China

WHERE TO EAT 597

JIAYUGUAN Lin Yuan Jiudian ¤ yy

Xinhua Nan Lu 34, Tel (0937) 628 6918

Even by Chinese standards, hotel restaurants in Jiayuguan are diabolical. Not to worry – the light, immaculately
presented Cantonese and Huaiyang cuisine at this four-story restaurant means that it is usually full-to-bursting with
locals – always a promising sign, so take heart. No English menu.

LANZHOU Mingde Gong ¤ yy

Jiuquan Lu 191, Tel (0931) 466 8588

Opened in 2000, this flagship restaurant for Gansu cuisine (long cai), a fusion between home-style Chinese fare and
lamb-based dishes from the northwest, ironically draws most of its chefs from Guangzhou. It has a vast first floor
dining hall, and opulent private rooms; service is attentive throughout.

TIANSHUI Niu Dawan ¤y

Er Ma Lu

Gansu’s most famous contribution to national cuisine is beef noodles (niu rou mian), and there are few restaurants
that offer a more authentic rendition than this bustling establishment (the name is a pun on “beef tycoon.”) Earn
respect by asking to add more beef (jia yi fen rou). Located next to the Beidao Qu coach station.

XINING Ma Linhan Yi Kao ¤y

Shuijing Xiang 276, Tel (0971) 822 1835

You could visit any food stall or restaurant in this lively pedestrian street and sate your hunger for under ¥20. This
family-run outfit offers boisterous service and mouthwatering skewered delicacies, from simple lamb kabobs to
succulent grilled mushrooms – create your own “barbeque” in true point-and-choose style.

XINJIANG

KUQA Umerjan Resturani (Wumai’erhong Meishi Cheng) ¤˚ y

Tuanjie Lu, Tel (0997) 712 4634

Lamb kabobs are the most popular snack-on-the-run in Xinjiang; this restaurant raises them to an art form. Huge
chunks of tender meat, generously spiced and quickly fired over glowing wood embers are the perfect
accompaniment to freshly baked naan. Standard Chinese dishes and assortment of Western dishes available.

TURPAN Xin Shiji ¤ yy

Xinzhan Dingzi Lukou, Tel (0995) 855 1199

Locals and tourists flock to enjoy generous servings of muttony Uighur cuisine at this open-air restaurant, and the
Uighur-style banquet adds to the convivial atmosphere. Traditionally-costumed staff are friendly to the point of
cheekiness and there is a nightly song and dance performance with alcohol-assisted audience participation.

URUMQI Vine Coffeehouse & English Corner (Deman Kafeiwu) ¤y

Minzhu Lu 65, Tel (0991) 230 4831

Opened shortly after 2000 and one of the most unlikely surprises you’ll encounter in Xinjiang, this West Indian café
was opened by a former student of Xinjiang Arts College. Near the Xinjiang Hotel, you’ll find cookies, real coffee,
pan-fried steaks, vegetarian dishes, and all manner of other luxuries you will doubtless be missing.

TIBET

LHASA Mayke Ame (Maji A’mi) ¤y

Bajiao Jie Dongnan Jiao, Tel (0891) 632 4455

Head straight for the rooftop dining area, which commands an unbeatable view of Tibet’s liveliest, holiest kora
(pilgrim circuit). Service and cuisine reach levels of sophistication other eateries in Lhasa attempt but fail to match.
Perhaps the first Tibetan chain restaurant – it now boasts a popular,more expensive Beijing outlet.

LHASA Dunya Restaurant and Bar ¤˚ yy

Beijing Dong Lu 100, Tel (0891) 633 3374

Run by Dutch and American expats, Dunya is the best restaurant in Tibet. With fusion dishes such as the yak sizzler
or “organic” yak burger, pizza, and chicken cordon bleu, small wonder you need to make reservations for dinner
during summer. Happy hour in the bar on Friday nights has become a Lhasa institution.

SHIGATSE Tashi’s Restaurant (Zhashi Canting) ¤ yy

Jijilangka Lu, Tel (0892) 883 5969

Run by the same family that owns the Mandala in Lhasa, this second floor restaurant is tricky to locate. Hearty Nepali
curries and dhal (lentil stew), excellent vegetarian fare, and the ubiquitous yak sizzler are reason enough to seek it
out. For those feeling slightly less adventurous, Western dishes are also available.

598 T R AV E L E R S ’ N E E D S

SHOPS & MARKETS

CHINA’S RICH artistic heritage age-old techniques, and authentic
is reflected in its stunning items are not hard to find. Perhaps
range of characteristic some of the most unique souvenirs

works of art – from stylized land- are those produced by China’s eth-

scape paintings and calligraphy nic minorities, particularly their

to delicate ceramic bowls and accomplished embroidery. The

exquisitely carved bamboo. With major cities have seen the emer-

the recent burgeoning of tourism gence of department stores, which

and the official encouragement Statue of provide certificates of authentic-
Buddhist deity
of enterprise, Chinese cities are ity for items such as jewelry and

alive with shops and markets sell- semi-precious stones (although

ing an often bewildering array of trin- still no guarantee). Many large hotels

kets and souvenirs. Even though the also have souvenir shops, although

market is flooded with cheap imita- these tend to stock over-priced, up-

tions, many objects are still made by market items, such as silk and jade.

OPENING HOURS tourist hotels and in state-run
shops. You are unlikely to be
SHOPS IN CHINA are usually An array of calligraphy brushes able to pay by debit card
open from 8:30am until for sale in a Beijing market anywhere. A few ATMs in the
fairly late in the evening – larger cities accept foreign
around 8pm – while winter HOW TO PAY credit and debit cards – look
timings are generally 9am to around head branches of the
7pm. The opening and CHINESE CURRENCY is the yuan, major international banks and
closing times of shops, also known as renminbi, the Bank of China. It is recom-
however, may vary from or people’s money (shortened mended to carry traveler’s
place to place. For instance, to RMB). One yuan is divided checks, as well as a supply of
in some areas they open as into 10 jiao or mao, each of currency such as US dollars,
early as 8am, and stay open which is divided even farther Euros or pounds sterling as
until well after 8pm. Some of into 10 fen. Credit cards are they are the easiest to convert.
the large shopping centers in only accepted in the larger The Bank of China has
Beijing, Shanghai, and Hong exchange desks for foreign
Kong don’t close before 9pm. currency and traveler’s checks,
Local food shops and markets and these are also found at
selling fresh produce remain airports, in larger hotels, and
open for business from early in certain stores. Keep your
in the morning until late at exchange receipts as you will
night. Visitors should note need them to convert your
that some shops remain spare renminbi into another
closed on public holidays, currency before leaving the
the most important being the country (see pp620–21).
Chinese New Year (Spring
Festival), National Day BARGAINING
(October 1), and New Year’s
Day (January 1). BARGAINING IS a common
practice in China, espe-
Nanjing Road’s dazzling neon billboards, Shanghai cially in street markets, night
bazaars, and souvenir stands.
It is even worth trying in the
smarter, more expensive
hotels, modern shops, depart-
ment stores, and government
emporia and Friendship
Stores as prices may still be
reduced. Stallholders are
notorious for charging visitors
thrice the “real” price, and
sometimes their starting price
may be up to ten times the
cost. Make a comparison of
prices and be conscious of
what others are paying,
particularly local Chinese.

SHOPS & MARKETS 599

cooking pots. While some
markets still follow the lunar
calendar, which is confusing
for most visitors, many have
shifted to a more regular
schedule. Such markets are
busiest between mid-morning
and mid-afternoon. The
variety of food, souvenirs,
and domestic items on sale is
astounding, but be prepared
to bargain hard.

ANTIQUES

UNLESS YOU’RE an expert,
buying antiques in China
An up-market department store in Zhaoqing, Guangdong is a rather risky proposition.

DEPARTMENT STORES & MARKETS Many Chinese cities have

BOUTIQUES flourishing antiques markets,

but most of the items on sale

THE CONSUMER revolution in THE BEST WAY to experience will undoubtedly be fake.
China has led to the mush- China’s diversity and its However, as long as you
many ethnic cultures is to don’t mistake them for the

rooming of up-market depart- visit the bustling local real thing, it is fun to browse

ment stores, shopping plazas, markets, especially in and bargain for cheap repli-

and fashion boutiques in most rural areas. Held on cas. The state run antique

cities, especially Beijing and specific days of the shops, like the

Shanghai. In Beijing, the week, these are Friendship Stores,

towering presence of these locally known as are in decline –

stores has resulted in there ganji, which and never had any

being fewer street bazaars means “going bargains anyway.

and night markets, which are to market,” or Shops in the foyers

popular across China for their gangai, mean- of art galleries and

range of inexpensive goods. ing “going to Selling carpets at a market museums also sell

As in most developed coun- the street.” in Linxia, Gansu works of art such

tries, there is heavy emphasis Traditionally, as scroll paintings,

on high-end items such as people from the surrounding calligraphy, and attractive silk

designer fashion, perfumes, countryside came into town scarves. In China, objects dat-

jewelry, and watches, while on market days to buy or sell ing to 1795 or earlier may not

supermarkets, such as the their farm produce. Nowa- be legally exported, so make

French chain Carrefour, offer days however, rural markets sure any antiques (of a later

a range of foods, souvenirs, are expanding their scope, date) that you purchase carry

and household goods at rea- and it is not uncommon to a red wax seal permitting

sonable prices. Although some see stalls selling a range of export. Always keep the

are independent, most depart- household items from receipts as they may be

ment stores are state-run. toothbrushes to woks and required at Customs.

GOVERNMENT SHOPS

SPECIAL SHOPS for visitors, A souvenir shop in Qingcheng Shan park near Chengdu
referred to as Friendship
Stores, are a legacy from the
days of Chairman Mao. These
shops originally sold luxuries
and quality Chinese crafts to
diplomats and intrepid tourists,
but not to the Chinese. These
days only a few outlets remain,
selling local products such as
tea, silk, jade, calligraphy, and
Miao embroidery. Facing fierce
competition from the myriad
of private shops, the stores
struggle to compete on price or
quality. English literature and
magazines are sometimes
available in these stores.

600 T R AV E L E R S ’ N E E D S

What to Buy in China

MARKET STALLS AND SMALL SHOPS sell interesting A collection of Mao statuettes
souvenirs in tourist centers throughout in many different poses
China. Traditionally styled items can be
found just about everywhere, while many other
crafts are regional. You can find beautifully
Opera intricate embroidery in the southwest, prayer
mask wheels and flags in Tibet, carpets in Xinjiang,
and ginseng in the northeast. When shopping in markets
it is essential to bargain. Friendship stores and gift shops
at factories usually have fixed, but inflated, prices.

CALLIGRAPHY

A skill as revered as painting, calligraphy is an
ancient Chinese art that is a fluid form of self-
expression. Master calligraphers practice their art
assiduously, and one of their works could be
very expensive. Less costly examples of

calligraphy are widely available.

Scrolls painted with elegantly Marble chops are traditionally used to
striking script make excellent imprint a calligrapher’s seal on to a work.
souvenirs. Skilled calligraphers At many craft markets vendors create
will paint chosen sayings in personalized chops by carving a character
different styles or you can version of a person’s name on the base.
purchase pre-painted works.
Ink stick
Lid of ink
stone

Writing
brush

Base of
ink stone

Writing Painted on paper or silk with
brushes should simple brushstrokes, painting is
have a defined tip and one of the most important tradi-
firm fur bristles. Ink sticks tional arts. Many paintings now
made of soot are ground have contemporary touches.
down and mixed with water
Yixingware, or purple sand
on an ink stone. pottery from Ding Shan in
Anhui (see p218), is usually a
CERAMICS dark reddish brown, but can
also be green, buff, or gray.
Chinese ceramics are known the world
over. They have been mass produced
for hundreds of years, with fired pots
being passed through a line of artisans,
each adding a layer to the glaze. Por-
celain, a fine, translucent ceramic, was
invented during the Sui dynasty, and
high quality pieces are still produced.

Jingdezhen in Jiangxi has been
one of the main producers of

porcelain since the 10th century
(see pp254–5). It still produces fine
pieces, although some of the cheaper

wares may be decorated by stencil.

SHOPS & MARKETS 601

SILK

Woven from the strands that make up a silk worm’s
cocoon, silk is also a Chinese invention (see
pp208–9). Clothes made of silk, such as ladies’
cheongsams, are widely available, but be aware
that silk sold in markets is likely to be rayon.
Beautiful embroidery on silk is also available.

Silk embroidered Silk bags Silk-covered
coasters cushions

OTHER TRADITIONAL HANDICRAFTS Jade, a semi-precious
stone, is associated with
Occasionally created by skilled craftsmen but immortality. These pen-
often mass produced, Chinese handicrafts are dants are green, but the
almost always highly intricate and of vibrant
color. The variety of goods on offer is staggering, lustrous gem can also
from delicate miniature glass bottles to the be gray or brown.
bold graphics of communist memorabilia.

The best paper cuts are made in a
few minutes by a master craftsman
with a pair of scissors. Most paper
cuts are mass produced, with many
simultaneously cut to a pattern.

Lacquerware Decorative Cloisonné vases, boxes,
jewelry box tassel and jars have been
copper-enamelled:
Carved Mao lighter copper is faced
Glass snuff bottles wooden
were popularized dur- fan with pieces of col-
ing the Qing dynasty, ored enamel and
when snuff usage fired, creating a
was common. Using
a hooked brush, arti- shiny finish.
sans paint miniature
scenes inside. Baoding balls are weight-
ed and sometimes contain
Mao memorabilia is based a chime. The two balls are
on designs that existed maneuvered in one hand,
during Mao’s rule. Some strengthening grip and massaging the
is authentic, channels through which qi runs (see p232).
but most
communist Tea, often sold in colorful
souvenirs are tin caddies, is available
produced for everywhere. Tie guanyin
the tourist market. and other oolong teas of
Fujian are very fine. Pu’er is
Mao badges a specialty of the southwest.

602 T R AV E L E R S ’ N E E D S

ENTERTAINMENT

THE CHINESE work hard, but and rock concerts. Karaoke is hugely
they also take their leisure popular, and most towns and cities
seriously, and have a range have numerous bars, where visitors

of traditional and modern enter- can sing along to popular Chinese

tainment. The vast tradition of and Western songs, accompanied

performing arts reflects China’s rich by the latest videos. The popularity

cultural heritage, and includes and increasing availability of the

Chinese opera, theater, shadow internet has opened up new

puppetry, and the circus. Many avenues for on-line entertain-

types of dance and music derive Traditional ment, and China’s youth now
from ethnic cultures, adding to dancer posing spend many hours at internet

the diversity of entertainment. As cafés. Casino gambling is only

China has opened to the West, young permitted in the specially administered

people in particular have been able to region of Macau, and horse racing is

enjoy contemporary films, and classical popular in Hong Kong (see p332).

popular in cities. Traditional
martial arts such as tai ji
quan are popular amongst
the older generation, and
people practice early in the
morning in parks, squares,
and gardens.

TRADITIONAL FORMS OF
THEATER

BEIJING OPERA (jingju) is a
world famous traditional
art form unique to China (see

Passing the time with a game of xiangqi on the sidewalks of Xi’an pp74–5). It is highly stylized,

GAMES and characters wear elaborate

sets of round counters. The costumes with special make-

board is divided into squares up and masks. Performances

PLAYING GAMES in public by nine vertical and ten usually take place on a simple
parks is a timeworn horizontal lines. The board stage with few props.

Chinese custom, and though game Go (weiqi) dates back The Chinese circus has a

visitors may feel too inhibited more than 4,000 years. Also worldwide reputation for its

to challenge locals to a game, known as encirclement chess, highly-trained gymnasts who

they are great fun to watch. it involves two opposing perform breathtaking routines

Some Chinese games date sides, each with a set of that showcase their unnerving

back thousands of years. The circular stones, struggling flexibility. Displays of balance

most well-known game is for territory.

mahjong, which uses plastic SPECTATOR SPORTS

tiles, originally made of

bamboo or ivory. The rules

Tare similar to rummy, with HE MOST POPULAR sports
at schools and
players trying to create identi-
cal, or consecutively num- colleges are basketball,

bered, sets. More advanced badminton, and table

versions of the game have tennis (ping pong), and

special tiles representing the the Chinese excel

four winds, four dragons, internationally in the

seasons, and flowers. When a latter two. Soccer is also

game is in full swing, the played and followed with

quick movements of the par- enthusiasm. The top

ticipants make the tiles click European clubs have a

and clatter – a popular strong fan-base in China,

translation of mahjong is and Chinese soccer

“chattering sparrows.” players are now being

Chinese checkers (xiangqi) recruited by them. Fitness

is another popular game. centers and gyms are Actors in a Beijing opera, performing

Here, there are two opposing becoming increasingly in opulent costumes

E N T E R TA I N M E N T 603

often involve household very popular with expats,

props, such as brooms, foreign visitors, and urban

plates, and chairs, with one Chinese – be warned that

of the most popular tricks drinks are expensive. Coffee

being performed by 20 or so bars are also increasingly

acrobats piled precariously popular with young people,

on a bicycle. These routines although the older generation

are often combined with acts remain faithful to their green

involving caged and tame tea and traditional teahouses.

animals, but the current ROCK & POP MUSIC

trend is toward a purer

display of acrobatics.

Some forms of traditional CHINA’S ROCK scene is
dance still exist, especially bursting with energy.

among China’s ethnic groups. Young and rebellious, it only

Some relate to shamanistic or really gained a foot hold

other religious rituals, and during the 1980s, and played

often involve the wearing of Crowds enjoying the many bars a central role at the Tian’an

special masks. along Lan Kwai Fong, Hong Kong Men Square protests, during

SHADOW PLAYS & which many local bands

PUPPET THEATER bamboo is popularly used in played. Still not accepted by

folk music. The sheng, one of state-run radio stations, most

the oldest Chinese instru- bands rely on the internet

SHADOW plays (piyingxi) are ments, has up to 17 bamboo and word of mouth to fill
popular, and usually pipes and a vibrating reed. their small capacity shows.

involve the use of leather Another ancient instrument is Canto-pop, Hong Kong’s

puppets with jointed limbs. the earthenware xun. Dating popular music tradition, has

These are manipulated close back 8,000 years, and some- sugary lyrics of love and loss,

to a white sheet and lit from times made of bone or ivory, sung in Cantonese. Many

behind, throwing their it has a mouthpiece Canto-pop singers become

shadows on to the sheet. The and a series of holes hugely popular pin-ups.

performance is accompanied for varying the
tones. Percussion CINEMA
by singing and music. Plays

with wooden puppets instruments include

(mu’ouxi) involve gongs, chimes, CHINA HAS traditionally
elaborate and colorfully drums, woodblocks, produced many good

dressed marionettes, glove and xylophones. films, based mainly on folk

puppets, or puppets on KITE FLYING tales, romantic love stories, or

the end of rods. strong patriotic themes. More

TRADITIONAL recently, Chinese cinema has
MUSIC
KITE FLYING is a opened up to embrace interna-
major hobby tional tastes, and movies such
in China, especial- as Zhang Yimou’s extremely

CHINESE MUSIC can be ly on public holi- popular Hero, released in
traced back as far days when parks, 2004, blended martial arts

as the Shang era. A musician strums gardens, and even with impressive special

Ancient sets of 65 the lute-like pipa city squares are effects. Apart from Hong

bells from the 5th crowded with Kong, there are few places

century BC have been displays of colorful and in China that show movies

unearthed. During the Tang fantastically-shaped kites, in English or with subtitles.

dynasty, the traditional musical soaring to consider-

forms began to take root and able heights. Birds

music was also an important and dragons are

part of Confucian education. the most common

Traditional instruments kite designs.

include strings, winds, and
percussion. String instruments BARS, DISCOS &
played with the fingers, plec- KARAOKE

trum, or bow are the Chinese

Iviolin, horizontal harp, and N RECENT YEARS, bars,
discos, and karaoke
many-stringed zithers, such as
the zheng. The lute-like pipa lounges have sprung

is one of the most important up all over China,

stringed instruments. The especially in big cities

most common bamboo flutes such as Beijing and

are the vertical (xiao) and Shanghai. Some bars

horizontal (di). The hulusu specialize in live Delicate kites for sale catching the breeze

made from a gourd and bands, and these are from the Yangzi, Wuhan

604 T R AV E L E R S ’ N E E D S

SPORTS &
SPECIALIST HOLIDAYS

AS OLYMPIC HOST for 2008, golf, rock climbing, and more.
Beijing is the showpiece Courses in martial arts can be
city for a nation that cele- found in most tourists centers,

brates sporting heroes with the or head to the hallowed halls of

fervor once reserved for political the Shaolin Temple to find a mas-

icons – soccer and basketball Flowers in ter. Organized tours ply the major
have become big spectator bloom sights of the country, but for a

sports. The spending power and leisure really memorable experience consider

interests of China’s booming middle booking a trip that has a fascinating

classes translate into more sporting focus, whether photography, whitewater

choices for visitors too – there’s skiing, rafting, costume, or horse trekking.

THE OLYMPIC GAMES into problems with sponsor- GOLF
ship recently. Basketball is
THE GREATEST SHOW on earth also gaining in popularity and GOLF GROWS IN popularity
will be hosted by Beijing its profile has been boosted in China, despite initial
in August 2008. Expectations by Chinese NBA stars such as Communist Party reluctance
are high, and many Chinese the towering Yao Ming. to embrace this elitist, land-
fully expect to reach the top hungry sport. Visiting golfers
of the medals table. The The annual Rugby Sevens can enjoy over 200 courses
Games of the 29th Olympiad tournament in March is a nationwide. Mission Hills
are making a dramatic impact massive – and very rowdy – in Shenzhen with 10 separate
on the capital, with ambi- event in Hong Kong, with courses holds the Guinness
tiously scheduled infrastruc- international teams playing record for the largest; while
ture improvements and almost 70 games over three the course on Jade Dragon
massive construction projects. days. The Hong Kong Rugby Snow Mountain near Lijiang,
Beijing has promised “Green Football Union plays regular Yunnan, is one of the world’s
Olympics, Hi-tech Olympics, fixtures during the rugby highest. Perhaps the most
People’s Olympics,” so season, which runs from alluring is the beautiful Spring
visitors should enjoy acres of November through March. City course near Kunming.
parkland, futuristic stadiums, Most courses are open to the
and an army of English- Shanghai hosted the public, and prices are similar
speaking volunteers. Half of Formula One Grand Prix to those in Western countries.
the main Olympic Park area, for the first time in 2004.
at the apex of an extended Tickets are expensive, but the SWIMMING
imperial axis running north- track is top-of-the-line, with
south through the city, will be 80 percent of the circuit CHINA HAS PLENTY of coast-
turned into woodland and visible from the stands. line but lacks the beach
lawns. Outside Beijing, sailing culture of its southeast Asian
will take place in the eastern For a stronger Chinese flavor, neighbors. However, Hainan
port of Qingdao, and soccer track down the quadrennial Island is touted as China’s
preliminaries will be held in Minority Nationalities Tradi- Hawaii, and the resorts there
Shanghai and elsewhere. tional Sports Games (next are improving fast, while
stop: September 2007), when Beihai in Guangxi boasts a
SPECTATOR SPORTS ethnic groups play unusual
sports from dragon boat
racing to elephant tug-of-war.

CHINA HAS gone soccer-mad. Horse trek up the steep sides of Tiger Leaping Gorge, Yunnan
Although ancient records
describe a game of kick-ball
with three players on each
side, and paintings show a
Song emperor juggling a ball
with his feet, soccer is a
recent phenomenon here.
The Chinese Professional
Soccer League was estab-
lished in 1994, and the China
Super League, an elite group
of teams, kicked off in 2004.
The Super League has a
massive fan base, but has run

SPOR TS & SPECIALIST HOLIDAYS 605

Traversing the sand dunes of Mingsha Shan by camel, near Dunhuang, Gansu

very long stretch of sand. which can sometimes add a itineraries that cover Yunnan

Closer to the capital, enjoy sizeable unexpected cost to and Tibet, and also organizes

Beidaihe, long the Communist your trip. Also query the horse trekking. Wild China is

Party’s summer retreat, or frequency of shopping stops, strong on southwest China,

the seashores of the lovely the bane of all organized trips organizing trips to remote

city of Qingdao. in China. These detours (from Tibetan monasteries in west-

DOWNHILL SKIING which your guide may be ern Sichuan and through the

earning a commission) can cut dense jungle and rural

sightseeing time short and will hamlets of Xishuangbanna.

FOLLOWING in the tracks of become increasingly boring. TRAIN SPOTTING
Japan and Korea, the There’s a wide choice of

Chinese are discovering the tour companies to travel with.

thrill of downhill skiing. The Abercrombie and Kent is WITH SUCH AN EXTENSIVE rail
network, China has been
best natural snow and ski an established international

resorts lie in Heilongjiang group, which has provided a favorite destination of train

and Jilin provinces. Yabuli, well-organized trips for lovers for years, particularly

about 100 miles (160 km) decades. Steppes East, which as it has continued to run

from Harbin, is one of the is particularly strong on the steam locomotives well after

most established resorts. In Silk Routes and Tibet, pro- other nations have discontin-

the Beijing suburbs at least vides suggested itineraries ued their use. Sadly, the last

10 slopes, mostly with man- that it is happy to adapt. The line to run steam, the Jitong

made snow, attract skiers, company also organizes railway, which crosses the

and Shanghai has one of the special interest tours, such as Jinpeng Pass in Inner Mon-

world’s largest indoor facili- those that seek out the golia, is currently scrapping its

ties. Large feet may cause intricate embroidery and remaining steam locomotives.

problems with equipment beautiful textiles of Tibet and However, tours to highly indus-

rentals, and watch your back Guangxi. Mongol Global trialized areas will certainly

– complete novices abound. Tours organizes trips focus- continue to run, as many

CHOOSING A TOUR ing on costumes and special private lines at mining pits still

itineraries for photographers. use steam. Train spotters have

Myths and Mountains has a strong internet presence –

AMULTITUDE of tour some well thought-out check the web for details.
companies
ferry groups of

photo-snapping

tourists through the

top sights of China.

If you are thinking

of booking a tour,

do your research

carefully; it is

essential to find one

that suits you well.

Beyond the obvious

essentials of types

of accommodation,

transport, the size

of the group, and

the itinerary, be

sure to ask about

the tipping policy, Boarding a traditional raft kept afloat by inflated sheep stomachs, Yellow River

606 T R AV E L E R S ’ N E E D S

Hot air balloon floating amongst the karst peaks of Yangshuo, Guangxi such as Yangshuo, Dali, or
Lijiang, and you are certain
CYCLING Bodhidarma is said to have to find capable instruction in
first taught the monks exer- English. Of course, you can
ALTHOUGH THE CURSE of the cises that developed into always try joining the leagues
automobile threatens the shaolin quan during the 6th of kung fu practitioners at
bicycle kingdom, China re- century. The temple is sur- daybreak in the nation’s
mains a great place to saddle rounded by kung fu schools, parks, particularly if your
up. You will see more from a which have courses that interest is tai ji quan.
bike than a bus, and gain range from a week to six
greater insight into the lives months or longer. The less If you want to fight with
of the locals. A well-organized well-known monastery on more than your bare hands,
tour should provide alterna- Wudang Shan in Hubei (see paintballing is growing in
tive transport if you become p272), said to be the home of popularity – try the listings
exhausted or fall ill, and will tai ji quan, also has schools magazines in the large cities.
have all the fix-it gear and of martial arts. For those who really need
able mechanics to deal with to let off steam, anti-aircraft
problem chains and derailers. Most forms of kung fu guns and AK-47s are available
Itineraries are set at different taught in China are watered- for venting at the firing range
levels, from easy to challeng- down versions of the original en route from Beijing to the
ing, and some companies martial forms, which have Great Wall at Badaling.
provide bikes, while others become popular and effective
ask that you bring your own ways to keep fit. If you are CLIMBING
wheels to keep costs down. looking for pure fighting
For biking tours, consider technique, you may have MOST OF CHINA’S sacred and
specialist operators like Bike more luck overseas, or scenic mountains, such
China Adventures, based in possibly, in Hong Kong. In as Tai Shan and Huang Shan,
Chengdu, or, for shorter Beijing, Shanghai, and other have steps, cable cars, and
weekend trips near Beijing, big cities, courses are adver- crowds all the way to the sum-
contact Cycle China. tized in listings magazines, mit. Some of the mountains
but although there are plenty have less-used paths that make
In rural areas, renting a bike of sports institutes in China for pleasant hiking, but if you
for a day or two is the best with classes, you may have are a serious mountaineer, you
way to see sights just outside difficulty finding an English- will need to head to western
of town and get a feel for speaking instructor. Head to China. The true roof of the
countryside life. There are one of the traveler havens, world awaits in Tibet – topping
plenty of bike-hire shops in Mount Everest will require
most places, and many hotels patience and official approval,
can also arrange bike rental. but treks to Everest base
In cities remember to park in camp in the Rongbuk Valley
designated areas (retain the are offered by several travel
token) and keep to cycle operators. Other spectacular
lanes where possible. climbs include Gongga Shan
in Sichuan and also Muztagh-
ata in Xinjiang (an easier climb
and you can ski down), but,
again, seek permission first.

More feasible is rock climb-
ing at Yangshuo in Guangxi,
where the limestone crags
that inspired poets down the
centuries now inspire climb-
ers up the peaks. Asia’s fastest

MARTIAL ARTS

CHINA ATTRACTS thousands A class of soon-to-be kung fu masters, Shaolin Temple, Henan
of martial arts enthusiasts
hoping to find the roots to
their practice. Many head for
famous Shaolin Temple in
Henan (see p158), where

SPOR TS & SPECIALIST HOLIDAYS 607

monasteries. Horse- WILDLIFE & BIRD-

riding trips are WATCHING

possible in the SPOT A PANDA at the Wolong
Nature Reserve (see p369)
heavenly mountains or in the Breeding Center (see
p360), where efforts are made
of Xinjiang and the to conserve the threatened
species. Bird-watching tours
national parks of head to Qinghai province for
Bird Island on Qinghai Hu
Sichuan. Check (see p499), and to parks such
as Zhalong National Reserve
with specialist tour (see p452), in the northeastern
province of Heilongjiang,
companies and the where the largest wetland
ecological region in China
Northwest Yun- hosts over 300 bird species.

nan Ecotourism China’s environment was
savaged in the 20th century
Panda at the Breeding Center near Chengdu Association. by political campaigns to move
mountains with manpower; in
Whitewater rafting the 21st, rampant economic
growth threatens both biodi-
developing sport climbing trips are popular in the south- versity and cultural diversity,
and conservation efforts are
area combines a wide range west and in Tibet. If you are growing to save China’s unique
wildlife and ways of life. To
of climbs with beautiful thinking of signing up, check support a responsible approach
to tourism and the environ-
views, winding rivers and the comapny’s credentials and ment, consider tours and eco-
lodges offered by organizations
great accommodations. past history, and ensure that such as the Northwest Yunnan
Ecotourism Association, based
A few intrepid spelunkers high-quality helmets, life- near Lijiang in Yunnan.

have been exploring the jackets, and, if necessary,

extensive karst cave network wetsuits are provided.

of Guangxi. A small industry Camping independently

of caving tours has developed, in China is tricky, and not

although, for the most part, recommended. However, the

the itineraries are geared to lack of legal camping facilities

the experienced spelunker. may be about to change,

TREKKING & CAMPING because caravan culture has

just reached China. RVing is

still in its birthing stages and as

THE FASCINATING southwest the industry develops, trailer
offers some of the best parks and camp grounds are

trekking possibilities in the certain to appear. Restrictions

country, such as exploring the on foreign drivers mean that

jungle of Xishuangbanna or motorhoming is not yet an

visiting remote Tibetan option for non-residents.

DIRECTORY Spring City Mongol Global www.steppeseast.co.uk
SPORTS Tours
Tangchi, Yilang,
2008 Olympics Yunnan, PRC 652103. 4141 Ball Road, no. 187.
§ (0871) 767 1188. Cypress,
∑ www.beijing-2008.org ∑ www.springcity California,
resort.com USA 90630.
Basketball § (714) 220 2579.
DOWNHILL SKIING ` (714) 276-6447.
∑ www.asia-basket.com ∑ www.mongolglobal
Yabuli tours.com
Formula One
100 miles (160 km) east of Myths & Mountains
∑ www.icsh.sh.cn/en Harbin, Heilongjiang.
∑ www.yabuliski.com 976 Tree Court,
Rugby Incline Village,
TOUR COMPANIES Nevada
∑ www.hkrugby.com USA 89451.
Abercrombie & § 1-800 670 MYTH.
Soccer Kent ` (775) 832 4454.
∑ www.journeysto
∑ www.sinosoc.com ∑ www.abercrombie china.com
kent.com
GOLF In the US: Steppes East
1520 Kensington Road,
Mission Hills Suite 212, Oak Brook, 51 Castle Street,
IL 60523-2156. Cirencester,
1 Mission Hills Road, § 1-800 554 7016. Gloucestershire,
Shenzhen, In the UK: UK GL7 1QD.
PRC 518110. Sloane Square House, § (01285) 651 010.
§ (0755) 2802 0888. Holbein Place, London, ` (01285) 885 888.
` (0755) 2801 0713. SW1W 8NS. ∑
∑ www.missionhills § (0845) 070 0615.
group.com



S U R V I VA L
GUIDE

PRACTICAL INFORMATION 610–623
TRAVEL INFORMATION 624–633

610 S U RV I VA L G U I D E

PRACTICAL INFORMATION

CHINA IS CURRENTLY going guidance. In the larger cities the
through an explosion in tourist infrastructure, includ-
both international and ing transportation, hotels, and

domestic tourism. While there restaurants, is on a par with

have been gradual improve- international standards. The

ments in the quality of remoter areas, however,

tourist services, some of the Symbol of the China provide fairly basic accommo-
Tourist Board
remoter sights can still be dations and may not be
difficult to reach indepen- equipped to cater to the needs

dently, and most accessible sights get of the international tourist. Communi-

very crowded, especially during the cation also poses difficulties, as

summer season. Due to the absence English is not spoken widely and its

of a nationwide non-profit network of usage is generally restricted to tour

tourist information centers, visitors groups, four- and five-star hotels, and

often have to rely on hotels for restaurants catering to tourists.

WHEN TO GO half of China will be traveling ADVANCE BOOKING
as well. Tourist sights are
ALTHOUGH THERE are great swamped with local sight- ADVANCE BOOKING of hotel
climatic disparities within seers, and most hotels and rooms is only necessary
China, spring and fall are guesthouses raise their rates. during the peak holiday
generally the best months periods between May 1 and
to travel. The peak tourist WHAT TO TAKE October 1, and perhaps dur-
season, however, is during ing the Chinese New Year.
summer (June to September), THE CLOTHES you need will Nonetheless, booking in
best avoided if you don’t like depend on the time of advance using the internet
the heat – it is baking hot in year that you visit. In north- can secure you good deals on
North China, steamy in the ern China, from November accommodations. Unless
Yangzi region, and sweltering until March, you will require traveling on short intercity
in South China. Winter is a down jacket, gloves, sweater, routes, train tickets should be
fiercely cold in North China, warm socks, thermal leggings, bought a few days before
particularly in the northeast. sturdy footwear, and lip balm. travel, as seats can be in short
Winters in South China are During the same season in supply. Train tickets can only
more pleasant, especially on the south, you still need a be purchased up to five days
the perennially warm Hainan sweater and warm clothes, in advance of the day of
Island and parts of Yunnan even as far south as Hong travel. Bus and air tickets
province. Climate and rainfall Kong. In summer, across need not be booked in
charts are found on pages most of China, you only need advance, although airplane
48–9. Planning a trip to loose-fitting shirts or t-shirts, tickets can become scarcer
coincide with the holiday and and thin trousers. Shorts will during major holiday periods.
festival periods (see pp44–7) also do, though not many
can lead to a fun and colorful Chinese wear them. Bring a VISAS & PASSPORTS
trip experiencing China at its first-aid kit (see p618), rain-
liveliest. However, tickets for coat, sun hat, deodorant, APASSPORT, valid for at least
air, train, and bus transport can pocket knife, flashlight, and six months, and a visa
be very difficult to acquire, as some good reading material. are necessary to enter the
People’s Republic of China.
Temperate weather at a tea garden in Chengdu However, most foreign
Scores of cyclists pedaling through Beijing nationals don’t require a visa
for entering Hong Kong and
Macau. Chinese embassies
and consulates around the
world issue a standard single-
entry, 30-day visa, although
multiple-entry visas, and 60-
day and 90-day visas can also
be obtained. In general, visas
cannot be issued at the bor-
der. When completing the
visa application form, you
must clearly specify what
parts of China you plan to
visit. Avoid mentioning Tibet,

PRACTICAL INFORMATION 611

or Xinjiang, even if you plan CUSTOMS INFORMATION DIRECTORY

to visit these regions, as you

Wmay be questioned about HEN ENTERING China, CHINA INTERNATIONAL
visitors are entitled to TRAVEL SERVICE
your occupation and intent of
visit – the list you provide is a duty-free allowance of 70
fluid ounces (2 liters) of wine (CITS)
non-binding. Always carry

your passport, as it is an or spirits, 400 cigarettes, and

essential document for check- a certain amount of gold and ∑ www.cits.net

ing into hotels, and the Public silver. Foreign currency Beijing
Security Bureau (see p616) exceeding US$5000, or its
may insist on seeing it. equivalent, must be declared. 28 Jianguo Men Wai Jie.
Photocopying the visa § (010) 6515 8587.
Items that are prohib-

page and the personal ited include fresh fruit, Dalian
information page will rare animals and plants,
speed up replacement and arms and ammuni- Central Plaza Hotel,
in case your passport tion. Chinese law
is lost or stolen. Visa specifies limits on the 145 Zhongshan Lu.
§ (0411) 8368 7843.

extensions are export of certain items, Guangzhou

sometimes granted such as herbal medi- 185 Huanshi Xi Lu.

for 30 days by the Shang-dynasty cines. Also, objects § (020) 8666 6889.

foreign affairs branch bronze tripod predating 1795 cannot
be taken out of China, Shanghai
of local PSBs

throughout the country. Note while antiques made after that 1277 Beijing Xi Lu.
that heavy fines are levied if date will need to have an § (021) 6289 8899.

you overstay your permitted official seal affixed. Although Suzhou
period in China. foreign visitors are largely left
alone, it is not advisable to 251 Ganjiang Xi Lu.
PERMITS take in politically controversial § (0512) 6515 1369.

TRAVELERS WILL FIND that most literature, especially to sensi- Xi’an
of China is accessible. tive areas such as Tibet where
However, areas that are either there have been instances of 50 Chang’an Bei Lu.
books being confiscated. § (029) 8524 1864.

totally or partially off-limits, IMMUNIZATION

and may require a permit cover the loss of baggage,

from the PSB, include Lushun tickets, and, to a certain extent,

(Liaoning), Xanadu (Inner ENSURE THAT all of your rou- cash and checks. However,
Mongolia), and parts of tine vaccinations are up to before signing an insurance

Shennongjia (Hubei). It is date, such as tetanus and polio. policy, look for one that ex-

recommended to check with It is advisable to also get vac- cludes coverages you will not

the PSB before setting out to cinated against Hepatitis A and require during your stay in

western Sichuan, where the B, and typhoid. Only visitors China. Insurance is also essen-

rules of access are not yet traveling from countries where tial to cover any adventure

fixed. In Tibet, traveling yellow fever is endemic must activity or sport that you may

outside Lhasa prefecture provide proof of vaccination undertake during your trip.

requires a Tibetan Tourism against the disease.

Bureau (TTB) permit as well Malaria medication is a

as a separate travel permit. good idea for those

EMBASSIES & visiting rural areas,

CONSULATES especially Yunnan and

Hainan, as is a Japanese

encephalitis vaccination.

MOST COUNTRIES have Try www.mdtravehealth.
embassies in Beijing com for up-to-date

and consulates in Hong Kong, travel-health information

Shanghai, and Guangzhou, and more advice on

and to a lesser extent, in immunization.

Chengdu, Chongqing, Qing- INSURANCE

dao, and Dalian. Consular

offices can re-issue passports

and assist in case of emer- IT IS ADVISABLE to take
gencies, such as theft, impri- out an insurance poli-

sonment, and hospitalization. cy for medical emergen-

Your hotel can put you in cies as well as theft

touch with your embassy before leaving home,

or consulate, or you can checking with your

consult the Travel China insurance company that

Guide website it is entirely valid in Classic tai hu rock formations lining the

(www.travelchinaguide.com). China. The policy will shore in Yu Yuan (Jade Garden), Shanghai

612 S U RV I VA L G U I D E

TOURIST INFORMATION or less discontinued, you may LANGUAGE

still encounter a foreign
ITH THE EXCEPTION of the visitor surcharge. Most sights,
HE OFFICIAL language of
W Tmajor cities, China has such as parks and temples, China is Putonghua

yet to recognize the value of simply have a main ticket for (literally “common tongue”),

professional Tourist Infor- entry (men piao), but further based on the dialect spoken

mation Centers, either at home tickets may need to be pur- in Beijing, and known outside

or abroad. Those that exist in chased for access to individ- China as Mandarin Chinese.

Beijing and Shanghai are often ual sights within the complex. Putonghua doesn’t specifically

under-funded, poorly staffed, Alternatively, a “through belong to any one region, and

and unreliable, although they ticket” (tao piao) can be is used across the country for

are useful for obtaining free bought for communica-

maps. The state-approved access to all tion between

China International Travel the sights. speakers of

Service (CITS) (see p611), Occasionally China’s num-

originally set up to cater to there are fur- erous dialects.

the needs of foreign visitors, ther fees for Road sign in both pinyin and Unlike other

today functions as any other storing bags. Chinese characters dialects, such

local operator, offering noth- The sale of as Cantonese,

ing more than tours, tickets, tickets often ceases half an Putonghua can be used

and rented cars. A limited hour or so before the sight throughout China. Since the

choice of government-run closes for the day. Guides vast majority of Chinese

travel agencies abroad swarm around entrances to people do not understand

promote China tourism. major sights and will latch English, it is largely useless

However, they fail to offer onto you, even if you’re not for communication outside of

professional and unbiased interested. It is advisable to hotels. The tonal nature of

advice, instead steering test their English first, as many Putonghua makes it difficult

customers toward group just repeat fixed lines, parrot for English speakers to become

tours and standard hotels. fashion, relating to the sight accustomed to the language.

ADMISSION CHARGES in question, and are unable Pinyin, a romanization sys-

to answer further queries. tem, helps in the recognition

HOLIDAYS & OPENING of sounds and has diacritical
HOURS
VIRTUALLY EVERY SIGHT in marks to indicate tone. A few
China carries an admis- basic phrases in Putonghua

sion fee. Most temples and are listed on pages 668–72.

Eparks, all museums, palaces,VEN THOUGH New Year’s Day FACILITIES FOR THE

historical monuments, sacred (January 1) is a public DISABLED

mountains, and wildlife holiday in China, the main

reserves can only be entered holiday periods are during the

after paying a fee. While Lunar New Year (Spring Fes- F YOU ARE A wheelchair
Itemples charge anything from tival), and the May 1 (Labor user, China is not a recom-

¥5 to ¥40, prices of all other Day) and October 1 (National mended destination for you.

entry tickets vary. It is often Day) holidays. Each holiday With the exception of Hong

hard to see where the money period officially lasts three Kong and, to some extent,

goes as many of China’s days, although most busines- Macau, China offers very

temples and monuments ses and banks remain shut for basic facilities for the dis-

appear severely neglected. seven days. Accommodation abled, both in public trans-

Until relatively recently, non- prices rise across the country port and accommodation.

Chinese visitors had to pay a as domestic tourism peaks. Public buildings and places of

higher charge, and although Tourist sights, however, remain interest are rarely fitted with

this practice has been more open during these times. ramps or rails. Many of the

pavements in urban areas are

littered with obstacles and

occasional potholes, and have

high curbs, making wheel-

chair access troublesome.

The scarcity of safe crossing

points on urban roads drives

pedestrians onto overhead

walkways; otherwise they

have to join the crowds

surging through the traffic.

Rooms with services for

disabled visitors are only

available at the better hotels,

although elevators are

common in most hotels over

Façade of the impressive Shaanxi History Museum, Xi’an three stories high.

PRACTICAL INFORMATION 613

FACILITIES FOR
CHILDREN

THE CHINESE love childen,
and they are usually
welcome everywhere in

China. Even though baby-

changing rooms are extremely

rare, and very few restaurants

have child seats, traveling

with very young children can

have its advantages as people

will generally go out of their

way to accommodate you in

most places and situations.

Supermarkets in towns are

well supplied with diapers, Children with their parents enjoying a meal

baby wipes, bottles, creams, find a sign with such restric- TIME & CALENDAR

medicine, clothing, infant

milk formula, and baby food. tions marked in English, it is

However, the baby food is of advisable to ask around. DESPITE ITS SIZE, China
a sweeter variety and nearly Photographing politically- occupies only one time

always processed. The Chinese sensitive images may result in zone, and there is no daylight

very rarely give pacifiers to the confiscation of your film saving time. Midday in Beijing

their children, but you can and it goes without saying is also midday in far-flung

find them in department that photography of military parts of China, including

stores in larger cities. Also sites is banned. As far as the Lhasa and Ürümqi, which are

bring a set of plastic cutlery regulations go, photography along the same latitude as

for your child, as some from aircrafts is banned, and countries that are two and

restaurants and eating places so is taking photographs of three hours behind China.

only have chopsticks. airports, harbors, and rail- China time is seven or eight

PHOTOGRAPHY roads. However, barring the hours ahead of Greenwich

military installations, most of Mean Time (GMT), two or

the other restrictions are three hours behind Australian

IT IS AS COMMON to see the seldom enforced. Eastern Standard Time, 15 or
16 hours ahead of US Pacific
Chinese with their cameras
as it is to find film-developing ELECTRICITY
Standard Time, and 12 or

stores in all major Chinese 13 hours ahead of US Eastern

Tcities and towns. While 35mm HE ELECTRICAL current in Standard Time. The Western
China is 220 volts. You Gregorian Calendar is used
color print film is available
almost everywhere, don’t will see a variety of plugs in for all official work, although

expect to find color slide or China, including two flat the lunar calendar is still

high-speed film outside prongs (the same as used for calculating the

of the large cities. American plugs), or dates of festivals.

Black-and-white film three flat prongs (the MEASUREMENTS &

can only be found in same as Australian CONVERSION CHARTS

specialty camera ones). The British

shops. Camera three square-pin

batteries are widely Plugs with two and arrangement is rare THE METRIC SYSTEM is most
available in depart- three prongs outside of smart commonly used in all
ment stores in big hotels, and it is parts of China.
cities, though it is therefore advisable

best to bring your own to carry a travel conversion Imperial to Metric

supply. Many photo stores in plug, readily available in 1 inch = 2.5 centimeters

Hong Kong, Macau, and most of the larger cities. A 1 foot = 30 centimeters

mainland China provide power-surge cable will protect 1 mile = 1.6 kilometers

transferring of images from a laptops against voltage fluc- 1 ounce = 28 grams

digital camera onto a disc. tuations, which are common 1 pound = 454 grams

Photographing people in in China. It is best to avoid 1 pint (US) = 0.473 liters

China is generally not a cheap batteries, as they are 1 gallon (US) = 3.785 liters

problem, but it helps to first very shortlived. Instead, buy a

ask for their permission. battery charger and recharge- Metric to Imperial

Photography is rarely allowed able batteries, which can be 1 centimeter = 0.4 inches

within temple halls and easily found in most Chinese 1 meter = 3 feet 3 inches

museums, or at archeological stores. Blackouts are not 1 kilometer = 0.6 miles

sites, and signs indicate unheard-of in China, so, 100 gram = 3.53 ounces

where photography is not given the erratic powercuts, 1 kilogram = 2.2 pounds

permitted. In case you don’t it is wise to carry a flashlight. 1 liter = 2.11 pints (US)

614 S U RV I VA L G U I D E

Etiquette On the beach, nudity and

women sunbathing topless are

DESPITE RAPID modernization, China remains a rarely seen as Chinese beach
traditional society governed by strong family culture is quite modest.

values. Although the cities and towns give the outward FACE
impression of Western modernity, their inhabitants

retain a deep-seated and family-oriented conservatism. RESERVED IN MANNER and
Confucian values promote respect for elders and those expression, the Chinese
in positions of authority, and reinforce notions of also harbor strong feelings of
conformity. Religious observance is also an important personal pride and respect.

part of people’s lives, but is largely separate from The maintenance of pride and

mainstream social behavior. The Chinese are, above the avoidance of shame is
all, welcoming and generous, and visitors are often known as saving face. Loss of
amazed at their hospitality. If invited to someone’s face (mianzi) creates great
home, a gift of chocolates, French wine, or a carton discomfort and embarrass-
of cigarettes will be greatly appreciated. ment for the Chinese, so
although you may often be

GREETING PEOPLE politely, using the fingertips frustrated by bureaucratic red-
tape and delays, remember that

of both hands, and receive arguing may make matters

WHILE SHAKING hands is not cards in the same manner. It worse. Instead, try tackling
customary in China, is a good idea to take some difficult situations by being

Chinese men may shake your business cards, with your firm but polite, and use con-

hand or expect their hand to particulars in Chinese on one frontation only as a last resort.

be shaken by foreign visitors. side and in English on the
Although the Chinese are not reverse, as there will be many PLACES OF WORSHIP

particularly tactile in their occasions to give them away.

greetings, bodily contact is BODY LANGUAGE ALTHOUGH THERE are
quite common between no dress codes for

friends, even of the same sex. Buddhist, Daoist, or

It is quite common to see ONCE THEY REACH Confucian temples,
young men walking arm in the age of 30 or visitors to mosques

arm, or with their arm around 40, the Chinese tend should dress respect-

another’s shoulder. The usual to dress conser- fully – avoid wearing

Chinese greeting is ni hao vatively, favoring shorts or short skirts –

(how are you?) or nimen hao dark and inconspic- and cover their upper

in its plural form, to which uous colors such as arms. Buddhist, Daoist,

you reply ni hao or nimen brown and black. In and Confucian temples

hao – the polite form is cities and towns, are relaxed about

nin/ninmen hao. Chinese people wear jeans, t- visitors wandering

people can be very direct, shirts, and skirts, and Advice for about, but do be

and will not blanch at asking many youngsters also burning incense considerate toward

you how much you earn, dye their hair. Locals worshipers. Also, check

how old you are, or whether expect foreign visitors to dress whether you can take photo-

you are married. Such ques- and behave a little flamboy- graphs within temple halls,

tions are seen as nothing antly, so don’t worry too much as this is often not permitted.

more than taking a friendly about what you wear, but try Taking photographs in court-

interest in a new acquaintance. to avoid looking scruffy. It is yards, however, is usually not

When proffering business also acceptable for both sexes a problem. Some Buddhist and

cards, the Chinese do so to wear shorts in hot weather. Daoist temples are active, and

you should show respect

towards the resident monks.

DO’S & DON’TS

The courtyard of the Jade Buddha Temple in Shanghai IF INVITED OUT for dinner,
expect to see the diners
competing to pay the entire
bill, rather than dividing it up
between them. It is a good
idea to join in the scramble
for the bill, or at least make
an attempt – your gesture will
be appreciated, though almost
certainly declined. The Chinese
avoid talking about politics,
and it is best to follow suit.

PRACTICAL INFORMATION 615

ANNOYANCES

THE CHINESE habit of staring,
especially in smaller towns
and rural areas, can be a little

annoying. However, the intent

is rarely hostile. Staring was

common even in Beijing until

the 1990s, and although it is

rare in cities today, it helps to

remember that China was

closed to foreign nationals

until the early 1980s.

Another annoyance that

visitors face in smaller towns

are the constant calls of

“Hellooo!” or laowai (foreign- Bric-à-brac to be haggled over on display at a street market in Tianjin

er). It is best to either ignore

them or smile, as saying hello during meals is totally accept- potential sale. The prices in

often results in bursts of laugh- able, especially if there are large shops and government

ter. In large cities, people other smokers present. The emporia (guoying shangdian)

often strike up conversation Chinese are very generous are usually fixed.

to practice their English. when it comes to offering
cigarettes, so remember to be TIPPING
Sometimes, art students try

and coerce you into visiting equally generous in return.

over-priced art galleries, They also enjoy drinking T IPPING IS VERY rare in
which you should firmly alcohol, and there is no China, Hong Kong, and

decline to do. taboo against moderate Macau, so there is no obliga-

Although line-ups are intoxication. The usual tion to leave a tip (xiaofei)

beginning to replace the accompaniment during a and people don’t usually

usual mêlée at ticket meal is beer (pijiu), or expect one. Some smarter

offices, be prepared white spirit (baijiu). restaurants include a service

for a lot of pushing People rarely drink charge on the bill.

and shoving. wine (putaojiu),
although it is available BEGGING
Since the outbreak

of SARS in 2002, public at restaurants serving

health organizations CWestern cuisine. If HINA’S imbalanced
have made consid- economic progress and
someone raises a toast
erable efforts to curb to you (ganbei!), it huge population of rural poor

the habit of spitting. A popular white is good form to toast have resulted in large num-

It is still widespread, spirit, or baijiu the person back at a bers of beggars all over the

however, especially later stage. country, especially in cities.

in rural areas. Spitting is Foreign visitors naturally attract
common on buses and trains, BARGAINING
their attention, and groups of

and it is not considered rude children are often sent by

to spit in mid-conversation, AS A FOREIGN NATIONAL in their parents to extract
so do not take offense. China, it is essential to money. The best strategy is to

SMOKING & ALCOHOL bargain (jiangjia). You may ignore them and walk away.

often be overcharged –

sometimes by large amounts

AS THE WORLD’S largest – in markets and anywhere
producer and consumer else where prices are not indi-

of cigarettes (xiangyan), cated. In some restaurants,

China is a smoker’s paradise. the English menu has more

Despite the appearance of expensive rates than the

no-smoking zones and Chinese one. You may be

rudimentary anti-smoking able to bargain to reduce

campaigns, towns and cities your hotel room-rate, especial-

remain shrouded in a haze of ly during the low season.

cigarette smoke. Smoking is When bargaining, there is

now banned on domestic no need to be aggressive.

flights and in train carriages Instead, firmly state your

(except in the corridors), but price – which should never

rural buses remain fumigated. be unrealistic – and walk

There are usually non-smok- away if the vendor doesn’t

ing floors in four- and five- agree. Shopkeepers will often

star hotels, but don’t expect agree to the price once they A beggar in Lhasa with colorful

any at cheaper hotels. Smoking realize they’re losing a Buddhist regalia

616 S U RV I VA L G U I D E

Personal Security & Health SECURITY

HE POLICE FORCE IN CHINA is called the Public Security VER SINCE THE 2001 terrorist
attacks in New York City,
T EBureau (gonganju), abbreviated to PSB. Foreign
nationals are unlikely to encounter the PSB, unless security has been tightened
extending their visa, applying for a permit to a restricted throughout China, especially
area, or reporting loss or theft. China is a police state, at airports and railway sta-
so the PSB is riddled with corruption and overwhelm- tions. At certain sights, you
ing bureaucracy. Not all police stations (paichusuo) have will be asked to deposit your
English-speaking staff, so try to take along an interpreter bag before making a visit.
Always carry your passport

if reporting a crime, although it is best to contact your with you for identification.

embassy or consulate first for guidance. Throughout WOMEN TRAVELERS
mainland China, call 110 for the Police. Protect your

valuables and important documents at all times, stay CHINA IS USUALLY regarded as
and eat in clean places, and drink only mineral water. a very safe destination for
For medical attention, it is better to opt for a private women. In general, Chinese
clinic rather than one of the many government hospitals. men are respectful toward

women, and it is unlikely for

unusual for things to go them to experience any

missing from hotel rooms. serious form of sexual harass-

You could use the safes ment. That said, never take

or storage areas that most your safety for granted, and

hotels offer, but do insist though independent travel is

on a receipt. If staying in safer in China than in many

a dormitory, never leave other countries, traveling in a

your essentials and group is always wiser, as lone

important documents travelers are more likely to be

lying around, and be mugged or assaulted. How-

cautious about giving ever, if you do travel alone,

too many details to stay on your guard when visit-

fellow travelers. ing rural and far-flung areas,

When walking in and avoid wandering about

crowded streets, avoid alone in quiet and deserted

wearing anything expen- places, especially after dark.

sive or eye-catching, and As far as clothing goes, it is

keep your wallet in the best to observe the clothing

bottom of your bag, but and behavior of local women,

never in a backpack. Be and adapt as closely as pos-

discreet when taking out sible. It helps to dress mod-

Crowds in the busy shopping district your wallet; it is best to estly, especially in Muslim

of Causeway Bay, Hong Kong carry only as much regions and rural areas.

cash as you need for If possible, avoid hotel
GENERAL PRECAUTIONS the day. Keep an eye on
dormitories and opt for

your belongings while single rooms in hotels

TRAVELING IN China is visiting public wash- located near the center
of town on well-lit
generally safe. Even though rooms, as quite a few

crime has burgeoned since travelers have had streets. To avert an

the 1980s economic liberal- very unpleasant undesirable encoun-

ization, with millions of experiences. ter, carry a whistle or

unemployed migrants flock- Keep cash, learn a few basic self-

ing to the cities, foreign traveler’s checks, defense moves.

visitors are unlikely to be the passport, and visa GAY AND LESBIAN

victims of crime, apart from documents in a money TRAVELERS

petty theft. Tourists on buses belt – ones that lie flat

and trains, particularly those and are meant to be

in the hard-seat class (see worn under clothing THE GAY AND lesbian
scenes in China’s
p629) and on overnight jour- are best. Also, remem-

neys, are tempting targets for ber to make photo- main cities, in particu-

thieves. Guard your camera copies of the personal lar Shanghai and Hong

and valuables, wear a money information and China Kong, are growing.

belt at all times, and secure visa pages of your However, China is still

your luggage to the rack on passport and any a highly conventional

overnight train journeys. other important society, and homo-

Hotels are, more or less, a documents and store sexuality is largely

lot more secure than dormi- them separately from Beijing PSB disapproved of and

tories, even though it is not the originals. officer misunderstood. In

PRACTICAL INFORMATION 617

2001, the Chinese Psychiatric better care. Whatever the type PUBLIC BATHROOMS

Society finally deleted homo- of institution, you will be

sexuality from its list of mental expected to pay cash at the PUBLIC BATHROOMS are
typically of the squat variety
disorders. Homosexuality is time of being admitted.

legal, but there are no laws to Pharmacies (yaodian), and are squalid, filthy, and

protect gays, and police identified by green rarely cleaned, unless watched

periodically crack down on crosses, are found all over by an atten-

meeting places. Even in cities, over China. Many of dant. There is

it is inadvisable for gays and them stock both Western little privacy –

lesbians to be open with their medicine (xi yao) and doorless cubi-

sexuality, despite the tactile re- Chinese medicine cles, separated by

lationship many Chinese have (zhong yao), and can Sign pointing the low walls, are the

with friends of the same sex. treat you for minor way to the facilities norm. Toilet paper

injuries or ailments. is a rarity – don’t
HOSPITALS & MEDICAL Take adequate supplies of
FACILITIES forget to carry your own

any prescription drugs you supply. Toilet paper should

require, and also remember to be put in the receptacle, if

IT IS IMPORTANT to take out take the chemical – not brand provided, rather than down
comprehensive medical – name of all prescriptions, in the toilet, as septic systems

insurance before arriving in case you need to restock. In are often unable to handle

China. China’s state hospitals large cities such as Beijing paper products. You will be

vary considerably in quality; and Shanghai, prescriptions expected to pay a few jiao for

the better-equipped hospitals may not be required for a using the facilities. Use hotel

(yiyuan) can be found in the range of medicines, including and fast-food restaurant

cities and large towns, but antibiotics and sleeping pills. bathrooms whenever you get

even at the best, Some large hotels the opportunity.

communication can have in-house HYGIENE TIPS

be problematic. clinics to help

Cities with large guests with

expatriate Tdiagnosis, medical HE RIGORS of travel require
communities have a few extra hygiene
assistance, and pre-
private hospitals, scriptions. Large considerations. Carry a small

where there are modern hotels may bar of handsoap or a tube of

exclusive clinics Distinctive green cross also be able to concentrated camping soap
with English-
of a pharmacy provide a Chinese with you all the time. A

speaking staff to speaker to accom- packet of wet wipes always

attend to non-Chinese visitors. pany you to the hospital. comes in handy.

Consider contacting your Those interested in traditional Warts are easily picked up

embassy for a list of approved Chinese medicine (see p232) from poorly cleaned shower

hospitals. In general, medical for treating chronic ailments stalls. You will often find a

services are reasonably cheap can visit the traditional insti- pair of flipflops under your

throughout China, but many tutes attached to local hospitals hotel bed. These are meant

hospitals may levy a certain and medical colleges. Some to be worn in the shower,

amount of “foreigner sur- hotels, too, offer traditional but you might consider

charge” that could ensure Chinese treatments. packing a pair of your own.

DIRECTORY International SOS, Shanghai Ireland

IN AN EMERGENCY Building C, BITIC Ying Yi New Pioneer International. 3 Ritan Dong Lu.
Medical Center (24-hrs), § (010) 6532 2691.
§ Police 110. Building, 1 Xingfu Sancun 2nd floor, Geru Building,
§ Fire 119. 910 Hengshan Lu. United Kingdom
§ Ambulance 120. Bei Jie, Chaoyang. § (021) 6469 3898.
11 Guanghua Lu.
HOSPITAL & MEDI- Clinic/dental appointments: § (010) 6532 1961.
CAL FACILITIES § (010) 6462 9112.
§ (010) 6462 9100 (24-hr). USA
Beijing
Guangzhou EMBASSIES IN 3 Xiushui Bei Jie.
Hong Kong International BEIJING § (010) 6532 3831.
Medical Clinic, 9th floor, Can-Am International Med-
Office Tower, Hong Kong ical Center, 5th fl, Garden Australia TRAVEL HEALTH
Macau Center, Swissotel, Tower, Garden Hotel,
2 Chaoyang Men Bei Dajie. 368 Huanshi Dong Lu. 21 Dongzhi Men Wai Masta
§ (010) 6501 4260. § (020) 8387 9057. Dajie.
∑ www.hkclinic.com § (010) 6532 2331. § (0113) 238 7575.
∑ www.masta.org
Hong Kong Canada
MD Travel Health
Queen Elizabeth Hospital, 19 Dongzhi Men Wai
∑ www.mdtravel
30 Gascoigne Rd, Dajie. health.com
§ (010) 6532 3536.
Yau Ma Tei.
§ (0852) 2958 8888.

618 S U RV I VA L G U I D E

STOMACH UPSETS &
DIARRHEA

Sitting in the shade at the Botanical Gardens, Hangzhou, Zhejiang USUALLY CAUSED by a change
of diet, water, and climate,
HEAT, HUMIDITY & extreme cold, and travelers diarrhea is common among
POLLUTION visitors. Chinese food, which
to Tibet and other mountain- can be quite oily and spicy,
does require some getting
ous regions must be prepared used to for many people. If
the change of diet is affecting
DURING SUMMER, IT IS HOT all for sudden changes in tem- you, stick to Western food
across China. If you’re perature. A waterproof and and simple boiled food, such
as plain rice, until the diarrhea
traveling during this time drink windproof layer is vital in subsides. Most importantly,
drink lots of fluids, as diarrhea
plenty of fluids to prevent cold conditions, as is ade- quickly leads to dehydration –
oral rehydration solution (ORS)
dehydration, and increase quate warm clothing, including is an effective remedy. If you
do not have any ORS, stir half
your intake of salt to compen- thick socks, boots, jacket, a teaspoon of salt and three
teaspoons of honey or sugar
sate its loss through sweating. gloves, and most importantly, into a mug of boiled water.

Wear loose-fitting cotton cloth- a hat. The symptoms of To decrease your chances
of stomach upset, avoid raw
ing and sandals, remember hypothermia, which include salads, cut fruit, cold cuts, road-
side kabobs, fresh juice, and
to bring a sunhat and shivering, dizziness, yogurt. It is important to
avoid drinking tap water even
sunglasses, and use exhaustion, and irrational in big cities, apart from Hong
Kong. Drink boiled water, or
plenty of sunscreen. behavior, are brought on bottled mineral water after
checking that the seal is intact.
Most hotels, except by prolonged exposure to Most international brands of
carbonated drinks are widely
the very cheapest, the cold. Be aware of available. Although street food
can look tempting, it is safer
have rooms fingers and toes going to abstain unless it is hot and
freshly cooked in front of you.
equipped with air white or numb, the
A good pharmacist can
conditioning, and first indications of recommend standard diarrhea
medication, such as Imodium,
virtually all frost bite, and rub though if the attack is severe,
it is best to consult a doctor. A
restaurants are air A motorcyclist wrapped them vigorously popular and effective Chinese
conditioned as well. up against pollution if they do. medicine for upset stomachs
is Huangliansu.
Prolonged
exposure to the sun can cause FIRST-AID KIT SARS & BIRD FLU

heat stroke, a serious condition IN SPRING 2003, severe acute
respiratory syndrome
Owith high body temperature, RGANIZE A BASIC first-aid kit, (SARS) spread throughout
which should include all China and then to Toronto,
severe headaches, and disori- Canada. China managed to
entation. To avoid heat rashes personal medication, aspirin contain the disease with a
strict identification and
and fungal infections caused or painkillers for fevers and quarantine program. Since
then, there have only been
by humidity, wear clean, minor aches and pains, tablets minor, localized outbreaks of
the disease. A previously
loose clothes made of natural for nausea and movement unknown virus, SARS attacks
the upper respiratory system
fibers, and open sandals. sickness, antiseptic cream for and results in fever, followed
by a dry cough and difficulty
Many of China’s cities, in- cuts and bites, an anti-fungal in breathing. Another SARS
outbreak is unlikely, but
cluding Beijing, experience ointment, Band-Aids, gauze should one occur, do not

chronic levels of atmospheric and tensor bandages, a pair

pollution. This aggravates of scissors, insect repellent,

chest infections, and asth- and tweezers. Also carry

matic travelers should always antihistamines for allergies,

carry their own medication. anti-diarrhea tablets, water

purification tablets, disposable
COLD & HYPOTHERMIA syringes, oral rehydration solu-

tion, and a thermometer. Tak-

WINTER CAN BE severe ing a supply of antibiotics is
through most of north a good idea. Most of these

China. High-altitude travel in items are readily available

particular can expose you to at Chinese pharmacies.

PRACTICAL INFORMATION 619

a new syringe in front of long period and likely to come

you. You may even want to into contact with animals. Do

bring your own disposable not have this vaccine, unless

syringe for the doctor to use. advised by your doctor.

Any procedure using needles, INSECT-BORNE DISEASES

such as tattooing or ear-

piercing, is best avoided.

WATER-BORNE DISEASES MOSQUITOS ARE RIFE during
the summer in China. In
the southern part of the

VISITORS MUST be on their country, mosquitos can carry
guard against dysentery. a number of diseases. If you

Bacillary dysentery is accom- are visiting an area with a

A food stall with a tempting but panied by severe stomach high risk of malaria, take

risky display pains, vomiting and fever, preventive anti-malarial drugs

whereas amoebic dysentery before, during, and after your

travel to the affected area. If has similar symptoms but takes trip. Contact MASTA (Medical

you develop symptoms of longer to manifest. Vaccination Advisory Services for Travellers

pneumonia or flu after your against Hepatitis A is advisable Abroad) and check the

trip, see your physician before leaving home, espe- MD Travel Health website

immediately. cially if you plan to visit (see p617) for information on

Bird flu, or avian rural areas. Other water- malaria medication. Dengue

influenza, is a serious borne diseases, such as fever and Japanese B

problem in east Asia, cholera and typhoid, can encephalitis are also carried

but unlikely to affect also be prevented with by mosquitos. To guard

travelers. Almost all of vaccines. Schistosomiasis against mosquito bites,

the people who (bilharzia), a disease apply mosquito repellent,

contracted the disease caused by a water-borne and wear clothes that cover

in 2004 were in close parasitic worm found in as much of your arms and

contact with poultry. south and central China, legs as possible.

Do not visit any poultry can be avoided by not
swimming in fresh water. ALTITUDE SICKNESS
farms, avoid birds at

outdoor markets, and Bottled min- Drink bottled mineral

eat only poultry and eral water water at all times, and ALACK OF SUFFICIENT oxygen
eggs that have been avoid ice cubes. at altitudes higher than

thoroughly cooked. RABIES 8,000 ft (2,500 m) can cause

SEXUALLY TRANSMITTED attacks of Acute Mountain

& OTHER INFECTIOUS Sickness (AMS) – severe head-
DISEASES
THE DEADLY RABIES virus is aches, dizziness, and loss of
spread via the bite of an appetite. These symptoms

infected animal. If you are subside within a day or two,

AFTER YEARS OF denial, bitten, clean the bite with an but if they persist beyond 48
hours, you must descend to a
Chinese authorities have antiseptic solution, and seek

begun to publicly admit to medical help at once. Treat- lower altitude immediately and

the alarming spread of HIV – ment involves a course of seek medical help. To avoid

the virus that causes Acquired injections. A rabies vaccine is altitude sickness ascend slowly,

Immune Deficiency Syndrome only necessary if you are drink plenty of fluids, and

(AIDS) – via unprotected sex, visiting high-risk areas for a avoid alcohol and sedatives.

drug use, and infected blood

banks. Experts are predicting

10 million AIDS cases in

China by the year 2010.

Nonetheless, considerable

ignorance about the disease

and its prevention still exists

in rural areas. Long-term

visitors to China are screened

for HIV infection.

Hepatitis B, also transmitted

through contact with infected

blood, is spread through

sexual contact, unsterilized

needles, tattoos, and shaves

from roadside barbers. How-

ever, it can be prevented

with a vaccine.

When visiting a clinic,

ensure that the doctor opens Trekking at high altitudes on Chomolungma (Mount Everest)

620 S U RV I VA L G U I D E

Banking & Local Currency CHANGING MONEY

CHINA PROVIDES A WIDE RANGE of banking CHINESE CURRENCY is non-
facilities and money exchange services, convertible; it is not widely
which are available in large cities, interna- available internationally and
cannot be used outside the
tional airports, major banks, and top-end country. You will have to ex-
change your money in China
24-hr hotels. Traveler’s checks are the safest way (most major currencies are ac-
banking sign cepted), and then convert any
to carry large sums of money, but always left-over renminbi back before
keep some cash to hand for transport, you leave. You can exchange
currency at banks and interna-
restaurants, and purchases, as traveler’s checks and tional airports and most decent
hotels will change money for
credit cards cannot be used everywhere, especially in guests. All exchange operations
are linked to the Bank of China
rural areas. ATMs that accept international cards can so rates do not vary between
them. Keep exchange receipts
still be hard to find outside Hong Kong, Macau, so that you can re-convert any
surplus renminbi before leav-
and some of the larger cities. ing China. The Chinese “black
market” for exchanging foreign
BANKS & BANKING works such as PLUS, CIRRUS, currency offers only marginally
HOURS and MAESTRO can be found in better rates than banks. Dealing
larger cities such as Beijing, with the shady characters in-
THE BANK OF CHINA has the Shanghai, Guangzhou, and volved is not worth the hassle
most extensive network Shenzhen, often at airports, or risk, and you may end up
in the country. Several other major branches of the Bank of with counterfeit renminbi.
major banks operate nation- China, and five-star hotels.
wide, including the Industrial Some ATMs also dispense cash Hong Kong dollars are con-
and Commercial Bank of against credit cards. Cash vertible and available outside
China, the China Construction withdrawn from ATMs is the country. They are accepted
Bank, and China Merchants subject to the same exchange in Macau and most southern
Bank. Banks are normally rate as credit cards, and there Special Economic Zones.
open 9am–noon and 2pm– may be a limit to how much
4:30pm or 5pm Monday to you can withdraw per day. CREDIT CARDS
Friday, but there are variations
between places, and some CREDIT CARDS are widely
banks are open on Saturdays. accepted in upmarket
All banks remain closed for the restaurants and hotels and in
first three days of the Chinese large tourist shops, but always
New Year, with reduced hours check before attempting to
during other Chinese holidays. make a purchase that your
foreign card is accepted. The
AUTOMATED TELLERS accepted cards are MasterCard,
Visa, Japan Credit Bureau
AUTOMATED TELLER Machines Hong Kong & Shanghai Banking (JCB), Diners Club, and
(ATMs) that accept foreign Corporation (HSBC) ATMs American Express. Air tickets
cards are common in Hong
Kong and Macau, but scarce in
mainland China, so it is best
not to rely on them. ATMs
attached to international net-

DIRECTORY Shanghai Dong Cheng District, 24-hr ATMs
100005. Adjacent to the Peace
BANK OF CHINA 39/F, Bank of China Hotel, Zhongshan Dong Lu.
Tower, 200 Yincheng Rd, Shanghai
Beijing Central, Pudong, 200120. AMERICAN
HSBC Tower, EXPRESS
Asia Pacific Building, Hong Kong 101 Ying Cheng East Rd,
8 Yabao Lu, Chaoyang Pudong, 200120. Beijing
District, 100020. 2A Des Voeux Road, 24-hr ATMs
1 Fuxing Men Nei Dajie, Central. Shanghai Center, 1376 Room 2101,
100818. 24–28 Carnarvon Road, Nanjing Xi Lu. China World Tower One,
Tsim Sha Tsui. China World Trade Center,
1 Jianguo Men Wai Dajie,
24-hr ATMs HSBC CITIBANK 100004.
Arrivals Hall, Capital Airport.
Corner of Sundongan Plaza, Beijing Shanghai Shanghai

Wangfujing Dajie. Block A, Beijing COFCO Marine Tower, Room 206, Retail Plaza,
Corner of Oriental Plaza, Plaza 8, 1 Pudong Avenue, Shanghai Center, 200040.
Jianguo Men Nei Dajie, Pudong, 200120.
1 Dongchang’an Jie.

PRACTICAL INFORMATION 621

can be bought by credit card the Bank of China, and at larg- colloquial Chinese, jiao is
from the Civil Aviation Admin- er hotels, but are not accepted called mao, and yuan is kuai.
istration of China (CAAC) at most hotels and restaurants. The most common coins in-
offices, but train tickets have to Keep the proof of purchase clude 1 yuan, 5 jiao, and 1
be paid for in cash. Cash ad- slips and a record of the serial jiao, while the bills in circula-
vances can be made on credit numbers in case of loss or tion are 1, 2, and 5 jiao, and 1,
cards at the Bank of China. theft. Hold on to encashment 2, 5, 10, 20, 50, and 100 yuan.
slips, so you can convert spare There are also some fen coins
TRAVELER’S CHECKS renminbi to another currency and notes, but this tiny denom-
before leaving the country. ination is rarely accepted. Try
TRAVELER’S CHECKS are safer to not to acquire too many dam-
carry than cash and offer a CURRENCY aged notes, as they may be dif-
better exchange rate, but you ficult to get rid of. Counterfeit-
will have to pay a commission. CHINA’S CURRENCY is called ing is widespread, and shop-
All major brands are accepted yuan, also known as keepers regularly scrutinize
in China, and American renminbi, literally People’s large denominations. Hong
Express and Visa are the most Currency. One yuan divides Kong dollars divide into 100
widely used. They can be into 10 jiao, which divides into cents, and Macanese patacas
encashed at major branches of 10 almost worthless fen. In into 100 avos.

Bank Notes
The more recently minted bills have Mao
Zedong on one side and a well-known heritage
sight on the other. The older bills depict the
traditional dress of various ethnic minorities.

1-yuan note

5-yuan note

10-yuan note

20-yuan note

100-yuan note 5 jiao 1 jiao 50-yuan note
1 yuan
Coins
Chinese coins are not
widely circulated. There
is a 1 yuan coin, some
jiao denominations,
as well as tiny and
lightweight fen.

622 S U RV I VA L G U I D E

Communications sites and content is prohibited.

The government has banned

CHINA HAS AN EFFICIENT postal network access to many supposedly
with a variety of services, including politically sensitive sites,

registered post and express mail. Tele- although newspaper sites
communication systems are reasonably are generally available.

advanced and international telephone POSTAL SERVICES
calls can be made from all but the

cheapest hotels. The internet is hugely THE POSTAL SERVICE in China
Sign for a public popular, and cafés with access are is, for the most part,
reliable, and the domestic
telephone widespread. The government, however,

polices the net, and websites that it considers service is reasonably fast. It

controversial may be blocked. Foreign newspapers and takes less than a day for mail
magazines are sold in five-star hotel bookstores, but to reach local destinations,
these may be censored as well. two or more days to inland
destinations, while the

international postal service

Renting a cell phone is an takes up to 10 days to send

expensive option and tricky airmail and postcards

to arrange in China. Rent one overseas. Visitors can send

from a company at home and mail by standard or registered

take it with you. post (guahaoxin), while EMS

E-MAIL & INTERNET (Express Mail Service) is a
FACILITIES
reliable way to send packages
and documents abroad and

within the country.

PERSONAL COMPUTER owner- Main post offices are open

ship is still very limited in seven days a week, from

China, so internet cafés 8am to 8pm, while smaller

(wangba) are found just ones usually close earlier or

about everywhere. Many are for lunch, and remain shut on

no more than hole-in-the- the weekends. Large hotels

walls, and the numbers have usually have post desks.

Wheelchair-accessible phone dwindled somewhat since Take your mail to the post

booth, Beijing licensing regulations became office, rather than dropping it

stricter following a spate of in a mailbox. It will help postal
INTERNATIONAL & LOCAL fires. You will find the
TELEPHONE CALLS staff sort your letter if you write
greatest number of cafés the country’s name in Chinese

clustered around university characters. Aerograms and

INTERNATIONAL PHONE calls campuses and in residential packaging materials for parcels
can be made from most neighborhoods. You can also are available at post offices.

hotels, telephone boxes, and get online at China Telecom Reliable poste restante ser-

offices of China Telecom. offices. Unless you need to vices are available all over

Card phones that accept a get online urgently, avoid China. You will need some

wide variety of phonecards using hotel business centers form of identification –

are available in large cities, or internet cafés aimed at preferably your passport – to

and are the cheapest way of tourists, as they are generally retrieve your mail. Envelopes

making domestic and over-priced. China polices the should be addressed with the

international calls. IC (Inte- internet, so access to certain surname underlined and in

grated Circuit) cards come in

denominations of ¥20, ¥50,

and ¥100, and are largely

used for domestic calls. They

can also be used for interna-

tional calls, though the rates

are not very good. IP (Inter-

net Phone) cards come in

denominations of Y100 and

offer the cheapest rates for

international calls.

If the local cellphone net-

work is compatible with your

own phone, you can continue

to use it in China. It can be

cheaper, however, to buy a

phone and SIM card while

you are in the country. Aztec, one of the largest cyber cafés in Shanghai

PRACTICAL INFORMATION 623

DIRECTORY

DHL Worldwide Express

§ (010) 6466 2211 or

800 810 8000, Beijing.
§ (021) 6536 2900 or

800 810 8000, Shanghai.

Federal Express

§ (010) 6561 2003 or

800 810 2338, Beijing.
§ (021) 6237 5134, Shanghai.

A choice of Chinese newspapers on display at a newsstand General Post Office

capitals. Chinese addresses such as the BBC are. In 134 Changjiang Lu, Dalian.
Near Bell Tower, Bei Dajie, Xi’an.
always start with the country, Beijing, Shanghai, Tianjin,
International Post Office
then the province, city, street, Guangzhou, and other large
Jianguo Men Bei Dajie, Beijing.
house number, and name of cities, look out for expat Sichuan Bei Lu, Shanghai.

recipient. The post code entertainment and culture United Parcel Service

should be written at the end. magazines, which offer the § (010) 6593 2932, Beijing.
§ (021) 6391 5555, Shanghai.
COURIER SERVICES best news on local events.
range from historical costume
TELEVISION & dramas and tepid soaps to
RADIO domestic travel, wildlife pro-
COURIER SERVICES are grams, war films, and heavily
widely available, THE STATE-RUN biased news programs.
but less so in small television network,
towns and remote There is also a wide
Chinese-language radio net-
areas. While it is Chinese Central work, but only a few local
English-language programs.
preferable to send Television (CCTV), has You will need a shortwave
radio to pick up the BBC
large, bulky items by two English-language World Service, Voice of
America, and other interna-
regular land, sea, or channels. CCTV9 is tional programs. Bad recep-
tion of BBC World Service
air cargo, important tolerable despite its programs in Chinese, however,
suggests some kind of artificial
letters, documents, biased news and bland disruption of the radio signal.

and smaller parcels program content.

are best sent Some English pro-

through a courier Mail box, grams are also

agency, even Beijing broadcast on CCTV4.

though it may be Cable and satellite

more expensive. United television is only available in

Parcel Service (UPS), top-end hotels and diplomatic

Federal Express, and DHL compounds, so you will not

Worldwide Express are find BBC News 24 or CNN

international courier agencies everywhere. Chinese programs

with a wide network.

NEWSPAPERS & USEFUL DIALLING CODES & NUMBERS
MAGAZINES
• To call China from • To make a local call, omit
THE DRY as dust China abroad, dial your inter- the area code.
Daily is China’s official national access code,
English language newspaper, China’s country code (86), • To make an international
but it is very short on the area code omitting call from China, dial 00,
substance. A selection of the first 0, followed by the country code, the area
international newspapers and the local number. code omitting any initial
magazines can be found at 0, and the local number.
tourist hotel bookstores • Neither Hong Kong nor
including the International Macau have area codes; • Country codes: UK 44;
Herald Tribune, the Finan- they only have country France 33; USA & Canada
cial Times, Time, Newsweek, codes – 852 and 853 1; Australia 61; Ireland
and the Economist. Imported respectively. 353; New Zealand 64;
English-language newspapers South Africa 27; Japan 81.
still come under the censor’s • To make an inter-city call,
knife, with the odd page dial the area code of that • Dial 115 for international
missing. Online newspapers city and the local number. directory assistance.
are not usually blocked, but For Beijing, dial 010;
online news organizations Shanghai, 021; Guang- • Dial 114 for local
zhou, 020; Chongqing, directory enquiries in
023; Kunming 0871. Chinese; dial the area
code followed by 114 for
numbers in another town.

624 S U RV I VA L G U I D E

TRAVEL INFORMATION

MOST VISITORS to China arrive huge rail network, although tickets –
by air, though overland especially for sleeping berths – can
routes exist with train be rare during the holiday periods.

links to neighboring Russia, Bus travel is improving, with buses

Mongolia, Kazakhstan, and covering the entire country, and an

Vietnam, and a bus link to increasing number of “luxury”

Pakistan. It is also possible to arrive buses that offer reasonable

by sea; there are regular ferries comfort. Mired in bureau-

from Japan and South Korea to cracy, renting a car is not rec-

China. Traveling within the country ommended; foreigners are

– even to remote areas – is possi- restricted from driving in

ble by air, train, road, and, on a Arriving in China many areas and the condition

few routes, by boat. China has a with luggage of many roads is very poor.

ARRIVING BY AIR Aeroflot (via Moscow), and has a swanky international air-
Malaysia Airlines (via Kuala port on Taipa Island, although
ALL MAJOR international Lumpur). Virgin currently most visitors arrive via boat
airlines fly to China. Air only flies to Shanghai, while from Hong Kong. Other inter-
China, the country’s inter- British Airways is planning to national airports offering flights
national carrier, has quite add Shanghai to its Beijing to overseas destinations include
basic service and facilities, and Hong Kong routes. Changchun (Tokyo), Dalian
but has a near-spotless safety (Seoul and Tokyo), Guangzhou
record and its flights, to most INTERNATIONAL FLIGHTS (Kuala Lumpur, Los Angeles,
of the world’s major airports, & AIRPORTS Sydney, Singapore, Paris, and
are competitively priced. North other destinations), Guilin
American and European CHINA’S THREE main (Seoul, Fukuoka, Kuala
carriers such as United international airports are at Lumpur, and Singapore),
Airlines, British Airways, Hong Kong, Beijing, and Harbin (Los Angeles, Seoul,
Virgin, Lufthansa, KLM, and Shanghai. The Chinese govern- Khabarovsk, and Vladivostok),
Air France, have regular ment is investing a consider- Kunming (Bangkok), Lhasa
flights to some, or all, of able amount of money to (Kathmandu), Qingdao (Osaka,
China’s three main – and provide its international Seoul, and Singapore), Shen-
most sophisticated – airports airports with state-of-the-art yang (Khabarovsk, Osaka, and
at Hong Kong, Shanghai, and features. While there are Seoul), Tianjin (Nagoya, Osaka,
Beijing. Flights to the other already two impressive and Seoul), Xi’an (Fukuoka,
parts of the Far East, Australia, terminals at Beijing Capital Hiroshima, Niigata, Nagoya,
and New Zealand are offered Airport, a third one is under and Seoul), Xiamen (Kuala
by Singapore Airlines, Japan way, scheduled to be ready Lumpur, Manila, Singapore,
Airlines, All Nippon Airways, before 2008, in time for the and Osaka), and Ürümqi
Korean Air, Qantas, Cathay Beijing Olympics. In 1999, (Almaty, Bishkek, Islamabad,
Pacific, Air New Zealand, Pudong Airport was built in Moscow, Novosibirsk, and
and others. Cheap flights to Shanghai, making it the first Tashkent).
China are also available via city in China to have two inter-
Air China, China Eastern, national airports. Macau, too, AIR FARES

Buses dropping off travelers at Departures, Beijing Airport AIR FARES VARY according to
the airline and the season.
The peak season for interna-
tional flights to China is
between June and September,
when ticket prices are most
expensive. It can also be har-
der to find reasonably priced
tickets during the holidays:
Chinese New Year, the first
week of May, and the first
week of October. While flying
indirectly to China via another
country is cheaper than flying
direct, traveling by a Chinese
airline such as Air China or
China Eastern will be cheaper
than flying by any other

T R AV E L I N F O R M AT I O N 625

international airline. Plenty of and force their services on DIRECTORY

discount tickets are available foreign visitors. Instead, head AIRLINE OFFICES

for long-term travel, which are for the taxi rank where trips Air China

valid for 12 months with multi- into town are charged by the § (010) 6601 7755, Beijing.
§ (021) 6269 2999, Shanghai.
ple stopovers and open dates. meter. Four- and five-star ∑ www.airchina.com.cn

Search on the internet for the hotels usually run shuttle Air France

best deals. Numerous travel buses to their hotels and the § (010) 6588 1388, Beijing.
∑ www.airfrance.com
agencies across the world have Civil Aviation Administration
All Nippon Airways
websites, making it easy to of China (CAAC) runs buses
§ (010) 6505 3311, Beijing.
compare prices. However, if to their office in town. ∑ www.anaskyweb.com

you’re planning to bid for last- British Airways
minute tickets online, you need CHECK-IN
§ (010) 8511 5599, Beijing.
to be sure that you can travel § (0852) 2822 9000, Hong Kong.
∑ www.britishairways.com
on the dates specified. THE CHECK-IN time for inter-
national flights is officially Cathay Pacific
ON ARRIVAL two hours before departure.
§ (0852) 2747 1888, Hong Kong.
Most passengers are allowed ∑ www.cathaypacific.com

ON THE AIRPLANE, visitors are 40 pounds (20 kg) of baggage, KLM
given two forms to com- while first-class passengers
plete: an im- may be allow- § (010) 6505 3505, Beijing.
∑ www.klm.com
migration form ed 66 pounds
Lufthansa
and a health (30 kg).
§ (010) 6465 4488, Beijing.
form, both of One additional ∑ www.lufthansa.com

which have to item of hand Northwest Airlines

be submitted luggage weigh- § (010) 6505 3505, Beijing.
∑ www.nwa.com
along with ing up to 11
Qantas
their passport pounds (5 kg)
§ (010) 6467 4794, Beijing.
at the airport International departure is also usually § (0852) 2822 9000, Hong Kong.
immigration ∑ www.qantas.com.au
tax receipt for 90 yuan permitted. Baggage
United Airlines
counter. allowance depends
§ (0852) 2810 8616, Hong Kong.
International airports in on the destination, and ∑ www.united.com

China offer a limited range of travelers to North America Virgin Atlantic

facilities, but you will find are generally allowed more § (0852) 2532 6060, Hong Kong.
∑ www.virgin-atlantic.com
foreign exchange counters, luggage. If you are carrying

ATMs, public telephones, left- heavy luggage, check with

luggage services, restaurants your airline to make sure

(though rather over-priced), that your luggage is within

shops, and toilets. Airport the weight limit, as excess

tourist information centers in baggage charges can be

China are of varying degrees very high.

of usefulness, and are often
manned by staff who speak DEPARTURE TAX

poor English.

GETTING FROM THE UNTIL RECENTLY, departure
AIRPORT taxes from Beijing and
Shanghai had to be paid in

cash at the airport (90 and 50

AIRPORTS ARE LINKED to the yuan respectively). Check

city by express train or by with your travel agent whether

bus routes which make sev- your ticket includes departure

eral stops in town. Avoid the tax, and be prepared to pay

overpriced taxi touts who try at the airport if not.

AIRPORT § INFORMATION DISTANCE TO AVERAGE JOURNEY
(010) 6457 1666 CITY CENTER TIME
Beijing Capital Airport (021) 6268 8899
Hongqiao Airport 16 miles (25 km) 40 mins (taxi)
(Shanghai) northeast
30 mins (taxi)
12 miles (19 km) west

Pudong Airport (Shanghai) (021) 6834 1000 28 miles (45 km) east 45 mins (taxi)

Hong Kong International (0852) 2181 0000 20 miles (32 km) west 25 mins (train)
Airport (0853) 861 111 15 mins (taxi)
3 miles (5 km)
Macau International Airport northwest

626 S U RV I VA L G U I D E

Domestic Air Travel DOMESTIC AIRPORTS

ALTHOUGH TRAVELING BY AIR is more expensive than AIR TRAVEL IS BECOMING much
traveling by train, it is often the most convenient more convenient in China
and comfortable way of covering the long distances as new airports are being
involved in Chinese travel. In fact, if you need to get built and old ones renovated
quickly from one end of the country to the other, there and expanded. State-of-the-art
is often no alternative. The extensive domestic flight facilities are now available at
network involves numerous regional airlines flying to Beijing Capital Airport,
over 150 airports. The main cities of Beijing, Hong Shanghai’s Pudong Inter-
national Airport, and the

Kong, Shanghai, Dalian, Guangzhou, and Xi’an are Hong Kong International

particularly well connected to airports throughout the Airport at Chek Lap Kok.
These modern airports easily
country. Domestic air tickets are straight-forward to compare with the best
buy, so wait until you arrive and then shop around for airports in the world. Airports
discounts. Flight cancellations and delays due to bad at some major tourist cities,
weather are common, especially in winter and on less such as Xi’an, also sport up-
traveled routes in the more remote provinces, so remem- to-date facilities. Despite the
ber to reconfirm your ticket and the time of your flight. burgeoning air industry, some

DOMESTIC AIRLINES airports are badly in need of

neglected, but standards are modernization, due to

slowly improving. regional gaps in investment.

AFEW PRIVATE AIRLINES operate Air China’s international
from Hong Kong and flying safety record is good, but GETTING TO & FROM THE
Macau, but most other airlines the safety record of domestic AIRPORT

in China are administered by airlines remains below that of

the Civil Aviation Adminis- developed countries. THE DISTANCE from airports
tration of China (CAAC). Older aircraft are some- to city centers varies

There are currently about times used in China’s peri- considerably in China, so

ten domestic pheral regions. factor this into your journey

carriers operating Before you choose time. Also, always allow time

in China. (The to book with a for unforeseen delays en

initials in paren- Logo of China’s national particular airline, route. In many large cities

theses are the airline, Air China you may wish to and towns, you can reach the

airline code or ask what kind of airport or travel from the

flight-number prefix.) Some of plane you will be boarding. airport into town on a CAAC

the domestic airlines, such as The baggage allowance is bus, which departs from and

China Southern (CZ), and 44 pounds (20 kg) for econ- arrives at the CAAC office in

China Eastern (MU), also fly omy class and 66 pounds town. In larger cities, such as

international routes. You can (30 kg) for first and business Beijing, Shanghai, and Hong

buy domestic flights from these class. You are also allowed up Kong, dedicated bus and train

airlines overseas, but rates are to 11 pounds (5 kg) of hand services run from town to the

far better when booked in luggage, although airlines airport. The Hong Kong

China. Other domestic airlines almost never weigh it. The International Airport has a

include Sichuan Airlines charge for excess baggage is state-of-the-art Airport

(3U), Shanghai Airlines (FM), 1 percent of the full fare per Express rail link to both

Shenzhen Airlines (4G), Hainan 2.2 pounds (1 kg). Kowloon and Central, while

Airlines (HU), and

Xiamen Airlines (MF).

Lack of competition

in the industry has

given the airlines little

impetus to improve

standards or customer

service. Meals on

board are sometimes

served hot, but are

often limited to a

sandwich. Announce-

ments are both in

Chinese and English

if there are foreign

nationals on board.

In-flight service

remains brusque,

and foreign visitors

sometimes feel Flight attendants aboard Sichuan Airlines en route to Chengdu

T R AV E L I N F O R M AT I O N 627

Beijing Capital Airport has of tickets unless you are DIRECTORY

only bus and taxi links, flying between Hong Kong CAAC OFFICES

although a rail link is current- and a mainland destination, Beijing

ly under construction. Shang- except in the run up to and § (010) 6256 7811.

hai’s Pudong Airport is con- during the Chinese New Year, Lhasa

nected to the metro and the week-long § (0891) 633 3446.

system by a high- holiday periods Luoyang

speed Maglev train. after May 1 and § (0379) 393 1120.

Taxis wait for October 1, when it Zhengzhou

passengers outside is advisable to § (0371) 599 1111.

the arrivals hall. book well in CHINA EASTERN
AIRLINES
Make sure you advance.
∑ www.ce-air.com
head for the A combined
Beijing
taxi rank and international
§ (010) 6456 5368.
avoid the and domestic
Hong Kong
numerous timetable is
§ (0852) 2861 0322.
touts who will published by
Shanghai
try to direct CAAC in both
§ (021) 6247 5953 (domestic).
you towards English and
Suzhou
their own car. Chinese.
§ (0512) 6522 2788.
Insist on the Road signs to the airport, These publi-
driver using Hong Kong cations can be CHINA SOUTHERN
the meter. If bought at AIRLINES

you have booked accommo- most airline offices and CAAC ∑ www.cs-air.com

dation, check whether your outlets. Individual airlines also Beijing

hotel offers transport to and print their own timetables, § (010) 6567 2203.

from the airport. available at booking offices Guangzhou

CHECK-IN throughout the country. Flight § (020) 8668 2000.

schedules are revised in April Haikou

and October each year. § (0898) 6534 9433.

FOR MOST domestic flights, Ticket prices are calculated Hong Kong
the check-in time is at according to a one-way fare,
§ (0852) 2861 0322.
least an hour and a half and a return-ticket is simply
DRAGONAIR
before departure, although double the single fare.
∑ www.dragonair.com
very few passengers arrive Discounts on official fares are
Beijing
that early. Make sure all your the norm, so it is best to
§ (010) 6518 2533.
bags are tagged, and do not check with travel agents for
Haikou
pack sharp objects, such as good deals. You are likely to
§ (0898) 6855 0312.
scissors, tweez- get a better deal
Hong Kong
ers, nail files, or on a flight if you
§ (0852) 3193 3888.
knitting needles, buy your ticket
Shanghai
in your hand from an agent in
§ (021) 6375 6375.
luggage. The air- the city you are
Xi’an
port tax for dom- departing from.
§ (029) 8426 9288.
estic flights is Domestic departure tax Business class
usually ¥50, and receipt for 50 yuan tickets cost 25 SICHUAN AIRLINES
is paid at the time percent more
∑ www.scal.com.cn
of purchasing the ticket. than economy, while first
Beijing
class tickets cost 60 percent
TICKETS, RESERVATIONS more. Children over the age § (010) 6606 8763.
& CANCELLATIONS
of 12 are charged adult fares, Chengdu

while there are special § (028) 8888 8888.

EACH DOMESTIC airline has discounted fares for younger Toll free
a booking office in most children and infants.
§ 800 86699.
cities, as well as a reservation If you wish to return or

counter at each airport. Tickets change your air ticket, you

can be booked through ticket can get a refund as long as you

offices, travel agents, or the cancel at least 24 hours before

travel desks of some of the departure, and return your

better hotels – you should not ticket to the same agent who

be charged a booking fee. sold it to you. Even if you miss

Travel agents tend to offer the your flight, you are entitled to

best discounts. Credit cards are a refund of 50 percent of the

accepted by many travel agents full fare. You may be asked to

and CAAC offices. Visitors are buy travel insurance from your

required to show their pass- ticketing agent. It is generally

ports when purchasing tickets. not worthwhile, as the claim

There is generally no shortage amount is very low.

628 S U RV I VA L G U I D E

Traveling by Train Kunming, while train K80 runs
from Kunming to Shanghai.
CHINA IS A VAST COUNTRY and, for many travelers, train
journeys are an excellent way to see the country- Trains are of three types:
side and get to know the people. The Chinese rail those with numbers prefixed
network is extensive, with tracks running over 32,300 by the letter “T” or “K” are
miles (52,000 km). Trains in China are punctual, fast, express (te kuai) or fast
and relatively safe, and are a reliable transport option. (kuai) trains, and those
Buying reserved tickets, however, can often be prob- whose numbers have no
lematic, and since trains are usually crowded, it is prefix are ordinary (pu kuai)
advisable to either buy your ticket well in advance, or ask trains, with frequent stops.
your hotel or travel agent to arrange your bookings. Express trains have carriages
of all classes, and are the
THE RAILWAY NETWORK most modern and comfortable,
with few stops and superior
SINCE THE COST of air travel is Platform food stall, Yinchuan services. Double-decker trains
beyond the reach of most with soft-seat carriages run on
Chinese, traveling by train is train station a few short intercity routes
the preferred alternative, such as Beijing–Tianjin or
especially over long distances. ticket offices. Stations can Shanghai–Hangzhou. All
China has an efficient and be frustrating places, and long-distance trains are
extensive rail network that visitors will need patience equipped with sleepers.
covers every province, bar- to deal with them. Trying
ring two – Hainan Island, to locate English-speaking There is no smoking
where a very limited rail staff on platforms is difficult, permitted within compart-
network without passenger even in large cities such as ments, except in hard-seat
services exists, and Tibet, Beijing and Shanghai. carriages, although most
which will soon be connected Telephoning stations with trains allow passengers to
to Qinghai by the railway line enquiries is pointless unless smoke in the corridors. Most
currently under construction, you speak Chinese. trains have dining cars, and
and due for completion in staff will continuously push
2007. Hong Kong is also con- Each train is identified by a trolleys through the carriages
nected to mainland China by train number, written on the selling noodles, snacks, min-
rail. Depending on which outside of each carriage, that eral water, coffee, and news-
type of ticket you purchase, indicates its route and papers. The noise level in
Chinese trains can be quite destination. As a rule, incom- carriages is often very high,
comfortable, and there are ing and outgoing trains as music and announcements
fast services running between running between two destina- are regularly broadcast over
most large towns and cities. tions are numbered sequen- the speakers. China’s modern
tially. For example, train K79 fleet of trains are much clean-
TRAINS & TIMETABLES travels from Shanghai to er than the old ones and have
air conditioning. The older
ALTHOUGH TRAINS in China trains can be very dingy
are commendably punc- indeed; prepare yourself for
tual, trying to decipher a sordid and filthy bathrooms.
Chinese timetable is an
impossible task, unless you CLASSES
can read Chinese. Timetables
are published in April and C HINESE TRAINS have four
October each year, and are classes. The most luxur-
available at railway station ious class is Soft Sleeper
(ruan wo), with four comfort-
able berths per compartment.
Offering more privacy, secur-
ity, and cleanliness than

Grand Soviet-style Taiyuan train station

T R AV E L I N F O R M AT I O N 629

available about five days

before departure. On

short routes, you may be

able to secure a ticket

just before departure,

but it is safest to buy in

advance. Tickets on

longer routes are certain

to sell out, especially

those for hard sleepers.

Train fares are

calculated according to

Modern glass and steel train station, Changzhou the class and the

distance traveled. All

less-expensive classes, soft than four hours in a hard- tickets are one-way, so you

sleeper tickets are very seat carriage can be quite will need to buy another

pricey, and are not much unpleasant. Carriages are ticket for the return journey.

cheaper than air tickets on usually crowded and dirty, Joining the crowds at station

certain routes. the speakers blare endlessly, ticket counters can be very

For long journeys lasting lights remain on at night, and trying, so unless the station

over six hours, Hard Sleeper compartments are filled with has a separate ticket office for

(ying wo) is the best way to smoke. It is possible to up- foreign visitors, which is the

travel. Consequently, these grade (bu piao) once aboard case at Beijing train station,

tickets are the hardest to pro- the train, if there are seats consider asking your hotel,

cure, and you’d be lucky to available in the class of your tourist office, or travel agent

get one on short notice. Hard choice. Note that hard-seat to buy tickets for you – they

sleeper can be an economical tickets bought on the same day should be more than happy

choice when traveling are usually unreserved. to do so for a small fee.

between cities overnight, as it Available only on certain Black-market operators buy

saves the cost of a night in routes, Soft Seat (ruan zuo) tickets in bulk, and then re-

a hotel. carriages are sell them at a mark-up out-

Carriages con- much more side railway stations. If you’re

sist of doorless comfortable buying tickets on the black-

compartments, and spacious market, check the dates of

each with six Booking office sign, than hard travel, destination, and class

bunks. Tickets Zhenjiang train station, seat, and seat printed on the ticket carefully.

are of three two people Before boarding the train,

types – upper berth (shang side-by-side in numbered visitors wait in a hall before

pu), middle berth (zhong pu), seats. Tickets cost about as filing past ticket-checkers to

and lower berth (xia pu), much as hard sleeper. the platform. Retain your

with a small price difference TRAIN TICKETS, FARES ticket as inspectors will ask to

between each. The lowest see it again, just before you
berth is the most expensive, & RESERVATIONS
reach your destination. Note

while the top one is the that getting hold of tickets

cheapest. The best berth, WHEN BUYING TICKETS, it is during the Chinese New Year
however, is the middle one. essential to plan in (Spring Festival), and the May

The upper bunk has little advance. On most routes, it is and October holiday periods

head-room and is closest to vital to buy tickets at least can be very difficult, and it is

the speakers. During the day, two or three days before you inadvisable to travel during

the lower bunk acts as seating travel, although tickets are these times.

and fills with fellow passen-

gers. Pillows, sheets, and

blankets are provided by the

railways, as are two thermos

flasks of boiling water, which

you can replenish yourself

from the massive boiler at the

end of each carriage. Once

aboard the train, the inspector

will exchange your ticket for

a metal token, and return the

ticket at the end of the journey.

The cheapest class is Hard

Seat (ying zuo), which seats

three people side-by-side

on lightly cushioned seats.

Although fine for short

journeys, spending more A uniformed platform guard minding a double-decker train, Dalian

630 S U RV I VA L G U I D E

Traveling by Bus & Ferry general, long-haul bus journeys

are taxing. Road conditions are

CHINA’S EXTENSIVE NETWORK of road transport connects often poor and road works are
most cities, as well as distant, rural areas. Bus travel common, slowing the journey
is essential for reaching places that are not served by considerably. Drivers can be
train. Tickets are both easier to procure and are reckless and bus crashes are
cheaper than train tickets, and there is a wider choice distressingly frequent. The
of departure times, stops, and itineraries. The absence noise level can be deafening,
of a national operator, however, means that numerous with music blaring and the
competing businesses exist, coupled with minimal driver leaning on the horn, so
take earplugs. Most buses are

regulation. Furthermore, driving is often rash, vehicles choked with cigarette smoke.

are poorly maintained, and road conditions can be bad, Ordinary buses (putong
especially in the more remote areas. A small network of che) are the cheapest and
passenger ferries serves ports along China’s coastline have basic wooden, or lightly
padded, seats. These buses
and some of the inland waterways. stop often, so progress can be

LONG-DISTANCE BUSES destination than the train. slow. They provide little

space for baggage – there’s

All cities and most large no room under the seats and

THERE ARE STILL many parts towns have at least one long- the luggage racks are minu-
of China that are not distance bus station (changtu scule. Suitcases and backpacks

accessible by train, making it qiche zhan) where state-run are usually stacked next to

necessary to make the long buses arrive and depart. the driver, and you may

haul by road. In Fujian, Private bus firms may be charged.

where rail services exist, but have set up a few of Sleeper buses (wopu

are infuriatingly indirect, bus their own bus che) speed through

travel makes a lot of sense. In stations in town; the night making

Guizhou and Guangxi, the often, one of these few stops, so reach

more interesting areas is located next to the their destination in

inhabited by ethnic minorities train station. Other good time. They

are only accessible by bus stations may be located usually have two tiers

and the tropical area of on the edges of town of bunks, or seats that

Xishuangbanna in Yunnan is – the North or East Bus stop, recline almost flat. The

best explored by bus or taxi. Bus Station will Hong Kong older models can be

You will also need to take a usually serve quite dirty. Lower

bus (unless you are flying) to destinations to the north or bunks (xia pu) cost more than

reach Lijiang in northern east. Determining which of the upper bunks (shang pu),

Yunnan and all of western these stations serves the place but are worth the extra cost as

Sichuan. Getting around Tibet you are trying to reach can you are less likely to be thrown

will require long bus jour- be tricky, so you will need to from your bed when the driver

neys, as will exploring the do plenty of asking around. takes a corner at speed.

northwestern frontier of China Destinations are displayed in Shorter routes are served by

if you want to get beyond the Chinese characters on the rattling minibuses (xiao ba),

towns on the main train line. front of buses. which depart only when every

Numerous sights throughout Long-distance buses vary spare space has been filled by

China are off rail lines. enormously in quality, age, a paying passenger. Crammed

Many smooth, wide high- and comfort. You may find to the roof, minibus trips can

ways now link some of the that several buses are running be quite uncomfortable.

major cities, making some bus along the same route, so Express buses (kuai che)

travel, particularly on the east make sure you are sold a are the best way to travel.

coast, reasonably comfortable. ticket for the fastest, most Some are luxury (hao hua),

In some cases, the bus is now comfortable bus, or cheapest have air conditioning, and

a faster way to reach your bus, if you prefer. Note that in enforce a no-smoking policy.

Luggage is stowed in

a hold, which is fairly safe,

given the few stops that are

made en route.

In certain parts of China –

in Gansu and Sichuan, for

instance – you may be required

to purchase insurance from

the People’s Insurance

Company of China (PICC)

before being allowed on a

bus. Usually, however, it is

included in the price of the

A basic long-distance bus (putong che) awaiting passengers, Qinghai ticket. This insurance waives

T R AV E L I N F O R M AT I O N 631

A ferry on the Huangpu River, sailing through Shanghai

any responsibility of the Canal between Suzhou and Shanghai is currently linked
to various towns and cities
government bus company Hangzhou, and Wuxi and along the Yangzi River,
including Nanjing and
should you be injured in a bus Hangzhou (see p217). Wuhan. Because of the
prohibitively long overland
crash; it does not cover you Popular coastal ferry routes routes, ferries link the
booming northeastern city of
in the event of an accident. include boats to Hainan Island Dalian with Yantai and
Tianjin. Yantai and Weihai on
BUS TICKETS & FARES from ports in the province the eastern tip of Shandong
peninsula are accessible from
of Guangdong (including Shanghai, Dalian, and Tianjin.
Note that ferry timetables
Guangzhou) and Beihai in change frequently and
services may have been
TRAVELING by road is Guangxi. A large number of added or terminated.
generally much cheaper vessels ply between Hong
Several international sea
than traveling by train. Tickets Kong and Macau, many of routes link China to other
countries. From Japan, Kobe
are sold at which are is connected to both Tianjin
and Shanghai on the east
long-distance high-speed coast, while ferries also link
Osaka with Shanghai. From
bus stations and operate South Korea, the port of
Inchon is connected to the
and, unless you Promotional river cruise sign round the Chinese ports of Dalian,
are hoping for outside tourist office clock. Macau is Weihai, Qingdao, and Tianjin.
a seat at the also connected

front of a luxury bus, do not to ports in Guangdong, while

need to be bought in Hong Kong is linked to

advance. Tickets for private Zhuhai and several ports on

buses and minibuses are the Pearl River delta. Within

either purchased on board the Hong Kong, a medley of

bus or from touts nearby. craft run to the outlying

Main bus stations invariably islands. There are quite a few

have computerized ticket vessels connecting Hong

offices, and the queues are Kong with the rest of China,

much shorter than those at although services are

train stations. becoming less frequent.

FERRIES & BOATS

ASMALL NETWORK of coastal Tourist boats docked on the vast Qinghai Lake
routes survives in China,
and vessels still ply the
Yangzi River, but the
increased convenience of
traveling by air, road, and rail
has reduced the variety and
frequency of sea- and river-
ferry sailings in China.

The most popular river
route is the trip along the
Yangzi between Chongqing
and Yichang, through the
Three Gorges (see pp352–4).
An overnight ferry service for
tourists runs along the Grand

632 S U RV I VA L G U I D E

Local Transport in Cities buy an Octopus card, an
electronic card that allows you
TRANSPORT OPTIONS vary greatly between to hop on and off most of the
cities in China. Many of the largest system. You can buy these for
metropolises have complex networks with a minimum of HK$150
including a HK$50 deposit,
subway systems, which, in many cases, which is refunded when you
return the card. Touch the card
Hong Kong’s are in the process of being extensively to the electronic reader at each
MTR logo expanded. In Beijing and Shanghai, the ticket collection point and the
subway (ditie) is the best way to get fare will be deducted from
your card. You can easily add
around, while in Hong Kong, the transport system is credit at MTR and KCR stations.

well integrated, and subways, trains, and buses are all The underground Mass
Transit Railway (MTR)
convenient options. In most cities, buses are slow and currently has seven lines, with
many more planned. The fare
usually packed, but are very cheap. Taxis (chuzu qiche) increases with distance
traveled, except on the
are a necessity for most travelers, and, despite the lan- Airport Express Line where a
higher fee is charged. If you
guage barrier and misunderstandings with drivers, are the buy a single ticket, insert it
into the turnstile and retrieve
most convenient way to get around. Bicycles once ruled it on the other side. Hold on
to your ticket as you will
the roads of China’s cities and although not as popular need it to exit the system. If
you have an Octopus card
today, they are still one of the best ways to explore. simply touch the card to the
yellow reader on the turnstile.
BEIJING’S SUBWAY 2 range between ¥2 and ¥4,
The Kowloon-Canton
depending on the number of Railway (KCR) now has three
lines that comprehensively
THE SUBWAY SYSTEM in Beijing stops traveled. Check the map cover the New Territories.
is undergoing major to determine your fare and KCR East Rail was the original
line and heads north into
development in preparation then buy a ticket from the mainland China. Do not go
past Sheung Shui (the second
for the 2008 Olympic Games. booth or machine. You can last stop), if you do not have
documentation to enter
Four lines are already built, also buy ¥50 pre-paid tickets. the mainland.

numerous lines are planned, Put your ticket into the slot at BUSES & TRAMS

and lines to Beijing the electronic barrier CITY BUS networks are
extensive and cheap. The
Capital Airport are and the gates will buses (gonggong qiche),
however, are almost always
under construction. open. Retrieve your overcrowded – so much so
that you are unlikely to be
The subway is a ticket on the other able to see out of the
windows. These conditions
swift way to get side of the gate and are perfect for thieves, so stay

around this spread- hold on to it – you Motor-rickshaw
for hire, Harbin
out city. The system is will need it to exit at

easy to use, although your destination.

walks between lines The much touted

at interchange stations Maglev (magnetic

can be long. Currently levitation) runs

there are two different Sign for Beijing between Pudong
fares: one ticket for ¥3 subway Airport and the

covers trips on lines 1 eastern end of Line 2

and 2; the ¥5 ticket covers and reaches speeds of 270

lines 2 and 13. Buy your miles per hour (430 km/h). It

paper ticket at the ticket may still be faster to take a

booth near the entrance. taxi from the airport because

Tickets are undated, so, if you the Maglev is not running

are in Beijing for a few days very frequently. Check the

and you plan to keep using times of departure.

lines 1 and 2, it makes sense HONG KONG’S MTR

to buy a few. Show your
ticket to the attendants at the & KCR

entrance to the platform. Line

I13 has automated ticket gates, NTEGRATED AND efficient,
Hong Kong has the best
as will any other lines that
open up in the next few years. public transportation system

SHANGHAI’S SUBWAY in the country. The city is

easy to get around using all

of its forms of transport –

THE SMALL, yet efficient, MTR (subway), KCR
Shanghai subway system (overland train), buses, trams,

is clean and new, with the first and ferries – and most

line built in 1995. Lines 1 and signage is in English. You can

2 are most useful to the tourist; buy single tickets for your

the raised Line 3, or Pearl Line, journeys, but each type of

travels the western outskirts of transit requires a separate

the city. Fares for Lines 1 and ticket. Alternatively, you can

T R AV E L I N F O R M AT I O N 633

(dabiao) or negotiate a flat and roadside repair stalls are

rate in advance. Taxis rarely everywhere. Beijing, with its

have rear seat belts (anquan spread-out sights and flat

dai), so sit in front if you are terrain, is the most cycle-able

traveling alone. Few taxi of the big cities, but if you are

drivers speak English, so it is not used to cycling in heavy

wise to have your destination traffic, you may find it an

written down in Chinese, intimidating experience. Make

which the staff at your hotel sure that any bike you rent

will gladly do for you. has a lock provided. Handy

Fares vary slightly from city bike stands are found in big

to city, but taxis generally cities and have an attendant

offer both good value and to watch the bikes for a

convenience. In many cities, nominal fee.

different models of cars will
have different rates. Tipping ROAD NAMES

Bicycles and motor scooters at the driver is not necessary.

an intersection, Guangzhou MTaxis can also be hired for AIN STREETS, avenues, and
thoroughfares are often
the day – a convenient way to
well-aware of your see sights just out of town. divided into different sections

belongings. Consider using Agree on a price beforehand, based on the four cardinal

buses only for short straight- and make sure your driver points. For example,

forward journeys. Avoid is clear on the extent of Zhongshan Lu (Zhongshan

them if you are trying to get your itinerary. Road) may be divided into

from one end of town to In Tibet, you Zhongshan Xi Lu (East Road)

the other – you are likely may find that and Zhongshan Dong Lu

to get stuck in traffic. hiring a jeep and driver (West Road). Similarly, you

Bus routes can be is the only way to get to may also see Zhongshan Bei

tricky to navigate, some sights. It is Lu (North Road) and

particularly as most routes customary to pay for the Zhongshan Nan Lu (South

and destinations are listed driver’s lunch. Road). Road names in large

in Chinese only. Hong In smaller towns, cities such as Beijing and

Kong has the most motorcycle rickshaws Shanghai also display the

comfortable and easy (sanlun motuoche) pinyin translation, but in

to use bus system, and bicycle rickshaws smaller towns and remote

although traffic can be (sanlun che) are a destinations, only Chinese is

as bad here as convenient and used. Apart from lu (road),

anywhere else. Hong entertaining way to other key words to look out

Kong also has an old Officer directing get around town. Do for are jie (street), dajie
tram line that runs not take these in (avenue, literally “big street”),
traffic

from Sheung Wan to major cities – they hutong and xiang (lane or

Causeway Bay on Hong cost about the same as a taxi. historic alleyway).

Kong Island. Dalian has a few In some small towns,

trams as well. Maps of bus they are the only form

and tram routes are widely of transport. Agree on

available, especially in and the fare before

around train stations. climbing aboard.

TAXIS Motorcycle taxis

are a very quick

way to cover longer

THE BEST WAY to get about in distances, although
cities that don’t have sub- they are really only
way systems is by taxi (chuzu practical if you are

qiche). Taxis are found in traveling alone with

large numbers in all Chinese little luggage. Insist on

cities – often congregating the driver providing

near train stations – and can you with a helmet.

be hailed easily in the street.
Guests staying at hotels can CYCLING

also ask the reception desk to

summon a taxi. When arriving IRING A BICYCLE is
one of the best
Hat airports, avoid the touts
who immediately surround ways to explore

you, and head instead to the towns and their

taxi rank outside where you environs. Bike lanes

are less likely to be over- are common

charged. Also, make sure (although not always Taxis and buses on a busy street in the

the driver uses the meter respected by drivers) center of Macau

634 GENERAL INDEX

General Index

Page numbers in bold type refer Anhui province (cont.) Astronomy
to main entries. Huizhou architecture 235 Ancient Observatory (Beijing)
map 203 94–5
A restaurants 588–9
Australian Embassy 617
Aba Grasslands 343 Ani Tsankhung Nunnery (Lhasa) Automated teller machines
Aba Khoja Mausoleum (Kashgar) 529
(ATMs) 598, 620
512–13 Animals Autumn in China 46–7
Abahai 62, 432, 438 astrology 43 Avian influenza 619
bites 619 Ayurbarwada 52
tomb of 439 see also Wildlife; Zoos
Abdur Rahman 491 B
Abercrombie and Kent 605, Anjue Lamasery (Kangding) 371
Annoyances 615 Ba culture 343
607 Anping Lu (Shantou) 296 Chongqing 350
Aberdeen 322 Anshun 400 Sanxingdui Museum 360
Aberdeen, Earl of 322 tombs 352
Abu Waqas 299, 301 batik 400
Acrobats 113 Antique Carpets (Beijing) 112, 113 Badaguan (Qingdao) 147
Acupressure 32 Antiques shops 599 Badaling 108
Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) Baggage allowances 625
Beijing 112, 113 Bai Causeway (Hangzhou) 243
619 customs information 611 Bai Juyi 28, 243
Admission charges 612 Hong Kong and Macau 330, Bai Long Dong (Wu Da Lian Chi)
Afghanistan 491 331
Agriculture Shanghai 200, 201 454
Anyang 72, 141, 152 Bai people 24, 343, 373
desertification 463 Aquariums
inventions 36 Beijing Zoo 99 Dali 386
rice 280–81 Sun Asia Ocean World hanging coffins 354
tea plantations 293 (Dalian) 444–5 Nanzhao Kingdom 388
Aidi emperor (Tang dynasty) 52 Archeology Bai Ta (Anshun) 400
Aidi emperor (Western Han Peking Man site 111 Bai Ta (Fuzhou) 292
dynasty) 52 Race for the Silk Road Oases Bai Ta (Hohhot) 469
AIDS 619 495 Bailuzhou Park (Nanjing) 222
Air China 625 Architecture 34–5 Baima Si (Luoyang) 152
Air France 625 Beijing’s courtyard houses 91 Baima Ta (Dunhuang) 494
Air pollution 18, 618 Dong architecture 421 Baisha 392
Air travel 624–7 earthen dwellings of Yongding Baishui Tai 395
advance booking 610 290 Baisikou Shuang Ta 476
domestic airports 626 Huizhou architecture 235 Baisui Gong (Jiuhua Shan) 234
international airports 624, 625 pagodas 165 Baita Shan Gongyuan (Lanzhou)
Ake people 384–5 Army Day 46, 47 484
Alcohol 615 Arrow Tower (Jian Lou, Beijing) Baiyi Si (Lanzhou) 485
Alexander the Great 491 84 Baiyu Hill (Dalian) 445
All Nippon Airways 625 Street-by-Street map 82 Ballet 41
Alligators 233 Arrow Towers (Forbidden City) 89 Bamboo 21, 411
Altai 508 Arrow War (1856–58) 63 Bangchuidao Scenic Area 444
Altitude sickness 619 Art Museum (Guangzhou) 301 Bank of China 620
Altyn Mosque (Yarkand) 515 Arts and crafts Bank of China (Hong Kong) 310
Alvares, Jorge 327 bamboo 411 Bank of China (Shanghai) 187
Aman Isa Khan calligraphy 219 Bank notes 621
tomb of 515 cave paintings of Dunhuang Banking 620–21
Ambulances 617 496–7 Banla Village 382
Amdo 479 jade 515 Banquets 578–9
American Express 620 lacquerware 292 Banruo Temple (Changchun)
Amethyst 218 Miao people 406–7 446
Amherst, Lord 63 modern arts 40–41 Baoding Shan 357
Amoy see Xiamen porcelain 254–5 carvings of Dazu 356–7
Amur river 474 Shanghai 200, 201 Baofeng Hu (Wulingyuan) 265
An Lushan, General 57 silk 208–9 Baoguang Si 360
An Lushan rebellion 57, 58 traditional arts 38–9 Baoguo Si (Emei Shan) 362
Ancient Observatory (Beijing) What to Buy in China 601 Baoguo Si (Ningbo) 246
94–5 Arts venues Baopu Daoist Temple
Ancient Pottery Factory Beijing 113 (Hangzhou) 240
(Jingdezhen) 255 Hong Kong 332, 333 Baoshan 388–9
Andi emperor 52 Ashoka 170 Baoshu Ta (Hangzhou) 240
Anhui province 177, 203 Astana 505 Baotou 470
food and drink 181 Astrology 43 “Barbarians” 72
hotels 561 Bargaining 598, 615

GENERAL INDEX 635

Barkhor (Lhasa) 530–31 Beijing and the North 69–171 Bishu Shanzhuang (Chengde) 123
Bars 603 food and drink 76–7 Bita Hai 395
Great Wall of China 106–8 Bixia Si (Tai Shan) 144
Beijing 113 Hebei, Tianjin, and Shanxi Biyun Temple (Beijing) 103
Hong Kong 332, 333 121–39 Black Dragon Pool (Lijiang)
Shanghai 201 hotels 554–9
Basketball 604, 607 map 70–71 380–81, 392
Batik Portrait of Beijing and the Black Dragon Pool (Lu Shan) 253
Anshun 400 North 72–3 Black Tiger Spring (Ji’nan) 142
Bayi Park (Nanchang) 250 restaurants 582–6 Bo Gu 257
Bazaar (Turpan) 504 Shaanxi 161–71 Bo Hai (Bo Sea) 72
Bazi Qiao (Shaoxing) 246 Shandong and Henan 141–59 Bo Ya 267
Beaches 604–5 Boats
Beidaihe 128 Beijing Botanical Gardens 103
Dalian 444 Beijing Curio City 112, 113 ferries 631
Deep Water and Repulse Bays Beijing Natural History Museum Grand Canal 217
323 Li river cruise 416–17
Gangzaihou Beach (Gulang 95 Yangzi cruise 352–4
Yu) 287 Beijing Opera 74–5, 113, 602 Bodhidarma
Hainan Island 305 Beijing Silk Store 112, 113 Baoguang Si 360
Qian Bu Sha (Putuo Shan) 249 Beijing Zoo 99 Forest of Stelae Museum
Qingdao 147 Beishan Park (Jilin) 447 (Xi’an) 162
Sai Kung Town and Peninsula Beisi Ta (Suzhou) 204 Guangzhou 298, 299
Beaches (Hong Kong) 320–21 Beiyue Si (Yulong) 392 Shaoguan 303
Stanley 323 Bell Tower (Beijing) 92 Shaolin Boxing 158, 159
Weihai 149 Bell Tower (Nanjing) 226–7 Bon religion 520, 522
Yantai 148 Bell Tower (Pingyao) 139 Book shops
Yin Tan (Silver Beach) 425 Bell Tower (Wuwei) 490 Beijing 112, 113
Beer Bell Tower (Xi’an) 163 Borjijit, Empress 439
Tsingtao 146 Bendiwan 394 Bourbon Street (Shanghai) 201
What to Drink in China 581 Bertolucci, Bernardo 431, 446 Boutiques 599
Begging 615 Bethune, Norman 130 Bouyi people 399, 400
Bei river 454 Bezeklik Caves 495, 505 Boxer Rebellion (1900) 63, 433
Bei Shan 357 Bhrikuti, Princess 528, 532, 533 Drum Tower (Beijing) 92
Bei Shan Si (Xining) 498 Bicycles 606, 633 Empress Cixi and 101
Beidaihe 128, 604 Big Buddha (Lantau Island) 325 Qian Men (Beijing) 84
Beigu Shan (Zhenjiang) 218 Big Dragon Pool Falls (Yandang South Cathedral (Beijing) 85
Beihai 425, 604 Southeast Corner Watchtower
Beihai Park (Beijing) 90 Shan) 247 (Beijing) 95
Beijing 73, 79–119 Bijia Shan 440 Summer Palace (Beijing) 100
air travel 625, 627 Bike China Adventures 606, 607 Bozhou 233
banks 620 Bilian Feng (Yangshuo) 418 Braun, Otto 410
city walls 84 Bing Di emperor 53 Britain
climate 49 Bingling Si 458, 486 The “Great Game” 491, 543
courtyard houses 91 Bingyu Valley 437, 441 in Hong Kong 307
embassies 617 Binyang San Dong (Longmen invasion of Tibet 543
entertainment 112–13 Opium Wars 63, 278
Forbidden City 34, 86–9, 432–3 Caves) 155 and Shanghai 183
hospitals 617 Bird flu 619 tea trade 293
hotels 554–6 Birds British Airways 625
map 80–81 Bronze Age 51
in Ming dynasty 61 Bird and Flower Market Bronze Pavilion (Summer Palace,
Ming Tombs: Chang Ling (Kunming) 374 Beijing) 100, 102
104–5 Bird Market (Hong Kong) 317 Buddha 30, 31
Olympic Games 604 Cao Hai 402 Buddha Bar (Shanghai) 201
Public Security Bureau (PSB) cormorant fishing 418 Buddha’s Birthday 45
611 cranes 403 Buddhism 30, 31, 487
restaurants 582 Edward Youde Aviary (Hong Bezeklik Caves 505, 522–3
shopping 112–13 Kong) 333 Bingling Si 486
skiing 605 Mai Po Marshes 321 Buddhist Grottoes (Gongyi) 158
Street Finder 114–19 Ocean Park (Hong Kong) 323 carvings of Dazu 356–7
subway 632 Qinghai Hu 499 cave paintings of Dunhuang
Summer Palace 100–102 specialist holidays 607 496–7
Temple of Heaven 96–7 Yingxiong Shan (Gulang Yu) Caves of the Three Immortals
Tian’an Men Square: Street-by- 287 (Kashgar) 511
Street map 82–3 Zhalong Nature Reserve 452 Chan (Zen) Buddhism 159,
see also Wildlife 358, 487
Birthday of Tin Hau (Hong
Kong) 333
Bishan Si (Wutai Shan) 136

636 GENERAL INDEX

Buddhism (cont.) Calendar 44, 613 Caves (cont.)
Da Zhao (Hohhot) 469 California Club (Shanghai) 201 Dragon Gate Grotto (Western
Dafo (Le Shan) 364–7 Calligraphy 27, 219 Hills) 377
Eight Auspicious Symbols 542 Dripping Water Cave (Shao
Emei Shan 362–3 What to Buy in China 600 Shan) 260
Famen Temple (Xi’an) 170 Camera shops Guangxi 607
Fayuan Temple (Beijing) 98 Huanglong Dong
Fulu Buddhist Nunnery Hong Kong and Macau 330, (Wulingyuan) 265
(Sanjiang) 420 331 Kamikaze Caves (Lamma
Great Bell Temple (Beijing) 103 Camões, Luis Vaz de 326 Island) 324
Han dynasty 54, 55 Camping 550–51 Karst Caves (Yixing County)
Hualin Si (Guangzhou) 298 trekking and camping holidays 218
108 Dagobas 477 607 karst landscape 412–13
Jade Buddha Temple Canadian Embassy 617 Longgong Dong 400–401
(Shanghai) 196 Cang Jie 26 Longmen Caves 141, 154–7
Jing’an Temple (Shanghai) 196 Cang Xin 40 Ludi Yan (Guilin) 415
Jiuhua Shan 234 Canglang Ting (Suzhou) 210–11 Mahao Cave Tombs (Le Shan)
Labrang Monastery 482, 483 Cangyan Shan 130 365
Lama Temple (Beijing) 92–3 Canidrome (Macau) 332, 333 Maiji Shan 480–81
Liu Rong Si (Guangzhou) 299 Canton see Guangzhou Mogao Caves 461, 495, 497
Longmen Caves 154–7 Cantonese cuisine 282 Shizi Yan 303
Luohan Si (Chongqing) 350 Cantonese language 279 Thousand Buddha Caves
Maiji Shan 480–81 Cao Hai 397, 402 (Kizil) 509
Manfeilong Ta 385 Cao shu calligraphy 27 Tianlong Shan Grottoes
Manjusri 135 Cao Xueqin 90 (Taiyuan) 137
Puning Si (Chengde) 124–5 Card phones 622 Tianxing 401
Putuo Shan 248–9 Cards, business 614 Water Curtain Thousand
Qixia Si (Nanjing) 231 Carpets Buddha Caves (Luomen) 482
Shaolin Temple 158 Beijing shops 112, 113 Wu Da Lian Chi 454
10,000 Buddhas Monastery Gang Gyen Carpet Factory Xumi Shan Caves 467, 476
(Hong Kong) 320 (Shigatse) 544 Yangshuo 418–19, 607
Thousand Buddha Cliffs Carvings Yungang Caves 131, 132–3
(Nanjing) 231 Bingling Si 486 Zhijin Dong 401
Thousand Buddha Mountain Dazu 356–7
(Ji’nan) 142 Maiji Shan 480–81 Caving 607
Tianlong Shan Grottoes Cathay Pacific 625 Cemeteries see Tombs and
(Taiyuan) 137 Cathedrals
Tiantai Buddhist sect 247 Our Lady of China (Shanghai) cemeteries
Water Curtain Thousand 199 Central China 173–273
Buddha Caves (Luomen) 482 Ruinas de São Paulo (Macau)
Xumi Shan Caves 476 326 food and drink 180–81
Yuantong Si (Kunming) 374 South Cathedral (Beijing) 85 hotels 559
Yungang Caves 132–3 Wang Hai Lou Cathedral Hunan and Hubei 259–73
see also Tibetan Buddhism (Tianjin) 129 Jiangsu and Anhui 203–37
Xi Kai Cathedral (Tianjin) 129 map 174–5
Budget hotels 550 Xujiahui Catholic Cathedral peoples 25
Bulang Shan 385 (Shanghai) 199 Portrait of Central China
Bund (Shanghai) 176, 183, see also Churches 176–7
Catholic Church restaurants 586–90
186–7, 195, 197 Catholic Church (Jilin) 447 Shanghai 183–201
Bunu people 397 Our Lady of Lourdes (Shamian traditional Chinese gardens
Bupan Aerial Walkway (Mengla) Island) 301 178–9
Sacred Heart Church Zhejiang and Jiangxi 239–57
384 (Guangzhou) 298 Central Highlands (Hainan
Burma see Myanmar South Cathedral (Beijing) 85 Island) 304
Burma Road 377 Xujiahui Catholic Cathedral Central, Hong Kong 310
Buses 630–31 (Shanghai) 199 Central Plaza (Hong Kong) 310
Causeway Bay (Hong Kong) 311 Ceramics
airport 625, 626–7 Caves Ancient Pottery Factory
city buses 632–3 Bei Shan 357 (Jingdezhen) 255
long-distance 630–31 Bezeklik Caves 495, 505 Ciqi Kou (Chongqing) 351
Business cards 614 Bingling Si 486 Foshan 302
Bykal, Lake 435 carvings of Dazu 356–7 inventions 36, 37
cave paintings of Dunhuang Museum of Ceramic History
C 487, 496–7 (Jingdezhen) 255
Caves of the Three Immortals porcelain 37, 254–5
C Bar (Hong Kong) 332, 333 (Kashgar) 511 Porcelain Museum
C Club (Hong Kong) 332, 333 (Jingdezhen) 255
Cafés, internet 622
Cai Lun 26

GENERAL INDEX 637

Ceramics (cont.) Chiang Kai Shek (cont.) Churches (cont.)
Terracotta Army 54, 73, 161, Linggu Pagoda (Nanjing) 229, St. Michael’s Church
168–9 230 (Qingdao) 146
traditional arts 38 Lu Shan 252, 253 see also Cathedrals
What to Buy in China 600 Nanjing 177, 223
Ci’an, Empress 109
Chain hotels 553 Children 613 Cinema see Film
Chan, Jackie 41, 159 entertainment in Hong Kong Ciping 257
Chan (W.W.) & Sons Tailor Ltd and Macau 332–3 Ciqi Kou (Chongqing) 351
in hotels 553 Circuses 602–3
(Shanghai) 200, 201 Cishi Ta (Wulingyuan) 261
Chan (Zen) Buddhism 159, 358, Children’s Day 45 Citibank 620
Children’s Palace (Shanghai) 194 City God Temple (Shanghai) 192
487 China Eastern Airlines 627 City Museum (Kunming) 375
Chang Ling (Beijing) 104–5 China Information Travel Service City walls 35
Chang Tang 524, 527
Chang’an see Xi’an (CITS) 612 Chaozhou 296
Changbai Shan 437, 448–9 China National Museum (Beijing) Nanjing 224–5
Changbai Waterfall 448 Pingyao 35, 138
Changchun 431, 437, 446 Street-by-Street map 83 Xi’an 162
China Northwest Airlines 627 Zhaoqing 302
hotels 570 China Southern Airlines 627 Civil Aviation Administration of
restaurants 595 China Super League 604, 607 China (CAAC) 626, 627
Changchun Guan (Wuhan) 266 Chinese Medicine Museum Civil War 66
Changjiao Miao people 406 Cixi, Empress Dowager 63, 101,
Changsha 259, 260 (Hangzhou) 240 433
hotels 563 Chinese Military History Museum Beijing Opera 74
restaurants 590 Boxer Rebellion 433
Changzhou 218 (Beijing) 99 Summer Palace (Beijing)
Chaotian Gong (Nanjing) 223 Chinese New Year 42, 47, 333 100–102
Chaotian Men (Chongqing) 350 Chinnery, George 326 tomb of 109
Chaoyang Theater (Beijing) 113 Chishui 410 Xi’an 164
Chaozhou 296 Chong’an 409 Climate 48–9
food and drink 283 Chongdi emperor 52 cold weather 618
Chapel of the Three Ages Chongqing 343, 349, 350–51 heat and humidity 618
(Lhasa) 536 when to go 610
Charles V, King of France 465 hotels 568 Climbing 606–7
Chatwin, Bruce 392 map 349, 351 Clothes
Chen clan 300 pollution of Yangzi river 268 in cold weather 618
Chen Jia Ci (Guangzhou) 300 restaurants 594 etiquette 614
Chen Kaige 41 Chongqing Museum Hong Kong and Macau shops
Chen Yi (Chongqing) 350 331
statue of (Shanghai) 187 Chongqing Si (Lanzhou) 485 in hot weather 618
Chengde 121, 122–5 Chongshan Si (Taiyuan) 73, 137 Shanghai shops 200, 201
hotels 556 Chongwu 285, 291 what to take 610
Puning Si 123, 124–5 Chongxi Ta (Zhaoqing) 302 women travelers 616
restaurants 584 Chongyang (Double-ninth) Cloud Dispelling Gate (Summer
Chengdi emperor 52 Festival 47 Palace, Beijing) 102
Chengdu 343, 349, 358–9 Chongzhen emperor 52 Club 64 (Hong Kong) 332
climate 48 Forbidden City 88 Club 97 (Hong Kong) 332, 333
hotels 567 Jing Shan Park (Beijing) 90 Le Club at La Maison (Shanghai)
map 359 Chongzheng Hall (Shenyang) 438 201
restaurants 593–4 Chopsticks 579 Clubs
Chenghua emperor 52 Christianity Beijing 113
Chenghuang Miao (Zhengzhou) Nestorian Christianity 162 Hong Kong 332, 333
152 see also Cathedrals; Churches Shanghai 201
Chengyang 421 Christmas Day 47 Coasts, landscape and wildlife 23
Cheung Ah Tse 314–15 Chuandixia 111 Coins 621
Cheung Chau Bun Festival 333 Chunhuan Park (Jinghong) 382 Cold weather 618
Cheung Chau Island 324 Churches Coleridge, Samuel Taylor 474
Cheung Po-Tsai 324 Catholic Church (Jilin) 447 Communications 622–3
Cheung Sha 325 Church of St. Sofia (Harbin) 450 Communist Party 16–17, 66
Chiang Kai Shek 198, 199, 297, Mu’en Tang (Shanghai) 188 cult of Mao 262–3
304 Our Lady of Lourdes (Shamian Cultural Revolution 64–5
Chongqing 351 Island) 301 festivals 44, 46
flees to Taiwan 66–7 Protestant Church (Qingdao) and Guandong Communist
and Guandong Communist 146 uprising 298
uprising 298 Russian Orthodox Church
Jinggang Shan 257 (Shanghai) 196
Sacred Heart Church
(Guangzhou) 298
St. Joseph’s Church (Beijing) 94

638 GENERAL INDEX

Communist Party (cont.) Cui Jian 41 Dali (cont.)
Hongyuan Cun (Chongqing) Cuiheng 302 pagodas 165, 386–7
351 Cuiwei Yuan (Guiyang) 398 restaurants 594
Jinggang Shan 257 Cultural Centre (Hong Kong)
and literature 29 Dali Museum (Dali) 386
Long March 66, 256–7, 371 332, 333 Dali Sutra Pillar (Kunming) 375
Longhua Cemetery of Martyrs Cultural Revolution 64–5, 67 Dalian 431, 437, 444–5
(Shanghai) 199
People’s Republic of China arts and 40 hotels 570
founded 66–7 Chuandixia 111 map 445
Shanghai 177 cult of Mao 262–3 Public Security Bureau (PSB)
Site of the First National and literature 29 611
Congress of the Chinese and religion 30 restaurants 595–6
Communist Party (Shanghai) Shanghai 177 Daluo 385
194 in Tibet 521 Damenglong 385
Zunyi Conference 410 Culture Club (Macau) 331 Daming Hu (Ji’nan) 142
Currency 620–21 Daming Si (Yangzhou) 220
Computer shops currency exchange 620 Dance, traditional 603
Hong Kong and Macau 330, duty-free allowances 611 Dandong 431, 437, 440–41
331 Customs see etiquette hotels 570
Customs House (Shanghai) 186 restaurants 596
Confucian Temple (Suzhou) 211 Customs House (Wuhan) 267 Daning river 353
Confucianism 30, 51 Customs information 611 Danxia Shan 303
Cycle China 606 Daode Guan (Zhangye) 490
Fuzi Miao (Nanjing) 222 Cycling 633 Daoguang emperor 53
Han dynasty 54 Cynical Realism school 40 Daoism 30, 31, 51
literature 28 Dong Yue Miao (Beijing) 93
Wenchang Ge (Yangzhou) 221 D Eight Immortals 149
Confucius 28, 30, 54, 141, 143, Eight Immortals Temple
578–9 Da Hua Miao people 402, 406 (Xi’an) 161, 164
birthplace 73, 142–3 Da Wang Feng 292 Empress of Heaven 149
Confucius’ Birthday 46 Da Xiangguo Si (Kaifeng) 150 Fung Ying Sin Koon (New
Tai Shan 145 Da Zhao (Hohhot) 469 Territories) 321
and the Yijing 33 Dabei Monastery (Tianjin) 129 Han dynasty 54, 55
Confucius Forest (Qufu) 143 Dacheng Lamo Kerti Gompa Heng Shan 261
Confucius Mansion (Qufu) 142–3 Hua Shan 171
Confucius Temple (Beijing) 93 (Langmusi) 482 literature 28
Confucius Temple (Jilin) 447 Dadonghai 305 qi 32
Confucius Temple (Qufu) 143 Dadu river 256, 371 Qingcheng Shan 368
Confucius Temple (Tianjin) 129 Dafo (Le Shan) 364–7 Qingyang Gong (Chengdu) 358
Consulates 611 Dafo Si (Shijiazhuang) 130 Songshan 158
Convention & Exhibition Centre Dafo Si (Zhangye) 490 tai ji quan (Tai Chi) 273
(Hong Kong) 310–11, 332, 333 Dagobas, 108 (Ningxia) 477 Tai Shan 144–5
Conversion charts 613 Daguan Pavilion (Lake Dian) 377 traditional Chinese gardens 178
Corban Festival 47 Dai Miao (Tai Shan) 145 traditional medicine 232
Cormorant fishing 418 Dai people 24, 341, 383 White Clouds Temple (Beijing)
Cotton Club (Shanghai) 200, 201 98–9
County Yamen (Pingyao) 138 Dai Minority Park 382 Wudang Shan 272
Courier services 623 Xishuangbanna 383, 384 Xuanmiao Guan (Suzhou) 205
Courtyard houses, Beijing 91 Daizong emperor 52 The Dar (Shanghai) 201
Cow Street Mosque (Beijing) 98 Dakong Shan 389 Datong 121, 131
Coward, Noel 311 Dalai Hu 474 hotels 556
Craft shops Dalai Lamas 520 restaurants 584
Beijing 112, 113 Beihai Park (Beijing) 90 Daur people 454
Hong Kong and Macau 330–31 exile in India 521 David’s Shirts (Hong Kong) 331
Crafts see Arts and crafts Ganden Palace (Lhasa) 536 Daxu
Cranes (birds) 403 Lukhang (Lhasa) 528 Li river cruise 416
Zhalong Nature Reserve 452 Norbulingka (Lhasa) 529 Daxue Shan
Credit cards 598, 620–21 Pelkor Chode Monastery Long March 256
Crescent Moon Lake 460 (Gyantse) 543 Dazhalan (Beijing) 85
Crime 616 Potala Palace (Lhasa) 534–5 Dazhen 382
Crowne Plaza 553 Samye Monastery 541 Dazheng Hall (Shenyang) 438
Cruises Summer Palace (Lhasa) 529 Dazu, carvings of 349, 356–7
Li river cruise 416–17 Tashilunpo Monastery Deep Water Bay 323
Yangzi cruise 352–4 (Shigatse) 544–5 Dehydration 618
Crystal Palace (Wu Da Lian Chi) Tibetan Oracle 536–7 Deities, Buddhist 523
454 Yellow Hat Sect 134 Democracy movement 67
Cui Hu Gongyuan (Kunming) 374 Dali 343, 373, 386–8
hotels 568
map 387

GENERAL INDEX 639

Deng Xiaoping 15, 67, 296 Double-ninth (Chongyang) East China Sea 176
Deng Yingchao 351 Festival 47 East Tomb (Shenyang) 439
Dengfeng 158 Eastern Han dynasty 52, 54–5
Department stores 599 Doupotang Falls 401 Eastern Palaces (Forbidden City)
Dragon Boat Festivals 45, 333, 407
Beijing 112, 113 Dragon Culture (Hong Kong) 88–9
Hong Kong 330, 331 Eastern Qing Tombs 109
Departure tax, air travel 625 330, 331 Eastern Zhou dynasty 51, 53
Deserts Dragon Gate Grotto (Western Edward Youde Aviary (Hong
Chang Tang 527
desertification 463 Hills) 377 Kong) 333
Gobi Desert 73, 470 Dragon Head Hill Eight Auspicious Symbols 542
landscape and wildlife 21 Eight Banners 430
Taklamakan Desert 461, 494, Li river cruise 417 Eight Immortals Temple (Xi’an)
503, 515 Dragon Head Rock (Wudang
Detian Falls 397, 425 161, 164
Dezong emperor 52 Shan) 272 18 September Museum
DHL Worldwide Express 623 Dragon I (Hong Kong) 332, 333
Di Tan Park (Beijing) 93 Dragon King Temple (Summer (Shenyang) 438
Dialects 612 Electricity 613
Dialling codes 623 Palace, Beijing) 102 Electronics shops
Dian, Kingdom of 342, 373 Dragonair 627
Dian, Lake 377 Dragons 88 Hong Kong and Macau 330,
Diaoshuilou Pubu (Jingpo Hu) Dragon’s Head Cliff (Lu Shan) 252 331
452 Drepung Monastery (Lhasa) 536 Elephant Trunk Hill
Diarrhea 618 Drinks see Food and drink Li river cruise 416
Ding Ling (Beijing) 105 Dripping Water Cave (Shao Elephants
Ding Shan 218 Sanchahe Elephant Reserve 382
Dinghu Shan 302 Shan) 260 Embassies 611, 617
Dinosaur Museum (Zigong) 355 Drop (Hong Kong) 332, 333 Emei Shan 349, 362–3
Dinosaurs see Fossils Drugs, prescription 617 hotels 568
Disabled travelers 553, 612 Drum Tower (Beijing) 92 Emergencies 617
Discos 603 Drum Tower (Nanjing) 226–7 Emin, Prince 504
Discounts Drum Tower (Sanjiang) 420 Empress of Heaven 149
air travel 625, 627 Drum Tower (Xi’an) 163 Engels, Friedrich 297
in hotels 551 Drum Tower (Zhongwei) 476 English language 612
Discovery Bay 325 Drums, Dongson 423, 424 Entertainment 602–3
Diseases 618–19 Du Fu 28, 56, 58 Beijing 112–13
immunization 611, 619 Hong Kong and Macau 332–3
Disneyland, Hong Kong 325, Du Fu’s Thatched Cottage Shanghai 200–201
332, 333 (Chengdu) 358 Environmental problems 607
Divine Cliffs (Yandang Shan) Du Ta (Manting) 384 desertification 463
177, 247 Du Wen Xiu 386 Three Gorges Dam 268
Divine Peaks (Yandang Shan) 247 Du Wenya 440 Er Hai 342, 388
Dixia Senlin 452 Du Yuesheng 189 map 387
Doctors 617 Duan, Prince 433 Er Hai Park 388
Dog meat 399 Duanzong emperor 53 Er Shi emperor 53
Dong Hu (Shaoxing) 246 Dujiangyan 368–9 Erwang Miao (Dujiangyan) 369
Dong people Dunhuang 494 The Escalator (Hong Kong) 314
architecture 420, 421 cave paintings of Dunhuang Ethnic minorities 18–19, 24–5
Guizhou and Guangxi 397 479, 487, 496–7 food and drink 577
Dong Yue Miao (Beijing) 93 hotels 571 River Border 455
Dongba religion 393 Mogao Caves 461, 495, 497 see also individual peoples
Dongba Research Institute restaurants 596 Etiquette 614–15
(Lijiang) 392 silk paintings 57 food and drink 578–9
Donghai Park (Dalian) 444 Dunhuang Gucheng 494 Everest, Mount 527
Donghe (Baotou) 470 Duoyun Xuan (Shanghai) 200, 201 base camp 521, 546–7
Dongjiang cooking 283 Dutong 421 Ewenki people 455
Dongshan Ling 304 Duty-free allowances 611 Exchange rates 620
Dongsheng 470 Duxiu Feng (Guilin) 415 Exports, customs information 611
Dongson drums 423, 424 Duzong emperor 53
Dongting Hu 259, 261 Dye, D.S. 359 F
Dongxiang people 484, 507 Dynasties 52–3
Dormitories 550 see also individual dynasties Face (Shanghai) 201
security 616 Dysentery 619 Face saving, etiquette 614
Dost Mohammed 491 Dzong (Gyantse) 543 Famen Temple (Xi’an) 170
Dzong (Shigatse) 544 Fan Pagoda (Kaifeng) 151
Fang Lijun, Series 2 No. 2 40–41
E Fanpai 408
Fast food 577
E-mail facilities 622 Fayu Si (Putuo Shan) 249
E’Ang Zongzhe 483
Earthen dwellings of Yongding

290

640 GENERAL INDEX

Fayuan Temple (Beijing) 98 Food and drink (cont.) Furniture Museum (Pingyao) 138
Federal Express 623 Macau 329 Furongzhen 261
Feilai 303 rice 280–81 Fuxing Lu (Dali) 386
Feixia 303 Sheung Wan’s Markets (Hong Fuxing Park (Shanghai) 194
Feiyun Dong 409 Kong) 315 Fuzhou 285, 292
Felix (Hong Kong) 332, 333 South China 282–3
Fen river 137 Southwest China 346–7 hotels 564
Feng shui 33 stomach upsets 618 restaurants 590
Fengcong karst 413, 417 The Story of Tea 293 Fuzi Miao (Nanjing) 222
Fenghuan Ta (Chaozhou) 296 street food 576
Fenghuang Shan 441 symbolism 575 G
Fenghuang Shan Lu Revolution Tsingtao beer 146
What to Drink in China 580–81 Galleries see Museums and
Headquarters Site (Yan’an) 171 see also Restaurants galleries
Fenghuang Song (Jiuhua Shan)
Football (soccer) 602, 604 Gallery One (Hong Kong) 330,
234 Forbidden City 34, 61, 86–9, 331
Fenglin karst 413
Fengxian Si (Longmen Caves) 154 432–3 Gambling
Ferries 631 Visitors’ Checklist 87 Hong Kong 332, 333
Festivals 44–7 Foreign Languages Bookshop
(Beijing) 94, 112, 113 Games, in public parks 602
good luck and prosperity 42–3 Forest of Stelae Museum (Xi’an) Gancha Grasslands 482
Hong Kong 333 162 Ganden Monastery (Lhasa) 520,
Miao people 406–7, 409 Forests, Northeast China 22
Fifth Moon Festival 45 Former Headquarters of the 527, 537, 538–9
Film 40, 603 Hubei Military Government Ganden Palace (Lhasa) 536
Beijing 112–13 (Wuhan) 266 Gang of Four 65, 67, 177
festivals 45 Formula One Grand Prix 604, 607 Gang Gyen Carpet Factory
Kung Fu film industry 159 Forrest, George 344, 345
Shanghai 201 Fortaleza do Monte (Macau) 326 (Shigatse) 544
Fire services 617 Fortress (Hong Kong) 330, 331 Gangzaihou Beach (Gulang Yu)
Fireworks 42–3 Foshan 302
Firing range 606 Foshan Folk Art Studio (Foshan) 287
First-aid kit 618 302 Ganlaba 382
Fish & Flower Market (Shanghai) Fossils 453 Gansu province 460, 461, 479
188–9 Dinosaur Museum (Zigong) 355
Fisherman’s Wharf (Macau) 328 Inner Mongolia Museum hotels 571
Fishing, cormorant 418 (Hohhot) 468 map 479
Fitzgerald, Lieutenant 326 Wenya Museum (Jinzhou) 440 restaurants 596–7
Five-colored Pool Foster, Sir Norman 310 Gansu Provincial Museum
Jiuzhai Gou tour 370 Founding of Chinese Communist (Lanzhou) 485
Five Dynasties 52, 58 Party Day 46 Gantong Si (Dali) 387
5-Level Double Ship Lock (Three Four Points by Sheraton 553 Gao Miao (Zhongwei) 476
Gorges Dam) 269 Four Seasons 553 Gao Ming, General 375
Five Rams Statue (Guangzhou) Fragrant Isle (Suzhou) 206 Gao Xingjian 28
301 French Concession (Shanghai) Gao Zhishen 377
Flaming Mountains (Turpan) 505 194 Gaochang Gucheng 505
Flood Control Monument French Legation (Kunming) 374 Gaochang Ruins 495
(Harbin) 450 Friendship Highway 521, 546, 547 Gaodi emperor 52, 54
Flower Market (Hong Kong) Friendship Stores 599 Gaoding 421
317 Beijing 112, 113 Gaozong emperor 52, 53, 57,
Flower Theater (Bozhou) 233 Shanghai 200, 201 164, 170
Flowers see Parks and gardens; Fringe Club (Hong Kong) 332, 333 Gaozu emperor 52
Plants Frost bite 618 Garden of Harmonious Pleasures
Fo Si (Manting) 384 Fubo Shan (Guilin) 415 (Summer Palace, Beijing) 101
Foguang Si (Wutai Shan) 136 Fuguo Si (Lijiang) 392 Garden Tomb of Puhaddin
Folk Culture Village (Shenzhen) Fujian province 278, 285–93 (Yangzhou) 221
296 hotels 564 Garden of Virtue and Harmony
Food and drink 19 map 285 (Summer Palace, Beijing) 101,
alcohol 615 restaurants 590–1 102
Beijing and the North 76–7 Fujiazhuang Scenic Area 444–5 Gardens see Parks and gardens
Central China 180–81 Fuli Village 419 Gasa 385
customs and etiquette 578–9 Fulu Buddhist Nunnery Gate of Divine Prowess
dog meat 399 (Sanjiang) 420 (Forbidden City) 89
festivals 43 Fung Ying Sin Koon (New Gate of Heavenly Purity
grapes and wine 506 Territories) 321 (Forbidden City) 34, 88
“little eats” 577 Gate of Supreme Harmony
(Forbidden City) 86
Gay and lesbian travelers 616–17
Ge Yuan (Yangzhou) 220
Geija Miao people 406, 407, 409
Gelanghe 384–5
Gelugpa sect see Yellow Hat Sect

GENERAL INDEX 641

Genden Drup 544 Great Purity Palace (Lao Shan) Guia Fort and Lighthouse
General Post Office 623 147 (Macau) 326
Genghis Khan 52, 60, 461,
Great Wall of China 15, 54, 72, Guilin 343, 397, 413, 414–17
462–3, 471 106–8 hotels 569
and Beijing 79 Great Wall Museum Li river cruise 416–17
Genghis Khan’s Mausoleum (Jiayuguan) 490 map 415
(Dongsheng) 470, 471 Hexi Corridor 479 Visitors’ Checklist 415
Inner Mongolia Museum Hushan Great Wall (Dandong)
(Hohhot) 468 441 Guiping 422–3
Geology, karst 412–13 Jiayuguan Fort 492–3 Guiyang 398–9
George III, King of England 433 map 107
German Concession (Qingdao) in Ming dynasty 61, 106–7 hotels 569
146 Shanhaiguan 128 map 399
Ginseng 448 Xuanbi Changcheng 490 restaurants 595
Giordano (Hong Kong) 331 Guiyuan Si (Wuhan) 267
Glacier, Hailou Gou 371 Great World Entertainment Guizhou province 342, 343, 397
Glamour Bar (Shanghai) 201 Center (Shanghai) 188, 197 food and drink 347
Gobi Desert 73, 470 hotels 569–70
G.O.D. (Hong Kong) 331 Green Gang 194 map 397
Golden Mile (Hong Kong) 316 Greeting people 614 restaurants 595
Golden Water (Forbidden City) Grünwedel, Albert 505 Gulang Yu 286–7
86 Gu Hua 261 map 287
Golf 604 Gu Nan Men (Guilin) 414 Gulong Si (Huanglong Xi) 368
Golmud 479, 499 Gu Shan 292 Gulou (Yinchuan) 475
hotels 572 Guan Yu, General 29, 152, 268, Gulou (Zhangye) 490
Gong, Prince Gunzhong Pass 476
Mansion of Prince Gong 354 Guo Xi 220
(Beijing) 90 Guang Wudi emperor 52, 54 Guoqing Si (Tiantai Shan) 247
Gong Li 139 Guangdong Communist uprising Guqin Tai (Wuhan) 267
Gongdi emperor 53 Gusong Qiao (Songpan) 369
Gongqing Forest Park (Shanghai) 298 Guyuan 467, 476
195 Guangdong province 278, 295 Gyantse 543
Gongtang Pagoda 483 hotels 573
Gongyi 158 hotels 565
Gongzong emperor 53 map 295 H
Good luck and prosperity 42–3 restaurants 591
Goodfellas (Shanghai) 201 Guanghan Dong 401 Ha Noi Ruins (Kashgar) 511
Gorgeous Arts and Crafts (Hong Guanghua Lu (Tengchong) 389 Hai Rui 304
Kong) 330, 331 Guangji Men (Chaozhou) 296 Haibao Ta (Yinchuan) 475
Government shops 599 Guangji Si (Wuhu) 233 Haidong 388
Governor’s Residence (Qingdao) Guangxi province 342, 343, 397 Haigeng Park (Lake Dian) 377
146 caving 607 Haikou (Hainan Island) 295, 304
Grand Canal 217, 218, 220 food and drink 347
map 217 hotels 569 air travel 627
Grand Dragon Gate (Western map 397 Haila’er 467, 474
Hills) 377 restaurants 595 Hailou Gou Glacier 371
Grand Hyatt 553 Guangxiao Si (Guangzhou) 299 Hainan Coconut Festival 45
Grape Valley (Turpan) 505 Guangxu emperor 53, 63, 446 Hainan Ferry Port 425
Grapes 506 Beijing Opera 74 Hainan Island 295, 304–5, 604
Grasslands, Inner Mongolia 22, Confucius Temple (Beijing) 93
469 Summer Palace (Beijing) 101, air travel 627
Great Bell Temple (Beijing) 103 102 hotels 565
“Great Game” 491 Xi’an 164 map 295, 305
Great Goose Pagoda (Xi’an) 161, Guangzhou (Canton) 295, restaurants 591
164, 487 298–301 Haitong 365
Great Hall of the People air travel 627 Hakka people 279, 285
(Beijing) food and drink 282 earthen dwellings of Yongding
Street-by-Street map 82 hospitals 617 290
Great Hall of the People hotels 565 Xincun 305
(Chongqing) 350–51 map 299 Hall of Attractive Scenery
Great Leap Forward 67 Public Security Bureau (PSB) (Suzhou) 212
Great Mosque (Hohhot) 468 611 Hall of Benevolence and
Great Mosque (Kuqa) 509 restaurants 591 Longevity (Summer Palace,
Great Mosque (Xi’an) 163 Visitors’ Checklist 299 Beijing) 101, 102
Great Mosque (Xining) 498 Guangzong emperor 53 Hall of Distance Fragrance
Guanlin (Luoyang) 152 (Suzhou) 207
Guanyin Colossus (Putuo Shan) Hall of Four Auspicious Merits
248 (Suzhou) 213
Guanyin Si (Dali) 387 Hall of Happiness and Longevity
Gui Shan (Wuhan) 267 (Summer Palace, Beijing) 102

642 GENERAL INDEX

Hall of Imperial Peace Heavenly Kingdom Rebellion see Hong Kong (cont.)
(Forbidden City) 88 Taiping Rebellion film industry 41
food and drink 283
Hall of Jade Ripples (Summer Hebei province 72, 73, 121 history 278, 307
Palace, Beijing) 102 hotels 556–7 hospitals 617
map 121 hotels 566–7
Hall of Mental Cultivation restaurants 584 map 308–9
(Forbidden City) 89 public transport 632, 633
Hebei Provincial Museum restaurants 592–3
Hall of Middle Harmony (Shijiazhuang) 130 returned to China 67
(Forbidden City) 87 shopping 330–31
Hedi emperor 52, 55 Street Finder 334–7
Hall of Supreme Harmony Hedin, Sven 495 Victoria Peak 312–13
(Forbidden City) 87 Hefei 233 visas and passports 610

Hall of Union (Forbidden City) 88 hotels 561 Hong Kong & Shanghai Bank
Han Chinese 24 restaurants 588 (Shanghai) 186
Han dynasty 52, 54–5 Hei Ta 385
Heihe 454 Hong Kong Academy of the
porcelain 255 Heikong Shan 389 Performing Arts 332, 333
Han Jiang estuary 296 Heilong Jiang 454
Han Xiangzi 31 Heilong Tan Gongyuan (Lijiang) Hong Kong Arts Centre 44, 332,
Hanafi School, Islam 507 392 333
Hanas Lake Nature Reserve 508 Heilongjiang province 430, 437
Hanging Monastery (Heng Shan) hotels 570 Hong Kong Coliseum 332, 333
restaurants 595–6 Hong Kong Cultural Centre 316
70 skiing 605, 607 Hong Kong Disneyland 325, 332,
Hanging Palace (Cangyan Shan) Helan Shan 467, 476
Henan province 72, 141 333
130 hotels 557 Hong Kong Life Saving Society
Hanging Temple (Heng Shan) map 141
restaurants 585 323
121, 131 Henan Provincial Museum Hong Kong Museum of Art 316
Hangzhou 177, 239, 240–45 (Zhengzhou) 152 Hong Kong Museum of History
Heng river 131
food and drink 180 Heng Shan 70, 131, 259, 261 316–17
hotels 562 Hepatitis 619 Hong Kong Rugby Football
map 241 Heritage Museum (Hong Kong)
restaurants 589 320 Union 604, 607
West Lake 242–5 Heshun 90, 389 Hong Kong Science Museum 316
Hani people 24, 382, 384–5 Hetian Cultural Museum Hong Kong Wetland Park 321
Hankou (Wuhan) 267 (Khotan) 515 Hong Kong Zoological &
Hanlinyuan Museum (Yangzhou) Hetian Silk Factory (Khotan) 515
220 Hexi Corridor 479 Botanical Gardens 311
Hanshan Si (Suzhou) 211 Hezhen people 455 Hong Men Gong (Tai Shan) 145
Hanwen Gong Ci (Chaozhou) 296 Hilton 553 Hong Qiao Market (Beijing) 112,
Hao 161 Himalayas 349, 527
Haoshang Bridge (Le Shan) 365 Everest base camp 521, 546–7 113
Happy Valley Racecourse (Hong History 51–67 Hong Xiuquan 223, 297, 422, 423
Kong) 311, 332, 333 HIV 619 Hongcun 234
Harbin 276, 430, 431, 437, Hmong people see Miao people Hongkou Park (Shanghai) 198
450–51 Ho, Dr. (Daoist physician) 392 Hongqiao Airport (Shanghai) 625
climate 49 Ho, Dr. Stanley 327, 328 Hongshan Park (Ürümqi) 506
hotels 570 Hohhot 467, 468–9 Hongwu emperor 52, 60, 231
map 451 hotels 571
restaurants 596 restaurants 596 Linggu Temple (Nanjing) 229,
skiing 605, 607 Holiday Inn 553 230
Harbin Northern Forest Zoo Holidays, public 47, 552, 612 Ming Palace Ruins (Nanjing)
(Harbin) 451 Hollywood Road (Hong Kong) 226
Harbour City (Hong Kong) 330, 314 Taiping Heavenly Kingdom
331 Home (Hong Kong) 332, 333 History Museum (Nanjing) 222
Harbour Plaza 553 Homosexuality 616–17 tomb of 228, 230
Hardoon, Silas 196 Honeychurch Antiques (Hong Wenchang Ge (Yangzhou) 221
He Jingyu Kong) 330, 331 Winning Chess Pavilion
tomb of 267 Hong Kong 307–25 (Nanjing) 227
He Lu, King of Wu 211 air travel 625, 627 Xi’an 162
He Xiangning banks 620 Zhonghua Gate (Nanjing) 224
tomb of 230 climate 49 Hongxi emperor 52
He Yuan (Yangzhou) 221 entertainment 332–3 Hongyuan Cun (Chongqing) 351
Health care 617 Hongzhi emperor 52, 254
diseases 618–19 Horses
immunization 611, 619 Happy Valley Racecourse
stomach upsets and diarrhea (Hong Kong) 311, 332, 333
618 horse racing 46
Heat 618 horse trekking 607
Hospitality 614

GENERAL INDEX 643

Hospitals 617 Hubei province 177, 259 Incense Burner Peak (Beijing) 103
Hotel Lisboa (Macau) 327, 332 hotels 563 Influenza 619
Hotels 550–73 map 259 Inner Mongolia and the Silk
restaurants 590
advance booking 610 Roads 456–515
air conditioning 618 Hubei Provincial Museum food and drink 77
bargaining 615 (Wuhan) 266 Gansu and Qinghai 479–501
booking 551 Genghis Khan 471
children in 553 Huguang Guildhall (Beijing) 113 grasslands 22, 469
disabled travelers 553 Huguo Lu (Dali) 386 hotels 571–3
hidden costs 551 Hui Li 241 Inner Mongolia and Ningxia
hotel chains 553 Hui Neng 299 467–77
restaurants 576 Hui people 25, 460, 467 Jiayuguan Fort 492–3
seasonal demand 552 Maiji Shan 480–81
security 616 Cow Street Mosque (Beijing) 98 maps 458–9, 467
smoking in 615 food and drink 77 Mongols of the Steppe 462–3
tipping in 553 Islam 507 Portrait of Inner Mongolia and
House of Blues & Jazz Weining 402 the Silk Roads 460–61
(Shanghai) 201 Hui’an people 279, 291 Silk Road 464–5
Houses Huidi emperor 52 The Spread of Buddhism 487
Beijing’s courtyard houses 91 Hui’e, legend of 249 Trans Siberian Express 435
Dai people 383 Huihe 158 Xinjiang 503–15
Dong architecture 421 Huiji Si (Putuo Shan) 249 Inner Mongolia Museum
earthen dwellings of Yongding Huizhou architecture 235 (Hohhot) 468
290 Huizong emperor 53, 59 Inner Mongolia province 466–77
Huizhou architecture 235 Hukeng 290 hotels 571
Howard Johnson 553 Huli Shan Paotai (Xiamen) 286 map 467
HSBC (Hong Kong & Shanghai Hulunbuir Grasslands 474 restaurants 596
Banking Corporation) 620 Humble Administrator’s Garden Insect-borne diseases 619
Headquarters (Hong Kong) (Suzhou) 206–7 Insurance 611, 617
33, 310 Humidity 618 Intercontinental 553
Hu Jintao 17, 67 Hunan No. 1 Teachers’ Training International Fashion Festival 46
Hu Xueyan 240 College (Changsha) 260 International Finance Centre 310
Hua Shan 161, 171, 424 Hunan province 177, 259 International Labor Day 45
hotels 558 hotels 563 International Post Office 623
Huacheng Si (Jiuhua Shan) 234 map 259 International Women’s Day 44
Huading Peak (Tiantai Shan) 247 restaurants 590 Internet facilities 622
Huagang Garden (Hangzhou) 242 Hunan Provincial Museum Inventions 36–7
Huai river 203 (Changsha) 260 Irish Embassy 617
Huai Su 190 108 Dagobas (Ningxia) 477 Iron Pagoda (Kaifeng) 150
Huaisheng Mosque (Guangzhou) Hundred Flowers Movement 67 Isetan (Shanghai) 200, 201
299 Hungry Ghost Festival (Hong Islam see Muslims and Islam
Huaiyang cuisine 181 Kong) 333 Islamic Cemetery (Guangzhou)
Hualin Si (Guangzhou) 298 Huo Qubin, General 485 300–301
Huandi emperor 52 Huoshao Shan (Wu Da Lian Chi) Island Beverley (Hong Kong)
Huang Gongwang 39 454 330, 331
Huang Shan 203, 236–7 Hushan Great Wall (Dandong) 441 Iyer, Pico 307
Huang Shi Zhai (Wulingyuan) 264 Huxingting Teahouse (Shanghai)
Huangguoshu Falls 401 183, 193 J
Huanghua Cheng 108 Huxiyan (Xiamen) 286
Huanglong 369 Hyatt Regency 553 Jade 515
Huanglong Dong (Wulingyuan) Hygiene 617 Jade Belt Bridge (Summer
265 Hypothermia 618
Huanglong Dong Park Palace, Beijing) 102
(Hangzhou) 240 I Jade Buddha Temple (Shanghai)
Huanglong Xi 368
Huangpu Park (Shanghai) 195 Ibis 553 196
Huangpu river 176, 183, 184, 195 Ice sculpture 450, 454 Jade Dragon Snow Mountain
Huashi Lou (Qingdao) 147 Id Kah Mosque (Kashgar) 510
Huating Si (Western Hills) 377 Ikparhan 512 380–81, 392, 394, 604
Huaxi District (Guiyang) 399 Ili river 508, 509 Jade Market (Hong Kong) 317,
Huayan Si (Datong) 131 Imin Ta (Turpan) 504
Huayi Classical Furniture Immunization 611, 619 330, 331
(Beijing) 112, 113 Imperial Gardens (Forbidden Jamyang Choje 536
Hubao Building Basement Japan, occupation of Manchuria
Market (Shanghai) 200 City) 88
Imperial Palace (Shenyang) 432, 66, 431, 437
Japanese Germ Warfare
438
Imperial Zenith Hall (Forbidden Experimental Base (Harbin)
451
City) 89 Japanese-Russian Prison (Dalian)
445

644 GENERAL INDEX

Jar Hill Observation Platform Ji’nan 142 Kang Mei Yuan Chao Zhanzheng
(Three Gorges Dam) 269 hotels 557 (Dandong) 441
restaurants 584
Le Jardin (Hong Kong) 332, 333 Kangding 371
Jardine Matheson 197 Jinci Si (Taiyuan) 137 Kangxi emperor 53, 62, 122, 432
Jesuits Jindian Gong (Wudang Shan)
Baoguang Si 360
astronomy 94 272 Chengde 122
and Ming dynasty 61 Jing Shan Park (Beijing) 90 Da Zhao (Hohhot) 469
and Qing dynasty 62, 63 Jing’an Temple (Shanghai) 196 Eastern Qing Tombs 109
Ruinas de São Paulo (Macau) Jingang Palace (Lanzhou) 485 Forbidden City 89
326 Jingdezhen 177, 239, 255 Marco Polo Bridge 110
Yuanming Yuan (Beijing) 103 Karakoram Highway 514
Jet Li 159 hotels 562 Karakoram Mountains 503
Jewelry shops Jingdi emperor 52 Karaoke 603
Hong Kong and Macau 330, Jinggang Shan 239, 257 Karghilik 515
331 Karma Phuntso Namgyel 544
Jews, in Kaifeng 150, 151 Long March 257 Karmapa (Black Hats) order
Jiajing emperor 52, 53 Jinghong 341, 382 542
Jialing river 350 Jingpo Hu 431, 437, 452 Karst 412–13
Jian Lou (Arrow Tower, Beijing) Jingtai emperor 52 Karst Caves (Yixing County) 218
84 Jingzhen 384 Kashgar 461, 503, 510–13
Street-by-Street map 82 Jingzhou 268 Aba Khoja Mausoleum 512–13
Jian Zhen 220 Jingzong emperor 52 hotels 572
Jianfeng Chi (Stone Forest) 379 Jinjiang Hotel (Shanghai) 194 map 511
Jianfeng Ling Nature Reserve 305 Jinjiang Prince’s Palace (Guilin) Visitors’ Checklist 511
Jianfu Gong (Qingcheng Shan) Kashgaria 491, 503, 508, 510
368 415 Kazakhs 24, 506, 507
Jiang Qing 65 Jinmao Dasha (Shanghai) 189 Kazakhstan 503
Jiang Zemin 67, 221 Jinpeng Pass 605 Kegong Fang (Lijiang) 390
Jiangsu province 203 Jinsha Jiang 394 Kelsang Potrang (Lhasa) 529
hotels 561 Jinsuo Dao 388 Khaishan 52
map 203 Jintian 422, 423 Khampa people 371
restaurants 588–9 Jinzhou 440 Khi Vehdu 196
Jiangxi province 239 Jitang 421 Khoshila 52
hotels 562 Jitong railway 605 Khotan 515
map 239 Jiuhua Shan 174, 203, 234 hotels 572
Nanchang Uprising 177 Jiujiang 252 Khunjerab Pass 514
restaurants 589–90 Jiulong Bi (Datong) 121 King of Borneo’s Tomb
Jiangxin Park (Wenzhou) 247 Jiuzhai Gou 349 (Nanjing) 231
Jianshan Si (Yangshuo) King Wah Building (Hong Kong)
418–19 Jiuzhai Gou tour 370 331
Jianwen emperor 52 Jokhang Temple (Lhasa) 521, Kipling, Rudyard 491
Jiao Shan 128, 218 Kirghiz people 507
Jiaohe Ruins (Turpan) 504 530, 532–3 Kite flying 603
Jiaxiu Lou (Guiyang) 398 Joyce (Hong Kong) 331 festivals 44
Jiayin Hall (Tongli) 216 Judy’s Too (Shanghai) 201 Kizil 509
Jiayuguan 479, 490 Jue Yuan (Guiyang) 398 KLM 625
hotels 572 Juma river 111 Knives
restaurants 597 Jumbo Floating Restaurants Yengisar Country Small Knife
Jiayuguan Fort 492–3 Factory 514
Jiazhou Huayuan (Aberdeen) 322 Ko Shan Theatre (Hong Kong)
(Le Shan) 364 Jungle 23 332, 333
Jile Si (Harbin) 451 Kodari 547
Jilin 447 Bupan Aerial Walkway Kong family 143
hotels 570 (Mengla ) 384 Kongtong Shan 486
restaurants 596 Southwest China 345 Kongzhong Tianyuan
Jilin province 430, 437 Xishuangbanna 384, 385 (Wulingyuan) 264
hotels 570 Junshan Dao 261 Korea 437, 440–41
restaurants 595–6 Justinian, Emperor 208 Kotnis, Dwarkanath 130
Jimei School Village (Xiamen) 286 Juyong Guan 108 Kowloon 278, 307
Jin Dian (Kunming) 376 map 309
Jin Ding Si (Emei Shan) 363 K see also Hong Kong
Jin dynasty 52, 58, 59 Koxinga (Zheng Chenggong)
Jin Qiaojue 234 Kaifeng 72, 141, 150–51, 153 286, 287
Jin Qu Xi 292 hotels 557 Koxinga Memorial Hall (Gulang
Jin Shan Park (Zhenjiang) 218 map 151 Yu) 287
restaurants 585

Kaili 397, 408
Kaishu calligraphy 27
Kaiyuan Si (Chaozhou) 296
Kaiyuan Si (Fuzhou) 292
Kaiyuan Si (Quanzhou) 291
Kamikaze Caves (Lamma Island)

324

GENERAL INDEX 645

Kublai Khan 52, 60, 342, 388, 392 Lao Hei Shan (Wu Da Lian Chi) Liaoning province 430, 437, 438
Beijing 73, 84, 90 454 hotels 570
and Chinese cuisine 76 restaurants 595–6
Dongxiang people 484 Lao Long Tou 128
Sakya Monastery 546 Lao Shan 147 Lidui Park (Dujiangyan) 368–9
Xanadu 474 Lao She Teahouse (Beijing) 113 Life (Hong Kong) 332, 333
Laojun Pavilion (Qingcheng Ligong Pagoda (Hangzhou) 241
Kuixing Tower (Pingyao) 139 Lijiang 343, 373, 390–92, 393
Kumarajiva 494, 509 Shan) 368
Kumbum (Gyantse) 543 Laojun Yan 291 hotels 569
Kumbum Monastery see Ta’er Si Laos 373, 384 restaurants 595
Kundulun (Baotou) 470 Laozi 30, 31 Street-by-Street map 390–91
Kung, H.H. 187, 198 Visitors’ Checklist 391
Kung Fu 158, 159, 606 Laojun Yan (Quanzhou) 291 Limestone, karst 412–13
Luoyang 152 Lin Biao 65, 67
tai ji quan (Tai Chi) 273 Qingyang Gong (Chengdu) Lin Mo 149
Kunming 373, 374–7 358 Lin Zexu 292
Largo do Senado (Macau) 327 Lin Zexu Memorial Hall
climate 48 Later Jin dynasty 62 (Fuzhou) 292
hotels 568–9 Le Coq, Albert von 495, 505, 509 Lingdi emperor 52
map 375 Le Shan 349 Linggu Pagoda (Nanjing) 229,
Muslim Uprising 342 Dafo 364–7 230
restaurants 594 hotels 568 Linggu Temple (Nanjing) 229, 230
Kunming Lake 79 restaurants 594 Lingshui 304–5
Kuomintang (KMT) 66 Lee, Bruce 159 Lingyin Si (Hangzhou) 241
and the Long March 256 Legalism 51, 54 Lingyun Ting (Zhenjiang) 218
Kuqa 509 Legislative Building (Hong Linxia 484
hotels 573 Kong) 310 Lishu calligraphy 27
restaurants 597 Lei Shan 408 Literature 28–9
Kwan Wan Chung 315 Leigong Shan 408 customs information 611
Leitai Si (Wuwei) 490 Little, Edward 252
L Lenin 99 “Little eats” 577
Lesbian travelers 616–17 Liu Bei 354
Labor Park (Dalian) 444 Lhasa 499, 521, 528–37 tomb of 359
Labrang Monastery 461, 479, air travel 627 Liu Rong Si (Guangzhou) 299
Barkhor 530–31 Liu Shaoqi 65
482, 483, 527 climate 48 Liu Xu
Labrang Nyingba (Lhasa) 531 hotels 573 tomb of 220
Lacquerware 292 Jokhang Temple 521, 530, Liu Yazi 216
Laifeng Monastery (Tengchong) 532–3 Liu Yuan (Suzhou) 211
map 528–9 Liubiju (Beijing) 85
389 Potala Palace 521, 534–5 Liugong Island 149
Laifeng Shan Park (Tengchong) restaurants 597 Liulichang (Beijing) 85, 112
Visitors’ Checklist 529 Lizong emperor 53
389 Li Bai 28, 56, 58 Loess plateau 153
Lama Temple (Beijing) 73,92–3 Qutang Gorge 353 Lok Cha Tea Shop (Hong Kong)
Lamaism 134 tomb of 233 330–31
Li Bing 368 Long Corridor (Summer Palace,
Wudang Zhao 470 Li Cang, Marquis of Dai 260 Beijing) 101, 102
Lamma Island 324 Li Chun 130 Long Lake
Lan Kwai Fong (Hong Kong) 314 Li Guangxiu 376 Jiuzhai Gou tour 370
Lan Shan Gongyuan (Lanzhou) Li people 25, 279, 295, 304 Long March 66, 177, 256–7
Li Qingzhao Memorial Hall Luding Chain Bridge 256, 371
485 (Ji’nan) 142 Zunyi Conference 410
Lan Ting (Shaoxing) 246 Li river 342, 343 Longevity Hill (Summer Palace,
The Landmark (Hong Kong) 310, at Guilin 414 Beijing) 100, 102
karst landscape 412 Longgong Dong 400–401
330, 331 Li river cruise 416–17 Longhua Cemetery of Martyrs
Landscape 20–23 Li Xiucheng 204 (Shanghai) 199
Li Zhisui 263 Longhua Si (Shanghai) 199
karst 412–13 Lianfengshan Park (Beidaihe) Longji Titian 404–5, 420
Lang Mei Xian Ci (Wudang Shan) 128 Longjing Village (Hangzhou) 240
Liangma Antique Market Longmen Caves 73, 141, 154–7
272 (Beijing) 112, 113 Longqing emperor 52
Langde 408 Liao Bingxiong 301 Longquan Si (Wutai Shan) 136
Langmusi 482 Liao dynasty 52, 58 Longrui Nature Preserve 424
Language and script 18, 26–7, 612 Liao Zhongkai Longshan culture 51
tomb of 230
Cantonese 279
Zhuang people 424
Lantau Island 324–5
map 324–5
Lantau Peak 325
Lantern Festival 44
Lanzhou 165, 461, 479, 484–5
hotels 572
map 484–5
restaurants 597

646 GENERAL INDEX

Longsheng 420 Mahayana Buddhism 31, 487 Mao Zedong (cont.)
Longtan Village 419 see also Buddhism Site of the First National
Longting Park (Kaifeng) 151 Congress of the Chinese Com-
Longwu Si (Tongren) 498 Mahjong 602 munist Party (Shanghai) 194
Lotus Flower Cave (Longmen Mai Po Marshes 321 statues of 292, 438, 440
Maiji Shan 480–81 Tai Shan 145
Caves) 155 Mail services 622 Tian’an Men (Beijing) 83
Lovers’ Festival 46 Maitreya Buddha 536 Underground City (Beijing) 84
Lowland landscape and wildlife Majestic Theater (Shanghai) 200, Yan’an 171
Zunyi Conference 410
23 201
Lu, Y.C. 230 Malaria 619 Maotai 410
Lu Hou emperor 52 Maling Canyon 402 Maps
Lu Shan 239, 252–3 Malone’s American Café
Asia 10
hotels 563 (Shanghai) 201 Beijing 80–81
Long March 256 Man Mo Temple (Hong Kong) Beijing: Street Finder 114–19
Lu Su Beijing: Tian’an Men Square
tomb of 267 314 82–3
Lu Xun 29, 198 Manchu dynasty 62, 430, 432–3 Beijing and the North 70–71
Lu Xun’s Former Residence Manchukuo 66, 431, 437, 446 Central China 174–5
(Shaoxing) 246 Manchuria 66, 430–31, 437 Changbai Shan 448–9
Lu Yu 293 Mandalas 536 Chengdu 359
Luck and prosperity 42–3 Mandarin Chinese 26, 612 China 10–11, 12–13
Ludi Yan (Guilin) 415 Mandarin Duck Hall (Suzhou) 206 Chongqing 351
Luding 371 Manfeilong Ta 385 Dali and Er Hai 387
Luding Chain Bridge 256, 371 Manguanghan 385 Dalian 445
Lufthansa 625 Manguanglong Si (Gasa) 384 Emei Shan 362–3
Lukhang (Lhasa) 528 Manjusri 135 Fujian 285
Lunar calendar 44 Manjusri Temple (Lhasa) 536 Gansu and Qinghai 479
Luo Yue people 424 Manlei Si (Mengzhe) 384 Genghis Khan’s empire 471
Luohan Hall (Baoguang Si) 360 Manpo 385 Grand Canal 217
Luohan Si (Chongqing) 350 Mansion of Prince Gong Great Wall of China 107
Luohou Si (Wutai Shan) 134 Greater Beijing 80
Luomen 482 (Beijing) 90, 113 Greater Shanghai 185
Luoshi Ta (Wuwei) 490 Manting 384 Guangdong and Hainan 295
Luoyang 72, 141, 152 Manting Wat (Jinghong) 382 Guangzhou 299
air travel 627 Manzhouli 474 Guilin 415
hotels 557 Mao Ling (Xi’an) 170 Guiyang 399
restaurants 585 Mao Zedong 99, 250 Guizhou and Guangxi 397
Luoyang City Museum (Luoyang) Hainan Island 305
152 birthplace 259, 260, 262 Hangzhou 241
Lushun 445 Changsha 260 Harbin 451
Lyceum Theater (Shanghai) 200, cult of Mao 262–3 Hebei, Tianjin and Shanxi 121
201 Cultural Revolution 64–5, 67 Hong Kong 308–9
death 67 Hong Kong: Street Finder 334–7
M Dripping Water Cave (Shao Huang Shan 236–7
Shan) 260 Huangpu river 195
Macartney, Lord 62, 63, 433 founds People’s Republic of Hunan and Hubei 259
Macau 326–9 China 66 Inner Mongolia and Ningxia 467
Great Leap Forward 67 Inner Mongolia and the Silk
airport 625 Hongyuan Cun (Chongqing) Roads 458–9
entertainment 332–3 351 Jiangsu and Anhui 203
food and drink 329 Hunan 177 Jiuzhai Gou tour 370
history 307 Long March 66, 256–7 Kaifeng 151
hotels 567 Lu Shan 252, 253 Kashgar 511
map 327 Mao Ancestral Temple (Shao Kowloon 309
Portuguese colony 278, 307, 326 Shan) 260 Kunming 375
restaurants 593 Mao Zedong Exhibition Hall Lantau Island 324–5
returned to China 67 (Shao Shan) 260 Lanzhou 484–5
shopping 330–31 Mao’s Family House (Shao Lhasa 528–9
visas and passports 610 Shan) 260 Li river cruise 416–17
Visitors’ Checklist 327 Mao’s Villa (Wuhan) 266 Lijiang 390–91
Macau Cultural Centre 332, 333 Mausoleum (Beijing) 82 Long March 256–7
Macau Museum 326 Monument to the People’s Longmen Caves 155
Macau Tower 328 Heroes (Beijing) 83 Macau 327
Maclehose Trail (New Territories) and Northeast China 431 Miao communities 406
321 Ode to Plum Blossom (Stone
Magazines 623 Forest) 378
Mahao Cave Tombs (Le Shan) 365 Peasant Movement Institute
(Guangzhou) 298