100 MALAYSIA REGION BY REGION
Birch Memorial Clock Tower standing in James Birch, the first British epidemic of influenza during
Ipoh’s Old Town Resident in Perak. A short the mansion’s construction.
distance from the Old Town Grateful for this act, the workers
7 Ipoh center is Darul Ridzuan added a small statue of Smith
Museum. Set in a stately 1920s amid the Hindu deities on the
128 miles (205 km) N of Kuala Lumpur mansion, it briefly recounts the temple roof.
on North–South Hwy. * 625,000. history of Ipoh and the rise of
~ £ @ n 7–9 Jalan Medan the tin-mining industry in Perak. 9 Pulau Pangkor
Istana 3, (05) 255-2772. _
International Orchid Festival (Jun/ The New Town, on the right 51 miles (83 km) SW of Ipoh.
Aug). ∑ ipoh-online.com.my bank of the river, contains * 25,000. ~ @ from Kuala
some splendid Chinese Lumpur. g from Lumut. n Jalan
Nestled in the limestone cliffs shophouses and most of the Titi Panjang, Lumut, (05) 683-4057.
of Kinta Valley, Ipoh is the state city’s accommodations. ∑ pulau-pangkor.com
capital of Perak and Malaysia’s
third-largest city. It was built on E Darul Ridzuan Museum Endowed with a laid-back feel
profits from the valley’s rich tin Jalan Panglima. Tel (05) 241-0048. and some of the best beaches
mines, which were developed Open 9am–5pm daily. on the west coast of the
by immigrant Chinese workers peninsula, Pulau Pangkor is a
in the late 19th century. This 8 Kellie’s Castle popular destination. The island
influx of people bequeathed is inhabited by a thriving fishing
to the city some of the finest 19 miles (30 km) S of Ipoh. Tel (05) community. Most of the local
Peranakan architecture seen 255-2772. @ 67 from Gopeng Station. villages, including Pangkor Town,
in the country. Open 8:30am–7pm daily. & - = the main settlement, lie on its
east coast, while the resorts,
The Kinta River divides A unique fusion of Scottish fishing villages, and stunning
Ipoh into two neat halves. castle and Moorish architecture, powder-white beaches are
Occupying the left bank is the Kellie’s Castle is an unfinished strung out on the west, around
Old Town, the most atmos- colonial structure. It was built by Teluk Nipah. The main beaches
pheric part of the city. It boasts Scotsman William Kellie-Smith, include Pasir Bogak, Coral Bay,
elegant Chinese mansions and who made a fortune in the and Pantai Puteri Dewi, which is
shophouses, as well as grand rubber business in the 19th privately owned and requires an
colonial buildings. Built in 1917, century. The mansion was entrance fee. The beach at Teluk
Ipoh Railway Station is a blend envisioned as a spectacular Ketapang, or Turtle Bay, at the
of late Victorian and Moorish- edifice, complete with an northern end of the island, is
Islamic styles. Directly opposite elevator, and work began in named for the increasingly rare
stands the Dewan Bandaran, or 1915. However, Smith died of sea turtles that come ashore here
Town Hall, a dazzling white pneumonia in 1926, leaving his in the summer to lay their eggs.
Neo-Classical structure. Other grand home incomplete. During
prominent landmarks near the World War II, the castle grounds Offering a change of scene
station include the mock-Tudor were used as an execution site from the beaches is the
Royal Ipoh Club with its half- by the Japanese. Today, it is a historical site of Kota Belanda, a
timbered walls and mullioned crumbling attraction set in a 17th-century Dutch fort 2 miles
windows, and the historical park with fig and banyan trees. (3 km) south of Pangkor Town.
landmark Birch Memorial Clock Also in the grounds is a Hindu The fort was built mainly to
Tower erected in memory of temple built by Smith for his protect Dutch interests in the tin
largely Tamil labor force. The trade from Malay pirates. Be
temple was built after many warned, though, that very little
Tamil workers were killed in an of the fort remains. Pangkor’s
Remains of the striking Kellie’s Castle
For hotels and restaurants see p279 and pp292–3
NORTHWEST PENINSULA 101
Ling Nam Temple, the oldest
Chinese temple in Perak, as well
as All Saints’ Church, the oldest
church in Malaysia. Taiping also
has a number of well-preserved
Chinese shophouses.
E Perak Museum
Tel (05) 242-6906. Open 9am–6pm
daily. Closed 12:15–2:45pm Fri.
w Lenggong Valley
The picturesque Lake Gardens in Taiping, near the foot of Bukit Larut 62 miles (100 km) N of Ipoh on North–
South Hwy. ∑ perak.gov.my/en
compact size makes it ideal for cave to a balcony which offers Designated a UNESCO World
Heritage Site in 2012, the
walking and cycling, although its splendid views across the valley. Lenggong Valley is one of
Malaysia’s most important
densely forested interior remains The temple also doubles as a areas for archaeology. The
valley has four archaeological
largely inaccessible. Chinese art center. A more sites in two clusters that span
almost 2 million years. Lenggong
The resorts arrange fishing recent temple, Kek Lok Tong, is is the oldest known site of
human activity in Malaysia,
and snorkeling day trips to the set in a two-tiered cavern and and also the oldest outside the
African continent.
small islands nearby. Among has a bronze Laughing Buddha.
Lenggong Valley features
these is Pangkor Laut, home to both open-air and cave sites
with Paleolithic tool workshops,
Emerald Bay, one of Malaysia’s as well as evidence of early
technological and cultural
most beautiful beaches, though q Taiping remains from the Paleolithic,
Neolithic, and Metal ages. The
access is restricted to residents 40 miles (70 km) N of Ipoh. * 220,000. valley’s most famous find was
of the island’s exclusive resort. £ from Ipoh. @ n 355 Jalan Kota; the complete skeleton of Perak
Man, which is more than 11,000
(05) 806-9487. _ Taiping Festival years old. It is currently on
display at the National Museum
0 Kinta Valley Month (Sep). ∑ perak.gov.my/en in Kuala Lumpur (see p72). Other
artifacts excavated in the area
9 miles (15 km) N of Ipoh, off Although the name Taiping are displayed in the Lenggong
North–South Hwy. @ from Ipoh. means everlasting peace in Archaeological Museum.
n (05) 255-2772. 0 Chinese, the old state capital of
Perak traces its origins to a Displays at Lenggong
Archaeological Museum
Once rich with tin ore, the turbulent past, marked by bitter
magnificent jungle-topped feuds between rival Chinese
limestone cliffs of Kinta secret societies. The country’s
Valley shelter a number of first tin-mining center and
caves, which, over the the most important town
years, have been in Perak in the mid-19th
converted into Buddhist century, it began to be
temples and are now overshadowed by Ipoh
popular pilgrimage and Kinta Valley in the
centers. The oldest 1890s. Now a low-key
and largest cave town, with a distinctly
temple is Sam Poh Chinese feel, Taiping is
Tong. Established by a Bronze Buddha at best known for its
Buddhist monk in the Kek Lok Tong vast, tranquil Lake
late 19th century, it Gardens, or Taman
features Chinese-style Tasik Taiping. A stroll around the
Mahayana Buddhist images. town will reveal some attractive
More impressive is Perak Tong, colonial architecture, best
one of the largest Chinese exemplified by the District
temples in Malaysia, founded in Office. It is also home to Perak
1926. Its interior walls are Museum, the oldest museum in
adorned with murals done by the country, built in 1883.
artists from across Southeast Housed in a grand colonial
Asia. The main chamber building, it is noted for its
contains over 40 Buddha natural history and ethnological
statues and a huge bell exhibits, as well as a fine
believed to be more than a collection of keris, or traditional
century old. A series of 400 Malay daggers. Next door to
steps leads up and through the the museum is the colorful
102 MALAYSIA REGION BY REGION
e Kuala Kangsar
31 miles (50 km) NW of Ipoh, off
North–South Hwy. * 40,000. £
from Kuala Lumpur and Georgetown.
@ from Ipoh and Taiping. n (05)
529-0894. _ Sultan’s Birthday (Apr
19). ∑ perak.gov.my/en
Kuala Kangsar in Perak has been
the royal capital of the sultans of
Perak for the last 200 years.
In the 1870s, it became the first
foothold for the British in
Malaysia, who initiated their
control of the peninsula by The distinctive clock tower at the Kuala Kangsar town center
installing Residents, or colonial
officers, at the royal courts. mengkuang woven cloth, “the Eton of the East.” Across the
During the same period, the bamboo products, and the road from the Malay College
town became the birthplace celebrated labu, or gourd- stands Pavilion Square Tower.
of Malaysia’s rubber industry shaped earthenware pots. These Built in 1930, this small wooden
when Sir Hugh Low, then British are manufactured in the village three-story structure, designed
Resident in Perak, planted of Sayong, which is located in colonial and Malay styles,
the first seeds of across the river and can enabled the royal family and
rubber. By the 1890s, be reached by boat. The British dignitaries to view polo
however, the town’s new town is dominated matches and other sports
prestige as an admin- by Chinese shophouses events in privacy.
istrative and financial and modern buildings,
center was eclipsed by including most of Kuala U Masjid Ubudiah
the tin-trading towns Kangsar’s restaurants. Jalan Istana.
of Ipoh and Taiping. Marking the center of To the east of Kuala Kangsar,
Today a tranquil town, town are two colonial- along the wide Sungai Perak, an
Kuala Kangsar remains Crafting labu, era structures, the ornamental gateway leads to
steeped in Malay Sayong village distinctive clock tower Masjid Ubudiah, Perak’s royal
tradition and is home to and the District Office, mosque and one of the finest
one of the most attractive royal whose grounds still contain one examples of Islamic architecture
districts in the country, as well as of the town’s first rubber trees. in Malaysia. Gracing the slopes
some fine colonial architecture To the north of the town of the grassy Bukit Chandan, the
and lovely gardens. All the main center is one of the most striking mosque is built in
sights are within walking distance impressive colonial buildings in Moorish style. Its magnificent
of each other and can be Kuala Kangsar, the Malay golden onion-shaped dome is
explored in half a day. College. Opened in 1905 during closely surrounded by four
The small town center can the reign of Sultan Idris, it was soaring white minarets, each
be divided into old and new the first Malay school to provide crowned with its own small
sections. The older part, close to English education to the local dome. Construction of the
the banks of the Sungai Perak, is elite who were hoping to join mosque began during the reign
a good place to buy traditional the colonial administrative of Sultan Idris but was not
Malay handicrafts, such as service, and is now considered completed until 1917, the first
year of the reign of his suc-
cessor, Sultan Abdul Jalil. The
delays were partly due to World
War I, and partly due to two
royal elephants running amok
and destroying the imported
Italian marble floor.
Next to the mosque is the
Royal Mausoleum, where rulers
of Perak have been interred
since the 18th century.
The interior of the mosque is
officially closed to non-Muslims.
However, visitors are free to
explore the grounds of the
mosque and are permitted to
The magnificient Masjid Ubudiah, Perak’s royal mosque photograph the building.
For hotels and restaurants see p279 and pp292–3
NORTHWEST PENINSULA 103
E Istana Iskandariah Façade of the grand Galeri Sultan Azlan Shah, a state museum
Jalan Istana.
Perched at the summit of Bukit panels and intricate friezes. The prestigious girls’ college Sekolah
Chandan, overlooking the roof features five ridges and is Raja Perempuan Mazwin, or
Sungai Perak and Masjid surmounted by a symbolic row Mazwin School for Ladies, for
Ubudiah, the modern Istana of bananas. The ground floor of several decades. The palace has
Iskandariah was built in 1933 the palace features extensive now been converted into the
and is the official residence of verandas that allow cool breezes Galeri Sultan Azlan Shah, or
the present royal family. Set to flow through the entire space. Sultan Azlan Shah Museum, a
amid rolling lawns, the imposing The erstwhile palace now houses Perak state museum. Exhibits
white marble palace, with its the Perak Royal Museum, showcase traditional handicrafts
series of towers topped by popularly known as Muzium Di of the state including a fine
golden domes, reflects a fusion Raja, which traces the history of collection of traditional keris, or
of Moorish and 1930s colonial Perak and its royal family through Malay daggers, and examples of
Art Deco styles. A less impressive images and artifacts. tekat embroidery. Most
annex was added on the significant, however, is the
southern side in 1984. Although E Istana Hulu museum’s extensive collection
the palace is not open to visitors, Jalan Istana. Open 9:30am–5pm of royal gifts, photographs, and
a stroll along the two small daily. & other personal effects belong-
roads that form its boundary ing to Azlan Shah, the present
provides excellent views of the The beautiful Victorian-style Sultan of Perak, who has also
building and its lawns, especially Istana Hulu is another former served as the ninth Yang
from the riverside. palace that was built in 1903 for di-Pertaun Agong, or King of
Sultan Idris, the 28th sultan of Malaysia, from 1984 to 1994, a
E Istana Kenangan Perak. When the palace ceased rotating position held by sultans
Jalan Istana. Open 9:30am–5pm to function as a royal residence, of the various states.
Sat–Thu. Closed 12:15–2:45pm Fri. & it became the location of the
Just to the southwest of Istana
Iskandariah stands the smaller
but more captivating Istana
Kenangan, or Palace of
Memories. This palace was built
in 1931 for Sultan Iskandar Shah
(1876–1938) as a temporary
royal residence while the
Istana Iskandariah was being
constructed. It is a superb
example of traditional Malay
architecture. The structure is built
entirely of wood without the use
of an architectural plan, nails,
or steel, and is decorated with
geometric-patterned bamboo
The beautiful Istana Kenangan, built in traditional Malay style, now housing the Perak Royal Museum
Old rickshaws at the Cheong Fatt Tze Mansion in Georgetown, Penang
106 MALAYSIA REGION BY REGION
r Georgetown P Weld Quay Clan Piers
Jalan Pengkalan Weld. @ from
Located on the northeastern coast of Penang, and a UNESCO Komtar. g
World Heritage Site since 2007, Georgetown is one of
Malaysia’s most visited cities. Founded in 1786 by Captain South of Little India, along Weld
Francis Light as a base for the British East India Company in Quay and projecting into the
the Malay states, the town, which was named after the Prince southern channel of the Strait of
of Wales, soon developed into the state’s economic and Malacca, stand long rows of
cultural hub. An essentially Chinese city today, Georgetown jetties on which are built low
has an authentic Straits Settlement atmosphere, enhanced by houses, religious shrines, and
its well-preserved colonial architecture, traditional wooden shops. These are the clan jetties
shophouses, and the diverse cuisine developed by its Indian, of Georgetown, dating back to
Malay, Peranakan, Thai, and European communities. the late 19th century. There are
seven such jetties, all but one
home to a different Chinese
P Fort Cornwallis is of Dutch origin and dates JALAN S U LTA N LEBUH FARQUHAR
Lebuh Light. @ from Komtar on Cat back to 1603. AHMAD
SHAH
Tel (04) 261-0262. Open 9am–7pm In a small traffic circle to J A L A N A RG Y L L JAL AN Cheong Fatt
daily. & - the southeast of the fort stands
The spot where Sir Francis the Victoria Memorial Clock KOMJ L NTJP.AAHAELREARJICNAFHLFAOI NNODNPICHHLEKEUBEEJTULJNCTANHSHOL.AOLNMJDNOEANKaLBCOAHrUYkNOAJHWeAHASLtRJARRLANNGIS.TLYSBA.ELAULBJHOUNAGHR1I0KC0IAMMBCMSeBTtioBnrnzELseEtegJRqEreALaLuaBMLtLYlAeUiNaHnP IsNLiTHoTEeAaLnImLiTLEnTHpEBAalBLUneI UH HJALAN TRANSFER
Light (see p109) stepped ashore Tower, an elegant colonial PENANG
in 1786, Fort Cornwallis, in the edifice crowned by a Moorish-
colonial core of Georgetown, style dome. Built in 1897
is a great place to start an with funds donated by a JALAN
exploration of the city on Georgetown towkay, or
foot, by bicycle, or by Chinese businessman, CINTRA
trishaw. The original fort it commemorates the
was a simple palm-tree diamond jubilee of Queen JALAN LEBUH
K UALA KANGSAR
stockade, but in 1805 this Victoria’s reign. The memo-
was replaced by a star- rial stands 60 ft (18 m) high
shaped brick and mortar in honor of the 60 years of JALAN
structure with a moat the monarch’s reign. To DRUM
and crenellated walls to the west of the fort are the CHWEE
shelter cannon guarding parklands of the Padang LEBUH JALAN LEBUH CARNAVON
TEK SOON RIA
the harbor. As the first Kota Lama, or the Old City L
E
O LME BEUL AHY U
J LEBUH
headquarters of the Green. Among the fine N
British East India colonial buildings to the A
Company in Penang, south and west
Victoria Memorial G
Clock Tower LA
N
AXW JALAN PE
M
Fort Cornwallis con- are the Supreme Court, JALAN ELL RANGINAN
LEBUH PRANG
tained barracks, a signal the Dewan Undangan Negeri, MAGAZ
UH PRES NOORDI I
TYE SIN SGRAVE
station, administrative offices, or State Legislative Building, and IN N
N L EBUH
E
Airport
and a Christian chapel. Today, the grand Dewan Bandaran, or 7.5 miles (12 km)
little remains of the fort apart City Hall. To the north, facing LEB
UH
from its outer fortifications. the northern channel of the
The inner area is a park liberally Strait of Malacca, runs the L E B
scattered with cannon. The Esplanade, named Jalan Tun
oldest of these, Seri Rambai, Syed Sheh Barakbah. clan, originally from the Tong
An district of China’s Fujian
province. The oldest and largest
is the Chew Jetty, founded in the
1870s, followed by the Lee, Tan,
Yeoh, and Koay jetties. The most
recent, the Mixed Clan and Peng
Aun jetties, date from the 1960s.
Six are home to Sino-Malaysian
Buddhist clans, while the last,
Koay Jetty, is Muslim, being
home to around 30 Chinese Hui
Muslim families. All the jetties
except Koay terminate in small
temples. The most important
one, on Chew Jetty, is dedicated
The city skyline, with modern pavilions along the waterfront to the Jade Emperor.
For hotels and restaurants see p279 and pp292–3
GEORGETOWN 107
One of the jetties at Weld Quay Clan Piers Khoo Kongsi Temple VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Medan Cannon. @ from Komtar.
E&O Open 9am–5pm daily. & Practical Information
∑ khookongsi.com.my Penang Island. * 220,000.
Hotel n Komtar. _ Penang Inter-
Penang’s greatest historical national Dragon Boat Festival
attraction, the gloriously ornate (Jun), Pesta Pulau Penang
Khoo Kongsi Temple, was (Nov–Dec), Chingay (Dec).
founded in 1835 by wealthy ∑ visitpenang.gov.my
Hokkien merchants of the
influential Khoo clan. The Transport
temple’s full name, Leong San k £ to Butterworth, then ferry.
Tong Khoo Kongsi, or Dragon @ free CAT bus from Komtar for
Mountain Hall, was chosen Georgetown. g
in honor of the merchants’
ancestral village of Leong San clan took this as an indication of
in southern China. divine wrath at the building of a
temple too grand for ancestor
T GREEN HILL worship, so the temple was built
H again, but on a less lavish scale.
A Dewan Rebuilt in Qing dynasty style,
U with elaborate wall carvings,
H detailed frescoes, and fine roof
decorations, the building is
LLEEI BGT Bandaran JALAN PADANG KOTA JALA N TUN SYED SHEH adorned with painted dragons
Penang and other auspicious figures.
Supreme BAR A K B A H
Cathedral of the LEBUH Court Library Fort Altar at the Khoo Kongsi Temple, decorated
Assumption LEBUH Cornwallis with intricate carvings
FARQUHAR
LIGHT U Masjid Melayu
MUNTRI CINTA Penang St.George’s LEBUH Lebuh Aceh. from Lebuh Chulia.
Museum and Church PENANG LEBUH One of the oldest buildings in
Georgetown, Masjid Melayu
LO R O N G Art GalleryLEBUH KAPITAN KELING LEBUH Clocktower mosque was founded in 1808
Kuan Yin KING by a prosperous Sumatran pep-
LEBUH BISHOP UNION JALAN PENGKALAN WEL D per merchant. It was originally
built to serve the burgeoning
CHULIA Temple LEBUH GEREJA Pinang PANTAI L Muslim community of Lebuh
CHINA Peranakan D Aceh, Penang’s first urban Malay
LORONG PASAR Mansion village, and was a center of Hajj
EOBWUNHI travel in the 19th century. The
nearby Masjid Kapitan Keling
N was built by Indian-Muslim
migrants in 1801 and has been
G added to over the centuries.
Masjid Kapitan The mosque, a 5-minute walk
from Lebuh Chulia, has an
B U CL EKBI NUGHH AKMelingJALAN MASJIDBSUrHiLMETBeaUmriHapmlemanLEBUHLiPtAtSlAeR India U H LEBUH Egyptian-style minaret and an
LEB GAT LEBUH GAT Achenese-style roof. The hole
Syed Alatas halfway up its minaret was the
Mansion L E GEREJA result of a cannonball fired in a
clan riot in Penang.
AH GAT CHINA
QUEE
LEBUH ARMENI CHULIA MPP Bus LEBUH
Station
AN
Masjid Yeoh PASAR
Melayu Kongsi Yellow and Blue
LEBUH GAT LEBUH ARMENIANVICTORIA Bus Station
TLOOHR OANKGA Khoo Kongsi Ferry Terminal
Temple
Weld Quay
LEBUH Clan Piers
ACHEH
BRIDGE BUTTERWORTH
JALAN P E N GKALAN WELD 300
0 meters 300
Georgetown 0 yards
1 Fort Cornwallis
2 Weld Quay Clan Piers Kongsis are designed to function
3 Khoo Kongsi Temple as places of worship and
4 Masjid Melayu community centers for members
5 Syed Alatas Mansion of the clan that built them. This
6 Masjid Kapitan Keling kongsi, however, became a
7 Sri Mariamman Temple center not just for the Khoos, but
8 Little India for four other powerful Hokkien-
9 Pinang Peranakan Mansion speaking families, the Cheah,
0 Kuan Yin Temple Lim, Tan, and Yeoh clans, who
q St. George’s Church ran an influential secret society.
w Penang Museum and
The original temple, thought
Art Gallery too modest for the thriving
e Cathedral of the Assumption Khoo clan, was demolished in
r 100 Cintra Street 1894. A magnificent new
t Hainan Temple temple was constructed over
y Cheong Fatt Tze Mansion the next eight years, but it
u E & O Hotel burned to the ground within a
month of its completion. The
For keys to symbols see back flap
108 MALAYSIA REGION BY REGION
The 19th-century Syed Alatas Mansion altered on several occasions, Hindu temple. Dedicated to the
most notably in 1910 when deity Mariamman, or Great
E Syed Alatas Mansion it was given its present Powerful Mother, this is
128 Lebuh Armenian. @ appearance with the addition of Penang’s oldest Hindu temple.
Syed Mohammed Alatas was a Indian-style copper domes,
wealthy and influential turrets, and a minaret. A Established by pious local
19th-century Achenese madrassa, or religious school, Tamils as a simple shrine, it
businessman and leader of was added in 1916. In 1935, the became a fully-fledged temple
Penang’s Malay community. In height of the central prayer hall in 1833. Artisans were brought
the 1860s he built a magnificent was doubled, allowing more from Madras to create images of
rumah besar, or great house, on natural light and air into the the goddess Mariamman in all
Armenian Street where he lived interior. The most recent her aspects. Subsequently, a
with his family until his death in renovation took place in 2003, 23-ft- (7-m-) high gopuram was
the early 20th century. Set in a when Arabic calligraphy was added, with sculptures of about
walled compound, the two- added to the interior of the 38 Hindu deities. A statue of Lord
story Syed Alatas Mansion is an main dome and to the walls. Murugan, adorned with gold
eclectic mix of Malay, Indian, Women entering the mosque are and diamonds, was also installed.
and European architectural and required to wear headscarves.
cultural influences and is con- Several times a year, Sri
sidered one of the finest Sri Mariamman Temple Mariamman is taken out of the
examples of upper-class Malay Jalan Masjid Kapitan Keling. @ temple in a wooden chariot,
Muslim residences in Penang. Open 6am–9pm daily. _ Thaipusam and carried in procession
(Jan/Feb), Navaratri (Oct/Nov). through the streets of Little India.
U Masjid Kapitan Keling The most important occasion is
Jalan Masjid Kapitan Keling. On the opposite side of the Navaratri, a nine-night celeb-
Tel (04) 261-6663. @ n Islamic street from Kapitan Keling ration in October or November
Information Center. Open 3–5pm Fri, Mosque is the Sri Mariamman when devotees worship female
1–5pm Sat–Thu. Closed prayer times. Temple, a typical southern Indian deities, such as Durga, Saraswati,
temple with an elaborately Lakshmi, and Mariamman.
Masjid Kapitan Keling, the carved and painted gopuram, or Penang’s annual Thaipusam (see
oldest and best-known historic tiered entrance gateway of a p35) procession also begins here.
mosque in Penang, was
founded around 1800 by P Little India
Caudeer Mohudeen. He was Lebuh Pasar. @ 0
a prominent member of the ∑ tourism penang.gov.my
island’s Indian Muslim com-
munity and bore the title Kapitan Penang’s colorful and vibrant
Keling, or Captain of the Kelings. Little India, throbbing with
Keling was a term employed at antiquity and tradition, dates
that time to describe Tamil back to the early 19th century,
Muslims, also called Chulia, who when Indian migrants to
formed the bulk of Penang’s Penang began to settle in and
Indian Muslims. Mohudeen, around Lebuh Pasar, then called
officially named headman of the Kadai Teru, or shop street.
Chulias in 1801, died in 1834. Since most of the early migrants
His tomb is located at the were Tamils, the area was com-
nearby Kampung Kolam. The monly known as Little Madras,
mosque has been restored and but over the years other
communities also moved in.
Soon the enclave acquired a
distinctive south Asian feel and
gained its current sobriquet.
The ornate domes and graceful façade of Masjid Kapitan Keling
For hotels and restaurants see p279 and pp292–3
GEORGETOWN 109
The narrow streets of Little India Ornate interior of the Pinang Peranakan Mansion
are lined with shops selling all
kinds of south Asian produce, fortune, and fertility, she is 1886, to mark the centenary of
from saris and gold jewelry to portrayed with 18 arms. Feast the founding of Penang and to
flower garlands and images of days are held to honor Kuan honor Sir Francis Light, a small
Hindu deities. The wide range of Yin’s birthday, initiation, and Greek-style domed pavilion was
shops and services includes attainment of nirvana. Even built on the church grounds. The
astrologers, millers, grocers, fruit- today, the temple bustles with tall octagonal steeple of the
sellers, herb dealers, and money worshipers carrying ritual Neo-Classical church once
changers. The aroma of spice, offerings of flowers, oil, and dominated the town, although
incense, and curry fills the air, food, especially on temple days. today the graceful structure is
while the bells of trishaw drivers These fall on the first and 15th overshadowed by towering
and constant bustle of the day of every lunar month, and commercial buildings. Farther
crowds make the ambience on the 19th day of the second, west on Lebuh Farquhar is the
quintessentially Indian. sixth, and ninth lunar months. Protestant Cemetery, where
Puppet shows and Chinese Sir Francis Light is buried in a
Although Bahasa Malaysia and opera performances are held on gazebo-like tomb shaded by
English are the main spoken these days to honor the goddess. frangipani trees.
languages of Penang, here, the
rolling, fast-paced southern 5 St. George’s Church St. George’s Church with its Doric columns
Indian tongues of Malayalam Lebuh Farquhar. Tel (04) 261-2739. and octagonal steeple
and Tamil predominate. With @ Open 8:30am–12:30pm &
attractions that include 1:30–4:30pm Tue–Sat, 8:30am–
mosques, Hindu temples, and 4:30pm Sun. 7 5
Chinese clan enclaves, as well as
a host of restaurants, Little India The oldest Anglican church in
is now a great draw for food- Southeast Asia, St. George’s
lovers, heritage enthusiasts, and Church was constructed in 1818
visitors who simply want to soak to serve the growing Christian
up the atmosphere. community of Penang. Designed
by military engineer and painter
P Pinang Peranakan Captain Robert Smith, it was
Mansion built by the British East India
29 Lebuh Gereja. Tel (04) 264 2929. Company using convict labor. In
Open 9:30am–5pm daily. &
Sir Francis Light
This private museum, a
re-creation of an ornate Born in Suffolk, England, in 1740, Francis Light
Peranakan villa from the joined the British East India Company in 1765.
19th century, is a fascinating Directed to find a suitable island base for their
glimpse into times past. Full of commercial activities in Southeast Asia, he chose
antique furniture and jewelry, it Pulau Penang, which he then acquired from the
is well worth booking a tour Sultan of Kedah in 1786. Having successfully
guide to fully understand the established a colony, he served as its super-
exhibits on display, from intendent until his death in 1794 of malaria. He was
beautiful Nyonya clothes to buried at the Protestant Cemetery at Lebuh Farquhar.
the ornate furniture that As closely linked to Penang’s growth as Sir Stamford
decorates every room. Raffles is to Singapore’s, Sir Francis Light is still
honored as a founding father. His statue now
Kuan Yin Temple Sir Francis Light stands at Georgetown’s Fort Cornwallis.
Jalan Masjid Kapitan Keling. @
Open 9am–6pm daily.
Dedicated to Kuan Yin, or the
goddess of mercy, this temple
was originally constructed as a
shared Hokkien and Cantonese
temple and community center.
Its foundation stone was laid in
1800, making it one of the
oldest Chinese temples in the
province of Penang.
Kuan Yin is perhaps the
most worshiped of Chinese
deities, and also much revered
by Buddhists and Taoists.
Associated with peace, good
110 MALAYSIA REGION BY REGION
The stately gray exterior of the Cathedral of the Assumption E 100 Cintra Street
100 Cintra Street. Tel (04) 261-3321.
E Penang Museum and originally from Phuket, had fled Open 11am–6pm Tue–Sun. & 8
Art Gallery to Kuala Kedah in 1781 with -=
Lebuh Farquhar. Tel (04) 261-3144. Bishop Garnault of Siam Located in the heart of
Chinatown, this is a Peranakan-
@ Open 9am–5pm daily. & 7 to escape religious perse- influenced mansion that was
built in 1897 by a local woman
∑ penangmuseum.gov.my cution. In Kuala Kedah, they of Thai origin. Partially destroyed
by fire in 1984, it was rebuilt
Located next to St. George’s were joined by Catholics of using as much of the surviving
structure as possible, and was
Church in the former Penang Portuguese descent. The group, reopened in 1999 as a shopping
center specializing in antiques
Free School, this small museum led by Garnault, arrived in and artifacts. It also has a small
tea shop.
houses an excellent collection of Georgetown on the eve of the
Since then it has undergone
maps, records, and Feast of the Assumption several changes, and today
the first floor of the three-story
displays charting the in 1786. His mission building functions as an antique
and curio center offering a
growth of Penang was later relocated fascinating selection of
19th-century furniture, pictures,
since the arrival of to Penang. porcelain, brassware, calligraphy,
paintings, and carpets. The
Sir Francis Light. Although this second floor functions as a
budget guesthouse, while the
The first floor imposing gray third floor has been converted
into a folk museum, focusing on
showcases the structure, built the history and culture of
Penang, with special emphasis
various ethnic along classical on the Peranakan, or Straits
Chinese community. Indian and
groups that British East India Company lines, was not Malay items are also on display.
constitute Penang’s insignia, Penang Museum and erected at Lebuh Hainan Temple
Lebuh Muntri. Tel (04) 262-0202.
population, with Art Gallery Farquhar until 1857, Popularly known as the Hainan
Temple, the bustling Thean
exhibits of clothing, it was nonetheless Ho Keong, which means
Temple of the Heavenly Queen,
photographs, household items, named in memory of the arrival is dedicated to Mar Chor,
the patron saint of seafarers.
and artifacts associated with the of these first parishioners. The Commonly known as Matsu in
China and Thien Hau in Vietnam,
island’s Peranakan, Malay, cathedral houses Penang’s only
Chinese, and Indian commu- pipe organ. In 1955, it was
nities. The second floor is elevated by Vatican decree to
devoted to Penang’s history with the status of Cathedral of the
special emphasis on the colonial Diocese of Penang.
era, the Japanese occupation,
the Chinese and Indian settle-
ments, and the gaining of
independence. The art gallery
features 19th-century paintings
of Penang by Robert Smith, the
architect of St. George’s Church.
5 Cathedral of the Chinese worshiper praying at the colorful altar at Hainan Temple
Assumption
Lebuh Farquhar. 7 ^ 5
The city’s premier Catholic place
of worship, the stately Cathedral
of the Assumption was founded
to serve the Eurasian Catholics
who had moved to Penang
following Sir Francis Light’s
establishment of a British colony
here. The Eurasians, who were
For hotels and restaurants see p279 and pp292–3
GEORGETOWN 111
colonial architecture, it boasts a
830-ft (253-m) seafront lawn –
the longest in the world – and
its suites overlook manicured
lawns and lush gardens with a
panoramic view across the Strait
of Malacca. The Victory Annexe,
opened in 2013, is very much in
keeping with its surrounds.
Long a center of Penang’s
social life, the hotel has hosted
eminent guests such as Noel
Coward, Rudyard Kipling,
Hermann Hesse, and Douglas
Fairbanks. Somerset Maugham,
another visitor, referred to the
Cheong Fatt Tze Mansion, now a luxurious hotel E & O in several of his writings.
Today, it is a great place to eat a
the goddess is worshiped, in louvered and stained-glass light tiffin lunch followed by
particular, wherever the Chinese windows in the Western style, afternoon tea, or to sip a cocktail
settled throughout Southeast cast-iron balusters, and at sunset under the rain trees on
Asia. The temple was initially geometric-patterned floor tiling. the hotel’s private veranda.
established as a clan house for Today, the mansion operates as
overseas Chinese from Hainan an opulent and unique
Island in 1866, although the homestay heritage hotel.
current building dates from
1895. During its centenary P E & O Hotel
celebrations in 1995, the temple 10 Lebuh Farquhar. Tel (04) 222-2000.
was carefully restored and a 0 - = ∑ e-o-hotel.com
new frontage was added with The grande dame of Penang’s
ornate carvings and distinctive hotels, the Eastern & Oriental (see
swirling dragon pillars. p279) is not just one of the most
luxurious, but also one of the
P Cheong Fatt Tze Mansion great historic hotels of Southeast
14 Lebuh Leith. Tel (04) 262-0006. Asia. Popularly called the E & O, it
& for tours. 8 11am, 1:30pm & was established in 1884 by the
3pm daily. ∑ cheongfatttze Armenian Sarkies brothers, who
mansion.com went on to found Singapore’s
This spectacular mansion was Raffles Hotel and Rangoon’s Georgetown’s historic Eastern &
built by Cheong Fatt Tze, a famous Strand. A landmark in Oriental Hotel
young Hakka Chinese entre-
preneur who eventually became Five Foot Ways
one of Southeast Asia’s richest
businessmen. Although he built Originally used by builders from Guangdong in China,
several grand houses, this 1904 this style of Chinese shophouse has long been associated
mansion is considered the most with the former Straits Settlements of Singapore, Penang,
magnificent. Fatt Tze lived here and Melaka. The widespread presence of Five Foot
with three of his favorite wives, Ways in Singapore and urban Malaysia is attributed to
raising eight sons. The house fell Sir Stamford Raffles, who decreed that all shophouses should
into disrepair after his death in have verandas that form continuous and open passages.
1916, but it has since been
beautifully restored, winning the Characterized by
prestigious UNESCO Asia Pacific load-bearing gable walls
Heritage Award for authentic and massive roof beams
restoration in 2000. Said to that span the building,
be the largest traditional these shophouses
courtyard house in the region, extend over the narrow
the building conforms to the sidewalks forming a
principles of geomancy, and sort of covered walkway
blends Chinese and Western and providing shelter
from the sun and the
monsoon rains. The
architectural concepts. Painted a sidewalk can be further
deep blue, the mansion features shaded by lowering split
Qing dynasty latticework and Shop signs over a Five Foot Way bamboo blinds.
filigree ornamentation with
112 MALAYSIA REGION BY REGION
t Dhammikarama Upagutta, an arhat widely monks and serves the small
local Thai community, as well
Temple revered in Burma for his powers. as both Theravada and
A golden Pagoda Bell Tower Mahayana Buddhist devotees
Burma Lane, off Jalan Burma, Pulau opened in May 2011. from across the island. Legend
Tikus, 2 miles (3 km) NW of has it that the temple’s first
abbot, a monk named
Georgetown. @ Open daily. y Wat Chaya- Phorthan Kuat, or honorable
_ Burmese New Year (Apr). father Kuat, was fond of local
laksa or spicy noodle soup, and
The 200-year-old Burmese mangkalaram even today devotees bring
bowls of laksa to present as
enclave at Pulau Tikus is home Burma Lane, off Jalan Burma, Pulau offerings at his shrine.
to a spectacular Theravada Tikus, 2 miles (3 km) NW of
Buddhist monastery, founded in Georgetown. @ Open 6am–5:30pm The manicured grounds of the Penang
1803 and known originally as daily. _ Songkran (Apr). Botanic Gardens
the Nandy Molah Burmese
u Penang Botanic
Temple. Now called the Popularly known as the Temple Gardens
Dhammikarama Temple in of the Reclining Buddha, this is 5 miles (8 km) W on the outskirts of
Georgetown. @ n (04) 227-0428.
honor of the dhamma, or the largest Buddhist temple in Open 5am–8pm daily. 8 by prior
arrangement. 7 special walkways.
corpus of Buddhist teachings, Penang. The name means - = _ Flora Festival (Jun).
∑ botanicalgardens.penang.
this is Penang’s oldest Buddhist temple of auspicious victory. gov.my
place of worship. The building dates from 1845, Established by the colonial
administration in 1884 on the
The temple gateway, well when the Thai community site of a disused quarry, the
beautifully landscaped Penang
guarded by a pair of stucco asked the government for land Botanic Gardens are undoubt-
edly the finest botanical gar-
elephants, leads to a compound on which to build a monastery. dens in Peninsular Malaysia.
Spread across 72 acres (29 ha) of
shaded by a peepul tree and The land was granted by the land dominated by an attractive
waterfall, rain forest-covered
dotted with mythical figures then Governor of Penang, hills, and a small river, the
gardens provide protected
and religious icons, among W L Butterworth. The temple habitat for rare species of plant
and also serve as a green lung
them myriad Buddhas, flying houses a Reclining Buddha for Georgetown and its people.
beings, and chimeras. The statue, constructed in 1958 to The gardens owe their beauty
to the untiring work of Charles
ornate red-tiled roof of mark the 2,500th anni- Curtis, who was the first to
nurture and transform the
the temple, embellished versary of the birth of former granite quarry into a lush
tropical garden and nursery. In
with gleaming gold Gautama Buddha. 1946, after World War II ended,
filigree work, is Burmese Called Phra Chaiya
in inspiration and visible Mongkol, the statue
from afar. The complex measures an impressive
includes monks’ quarters, 108 ft (33 m) in length
a wishing pool where and is said to be the
visitors toss coins that third-longest Reclining
are later used towards Buddha in the world.
temple maintenance, Detail on Wat Besides the main
and a peaceful prayer Chayamangkalaram shrine hall, the
hall housing a large temple includes a
Burmese-style image of the Thai-style gilded stupa, or
Buddha. Within the hall are rows chedi, and fierce temple
of finely carved arhats, or guardians called yaksas. The
spiritual practitioners who had whole complex is distinctively
attained nirvana, created by central Thai in style, down to
Burmese artisans. The temple the gold-painted pagodas. The
also has a shrine to the Arahant temple is attended to by Thai
Ornate and colorful façade of the Buddhist Wat Chayamangkalaram
For hotels and restaurants see p279 and pp292–3
NORTHWEST PENINSULA 113
the Penang Botanic Gardens
were separated from their
parent establishment in
Singapore and began function-
ing as an independent entity.
Besides their educational
and preservational role, the
gardens are a popular spot for
locals to exercise, jog, or walk in
the refreshingly unpolluted air.
There are two paved trails, the
shorter Lower Circle and the
longer Upper Circle. Surrounding
these are less accessible
forested areas. Botanical
attractions include the Aroid The rich variety of fauna that blankets the Penang Hill
Walkway, featuring plants of the
philodendron family, the 1893 and took Burmese, (830-m) hill still offers a
ornamental plant house, the Chinese, and Thai artisans more refreshing retreat from the
fern house, cactus house, and than two decades to complete. tropical heat of Georgetown.
lily pool. Among the species of Kek Lok Si’s most celebrated Sir Francis Light, the founder of
rare trees seen here are the feature is the magnificent Penang, is said to have ordered
cannonball tree, the candle tree, seven-tier Pagoda of King the construction of a horse track
the baobab, ebony, and the Rama VI, completed in 1930 to the top of the hill in 1788.
argus pheasant tree. The and named after the Thai mon- Today visitors can ride up the hill
gardens also house a nursery of arch who laid the foundation on the Penang Hill Railway, a
commercial plants, such as stone. Also known as the steep funicular line built in 1923
pepper, cloves, and nutmeg. pagoda of ten thousand and still in operation; the original
Buddhas, it stands at a height of wooden coaches can be seen on
i Kek Lok Si 100 ft (30 m). This impressive display. Enthusiastic walkers can
Temple pagoda was designed in opt for a 3-hour hike up a tarred
three different styles, with an track that begins at the quarry at
Ayer Itam, 5 miles (8 km) W of octagonal Chinese-style the entrance of the Penang
Georgetown. @ n (04) 828- base, middle tiers of Thai Botanic Gardens.
3317. Open 8:30am–5:30pm architecture, and a
daily. & - = _ Loy Burmese-style crown, The hill is an area rich in
Krathong (Nov). symbolic of the unity of biodiversity and has a number
Mahayana and Theravada of rare endemic species.
Dipterocarp and coniferous
The largest and Buddhism. The trees are common, as are tree
most celebrated temple grounds ferns. The summit offers pano-
Buddhist temple in contain lovely ramic views across the nearby
Malaysia, Kek Lok Si, gardens and sacred Strait of Malacca to Penang
or the temple of ponds, including Bridge, the mainland, and
supreme bliss, is Bronze statue of Kuan Yin, the Sacred Turtle Butterworth. Also on the
spread across a Kek Lok Si Temple Pond where the summit are a colorful Hindu
hilltop overlooking devout release temple and a mosque.
the district of Ayer Itam. Long captive turtles as an act of
sacred to the island’s Chinese spiritual liberation. Dominating
residents, the hills of Ayer Itam all is a massive bronze statue of
are believed by locals to be Kuan Yin, the goddess of mercy.
geomantically fortuitous and
a suitable retreat for Taoist o Penang Hill
devotees seeking immortality.
The temple was initially Ayer Itam. £ Funicular Railway,
envisioned by the head monk of 6:30am–10pm Mon–Fri,
the Kuan Yin Temple (see p109) 6:30am–11pm Sat & Sun. @ to
on Jalan Masjid Kapitan Kling Funicular Railway terminal. &
and supported by the Chinese
consul in Penang. Later, the idea Malaysia’s oldest hill station,
was backed by the Qing Penang Hill, also known as Bukit
Emperor Guangxu, who gave its Bendera or Flagstaff Hill, was
foundation an imperial tablet first developed in 1897.
and 70,000 volumes of Buddhist Although only one hotel
sutras. Construction began in functions today, the 2,720-ft The Penang Hill Funicular Railway, Malaysia
114 MALAYSIA REGION BY REGION
Boats and jet-skis off the beaches of Batu Ferringhi
p Batu Ferringhi specially designed garden trails of Muka Head, passing the
lead to 11 separate gardens that scenic Ailing and Duyong bays,
9 miles (14 km) NW of Georgetown. feature special plant collections heading southwest into the
@ 93 from Georgetown. 0 = with signboards indicating their Pantai Aceh Forest Reserve and
common and botanical names beyond to Kerachut Beach.
Also known as Foreigner’s and their various uses.
Rock, Batu Ferringhi is Penang’s Just south of the bus station,
premier beachside destination Y Tropical Spice Garden Craft Batik is a handicraft work-
and one of the most developed Open 9am–6pm daily. & free for shop and showroom where
beach strips anywhere in children below 4 years. - = visitors can observe batik being
Malaysia. Facing northwest into made and also shop for sarongs
the Strait of Malacca, the shore a Teluk Bahang and batik paintings. Nearby is
at Batu Ferringhi was once a the Penang Butterfly Farm,
delightful coconut-lined sandy 12 miles (19 km) NW of Georgetown. where more than 100 species of
strand and a popular destination @ 93 from Georgetown. butterflies, along with spiders
for hippies in the 1970s. and other insects, are on view
At the western end of Penang’s amid attractive gardens with
However, over the past northern beaches sits the small varied flora, waterfalls, and
three decades, it has changed fishing village of Teluk Bahang, ponds. South of Teluk Bahang,
dramatically into a bustling or sunburned bay. The detritus the well-maintained Forest
coastal strip, lined with high- of an active fishing industry Recreation Park offers further
rise hotels and a wide range litters the sand, and while the good opportunities for trekking
of restaurants and shops. beach is not suitable for and camping in the lush jungle.
Although the beach is clean, swimming, it is an excellent
the sea is a little murky and place to enjoy fresh seafood. O Penang Butterfly Farm
filled with jellyfish. The waves Tracks lead westward from the Tel (04) 805-1253. Open 9am–5pm
are not high enough for surfing, village to the rocky promontory Mon–Fri, 9am–5:30pm Sat & Sun. &
but this is a good place to - ∑ butterfly-insect.com
sunbathe and relax.
Fishing boats moored along the shores of Teluk Bahang
The beach was hit by the
2004 tsunami, but has since
completely recovered. Today,
Batu Ferringhi’s easy accessibil-
ity from Georgetown means
that it is popular with day
visitors and usually busy, espe-
cially at weekends. Prices are
especially low on weekdays and
off-season months (Mar–Oct).
Just a mile (2 km) west of Batu
Ferringhi is the Tropical Spice
Garden, where visitors can view
more than five hundred species
of plants from Malaysia,
Thailand, and Indonesia. Three
For hotels and restaurants see p279 and pp292–3
NORTHWEST PENINSULA 115
s Penang National honors the memory of a Offerings at the Sam Poh Footprint Temple
Park venerated Chinese Buddhist at Batu Maung
monk named Chor Soo Kong
Jalan Hassan Abbas, Teluk Bahang, who is said to have had healing f Batu Maung
12 miles (19 km) NW of Georgetown. powers. He was born in China’s
Tel (04) 881-3530. @ 101 or 93 from Fujian Province during the reign 9 miles (15 km) S of Georgetown.
Georgetown. Open 7am–5pm daily. of the 11th-century Song @&0-=
& small fee to use canopy walk. Emperor Renzong. Chor Soo
Kong later became an ascetic A Chinese fishing village in the
Located at the northwestern seeking spiritual enlightenment, southeast of Pulau Penang,
tip of the island, with its main which he attained under the Batu Maung is known for its
entrance close to Teluk Bahang, guidance of Zen master Ming fine fresh seafood restaurants
Penang National Park was Song. Soon after he practiced as and a small aquarium. It is also
founded in April 2003. This is a doctor, catering to the needs famous for the Sam Poh
only the second national park of the poor. Chor Soo Kong Footprint Temple, named for a
located within the peninsula. retired to a monastery on Peng strange footprint-shaped
Although fairly small and far less Lai Mountain, where he was indentation in a rock. This
well known than Taman Negara, sanctified after his death. footprint reportedly belongs to
it offers an appealing contrast to 15th-century Chinese Admiral
the historical urban sights of According to folklore, the Zheng He, who was locally
Penang, with opportunities for statue of the deified Chor Soo known as Sam Poh.
jungle trekking and spotting Kong was brought to Penang by
marine turtles among other a monk from China in 1850, and He visited Pulau Penang
wildlife that includes flying was enshrined in a temple at during his exploration of
squirrels, sea otters, monkeys, Bayan Lepas. When the temple Southeast Asia, the Indian
and more than 150 species of was complete, the pious monk Ocean, and the Red Sea. The
birds. There are also over 1,000 allowed snakes from the sur- footprint is said to mark the
species of plants recorded, rounding jungle to take shelter spot where he first stepped
including wild orchids and there. The snakes were veno- ashore. The rock is enshrined
insectivorous pitcher plants. mous Wagler’s pit vipers called in the temple. Penang’s second
ular kapak tokong in Malay. bridge connecting it to the
The park covers about Today, these vipers still inhabit mainland opened here in 2014.
5 sq miles (13 sq km), offering a the rundown temple, and are its
not-too-strenuous wilderness main attraction, especially
adventure. Basic but well-marked during the festival season.
trails lead through lowland About 3 ft (1 m) long in
dipterocarp forest, mangrove, maturity, they are dark green
and sandy beach habitats. A with yellow bands. Devotees
canopy walk links two of the regard them as harmless
trails. An unusual feature is a guardian angels of the temple.
meromictic lake, with a surface Although rarely fatal, the bite of
layer that does not mix with the the vipers is painful. Fortunately,
water below. they are sluggish during the
day, perhaps dulled by the
The beaches here are quiet and incense smoke, but are active at
unspoiled. Visitors can take a boat night, when they descend from
trip from Teluk Bahang to one their perches in the eaves to eat
of the most pleasant, Monkey offerings left by the pious.
Beach, named for its crab-eating
macaques. There are no refresh-
ment facilities in the park, so
take snacks and plenty of water.
d Snake Temple
Bayan Lepas, 7 miles (12 km) S of
Georgetown. @ 66 from Komtar in
Georgetown. Open 7am–7pm daily.
_ anniversary of the birth of Chor
Soo Kong, 6th day of first lunar
month (Jan/Feb).
Named Ban Kah Lan, meaning A Buddhist monk praying at the Snake Temple
the temple of the azure clouds
in the Hokkien dialect, this
highly unusual temple was built
in 1850 by Chinese migrants. It
116 MALAYSIA REGION BY REGION
stone roof supported by pillars. Gunung Jerai. Formerly known
The candi performed the as Kedah Peak, this massive
function of temples for Hindu forest-clad limestone outcrop
or Buddhist religious activities, that is a part of the Titiwangsa
and honored the deceased Mountain Range is clearly
rulers and members of the visible from the sea. It adds a
royal family. touch of variety to the scenic
The little-visited museum flat plains visible throughout
preserves, chronicles, and the area. In the past, it acted as
explains the various excavations a navigation point for sailors,
as well as displaying collections and was considered sacred by
of artifacts discovered at the the Hindu kingdom of Bujang.
site. These include Chinese It marked the start of a cross-
porcelain, Shiva lingas, statues peninsula portage route bet-
of the Hindu god Ganesh ween the Indian Ocean
and goddess Durga, terra- and the South China
Archaeological remnants, main temple cotta statues, and a Sea that avoided the
Candi Bukit Batu Pahat
bronze Buddhist long voyage around
g Lembah Bujang
image found here in the Strait of Malacca.
16 miles (26 km) NW of Sungai Petani.
@ 8 ∑ mykedah2.com 1976. It is possible to Today, the peak is
One of Peninsular Malaysia’s see the excavated visited for its pristine
most important archaeological
sites, the Hindu-Buddhist sites through splendor and pano-
remains at Lembah Bujang, or
Bujang valley, reveal significant privately arranged Fragment of a stone lintel at ramic forest views.
aspects of a major pre-Islamic
civilization. First excavated by guided tours from Lembah Bujang On the summit is a
the British archaeologist
H G Quaritch-Wales in 1936, this the museum. There dilapidated 6th-
archaeological site stretches
over a vast 87-sq-mile (225-sq- was national uproar in 2013 century Hindu shrine and bath
km) area extending from
Gunung Jerai to Kuala Muda. when a developer destroyed called Candi Telaga Sembilan,
Bujang, which derives its some of the candi at the site. or nine pool temple, which was
name from a legendary winged
dragon, was a notable king- There are plans to reconstruct discovered in 1884.
dom and port in the 5th
century AD. It had trade the damaged ruins. Another attraction on the
relations with India, Srivijaya
(on Sumatra), and Cambodia, mountain is the Muzium
and was visited by the Chinese
Buddhist monk I-Ching in AD E Lembah Bujang Perhutanan, or Forestry
672. In the 7th century, it was
absorbed into the Srivijaya Archaeological Museum Museum, which is saturated
Empire, and reached its zenith
between the 9th and 10th Jalan Tanjung Dawai, Merbok. with fragrances from various
centuries, before Islam gained
a foothold on the peninsula. Tel (04) 457-2005. Open 9am–5pm types of coniferous and oak
Over 50 sites have been daily. Closed noon–2:45pm Fri trees. Run by the Malaysian
excavated in the valley. Among
the finds, the most impressive (for prayers). 8 ∑ jmm.gov.my Forestry Commission, the
are the candi, or two tomb-
temples, which have been museum has exhibits on trees
transported and reassembled
at the Lembah Bujang h Gunung Jerai of the surrounding Sungai Teroi
Archaeological Museum in Forest Recreation Park, which
nearby Merbok. The 7th-century
Candi Bukit Batu Pahat has a 19 miles (30 km) N of Sungai Petani. houses rare orchids and wildlife.
vimana, or inner sanctuary, with
images of Hindu deities, and Tel (04) 730-1957. @ Open daily. 8 E Forestry Museum
a mandapa, or open hall, with a ®0 Gunung Jerai. Tel (04) 731-2322.
Rising sharply out of the O Sungai Teroi Forest
surrounding Kedah plains is the Recreation Park
imposing 3,993-ft (1,217-m)
Gunung Jerai. & 8 compulsory.
Misty view above the treetops at Gunung Jerai
For hotels and restaurants see p279 and pp292–3
NORTHWEST PENINSULA 117
k Kuala Kedah
7 miles (12 km) W of Alor Star. *
220,000. @ g
As Kuala means river mouth
in Malay, Kuala Kedah is an
aptly named fishing port that
is located at the northern
bank of its namesake river.
This small town serves as the
convenient southern ferry
point for travelers sailing to
Pulau Langkawi. The crowning
glory of the town is the
The elegant Masjid Zahir, or state mosque, in Alor Star atmospheric Kota Kuala
j Alor Star produced as an offering to Kedah, a fort dating to the
mid-18th century standing on
59 miles (95 km) N of Georgetown. the Thais in return for their the right bank of Sungai Kedah.
* 205,000. ~ n 179B Kompleks protection. Another reminder of The structure was originally
Alor Star, Lebuhraya Darul Aman, the state’s Siamese connections built to protect the kingdom
(04) 730-1322. ∑ tourism.gov.my is Wat Syam Nikrodharam, a against naval attacks by Siam
Theravada Buddhist temple built (Thailand). However, the Thais
Kedah’s state capital, Alor Star in the unmistakable Thai style, invaded and captured the fort
(also known as Alor Setar), is located at Kampung Telok Sena. in the early 19th century. The
mainly a transit point to Thailand Today, the city’s considerable town is guarded by thick walls
and a junction for the road west Chinese Buddhist population and a moat, and comprises a
to Kuala Kedah, the ferry port worships here. number of buildings including
for Pulau Langkawi. However, the the Royal Audience Hall. Six
city itself, proud birthplace of U Masjid Zahir of the 19th-century British
Malaysia’s first and fourth prime Jalan Sultan Muhamad Jiwa. cannons are on display, resting
ministers, has several attractions. Open daily. Closed noon–3pm Fri on the crumbling walls, facing
Among these is the padang, a (for prayers). the river estuary. Today, Kuala
lovely old colonial town square E State Museum Kedah is famous for the
surrounded by a number of royal Lebuhraya Darul Aman. Tel (04) 733- variety of delectable seafood,
and religious buildings. Look out 1162. Open Sat–Thu. Closed noon– especially laksa, served at
for the Balai Besar, or the royal 3pm Fri (for prayers). the numerous restaurants all
audience hall, which stands on over town.
tall pillars embellished with
Victorian iron lacework. The Orang Syam
unique Balai Nobat, or drum
hall, is an eight-sided tower Malaysians of Thai ethnic origin, known in Malay as Orang Syam,
topped by an onion-shaped have lived in northern Malaysia for centuries. When and how
dome. The building houses they came to settle in this predominantly Malay-speaking region
the Kedah Royal Orchestra. remains unclear. Their dialect suggests that their roots go back
Masjid Zahir, or state mosque, at least four centuries to the Narathiwat province which neighbors
incorporates elegant Moorish Thailand. The Orang Syam are recognized as bumiputras, or
designs in its five black domes indigenous Malaysians, having the
and slender minarets. Built in same rights and status as Muslim
1912, this is one of the oldest Malays. They settled primarily in
mosques in Malaysia. The prosperous kampung syams, or
mosque welcomes non-Muslim Siamese villages in Kedah, Kelantan,
visitors who are dressed Perak, Penang, and Perlis, dwelling
appropriately. harmoniously with their Muslim
neighbors. One easy way to identify
More interesting is the a kampung syam is the presence of
Muzium Negeri, or the State elaborately sited Buddhist temples.
Museum, located a mile (2 km) They have quintessentially Thai
north of the padang. It displays curved roofs, lavishly gilded pagodas,
exhibits dating back to the 19th tinkling wind-chimes, and edifices
century when Kedah was a of the Buddha in various postures.
tributary of neighboring Siam The five-centuries-old temple at
(now known as Thailand). Look Kampung Jubakar claims to have the
out for the pokok bunga emas, a largest Seated Buddha image in Orang Syam people working in
beautiful, intricately wrought Southeast Asia. the fields
little tree made of gold,
118 MALAYSIA REGION BY REGION
l Pulau Langkawi
Set in the heart of an archipelago of some 100 islands
and islets in the Andaman Sea, Pulau Langkawi is one of
Malaysia’s most popular destinations. Fringed with sandy
beaches and forested hills in the interior, it is also one of the
most beautiful. A number of idyllic resorts and spas offer
soothing retreats, while a range of sporting activities, such
as waterskiing, diving, and trekking, attract adventurous
visitors. Kuah, the small bustling capital, is a good jumping-
off point for Langkawi’s other sights.
Langkawi Sky Bridge
This suspended walkway at the
top station of the Langkawi Cable
Car affords magnificent views.
Pantai Tasik Pasir Teluk
Datai Tengorak Jetty
The Datai
Els Club
Datai Teluk Datai
Telega Tujuh Falls Gunung Langkawi
Literally meaning seven wells, Telega Tujuh is a Machinchang Crocodile
cascading waterfall – an ideal site for bathing 2,315 ft Farm
and picnics.
Telaga Kuala Beras Petang
Harbor Park Teriang Terbakar
Pantai Padang
Kok Matsirat
Langkawi Kedawang
International
Airport
Bon Ton
. Pantai Cenang Pulau Temonyong
This long strip of sandy beach has numerous beach Rebak
chalets and a fine selection of restaurants and bars. Underwater
Pantai World
The Legend of Tasik Dayang Bunting Cenang
Star Cruise
Tasik Dayang Bunting, or lake Pantai Jetty
of the pregnant maiden, is a Tengah
freshwater lake set amid the Pulau
limestone cliffs and dense Tepor
forests of Pulau Dayang
Bunting, the second-largest Pulau Payar
island in the archipelago. A 20 miles (32 km)
legend revolves around the
tragic tale of Princess Mahsuri 0 km 5
who claimed she became A boat on Tasik Dayang Buntin 0 miles 5
pregnant by drinking from
the lake. She was then falsely accused of adultery and executed.
The legendary crocodile which inhabits the lake is said to be
Mahsuri’s child. Local women still come here to pray for children.
For hotels and restaurants see p279 and 292–3
PULAU LANGKAWI 119
The Durian Perangin The Langkawi Birds VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Waterfall cascades Paradise
through 14 levels Located at Belanga Practical Information
and is a popular Pecah, this lush tro- 19 miles (30 km) W of Kuala Perlis.
picnic spot. pical garden is *120,000. n Jalan Persian
home to at least 150 Putra, Kuah; (04) 966-7186.
species of birds, ∑ naturallylangkawi.my
including
hornbills, Transport
toucans, and kg
flamingos.
Pulau Gua Cerita
Gasing
Tanjung Rhu
Pulau
Pasir
Panta Pasir Galeria Pulau
Teluk Hitam Perdana Laggun
Ewa
Pulau Tanjung
Kompleks Air Dendang
Budaya Hangat
Kraf Village . Gunung Raya
Literally the great mountain, Gunung Raya is
Kampung Buku Belanga Kisap
Malaysia Gunung Raya Pecah the highest peak in the archipelago. Its
summit offers fine views across the
2,890 ft Kisap Andaman Sea.
Ulu Melaka
Kuah Penerah Pulau Timon
Kuah Jetty
Langkawi
Golf Club
Pulau Pulau Bumbun Kuala Perlis Masjid al-Hana
Dayang The largest mosque on Pulau
Bunting Kuala Kedah Langkawi, the golden domes of
Pulau Tiloi Penang Masjid al-Hana tower over Kuah, the
Pulau
Gua Langsir Tuba island’s capital.
. Tomb of Key
Mahsuri Major road
Minor road
This quiet shrine Ferry route
was built in memory Cable car route
Peak
of Princess Mahsuri
who was executed
at this spot after
being unjustly
accused of adultery.
For keys to symbols see back flap
120 MALAYSIA REGION BY REGION
Exploring Pulau Langkawi structure. According to legend,
Mahsuri was unjustly accused
The largest among a cluster of tropical islands, Pulau of adultery and sentenced to
Langkawi is a mountainous, palm-fringed island peppered death. Mahsuri was stabbed by
with paddy fields and sandy coves. In the 1980s, Pulau the executioner with her own
Langkawi was transformed from an isolated, overwhelmingly keris. Her blood flowed white as
Malay rural area, into a duty-free zone in a successful attempt an indication of her purity, and
to make it a holiday destination, wooing backpackers and with her dying breath she
upmarket visitors alike. Access to the archipelago by air and cursed the island to seven
ferry has never been easier, and Langkawi’s excellent road generations of bad luck. A tomb
network makes exploring the island convenient. Once-sleepy of fine marble was built on the
Kuah, Langkawi’s capital, now boasts a slew of shopping spot where she was killed. Today,
centers, supermarkets, resorts, and luxury hotels catering this is honored as a shrine by the
to rising tourist demands. islanders. There is also a small
museum and some traditional
Malay houses to walk around.
} Langkawi Canopy
Adventures
9 miles (15 km) NW of Kuah. @
n 12-466-8027. 0 -
∑ langkawi.travel
One of Malaysia’s most
exhilarating outdoor activities is
offered by Langkawi Canopy
Adventures, where visitors pass
high above the rain forest floor
on the Gunung Raya moun-
tainside. This adrenalin-charged
experience features a 492-ft
(150-m) slide along metal cables
Main street in Kuah lined with shops and cafés and a 98-ft (30-m) vertical rappel.
Pre-activity training is provided
Kuah Langkawi to shop, change on site. They also offer kayaking.
SE Pulau Langkawi. * 94,000. @ g money, and rent vehicles for
n Jalan Persiaran Putra, (04) 966- sightseeing. It also has a vibrant } Pantai Cenang
7789. ( Wed & Sat. Taman Legenda: pasar malam, or night market. 10 miles (16 km) W of Kuah.
Jalan Persiaran Putra, near Kuah Jetty. For those arriving by sea, Kuah @ g 0 - = Underwater
Tel (04) 966-4223. Open 8am–11pm is a useful transit point to Kuala World: Tel (04) 955-6100.
daily. & Perlis, Kuala Kedah, Penang, Open 10am–6pm daily.
Alor Star, and Satun in Thailand. & underwaterworldlangkawi.
Skirting a large bay on the com.my
southeastern tip of the island,
Kuah is Langkawi’s main town P Tomb of Mahsuri A sweep of dazzling white sand,
and travel hub. Originally a small 7 miles (12 km) W of Kuah. Pantai Cenang is the most
fishing village, Kuah is under- Open tomb: 7:30am–6pm daily; popular and developed beach
going rapid development as a show: 11am. & on Pulau Langkawi. Although
result of the island’s growing Dedicated to the memory of a much has changed here since
tourism industry. Malay princess, the tomb of the early 2000s, the beach is not
The most distinguished Mahsuri is a simple white totally spoilt. At its southern end
building in town is the Friday
Congregational Mosque, Masjid
al-Hana, located next to the
tourist office. Built in 1959, the
mosque incorporates Uzbek and
Moorish elements along with
traditional Malay design. Taman
Legenda, a theme park by the
seafront, features sculptures
and exhibits that recount the
archipelago’s history. The
garden overlooks Dataran Lang,
a landscaped square with a
prominent statue of an eagle.
Kuah is the best place on Plaque narrating the story of Princess Mahsuri at the site of her death
For hotels and restaurants see p279 and pp292–3
PULAU LANGKAWI 121
Visitors taking a closer look at marine life at Underwater World O Pulau Payar Marine Park
20 miles (32 km) S of Langkawi. g
are a number of entertainment island to the sea and An hour’s boat ride from Kuah,
the tropical island of Pulau
projects, including the vast neighboring Thailand. At an Payar is popular with keen
divers and snorkelers. Payar
Underwater World. This spec- incline of 42 degrees, with a and the smaller islands of
Lembu, Segantang, and Kaca
tacular aquarium is among the vertical rise of 2,231 ft (680 m), cluster around coral reefs that
teem with marine life, such as
largest in Malaysia, with over the ride is among the steepest in moray eels, large groupers, and
black-tipped reef sharks.
5,000 marine species on display. the world. There are two stops,
The Coral Garden in the
The aquarium also boasts a walk- Middle and Top stations, where sheltered, clear waters off Pulau
Payar is enduringly popular
through tunnel and 3D cinema. visitors can alight. and is said to have the largest
number of coral species in
Pantai Cenang’s night market The rocks here are some of Malaysia. Here visitors can also
feed baby sharks under the
is well worth a visit. Markets open Malaysia’s most ancient, at supervision of experts. To visit,
it is best to book a day in
in different Langkawi locations 450 million years old. Since advance with a tour group.
every evening, with Thursday 2007 the whole of Langkawi has } Pulau Dayang Bunting
3 miles (5 km) S of Kuah. g 0 -
being market night in Pantai been designated as a UNESCO Lying across the Kuah Straits,
Dayang Bunting is the second-
Cenang. From 5:30pm to 10pm Geopark, a designation given largest island in the Langkawi
archipelago. Covered with
the street opposite Bon Ton to areas of global geological rain forest and mangroves,
the island boasts over 90
Resort is transformed by a significance. Langkawi’s was species of birds, including
hornbills, kingfishers, and
lively mix of hawker food stalls, the first Geopark listing in woodpeckers. The highlight
here is the freshwater Tasik
souvenir shops, and local farmers Southeast Asia, and while the Dayang Bunting, or lake of the
pregnant maiden, surrounded
selling produce. Nearby, Pantai designation extends over the by limestone cliffs and dense
forests. A legend holds that
Tengah beach is a southward entire Langkawi archipelago, the waters of the lake bestow
fertility, and local women who
continuation of Cenang, with a which comprises some 100 want to conceive come here to
bathe. Visitors can swim in the
harbour, hotels, and a nightclub. islands, it identifies three lake, explore it by pedalo, or
simply picnic by its shores.
primary hotspots: the
Boats anchored in the waters off Pulau
} Telaga Tujuh Falls Machinchang Cambrian, Dayang Bunting
14 miles (22 km) W of Kilim Karst and Dayang
Kuah. Langkawi Cable Bunting Marble
Car: Open 10am–7pm geoforest parks.
daily. & Basketwork at Kompleks
Set in an attractive Budaya Kraf } Teluk Datai
spot on the west coast 22 miles (35 km) NW of
of Langkawi, Telaga Tujuh or Kuah. 0 - Ibrahim Hussein
seven wells, is ideal for Museum: Pasir Tengkorak.
freshwater bathing and picnics. Tel (04) 959-4669. Open daily. &
Located west of Pantai Kok, it is Kompleks Budaya Kraf: Teluk Yu.
a 30-minute walk to the seven Tel (04) 959-1917 Open daily. =
waterfalls, which are joined by Teluk Datai on the island’s north
smooth, slippery stone sills that coast offers the most stunning
bathers can slide down. Look vistas on the island, with several
out for the brazen monkeys beautiful beaches scattered
along the way, and keep your along the shore. The lovely bay
bag firmly closed as they may is home to exclusive resorts and
try to steal any food you have. Els Club, a famous golf course.
In the vicinity is the Langkawi Along the coast, the Kompleks
Cable Car, which carries Budaya Kraf, or craft cultural
passengers over ancient rain complex, showcases Malay
forests to the summit of Gunung handicrafts, such as batik, ikat,
Machinchang, at 2,315 ft (706 m), pottery, paintings, and
for fabulous views across the woodcarvings.
MALAYSIA REGION BY REGION 123
SOUTHERN PENINSULA
The southern tip of Peninsular Malaysia is also the southern-
most extremity of continental Asia, encompassing Johor and
the often overlooked state of Negeri Sembilan, stronghold of
the Minangkabau culture. Cosmopolitan Melaka, the capital of the
historically significant state of the same name, is on every tourist’s
itinerary, while on the east coast, the sandy beaches and colorful reefs
of Pulau Tioman are a magnet for visitors from around the world.
With only the narrow Strait of Malacca They were followed by Dutch and then
dividing this side of Malaysia from Sumatra, British colonists, alongside Chinese and
there have always been close relations Indian ethnic groups who intermarried
between the two cultures. Negeri Sembilan with Malays to create the distinct
was settled by the Minangkabau people Baba-Nyonya and Chitty communities.
from Sumatra in the 15th century and Melaka is famous today for its colonial
their unique style of architecture, with architecture and an eclectic cuisine that
upswept roofs imitating buffalo horns, draws on its multicultural influences.
is still seen across the state.
After the fall of Melaka to the
Melaka, too, was founded by an exiled Portuguese, Johor became the most
Sumatran prince who introduced Islam to powerful state on the peninsula. Facing
the peninsula in the 15th century. The threats from the Minangkabau, Johor was
city’s strategic location on the busy trade forced to cede Singapore to Sir Stamford
routes between China and India made Raffles in 1819. Today, the hectic state
it phenomenally wealthy, as everything capital, Johor Bahru, is Malaysia’s second-
from tea, silks, and spices to gold, opium, largest city, but the islands of the Seribuat
and slaves was bought and sold here. Archipelago hold more appeal, offering
Such riches attracted the attention of the some of the very best diving and
Portuguese, who captured the city in 1511. snorkeling in the country.
Colorful trishaws decorated with flowers outside Christ Church, Melaka
Brightly painted verandas at Salang Bay on the idyllic island of Pulau Tioman
124 MALAYSIA REGION BY REGION
Exploring the Southern Peninsula
Bounded on the west by one of the world’s busiest shipping
lanes, the Strait of Malacca, on the east by the open South China
Sea, and on the south by the island city-state of Singapore, the
Southern Peninsula offers everything from bustling cities to
great tracts of jungle, lazy seaside resorts, and deserted islands.
The top draw is historic Melaka, home to some of Malaysia’s best
museums, most varied cuisine, and earliest European buildings.
The beautiful old palace, Istana Lama, in Sri Menanti is a prime
example of Minangkabau craftsmanship, while Seremban, the
capital of Negeri Sembilan, makes the ideal base Inside the royal throne room at
Istana Lama, Sri Menanti
for exploring the state. Johor’s main Bentong
attractions are its beach resorts and the Temerloh
beautiful islands of the Seribuat
Archipelago off the east coast.
Mancis
Sights at a Glance Kuala Lumpur Paradong Simpang
Pertang
1 Seremban Kuala
2 Sri Menanti Kelawang Ayer Hitam
3 Kuala Pilah Mantin
4 Melaka pp128–33 Pantai Bahau
5 Muar
6 Kukup SEREMBAN SRI KUALA PILAH
7 Johor Bahru Cuah MENANTI
8 Desaru Beach
9 Mersing NEGERI
Islands SEMBILAN Gemas Buloh
Kasap
0 Seribuat Archipelago
q Pulau Tioman pp136–7 Port Dickson Pengkalan Tampin Pekan Jabi
Kempas Segamat
Tanjung Tuan Alor Gajah
Masjid MELAKA Jasin Tangkak
Tanah HIGHWAY
NORTH-SOUTH Lenga
Muar
MELAKA
Pagoh
Pulau Besar Sungai
Rambai
Stra MUAR
i t Parit Jawa
of M
a l a Semarah
c ca
Getting Around
A train line runs between Kuala Lumpur and
Johor Bahru, and then on to Singapore. Seremban
lies at the end of the KTM line from the capital.
However, the quickest and easiest way of getting
around the region is by car or bus and there are
regular services between all the main urban
centers. Smaller towns, such as Kukup, are best
reached by taxi while Pulau Tioman can be
reached by ferry from Mersing.
The bright façade of Christ Church, Melaka
For hotels and restaurants see pp279–80 and pp294–5
SOUTHERN PENINSULA 125
Key
Highway
Major road
Minor road
Railroad
International border
State border
Peak
0 kilometers 40
0 miles
40
Swaying palms and pure white sand on Desaru Beach
Kuantan Tekek
Juara
Kuantan
Padang Endau Pulau PULAU TIOMAN
Seribuat
Pianggu Pulau
Kayu Papan Pemangil
Endau SERIBUAT
Gunung Tiong ARCHIPELAGO
3,327 ft a
Pulau Sea
Labis
Besar
JOHOR MERSINGMersing Seri Pantai uth Chin
Kahang
ng So Pulau
Sembero
Jemaluang Tinggi
Lenik Paloh Pulau
Sibu
Tanjung
Leman
Keluang Gunung Belumut
3,314 ft
Air Hitam Sedili Besar
Batu Pahat Renggan
Simpang Layang-Layang Lombong Mawai Sedili Kecil
Ranggarn
Senggarang NORTH-SOUTH Johor Kota Tinggi Laut
Rengit Benut DESARU
Kelapa Kulai Teluk
Sawit Sengat
Senai
HIGHWAY
JOHOR Lintang BEACH
BAHRU Belungkor
Pontian Kecil
Gelang
Patah Pengerang
Pekan Panerok
Pulau KUKUP
Kukup
For keys to symbols see back flap
126 MALAYSIA REGION BY REGION
The palace stands upon 99
pillars representing the royal
warriors, while the façade is
decorated with elegant
carvings of foliage and animals.
The royal bedchambers and
banquet hall can be viewed
inside, along with displays of
costumes and photographs.
Balconies on the upper floors
offer panoramic views over the
neat palace gardens.
The peaceful Lake Gardens in Seremban E Istana Lama
Tel (06) 497-0242. Closed for
renovation; due to reopen end 2016.
1 Seremban beaches can get crowded. 3 Kuala Pilah
The water quality in the Strait of
42 miles (67 km) S of Kuala Lumpur. Malacca is not great, but there’s 25 miles (40 km) E of Seremban. *
* 700,000. £ KTM Seremban. always something going on. 154,000. @ (
@ from Kuala Lumpur and Melaka. There is also an Army Museum,
_ Negeri Sembilan Cultural Carnival providing a change of pace In the heart of Minangkabau
(Jun). ∑ tourism.gov.my from the beach. territory, Kuala Pilah is a small
provincial center with little
The capital of Negeri Sembilan E State Museum to interest tourists, but it has
state, Seremban is a busy and Cultural Handicrafts Complex, an attractive collection of
largely modern town that at Jalan Sungei Ujong. Tel (06) 763- 1930s shophouses and a
first glance seems much like 1149. Open 10am–6pm daily. handful of minor sights. Among
any other provincial Malaysian Closed noon–2:45pm Fri. the most interesting is the
city. Although low on sights, 7 grounds only. - = Martin Lister Memorial Arch
Seremban is a center for the located just behind the bus
unique Minangkabau culture. The 2 Sri Menanti station. This grandiose classical
most obvious expression of this arch, topped with a Chinese
is found in the local architecture, 19 miles (30 km) E of Seremban. roof, commemorates the state’s
such as the State Secretariat * 6,000. @ from Seremban. first British Resident, Martin
Building with its striking, _ Sultan’s Birthday Celebrations (Jul). Lister, and dates from 1897.
traditional pointed roof made Nearby is the blue clapboard
to resemble a pair of buffalo The old royal capital of Negeri St. Joseph’s Catholic Church.
horns. Some original, relocated Sembilan, Sri Menanti is today
Minangkabau buildings are on little more than a rustic village. The center of town hosts
show at the State Museum. The Old Palace, or Istana a number of temples that
These include the Istana Ampang Lama, was used as the royal include the multicolored Sri
Tinggi, with its beautiful carvings, residence until 1931 and is a Kanthaswamy Hindu Temple,
built for a sultan’s daughter in the fine example of Minangkabau filled with ornate statues of
1860s, and the less ornate Rumah architecture. Now a museum, various deities.
Negeri Sembilan. The State this magnificent wooden edi-
Museum also hosts exhibitions of fice was completed in 1908 Sri Kanthaswamy
costumes, musical instruments, without the use of a single nail. Hindu Temple
weaponry, and stamps. Jln Melang. Open 6am–7pm daily. 7
East of the town center are
the attractively landscaped
Lake Gardens and the circular
State Mosque.
Environs Detail of a frieze at the Sri Kanthaswamy Hindu Temple in Kuala Pilah
Port Dickson is a small port town
20 miles (32 km) southwest of
Seremban. It is the main base for
the 11-mile (18-km) beach strip
running south to Tanjung Tuan,
also known as Cape Rachado. As
the nearest beach resort to Kuala
Lumpur, it is hugely popular with
locals at weekends so the
For hotels and restaurants see pp279–80 and pp294–5
SOUTHERN PENINSULA 127
Minangkabau Architecture
Negeri Sembilan is a stronghold of the Minangkabau people who originally came from
the highlands of western Sumatra and settled here in the 15th century. Their name
comes from minang and kerbau, translating as victorious buffalo, and according to
legend derives from a war with the Javanese in which the final battle was decided by a
fight between two water buffalos. The Minangkabau won and adopted the buffalo horns
as their national symbol. These stylized horns are used in traditional female headwear
and, more notably, in their houses, which are supported on pillars and are always topped
with an elaborate roof with pointed, upswept gables reminiscent of a pair of horns. These
family homes are known as rumah gadang, or big house, and, as the Minangkabau are a
matrilineal society, belong to the women and are passed down the female line.
The central tower once held the royal Roof tiles are made from expensive,
records and functioned as a look-out post. and now scarce, ironwood specially
It is reached via steep wooden stairs. imported from Sarawak.
Istana Lama, Sri Menanti The palace is supported on
99 pillars, each hewn from a
The Old Palace is the most impressive example of cengal tree trunk. Many are
Minangkabau architecture in Malaysia. Built between carved with elaborate designs.
1902 and 1908, it remained the royal residence until 1931
and has been a museum since 1992.
The dramatic upswept gables of the State Museum in
Seremban, erected in 1984, are typical of Minangkabau
architecture. Older reconstructed houses can also be seen
within the grounds.
Istana Ampang Tinggi, with The magnificent
its attap (thatched) roof, was gateway straddling
built for a local 19th-century the main road into Sri
princess. It originally stood Menanti has dramatic
near Sri Menanti but is now horn-shaped pillars.
at Seremban’s State Museum.
128 MALAYSIA REGION BY REGION
4 Melaka tombstones, as well as the
empty tomb of St. Francis
With its colorful, cosmopolitan heritage, the town of Melaka Xavier, the co-founder of the
(also known as Malacca) is one of Malaysia’s biggest tourist Jesuit order in the 16th century.
draws. According to legend, it was founded by the Sumatran
Prince Parameswara in 1400 and named by him for the local Outside the main entrance is
melaka tree. The city grew quickly and by the 15th century it an abandoned 19th-century
was one of the richest trading empires in the East. In 1511, it lighthouse and a marble statue
fell to the Portuguese, who in turn gave way to the Dutch in of St. Francis Xavier, erected in
1641 and the British in 1795. The influences of all the city’s 1952. From here, a path leads
rulers can still be seen in its historic core around St. Paul’s Hill. down to the Dutch Cemetery at
The city is known for its multicultural population, including the bottom of the hill. Only five
Portuguese Eurasians and, most notably, the Baba-Nyonya of the 38 tombs here belong to
who are descendants of early merchants from China who 17th-century Dutchmen; the
intermarried with local Malay women. rest are 19th-century British
residents. Most are in a bad state
of disrepair but an information
board at the entrance lists the
names of those who lie here.
Stadthuys, the former hub of Dutch colonial administration P Porta de Santiago
Jalan Kota.
E Stadthuys of post-independence Malaysia. One of four main gateways into
Town Square. Tel (06) 284-1934. Also included is the Seri Melaka, the Portuguese A’Famosa fort-
Closed for renovation until end 2016; an impressive colonial mansion, ress, the Porta de Santiago is the
phone ahead for times. & 8 which was the official residence sole surviving remnant of those
of Dutch and British colonial once massive defenses. It was
This magnificent, sturdy old governors, and, until 1996, was built in 1512 by Alfonso de
building looming over the town the home of local chief ministers. Albuquerque, the Portuguese
square was built by the Dutch viceroy, and the fortress was
in the 1650s as the seat of T St. Paul’s Hill reused and redeveloped by the
colonial administration. Occupying a commanding site Dutch in the 17th century.
in the heart of town overlooking The squat stone archway, now
The interior, which reopens at the sea, St. Paul’s Hill was the standing in isolation at the
the end of 2016 after renovations, site of the now almost entirely bottom of St. Paul’s Hill, bears
houses the Museum of History vanished Portuguese A’Famosa the coat of arms of the Dutch
and Ethnography. Exhibits fortress. Its last remnant, Porta East India Company on both
include Nyonya tableware, Ming de Santiago, stands sentinel at sides and there are several Dutch
ceramics, Dutch furniture, pistols, the bottom of the mount. cannons on display in front.
and swords, alongside dioramas
illustrating wedding ceremonies At the summit of the hill is St. The fortress, with its 10-ft
of local ethnic groups and a full- Paul’s Church, originally erected (3-m-) thick walls, was demol-
size replica of a traditional in 1521 and then known as ished by the British in 1807 in
wooden Malay house. Nossa Senhora da Annunciada, case the city fell into the hands
or Our Lady of the Annunciation. of the French. It was only the
Behind the Stadthuys, and Under Dutch rule the church intervention of Sir Stamford
included in the same entry was renamed St. Paul’s, but was Raffles (see p44), the founding
ticket, are a number of small abandoned after Christ Church father of Singapore, that saved
museums including the Museum was built. Sadly, St. Paul’s Church this small section for posterity.
of Literature, dedicated to is now a ruin, but it still holds a
Malaysian writers and historical fascinating collection of The ruins of Porta de Santiago, all that
manuscripts, and the Democratic elaborate 17th-century Dutch remains of A’Famosa fortress
Government Museum, hosting
displays on the political history
For hotels and restaurants see pp279–80 and pp294–5
MELAKA 129
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
SW Melaka. * 720,000.
n Jalan Kota, (06) 281-4803.
_ Dragon Boat Festival (Jul).
∑ tourism.gov.my
Transport
~ £ Tampin, 24 miles (38 km)
N. @ g Dumai, Sumatra.
Plinth and gardens in front of the Istana Kesultanan Melaka, a replica Malay palace 5 Christ Church
Town Square. Tel (06) 284-8804.
E Istana Kesultanan Melaka orchestra. Also on show are @ 17. Open daily. 7 ^ 5 8:30am
Jalan Kota. Tel (06) 282-6526. scale models of other royal English Eucharist. =
Open 9am–5:30pm daily. palaces from across Malaysia
& free admission to the garden. and displays of costumes and This striking, bright red church is
∑ perzim.gov.my weaponry, including the fear- one of the iconic symbols of
some tombak spears. Melaka. It was built by the Dutch
At the base of St. Paul’s Hill in 1753 to celebrate the cen-
is the Istana Kesultanan Melaka, Upstairs is the sultan’s tenary of their rule over the city,
an impressive re-creation of a bedchamber and another flight and consecrated for Anglican
traditional Malay palace based of stairs leads to a small room worship in 1838. Built of local
closely on descriptions of the housing a display of keris, or red laterite stone, the building is
original 15th-century Melaka curved Malay daggers. now painted red and the color
Sultanate Palace that once scheme continues on the
stood in this area. It houses In front of the palace is the neighboring Stadthuys and
the Muzium Di Melaka, which so-called Forbidden Garden, a Clock Tower. A three-arched
displays life-sized dioramas pleasant, formal space, laid out porch runs along the front of the
of the sultan’s court in session with fountains and pools, and church, while inside there are
and the nobat, or royal shaded by bamboo, palm trees, numerous Dutch and British
and magnolia trees. tombstones. Look out too for the
gigantic ceiling beams, each cut
from a single tree trunk, the
hand-carved pews, and the frieze
of the Last Supper over the altar.
JLN. P0RTUGIS Bus Station
0.6 mile (1km)
Hang Kasturi’s JLN. TUKANG EMAS JLN. KAMPUNG HULU Melaka
MausoleuJAmLAN HANG
Cheng Hoon JALAN JLN. KAMP 1 Stadthuys
Teng Temple LEKIU UNG PANTAI JLN. H JEBAT 2 St. Paul’s Hill
KPG JLN. BUNGA RAYA 3 Porta de Santiago
JALAN JALAN LEKIR JEBAT Kampung 4 Istana Kesultanan
KULI JEBAT
TUN Kling Mosque JLN. HANG Melaka
Sri Poyyatha Vinayagar 5 Christ Church
JALAN 6 Sri Poyyatha
TAN Moorthi Temple HANG BESI
KASTURI JLN. TKG Vinayagar Moorthi
CHENG Baba-Nyonya Temple
Heritage 7 Kampung Kling
Museum Mosque
8 Cheng Hoon Teng
ACHINATOWNJ LO C K LORONG JLN. LAKSAM A St. Francis Temple
LAN N Xavier 9 Jalan Hang Jebat
KOTA A JLN. BANDA KAB 0 Jalan Tun Tan Cheng
LAKSAM Lock
ANA River TOWN Christ JLN. GEREJA A q Baba-Nyonya
SQUARE JALAN KOTA Heritage Museum
w Maritime Museum
Church
a Stadthuys
Malacc
Maritime JALAN JALAN KOTSt. Paul’s Hill Istana Kesultanan
Museum QUAYSIDE Melaka
People’s
Museum
A Porta de 0 meters 200
Santiago 0 yards 200
JLN. PARAMESWARA
DUMAI,
SUMATRA
For keys to symbols see back flap
130 MALAYSIA REGION BY REGION
Sri Poyyatha Vinayagar prayer hall, which is closed to
Moorthi Temple non-Muslims, is surrounded by
5–11 Jalan Tukang Emas. Ionic columns, ironwork, and
Tel (06) 288-3599. English ceramic tiles.
This unassuming structure is
the oldest surviving Hindu Cheng Hoon Teng Temple
temple in Malaysia. It was built Jalan Tokong 25. Tel (06) 282-9343.
in 1781 on the site of the city’s Open 7am–7pm daily. 7
first Chitty, or Indian Peranakan, ∑ chenghoonteng.org.my
settlement. The temple is Also known as the temple of
dedicated to the deity the green clouds and Kuan Yin
Vinayagar, also known as Teng, this venerable building is
Ganesh, the elephant-headed the oldest Chinese temple in
god of wisdom. An image Malaysia. Founded in the
of Vinayagar stands on mid-17th century and Mausoleum of Hang Kasturi on Jalan
Hang Jebat
the main altar in the dedicated to Kuan Yin,
P Jalan Hang Jebat
back of the temple, the goddess of mercy, Tamil Methodist Church: 5 9:30am
Sun (English service). Jonker Walk
and his younger it is a superb example Night Market: Open Fri–Sun evenings.
brother, Lord Murugan, of southern Chinese Better known by its old name of
Jonkers Street, busy Jalan Hang
appears at a side altar. architecture, and is Jebat is the main thoroughfare of
Melaka’s Chinatown. It is famous
The temple is still a vital focus for for its many antique and curio
shops, bars, and restaurants,
crowded during Sri Poyyatha Vinayagar the local Chinese although prices here tend to be
higher than elsewhere. The street
Thaipusam (Jan/Feb). Moorthi Temple community. Taoism, is especially lively on weekend
evenings when the Jonker Walk
Confucianism, and Night Market gets going. There
are stalls selling Chinese food,
U Kampung Kling Mosque Chinese Buddhism are given clothes, and souvenirs, while
Chinese opera takes place
Jalan Tukang Emas. equal status within the temple. on outdoor stages. Unfortu-
nately, rapid tourist-oriented
Tel (06) 283-7416. 7 Restoration work on the main development has forced many
traditional businesses out and
Founded in 1748, this is one of complex led to the temple historic buildings have been
demolished. There are still some
the oldest mosques in the receiving a UNESCO award for points of interest, including the
Mausoleum of Hang Kasturi,
country, although the present outstanding architectural dedicated to a local 15th-century
hero, and the Tamil Methodist
buildings date largely from 1872 restoration. The main hall is Church dating from 1908.
when the old wooden structure richly adorned with beautiful
was replaced with brick in the paintings and symbolic
original design. carvings, with lions, golden
Like Melaka itself, the mosque phoenix, and other mythical
draws influences from other creatures gracing the interior.
cultures and its unique There are also scenes from
architectural features are based Chinese legend and literature
on Sumatran, Chinese, Malay, including a prayer screen
and European styles. The depicting the life of the Buddha,
unusual pyramidal roof with its and a watercolor of Lao Tzu, the
green tiling shows a strong Chinese philosopher and
Hindu influence, while the founder of Taoism. Religious
striking pagoda-like minaret has ceremonies take place here
recognizably Chinese and every day, and visitors are
Moorish origins. The main welcome to come in and watch.
Detail from an intricately carved frieze at the Cheng Hoon Teng Temple
For hotels and restaurants see pp279–80 and pp294–5
MELAKA 131
P Jalan Tun Tan Cheng Lock
8 Heeren Street: 8 Jalan Tun Tan
Cheng Lock. Tel (06) 281-1507. Open
11am–4pm Tue–Sat. 810:30am Tue
& Thu. ∑ badanwarisan.org.my
Tham Siew Inn Artist Gallery: 49 Jalan
Tun Tan Cheng Lock. Tel (06) 281-
2112. Open Tue–Sun. = 7
Malaqa House: 70 Jalan Tun Tan
Cheng Lock. Tel (06) 281-4770.
Open daily. = 7
Formerly known as Heeren Street,
and still referred to as such by
many locals, Jalan Tun Tan Cheng
Lock has retained much more of The decorated façade of a townhouse on Jalan Tun Tan Cheng Lock
its original character than nearby
Jalan Hang Jebat. The long, and restoration processes, and E Maritime Museum
narrow street is now lined with document the traditional tech- Jalan Quayside. Tel (06) 283-0926.
shops, cafés, hotels, restaurants, niques and materials used by the Open 9am–5:30pm daily. &
and several art galleries. artisans who worked on the 7 modern building only. Melaka
project. Local architects River Cruise: Quayside Heritage Center.
The townhouses here date sometimes give tours. Tel (06) 281-4322. Open 9am–
from the 18th century, and the 11:30pm daily. & 7
narrow façades are a result of Farther along Jalan Tun Tan
the tax on house widths that Cheng Lock is the Baba-Nyonya The Maritime Museum is
was imposed by the Dutch Heritage Museum (see pp132–3), Melaka’s most visually arresting
colonial authorities at that time. a preserved townhouse that museum, located on board an
To make up for this, they also provides a glimpse into a impressive, full-scale replica of
tend to have very deep interiors. wealthy Melakan home. One of the 16th-century Portuguese
The houses, with their colorful the street’s best art galleries is galleon Flora de la Mar, which
tiles, stucco work, and painted the Tham Siew Inn Artist sank in the Strait of Malacca
plaster, were once the homes of Gallery, which displays beauti- overburdened with looted
rich Baba-Nyonya families and ful watercolors by local artist treasure. Displays recount the
most are still in private hands. Tham Siew Inn. Another gallery city’s seafaring past from the
A few of the historic buildings worth visiting is Malaqa House, time of the 15th-century Melaka
along this road are in a very poor a grand Baba-Nyonya mansion Sultanate through the ensuing
state of repair. However, one of with large rooms filled with Portuguese, Dutch, and British
these townhouses, known as Oriental furniture, carvings, colonial periods. Exhibits
8 Heeren Street, has been paintings, and bric-a-brac. include dioramas depicting
restored and now functions as a bustling dock scenes, cases
resource center. In the few rooms E Baba-Nyonya Heritage containing scale-model ships
on show here, there are displays Museum and weapons, maps, and other
that explain the conservation See pp132–3. nautical artifacts.
Around a 5-minute walk from
Betel, “The Nut of Love” the museum is the Quayside
Heritage Centre; the jetty in front
Betel nuts, the dried seeds of the areca or Pinang palm tree, are prized of the building is the boarding
for their mildly narcotic and supposed aphrodisiac qualities. The ritual point for cruise boat tours of the
chewing of this nut was once Melaka River. Once the meeting
common across Malaysia but the point between East and West,
practice is now mainly confined the river was the main trade
to rural areas. The nut is prepared artery during the city’s heyday.
during courtship rituals by There are two cruise options
combining it with herbs, cloves, available – the first includes
tobacco, and ground lime, which an on-board tour guide, while
are then wrapped in betel leaves. the other has a recorded
Chewing releases a sticky substance commentary. Passengers are
said to freshen the breath, relax also serenaded with traditional
the mind, and stimulate passion. songs. Both tours leave every
In the past, brides would chew 30 minutes and last 45 minutes.
betel nut to blacken their teeth, The cruise takes in historic
considered an attractive sign of Kampung buildings, beautiful
status. Today, a betel-nut deco-
Betel nuts, thought to be an ration is still presented as a gift riverside gardens, and the Eye on
aphrodisiac, growing in the wild at weddings and festivals. Malaysia Ferris wheel. The tour is
particularly atmospheric at night.
132 MALYASIA REGION BY REGION
Melaka: Baba-Nyonya Heritage Museum
This absorbing museum is dedicated to the unique Hand-painted lantern, a typical
culture of Melaka’s Baba-Nyonya, also known as Straits decoration in Chinese homes
Chinese or Peranakan, community, who were born through
the intermarriage of Chinese traders and local Malay women.
The house dates from 1896 when three older houses were
combined to create a grand home for a wealthy Baba-Nyonya
family. Opulent decor with gold leaf, mother-of-pearl, and
exotic hardwoods is used throughout the house. The eclectic
design incorporates traditional Chinese wall-hangings
and woodcarvings alongside English tilework, heavy Dutch
furniture, Italian marble, and colorful Baba-Nyonya porcelain.
Bedroom Second floor
The four-poster bed in
the master bedroom is
decorated with elaborate
gilded carvings of foliage
and mythological scenes.
A hidden peephole
in the floor overlooks
the guest hall.
The atrium allows
natural light and cool
air into the house.
First floor
House no. 52
House no. 50
(entrance)
House no. 48
. Glass Partition
This screen allowed young unmarried
women, hiding in the Dark Chamber, to
peer through the etched panels at male
visitors in the Guest Hall without being
seen themselves.
. Wooden Staircase
This highly ornate wooden staircase,
constructed without the use of a
single nail, is decorated with
gilded carvings and is the only
one of its kind in Melaka.
For hotels and restaurants see pp279–80 and pp294–5
MELAKA 133
Baba-Nyonya Shutters VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
These elegant louvered
shutters, made of overlapping Practical Information
movable wooden slats, draw on 50 Jalan Tun Tan Cheng Lock.
European design and are a Tel (06) 283-1273. Open daily for
common feature of 19th-century guided tours only, 10am–1pm
Baba-Nyonya architecture. (last tour starts 11:45am) & 2–5pm
(last tour starts 4pm). 7 no lift to
first floor. ^ & under-5s free.
∑ babanyonyamuseum.com
Baba-Nyonya Porcelain
This distinctive pink and green porcelain,
decorated with floral motifs and Buddhist
symbols, was made to order in China
for wealthy Baba-Nyonya
customers.
Museum Guide
After walking through the impressive Guest Hall,
continue beyond the glass partition into the living
area. Take the stairs to the master bedroom and the
funerary room on the first floor. Descend at the rear
of the building to the kitchen area and return to the main
entrance passing the ancestral altar en route.
Key
Bedroom
Kitchen
Ancestor worship
Guest hall
Dark chamber
Funerary room
Bathroom
Exhibition space
Non-exhibition space
The kitchen is
perfectly preserved
and stocked with
traditional objects,
including a
noodle press.
. Ancestral Altar Façade
A common feature of The façade is typical of the ornate and eclectic
Chinese homes, this styles favored by the 19th-century Baba-Nyonya.
family altar has Ming It incorporates Chinese style with elements of
dynasty-style carvings European design, such as stucco pilasters, Rococo
of dragons and bats. plasterwork, and louvered windows.
The bronze cherub
lamps show a strong
European influence.
134 MALAYSIA REGION BY REGION
O Pulau Kukup
g from Kukup jetty. n Pulau Kukup
Johor National Park, 1319 Mukim
Air Masin, (07) 696-9355.
∑ johorparks.blogspot.hk
Boats moored at jetties in the old port town of Muar 7 Johor Bahru
5 Muar Kukup is a traditional fishing 2 miles (3 km) N of Singapore;
village, complete with old- 124 miles (200 km) SE of Melaka.
28 miles (45 km) SE of Melaka. fashioned kampung-style * 1,065,000. k Senai. ~ £ @
* 329,000. @ from Melaka and wooden houses on stilts. g n 2 Jalan Air Molek, (07) 223-
Kuala Lumpur. g from Dumai, 4935. _ Johor Cultural Festival (Jul).
Sumatra. _ Water Sports The village is famous for its ∑ johortourism.com
Festival (Sep). seafood, with chili crabs being
the local specialty, and the The capital city of Johor state,
The bustling riverside town of many seafront restaurants do a commonly known as JB,
Muar, also known as Bandar roaring trade with weekend sprawls across the southern
Maharani or Empress Town, is visitors, many coming from tip of the peninsula facing
bypassed by most tourists, but Singapore. Offshore lies Pulau Singapore over the narrow
its colorful history and elegant Kukup, one of the world’s strait. The planned special
colonial architecture make it a largest uninhabited mangrove economic zone of Iskandar
pleasant stopover. islands. Once the haunt of Malaysia encompasses JB,
pirates, it has been declared a and the government is
The town was once a major national park and wetland area investing a vast amount of
trading port, and its former status of international importance. money into its creation.
can be seen in the collection of A regular ferry service to the
impressive colonial buildings island allows visitors a glimpse Aside from the excitement
standing close to the waterfront of this fascinating protected over the development of
on Jalan Maharani, including ecosystem. Its wildlife includes the region, Johor Bahru has a
the grand Royal Customs and wild pigs, crabs, and numerous number of sights worth visiting.
Excise Building, dating from species of birds. The Royal Sultan Abu Bakar
1909. Also here is a row of Museum, housed in the
early 20th-century shophouses, sparkling white Victorian Istana
and nearby is the magnificent Besar, or Great Palace, west of
Sultan Ibrahim Mosque, with the city center. Built in 1866, it
its soaring four-story minaret, is one of the oldest buildings
completed in 1930. in Johor Bahru and is set in
extensive landscaped grounds
Muar is renowned as a center overlooking the Strait of
of Malay culture. However, Singapore. The palace is
it is best known for its food,
in particular the popular
mee bandung Muar, a tasty
concoction of noodles, eggs,
prawns, and chili in beef broth,
and ikan asam pedas, a sour
and spicy fish dish.
6 Kukup
25 miles (40 km) SW of Johor Bahru.
* 3,000. @ from Johor Bahru
to Pontian Kecil, then taxi.
n (07) 223-4935.
Sitting on the southwestern tip Fountain in the Royal Sultan Abu Bakar Mosque, Johor Bahru
of Johor close to the southern-
most point of continental Asia,
For hotels and restaurants see pp279–80 and pp294–5
SOUTHERN PENINSULA 135
now a museum devoted to the Luxurious swimming pool at one of Desaru Beach’s hotel resorts
royal family and is still used for
occasional official ceremonies. 9 Mersing Just a handful of the islands
Photographs, costumes, are big enough to support
weapons, and other royal 124 miles (200 km) N of Johor Bahru. tiny villages and some
mementos are on show in the * 68,000. @ from Kuala Lumpur secluded beach resorts,
lavishly furnished rooms, such and Singapore. g to Pulau Tioman. which range from simple
as the Hunting Room featuring n Jalan Abu Bakar, (07) 799-5212. beach huts to smart hotels
stuffed tigers, elephant-foot with restaurants and
umbrella stands, and suchlike. This fishing town is the main swimming pools. The larger
access point for Pulau Tioman and more developed islands
LEGOLAND® Malaysia has (see pp136–7) and the islands are Pulau Besar, Sibu, and
more than 40 rides, shows, of the Seribuat Archipelago. Tinggi, renowned for their
and attractions and is a popular Many people spend a night fine sandy beaches and
attraction. The centerpiece here en route but there is not a excellent snorkeling and
is Miniland, where Asian land- great deal to do in this slow- diving opportunities among
marks have been recreated paced town except to enjoy the abundant coral reefs.
using more than 30 million its unspoilt nature and watch Smaller islands provide a more
LEGO bricks. the boats set sail. sedate experience, such as
Pulau Rawa, which has two
Also of interest nearby is 0 Seribuat acccommodation options. The
the Sultan Abu Bakar Mosque, Archipelago remote islands, including Pulau
an Anglo-Malay edifice that Pemanggil, Dayang, and Aur,
was erected in 1893 and can 59 miles (95 km) S of Kuantan. g have basic facilities, but are
hold up to 2,000 worshipers. from Mersing; each of the private rich in marine life and popular
The Sultan Ibrahim Building resorts runs a ferry service for guests. with more intrepid divers.
with its 210-ft (64-m-) high
Mughal-style tower dominates Off the east coast of Johor lies Tour operators in Mersing
the skyline. During World War the Seribuat Archipelago, run island-hopping trips
II, it was used by the Japanese made up of 64 volcanic islands, stopping off at a few of the
but today houses state the largest being Pulau Tioman islands, but otherwise access
government offices. (see pp136–7). Most are tiny is restricted to guests at the
and uninhabited and can only private resorts. Ferries to Pulau
E Royal Sultan Abu Bakar be reached by chartering Sibu depart from Tanjung
Museum a private boat, but they are Leman, 37 miles (60 km)
Jalan Ibrahim. Tel (07) 223-0555. Open among the most beautiful south of Mersing, and take about
8am–5pm Sat–Thu. & 7 limited. islands in Malaysia. an hour to reach the island.
LEGOLAND® Malaysia
7 Jalan Legoland, Iskandar Malaysia,
JB. @ from JB, Singapore. Tel (07)
597-8888. Open 10am–8pm daily. &
∑ legoland.com.my
8 Desaru Beach
55 miles (88 km) E of Johor Bahru.
@ from Johor Bahru to Kota Tinggi,
then taxi. g from Singapore to
Tanjung Belungkor, then bus.
∑ desaru.com.my
The seaside resort of Desaru
boasts over 15 miles (25 km)
of fine, white sandy beaches
fringed with casuarinas. It
attracts more than one million
visitors every year, and is part-
icularly popular with weekend
trippers from nearby Singapore.
The government has invested
money into developing Desaru
into a popular tourist
destination, and the small hotels
and quiet beaches have been
replaced with luxury resorts,
golf courses, and theme parks.
136 MALAYSIA REGION BY REGION
q Pulau Tioman . Snorkeling
Easy to arrange either alone or
The largest of Malaysia’s east coast islands, Tioman is famed on organized trips, snorkeling is
for its soft, sandy beaches, warm waters, and coral reef. Its a captivating way to observe
past is shrouded in myth – it is said that a dragon princess coral life.
stopped here to break a long journey. She loved it so much
that she stayed and her body was transformed into Pulau
Tioman. Most of the resorts are strung out on isolated bays
along the western coast. Diving and snorkeling opportunities
in the protected marine park are superb, but jungle hiking
and sunbathing are also popular activities. The island is a
haven for wildlife – more than 140 different bird species live
here. Monitor lizards, snakes, monkeys, and porcupines thrive
in the jungle interior thanks to the absence of large predators,
while the sea teems with countless varieties of tropical fish.
0 km 3
0 miles 3
Mersing
Coco Melina
Genting Paya
Nipah Berjaya Tioman
Beach Resort
Nipah and Spa
Lalang
Twin Peaks Bagus Gunung Kajang
The twin peaks of Bukit Nenek Minang 3,994 ft
Semukut are often shrouded in mist. Butun
Legend has it they are the horns of Bukit Nenek
the dragon princess. Semukut
2,264 ft
Mukut Raya Keliling
Mentawak
Bukit Seperok Ali’sHTiekkienkg–TJruaailra
3,133 ft Falls
Kampung Asah Juara
Lubok
Teja
. Asah Waterfall
A short walk from Kampung Asah
is this picturesque waterfall, which
was once used as a backdrop in
the 1958 film South Pacific.
Juara
Home to a large resort, secluded
Juara is located in a beautiful
curving bay on the east coast. It has
the finest white-sand beach on
Tioman but the sea can be rough.
For hotels and restaurants see pp279–80 and pp294–5
SOUTHERN PENINSULA 137
. Tekek–Juara Hiking Trail VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
This sometimes challenging 5-mile (8-km) trail cuts
across the island through jungle that is full of wildlife, Practical Information
streams, and waterfalls. It takes about three hours to 19 miles (30 km) NE of Mersing.
reach Juara from Tekek. n Mersing Tourist Information
Center, Jalan Abu Bakar, (07) 799-
Pulau 5212. 0 - =
Tulai ∑ pulautioman.com.my
Transport
g from Mersing. Note: water
taxis and round-island boat
trips are available.
Air Batang Panuba
Salang
Tekek
Salang Beach
Tioman’s most northerly resort, Salang has a short,
sandy beach and shallow waters. There are plenty of
budget accommodations and seafront bars
providing low-key nightlife.
Key Air Batang
Popularly known as ABC,
Minor road this lively resort is a favorite
Trail backpacker hangout,
Ferry route although better beaches
Peak can be found elsewhere.
KEY Coral Reef For keys to symbols see back flap
With more than
1 Monkey Beach is a secluded 180 coral species,
cove with deep, clear water – ideal Tioman’s waters
for diving. offer some of the
most rewarding
2 Pulau Tulai has reefs that are diving in Malaysia.
popular with snorkelers and divers.
MALAYSIA REGION BY REGION 139
EASTERN AND CENTRAL
PENINSULA
The Eastern and Central Peninsula is blessed with some of the most
beautiful natural features in Malaysia. Rising in the west are the lush
forested Titiwangsa mountains, to the east of which lie Kelantan,
Pahang, and Terengganu. Dominated by a vast rain forest and flanked by
an unbroken coastline with delightful beaches and islands, the region is
considered the heartland of Muslim Malay culture.
The three states of this region share a of the 19th century, which attracted Asian
similar early history, having been vassals of immigrants, they retained a rural and
Siam (now Thailand) and under the rule of predominantly Malay character. These
the Sultanate of Melaka in the 14th and states are still considered the conservative
15th centuries. Thereafter, Pahang was Malay Muslim heartland of the country.
ruled by the sultans of Johor until the The interior regions are inhabited by
British took control and made it one of Orang Asli and Orang Syam people.
the Federated Malay States. Terengganu
and Kelantan continued to be under The east coast possesses a rural
Siamese rule through the 19th century. tranquility and offers spectacular natural
In 1909, they became part of the scenery. Pahang is home to Taman
Unfederated Malay States. In 1963, all Negara, the country’s premier national
three states were incorporated into the park, as well as a host of offshore islands
Federation of Malaysia. and some of Malaysia’s best beaches.
While the towns and villages of
Physically cut off from the west coast by Terengganu are centers for Malay handi-
the jungle interior, and free from British crafts, those of Kelantan are the best
control until the 19th century, the eastern places to see traditional activities, such as
and central states developed at a different fishing. Trips along the east coast may
pace, commercially and culturally. become difficult during the rainy season,
Separated from the tin and rubber boom between November and March.
The colorful fishing boats on Sabak Beach, Kelantan
An Orang Asli boy climbing a tree in Taman Negara
140 MALAYSIA REGION BY REGION TUMPAT PANTAI
DASAR
Exploring the Eastern and SABAK
Central Peninsula
KOTA BHARU
This region offers spectacular natural beauty with the WAT MACHIMMARAM
magnificent Taman Negara and Endau-Rompin national
parks located in its forested interiors and an endless WAT
coastline of white-sand beaches and stunning offshore PHOTHIVIHAN Ketareh
islands. Pulau Redang, Pulau Tenggol, and the Perhentian
Islands are home to a fascinating underwater world and Banding Jeli Macang
offer some of Malaysia’s top diving and snorkeling. While Batu
Kuantan, the capital of Pahang, is a transport hub for Melintang Kuala
the region and used mostly as a transit point, especially Kerai
for nearby beaches and the picturesque Tasik Chini, the
two other state capitals, Kuala Terengganu and Kota Jerimbong
Bharu, are rich in Malay culture.
Kemubu
Gunung Camah Bertam
7,099 ft
KELANTAN
Sights at a Glance Islands and Beaches Titiwangsa Mountains THE JUNGLE RAILWAY
8 Pulau Tenggol
Towns and Cities 9 Pulau Kapas Sungai
1 Kuantan w Pulau Redang Kemudu
4 Pekan e Perhentian Islands
5 Cherating y Pantai Dasar Sabak Gua Musang
q Kuala Terengganu
r Kota Bharu pp152–3 Tour Merapoh
t Tumpat o The Jungle Railway p155
Gunung Tahan
Parks and Preserves 7,085 ft
6 Endau-Rompin National Park
7 Taman Negara pp144–5 Cegar Perah
Jelai
Places of Worship
u Wat Phothivihan 0 km 25 Beluan Kuala Lipis
i Wat Machimmaram 0 miles Sega
Kuala
Areas of Natural Beauty 25 Tembeling
2 Gua Charas
3 Tasik Chini Jerantut
0 Tasik Kenyir
Raub
Bentong
Karak
Kuala
Lumpur
Bahau
Fishermen and women drying their catch by the sea in Kuantan
For hotels and restaurants see pp280–81 and pp295–6
EASTERN AND CENTRAL PENINSULA 141
Jelawat PERHENTIAN Getting Around
ISLANDS
Kuantan, Kuala Terengganu, and Kota Bharu are
Pasir PULAU served by domestic airports. Route 3, a major
Puteh Kuala Besut REDANG
national road, runs the length of the three states,
Raja and a good bus network serves the region.
Jerteh
While the condition of the major roads is good and
Pulau Bidung traffic is safe, the quality of the minor roads that
branch off to the interior tends to deteriorate,
Pasir Akar Laut South
Penarek necessitating 4WD vehicles. It is easiest to visit the
national parks with a tour group. The railroad is a
China
pleasant travel option. Regular ferries connect the
mainland with the offshore islands.
Keruak Merang Sea
Timur MountainsGunung Lawit Seberang Takir
4,967 ft
Pulau Duyung
Key
KUALA
Highway
TERENGGANU PULAU Major road
Minor road
Marang KAPAS Railroad
International border
Berang State border
TASIK KENYIR Peak
Rantau Abang
T E R E N G G A N U Jerangau
Dungun
TAMAN N E G A R A Bukit Besi PULAU
TENGGOL
Paka
Tembeling Kerteh
an
PAHANG Air Jernih Kijal
Tekai Air Putih Cukai
Ceneh CHERATING
GUA CHARAS
Sungai Lembing Beserah
Kuala Kerau Paya Bungur Kuant KUANTAN
Te l u k
Chempedak
Maran Kuala Temai
Pahang Lubuk Lepar Hilir
Paku PEKAN
Temerloh
TASIK CHINI
Kerayong
Triang
Tasik Bera Aur Muadzam Tanjung Batu
Shah
Gemas Kota Bahagia Shaded jetty providing a mooring for the small craft
Kajang that ply the Perhentian Islands
Petoh
Segamat Rompin Kuala Rompin
Tanjung Gemok
ENDAU-ROMPIN Mersing
NATIONAL PARK
For keys to symbols see back flap
142 MALAYSIA REGION BY REGION
dedicated to Kuan Yin, the
Chinese goddess of mercy, and
to several bodhisattvas.
3 Tasik Chini
85 miles (138 km) SW of Kuantan on
Federal Hwy 82. @ to Felda Chini –
3.1 miles (5 km) S of Tasik Chini, then
taxi; to Maran, then taxi to Kampung
Belimbing, then boat. ®
Ferries docked in Kuantan, capital of Pahang Nestled in the hills, deep in
Malaysia’s forested interior, Tasik
1 Kuantan zoo safari, and a man-made Chini is a collection of beautiful
lake, making it popular with lakes connected by waterways
160 miles (259 km) E of Kuala Lumpur. families. There are several teeming with fish and birds and
* 315,000. ~ @ g n Jalan hotels on-site. framed by giant trees. The best
Makhota, (09) 517-7111. time to visit is between June
∑ pahangtourism.com.my Bukit Gambang Resort City and September when the lakes
Jalan Bukit Gambang Utama. are covered with red and white
The capital of Pahang, Kuantan is Tel (09) 548-8000. & ® lotus blooms. Around the
a commercial town and a major Water park: Open 10:30am–6:30pm shores live the indigenous
transport hub, located at the Mon, Wed & Thu; 9:30am–6:30pm Jakun people, belonging to the
mouth of Sungai Kuantan. The Fri–Sun. ∑ bgrc.com.my Orang Asli community. Sadly,
town has a few sites of interest these people are struggling to
and is visited mostly by travelers 2 Gua Charas protect their traditional way of
en route to the attractive beaches life and fight pollution of this
and riverside villages nearby. 15 miles (25 km) NW of Kuantan. lovely environment by the
@ from Kuantan. mining and logging industries.
Overlooking the padang at Kampung Gumum is a small
the heart of town is the stun- Near the small settlement of Orang Asli settlement at the
ning Moorish-style Masjid Panching, Gua Charas is a northern end of the lakes,
Negeri, or state mosque. It is series of deep caves set where friendly locals show
crowned with a blue and white dramatically in a massive visitors around their homes and
dome and is surrounded by four limestone karst outcrop. In display their traditional handi-
Ottoman-style minarets. It also 1954, the Sultan of Pahang crafts. At the village, accom-
features stained-glass windows, granted permission to a Thai modation is also available.
a rare feature in Malaysian Buddhist monk to convert the
Islamic architecture. The mosque main cave into a Buddhist Although public transport to
is illuminated every night. The shrine. A steep ascent up 200 the lakes is not conveniently
redeveloped riverfront of steps leads to this enormous accessible, once there, the entire
Kuantan offers pleasant views cave, which contains several lake system can be explored by
and has shops that sell excellent religious images carved out of boat, organized by the resort
local handicrafts. From the jetty, stone. Dominating the cave is and the village. Several trails of
boat trips take visitors to the a 30-ft- (9-m-) long Sleeping varying lengths weave through
nearby fishing village of Buddha. Next to it are shrines the area. Day tours to Tasik Chini
Tanjung Lumpur as well as to a can be arranged from Kuantan
mangrove forest reserve. and Cherating.
Environs The enormous Sleeping Buddha enshrined at Gua Charas
Just 3 miles (5 km) east of the
capital, Teluk Chempedak, or
jackfruit bay, is Kuantan’s main
attraction. It marks the
beginning of the splendid
beaches on the east coast and
is famous locally for its sands
and waves. Besides an array of
watersports, there are several
walking trails. Located 20 miles
(35 km) southeast of Kuantan is
Bukit Gambang Resort City.
The resort has many attractions
including a vast water park, a
For hotels and restaurants see pp280–81 and pp295–6
EASTERN AND CENTRAL PENINSULA 143
6 Endau-Rompin
National Park
35 miles (57 km) S of Kuantan. @ to
Kahang, then 4WD for Peta; or to
Bekok, then 4WD for Selai. n (07)
223-7471. Closed during monsoon
season (Nov–Mar). & 8 guides
mandatory. 0 ®
∑ johorparks.blogspot.hk
The impressive Buaya Sangkut cascades at Endau-Rompin National Park Named for the two rivers that
bound it, the 336-sq-mile (870-
4 Pekan 5 Cherating sq-km) Endau-Rompin National
Park is among the last remaining
27 miles (44 km) S of Kuantan on 29 miles (47 km) N of Kuantan on stretches of lowland forest in
Federal Hwy 3. * 30,000. @ from Federal Hwy 3. * 2,000. @ from Malaysia. It nurtures a splendid
Kuantan. ∑ pekan.my Kuantan, Kota Bharu, Kuala variety of flora and fauna and is
Terengganu. 0 one of the few habitats of the
Located on the south bank Sumatran rhinoceros. The park’s
of Sungai Pahang, the longest Occupying a windswept bay varied landscape allows for a
river in Malaysia, is the town facing the South China Sea, variety of activities, such as
of Pekan, the former royal the palm-fringed fishing village trekking, rafting, climbing, and
capital of Pahang. of Cherating is one of the best abseiling. There are entrances at
beaches on Malaysia’s lovely Peta, near Mersing, and, less
Scattered along the busy east coast. Well provided with accessibly, at Selai.
riverfront street at the town’s accommodation of all types,
northern edge are many of its from budget guesthouses to At the confluence of Sungai
attractions, including a row of high-end resorts, Cherating is a Endau and Sungai Jasir is the
beautiful Chinese shophouses very popular destination. The base camp, Kuala Jasin, 9 miles
with jack roofs, many of which waters here are ideal for surfing, (15 km) from the park head-
are antiques shops, and the especially during November quarters. From here, a 4-hour trail
Sultan Abu Bakar Museum. and December. Another area of leads to Janing Barat Plateau
Housed in a Victorian palace, interest, around 6 miles (10 km) while two other routes trace the
once the residence of the Johor from Cherating, is Chendor Sungai Jasin leading to the park’s
royal family, this interactive Beach. Visitors come here for most spectacular waterfall,
museum exhibits a collection of sightings of green turtles and, Buaya Sangkut. Visitors are also
royal regalia, weapons, and occasionally, giant leatherbacks, welcome at the Orang Asli
Chinese porcelain, some of which come ashore to lay their villages that dot the area.
which were salvaged from a eggs between April and
wrecked junk (Asian shipping September, the nesting period. All visitors must carry entry
vessel). Visitors can stroll around There are also some secluded permits, which can be obtained
the attractive gardens for free. bathing spots. The Chendor for free from Kuala Rompin or
Nearby are two white marble Turtle Sanctuary is worth a the park headquarters, or for a
mosques, the blue-domed visit, especially at nesting time. fee from Johor Bahru. An
Masjid Abdullah, which dates organized tour is the best way
back to the 1920s, and the to explore the park, either
newer Masjid Abu Bakar, with through the Johor Parks
its more conventional golden Corporation or a travel agency;
domes. Farther away from the accommodations are limited,
river is the royal quarter, with its and ideally three days are
lavish Istana Abu Bakar, or royal needed to cover the park.
palace, overlooking a polo
ground. The Kedah Royal
Mausoleum, dating back to
1778, is also nearby.
E Sultan Abu Bakar Museum The sky-blue-domed Masjid Abdullah at the former royal capital of Pekan
Jalan Sultan Ahmad. Tel (09) 422-1371.
Open 9am–5pm Tue–Sun (9am–
noon, 2:40–5pm Fri). &
144 MALAYSIA REGION BY REGION
7 Taman Negara KELANTAN TERENGGANU
Established in 1938, Taman Negara is Malaysia’s oldest and Area of map
largest national park. Extending across 1,660 sq miles Illustrated
(4,300 sq km) of pristine rain forest, the park encompasses
parts of three states: Pahang, Kelantan, and Terengganu. • PAHANG
A profusion of birdlife can be spotted here, along with rare Kuala
animals such as the Indochinese tiger, Sumatran rhinoceros, Tahan
Malayan gaur, and Asian elephant. Access to the park is
spectacular, involving a 37-mile (60-km) boat journey Four Steps
along the lovely Sungai Tembeling, passing Orang Asli Waterfall
villages en route. Be aware, however, that during the rainy
season the park may be inaccessible. Gunung Tahan
7,152 ft Padang
Gunung Gedongunung Taha
6,752 ft
. Gunung Tahan
The 7,175-ft- (2,187-m-) high Gunung Tahan is the highest peak in G Kuala
Peninsular Malaysia. The long trek to the summit is very demanding Teku
with the route passing rivers and undulating ridges before finally
reaching the peak. n Trail
Kuala Puteh
Boat Trips Ten
At the Mutiara
Taman Negara Rentis Tenor Trail
Resort park
headquarters, boats or
can be hired for
trips to the Lata
Berkoh rapids, as
well as for fishing
trips to the Tahan
and Kenyam rivers.
Bukit Guling
Gendang
1,864 ft
KEY Hornbills Atok
For many the main
1 Bukit Guling Gendang, at a
height of 1,864 ft (568 m), offers attraction of Taman
panoramic views across virgin rain
forest from its summit. Negara is its abundant
2 Gua Telinga, a limestone cave,
is one of the most easily accessible birdlife. The park is home
in the park. Guided by a rope,
visitors can follow a stream to rare hornbills, including
through the cavern.
the wreathed hornbill,
For hotels and restaurants see pp280–81 and pp295–6
great hornbill, Indian pied
hornbill, and the
rhinoceros hornbill.
Asian Elephants EASTERN AND CENTRAL PENINSULA 145
Taman Negara is a haven
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
for endangered species
such as the Asian elephant. Practical Information
106 miles (170 km) W of Kuantan.
Wild elephants are often n Kuala Tahan, (09) 266-1122.
relocated here from the Permits: available at Department
of Wildlife and National Parks.
surrounding region. ∑ taman-negara.com
Transport
@ to Kuala Tembeling, then boat
to Kuala Tahan.
0 km 5
0 miles 5
Keny . Bukit Teresek
The climb up to the
am
summit of Bukit
Perkai Teresek along a
Lodge muddy track takes
over an hour but is
well worth the effort
for the great views
across the valley to
Gunung Tahan and
Gunung Perlis.
Terenggan Kuala Key
Keniam
Trail
Melantai
Park boundary
hanTa
Lata Exploring the Park
Kuala All trails start from or near park headquarters and have
Berkoh Kenyam Terenggan been marked or signposted. The two main trails in the
park are the 9-day, 34-mile (55-km) trek to Gunung
Kuala Tahan and the 4-day, 10-mile (16-km) Rentis Tenor loop
Melantai trail. However, the most heavily used trail in the park is
the short 1.6-mile (2-km) route to Bukit Teresek, which
Bukit Teresek also leads on to Bukit Indah. Guides are compulsory for
1,122 ft the longer, more strenuous treks.
Mutiara Taman Kuala
Negara Resort Tahan
Yong
Tembeling Sungei Tiang
Airstrip
Kuala Kuala . Canopy Walkway
Atok Tembeling A 1,673-ft (510-m) walkway, one of the world’s longest, runs through the canopy at
Kuala Tahan. Suspended 147 ft (45 m) above the ground, it enables visitors to
explore the rain forest from a novel perspective.
For keys to symbols see back flap
146 MALAYSIA REGION BY REGION
Clear blue waters lapping the pristine shore marine life. A ban on fishing, programs. The island is an
of Pulau Tenggol spear-fishing, and any other excellent place for swimming,
form of marine life harvesting windsurfing, and sea kayaking
8 Pulau Tenggol ensures a rewarding under- or just relaxing under the palm
water diving experience. trees. A walking track that cuts
8 miles (13 km) E of Kuala Dungun. There are at least ten dive across the island to its isolated
4 from Kuala Dungun. ® sites in this group of islands, eastern shore offers panoramic
but most of them are deep- views.
Part of a group of 12 small and water and suitable only for
remote islands, Pulau Tenggol is divers with prior experience. 0 Tasik Kenyir
a renowned diving destination
on the east coast of Malaysia. 9 Pulau Kapas 34 miles (55 km) SW of Kuala
Uninhabited until the 1970s, the Terengganu. @ from Kuala Lumpur.
island was developed into a dive 4 miles (6 km) E of Marang. 4 from from Kuala Terengganu. 8 boat
site (see p314) and is now part of Marang. 0 - = ® tours. ® ∑ kenyirlake.com
the Terengganu Marine Park.
A small, beautiful island with Extending over 100 sq miles
The blue waters around white-sand beaches and daz- (260 sq km) and containing
the densely forested islands zling waters, Pulau Kapas, or around 350 small islands, Tasik
harbor spectacular underwater cotton island, is a designated Kenyir is the largest man-made
cliffs, boulders, and coral reefs marine park and promoted as a lake in Southeast Asia. It was
that shelter a variety of colorful diving and snorkeling paradise. created by the construction of
Located to the north is the a dam on the Sungai Kenyir in
much smaller islet of Pulau 1985. Surrounded by lush
Gemia, which can only be tropical jungle, which is home
visited by guests of its resort. to a number of wildlife species,
including thousands of
The best sites for snorkeling hornbills, Tasik Kenyir has been
on Pulau Kapas are found developed as an ecotourism
around its northern shore as destination, and is also a duty-
well as around Pulau Gemia. free zone. Today, there are some
North of Gemia, a sunken World 15 resorts around the lake.
War II shipwreck is one of the Among the highlights of the
most popular sites. All the lake are 14 picturesque
resorts on Kapas can arrange waterfalls, which cascade into
diving trips. There is also a natural pools. These can be
professional scuba-diving reached by boat from the
center that offers training lake’s main jetty. Boat trips can
also be taken to the limestone
Bewah Caves at the southern
end of the lake. There is an
elephant sanctuary and a
canopy walk along the water’s
edge. The best time to visit is
between February and June
when the water level is high
due to the monsoon season.
A trained monkey selecting a ripe coconut One of the 14 beautiful waterfalls at
Tasik Kenyir
Coconut-Collecting Monkeys
It is common practice in Peninsular Malaysia to train monkeys to
shin up palm trees, twist off the coconuts, and throw them to the
ground where they are gathered up by the tree’s owner. It has
been estimated that after about three months’ training, monkeys
can harvest at least five times as many coconuts per day than a
human collector, chiefly due to their speed, agility, and ease with
heights. Kampung Jenang, near Marang in Terengganu, has
made a thriving business out of this technique. A monkey-training
school established by Muda Mamat, a local villager, now even
tutors monkeys belonging to coconut plantation owners from
neighboring states for a steep fee.
For hotels and restaurants see pp280–81 and pp295–6
EASTERN AND CENTRAL PENINSULA 147
Exquisite traditional Malay houses in the grounds of Terengganu State Museum Complex
q Kuala Terengganu Zainal Abidin, with golden traditional Malay stilt house,
domes and a single, towering contains displays of textiles,
138 miles (220 km) N of Kuantan. * minaret. A number of fascinating handicrafts, Islamic artifacts, and
275,000. ~ @ 4 n Plaza Padang sights are within easy reach of a gallery dedicated to the state’s
Negara, (09) 623-1553. ∑ tourism. the capital, including the petroleum industry. Within the
terengganu.gov.my Terengganu State Museum grounds are several traditional
Complex, the Masjid Tengku Malay boats and houses as well
The state capital and the seat Tengah Zaharah, and the island as a maritime museum. The
of the sultans of Terengganu, of Pulau Duyung (see p149), highlight of the complex,
Kuala Terengganu is a former which is host to the prestigious however, is the Istana Tengku
fishing village that was trans- Monsoon Cup yachting race. Long, a wooden palace that
formed into an affluent city dates back to 1880, with
from the revenue of its South E Terengganu State exhibits of royal artifacts.
China Sea oilfields. Museum Complex
Losong, 2 miles (3 km) SW of Kuala U Masjid Tengku Tengah
The city remains a stronghold Terengganu. Tel (09) 622-1444. Zaharah
of Malay culture, with colorful Open 9am–5pm daily. 3 miles (5 km) SE of Kuala Terengganu.
markets and vibrant traditional Closed noon–3pm Fri. & Owing to its location by the
handicraft workshops where water, Masjid Tengku Tengah
visitors can buy batik, brocade, One of the largest museums in Zaharah is also referred to as
songket, brassware, and Southeast Asia, Muzium Negeri the Floating Mosque. This
basketware. The busiest spot in Terengganu, or Terengganu sparkling white mosque is
town is the Pasar Payang, or State Museum Complex, set in a park and combines
central market. All kinds of consists of several buildings modern and traditional Moorish
foods including fresh fish, fruit, sprawled across landscaped architecture. The mosque is
and vegetables are available gardens. The main building, closed to non-Muslims.
here. The nearby Waterfront which is a reproduction of a
Heritage Bazaar is another good
place to browse. South of the Fresh vegetables at the Pasar Payang in Kuala Terengganu
market is the compact
Chinatown. Its crescent-shaped
street is lined with restored
shophouses and restaurants, as
well as a Buddhist temple.
Just a short walk away from
the market, in the opposite
direction, is the colonial-style,
apricot-colored Istana Maziah,
which is the sultan’s palace. It is
closed to the public except for
some ceremonial occasions.
Nearby is the beautiful Masjid
148 MALAYSIA REGION BY REGION
Holidaymakers relaxing on one of the quiet, beautiful beaches of Pulau Perhentian Besar
w Pulau Redang e Perhentian hawksbill turtles lay their
Islands eggs between May and
38 miles (62 km) N of Kuala September, when the bay is
Terengganu. g from Merang and 12 miles (20 km) NW of Kuala closed to visitors.
Kuala Terengganu. 0 - ® Terengganu. g from Kuala Besut.
∑ redang.org 0-® Pulau Perhentian Kecil is
Located off the Terengganu smaller than Pulau Perhentian
One of the largest and most coast, Pulau Perhentian Besar Besar, but is otherwise an exact
beautiful of the east coast islands, and Pulau Perhentian Kecil replica of it, with beautiful
Pulau Redang is also the most together comprise the beaches, coconut palms, and
developed. It is set at the center Perhentian Islands, which means azure waters. A small village
of the Redang Archipelago, stopping-place islands. Breath- on its southeastern coast is
a group of nine islands that takingly beautiful, the islands inhabited by people originally
together constitute a protected have inevitably attracted a great from Sulawesi in Indonesia. The
marine park. With crystal-clear deal of development but still island’s main attraction is the
waters and a wealth of marine retain their appeal. Both islands east-facing Pasir Panjang, or
life sustained by some of feature white-sand beaches and Long Beach.
Malaysia’s best coral reefs, the an aquamarine sea that is home
island offers excellent diving and to spectacular coral reefs Of the two islands, the more
snorkeling opportunities. Sadly, teeming with an astounding expensive accommodations,
silt and building waste have variety of marine life. Besides with quieter ambience, are
damaged the coral, but active diving and snorkeling, other available in Perhentian Besar.
efforts are being made to activities available on the islands Dozens of resorts and
prevent further damage and include sailing, windsurfing, guesthouses are clustered
even snorkeling has been and jungle walks. around the southwestern shore.
restricted to certain parts of With the vast abundance of
the reef. The permitted areas Among the beaches on Pulau cheaper hotels and restaurants,
do, however, offer superb Perhentian Besar is the exquisite Perhentian Kecil is attractive
opportunities for underwater Three Coves Bay, a group of to backpackers.
exploration. The waters also three beaches separated by
contain the historic wrecks of rocky outcrops. This sheltered The islands are usually
two British warships, HMS Repulse spot is where green and packed during the peak
and HMS Prince of Wales, which season between late May and
were sunk off Pulau Redang by Snorkeling in the crystal-clear waters off September, and finding accom-
the Japanese during World War II. the east coast islands modation is difficult. It is worth
exploring options on both
The island’s beaches are set islands since the narrow strait
against a backdrop of verdant separating them is easily
jungle-clad hills. Pasir Panjang crossed by boat. Getting around
and Teluk Dalam Kecil, two of the islands is simple. There
the best beaches, occupy the are some good walking trails
eastern coast and have most of but the best way to hop
the resorts. Kampung Air, Pulau between beaches is by boat,
Redang’s main village, sits at the which can be arranged by most
center of the island. resort and chalet owners.
Most travelers visit the island Northwest of these islands lie
on a package tour but dive trips the smaller, uninhabited Pulau
can also be arranged from the Susu group covered in virgin
Perhentian Islands. forests. They provide one of the
best diving sites in the region.
For hotels and restaurants see pp280–81 and pp295–6
EASTERN AND CENTRAL PENINSULA 149
Boatbuilders of Pulau Duyung
Just off the western waterfront of Kuala Terengganu lies Pulau Duyung where
an ancient tradition of boatbuilding still thrives. Decorated vessels, called bangau,
were once made all along the east coast, from Kota Bharu to Kuantan and beyond.
Primarily used as fishing boats, these wooden craft are constructed by master
boatbuilders using techniques passed down through many generations and it is
believed that they are built entirely from memory. Each boat is painted in bright
colors and painstakingly decorated with individual designs, making them unique.
The island is accessible via a causeway from Kuala Terengganu and by ferry from a
jetty near the Seri Malaysia Hotel.
Local shipyards and
workshops are scattered
throughout the island
and visitors are usually
welcome to see the
boatbuilders at work.
Most of the boats are
used by local fishermen,
but their exquisite
craftsmanship has won
them international acclaim.
Boat Design
Most boat designs feature representational characters,
often derived from Hindu mythology. However, these
are becoming rarer as boat designers are increasingly
turning to non-representational Islamic art such as
the elaborate geometric arabesque pattern.
Stylized prows are carved and painted
to represent shadow puppets, birds, and
Garuda, a bird from Hindu mythology.
Rows of vibrant fishing boats line the beaches of Pulau Mythical creatures, such as dragons
Duyung. Originally propelled by oars or sails, many of the and demons, appear to be derived from
boats today are fitted with removable motor engines, both Hindu epics such as the Ramayana.
for convenience as well as modernity.
The boats need to be
brought ashore every
day, far away from
treacherous waves and
close to the tree line.
Therefore, they are
created with an expert
blend of functionality
and aesthetics: sturdy in
order to withstand the
strongest of storms, yet
light enough to be easily
pulled out of the water.
The Pasar Besar or central market at Kota Bharu, which is run mostly by women
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