China

BEIJING 97

The golden finial VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
is 125 ft (38 m) high
and prone to lightning Tian Tan Dong Lu (East Gate),
strikes. Chongwen. Map 4 E4. § (010)
6702 2617. Q Qian Men.
@ 34, 6, 35. Park # 8am–5pm
daily. Temple Buildings #
8:30am–5pm. & 6 9 =

. Caisson Ceiling
The splendid circular caisson
ceiling has a gilded dragon
and phoenix at its center. The
hall is entirely built of wood
without using a single nail.

Blue represents
the color of
heaven.

. Dragon Well Pillars
The roofs of the hall are supported
on 28 highly-decorated pillars. At
the center, the four huge columns,
known as Dragon Well pillars,
represent the seasons, while the
other 24 smaller pillars symbolize
the months in a year plus the two-
hour time periods in a day.

Symbolic Tablets in memory QINIAN DIAN
offerings of his ancestors
were worshipped Originally built in 1420,
Marble Platform by the emperor. the Qinian Dian, or Hall of
Three tiers of marble form a Prayer for Good Harvests,
is often incorrectly called
circle 300 ft (90 m) in the Temple of Heaven.
diameter and 20 ft (6 m) high. There is in fact no single
The balusters on the upper tier temple building as such
at Tian Tan, a more literal
are decorated with dragon translation of which is
carvings to signify the imperial Altar of Heaven – referring
to the whole complex.
nature of the structure.

98 B E I J I N G & T H E N O R T H

Cow Street
Mosque a

88 Niu Jie, Xuanwu. Map 3 A3.
q Xuanwu Men. § (010) 6353
2564. # daily. Avoid Fri (holy day)
unless practicing. &

BEIJING’S OLDEST and largest Buddhist statuary in the main hall, Fayuan Temple
mosque dates back to the
10th century. It is located in Fayuan Temple s the Hall of the Heavenly
the city’s Hui district, near Kings (Tianwang Dian) is
numerous Muslim restaurants 7 Fayuan Si Qian Jie, Xuanwu. Map guarded by a pair of bronze
and shops. The Hui, a Chinese 3 A3. q Xuanwu Men. § (010) lions, and has statues of
Muslim minority group mainly 6353 4171. # 8am–5pm daily. & Milefo (the Laughing Buddha)
from Ningxia province, are and his attendant Heavenly
now scattered throughout ASHORT WALK EAST from Cow Kings. Ancient stelae stand
China and number around Street Mosque, the Fayuan in front of the main hall,
200,000 in Beijing. The men Temple dates to AD 696 and where a gilded statue of
are easily identified by their is probably the oldest temple Sakyamuni (the Historical
beards and characteristic in Beijing. It was consecrated Buddha) is flanked by
white hats. by the Tang Taizong emperor bodhisattvas and luohan
(r.626–49), to commemorate – those freed from the cycle
The Cow Street Mosque the soldiers who perished in of rebirth.
is an attractive edifice, with an expedition against the
Islamic motifs and Arabic northern tribes. The original At the temple’s rear, the
verses decorating its halls Tang era buildings were Scripture Hall stores sutras,
and stelae. Its most prized destroyed by a succession while another hall contains a
possession is a 300-year-old, of natural disasters, and the 16-ft (5-m) Buddha statue.
hand-written copy of the current structures date from The grounds are busy with
Koran (Gulanjing). the Qing era. monks who attend the
temple’s Buddhist College.
Astronomical observations The temple’s layout is
and lunar calculations were typical of Buddhist temples. White Clouds
made from the tower-like Near the gate, the incense Temple d
Wangyue Lou. The graves of burner (lu) is flanked by
two Yuan dynasty Arab the Drum and Bell Towers 6 Baiyuanguan Jie, Xibian Men Wai,
missionaries engraved with to the east and west. Beyond, Xuanwu. q Nanlishi Lu. § (010)
Arabic inscriptions can be 6340 4812. # daily. &
seen here. The courtyard is
lush with greenery, making it
an idyllic escape from Beijing’s
busy streets. Visitors are
advised to dress conservatively.
Non-Muslims are not allowed
to enter the prayer hall.

Resplendent interior of the Cow Street Mosque HOME TO THE China Daoist
Association, the White
Clouds Temple (Baiyun
Guan) was founded in AD 739
and is Beijing’s largest Daoist
shrine. Known as the Temple
of Heavenly Eternity, it was
one of the three ancestral
halls of the Quanzhen School
of Daoism, which focused on
right action and the benefits
of good karma. Built largely
of wood, the temple burnt to
the ground in 1166, and since
then has been repeatedly
destroyed and rebuilt. The
structures that survive date
largely from the Ming and
Qing dynasties. A triple-gated

BEIJING 99

Ming pailou (decorative
archway) stands at the
entrance. It is believed that
rubbing the carved monkey
on the main gate brings good
luck. The major halls are
arranged along the central axis,
with more halls on either
side. The Hall of the Tutelary
God has images of four
marshals who act as temple
guardians, while the Hall of
Ancient Disciplines is
dedicated to the Seven Perfect
Ones, disciples of Wang
Chongyang, the founder of the
Quanzhen School. The Hall of
Wealth is popular with pilgrims
who seek blessings from the
three spirits of wealth, while
the infirm patronize the Hall
of the King of Medicine.

The temple grounds are full
of Daoist monks with their
distinctive topknots. It is most
lively during the Chinese New
Year (see pp42–3), when a
temple fair (miaohui) is held.

Chinese Military
Buddhist monks, Miaoying Temple White Dagoba

History Museum f

and surface-to-air missiles. The Si Bai Ta) dates to 1271, when

top floor gallery chronicles Beijing was under Mongol

9 Fuxing Lu, Haidian. q Junshi with pride many of China’s rule. In addition to its conven-
Bowuguan. § (010) 6686 6244. military campaigns. tional Drum and Bell Towers,
# 8am–5:30pm daily. & Hall of Heavenly Kings, and
Miaoying Temple Main Halls, this Buddhist
temple has a remarkable

TOPPED BY A gilded emblem White Dagoba g collection of small Tibetan
of the People’s Liberation Buddhist statues in one of its

Army, the Chinese Military halls. Another hall has a col-

History Museum is devoted to lection of 18 bronze luohan.

weaponry and revolutionary Fucheng Men Nei Dajie, Xicheng. Map

heroism. It is close to Muxidi, 1 A4. q Fucheng Men. # daily. & h

Beijing Zoowhere the Liberation Army

killed scores of civilians in CELEBRATED FOR its distinctive
1989. Visitors are greeted by Tibetan-styled, 167-ft (51-

paintings of Mao, Marx, m) white dagoba (stupa or 137 Xizhi Men Wai Dajie, Haidian.

Lenin, and Stalin. The ground funerary mound) designed q Xizhi Men. § (010) 6831 4411.

floor exhibits defunct F-5 and by a Nepalese architect, the # 7:30am–6pm (till 5pm winter). &

F-7 jet fighter planes, tanks, Miaoying Temple (Miaoying

WEST OF THE Beijing
Exhibition Hall, Beijing
Zoo is a relic of a bygone

era, with outdated concrete

and glass cages. The Panda

Hall is one of its better

enclosures, and the bears

are at their liveliest in the

mornings. The real reason

for visiting is the huge

Aquarium, with coral reefs,

an Amazon rainforest, and a

very impressive shark pool.

Whales, dolphins, and an

array of aquatic mammals

F-5 Fighter Planes, Military Museum complete the collection.

100 BEIJING & THE NORTH

Summer Palace j

THE SPRAWLING GROUNDS of the Summer . Longevity Hill
Palace (Yihe Yuan) served the Qing The Tower of the Fragrance
Dynasty as an imperial retreat from of the Buddha dominates this
the stifling summer confines of the slope covered with impressive
Forbidden City. Despite existing as an religious buildings.
Bronze dragon imperial park in earlier dynasties, it was
not until the time of Emperor Qianlong,
who reigned from 1736 to 1795, that the Summer
Palace assumed its current layout. The palace is most
associated, however, with Cixi who had it rebuilt twice:
once following its destruction by French and English
troops in 1860, and again in 1902 after it was
plundered during the Boxer Rebellion.

Temple of the

Sea of Wisdom

Marble Boat
Cixi paid for this extravagant
folly with funds meant for the
modernization of the Imperial
Navy. The superstructure of the
boat is made of wood painted
white to look like marble.

Boat pier

1 Kunming PLAN OF GROUNDS The Bronze
Lake Pavilion, weighing
The grounds of the Summer 207 tons (188 tonnes),
West 3 Palace cover 716 acres (290 is a highly-detailed
Lake hectares), with Kunming replica of a timber-
2 4 Lake lying to the south of framed building.
South Longevity Hill. South Lake
Island is just off the east STAR SIGHTS
shore and a stroll around the
entire shoreline takes about . Longevity Hill
two hours.
. Garden of Virtue
Lake 1 Jade Belt Bridge and Harmony
2 West Causeway
3 South Lake Island . Long Corridor
4 Bronze ox

KEY 0 meters 800

Area illustrated 0 yards 800

BEIJING 101

EMPRESS DOWAGER CIXI VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Together with Tang-dynasty Empress Wu 6 miles (10 km) NW of Beijing.
Zetian (see p57), Cixi is remembered as § (010) 6288 1144. Q Xizhi
one of China’s most powerful women. Men then bus No. 32, or 808
Having borne the Xianfeng emperor’s son from zoo. 4 from Yuyuan Tan
as an imperial concubine, Cixi later Park, and Exhibition Center near
seized power as regent to both the zoo (not in winter). # 8:30am–
Tongzhi and and Guangxu emperors 5pm daily. & ^ - =
(her son and nephew respectively). Cixi
Empress Cixi, prevented Guangxu from implementing
1835–1908 state reforms and, in her alliance with
the Boxer Rebellion, paved the way for
the fall of the Qing Dynasty in 1911.

Suzhou Street . Garden of Virtue and Harmony
Back Lake This three-story building served

as a theater, where the court’s 348-
member opera troupe entertained
Cixi, who watched from the
surrounding gallery.

Hall of The Garden
Happiness of Harmonious
and Longevity
Pleasures was
Hall of Jade Cixi’s favorite
Ripples fishing spot.

East Palace
Gate (main

entrance)

. Long Corridor Hall of Benevolence
The beams along the length and Longevity
of this 2,388-ft (728-m)
walkway are decorated with The principal ceremonial
over 14,000 scenic paintings. hall, this single-eaved

building houses the throne
upon which Cixi sat.

102 BEIJING & THE NORTH

Exploring the Summer Palace Suzhou Street, a row of

LIKE THE IMPERIAL RESORT at Chengde (see pp122–5), commercial buildings where
the palace grounds are arranged as a microcosm of emperor Qianlong and his
concubines would shop that

nature, its hills (shan) and water (shui) creating a natural today houses snack and sou-
venir stalls. West of the Tower
composition further complemented by bridges, temples, of the Fragrance of the Buddha
walkways, and ceremonial halls. Even after repeated is the Precious Clouds
restoration, the Summer Palace tastefully harmonizes the Pavilion (Baoyun Ge), also
functional and fanciful, with administrative and residential called the Bronze Pavilion.
quarters leading to the pastoral vistas of the grounds, as Dating from the 18th century,
well as numerous peaceful temples and shrines. the building is one of a handful

that survived the destruction

wrought by foreign troops.

The buildings at the north

end of the lake are more than

enough to fill a single day,

however the southern end of

the grounds can be blissfully

free of crowds. Boat trips to

South Lake Island depart

from the jetty near the Marble

Boat (north of which are

the imperial boathouses).

Alternatively, if time will allow,

hire a boat for a leisurely row

around Kunming Lake.

Seventeen-arch Bridge linking South Lake Island to the mainland Dragon King Temple

(Longwang Miao) on South

THE GROUNDS of the Summer lake. From here, the Long Lake Island is dedicated to
Palace are extensive, but Corridor (Chang Lang) the god of rivers, seas, and

the main buildings can all be follows the lakeside, rain. The island is connected

visited by those with a bit of interrupted along its to the eastern shore by the

energy and time. The main length by four pavil- elegant Seventeen-arch

entrance at the East Palace ions. At the corridor’s Bridge (Shiqi Kong Qiao).

Gate (Gong Dong Men) halfway point, a series A marble lion crowns each

leads to of religious buildings of the 544 balusters along

the official ascends the slopes of the bridge’s length, and a

and resi- Longevity Hill (Wanshou large bronze ox, dating back

dential Shan), a sequence marked to 1755, reposes on the east-

halls of at the lakeside by ern shore. On the opposite

the palace a fabulous decor- shore, steep-sloped Jade

complex. ative gate (pailou), Belt Bridge links the main-

Just inside beyond which stands land to the West Causeway

the main Bronze ox, believed to pacify Cloud Dispelling which slices through the lake

gate stands the waters and prevent floods Gate, with two to its southern point.

the Hall of bronze lions

Benevolence and Longevity sitting alongside it. The

(Renshou Dian). Note the first main hall, the Cloud

bronze statues in front of this Dispelling Hall (Paiyun

ceremonial hall, including the Dian) is a double-eaved

symbol of Confucian virtue, structure, above which

the mythical qilin, a hybrid, rises the prominent,

cloven-hoofed animal with octagonal Tower of

horns and scales. the Fragrance of the

By the lakeside to the west, Buddha (Foxiang Ge).

the Hall of Jade Ripples Behind the tower sits the

(Yulan Tang) is where Cixi rectangular brick and tile

incarcerated the Guangxu 18th-century Temple of

emperor after the abortive the Sea of Wisdom

1898 Reform Movement. (Huihai Si), its exterior

Cixi’s residence, the Hall of decorated with green and

Happiness and Longevity yellow tiles and glazed

(Leshou Tang) is to the west Buddhist effigies, many

of the Garden of Virtue and of which have been

Harmony (Dehe Yuan) and vandalized. From here

north of the jetty from where you can look down to the The unusual Bronze Pavilion, fashioned

Cixi would set sail across the Back Lake (Hou Hu) and entirely from metal

BEIJING 103

visitors can toss a coin into a
gap at the top of the bell for
luck. Hundreds of bells from
the Song, Yuan, Ming, and
Qing eras can be seen in a
separate hall on the west side.

Xiang Shan Park z

Wofosi Lu, Xiang Shan, Haidian district.
@ 333 from Summer Palace, 360
from Zoo. # 6am–7pm. &
Botanical Gardens # daily. &

Remnants of the Yuanming Yuan, once said to resemble Versailles THIS WOODED parkland
area, also known as
Fragrant Hills Park, is at its
Yuanming Yuan k Great Bell Temple l scenic best in the fall, when
the maples turn a flaming red.

Its main attractions are the

28 Qinghua Xi Lu, Haidian. 31a Beisanhuan Xi Lu, Haidian. @ 300, fine views from Incense
q Xizhi Men, then bus 375. 367. § (010) 6255 0819. # daily. & Burner Peak, accessible by
# 7am–6:30pm daily. & a chairlift, and the splendid
Biyun Temple, or Azure

HHE YUANMING YUAN (Garden OME TO A fascinating Cloud Temple, close to the
main gate. The temple is
collection of bells, the guarded by the menacing
Tof Perfect Brightness, some- 18th-century Dazhong Si
times called the Old Summer follows a typical Buddhist deities Heng and Ha in the

Palace), now sits isolated from plan, with the Heavenly Kings Mountain Gate Hall. A series

the main Summer Palace, but Hall, Main Hall, and the of halls leads to the

was a collection of princely Guanyin Bodhisattva Sun Yat Sen Memorial

gardens fused into the main Hall. Its highlight is the Hall, where his coffin

mass by the Qing Qianlong 46.5 ton (47,246 kg) was stored in 1925,

emperor in the mid-18th cen- bell – one of the before being taken

tury. He commissioned Jesuits world’s largest – that to Nanjing. At the

at his court to design and con- is housed in the rear temple’s rear is the

struct a set of European-style tower. The bell was distinctive 112-ft (34-m)

buildings in one corner, which cast between 1403 and high Diamond Throne

they likened to Versailles. 1424, and brought Pagoda. About a mile

Unfortunately, all the traditional here from Wanshou (2 km) east of Xiang

Chinese halls were burned Temple in the reign of Heng, Biyun Shan Park are the
down by British and French the Qianlong emperor. Temple deity Beijing Botanical

troops during the Second Buddhist sutras in Gardens, with pleasant

Opium War in 1860. Later the Chinese and Sanskrit embel- walks and some 3,000 plant

European-style buildings were lish its surface. During the species. The gardens’ Sleeping

pulled down, and much of the Ming and Qing dynasties, the Buddha Temple is renowned

remains carted away by the bell was struck 108 times to for its magnificent bronze

locals for building purposes. bring in the New Year, and statue of a reclining Buddha.

Chinese narrations of the could be heard for 25 miles China’s last emperor, Pu Yi

devastation criticize both the (40 km). The gallery above has (see p446), ended his days

marauding European troops a display on bell casting, and here as a gardener.

and the ineffectual Qing rulers.

Today, Yuanming Yuan is

a jumble of sad, yet graceful

fragments of stone and mar-

ble strewn in the Eternal

Spring Garden in the park’s

northeastern corner. A small

museum displays images and

models of the palace, depicting

its scale and magnificence. The

Palace Maze has been recre-

ated in concrete to the west of

the ruins. The rest of the park

is a pleasant expanse of lakes,

pavilions, gardens, and walks. The Great Bell Temple or Dazhong Si

104 BEIJING & THE NORTH

Ming Tombs: Chang Ling x

THE RESTING PLACE for 13 of the 16 Ming . Spirit Way
emperors, the Ming Tombs (Shisan Part of the 4-mile (7-km)
Ling) are China’s finest example of imperial approach to the tombs, the
tomb architecture. The site was originally Spirit Way is lined with 36
stone statues of officials,
selected because of its auspicious feng soldiers, animals, and
Mythical qilin shui alignment; a ridge of mountains to mythical beasts.
on Spirit Way the north cradles the tombs on three
sides, opening to the south and protecting the dead from
the evil spirits carried on the north wind. The resting
place of the Yongle emperor (1360–1424), the Chang
Ling is the most impressive tomb and the first to be built.
It has been beautifully restored, although the burial
chamber, where Yongle, his wife, and 16 concubines
are thought to be buried, has never been excavated.

. Hall of Eminent Favor
One of China’s most
impressive surviving Ming
buildings, this double-
eaved sacrificial hall is
erected on a three-
tiered terrace.

A large triple-gated The Stele Pavilion bears Gate of
entrance leads to the inscriptions dating from the Eminent Favor
first of the three Qing dynasty which revered
courtyards that often the Ming emperors.
front imperial tombs.

9 THE MING TOMBS

0 87 The 13 tombs are spread over 15 square miles
(40 sq km), so are best visited by taxi. Chang Ling,
q 6 Ding Ling, and Zhao Ling have been restored and
w 5 are very busy. Unrestored, the rest are open yet quiet.
1
4

23 1 Chang Ling (1424) 8 Mao Ling (1487)
2 Yong Ling (1566) 9 Tai Ling (1505)
e Spirit 3 De Ling (1627) 0 Kang Ling (1521)
e Way 4 Jing Ling (1435) q Ding Ling (1620)
e 5 Xian Ling (1425) w Zhao Ling (1572)
6 Qing Ling (1620) e Concubine cemeteries
e 7 Yu Ling (1449) r Si Ling (1644)

r

0 kilometers 4
0 miles
pailou 4
(archway)

BEIJING 105

. Ding Ling Treasures VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Artifacts from the Wanli emperor’s
tomb, such as this threaded-gold crown 30 miles (45 km) NW of Beijing.
decorated with two dragons, are on @ 845 from Xizhi Men (near
display in the main hall at Chang Ling. subway) to Zhengfa Daxue in
Changping, then taxi or bus 314 to
The Spirit Tower Da Gong Men. Many tours to the
marks the entrance to Great Wall (see pp106–8) stop
the burial chamber. here. § (010) 8976 1554. #
8am–5pm daily. & ^ interiors.

An earthern mound,
surrounded by a
circular rampart,
covers the stone
burial chamber.

Cedar Columns
Supporting the huge weight

of the roof, the colossal
43-foot (13-m) nanmu
(fragrant cedar) columns
are topped with elaborate
dougong bracket sets.

DING LING BURIAL CHAMBER

Ding Ling, the tomb of the longest reigning Ming emperor,
Wanli (1573–1620), is the only burial chamber of the 16
tombs to have been excavated and opened to the public.
During the 1950s, archeologists were stunned to find the
inner doors of the chamber still intact. Inside they found
the treasures of an emperor whose profligate rule began
the downfall of the Ming Dynasty.

Entrance Side chambers were
intended for others of
Statue of the Yongle Emperor
Yongle, the third Ming emperor, Wanli’s courts, but
moved the capital from Nanjing were never used.
to Beijing, where he then
oversaw the construction The central
of the Forbidden City. chamber contains
three marble thrones,
STAR FEATURES
one for each of
. Hall of Eminent the dead.
Favor
The coffin Outer
. Spirit Way chamber held the Chamber
red lacquer coffins of
. Ding Ling Treasures Wanli and his two wives. Exit (via
Spirit Tower)

106 BEIJING & THE NORTH

The Great Wall of China c

AsYMBOL OF CHINA’S historic detachment and sense Crumbling ruin
of vulnerability, the Great Wall snakes through the Most of the wall is still
countryside over deserts, hills, and plains for several unrestored and has
thousand miles. Originally a series of disparate earthen crumbled away leaving
ramparts built by individual states, the Great Wall was only the core remaining.
created only after the unification of China under Qin Shi
Huangdi (221–210 BC). Despite impressive battlements,
the wall ultimately proved ineffective; it was breached in
the 13th century by the Mongols and then, in the 17th
century, by the Manchu. Today, only select sections of
its crumbling remains have been fully restored.

. Panoramic views
Because the wall took
advantage of the natural
terrain for defensive purposes
following the highest points
and clinging to ridges, it now
offers superb panoramic views.

Ramparts enabled the
defending soldiers to fire
down on their attackers
with impunity.

Surface of stone RECONSTRUCTION OF . Watchtowers
slabs and bricks THE GREAT WALL A Ming addition, these
served as signal towers,
Tamped layer of This shows a section of the forts, living quarters and
earth and rubble wall as as built by the most storerooms for provisons.
prolific wall builders, the
Bigger rocks Ming dynasty (1368–1644).
and stones The section at Badaling,
built around 1505, is similar
Kiln-fired bricks, to this and was restored in
cemented with a the 1950s and 1980s.

mortar of lime
and glutinous rice

Large, locally
quarried rocks

STAR FEATURES

. Panoramic views
. Watchtowers

BEIJING 107

Towers were TIPS FOR VISITORS
spaced two arrow
shots apart to leave • The wall is exposed to the
no part unprotected. elements so be prepared for
all outcomes: wear layers of
Cannons clothing and a waterproof top,
Another Ming addition, but also bring some suncream.
cannons were used to defend • Bring plenty of water.
the wall and summon help. • The wall can be very steep
in places, so make sure you
Signal beacons have strong footwear with a
were used to warn good grip such as hiking boots
of attack by burning or tough waterproof runners.
dried wolf dung.
The carriageway
averages 8 m

(26 ft) high and 7
m (21 ft) wide.

Multi-function wall
The wall enabled speedy
communications via smoke, flares,
drums, and bells, as well as allowing
for the rapid transport of troops
throughout the country.

THE GREAT WALL OF CHINA (MING DYNASTY)

0 kilometers 400 Inner
0 miles
400 Yellow Rive Mongolia 23 4
1 ● ● Beijing
r 5

Datong

Qinghai ● ● Bo Hai
Lake Taiyuan Tianjin

● Lanzhou Places to visit Yellow
Sea
Most visitors travel to the wall from Beijing 1 Jiayu Guan
(see p108), but it is worth seeing the wall (see pp498–9) 3 Mutianyu &
anywhere along its length. Also impressive Huanghua Cheng
are the restored forts at Juyong Guan, Jiayu 2 Badaling &
Guan, and Shanhaiguan. Juyong Guan 4 Simatai
5 Shanhaiguan

(see p128)

108 BEIJING & THE NORTH

Exploring The Great Wall of China

ATRIP TO THE WALL is a must for any visitor to Beijing.
Most hotels will be able to organize this for you,
usually combined with a visit to the Ming Tombs (see
pp104–5). However, be sure to find out whether
there are any unwanted diversions planned to cloisonné
workshops, jade factories, or Chinese medicine clinics.
Small groups can have a more personalized visit, and
see the more remote parts of the wall, by hiring a taxi
for the day from Beijing and sharing the cost.

Stall selling tourist paraphernalia P Mutianyu Ruins at Huanghua Cheng

at the Great Wall, Badaling 56 miles (90 km) north of Beijing, clinging to the steep hillside

P Badaling Mutianyu Town, Huairou County. treacherous, so be careful.
c 6 from Xuanwu Men. # 7:30am– Due to its crumbling state,
44 miles (70 km) northwest of Beijing. 6pm daily. & a & chair lifts. access has been limited by
§ (010) 6912 2222. c 1 from Qian the authorities. Because of
Men. # 7:30am–5pm daily. & The appeal of Mutianyu lies ongoing reconstruction, it
a=- in its dramatic hilly setting may not always be possible
and less intrusive tourist to visit Huanghua Cheng.
Equipped with guardrails, industry. With a series of
cable car, pristine watchtowers, watchtowers along its P Simatai
and tourist facilities, the restored length, the wall you
restored Ming fortification at can see here dates from 1368 68 miles (110 km) northeast of
Badaling is the most popular and was built upon the Beijing, Miyun County. c 6 from
section of the Great Wall. The foundations of the wall built Xuanwu Men. # 8am–5pm daily.
reward for coming to Badaling during the Northern Qi & a (Apr–Nov).
is the breathtaking view of dynasty (AD 550–77).
the wall winding its way over The wall at Simatai has only
the hills. To fully appreciate P Huanghua Cheng been partially repaired,
this, get away from the affording a more genuine
crowds by walking as far as 37 miles (60 km) north of Beijing, impression of the original
you can along the wall either Huairou County. # daily. & a wall. The steep and hazardous
east or west of the entrance. parts of the wall are also a lot
The ticket includes admission Situated on the same stretch riskier to navigate. Most
to the Great Wall Museum. of wall as Mutianyu, Huanghua visitors clamber along the
The pass at Juyong Guan is is an exhilarating section of eastern section of wall at
on the way to Badaling and Ming wall that is far less Simatai, which leads to much
although recently restored, it developed than other parts of steeper sections of wall, and
is often quieter than Badaling. the wall. The great barrier is later, impassable ruins. Despite
With unscalable mountains on split into two here by a large the tourist trappings, the
either side it is easy to see reservoir; most travellers take views are superb here. There
why this spot was chosen for the right hand route on the is a four-hour trek from Simatai
defense. There are also some other side of the reservoir, as to Jingshanling that provides
authentic Buddhist carvings the left-hand section is more spectacular vistas, too.
on a stone platform, or “cloud difficult to reach. Devoid of
terrace,” in the middle of the guardrails, the crumbling
pass that date back to the masonry at Huanghua Cheng
Yuan dynasty (1279–1368). can be uneven and fairly

The restored section of the wall at Badaling, northwest of Beijing

BEIJING 109

Eastern Qing
Tombs v

77 miles (125 km) east of Beijing,

Zuahua County, Hebei Province.
# May–Oct: 8am–5:30pm daily;

Nov–Apr: 9am–4:30pm daily.
& 86

THE REMOTENESS of the Eastern Spirit Way to emperor Shunzhi’s tomb at the Eastern Qing Tombs
Qing Tombs east of Beijing
and over the border in Hebei scattered throughout the area, The devious Empress Cixi
province makes them far less only five are the burial places (see p101) is buried at Ding
popular than the Ming ones of Qing emperors: the tombs of Dong Ling to the west, in the
(see pp104–5), despite the the Shunzhi emperor (r.1644– right-hand tomb of a complex
fact that the setting is even 61), Kangxi (r.1661–1722), of twin tombs, the other being
more splendid. In fact, the Qianlong (r.1736–95), and the resting place of Ci’an,
Eastern Qing tombs make up Xianfeng (r.1851–61) are open, eldest wife of the Xianfeng
the largest and most complete while that of the Tongzhi emperor. Although both tombs
imperial cemetery in China, emperor (r.1862–74), at a were built in 1879, Cixi had
built on as grand a scale as distance from the main tomb her magnificent tomb lavishly
the Forbidden City itself (see grouping, is not. A 3-mile restored in 1895. The marble
pp86–9). Of the many tombs (5-km) Spirit Way, an approach carriageway up to the Hall of
lined with guardian figures, Eminent Favor notably locates
Incense burners in front of a spirit leads to Shunzhi’s tomb, Xiao the carving of the phoenix
tower at the Eastern Qing Tombs Ling, at the heart of the main (feng), symbol of the empress,
tomb cluster, while several of above the carving of the
the other tombs have their dragon (long), symbol of the
own smaller Spirit Ways. emperor. West of Ding Dong
Southwest of here lies Yuling, Ling, Ding Ling is partially
Qianlong’s tomb, with its open and approached via a set
incredible chamber adorned of stone animal statues. Look
with Buddhist carvings and for the smaller tombs of imp-
Tibetan and Sanskrit scriptures erial concubines, their roofs
(rare features at imperial and tiled in green (not the yellow
principally Confucian tombs). of emperors and empresses).

EMPEROR YONGZHENG

The son of the Kangxi emperor and a maidservant, Yongzheng in robes embroidered
Yongzheng (r.1723–35) chose not to be buried at the Eastern with symbols of his power
Qing Tombs, but perversely started a necropolis as far away
as possible in the Western Qing Tombs (Yixian County,
Hebei Province). Perhaps, racked with guilt, he could not face
burial alongside his father, whose will he had thwarted. For
after Kangxi’s death, Yongzheng seized the throne from his
brother (his father’s chosen successor), and declared himself
the legitimate heir, ruthlessly eliminating any other brothers
and uncles who may have been a threat to his rule. Despite
this shaky start, Yongzheng was an able ruler and a devout
Buddhist, punishing dishonesty among his officials and
seeking to improve the morals and education of his people.
Another possible reason for the switch was that he just wasn’t
satisfied with the Eastern tombs and chose an area with a
better natural setting. Whatever the reason, those keen on
Chinese tomb architecture will enjoy the peace of the Western
Qing Tombs. Nearby, moved in 1995 to a commercial
cemetery, are the remains of Pu Yi, the last emperor of China.

110 BEIJING & THE NORTH

occupation of Beijing and a
full-scale war. For those with
a keen interest in this period
of history, the incident is
marked by some rather
gruesome displays in
Wanping’s Memorial Hall.

Tanzhe Temple n

Mentougou district. 28 miles (45 km)
W of Beijing. Q to Pingguo Yuan

(1 hr), then bus 931 or tourist bus 7.
§ (010) 6086 2505.
# 8am–5pm daily. &

THIS ENORMOUS temple dates
back to the 3rd century
AD, when it was known as

Jiafu Si. It was later renamed

Tanzhe Temple, after the

adjacent mountain Tanzhe

Shan, which in turn got its

name from the nearby Dragon

Pool (Long Tan) and the

Brick stupas at Talin Si or Stupa Forest Temple surrounding cudrania (zhe)

Marco Polo The balustrades along the trees. It has a splendid
mountainside setting, and its

Bridge b length of the bridge are halls rise up the steep incline.
decorated by more than 400 The temple is especially

carved stone lions, each one famous for its ancient trees,

slightly different in appear- among which is a huge

Wanping town, Fengtai District. ance. Local legend has it that ginkgo known as the

10 miles (16 km) SW of city center. these fierce-looking statues Emperor’s Tree. A slightly

@ 339 from Beijing’s come alive during the night. smaller tree close by is called

Lianhuachi bus station; 309 Despite the widening and The Emperor’s Wife.

from WAZI (near Beijing extensive restoration work The most fascinating sight,

West Railway Station). done over the centuries, however, is the Stupa Forest

# 7am–7pm daily. & a surprising amount of Temple (Talin Si) near the

Memorial Hall 101 the bridge is original. parking lot, with its marvel-

Wanpingcheng Nei Jie. In addition to its lous collection of brick stupas

# 8am–5pm Tue–Sun. & antiquity, it is hidden among the foliage.

significant as the site Each stupa was constructed in

STRADDLING the of the disastrous memory of a renowned monk.
Yongding River in Marco Polo Bridge The towering edifices were

Wanping town, the Incident. This is built in a variety of designs,

876-ft (267-m) long where, on July 7, including the graceful miyan

marble bridge was Stone lion, Marco 1937, the Japanese ta or dense-eave stupa,

first built during the Polo Bridge Imperial Army and characterized by ascending

Jin dynasty in 1189 Nationalist Chinese layers of eaves. The earliest

but destroyed by a flood. The soldiers exchanged fire – an among them dates from the

current structure dates to event that led to the Japanese Jin dynasty (1115–1234).

1698. Known as Lugou Qiao

in Chinese, the bridge

acquired its English name

after Marco Polo described it

in his famous treatise The

Travels (see p243). At the

bridge’s eastern and western

ends are stelae inscribed by

the Qing emperors, Kangxi

and Qianlong. The poetic

observation by Qianlong on a

stele at the eastern end reads

“lugou xiaoyue,” meaning

“Moon at daybreak at Lugou.” The 11-arched Marco Polo Bridge known locally as Lugou Qiao

BEIJING 111

The prehistoric Peking Man Site Before the new road and River) is well worth the effort
at Zhoukoudian bridges were built, travelers as the crumbling hamlet
had to cross the Juma River survives as a living museum
Peking Man Site m ten times as they journeyed of Ming and Qing dynasty
through the gorge between village architecture. Situated
Zhoukoudian Village. 30 miles (48 km) Shidu and nearby Zhangfang on a steep mountainside, it is
SW of Beijing. @ 917 from Beijing’s village, hence the name Shidu a picturesque outpost of
Tianqiao bus station to Fangshan, then meaning “Ten Ferries” or “Ten courtyard houses (siheyuan)
bus 2 or taxi to site. Crossings.” Pleasant walking and rural Chinese buildings.
# 8:30am–4:30pm daily. & trails wind along the riverbank Because of the close-knit
between impressive gorges nature of the original village
UNEARTHED FROM A cave at and jagged limestone all the courtyards were
Zhoukoudian in the formations. Visitors can stop interconnected by small lanes.
1920s, the 40-odd fossilized en route to paddle in the The entry ticket allows access
human bones and primitive shallow river and picnic under to the entire village, all of
implements were identified as the towering peaks. The main which can be explored within
the prehistoric remains of sights are around Qingjiang a few hours. Look out for the
Peking Man (Homo erectus Gou and the lovely Gushan Maoist graffiti and slogans
Pekinensis), who lived here Zhai, marred somewhat by that survive on the boundary
over 500,000 years ago. It was bungee jumping and other walls; similar graffiti from the
thought that this exciting entertainment ventures. Cultural Revolution has been
discovery provided the much whitewashed in most other
sought-after missing link Chuandixia . Chinese towns.
between Neanderthals and
modern humans. Designated Near Zhaitang town. 56 miles (90 km) Chuandixia’s population
a UNESCO World Heritage NW of Beijing. Q to Pingguo Yuan consists of about 70 people
Site, the area is geared toward (1 hr), then bus 929 to Zhaitang spread over a handful of
specialists, although the small (3 hrs), then taxi. # daily. & families. Accommodations can
museum has an interesting be arranged for those wanting
display of tools, ornaments, DESPITE THE rather laborious to explore the surrounding
and bone fragments. Sadly, expedition required to get hills or simply experience the
Peking Man himself is not here, a trip to the tiny village rural hospitality. Alive to the
actually here and the site has of Chuandixia (Under the opportunities brought by
suffered neglect recently. tourism, quite a few of the old
homesteads provide basic
facilities at a reasonable price.

Shidu ,

Fangshan district. 62 miles (100 km)
SW of Beijing. £ daily from Beijing’s

Yongding Men station to Shidu.
§ (010) 6134 9241. &

SHIDU OFFERS A fabulous Traditional Ming and Qing dynasty houses, Chuandixia village
escape from the
commotion of urban Beijing
and a chance to enjoy some
stunning natural scenery.

112 BEIJING & THE NORTH

Shopping & Entertainment in Beijing Store (which is less popular
these days) has inexpensive
BEIJING’S SHOPPING scene has undergone souvenirs, carvings, and a
a dramatic change over recent years good bookshop. In a frenzy
and slick department stores co-exist of consumerism, giant new
malls have sprung up
with older retail outlets. Its vast array of everywhere (there are a lot
around Xidan subway station),
retail options range from shopping stocked with a wide range of
branded items and clothing.
malls and department stores to special- The huge Sun Dong’an
Plaza on Wangfujing Dajie
ist stores, boutiques, antique and silk sells just about everything.

markets, and street vendors. The main CARPETS & TEXTILES

Mao Memorabilia, shopping street is Wangfujing Dajie (see BEIJING’S MARKETS sell a
Liulichang variety of carpets (ditan)
p94), anchored by the impressive from Tibet, Gansu, and
Xinjiang, but visitors should
Oriental Plaza Mall. Regrettably, many of bargain hard on all purchases.
The Qian Men Carpet
the traditional shops no longer exist with the exception Company on Xingfu Dajie
has fine handmade carpets
of those on Dazhalan Jie (see p85). Beijing also has a from Xinjiang, Mongolia,
and Tibet. Other shops
lively entertainment scene, with a growing numberof worth visiting are Antique
Carpets, the carpet stores
pubs, bars, and clubs, and numerous venues for on Liulichang, the Liangma
Antique Market, and the
traditional Beijing Opera, theater, and music. stalls at Panjiayuan Market.

SHOPPING everyday items. Visitors could Near the Friendship Store,
spend a few hours browsing the cramped confines of Silk
VISITORS CAN BUY anything through Liulichang (see p85) Street Alley Market have been
from traditional handicrafts, for its lacquerware, ceramics, transformed into the multi-story
collectibles, carpets, and silks paintings, and crafts. Huayi New Silk Street Alley Market;
to electronic goods, furniture, Classical Furniture sells experienced shoppers say it
antiques, and designer classical antique, restored, lacks the character of the old
clothing in Beijing. Many of and reproduction furniture. place and visitors should still
the stores listed here arrange haggle for good prices. The
packaging and shipping as BOOKS popular Yuanlong Silk
part of their service. Corporation sells silk fabric
IT IS ADVISABLE TO take your and a large selection of ready-
ANTIQUES, CRAFTS & own reading material when made silk garments, and the
CURIOS traveling to China, as the Beijing Silk Store south of
choice of imported and Qian Men has good value
GENUINE ANTIQUES (gudong) English-language fiction in silk. For upscale clothes try
are hard to find. Objects Beijing is quite limited. But a Na-Li, where it is still fine to
dating between 1939 and 1795 fine selection of photographic, haggle. The Yaxiu Clothing
cannot officially be taken out cultural, and travel books on Market has four floors of
of the country without a China can be found. The clothes, fabric, and curios.
certificate, anything older may Foreign Languages
not be exported at all (see Bookshop is conveniently ENTERTAINMENT
pp598–9). The most interesting located, but its selection of
market for antiques and curios English-language titles is ENTERTAINMENT in Beijing is
is Panjiayuan Market in the small. The bookshop in the largely based on the
southeast of town. Open all Friendship Store stocks a performance arts, such as
week, for the best deals and range of books and magazines. Beijing Opera and traditional
pickings, visitors should aim Beijing’s largest bookshop theater. English-language
to get there at sunrise during (shudian), the Tushu Dasha, theater remains largely
weekends to rummage through has English-language books amateur but is increasingly
the Bodhisattva statues, on its third and fourth floors, popular, as are art exhibitions
ceramics, screens, calligraphy, but can get busy and noisy. and music concerts. The rock,
and variety of ornaments. The punk, and jazz live music
Beijing Curio City nearby Some bars (such as the scene is rapidly expanding.
also has a vast collection of Pass By Bar and The Book-
ceramics, furniture, jewelry, worm) have book swaps or Cinemas show a limited
and Tibetan art on several lending libraries. range of English-language
floors. The large Hong Qiao films, as there are only a
Market near the Temple of DEPARTMENT STORES &
Heaven (see pp96–7) is great SHOPPING MALLS
for collectibles, souvenirs, and
pearls, especially the section DESPITE FIERCE competition
on the third and fourth floors. from new specialized
The Friendship Store on outlets, huge department
Jianguo Men Wai Dajie also stores are still popular with
has an array of traditional the Chinese. Xidan Dajie is
craft objects, and useful known for its concentration
of stores. The Friendship

BEIJING 113

small number of foreign films similarly distinguished setting, the Universal Theater every
admitted each year. Many with daily performances at night at 7pm. Shows featuring
embassies and bars show 7:15pm. During the warmer opera and acrobatics take
movies (either in English or months, there are evening place every evening at the
with subtitles). Cherrylane shows in the marvellous Lao She Teahouse at 7:40pm;
(www.Cherrylanemovies.com. Mansion of Prince Gong there are sometimes afternoon
cn) has good movies. All (see p90) at 7:30pm. Visitors shows as well. The Tianqiao
European and Hollywood who are part of tour groups Happy Teahouse also stages
films are pirated on release, are usually taken to the Liyuan similar performances every
and appear in the markets as Theater in the Jianguo Hotel. evening at 6:30pm.
DVDs and VCDs of variable
quality. For entertainment TRADITIONAL THEATER PUBS, BARS & CLUBS
events, check the listings in
the English-language THE CITY’S numerous THE CAPITAL CITY’S expat bar
entertainment magazines teahouses are excellent scene has for years
circulating in the expat pubs venues for the enjoyment of a concentrated along Sanlitun
on Sanlitun Lu, as well as in variety of performances such Lu in Beijing’s Chaoyang
most hotels. That’s Beijing as traditional Chinese music, district – east of Dong Si Shi
has one of the best listings. storytelling, Chinese opera, Tiao subway station. For a
acrobatics, and martial arts. more laid-back experience,
BEIJING OPERA try bars around the shore
The extraordinary body- where Hou Hai and Qian Hai
TRADITIONAL performances bending feats of Chinese lakes meet, such as the stylish
of Beijing Opera (jingju) acrobats (zaji) can be seen at World of Suzie Wong, with
are staged in the splendid several places in the capital. its Ming Dynasty beds. One of
Zhengyici Theater, the sole Popular performances are the first, still one of the best,
surviving wooden theater in held nightly at the Chaoyang the No Name Bar near Hou
China that was formerly a Theater at 7:15pm, and the Hai is well worth a visit. For a
temple. Shows begin on Beijing Acrobat Troupe stages more upscale mood, try the
most nights at 7:30pm. The performances at 7pm at the bars at any of the city’s four-
Huguang Guildhall has a Wan Sheng Theater. and five-star hotels.
Performances are also held at

DIRECTORY DEPARTMENT Yaxiu Clothing Lao She Teahouse
STORES Market
ANTIQUES, 3 Qian Men Xi Dajie,
CRAFTS & CURIOS Friendship Store 58 Gongti Bei Lu, Xuanwu. Map 3 C2.
Chaoyang District. § (010) 6303 6830.
Beijing Curio City 17 Jianguo Men Wai
Dajie, Chaoyang District. Yuanlong Silk Tianqiao Happy
21 Dongsanhuan Nan Lu, Corporation Teahouse
W of Huawei Bridge, Sun Dong’an Plaza
Chaoyang District. 15 Yongding Men Dong 1 Bei Wei Lu, Xuanwu
138 Wangfujing Dajie. Jie. Map 4 D4. District. Map 3 C3.
Hong Qiao Market Map 2 D5 § (010) 6304 0617.
BEIJING OPERA
Hong Qiao Lu, Chaoyang CARPETS & Universal Theater
District. Map 4 E3. TEXTILES Huguang Guildhall
10 Dong Zhi Men Nan
Huayi Classical Antique Carpets 3 Hufangqiao Lu. Dajie. Map 2 F3.
Furniture Map 3 B3. § (010) 6416 9893.
4A6 Gongti Donglu, § (010) 6351 8284.
89 Xiaodian Dongwei Lu, Chaoyang District. Wan Sheng
Chaoyang District. Mansion of Theater
Beijing Silk Store Prince Gong
Panjiayuan Market 95 Tianqiao Market
5 Zhubaoshi, Qian Men 17 Qianhai Xi Jie. Street. Map 3 C3.
Panjiayuan Lu, Dajie. Map 3 C2. Map 1 B3. § (010) 6303 7449.
Chaoyang District. § (010) 6615 7671.
# 6am–3pm daily. Liangma Antique BARS & CLUBS
Market Zhengyici Theater
BOOKS No Name Bar
27 Liangmaqiao Lu, 220 Qian Men Xiheyan
Foreign Languages Chaoyang District. Dajie. Map 3 C2. Qianhai Dong Yan,
Bookshop § (010) 6303 3104. E. of the Yinding Bridge.
Na-Li Map 1 C3.
235 Wangfujing Dajie. TRADITIONAL
Map 2 D5. Sanlitun Beilu, THEATER World of Suzie
Chaoyang District. Wong
Tushu Dasha Chaoyang Theater
Qian Men Carpet 1A Nongzhanguan Lu,
17 Xi Chang’an Jie, Xi Company 36 Dongsanhuan Bei Lu. Chaoyang District.
Cheng District. Map 3 B1. § (010) 6507 2421.
F1, Building 3, 59 Xingfu
Dajie. Map 4 F3.

114 BEIJING STREET FINDER

BEIJING STREET FINDER

THE MAP REFERENCES given for all maps and shows what other
sights, hotels, restaurants, features are marked on them,
shopping, and entertain- including subway, train, and bus

ment venues described in this terminals, hospitals, and tourist

chapter refer to the following information centers. Beijing has

two maps. The page grid extended a long way beyond the

superimposed on the schematic main city center and the Greater

map below shows which parts Beijing map on page 80 gives

of Beijing’s city center are an idea of the area to the north,

covered in this Street Finder. Cycling, a good west, and south of central
way to get around
An index of the street names Beijing. Getting used to the

marked on the maps follows directional system of road

on the opposite page. The key, set naming (see opposite) is vital to

out below, indicates the scales of the getting around easily in cities.

12

Haidian

Xi Dong Cheng
Cheng 4

3

Chongwen

Xuanwu

KEY TO STREET FINDER n Tourist information SCALE OF MAP ABOVE
a Hospital
Major sight N Post office 0 km 2
Place of interest t Temple
Other important building 5 Church 0 miles 2
£ Train station U Mosque
c Long distance bus station SCALE OF MAPS 1–4
Q Subway station
@ City bus station 0 meters 500

0 yards 500

BEIJING STREET FINDER 115

Street Finder Index J Wulutong Jie 1B1
Wusi Dajie 2D4
IN STREET NAMES, the suffix “jie” meaning Jianguo Men Bei Dajie 4F1
street, or “lu” meaning road are often
interchangeable. Therefore, when asking Jianguo Men Nei Dajie 4E1 X
for directions or an address, note that
Tian Tan Jie may also be known as Tian continues 4F1 Xi’an Men Dajie 1A4
Tan Lu. Many streets are also called “dajie”
or avenue. Directionals such as “zhong” Jiaochangkou Hutong 3A2 continues 1B4
(middle), and the four cardinal points –
“dong” (east), “xi” (west), “bei” (north), Jiaodaokou Dong Dajie 2D3 Xianyukou Jie 3C2
and “nan” (south) – are often added to
street names. The other key word men- continues 2E3 Xiaxie Jie 3A2
tioned here is “hutong” (alleyway).
Jiaodaokou Nan Dajie 2D3 Xibahe Nan Lu 2F1

Jin Bao Jie 2E5 Xicaochang Jie 3A2

continues 2F5 continues 3B2

Jing Shan Qian Jie 1C4 Xi Chang’an Jie 3B1

continues 2D4 continues 3C1

Jingtu Hutong 2D2 Xidan Bei Dajie 1A5

Jinyuchi Zhong Jie 4D3 Xi Damochang Jie 3C2

L continues 4D2

A Laoqianggen Jie 3A2 Xi Huashi Dajie 4E2
Liuyin Jie 1B3
Dong Chang’an Jie 4D1 Longtan Lu 4F4 Xijiaomin Xiang 3B1
Luomashi Dajie 3B3
Andeli Bei Jie 1C1 continues 4E1 continues 3C1

Anding Men Dong Dajie 2E2 Dong Huashi Dajie 4F2 Ximi Hutong 4D2

Anding Men Xi Dajie 1C2 Dong Rongxian Hutong 3B1 Xinde Jie 1B1

continues 2D2 Dong Si Shi Tiao 2E3 M Xingfu Dajie 4F3

Anding Men Nei Dajie 2D2 continues 2F3 Maweimao Hutong 4E3 Xinjiekou Bei Dajie 1A2
2D4
Anding Men Wai Dajie 2D1 Dong Si Shi San Tiao 2E3 Meishuguan Houjie Xinjiekou Nan Dajie 1A3

B Dong Si Shi Si Tiao 2E3 Xinjiekouwai Dajie 1A1

Baizhifang Dong Jie Dong Si Bei Dajie 2E4 N Xinkang Jie 1A1
Baochan Hutong
Bei Chang Jie 3A4 Dong Si Nan Dajie 2E5 Nacaochang Jie 1A3 continues 1B1
Bei Chizi Dajie 1A3 Nanchang Jie 3C1
Bei Gangzi Jie 1C5 Dong Si Xi Dajie 2E4 Nan Chizi Dajie 4D1 Xinwenhua Jie 3A1
Bei Heyan Dajie 2D5 Nan Gangzi Jie 4F3
Beijing Zhan Dong Jie 4E3 Dong Xinglong Jie 4D2 Nanheng Dong Jie 3A3 Xi Rongxian Hutong 3A1
Beijing Zhan Jie 2D4 3B3
Beijing Zhan Xi Jie 4F1 continues 4E2 continues 3A3 continues 3B1
4F1 Nanheng Xi Jie 4D1
continues 4E1 Dong Zhi Men Bei Dajie 2F2 Nan Heyan Dajie 4D3 Xishiku Dajie 1B4
Bei Wei Lu 4E2 Nan Qiaowan Jie 4F2
Bei Xinhua Jie 3C3 Dong Zhi Men Bei Nan Xiaoshikou Jie 3B2 Xisi Bei Dajie 1A4
Bei Yangshikou Jie 3B1 Nan Xinhua Jie
Bingjiaoxie Jie 4E2 Xiao Jie 2F2 Xizhi Men Nei Dajie 1A3
3C2
continues 3C3 Dong Zhi Men Nan Dajie 2F3 Xizongbu Hutong 4E1

Dong Zhi Men Xuanwu Men Dong Dajie 3B2

Nan Xiao Jie 2F3 Xuanwu Men

Dong Zhi Men Nei Dajie 2E3 Dong Heyan Jie 3B2

continues 2F3 continues 3A2

Dong Zongbu Hutong 4F1 P Xuanwu Men Xi Dajie 3A2

Douban Hutong 2F4 Puhuangyu Lu 4E5 Xuanwu Men Nai Dajie 3A1

Dongdan Bei Dajie 4E1 Xueyuan Nan Lu 1A1

C F Q 1C2 Y
3C2
Caishikou Dajie 3A3 Fahua Si Jie 4E3 Qianmachang Hutong 4D2 Yong’an Lu 3C3
Qian Men Dajie 3C2
continues 5A3 Fayuan Si Qian Jie 3A3 Qian Men Dong Dajie 3C2 Yongding Men
Qian Men Xi Dajie 4D2
Chaoyang Men Bei Dajie 2F4 Fenfangliuli Jie 3B3 Qian Men Xiheyan Jie Dong Binhe Lu 4D5
Qingyun Hutong
Chaoyang Men Fucheng Men Nei Dajie 1A4 Yongding Men Dong Jie 4D4

Bei Xiao Jie 2F4 Fu Xue Hutong 2D3 Yongding Men Xi

Chaoyang Men Nan Dajie 2F5 continues 2E3 Binhe Lu 3C5

Chaoyang Men Fuxing Men Nei Dajie 3A1 R continues 3B5

Nan Xiao Jie 2F5 Fuyou Jie 3B1 Rufuli 3A4 Yongding Men Xi Jie 3C4

Chaoyang Men Nei Dajie 2E4 S continues 3B4

continues 2F4 G Shangxie Jie Yongding Men Nei Dajie 3C4

Chongwen Men Guang’an Men Nei Dajie 3A3 Shengou Hutong 3A2 Yongding Men Wai Dajie 3C5
4D2
Dong Dajie 4E2 Guangming Lu 4F3 Yonghe Gong Dajie 2E3

continues 4F2 Guangqu Men Nei Dajie 4E2 T continues 2E2

Chongwen Men Xi Dajie 4E2 continues 4F2 Taijichang Dajie You’an Men Dong
Taiping Jie
Chongwen Men Xi Gulou Dong Dajie 1C3 Taiping Qiao Dajie 4D1 Binhe Lu 3A5
3B4
Heyan 4D2 continues 1A5 continues 3B5
Taoranting Lu 1A4
Chongwen Men Nei continues 2D3 Tianqiao Nan Dajie 3B4
3C3
Dajie 4E1 Gulouwai Dajie 1C1 continues 3C4 Z
Tian Tan Dong Lu 4E4
Chongwen Men Wai Guowang Hutong 1C2 Tian Tan Lu 4D3 Zhangzi Zhong Lu 2D3
Tieshuxie Jie 3B2
Dajie 4E2 Guoxing Hutong 1C2 3B3 continues 2E3
continues 4E3
continues 4E3 Guozi Jian 2E2 Tiyuguan Lu 3A1 Zhaodengyu Lu 1A3
Tonglingge Lu
D H Zhengyi Lu 4D1

Haiyuncang Hutong Zhushikou Dong Dajie 4D2
Heiyaochang Jie
Dajiao Hutong 1A3 2F3 continues 4E2
continues 3B3
Daxi Hutong 4D2 Hepingli Dong Jie 3B4 Zhushikou Xi Dajie 3B3
Hepingli Xi Jie 2F1
Dazhalan Jie 3C2 2E1 continues 3C3
continues 2E2
Desheng Men Dong Dajie 1B2 Hepingli Zhong Jie 2E1 Zhuying Hutong 4E2
Hongxian Hutong 3B3
Desheng Men Xi Dajie 1A2 Hufang Lu 3B3 W Zuo’an Men Dong Jie 3A5

Desheng Men Nei Dajie 1B2 Wangfujing Dajie continues 3B5
Wenhuiyuan Lu
Di’an Men Dong Dajie 2D3 Wenjin Jie 2D5 Zuo’an Men Nei Dajie 4F4
1A1
Di’an Men Xi Dajie 1B3 1B4 Zuo’an Men Xi Binhe Lu 4E5

continues 1C3 continues 4F5

XUEYUAN NAN LU DAJING HUTONG DESHENG MEN WAI DAJIE WULUTONG JIE DAJIE
D E WAI XI HOU JIE
WENHUIYUAN LU XINKANG JIE JIE TYUAN Rending
XINDEXINJIEKOUWAI DAJIE HUTONG Hu

DESHENGLI ANDELI BEI JIE
XIJIE
HONGCI XIAN G RENDING HU ANDELI DONG JIE GULOUWAI
GONG YUAN ZHONG JIE

ANDELI

JIE ANDELI NAN JIE JIUGULOUWAI DAJIE QINGNIANHU
JIAOCHANGK O U NAN JIE

LIBAISI JIE LINJIA
HUTONG

ANDE LU ANDE LU

BINGJIAOKOU HUTONG

DESHENG MEN XI BI NHE LU

Arrow

Jishuitan Tower

DESHENG MEN XI DAJIEXIJIAO7CHTAIANOGXIAO X I S I BE I D A J I E XINJIEKOU NAN DAJIE XINJIEKOU BEI DAJIE XIHAI B EI YAN DESHENG MEN DONG DAJIE ANDING MEN
Gulou
Xi Hai Former BHAUBTUOKNOGU XITAO HUTONG Dajie ZH ON GTAO HUT ONG
Huifeng SHUICHE Residence
XINJIEKOU Temple HUTONG XIHAI DONG YA N
7 TIAO DESHENG MEN NEI DAJIE YA N of Song
DASHIQIAO HUTONG
N Qingling Q
JI UGU LOU DAJIE
UTONG BANTIQAIAOOTOU XIHAI NA ZHAOFU JIEXIAOSHIQIAO
XIJIAOCHANG HUTONG HUTONG
GULOU GUOWANG GUOXING
BEI CAOCHANG IA NHMU TAOCNHGA N G HUTONG HUTONG
HUTONG
XINJIEKOU 4 TIAO

H HU ET IOTNA G DONGXINKAI H XI WANGZUO
HUTONG OUHAI HUTONG
Hou Hai
DOUFUCHI HUTONG
YANGFANG HUTONG
XIZHANG H XINJIEKOU DONG JIE EJI
DA
LUO'ER HUTONG
BEI Guanghua

YAN Temple Drum Tower &

XIZHI MEN NEI DAJIE Bell Tower

DAHOUCANG HUTONG Z HHEUNTGOJNUGE BOQICANG DASHI H U HOUHAI NAN YAN GU L O U
HANGKONG HUTONG HUTO N G
DAXINKAI HUTONG FANGZHUANCHANG
NACAOCHANG JIE HUTONG SANBULAO HONGSHAN SONGSHU JIE LIUYIN HUTONG
ZHAODENGYU LU HUTONG HUTONG Mansion of MAO'E R
HUGUOSI JIE Prince Gong
LIU XIANG QIANGONGYONG MIANHUA HUTONG LIUHAI QIANH N
BEIWEI HUTONG HUTONG HUTONG
DONGGUANYING DI'AN MEN WAI DAJIE
JIE DONHGUBTUOYANQGLAO
HUTONG AI DONG YAN
Museum of YANNIAN BEI YAN
Mei Lanfang HUTONG QIANHAI
Qian Hai
DACHENG XIANG
YUYOU HUTONG DAJIAO HUTONG BAOCHAN DINGFU JIE JIEHUTONG I NAN YA
JINGUO H HUTONG XINGHUA LO N GTOU JING

UT ON G YUDE HUTONG JINGYONGLI QIANHA

PING'AN HEDAJIE DI'AN M EN XI DAJIE
FUGUO JIE QIAN C HUTONG
CUIHUAHENG JIE XI SI BEI BA TIAO T A IPINGCANG AIMIN 4 XIANG BEI HAI DI'AN MEN NAI
XI SI BEI QI TIAO HUTONG PARK DAJIE
U LIANZIKU
G TAIPING QIAO DAJIE XI SI BEI LIU TIAO Bei Hai JING SH A N D O NG JIE JI'ANSUOYOU XIANG HUTONG
DAY DAGUAIBANG HUTONG
HUT O N XIHUANGCHENGGEN BEI JIE

D ONGLANGXIA ZHONGMAOJIAWAN AIMIN JIE BEIHAIBEIJIA DAO
XISHIKU DAJIE
HUTONG CUIHUA JIE XI SI BEI WU TIAO HUANGHUAMEN
DHAUCTHOANYGE XI SI BEI SI TIAO JIE
XI SI BEI SAN TIAO
DAHONGLUOCHANG AIMIN 7 XIANG
JIE

JING SHAN HOU JIE

ANPING XIANG

XISI BEI ER TIAO

XISI BEI TOU TIAO White Dagoba DASHIZOU Children's D
Temple T ONG Palace
Miaoying Temple Guangji Xishiku Jade
White Dagoba Temple Church Island HU JING SHAN XI JIE JING SHAN PARK
(COAL HILL)
FUCHENG MEN NEI DAJIE

YANGROU HUTONG XI'AN MEN DAJIE Tuancheng

NENGREN HUTONG ZHUANTA HUTONG BANSAN G HUTONG XIXIN HUTONG GUANGMING HUTONG W E N (Round City) JING SHAN QIAN

HUTONG JIN JIE IMPERIAL
JINGSHEN G GARDENS
SAN A OZHALAN DAYUAN HUTONG
U TONG
JIE
DHBINGMA SI HUTONG XIDAN BEI DAJIE XIHUANGCHENGGEN NAN JIE BEI CHANG JIE

TAIPING QIAO DA JIE FENGSHENG HUTONG
YUQIAN HUTONG
HOUNIWA HUTO NG FENZI HUTONG HUZHU XIANG Forbidden City

SHIFANGXIAOBANBI HUTONG XIEJIE
HONGMIAO HUTONG
DONG Zhong Hai
PICAI H UTONG
LINGJING HUTONG FUYOU JIE
XI CHENG
BEIYIN HUTONG
DHAUMTUOCANNGG TAIPUSI JIE

HUANGSI DAJIE QINGNIANHU BEI JIE HEPINGLI XI JIE
LIUYIN
GONG YUAN ANDING MEN WA I DAJIE HEPINGLI BEI JIE

QINGNIAN HU HEPINGLI ZHONG JIE HEPINGLI DONG JIE JIAOLINJIADAO DONGTUCHENG XIBAHE NAN LU
GONG YUAN Temple of Earth

Qingnian Hu

QINGNIANHU XILIJIE XI JIE HEPINGLI NAN JIE HUTONG Bahe
MINWANG BE I
DI TAN LU
PARK MINWANG NAN HUTONG
I
E PIN G L DONG ZHI ME
H
BEIGUANTI N
Andingmenxibin HUTON G

XI DAJIE ANDING MEN DONG DAJIE

D O N G TA O Anding Men Yonghe Gong QINGLONG HUTONG BEI DAJIE
HUTONG N
WUDAOYING HUTONG Lama
YONGHE GONG DAJIE
BEI LUOGU XIANG Temple JINGGUAN HUTONG DONGZHI MEN BEI XIAO JIE
XIA O JHIUNTGOCNHGANG XIAOJU HUTONG
JINGTU CHENIANDIAN HUTONG Confucius ZHENXIAN HUTONGPAOJU HUTONG
HUTONG ANDING MEN NEIXIEJIA HUTONG Temple G
HUAFENG DAJIE DONGZHI MEN BEIZHONGJI
HUTONG FENSITING HUTONG GUOZI JIAN MIN'AN HUTONG
N
FANGJIA HUTONG HO UYONG KANG Dong Zhi Men
HUTONG
JIAODAOKOU BEITOU TIAO
BEIXINQIAO SAN TIAO NANGUAN
JIAODAOKOU DONG DAJIE GONG YUAN
CAOYUAN HUTONG Dong Zhi Men
TU'ER HUTONG TIAO XIYANGGUAN HUTONG Bus Terminal
XIANG'ER HUTONG
BEIXIQIAOTOU DONG SHOUPA
HUTONG
DONG DAJIE
DONG ZHI MEN NEI DAJIE
JU'ER HUTONG
HOEYUAN'ENSI HUTONG SHIQUE HUTONG DAJU HUT DONGZHIMEN NAN XIAO JIE DONG ZHONG JIE
NAN LUOGU XIANG NGO ZHONG ZHONG JIE
BEIXINCANG HUTONG
JIAODAOKOU DONG ZHI MEN
NAN DAJIESHAJING HUTONG TAIXING HU TON XIN TAICANG AN DAJIE

HUTONG BEIBINGMASI HUTONG G XIGUAN HUTONG DONG SI SHI SI TIAO HAIYUNCANG HUTONG BEIGONGJIANGYING HUTONG
YU'ER DONGMIANHUA HUTONGBEI HEYA N DAJIE FU XUE HUTONG DONG SI SHI SAN TIAO
BANCHANG HUTONG
HUTONG HUTONG BIANDAN
HUTONG
DONG SI SHI ER TIAO

FUXIANG CHAODOU HUTONG DONG SI SHI YI TIAO Dong Si
HUTONG Shi Tiao

DI'AN MEN ZHANGZI ZHONG LU DONG SI SHI TIAO
DONG DAJIE
BEIHE HUTONG NANJIANZI HUTONG XIEZUO HUTONG DONG SI BEI DAJIE DONG SI JIN TIAO XI ZHONG JIE
MEISHUGUAN WANGZHIMA HUTONG
DONG BANQIAO JIE HOUJIESHANLAO DONG SI BA TIAO CHAOYANG MEN
HUTONG BEI DAJIE
HUANGCHENGEN BEI JIE
WEIJIA HUTONG DONG SI QI TIAO CHAOYANG MEN BEI XIAO JIE B EI D OUYA HU T ONG NAN DOUYA HUTONG
SHI JINHUAYUAN HU TONG NANGONGJIANGYING DONGMENCANG HUTONG D O U B A N H U T O N G
DONG CHENG
HUTONG
DONG SI LIU TIAO

SONGZHUYUAN YUQUN HUTONG LIUSHUI NANMENCANG HUTONG
BEIXIANG QIANLIANG HUTONG XIANG

SANYANJING DONG SI WU TIAO
HUTONG

DIAN SH ATAN BEI JIE MEN DONG SI SI TIAO CANGN N HUTONGA
National Art
S H ATA N Museum of ChinaDONG DONG SI SAN TIAO
HOUJIE
Fuwangfu
Temple

JIE WUSI DAJIE DONG SI XI DAJIE Chaoyang Men
CUIHUA HUTONG
DAJIE CHAOYANG MEN NEI DAJIE
YINCHA HUTONG
JIE DUOFU XIANG CHAOYANG MEN NAN XIAO JIE BEI ZHUGAN HUTONG

DONGCHANG HUTONG QIANHCUHTAOONMGIA N QIA NGUAIBANG ZHUGAN HUTONG CHAOYANG MEN CHAOYANG MEN
HUTONG NAN ZHUGAN HUTONG NAN DAJIE
HUANGCHENGEN NAN WANGFUJING DAJIE BAOFANG HUTONG DONG SI NAN DAJIE
LISHI HUTONG XINXIAN HUTONG
Capital
FUQIANG HUTONG Theater DENGCAO HUTONG

BEI CHIZI St. Joseph's YA N L E HUTONG F A N G J I AY U A N XIAOPAIFANG HUTONG SANFENG
QIHELOU Church BENSI HUTONG HUTONG HUTONG
NAN XIANG NEIWUBU JIE
ZHIDE DENGSHIKOU XIJIE DENGSHIKOU DAJIE SHIJIA HUTONG DAFANJIA HUTONG XIUSHUIHE HUTONG
BEI XIANG DONG LUMICANG HUTONG CHAOWAITOU TIAO
SHAOJIU HUTONG BAISHU HUTONG GANMIAN HUTONG
DONGHUAMEN DAJIE XILA HUTONG XITANGZI HUTONG Zhihua BEI HE YAN
DONG'ANMEN GANYU HUTONG JIN BAO JIE Temple
Pudu TempleNAN CHIZI CHENGUANG JIE DAJIE HONGXING HUTONG
DAJIE JINYU HUTONG DONGTANGZI HUTONG LUMICHANGHOU HUTONG
XIAOYABAO HUTONG BEIZONGBU
Jixiang HUTONG
Theater MEIZHA HUTONG JIN BAO JIE
BEIPAIFANG
Z H A O TA NG Z I HUTONG
HUTONG

HTAUNTOGZNIG FUYOU JIE NAN CHANG JIE ZHONG SHAN
X I C H E N GPIKU HUTONG O Gong Yuan
TONGLINGGE LU DAZHI HUTONG ZHONGSHENG BEI'ANLI
HUTONG PARK OF THE
XUANWU MEN NAI DAJIE Nan Hai PEOPLE'S
HEN G 2 TIAO CULTURE
Cultural Palace BINGBUWA HUTONGMINFENG H
Tian'an Men
for Nationalities CAAC Tian'an Men Xi

FUXING MEN (buses to airport) Xidan Xinhua Men Tian'an Men
DAJIE Square
N EI XI CHANG'AN JIE
Capital Cinema
National
XI'ANFU HUTONG BEI XIN HUA JIEBeijing Theater

BEIX INPING HUTONG DALIUBUKOU JIE Concert Hall

XINWENHUA JIE XI RONGXIAN HUTONG DONG RONGXIAN Great Hall of Monument to the
NG XIJIULIANZI HUTONG Heroes of the People
HUTONG the People
YONGNING HU T
XIXINLLANZI HUTONG Mao Zedong

South XINBI JIE XIJIAOMIN XIANG Bank Mausoleum
Cathedral of China
Tour Bus
JIE Qian Men Station
WENJIA
Xuanwu Men Heping Men Bus Terminal Qian Men
Changchun Jie
XUANWU MEN DONG DAJI QIAN MEN XI DAJIE
XUANWU MEN Zhengyici Beijing
XI DAJIE
XUANWU M EN DO NG HEYAN J I E Opera Theater HEPING MEN WAI QIAN MEN XIHOUHEYAN
DONG JIE JIE
QIAN MEN XIHEYAN JIE
SHANGXIE JIE TIENIAO BUXIANGZI HUTONG
S AJNIEMIAO CHUKUYING HUTONG HAIBAI H UTON G HUTONG HSUHTEOJ IA PAIZI
NG HUTONG QIAN MEN DAJIE
NAN XINHUA JIE
HONGXIAN SANJING HUTONG ZHUBAOSHI JIE LIANGSHIDIAN JIE
HUTONG LANGFANGTOU
XIAXIE JIE YON G GUANG XI JIE YAN SHOU JIE TIAO
BEI LIU XIANG NAN LIU XIANG WEIRAN HUTONG YANGWEI
QIANQING CHANG LIULICHANG XI JIE HUTONG U XIE JIE MEISHI JIE XIANYU KOU
HUTONG LIULI XIANG JIE D A JI AN G
LIULICHANG DONG JIE GM EIZ H
CHUNSHUSHANGTOU B I NG J I A O X I E
TIAO YA N
SHANJIANKOU
LAOQIANGGEN JIE JIAHOUTCOHNAGNGK OU JI E DAZHALAN JIE
E
XICAOCHANG JIE EYSIHN GUTXAIOEX IE SHAAN XIXIANG SHITOU HUTONG Beijing
JI Z O NJ IGES H U X I E Natural
TIEMEN HUTONG History
DINGJU HUTONG JIADAOJU BEIBANJIE HUTO NG MIA7NTHIUAAOXIA T I SHIJING HUTONG Museum
HUTONG PEIYING HUTONG

BAISHUN
Z H U S H I K O U X I D A J I EHU TONG
GUANG'AN MEN NEI DAJIE L U OMAS HI BHAUNTZOHNAGNG P U CHEN S H I HUTONG XICAOSHI JIE
DAJIEB E I D A J I
MADAO HUTONG CU ZHA NG HU TO NG LAZHU QIAN'ER HUTONG WANMING LU YA O ' E R
XIANG HUTONG HUTONG

HUTONG PEIYU XIZHUAN HUTONG LANMAN HUTONG BAO'ANSI JIE FENFANGLIULI JIE Beijing HUFANG LU XIANGCHANG LU LIUXUE LU ZHHUATOOZNHGUIZI
HUTONG NANBAN JIE HUTONG FUZHOUGUANQIAN JIEWorkers

SHURU DAJIE YINGXIN JIE Club CHUZIYING
HUTONG MISHI HUTONG JIAJIA HUTONG HUTONG

Cow St

Mosque Liyuan YONG'AN LU
Theater
HSUHTAOLANNG JIAOZI Fayuan XIJING LU
Temple FUCHANGJIETOU TIAO

FAYUAN SI QIAN JIE Friendship
Hospital
FUCHANG JIE NAN DAJIE TIANQIAO YONGDING MEN NEI
NANHENG XI JIE NANHENG DON G JIE

PEN'ER HUTONG RA NANHUA XI JIE BEI WEI LU XINNONG JIE XIANNONGTAN JIE
HEIYAOCHAN G JIE DONG JIE
CAISHIKOU Tianqiao Bus
Terminal

Tianqiao
WU TIAOTheater

NANHUA TAIPING JIE DONGJING LU NAN WEI LU

WANSHOU RUFULI TAO TIAN TAN XI HUTONG
PARK
LONGHZUHTUOANHGUAI North NTING LU
BAIZHIFANG DONG JIE Gate
Peking Opera
Theater

Waterside Xiannong Tan DAJIE
Pavilion
LIREN JIE East
Central Academy of LIREN DON G JIE Gate
BANBUQIAO HUTONG
Traditional Opera West Taoranting
Hu
Gate

XUANWU TAORANTING Xiannong Tan
GONG YUAN Stadium

ZUO'AN MEN DONG JIE LU YONGDING MEN XI JIE
YOU'AN MEN DONG BINHE YONGDING MEN XI BINHE LU

CAISHIKOU DAJIE Yongding Men YONGDING MEN WAI
Bus Terminal DAJIE

Beijing South
Train Station

NAN CHIZI DAJIE NAN HEYAN DAJIEDATIANSHUIJING Central Fine DONGDAN WAIJIAOBU JIE CHAOYANG MEN DAYANGYIBIN HUTONG JIANBGEUI ODAMJIEEN
HUTONG Arts Institute BEI DAJIE XIZONGBU HUTONG DONG ZONGBU HUTONG
HUALONG JIE XINKAILU HUTONG
NAN XIAO JIE FUJIAN HUTONG
DONGDAN Beijing Union CHUNYU HUTONG GONG YUAN XI JIE
3 TIAO
Medical Hospital

Tian'an Men Children's Cinema and BEIJIGETOU Jianguo Men

Dong XIAGONGFU Youth Arts Center XIFENGLOU HUTONG TIAO
CHANGPUHEYAN JIE Dongdan
Wangfujing

DONG CHANG'AN JIE CHONGWEN MEN JIANGUO MEN NEI DAJIE
NEI DAJIE
Ministry of XI BIAOBEI HUTONG BEIJING ZHAN JIE DONG BIAO BEI HUTONG
the Police
TAIJICHANG DAJIE XIANYU XIANG
China ZHENGYI LU Government TAIJICHANGTOU TIAO DAHUA LU Ancient
National Buildings NANBABAO HUTONG Observatory
Museum Beijing
Hospital SUZHOU HUTONG

BEIJING ZHAN DONG JIE

DONGDAN XI JIE Beijing Zhan

Supreme PARK ZHAN Beijing IKUIJ ACHANG
People's Court B EIJING Train Station HUTONG
China
Travel

QIAN MEN DONG DAJIE Service Southeast Corner
CHONGWEN
MEN Chongwen Men Watchtower

X I M I H UTO N G NANHGUUTAONNYGU AN XI DAJIE CHONGWEN MEN WAI CHONGWEN MEN DONG DAJIE
DAJIE XIANGCHUAN H
CHONGWEN MEN XI HEYAN CHONGWEN MEN BEI YANGSHIKOU JIE DONG HOUHEYAN
DONG HEYAN
XI DAMOCHANG JIE SHHUETNOGNOGU XI DAMOCHANG JIE D O N G D A M O C H A N G J I E

Beijing SHANG ER TIAO HUASHIZHONG ER TIAO HUASHIXIA ER TIAO
Underground
DAQIAO JINMAO HUTONG
City HUTONG

JIE XI XINGLONG JIE DONG XINGLONG JIE HUASHISHANG SI TIAO HUASHIZHONG SI TIAO HUASHIXIA SI TIAO
XI HUASHI DAJIE DONG HUASHI DAJIE
IUNTGOYNUGNBEHILUUTCOCANAOGOYHCUUAHNTAONNGGH C SAHOICT IHAAON G SHANGTANGZI HUTONG NAN XIAOSHIKOU JIE DON G HUASHI
SHOUPA HUTONG X I ATA N G Z I
E N G DONG CHASHI HUTONG ZHUBYHIENUIGHTEOCNAGO BEIJING ZHAN
HUTONG

Q WULAO HUTONG NAN LU XIE JIE
H HANHU HUTONG
UTONG
TAOWNAGN
UTH O HUTDOANXIG X UHE JI
IE U
ZHU S H I K O U D O N G D A J I EJ
N G H
S

JINYUCHI NAN QIAOWANJINXIUTOU TIAO GUANGQU MEN N EI DAJIE
ZHONG JIE JIE
MAWEIMAO HUTO NG
QINGHUA JIE CHONGWEN NAN MECAO
HUTONG
XIXIAOSHI JIE DONG XIAOSHI JIE CIQIKOU DAJIE
TIAN TAN L U XI YUANZI JIE DAJIE XI TANG JIE DONG TANG JIE DONGBI JIE
BEI GANGZI JIE XINGFU
CON GDIA N XI JIE XINGFU PEIXIN JIE
M XIANG

E

DNONGWDAADI FAHUASI JIE C H O N G W E N

T I A N T A N North Heavenly JIE NAN GANGZI JIE GUANGMING XI JIE
G O N G Y U A N Gate YINGFANGKUAN JIE
I

WHEUNTZOHNAGNG DAJIE FUGUANG

TIYUGUAN XI LU LU

72 Long
Corridor

TIYUGUAN LU GUANGMING LU

Hall of Prayer

Chinese for a Good Harvest DONGSIKUAIYU NAN JIE

West Rose Garden
Heavenly
East Heavenly
Gate
Tian Tan Gate TIAN TAN DONG LU LONG TAN LU
FUKANGLI
Hall of Long Tan Yuandushi
FUKANG NANLI Stadium Temple

Long Tan Long Tan
Hu Hu
Abstinence Chezhen Gate ZUO'AN MEN NEI DAJIE

Temple TIAN TAN DONG LI
of Heaven

Guangli Taiyuan BEIJING
Gate Gate AMUSEMENT PARK

YONGDING MEN South
Heavenly Gate

DONG JIE

YONGDING MEN DONG BINHE LU ZUO'AN MEN XI BINHE LU

PUHUANGYU LU



BEIJING & THE NORTH 121

HEBEI, TIANJIN & SHANXI

WITH ITS NORTHERN borders the hostile Mongol and
adjoining Inner Mongolia Turkic tribes. It is largely
and the western tip of a mountainous plateau,

erstwhile Manchuria, Hebei TIANJIN heavily industrialized,
divides into a long southern
HEBEI

with the Yellow

plateau and a mountainous SHANXI River (Huang He)

north, dotted with frag- flowing the length of its

ments of the Great Wall. western border. Leaving

Despite these barriers, the Beijing, most visitors first explore

Manchu army flowed through Chengde, with its imperial park

the Shanhaiguan Pass in 1644 to and temple architecture, or the

impose 250 years of foreign rule on celebrated Buddhist carvings at

the Chinese. Hebei borders Shanxi to Yungang, outside Datong. Other key

the west and envelops the wealthy sights include the magnificent

conurbations of Beijing and Tianjin – Hanging Temple clinging to the cliff

Hebei’s former capital and a repository face, the peaceful hills around Wutai

of foreign concession-era architecture. Shan, one of China’s four sacred Bud-

Shanxi (West of the Mountains), its dhist mountains and the charming

northern edge protected by the Great Ming and Qing architecture in the

Wall, wasonce a buffer zone against ancient walled town of Pingyao.

SIGHTS AT A GLANCE

Towns & Cities Areas of Natural Beauty Historic Sites
Beidaihe 2 Wutai Shan pp134–6 9 Qiao Jia Dayuan e

Datong 6 Yungang Caves pp132–3 7

Pingyao pp138–9 q

Shanhaiguan 3

Shijiazhuang 5 Weichang•
Taiyuan 0
Luan He
Tianjin 4 Anguli 207 Fengning
Nur 112 •
101
1

Temples & Monasteries • Zhangjiakou •

Luanping

Chengde pp122–5 1 • Qinglong
Hanging Temple 8
Shuanglin Si w Xuanhua •

109 7 Beijing 102 Qinhuangdao
6 •3
Yuxian 4k
• 2

208 He 8 • 112 •
n ggan 106
Shanyin • 108Laiyuan• Tangshan

Yellow Sa
er (Huang He)
• Daixian

9 Baoding• •Jinghai

Fen He Bo Hai
108
207
Riv Dingzhou •Cangzhou
• • Botou
•

Xinzhou ~
5 307

307 Lishi 307 0~ • •Hengshui KEY
•Yuci
• Yangquan

Fenyang • e Xingtai • • k International airport

wq Handan • Nangong 308
Jiexiu •
~ Domestic airport
209 • National highway
207
Qinxian• Weixian

309 106
• Q in He
Linfen • 309 Major road
Changzhi • Minor road
108 Railroad
Fen He Anyang

• Jincheng

0 km 100

Yun•cheng 0 miles Provincial border
100

Great Wall of China

Detail of the Imperial Dragon from the Jiulong Bi (Nine Dragon Screen), Datong

122 BEIJING & THE NORTH

Chengde 1

THE MOUNTAIN RESORT at Chengde (Bishu Tibetan Buddhist designs to make
Shanzhuang) was chosen by the Kangxi the Mongol allies feel at home
emperor in 1703 as a means of eluding the
Shuxiang Si Putuozongcheng
hot summers in the Forbidden City. Set in a Zhi Miao
river valley surrounded by mountains, the
park was strategically secure and allowed the
hardy Manchu to engage in hunting and
martial sports. The rural setting beyond the
Incense Great Wall reminded the Manchu rulers of
burner their homelands to the northeast. The eclectic
temple design of the surrounding Eight Outer Temples
put visiting Mongol and tribal chieftains at ease, so the
emperor could exploit their allegiances.

Northwest
Gate

. Putuozongcheng Zhi Miao BISHU
Built to resemble the Potala Palace in Lhasa, SHANZHUANG
the temple is the largest of the Eight Outer
Temples and has displays of thangkas (Tibetan West Gate
religious scrolls), Tibetan religious ornaments,
and two scaled-down sandalwood pagodas. CHENGDE
CITY
KEY The wall is
over 6 miles STAR SIGHTS
Town area (10 km) long
Road . Putuozongcheng
Zhi Miao
THE KANGXI EMPEROR
. Puning Si
Kangxi (1654–1722) was the second Qing emperor to reign . Bishu Shanzhuang
from Beijing, and held on to power for 61 years, the longest
reign in China’s history. His rule was, in comparison with
other emperors, frugal, practical, and conscientious. During
his reign the empire increased in size and wealth, and

generally enjoyed peace and
prosperity. He taxed the farmers
moderately and protected the
peasantry, building up a healthy
rural economy. An outstanding
militarist, he was also a patron of
the arts and sciences inviting Jesuit
scholars to the Chinese court. He
was followed by his fourth son,
Yongzheng (r.1723–35), and then
his grandson Qianlong (r.1736–95),
who idolized him so much that he
The Kangxi emperor resigned as emperor after sixty
pictured in his library years so as not to outdo him.

HEBEI, TIANJIN & SHANXI 123

Xumifushou Zhi Miao VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
This temple was built
to impress the visiting Chengde. 150 miles (250 km)
Panchen Lama who NE of Beijing. c £ @ 5, 7,
came to Chengde on 11, 15 from Chengde station. ª
the occasion of the Bishu Shanzhuang # 8:30am–
Qianlong emperor’s 6:30pm daily. & 6 Outer
birthday in 1780. Temples # daily (temples are
not all open at the same time). &

Puning Si

PUYOU SI

Xumitushou
Zhi Miao

. Puning Si
This temple combines Han Chinese
designs at the front with typical Tibetan
structures at the back. The highlight is
the majestic wooden statue of Guanyin
in the main hall (see pp124–5).

East Gate Anyuan
Miao
Yongyousi

Pagoda •

Puren Si Pule Si
The most impressive hall in Pule Si, the
0 meters 800 Temple of Universal Joy, is the yellow-tiled
twin conical-roofed hall which has strong
echoes of the Temple of Heaven in Beijing.

0 yards 800

Imperial
Palaces

Main Gate

GETTING AROUND . Bishu Shanzhuang
The southern section of the resort contains an array
It is possible to see the temples of simple but elegant palaces, cool shaded lakes and
and resort in a one-day minibus waterside pavilions, best viewed from a rowing boat.
tour. However, it is quite a
tough day. If time allows, try a
more leisurely walk around
the resort one day and hire a
taxi for the temples the next.

124 BEIJING & THE NORTH

Puning Si, Chengde Amitabha Buddha,
Guanyin’s teacher,
ONE OF THE MOST IMPRESSIVE outer temples is shown perched on
at the Imperial Summer Retreat at the top of her head.
Chengde, Puning Si (Puning Temple) was
built in 1755 by the Qianlong emperor to Viewing
commemorate the defeat of Mongol rebels. gallery
Incense The whole temple complex is a harmonious
burner synthesis of Chinese and Tibetan styles of
architecture. As part of a series of halls ascending the
slope of a mountain, the temple’s pinnacle is the
Mahayana Hall, in which towers one of the world’s
largest wooden statues, a vast 73-ft (22-m) high represe-
ntation of the Buddhist goddess of compassion, Guanyin.

Buddhist Symbols
Guanyin’s hands hold an
array of Buddhist symbolic
instruments – the pure
sound of the bell is said to
drive away evil spirits.

One of two
attendant
statues

The terrace buildings
form a three-dimensional
mandala (see p536), a
physical representation
of Buddhist cosmology.

Diyu houses a Monks
macabre display Puning Si is the only
of Buddhist working temple at
punishments. Chengde and the monks
can be seen praying in
. Guanyin the morning.
The huge effigy of Guanyin, also known
to Buddhists as Avalokitesvara, is
fashioned from five different types
of wood. Viewing galleries can be
climbed for views above ground level.

STAR FEATURES

. Guanyin

. Mayahana Hall

HEBEI, TIANJIN & SHANXI 125

Prayer Wheels VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
In Tibetan
Buddhism, sacred 5 miles (8 km) NE of Chengde,
mantras and prayers Hebei Province. @ 6. ª
are inserted into the # May–mid-Oct: 8am–5:30pm
decorated cylinders daily; mid-Oct–Apr: 8am–4:30pm
and activated by daily. 0 - =
spinning the wheel
clockwise.

Stupa (Chorten)
These monuments represent
Buddhas’s physical presence
and traditionally held sacred
relics or even the remains of

revered lamas.

Tibetan elements of
the buildings are the
bricks, the red and white
coloring, and the shape

of the windows.

Miaoyan Shi
was where the
emperor rested
when visiting.

Defensive
wall

Gatehouse . Mayahana Hall
Called Dacheng Ge in Chinese, the 122-ft (37-m)
PUNING SI high hall symbolizes the palace of Buddha on
Mount Sumeru, the center of the Buddhist world.
This illustration shows the
Tibetan-styled rear section
of the temple complex. This
part uses several terraces to
emphasize differences of
height and scale, whereas
the traditional Chinese part
of the complex consists of
a symmetrical series of
buildings on a single axis.





128 BEIJING & THE NORTH

the town is steeped in history

and is fortified by a Ming-era

wall. The charming area

within the walls is segmented

by hutong (historic alleys),

and serviced by a few hotels.

Shanhaiguan promotes its

Great Wall links. The First

Pass Under Heaven in the

east of town is a formidable

section of wall attached to a

huge gatehouse. The Manchus

overcame half-hearted

resistance here and headed for

Beijing to establish the Qing

dynasty. Visitors can climb up

on the ramparts, or access its

Beidaihe, one of northern China’s premier resorts tower, which displays Qing

Beidaihe 2 weapons and costumes. To
Guanyin Temple, dedicated the south is the Great Wall

to the Goddess of Compassion, Museum, worth visiting for its

is also located here. Beidaihe’s photographs and models of

186 miles (300 km) E of Beijing. ~ three beaches are dotted with the wall. Also on display are
statues of revolutionary tools that were used to build
to Qinhuangdao, 9 miles (15 km) NE workers. Middle Beach is the it, as well as the various
of Beidaihe, then express bus. £ c most popular, while West weapons that were used in its

DESPITE ITS immense Beach is quieter. Nearby, Tiger defense. Although there are

coastline, China has very Rocks is a popular spot to no English captions, the

few good quality beaches, watch the sunrise. East Beach, exhibits are well displayed.

except perhaps in Hainan 4 miles (6 km) northeast of A more stirring section of

Island in the south. Beidaihe, gets covered in the wall lies 2 miles (3 km)

Nevertheless, the coastal seaweed and shells at low tide. north of town at Jiao Shan,

town of Beidaihe, North where bracing climbs can be

China’s breezy seaside retreat, Shanhaiguan 3 made up its steep incline – or
is a pleasant escape from take a cable car. Lao Long

Beijing’s intolerable summer Tou (Old Dragon Head)

heat. Discovered in the 19th marks the end of the Great

century by British railway 218 miles (350 km) E of Beijing. ~ to Wall at the sea, 3 miles (4 km)

engineers, it soon became Qinhuangdao, 8 miles (13 km) SW of south of town. This part of the

popular with foreign nationals Shanhaiguan, then express bus. £ c wall has been reconstructed

from Tianjin, and villas, and, despite the tour buses, is

Asummer holiday homes, and SHORT HOP UP along the worth visiting. Visitors can
coast from Beidaihe, head west along the beach to
golf courses soon sprang up.
These were later taken over Shanhaiguan (The Pass explore Haishen Miao (Temple

by Chinese Communist Party Between the Mountain and of the Sea God).

cadres, and party leaders still the Sea) is where the Great

gather in Beidaihe for their Wall meets the sea. Although E Great Wall Museum

annual conference in August. less affluent than Beidaihe, # 8am–5pm daily. &

Sadly, many of the elegant

European-style villas are now

obscured by garish modern

seafront properties. During

summer (April–October),

Beidaihe’s beaches are packed

with hawkers and holiday-

makers. The best way to

spend one’s time is to sample

the array of seafood, or hire a

bike or tandem from one of

the outlets on Zhonghaitan Lu

for panoramic rides along the

coast. The hilly Lianfengshan

Park in the west of town is

covered in cypresses and

pines, and its hilltop Sea-

Viewing Pavilion provides a

good vantage point for views

of the coast. The restored The aptly named Lao Long Tou, shaped like a dragon’s head

The Temple of Universal Joy at Pule Si, Chengde

HEBEI, TIANJIN & SHANXI 129

Tianjin 4 Chinese Town, the Confucius

Temple was damaged during

the Cultural Revolution, and

50 miles (80 km) SE of Beijing. restored in 1993. About a mile
* 10,000,000. k £ Main Train (0.6 km) northeast across the
River Hai is the gaunt Wang
Station, North Train Station, West Hai Lou Cathedral (Wang
Train Station. c West Bus Station, Hail Lou Jiao Tang). Outside,
a plaque in Chinese relates
Northeast Bus Station, Bus Station No. the church’s turbulent history.

1, CAAC (buses to airport), South Bus It was destroyed by a mob
Station. g Tanggu Harbor. n 22 in 1870, and again during

Youyi Lu, (022) 2835 8309.

HEBEI’S FORMER capital, the 1900 Boxer Rebellion.
the municipality of The 1976 Tang Shan

Tianjin is China’s fourth earthquake damaged it Beautiful tiled wall at the Tianhou

largest city and a major for the third time, and Temple, Tianjin

seaport. The city’s it was repaired in include prints, silk paintings,
and artifacts. Close by, on
appeal lies in its 1983. North of the Jiefang Bei Lu, are many of
Tianjin’s colonial buildings
Western Concession cathedral, the Qing-era including the Astor Hotel,
whose guests included
architecture, a legacy Dabei Monastery is China’s last emperor, Pu Yi.
The excellent Antique Market
of its past as a foreign reached via a colorful on Shenyang Dao is a riveting
sprawl of collectibles. To the
trading post since market selling incense south, at the end of Binjiang
Dao, are the three green
1858. The former sticks and Buddhist domes of the French-built Xi
Kai Cathedral (Xi Kai Jiao
powers, led by Britain Deity, Street talismans. People pay Tang), open on Sundays.

and France, and Market their respects to Milefo t Dabei Monastery

followed by Japan, (the Laughing Buddha) 40 Tianwei Lu. # daily. &

Germany, Austro-Hungary, at the entrance and to Guanyin E Tianjin Fine Art Museum

Italy, and Russia, built in her own hall. To the west 12 Chengde Dao. # daily. &

schools, banks, and churches. is the Chinese-style mosque

In the north of town, the Qingzhen Si. This is not open

Ancient Culture Street is a to the public, but suitably

recreation of an ancient dressed visitors may ask to be

Chinese street. The Tianhou admitted. Some distance to the

Temple, dedicated to the southeast, the Tianjin Fine Art

Goddess of the Sea, is on the Museum is housed in a fine

street’s west side. To the French concession-era building

southwest, close to the Old in the heart of town. Exhibits

TIANJIN CITY West Bus HEBEI DAJIE North Train
CENTER Station Station

Ancient Culture Street 1 £ West Train 5

Station

Antique Market 9 NGSHAN LU

Confucius Temple 3 HO

Dabei Monastery 5 Z

Jiefang Bei Lu 8 6 4 SHIZILIN DAJIE
SHENGLI
Qingzhen Si Mosque 6 North-east c LU XINKAI LU

Tianhou Temple 2 XI MA LU Bus Station
BEI MA LU
Tianjin Fine Art
1

Museum 7 3 2
Wang Hai Lou Cathedral 4
XI MEN DONG MEN DONG MA LU International
NEI DAJIE NEI DAJIE Airport

Xi Kai Cathedral 0

NAN MA LU

0 km 1 NANKAI SAN MA LU NAN MEN WAI DAJIE Main Train £ N
Station
HAIHE ZHANG
0 mile 1 DO N G L U
Hai H e LU
Z JIEFANG BEI LU
IZHO N G
KEY Nc Bus Station EI
LIUW
£ Train station CAAC c 7No.1
c Long distance bus station HEPI DAGU LU
N Post office BINJIANG NG LU BEI TAIERZHUANG
DAO LU

9 ZHONGXIN JIANSHE 8 LU

South Bus GONGYUAN DAO
Station YINGKOU

LU

0 CAAC c

Tourist
Office

130 BEIJING & THE NORTH

Shijiazhuang 5 pagodas. The most renowned

is Dafo Si (Great Buddha

Temple), also known as

155 miles (250 km) SW of Beijing. Longxing Si. Its highlight is
* 8,600,000. ~ £ c the gargantuan 69-ft (21-m)
n 26 Donggang Lu, (0311) 582 7777. high bronze statue of
Guanyin (the Goddess of

THE CAPITAL OF HEBEI often Compassion) that stands in
suffers from unfair the Dabei Ge (Pavilion of

comparisons to both Beijing Great Mercy). Fashioned over

and the former provincial 1,000 years ago during the

capital, Tianjin. An industrial Song dynasty, the multi-

town dating from the modern armed statue is a riveting

railway age, Shijiazhuang has sight. Visitors can climb the

just a few sights including the gallery surrounding the statue

Hebei Provincial Museum for a closer look.

in the east of town, which West of Dafo Si, the 135 ft

displays interesting historical (41 m) Lingxiao Ta (Lingxing

relics such as a jade burial Pagoda) in Tianning Si is a

suit and an entire miniature restored Tang dynasty Qiao Lou at Cangyan Shan Si

terracotta army. To the west structure built from wood (Hanging Palace), Cangyang Shan

along Zhongshan Lu is the and brick, while Kaiyuan AD 605, the 167-ft (51-m) long
bridge satisfied several
Martyrs’ Memorial, a Si’s Tang-dynasty pago- requirements. The gentle bow
had to be level enough to
park which honors two da rises up just off convey imperial soldiers, yet
high enough to evade flood
doctors as Heroes of Yanzhao Dajie, waters, while relying on the
soft riverbanks for support.
the Revolution. Both Zhengding’s main The main arch (forming an arc
rather than a semicircle) is an
men, a Canadian street. Also situated effortless span of 28 stone
blocks. Supported on each
named Norman here is China’s sole end of the arch are two
smaller ones that are designed
Bethune and an surviving Tang to lighten the structure of the
bridge and allow the passage
Indian named dynasty Bell Tower of flood waters.

Dwarkanath (Zhong Lou). Dotted About 25 miles (40 km)
southwest of Shijiazhuang is a
Kotnis, served the around Zhengding surprising group of
monasteries and pagodas
Communist Party in are several temples tucked away among the
cypresses and sheer drops of
the early 20th and pagodas, includ- Cangyan Shan (Cangyan
Mountains). The Cangyan
century. ing the Confucian Shan Si also known as the
Hanging Palace, situated
Temple, Chengling Ta hundreds of steps up the
mountainside, dates from the
E Hebei Provincial (Chengling Pagoda) Sui dynasty. One hall, the
Qiao Lou, is spectacularly
Museum Kaiyuan Si’s Tang at Linji Si, and the slung between two cliffs, sus-
pended on a bridge over the
# 9am–4:30pm daily. & pagoda, Zhengding Hua Ta (Hua void. In the valleys and on
the slopes beyond, the trail
Pagoda) at Guanghui continues to explore the
dramatic landscape, passing
ENVIRONS: Most of the area’s Si, with its many intriguing several shrines.

main sights lie outside motifs that represent the Bud-

Shijiazhuang, and are easily dhas, elephants, and whales.

accessed by train, bus, or About 25 miles (40 km)

minibus. Lying a short train or southeast of Shijiazhuang, near

bus journey 9 miles (15 km) Zhaoxian town, the 1,400-year

north of town, the ancient old Zhaozhou Bridge

walled town of Zhengding is (Zhaozhou Qiao) is a graceful

known for its temples and feat of engineering. Built over

ten years by the mason Li

Chun and completed in

t Dafo Si

# 8am–5pm daily. &

P Zhaozhou Bridge

# daily. &

t Cangyan Shan

@ from Shijiazhuang. # daily. &

The graceful, stone Zhaozhou Bridge (Zhaozhou Qiao)

HEBEI, TIANJIN & SHANXI 131

Datong 6 Hanging Temple 8

165 miles (265 km) SW of Beijing. Gilded Buddhist statuary, 40 miles (65 km) SE of Datong.
* 2,700,000. £ c n CITS Mahavira Hall, Huayan Si, Datong c from Datong to Hunyuan, then
taxi. § (0352) 832 7417.
Datong, (0352) 510 2265. Dragon Screen), a 148-ft # 7am–6pm daily. & 8
(45-m) tiled spirit wall built
SITUATED NEAR THE southern to front the palace of the 13th ONE OF CHINA’S five sacred
flank of Inner Mongolia, son of Hongwu, the first Ming Daoist mountains, Heng
Datong has some splendid emperor. Less than a mile Shan is also known as Beiyue
sights worth exploring despite south of the crossroads on (Northern Peak). The
the coal mines and power Da Nan Jie is the Shanhua mountain range is a huge
stations that blight the Si. Erected during the Tang draw, its highest peak daring
surrounding landscape. era, it was subsequently climbers to scale its 6,600 ft
destroyed by fire and rebuilt (2,000 m) slopes – a tradition
The city was twice a in the 12th century. The main started by the first emperor,
dynastic capital, under the hall has five Buddhist statues, Qin Shi Huangdi, and kept
Northern Wei (AD 386–534), flanked by 24 divine generals. alive by later rulers. Its main
and the Liao (AD 907–1125), attraction, however, is the
both non-Chinese. The t Huayan Si spectacular Xuankong Si. Sup-
Northern Wei were fervent ported by slender wooden
Buddhists who carved and # 8am–5pm daily. & pillars, the temple seemingly
decorated the Yungang clings precariously to the
Caves nearby, while a signif- t Shanhua Si canyon’s walls. The Northern
icant relic of the Liao era Wei were the first to build
survives in the Huayan Si # 8:30am–5pm daily. @ 17. & here, but flood waters from
(Huayan Temple), located in the Heng River below regularly
an alley off Da Xi Jie, west of Yungang Caves 7 washed the buildings away.
the crossroads in the old town. The current edifice dates from
Completed by the Jin, the tem- See pp132 –3. the Qing dynasty. The temple’s
ple was much restored by 40-odd halls are hewn from
later dynasties. Raised up on natural caves and hollows in
a 13-ft (4-m) terrace, Huayan the rock, and are covered with
Si’s Great Treasure Hall wooden façades. They are
(Daxiong Bao Dian) is one of connected by walkways and
China’s largest Buddhist halls. bridges, and contain statues
Within the hall sit five gilded of Confucian, Buddhist, and
and enthroned Ming-era Daoist gods in stone, iron,
statues with attendants. The and bronze. The Sanjiao Dian
ceiling panels are decorated (Three Religions Hall) has
with Sanskrit letters, flowers, statues of Confucius, Buddha,
and dragons. A short walk and Laozi all seated together.
east of the crossroads on Da
Dong Jie is Jiulong Bi (Nine

The spectacular Hanging Temple (Xuankong Si), Heng Shan

132 BEIJING & THE NORTH

Yungang Caves 7

CARVED INTO SANDSTONE CLIFFS, the caves at . Exterior of Cave 6
Yungang are one of China’s most celebrated The wooden temple façade
accomplishments of Buddhist art. The has protected the beautifully
assembly of over 51,000 statues was started carved 50-ft (16-m) stone
by the Northern Wei dynasty in AD 453 to pagoda and the rest of the
atone for their persecution of Buddhism. sculptures within.
Lively arhat, Hellenistic, Persian, Central Asian, and Indian
Cave 18 influences are evident in the carvings, 6
testifying to the many influences entering China via the
Silk Road. When the capital moved from Datong to
Luoyang, in AD 494, work at Yungang all but stopped.
The statues, which range in size from the colossal to
the minute, are accompanied by English explanations.

Cave 16 Cave 13
Has finely featured Look for the small
carving especially figure supporting the
Buddha’s head. Buddha’s arm.

r

yt e wq 0 9 5
u 87
p oi
0 meters 100
Caves 16–20 0 yards
These are the oldest Caves 5 & 6
caves, built between
AD 453 and 462 by 100 Protected by
the monk Tan Hao. wooden frontage.

Detail of Cave 10
Built as a pair along
with Cave 9, this cave
is also divided into two
chambers. The interior
is densely decorated
with colorful bas reliefs
and statues in niches.

. Main Buddha, Musicians, Cave 12
Cave 20 This cave is decorated
The simplicity and with devotees of music and
balance of the tableau dance. The colorful walls
shows great artistic provide excellent evidence
merit. This cave would for the development and use
have been shielded by of musical instruments in
a wooden screen.
China at the time.

STAR SIGHTS . Seated Buddha, Cave 5
Marking a move from the
. Cave 20 more stylized earlier
. Cave 6 Buddhas, this one has
. Cave 5 a more corpulent and
naturalistic air. Protected
by the wooden façade, the
cave is in good condition.

HEBEI, TIANJIN & SHANXI 133

View of the central section of the Yungang Caves, Datong VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Interior, Cave 3 10 miles (16 km) W of Datong.
The Buddhas here have § (0352) 510 2265, CITS Datong.
rounded fleshy faces @ 4 then bus 3 or minibus from
and full lips, indicating opposite Datong train station or
that they are later CITS tour booked at train station.
creations, perhaps Sui # 8:30am–5:30pm daily. &
dynasty (AD 581–618).
Pagoda in Cave 2
Nearly square in
construction, this
cave has a carved
square pagoda linking
ceiling and floor. The
statues in the cave have

suffered a little
due to exposure
to the weather.

43

21

ARTISTIC INFLUENCES, CAVE 18 The bared shoulder The realistic faces
was replaced by the of these arhats
The colossal Buddha recalls the style of more Chinese robe show the personal
Gandhara (see p465). This Buddhist stronghold and girdle, (see Cave 5) input by the artists
and meeting point for many of the Silk Roads
sought to recreate the solemnity, dignity, and awe-
inspiring nature of Buddha. A more realistic style
can be seen in the five
smaller arhats on
each side and the
crown worn by
the Bodhisattva.

Statue has webbed
fingers one of the
marks of Buddha

The exterior of Cave 18 with
the colossal Buddha

134 BEIJING & THE NORTH

Wutai Shan 9

THE CHARMING monastic village of Taihuai, Luohou Si
nestling in the valley ringed by Wutai Inside this temple is a wooden
Shan’s five mountain peaks (or terraces), lotus flower decorated with eight
wooden petals that, when
has the largest concentration of temples rotated, open to reveal carved
as well as most of Wutai Shan’s hotels Buddhist figures.
and restaurants. Although Wutai Shan
was the site of over 300 temples during
the Qing dynasty, many were destroyed.
Tsongkhapa, the founder of the Buddhist
Yellow Hat Sect (which has the Dalai
Lama as its head), lived here and the
Incense mountains and its shrines are revered
burner by Lamaist Buddhists from Tibet and
Mongolia. Late spring and summer is the best time
to visit Wutai Shan, but also the most crowded.

. Tayuan Si Shu Wan Fo Dong
This temple is dominated by its Xiang Si Ming Qing Jie
distinctive Ming Dynasty and
Tibetan-styled Great White Dagoba Pu Hua Si
(Da bai Ta), which rises to a height
of 190 ft (50 m). The dagoba is
topped with a bronze cap with bells.

KEY

Built-up area
Road

STAR SIGHTS

. Tayuan Si

. Xian Tong Si

. Pusa Ding

Taihuai
West of the Qingshui River, the
village is thronging with pilgrims,
monks, and lamas. Visitors come
for its Buddhist temples and to shop

for religious talismans.

HEBEI, TIANJIN & SHANXI 135

. Xian Tong Si VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
The highlight of this, the
largest temple on Wutai 149 miles (240 km) N of Taiyuan.
Shan, is the Bronze Hall. @ from Datong or Taihuai.
Made entirely from £ from Beijing to Shahe then a
metal, it is decorated 1-hr bus ride. n CITS (0350)
with thousands of small 654 2122. # daily. & 8 by
Buddhist figures. privately organized minibuses,
taxis, or through CITS.

Shou Ning Si is a
little bit off the
beaten track in
the hills.

San Ta Si

. Pusa Ding
To reach Pusa Ding (Bodhisattva Summit),
a temple complex dating from the Ming
and Qing dynasties, there is a climb of
108 steps. A significant number – it is the
number of beads on a Buddhist rosary.

Guang Hua Si

Jin Jie Si Qi Fo Si
This temple is not visited as much as the
other more famous temples and as such
will be a quieter spot to take in the scenery.
It also has a white stone pagoda.

Shang Cai Dong sits THE CULT OF MANJUSRI
at the foot of the hills
in view of the cable Known as Wenshu in China, Manjusri is the
car to the north. Buddhist bodhisattva of Wisdom and the patron
deity of Wutai Shan. A disciple of Sakyamuni
0 meters 100
0 yards 100 (Buddha), Manjusri is often portrayed riding a
lion or holding a sword – for cleaving both
ignorance and suffering. Many of Wutai Shan’s

temples and halls are dedicated to Wenshu
and the deity’s association with the
mountain dates as far back as the first
century AD, when a visiting Indian monk
had a vision of the bodhisattva. Many
more sightings have been recorded since.

Manjusri or Wenshu, patron deity of Wutai Shan

136 BEIJING & THE NORTH

Exploring Wutai Shan attractively decorated and
designed Puji Pagoda, and
WUTAI SHAN WAS ORIGINALLY worshiped by followers the Guanyin Hall, among
of the Dao (Daoists) pursuing the secrets of other structures.
immortality, before attracting devotees of Buddha who
built many temples in his name. If visitors explore around Two more temples within
Taihuai they will find many temples scattered among easy reach of Taihuai include
the surrounding peaks and in more distant parts of the the Ming dynasty Bishan Si,
region. Most can be reached without much difficulty, which contains some
and the effort rewards the adventurous with the chance intriguing Buddhist sculptures,
to admire some of China's oldest buildings. and Zhenhai Si.

The thickly wooded slopes of Wutai Shan Considerably farther away
is the remote Nanchan Si,
t Wutai Shan’s Temples miles (3 km) south of Taihuai, about 44 miles (70 km) south
The first temples appeared on is one of the largest temples of Taihuai on the road to
Wutai Shan during the Eastern on Wutai Shan, most notable Taiyuan, which contains one
Han Dynasty. The five peaks for its 18 superbly crafted of China’s oldest surviving
of Wutai Shan are each arhat effigies. Three miles wooden halls (782 AD). The
topped with a temple, but (5 km) southwest of Taihuai, main hall has somehow
they are hard to reach and immediately above Nanshan avoided destruction – a
tend to attract only devout Si and part of the same miracle considering the many
pilgrims. Several temples can temple complex, is Youguo anti-Buddhist purges during
be visited either by hiking, by Si. Longquan Si (Dragon China’s history. Despite much
bus, or by minibus tour from Spring Temple), at the top of restoration work, the hall’s
Taihuai (including those 108 steps through a marvelous original Tang-dynasty design,
through CITS), although other marble archway, features the a rarity in Chinese temple hall
trips, such as to Nanchan Si, Hall of Heavenly Kings (with architecture, is preserved.
involve longer expeditions. an effigy of Milefo – the Foguang Si (Buddha’s Light
future Buddha, also known in Temple), about 25 miles (40
With lovely views over the this chubby incarnation as the km) south of Taihuai, also
valley, Nanshan Si (South Laughing Buddha), the features a Tang dynasty hall
Mountain Temple), around 2 dating to the 9th century. The
hall is especially notable for its
fine dougong (see p35) bracket
work, Tang and Song dynasty
wall paintings, and collection
of Ming dynasty arhats.

The elaborately carved archway
at Longquan Si

WUTAI SHAN TEMPLES

Northern Peak

Central Peak

Western Peak Eastern 0 kilometers 4
Jinge Si t Peak
Longquan Si 0 miles 2
t t Pailuo Ping

Zhenhai Si t KEY
t Nanshan Si
Built-up area
Southern Peak
t Temple

Peak

Path

HEBEI, TIANJIN & SHANXI 137

t Chongshan Si

# 8am–4:30pm daily. &

E Shanxi Provincial
Museum

Both sections # 9am–5pm
Tue–Sun. &

ENVIRONS: The bustling Jinci

Si, 15 miles (25 km) south-

west of town at the base of

Xuanwang Shan (Xuanwang

Mountain), dates to the

Northern Wei, although much

of its architecture is from the

Song period. The main

The Buddhist Chongshan Si, Taiyuan entrance leads straight to the

Taiyuan 0 Ming-era Mirror Terrace,
statues. The multi-armed and originally used as a theatrical

multi-eyed goddess stands stage. To the west, a canal

over 26 ft (8 m), her arms runs through the temple com-

254 miles (408 km) SW of Beijing. fanned out behind her. Also plex, crossed by a bridge that
* 1,900,000. ~ £ c n CITS 38 displayed in the temple are leads to a terrace supporting
sutras (Buddhist scriptures) four fierce iron statues. Lying
Pingyang Lu, (0351) 821 1109. and scrolls from the Song, beyond is the impressively

AHEAVILY INDUSTRIALIZED city, Yuan, and Ming eras. In the carved Hall of the Sacred
Taiyuan lies on the banks east of town, the Twin Pagoda Mother (Shengmu Dian), one
of the Fen River at the heart Temple (Shuangta Si) was of China’s oldest surviving

of Shanxi and makes a built on imperial instruction wooden buildings. Inside the

convenient base for trips to during the late Ming era. Also hall, a group of ceramic Song-

Pingyao (see p138) and Wutai known as Yongzuo Temple, era figures waits on a central

Shan (see pp134–6). its 13-story, 164-ft (50-m) figure of the Sacred Mother.

Between the years high pagodas have come About 25 miles (40 km)

471–221 BC Taiyuan to symbolize Taiyuan. The southwest of Taiyuan, the

was the capital of Shanxi Provincial Tianlong Shan Grottoes

the Zhao Kingdom, Museum has two sec- in the Tianlong Mountains

and became a tions – the main part constitute a small, but

flourishing center is housed in a Ming- significant, collection of

of Buddhism by the era Daoist temple Buddhist cave art. A total of

6th century AD. formerly called 21 caves dot the eastern

Because of its Chunyang Temple, and western sides of the

strategic position, northwest of Wuyi mountain, with worn and

bordering the Square. Within the damaged statues dating from

hostile nomadic Guardian deity, Jinci halls are relics, the Eastern Wei to the Tang

tribes to the north, Temple bronzes, and stat- dynasties. The best-preserved

the city underwent uary found in specimen is the large seated

heavy fortification during the Shanxi. The second section, in Buddha in Cave No. 9.

Tang dynasty. However, the Ming-era buildings of the

fearing its ambitions, the Song former Confucius Temple east t Jinci Si

ruler had it torched to the of Wuyi Square, houses relics # 8am–5pm daily. &

ground. The city was rebuilt a of Shanxi’s recent history, and T Tianlong Shan Grottoes

few years later. a collection of Buddhist sutras. # daily. &

The Buddhist monastery

Chongshan Si is hidden

down an alleyway northeast

of Wuyi (May 1) Square. A

temple has existed here since

the 7th century, although the

current building dates from

the 14th century. A fire

reduced much of the temple

to ashes in 1864, but consid-

erable rebuilding has taken

place. The Hall of Great

Compassion (Dabei Dian)

houses the striking Qianshou

Guanyin (Thousand-Armed

Goddess of Compassion), the

central figure in the trinity of The temple spring at Jinci Si, Taiyuan

138 BEIJING & THE NORTH

Pingyao q

SURROUNDED BY ONE of China’s few
intact Ming city walls, Pingyao’s
streets are lined with a wealth of

traditional Chinese buildings, including

Traditional courtyard houses, temples, and more . Rishenchang
red lantern than 3,000 historic shops. Pingyao’s This extensive museum of
treasure trove of Ming and Qing early banking is the site of

architecture is a legacy of the town’s affluent days as China’s first draft bank,

a banking center, which ceased when the Qing dynasty founded in 1824.

defaulted on loans and abdicated, leaving the banks West Gate, XI DAJIE
empty. The transferral of the country’s finances to Shanghai train station
and Hong Kong turned the city into a backwater, saving it
from development and, ultimately, preserving its character.

ZHENGFU JIE

County Yamen DAJIE
Pingyao’s justice department during the Ming
and Qing dynasties, these offices represented NAN
the secular world while the Daoist temples,
mirroring the County Yamen on the other side
of Nan Dajie, represented the spiritual realm.

STAR SIGHTS SOUTHEAST PINGYAO South Gate
(Ying Xun Men)
. City Walls The most notable part of
. Rishenchang the car-free town, the
. Bell Tower southeast corner and
center of Pingyao has the
largest concentration of
sights, museums, and
heritage architecture.

. City Walls Furniture Museum
The 39-ft (12-m) high, crenellated As well as this rickshaw, there
enclosure dating from 1370 is said are rooms in this typical
to resemble the outline of a tortoise. Qing dynasty compound that
Its head lies at the south gate, its are furnished as bedrooms,
four feet at the east and west gates, kitchens, and opium dens.
and its tail at the north gate.
0 meters 30
0 yards 30

HEBEI, TIANJIN & SHANXI 139

VISITORS’ CHECKLIST Shuanglin Si w

North Gate 62 miles (100 km) S of Taiyuan. 4 miles (6 km) SW of Pingyao. ª
(Gonji Men) * 40,000. £ c City Walls # 8:30am–6:30pm daily (until 5pm
access at West Gate. & in winter). &
DONG Rishenchang # daily. &
Furniture Museum # daily. & THIS TEMPLE has a long
County Yamen # daily. & history, dating back 1,500
years to the Northern Wei,
. Bell Tower which had its capital at Datong.
Rising above Nan Dajie, The current temple was built
the Bell Tower is a during the Ming and Qing
charming structure dynasties and contains over
decorated with 2,000 Buddhist statues, some
ornamented eaves. from the Song dynasty. The
effigies are arranged in ten
The Tianjixiang halls around three courtyards.
Museum has The expertly fashioned figures’
expressions vary from the
a small collection These three adjoining sublime through the comic to
of local artifacts. Daoist temples were the sinister. The lifelike luohan
in the second hall each reveal
last rebuilt in 1859, an individual persona and the
after burning down bodhisattvas in the third hall
during a temple fair. are well worth seeking out.

DAJIE

CHENGHUANGMIAO JIE Upper
East Gate

Classic courtyard at the extensive
Qiao Jia Dayuan

Qiao Jia Dayuan e

Watchtowers Kuixing Tower 12 miles (20 km) N of Pingyao. c
punctuate the length This extravagant and between Taiyuan and Pingyao can
of the wall every unusually designed eight- drop you off. ª from Pingyao.
164 ft (50 m). sided pavilion rises above the # 8am–5:30pm daily. &
battlements. It is named after
a star in the 28 constellations THIS MAGNIFICENT courtyard
of the Chinese zodiac. house was the setting for
director Zhang Yimou’s classic
1991 film Raise the Red
Lantern, starring Gong Li.
Dating from the 18th century,
the vast complex, comprising
313 rooms, is an exquisite
exercise in architectural
balance, its linked courtyards
pervaded by a sense of
equilibrium. Enclosed by a
33-ft (10-m) high, fortified wall,
the house was built by Qiao
Guifa, a merchant who made
his fortune in tofu and tea.



BEIJING & THE NORTH 141

SHANDONG & HENAN

THE SWATHE of territory compris- of the Mountains) from the
ing Shandong and Henan, west, after slicing Henan
irrigated by the final (South of the River) into

sweep of the Yellow two uneven chunks.

River (Huang He), sus- SHANDONG Henan’s historic
tained some of China’s
sights cluster around

earliest settled societies. HENAN the river in the province’s

The Shandong Chinese north, in an area that was the

are proud of their many cradle of Chinese civilization as

treasures, which include early as 6000 BC. The ancient

sages Confucius and Mencius, the capitals of Anyang, Kaifeng, and

Yellow River, and Tai Shan, China’s Luoyang are located here. The

holiest Daoist peak, and the former impressive Longmen Caves, with their

German colony of Qingdao, with its Buddhist carvings, lie outside

Bavarian cobbled streets and Luoyang. Other sights include the

Teutonic architecture. (Qingdao may sacred Daoist mountain of Song Shan,

be testament to humiliating 19th- home to the Shaolin Temple and its

century foreign ambitions, but it was band of warrior monks, and the

German expertise that helped brew Northern Song capital of Kaifeng,

China’s famous Tsingtao beer.) The with its fine Buddhist architecture

Yellow River enters Shandong (East and historic Judaic links.

SIGHTS AT A GLANCE

Towns & Cities Historic Sites Buddhist Sites

Anyang 9 Gongyi r Longmen Caves pp154–5 w

Ji’nan 1 Penglai 7

Kaifeng 8

Luoyang q Areas of Natural Beauty

Qingdao 4 Song Shan & Shaolin Temple e Bo Hai Bohai Haixia
Qufu 3 Tai Shan pp144–5 2
Weihai 6

Yantai 5 Longkou 7

Zhengzhou 0 Dezhou Dongying • 56
Tuhai ~
• He • • Laizhou
•
Binzhou Wan
Rushan
Laiyang
•

~1 Zibo 309

Linqing • •
Liaocheng•
Boshan• •Weifang k

Hebi• 9 2 206 4

ellow RiverJining • 3 327 Juxian
•
•
Pingyi •

Rizhao
209 Jiaozuo •Xinxiang • Heze
107 ~ Zaozhuang
•
106 •
YSanmenxia
204• ~q r08310
Luo He w
Songxian e Shangqiu •
Xuchang
•

• 311

Pingdingshan• Zhoukou KEY

Xixia Luohe• • k International airport
~ Domestic airport
•
National highway
Nanyang

• Xincai • • Fuyang

•

Tanghe

Xinyang • • Huangchuan Major road
0 km 100 Minor road
Railroad

0 miles 100 Provincial border

Buddha, Celestial King, and Defender of the Buddha at Fengxian Si, Longmen Caves

142 BEIJING & THE NORTH

Ji’nan’s modern skyline, with the Yellow River in the distance

Ji’nan 1 fragments (some from Long Tai Shan 2
Shan nearby), and dinosaur
216 miles (350 km) S of Beijing. fossils. Also on display is See pp144–5.
* 5,500,000. ~ £ c n 9 Qian- China’s oldest existing book
made from strips of bamboo. Qufu 3
foshan Dong Er Lu, (0531) 296 7401.
ENVIRONS: Near Liubu village, 112 miles (180 km) S of Ji’nan.
SOUTH OF THE Yellow River as 21 miles (33 km) southeast of * 160,000. £ to Yanzhou, 10 miles
it makes its final thrust for Ji’nan, the Si Men Pagoda (16 km) W, then minibus. c n CITS
the sea, Shandong’s capital is (Four Gate Pagoda) is known 36 Hongdao Lu, (0537) 449 149.
visited primarily by travelers for its antiquity and unusual
en route to the popular sights design. This squat, one-story AS THE BIRTHPLACE of China’s
of Tai Shan, Qingdao, and stone structure with four most revered sage, Qufu
Qufu. It was known for its doors is topped by a steeple, occupies a hallowed place in
many natural springs. The and would have housed the the minds of not only the
most famous of these, the remains of an important monk. Chinese, but also the legions
Black Tiger Spring, gushes The pagoda, erected in AD of Japanese and Koreans who
out of tiger-headed spouts. 611 is the oldest of its kind come here on pilgrimage. In
in China. Inside is a column September the town comes
In the north of town, the with statues of Buddha. alive during the annual festival
park surrounding Daming that celebrates Confucius’s
Hu (Big Brilliant Lake) is } Thousand Buddha birthday. Although the sage
filled with pedal boats, Mountain lived in relative obscurity, his
ponds, gardens, and temples, descendents dwelt in the
and is a good place for a About 3 km (2 miles) south of grand Confucius Mansion
stroll. To the southwest is the Museum (below). # daily. & (Kong Fu) in the heart of
Li Qingzhao Memorial Hall, town. Wielding immense
which commemorates one of E Shandong Provincial
China’s most famous female Museum
poets who lived in the 12th
century. There is a statue of 14 Jingshiyi Lu. # daily.
her as well as portraits and ¢ lunchtimes weekdays. &
extracts from her writings.
Covered corridor to the Confucius Temple at Qufu
In the southeast of the city,
the slopes of Thousand
Buddha Mountain (Qianfo
Shan) are dotted with
Buddhist statues. Several
temples are situated on the
summit, which is over an
hour’s climb up the steps. A
cable- car service is available.
The earliest statuary dates from
the 6th century, but many
recent additions compensate
for the statues broken by Red
Guards. A short walk north of
the mountain is the Shandong
Provincial Museum. Its
exhibits include Buddhist
carvings, Neolithic pottery

SHANDONG & HENAN 143

political authority and wealth,

the Kong family – referred to

by the Chinese as the First

Family Under Heaven – built

a palatial mansion occupying

over 40 acres (16 ha).

Arranged on a traditional

north-south axis, the mansion

is divided into residential and

administrative quarters, with a

temple in the east and a garden

at the rear. Most of the halls

date from the Ming era. The

Gate of Double Glory in the

north was used for the

emperor’s visits, while to the

east stands the Tower of Mencius Temple at Zoucheng, south of Qufu

Refuge, where the family

assembled in times of strife. bixi, primitive, turtle-like Huangdi (259–210 BC), who

Next to the mansion, the dragons. A long succession of wished to burn them. The

Confucius Temple (Kong gateways leads to the 11th- books were rediscovered

Miao) is a lengthy complex of century Kuiwen Pavilion, a during the Han era.

memorial gateways, court- triple-roofed building. In the north of town, the

yards, halls, stele pavilions, Confucius instructed his dis- walled Confucius Forest

auxiliary temples, gnarled ciples from the Apricot (Kong Lin) contains the grave

cypresses, and Pavilion, accessed of Confucius and other mem-

ancestral shrines. through the Great bers of the Kong clan. The

Originally a simple Achievements Gate. forest is mostly pines and

shrine in 478 BC, On top of a marble cypresses interspersed with

the year after terrace with shrines and tombstones.

Confucius’s death, columns that are Not far south of Qufu,

the temple grew elaborately carved Zoucheng (now a city), is

gradually over the with dragons, the the hometown of Mencius

centuries before Great Achievements (372–289 BC), the Confucian

suddenly expan- Hall (Dacheng philosopher, second in

ding during the Dian) forms the importance only to Confucius

Ming and Qing temple’s splendid himself. The tranquil Mencius

eras. Beyond Carved column, nucleus. Beyond, Temple consists of 64 halls set

the entrance stand Confucius Temple the Hall of the around five large courtyards.

198 stone stelae, Sage’s Relics houses As in Qufu, the philosopher

listing the names of as many carved stone plates with scenes has a Mansion and Graveyard.

as 50,000 successful candidates from the sage’s life. The Lu

in the imperial examinations, Wall in the eastern section is P Confucius Mansion

during the Yuan, Ming, and where one of his descendents # 8 am–5 pm daily. &

Qing dynasties. Some are sup- hid his books to save them tConfucius Temple

ported on the backs of mighty from Emperor Qin Shi # daily. &

CONFUCIUS

The teachings of Confucius (551–479 BC), China’s most renowned

philosopher, profoundly influenced the culture of China as well as other

nations, including Japan, Korea, and Vietnam. Born in the state of

Lu during an age of uninterrupted war, Confucius (whose name was

derived from his Chinese name, Kong Fuzi or Master Kong) was

prompted by the suffering around him to develop a practical

philosophy built upon the principle of virtue (ren), in the hope

that rulers would govern in a just manner. Finding no audience

among his native rulers, he communicated his beliefs to a body of

disciples and embarked on a journey in search of a ruler who

would apply his rules of governance. He died unrecognized and

never recorded his philosophy in writing, but his thoughts were

compiled by his followers into a volume called the Analects (Lunyu),

and promulgated. Championed by successive thinkers including

Mencius, Confucius’s philosophy later achieved predominance and

formed the basis for the civil service examination system, a major The philosopher-sage,

hurdle to a career in officialdom right until the 20th century. Confucius

144 BEIJING & THE NORTH

Tai Shan 2 Bixia Ci, dedicated
to the Princess of the
HAVING PLAYED A PART in China’s earliest Azure Clouds, attracts HOU SUI
creation myths, Tai Shan (Peaceful would-be mothers to WU
Mountain) has held sway over the Chinese the summit.

imagination for millennia. It is ascended

year-round by legions of pilgrims and a
t
travelers, making it China’s most climbed
t
mountain. Despite the crowds, a super-

Porter carrying natural presence permeates Tai Shan, best TAOHUA a
supplies to peak YUAN a
experienced via a slow ascent with plenty of
pit stops at wayside shrines and monuments.

Many tourists stay overnight at hotels on the mountain

and watch the sunrise from the cloud-wreathed peak,

which is where Tai Shan’s most significant temples

can be found, attracting droves of devout worshipers.

. Yuhuang Miao a
Dedicated to the supreme Huima Ling
deity of Daoism, the Jade
Emperor Temple marks the
conclusion of the ascent at

5,070 ft (1,545 m) and
houses a statue of the
Jade Emperor and
wall paintings.

. Shiba Pan Longtan t
The last and most punishing part of the climb, the steep Path Shuiku
of Eighteen Bends is visible from Zhong Tian Men (the
halfway point), and brings weary travelers to Nan Tian Men, Dazhong t
the last gate on Tai Shan, but not the summit. Qiao

Heilong Tan STAR SIGHTS
(Black Dragon
Pool) . Shiba Pan
. Yuhuang Miao
Puzhao Si . Dai Miao
Tai Shan’s shrines are
not exclusively Daoist
and this temple – with
a typically Buddhist
name (the Temple of
Universal Light) – is
easily visited if taking
the Western Route up
the mountain.

SHANDONG & HENAN 145

MOUNTAIN OF EMPERORS VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

The most exalted of China’s five Daoist mountains, Tai Shan Tai’an, 45 miles (70 km) S of
has been an essential imperial climb since the time of Qin Shi Jinan. ~ at Jinan. £ c
Huangdi. Emperors ascended Tai Shan to gain assurance that n near Train Station, (0538) 827
their heavenly mandate would be maintained; an abortive 2114. # 24 hrs. & _ Tai Shan
Race (Sep). Dai Miao Shengping
ascent could signal Heaven’s favor was in Jie. # 7:40am–5pm. &
question. Several sights have imperial
associations: Huima Ling (Horse Turns KEY
Back Ridge) marks the spot where
emperor Zhenzong’s horse refused to go a Cable car
t Temple
any farther and the ruler had to
continue by sedan chair. Tai Shan’s Minor road
importance is further evinced by two Path
other notables who clambered up its Built–up area
slopes: Confucius and Mao Zedong.
Stone Sutra Valley
Qin Shi Huangdi, first emperor of China North of Doumu
Gong is a further
CLIMBING TAI SHAN Buddhist contri-
bution to this Daoist
Two routes lead to the summit. The peak, a large flat
Central Route is more popular, follow- rock carved with
ing the traditional imperial way and the text of the
taking travelers past the most notable Diamond Sutra,
one of Buddhist
monuments. Despite having fewer literature’s most
historical sights and not being par- important passages.
ticularly well-marked, the Western
Route boasts lovely natural . Dai Miao
This vast temple is a
scenery, including Heilong natural departure point
Tan. Many travelers ascend by in a climb of the
the Central Route and descend mountain. The main
building, the Tiankuang
by the Western Route. Dian, is an immense
yellow-eaved hall that
JINSHI YU Hong Men Gong contains a massive
(STONE SUTRA This Ming dynasty temple, Red dimly-lit Song dynasty
fresco depicting the
VALLEY) Gate Palace, is the first of Zhenzong emperor as
numerous shrines dedi- the God of Tai Shan.
t Doumu
Gong cated to the Princess of the
Azure Clouds (Bixia).

Yi Tian Men
(First Gate
under Heaven)

t

0 meters 800
0 yards 800

TAI’AN
t

146 BEIJING & THE NORTH

Qingdao 4 Protestant Church, with its
distinctive clocktower and
AWORLD AWAY FROM China’s drab industrial towns, the white clock face. Built in 1910,
breezy seaside city of Qingdao is a colorful port on its exterior has sandy yellow
the Shandong Peninsula. Known to foreign nationals as walls and red clay tiles, while
Tsingtao, where its namesake beer is brewed, pretty the frugal interior is open to
Qingdao’s charms derive from its German textures, visitors. The 128-ft (39-m)
namely its cobbled streets, red roof tiles, distinctive clocktower is also occasionally
stonework, and tree-lined avenues. Its German legacy open, and visitors can climb
dates from 1897, when the city came under German up its steep stairway. Farther
jurisdiction, but was returned to China in 1922. east in Xinhao Shan Park is
Selected as the host city for the sailing competitions the former Governor’s
of the 2008 Olympics, modern-day Qingdao is a clean, Residence, now the Ying
entrepreneurial, and forward-thinking city, a kind of Hotel. This grand mansion
miniature Shanghai with high ambitions. once played host to Yuan
Shikai and Mao Zedong. A
short walk to the south, the

QINGDAO CITY CENTER

Badaguan 7
Governor’s Residence 3
Huashi Lou 6
Protestant Church 4
Qingdao Museum 5
St. Michael’s Church 2
Zhanqiao Pier 1

XIAN N
LU
ZHONGSHAN LUSHEN

Jiaozhou Bay FEI
GUIZ
Ying Hotel, the former Governor’s Residence TAI'AN LU

Exploring Qingdao No. 6 beach. The Local Ferry g LU CAAC
In 1897, Kaiser Wilhelm took busy Zhongshan Lu Terminal SICHUAN
over Qingdao after two running north is c
German missionaries were Qingdao’s premier LU
killed by the Boxers (see shopping street. To HUBEI LU
p433). The Qing court was the east is St.
forced to cede the city to Michael’s Church, UNN AN c £
Germany for 99 years, but it whose twin spires Long Distance
Bus Station Train
GERMANY

Station

HOU XIAN LU TAIP ING LU

LU Qingdao Bay 1

was returned to China in preside over an Tuandao Bay

1922, after eight years under atmospheric part of

Japanese occupation. The town filled with steep

Japanese took over the port cobbled streets and 0 meters 800
again between 1938 and 1945. iron balconies.

Wandering about at leisure is Southeast of the 0 yards 800
the best way to see Qingdao’s church is the charming

main sights, most of which lie

in the German Concession CHINESE BEER
in the southwest of town, that

roughly stretches between Tsingtao, which swears by its magic

Tai’an Lu and Xiaoyu Shan ingredient of mineral water from Lao Shan,

Park. The Germans built the is China’s most famous beer (pijiu). Built

imposing train station, equip- by homesick Germans in 1903, the Tsingtao

ped with a belfry, to mark the brewery is China’s largest, with exports to

end of the line they laid to over 40 countries. Once the best (and most

the provincial capital of Ji’nan. expensive) in China, Tsingtao faces stiff local

Reproduced on the label of competition as international breweries invest

Tsingtao beer, the octagonal heavily in joint ventures in what is the fastest

Huilai Pavilion, which hosts growing beer market in the world. Vast

craft exhibitions, lies at the amounts of beer are drunk during the town’s

tip of Zhanqiao Pier. The Tsingtao Beer Festival in August. The tourist office

1,444 ft (440 m) pier juts into beer can can arrange tours of the brewery.

Qingdao Bay off the frenetic