DK Eyewitness Travel Malaysia _ Singapore 2016

50 INTRODUCING MALAYSIA AND SINGAPORE

Malay Royal Regiment troops patrolling the streets of Kuala Lumpur following the May 13, 1969 riots

Konfrontasi However, in 1965, Singapore reluctantly left
Both Indonesia and the Philippines the Malaysian Federation due to continuing
immediately severed diplomatic relations political disagreements and became an
with the new state of Malaysia. Indonesian independent country. Still, the two neighbors
president Sukarno began a policy of remained closely associated. In 1967,
Konfrontasi, or confrontation, involving Malaysia and Singapore joined the Asso-
infiltration and sabotage. Indonesian armed ciation of Southeast Asian Nations (ASEAN)
troops crossed into Sabah and Sarawak, and and were two of its five original members.
even landed in Peninsular Malaysia and
Singapore. Over the next 4 years the Ethnic and Economic Tensions
Malaysian army, backed by British, New
Zealand, and Australian forces, defeated In the late 1960s, Malaysia and Singapore
Indonesian attempts to subvert the new were still relatively impoverished by the
federation. Malaysia was thus established as effects of war and also riven with ethnic
a secure, internationally recognized state. tensions. The departure of Singapore from
the Federation of Malaysia ensured a Malay
Inaugural meeting of ASEAN members in August 1967 Muslim majority within Malaysia, but Malay
politicians and the ethnic Malay population
were still concerned by the economic
power wielded by the Chinese. In 1967, the
National Language Act was passed to
ensure the primacy of the Malay language.
The move was resented by the Chinese.
Ethnic tensions first came to a head in
Singapore, where there was rioting
between the Malays and Chinese in 1964.

1963 Sukarno starts 1967 Malaysia and 1981 Mahathir Mohamad
policy of Konfrontasi Singapore join ASEAN becomes Malaysia’s fourth
prime minister
1969 Race riots in Kuala Lumpur
1984
1964 1974
Offshore oil rig in
1965 Singapore 1970 Tun Abdul Razak Sarawak
leaves Malaysia and takes over as Malaysia’s
becomes an prime minister; NEP
independent state introduced favoring
the bumiputra

THE HISTORY OF MALAYSIA AND SINGAPORE 51

In the 1969 general elections, the Alliance Kuala Lumpur‘s soaring skyline, dominated by the Petronas Towers,
Party polled less than 50 percent of the a symbol of economic prosperity
popular vote, but retained its majority in
the parliament. A celebration march by the However, under Lee Kuan Yew, Prime
opposition parties led to an outbreak of race Minister from 1959 to 1990, it grew and
riots in Kuala Lumpur on May 13, 1969, when prospered as a powerhouse of light industry
hundreds of ethnic Chinese were massacred. and high technology. It also became one
of the world’s greatest sea ports.
The Malaysian government, under Tun
Abdul Razak, who had taken over from Tunku In 2003, Abdullah Ahmad Badawi took
Abdul Rahman in 1970, was badly shaken. over from Mahathir Mohamad as prime
It responded by introducing the New minister of Malaysia. He resigned in 2009
Economic Policy (NEP) in 1970, which was and was succeeded by Mohammad Najib
designed to favor the bumiputras (see Abdul Razak. In Singapore, Lee Kuan Yew’s
pp26–7) and improve their economic successor, Goh Chok Tong, was replaced by
standing in society. At the same time, the Yew’s son, Lee Hsien Loong, in 2004. Both
authorities made it clear that no further governments have now entered a less
racial attacks on ethnic Chinese would be authoritarian era, although media and
tolerated. The Alliance Party also broadened freedom of speech are still tightly monitored.
its coalition to include members of the In 2013 the Barisan Nasional coalition, led by
opposition and formed the Barisan Nasional Najib Razak, won their 13th victory in a row.
(National Front), which continues to be in The economies of both countries continue
power today. to surge ahead, as do standards of living and
higher education, health, and social services.
Malaysia and Singapore Today

Over the next 20 years, using a cautious
mixture of financial inducements and firm
paternalism, both Malaysia and Singapore
remained peaceful. Malaysia prospered due
to world demand for its rubber, palm oil, tea,
and tin, and by the end of the 1970s, the
development of light industries and the
discovery of oil and natural gas reserves in
the South China Sea provided an extra
boost. A period of remarkable economic and
social development in the 1980s and 1990s
was overseen by Prime Minister Mahathir
Mohamad, who came to power in 1981.

At its independence in 1965, Singapore
seemed to face a bleak economic future.

Prime Minister 2006 Malaysia and Singapore fail to agree on new
Abdullah bridge project linking the two countries
Ahmad Badawi
2015 Death of Lee Kuan Yew;
2007 Malaysia celebrates over a million Singaporeans
50 years of independence queue to pay their respects in
a week of national mourning

1994 2004 2014 2024

2003 Abdullah Badawi 2004 Lee Hsien 2011 Dr Tan Keng Yam Tony is sworn in
becomes Malaysia’s fifth Loong becomes as seventh president of Singapore
Singapore’s third
prime minister prime minister 2009 Mohammad Najib Abdul Razak becomes
Malaysia’s sixth prime minister



MALAYSIA
REGION BY

REGION

Introducing Malaysia 54–61
Kuala Lumpur 62–91
Northwest Peninsula 92–121
Southern Peninsula 122–137
Eastern and Central
138–155
Peninsula 156–179
Sarawak 180–201
Sabah

54 MALAYSIA REGION BY REGION

INTRODUCING MALAYSIA

With its magnificent natural beauty and unique cultural heritage, Malaysia is
a fascinating Southeast Asian destination. A relatively young country that
celebrated 50 years of independence in 2007, it has progressed remarkably
and has emerged as one of the most successful economies in Asia.

Situated at the crossroads of ancient of ministers. The government’s two-tier
maritime trade routes, Malaysia has long parliament consists of a lower house
been a cultural melting pot. The bulk of the with 219 elected representatives and an
population lives on Peninsular Malaysia. upper house with 70 senators. Elections
While about half the country’s 30 million are held every five years. Since
people are of Malay origin, there are independence, the country has been
significant Chinese and Indian minorities, ruled by a multiracial coalition named
as well as many indigenous communities. Barisan Nasional (National Front), of which
The country’s diversity is apparent in its the United Malays National Organization
social customs and festivals, and its many (UMNO) is the largest political party.
cuisines and languages.
Economy
Society and Politics
From the early 1970s through the late
Malaysia is a constitutional monarchy, 1990s, Malaysia transformed itself from
based on the political system of its former an economy based on mining and
colonial ruler, Britain. In practice, however, agriculture to one dominated by
there is more power vested in the manufacturing and exports, particularly
executive branch of government than the of electronic components. Palm oil
judiciary. The country is headed nominally also continues to be one of the most
by a supreme ruler, a rotating position that important exports. Other prominent
is held for a five-year term by sultans of contributors to the economy are oil and
nine hereditary Malay sultanates, while the gas production, timber, and tourism. The
government is led by an elected prime country has maintained steady economic
minister, currently Datuk Seri Mohammed growth over the past couple of decades,
Najib Razak, who is assisted by a cabinet fueling rapid development in the major

The port and the stunning Masjid Negeri in Kuantan, Pahang
Semporna Bay in Sabah

INTRODUCING MALAYSIA 55

A pair of rhinoceros hornbills, the state bird of Sarawak, in the lush Malaysian rain forest

cities. Its main trading partners are the the variety of religions followed here.
USA, China, and Japan, all significant Although Islam is the state religion,
sources of foreign investment. Malaysia’s Buddhism, Hinduism, and Christianity,
economy grew by 6 percent in 2014, one among others, are practiced freely.
of the highest increases in Southeast Asia. Traditional Malay performing arts,
including the fascinating wayang kulit, or
Environment shadow-puppet plays, continue to thrive
and can be seen during festivals or at
Malaysia, like many developing nations, cultural shows. Local pastimes such as
faces its own set of environmental kite-flying and top-spinning are still
issues, including air and water pollution, practiced, particularly on the east coast of
deforestation, and the depletion of wildlife the peninsula. The country has a vibrant
species. Although stretches of the handicrafts tradition, ranging from
country’s ancient rain forests, and the exquisitely woven textiles to basketware
wildlife they shelter, are protected in and woodcarving. Malaysia is also gaining
national parks, intensive logging is chang- a healthy contemporary art scene. Artists
ing the face of the country, transforming such as the collage specialist Yee I-Lann
jungles into barren hillsides. Fortunately, have exhibited in Hong Kong and New York.
several international bodies, such as WWF,
the global conservation organization, are
very active in Malaysia and their persistent
campaigning has at least slowed the rate
of environmental degradation. Despite
their efforts, the Sumatran rhinoceros and
the leatherback turtle face extinction.

Culture and Arts Puppeteer maneuvering figures during a show

Malaysia’s ethnic mosaic endows it
with an infinitely varied and cosmopolitan
culture, assimilating Malay, Chinese, and
Indian customs, traditions, and beliefs, as
well as those of its indigenous peoples.
The ethnic diversity is also reflected in

56 MALAYSIA REGION BY REGION

MALAYSIA THROUGH
THE YEAR

With its blend of diverse ethnic groups of state-specific festivals are celebrated.
and cultures, Malaysia hosts a range of As many people visit family during
festivals and events throughout the year. major festivals, all forms of transport are
The country’s religious festivals include congested. Many religious festivals are
the Islamic Hari Raya Puasa and Hindu based on the lunar calendar, so dates can
Deepavali. Sporting events, such as Formula vary. Islamic festivals, for example, move
1 racing, and traditional pastimes such as forward by about ten days each year in
dancing and martial arts are also enjoyed. relation to the Gregorian calendar. For
In addition to nationwide events, an array exact dates, check with Tourism Malaysia.

January to March honoring Lord Murugan, in Worshipers lighting candles at a church
which thousands of devotees during Easter
Seasons vary little in Malaysia, carry kavadis, or steel arches,
with only the early months of attached to their skin by hooks, Malaysian Open Golf
the year distinguished by heavy and walk in procession from the Championship (Feb),
rain on the east coast of Sri Maha Mariamman Temple nationwide. An international
Peninsular Malaysia. Still, spirits (see p70) to the Batu Caves (see golfing event that takes place
are far from dampened by the p96), one of the largest temple at the top golf courses in the
rain and festivals such as the caves in the country. country, including the Royal
Chinese New Year are Federal Territory Day (Feb 1), Selangor Golf and Country
celebrated with enthusiasm. Kuala Lumpur, Labuan, and Club and the Kuala Lumpur
Putrajaya. Malaysia’s three Golf and Country Club.
Chinese New Year (Jan/Feb), federal territories put on Le Tour de Langkawi (Mar),
nationwide. The streets come parades, firework displays, Langkawi to Merdeka Square
alive to see out the old year and and cultural shows. in Kuala Lumpur. Top cyclists
welcome the new, with dragon World Kite Festival (Feb), Pasir from around the world
dances and Chinese opera Gudang, Johor. an annual event compete over 10 day-long
performances. Debts are paid that attracts kite enthusiasts from stages in Asia’s version of
off, children are given presents around the world. the Tour de France.
of money, and mandarin Hari Raya Haji (variable), Malaysian Grand Prix (usually
oranges – a symbol of good nationwide. This Islamic festival Mar), Selangor. The world’s
luck – are eaten. Many shops celebrates the return of pilgrims fastest Formula 1 drivers
and businesses close for a week. from the Hajj to Mecca with compete at the Sepang
Ponggal (Jan/Feb), nationwide. prayers and animal sacrifices. International Circuit.
A Tamil (southern Indian) This is a public holiday in the Easter (Mar/Apr), nationwide.
harvest festival celebrated by states of Kedah, Kelantan, Perlis, The biggest ceremonies
boiling rice, sugar, and milk until and Terengganu. are held in Melaka with
the pot overflows, symbolizing Chap Goh Mei (usually Feb), candlelit processions at
prosperity. This is offered to nationwide. The fifteenth day churches on Good Friday,
gods at Hindu temples. after the start of the Chinese which is a public holiday in
Thaipusam (Jan/Feb), New Year is marked by feasts Sabah and Sarawak.
nationwide. A Hindu festival and prayers.

Formula 1 cars speed around the track at the Malaysian Grand Prix

MALAYSIA THROUGH THE YEAR 57

April to June

This is the peak of the festival
calendar especially for the
Dayaks of Sarawak who
celebrate the Gawai festival.
Other highlights include the
Buddhist Vesak.

Pesta Kaul (Apr), Mukah. A Orang Ulu dancers in vibrant ethnic costumes at the World Harvest Festival
festival of the Melanau fishing
communities to mark the start Sabah Fest (May), Sabah. A Gawai (early Jun), across Sarawak.
of the fishing season. Dare-devil cultural extravaganza Marking the end of the rice
acts are performed on huge incorporating dance, music, harvest, this festival is the
rattan swings. fashion, and food. highlight of the year for the
Labuan International Sea Colors of Malaysia (May), Dayaks of Sarawak and an
Challenge (Apr), Pulau Labuan. nationwide. A month-long occasion for feasting and
An international competition celebration of Malaysian dancing. There are many versions
that includes fishing, swimming, culture, featuring parades, of Gawai, such as Gawai Padi,
and kayaking events. music, dance, and food. celebrated by the Bidayuh, one
Penang World Music Festival Miri International Jazz Festival of the Dayak groups. It is an ideal
(Apr), Georgetown. Over two (May), Miri. Musicians perform time to visit a longhouse.
nights this UNESCO World funk, fusion, Latin, and blues. Fiesta San Pedro (Jun), Melaka.
Heritage-listed city plays host Tadau Kaamatan (end of May), The Eurasian community, who
to an annual music festival Penampang (Sabah). A festival came here during the
featuring a colorful assortment for the Kadazan Dusun and Portuguese occupation in the
of local and international Murut communities, who 16th century, decorate their
performances. In recent years, celebrate a successful rice crop boats to pay homage to St. Peter.
musicians from Spain, by singing, dancing, and Penang International Dragon
Germany, South Africa, and electing a harvest queen. Boat Festival (Jun/Jul), Penang.
India have participated. Vesak (May/Jun), nationwide. Long rowing boats race to
Prophet Muhammad’s The most important festival of honor the memory of Chinese
Birthday (variable), nationwide. the year for Buddhists, honoring poet Qu Yuan, who drowned
Processions and recitations of the birth, enlightenment, and himself in 278 BC in a protest
the Koran commemorate the death of the Buddha. against corrupt politics.
birth of the Prophet King’s Birthday (1st Sat in Jun), KL International Arts Festival
Muhammad. nationwide. There are processions (Jun/Jul), Kuala Lumpur. A show-
World Harvest Festival (May), in Kuala Lumpur to celebrate case for Malaysian art with some
Sarawak Cultural Village, located the birthday of the king. eye-catching street art.
near Kuching. A cultural
extravaganza in anticipation of
the Gawai festival, featuring
dance and music.

Spectacular celebrations at the Colors of Malaysia festival

58 MALAYSIA REGION BY REGION

Average Monthly Rainfall (Kuala Lumpur) Inches Rainfall Chart
12 Rainfall across the country
MM 9 is variable and it is difficult
300 6 to show a national
3 average. The wettest
240 0 period for the east coast
of Peninsular Malaysia
180 and Malaysian Borneo is
November to March.
120 The west coast of the
peninsula sees rain
60 from April to October.

0
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec

July to September musicians from around the
world as well as rarely heard
The focus of festivities indigenous musicians (see p165).
during these months are Merdeka Eve (Aug 30), nation-
Merdeka Eve and National wide. Fireworks displays
Day at the end of August, and cultural performances in
and Malaysia Day in September. major towns and cities herald
Other colorful and unique National Day.
events include the Borneo National Day (Aug 31),
Cultural Festival in Sibu, the nationwide. Parades, music
Sarawak Regatta, and the shows, and competitions are
Mount Kinabalu Climbathon. among the celebrations that
mark the anniversary of the
Sabah International Fireworks display during National Day country’s independence.
Folklore Festival (Jul), Kota celebrations Festival of the Hungry Ghosts
Kinabalu. Held at the Sabah (Aug/Sep), nationwide. This
Cultural Centre, this week- Malaysia Mega Sale Carnival Chinese festival is held to
long celebration of folk (Jul to Sep), nationwide. Sub- appease the spirits of the
dancing draws ethnic groups stantial discounts are offered dead released from purgatory
from around the world to on goods at shopping malls during the seventh lunar
give performances and and stores. month. Joss sticks, candles,
hold workshops. Kuching Festival (Aug), and paper money are burnt
Borneo Cultural Festival (Jul), Kuching. This celebration of outside homes and Chinese
Sibu. A week-long celebration Sarawak’s culture comprises street opera is performed.
of music and dance with concerts, exhibitions, theater Ramadan (variable), nationwide.
participants that include local performances, and food fairs, This is the Muslim holy month
ethnic groups, and visiting and lasts for a month. during which Muslims fast in
performers from countries Rainforest World Music Festival daylight hours and eat only after
including China and Indonesia. (Aug), Sarawak Cultural Village, sunset. Street stalls set up
The festival also attracts visitors near Kuching. An annual global outside mosques in the evening
from Thailand, Brunei, and event featuring music work- offer many Muslim delicacies.
nearby countries. Most events shops and performances by Hari Raya Puasa (variable),
are held in Sibu’s town square. nationwide. Also known as
Aidilfitri, this Muslim festival
Malaysia Mega Sale Carnival at Soga department store in Kuala Lumpur marks the end of Ramadan,
with feasts that feature special
food preparations. Families get
together and pay respect to
their elders, and packets of
money are given to children.
Sarawak Regatta (Sep),
Kuching. An annual regatta
of paddleboat, powerboat,
and canoe competitions
on the Sungai Sarawak between
the various indigenous
people of Sarawak.
Malaysia Day (Sep 16),
nationwide. This national

MALAYSIA THROUGH THE YEAR 59

Average Monthly Temperature (Kuala Lumpur) Temperature Chart
The temperature in
°C °F Malaysia does not vary
30 90 much. Hot and humid all
25 80 year round, the temper-
20 70 ature hovers around
15 60 30° C (86° F) during the
10 50 day, with a slight drop in
the evenings. The hill
5 40 stations may get as cool
0 30 as 15° C (59° F).

Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec

holiday celebrates Sarawak and the evening, lanterns are lit Towering Christmas tree at a shopping
Sabah joining the Malaysian and areas with large Chinese center in Kuala Lumpur
Federation on this day in 1963. communities hold a colorful
Expect government offices to lantern parade. Christmas (Dec 25), nationwide.
be shut and shopping malls and Mount Kinabalu Climbathon Largely unmarked in predomin-
restaurants to be packed. (Oct), Sabah. Most people take antly Muslim regions, Christmas
two full days to climb this is a major commercial event in
October to December massive mountain but the the big cities. Midnight Mass is
skilled climbers in this, the celebrated in churches.
Due to heavy rain and rough world’s toughest mountain
seas on the east coast, boat race, take less than three Public Holidays
travel to small islands is tough. hours to complete the climb
Some national parks are also and descend. New Year’s Day (Jan 1)
closed. The two important Deepavali (Oct/Nov), Chinese New Year (Jan/Feb)
religious festivals during this nationwide. The festival of lights Thaipusam (Jan/Feb)
season are the Mooncake commemorates Lord Krishna’s Good Friday (Mar/Apr)
Festival and Deepavali. victory over Narakasura, the Birthday of the Prophet
Although there are only a few triumph of good over evil and Muhammad (variable)
Christians in Malaysia, Christmas light over dark. Hindu homes Labor Day (May 1)
is still a much celebrated event. and temples around the Vesak (May/Jun)
country are decorated with oil King’s Birthday (Jun)
Mooncake Festival (variable), lamps to welcome the goddess Hari Raya Puasa (variable)
nationwide. Also known as the of prosperity. Hindus pray for National Day (Aug 31)
Mid-Autumn Festival, this day is happiness and stability. Malaysia Day (Sep 16)
celebrated by the Chinese who Tamu Besar (Nov), Kota Belud. Deepavali (Oct/Nov)
exchange and consume Held annually at one of Sabah’s Christmas (Dec 25)
mooncakes, made of lotus biggest markets and tourist
and sesame seeds, to mark the attractions, Tamu Besar features
fall of the Mongol dynasty in cultural performances and
China in the 12th century. In handicraft demonstrations. The
highlight, however, is to see
Energetic dances at the KL International Bajau horsemen, dressed in
Buskers Festival colorful traditional costumes.
They ride their bedecked horses
around town (see p188).
KL International Buskers
Festival (Dec), Kuala Lumpur.
For over a week, street
performers from around the
world, including musicians,
dancers, comedians, jugglers,
and acrobats, put on shows to
demonstrate their talents.
Penang Chingay (Dec), Penang.
The Chingay parade is an
attention-grabbing display
which features skilled
performers balancing giant flags
measuring up to 12 m (40 ft).

60 MALAYSIA REGION BY REGION

Malaysia at a Glance The Perhentian Islands (see p148) off the
coast of Terengganu have pristine beaches
Malaysia consists of two geographical regions, and offer excellent swimming and diving
Peninsular Malaysia and Malaysian Borneo, which in the clear waters of the South China Sea.
are divided by the South China Sea. A range of
mountains runs down the center of the peninsula,
dividing the developed plains of the west from
the more rural east coast. Malaysian Borneo,
comprising the states of Sarawak and Sabah, is a
land of rain forests and great rivers. Sandwiched
between these two states is the oil-rich
independent Sultanate of Brunei.

Taman Negara (see
pp144–5), Malaysia’s
largest national park,
contains the peninsula’s
highest peak and an
incredible variety of
birds and wildlife.

Kota Bharu

Cameron Highlands (see Georgetown Kuala Terengganu
pp98–9) is the country’s largest
and most popular hill station, NORTHWEST EASTERN AND
with a consistently pleasant PENINSULA CENTRAL PENINSULA
climate, rolling hills, lush tea
plantations, and a distinctively (See pp92–121) (See pp138–55)
colonial character.
Kuantan
KUALA LUMPUR

(See pp62–91)

Seremban

SOUTHERN South China Sea
PENINSULA

(See pp122–37)

SINGAPORE

(See pp202–73)

The Sultan Abdul Samad Building (see Seremban (see p126), the state capital of Negeri
p68) is one of busy Kuala Lumpur’s most Sembilan, is the center of Minangkabau culture in
magnificent colonial structures. The city’s Malaysia. Striking buildings with roofs shaped like
other attractions include interesting buffalo horns, such as the State Museum, can be
museums, pleasant gardens, and lively seen throughout town.
local markets.

INTRODUCING MALAYSIA 61

Brunei’s Sultan Omar Ali Saifuddien Pulau Sipadan (see pp200–201), off the east
Mosque, an icon for the tiny Sultanate of coast of Sabah, is surrounded by a coral reef and
Brunei (see pp178–9), stands on an island in an is rated among the world’s top diving destinations.
artificial lagoon in the heart of the capital city
of Bandar Seri Begawan. Turtle Island National Park (see
p196) is a prime spot for viewing
the green and hawksbill turtles
that come ashore to nest.

Kota Kinabalu

Tomanggong

Bandar Seri SABAH

Begawan (See pp180–201)
Kunak

Miri BRUNEI

0 km 150
0 miles 150

Bintulu

SARAWAK Mulu National Park (see
pp176–7) has picturesque
(See pp156–79) walking trails in a forested
landscape rich in wildlife.
Saratok

Kuching Engkilili

Kuching (see pp160–63), the
historic capital of Sarawak, is
set on the banks of the
Sungai Sarawak.

Lambir Hills National Park
(see p175) protects the forested

areas around Lambir Hills.
Visited most often for its scenic
waterfalls, the park reflects the

natural heritage of Sarawak, a
state that owes its considerable

global significance to its
many spectacular and
species-rich forests.



MALAYSIA REGION BY REGION 63

KUALA LUMPUR

The capital of Malaysia, Kuala Lumpur, is the nation’s biggest city
with a population of 1.6 million people. A relatively young city, it
has evolved from a humble town in the 1850s to the financial and
commercial capital and principal gateway of the country. A vision of
modernity with its skyscrapers and the best restaurants and nightlife
in the country, Kuala Lumpur also possesses a rich cultural heritage
that is revealed in its colonial architecture, temples, and mosques.

Kuala Lumpur sits in the Klang Valley, enclaves that remain even today. In 1999,
and its name, which means muddy Putrajaya became the new administrative
confluence in Malay, is derived from its capital, but Kuala Lumpur remains the
location at the point where the Klang and country’s financial and commercial center.
Gombak rivers meet. Established here in
1857, the city began as a ramshackle Some of the country’s rich history
trading post for the burgeoning tin can be seen in the 19th-century
industry, and was constantly plagued by architecture of the old colonial district
floods, fires, and civil wars. Chinese miners and in neighboring Chinatown, with its
and traders formed a large part of its early incense-filled temples and chatter-filled
population, governed by a Kapitan China, kedai kopi, or coffee shops. Little India,
or headman. The most famous of them Kampung Baru, and Chow Kit are the best
was Yap Ah Loy (see p71), who was places to find Indian, Malay, and Chinese
responsible for the city’s early growth. cuisines. A closer look reveals that the city
blends the old with the new. Flanked by
A building boom began when the glitzy shops and trendy bars, the Golden
British took control in the 1880s, and in Triangle is the hub of the city’s nightlife,
1896 Kuala Lumpur was made the capital while the Petronas Towers dominate the
of the newly formed Federated Malay business district of KLCC. The Perdana
States. A multiracial population began Botanical Gardens are a perfect escape
to settle here, congregating in ethnic from the urban clutter.

Entrance to Chan See Shu Yuen Temple in Kuala Lumpur
The stunning Petronas Towers and, below them, the upscale KLCC mall

64 MALAYSIA REGION BY REGION

Exploring Kuala Lumpur

Kuala Lumpur’s old colonial core is centered on Merdeka Square,

which is ringed with elegant colonial buildings. To the southwest are

the tranquil Perdana Botanical Gardens. Across the river, to the east, Titiwangsa PAHANG
Chinatown, Little India, Chow Kit, and Kampung Baru boast some of
the best street markets. To the west is the Putra World Trade HAME Pekeliling
RUBus Station

Center (PWTC), one of the city’s convention and exhibition MA JALAN JALAN
centers. Farther northeast is the modern Kuala Lumpur JALAN IPOH
City Center (KLCC) dominated by the Petronas Towers.

The Golden Triangle is the business and entertainment JALAN KUC JALAN CHOW KIT Chow Kit
hub of the capital. Close by is the soaring Menara KL PWTC
at the foot of which is the Bukit Nanas Forest Reserve, JLN. HAJI HUSSEI N
HING LA UT
a patch of rain forest in the center of the city.
JLN. RAJA ALANG

Sights at a Glance Gardens and Themed JALAN RAJA RAHMAN CHOW
Attractions SULTAN KIT
Historic Streets, Buildings, and Sultan ISMAIL
Neighborhoods y Perdana Botanical Gardens Ismail Medan
Tuanku
1 Sultan Abdul Samad Building JALAN
3 Royal Selangor Club g Titiwangsa Lake Gardens TUANKU ABDUL
8 Chinatown
w Kuala Lumpur Railway Station l Aquaria KLCC J LWN A DN A N
u Carcosa Seri Negara b Kompleks Budaya Kraf G I
a Little India n FRIM G Dang
s Jalan Tuanku Abdul Rahman
j Petronas Towers Towns and Cities Wangi
z Malaysian Tourism Information m Shah Alam
, Klang Bandaraya LITTLE
Complex / Putrajaya INDIA
x The Golden Triangle JALAN KUCHING JALAN NG
c Menara KL and Bukit Nanas JALAN AMPA
INDIA
Forest Reserve
v Badan Warisan MASJI D

Museums and Galleries JALAN

4 National Music Museum PAR L I M E N Masjid T JALAN
5 Kuala Lumpur City Gallery Jamek JLHNS LEE
r Islamic Arts Museum see pp74–5 JAL JLN TUN PERA
t National Museum PERDANAA MERDEKA
f National Art Gallery BOTANICALN SQUARE
GARDENS JLN. SULTAN HISHAMUDDIN
Places of Worship K Puduraya
TASIK LEPBUUDHU Bus Station
2 Masjid Jamek PERDANA KASTURI
7 Sze Ya Temple PES IARAN CHENCGHLOINC KA-
0 Sri Maha Mariamman Temple JALA MAHAM E R U JLN TOWN Plaza
q Chan See Shu Yuen Temple JLN. H. Rakyat
e Masjid Negara Bangsar JL N . PE R D ANA JALAN PETALING
i Thean Hou Temple Pasar JLN.
p Masjid India Tasik Perdana Seni

Shopping and Markets Klang Bus

6 Central Market D Kuala LumpurJLN. Station M JA JLN.
9 Jalan Petaling Market N Railway Station KINABALU AH
o Jalan Alor Mahar-
d Chow Kit Market AMAN S A R A Majestic Hotel AL ARN ajalela
h Kampung Baru and
JALA N AJ A L ELA
Pasar Minggu Market
k Suria KLCC and KLCC Park DAMANSARA A
A
Islands Stesen THAN J
Sentral PADA JNAGLAN
. Pulau Ketam L
BELIA
BAN N
SAM SAMAD
YMCA IS TANA N.
ABDUI JL

TRAVERS TUN BUKIT
S E N T R A LJALAN G PETALING
HWAY) JALA N
SULTAN BELLAMY
HI
JALAN JALAN (FEDERAL
JLN. KERAYUNG
UTRA ON
JALA ROBS
P N L SYED PUTRA KIRI
SYE D
JALA N PERKUBURAN
CINA

TAMAN
DESA SEPUTEH

For keys to symbols see back flap

KUALA LUMPUR 65

Lake Beyond Kuala Lumpur Klang Dam
Titiwangsa Gombak
54
TITIWANGSA Buloh

JALA TEMERLOH 5 Kapar Sultan Abdul B9 Damansara 52
N

JALAN TUN Aziz Shah Bangsar Ampang a
RAZAK Ln gat
LORONG RAJA MUDA MBAH KELAN G Petaling
JLN. STONOR Jaya
LE
Subang Jaya Seri Kembangan

Port Klang Klang
5
RAJA ABDULLAH JALAN RAJA MUDA ABDUL AZIZ Kajang

UDA
JLN. RAJA TOLL ROAD)
JALAN RAJA UDA 0 km 10 10 K L International
0 miles Airport
KABMAPRUUNGE
MU DA MU SA (AMPANG SENG
YAP
JLN. Kampung KWAN
BUHR
JLN. RAJ A Baru N G
AY A
BERTING KAT AM P A

JALAN JALAN AMPANG Getting Around

KLCC Ampang Exploring the city on foot is not advisable
Park due to the heat, heavy traffic, air pollution, and
AMPA NG a lack of sidewalks. The best option is to use
L J ALAN
the efficient public transport system. Stesen
KLCC J A L A N T U N R A Z AK Sentral (KL Sentral Station) is the hub of the
PUBLIC

PARK

Lake
Symphony
KUALA LUMPURBukit RAMLEE
CIT(YKCLCECN)TERNanas
J AL PINANG
JALAN
S
AN
JALAN U L TA city’s rail network, which consists of KTM,
THE P J L N. JALAN KIA PENG the national railroad system; Light Rail
GOLDEN Transport (LRT); the monorail; and KLIA
TRIANGLE T E N GA H N Raja
Chulan trains to and from the international airport.
RAJA CHULA N JALAN KTM Komuter trains are useful for out-of-
IS MAIL CONLAY KIA PENG

JALAN

BUKIT town destinations such as Shah Alam,
BINTANGJ A L A N P U D U Klang, and Seremban to the south. KLIA
B U CH ABNIANGLOTKARANTG JALAN BUKIT BINTAN G
KIT IMBI Ekspres (KLIA Express) runs direct to
KLIA airport and to the low-cost terminal
JALAN Bukit at KLIA2. LRT and the monorail cover the
Bintang city with many stops, as do Rapid KL buses,

SUNGAI

WANG PLAZA

Imbi JALAN which offer an unlimited day travel ticket.

HANG Pudu Sentral and Terminal Bersepadu Selatan
JEBAT
Hang AH are the two main bus stations.
Tuah
JALAN
STADIUM HANG 0 km 0.5
TU
0 miles 0.5

WISMA PUTRA
TUAH

HA N G

JALAN Key

Major sight
Highway
Major road
Minor road
Railroad

The beautifully lit Thean Hou Temple at dusk

66 MALAYSIA REGION BY REGION

Street-by-Street: Merdeka Pitcher Plant Fountain
Square Standing in a small garden north
of the square, this unique water
Located in the heart of Kuala Lumpur’s colonial district, feature is styled as a series of
Dataran Merdeka, or Independence Square, is a vast pitcher plants.
rectangular grassy field that once hosted cricket matches and
parades. Surrounded by the mock-Tudor Royal Selangor Club,
the National Music Museum, St. Mary’s Cathedral, and the
Sultan Abdul Samad Building, the square offers a rare glimpse
into the city’s past. The venue for many national events, it was
here that the Union Flag was finally lowered on August 31,
1957, when independent Malaysia was born. Today, the
Malaysian flag flies at the southern end of the square.

JALAN RAJA

PItcher plant
fountain

St. Mary’s Cathedral
Built in the English Gothic style by
A C Norman, this whitewashed cathedral
is home to an exceptional English pipe
organ, installed in 1895.

JALAN
RAJA

0 meters 50
0 yards
50
3 . Royal Selangor Club
Affectionately known as The Spotted Dog and once Key
the focus of colonial life in Kuala Lumpur, this grand
mock-Tudor edifice is the city’s most prestigious Suggested route
private club.

1 . Sultan Abdul
Samad Building

This flamboyant Moorish-
style building dates from
1897. Dominating the eastern
side of Merdeka Square, it
now houses a division of the

Malaysian High Court.

For hotels and restaurants see p278 and pp290–92

KUALA LUMPUR 67

Locator Map
See Street Finder map 4

2 Masjid Jamek
Built in 1909 in stately Mughal style, the Masjid
Jamek, or Friday Mosque, is the oldest surviving
mosque in the capital. It stands at the
confluence of the Klang and Gombak rivers,
where the city’s first arrivals settled in the 1850s.

JLN. 6 Central Market

Once the city’s main fresh produce

MAHKAMAH market, the 1930s Art Deco building

of the Central Market is now

a shopping mall with Indian,

P E Straits Chinese, and Malay ethnic
arts and craft shops.
R S
KUTUAN
E

PASAR Chinatown

B U H S A R
B
L E E

JALAN
RAJA

National Music National Textile
Museum Museum

Kuala Lumpur
Memorial Library

The Flagpole 5 . Kuala Lumpur City Gallery
The 328-ft (100-m) high free-standing flagpole Housed in a heritage building that
is believed to be the tallest in the world. The dates to 1899, this gallery has displays
Malaysian flag is always flying here. on Kuala Lumpur’s past, present,
and future, including a huge model
of the city complete with a sound
and light show.

68 MALAYSIA REGION BY REGION

The Royal Selangor Club, once the focus of colonial life

1 Sultan Abdul elegantly arched windows, of the city. The main prayer
Samad Building cupolas, an imposing porch, hall is open only to Muslims.
and a soaring 133-ft (41-m) Visitors to the mosque must
Jalan Raja. Map 4 E2. ' Masjid clock tower, flanked by two be dressed appropriately with
Jamek. @ B101, B109. smaller towers crowned with arms and legs covered, and
A magnificent Moorish edifice gleaming copper domes. Today, women must cover their heads.
presiding over the eastern flank it houses the commercial divi- Gowns are supplied free of
of Merdeka Square, the Sultan sion of Malaysia’s High Court charge and shoes must be
Abdul Samad Building was and although it is not open to removed before entering.
built in 1897 to serve as the the public (apart from a very
headquarters of colonial small musuem that is of limited 3 Royal Selangor
administration and named in interest to the visitor), the Club
honor of the ruler of Selangor striking façade of the building
at the time. Designed by makes it one of the capital’s Merdeka Square. Map 4 E2. Tel (03)
A C Norman, a British architect most photographed landmarks. 2692-7166. ' Masjid Jamek. @
who also designed the nearby B101, B109. ∑ rscweb.org.my
St. Mary’s Cathedral, the 2 Masjid Jamek
building is made of red brick Established in 1884, the Royal
and white stone and draws Off Jalan Tun Perak. Map 4 E2. ' Selangor Club was at the
upon Mughal, Egyptian, and Masjid Jamek. @ B111. Open center of colonial social life in
traditional Islamic styles. Its 8:30am–12:20pm & 2:30–4pm daily. Kuala Lumpur. Expatriates and
architectural features include Closed 11am–2:30pm Fri. 7 officials gathered here to relax,
play billiards, and watch cricket
Sultan Abdul Samad Building with its grand Standing at the confluence of on the padang, now a part of
clock tower the Klang and Gombak rivers, Merdeka Square (see pp66–7).
the site where Kuala Lumpur The club also hosted traveling
was founded, the beautiful plays and musicals. In 1970,
Masjid Jamek is the city’s oldest the original building was
mosque. Masjid Jamek, which destroyed by a fire, which was
means Friday Mosque, was built soon followed by a flood. The
in 1909 by architect A B Hubbock, present black and white mock-
who was responsible for many Tudor building, an authentic
of the country’s colonial city- reproduction of the old club,
scapes. The red brick and marble was built in 1980. Still referred
building, with three large onion- to as The Spotted Dog, the
shaped domes, two minarets, club remains the preserve of
and arched colonnades, was the city’s elite and is open
inspired by Mughal architecture. only to members. Theories
Surrounded by palm groves, about the origin of its nickname
and with unrivaled views down- include one tracing it to
stream, the mosque forms a a Dalmatian that belonged
tranquil haven in the middle to a former member.

For hotels and restaurants see p278 and pp290–92

KUALA LUMPUR 69

4 National Music
Museum

29 Jalan Raja. Map 4 E2. ' Masjid
Jamek. @ B101, B109. Open 10am–
4pm Tue–Sat.

Originally built in 1891 to house

the city’s first bank, this grand

Mughal-style building at the

southern end of Merdeka

Square was for many years the

home of the National History

Museum, whose collection has

now been merged with that of

the National Museum (see p72).

Since 2015 the building has

housed the country’s main The imposing façade of the National Music Museum

music museum. Traditional

instruments on display include tram that will take you to local reasonable deals. There are a

giant rebana drums, kompangs, sights, and there are also horse number of other outlets that

which are similar to tambourines, and cart rides around the square. sell an eclectic assortment

and the flute-like sape used by of goods ranging from guitars

the Orang Ulu community. to ladies’ wigs.
Upstairs, there is a good
6 Central Market

5 Kuala Lumpur Jalan Hang Kasturi. Map 4 E2. food court with separate
City Gallery Tel 1300-22-8688. ' Pasar counters offering dishes from
Seni. @ B101, B110, B112. various Malaysian states. A
27 Jalan Raja. Map 4 E2. Tel (03) 2698- Open 10am– 10pm daily. 7 0 few restaurants are scattered
3333. ' Masjid Jamek. @ B101, ∑ centralmarket.com.my on both floors. The Central
Market is also a venue for free

B109. Open 9am–6:30pm daily. & Housed in a powder-blue Art cultural performances.

8 = ∑ klcitygallery.com Deco building dating from the

1930s, the Central Market was 7 Sze Ya Temple
Next door to the Music Museum formerly the city’s main fresh-

is another fine old building. produce market. It was rescued Lebuh Pudu. Map 4 F3. Tel (03) 2078-
Formerly the Government from dereliction and reopened 9052. ' Pasar Seni. @ B110, B111.
Printing Office and then the as a modern shopping complex Open 7am–5pm daily.
National Library, now it houses in the 1980s.

an exhibition dedicated to the Also known as the Cultural Located halfway down a narrow

history of Kuala Lumpur. The Bazaar, the building has arts alley off Lebuh Pudu, the small

highlight is a massive model and crafts shops that sell an Sze Ya Temple is built at an

of the city that includes new array of products including awkward angle to the road, a

towers currently under woodcarvings, batik, pottery, position said to have been

construction that will come to paintings, and traditional kites. decided by the principles of

dominate the skyline. Stopping Prices tend to be high and feng shui. The oldest Taoist

outside the gallery is a tourist haggling is necessary to get temple in Kuala Lumpur, it was

founded in 1864 by Yap Ah Loy,

the third Kapitan China (see

p71), who also funded its

construction. Inside the temple,

a statue of Loy is installed left of

the main altar, while images of

the patron deities Si Sze Ya and

Sin Sze Ya occupy the back wall.

The interior is filled with

elaborate carvings and the

smell of burning incense. The

temple entrance is guarded by

statues of fierce lions, a

common feature in Chinese and

Taoist temples, accompanied by

statues of storks. For an extra

charge visitors can have their

Ornate interior of the Sze Ya Temple, one of the oldest in the capital fortunes told inside the temple.

70 MALAYSIA REGION BY REGION

on Jalan Tun HS Lee, a major
thoroughfare, is the city’s
principal Hindu temple,
Sri Maha Mariamman Temple.

9 Jalan Petaling
Market

Jalan Petaling. Map 4 F3. ' Pasar
Seni. @ B110. Open 10am–11pm.

Gateway to Jalan Petaling in Chinatown The scene of the capital’s Colorful gopuram of Sri Maha
most famous and lively street Mariamman Temple
8 Chinatown market, Jalan Petaling is a
covered string of stalls 0 Sri Maha
Map 4 F3. ' Pasar Seni.  specializing in fake designer Mariamman Temple
Maharajalela. @ B102, B110. _ goods. Watches, clothes,
Chinese New Year (Jan/Feb). wallets, handbags, and a 163 Jalan Tun HS Lee. Map 4 F3.
profusion of pirated CDs Tel (03) 2078-3467. ' Pasar Seni.
Kuala Lumpur’s relatively small and DVDs are all sold openly. @ B110. Open 6am–9pm daily.
but vibrant Chinatown is There are few fixed prices, _ Thaipusam (Jan/Feb).
roughly bordered by Jalan and with initial offers often
Hang Kasturi to the west and set unreasonably high, buyers Established in 1873 as the
Jalan Sultan to the east, with are expected to haggle. private shrine of a Tamil family
Masjid Jamek and the Chan See Interspersed with the stalls are from southern India, Sri Maha
Shu Yuen Temple marking its a few shops that sell an assort- Mariamman Temple was rebuilt
northern and southern limits ment of other goods such as on its present site in 1885.
respectively. The area is a maze a variety of dried meats and Today, it is Kuala Lumpur’s main
of narrow streets and alleyways, traditional medicines. At the Hindu temple. The building is
dotted with small Chinese northern end is a traditional said to be laid out in the form of
temples and lined with old wet market, full of interesting a reclining human body, with
shophouses, medicine stores, sights and smells. the head pointing to the west,
and traditional family-run kedai and the feet to the east. The feet
kopi, or coffee shops, where Jalan Petaling is just a normal are represented by a five-tiered
locals gather to socialize. shop-lined street in Chinatown gopuram, or entrance gate,
until around 4 or 5pm every which is decorated with
At the heart of Chinatown day, when the area is closed off intricately carved statues of
is Jalan Petaling, with its to traffic and transformed into a various Hindu deities. During an
bustling covered market and pasar malam, or night market. extensive renovation of the
crowded cafés. Numerous Many of the daytime stalls pack temple in the 1960s, gold and
modern shops and chain stores up and are replaced by food precious stones as well as
add a contemporary touch to stalls that sell a tempting array Spanish and Italian tiles were
this ethnic enclave. Chinatown of Indian, Malay, and Chinese added to the gopuram.
is also home to much of the delicacies. Local souvenirs are
city’s budget accommodation. also available. Both the day and Inside the temple are several
The area, however, is not night markets attract large altars displaying images of
exclusively Chinese. Located crowds and visitors should be Hindu gods. The temple also
careful of their belongings. houses the ornate silver chariot
used in a procession during the
Traditional tea shop at the Jalan Petaling street market fascinating annual Thaipusam
For hotels and restaurants see p278 and pp290–92 festival (see p35). The chariot is
brought out from the temple’s
vault during the celebration,
when up to a million devotees
converge here and make their
way up to the Hindu shrine at
Batu Caves (see p96). Visitors
must remove their shoes before
entering the temple.

KUALA LUMPUR 71

q Chan See Shu
Yuen Temple

172 Jalan Petaling. Map 4 F4.
Tel (03) 2078-1461. ' Pasar Seni.
 Maharajalela. @ B110.
Open 8am–5pm daily.

Built between 1897 and 1906, Detail of friezes carved on the façade of the Chan See Shu Yuen Temple
Chan See Shu Yuen Temple is
said to be one of the finest w Kuala Lumpur replace an attap, or thatched
examples of southern Chinese Railway Station shed, which had served as the
architecture in Malaysia. It feat- railroad terminal since 1886.
ures an elaborate pottery-tiled Jalan Sultan Hishamuddin. Map 4 E4.
roof, undulating gables, and @ B109. 7 - = For 90 years it was the city’s
superbly sculpted green- and main intercity rail terminal, until
blue-glazed ceramic friezes Among the best examples of it was replaced in 2001 by the
depicting mythological scenes colonial architecture in Malaysia, state-of-the-art KL Sentral
on the façade. Decorating the the ornate Kuala Lumpur Railway Station, a few streets south. Now
edges of the temple are blue Station is a majestic, gleaming only KTM Komuter trains pass
ceramic vases. On either side of white building with Moorish through this historic station.
the main entrance are shrines to arches, balustrades, minarets,
the female and male guardians and cupolas. Completed in 1911, Opposite the station is the
of the doorway, with incense it was designed by the British gleaming white Hotel Majestic
burning continually before them. architect A B Hubbock, who is (see p278). Built in the 1930s, it
also known for the striking quickly became the city's most
The temple is essentially a Masjid Jamek (see p68). Beneath glamorous place to stay. The
clan association, representing the Islamic exterior, the building building fell into disrepair until
families bearing the related was constructed according to it reopened in 2012 as a
names of Chan, Chen, or Tan, specifications for railroad stations hotel once more, having been
and is dedicated to the family in England and included an iron meticulously restored. You can
ancestors. Enshrined at the roof capable of withstanding up enjoy afternoon tea in the
central altar of the temple are to 3 ft (1 m) of snow. The splendid Orchid Room or have a
images of the clan founders, concrete structure was built to cocktail in the gentlemen’s
Chan Siow Ling, Chan Xin Xi, clubrooms, the Smoke House.
and Chan Zai Tian, while above
the altar, to the right and left,
are a series of black and white
photographs of deceased
clan members. Framing the
central shrine are gilded
wooden panels painted with
scenes of warriors battling
lions and mythical creatures.
Devotees flock here during
Buddhist festivals.

Kapitan China The magnificent edifice of the Kuala
Lumpur Railway Station
The office of Kapitan China, or headman of the Chinese community
of Kuala Lumpur, was instituted in 1858 by Rajah Abdullah, Chief of

Selangor state, as a way of imposing order on
the fractious Chinese immigrants and their
secret societies. In 1869, Yap Ah Loy, a fierce
and ambitious immigrant from southern
China, became the third Kapitan China. He
soon found himself at the center of a bloody
civil war between different Chinese groups
and local Malays, but a major victory led by
him in Kuala Lumpur in 1873, along with the
arrival of the first British Resident in 1874 (see
p47), put an end to the fighting. He remained
headman until his death in 1885. Also credited
with establishing the city as a major economic
powerhouse, Yap Ah Loy is considered the
Kapitan China Yap Ah Loy founding father of modern Kuala Lumpur.

72 MALAYSIA REGION BY REGION

provide an introduction to

Malaysia’s ethnography and

natural history. Gallery A on

the first floor covers early

history, while Gallery B

describes the Malay Kingdoms

and trade routes. Upstairs,

Gallery C details the country’s

colonial history and showcases

some fascinating photographs

and dioramas. Gallery D

recounts Malaysia’s battle for

independence and other

recent history with exhibits

such as the pen used to sign

The striking 18-pointed roof of Masjid Negara, the national mosque the independence agreement.

e Masjid Negara r Islamic Arts Outside, a collection of vehicles
includes trishaws, cars, and

Jalan Perdana. Map 4 D3. Museum even steam trains. A small
Tel (03) 2693-7784. £ KL Railway KLTA Tourist Information
Station. ' Pasar Seni. @ B109. See pp74–5. Center is located within the
Open 9am–noon, 3–4pm and 5:30– museum grounds.

6:30pm daily (pm only on Fri). t National Museum y Perdana
Botanical Gardens
Built in 1965, Masjid Negara is Jalan Damansara. Map 3 C4. Tel (03)
Malaysia’s national mosque. 2282-6255. £ KL Sentral, then a short Jalan Perdana. Map 3 B3. £ KL
Set in sprawling gardens that walk. ' KL Sentral, then a short walk. Railway Station, then a short walk. '
contain pools and fountains, @ B109. Open 9am–6pm daily. KL Sentral, then a short walk. @ B115.
it is a vast modern building & 7 - = ∑ muziumnegara. Open 7am–8pm daily. 7 8- =
with room for up to 15,000 gov.my KLTA Tourist Information ∑ klbotanical garden.gov.my
worshipers. The main prayer Center: Tel (03) 2287-1830. KL Bird Park: Tel (03) 2272-1010. Open
hall is open only to Muslims. 9am–6pm daily. & Bird feeding and
Opened in 1963, the National shows: check website for times.
The hall is covered with a Museum, or Muzium Negara, is ∑ klbirdpark.com Butterfly Park:
distinctive dome in the shape built on the site of the old
of a stylized 18-point star, Selangor Museum which Tel (03) 2693- 4799. Open
representing the 13 states was destroyed by Allied 9am–6pm daily. & National
of Malaysia and the five pillars

of Islam. Towering over the bombing during World Planetarium: Tel (03) 2273-

mosque is a slender 240-ft (73-m) War II. It is housed in a 4303. Open 9am–6pm Tue–

high minaret. Visiting non- reproduction of a Sun. & ∑ angkasa.gov.my

Muslims are welcome to explore traditional Malay palace Lying on the western

the rest of the complex but must and its façade is adorned edge of the city center are

be appropriately dressed; with murals depicting the Perdana Botanical

headscarves are mandatory for scenes from the Chinese ceramic vase at Gardens, (Taman Tasik

women. Shoes must be removed nation’s history. Inside, the National Museum Perdana in Malay). This

before entering the building. four themed galleries is a beautiful expanse

of greenery laid out in the late

19th century as a tranquil resi-

dential area for the governing

British elite. Today, it is the city’s

biggest and most popular park,

with a large lake at its center

where boats can be hired, and

plenty of walking trails.

Within the gardens are a

number of other attractions,

the highlight of which is the

KL Bird Park. Said to be the

world’s largest walk-in free-

flight aviary, the park houses

around 3,000 tropical birds

including flamingos, hornbills,

and parrots. There is also a

A gallery at the Muzium Negara, or National Museum Butterfly Park which is home

For hotels and restaurants see p278 and pp290–92

KUALA LUMPUR 73

to over 6,000 butterflies of at Grand hallway of Carcosa Seri Negara, a i Thean Hou
least 120 different species. Close luxury hotel Temple
by is the Orchid Garden, which
showcases over 800 species of formerly known as The House 62 Persiaran Indah, off Jalan Syed Putra.
Malay orchids, which are for sale on the Hill, was constructed as a Tel (03) 2274-7088.  from KL Sentral.
during the weekend. On the home for Sir Frank Swettenham, Open 8am–10pm; 6am–midnight
southern edge is the National the first British Resident-General during Chinese New Year. - = _
Planetarium, which stages of the Federation of Malay Chinese New Year (Jan/Feb).
various shows and screens IMAX States (see p47), a function it
movies. The 50-ft (15-m) high continued to serve for sub- Perched on a hill southwest of
bronze National Monument sequent British governors. The the city center, the Thean Hou
which commemorates the second building, Seri Negara, Temple is a striking three-tier
defeat of the Communist insur- earlier known as the King’s Chinese temple. Built in the
gency dominates the northern House, was the official home 1980s, this is one of the biggest
end of the park. It was created of the Governor of the Straits Chinese temples in Malaysia. It
in 1966 by Felix de Weldon, who Settlements. After indepen- is dedicated to Thean Hou, or
was best known for the Iwo dence and until 1987, Carcosa heavenly mother, the patron
Jima monument in Washington, was the official residence of deity of sailors and fishermen.
DC. Among the fine colonial the British High Commissioner An image of the goddess, also
mansions built here is Carcosa while Seri Negara functioned as known as Ma Zu, is enshrined in
Seri Negara, which presides a state guesthouse for visiting the main hall, flanked by statues
over the western boundary of foreign dignitaries. Today, the of Sui Wei, goddess of the
the gardens. Smaller museums two buildings together form waterfront, and Kuan Yin,
around the park are dedicated one of Kuala Lumpur’s finest goddess of mercy. Statues of
to the police, civil service, boutique hotels, and contain the Laughing Buddha and other
banking, and former political two award-winning restaurants Buddhist and Taoist images are
leaders. There is a popular food including the elegant, colonial also kept here.
court on Jalan Cenderasari. Drawing Room.
The temple has a series of
u Carcosa Seri traditional Chinese-style roofs
Negara decorated with golden dragons,
phoenix, and a canopy of red
Lake Gardens. Map 3 B3. Tel (03) paper lanterns. Built on four
2295-0888. £ KL Railway Station, levels, it has food outlets and
then taxi. ' KL Sentral, then taxi. 7 shops on the ground level,
0 - ∑ shr.my while the main shrine is on the
third floor. The temple also
This exquisite pair of colonial serves as a community center,
mansions set in their own and a hall on the second level
grounds on the edge of the forms the venue for social
Perdana Botanical Gardens were gatherings such as weddings.
built between 1896 and 1904. Outside the building stand
The first building, Carcosa, twelve statues, which represent
the twelve animals of the
Chinese zodiac.

The extravagant Thean Hou Temple, with a series of tiled, Chinese-style roofs

74 MALAYSIA REGION BY REGION

r Islamic Arts Museum

Situated on the eastern edge of the Perdana Botanical
Gardens (see p72), the Islamic Arts Museum houses fascinating
exhibits from the Muslim world. Opened in 1998, the museum
has the largest collection of its kind in Southeast Asia with
over 7,000 artifacts. The building itself is an impressive
modern construction topped by turquoise domes, with
Iranian tilework on columns at the entrance. Inside, five
elegant domes created by Uzbek craftsmen decorate the
ceilings. The emphasis of the exhibits here is on Asian arts
in addition to those from Persia and the Middle East.

The magnificent dome at the Inverted
Dome Pavilion

The state-of-the-art auditorium
seats up to 250 people and is used
for seminars and lectures.

The Inverted Dome Pavilion is an
airy exhibition hall with its unique
dome executed in white and gold,
bearing extracts from the Koran.

The Architecture Gallery Ground Fountain
The main focus of this gallery is the floor garden
collection of scale models of mosques,
including the Dome of the Rock, Taj
Mahal, and the Al-Haram Mosque.

Lower ground
floor

Preview
room

Woodwork Gallery Main entrance
Located on Level 2, Briefing hall
the gallery exhibits
elaborately crafted Children’s library
wooden artifacts often
embellished with ivory
and mother-of-pearl.

Gallery Guide The Education Department
conducts workshops on art and
activities for children.

The permanent displays begin on Level 1 with the Architecture Gallery,
which has detailed scale models of mosques. Nearby is the Manuscript
Gallery, a reconstructed Ottoman Room, and galleries dedicated to China,
India, and Malaysia. Level 2 has the Jewelry, Arms and Armor, Coin and
Seal, Metalwork, Woodwork, Ceramics, and Textile galleries. On the ground
and lower ground floors are two galleries for temporary exhibitions. The
non-exhibition area has facilities for research and education.

For hotels and restaurants see p278 and pp290–92

KUALA LUMPUR 75

Qur’an and VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Manuscript Gallery
This gallery features Practical Information
handwritten Korans, Jalan Lembah Perdana.
Sultans’ decrees, Map 4 D3. Tel (03) 2274-2020.
miniature paintings, Open 10am–6pm daily. & 8
and scholarly works 0 - = ∑ iamm.org.my
on botany and
astronomy. Transport
£ Kuala Lumpur Railway Station.

The Coin and Seal Gallery displays . Turkish Iznik Tiles
Islamic coins and seals, noted for These glazed tiles with
their intricate calligraphy. stylized trees, fruits, and
foliage in vibrant hues
Library were first produced in the
Turkish city of Iznik from
the 15th to 17th centuries.

Level 2

Level 1

The Architecture Main dome and
Gallery viewing terrace

The China Gallery . Jewelry Gallery
displays Chinese Ornaments from the
manuscripts, a Koran, and Arab world are housed
blue and white porcelain here, including Iranian
with Arabic script. gold anklets and a
19th-century gold
. Standard Chartered and ruby necklace
Ottoman Room from Mughal India.
This room once
Key
belonged to a lavish Jewelry Gallery
house built in Syria Arms and Armor Gallery
Textile Gallery
in 1820 and has now Woodwork Gallery
been restored to its Coin and Seal Gallery
original appearance. Metalwork Gallery
It is spectacularly Ceramics and Glassware Gallery
Architecture Gallery
decorated with painted Qur’an and Manuscript Gallery
wood paneling. India Gallery
China Gallery
Malay World Gallery
Temporary exhibitions
Non-exhibition space

76 MALAYSIA REGION BY REGION

o Jalan Alor Vibrant silk cloth and garments on sale at s Jalan Tuanku
a Little India stall Abdul Rahman
Jalan Alor. Map 5 C2. ' Bukit
Bintang. 7 flowers, and spices. There are Map 1 B3. ' Bandaraya. @ B101,
also a number of hawker stalls B109. Coliseum Cinema: 96 Jalan
The night market at Jalan Alor, that sell a variety of delicious Tuanku Abdul Rahman.
near the neon-lit nightlife of and traditional Indian snacks Tel (03) 2692-5995.
Bukit Bintang, is now a popular such as pakoras and samosas.
spot with foodies. Hungry Named for the first king of
diners perch on rickety stools At the end of Jalan Masjid independent Malaysia, and
at stalls selling such delights as India is Lorong Bunus, which commonly known as Jalan TAR,
char siew (barbecued pork) and marks the northern limit of Jalan Tuanku Abdul Rahman is
steaming plates of chili-fried Little India. It leads to Lorong one of the busiest roads in Kuala
squid. Stalls to look out for Tuanku Abdul Rahman, a Lumpur and is constantly
include Jalan Alor Nasi Lemak, narrow lane that is the venue choked with traffic. Stretching
at the road’s junction with of another of the capital’s pop- north from Merdeka Square to
Changkat Bukit Bintang, where ular pasar malams, or night Little India, it is one of the city’s
beef rendang is a specialty, and markets, on Saturdays. An most popular traditional
the Wong Ah Wah chicken stall assortment of Indian goods shopping destinations, parti-
at the end of the road. are sold here, including house- cularly known for silk shops
hold items and brassware, and such as the Globe Silk Store
p Masjid India it is also one of the best places (see p306) as well as the small,
in the city to sample authentic bazaar-style carpet shops clus-
Jalan Masjid India. Map 4 F1. ' Indian street food. During the tered around its southern end.
Masjid Jamek. @ B109. 7 day, artisans, including garland The Japanese department store
makers, can be seen at work Sogo is also on this road.
Originally built as a modest all along the street.
wooden structure in 1863, Despite a lot of modern
Masjid India has been rebuilt development, Jalan TAR has
and upgraded over the years. retained much of its historic
The present building was com- architecture, revealed in many
pleted in 1966, and designed in of the striking 19th- and early
southern Indian style, with 20th-century façades that still
onion-domed cupolas and exist above the gaudy shop
elegant arched windows. The signs. Among the most
three-story mosque is the main interesting and significant of
place of worship for Kuala these structures is the Coliseum
Lumpur’s Indian Muslims. It can Cinema. Barring a few years
accommodate up to 3,500 during World War II, the cinema
devotees, with separate floors has been in business since
for men and women. 1921, making it Kuala Lumpur’s
oldest running movie hall.
a Little India These days, it screens Hindi and
southern Indian Tamil films.
Jalan Masjid India and environs. Visitors are free to explore the
Map 1 B5. ' Masjid Jamek, building. Next door to the
Bandaraya. @ B101 to Jalan Tuanku
Abdul Rahman. _ Deepavali (Oct).

Although tiny in comparison Façade of the Coliseum Cinema, which dates back to the colonial era
with the Indian enclaves of
Singapore or even Georgetown
in Penang, Kuala Lumpur’s
Little India is equally lively and
colorful, steeped in the history
and culture of the capital’s
Indian community.

Jalan Masjid India is the main
street of this ethnic quarter,
which takes its name from
Masjid India. Rows of shops
and stalls line the street, and
are crammed with Indian
merchandise such as saris, silk
cloth and other fabric, jewelry,

For hotels and restaurants see p278 and pp290–92

KUALA LUMPUR 77

cinema, and built around the
same time, the Coliseum Café
was once the favorite haunt of
colonial planters and tin miners.
It also counts English author
Somerset Maugham among its
early patrons.

The Coliseum Café still offers
western meals, including its
famous sizzling steak, and an
authentic early 20th-century
atmosphere that has changed
little over the years.

d Chow Kit Market

Jalan Haji Hussein. Map 1 B3. Roadside vendor at Chow Kit Market, one of the city’s largest day markets
 Chow Kit. @ B111.
Open 10am–2am daily. should be vigilant of pick- 4,300 works. The permanent
pockets, especially after dark. exhibition on the first floor
Strung out along the narrow features a selection of works
lanes and alleys just to the f National Art across different genres and
east of Jalan Tuanku Abdul Gallery periods. Highlights include
Rahman, Chow Kit Market is one Tan Wei Kheng’s Penan Hunter
of the city’s biggest and most Jalan Temerloh. Map 2 D1. (2008); Fadilah Karim’s Beautiful
popular street markets. It is Tel (03) 4026-7000. ' Titiwangsa or Tangle (2013); Shia Yih Yiing’s
divided into various sections KLCC, then taxi. @ B104. Open Homage Couture (2013); and
and is especially known for its 10am–6pm daily. 8 11am & 2:30pm Haslin Ismail’s Book Land (2013),
fresh produce, which includes Tue–Sun, 10:30am & 3pm Fri. 7 ^ an installation that portrays the
everything from exotic fruits = ∑ artgallery.gov.my power of imagination derived
and vegetables to live seafood, National Theater: Tel (03) 4026-5000. from reading. The temporary
dried anchovies, and meat. Stall Open box office: 10am–6pm Mon–Fri. shows of modern Asian art
owners shout out their wares to 7 ∑ istanabudaya.gov.my include photography, sculpture,
vie for attention while porters and installation art.
busily ferry trays and carts laden Home to the city’s finest
with goods between the stalls. permanent collection of Next door, the striking
Although the smells can be contemporary Malaysian art, National Theater, designed
overpowering and the narrow the National Art Gallery also in the shape of a Malay kite,
wooden walkways wet and hosts temporary exhibitions hosts interesting cultural
slippery due to the extensive of Asian and international art. shows as well as national and
use of water to keep the Since its establishment in 1958, international theater, and also
produce fresh, the market offers it has acquired more than features a traditional Malay
an interesting glimpse of every- theater costume gallery.
day life in Kuala Lumpur that
few tourists see. Numerous Contemporary art exhibits at the National Art Gallery
other stalls sell household
goods, shoes, and watches.

Most of Chow Kit Market,
especially the fresh produce
sections, closes before 6pm,
which is when the night market
takes over. A profusion of
hawker stalls set up shop,
offering a variety of Malay
snacks, as well as inexpensive
but substantial meals, cooked
in the traditional way. Indian
and Chinese food, authentically
prepared, is also on offer. Some
of these stalls also operate
during the day. The market is
always bustling, and often lasts
into the early hours. As with
other crowded areas, visitors

78 MALAYSIA REGION BY REGION

g Titiwangsa Lake
Gardens

Jalan Temerloh. ' Titiwangsa. 
Titiwangsa. @ B120. 7 0 -

Located on the northern
fringes of the city, these
peaceful, manicured gardens
are a great escape from the
urban bustle and a popular
recreational space. Laid out
around a vast man-made
lake, the lush gardens are a
visual treat and offer a great
view of the Petronas Towers.
They are also a perfect place
to relax, go jogging, or even
go boating. There is a herb
garden, a lotus pond, and a
playground for children.
Exercise enthusiasts can
also hire bikes to explore
the gardens.

h Kampung Baru Petronas Towers, the tallest twin structures in the world
and Pasar Minggu
Market marking its western boundary. j Petronas Towers

Jalan Raja Muda Musa. Map 2 D4. While the old-fashioned Jalan Ampang. Map 2E4.
' Kampung Baru. @ B102 & B103 kampung-style houses and the Tel (03) 2331-8080. ' KLCC.
to Jalan Raja Muda Abdul Aziz. 1920s Masjid Jamek on Jalan @ B103, B109. Open Skybridge:
Established in 1899, the village Raja Abdullah are worth a visit, 9am–9pm Tue–Sun. Closed Mon,
of Kampung Baru is the oldest the real highlight of Kampung 1–2:30pm Fri. & 7 =
Malay residential area in Kuala Baru is the glimpse it offers of ∑ petronastwintowers.com.my
Lumpur. Its traditional wooden
houses, some on stilts, are still an older, more leisurely way of
found throughout this small
settlement which lies to the life that seems to be rapidly Soaring to a height of 1,483 ft
north of the Sungai Klang,
roughly between Jalan Raja disappearing under the (452 m), the 88-story Petronas
Muda Musa and Jalan Raja
Muda Abdul Aziz, with Jalan increasingly fast pace of Towers are an internationally
Raja Abdullah and the
incredibly busy Chow Kit area modern Kuala Lumpur. Village recognized symbol of modern

Street food being prepared at Pasar Minggu elders have repeatedly Malaysia. Designed by the

turned down huge famous Argentinian

amounts of money to architect Cesar Pelli, who

develop the land, said also designed the Canary

to be the most valuable Wharf Tower in London,

in the city. Starfruit at Pasar the Petronas Towers were

The area comes alive Minggu completed in 1998. Built

on Saturday nights for with heat-reflecting stain-

the locally popular Pasar less steel and laminated glass,

Minggu, or Sunday Market. and crowned by steel pinnacles,

Stalls are set up along Jalan the towers resemble a pair of

Raja Muda Musa and Jalan Raja minarets. The eight-sided star

Alang at about 6pm on of the floorplan and the overall

Saturday evening, and stay architecture reflect Islamic

open until 1am, or the early principles of unity and harmony.

hours of Sunday morning. One of the towers houses the

Plenty of food and fresh national petroleum and oil

produce is available, as well as company, Petronas. The skybridge,

numerous hawker stalls tempt- linking the towers at the 41st

ing shoppers with delicious, floor, offers a bird’s-eye view of

traditional Malay street food. A the city. Tickets can be bought

few basic cafés offer visitors ahead of time online through

more substantial meal options. the website.

For hotels and restaurants see p278 and pp290–92

KUALA LUMPUR 79

k Suria KLCC and The glitzy interior of the Suria KLCC l Aquaria KLCC
KLCC Park shopping mall
Jalan Pinang. Map 2 F5. Tel (03) 2333-
Jalan Ampang. Map 2 F5. and learn about prehistory in 1888. ' KLCC. @ B105, B106.
Tel (03) 2382-3326. ' KLCC. the geotime diorama. High- Open 10:30am–8pm daily. & 7 =
@ B103, B105. Open 10am–10pm lights include a replica of ∑ aquariaklcc.com
daily. 7 free hire inside Suria KLCC. NASA’s Mars space rover and
0 - = ∑ suriaklcc.com.my a singing dinosaur. Occupying two levels within the
KLCC Park: Open 7am–10pm. Kuala Lumpur Convention Center,
Galeri Petronas: Tel (03) 2051-7770. The lush KLCC Park that a short walk from the Petronas
Open Tue–Sun. 7 = sprawls in front of the complex Towers, Aquaria KLCC is a visual
∑ galeripetronas.com.my offers a welcome respite from treat. This enormous state-of-
Petrosains: Tel (03) 2331-8181. city traffic. The gardens are the-art aquarium is home to
Open 9:30am–5:30pm Tue–Fri, laid out with benches and over 5,000 creatures, both
9:30am–6:30pm Sat & Sun. & = shelters, a paddling pool, and a aquatic and terrestrial, including
∑ petrosains.com.my children’s playground. Planted around 150 different species of
with over 1,900 native trees, fish from across the world.
Spread out over six floors many bearing explanation
below the Petronas Towers, plaques, and centered on an Conceptualized around the
Suria KLCC is one of the city’s artificial lake with fountains route that water takes from the
busiest shopping malls, with (which put on nightly mountains to the sea, the
numerous chain stores, synchronized shows at 8pm), aquarium recreates various
restaurants, coffee bars, and a the gardens are a cool and ecosystems. The journey begins
cinema, as well as banks, ATMs, pleasant place to wander in the highlands and is
and a post office. A range of around in the evenings. followed by a flooded forest
giant international department display where giant catfish can
stores have branches here, be seen lurking among tree
including Isetan and Parkson, roots. Other ecosystems
along with specialist retailers include mangroves, coral reefs,
and fast-food outlets. and the spectacular open
ocean. A highlight is the 295-ft-
On the third floor is the (90-m-) long moving walkway
Galeri Petronas, which hosts underwater tunnel, which
rotating exhibitions of tradi- offers views of a simulated
tional and contemporary art, natural habitat and a shipwreck
both from Asia and farther colonized by reef inhabitants,
afield. Petrosains, on the as well as close-up sightings of
fourth floor, is an excellent stingrays, eels, and rare sand
interactive science discovery tiger sharks.
center. Young visitors can learn
about petroleum science and Feeding times are spread
technology through a range throughout the day, and a
of hands-on exhibits, and can touch pool lets children handle
also visit a mock oil rig, try a aquatic creatures. Visitors who
helicopter flight simulator, have a diving qualification can
even dive with sharks.

Visitors observing a school of fish through the glass of a giant tank at the Aquaria KLCC

80 MALAYSIA REGION BY REGION

malls, including Lot 10 and
Pavilion Kuala Lumpur. Adding
local flavor are pavement
reflexologists and Middle-
Eastern cafés where locals puff
hookahs, or tobacco pipes.
Changkat Bukit Bintang is
another street offering chic bars
and restaurants. One of the
country’s biggest shopping
malls, Berjaya Times Square,
dominates Jalan Imbi while
most of the top-end hotels lie
on Jalan Sultan Ismail.

Malaysian Tourism Information Complex, housed in a colonial mansion c Menara KL and
Bukit Nanas Forest
z Malaysian x The Golden Reserve
Tourism Information Triangle
Complex 2 Jalan Punchak, off Jalan P Ramlee.
Map 1 C5.  Bukit Bintang, Imbi. Map 5 A1. Tel (03) 2020-5444. 
109 Jalan Ampang. Map 2 E5. @ B107, B108. Bukit Nanas. Open 9am–10pm daily.
Tel (03) 9235-4848. ' KLCC. Spread over a large, roughly & 0 - = ∑ menarakl.com.my
 Bukit Nanas. @ B106. triangular area with its apex at Bukit Nanas Forest Reserve:
Open 8am–10pm daily. Jalan Ampang in the north and Open 7am–6pm daily. 8 arranged
7 0 = ∑ matic.gov.my its base formed by Jalan Imbi in by Menara KL. 7
the south, the Golden Triangle is
The largest tourist center in Kuala Lumpur’s main business, Built as a communications
Kuala Lumpur, the Malaysian shopping, and nightlife district. tower between 1991 and 1996,
Tourism Information Complex Among the sea of glitzy high- Menara KL, or KL tower, is
is housed in an impressive rise buildings are most of the among the five tallest tele-
colonial mansion. Built on the city’s prominent shopping malls, communications towers in the
site of an old rambutan orchard along with countless bars, world. It stands at a height of
in 1935, it was formerly the restaurants, cafés, and premier 1,380 ft (421 m). Its lobby has
home of Eu Tong Seng, a hotels, including the Mandarin several shops and a lift that
wealthy Chinese tin and rubber Oriental (see p278), which is whisks visitors up to the obser-
businessman. Not long after its located opposite the Petronas vation deck for a panoramic
construction, World War II broke Towers. At the heart of the view of the city. At a dizzying
out and the house was taken Golden Triangle is Jalan Bukit height of 905 ft (276 m), it is
over by the British military and Bintang with its trendy bars, more than 328-ft (100-m) higher
used as their war office. It was eateries, and the biggest than the skybridge at the
subsequently captured by the concentration of shopping Petronas Towers. As well as a
Japanese army, who converted revolving restaurant, there is
it into their headquarters in Mandarin Oriental, a luxury hotel in the also an aquarium and a floor full
Malaysia for the remainder the Golden Triangle of games simulators to explore.
war. After independence, the Each year, the tower hosts an
building housed several official BASE jump event, which
government agencies and also attracts around 100 participants.
witnessed the coronation
ceremonies of four successive At the base of the tower is
Malaysian kings. Malaysia’s oldest nature reserve,
the Bukit Nanas Forest
Today, the main building in Reserve, gazetted in 1906.
the complex houses the This legal status saved the
Malaysia tourist information 27-acre (11-ha) slice of rain
office, while annexes contain a forest from destruction when
tourist police office, restaurant, the tower was built, and even
and a concert hall where regular resulted in a reworking of the
cultural shows are performed architectural plans to avoid the
(see p309). Traditional games, cutting down of a 100-year-old
such as top-spinning, are jelutong tree. The reserve is
also hosted here on weekends quite rundown but worth a visit
and there is a daily dance to see a rich variety of wildlife,
performance at 3pm. including monkeys and

For hotels and restaurants see p278 and pp290–92

KUALA LUMPUR 81

Panorama of Kuala Lumpur from the Menara KL tower observation desk

squirrels, as well as numerous b Kompleks of artisans creating their wares
tropical trees. Be sure to bring
mosquito repellent. Budaya Kraf with displays of the various
tools they would have used.
v Badan Warisan 63 Jalan Conlay. Map 6 E1. Tel (03)
2162-7459. ' KLCC.  Raja Chulan. In the exhibition areas and
2 Jalan Stonor. Map 6 E1. @ R108. Open daily. & 7 - = workshops, craftspeople
Tel (03) 2144-9273.  Raja Chulan. ∑ kraftangan.gov.my demonstrate ethnic art and
@ R108. Open 10am–5:30pm craft skills, such as weaving,
Mon–Sat. Closed Sun. & 8 11am &
3pm Mon–Sat. 7 limited. = Located on the eastern edge of batik-printing, and silver and
∑ badanwarisan.org.my
the Golden Triangle, Komplex copperwork. Visitors are
Founded in 1983 for the
conservation of Malaysia’s Budaya Kraf is a handicrafts welcome to try their hand
architectural heritage, Badan
Warisan is a non-government complex that showcases a and can also receive lessons
organization that runs regular
campaigns and projects to save wide range of traditional in a particular craft. The
historical buildings from neglect
and destruction. In 1995, it arts and crafts from complex is one of the
renovated a colonial bungalow
on Jalan Stonor and turned it the various states of best places in Kuala
into a heritage center, with
exhibition facilities for art and Peninsular Malaysia Lumpur to buy these
craft shows as well as a resource
center with books, drawings, and Malaysian Borneo. local handicrafts, with
slides, and photographs for
those keen to learn more about It is made up of four Earthenware at a number of shops
the organization’s conservation
work. The highlight is Rumuh separate buildings that Budaya Kraf and stalls selling pewter,
Penghulu Abu Seman, a
traditional Malay wooden house shops and stalls, a silverwork, pottery,
house dating from the 1920s. It
was brought to this site in a museum, exhibition areas, woodcarvings, hand-woven
state of serious disrepair from a
village in Kedah. Since then, it and several workshops. The textiles, batik, and beadwork,
has been expertly restored and
now serves as a showpiece for museum traces the history alongside more unusual
modern conservation methods.
and development of age-old items such as rattan fishtraps,

crafts and features dioramas birdcages, and tribal blowpipes.

An array of traditional handicrafts on sale at the Kompleks Budaya Kraf

82 MALAYSIA REGION BY REGION

Sultan Salahuddin Abdul Aziz Shah Mosque in Shah Alam mosques in Southeast Asia
and the largest in Malaysia.
n FRIM m Shah Alam
Nearby is the Museum
Kepong, 10 miles (16 km) NW of Kuala 11 miles (18 km) W of Kuala Lumpur. Sultan Azlan Shah with
extensive displays covering
Lumpur. Tel (03) 6279-7575. £ to * 319,600. £ @ n Jalan Indah the history of Selangor from
prehistoric times to the present
Kepong, then taxi. Open park: 14, (03) 5513-2000. _ Bon Odori day. It also contains galleries
dedicated to the state’s wildlife
5am–7:30pm; canopy: 9:30am– Festival (Jul). ∑ tourismselangor. as well as its sporting achieve-
ments. To the west of the
2:30pm except Mon & Fri; museum: gov.my Museum Sultan Azlan Shah: museum is the attractively
landscaped Lake Gardens,
8am–4:30pm. & for vehicles; canopy Persian Bandaraya. Tel (03) 5519-0050. home to the Galeri Shah
Alam, a modern art gallery
tours. 8 7 limited. - =  Open 9:30am–5:30pm Tue–Sun. located in a traditional Malay
wooden building which
∑ frim.gov.my Closed Mon, noon–2:45pm Fri. 7 hosts temporary exhibitions
of modern art over three
Galeri Shah Alam: Persiaran Tasik. separate galleries. On the
opposite side of the lake is
Occupying 2 sq miles (5 sq km) Tel (03) 5510-5344. Open 8:30am– Wet World Water Park, a water
theme park with pools, slides,
of parkland within the Bukit 5:30pm daily. Closed 12:15–2:45pm and rides.
Lagong Forest Reserve, the Fri. Wet World Water Park: Tel (03)
Forest Research Institute of 5513-2020. Open 10am–6pm , Klang
Malaysia (FRIM) was founded Thu–Tue. & - ∑ owg.com.my
18 miles (30 km) SW of Kuala Lumpur.
in 1929 as a research and Designated the state capital of * 563,200. £ @ ∑ mpklang.
gov.my Gedung Raja Abdullah: Jalan
development center for tropical Selangor in 1978, Shah Alam Raja Abdullah. Tel (03) 5519-0050.
Closed for renovation.
forests, with a special emphasis is a well-planned modern city
The former royal capital of
on sustainable forest sprawled over a large area. It is Selangor, the city of Klang,
flourished during the 19th-
management. An on-site essentially an industrial and century boom in the tin
industry. However, in 1867,
museum explains the center’s administrative center, and is civil war erupted owing to the
rivalry between the two local
work. There are several rarely visited by tourists. Still, chieftains, Rajah Mahadi and
Rajah Abdullah. The fighting
arboreta of native trees, the area’s few sights of was ended in 1874 when the
British authorities intervened
including the most interest, most of which and installed the first Resident in
the town. The discovery of new
comprehensive collec- are within walking dis- tin deposits in Kuala Lumpur in
1880 further diminished the
tion of dipterocarp tance of each other,
Inscribed mausoleum at Masjid Di Raja
(hardwood) species in make it a pleasant day Sultan Suleiman in Klang

the world. Also in the trip. Located in a park at

grounds is a traditional FRIM logo the center of town is the

Malay house from Tereng- city’s main attraction, the

ganu (see p147). Among the Sultan Salahuddin Abdul Aziz

highlights of a visit to FRIM is Shah Mosque, more popularly

the 656-ft- (200-m-) long canopy known as the Blue Mosque

walkway suspended 98 ft (30 m) owing to its large blue and

above ground, which offers a silver aluminum dome. Its four

fascinating close-up view of the 466-ft (142-m-) high minarets

treetops. There are also a num- are said to be the tallest in the

ber of easy walking trails, a world. The mosque can

more strenuous mountain bike accommodate up to 24,000

trail, camping, bird-watching, worshipers and is reputed

and picnic areas. to be one of the largest

For hotels and restaurants see p278 and pp290–92

KUALA LUMPUR 83

importance of Klang. Today, the / Putrajaya
city is a commercial center, with
most sights of interest located 15 miles (25 km) SW of Kuala Lumpur.
in the old town, south of the * 45,000. £ KLIA Transit from
Sungai Klang. KL Sentral. @ n Precinct 1,
(03) 8888-7272. ∑ ppj.gov.my
Built in 1857, Gedung Raja Botanic Garden: Precinct 1. Open
Abdullah was the former res- 7am–7pm daily. & 7 0 - =
idence of Rajah Abdullah. Due Putrajaya Wetlands: Precinct 13. Tel (03)
to reopen following renovations 8925-3817. Open 10am–6pm Tue–Fri,
(phone ahead to check), it 7am–7pm Sat & Sun. & - =
houses the Tin Museum, which
traces the history of the local Founded in 1995, Putrajaya is A close view of the pink granite edifice of the
mining industry through the new federal administrative Putra Mosque
archived photographs and capital of Malaysia. Lying at
other artifacts. Nearby are the the heart of the Multimedia Justice, topped with a gigantic
remains of Rajah Mahadi’s fort. Super Corridor (MSC), an area dome. The Putra Mosque with
Also located in the old quarter designated to attract information its 380-ft- (116-m-) high minaret
is the attractive Masjid Di Raja technology companies, and with looms over one edge of the lake
Sultan Suleiman, the former huge swathes of green spaces, it and is one of the city’s most
state mosque, behind which is is a planned “intelligent”garden impressive buildings, blending
Istana Alam Shah, the royal city. Putrajaya is built on cleared architectural styles from Iraq,
palace of the Sultan of Selangor. forest land and centered around Iran, and Morocco. Other sights
Although closed to the public, a huge artificial lake. The city is worth exploring include the
visitors can view the pleasing designed to create a sense of Botanic Garden with its col-
façade of the palace, a blend of vastness and with so much water lection of tropical flora, and the
Islamic and modern architecture. around, great attention has been Putrajaya Wetlands, which
Port Klang, or North Port, lies paid to building massive bridges. were constructed to help
5 miles (8 km) to the west, close These include the Putra Bridge, cleanse river water. Paddleboats
to South Port, Malaysia’s main inspired by the Khaju Bridge in can be hired for trips on the
seaport, and is the access point Iran, and the 787-ft- (240-m-) wetlands and lake.
for Pulau Ketam. long Seri Gemilang Bridge.
Lying on the outskirts of
. Pulau Ketam Government departments Putrajaya is its twin town,
and ministries began the move Cyberjaya. Conceived as a
34 miles (55 km) SW of Kuala Lumpur. here from Kuala Lumpur in center for high-tech companies,
* 8,000. g from Port Klang. 1999. These include the Prime more than 50,000 people work
∑ pulauketam.com Minister’s office, known as there every weekday.
Perdana Putra, built in a flam-
First inhabited by Hainanese boyant Malay-Palladian style,
fishermen in the 1870s, Pulau and the equally grand Palace of
Ketam, or Crab Island, remains
largely populated by Chinese. Palace of Justice, Putrajaya, with its distinctive Islamic-style architecture
The majority of the inhabitants
still make their living by fishing.
Although Pulau Ketam village
is a simple settlement of stilt
houses built over the water
with narrow wooden walkways
in place of roads, it contains
a number of basic amenities
including a bank and hospital.
It is well known for its superb
seafood restaurants, specializing
in crab dishes, which make it a
popular weekend dining venue
for city residents. There are also
ornate Chinese temples, such
as the Nang Thiam Keng
Temple, where locals host
wedding feasts. The many
floating fish farms offshore
are worth visiting and can be
reached by a short boat ride
from the island jetty.

84 MALAYSIA REGION BY REGION

KUALA LUMPUR STREET FINDER

The key map below shows the area of the maps can be found on the facing page.
Kuala Lumpur covered in this Street Finder. The first figure in the map reference indicates
Map references given for sights, shops, which Street Finder map to turn to, and the
and entertainment venues in the Kuala letters and numbers that follow refer to
Lumpur section refer to the maps on the the map’s grid. The symbols used to represent
following pages. Map references are also sights and useful information on the Street
provided for some of Kuala Lumpur’s hotels Finder maps are listed in the key below.
and restaurants. An index of the street Common street designations have been
names and places of interest shown on abbreviated – Jalan to Jln. and Lorong to Lrg.

0 km 1 JALAN T UANKU ABDUL RAHMANJALAN RAJA MUDA ABDUL AZIZ
0 miles 1 LE BUHRAYA BERTINGKAT AMPANG
JAL A
P ARL I M E N N SULTA N ISMAIL
JALAN PUDU
JALA N

JALAN DAMANSARA

Key to Street Finder Visitor information Scale of Map Pages
Hindu temple
Major sight Church 0 meters 300
Place of interest Chinese temple
Other buildings Mosque
LRT station Railroad
Railroad station Expressway
Bus station
Monorail 0 yards 300
Hospital
Police station

KUALA LUMPUR STREET FINDER 85

Street Finder Index

A Galloway, Jalan 5 B3 Masjid India, Jalan 4 F1 Ria, Jalan 4 D4
Gelugor, Jalan 5 C5 Masjid Jamek
Abdul Rahman Idris, Jalan 1 C2 Gereja, Jalan 4 F1 Masjid Negara 4 E2 Robertson, Jalan 5 B3
Golden Triangle, The 1 C5 Mayang, Lorong
Ahmad, Jalan 2 D2 Grenier, Lorong 6 D3 Melaka, Jalan 4 D3 Royal Selangor Club 4 E2
Gurney Kiri, Jalan 2 F1 Melayu, Jalan
Alor, Jalan 5 C2 Gurney, Jalan 2 F2 Melur, Jalan 2 F4
Gurney, Lorong 2 F1 Menara KL
Ampang, Jalan 1 C5 Munshi Abdullah, 4 F1 S

Ampang, Lebuh 4 F1 Jalan 4 F1

Ampang Toll Road 2 C5 N 6 E3 Sahabat, Jalan 5 B2

Aquaria KLCC 2 F5 Nagasari, Jalan 5 A1 San Peng, Jalan 5 C5
National Art Gallery
Asrama, Jalan 2 E1 National Music Sarawak, Jalan 5 C4

H Museum 1 B5 Seladang, Jalan 6 E5
National Museum
B National Theater Semarak, Jalan 2 F2
Negeri Sembilan,
Baba, Jalan Haji Hassan Salleh, Jalan 2 D4 Sri Maha Mariamman
Badan Warisan Haji Hussin, Jalan 1 B3 Jalan
Balai Polis, Jalan 5 C4 Haji Taib, Jalan 1 B3 Temple 4 F3
Bangsar, Jalan 6 E1 Haji Yaakob, Jalan 2 F3 P
Barat, Jalan 4 F4 Hang Jebat, Jalan 4 F3 5 C2 Stadium, Jalan 5 A4
Bedara, Jalan 3 C5 Hang Tuah, Jalan 5 B4 P. Ramlee, Jalan
Berangan, Jalan 6 E3 Hicks, Lorong 5 B1 continues 2 D1 Stesen Sentral, Jalan 3 C5
Beremi, Jalan 5 C2 Horley, Jalan 6 D3
Beruang, Jalan 5 C2 Padang Belia, Jalan Sulaiman, Jalan 4 E4
Bugis, Jalan 5 C2 Padang Negeri
Bukit Bintang, Jalan 6 E5 4 E2 Sultan, Jalan 4 F3
Bukit Ceylon, Jalan 6 D5 Sembilan
Bukit Nanas, Jalan 5 C3 Padang, Jalan 3 C4 Sultan Abdul Samad
Bukit Travers 5 B2 Pahang, Jalan
Bulan, Jalan 4 F1 Pangkor, Jalan 1 C1 Building 4 E2
Bulatan Merdeka 3 B5 Parlimen, Jalan
Bunus, Jalan 5 C3 Pasar Besar, Lebuh Sultan
4 F4 Pasar, Jalan
4 E1 I Pekeliling Lama, Jalan 3 A4 Hishamuddin, Jalan 4 E4
Pelanduk, Jalan
Imbi Medan Perak, Jalan Sultan Ismail, Jalan 1 A4
Imbi, Jalan Perak, Lorong
Imbi, Lorong 6 D3 Perdana Botanical continues 5 C1
Inai, Lorong 5 C3
Ipoh, Jalan 6 E2 Gardens Sultan Salahuddin, Jalan 3 B1
Ipor Kecil, Jalan 6 E2 Perdana, Jalan
Islamic Arts Museum 1 A2 Perkarangan Tun 2 E5 Suria KLCC and KLCC
Istana, Jalan 1 A2
4 D4 Ismail 5 B1 Park 2 F5
4 F5 Persekutuan, Jalan
Persiaran Hampshire 4 D5 Syed Putra, Jalan 4 E5
Persiaran KLCC
Persiaran Lidcol Sze Ya Temple 4 F3
Persiaran Mahameru
Persiaran Maybank 3 A5
Persiaran Raja Chulan
Persiaran Stonor 6 D2 T
Persiaran Sultan
1 B1
Salahuddin
C J Petaling, Jalan 1 A1 Tanglin, Jalan 3 C2
Petronas Towers
Carcosa Seri Negara Jalan Petaling Market Pinang, Jalan 3 B2 Tembusu, Jalan 3 C3
Cemur, Jalan Jarrett, Jalan Pintasan RMM 4
Cendana, Jalan 3 B3 Jati, Jalan 4 F3 Pudu 14, Jalan 4 E2 Temerloh, Jalan 2 D1
Central Market 1 B1 Johor, Jalan 6 F4 Pudu, Jalan
Ceylon, Jalan 1 C4 Johor Selatan, Jalan 6 E2 Puncak, Jalan 6 D5 Tengah, Jalan 5 C1
Chagar, Jalan 4 E2 3 A5 Putra, Jalan
Changkat Bukit 5 A2 3 A5 1 B1 Tengkat Tong Shin 5 B2
1 A3 R
Bintang 6 E4 Tuanku Abdul
Changkat Damansara 5 B2 Rahmat, Jalan
Changkat Persekutuan 3 B5 Raja Abdullah, Jalan 5 C1 Rahman, Jalan 1 B3
Changkat Raja 3 B5 Raja Alang, Jalan
Raja Chulan, Jalan 2 D5 continues 4 E1
Chulan 5 B1
Changkat Thambi K continues Tun Perak, Jalan 4 E1
6 D4 Raja Chulan, Lorong
Dollah, Jalan Raja Laut, Jalan 3 B3 Tun Razak, Jalan 1 A1
Chan See Shu Yuen 4 F4
6 D3 Kampung Attap, Jalan 4 E5 continues 3 C3 Tun Sambanthan,
Temple 4 F3 Kampung Baru and Pasar Raja Laut, Lorong
Chan Wing, Jalan 2 D4 Raja Muda Abdul Jalan 4 D5
Cheng Lock, Jalan 6 F5 Minggu Market 6 F4
Cheong Yoke Kampung Pandan, Jalan 6 D5 Aziz, Jalan 3 C1
6 F5 Kanchil, Jalan 3 B3 Raja Muda Musa, Jalan
Choy, Jalan 4 F3 Kebun Bunga, Jalan 6 E2 Raja Muda, Lorong 3 B4 Y
Cheong Yoke Kemuning, Jalan 6 D3 Raja Uda, Jalan
5 A5 Khoo Teik Ee, Jalan 6 D1 2 F4
Choy, Lorong 1 B4 Kia Peng, Jalan 6 D4
Chinatown 1 B2 Kijang, Jalan 4 E2 2 F5 Yap Kwan Seng, Jalan 2 E4
Choo Cheng Khay, 6 F5 Kinabalu, Jalan 6 E1
6 F5 Kompleks Budaya Kraf 2 F4 Yew, Jalan 6 E5
Jalan 6 F5 Kuala Lumpur City 4 E2
Chow Kit Market 6 E1 3 A3
Chow Kit, Jalan Gallery 4 E4
Coales, Jalan Kuala Lumpur Railway 1 A4 5 A2
Cochrane, Jalan 4 E1
Cochrane, Lorong Station 5 A2
Conlay, Jalan Kuching, Jalan
6 E1
continues
3 B1
L 4 F3
2 E4
2 E5
2 E3
5 C3
5 B3
5 B1
1 A2

Landak, Jalan 6 D5

Lapangan Terbang, Jalan 5 B5

Ledang, Jalan 3 A2

D Lembah Perdana, Jalan 4 D3 1A1
1 C5
Damansara, Jalan Limau Manis Dua, Lorong 3 A5 1 B3
Dang Wangi, Jalan 4 F2
Dato Onn, Jalan 3 A3 Little India 1 B5 5 A2
Datuk H Eusoff, Jalan 1 B5 5 B1
Delima, Jalan 4 D1 Loke Yew, Jalan 5 B5 1 A3
Doraisamy, Jalan 1 A1 4 E1
Dr. Latiff, Jalan 6 F3 Lumut, Jalan 1 A1 1 B2
1 B4
1 C2 M 3 A3 1 B2
5 A4 1 C3
G 6 D2 Mahameru, Lebuhraya 2 D2
5 B5 Maharajalela Jalan 2 E5 2 D3
Gading, Jalan Malaysian Tourism 1 C1
Gajus, Jalan 4 F1
Information Complex
Masjid Hospital, Jalan
Masjid India

JGB PLAZA Titiwangsa RAZAK National Theater
N. K
TUN N . P E K E L I L I N G L A M BJIADLOARN
PEKELILING JALAN Titiwangsa
PLAZA
JL A

PAR PAHANG
AM
JL

BATA Pekeliling CEMUR LAN UTAMA
Bus Station
JALAN BATU JALAN TAIPING JA HOSPITAL
S E TJAI ALWANA N
JALAN Hospital JALAN Hospital
JALAN PANGKOR Sentosa Kuala Lumpur

JLN. RAHMAT JLN. 1/68 D JALAN JALAN JALAN MASJID HOSPITAL
DATUK H.
J A L AJALAN LUM U T Medical JALAN DR. LATIFF
N2/ 64A EUSOF F Research Unit
Cancer (UKM)

JALAN 1/48D I P OPutra Stadium
Jalan Raja

Muda

J

Court ALAN IPOR KECIL H

JLN. HJ. TAIB 4Chow J A L A N R A J A MU D A A B D U L A Z I Z JALAN ABDUL RAHMAN IDRIS
LORONG.T.A.RAHMAN 3
Federal Kit KL
JALAN TUANKU ABDUL RAHMAN International
Cinema
LLOARU.TRAJA
J A L AN PUTRA LO R . C H O W LOR. T. A. R. 4
JLN. CHOW KIT 4 CHJOAWLAKNIT JALAN HAJI HUSSIN JALAN RAJA ABDULLAH
PWTC KIT KIRI JLN.HJ.HUSSIN 1
The Mall RAJA LAUT
LO R O N G T I O N G N A M 7 THAMBOOSAMY
LORONG TIONG JLN.HJ.TAIB 3LOR. HJ. TAIB 5 JALAN DAUD
LOR. TIONG NAM 4 JALAN HAJI TAIB
Gombak NAM JALAN RAJA BOT

5 LOR. RAJA BOT

LOR. T. N. 8 TIONG NAM

LORONG TIONG NAM3 JALAN Chow Kit JALAN
JLN. HJ. TAIB DUA Market
JALAN
JALAN RAJA ALANG

L0R. T. N. 1 JALAN SRI AMAR

JALAN JALAN JALAN
DATO ABDUL RAZAK
AN
J A CHAGAR JALAN N. BELLA LOR. NAM JLN. SULTAN
LOR. T. ABDUL RAHMAN 2
L CHOW JALAN RAJA ALI
KKOJHJALYLOALNATAR.NI.NBRR.AMJAAMHAAHDAI DI
S U L J AL A Medan K I TJLN. D. S. SULAIMAN
Tuanku
Sultan T A N I S NR AJ A LS.HY.AKA.
Ismail Sheraton
M A I Imperial RAJA ABDULLAH
JALAN KUCHING L A U T

L

JALAN RAJA LAUT JLN. MEDAN TUANKU 1 KLHOART.IB KOYAN

LORONG GOMBAK JALAN MEDAN TUANKU MEDAN T. 2 JALA N DORAISAMY JALAN
CENDANA
JALAN Odeon JALAN JALAN YAP AH SHAKJLN . KEMUNTING Denmark
SEMARANG Theater Dang Embassy
WANGI JALAN Wangi
Pertama JALAN DANG MPANG
JAALN KUCHING Complex JALAN MUNSHI ABDULLAH
LOR. TUANKU A. RA HMAN
J L N . ISFAHAN LITTLE AJA JALAN
Bandaraya INDIA ABDULL A H A

Bank Negara JLN. BUNUS 6 Klang
Station THE GOLDEN
TRIANGLE

JLN. R

T EM Puteri T E M E R LO H Bunus
Titiwangsa
E R LO H
National Art JALAN School A N PULAPOL
Gallery JAL

JALAN FLETCHER JALAN ASRAMA

Jalan Fletcher Tamil J L N .KGI RUIR N E Y
Primary School

Maternity MUDA JALAN 2/ JALAN LORONG
Hospital A 1\65A S A N LAOHR OWNI NGG

RAJA National Heart JALAN National JALAN GURNEY
Institute Library 65

Bunus E SAN
AH
TUN OLNOGK W
ING
LO R O N G R
T

LO
TE

RAZAK LAI TET LOKE LAI
JALAN

JALAN RAJA MUDA ABDUL AZIZ SE MARAK
JALAN HJ. HASHIM
LOR. RAJA JALAN JLN. ABD. MANAN LORONG RA J A U DA LO JALAN JLN.G
MAHMUD RAJ

JALAN AHMADJALAN HAJIYAHYA SHEIKH AHMAD ALIK AR OUNDGA URNEY
JALAN HAMZAH JALAN HAMZAH M UDA
ABDUL JALAN RAJ A1
DATUK
JALAN PUAND
JALAN HJ. N
JALAN RAJA UDA J AML AAJNHAASLYDAEI H
E
KAMPUNG BARU YAAKOB S A L L S R A T
N H A JI
JALAN RAJA MAHMUD I

J A L A

A MUSA DATOK A

J A LAN
MLUODRA. RMAUJAS A 5 BDUL MALIK SENG JAWLEANNGLCIEHWEE
RAJA ALANG USA JALAN RA JA MUD N
N LORONG YAP KWA
LO R O N G Kampung Baru and 4 SENG
DAUD Pasar Minggu Market
Sri Lanka
RAJA PKampung Baru Embassy
A N Y AJ A L A N HJ . H A S S A N S A L L E
LOR. RAJA LO R . P I NRTMA SMA ADLAL TEAUBLNKUEABHSBUUARDHUuANLsYRGLtrAAAaAHYlBIiAYaEABRBSASTEIINHRNTAGINRKUGAKT AATMAPMANPAGN PHEARMS IPASRHAI RNE

MR AUJSAA G

M M
UDA 4
M
UDA JALAN KWAN
MUDA J

MUSA H P E RLSIIDACROALN

3

Embassy JAL

JALAN M AYA N G

LO R . M AYA N G

KAMPUNG KLCC
CENDANA
N G Petronas JLN. LUMBA KUDA
P A Towers
Malaysian
Suria KLCC
M Tourism

Pakistan A Information

Embassy N Complex
Renaissance
A L A

J M
LEE
JALAN SUL J AYLEAWN Asy-Syakirin
Mosque
L A WE E Lake Gardens
SW
P. R A Mandarin
JALAN Oriental Children’s
Pool
TA N New Zealand
KLCC
Bukit Embassy Crown PINANG PUBLIC PARK
Nanas Regency JALAN
I S LOR.
MAI PERAK
Aquaria KLCC
L
KLCC
KLCC
PERSIARAN

JALAN TUNKU
JLN. SULTAN SALAHUDDIN

JAL
IL N GAN
PE RTU KA RA A
PERSIAR A N S U LATAN S NI SM

MAHAMERU

ALAHUDDIN

AN S
LTAN SA
LAHU D D JALAN
Parliament U
House IN JALAN TAN GLIN

J A LA N L E D National Asean JALAN
Monument Sculpture
Garden

A JALAN PARLI M E N
NG
LORONG KOTA 1
Open Air
LEBUHRA Theater
M
ERU MAHA
YA
JAL AN CENDERAM
ULIAPERSIARAN MA
LA
Carcosa Seri JA N
Negara
HAME RU KEBUN B UNG

DAM PERDANA BOTANICAL JAL A N PERDAN A Orchid
GARDENS Garden
J A L A N TEMBUSU
JALA N AN SARA A

FEDERAL P TASIK
R
SIAR
HILL JA E PERDANA KL
LA Bird
JALAN SELANGOR N AN Memorial Park
JALA N K E LA N TA N D Tun Razak
JALAN KE DAH
JALAN A M AH A M E RU Tasik JALAN KEBUN BUNGA
K EL Perdana

M

AN

AN

SA

TA N

R A

JALAN NEGERI JOHOR JA L A N PERSEKUTUAN JALAN
N UTU A N AT DA M ANSARA
JLN. NE LA National
TAP.SNEMEGBEILRAI NJA Museum

JLN JOH OR S E Tourist
P E R SEK Development

T Center
ANGK
A JALAN
M
CHANGKA CH
JALAN A
JA T R A V E R SSEMBILAN A NSA RA
CH
DUA NG Hilton Le Meridien
KAT D Kuala Kuala Lumpur

O NG I S LA L O R J A LAN LS TuEmS EpNuSrE NKT RLA L
AN N T G T RAV
LO R O N S E L Stesen
E R S
M N A N
GMEARIUSEMBILAN SELATA
G O LAN

L I B U R Sentral

K I

TRA V ERS KL
Sentral

IJSLNMATILUN JLN. SULTAN SALAHUDDIN DATJOALOANNN Coliseum Café

J A L A N K UGoCmHbIakN G JALAN BUNUS
OMBAK
ADB IDNULDRIAAHMAN
LJJALAALNATNUANOKRGUOENAG. RAHMAN KlaRnEg J A
Experimental G
TUANKU
P. TUN Theater MASJI
ISMAIL
LOR.
LAN

A AMPANG

JALAN J AS

Masjid JALAN BUKIT NAN
India

PARLIMEN St. Mary’s MELAYU MELAKA St. John’s
Cathedral LEBUH Cathedral
JALAN
LU JALAN RAJA Supreme
Court
BA TUN JALAN
Royal LAN RAJA LAUT G

NA Selangor PERAK

I Club Sultan Abdul JALAN BENTENG PAN LEE Muzium
Samad Building AM Telekom

K S.

RAJA Merdeka Masjid Masjid HJ. LEKIU RAJA
Square Jamek Jamek

JALAN BUKIT AMAN JALAN LEBUH JALAN TUN JACLHAUNLAN
JALAN HANG

PLAZA PMAESDAARN JALAN
PUTRA LEBUH PASAR BESAR JALAN TUN TAN

Kuala
Lumpur City

Gallery

National
JA L A N JA SIEW
Music Textile Central LOR ONGSPI NUDU
Museum PERSEKUTUANMuseumMarket

Butterfly BUKIT Dayabumi LO R O N G P UDU
Park
Complex CK

AMAN JALAN MAHKAMAH Sze Ya Temple LO
JALAN
Hospital SULTAN HISHAMUDD I N JALAN CHENG
Tanglin TUGU JALAN HANG KASTURI JALAN SULTAN
JALAN TUGU JALAN
JA LA JALAN JALAN HANG LEKIR
C E N DE RAS ARI N
L General
Post Office
EMB A H CENDERASARI TUN SAMBANTHAN Sri Maha
JALAN S. MOH
Pasar Mariamman Temple

Seni CHINATOWN
PERDANA JA L A N T U N HJ. S. LEE Jalan Petaling
HANG JEBAT
JA L A N S U LTA Market N
N JA
PETALING L A
JLN.PANGGUN
Klang Bus
Station

Masjid Negara

Islamic Arts JALAN PERDANA JAL AN Traffic GPBJOAALLLIAAS IN
Museum Police HQ Chan See
JAL AN PE R D ANA JLN.
Police JLN. KINABALU Shu Yuen Temple
Museum
BULATAN
Islamic H ISHAMUDDIN M ERDEK A
Center
JALAN HOSE
JLN. RIA Kuala Lumpur ONY
Railway Station
Historic Society
National Majestic N AT TA P J A L of Malaysia
Planetarium Hotel KAMPUNG A
JALAN SU LAIM ROJATALANN JATLUABNA BELFIELD
DAMANSARA JLN. SULTAN
DAMANSARA Holy Rosary N
Church
A L AN JAMLAANNAH JA
LA

THAN JAL AN DAMANSARA R JA

UT

SAMBAN TT DP
SCO
G FIELD
N
RO AN SYE
LO AN
SOC
JALAN BEL
JALAN TUN BELIA JALAN LORON G
IS
JLN. PADANG TANA
L

A B E LFIELD

J

G ALAN S ULTAJ
P. R AM
LEE J A L A N TE N G A H

N

PUNCA
NANAS Menara JALA LO R ON JALAN PERAK
Kuala Lumpur
J A L A N P. R A M L E E Raja
BUKIT K ISMAIL Chulan
N
JALAN BUKIT NANAS LORO N G R AJA CHULA N
LORONG HICKS
FOREST RESERVE

J ALAN BU K I T CHULAN CHANGKAT JALAN RAJA CHULAN JALAN SULTAN IS M A I L

N St.Andrew’s JALAN BUKIT CEYLON C E Y LO NJALAN NAGASARI
A N AS Church NG
RO
Plaza Raja AJA RA LO Church Menara
Chulan Panosa
CHULAN
BUKITJ A L A N K R JA
M AY B A N BEDA R A
B I N TA N GPE RSIA R A N R AJ C EY L O N
PERSIA BEREM I
Menara Maybank AN
Numismatic Museum RA N J A L A N JA L C H A N J A L A JALAN JALAN
N
JALAN PUDU LAMA A N S A GK AT B U K I T B E R A N G
A B
CHULAN HABAT TO NG HI N IN T A N G

S

Pudu Sentral JALAN K I T B I N TA N GJ A L A NTENGKAT A LO R
Bus Station PUDU Cathay JALAN Bukit
Plaza Bintang Plaza
Plaza Rakvat JALAN ROBERTSON B UT
Rakyat CJHAELEANKESIEN O N Cinema
G A L LO W AY G
JALAN W E S L E Y Plaza S H I N N
Magnum L A BULAN
Sun Complex JALAN
J A Plaza

St.Anthony’s J A L AN PUDU
Church C H E W JALAN

K ESEI N JALAN Imbi

YWCA 14JALAN IMBI
JALAN
JALAN KL Police PUDU

C T. STADIUM HANG Headquarters

J E BAT

Stadium Hang Tuah
Hang Tuah
JALAN Negara JALA N B A B A
STADIUM ALAN SARAWA
TUAH LO R O N G
ERAN SEJLLANT. ABNRUNEI
Stadium JALAN KENANGA HANG LOR. M LO R O N G J
Merdeka JA LAN
M ERANTI
ERBAU M ERAN JALAN
NG Pudu
JALAN M E LAONRTOI DUA
LOR. PENG
ONG M R T I

Maharajalela JALAN R TIGA

JA MAHAR Fire Station LO K
Clinic
LAN L AN KENANGA
TI SATU
TALAKA
J A A J A

LELA

JALAN CHOO CHENG KHAY
JALAN WISMA PUTRA MJAEMLAPNELAM JALAN MERLIMAU

JLN. LAPANGAN TERBANG JALAN LOKE JALAN GELUGOR

OB JAL A N H OSE
LEENLFFGFIEKICLOEDK JALAN SAN

KAMPUNG YEW
ATTAP
J AGLAAJNU S

Belgium JALAN Vietnam STONOR Japan JLN. TUN RAZAK
Embassy STONOR Embassy Embassy

JALAN KIA PENG PERSIARAN

PENG Philippine JALAN EATON
Embassy

JALAN PERAK KIA J ALAN PENG JALAN STONOR

JALAN CA N G K AT KIA JALAN KIA PENG

JALAN Badan Warisan
JALAN CONLAY

Pavilion R AJA Kompleks
Shopping Mall CHULAN Budaya Kraf

BUKIT BINTANG J A L A N B U K I TJJAAL
AN
A L GADINGStarhill B I N TA N G Kuwait
KL Plaza JALAN Gallery Embassy

J LO R O
ATI I
Lot 10 J LO R O N G N N G INAI Indonesia
N N A Embassy
N KEMUNI G KAMPUNG
(Shopping A LT E R GREN IER R I MBI A A L
Complex) W P AWDAALTNEGR GRENI L
N
JALAN E
JALA
JALAN
Bukit
LO JALAN
J A L A NBintang G

Sungei RR EONNI J A L A N B A R AT JALAN DELIMA
Wang Plaza P UNAI
G JALAN IMBI UTARA
E

R

MEDAN KHOO TE IK E E JALA N JALAN

J ALA JALAN MELUR MELATI JALAN
NJAMIN
BE RAWA
N JALAN JALAN SELATAN
SELATAN
JALAN 1/77B JALAN HORLEY LAN
A SEL A N
JALAN CHAN WING
J A T
J A L A N C H A N GKA
JALAN OR. S E L A T A N

L

U TARA T TAM B I PUDU LORONG DAVIS LORONG DAVIS

JALAN B. JA L A N D A V I S
B A B A BRUNEJIAULTAANRA
BARAT KIJANG DO LLAH A JALAPNANKDAAMNPUNG
NDUK
BUGIS PEL JALAN JARRETT
JALAN A L AN JALAN SELADAN G JALAN A
BRUNEI Pudu L AN
J J

Plaza YOKE CHOY

RUSA COCHRANE
MEMBERANGY E W G
A

P A N JALAN RAZAK ON
BERU OD
ANG UF

U J A L KANCHIL LANDAK JALAN LO R
LAN JALAN C. YOKE CHOY AKH
D U JA JALANN YUS

N N
LO R O N G NAKHODA YUSUF
SARAW JALAN J A L A N G UA RAZAK LORONG CHEONG
Y A P H IN

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A K JALAN SAYUR JALAN PASAR Masjid
Shah Alam

JAL TUN J ALAN COC

AN P JALAN PASAR BARU JALAN JALAN COALES H TEMJEANLGAGONNG
R BARU
A S A JALAN NICHOLAS R A N

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JCAOLNAENC



MALAYSIA REGION BY REGION 93

NORTHWEST PENINSULA

The northwestern states of Malaysia are among the most
geographically diverse and historically significant in the country.
The landscape encompasses everything from coastal plains and
lushly forested mountains to jutting limestone cliffs and pristine
islands. A long legacy of immigrants and rulers, attracted by the
region’s strategic geographical position and its natural wealth,
has bequeathed a fascinating mix of cultures.

Archaeological remains found at the influx of Chinese immigrants. As a result
coastal site of Lembah Bujang provide of these varied early influences and
evidence of a Hindu-Buddhist kingdom economic developments, the Northwest
that dates back to the 4th century AD. Peninsula is more cosmopolitan and less
In the 7th and 8th centuries, the region culturally conservative than other parts
was ruled by the Srivijaya empire and of Malaysia. It is also one of the most
later by Siam (now Thailand), while the developed and populous regions in the
15th century saw the rise of the Sultanate country, comprising not only ethnic
of Malacca. With the beginning of the Malays, Chinese, and Indians, but also
17th century, a power struggle ensued indigenous groups such as the Orang
between colonial powers in the area Asli and the Orang Syam in the interior
until the British finally gained control. jungles and far north. The old royal capital
of Kuala Kangsar and the vibrant, historic,
By the mid-19th century, the growing and culturally diverse city of Georgetown
importance of tin mining in the states in Penang are on the itinerary of most
of Perak and Selangor brought with it visitors to the Northwest Peninsula. More
far-reaching economic, political, and laid-back tourists head for the region’s
social repercussions. It fueled Malaysia’s pristine beaches or the soothing environs
tremendous economic rise in the of its tea plantations and cool hill stations.
20th century and also attracted a huge

The palm-fringed white sands of Pantai Cenang Beach, Langkawi
The ornate tiered pagoda of the Kek Lok Si Temple in Penang

94 MALAYSIA REGION BY REGION

Exploring the Northwest Peninsula Hat Yai

Few regions in the country offer the range of attractions found PERLIS

in the Northwest Peninsula. The interiors feature cool hill Bukit Kayu
Hitam

stations, such as the celebrated Cameron Highlands, limestone PULAU Changlun
Kuala Perlis
cliffs riddled with cave temples, including the Batu Caves, and LANGKAWI

Chinese-dominated tin-rush towns such as Ipoh. The most Pulau Tuba KUALA
popular destinations are along the coast, including Penang, Pulau Dayang KEDAH
which is an ideal base for exploring the region and a fascinating Bunting

destination in itself, and the islands of Langkawi and Pangkor. ALOR
The archaeologically important Lembah Bujang lies in Kedah STAR

which, together with Perlis, is carpeted with paddy fields.

Sights at a Glance GUNUNG JERAI

Towns and Cities Areas of Natural Beauty LEMBAH
4 Kuala Selangor BUJANG
7 Ipoh 5 Fraser’s Hill Penang
q Taiping 6 Cameron Highlands pp98–9 Georgetown
e Kuala Kangsar 0 Kinta Valley Butterworth
r Georgetown pp106–11 o Penang Hill
f Batu Maung s Penang National Park See inset below
j Alor Star h Gunung Jerai
k Kuala Kedah Kuala Kurau
Historical Sites and Buildings
Places of Worship 50
1 Batu Caves 8 Kellie’s Castle 50
t Dhammikarama Temple w Lenggong Valley
y Wat Chayamangkalaram g Lembah Bujang
i Kek Lok Si Temple
d Snake Temple Islands and Beaches 0 kilometers
0 miles
Gardens and Themed 9 Pulau Pangkor
Attractions p Batu Ferringhi
3 Genting Highlands a Teluk Bahang
u Penang Botanic Gardens l Pulau Langkawi pp118–19

Museums and Galleries Penang
2 Museum JAKOA
BATU Tanjung
TELUK FERRINGHI Tokong
BAHANG
WAT
PENANG PENANG BOTANIC CHAYAMANGKALARAM
GARDENS
NATIONAL DHAMMIKARAMA
TEMPLE
PARK PENANG HILL

Pinang KEK LOK GEORGETOWN
Sungai Rusa SI TEMPLE

Hitam Jelutung

Butterworth

Gelugor

Korok Penang Bridge

Balik Pulau

Pekan SNAKE TEMPLE
Genting Ara Re

lau Pulau
Jerejak

Teluk Bayan Lepas Penang 2nd Bridge
Kumbar
BATU
MAUNG

0 kilometers 5
0 miles
5

Palm-fringed Pelangi Beach,
Pulau Langkawi

For hotels and restaurants see p279 and pp292–3

NORTHWEST PENINSULA 95

Kuala Getting Around
Nerang
A good domestic flight network covers Ipoh, Pulau Pangkor,
Tasik Langkawi, Georgetown, and Alor Star. The North–South Highway and
Pedu Route 1, the region’s two major roads, and the national railroad (KTM)
run almost parallel with each other, tracing the length of the west
Nami coast and linking the major towns. Driving is a good option; roads are
safe and traffic is mainly law-abiding. Two bridges connect Penang to
the mainland, as do car and passenger ferries. Lumut is the ferry point
for Pulau Pangkor, while ferries to Pulau Langkawi are available at
Kuala Kedah, Kuala Perlis, and Georgetown.

Pendang

KEDAH

Sungai Tasek Batu
Petani Melintang
Kampung
Kuala Kupang Tasik Temengor Pasir
Ketil Puteh
Kampung
Kerun Banding

Kulim Grik

Bukit Mertajam Lawin Lake

NORTH-SOUT Gunung Inas Kenering

Selama 5,909 ft
Air Kala

H H Padang Gerus

Bagan IGHWAY MAXWELL PERAK
Serai HILL
Sungai Siput
Utara Mountains

TAIPING KUALA
KANGSAR
KINTA
VALLEY

Pantai Batu Gajah IPOH Brinchang Kek Lok Si Temple in Penang, the largest Buddhist
Remis Jelai temple in Malaysia
Simpang
Pulai CAMERON Key
HIGHLANDS Highway
KELLIE’S Tanah Rata Titiwangsa Major road
CASTLE Ringlet Minor road
Railroad
Kampar International border
State border
Lumut Tapah NORTH-SOUTH HIGHWAY
Bidor
PULAU Kampung Koh
PANGKOR Kampung

Pasir Belanda

Bagan Teluk Intan Kampung Cin
Datuk Ceroh
Simpang Ampat
Rungkup

Sabak FRASER’S Raub Peak
HILL Teranum

Sungai Besar Kampung
Simpang Lima
Kuala Kubu Bentong
SELANGOR Baharu
Temerloh
Sekincan GENTING Karak
HIGHLANDS
Tanjung Karang

KUALA SELANGOR

Sungai Buluh MUSEUM JAKOA Mancis
Bahau
BATU CAVES Kuala Lumpur
Kapar

Pulau Klang Klang Petaling Jaya
Pulau Ketam
Shah Kajang

Port Alam

Klang Putrajaya

Banting

Seremban

Morib

Tanjung
Sepat

For keys to symbols see back flap

96 MALAYSIA REGION BY REGION

Orang Asli Affairs Department,

the museum presents the

history of the 18 distinct groups

within the community along

with their geographical distribu-

tion, musical instruments, orna-

ments, medicines, models of

their dwellings, and a collection

of traditional hunting weapons,

such as blowpipes and poison

spoons. Among the most

impressive of these is the display

of traditional handicrafts, which

includes wooden head carvings

with fierce facial expressions.

Vibrant paintings of Hindu deities on the walls at one of the Batu Caves Details of daily life, including

1 Batu Caves wedding rites and religious
richly painted with scenes from practices, are also described.

8 miles (13 km) N of Kuala Lumpur the Hindu scriptures. In a 3 Genting Highlands
on Middle Ring Road 2. Tel 1300- chamber behind the central
88-5050. ' Batu Caves. @ shrine is the statue of another 31 miles (50 km) NE of Kuala Lumpur.
Open 7am–6pm daily. 0 = deity, Lord Rama. @ from Kuala Lumpur, then cable car
_ Thaipusam Festival (Jan/Feb). (optional). 0 = ∑ rwgenting.com
The cave gets extremely busy Genting Skyway runs every 20 min;
Set high in a range of rugged so it’s best to head there early in after midnight every hour.
limestone cliffs, the Batu Caves the morning. Another essential
are a vast cavern complex that tip: do not feed the monkeys
that congregate at the entrance.

has become one of the most Unlike most conventional hill-

popular attractions near the 2 Museum JAKOA station retreats, the 6,562-ft
capital. Long known to the (2,000-m-) high Genting

indigenous Orang Asli people, Jalan Pahang, Gombak, 18 miles Highlands, located in the

the caves only gained (30 km) N of Kuala Lumpur. Titiwangsa Mountain Range, is

worldwide popularity when Tel (03) 6189-2113. @ an extensive entertainment and

American naturalist William Open 9am–5pm Sat–Thu. - = gambling complex. The glitzy

Hornaday came upon them in 24-hour Casino de Genting,

1878. Deeply impressed by the Though visited by few people, one of the largest in the world,

largest cave, he compared it to a Museum JAKOA, formerly contains endless rows of

grand cathedral. In the 1890s, it known as the Orang Asli Chinese and Western games

was converted into a shrine Museum, provides a superb tables, a computerized

dedicated to the Hindu deity introduction to the customs, racetrack, and slot machines.

Lord Murugan, and soon traditions, and material culture Replacing the older Genting

became the most important of Malaysia’s almost 100,000 Theme Park is the massive

pilgrimage site for Malaysia’s Orang Asli people, the earliest Twentieth Century Fox World,

Hindus. During the annual known indigenous inhabitants with more than 25 rides and

Thaipusam festival, held in late of the peninsula. Run by the attractions themed around

January or early February, a

spectacular scene unfolds here,

when an estimated one million

pilgrims visit the caves (see p35).

Dominating the entrance to

the caves is a 141-ft- (43-m-) tall

golden statue of Lord Murugan.

From here a steep flight of 272

steps leads up to the main cave.

Also known as Temple or

Cathedral Cave, it is 328 ft

(100 m) high and is partially lit

by shafts of light that stream

through gaps in the roof. The

cave walls are lined with statues

of Lord Murugan, along with

those of other Hindu gods,

including Shiva, Ganesh, and

Durga. The dome of the cave is Genting Skyway, a cable car to Genting Highlands retreat

For hotels and restaurants see p279 and pp292–3

NORTHWEST PENINSULA 97

movies such as Alien Spoonbill sandpiper, Kuala Selangor Of all the hill stations set in the
vs. Predator, Night at the Nature Park Titiwangsa mountains, Fraser’s
Museum, Planet of the Apes, Hill retains the most distinct
Titanic, and Ice Age. A particular highlight of Kuala colonial ambience with Tudor-
Selangor is the chance to see style buildings. There is no
The resort, considered to be the dazzling kelip kelip, or public transport, and just one
the largest in the world, has fireflies, along the banks of road up and down. It can get
more than 10,000 rooms across the Sungai Selangor at busy on weekends and during
6 hotels, 100 restaurants and Kampung Kuantan, 6 miles the school vacations, but
more than 80 shops, a golf (10 km) east of the capital. otherwise during the week it is
course, and several concert usually quiet and relaxed,
halls that host international T Fort Altingsburg perfect for jungle strolls and
performing artists. Bukit Melawati. Open daily. afternoon teas.

An attraction in itself is the O Kuala Selangor Nature Park At the center of town is a
Genting Skyway, one of the Jalan Klinik. Tel (03) 2287-9422. market square and a clock
longest cable cars in Southeast Open 9am–6pm daily. ∑ mns.my tower covered with creeper
Asia with the capacity to hold vines. There’s an organic
100 gondolas and carry 1,600 5 Fraser’s Hill market garden next to the
passengers per hour on a 2-mile tiny Allan’s Water lake,
(3.4-km) distance from mid-hill 62 miles (100 km) N of Kuala Lumpur. where you can pick your own
at Gohtong Jaya to Maxims n Tourism Malaysia Pahang, (09) 517- strawberries. Paddle-boating is
Hotel at the peak. 7111. 8 nature walks. 0 available on the lake. This small
area is surrounded by dense
4 Kuala Selangor A hill station sprawling across woods, which contain
seven forested hills, the 4,921-ft several nature trails.
42 miles (67 km) NW of Kuala (1,500-m) Fraser’s Hill is named
Lumpur on Hwy 4, then 5. * after British pioneer Louis James One of the hill station’s main
39,200. @ Fraser. A mule-train driver and attractions is its abundant flora
tin-ore trader, he arrived here in and fauna. Famous as a bird-
The small and quiet district the late 1890s, but then watching destination, more
capital of Selangor, located mysteriously disappeared than 265 species of birds have
at the mouth of the Sungai around 1910. Shortly after, been recorded in the area.
Selangor, was once the royal Fraser’s Hill was developed as a Every June, Fraser’s Hill hosts
capital of the Sultanate of refreshing retreat for the British the annual International Bird
Selangor. It was conquered by expatriate community. Race, in which teams of
the Dutch in 1784, and soon ornithologists compete to spot
became the scene of a A picturesque journey as many bird varieties as
number of intense battles. leads to Fraser’s Hill, passing possible over a 24-hour period.
During their invasion, the through giant bamboo groves
Dutch destroyed the sultan’s and tree ferns, and climbing About 3 miles (5 km)
fort and rebuilt it, naming it steeply through the Gap, a northwest of the center is
Fort Atlingsburg after their mountain pass between Jeriau Waterfall, which flows
governor general. Perched Kuala Kubu Bharu and Raub. into a small stream.
atop Bukit Melawati, Traffic is heavily controlled
a hill overlooking the town, because of the windy Foliage-covered clock tower in the center
the fort was battled over conditions on the road, so be of Fraser’s Hill
repeatedly, and all that prepared for your journey to
remains today are sections of take longer than expected.
the wall and cannons.

Directly below the fort lies
the boundary of Kuala
Selangor Nature Park, a
mangrove forest, home to
more than150 species of birds
and a variety of wetland
animals. This is the only area in
Malaysia to record sightings of
the spoonbill sandpiper. It is
also home to a variety of fish
and crabs, found in the
mangroves along the park’s
coastline. Several artificial
ponds are surrounded by
nature trails, observation
hides and towers.

98 MALAYSIA REGION BY REGION

6 Cameron Highlands THAILAND

The largest and most popular hill station in Malaysia, Cameron Georgetown
Highlands is located on the northwest corner of Pahang. It is
named for the British surveyor William Cameron who charted •
the area in 1885. Dotted with lush tea plantations and farms,
the region is renowned for its flowers and fresh produce. M A L AY S I A
The temperature here rarely exceeds 22° C (72° F) and is
accompanied by mists and light rainfall, which makes it a great Strait of Area of map
getaway from the hot plains. It is also a popular destination Malacca Illustrated
for trekkers. Cameron Highlands retains a distinct colonial
ambience, with its principal settlement located in Tanah Rata. Ipoh•

Key
Major road
Minor road
Trail
Peak

. Smokehouse Hotel Gunung Perdah Strawberry
A mock-Tudor building on the outskirts of 5,171 ft
Tanah Rata, the Smokehouse Hotel typifies the Park Resort
colonial architecture that adds to the appeal of Kampung
Cameron Highlands. It is popular with visitors Orang Asli Cameron
for its real Devonshire cream teas.
Highlands

Resort

Weather Golf
Station Club

Jim Thompson Gunung Jasar Kampung
5,564 ft Taman Sedi

In March 1967, Parit
Falls
James H W Thompson,

a successful US-born Tanah
Rata
Thai businessman,

disappeared while on

holiday in the Cameron

Highlands. He simply

walked out of the

cottage where he was

staying, and never Bharat Tea

came back. At the time, Estate Ringlet
Jim Thompson shortly before and for months after-

his disappearance wards, the media was

filled with speculation

about his fate. With his disappearance, he

became a legendary figure, leaving behind him

a resurrected and resilient Thai silk industry 0 km 1

and a traditional teak home in Bangkok. Jim 0 miles 1

Thompson’s home is now an exquisite museum

of Southeast Asian art.

For hotels and restaurants see p279 and pp292–3

NORTHWEST PENINSULA 99

VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Practical Information
56 miles (90 km) E of Ipoh.
* 12,000. n Jalan Besar,
Tanah Rata; (012) 657-1084.
∑ cameronhighlands.com

Transport
@ from Penang and Kuala
Lumpur.

. Sungai Palas Boh Tea Plantation
This stunning estate offers free daily tours. Visitors can purchase teas

and enjoy fine views across the surrounding hills while sampling tea

and cakes in the estate tearoom.

Gunung Ipoh
Brinchang
6,645 ft Blue Valley Butterfly Garden
Tea Estate Almost 300 species of butterfly
Uncle Sam’s are on show here, alongside
Farm Kuala Terla scorpions, giant rhinoceros
beetles, and camouflaged
Rose Valley stick insects.

Brinchang Rose Garden
This garden has an
immense appeal for
locals as well as tourists
who visit to see the
exotic roses in bloom.
The flowers flourish only

in temperate hill
areas such as the
Cameron Highlands.

Gunung
Beremban
6,037 ft

Mardi Agricultural KEY
Station
1 Gunung Jasar, at 5,564 ft (1,696
Robinson m), offers fine views across Cameron
Falls Highlands from its bald summit and
is easily accessible by a carefully
Robinson Falls marked trail from Tanah Rata.
Power Station
2 Gunung Perdah, at 5,171 ft
. Sam Poh Temple (1,576 m), rises above an Orang Asli
This ornate Chinese-Buddhist temple is situated on a hill village to the north of Tanah Rata and
overlooking the town of Brinchang. Protected by gilded dominates the northwestern horizon.
lions and temple guardians, it serves as the main place
of worship for the local Chinese. 3 All Souls’ Church, erected in
1958, serves as a civilian church as
well as the Anglican retreat center at
Cameron Highlands.

For keys to symbols see back flap