysian Borneo than on the All major rental agencies, who can provide an appropriate
peninsula. While insurance is including Budget, Hertz, Avis, vehicle with a driver.
generally included in the price, it and Thrifty are represented,
is wise to spend extra for along with local agencies, such Rules of the Road
Collision Damage Waiver (CDW) as Mayflower, Orix, Hornbill,
insurance, which covers costs Pronto, Extra, Kinabalu, and Vehicles drive on the left in
resulting from accidents. Even Popular, which sometimes offer both Singapore and Malaysia.
better, buy a rental excess The use of seat belts is obliga-
insurance policy ahead of time in tory, and within cities, the
your home country. Renting a speed limit is 31 mph (50
car in Singapore costs more than km/h). Most road signs are self-
in Malaysia, with rental and fuel explanatory, except for the
costing almost double. There are ubiquitous awas in Malaysia,
also surcharges for driving hired meaning “be careful.”There are
cars from Malaysia to Singapore heavy penalties in both
and vice versa. countries for those convicted
of drinking and driving.
Hiring a motorbike is less
formal, and the guesthouse
owners or shops who rent them

DIRECTORY

Long-Distance Sri Maju Extra Mayflower
Buses Nos. 2, 4, & 6, Beverley Hotel, Mayflower Building,
Jalan Bendahara, Ipoh, Jalan Kemajuan, Kota Kuala Lumpur.
Aeroline Malaysia. Tel (05) 253- Kinabalu, Malaysia. Tel (03) 6252-1888.
Kuala Lumpur: 5367. ∑ srimaju.com Tel (088) 218-160. ∑ mayflower carrental.
Tel (03) 6258-8800. ∑ e-erac-online.com com.my
Singapore: Transnasional
Tel 6733-7010. Kuala Lumpur. Hertz Orix
∑ aeroline.com.my Tel (03) 4047-7878. B10, Terminal Building, Counter C2, Arrival
∑ transnasional. KLIA, Malaysia. Level, Main Terminal
Biaramas com.my Tel (03) 8776-4507. Building, KLIA, Malaysia.
Lot 2922 & 2923, ∑ hertz-malaysia.com Tel (03) 8787-4294.
Jalan Datuk Tawi Sli, Transtar ∑ orixauto.com.my
Kuching, Singapore. Tel 6299-9009. 15 Scotts Road,
Malaysia. ∑ transtar.com.sg Thong-Teck Building, Popular
Tel (082) 456-999. Singapore. 501 Guillemard Road,
∑ easybus.com Tung Ma Express Map 1 F2. Singapore. Tel 6742-8888.
Jalan Padang, Kota Tel 6734-4646. ∑ hertz. ∑ popularcar.com
Dyana Express Kinabalu, Malaysia. com
Northern Bus Terminal, Tel (019) 882-7334. Pronto
Kota Kinabalu. Hornbill No. 98, Jalan Padungan,
Tel (088) 389-997. Car and Motorbike Lot 99, Jalan Datuk Kuching, Malaysia.
Rentals Abang Abdul Rahim, Tel (082) 237-889.
Hasry Express Kuching, Malaysia. ∑ prontocarrental.com
Cnr Lavender St & Kallang Avis Tel (082) 343-489.
Bahru Rd, Singapore. B-16, Main Terminal, ∑ hbcrsb@streamyx. Thrifty
Tel 6294-9306. KLIA, Malaysia. com 20 Changi North
∑ easybus.com Tel (03) 9222-2558. Crescent, Singapore.
Terminal 2, Singapore. Kinabalu Tel 6741-6222.
Plusliner Tel 6542-8855. Karamunsing Complex, ∑ thrifty.rentals.
Kuala Lumpur: ∑ avis.com Kota Kinabalu, com.sg
Tel (03) 2274-0499. Malaysia.
Singapore: Budget Tel (088) 232-602.
Tel 6256-5755. Tel 1-800 801-563. ∑ kinabalurac.com.my
∑ plusliner.com.my ∑ budget.com

338 SURVIVAL GUIDE

Getting around KL & Singapore

Both Kuala Lumpur and Singapore are relatively easy to get Fully air-conditioned MRT train traveling on
around, as there is a variety of transport methods at a visitor’s an elevated track
disposal. The Light Rail Transit (LRT) and Mass Rapid Transit
(MRT) metro systems are swift and efficient. Bus lines cover
both cities quite thoroughly, and metered taxis are
convenient and easy to find. Though traffic in KL is a growing
problem,some trishaws, or three-wheeled bicycle taxis, still
ply the streets offering fun but expensive rides for tourists.
The most enjoyable way of getting around is walking, if you
can cope with the heat, but, while Singapore is pedestrian-
friendly, Kuala Lumpur is not easy to walk around.

Pedestrians window-shopping in Kuala conducive to strolling around or ticket counter at the airport.
Lumpur’s Chinatown window-shopping, especially Singapore’s MRT is often
around Chinatown. The hot and acclaimed as the best metro in
humid climate of both cities the world because of its clean
requires precautions such as carriages, speedy service, and
using sunblock, carrying low prices. The most convenient
enough drinking water, and way to pay is the stored-value
limiting walks to a few hours to ticket, called an EZ-link card
avoid exhaustion. If you have worth S$12, which includes a S$5
an iPhone, the handy app deposit and is valid on all MRT,
GoThere.sg tells you how to get LRT, and bus journeys. Any credit
to any destination in Singapore on the card can be reclaimed at a
on foot or by taxi, train, or bus. card outlet on departure. Tourist
day tickets can be bought for
Walking Metros 1–3 days of unlimited travel
Tickets can be purchased online,
All the main areas of interest in In Kuala Lumpur the LRT is a fast at MRT stations and Singapore
Kuala Lumpur, such as the and economical way of getting visitor centers. Smoking, eating,
colonial district, Chinatown, and around the city, with trains and drinking are prohibited on
Little India, are close together arriving every 5 to 15 minutes the MRT.
and can easily be covered on between 6am and 11:20pm. It is
foot. However, as six-lane roads possible to pay for a single trip, Buses
and flyovers divide Kuala Lumpur but it is better to get a myrapid
into sections unconnected by card if you are staying a few Kuala Lumpur is well served by
sidewalks, strolling beyond these days; this stored-value ticket can buses, which run at close
areas is unviable. Traffic is fast- also be used on Rapid KL buses intervals between 6am and
moving and heavy, so visitors and the monorail. For tourists, 11pm, although poor signage
should always be alert. the KL Travel Pass includes the and problems with route infor-
KLIA Ekspres from the airport mation can occasionally cause
The situation is better in and all trains and buses in the visitors some confusion. One of
Singapore. The city center is city. Buy it at the KL Ekspres the most useful services for
pedestrian-friendly and tourists is the Go-KL free shuttle
buses that criss-cross the city
Passengers waiting to board a city bus in Kuala Lumpur linking many downtown
locations. There are 65 stops in
total, on four lines.

In Singapore there are two
major bus companies, SBS
Transit and SMRT, who also run
train and taxi services. As on the
MRT, the easiest way to pay the
fare is the EZ-link card, which
must be tapped against a
machine when boarding and
leaving the bus. If paying by
cash, on boarding the bus drop
the exact fare in the box as no
change is given.

TRAVEL INFORMATION 339

Taxis The enormous Petronas Towers, one of the DIRECTORY
highlights of a city tour
Taxis can be particularly useful Buses
when arriving in an unknown Towers, the Royal Palace,
city. In Kuala Lumpur, red and Chinatown, the Lake Gardens, Rapid KL
white taxis charge an initial fare of and the National Museum, there No.1 Jalan PJU 1A/46, Petaling
RM3 for the first mile, and 10 are walking tours, architectural Jaya, Selangor, Malaysia.
cents for every 220 yards (200 m) tours, and museum tours. Tour Tel 1-800 388-228.
thereafter. Drivers often decline East, Kuala Lumpur Travel Tour, ∑ rapidkl.com.my
to use the meter with tourists, and Tours by Locals offer a
and try to agree on a fixed fare variety of engaging tour SBS Transit
that is inevitably higher than the options. Food Tour Malaysia 205 Braddell Road, Singapore.
meter rate. It is wise to confirm devises mouthwatering daytime Tel 1-800 287-2727.
the usual fare for a planned jour- and evening excursions. ∑ sbstransit.com.sg
ney with your hotel before
setting out. Most fares in the city In Singapore tours usually SMRT
should be RM15, but 50 percent take in Orchard Road, Little Singapore.
extra is charged after midnight. If India, and Chinatown, though Tel 1-800 336-8900.
traveling from KL Sentral or the specialist tours are also available, ∑ smrt.com.sg
airport, a coupon system is in covering themes such as World
place to avoid scams. War II sights, Asian cuisine, and Taxis
Singapore’s throbbing nightlife.
Taxis are plentiful on the For a more personalized tour, Blue Cab
streets of Singapore. They have with a tailor-made itinerary, it is Kuala Lumpur.
a flag fare of S$3 for the first best to contact the Registered Tel (03) 8948-2193.
kilometer, and 20 cents for every Tourist Guides Association of
400 meters. There are, however, Singapore. Holiday Tours, RMG City Cab
provisions for surcharges. SBS Tours, and SH Tours also Singapore.
Transit, Comfort Cabs, Blue Cab, organize packaged excursions Tel 6552-111.
City Cab, and Smart are among of Singapore.
the taxi service providers here. Comfort Cabs
The apps MyTeksi and GrabTaxi Kuala Lumpur.
are local alternatives to Uber. Tel (03) 8024-0507.

Organized Tours SBS Transit
Singapore.
Taking an organized tour is the Tel 6555-8888.
ideal way of seeing a city’s
major sights in relative comfort, Smart
and there are plenty of Singapore.
companies that offer such tours Tel 6485-7777.
in both Kuala Lumpur and
Singapore. In Kuala Lumpur, Organized Tours
apart from grand full-day tours
or 3-hour city highlight tours, Food Tour Malaysia
which take in the Petronas ∑ foodtourmalaysia.com

Taxi, Kuala Lumpur Holiday Tours
Singapore. Tel 6738-2622.
Taxi, Singapore
Kuala Lumpur Travel Tour
Kuala Lumpur.
Tel (01) 7633-0062.
∑ kualalumpurtraveltour.com

Registered Tourist Guides
Association of Singapore
Singapore.
Tel 6339-2114.

RMG Tours
Singapore.
Tel 6220-1661.

SH Tours
Singapore.
Tel 6734-9923.

Tour East
Kuala Lumpur.
Tel (04) 227-4522.
∑ toureast.net

Tours by Locals
∑ toursbylocals.com

340 GENERAL INDEX

General Index

Page numbers in bold refer to main Architecture (cont.) Beekeeping 188
entries. Raffles Place (Singapore) 227 Belaga (Sarawak) 158, 171
Rumuh Penghulu Abu Seman Betel nuts 131
100 Cintra Street (Georgetown) 13, (Kuala Lumpur) 81 Bidayuh tribe 27, 167
110 secular 32–3 Bidwell, J. 241
Sultan Abdul Samad Building Bintulu (Sarawak) 172
A (Kuala Lumpur) 47, 60, 66, 68
see also Longhouses; Mansions; hotels 281
Abdul Hamid Halim Shah, Sultan 44 Palaces; Shophouses restaurants 296
Abdul Jalil, Sultan 102 Birch, J.W.W. 47, 100
Abdullah Ahmad Badawi 51 Armenian Church (Singapore) 222–3 Bird (Botero) 227
Abdullah, Rajah 82, 83 Arnold, Dr. Joseph 186 Birdlife 55, 97, 249, 316, 317
Aceh 42 Art 11, 308 Jurong Bird Park (Singapore) 14,
Admission charges 321 Arts and crafts 36–7 242, 243, 245
Ahmad, Sultan 152 Langkawi Birds Paradise (Pulau
Air travel 330, 331 Islamic 29 Langkawi) 119
see also Museums and galleries Loagan Bunut National Park
domestic 332–3 Asian Civilisations Museum (Sarawak) 175
Alatas, Syed Mohammed 108 (Singapore) 12, 216 Taman Negara National Park 12, 60,
Alauddin Riyat Shah 42 Aspinall, George 249 144–5
Albuquerque, Adm Alfonso de 42, 128 Association of Southeast Asian Boat Quay (Singapore) 209, 211, 227
Alcohol 284–5 Nations (ASEAN) 50 Boat travel 144, 335
Ali Iskander Shah, Sultan 232, 234 Astana (Kuching) 163 Boatbuilding 149
Alliance Party 51 ATMs 326 Borneo 58, 60
Alor Star (Kedah) 117 Aw brothers 248 history 43, 46, 48
Ayutthaya kingdom 40 itinerary 11
hotels 279 Azlan Shah, Sultan 103 see also Sabah; Sarawak
restaurants 292 Borneo Cultural Festival 58
Anglo-Dutch Treaty (1824) 43, 46 B Botero, Fernando 227
Anglo-Siamese Treaty (1909) 47 Brassware 37, 305
Ann Siang Hill (Singapore) 226 Baba-Nyonya community 123, 128, Brewer, Frank 226
Anna Rais community 15 132–3 Britain see Great Britain
Annual events 56–9, 206–7 British East India Company (EIC) 43,
Aquariums Baba-Nyonya Heritage Museum 44, 46, 106, 109, 204
Aquaria KLCC (Kuala Lumpur) (Melaka) 131, 132–3 British Residents 47
12, 79 Bronze Age 39
Underwater World (Langkawi) Badan Warisan (Kuala Lumpur) 81 Brooke, Charles 46, 161, 162, 163, 170
13, 121 Bajau tribe 27, 198, 199 Brooke, Charles Vyner 48, 163
Underwater World (Singapore) Bako National Park (Sarawak) 11, 15, Brooke, James 46, 157, 163, 171
13, 250, 262 Brunei 11, 16, 60, 178–9
Arab merchants 40, 231, 234 157, 168–9 history 43, 46–7, 49
Arab Street (Singapore) 232, 233, Bamboo 305 hotels 281
234, 254 Bank notes 327 restaurants 296
Arahant Upagutta 112 Banking 326–7 Sultan Omar Ali Saifuddien
Archaeology 39 Barisan Nasional (National Front) 51, 54 Mosque 61, 179
Lembah Bujang 93, 116 Batang Rajang River 158, 170 Buddha 112, 235
Lenggong Valley 101 Batik 29, 36, 81, 254, 304 Buddha Tooth Relic Temple &
Niah Caves National Park 16, 39, Museum (Singapore) 13, 225
157, 174 Craft Batik 114 Buddhism 30–31, 142, 154
Sungai Jaong (Sarawak) 164 Bats 11, 22 festivals 57
Architecture 63 Batu Caves 4–5, 96 history 39, 40, 41
8 Heeren Street (Melaka) 131 see also Temples
Badan Warisan (Kuala Lumpur) 81 festivals 35, 56 Bukit Nanas Forest Reserve (Kuala
Islamic 28–9 itinerary 12 Lumpur) 80–1
Kampung Baru (Kuala Lumpur) 78 Batu Ferringhi (Penang) 13, 114 Bukit Timah Nature Reserve
Kellie’s Castle 100 Batu Maung 115 (Singapore) 243, 244
Kuala Lumpur Railway Station 71 Bavanggazo (Sabah) 182, 189 bumiputras 27, 51
Malaysian Tourism Information Beaches 10, 14 Burma 44, 112
Complex (Kuala Lumpur) 80 Air Batang (Pulau Tioman) 137 Burma-Thailand “Death” Railway 48
Menara KL Tower (Kuala Lumpur) Bak Bak (Kudat) 189 Bus travel 331, 336, 337
12, 64, 80 Batu Ferringhi (Penang) 114 cities 338, 339
Minangkabau 127 Cherating 143 Buskers’ Festival (Singapore) 258, 259
Old Parliament House (Singapore) Damai (Sarawak) 164 Butterflies 12, 72, 99, 114
214, 217 Desaru 125, 135 Butterworth, W. L. 112
Palace of Justice (Putrajaya) 83 Palawan (Singapore) 251
Parliament Complex (Singapore) Pantai Cenang (Langkawi) 13, 93, C
210 118, 120–21
Perdana Putra (Putrajaya) 83 Pantai Dasar Sabak 154 Calendars 321
Petronas Towers (Kuala Lumpur) Pelangi (Pulau Langkawi) 94 Calligraphy 29
12, 33, 51, 62, 63, 78 Pulau Pangkor 100–101 Cambodia 39
Raffles City (Singapore) 218 Pulau Tioman 122, 123, 136, 137 Cameron, William 98
Sabak (Kelantan) 139
Semporna (Sabah) 52–3, 198–9
Tanjung Tuan 126
Teluk Bahang (Penang) 114
Teluk Chempedak 142
see also Islands

GENERAL INDEX 341

Cameron Highlands 60, 98–9 Chijmes (Singapore) 209, 218, 258, 259 Credit cards 326
hotels 279 Children 322 Cruises 335
restaurants 292 Culture 26, 45, 55
in hotels 277
Camping 277 in restaurants 285 Gelanggang Seni (Kota Bharu) 14,
Canopy Skywalk (Mulu NP) 16, 177 Chin Peng 49 153
Car rental 337 China 39, 40, 41, 45, 46, 47, 48 itinerary 10, 14
Carcosa Seri Negara (Kuala Lumpur) racism 50–51 Lamin Dana Cultural Boutique
Chinatown Complex (Singapore) 225 (Mukah) 172
73 Chinatown Heritage Centre Malay Heritage Centre (Singapore)
Cat Museum (Kuching) 163 (Singapore) 224 232, 234
Cat Statues (Kuching) 163 Chinatowns Mari Mari Cultural Village (Sabah)
Cathedrals and churches Georgetown 13 17, 188
Kuala Lumpur 12, 63, 70 Sarawak Cultural Village 15, 165
All Saint’s Church (Taiping) 101 Kuala Terengganu 147 Singapore 205
Armenian Church (Singapore) Singapore 13, 209, 224–6, 254 see also Entertainment
222–3 Chinese New Year 34–5, 56, 59 Cuppage, William 240
Cathedral of the Assumption Singapore 206 Currency 326–7
(Georgetown) 110 Chinese people 26, 30–31, 54 Customs 320–21
Cathedral of the Good Shepherd architecture 32 Cyberjaya 83
(Singapore) 219 clans 106–7
Christ Church (Melaka) 123, 129 Haw Par Villa (Singapore) 248 D
St. Andrew’s Cathedral (Singapore) Kapitan China 63, 69, 71
218 see also Chinatowns Dali, Salvador 227
St. George’s Church (Georgetown) Chingay Parade (Singapore) 206 Damai Beach (Sarawak) 164
109 Chitty community 123, 130
St. Mary’s Cathedral (Kuala Chola kingdom 40 hotels 281
Lumpur) 66 Chor Soo Kong 115 Dance 310
St. Paul’s Church (Melaka) 128 Chow Kit Market (Kuala Lumpur) 63,
Tamil Methodist Church (Melaka) 77 Islamic 29
130 Christ Church (Melaka) 123, 129 Singapore 260, 261
Caves and grottoes 313, 317 Christmas 59, 207 Danum Valley (Sabah) 182, 198
Batu Caves 4–5, 12, 35, 56, 96 Chulias 108 Dayak people 157, 158
Clearwater Cave 16, 176 Churches see Cathedrals and Deepavali festival 59, 207
Deer Cave (Sarawak) 16 churches Dent, Alfred 47
Fairy Cave (Sarawak) 167 Cinema 309, 311 Desaru Beach 125, 135
Gomantong Caves (Sabah) 17, Coliseum (Kuala Lumpur) 76–7 Dhammikarama Temple (Pulau Tikus)
197 Singapore 260, 261 112
Gua Charas 142 Clarke, Sir Andrew 223 Dhoby Ghaut (Singapore) 240
Kinta Valley 101 Clarke Quay (Singapore) 211, 223, Dialling codes 329
Mulu National Park (Sarawak) 252, 254 Disabled travelers 322, 323
176–7 Climate 58–9, 320 entertainment 258
Niah Caves National Park 16, 39, Clothing 322 in hotels 277
157, 174 Clubs Domestic air travel 332
Wind Cave (Sarawak) 167 Royal Selangor (Kuala Lumpur) Dragon Boat Festival and Boat Race
Cell phones 328, 329 66, 68 (Singapore) 206
Central Market (Kuala Lumpur) 12, 67, Singapore Cricket Club 215 Dugongs 23
69 Coastal plains 23 Dutch Era 42–3, 123, 128
Central Peninsula 139–55 Cocoa 199
Exploring the Central Peninsula Coconuts 146 E
140–41 Coins 45, 327
hotels 280–81 Coleman, G. D. 217, 222 E & O Hotel (Georgetown) 13, 111
restaurants 295–6 Colonialism 93, 102, 123 East Coast Park (Singapore) 243,
Centrepoint, The (Singapore) 239, architecture 33
240 history 42–3, 44–5, 46–8, 49 248–9
Ceramics 36, 304, 305 Colors of Malaysia festival 57 Easter 56, 59
Chan See Shu Yuen Temple (Kuala Communications 328–9 Eastern Peninsula 139–55
Lumpur) 63, 71 Conrad, Joseph 220, 227
Changi Museum (Singapore) 243, Conversion chart 323 Exploring the Eastern Peninsula
249 Coral reefs 10, 23, 24–5, 200–201 140–41
Chap Goh Mei festival 56 Courthouse Complex (Kuching) 161 hotels 280–81
Chaplin, Charlie 220, 241 Coward, Noel 111, 220 restaurants 295–6
Cheng Hang 228 Cowie, William 187 Economics 51, 54–5, 93, 181
Cheng Hoon Teng Temple (Melaka) Crafts 10, 55, 29, 36–37 Singapore 204–5
130 Craft Batik (Penang) 114 Electricity 321
Cheong Fatt Tze Mansion Komplex Budaya Kraf (Kuala Embassies 323
(Georgetown) 13, 104–5, 111 Lumpur) 81 Emerald Hill (Singapore) 240
Cherating 143 Komplex Budaya Kraf (Pulau Emergency, the 49
hotels 280 Langkawi) 121 Emergency numbers 325
restaurants 295 Sarawak Craft Council 160 Endangered species 23, 55
Chettiar Temple (Singapore) 223 Endau-Rompin National Park 140,
Chihuly, Dale 219 143
Entertainment 55, 205, 258–61,
308–11
art exhibitions 308
Chinese opera 260, 261

342 GENERAL INDEX

Endau-Rompin National Park (cont.) G Hesse, Hermann 111
cinema 260, 261, 309, 311 Hill stations
dance 260, 261, 310 Galleries see Museums and galleries
disabled access 258 Ganesh 235, 236 Cameron Highlands 60, 98–9
free performances 259 Gardens see Parks and gardens Fraser’s Hill 97
information 258, 259 Garnault of Siam, Bishop 110 Genting Highlands 96–7
listings 308, 311 Gawai festival (Sarawak) 57 Penang Hill 13, 113
music 260, 261, 309–10, 311 Gay and lesbian travelers 322, 323 Hinduism 30–31
nightlife 260–61, 311 Gelanggang Seni (Kota Bharu) 14, festivals 35, 56, 59
open air shows 259 history 39, 40, 41
pubs, bars, and karaoke 310, 311 153 see also Temples
theater 260, 261, 309, 311 Gemas 155 History 39–51
theme parks 308, 311 Genting Highlands 96–7 ancient 39–40
tickets 258, 259 Georgetown (Penang) 93, 106–11 colonialism 42–3, 44–5, 46–8
venues 258, 259 Emergency, the 49
100 Cintra Street 13, 110 Konfrontasi 50
Environment 55 Cathedral of the Assumption 110 Melaka 41, 49
Esplanade Park (Singapore) 216 Cheong Fatt Tze Mansion 13, racism 50–51
Ethnic tensions 50–51 104–105, 111 Holland see Dutch Era
Eu Tong Seng 80 E & O Hotel 13, 111 Homage to Newton (Dali) 227
festivals 57 Hornaday, William 96
F Fort Cornwallis 13, 106 Hospitals 325
Hainan Temple 110–11 Hotels 276–83
Fairy Cave (Sarawak) 167 itinerary 10, 13 budget 276
Fatt Tze, Cheong 111 Kapitan Keling Mosque 13, 28, Carcosa Seri Negara (Kuala
Federal Territory Day (Kuala Lumpur) 107, 108 Lumpur) 73
Khoo Kongsi Temple 13, 107 Central Peninsula 280–81
56 Kuan Yin Temple 109 Cheong Fatt Tze Mansion
Federated Malay States 47 Little India 13, 108–9 (Georgetown) 111
Festival of the Hungry Ghosts 58, 207 Masjid Melayu 107 E & O Hotel (Georgetown) 13, 111
Festival of the Nine Emperor Gods Penang Museum and Art Gallery Eastern Peninsula 280–81
110 Goodwood Park (Singapore) 241,
(Singapore) 207 Pinang Peranakan Mansion 109 283
Festivals 34–5, 56–9, 320 Sri Mariamman Temple 108 hidden costs 277
St. George’s Church 13, 109 homestays 276
Rainforest World Music Festival Syed Alatas Mansion 108 international 276
(Sarawak) 58, 165, 320 Weld Quay Clan Piers 13, 106 Kuala Lumpur 278
Singapore 206–7, 258, 259 Girl on a Swing (Harpley) 246 longhouses 276–7
Fiddler crabs 23 Goh Chok Tong 51 Majestic (Kuala Lumpur) 71, 278
Fiesta San Pedro (Melaka) 57 Golden Triangle (Kuala Lumpur) 12, Mandarin Oriental (Kuala Lumpur)
Filipino Market (Kota Kinabalu) 185 63, 80 80, 278
Five Foot Ways 111 Gomantong Caves (Sabah) 17, 197 mid-range 276
Flora and Fauna 191, 249; see also Gombizau (Sabah) 182, 188 national parks 277
Orchids; Rafflesia flower Gongs 188–9 Northwest Peninsula 279
Food 286–9 Goodwood Park Hotel (Singapore) Raffles (Singapore) 33, 209,
Lau Pa Sat (Singapore) 226 241 220–21, 283
Malay-Chinese cuisine 288 Great Britain 46, 63, 102, 123, 128 rates 277
Malay cuisine 286–7 history 43, 46–8, 49 ratings 276
Malay-Indian cuisine 289 Sabah 181 reservations 277
shopping (Singapore) 257 Singapore 234 resort 276
Singapore 205 Straits Settlements 44–5 Sabah 282
street food 285 Gua Charas 142 Sarawak 281–2
Fort Canning Park (Singapore) 12, Gua Masang 155 Singapore 282–3
223 Guangxu, Emperor 113 Smokehouse Hotel (Cameron
Fort Cornwallis (Georgetown) 13, Gunung Gading National Park Highlands) 98, 279, 292
106 (Sarawak) 166–7 Southern Peninsula 279–80
Fort Margherita (Kuching) 162–3 Gunung Jerai 116 special needs 277
Fortresses Gunung Kinabalu (Sabah) 11, 181, Hubbock, A.B. 68, 71
A’Famosa (Melaka) 128 182, 190, 192–3 Hussein Shah, Sultan 232, 234
Fort Atlingsburg 97
Fort Cornwallis (Georgetown) H I
13, 106
Fort Margherita (Kuching) 162–3 Hainan Temple (Georgetown) 110– Iban longhouses (Sarawak) 170, 173
Fort Siloso (Singapore) 13, 250 11 itinerary 11, 15
Fort Sylvia (Sarawak) 171 Rumah Bundong (Sarawak) 171
Kota Belanda (Pulau Pangkor) Hang Kasturi 130 Iban people 27, 36
100–101 Hanuman 237 Idris, Sultan 102, 103
Kota Kuala Kedah 117 Hari Raya Haji festival 56, 207 Ikat 36, 305
Porta de Santiago (Melaka) 128 Hari Raya Puasa festival 26, 35, 58, 59, India 39, 40, 41, 48
Round Tower (Kuching) 160 Indian people 26, 30, 54, 231; see also
Square Tower (Kuching) 162 207
Fraser, Louis James 97 Harpley, Sydney 246 Little India
Fraser’s Hill 97 Harrison, Tom 174 Indigenous peoples 27, 46, 48, 54
hotels 279 Hassanal Bolkiah, Sultan of Brunei Indonesia 41, 49, 50; see also Sumatra
FRIM (Forest Research Institute of Insurance 325
Malaysia) (Kuala Lumpur) 82 178
Funan (Cambodia) 39 Haw Par Villa (Singapore) 13, 243, 248
Haxworth, W.R.M. 249
Health 324–5

GENERAL INDEX 343

International Bird Race 97 Jalan India (Kuching) 161 Koran 29
Internet 328 Jalan Petaling Market (Kuala Lumpur) Kota Belud (Sabah) 182, 188
ION Orchard (Singapore) 238, 240, festivals 59
70, 322 Kota Bharu 140, 150–1, 152–3
252, 255 Jalan Tuanku Abdul Rahman (TAR)
Ipoh 100 hotels 280
hotels 279 (Kuala Lumpur) 76–7 itinerary 10, 14
restaurants 292 Jalan Tun Tan Cheng Lock (Heeren restaurants 295
Iskandar Malaysia 134 shops 307
Iskandar Shah, Sultan 103 Street) (Melaka) 131 Kota Kinabalu (Sabah) 181, 184–5
Islam 28–9, 123, 139 Japan 153, 154, 186, 241 festivals 58
festivals 26, 35, 56, 57 Filipino Market 185
history 40, 41 history 41, 48, 49 hotels 282
see also Mosques Java 40, 41 itinerary 11, 17
Islamic Arts Museum (Kuala Lumpur) Jerantut 155 restaurants 298
Joaquim, Agnes 223 Sabah Museum 184
6, 74–5 Johor 42, 47, 123, 124 Sabah State Mosque 185
Islamic Heritage Museum (Kuching) shops 307
festivals 56 Kuah (Pulau Langkawi) 120
160 Johor Bahru 134–5 Kuala Kangsar 93, 102–3
Islamic Museum (Kota Bharu) 152–3 Istana Hulu 103
Islands 23 dance 29 Istana Iskandariah 103
hotels 279 Istana Kenangan 103
Kusu (Singapore) 243, 248 restaurants 294 Masjid Ubudiah 28–9, 102
Perhentian 60, 140, 141, 148 shops 306–7 Kuala Kedah 117
Pulau Duyung 14, 149 Jungle Railway 155 Kuala Krai 155
Pulau Gaya (Sabah) 185 Jurong Bird Park (Singapore) 13, 242, Kuala Lipis 155
Pulau Kapas 146 243, 245 Kuala Lumpur 51, 63–91
Pulau Ketam 83 airport 330
Pulau Kukup 134 K Badan Warisan 81
Pulau Labuan (Sabah) 186 Bukit Nanas Forest Reserve 80–1
Pulau Langkawi 118–21, 279, Kadazan Dusun tribe 27 bus station 331
292–3, 306, 307 Kai Zhang Shen Wang 228 Carcosa Seri Negara 73
Pulau Lankayan (Sabah) 182, Kali 235 Central Market 12, 67, 69
197, 282 Kampung Ayer (Brunei) 179 Chan See Shu Yuen Temple 63, 71
Pulau Mamutik (Sabah) 185 Kampung Baru (Kuala Lumpur) 63, Chinatown 63, 70
Pulau Manukan (Sabah) 185 Chow Kit Market 63, 77
Pulau Pangkor 100–101 78 City Gallery 69
Pulau Redang 140, 148 Kampung Jenang 146 Exploring Kuala Lumpur 64–5
Pulau Sapi (Sabah) 185 Kampung Kling Mosque (Melaka) festivals 56, 57, 59
Pulau Sipadan (Sabah) 61, 182, Flagpole 67
183, 194–5, 200–201 130 FRIM 82
Pulau Sulug (Sabah) 185 Kanowit 171 getting around 338–9
Pulau Tenggol 140, 146 Kapit (Sarawak) 158, 171 Golden Triangle 12, 63, 80
Pulau Tioman 122, 123, 136–7 Kapitan China 63, 69, 71 hotels 278
Pulau Ubin (Singapore) 243, 249 Kapitan Keling Mosque Islamic Arts Museum 6, 74–5
Sentosa (Singapore) 13, 209, 243, itinerary 12
250–51 (Georgetown) 13, 28, 107, 108 Jalan Alor 12, 76
Seribuat Archipelago 123, 124, 135 Kedah 39, 43, 44 Jalan Petaling Market 70, 322
Ismail, Sultan 152 Alor Star 117 Jalan Tuanku Abdul Rahman (TAR)
Istana Balai Besar (Kota Bharu) 152 Kuala Kedah 117 76–7
Istana Batu (Kota Bharu) 14, 152 Keith, Agnes 17, 196 Kampung Baru 63, 78
Istana Hulu (Kuala Kangsar) 103 Kek Lok Si Temple (Penang) 10, 13, KLCC Park 12, 79
Istana Iskandariah (Kuala Kangsar) 103 Komplex Budaya Kraf 81
Istana Jahar (Kota Bharu) 14, 152 92, 95, 113 Little India 63, 76
Istana Kenangan (Kuala Kangsar) 103 Kelabit Highlands (Sarawak) 175 MalaysianTourism Information
Istana Kesultanan Melaka (Melaka) hotels 281 Complex 80
129 Kellie-Smith, William 100 Masjid India 76
Itineraries 10–17 Kellie’s Castle 100 Masjid Jamek 12, 67, 68
beaches 10, 14 Keris (daggers) 37 Masjid Negara 72
culture 10, 14 Khoo Kongsi Temple (Georgetown) Menara KL Tower 12, 80
Kuala Lumpur 12 Merdeka Square Street-by-Street
Kuching 11, 15 13, 107 66–7
Langkawi 10, 13 Kinabalu National Park (Sabah) 17, National Art Gallery 77
Melaka 12 National History Museum 67
Northern Sarawak 11, 16 180, 182, 190–93 National Museum 12, 72
Penang 10, 13 hotels 282 National Music Museum 69
Sabah 11, 17 itinerary 11 Pasar Minggu Market 78
Singapore 12–13 restaurants 298 Perdana Botanical Gardens 63,
Taman Negara 12 Kinabatangan Wildlife Sanctuary 72–3
Petronas Towers 12, 33, 51, 62,
J (Sabah) 17, 197 63, 78
King’s Birthday 57, 59 Pitcher Plant Fountain 66
Jalan Alor (food street) (Kuala Lumur) Kinta Valley 101
12, 76 Kipling, Rudyard 111, 220
Kites 10, 14, 36, 304
Jalan Hang Jebat (Jonkers Street) KL International Arts Festival (Kuala
(Melaka) 130
Lumpur) 57
KL International Buskers Festival

(Kuala Lumpur) 59
Klang 82–3
KLCC Park (Kuala Lumpur) 12, 79
Klias Wetlands (Sabah) 11, 17, 186
Kompleks Budaya Kraf (Kuala

Lumpur) 81
Konfrontasi 50

344 GENERAL INDEX

Kuala Lumpur (cont.) Lembah Bujang 116 Maps
Railway Station 71 Lenggong Valley 101 Bako National Park 168–9
restaurants 290–92 Leong San See Temple (Singapore) Borneo 20–21
Royal Selangor Club 66, 68 Brunei 178–9
shops 306, 307 235 Cameron Highlands 98–9
Sri Maha Mariamman Temple 70 Leopards 23 Central Peninsula 140–41
Streetfinder maps 84–91 Light, Sir Francis 43, 45, 106, 109, Colonial Core and Chinatown
Sultan Abdul Samad Building 60, (Singapore) 213
66, 68 110 Eastern Peninsula 140–41
Sze Ya Temple 69 Lim Bo Seng Memorial (Singapore) Exploring Kuala Lumpur 64–5
Thean Hou Temple 65, 73 Georgetown (Penang) 106–7
Titiwangsa Lake Gardens 78 215, 216 Jungle Railway 155
Limestone 22 Kampong Glam Street-by-Street
Kuala Pilah 126 Lister, Martin 126 (Singapore) 232–3
Kuala Selangor 97 Little India (Georgetown) 13, Kota Bharu 153
Kuala Terengganu 10, 139, 140, 147 Kuala Lumpur Streetfinder 84–91
108–9 Kuching 161
hotels 280 Little India (Kuala Lumpur) 63, 76 Little India and Orchard Road
itinerary 14 Little India (Singapore) 13, 209, 231– (Singapore) 231
restaurants 295
shops 307 41, 235 Malaysia at a Glance 60–61
Kuan Yin 109, 130, 142, 228 Loagan Bunut National Park Malaysian Borneo 20–21
Kuan Yin Temple (Georgetown) 109 Melaka 129
Kuantan (Pahang) 54, 140, 142 (Sarawak) 175 Merdeka Square Street-by-Street
hotels 280 Longhouses 32, 189
restaurants 295 (Kuala Lumpur) 66–7
Kubah National Park (Sarawak) 165 hotels 276–7 Mulu National Park 176–7
Kuching (Sarawak) 61, 157, 160–63 Iban 170, 171, 173
Astana 163 Lord Jim (Conrad) 227 Northwest Peninsula 94–5
Cat Museum 163 Lord Krishna 207 Orchard Road Street-by-Street
Cat Statues 163 Lord Murugan 96, 108, 130, 223, 235 (Singapore) 238–9
Courthouse Complex 161 Lost property 324 Padang Street-by-Street
festivals 58 Low, Sir Hugh 102, 193 (Singapore) 214–15
Fort Margherita 162–3 Low’s Peak (Kinabalu) 193 Peninsular Malaysia 18–19
hotels 281 Lunar calendar 321 Pulau Langkawi 118–19
Islamic Heritage Museum 160 Pulau Tioman 136–7
itineraries 11, 15 M Sabah 182–3
Jalan India 161 Sarawak 158–9
restaurants 296–7 Ma Zhu Po 228 Sentosa (Singapore) 250–51
Round Tower 160 Magellan, Ferdinand 189 Singapore Botanic Gardens 246–7
Sarawak Museum 160 Mahathir Mohamad 50, 51 Singapore Farther Afield 243
shops 307 Mahmud Shah 42 Singapore River 210–11
Textile Museum 160 Mahsuri, Princess 118, 119, 120 Singapore Street Finder 264–73
Tua Pek Kong 162 Majapahit empire 40 Southern Peninsula 124–5
Tun Jugah Gallery 160 Malacca 93; see also Melaka Taman Negara National Park 144–5
Waterfront 162 Malay Heritage Centre (Singapore) Mar Chor 110–11
Kudat (Sabah) 189 Mari Mari Cultural Village (Sabah) 11,
Kukup 134 232, 234 17, 188
restaurants 294 Malay people 26, 48, 49, 54 Marina Bay Sands (Singapore) 217
Kusu Island (Singapore) 243, 248 Marine life 24–5
architecture 32 Maritime Museum (Melaka) 131
L Singapore 231 Markets 10, 11
Malay Ringgit 327 Central Market (Kota Kinabalu) 185
Labi (Brunei) 178 Malayan Communist Party (MCP) 48, Central Market (Kuala Lumpur) 12,
Labor Day 59 49 67, 69
Labuan, Treaty of (1847) 46 Malayan Races Liberation Army Chinatown Complex (Singapore)
Labuan International Sea Challenge (MRLA) 49 225
Malayan Union 49 Chow Kit (Kuala Lumpur) 63, 77
57 Malaysia Day 58–9 Filipino (Kota Kinabalu) 185
Lakes Malaysia Mega Sale Carnival 58 Jalan Alor (Kuala Lumpur) 76
Malaysian Army 50 Jalan Petaling (Kuala Lumpur)
Tasek Merimbun (Brunei) 178 Malaysian Grand Prix (Selangor) 56 70, 322
Tasik Chini 142 Malaysian Open Golf Championship Jonker Walk Night Market (Melaka)
Tasik Dayang Bunting 118, 121 56 130
Tasik Kenyir 146 MalaysianTourism Information Pantai Cenang (Pulau Langkawi)
Laksa 287 Complex (Kuala Lumpur) 80 121
Lakshmi 207 Mangroves 23, 159 Pasar Besar (Kota Bharu) 14,
Lambir Hills National Park (Sarawak) Klias Wetlands (Sabah) 11,17, 186 150–151, 152
61, 175 Pulau Kukup 134 Pasar Minggu (Kuala Lumpur) 78
Landscape 22–3 Mansions and houses Pasar Payang (Kuala Terengganu)
Langkawi see Pulau Langkawi 100 Cintra Street (Georgetown) 14, 147
Language 50, 205, 323 13, 110 Tamu Besar (Kota Belud) 188
Lao Tzu 130 Agnes Keith’s House (Sabah) 17, Masjid India (Kuala Lumpur) 76
Lau Pa Sat (Singapore) 226, 299 196 Masjid Jamek (Kuala Lumpur) 12, 67,
Lee Hsien Loong 51 Cheong Fatt Tze Mansion 68
Lee Kuan Yew 49, 51, 204 (Georgetown) 13, 104–5, 111
Gedung Kuning (Singapore) 232
Pinang Peranakan Mansion
(Georgetown) 109
Seri Melaka (Melaka) 128
Syed Alatas Mansion (Georgetown)
108

GENERAL INDEX 345

Masjid Melayu (Georgetown) 107 Masjid Bandaraya (Kuching) 161 Museums and galleries (cont.)
Masjid Negara (Kuala Lumpur) 72 Masjid Di Raja Sultan Suleiman Darul Ridzuan Museum (Ipoh) 100
Masjid Sultan (Singapore) 13, 232, Democratic Government Museum
(Klang) 83 (Melaka) 128
234 Masjid al-Hana (Pulau Langkawi) 119, Forestry Museum (Gunung Jerai)
Masjid Tengku Tengah Zaharah 116
120 Fuk Tak Chi Museum (Singapore)
(Kuala Terengganu) 147 Masjid India (Kuala Lumpur) 76 226
Masjid Ubudiah (Kuala Kangsar) Masjid Jamek (Brunei) 158 Galeri Petronas (Kuala Lumpur) 79
Masjid Jamek (Kuala Lumpur) 12, 67, Galeri Shah Alam (Shah Alam) 82
28–9, 102 Galeri Sultan Azlan Shah (Kuala
Masks 304 68 Kangsar) 103
Matang Wildlife Center (Sarawak) Masjid Melayu (Georgetown) 107 Gedung Raja Abdullah (Klang) 83
Masjid Negara (Kuala Lumpur) 72 Islamic Arts Museum (Kuala
165 Masjid Negeri (Kuantan) 54, 142 Lumpur) 6, 74–5
Maugham, Somerset 77, 111, 220 Masjid Sultan (Singapore) 13, 232, Islamic Heritage Museum
Maxwell, John Argyle 214, 217 (Kuching) 160
Media 328–9 234 Islamic Museum (Kota Bharu)
Medical treatment 325 Masjid Tengku Tengah Zaharah 152–3
Melaka 123, 124, 128–33 Kuala Lumpur City Gallery 69
(Kuala Terengganu) 147 Lembah Bujang Archaeological
Baba-Nyonya Heritage Museum Masjid Ubudiah (Kuala Kangsar) Museum 116
131, 132–3 Lenggong Archaeological
Cheng Hoon Teng Temple 130 28–9, 102 Museum 101
Christ Church 123, 129 Masjid Zahir (Alor Star) 117 Malaqa House (Melaka) 131
history 40, 41, 42–3, 44 Masjid Zainal Abidin (Kuala Maritime Museum (Melaka) 131
hotels 279–80 Museum of History and
Istana Kesultanan Melaka 129 Terengganu) 147 Ethnography (Melaka) 128
itinerary 12 Muhammadi (Kota Bharu) 152 Museum JAKOA 96
Jalan Hang Jebat (Jonkers Street) Museum of Literature (Melaka) 128
130 Putra (Putrajaya) 83 Museum of Royal Traditions and
Jalan Tun Tan Cheng Lock (Heeren Sabah State Mosque (Kota Custom (Kota Bharu) 152
Street) 131 Kinabalu) 185 Museum Sultan Azian Shah (Shah
Kampung Kling Mosque 130 State Mosque (Kuching) 161 Alam) 82
Maritime Museum 131 Sultan Abu Bakar (Johor Bahru) Muzium Di Melaka (Melaka) 129
Porta de Santiago 128 28, 135 National Art Gallery (Kuala
restaurants 294–5 Sultan Ibrahim (Muar) 134 Lumpur) 77
St. Paul’s Hill 128 Sultan Omar Ali Saifuddien (Brunei) National Gallery (Singapore) 12,
shops 306, 307 61, 179 214, 217
Sri Poyyatha Vinayagar Moorthi Sultan Salahuddin Abdul Aziz Shah National History Museum (Kuala
Temple 130 (Shal Alam) 82 Lumpur) 67
Stadthuys 42, 128, 318–19 Al Taqwa (Miri) 174 National Museum of Singapore
Melanau people 172 Motorbike rental 337 222, 256, 257
Menara KL tower (Kuala Lumpur) 12, Mount Kinabalu Climbathon 59 National Museum (Kuala Lumpur)
80 Mountains 12, 72
Merdeka Eve 58 Gunung Gading 166–7 National Music Museum (Kuala
Merdeka Square (Kuala Lumpur) 12, Gunung Jerai 116 Lumpur) 69
66–7 Gunung Kinabalu (Sabah) 11, 181, Penang Museum and Art Gallery
Mersing 135 182, 190, 192–3 (Georgetown) 110
restaurants 295 Gunung Murud (Sarawak) 175 Perak Museum (Taiping) 101
Metalwork 37 Gunung Raya 119 Perak Royal Museum (Kuala
Metros 338 Gunung Santubong (Sarawak) 164 Kangsar) 103
Mid-Autumn Festival (Singapore) 207 Gunung Tahan 144 Peranakan Museum (Singapore)
Minangkabau people 60, 123, 126 Titiwangsa range 96, 97, 116, 139 12, 222
architecture 33, 127 Muar 134 Petroleum Museum (Miri) 16, 174
Miri (Sarawak) 11, 16, 174 Muda Hashim 46 Petrosains (Kuala Lumpur) 79
festivals 57 Muhammad II, Sultan 152 Pinacotheque de Paris Museum
hotels 281 Muhammadi Mosque (Kota Bharu) (Singapore) 223
restaurants 297 152 Royal Sultan Abu Bakar Musuem
Miri International Jazz Festival 57 Mukah (Sarawak) 57, 172 (Johor Bahru) 134–5
Mohudeen, Caudeer 108 Mulu National Park (Sarawak) 61, 156, Sabah Museum (Kota Kinabalu)
Money matters 326–7 157, 158, 176–7 184
Monkeys 146, 169 hotels 282 Sarawak Museum (Kuching) 15,
proboscis 11, 22, 186 itineraries 11, 16 160
Mooncake Festival 59 restaurants 297 Science Centre Singapore 243, 245
Moses, Claude Lee 46–7 Museums and galleries Sibu Civic Center Heritage
Mosques Asian Civilisations Museum Museum (Sarawak) 170–1
Al Abrar (Singapore) 226 (Singapore) 12, 216 Singapore Art Museum 218–19
An-Nur Jamek (Pulau Labuan) 186 Baba-Nyonya Heritage Museum Singapore Discovery Center 244–5
architecture 28–9 (Melaka) 131, 132–3 State Museum (Alor Star) 117
Haijah Fatimah (Singapore) 233 Battle Box Museum (Singapore) 223 State Museum (Seremban) 126,
Kampung Kling (Melaka) 130 Buddha Tooth Relic Temple & 127
Kapitan Keling (Georgetown) 13, Museum (Singapore) 13, 225
28, 107, 108 Cat Museum (Kuching) 163
Masjid Abdullah (Pekan) 143 Changi Museum (Singapore)
Masjid Abu Bakar (Pekan) 143 243, 249
Masjid Assyakirin (Bintulu) 172 Chinatown Heritage Centre
(Singapore) 224
Chinese History Museum
(Kuching) 15, 162

346 GENERAL INDEX

Museums and galleries (cont.) Nature reserves (cont.) P
Sultan Abu Bakar Museum (Pekan) Tambunan Rafflesia Forest Reserve
143 (Sabah) 186 Padang (Singapore) 12, 214–15
Terengganu State Museum Tasik Chini 140, 142 Padas River (Sabah) 17, 181, 182, 187
Complex (Kuala Terengganu) Pahang 47, 54, 139, 140
14, 147 Negeri Sembilan 33, 47, 60, 123 Palaces
Textile Museum (Kuching) 15, 160 Neolithic Age 39
Tham Siew Inn Artist Gallery New Economic Policy (NEP) 51 Astana (Kuching) 163
(Melaka) 131 New Year’s Day 59 Gedung Kuning (Singapore) 232
Tun Jugah Gallery (Kuching) 160 New Year’s Eve 34 Istana Abu Bakar (Pekan) 143
World War II Memorial Museum Newspapers and magazines 329 Istana Alam Shah (Klang) 83
(Kota Bharu) 14, 153 Ngee Ann City (Singapore) 238, Istana Balai Besar (Kota Bharu) 152
Istana Batu (Kota Bharu) 14, 152
Music 309–10, 311 240–1, 252, 255 Istana Hulu (Kuala Kangsar) 103
Rainforest World Music Festival Niah Caves National Park (Sarawak) Istana Iskandariah (Kuala Kangsar)
(Sarawak) 165 103
Singapore 260, 261 16, 39, 157, 158, 174 Istana Jahar (Kota Bharu) 14, 152
Nightlife 260–1, 310–11 Istana Kenangan (Kuala Kangsar)
Muslims see Islam North Borneo Company 47, 187, 199 103
Muzaffar Shah 42 North Borneo Railway 187 Istana Kesultanan Melaka (Melaka)
Northwest Peninsula 93–121 129
N Istana Lama (Sri Menanti) 124, 126,
Exploring Northwest Peninsula 127
Najib Abdul Razak, Mohammad 51 94–5 Istana Maziah (Kuala Terengganu)
Najib Razak, Datuk Seri Mohammed hotels 279 147
restaurants 292–3 Istana Nur-ul-Iman (Brunei) 179
54 Palm oil 51, 181, 199
Napoleonic Wars 43 O Pangkor
Narakasura 207 hotels 279
Narcotics 324 Oil 51, 174, 178 restaurants 293
National Art Gallery (Kuala Lumpur) Old Parliament House (Singapore) Pangkor, Treaty of (1874) 46, 47
Panoramic Sketch of Prince of Wales
77, 308 214, 217 Island (Daniell) 38
National Day 58, 59 One Village, One Product scheme Pantai Cenang (Langkawi) 13, 93,
118, 120–21
Singapore 206–7 188 Pantai Dasar Sabak 154
National Gallery (Singapore) 12, 214, Opening hours 321 Parameswara, Prince of Palembang
shops (Malaysia) 302–303 41, 128
217 shops (Singapore) 252 Parks and gardens
National Language Act (1967) 50 Orang Asli people 27, 93, 96, 138, Botanic Garden (Putrajaya) 83
National Museum (Kuala Lumpur) 7, East Coast Park (Singapore) 243,
139 248–9
12, 72 Kampung Gumum 142 Esplanade Park (Singapore) 216
National Museum of Singapore 222, Orang Syam people 93, 117, 139, Fort Canning Park (Singapore)
154 12, 223
256, 257 Orang Ulu tribe 27, 157 Gardens by the Bay (Singapore)
National Music Museum (Kuala Orangutans 11, 22, 157, 167, 196 13, 208, 209, 217
Sepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation Jurong Bird Park (Singapore) 13,
Lumpur) 69 Center (Sabah) 17, 321 242, 243, 245
National parks 11, 55 Orchard Road (Singapore) 209, 231– Kinabalu Botanical Garden (Sabah)
41 190
accommodation 277 itinerary 13 KLCC Park (Kuala Lumpur) 79
Bako (Sarawak) 15, 157, 168–9 Street-by-Street 238–9 Lake Gardens (Seremban) 126
bookings and permits 312, 317 Orchids 246, 256, 257 Lake Gardens (Taiping) 101
Endau-Rompin 140, 143 Organized tours 331 Langkawi Birds Paradise (Pulau
Gunung Gading (Sarawak) 166–7 cities 339 Langkawi) 119
Kinabalu (Sabah) 17, 180, 182, Orlina, Ramon 219 Peace Park (Pulau Labuan) 186
190–93 Outdoor activities 262–3, 312–17 Penang Botanic Gardens 112–13
Kubah (Sarawak) 165 adventure sports 262–3 Perdana Botanical Gardens (Kuala
Kuching Wetlands (Sarawak) 164 bird-watching 316, 317 Lumpur) 63, 72–3
Lambir Hills (Sarawak) 61, 175 bookings and permits 312, 317 Rose Garden (Cameron Highlands)
Loagan Bunut (Sarawak) 175 caving 313, 317 99
Mulu (Sarawak) 61, 156, 157, 158, cycling 263 Sandakan Memorial Park (Sabah)
176–7 golf 97, 262, 263, 316, 317 196
Niah Caves 16, 39, 157, 158, 174 guided tours 312, 317 Singapore Botanic Gardens 13, 47,
Penang 13, 115 hiking 145, 190, 192–3 209, 243, 246–7
Pulau Kukup 134 horseback riding 97 Sungai Teroi Forest Recreation Park
Similajau (Sarawak) 172 Langkawi Rain Forest Canopy (Gunung Jerai) 116
Taman Negara 60, 139, 140, 144–5 Adventure (Pulau Langkawi) Taman Tumbina (Bintulu) 172
Tanjung Datu (Sarawak) 166 120 Tawau Hills State Park (Sabah) 199
Tunku Abdul Rahman (Sabah) 185 river cruises 315, 317 Titiwangsa Lake Gardens (Kuala
Turtle Island (Sabah) 61, 196–7 Silau Silau Trail (Kinabalu NP) Lumpur) 78
Ulu Temburong (Brunei) 179 190 Tropical Spice Garden (Penang)
see also Parks and gardens Tekek-Juara Hiking Trail (Pulau 114
Nature reserves Tioman) 137
Bukit Nanas Forest Reserve (Kuala tennis 263
Lumpur) 80–1 trekking 312–13, 317
Bukit Timah (Singapore) 243, 244 wildlife viewing 263, 316, 317
Danum Valley (Sabah) 182, 198 see also Water sports
FRIM (Kuala Lumpur) 82 Overbeck, Baron Gustav von 47
Kuala Selangor Nature Park 97
Putrajaya Wetlands 83
Semenggoh 15, 157, 167

GENERAL INDEX 347

Pasar Minggu Market (Kuala Lumpur) Ports, harbors and quays (cont.) Raffles Place (Singapore) 227
78 Clarke Quay (Singapore) 211, 223, Rafflesia flower 166, 181, 186
252, 254 Rain forests 22, 55
Passports 320, 323 Kuching Waterfront 162
Pei, I.M. 218 Kudat (Sabah) 189 Bukit Timah Nature Reserve
Pekan 143 (Singapore) 243, 244
Pelli, Cesar 78 Port Dickson 126 Mulu National Park 176–7
Penan tribe 27 Port Klang 83 Rainfall 58, 98, 320
Penang 43, 44, 45 Rainforest World Music Festival
Weld Quay Clan Piers (Sarawak) 58, 165, 320
Batu Ferringhi 114 (Georgetown) 13, 106 rajahs 39, 40, 46; see also White
Botanic Gardens 112–13 Portugal 42, 43, 123, 128 Rajahs
Dhammikarama Temple 112 Postal services 328–9 Rama V, King 217
festivals 57, 59 Precautions 324–5 Rama VI, King 113
hotels 279 Prehistoric Age 39 Ramadan 58
itinerary 10, 13 Prophet Muhammad’s Birthday 57, 59 Religion 27, 40, 55
Kapitan Keling Mosque 28 Public holidays 59 festivals 34
Kek Lok Si Temple 113 Singapore 207 Singapore 205
Penang Hill 13, 113 Pulau Dayang Bunting (Pulau see also Buddhism; Christianity;
restaurants 293 Langkawi) 13, 121 Hinduism; Islam
shops 306, 307 Pulau Duyung 14, 149 Resende, Pedro Baretti de 41
Snake Temple 115 Pulau Kapas 146 Restaurants 284–5, 290–301
Teluk Bahang 114 hotels 281 Central Peninsula 295–6
Wat Chayamangkalaram 112 restaurants 296 Eastern Peninsula 295–6
see also Georgetown Pulau Ketam 83 etiquette 284
Penang Botanic Gardens 112–13 Pulau Labuan (Sabah) 186 Kuala Lumpur 290–92
Penang Chingay 59 Pulau Langkawi 118–21 menus 284
Penang International Dragon Boat hotels 279 Northwest Peninsula 292–3
Festival 57 itinerary 10, 13 payment and tipping 285
Penang Museum and Art Gallery Kuah 120 reservations 284
(Georgetown) 110 Langkawi Birds Paradise 119 Sabah 298–9
Penang National Park 13, 115 Langkawi Rain Forest Canopy Sarawak 296–8
Penang World Music Festival Adventure 120 Singapore 299–301
(Georgetown) 57 Pantai Cenang 118, 120–21 smoking 285
Peninsular Malaysia 39, 40, 48, 60 Pulau Dayang Bunting 121 Southern Peninsula 294–5
Peoples 26–7 Pulau Payar Marine Park 121 street food 285
Singapore 205 restaurants 292–3 types 284
People’s Action Party 204 shops 306, 307 vegetarians 285
Perak 42, 47, 93; see also Kuala Telaga Tujuh Falls 119, 121 wine and drink 284–5
Kangsar Teluk Datai 121 see also Food
Peranakan Museum (Singapore) 12, Tomb of Mahsuri 119, 120 Ri Gong Tai Zi 228
14, 222 Pulau Lankayan (Sabah) 182, 197 River cruises 315, 317
Peranakan people 26, 32, 45 hotels 282 River dolphins 11, 15, 154, 315
Peranakan Place (Singapore) 239, Pulau Pangkor 100–101 Road travel 336–7
240 Pulau Payar Marine Park (Pulau Round Tower (Kuching) 160
Perdana Botanical Gardens (Kuala Langkawi) 121 Royal Selangor Club (Kuala Lumpur)
Lumpur) 63, 72–3 Pulau Redang 140, 148 66, 68
Perhentian Islands 14, 60, 140, 141, hotels 281 Rubber 48, 51, 102
148 Pulau Sipadan (Sabah) 61, 182, 183, Rules of the road 337
hotels 280 194–5, 200–201 Rungu tribe 27, 188, 189
itinerary 10 Pulau Tenggol 140, 146
restaurants 295–6 hotels 281 S
Pesta Kaul festival (Mukah) 57, 172 Pulau Tioman 122, 123, 136–7
Petronas Towers (Kuala Lumpur) 12, hotels 280 Sabah 60, 181–201
51, 62, 63, 78 restaurants 295 architecture 32
architecture 33 Pulau Ubin (Singapore) 243, 249 Exploring Sabah 182–3
festivals 34 Putrajaya 56, 63, 83 festivals 57
Pharmacies 325 history 43, 46–7, 48, 49, 50
Philippines, the 49, 50 Q hotels 282
Photography 322–3 indigenous peoples 27
Pillai, Narain 224 Qing Ming Festival (Singapore) 206 map 20–21
Pillai, P. Govindasamy 236 Qu Yuan 206 restaurants 298–9
Pinang Peranakan Mansion Quaritch-Wales, H. G. 116 week in 11, 17
(Georgetown) 109
Police 324 R Sabah Fest 57
Politics 50–51, 54, 204 Sabah International Folklore Festival
Ponggal festival 56, 206 Radio 329
Population 54 Raffles, Sir Stamford 111, 123, 128, (Kota Kinabalu) 58
Poring Hot Springs (Sabah) 11, 17, Sabah Museum (Kota Kinabalu) 184
191 204, 216 Sabah State Mosque (Kota Kinabalu)
Porta de Santiago (Melaka) 128 Chinatown 224
Ports, harbors and quays history 43, 44 185
Boat Quay (Singapore) 209, 211, Raffles City (Singapore) 218 St. Andrew’s Cathedral (Singapore)
227 Raffles Hotel (Singapore) 33, 209,
220–21, 283 218
Raffles’ Landing Site (Singapore) 210, St. George’s Church (Georgetown)
216
13, 109
St. John, Spenser 193

348 GENERAL INDEX

St. Paul’s Hill (Melaka) 128 Shopping (cont.) Singapore (cont.)
Sakya Muni Buddha Gaya (Singapore) cameras and watches 256, 257 Colonial Core and Chinatown 12,
clothes and fabrics 254, 255 213–29
235 computers 256, 257 Cricket Club 215
Salleh, Mat 47 consumer claims 253, 255 culture 205
Sandakan (Sabah) 17, 181, 196 department stores 252, 255 Dhoby Ghaut 240
electronic goods 256, 257 Discovery Center 244–5
itinerary 11 food 257 East Coast Park 243, 248–9
restaurants 298–9 goods returns policies 253 economy 204–5
Santry, Denis 234 Great Singapore Sale 206 Emerald Hill 240
Santubong 15, 164 how to pay 252–3 entertainment 258–61
Sarawak 60, 157–79 jewelry 254, 255 Esplanade – Theaters on the Bay
architecture 32 malls 252, 255 33, 216, 258, 259
Exploring Sarawak 158–9 memorabilia 256, 257 Esplanade Park 216
festivals 57, 58 opening hours 252 Farther Afield 243–51
history 43, 46, 47, 48, 49, 50 permits and laws 253 festivals 206–7, 258, 259
hotels 281–2 refunds 253, 255 Flyer 209, 218
indigenous peoples 27 sales 253 food 205
map 20–21 shoes and bags 254, 255 Fort Canning Park 12, 223
national parks 11, 16 Tangs 241, 252, 255 Gardens by the Bay 13, 208, 209,
restaurants 296–8 taxes 253, 255 217
see also Kuching where to shop 254–7 getting around 338–9
Sarawak Cultural Village 15, 165 see also Markets; Shopping malls At a Glance 209
Sarawak Museum (Kuching) 15, 160 Goodwood Park Hotel 241
Sarawak Regatta 58 Shopping malls 302 government 204
Sarkies brothers 111 Bussorah Mall (Singapore) 233 Haijah Fatimah Mosque 233
Science Centre Singapore 243, 245 Centrepoint, The (Singapore) 239, Haw Par Villa 13, 243, 248
Sea travel 331 240 history 43, 45, 49
Security 324–5 Chijmes (Singapore) 218, 258, 259 hotels 282–3
Selangor 47, 93 ION Orchard (Singapore) 238, 240, independence 50, 51
Sematan (Sarawak) 166 252, 255 ION Orchard 238, 240, 252, 255
Semenggoh Nature Reserve 15, 157, Ngee Ann City (Singapore) 238, Jurong Bird Park 13, 242, 243, 245
167 240–241, 252, 255 Kampong Glam Street-by-Street
Semporna (Sabah) 52–3, 198–9 Park Mall (Singapore) 239, 252, 255 232–3
restaurants 299 Peranakan Place (Singapore) 239, Kusu Island 243, 248
Sentosa (Singapore) 13, 209, 243, 240 languages 205
250–51 Plaza Singapura (Singapore) 239 Lau Pa Sat 226
Sepilok (Sabah) Raffles City (Singapore) 218 Leong San See Temple 235
hotels 282 Suria KLCC (Kuala Lumpur) 12, 79 Lim Bo Seng Memorial 215
itinerary 11 Tanglin Mall (Singapore) 238, 241, Little India and Orchard Road
Orangutan Rehabilitation Center 254, 255 231–41
17, 196, 321 Malay Heritage Centre 232, 234
Sequeira, Adm Lopez de 42 Siam see Thailand Marina Bay Sands 217
Serangoon Road (Singapore) 235, Sibu (Sarawak) 158, 170–171 Masjid Sultan 13, 232, 234
254 Merlion 210, 227
Seremban 60, 124, 126 festivals 58 Nagore Durgha 226
hotels 280 hotels 282 National Gallery 12, 214, 217
restaurants 295 restaurants 297–8 National Museum of Singapore
Seribuat Archipelago 123, 124, 135 Silk 36, 305 222, 256, 257
hotels 280 Silverware 37, 304 Ngee Ann City 238, 240–241,
Shadow puppetry 10, 55, 304 Similajau National Park (Sarawak) 172 252, 255
Shah Alam (Kuala Lumpur) 82 Singapore 123, 204–73 Old Parliament House 214, 217
Shaivism 30 airport 330 Orchard Road Street-by-Street
Shophouses 32, 111, 224, 225, 226 Alsagoff Arab School 232 238–9
Shopping (Malaysia) 302–307 Ann Siang Hill 226 outdoor activities 262–3
antiques 305 Arab Street 232, 233, 234, 254 Padang Street-by-Street 214–15
bargaining 303 Armenian Church 222–3 Park Mall 239, 252, 255
Chinese products 305 Art Museum 218–19 Parliament Complex 210
department stores 302 Asian Civilisations Museum 12, 216 peoples 205
guarantees 303 Boat Quay 209, 211, 227 Peranakan Museum 12, 14, 222
imitation goods 303 Botanic Gardens 13, 47, 209, 243, Peranakan Place 239, 240
Indian products 305 246–7 politics 204
Malay products 304 Buddha Tooth Relic Temple & Pulau Ubin 243, 249
Malaysian Borneo products 305 Museum 13, 225 Raffles City 218
markets and stalls 302 Bukit Timah Nature Reserve 243, Raffles Hotel 33, 209, 220–21, 283
opening hours 302–303 244 Raffles’ Landing Site 210, 216
payment 303 Cathedral of the Good Shepherd Raffles Place 227
photography 303 219 religion 205
regional shops 306–7 Centrepoint, The 239, 240 restaurants 299–301
sales tax 303 Changi Museum 243, 249 St. Andrew’s Cathedral 218
see also Markets; Shopping malls Chettiar Temple 223 Sakya Muni Buddha Gaya 235
Shopping (Singapore) 252–7 Chijmes 218, 258, 259 Science Centre Singapore 243, 245
antiques and crafts 254, 255 Chinatown Complex 225
books and music 256, 257 Chinatown Heritage Centre 224
Clarke Quay 211, 223, 252, 254

GENERAL INDEX 349

Singapore (cont.) Sri Srinivasa Perumal Temple Taman Negara National Park 60, 139,
Sentosa 13, 209, 243, 250–51 (Singapore) 223, 236–7 140, 144–5
Serangoon Road 235, 254 hotels 281
shopping 252–7 Sri Veerakaliamman Temple itinerary 12
Singapore River 210–11 (Singapore) 13, 230, 235 restaurants 296
Sri Mariamman Temple 205, 224
Sri Srinivasa Perumal Temple 223, Srivijaya 40, 93 Tambunan Rafflesia Forest Reserve
236–7 Stadthuys (Melaka) 42, 128, 318–19 (Sabah) 186
Sri Veeramakaliamman Temple 13, Stolen property 324
230, 235 Stone Age 39 Tamils 48
Street Finder 264–73 Strait of Malacca 123, 124 Tamu Besar festival (Kota Belud) 59
Tanglin Mall 238, 241, 254, 255 Tan Keng Yam Tony 51
Tangs 241, 252, 255 history 39, 40, 41 Tan Tock Seng 228
Tanjon Pagar Conservation Area Straits Chinese see Peranakan people Tanglin Mall (Singapore) 238, 241,
225 Straits Settlements 43, 44–5, 47
Telok Ayer Street 226 Streets, squares and roads 254, 255
Temple Street 224–5 Tangs (Singapore) 241, 252, 255
Thian Hock Keng Temple 13, 212, Ann Siang Hill (Singapore) 226 Tanjong Pagar Conservation Area
226, 228–9 Arab Street (Singapore) 232, 233,
three days in 12–13 234, 254 (Singapore) 225
Time Capsule 214 Dhoby Ghaut (Singapore) 240 Tanjung Datu National Park (Sarawak)
Victoria Theater and Concert Hall Emerald Hill (Singapore) 240
214, 216, 258, 259 Golden Triangle (Kuala Lumpur) 166
Wheelock Place (Singapore) 238 12, 63, 80 Taoism 69
World War II 48 Jalan Alor (food street) (Kuala Tapirs 22
Zoo 243, 244 Lumpur) 12, 76 Tasik Chini 140, 142
Jalan Hang Jebat (Jonkers Street) Tasik Dayang Bunting (Pulau
Singapore Arts Festival 258, 259 (Melaka) 130
Singapore Botanic Gardens 13, 47, Jalan India (Kuching) 161 Langkawi) 118, 121
Jalan Tuanku Abdul Rahman (TAR) Tasik Kenyir 146
209, 243, 246–7 (Kuala Lumpur) 76–7 Tawau (Sabah) 199
Singapore Discovery Center 244–5 Jalan Tun Tan Cheng Lock (Heeren Tawau Hills State Park (Sabah) 199
Singapore Dollar 327 Street) (Melaka) 131 Taxes
Singapore Flyer 209, 218 Little India (Georgetown) 13,
Singapore Food Festival 206 108–9 in hotels 277
Singapore Grand Prix 207 Little India (Kuala Lumpur) 63, 76 in shops 253, 255, 303
Singapore International Festival of Little India (Singapore) 13, 209, Taxis 336, 339
231–41, 235 Tea 51, 99
the Arts 206 Merdeka Square (Kuala Lumpur) Telaga Tujuh Falls (Pulau Langkawi)
Singapore International Film Festival 12, 66–7 118, 121
Orchard Road (Singapore) 13, Telephones 328, 329
258, 259 209, 238–9 Television 329
Singapore Zoo 13, 243, 244 Padang (Singapore) 12, 214–15 Telok Ayer Street (Singapore) 226
Smith, Captain Robert 109, 110 Raffles Place (Singapore) 227 Teluk Bahang (Penang) 13, 114
Smoking 285 Serangoon Road (Singapore) 235, itinerary 10
Snake Temple (Penang) 115 254 Teluk Datai (Pulau Langkawi) 121
Social customs 323 Telok Ayer Street (Singapore) 226 Temperature 59, 98
Society 54 Temple Street (Singapore) Temple Street (Singapore) 224–5
Southern Peninsula 123–37 224–5 Temples
Sukarno, President 50 Buddha Tooth Relic (Singapore)
Exploring the Southern Peninsula Sukhothai kingdom 40, 41 13, 225
124–5 Sultan Abdul Samad Building (Kuala Candi Telaga Sembilan (Gunung
hotels 279–80 Lumpur) 47, 60, 66, 68 Jerai) 116
restaurants 294–5 Sultan of Brunei 157, 178 Chan See Shu Yuen (Kuala Lumpur)
Spectator sports Sultan Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque 63, 71
Malaysian Grand Prix (Selangor) 56 (Brunei) 61, 179 Cheng Hoon Teng (Melaka) 130
Malaysian Open Golf Sulu Archipelago (Philippines) 43, Chettiar (Singapore) 223
Championship 56 46 Dhammikarama (Pulau Tikus) 112
Sarawak Regatta (Kuching) 58 Sumangkap (Sabah) 182, 188–9 Hainan (Georgetown) 110–11
Singapore Cricket Club 215 Sumatra 42, 123 Kek Lok Si (Penang) 13, 93, 95, 113
Singapore Grand Prix 207 Sumatran rhinoceros 23, 55, 143, 198 Kek Lok Tong (Kinta Valley) 101
Le Tour de Langkawi (Kuala Sungai Santubong (Sarawak) 164, Khoo Kongsi (Georgetown) 13,
Lumpur) 56 322 107
Spices 42, 45, 305 Suria KLCC (Kuala Lumpur) 12, 79 Kuan Yin (Georgetown) 109
Sport see Outdoor Activities; Swettenham, Sir Frank 47, 73 Kuan Yin Tong (Bintulu) 172
Spectator sports Swiftlets 22 Leong San See (Singapore) 235
Square Tower (Kuching) 162 Syed Alatas Mansion (Georgetown) Ling Nam (Taiping) 101
Sri Maha Mariamman Temple (Kuala 108 Nang Thiam Keng (Pulau Ketam)
Lumpur) 56, 70 Sze Ya Temple (Kuala Lumpur) 69 83
Sri Mariamman Temple Perak Tong (Kinta Valley) 101
(Georgetown) 108 T Sakya Muni Buddha Gaya
Sri Mariamman Temple (Singapore) (Singapore) 235
205, 224 Tabin Wildlife Reserve (Sabah) 198 Sam Poh (Cameron Highlands) 99
Sri Menanti 124, 126, 127 Tadau Kaamatan (Penampang) 57 Sam Poh Footprint (Batu Maung)
hotels 280 Taiping 101 115
Sri Poyyatha Vinayagar Moorthi Sam Poh Tong (Kinta Valley) 101
Temple (Melaka) 130 hotels 279 Snake (Penang) 115
restaurants 293 Sri Kanthaswamy Hindu (Kuala
Pilah) 126