China

THE SOUTHWEST 397

GUIZHOU & GUANGXI

GUIZHOU AND Guangxi regions, Guizhou and Guangxi do
share a dramatic have a few sights that are
mountainous landscape well-touristed and easily

of weathered limestone (karst) accessible. The city of Guilin

pinnacles, which hide some GUIZHOU in eastern Guangxi is fa-
of China’s largest cave sys- mous for the Li River cruise

tems. Despite the abundant GUANGXI through astonishing karst

rainfall, the region possesses landscape, and ending at

poor soil, which discouraged the backpacker haven of

Han settlement until the late Ming Yangshuo. Kaili, a convenient base for

period. As a result, the area saw little exploring sociable Miao villages, is

development, and many indigenous becoming more accessible and

groups, especially the Miao and Dong, popular with tourists. For determined

have retained their traditional travelers with time on their hands,

customs, including several festivals. long bus journeys are rewarded with

Guangxi is also home to the Zhuang, beautiful Detian Falls, stunning

China’s largest ethnic minority, scenery near the Vietnamese border,

and became the Guangxi Zhuang the wooden Dong villages around

Autonomous Region in 1958. Zhaoxing, and the calm waters of bird

Still among China’s least developed sanctuary Cao Hai.

SIGHTS AT A GLANCE

Villages, Towns, & Cities Pingxiang p Waterfalls, Caves, & Areas

Anshun 2 Sanjiang r of Natural Beauty

Beihai s Wuzhou y Chishui 0

Guilin q Zhaoxing t Detian Falls a

Guiping u Zunyi 9 Huangguoshu Falls 4

Guiyang 1 0 Wuchuan Longgong Dong 3
Longsheng e Weining & Cao Hai 6
•

Miao Villages 8 • Xingyi & Maling Canyon 7
Nanning i Yangshuo w
Xishui • Tongzi Yinjiang Zhijin Dong 5
Bijie Zuo Jiang o
• Fenggang • an • Tongren

Jinsha g •
•
9 Wu Ji Wanshan•

6 Dafang• Wuyang He • Zhenyuan 0 km 100

•5 1 8 Jinping• 0 miles 100
Lupanshui k Duyun • Rongjiang
e • Quanzhou
Panxian 4 2 •t
3 • DushanCongji•ang r
•
•

Qinglong

Xin•gren Luodian • k
q

7• Nandan • • • Yongfu Fuchuan
Anlong
Rongshui w•

Xilin• Tuoniang Ji hui He• Lipu
Hongshui He
Tianlin Hechi •• •
ang
• ~• Luzhai Hezhou

KEY Liuzhou

k International airport • Mashan H ongs Heshan Wuxuan
~ Domestic airport
Bose • • • Xun Jiang

Binyang u• y

Pingguo • • Tengxian
•
National highway Jingxi • • Rongxian
a Wuming
Guigang
•

i
Fusui • k Lingshan
Major road •

o• Yulin

Railroad

International border p Qinzhou
Provincial border Fangcheng •

•

Hepu •
s~

Women of the Bunu ethnic minority with drying chilies, Guizhou

398 THE SOUTHWEST

Guiyang 1

FOUNDED DURING THE HAN ERA, Guiyang
remained a minor provincial center
until it became the capital of Guizhou in

the early 20th century. The city is situa-

Ornamental win- ted in a valley along the little Nanming
dow, Cuiwei Yuan
River, protected from the unlucky nor-
thern direction by high hills. Guiyang

means “South of the Mountains,” although another

translation, “Precious Sun,” reflects the general Chinese

opinion of the province’s damp climate. An easy-going

place, Guiyang is a steadily modernizing city surrounded Jiaxiu Lou & the arched Fuyu Qiao

by parklands, with a couple of historic relics dotted over Nanming He

among its tower blocks. The Huaxi District to its south memorabilia. Jue Yuan on
Fushui Nan Lu is another
includes rural parks, a few villages inhabited by the Bouyi temple, whose main attraction
is the excellent vegetarian res-
minority (see p400), and a well-preserved Ming-era town. taurant out front, which uses
generous quantities of chilies
to spice up the tofu, vegetable,
and gluten dishes. Just off
Wengchang Bei Lu, Wenchang
Ge features an elegant three-
story tower with flared and
pointed eaves built between
1609 and 1669. It was origi-
nally part of the east city wall.

E Provincial Museum

168 Beijing Lu. # 9am–5pm daily. &

The second floor of this dusty

building houses an interesting

collection of local finds,

Traditional temple buildings in Cuiwei Yuan though there are few captions.

The pride of the collection is

P Jiaxiu Lou & Cuiwei Yuan t Qianming Si, Jue Yuan, & a 3-ft (1-m) high Han-era

2 Cuiwei Xian Nanming Lu. # daily. & Wenchang Ge bronze horse and chariot, and

The small Jiaxiu Pavilion was City center, N of the river. # daily. & some glazed clay figurines

constructed in 1598 on a A few examples of Guiyang’s from a Ming tomb near Zunyi.

tortoise-shaped rock jutting classic architecture survive A document on one wall refers

out of Nanming He. It was around the city center. The to the 19th-century Miao

built as an inspirational most interesting is Qianming Uprisings, a series of conflicts

meeting place for scholars Si, located on Yangming Lane against increased taxation in

studying for the imperial civil on the north bank of the river. Guizhou. Ethnological displays

service examinations. The Its main point of interest is include silverware, batiks, and

pavilion is now a teahouse the street market outside, sell- embroideries from Guizhou’s

decorated with antique poetry ing bonsai trees, pets, fishing many minorities, along with

scrolls. Its upper floor offers gear, and Cultural Revolution models of their architecture.

views of Guiyang’s modern

downtown district. The 95-ft

(29-m) high, three-storied

wooden tower is connected

to the banks by the arched,

Fuyu Qiao (Floating Jade

Bridge), made of solid stone.

On the bridge’s southern side,

Cuiwei Garden was originally

part of a temple dedicated to

Guanyin, the Buddhist

Goddess of Compassion. It

was founded around 1500,

although all that remain today

are late Qing-era buildings. Vermilion-red joss sticks & trinkets on sale outside Qianming Si

GUIZHOU & GUANGXI 399

P Huaxi VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
District

11 miles (17 km) S 865 miles (1,394 km) NW of
Guangzhou. * 1,600,000.
of Guiyang. k Longdong Bao Airport. £
c 16, 25, 47. c Guiyang Bus Station, CAAC

The small town (buses to airport), Tiyu Guan Bus
of Huaxi is the Station. n 20 Yan’an Zhong Lu,
location of
Guizhou Uni- (0851) 581 6348.
versity and the

attractive Huaxi

Park, a 2-sq- animistic rituals, where dancers

Stone steps leading up a thickly-forested hill, mile (5-sq-km) wear stylized wooden masks.

Qianling Shan Park stretch of wood- Just 8 miles (12 km) to the

Y Qianling Shan Park land, river, and south is Qingyang, a garrison
ornamental gardens. A handful outpost founded in 1373. Its
187 Zhaoshan Lu. # daily. & of Bouyi villages lie close by, 33-ft (10-m) high city walls,

This scenic park comprises an including Zhenshan, built dating to the 18th century, are

unexpected patch of forested entirely in stone. The village still intact, along with watch-

hills to the north of the city. A is known for its Ground towers, carved stone gate-

flagstoned path leads uphill Opera, derived from local ways, and 17 temples.

past several shrines, trees hung

with red ribbons, and groups DOG MEAT
of monkeys to Hongfu Si, the

main attraction. Entry to the One thing to look out for in Guizhou is the locals’ fondness

temple is past a 33-ft (10-m) for eating dog meat, a habit shared by people in parts of

marble stupa and a tiled screen Guangxi and other Southeast Asian countries. Rather like

depicting the infant Buddha chilies, dog meat is considered “warming” in Chinese medi-

being washed by nine colorful cine, and also a remedy for male impotence. The meat is

dragons. The temple was often served as a hot pot. However, visitors shouldn’t

originally founded in 1672, worry about being served

although its present buildings dog meat by accident, as

are of recent construction, restaurants specializing in

including a Luohan Hall with such dishes usually make

several hundred painted stat- it very clear by displaying

ues of Buddhist saints. On the the carcasses outside their Characters for “dog meat” on a
hilltop above, Kanzhu Pavilion
establishments. restaurant sign

offers fine views of the city.

GUIYANG CITY CENTER Hongfu Si BEIJING LU ZHONGHUA BEI LU DONG LU WAI HUANCH ENG

Cuiwei Yuan 2 7 6
Jiaxiu Lou 1
Jue Yuan 4 RUIJIN

Provincial Museum 6 ZHAOSHAN LU

Qianling Shan Park 7 QIANLING XI LU SXHIALNU F U S H U I L U
Qianming Si 3
LU

Wenchang Ge 5 c Guiyang YAN'ANLUZHnONG
Bus Station

YAN'AN XI LU

Zunyi

5 Longdong
Bao Airport
ZHONGSHAN DONG LU
0 meters 800 RUIJ ZHONGSHAN ZHONGHU A
0 yards 800 HUANSHA LU XI LU FUSHUI NAN LU

4

DAO N DONSI LU
HUAXI DA
ZUNYI LU L U 1

KEY IN 32 XI HU
NAN LU LU
£ Train station JIEFANG LU
c Long distance bus station Nanming He
n Tourist information
N Post office JIEFANG CAAC c

Tiyu Guan LU
Bus Station c
Huaxi ZUNYI LU
District

c G

N

HO
LU

£ SH B EAIC

400 THE SOUTHWEST

products, including wall
hangings and colorful banners,
are displayed outside the
Batik Factory on Nanhua Lu.

ENVIRONS: Lying about 9 miles

(15 km) east of Anshun,

Yunshan is a fortified village,

founded by Ming-dynasty

troops. It contains a scattering

of old structures, including the

elegant Qiyan Qiao, a seven-

arch bridge. Tiantai Shan,

16 miles (25 km) northeast

of town, is a 1,300-ft (400-m)

hill with a cluster of thickly-

forested crags, whose summit

Traditional houses of the Bouyi community near Anshun is crowned by a Buddhist tem-

Anshun 2 ple dating from 1616. Another
the frequent gusts of coal dust 16 miles (25 km) southwest of

from nearby mines. It also has Anshun, Zhenning County

numerous bustling street mar- has a concentration of tradi-

62 miles (100 km) SW of Guiyang. kets, and offers easy access to tional Bouyi villages. The
£ c n Tashan Donglu, (0853) several of the surrounding houses are built of skillfully-
traditional villages. The laid drystone walls, with roofs
322 3173. busy town center lies at
tiled in hand-cut slates, over-

FOUNDED AS A garrison the intersection of lapping like fish scales. The
town in the 13th century, Nanhua Lu and Tashan village of Shishao, built

Anshun grew into a prosperous Lu. The Bai Ta (White almost entirely in stone, is

trading post, mainly because of Pagoda), one of known for its Ground

its strategic position along the Anshun’s two surviving Opera, a regional

overland trade routes between Ming structures, over- variation of traditional

central and southwestern looks the center from Han opera, brought

China. Today’s city survives on Xixiu Hill. The other, here by soldiers from

tourism, subsistence farming, Wen Miao, is a Fruit sellers at the Nanjing during

and its traditional batik Confucian temple Sunday market, Anshun the Ming era.

industry, which capitalizes on and lies in the

the highly-developed textile town’s northeastern back- Longgong Dong 3
skills of the local Bouyi streets. The 600-year-old tem-

minority. The Bouyi number ple was once embellished with

around 3 million and live superb stone carvings. Today,

throughout western Guizhou. what survives are its front pil- 17 miles (27 km) SW of Anshun.

A writing system for the Bouyi lars covered in beautiful spiral- c from Anshun. # 8am–6pm

language was devised in the ing dragons and considered to daily. &

1950s and is used to record be the finest in the country.

their rich folk literature. The area around the city LONGGONG DONG (Dragon
Surrounded by karst hills, center bustles with rural Palace Caves) comprise a

Anshun has one of Guizhou’s commerce. Rows and rows of 9-mile (15-km) long complex

most scenic landscapes, despite shops selling beautiful batik of 90 or more caves,

A strikingly designed, contemporary ANSHUN BATIK
batik, filled out in red and orange
Several ethnic groups across southwestern China have
been traditionally involved in creating batik. For almost
1,000 years, the Bouyi around Anshun have been using
batik as a background to embroidery on clothing, and
since the establishment of a factory in Anshun in the
1950s, have come to monopolize the indigenous textile
market. The designs, which were originally of abstract
plants and animals, are drawn with wax on cloth. The
cloth is then dyed in indigo before being boiled to remove
all traces of the wax, leaving the pattern in white on a
blue background. The earlier monochromatic batiks have
now given way to multi-colored, mass-produced designs,
which include stylized representations of zodiac animals,
scenes from Bouyi legends, and mythical creatures.
Today, Anshun’s batik is in great demand across China.

GUIZHOU & GUANGXI 401

Zhijin Dong 5

Tour boats used to explore the watery Longgong Dong 81 miles (130 km) N of Anshun.
§ (0857) 781 2015. c from Anshun,
connected by an underground possible to wade across the
river. Only six caves, covering streams. Staircases and via Zhijin town. Taxis also available.
2,800 ft (854 m), are open to bridges connect viewing areas 8 compulsory. # daily. &
exploration, accessed by boat opposite the falls. Shuilian
through the flooded entrance, Dong, a 440-ft (134-m) long EXTENDING FOR over 7 miles
Tian Chi (Heaven’s Pool), tunnel, runs behind the falls, (12 km) into limestone
which is partially concealed where natural “windows” hills, these 492-ft (150-m)
by a 130-ft (40-m) high water- look out through the curtain high caves are ranked as the
fall. Inside, the largest cavern of water. Visitors should be largest in China, and are also
is about 260-ft (80-m) high. prepared to get wet. among the biggest in the
The caves are filled with world. They are located
colorfully-lit stalactites and Of the remaining dozen-or- 16 miles (25 km) northeast
stalagmites, and numerous so water features along the of old, but rather unattractive,
oddly-shaped rock forma- Sanche, the pick of the crop Zhijin town, which has a few
tions. During the rainy lies upstream at Doupotang guesthouses. Paths and
season, the boat ride ends at Falls, which though only a stairways link the caves
Tiger Lair, a broad platform quarter of the height of between fossilized waterfalls
from where visitors hike out Huangguoshu, are a stag- and elephantine stalactites
of the caves and walk back gering 340-ft (105-m) wide. and stalagmites. The imposing
to the entrance through an About 3 miles (5 km) down- rock formations have each
attractive stone forest of stream at Tianxing are a been given descriptive names,
weathered karst spikes. series of small caves, some such as “Puxian Riding the
karst spires rising 66 ft (20 m), Elephant,” “Goddess and
Huangguoshu and the Yinlianzhuitan (Silver Snake,” and the aptly named
Falls 4 Chain Cascades), where water and impressive “Old Woman
tumbles into a network of and Daughter-in-Law.”
streams between rocky islets.
The largest cavern,
Guanghan Dong is about
1,312-ft (400-m) long. It
contains the immensely ele-
gant, 56-ft (17-m) stalagmite,
known as the “Silver Rain
Tree.” The obligatory guided
tour, which lasts for more
than 2 hours, requires a
minimum of 10 people,
so smaller groups may
have to wait for more
sightseers to arrive.

31 miles (50 km) SW of Anshun. c
# 7am–6pm daily. &

IMMENSELY POPULAR in China, The Huangguoshu Falls, spectacular even during drier periods
the Huangguoshu Da Pubu
(Yellow Fruit Tree Falls) on
the Sanche River rise to a
height of 223 ft (68 m). Dur-
ing the summer rains in June
and July the river becomes a
torrent, and the 266-ft (81-m)
broad curtain of water creates
an awesome spectacle as it
hits the Rhinoceros Pool
below. It does not, however,
rank as China’s largest
cataract; in fact, during drier
months, its flow shrinks to a
pretty network of streams
pouring over the rock face.
Low water levels during this
time of the year make it

402 THE SOUTHWEST

Xingyi & Maling
Canyon 7

186 miles (300 km) SW of Guiyang.
£ to Xingyi. Maling Canyon White-
water rafting arranged by hotels. &

IN THE FAR southwestern
corner of Guizhou, the
small and remote market

town of Xingyi is surrounded

by low, rounded limestone

hills and flat paddy fields.

Northeast of Xingyi, just

outside the suburbs, lies

Punting on Cao Hai, with low mountains on the horizon the 9-mile (15-km) long

Weining & ringed with low mountains slash of Maling Canyon.
About 330-ft (100-m) deep

Cao Hai 6 and fringed with reedbeds in places, the canyon has

that attract tens of thousands been carved by a fast-flowing

of wintering birds between river. Ground-level springs

November and March. Its gush down mossy cliffs in

171 miles (275 km) W of Guiyang. £ most important annual visitors miniature waterfalls. The

to Weining, or to Liupanshui, then include a large flock of 400 river’s currents and cataracts

bus. c _ Yi Torch Festival (Jun/Jul). endangered black-necked make for exciting white-water

cranes, along with Eurasian rafting trips from Maling’s

ADESTITUTE AREA with coal cranes, barheaded geese, and upper section, 16 miles

mining as the main indus- several duck species. (25 km) northeast of town.

try, western Guizhou has a It is possible to observe the The canyon’s lower section

rugged mountain landscape abundant birdlife by either features several walking

of karst hills and jungle. In walking around the shore tracks and bridges which

the far west, bordering where the cranes congregate, zigzag down to the water

Yunnan, is the 7,200-ft or hiring a punt to approach level and then follow the

(2,195-m) high Weining flocks of wild fowl out on the river, sometimes through

Plateau, whose main town is lake. Boats can also be rented natural tunnels, for some

the small, chaotic, and ugly for a tour of the lake. distance upstream.

Weining, inhabited by Hui, Yi,

and Da Hua Miao. The Muslim

Hui, scattered throughout

China, are descendants of

Arab and Persian traders who

came to China along the Silk

Road during the Tang and

Yuan dynasties. The Yi

community number around

6.6 million and are spread

through southwestern China.

Their torch festival is a major

annual event featuring archery

contests, bonfires, and

wrestling. The Da Hua Miao

(see pp406–7) differ from the

Miao near Kaili in both

language and embroidery

patterns, which feature the

stylized flower motif, inspired

by their name Da Hua,

meaning “Big Flower.”

Immediately southwest of

Weining is Cao Hai, known

throughout China as one of

the prominent spots for bird-

watching. The 17-sq mile (45-

sq km) nature reserve was set

up in 1992. The shallow,

blue, oval-shaped lake is River running through the lower section of Maling Canyon

GUIZHOU & GUANGXI 403

Chinese Cranes

THE LAKES and marshes the central and south-
of China are vital to western parts of the

the survival of eight of country. Aside from being

the world’s 15 species naturally elegant birds, cranes

of crane, many of which are have spectacular mating “dances,”

highly endangered. Most breed where they energetically leap and

in northern China, in particular flap around to attract their lifelong

at Zhalong Nature Reserve in partners. As a result of this display,

Heilongjiang province. All are the crane is a Chinese symbol

migratory, but several species – Sarus – world’s of fidelity and longevity. The
including the tropical sarus and tallest crane Daoist god of longevity, Shou

China’s sole endemic variety, the Lao (also known as Shao Xing), is often

black-necked crane – occur only in depicted riding a crane.

Courting cranes pair for life. They cement the bond The crane is a symbol of good
with elaborate courtship displays, during which the fortune, wisdom, and the quest for
spiritual improvement, as well as
couple loop necks, toss their heads back, throw fidelity – so it is often seen on official
around twigs and pebbles, and leap and imperial clothing.
high into the air, parachuting
down with wings spread.

Cranes migrate great

distances, with some species covering up to

2,500 miles (4,000 km) between their

Trailing summer breeding grounds and winter
legs
quarters. The younger birds learn the routes

Cruising speed in a V-formation behind their elders.

of up to 44 miles

per hour

(70 km/hour)

Demoiselle cranes are gregarious Common cranes are
and have been recorded in flocks a very vocal species,
several thousand strong. Their diet is and their deep booms,
mostly frogs, fish, and insects, though
they can also eat grain and carrion. loud honks, and
raucous croaks are

produced by a
specially adapted
windpipe or trachea.





406 THE SOUTHWEST

Miao Festivals and Crafts

THE MIAO PEOPLE, or Hmong as they call SICHUAN HUNAN
themselves, believe they originated GUIZHOU
on the Himalayan plateau, migrating over
the last few thousand years to their current CHINA
homelands in southwestern China, Laos,
Cambodia, Vietnam, and Myanmar. As YUNAN
Geometric Miao communities tend to exist in remote
embroidery mountainous areas, each village has GUANGXI
developed its own customs, and can be
identified by their distinct ornamentation, such as the M YA N M A R VIETNAM
fine silverwork and embroidery made and worn by
unmarried girls. These are displayed at the many LAOS
Miao social festivals where mass dancing is featured.
THAILAND
Huge horns adorn
these fabulous MIAO COMMUNITIES OF ASIA
headdresses.
Miao population

Miao People in the Kaili
area call themselves Hei
Miao, or Black Hmong,
irrespective of their color-
ful clothing, which
identifies the wearer’s
village or region. This
woman is from the
Leigong Shan area.

Da Hua Miao, or SISTERS’ MEAL FESTIVAL
Big Flower Miao, from
western Guizhou, wear Amid three days of drinking and dancing at this
wax-resist (batik) dyed important festival, teenage girls choose their
skirts, and for festivals, husbands. The man offers a packet of sticky
rice; she returns it with two chopsticks buried
bright red headgear. inside if she agrees, or chilies if she refuses.

This Gejia headpiece with
orange tassels shows that this

Gejia girl is unmarried. These
people’s designs are unusual
in that they embellish their
batik work with embroidery.

The Changjiao, or Long-
horned, Miao of western
Guizhou bundle several
pounds of their own and
ancestors’ hair around horn-
like headpieces for festivals.

The intricately layered rice terraces of Longji Titian (Dragon’s Backbone Terraces), near Ping An, Guangxi

GUIZHOU & GUANGXI 407

Embroidery is This jacket is typical
an integral Miao of dark geometric
skill, and girls learn Gejia pieces. It is
it from an early age. heavily embroidered
They create elaborate and incorporates
panels for sewing batik work of abstract
buffalo and plant
on to their clothes. motifs.
The finer the
design, the
better a girl’s
marriage
prospects.

Elaborate silver- Miao silverwork
work, including ranges from simple
headpieces, breast- earrings to twisted,
plates, and neck- weighty necklace chains
laces, are collected and fantastic headpieces
by families of Hei with bells, horns, and
Miao girls from the animal figurines.
time they are born.

Dragon-boat races are held in the Kaili
region at least twice a year, celebrating a local
victory over invading Chinese armies. Villages
send a team of rowers and a long, narrow
boat with carved wooden dragon-head prows.

Traditional
long pleated
skirt

Only men play the

lusheng, usually

at festivals. This

instrument is made

from a gourd with

a mouthpiece and

a dozen or so

Two buffalo going head-to-head is a feature of bamboo pipes. It

Miao festivals, but buffalo are cherished creatures, produces a nasal

and there is usually no bloodshed. humming sound.

408 THE SOUTHWEST

Miao Villages 8 villages are found on the
mountain and it’s possible to
CHINA’S Miao (see pp406–7) look organize hiking trips between
to the area around Kaili and the them. From Lei Shan, it’s
ancient town of Zhenyuan as their another 18 miles (30 km) on a
homeland. In between, the terrain rises dirt road to Xijiang, the largest
to rough hills, planted with pine trees Miao village at around 1,200
and split by river valleys. A few villages wooden homes. The best times
maintain traditional wooden houses and to visit are during the autumn
Window in pagoda, cobbled streets; others are not so pretty, New Rice Tasting Festival, or
Kaili but host large festivals. Markets come Miao New Year celebrations.
close to a festival atmosphere and operate on a five-day
cycle. Numerous buses run from Kaili, but to reach EASTERN ROUTE
remoter places, hiring a taxi – or hiking – is necessary.
There are several buses daily
The traditional village of Langde tucked into a steep valley from Kaili via Taijiang and
Shidong through to Zhenyuan.
Kaili wooden houses knotted into a Both towns host major fes-
fold in the hillside. At Langde’s tivals, with extra transport dur-
105 miles (170 km) E of Guiyang. £ center is a pond and a dancing ing events. Each can be done
c n Yingpanpo Hotel, 53 Yingpan ground cobbled in concentric as a daytrip, but Taijiang does
rings around a wooden pole have several hotels, and there’s
Dong Lu, (0855) 822 2506. adorned with buffalo horns a basic guesthouse in Shidong.
and painted dragons.
Kaili is a large town of busy Taijiang is an untidy
streets and unremarkable Lei Shan is a down-at-heel market town 34 miles (55 km)
architecture. Back-street mar- collection of concrete build- from Kaili. It transforms dur-
kets add a bit of color, and ings at the foot of Leigong ing Sisters’ Meal Festival,
there’s also a dusty Minorities Shan (7,150 feet, 2,178 m). when thousands of villagers
Museum, displaying local sil- Some of the region’s remotest descend to watch Miao girls
ver and embroidery. Hilltop choose their husbands. At
Dage Park is crowned by a other times, the old village of
wooden pagoda, unusual in its Fanpai is a more photogenic
Daoist iconography and statues place to spend a day.
ritualistically smeared with
bloody chicken feathers. Shidong is a partially
wooden riverside village of
half a dozen lanes. You can
shop for beautifully designed
silverwork and embroideries
on market days, or see them
worn during dragon-boat
races, held at least twice a
year. Afternoon races are
accompanied by furious
drumming, and the day winds
down with a dance in which
everyone present – sometimes
10,000 people – joins in.

E Minorities Museum

5 Guangchang Lu. # daily. &

LANGDE & XIJIANG

This route includes the most The terraced slopes of Leigong Shan
accessible traditional villages
covered by buses from Kaili.
Possible as a day-trip if you
hire a taxi, otherwise, plan to
overnight at Xijiang.

Langde is an easy 20-minute
walk from the main road. It is
entirely traditional, with 50

GUIZHOU & GUANGXI 409

WESTERN ROUTE

Frequent buses ply the route

from Kaili to Shibing; change

here for connections to

Zhenyuan. There’s some basic

accommodations in Chong’an

and hotels in Shibing.

Pleasantly rural Matang is

home to the majority of Gejia,

a Miao sub-group. The road

passes close by, but you’ll

need to hire a taxi from Kaili

if you don’t want to walk the A battery of old stone water-powered mills, Chong’an

last 3 miles (5 km). About 6

miles (10 km) west of experience crowds bargaining He, it’s possible to arrange

Matang, Xianglu Shan for everything from ducklings rafting trips down Shanmu

(4,265 feet/1,300 m) is to home-made spirits. Jiang, or to hike up Yuntai

where Zhang Xiumei, Right on the roadside, Shan, which features the ruins

one of the leaders of Feiyun Dong is a of a Ming-dynasty temple.

the Miao Rebellion, curious Daoist shrine

was defeated by founded in 1443, Zhenyuan

government whose few moss- 62 miles (100 km) NE of Kaili. £ c

troops in 1873. covered halls (one n 26 Ximen Jie, Wuyangzhen.

An annual Hill contains a museum An old garrison town,

Climbing festival is of Miao artifacts) are Zhenyuan is squeezed by

held here in his honor. built right into a flanking cliffs into two long

The riverside town of natural arrangement of streets either side of Wuyang

Chong’an uses its old grottoes and vegetation. He. In the old town on the

core of wooden shops From Shibing, another north bank, Qing-dynasty

for a lively market, Miao woman nondescript place on the buildings with wavy eaves

somewhere to with baby south bank of Wuyang and ornate stonework have

been carefully restored. East

of the old town, a stone Ming

bridge leads to Heilong

Yuntai Shan Zhenyuan Dong (Black Dragon Cave).
This Daoist complex is
• • built right into the over-
hanging cliffs, where
Wuyang He Shibing

Feiyun Shanmu Jingshu ang water seeps onto shrines
Dong dedicated to numerous
deities. It’s also pos-
t sible to cruise a stretch
of the Wuyang He
• Huangping •Mahao
Shidong •

• Chong 'an i Jiang east of Zhenyuan,
Qi through a series of
limestone gorges.

Matang Taijiang • FESTIVALS

• • Jan: Drum festival, Gaowu,
near Taijiang
Xianglu • Fanpai Feb/Mar: Lusheng Festivals
Shan across region
Kaili Xijiang Apr/May: Sisters’ Meal, Taijiang
& Shidong
• Jun/Jul: Dragonboat Races at
many riverside villages and towns
Langde • Jul/Aug: Festival at Xianglu Shan
Aug/Sep: New Rice Tasting Fes-
KEY Lei Leigong Shan tival in villages around Kaili & Lei
Shan Shan; Lusheng Festival, Chong’an
Langde & Xijiang Oct/Nov: Lusheng Festival and
Eastern route • horse races, Yongxi, near Zhenyuan
Western route Dec: Miao New Year, Xijiang &
Rail road 0 kilometers 20 villages around Kaili
t Temple
0 miles 9.1mm = 20km 20
14.7mm = 20mile

410 THE SOUTHWEST

ENVIRONS: About 6 miles (10
km) south of Zunyi, Yang
Can Mu is the final resting
place of the local military
official, Yang Can, who died
around 1250. The stone reliefs
of this well-preserved Song-
era mausoleum are beautiful,
depicting plants, guardian fig-
ures, and dragons curling
around an ornamental gate-
way. There is also a portrait
of Yang Can in court robes.

Chishui 0

Steps leading up to the Monument to the Red Army Martyrs, Zunyi

Zunyi 9 the party leader and severed 112 miles (180 km) NW of Zunyi. c

ties with the Russians, a vital ON THE BANKS OF Chishui
Jiang in northwestern
step that helped the CCP defeat Guizhou on the Sichuan
border, Chishui is encircled by
150 km N of Guiyang. £ c the Nationalists and eventually limestone hills. The subtropical
emerge as China’s ruling forests covering these hills are
divided into nature reserves,
THE LARGEST CITY in northern party. The Conference Site, reached by minibus from
Guizhou, Zunyi is a sparsely-designed, gray brick town. The finest is Shizhang
Dong, 23 miles (37 km) south
encircled by a gray mass of house, displays CCP memora- of town, with a 236-ft (72-m)
waterfall. Some 10 miles (16
cement factories and bustling bilia. A similar building, in the km) southwest, Sidong Gou
is a valley whose red-silted
transport terminals lane behind, housed the river gives Chishui its name,
“Red Water.” It runs over four
that conceal a quiet China Soviet Republic waterfalls and through a forest
thick with bamboo. Locals har-
and clean older State Bank and vest the edible bamboo shoots,
and the mature stems are split
quarter, north Commission of and woven into matting. The
region is also world famous
across the river. Expropriation & for its baijiu, an alcoholic drink
produced in Maotai, 50 miles
The city holds a Collection, which (80 km) southeast in Xishui
county (see p581).
special place in printed banknotes
} Nature Reserves
the history of and redistributed
c minibus from Chishui. # daily. &
the Chinese captured wealth

Communist Party Carved detail, Monument among the

(CCP). In January to the Red Army Martyrs peasantry. The

1935, Zunyi was adjacent Long

invaded by the Red Army March Museum, a former

during the Long March (see Catholic Church, displays CCP

p256). Having suffered major mementos. Up the river, in

defeats at the hands of the Fenghuang Shan Park, the

Nationalists, Communist lead- Monument to the Red Army

ers including Mao, Zhou Enlai, Martyrs commemorates the

and Otto Braun, the Soviet heroes of the Long March.

advisor, convened the Zunyi

Conference. During the three- P Conference Site

day meeting, Mao emerged as Ziyin Lu. # 8:30am–5pm daily. &

Façade of the elegant Song-dynasty mausoleum, Yang Can Mu

GUIZHOU & GUANGXI 411

Bamboo

AFAST-GROWING, long-lived reach full height. Plants might
type of grass found flower only every few decades,

throughout central and or even just once per

southern China, bamboo century, after which they

is put to a huge array of die back. The plant has

uses. The culms (stems) are turned become part of the religion,

into pipes, hats, furniture, mats, and philosophy, and culture of the

cooking utensils, while the shoots of Chinese: it represents Confucian

certain varieties are cooked and values of devotion and righteous-

eaten. The body of the plant is a ness; the segments on its straight

rhizome (a horizontal, under- stem symbolize the steps along

ground stem) that, according to Versatile the straight path to enlighten-
type, clumps or runs, putting out bamboo stems ment; and its strength, grace,

regularly-spaced shoots that grow and longevity have made it the subject

nearly 2 feet (60 cm) per day until they of a great many poems and paintings.

Bamboo painting – or mozhu –
is an esteemed art considered to

be on a par with calligraphy (see
p219). Using a monochrome ink
the painter attempts to convey the

bamboo’s spirit rather than its
exact form in just a few fluid and

almost abstract brush strokes.

In the wild, bamboo covers the
hillsides in tall, dense, waving
green forests, a sight often called
a “bamboo sea.” In gardens
smaller plants are often used as
symbolic elements (see p179).

Split bamboo can be woven
into many useful objects such
as lattice screens and blinds for
use around the home as well
as baskets such as these, used for
carrying chickens to market.

Whole bamboo stems are versatile
enough to be sawn, drilled, bent or
spliced, while keeping their strength.
Items of furniture like these teahouse
chairs can be made by a skilled
craftsman in a matter of minutes.

The strength of bamboo is such
that, in the south of the country
where it is easily available, bamboo

is preferred over steel poles as
scaffolding even for high-rises.
China’s urban boom is being built
on the back of this giant grass.

412 THE SOUTHWEST

Karst

HUGE AREAS of China’s Southwest comprise visually Stone forests, such as
spectacular landscapes featuring karst – weathered Shi Lin outside Kunming (see
limestone formations. In China, limestone has been pp378–9), are karst forma-
created from fossilized prehistoric sea floor sediments, tions created by the retreating
brought to the surface by geological upheavals. The waters of ancient seas, and
exposed alkaline limestone is then eroded by naturally- wind and rain erosion.
occurring acidic rain. Above ground, this results in
anything from closely packed “stone forests,” poking a
few meters skywards, to the huge conical hills covering
half of Guizhou, and the tall, elegant pinnacles
around Guilin. Underground, percolating water
and subterranean rivers carve out long, interlinked
caverns, hung with oddly shaped rock formations.

KARST FORMATION

Southwest China’s thick and
fractured pure limestone has
led to a dramatically eroded
landscape. The warm wet
climate speeds up the
weathering of limestone
by acid rainwater and
chemicals in rotting plants.

1 Surface streams lose water Sinkholes, or tiankeng (heavenly pits), are formed by
to cave systems developing in repeated cave-ins of thinning layers of limestone. The holes
the limestone. Surface drain- can be disturbingly massive. This one at Xiaozhai,
age is diverted down sink holes Chongqing, is almost as wide as it is
to below the water table. deep –2,200 ft (666 m).

The limestone of
southern China’s crust
is exceptionally thick
and extensive, enabling
the creation of
spectacular karst.

2 Peaks develop from the land KARST
left after erosion by the streams. LANDSCAPE
The cave system gets larger as
fast-moving subsurface streams This cut-away
bore through the limestone, artwork shows
and the water table drops. an idealized karst
landscape, with all the
features shown together. Karst
topographies usually have a thick
layer of cave-ridden limestone, and then,
depending on the area’s geology and the age
of the formation, a few of the features shown here.

3 Much of the limestone has The Li River (see
eroded past the caves down to pp416–17) cuts
a layer of shale. Limestone through an
peaks remain, many fractured impressive variety of
with small, waterless caves. karst hills. Cruises
start in Guilin with
fenglin, which
gradually give way
to dense fengcong.

GUIZHOU & GUANGXI 413

Fenglin karst, which
translates as peak-forest karst,
is characterized by peaks that
rise near vertically, like trees,
100 to 250 feet (30 to 80 m)
above the surrounding flat
floodplains. These dramatic
tower-like karsts are found in
and around the city of Guilin
(see pp414–15).

A losing stream runs Caves that open out into large halls
along the surface, and filled with stunning limestone
then disappears
underground, joining formations are found throughout
the subterranean karst areas. Minerals deposited
drainage system. by losing streams and water
drainage create
the strange
shapes.

Sinkhole caving in
to join cave system

Fengcong karst, or
peak-cluster karst, differ from
the straight-sided fenglin. Their peaks
are more cone-shaped and one hill
meets the next across a depression or
doline. Superb fengcong landscape
can be seen near the small town of

Xingping (see p417).

414 THE SOUTHWEST

Guilin q back. Ferries can be taken
from Nanhuan Lu to the hill.
GUILIN IS RENOWNED FOR its karst peaks, Along the path to the summit
most under 650 ft (198 m) high. Dotted stands an old, crumbling pagoda.
throughout the city, they are particularly
concentrated along the Li River (see pp416–7) Y Qixing Gongyuan
to the south of town. Guilin dates back to the
Qin era, and by the 6th century AD, its hills Qixing Lu. # 7am–8pm daily. &
were already inspiring poets. Under the
Ming, it emerged as a provincial capital, a The pleasant and lush
Tai ji quan position it lost in 1914 to Nanning. Guilin Qixing Gongyuan (Seven
in the park today is a tidy tourist city, with about 10 Stars Park) covers an area of
parks enclosing some fine peaks and limestone caves. 1 sq mile (2 sq km) along the
Guilin means “Osmanthus Forest,” and has an avenue of eastern shore of the Li River.
these sweet-scented trees along the riverside Binjiang Lu. It is named after the four
peaks on Putuo Hill, and
Karst hills rise amongst apartment blocks in the center of town three on Crescent Hill. Seen
together, the peaks form the
Y Rong Hu & Shan Hu } Xiangbi Shan shape of the Great Bear or
Big Dipper constellation,
Rong Hu Bei Lu & Shan Hu Bei Lu. Off Minzhu Lu. @ 2, 58. 4 from which governs fate in Chinese
mythology. Covered in thick
Pagodas # daily. & Nanhuan Lu. # 7am–6pm daily. & scrub, they provide shelter to
about 100 half-wild monkeys.
The conjoined Rong and Shan The most famous of the city’s There are several trails and
pathways ascending to
Lakes lie on either side of rock formations, the 328-ft viewing pavilions.

Zhongshan Lu, which runs (100-m) high Xiangbi Shan Guilin’s crags are renowned
for their graffiti and caves.
through the heart of town. (Elephant Trunk Hill), with Crescent Hill is known for the
200-odd poems and commen-
Originally a part of the Ming a hole through one end, taries carved into its over-
hangs, some of which are
city’s moats, the resembles the stylized believed to date back to the
Tang dynasty. Putuo Hill,
lakeshores have been form of an elephant which houses the 22-story
high Putuo Si, is hollowed out
paved and pleasantly taking a drink from the by Qixing Yan (Seven Stars
Cave), a broad cavern with a
planted with shady adjacent Li River. small subterranean waterfall
and surprisingly few rock
banyan and willow According to a local formations. The 246-ft (75-m)
Luotuo Shan (Camel Hill),
trees. On the shore of legend, a baggage standing on its own to the
north of the park, resembles a
the westerly Rong Hu elephant in an seated single-humped camel.
From its summit, there are
stands an 800-year-old imperial convoy was views of Chuan Shan (Hill
with a Mole), and the adja-
banana tree, which abandoned by the cent Ta Shan (Pagoda Hill)
with a Ming-dynasty pagoda.
gives the lake its riverside by an
The pleasant Qixing Gongyuan
name. On the lake’s uncaring emperor (Seven Stars Park)

northern shore lies after it became sick.

Gu Nan Men, Nursed back to

Guilin’s old health by an

South Gate, the elderly couple, the

only remains of elephant refused to

the Ming city walls. One of the two rejoin the returning
Several classical- Riming Shuang Ta convoy and was
style arched bridges killed by the

join the two banks. Shan emperor and turned into a

Hu, on the eastern side of hill, the one that stands here

Zhongshan Lu, is overlooked to this day. The small stupa at

by the twin 130-ft (40-m) the summit is said to be the

pagodas, Riming Shuang hilt of the emperor’s sword

Ta, built in an antique style. sticking out of the elephant’s

GUILIN 415

VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

260 miles (420 km) NE of Nanning.
* 600,000. k Liangjiang Inter-
national Airport. £ Guilin Train
Station. c Guilin Bus Station,
CAAC (buses to airport), Minibus
Station (to Yangshuo). n 41
Binjiang Lu, (0773) 286 1623.

Colorfully illuminated formations inside Ludi Yan (Reed Flute Cave) } Fubo Shan

P Jinjiang Prince’s Palace with clouds at the entrance, Binjiang Lu. # daily. &
& Duxiu Feng indicates an imperial resi-
dence, while the absence of A tall, yellow-gray rock rising
Off Xihua Lu. # daily. & the usual dragons indicates from the river, Fubo Shan is
that the palace was for a believed to calm the rough
Complete with its own encir- prince, not an emperor. waters below, hence its name,
cling wall and four gates, this “Wave-Subduing Hill.” A
palace resembles a miniature Within the palace grounds crumbling temple on the peak
Forbidden City. It was origi- lies Duxiu Feng (Solitary houses a huge bronze bell
nally built for the Ming prince Beauty Peak), whose 707-ft and several hundred Buddha
Zhou Shouqian in 1372, pre- (216-m) spike protects the images from the Song era.
dating Beijing’s palace by 34 palace from the unlucky
years. Having housed 14 northern direction. At its foot T Ludi Yan
successive Ming princes, it is a tag carved by the 5th-
later served as Sun Yat Sen’s century governor Yan Yanzhi, 3 miles (5 km) NW of city center.
headquarters in the 1920s. extolling Guilin’s charms. ª @ 3, 58. # daily. &
Today, it houses the Guangxi Steps lead to the summit,
Teacher Training College. A offering splendid views. Used as a hideout by Guilin’s
sloping marble slab, carved residents during the Japanese
invasion in the 1940s, Ludi
Yan (Reed Flute Cave) has
33-ft (10-m) tunnels winding
for 1,640 ft (500 m) through
Guangming Hill. Inside, its
numerous rock formations
are lit with neon lights.

GUILIN CITY CENTER ZHONGSHAN BEI LU 6

Fubo Shan 6 N5 BINJIANG LU
Jinjiang Prince’s Palace Li River

& Duxiu Feng 5
Qixing Gongyuan 4
Rong Hu 1
Shan Hu 2
Xiangbi Shan 3

KEY Ludi Yan LIJUN LU JIEFA NG XI LU JIEFANG DONG LU

£ Train station Guilin ZHE NGYA NG LU n ZIYOU LU
Bus Station
LU
c Long distance bus station c 1BREOINLGU HU YIREN BINJIANG LU

g Ferry terminal 2WE SHAN HU BEI LU g Yangshuo
Ferry Docks

n Tourist information NMING LU BINJIANG LU 4
HUANCHENG XI YI LU Li River
N Post office

NANHUAN LU

ZHONGSHAN LU MINZHU LU 3

0 km 1

0 miles 1

N CAAC

Guilin Train £ c Minibus c
Station Station
SHANGHAI
LU

Liangjiang
International Airport

416 THE SOUTHWEST

Li River Cruise

THE CRUISE ALONG the Li River (Li Jiang) Bamboo rafts, for navigating the
from Guilin south to Yangshuo passes river during winter’s low waters
through landscape that seems lifted
straight out of a Chinese scroll painting.
The shallow river weaves between sheer-sided,
980-foot (300-m) karst peaks, all weathered
into intriguing shapes and interspersed with the
villages and bamboo groves so typical of
southern China’s rural areas. People here still
Fisher and travel the river on low bamboo rafts, often
cormorant using trained cormorants to catch fish
(see p418). Cruises take about six hours and usually
include a buffet lunch. Foreign visitors are charged
more than Chinese tourists and sail in separate boats.

GUILIN Zhu Jiang
Dock

•

. Elephant Trunk Hill The pier at Zhu
Located on the riverside in Jiang is where
downtown Guilin, Elephant many tours begin.
Trunk Hill (Xiangbi Shan) is
an endearing symbol of the 0 km 3
city (see p414). It resembles 0 miles
an elephant who has placed 3
its trunk in the Li River waters
for a drink.

KEY

Minor road
Built-up area

STAR SIGHTS Daxu
Downstream from Guilin, Daxu is a Song-era market
. Elephant Trunk town, whose cobbled main street still retains many
Hill timber and stone houses over a century old, as well
as an attractive Qing bridge, just outside town.
. Penholder Peak

. Scenery at Xingping

GUILIN 417

VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Guilin to Yangshuo 52 miles (85
km), 6hrs. n 41 Binjiang Lu,
Guilin, (0773) 286 1623 (CITS for
booking). c to starting point
and from Yangshuo provided. &

Pointed fengcong karst formations near Yangdi

. Penholder Peak
Just past Yangdi and facing
Writing-brush Mountain, this
sharp, vertical outcrop does
indeed resemble a traditional
Chinese penholder. This
section of hills is the beginning
of the most spectacular
mountain ranges.

• Caoping Fish Tail Peak . Scenery at Xingping
Xingping, an old, wooden
Yangdi Nine Horse Fresco Hill town and ferry port, marks
is a cliff face stained the start of a spectacular
• brown by minerals 12-mile (20-km) stretch of
creating a mural resem- scenery. Pick of the peaks are
bling galloping horses. Five Fingers Hill and swirly-
patterned Snail Hill.
Xingping •
Five Fingers Hill

Yellow Cloth Shoal,
a shallow patch of yellow
riverstones, is easily seen
even during high water.

Snail Hill

In winter, tours start
at Yangdi, as water levels
are too low upstream.

YANGSHUO

Dragon Head Hill
Visitors to Yangshuo are greeted
by this imposing peak, said to
resemble the head of a dragon
with its gaping jaws wide open.

418 THE SOUTHWEST

Yangshuo w

ASMALL HIGHWAY TOWN at the end of the Li River Cruise
(see pp416–17), Yangshuo is surrounded by some
spectacular karst hills interspersed with green paddy

fields. It was nothing more than a rural marketplace

until the late 1980s, when it became popular with visi-

tors taking the cruise from Guilin. Not as tranquil as it

used to be, Yangshuo remains a good base to explore

the surrounding peaks and river, as well as a few caves

and outlying villages. Hiring a bicycle is one of the

easiest ways to explore the area. Local specialties

include grapefruit-like pomelos and “beer fish” – served The forested Bilian Feng (Green
Lotus Peak), overlooking the river
at most restaurants in town. Yangshuo has recently
become one of Asia’s favorite rock-climbing centers,

with over 200 short routes already mapped out. } Bilian Feng & Yangshuo

Gongyuan

# daily. &

Situated close to the center

of town are two 328-ft

(100-m) high peaks which

can be climbed. To the

southeast of town, over-

looking the river, is the

towering Bilian Feng (Green

Lotus Peak), with a steep

track to the summit. The

second peak, Xilang Shan

(Man Hill), is situated in

Yangshuo Gongyuan to the

west of town. It has an easier

set of steps that lead to a

viewing pavilion. The park is

Ferries moored along the Li River, with karst hills rising in the distance also a pleasant place to stroll

and watch sessions of early-

P Xi Jie inn for merchants from morning tai ji quan.

An 820-ft (250-m) long cob- Jiangxi. The docks area at the

bled street running between river end, where ferries pull t Jianshan Si &

the highway and the Li River, in from Guilin, is covered in Underground Caves

Xi Jie (West Street) is lined ornamental paving and offers 3 miles (5 km) S of Yangshuo.

with restored rural architec- good views of the angular c or cycle. # 8:30am–5pm daily. &

ture dating from the Qing peaks upstream. In the area The only temple in the area

dynasty. Today, it has a glut north of the highway are around Yangshuo, Jianshan Si

of friendly restaurants, cafés, some lovely back alleys, and is built in a simple, late Qing-

guesthouses, and souvenir a lively produce market dynasty style, with wing-like

shops aimed at foreign visi- where locals shop. horsehead gables protecting

tors. Restaurants serve west-

ern cuisine such as wood-fire CORMORANT FISHING
pizzas and steak as well as

local specialties including a The Chinese have used tame cormorants to fish for thousands

variety of fresh fish dishes. of years, and this unusual technique is still practiced in south-

Shops sell a range of inex- ern areas. Fishermen set off on bamboo rafts after dark, with

pensive Chinese souvenirs, cormorants wearing collars to prevent them from swallowing

from Mao memorabilia and their catches. The birds swim

wooden theater masks to just below the surface along-

antique wooden panels, ba- side the raft towards a light

tiks, silk T-shirts, scroll paint- hanging from the bow. When

ings, modern and traditional a bird has made a catch, the

clothes, and pirated Western fisherman pulls it from the

music CDs. A few shops also water and retrieves the fish

sell factory-reject designer from the bird’s beak. Hour-

wear at bargain prices. The long viewing trips can be

Hongfu Hotel, located about Cormorant fishing at night organized during the summer

halfway down the street, was using lanterns months through most hotels.

built in the 19th century as an

GUIZHOU & GUANGXI 419

its doorway. Located nearby, take the main road south of VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
the Black Buddha, Assembled town toward the river and

Dragons, and New Water turn right about 220 yards 44 miles (70 km) S of Guilin.

Caves are a series of under- (200 m) before the bridge. * 60,000. c from Guilin.

ground caverns discovered in From here, it’s an hour to n 8th Fl, 362 Zhongshan Zhong

the 1990s. Locals show Yueliang Shan. Close by, Lu, Da Shijie. 8 tours & boat trips

people around the cool, Longtan Village has several available. For rock climbing visit

damp, and muddy caves unrestored old buildings, the cafés on Xian Qian Jie particu-

using hand-held flashlights. with whitewashed brick larly Lizard Lounge & Karst Café.

Although visitors have to walls, wooden doors,

negotiate tall bamboo and tiled roofs support-

ladders and scramble ing intricate “flying ending in 1, 4, or 7. One of

over rocks, the lack eaves” drawn out the best in the region, it is

of well-laid paths into points. visited by throngs of villagers

and garish colored P Fuli Village who bargain for livestock,
lights that usually seasonal fruit, plastic buckets,

illuminate subter- 5 miles (8 km) E of wooden pipes, all kinds of

ranean rivers and Yangshuo. c or cycle. vegetables, and bamboo fans

waterfalls is Pomelos on sale 4 ( – a famous local product. To
refreshing.
at market The pretty village of the north is Donglang Shan, a

Fuli is a quiet rural narrow hill often paired with

} Yueliang Shan center except when it hosts a Yangshuo’s Xilang Shan in

4 miles (7 km) S of Yangshuo. busy produce market on days local legends.

c or cycle. # daily. &

The distinctive crescent-

shaped arch that pierces

Yueliang Shan (Moon Hill)

has made it the most famous

of Yangshuo’s peaks. Stone

steps, steep in places, lead to

the base of the arch, a half-

hour climb through bamboo

thickets and bushes. The view

of the Li River valley from

the far side of the arch is

magnificent, with fields laid

out below, encircling the

jagged karst pinnacles. The

best time to visit is during the

summer rains, when the fields

are bright green. If traveling

by bicycle, visitors should The pretty countryside surrounding Assembled Dragons Cave, Yangshuo

Guilin 0 km 3
0 miles
Li River • 3

Dragon Baisha Puyi
Bridge
•
Longtou
Yulong He Shan

• •

Yangshuo Fuli

Liugong •

Jinbao He • Lima

Longtan • Yueliang T Assembled Li River
Shan Dragons Cave

KEY • T

Major road Gaotian Black
Minor road Buddha Caves
T Caves
T New Water Caves

Wuzhou

420 THE SOUTHWEST

central to the indigo-clad

Dong community, which has

a population of around 2.5

million. Typical Dong

architecture, consisting of

wooden houses, towers, and

bridges, can be found in

several villages up in the hills

to the north. The hospitable

Dong usually offer visitors

their favorite douxie cha or

oil tea, a bitter soup made

with rice and fried tea leaves.

On the south bank of the

river is an 11-story Drum

Tower, the largest in the

region. It was built in 2003,

A view of the complex terracing on Longji Titian, Longsheng using entirely traditional

Longsheng e hunting rather than farming. techniques. The structure is
supported by four 154-ft

They are also especially skilled (47-m) pillars, each carved

in embroidery, weaving, and from separate tree trunks.

56 miles (90 km) NW of Guilin. dyeing. The Zhuang village of The third story of the tower
* 170,000. c minibuses from Ping An sits near the top of a houses a large drum.
ridge in the heart of Longji
Longsheng to Ping An. Titian. It offers basic accom- The small Fulu Buddhist
Nunnery, situated on the hill

THE HIGH RIDGES of the modations in traditional behind, is a little unusual,
Rongshui River Valley
wooden buildings, as well as since the Dong community is

surround the township of walking trails leading to other mainly Daoist. The

Longsheng, which serves as a settlements in the area. nunnery’s three

good base for exploring the halls contain a

adjoining countryside dotted Sanjiang r mix of statuary
with Zhuang and Yao villages. representing

To the southwest is a steep both religions.

range of 3,280-ft (1,000-m) Situated to the

high hills, known as Longji 109 miles (175 km) NW of north of the river,

Titian (Dragon Backbone Guilin. * 330,000. £ c the County Mu-

Terraces), whose lower and n Wind & Rain Bridge Travel seum stands next to

middle reaches have been Service (0772) 861 7088. the Government

covered in rice terracing by Bamboo shoots for Guesthouse. The

the Zhuang people (see p424). ITUATED ON the sale, Sanjiang museum exhibits
Rongshui River, several scale models
SThe Zhuang, who form the
majority of Longsheng’s Sanjiang was the base of of traditional Dong architec-

population, live in traditional resistance against the ture, photographs, and maps

wooden houses. On the hill- Japanese during World War II, displaying Sanjiang’s strategic

tops lie a few villages, inhab- when Danzhou, the former wartime role. Also displayed

ited by the Yao, an ethnic regional capital located 22 here are a number of colorful

community that consists of miles (35 km) south, was costumes worn by the Dong,

numerous sub-groups, some captured. Today, Sanjiang is Zhuang, and Yao communities

of whom still depend on the main town of a region during festivals.

The intricately-crafted fengyu qiao, wind-and-rain bridge, Chengyang

GUIZHOU & GUANGXI 421

DONG ARCHITECTURE

The Dong, who dwell in forested hill country where stone

is of poor quality, make efficient use of timber. Nails are

avoided, and even the largest structures are skillfully pegged

together. As incomes rise in the region, there’s been a

resurgence of traditional building with villages competing

with one another to sponsor the construction of

bridges and towers. Drum towers are usually square-

based, with multiple octagonal eaves. Originally

they served as watchtowers and rallying places for

the village, many with adjoining theater stages for use

during festivals. Elaborate, covered wind-and-rain

bridges are also places for villagers to meet, and are Traditional drum tower in one of

believed to ward off inauspicious energy. Chengyang’s pretty rural hamlets

ENVIRONS: The most acces- Zhaoxing t have been rebuilt since, they
sible Dong villages lie 11 miles are charmingly well-worn and
(18 km) north of Sanjiang at 75 miles (120 km) NW of Sanjiang. impressively intricate. The
Chengyang, a group of c from Sanjiang. & bridges and theaters are
hamlets on the far side of the embellished with mirror frag-
Linxi River, accessible by bus ONE OF THE MOST attractive ments and detailed moldings.
or minivan taxi from Sanjiang. Dong villages, sprinkled
Connecting Chengyang to the with fish ponds and bisected The Dong community here
main road are over 100 by a stream, Zhaoxing sits in still makes and wears tradi-
bridges. One of the most a wide, flat valley and is tional dark-blue clothing,
exquisite is a fengyu qiao, a famed throughout China for which is hand-beaten with
wind-and-rain bridge, dating its impressive collection of wooden mallets until soft, and
from 1916. The 256-ft (78-m) traditional architecture then varnished with eggwhite
long bridge, built from (although there are a few to ward off mosquitoes.
pegged cedar – no nails are modern buildings found on
said to have been used – took its outskirts). The town is Numerous muddy tracks
12 years to complete. The roof divided into five sections, lead through the surrounding
is especially elaborate, with each inhabited by a different rice terraces. One trail leads
five raised pavilions, each built clan, and each possessing its 4 miles (7 km) uphill to the
in a different regional style. own drum tower, theater, and small village of Tang An,
These beautifully-built bridges wind-and-rain bridge. The packed with wooden
not only served a practical original structures were buildings. Jitang, 2 miles
function, but acted as shrines destroyed during the Cultural (3 km) south of Zhaoxing, is
to river spirits as well. Most Revolution, and although they also worth the steep climb.
of the altars have now been It has some old drum towers
moved to the riverbank, as that survived the vandalism
the incense is considered of the early 1970s.
a fire hazard.
A cluster of Dong wooden houses, Zhaoxing
Basic accommodations are
available for visitors interested
in exploring the ethnic villages
and surrounding countryside.
Each hamlet in Chengyang
houses a small drum tower,
while the surrounding fields
are irrigated by bamboo pipes
fed by huge, spindly water-
wheels, also made from
plaited bamboo.

The highland market town
of Dutong lies two hours by
bus north of Sanjiang, on a
separate road past numerous
Dong villages. Situated near
the Hunanese border, it pro-
vides basic accommodations
for visitors. A cobbled walk-
ing track leads uphill to
Gaoding, a cluster of six
drum towers and 100-or-so
dark-roofed wooden houses.

422 THE SOUTHWEST

Wuzhou y

137 miles (220 km) SE of Guilin. Xi Shan’s tea plantation surrounded by mist-covered forest, Guiping
* 330,000. c
Guiping u processed and rolled into
ON THE NORTH BANK of the
Xi Jiang, Wuzhou is a what look like miniature
large town, adjacent to the
Guangdong border. The town black cheroots. They are
served as a staging post and
trading center for Europeans 137 miles (220 km) S of Guilin. c steeped one at a time to
during the 19th century, when produce a faintly bitter, yet
goods were transported by
boat between Guangzhou LOCATED at the confluence of refreshing brew.
and the southwest. Numerous Yu and Xun rivers, Xi Shan itself can be easily
colonial structures remain in
Wuzhou’s old eastern quarter, Guiping is an unremarkable ascended from town. The
especially along the pedes-
trianized Dadong Shang city surrounded by lush 2-hour hike, past tea
Lu, where modern Chinese
produce markets contrast mountain scenery. plantations and
with the formal European-
style buildings. Its importance as a through bamboo

The Snake Repository is regional center has groves, passes a
the largest in China and is
located northeast of the recently declined, due number of Tang-era
center in Shigu Chong. Up
to half a million snakes, to the cessation of Buddhist temples.
including cobras, kraits, pit
vipers, and rat snakes, are river traffic during Longhua Si, deep in
bred on the premises to
supply restaurants and the the 1990s. Its main the forest on the
traditional medicine market.
Snakes are revered for their industry is now upper slopes of the
flexibility and ability to
slough off their skin, so their sugar cane. mountain, was built
parts are primarily used to help
cure arthritis and skin com- Guiping is during the Song
plaints. Summer is the better
time to visit; in winter, the renowned for its dynasty and heavily
snakes tend to be sluggish and
the stocks may be depleted. high-quality green Lion statute from renovated during

O Snake Repository tea, xi shan cha, Longhua Si, Guiping the 1980s. It contains

Yugai Lu, Shigu Chong. # daily. & which grows on Xi numerous Buddhist

Shan (West Mountain), on statues. The temples sell Xi

the outskirts of town. The Shan cha, which is said to be

long leaves of tea are superior to that sold in

THE TAIPING REBELLION

After being defeated in the 1840–42 Opium Wars,
China was forced to pay a huge indemnity to Britain.
Taxation was increased, causing great hardship in poor
rural areas such as southern Guangxi. People’s discontent
with the weak Qing rule was fuelled by Hong Xiuquan,
who formed a 10,000-strong militia, known as Taiping
Tianguo (Kingdom of Heavenly Peace), at Jintian village
in January 1851. Marching north, the Taipings captured
Nanjing, making it their capital in March 1853. Influenced
by Hong’s personal interpretation of Christianity, the
Taipings initially planned the overthrow of the Qing
dynasty along with traditional religions, aiming to
establish an egalitarian society. However, poor military
planning and Hong’s paranoia saw the movement falter.
In July 1864, imperial forces wrested back Nanjing after
a siege in which Hong died. It is thought that 20 million
A depiction of imperial forces recapturing people were killed during the 13-year-long Taiping
Nanjing from the Taiping rebels in 1864 Uprising, one of the world’s bloodiest civil conflicts.

GUIZHOU & GUANGXI 423

Guiping shops. The summit DONGSON DRUM
offers splendid views of the
river plains. Named for an archeological site

ENVIRONS: A 40-minute in Vietnam, the oldest Dongson
journey by bus from Guiping,
the hamlet of Jintian lies Drums are over 2,200 years old.
16 miles (25 km) north of
town. From the bus stop, it’s They appear to have originated in
a 3-mile (5-km) walk across
rural fields to the location of Thailand or Vietnam, from where
the first headquarters of Hong
Xiuquan’s Taiping Army. A their use spread across Southeast
museum here houses wea-
pons, paintings, and maps Asia. The characteristic narrow-
recording the main events of
the Taiping Uprising. waisted drums are made from bronze,

and reach up to 3 ft (1 m) in height,

in styles that vary greatly from region

to region. In Guangxi, timpani are Bronze drum

marked with a 12-pointed star, and are from Nanning

often decorated with frog figurines,

while their middles are finely chased in stylized designs of

warriors in boats wearing feathered headdresses. Originally

used as storage vessels, later, as Ming historians observed,

they came to symbolize chiefly authority amongst the

Zhuang. They were played during agricultural ceremonies,

and still feature as percussion instruments in some festivals

amongst Guizhou’s Miao community.

Waterfall pouring down a Xi Shan Guangxi capital of Nanning is located in the southwestern
rock face, Guiping somewhat removed from the corner of the province, such as
rest of the province. Founded Detian Falls and the Zuo Jiang
Nanning i in the Song dynasty, Nanning (see pp424–5). Nanning itself
became the provincial capital has only a handful of monu-
218 miles (350 km) SE of Guilin. in 1912, until it was occupied ments and sights, but is a nice
* 1,300,000. k £ c by the Japanese forces during enough place with a laid-back
n 40 Xinmin Lu, (0771) 280 4960. World War II. Reinstated as atmosphere and many bustling
the capital in 1949, Nanning markets. It is also the main city
NESTLED IN THE southern later served as an important of the Zhuang minority (see
half of the province, only center for supplies going to p424), who make up over 60
120 miles (200 km) from the North Vietnam during the percent of the population.
Vietnamese border, the Vietnam War in the 1960s. In
1979, relations with Vietnam The busy shopping district
soured, and China went to war of Xingning Lu, with its
with its southern neighbor; well-restored European-style
Nanning once more became buildings, is a reminder that
a military stronghold. Today, Nanning was opened to
the city is expanding rapidly, foreign trade in 1907. The
partly as a consequence of Provincial Museum on
cross-border traffic, which Minzu Dadao has a display
resumed in the 1990s. of over 50 antique bronze
“Dongson” drums in many
Nanning makes a useful different styles, some of which
transit point for those heading are about 2,000 years old.
to Vietnam or towards sights
On Renmin Dong Lu,
Renmin Park is planted with
a variety of tropical plants
such as giant taro, heliconias,
bird-nest ferns, and philoden-
drons. To the east of the city
on Chahua Yuan Lu, Jinhua
Cha Gardens exhibits the rare
Golden Camellia, only found
in the mountains of Guangxi
and quite possibly now ex-
tinct in the wild. Unusual for
a camellia, its petals are large
and rather tough.

Vegetable vendors with their baskets at an outdoor market, Nanning E Provincial Museum

Minzu Dadao. # 9am–5:30pm

daily. &

Y Renmin Park

1 Renmin Dong Lu. # daily. &

424 THE SOUTHWEST

Ancient rock art on the cliff of Hua Shan along the Zuo Jiang dragon-boat race. A shaman,
identifiable by his elaborate
Zuo Jiang o p423) that were found in headdress, appears at the
Vietnam and southern China. center of all this activity.
62 miles (100 km) SW of Nanning. It is believed that the artists
£ to Ningming. c to Ningming. were the Luo Yue, ancestors Panlong, a tiny hamlet on
4 sampan to Hua Shan from of the indigenous Zhuang. the river between Ningming
Ningming. & 8 contact the Nan- and Hua Shan, has gorgeous
ning tourist office for river tours. The first paintings are about views of the rural peaked
Longrui Reserve & 12 miles (20 km) upstream landscape. Lodging is available
from Ningming, but the largest here in a handful of pretty
ARIVER TOUR up the peaceful concentration is situated at wooden buildings. Paths lead
Zuo Jiang in a sampan Hua Shan (Flower Mountain), from Panlong through the
hired from Ningming, a small about three hours or so along Longrui Nature Preserve,
settlement on the railroad the river. A steep cliff rising meant to protect the very rare
between Nanning and Ping- 33 ft (10 m) above the water white-headed leaf monkey.
xiang, takes visitors past prehis- is covered in as many as 1,200 A sighting of these black-and-
toric rock art and towering stick figures, mostly male, white primates amongst the
karst scenery. Produced almost engaged in what appears to dense forest and undergrowth
2,000 years ago between the be a ritual dance. A frequently is unlikely, but its rugged paths
Warring States and the late recurring symbol is a small are well worth exploring.
Han period, the paintings of circle, thought to represent a
over 2,600 human figures are bronze drum, around which Gatetower along the Vietnamese
scattered across 70 locations several figures seem to dance border, Pingxiang
along the river. Painted in with their arms raised as if to
red-brown ferrous oxide, they invoke the gods. A few carry Pingxiang p
mainly depict mass shamanistic swords or ride on the back of
ceremonies. The designs show beasts. Only two of them are 93 miles (150 km) SW of Nanning.
marked similarities to those on clearly women, depicted with £c
bronze Dongson drums (see long, flowing hair. Other
figures include dogs, a horse, SURROUNDED BY vast fields of
farmers, and rowers in a sugar cane and the jagged
hills so typical of this region,
Pingxiang is a busy market

A group of Zhuang women THE ZHUANG COMMUNITY
in traditional clothes
With a population of around 18 million, the Zhuang form China’s
largest ethnic minority. Most live in the Guangxi Zhuang Autono-
mous Region, although there are also communities in adjoining
provinces and Vietnam. They speak their own language, which
uses the Roman alphabet instead of Chinese characters. Visitors will
see bilingual road signs all across the region, particularly in Guilin
and Nanning. Apart from their language, it is hard to distinguish
urban Zhuang from the Han Chinese, although in the country the
men often dress in turbans and black pyjamas, while the women
wear blue embroidered jackets. The Zhuang are mainly animistic,
which explains the lack of Buddhist and Daoist temples in Guangxi.
One of their most famous festivals is Buffalo Soul Day, held in
honor of the Buffalo King’s birthday on the eighth day of the fourth
lunar month (Apr/May). On this day, all buffalos are washed and
groomed, fed a special rice dish, and given the day off work.

GUIZHOU & GUANGXI 425

The magnificent Detian Falls surrounded by spectacular karst hills

town and the railhead for the does not possess the sheer is a 1.2-mile (2-km) stretch of
crossing into Vietnam. Visitors force of Niagara, but is more narrow lanes and quietly
require a valid visa to enter gently beautiful, falling in disintegrating 1920s plaster-
Vietnam at the border cross- stages over rocks and around work, at least one former
ing, Youyi Guan (Friendship islets, and surrounded by an church, and several colonn-
Pass), another 9 miles (15 km) emerald karst landscape of aded shopfronts where a heady
away. The current border was jagged hills and plowed fish market is often held.
demarcated as early as the fields. It is possible to swim
Ming era, and a good stretch in the broad pool beneath the About 2 miles (3 km) west
of the original 33-ft (10-m) falls, and to take a bamboo of the center farther down
stone wall still stands, along raft into the spray near its Zhongshan Lu is the Hainan
with a restored watchtower base. Remember that a border Ferry Port. Lying beyond is
and gateway under which runs through the center of the a small harbor crammed with
visitors pass. The tower’s river – do not stray too far motorized junks, rusty cargo
second floor houses a diorama across. A road running along ships, and battered trawlers.
of the area and offers views the top of the falls leads to a
into Vietnam. An early 20th- stone tablet from the 1950s Beihai’s other attraction,
century European-style build- that marks out the border in Yin Tan (Silver Beach), lies
ing on the Chinese side was both French and Chinese. 6 miles (10 km) south of
built by the French when they town. Although it has a range
controlled this region, known Beihai s of resorts and restaurants, Yin
then as Indo-China. For those Tan’s monotonous stretch
crossing into Vietnam, the rail 93 miles (150 km) S of Nanning. does not compare with the
line for Hanoi resumes 3 ~ £ c g to Hainan Island. lovely beaches of Hainan.
miles (5 km) away on the far
side at Dong Dang.

Detian Falls a ATROPICAL PORT CITY of about Façade of an old colonial church
400,000 people, Beihai along Zhongshan Lu, Beihai
93 miles (150 km) W of Nanning. c is one of the departure
via Daxin to Shuolong, minibus from points for ferries to Hainan
Shuolong to falls, 10 miles (16 km). & Island (see pp304–5). Many of
the city’s residents are ethnic
ASPECTACULAR SET of broad Chinese from Vietnam, whose
cataracts dividing China expulsion from that country
from Vietnam, Detian is the in the late 1970s sparked a
second largest transnational brief attempt by China to
waterfall in the world, after invade its neighbor.
Niagara Falls on the US-
Canada border. The two Established over 2,000 years
attractions, however, have ago, the city prospered during
little else in common. Detian the Han era, when it was a
busy port. The old Colonial
Quarter on the northern
seafront along Zhongshan Lu,



THE
NORTHEAST

INTRODUCING THE NORTHEAST 428–435
LIAONING, JILIN,

& HEILONGJIANG 436–455

428 THE NORTHEAST

The Northeast at a Glance •

LYING IN THE PERIPHERAL CORNER of China, the Northeast MOHE
(Dongbei) abounds in raw beauty and mineral TAHE •
wealth, and was inhabited for centuries by indomita-
ble tribes including the Khitan, Mongols, and Jurchen BISHUI •
(Manchu), the latter ruling China for over 250 years. HUMA •
Today, the region’s three provinces of Liaoning, Jilin,
and Heilongjiang form China’s industrial heartland, NENJIANG •
although the many lakes, mountains, and rugged bor- WUDALIAN CHI w
derlands offer scenic getaways. In Liaoning, Shenyang’s
palaces are testament to its great Manchu past, while
Dalian is a fast-moving city with architectural marvels.
The city of Jilin, once the capital of Manchukuo (1933–
45), the puppet state installed by the Japanese, has
stunning winter landscapes. Changchun, the capital of
Jilin province, has a thriving automobile industry,
while Heilongjiang is famed for its Harbin Ice Festival.

301

QIQIHA’ER

•

ZHALONG NATURE q
RESERVE

DAQING •

203

BAICHENG k

•

302

JILIN

The ornate paifang or gateway to the rugged scenery of Bingyu ~ ~
Valley (Bingyu Gou), Liaoning
CHANGCHUN 6

SIGHTS AT A GLANCE 303

Towns & Cities 101
Changchun 6
Dalian 5 Chifeng FUXIN
Dandong 3
Harbin 9 • 202 201 •
Jilin 7 1 SHENYANG
Jinzhou 2 101 L I A O N I N G ~ TO
Shenyang 1
102
Nature Reserves, Mountains 2
& Areas of Natural Beauty JINZHOU
Bingyu Valley 4
Changbai Shan pp448–9 8 •
Mudanjiang Jingpo Hu 0
Wu Da Lian Chi & the River JIANCHANG
Border w
Zhalong Nature Reserve q Beijing 4 3 DANDONG
BINGYU
~
VALLEY

5 DALIAN

k

The Nen Jiang, a tributary of the Amur River winding through Heilongjiang’s frozen landscape

INTRODUCING THE NORTHEAST 429

HEIHE SEE ALSO

• • Where to Stay pp570–71
• Where to Eat pp595–6

• Offering incense at the Buddhist Jile Si, Harbin

SUNWU

WUYILING

•

HEILONGJIANG
202 202
201HEGANG • KEY

JIAMUSI RAOHE k International airport
• ~ Domestic airport

• National highway
Major road
• SHUANGYASHAN Minor road
Railroad
• Provincial border

BAOQING

9 LINKOU
HARBIN
•

MUDANJIANG

0

~

~ DONGNING •

7
JILIN

•

DUNHUA

HUADIAN

•

FUSONG 8
CHANGBAI
• SHAN

• 201 The icy blue waters of the volcanic Tian Chi – Heaven’s
BAISHAN Lake – in Changbai Shan

ONGHUA

0 km 100 GETTING THERE
0 mile 100
The major cities – Shenyang, Dalian, Changchun, Harbin, and Jilin –
are connected to Beijing by air and rail. There are express buses
from Beijing to Shenyang, Dalian, and Changchun. Regular trains
and buses also ply within the region. A few flights operate bet-
ween the major cities, including Harbin and Dalian. In winter,
popular destinations such as Jilin and Harbin are relatively easy to
reach, while remoter areas such as Jingpo Hu and Changbai Shan
are more difficult to access. Within cities, taxis are the best option.

430 THE NORTHEAST

A PORTRAIT OF THE NORTHEAST

SANDWICHED BETWEEN Russia, Korea, and Inner Mongolia, the three
northeastern provinces constitute China’s easternmost extent.
Even though the prevalent culture is Han Chinese, the
Northeast’s geography, history, and extended external boundaries
have shaped a distinct regional identity. The region’s attractions range
from the bustling sprawl of its big cities to the rugged, and sublime
terrain beyond, and the cultural mix of its border towns.

It is hard to categorize the was the cradle of the magnificent

Northeast (Dongbei) – it enjoys civilization that ruled China

hot summers but glacial from 1644 until the collapse of

winters, and while heavy imperial rule in 1911.

industry and socialist planning Shenyang, Liaoning’s present

blight some cityscapes, others capital, became the Manchu

sport elegant pockets of capital in 1625, and the site of

colonial architecture. And their still-impressive Imperial

parts of the region may be Palace. Here they perfected

revelling in China’s recent Statue of twin Buddhas, their Eight Banner system of
economic boom, others suffer Bei Ta, Shenyang color-coded hereditary social

from chronic unemployment. and administrative divisions

Encompassing the three provinces of (see pp432–3) and plotted the over-

Liaoning, Jilin, and Heilongjiang, the throw of the Ming dynasty in 1644,

Northeast was a latecomer to the whereupon they moved their capital to

Chinese empire and is sometimes the Forbidden City in Beijing. Even

considered as little more than an today, the region’s Manchu population

appendix to the rest of the country. As take great pride in their heritage and

part of former Manchuria, however, it still adhere to the Eight Banners.

Stately Russian architecture in Daliqu district, Harbin

INTRODUCING THE NORTHEAST 431

southern cousins, they

speak Mandarin with a

coarse, albeit intelligible

accent. Unlike the sophis-

ticated cuisine of Hong

Kong and Shanghai, the

local food – including

jiaozi (dumplings), dun

(stews), and tudou

(potatoes) – is hearty and

filling. The temperament

of the people matches

the vigorous landscapes

Façade of the Puppet Emperor’s Palace, Changchun that range from dense

forest to volcanic regions

In more recent times, the Northeast and the tough terrain along the Russian

attracted the attentions of Russia and North Korean borders. These areas

and Japan, both of which have helped offer plenty of outdoor options

shape the region’s destiny. At the end of including trekking and bird-watching,

the 19th century the Russians, interested particularly in Zhalong Nature Reserve.

in the ice-free port of Lushun, tried to The border town of Dandong has a

annexe parts of Manchuria and built thriving tourist industry, catering

part of the Trans-Siberian Railway mainly to North Korean visitors.

line, before being humiliated by Despite the unfortunate effects of

Japan. The area suffered again industrialization, there is much

during the Japanese occupation worth seeing. The onion domes

of the 1930s and 40s, when it was and Byzantine ornamentation

renamed Manchukuo and Pu Yi visible in Harbin’s buildings are

was installed as Puppet Emperor. distinctly Russian, a legacy of the

The brutal occupation left deep Door handle city’s cross-cultural links. Dalian,
scars on the region’s psyche along Confucius Temple on the Yellow Sea, is a dynamic

with some pitiful sights, such and progressive city that has

as the Japanese Germ Warfare enjoyed the same economic success as

Experimental Base near Harbin. Shanghai. Known as the “Hong Kong of

Japanese occupation came to an end the North,” it adds an affluent touch to

after World War II, ushering in a period the Northeastern rustbelt.

of industrialization under Chairman

Mao. His camaraderie with Russia in the

1950s resulted in the installation of a

Stalinist state-sector economy. The

peaceful relationship was shortlived and

conflicts soon flared along the border.

The Northeast’s rich mineral wealth

has made it China’s industrial heartland.

However, in recent years, under-

investment and ruthless downsizing

with huge state-sector layoffs have

resulted in high unemployment and

sporadic demonstrations.

Centuries of hardship have molded

the character of the Dongbeiren (North-

easterners). Resolute, unaffected,

forthright, and hospitable, they are

looked upon by their compatriots as a

hardy, stalwart people, prone to hard A secluded bay by the blue waters of the volcanic
drinking. Taller and stockier than their Jingpo Hu, Heilongjiang

432 THE NORTHEAST

The Manchu Dynasty

THE FINAL OVERLORDS of the Middle
Kingdom, the Manchus from the North-
east, took advantage of a China weakened

by peasant rebellion to invade and establish

the Qing or “pure” dynasty in 1644. This

Carving from foreign Manchu court preserved much of
Manchu palace China’s governing apparatus and over time

absorbed local ways. Despite providing some

of China’s most illustrious emperors, including Kangxi (see

p122) and Qianlong, the Qing declined into an ineffectual The queue, a long plaited
hairstyle that has come to
torpor. Coupled with the seizure of territories by foreign symbolize Chinese traditions,
was a Manchu import im-
powers, the Qing failure to modernize led to the collapse posed on Han Chinese men.

of Manchu legitimacy and the final downfall of the dynasty.

THE COURT AT THE FORBIDDEN CITY

Like the Ming before them, the Manchu
Qing established their court in Beijing. The
Manchus were the last dynastic occupants of

the Forbidden City. Served by as many as
3,000 eunuchs, they were immersed in a court

life of arcane ceremony and ritual until the
dynasty was unseated by the founding of
the Republic of China in 1912.

Nurhachi (1559–1626), the first
Manchu emperor, organized the
scattered tribes of the north-
east into eight banner units
in the early 17th century.
He moved his capital
to Shenyang, but did
not live to see the
subjugation of China.
After his death, his son
Abahai established
the Qing dynasty in
1636 and proceeded
to invade China.

The Manchu Imperial Palace in Shenyang was
begun during Nurhachi’s reign and completed by
Abahai. In 1644, when the Manchus toppled

the Ming, the Shenyang complex became a
“travelling palace”, used by the emperor
during tours of inspection.

Elaborate summer camping trips in Inner
Mongolia were undertaken by the early Qing
rulers, as a break from Confucian court life.
They hunted, practiced archery, and slept in
yurts, in order to preserve their Manchu vigor.

INTRODUCING THE NORTHEAST 433

Qianlong (r. 1735–1796), the fourth Qing
emperor, was a generous patron of the arts. His

lengthy reign was also marked by territorial
expansion, including the absorption
of Xinjiang, and was largely a
period of Chinese prosperity.

Yuanming Yuan, the Garden of
Perfect Brightness (see p103), was
designed by Jesuits for the Qianlong

emperor. Much of its grandiose
architecture was destroyed by
French and English troops in 1860.

Jesuit missionary Adam
Schall von Bell (1591–1666)
impressed the Manchu court
with his knowledge of astron-
omy. The Jesuits realized that

having influence in
China required mas-
tering the Confucian
Classics and Mandarin.

In 1793, Lord Macartney arrived with elaborate
gifts from King George III, seeking to establish trade
between Britain and China. Macartney refused
to kowtow and was rebuffed by the Qianlong
emperor, who refused Britain a single concession.

THE BOXER REBELLION The Empress Dowager,
Cixi (see p101), was deeply
The Boxers, a band of xenophobic rebels from north China conservative and a shrewd
who rose up to rid China of the “foreign devils,” drew from manipulator. Dismissive of
superstitious rituals that they believed made them invulner- foreign powers, she appointed
pro-Boxer Prince Duan as
able. Cixi, seeking an opportunity to Minister of Foreign Affairs.
strike back at the foreign powers, allied
herself to their cause. The rebels laid
waste to Beijing’s Legation Quarter in
1900, while besieging the district’s
foreign population. The siege was
finally lifted by an eight-power allied
force. The Qing government was forced
to sign The Boxer Protocol which,
among other conditions, allowed the
stationing of foreign troops in Beijing.

Boxer massacre of Chinese Christians

434 THE NORTHEAST

Trans-Siberian Railway

THE TERM TRANS-SIBERIAN RAILWAY refers to three services: Conductor and train on the
the Trans-Siberian, the Trans-Mongolian, and the Trans-Siberian Railway
Trans-Manchurian. In 1891 Russia decided to join the
extremities of her empire by rail. A short cut through
Manchuria was negociated with China and the line was
completed in 1903. War with Japan forced the Russians
to cede the railroad to them in 1905 and build a new
line skirting Manchuria – the Trans-Siberian route was
finished in 1916. The Trans-Mongolian route was added
in the 1940s and 50s. In an era of jet travel, this epic
week-long journey is an experience not to be missed.

Orthodox priest running a mobile religious
service in Manchuria at the turn of the 20th
century. Today the historic Russian presence
in the Northeast can still be seen in Harbin,
Lushun, and border towns like Manzhouli.

Steam trains were finally replaced in 2002, The train carves its way
although electrification began in 1939. through the grasslands of
Because of differences in the track widths of the north Manchurian plain.
Chinese and Russian lines, huge cranes lift
the carriages up onto the correct width
“bogeys” when crossing the border.

This 1907 poster advertises
the romance of a winter trip
on the Trans-Siberian Railway.
The poster’s distinct Japanese
feel derives from Japan’s
occupation of Manchuria
and Korea at the time.

The standard of
luxury is reasonable.

(The Chinese deluxe
carriage has showers.) If

the dining car doesn’t
appeal, at each stop there’s
a throng of vendors on the

platforms selling goods.

INTRODUCING THE NORTHEAST 435

The longest railway RUSSIAN FEDERATION
service in the world at
nearly 6,000 miles (9,500 Yekaterinburg Lake
km), it takes up to 7 days Omsk
Moscow Bykal
to cover the journey.
Irkutsk Ulan-Ude
KEY
KAZAKHSTAN MONGOLIA
Trans-Siberian
Harbin
Trans-Mongolian
Vladivostok
Trans-Manchurian
C H I N A Beijing

TRANS-MANCHURIAN RAILWAY The Trans-
Mongolian is
The Vostok makes the six-day trip once a week probably the most
from Beijing through Shanhaiguan and Harbin, interesting route
before heading through the spectacular Manchurian of the three: it goes
plain, the huge expanse of Russia, and back. through China –
past the Great Wall
and Datong, site of
the Yungang Caves;
via Mongolia and
its grasslands; and
finally through the
expanse of Russia.
However, it also
requires three visas.

TRAVELERS’ TIPS Lake Baykal’s cliffs proved problematic
for the builders. They had to chisel miles
• You can book tickets through of tunnels out of solid rock and construct
CITS Beijing – see www.cits.com many bridges. It was worth it in
• Summer is the peak season; Fall the end because the southern
is quieter; the train is heated, but end of the lake provides all three
Winter can be very cold outside. lines with some of the most
• www.monkeyshrine.com has a picturesque scenery of the trip.
lot of useful information about
the service and can arrange trips. Looking out the window
• Bring dried noodle snacks, hot occupies most of your time
chocolate, a bowl, and cutlery as on the trip – when not
there is boiling water on tap. meeting other travelers.
• Arrange for at least one or two
stops on the way – separate Moscow is the end (or indeed start)
ticket required for each stop. for the three Trans-Siberian Railway
• Be prepared to drink vodka.
services. It is possible to go on to St.
Petersburg and the Baltic Sea.
However, Moscow has plenty of

museums, churches, and grand
architecture to see, and deserves a

few days of exploration.



THE NORTHEAST 437

LIAONING, JILIN, & HEILONGJIANG

STRETCHING FROM Shanhaiguan – the Great Wall’s terminus at the
Yellow Sea – to the Siberian borders in the north, the provinces of
Liaoning, Jilin, and Heilongjiang cover 309,000 sq miles
(800,000 sq km), an area larger than Spain and Portugal. With a
population of over 100 million, they offer a variety of landscapes
from seaside ports to expanses of uninhabited forests and mountains.

The region was once part of influences color
erstwhile Manchuria, and the HEILONGJIANG Dandong town,
lavish palace of the Manchu
kings at Shenyang in the JILIN situated along the
heart of Liaoning stands LIAONING North Korean border.
testament to their might. On
Liaoning’s balmier southern Also straddling the
coast, Dalian features scenic border is the rugged,
coastal drives and fine, sandy beaches. spectacular Changbai
As the only ice-free port in the area, it Shan Reserve, which
was coveted by both Japan and Russia, abounds in lush, jagged
and occupied continuously by one or peaks and hiking oppor-
the other between 1895 and 1955. tunities. Its volcanic lake, Tian Chi, is
China’s deepest, rumored to be home
Japan’s imperialist stamp also to a mysterious aquatic beast.
survives in Jilin’s capital, Changchun, Other natural attractions include
from where China’s last emperor, Pu Liaoning’s Bingyu Valley with its
Yi, ruled the Japanese state of towering rock formations,
Manchukuo as a mere puppet. In Heilongjiang’s volcanic lakes – Wu Da
Heilongjiang, the city of Harbin has Lian Chi and Jingpo Hu, and the huge
heavy Russian overtones, clearly bird sanctuary at Zhalong Nature
evident in its buildings and Reserve, whose marshy expanse
restaurants, while strong Korean supports hundreds of species of birds
during the summer breeding season.

A secluded sandy cove in the Bangchuidao Scenic Area, Dalian
Pleasureboats on the Songhua River, near Jilin

438 THE NORTHEAST

Shenyang 1 feature of the eastern section,
fronted by pillars emblazoned
CAPITAL OF LIAONING PROVINCE and the largest with sinuous dragons. It was
city in the Northeast, Shenyang may lack here that Shunzhi (Aisin
the panache of Dalian, but it serves as an Gioro Fulin) was crowned as
the first Qing emperor, before
important transport and industrial hub at the he conquered China in 1644.
In front of the hall stand the
heart of the province. Of strategic importance Ten King Pavilions, once used
as offices by the chieftains of
in the state of Yan during the Warring States the “Eight Banners” – the
Manchu system of land and
Colossal period (475–221 BC), the town was first hereditary divisions. The
Mao statue palace has been undergoing
called Shenyang during the Mongol Yuan extensive restoration and
dynasty, before rising to prominence as the some halls that are usually
open may be closed. It
first Manchu capital in 1625, when it was known as achieved UNESCO World
Heritage Site status in 2004.
Mukden and was chosen as the setting for the Imperial

Palace, a splendid rival to Beijing’s Forbidden City.

P Mao Statue

Zhongshan Square.

The statue of Mao Zedong
situated in Zhongshan Square
in downtown Shenyang stands
as a reminder of a vanished
era. Mao statues tower over
public squares across China,
including such far-flung out-
posts as Lijiang (see pp390–
91) in Yunnan and Kashgar
(see pp510–11) in Xinjiang,
but this example is perhaps
the most histrionic, depicting
Mao’s giant monolithic figure
as a superman in an overcoat.

A throng of visitors outside the Dazheng Hall, Imperial Palace p North Pagoda

27 Beita Jie. # 8am–4pm daily. &

P Imperial Palace sections. The dominating Built in 1643, Bei Ta is the

171 Shenyang Lu. § (024) 2484 4192. feature of the central section only one of four temples and

# 9am–4:30pm daily. & ^ interiors. is the Chongzheng Hall, pagodas situated on the city

Second only in scale to the from where Abahai oversaw boundaries that exists in a

Forbidden City in Beijing, the political affairs and decent state of repair.

Imperial Palace is Shenyang’s received envoys from The surviving features

premier historical sight, situ- vassal lands and border of the original pagoda

ated in what was the center territories. In the court- are the Great Hall and

of the old city. Its construc- yard behind the hall, Falun Temple. The

tion began in 1625, during the Qingning Palace main hall is decorated

the reign of Nurhachi is where the emperor with murals of deities.

(1559–1626), leader of the and his concubines

Manchus. In 1644, Manchu resided. The Phoenix E 18 September

troops breached the Great Tower, the tallest Museum

Wall at Shanhaiguan (see structure in the 46 Wanghua Nanjie.

p128) and swarmed into imperial grounds can # 9am–4pm daily. & ^

China to establish the Qing be found here too. The Jiuyiba Lishi

dynasty. Serving as the In the western Bowuguan com-

imperial residence of both section, the Wensu Wei Tuo Buddha, memorates the
North Pagoda occupation of
Nurhachi and his son and heir Pavilion formerly

Abahai, the palace is com- housed one of seven Shenyang on Sept-

posed of 300 rooms. While its copies of the 36,078-volume ember 18, 1931, by Japanese

features reflect a pronounced Siku Quanshu (Complete troops. Its exhibits make up

Manchu and Mongol influ- Library of the Four Treasures), the most comprehensive

ence, the palace was obviously an encyclopedic collection of chronicle of the Japanese

an attempt to emulate its Chinese literature compiled aggression in Manchuria. Like

Ming counterpart, the in the Qing era, of which other museums with a similar

Forbidden City, Beijing. The only four sets survive. The theme, some of the displays

palace divides into three Dazheng Hall is the central can be rather gruesome.

LIAONING, JILIN, & HEILONGJIANG 439

VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

440 miles (700 km) NE of Beijing.
* 4,000,000. ~ Shenyang
Airport. £ South Train Station
or North Train Station. c South
Bus Station, Express Bus Station,
CAAC (buses to airport). n Room
217, Building 1, 189 Shifu Lu.

M East Tomb

3 miles (5 km) E of Shenyang.

# 8am–4pm daily. & ^ interiors.

The impressive East Tomb

(Dong Ling), the final resting

North Tomb’s ornate west wall and gateway place of Nurhachi and his

wife Yehenala, was completed

M North Tomb either side of the gate, in 1651. Arranged attractively

12 Taishan Lu, Beiling Gongyuan, the easternmost pavilion on the slopes of Mount

North Shenyang. # 8:30am–4:30pm was used as a dressing Tianzhu near the Hun

daily. & ^ interiors. room for visiting River, the three-storied

The huge Beiling Park houses emperors, while the tomb has a flight of 108

the tomb of Abahai (1592– westernmost was the steps leading to its main

1643), the son of Nurhachi, site for sacrificing ani- gate. The number 108 is

and his wife, Empress Borjijit. mals. A spirit way sacred to the

One of the largest and best- (shendao), lined Chinese; in the Daoist

preserved of China’s imperial with animal statues, celestial order, 108

mausoleums, the North Tomb leads to the Hall represents the 36

(Bei Ling) was built in 1643, of Eminent Favor stars of heaven

the year of the emperor’s (Ling’en Dian). Right and the 72 stars of hell.

death. The layout of the com- behind the hall lie the Mythical animal, The number is also

plex is typical of imperial tree-covered imperial North Tomb sacred to Buddhists,

Chinese tombs (see pp104–5), burial mounds, for- reflected in the 108

and is accessed through mally called Zhao Ling beads on Buddhist rosaries

Zhenghong Gate to the south. (the Luminous Tomb), and and the number of luohan

Of the pavilions lying on an exquisite dragon screen. in certain Buddhist sects.

SHENYANG CITY CENTER BEILING DAJIE
HUANGHE NAN DAJIE
Imperial Palace 1 5
Mao Statue 2 n
North Pagoda 3
North Tomb 5
18 September Museum 4

4

CHONGSHAN ZHONG LUSHENGLI CHONGSHAN DONG LU
HNEAPINJNIGNBGEIBEDIAJIJIEE B E I J I E
0 km 1 3 H UA
0 miles NAN
JIEWANG

1

£ North
Train Station

KEY c Express

Bus Station

£ Train station

c Long distance bus station SHIFU DA LU East Tomb
SHIFU DA LU
N SHAN LU
n Tourist information ZHONG 2 XI LU ZHONGJIE LU
c
N Post office QINGNIAN DAJIE DAXI LU 1
CAAC
Train South £
Station

Bus South c
Station

Shenyang
Airport

440 THE NORTHEAST

specimen of dushi Dandong 3

kongzi niao (Confu- 172 miles (277 km) SE of Shenyang.
* 600,000. ~ £ c
ciusornis dui hou), a n 20 Shiwei Lu, (0415) 213 7493.

winged, avian dino- PRESIDED OVER BY a statue of
Mao Zedong in the heart
saur with feathered of town, Dandong is located
along the Yalu Jiang (Yalu
features, that was River) in the eastern part of
Liaoning province. It would
unearthed in 1998 in have been little more than an
obscure outpost, ignored by
western Liaoning, a travelers, if it were not for its
proximity to North Korea.
region rich in dinosaur Today, the largest border town
in China, Dandong has an
remains. Other unmistakable Korean stamp,
from the shaokao (barbecue)
exhibits include dishes, to the signs in hangul
(the Korean script), and the
another dinosaur Korean shops and souvenirs.

with bird-like fea- Within reach of Dandong
are several other interesting
tures known as Sino- sights, and the town acts as a
useful launch pad to Changbai
sauropteryx, a 120- Shan (see pp448–9) and the
stunning mountain lake of
million-year-old and Tian Chi. Dandong’s trade-
mark sight is the Yalu Jiang
29-ft (9-m) fossilized Duan Qiao (Yalu River
Bridge) that reaches out into
tree, and fossilized the river alongside the bridge
connecting China with North
dinosaur eggs from Korea – this railway line runs
all the way from Beijing to
the Jurassic period. Pyongyang. The steel bridge
ends halfway along its full
Jutting out of Jinzhou span, the remainder having
been dismantled by the
The impressive Bijia Shan, connected to the Bay, 21 miles (34 km) Koreans. The surviving half in
Chinese territory bears the
mainland by an isthmus at low tide south of town, is

Jinzhou 2 Bijia Shan (Pen-
holder Mount). It is connect-

ed to the mainland by an

isthmus that emerges from the

125 miles (200 km) SW of Shenyang. sea at low tide. The island’s
£c peaks – which resemble a
Chinese pen rest – support

AN INDUSTRIAL CITY on the several Buddhist temples and
eastern shores of the offer magnificent views over

Liaoning Gulf, Jinzhou is the bay. Visitors who wish to

visited mainly for its store- walk to Bijia Shan along the

house of Jurassic period isthumus should check the

fossils, of which more than timings of low-tide before

300 are housed in the private planning a trip. An alternative

Wenya Museum (Bowuguan). way of reaching the island is

Set up by the amateur collector by taking a fishing boat.

Du Wenya, this unremarkable

three-story building stands on E Wenya Museum

Heping Lu although there is 33–13 Erduan, Heping Lu.

talk of relocating it in the near } Bijia Shan

future. The star attraction is a # 6am–6pm daily. &

The Yalu Jiang Duan Qiao, that once connected China with North Korea

LIAONING, JILIN, & HEILONGJIANG 441

Dramatic karst hills rising up from the river, Bingyu Valley

scars of combat, having been little-visited and restored Bingyu Valley 4

strafed in 1950 by US fighter vestige of the Great Wall, is

planes during the Korean located 20 km (12 miles)

War. The ruin serves as a northeast of Dandong, near 149 miles (240 km) NE of Dalian.
monument to the Kang Mei Jiuliancheng town, overlooking £ from Dalian to Zhuanghe, then
Yuan Chao Zhanzheng the Yalu River and the North bus. c from Dalian to Zhuanghe,
(War to Resist US
Aggression & Aid Korean border. This then bus to Bingyu Fengjingqu.
section of the

Korea), as the Awall, dating from the PICTURESQUE river valley,
Chinese refer to Bingyu Gou lies sprawled
reign of the Ming Wanli
their part in the conflict. emperor, is its easternmost across 42 sq miles (110 sq

Boats and speedboats offer point. In 2003, the Great km). It offers long riverside

cruises along the Yalu River, Wall Museum opened at walks and hikes in fabulous

for visitors who want to get the site, displaying relics trekking terrain overlooked

within two or three associated with the by jagged peaks, karst rock

feet of the hermit defensive barrier. formations, temples, and cliffs

kingdom. It is Since the North hollowed out by numerous

permitted to take Korean border is caves. Opportunities for

photographs of not always clearly climbing, fishing, and rafting

North Korea, A traffic policewoman marked, hiking are also available. The valley
though there are around this area can be reached via the town
on duty

few photogenic is inadvisable, in of Zhuanghe, northeast of

features – just factories, case visitors inadvertently Dalian. Accommodations are

civilians, and Stalinist cross over into North Korea. available for those who wish

housing. Those who wish to to stay overnight. It is best to

learn more about China’s P Yalu Jiang Duan Qiao avoid the holiday periods as

contribution to the Korean § (0415) 212 2145. # daily. & well as weekends during

War can visit the Museum to } Fenghuang Shan summer, when the valley

Commemorate Aiding Fengchen City. # daily. & receives crowds of visitors.

Korea & Resisting America,

with a plethora of exhibits on

the war. Even though the cap-

tions are almost exclusively in

Chinese, the nationalistic

refrain is clearly evident.

Located 31 miles (50 km)

northwest of town, the 2,760-

ft (840-m) Fenghuang Shan

(Phoenix Emperor Mountain)

is associated with Daoist

mythology. It supports a crop

of temples and caves, besides

offering some excellent hiking

trails. A good time to visit is

during the temple fair (miao-

hui), held every April. The

Hushan Great Wall, a Steps leading to a Daoist temple on Fenghuang Shan





444 THE NORTHEAST

Dalian 5 overlooked by a large statue

of a Russian soldier, that now

stands in nearby Lushun. The

SPARKLING WITH SELF-ASSURANCE and square is pleasantly laid out
confidence, Dalian is Northeast with grass and is lit at night.

Giant football, China’s most dynamic and attractive Dalian is famous for its
Labor Park city. It is famed throughout China for its beaches and these can easily
top-notch hotels, progressive economy, be reached by bus or taxi. In
modern and European-style architecture, the northeast of the Dalian
football team, and cleanliness. The city peninsula, just off Binhai Lu
near the Eighteen Bends, is
resembles Shanghai in its port setting, cosmopolitanism, the scenic Donghai Park.

Special Economic Zone status, and history of foreign Covering 1,112 acres (450 ha),

control, but has the added attraction of a coastline this seaside park has a 3,937-

dotted with scenic beaches and lawns. Located at the ft (1,200-m) long coastline. It
southernmost point of Northeast China near the tip of was founded to celebrate
the Liaodong peninsula, Dalian enjoys sea breezes and Dalian’s centennial anniver-
a warmer winter than other parts of the region. sary, and has striking statues
of oversized sea-creatures,

including a giant octopus and

a shark. There are fine sea

views, and the water is clean

though rather cold until mid-

July for swimming. The peb-

ble beach is popular with

visitors, who often bring tents

and beach towels and spend

the whole day here.

Farther south along the

coastal Binhai Lu, the

Bangchuidao Scenic Area

(Bangchuidao Jingqu) has the

best beaches on China’s east

coast, once reserved for party

Colonial architecture and modern highrises around Zhongshan Square officials and now open to all.

Binhai Lu makes for a mar-

Exploring Dalian shopping center, while the velous walk with fantastic

The city of Dalian has few Friendship Store lies farther views over the cliffs across

temples or monuments of east on Renmin Lu. the Yellow Sea. The next stop

note, but most visitors come Dotting Dalian are several is the more touristy Tiger

for its beaches, seafood, shop- tree-lined streets and spacious Beach Scenic Area (Laohu-

ping, and striking modernity. parks. Southwest of Zhong- tan Jingqu), which sports an

Serving as a dazzling hub shan Square is Labor Park amusement park and an

from which major streets radi- (Laodong Gongyuan), with its aquarium. Several miles far-

ate, Zhongshan Square hallmark giant football at the ther west, the Fujiazhuang

(Zhongshan Guangchang) is center. It is known for hosting Scenic Area (Fujiazhuang

laid out with lawns and encir- the Locust Flower Festival Jingqu) is also rather boister-

cled by a ring of colonial each spring. Farther south- ous and crowded, and farther

buildings dating from the west is Dalian’s other main still is the Xinghai Beach

Russian and Japanese eras. square, Renmin Square. Scenic Area, housing the

At night, locals gather here to Formerly known as Stalin immensely popular Sun Asia

dance and listen to music, Square, it was until recently Ocean World. This aquarium

and to watch the occasional

cultural performances that are

held. The most interesting

buildings along the square’s

periphery are the Dalian

Hotel (Dalian Binguan) at No.

4 to the south, and the Bank

of China (Zhongguo Yinhang)

on the northern rim at No. 9.

Currently being redeveloped,

Dalian’s main shopping area

is Tianjin Jie, a pedestrianized

stretch of shops northwest of

Zhongshan Square. Beneath

Shengli Square to the west

is a huge underground Statue of a rowing team in midstroke, Xinghai Square

Impressive ice sculptures being made in preparation for the Harbin Ice Festival

LIAONING, JILIN, & HEILONGJIANG 445

has a 381-ft (116-m) long ENVIRONS: Lying 22 miles VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

underwater tunnel and (35 km) southwest of Dalian, 180 miles (300 km) S of Shenyang.
* 2,100,000. k Dalian Airport.
several tanks filled Lushun enjoys an excellent £ c Dalian Bus Station, CAAC

with sea-life that strategic position, its (buses to airport), Heishijiao Bus
Station. g from Yantai & Weihai.
attract children in harbor benefiting from the _ Locust Flower Festival (Spring).

droves. Just off the perennial ice-free waters. 1905, forfeiting it only at the
end of World War II. Among
coast, Xinghai Square Known as Port Arthur, the surviving Russian architec-
ture is the Railway Station,
was built to com- it was the chief naval built in 1898 as the terminus
of the South Manchuria Rail-
memorate the return base for the Chinese way (see pp434–5), and still
in use today. The Japanese-
of Hong Kong to Beiyang fleet from the Russian Prison, which incar-
cerated Russian, Japanese,
China in 1997. mid-19th century, and and Chinese prisoners, also
has a rather gory torture room
was seized by the and gallows. Tours take in the
compound and various pho-
Y Donghai Park Japanese during the tographs on display. North of
the bay and near the station,
Binhai Lu. # 8am–5pm Sino-Japanese War Baiyu Hill is topped with
rows of cannons and a tower,
daily. & Barber attending (1894–95). Returned to and offers views over town.
to a customer China soon after, the
} Bangchuidao Visitors must check with the
Public Security Bureau just off
Scenic Area port fell to the Russians Zhongshan Square for permis-
sion to visit, since Lushun is a
# daily. & in 1897, who developed the closed military zone.

q Sun Asia Ocean World base for their Pacific fleet, but

# 9am–5pm daily. & Japan wrested Lushun back in

A cruise liner docked near Xinghai Square P Japanese-Russian Prison

139 Xiangyong Jie. # daily. & 8

DALIAN CITY CENTER KEY

Bangchuidao Scenic Area 6 Sun Asia Ocean World 9 £ Train station
c Long distance bus station
Donghai Park 5 Tianjin Jie 2 g Ferry terminal
n Tourist information
Fujiazhuang Scenic Area 8 Tiger Beach Scenic Area 7

Labor Park 3 Zhongshan Square 1

Renmin Square 4 Dalian
Airport

Dalian Bay

0 km 2

g

RENMIN LUCHANG 0 miles 2
LUXUN LU
cDalian Bus S HUG ANG LU JIANG LU

Station £ 2 1

JIANZGHOLUNGSHAN LU
cCHANG CAAC NAN SHAN LU

Malan HU ANGHE LU 4n 3

ZHONNAN LU BI NHAI LU 5
JIEFANG LU

DONG BEILU
XI'AN LU
N 6 IN GBI N LU

ZHOcNGSH9AXNiaLnUghai HU Bangchuidao
Beach
Beach B INHAI NGC
Heishijiao LU 7
8
Bus Station YI Tiger Y
Beach
LU
YANWOLING
Fujiazhuang PARK

Beach

446 THE NORTHEAST

Living quarters at the Puppet Emperor’s Palace, Changchun

Changchun 6 with its period furnishings Japanese occupation. Open to
and old photographs, serves the public, the building is a
185 miles (300 km) NE of Shenyang. as an apt epitaph to the tragic government structure that
* 2,200,000. ~ £ c g to folly of Pu Yi’s life. The palace features a brass Otis elevator
Dalian, Shanghai & Tianjin. n Room lacks the majesty of the that once ferried Pu Yi aloft.
701, Guoji Dasha, Xi’an Da Lu, (0431) Forbidden City, and instead is
892 8055. suggestive of the sanctuary of In the northeast corner of
an exiled monarch. Recent People’s Square on the main
THE SPRAWLING modern renovations have, however, street of Renmin Dajie stands
capital of Jilin province is restored much of its former Banruo Temple, an active
cheerfully known as “Eternal grandeur. It is now a fascinat- Buddhist temple dating to
Spring” despite its brutal ing museum of artifacts relat- 1921. Inside the main hall is a
winter. The city was badly ing to the 13 powerless years statue of Sakyamuni with
damaged at the end of World that Pu Yi spent here. Scenes attendant arhat (see pp30–31).
War II, which ended its from Bertolucci’s 1987 epic Changchun is also famous for
ignominious phase as the film The Last Emperor were its cinematic output and the
capital of the Japanese-con- filmed here. Other period city’s film studio can be visited,
trolled state of Manchukuo, buildings include the Manchu- although it is only really of
when it was known as Hsin- kuo State Council Building on interest to specialist film buffs.
Ching. Industrialized after the Xinmin Dajie in the southeast
war, Changchun today has of town, a further relic of the P Puppet Emperor’s Palace
emerged as an attractive,
green city in China’s north- 5 Guangfu Lu. # daily. &
eastern “rustbelt,” famed for
its car production. THE LAST EMPEROR

Changchun’s only major Aisin Gioro or Pu Yi ascended the Qing throne at the age
sight of interest is the Puppet of three in 1908 after the death of his uncle, the Guangxu
Emperor’s Palace, the emperor. His brief reign as the Xuantong emperor was
residence of the “Last Emperor,” brought to an end on February 12, 1912, when he abdicated
Pu Yi, whom the Japanese the throne in the Forbidden City to make way for the new
installed as the Emperor of Republican government. The powerless Pu Yi continued to
Manchukuo. Located in the live in the palace until 1924, before furtively escaping to live
city’s northeast, the palace, in the Japanese concession in
Tianjin. He was later installed
Official buildings at the Puppet as the Japanese puppet emperor
Emperor’s Palace, Changchun of Manchukuo, residing in his
palace in Changchun. At the
end of World War II, he was
arrested and handed over to
the Chinese Communists, who
imprisoned him in 1950. In
1959, Mao granted him amnesty.
Pu Yi never returned to the
Forbidden City, and he died of
cancer, childless and anony-
mous, in 1967, after working for
seven years as a gardener at Pu Yi (1905–1967), China’s
the Beijing Botanical Gardens. “Last Emperor”