China

GUANGDONG & HAINAN 297

Sun Yat Sen

FOR MANY, SUN YAT SEN, who spent fifteen years raising money
planned the overthrow of the in support of his cause (in

last Chinese dynasty and the London he was abducted and

establishment of a republic, is held in the Chinese legation).

the father of modern China. Abroad when the Qing

Born in Guangdong in 1860, dynasty fell in 1911, he was

he studied medicine and was made president of the new

greatly influenced by the republic in 1912. Power

leader of the Taiping Rebellion, struggles soon forced him from

and fellow Cantonese, Hong office. He died in 1925 before

Xiuquan (see p422). A failed he was able to establish an

uprising in Canton in 1895 Sun marries Song independent government, with
forced him abroad, where he Qingling, 1915 the aim of uniting the country.

“The World Belongs to All” is a slogan Sun Yat Sen working
reflecting Sun’s democratic notions: the in the office of his
right to vote, the right to recall, and the Guangzhou
powers of legislation and amendment. headquarters, from
where he strove to
create the circum-
stances that would
lead to a democratic
and united China.

Chiang Kai Shek Discussing the organization of a new govern- Seen here as
(standing), who also ment in 1911, before Sun Yat Sen (second from left) Generalissimo in
married a Song sister became president. He then installed Yuan Shikai in 1922, Sun Yat Sen
(see p198), used his own place, who declared himself emperor in established a military
Sun’s theories of polit- 1913, plunging China back into civil war. government in
ical tutelage to justify Guangzhou, the
military dictatorship. base of the Nation-
alist Revolution.

On National Day portraits of Sun
Yat Sen are brandished together
with those of Marx and Engels in
Tian’an Men Square. Sun Yat Sen,
despite his Kuomintang connections
and his antipathy to class war, is
seen as a revolutionary who paved
the way for communism.

298 THE SOUTH

Guangzhou 4 5 Sacred Heart Church

GUANGDONG’S CAPITAL, known as Canton to its 56 Yide Lu. q Haizhu Guangchang.
19th-century foreign residents, is an ancient
and significant port. During the Tang dynasty, A Gothic-style Roman
the city’s trade links throughout Asia gave it a Catholic church, the Sacred
sizable Muslim community. Later, Western Heart Church (Shi Shi
merchants made their first contact with Jiaotang) was built by the
China through this port. Today, Guangzhou French between 1860 and
Bronze luohan, is an affluent, bustling city, with a handful 1880. The land was granted to
Hualin Si of interesting sights including the 2,000-year- France as compensation for
its losses during the Second
old tomb and excavated palace gardens of Opium War. The church’s
the Nanyue kings. Recent developments have greatly twin spires rise to a height of
improved the infrastructure, with new metro lines, and 190 ft (58 m), and its bell
the restoration of old buildings. South of the city, tower contains four bronze
Shamian Island was the site of the foreign concession bells cast in France.
and is filled with charming colonial-style buildings.
E Peasant Movement
Institute

42 Zhongshan Lu. Q Nongjiang Suo.
# 9am–4pm daily. &

The city’s revolutionary past
is on display in this former
Ming Confucian temple. In
1924, the building became a
training school for peasant
revolutionaries, who were
taught by leaders such as Mao
Zedong and Zhou Enlai (see
p250). The school closed in
1927, after the Guandong
Communist uprising, when
5,000 people were killed
under the orders of General
Chiang Kai Shek (see p66).

Y Nan Yue Palace Gardens

Zhongshan Lu. Q Nongjiang Suo.

A variety of foodstuffs, grains, and spices on sale, Qingping Market # 9am–noon & 2:30pm–5:30pm

daily. &

( Qingping Market Si is notable for its main hall This extraordinary site

Qingping Lu. Q Huang Sha. # daily. with 500 images of luohan or contains the excavated gardens

Just across the road from arhat (those freed from the that surrounded the palace of

Shamian Island (see pp300–1) cycle of rebirth); one of them, Zhao Tuo, the founder of the

is one of China’s largest and sporting a broad-brimmed ancient Nan Yue Kingdom (see

most famous markets, hat, is supposed to be the p300). A Qin general from

devoted to all types of pro- merchant Marco Polo. Hebei province, he founded

duce. On sale are medicines, an independent king-

spices, vegetables, dried sea- dom after the fall of the

food, grains, fish, meat, and Qin dynasty. The site

live animals, including cats, is covered by a corru-

dogs, and endangered species. gated roof, and a

Fortunately, the numbers of raised pathway leads

endangered animals on sale past the main sights.

have drastically reduced in To the northeast, a

recent years. For some visitors, paved lake and an

the atmosphere is too gory, ornamental stream are

while for others it is clearly visible, while in

exhilaratingly Chinese. the southwestern

corner are the remains

t Hualin Si of an even older Qin-

Near Changshou Lu. Q Changshou dynasty shipyard. The

Lu. # daily. site’s small museum

The city’s liveliest Buddhist exhibits stone slabs,

temple, founded in AD 526, pillars, and roof-tiles,

was one of the many shrines many of which bear

visited by Bodhidarma, the the inscription

Indian founder of Chan “Panyu,” Guangzhou’s

Buddhism (see p159). Hualin Devotees lighting incense sticks, Hualin Si original name.

GUANGZHOU 299

U Huaisheng Mosque most of the current halls date VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

56 Guangta Lu. Q Xi Men Kou. to the 19th century. The 94 miles (150 km) NW of Hong
Kong. * 6,660,000. k £
# to Muslims only. pillared main hall in particular Guangzhou Station & East Train
Station. c Provincial Bus
Said to have been founded is impressive, and has several Station, Liuhua Station & Tianhe
Bus Station. g to Hong Kong
during the Tang dynasty by Buddha images, while the from Nanhai Port. n 179
Huanshi Xi Lu, (020) 8666 6889.
Abu Waqas (see p300), this is three pagodas behind it are of
has a total of 17 – they are
one of China’s oldest mos- great antiquity. Of these, one well worth a climb. The
pagoda’s wooden eaves are
ques. Although much of the was built in AD 676 over a covered in intricate carvings
of birds, insects, and lions.
mosque has been recently hair of Hui Neng, the At the top is an enormous
bronze pillar with reliefs of
constructed, it contains Sixth Zen Patriarch (AD meditating figures.

an ancient Islamic-style 638– 713) who came Little remains of the original
temple, which was associated
minaret and numerous from Guangzhou, while with Hui Neng. The Hall of
the Sixth Patriarch contains a
stone stelae. the other two are 10th- bronze figure of him, cast in
AD 989. The temple was
century structures. named by the exiled Song
dynasty poet Su Dongpo (see
t Guangxiao Si p304) in appreciation of the
trees in the temple. His callig-
109 Guangzhou Lu. t Liu Rong Si raphic characters that read
“Liu Rong” are engraved into
Q Xi Men Kou. # daily. & Liurong Lu. Q Gongyuan stone over the gateway.

Thought to have been Qian. # 8am–5pm

founded during the daily. &

Han dynasty, the Liu Rong Si, the Six

Guangxiao Si Banyan Temple,

(Temple of Glorious was established in

Filial Piety) is one of AD 537 to house a

the city’s most attrac- portion of the

tive sights. Built over Buddha’s ashes,

the palace of the last which were brought

Nan Yue king, it Ancient pagoda, from India and

became a temple in Guangxiao Si enshrined in the

the 5th century and Flower Pagoda (Hua

was later visited by Ta). Rebuilt in 1097, the 187-ft

Bodhidarma, the founder of (57-m) octagonal pagoda

Chan Buddhism. None of the appears to have nine stories

original buildings survive, and from the outside, but in fact

Provincial N £ Guangzhou International
Bus Station Airport

GUANGZHOU CITY CENTER c LU q Station
HI XI
N S n
c
Chen Jia Ci 9 Shamian Island e HU A Guangzhou
Guangxiao Si 7 Yuexiu Huochezhan
Huaisheng Mosque 6 HUANSHI ZHONG
Hualin Si 2 Gongyuan w Liuhua JIEFANG BEI LUq
Station RENMIN BEI LU
Yuexiu

ZHAN U Gongyuan LU
IAN
Liu Rong Si 8 L q
Nan Yue Palace
Q w Art Museum

Gardens 5 LIUHUA LU 0 Tianhe Bus Station
East Train Station

Nan Yue Tomb 0 DONGFENG XI LIUHUA HU YUEX
Orchid Garden & GONGYUAN
JIEFANG BEI LUq Zhongshan IU LU
Islamic Cemetery q LU LIURONG LU Jiniantang
Peasant Movement
XIHUA LU DONGFENG ZHONG LU

Institute 4 7
Qingping Market 1 9 RENMIN LU
Sacred Heart Church 3 Nanhai HAIZHU LU8 5 4q
Port q Chenjia Ci
ZHONGSHAN LU Nongjiang
ZHONGSHAN LU q Suo
q Gongyuan
LONGJIN ZHONG LU Xi Men JIEFANG NAN LU
Kou Qian

WENCHANG LU 6 WENMING LU

Changshou q HUIFU XI LU
Lu
KEY CHANGSHOU LU DADE
LU
£ Train station 2 q Haizhu
c Long distance bus station DALXUIN Guangchang
Q Subway station SHANGJIU LU
n Tourist information REN M IN NAN LU 3 LU
N Post office
YIDE HBARIIZDHGUE

Huang 1 XI LU r 0 meters 800
Sha ar R 0 yards 800
LIUERSAN LU
q

NG i v e
Pe
N J I A l

SHAMIAN ISLAND RBERNIMD GI NE YA

e

300 THE SOUTH

t Chen Jia Ci halls are generally lower and grandson of Zhao Tuo. Zhao
broader, and they are some- Tuo, a Qin general from Hebei
34 Enlongji Lu. Q Chen Jia Ci. how more casual. Roofs, and province, was sent here in 214
# 8:30am–5:30pm daily. & as in the case of the first hall BC to control southern China.
here, façades, are often smoth- After the fall of the Qin, Zhao
This temple, in the gloriously ered in fantastic designs and Tuo established the Nan Yue
colorful southern style, was sculpted figures from operas. Kingdom. Shortly after his
built in 1890 with funds do- grandson’s death, it was
nated by members of the Chen P Nan Yue Tomb reclaimed by the Han kings.
clan. It was to act as a temple
of ancestor worship and as a 867 Jiefang Bei Lu. § (020) 8666 The tomb contains magnif-
school. Though obviously 4920. Q Yuexiu Gongyuan. # 9am– icent burial items made of
Chinese, these southern tem- 5:30pm, last entry 4:45pm daily. & gold and precious stones,
ples are quite different from including a jade burial suit.
their northern counterparts. This is the site of the 2,000- Many of the captions are in
Less severely classical, their year-old tomb of Zhao Mo, English, and a video recounts
the story of the excavation
that took place in 1983.

Brick relief of a traditional opera on the façade of Chen Jia Ci Y Orchid Garden &
Islamic Cemetery

Jiefang Bei Lu. Q Yuexiu Gongyuan.
# 8am–6pm daily. &

This charming garden has
bamboo groves and ponds
overhung with palms. The
orchids are in greenhouses,
and the best time to see them
is late winter to early spring.
Along the garden’s western
edge, the cemetery contains

Shamian Island Christ Church served
the Protestants among
LEASED TO THE FRENCH and British after the Chinese were the British community
defeated during the Second Opium War (1856–60), at the west end of the
this island is really little more than a sandbank about half island.
a mile (800 m) long. Before being allowed to
settle on Shamian Island, foreigners had SHAMIAN
previously been compelled to remain in SHAMIAN WU JIE
their warehouses. Soon after the French SHAMIAN SI JIE
settled at the east end and the British at
the west, the streets filled with
European-style villas, banks, and
churches. Chinese people were long
forbidden to enter the island, so an
exclusively European way of life
prevailed on this strange outpost.

American
Consulate

White Swan
Hotel

Cannon in Shamian Park
The two cannons found in Shamian Park
were manufactured in the neighboring
city of Foshan for use during the mid-19th
century Opium Wars.

GUANGZHOU 301

what is said to be the tomb of
Abu Waqas, the uncle of the
Prophet, credited with bring-
ing Islam to China. Though
closed to non-Muslims, it can
be viewed through a screen.

Y Yuexiu Gongyuan Sun Yat Sen Memorial Hall, Yuexiu Gongyuan

Jiefang Bei Lu. Q Yuexiu Gongyuan. Five Immortals riding five E Art Museum
rams, who planted sheaves of
Spread over 222 acres (90 corn to ensure that famine 13 Luhu Lu. § (020) 8365 9337.
ha), Yuexiu Park is one of the would never strike. # 9am–5pm Mon–Fri,
largest municipal parks in 9:30am–4:30pm Sat–Sun daily. &
China. It is split into several Nearby, the Municipal
parts by Huanshi Zhong Lu Museum is housed in the This contemporary museum
and Qingyuan Lu. The most Zhenhai Lou, a Ming watch- exhibits shows by major
striking building, the Sun Yat tower. It has 1,200 exhibits Chinese artists. On permanent
Sen Memorial Hall, is in the dating from 4000 BC to the display is an exhibition of the
southernmost section off present, and includes a works of political cartoonist
Dongfeng Zhong Lu. Built in Christian tract that inspired the Liao Bingxiong, who was
1931 in traditional style with Taiping Rebellion (see p422). criticized in 1958 for his
a blue tiled roof, it marks the Rightist leanings.
spot where Dr. Sun Yat Sen
(see p297) was proclaimed
head of government in 1923.

Most of the other sights lie
in the middle of the park,
including the Five Rams
Statue – the city symbol that
commemorates the myth that
Guangzhou was founded by

LIUERSAN LU Façade on Da Jie
This bank’s façade is in typical
European colonial style. A number

of restored buildings along
Shamian Dajie have plaques
describing their former occupants.

SHAMIAN BEI JIE

SAN JIE SHAMIAN ER JIE SHAMIAN YI JIE
DA JIE
SHAMIAN DA JIE

SHAMIAN

SHAMIAN SHAMIAN NAN JIE Our Lady of Lourdes
GONGYUAN This Catholic church was
CUIZHOU primarily where the French
E L E VAT E D GONGYUAN community, which occupied
the island’s eastern end,
R O A D W AY would attend services.

Zhu Jiang

0 meters 150 KEY
0 yards 150
Suggested route

302 THE SOUTH

Zhaoqing 7

The bedroom at Sun Yat Sen’s residence, Cuiheng 68 miles (110 km) W of Guangzhou.
* 3,680,000. £ c g to Hong
Cuiheng 5 other crafts, it is worth visiting Kong. n Duanzhou Wu Lu, (0758)

the Foshan Folk Art Studio, 222 9908.

housed in a former Ming THIS ATTRACTIVE CITY was the
home of the Italian Jesuit
19 miles (30 km) E of Zhongshan temple, the Renshou Si, in the priest Matteo Ricci in the late
town. c from Zhongshan & Zhuhai. southern part of town. Nearby, 16th century, before he was
the Zuci Miao was founded in summoned to Beijing by the
Ming emperor, Wanli. Today,
ZHONGSHAN county, located AD 1080 as a Daoist temple. it is famous for the scenery at
56 miles (90 km) It is lavishly decorated Qixing Yan (Seven Star
Crag), 1 mile (2 km) to the
south of Guangzhou, with ceramic figures, north. Located beside a lake,
the mist-covered peaks lie in
is the birthplace of made in nearby the shape of the Big Bear
constellation, and are thought
Sun Yat Sen (see Shiwan, repre- to be fallen stars. They can be
explored via a network of
p297), whose senting scenes bridges and causeways.

name is Sun from traditional The city’s sights include the
Chongxi Ta, a pagoda
Zhongshan in opera and folk overlooking the Xi Jiang. Built
in the Ming period, it is the
Mandarin. This Elaborate stone roof of stories. Near the tallest pagoda in Guangdong.
The old City Walls still stand
revolutionary Zuci Miao, Foshan entrance is a gar- on Jianshe Lu, while in the
western suburbs, the Plum
leader was born den displaying Monastery is associated with
Huineng, the Sixth Chan
in Cuiheng village on the out- the cannons that were used Buddhist Patriarch.

skirts of Zhongshan town in against the British in the A short bus ride northeast
of the city is the forested
1866. The Portuguese-style Opium Wars. reserve of Dinghu Shan,
which offers numerous scenic
house in which he lived with walking trails.

his parents between 1892 and E Foshan Folk Art Studio } Qixing Yan

1895 is now part of a memo- Zumiao Lu. # daily. & § (0758) 227 7724.
# 7:30am–5:30pm daily. &
rial garden devoted to his life. t Zuci Miao

Nearby, other houses belong- 21 Zumiao Lu. # 8:30am–7:30pm

ing to the same period have daily. &

been restored and are also

open to the public.

E Sun Yat Sen’s Residence

Cuiheng Dadao. § (0760) 550 1878.

# 9am–5pm daily. &

Foshan 6

17 miles (28 km) SW of Guangzhou.
* 3,210,000. £ c minibuses
from Guangzhou. n 14 Zumiao Lu,

(0757) 8222 3828.

FOSHAN HAS been known The Piyun Tower perched atop Zhaoqing’s ancient city walls
since the Song dynasty for
its fine ceramics, particularly
figurines with a pale blue
glaze. Visits to factories can be
arranged through the tourist
office. To view the town’s

GUANGDONG & HAINAN 303

The grand gateway of Feilai Gusi along the banks of Bei Jiang

Feilai & Feixia 8 during the Cultural Revolution. the southeast, was founded in
It is currently being refurbished, AD 502 and became renowned
52 miles (85 km) NW of Guangzhou. and there are some impressive for its connection with
c to Qingyuan. Feilai & Feixia frescoes worth seeking out. Bodhidarma, the founder of
Temples 4 depart daily at 8am Chan (Zen) Buddhism who
from Qingyuan. Shaoguan 9 meditated here for 36 years.
One of the halls contains a
THE BUSY MARKET town of 125 miles (200 km) N of Guangzhou. statue of him, said to have
Qingyuan is the access £c been cast from his corpse;
point for two picturesque another has a statue of a
temples located at Feilai and SHAOGUAN TOWN HAS only a monk walking on stilts. The
Feixia on Bei Jiang, that can handful of sights such as the bell tower has a large, 700-
only be reached by ferry. The Fengcai Lou, a reconstruction year-old bronze bell cast in
ferries, which depart early in of an ancient city gate, and the Song dynasty.
the morning and return in the the Dajian Chan Monastery
afternoon, pass fishermen founded in AD 660, but there About 31 miles (50 km)
whose cormorants – trained are three worthwhile places northeast of town, Danxia
to fish for them – sit patiently of interest in the vicinity. The Shan is a 112-sq-mile (290-
on the prows of sampans. Nanhua Si (Southern Flower sq-km) park on the banks of
The first temple, Feilai Gusi, Temple) 16 miles (25 km) to the Jin. It has a number of
was founded about 1,400 rocky outcrops in fascinating
years ago and is situated on Statue of a monk walking on shapes, with trails leading to
the steep riverbank of a “improbable stilts,” Nanhua Si their summits. A boat or bus
gorge. Steps lead up from the takes visitors farther along the
river to its ornate gateway. Its river to Danxia Shan itself.
current buildings are mainly Meaning “Red Cloud,” it has
from the Ming dynasty. A brilliant red sandstone cliffs,
short walk through the with paths leading past hill-
various buildings leads to side monasteries .
a modern pavilion, from
where there are superb views About 11 miles (18 km)
along the river. south of Shaoguan is Shizi
Yan, a cave where the prehis-
Located a short distance toric remains of Homo erectus,
farther along the gorge is Feixia our immediate ancestor, were
Gusi comprising two late 19th- found. The museum displays
century Daoist temples, Feixia arrowheads, pottery, and artif-
and Cangxia. Feixia is much acts from local prehistoric sites.
larger than Feilai, and its stone
halls and temples are sur- t Nanhua Si
rounded by a fine set of walls.
Cangxia, located up the hill- # 7:30am–5:30pm daily. &
side, was severely damaged
} Danxia Shan

# daily. &

T Shizi Yan

# daily. &

304 THE SOUTH

Hainan Island 0 of Tongshi, the town of

Qiongzhong is surrounded

by some beautiful scenery,

ALTHOUGH CHINA’S LARGEST ISLAND became a part of the including the impressive 984-

Chinese empire during the Han dynasty, it remained ft (300-m) high waterfall at
a backwater and place of exile until the mid-20th century. Baihua Shan.

It was so remote that its ethnic Li people still lived a The East Coast
primitive hunter-gatherer existence until as late as the
1930s. In 1988, it became a Special Economic Zone, but a Wenchang 68 miles (109 km) SE of
decline in investments has left behind unfinished Haikou. c
construction sites all over. Despite this, Hainan is today
Overseas Chinese Tropical Farm
§ (0898) 6362 6257. # daily. &

an independent province with much to offer. Its The town of Wenchang is

attractions include the tropical beaches around the the ancestral home of the

southern city of Sanya, impressive mountain scenery in Song sisters (see p198), two
the southwest, and coffee plantations on its east coast. of whom, Qingling and
Meiling, married the revolu-

tionary leaders Sun Yat Sen

and Chiang Kai Shek. Its main

attractions are the beaches

and coconut groves at

Dongjiao Yelin. About 62

miles (100 km) south on the

outskirts of Wanning town,

Dongshan Ling has

curiously shaped natural rock

formations. Farther south,

Xinglong is known through-

out China for its coffee, and

the Xinglong Tropical

Botanical Gardens, 2 miles

(3 km) south of town offer

coffee and tea tastings.

Xinglong’s Overseas Chinese

Fish being laid out to dry in Xincun on the East Coast Tropical Farm is home to

over 20,000 overseas Chinese,

Haikou Tongshi & the Central who emigrated from Vietnam

300 miles (480 km) N of Sanya. Highlands and other countries in South-

* 515,000. k c g mainland Tongshi 260 miles (416 km) SW of east Asia to make their living

ferries from Xingang pier. Haikou. c from Sanya & Haikou. through the production of

The island’s capital is a busy Nationality Museum # daily. & coffee and rubber. South of

port and transport hub, with The central mountainous Xinglong is Lingshui, the

the ambience of a tropical region is worth visiting for its principal town of the Lingshui

Asian city. To its southeast, spectacular landscape as well Li Autonomous County, that is

Wugong Ci (Five Officials as for the chance to explore home to a large number of Li

Memorial Temple) was built the island’s ethnic culture. people who have lived on

in 1889 to honor a group The main town is the pleasant Hainan since 200 BC. The

of scholars who were Tongshi, which is the

banished here during the capital of the autono-

Tang dynasty for criticizing mous Li & Miao

their government. One of its governments. The

halls commemorates the Nationality Museum

Song-era poet, Su Dongpo, offers an excellent

who was also exiled here insight into all aspects

between 1097 and 1100. of Hainan’s history

To the west of the city cen- and culture. Tongshi’s

ter is a massive fortification at surrounding coun-

Xiuyang, constructed by the tryside has remnants

Chinese in the 19th century to of traditional Li houses

resist the French. It is sur- and barns. About 31

rounded by thick stone walls miles (50 km) north-

concealing six large cannons, east of town is the

that are connected by subter- 6,125-ft (1,867-m) high

ranean passages. Farther Wuzhi Shan, which is

southwest is the tomb of Hai sacred to the Li

Rui, an upright Ming dynasty people. It is a pleasant

official who was exiled to hike to the mountain’s

Hainan for criticism. summit. Also northeast Calligraphy at Dongshan Ling Ridge

GUANGDONG & HAINAN 305

VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

15 miles (25 km) S of Guangdong.
* 8,250,000. k £ train-ferry
shuttle from Guangzhou.
g from Beihai, Shenzhen &
Guangzhou. n 17 Datong Lu,
Haikou, (0898) 6675 7455. _ Li
People San Yue San Festival (the
3rd day of the 3rd lunar month).

The pristine, palm-fringed beach at Yalong Bay (25 km) northwest, is known
for its famous rock that appears
Communist Museum Sanya & the South Coast on the two-yuan note. The
commemorates China’s first other attraction is Ximao Zhou
Communist government that 300 miles (480 km) S of Haikou. Island, a two-hour boat ride
was formed in Hainan in 1928. * 440,000. ~ c off the coast. It is popular for
Many of Lingshui’s narrow snorkeling and hiking.
streets remain unchanged since Hainan’s main attractions are
the early 1900s, and are lined the tropical beaches near the O Jianfeng Ling Nature
with quaint shops and houses. town of Sanya. The busiest Reserve
Just 6 miles (10 km) south beach is Dadonghai, just
of Lingshui is Xincun with south of town, with hotels, 65 miles (115 km) NW of Sanya.
a large Hakka population restaurants, and shops. The c to Dongfang (Basuo) from Sanya,
(see p290). Close by and area’s best beach is to the east then local bus. # daily.
accessible only by boat, of town at Yalong Bay, with
Monkey Island has a sizable a 4-mile (7-km) stretch of Pleasantly situated in the
colony of Guangxi macaques, pristine sand. The beach at mountains, this highland
and is a popular day trip Tianya Haijiao, 16 miles rainforest, with its huge trees,
from Xincun. ferns, and vines as well as
species of birds and butterflies,
offers great walks and hikes.

g •Haikou
k

Xinying • Wenchang

Danzhou •

• •

Dongjiao
Yelin

• Baisha • Qionghai

Bawan Ling

• Dongfang • Qiongzhong
(Basuo)

Wuzhi Shan

Wanning KEY

• Tongshi • k International airport
~ Domestic airport
JIANFENG LING Qizhi Xinglong • g Ferry terminal
NATURE RESERVE Shan
National highway
Jianfeng Major road
Ling Minor road
Railroad
Yazhou • Tianya • Lingshui Mountain peak
Haijiao
• Xincun
•~ Nanwan Houdao
(Monkey Island)

Ximaozhou • • •Yalong
Bay
• Sanya 0 km 25

Dongmaozhou

0 miles 25



THE SOUTH 307

HONG KONG & MACAU

ALTHOUGH TINY AND RELATIVELY recently developed, Hong Kong
and Macau are rich and fascinating oddities. They owe
their unique identities as administrative regions separate
from China to the trade that flourished between East and West from

the 16th century onwards, and to the British and Portuguese powers

that annexed and held them until 1997 and 1999 respectively.

The Portuguese were the first manufacturing indus-
Europeans to settle at “A-Ma Gau” try boomed. It soon
or the Bay of A-Ma – the region’s grew into a densely
patron goddess – in 1557. Today, packed, high-rise city
Macau, as it came to be known, built by ambitious colon-
is a charming haven of pastel- ial administrators and
colored colonial mansions millions of Chinese migrants
and glitzy casinos, the pro- escaping the turmoil convulsing their
ceeds of which, along with Communist homeland. In its final
tourism, keep this tiny years as a British territory, Hong
region financially afloat. Kong’s status as a major financial
center was established. Despite the
In the 1800s, China’s attempt to 1997 Asian financial crisis, it retains
destroy Britain’s lucrative opium trade its sleek international gloss, its enter-
drove the British to blockade Chinese prise, and its breathtaking visual
ports and eventually secure Hong impact. Standing in Kowloon and
Kong as their own trading enclave gazing at the skyscrapers scaling
in 1841. The area, hitherto inhabited Hong Kong Island’s hills, writer
by farmers and fisherfolk, quickly Pico Iyer’s description sums it up
flourished. After World War II and succinctly: “a dream of Manhattan,
the four-year Japanese occupation, arising from the South China Sea.”
trade resumed and Hong Kong’s

Spirals of fragrant incense hanging in Daoist Man Mo Temple, Hong Kong
The Star Ferry dwarfed by Central’s modern skyscrapers, Hong Kong

308 THE SOUTH

Exploring Hong Kong & Macau

THE BUSTLING HEART OF Hong Kong is broken in two Guangzhou
and divided by Victoria Harbour. Its key sights,
cultural attractions, shopping, and eating spots are •
found along the northern shore of Hong Kong Island,
and at, or close to, Kowloon’s southern tip. Between •
Kowloon and the border with the rest of China lie
the New Territories, with their rugged mountains and Zhaoqing
most of Hong Kong’s modern, high-rise dormitory GUANGDONG
towns. The other major islands – Lamma, Cheung
Chau, and Lantau – are west of Hong Kong Island, Zhongshan Shenzhen
and beyond these is Macau. A passport is necessary to
leave or arrive in both Macau and Hong Kong, as they • •
are still administered as autonomous regions of China.
Kowloon
•

• •

Macau Hong Kong
Island

South China Sea

LOCATOR MAP

See Map pp276–7

SIGHTS AT A GLANCE

Historic Sites, Neighborhoods Other Attractions

& Towns Happy Valley Racecourse 4

Aberdeen j Ocean Park k

Causeway Bay 3 Star Ferry w

Central 1

The Escalator 8 Shops & Markets

Hollywood Road 9 Bird & Flower Markets o

Lan Kwai Fong 7 Sheung Wan’s Markets q Shenzhen Mai
Macau pp326–9 n Temple Street & Bay Po
Nathan Road t g•
Stanley x Jade Markets i
Tsim Sha Tsui Waterfront e Fairview •
Walled Villages f Islands Park
Wan Chai 2 Cheung Chau Island v
Lamma Island c Wang Sha Lam
Chau Country
Po Tsuen
•

•

Yuen•Long

Lantau Island b

Museums • Tai Lam
Hong Kong Heritage Museum a Country Park
Hong Kong Museum of Art r Tai Shui
Hang

Hong Kong Museum of History u • San Hui Village
Hong Kong Science Museum y
Lung Kwu Tan • Tuen Mun • Tai Lam Chung
Parks, Gardens & Areas of Reservoir
Natural Beauty g
Deep Water & Repulse Bays l Siu Lang Shui • • Pillar Point

Ma
Wan

Hong Kong Zoological & n Macau Yam O•
Botanical Gardens 5
Chek Lap Kok k Airport
Maclehose Trail h International Airport
Mai Po Marshes g
Sai Kung Town & Peninsula Chek Lap Kok Discovery
Bay
Beaches d •g Peng Chau
Victoria Peak pp312–13 6 Island
Tung Chung Lantau North g
Temples & Monasteries •
10,000 Buddhas
L a n t a u Country Park Mui Wo
Monastery s •g
Hong Kong Life Saving Island

Society z Tai O • •b
Ngong
Lantau South
Country Park Ping • Pui O

•g

Cheung Chimawan
Peninsula
Sha

Man Mo Temple 0 •Fan Lau gv
Wong Tai Sin Temple p
0 km 5 Cheung
Chau

0 miles 5

HONG KONG & MACAU 309

HONG KONG ISLAND & KOWLOON GETTING AROUND

For Street Finder Map see pp334–7 Hung The best way to get around Hong Kong’s
KOWLOON Hom closely packed central areas is on foot.
The efficient MTR (Mass Transit Railway),
WESTERN HARBOUR CROSSING u which is the city’s subway system, serves
CHATHAM RD SOUTH y the central districts, and has a fast,
CROSS HARBOUR TUNNEL modern airport line, while the KCR
TSIM SHA TSIM SHA (Kowloon-Canton Railway) links the
TSUI NATHAN RD TSUI EAST center with the New Territories and China
CARONTAODN (see p632). Buses, trams, and taxis operate
t gROA D from all major nodes and are cheap by
international standards. The Star Ferry
SALISBURY East Tsim (see p315), shuttles between Hong Kong
Island and Kowloon, while regular inter-
g e r Sha Tsui island ferries link Hong Kong with the
main islands. The fast, sleek Macau-bound
g ferries leave from their own terminal just
Victoria Harbour west of the inter-island ferry terminal.

SHEUNG Hong SEE ALSO

wq WAN RCDON Kong w • Where to Stay pp566–7
NCAEUNGTHRTAL g
09HO LLYW QUE EN'S CHUNG WAN g CAUSEWAY • Where to Eat pp592–3
OOD
0 NR RD (CENTRAL)
1N TR AL RD
8 7ROBINSO CE 2 BAY
RD 3
GLOUCESTER RD
D
R DEN QU E E N S WAN CHAI SY RD WONG NAI C H UNG
5 HO KONG W AY NES D
G A RK J O H EN NR
NG HN S TO
PA

0 meters 800 HONG KONG

ISLAND 4

6 0 yards 800 RD

She Shenzhen

Shenzhen
Lo Wu

Sh Sheung Shui •

•Kwan Tei

Sheung Pat Sin Leng Plover Cove
Country Park Country Park
Shui • Fanling
Fanling f Pat Sin

Range Hoi Ha Wan

Plover Marine

Ch Chuen Shuen Wan • Cove Park g Tap Mun Chau
Pa Park Reservoir Chek Mun
(Grass Island)
Tai Wo San Mun (Tolo-Channel)
• Tsai
•Tai Po Tai Tan

Tai Po Tolo Harbour Sai Kung West Hoi
Market
g Country Park g Tai Wan
Tai Mo Shan Ko Tong•
Country Park Sharp
Peak

University g Jacob's •Pak Tam
Ladder
N E W T E R R I T O R I E Sh h Au Tai Long Wan
Pak Tam Sai Kung East •
Ta Tai Lam Shing Mun Ma On Shan Country Park Tai Long
Cou Country Country Park Fo Tan Country Park Chung Sai Wan
s •
P Park Sha Tin •
Sha Tin •

a Tai Mong
d Tsai
Golden Tai Wei • Wu Lei Tau High Island
HIll Reservoir
• Lion Rock
Country Country Park Sharp
Ts Tsuen Wan Park Island Kai Sai
Tsin Tsing Yi g Ho Chung •
•Wo Mei Chau

T Tsing Yi Kowloon p Tiu Chung
Tong

oKOWLOON • Tseng Lan Shue Chau

i Mong g • KEY

Kok Tsung

Kowloon Hung Kwan O k International airport
Hom g g Ferry terminal
g East Tsim g
g Sha Tsui • Tseung Train station
Kwan
Hong Kong • North Point (Junk Bay)

Central Clearwater Bay
• Po Toi O
Pok Fu Lam National highway
Country Hong Kong Joss House •Tei Tong Major road
Park Bay Tsui Minor road
Island Shek O KCR East Rail
j Country Tung Lung Walking trail
Tai Tam
Yu Yung Shue l Country Park Chau

Wan k Park

• East Lamma zRepulse •
Channel Bay
g Shek O S o u t h C h i n a

g x Cape Sea

c•Sok Kwu Wan D'Aguilar Ferry route

Lamma

Island Lo Chau Special Administrative
(Beaufont Island) Region

Po Toi Island

310 THE SOUTH

The Two IFC Tower near the Star However, not all the The IFC Mall at the tower’s
structures lack imagination. base is one of Hong Kong’s
Ferry Terminal The modernistic, but feng largest malls, adding to
shui-friendly girders of the Central’s several upmarket
Central 1 HSBC (Hong Kong & shopping malls, such as
Shanghai Banking Corpo- The Landmark. There are
Hong Kong Island. Map 2 C3. ration) Headquarters loom plans to build a tower even
q Central. 4 Star Ferry from over the square. Designed by taller than IFC across the
British architect Sir Norman water in Kowloon.
Kowloon. Foster and completed in 1985,
it was at that time one of the Hong Kong’s history is now
THE SLEEK, corporate most expensive buildings, showcased during the winter
cathedrals of local banks costing more than HK$5 holiday season in a sound
and businesses tower over the billion. Be sure to take the and light show, where the
ever-teeming streets of Hong escalators up to its impressive Victoria Harbour skyline is lit
Kong’s financial and lobby, and rub the paws of with festive lights that create
administrative epicenter. the regal-looking lions giant pictures on the buildings.
Apart from Statue Square, outside for luck. The stark
which is at the heart of the spike of the Bank of China The roof of the Convention &
area, there are few cultural headquarters rises behind Exhibition Centre
sights in Central, as many the HSBC Headquarters.
colonial buildings have long Designed by the renowned Wan Chai 2
since disappeared, making Chinese-born architect I.M.
way for high-rise develop- Pei, its harsh, angular lines go Hong Kong Island. Map 3 F3.
ment. The desire for real against all feng shui guide- q Wan Chai. 4 Star Ferry from
estate has always been strong, lines, and it is seen as an Kowloon. v @
and land reclamation started aggressive statement that
almost as soon as the British offsets the benign energies of MADE FAMOUS IN Richard
took over in 1841. This the HSBC Headquarters. Mason’s 1957 novel
continous reclamation has The World of Suzy Wong,
made Hong Kong Island and Northwest of Statue Square Wan Chai’s colorful 1950s
Kowloon creep even closer. near the Star Ferry Terminal is and 60s red light district
Central is easily explored on Hong Kong’s tallest building has given way to new
foot, allowing visitors a close and currently the world’s development, fancy bars,
view of some of the most third tallest high-rise, the 88- restaurants, and hotels. The
interesting buildings, story, 1,362-ft (415-m) Two Wan Chai MTR is a good
especially in Statue Square. International Finance starting point for a walking
Centre (IFC), built in 2003. tour. A trip down Lockhart
The elegant Neo-Classical Work is also underway on Road, just around the corner
Legislative Building, two towers that will house a from the MTR, reveals the
surmounted by the blind- prestigious 1,000 room hotel. area’s few remaining ties with
folded figure of Themis, its past in the form of a
the Greek goddess of justice, HSBC building (right) on Statue handful of go-go bars.
is the sole surviving colonial Square and Bank of China (left)
structure in the square. A five-minute walk north
Completed in 1911, it of the MTR across Gloucester
originally served as Hong Road is Central Plaza, at one
Kong’s Supreme Court and time the tallest, and still one
today houses the Legislative of Hong Kong’s grandest
Council (Legco), the skyscrapers. There are
legislative arm of the splendid views from the 46th
region’s government. floor. Facing Central Plaza
across Harbour Road is the
Beyond the Legislative HK$4.8 billion Convention &
Building, the municipal-style Exhibition Centre. The
architecture of the square’s
center is rather disappointing.

HONG KONG 311

sweeping lines of the extension
at its northern end are intended
to create the impression of a
bird taking flight. This was
the venue for the 1997
ceremony during which Britain
handed Hong Kong back to
China. The glass walls offer
fine harbor views, and outside
are a large promenade and a
pleasant sitting area.

Causeway Bay 3

The historic Noonday Gun, fired daily at noon, Causeway Bay

Hong Kong Island. q Causeway Bay. celebrated in Noel Coward’s shout their way through the
v Eastbound (to Shau Kei Wan) song “Mad Dogs and evening. Horse racing is a
Englishmen.” passion in Hong Kong; it’s
trams. one of the only legal gambling
Most of the land that opportunities available to
ANEON-LIT CRUSH of giant Causeway Bay stands on is local people. The industry is
department stores, such reclaimed. The old shoreline carefully controlled, with only
as Sogo and Mitsukoshi, and used to skirt the temple to Tin the Hong Kong Jockey Club
the ever-present crowds of Hau (Guanyin) near Tin Hau allowed to run the betting.
shoppers is the first view of MTR and was edged with
Causeway Bay when British-owned warehouses. Formerly a malaria-ridden
emerging from the MTR. East marsh, Happy Valley was
of the MTR sprawls Victoria Happy Valley turned into a racecourse as it
Park, Hong Kong’s largest Racecourse 4 was the widest stretch of flat
public park and a serene land on Hong Kong Island.
place to swim, play tennis, or Hong Kong Island. v Happy Valley. The first race was held here
practice tai ji quan. Close to & For race night details, call 1817. in 1846. Today, the huge
the harbor, also known as the ∑ www.hkjc.com/english stand holds more than 55,000
typhoon shelter, is the spectators. Racing is open
Noonday Gun, fired daily THE RACECOURSE at Happy all year except in July and
since the 1840s and retained Valley crackles with ner- August. Happy Valley’s small
as a charity fund-raising vous energy during the Wed- Racing Museum details Hong
event. The enclosure housing nesday race nights, as tens of Kong’s racing history.
the gun opens for half an thousands of eager gamblers
hour after noon, where a Hong Kong Zoo-
small plaque explains the logical & Botanical
origins of the tradition, Gardens 5

HAPPY VALLEY RACES Albany Road. Map 2 B4. § (0852)
2530 0154. q Central. @ 3B, 12,
Hong Kong’s punters are crazy about horse racing. A single 12A, 12M. Zoo # 6am–7pm daily.
race at Happy Valley or at Sha Tin in the New Territories, Gardens # 6am–10pm daily.
often attracts more bets than an entire week of racing in
Britain, and in 2003, the turnover totalled HK$71,000 millon, OPPOSITE Hong Kong Park,
an incredible sum by any standard. The government collects just across Cotton Tree
significant tax revenues from the races, and although revenue Drive, lie the Zoological and
has always been lost to illegal betting syndicates, the advent Botanical Gardens established
of internet gambling increased losses by almost 10 percent. in 1864. The gardens house
dozens of exotic animals such
A thrilling finish at Happy Valley Race Course as lemurs, orangutans, and
the world’s largest collection
of red-cheeked gibbons,
while its aviaries have a
colorful collection of birds.
Hundreds of plants, including
some ancient trees, provide
welcome shade in this oasis
of quiet. There is also a
playground, some sculptures
and fountains.

312 THE SOUTH

Victoria Peak 6

COOLING SEA BREEZES, shaded woodland walks and . Peak Circuit
spectacular views of the city, harbor and outlying This flat 2-mile (3-km) circuit
islands make the Peak an unmissable Hong Kong offers breathtaking views over
experience. Ever since colonial days, the Peak has been Victoria Harbour to the
the place to live in the city. Governors and rich merchants north, and Aberdeen and
built houses here in the mid-1800s to escape the worst of Lamma Island to the south.
the summer heat and humidity. The Peak’s inhabitants
were hauled up the sheer slopes in sedan chairs and
numerous Chinese had to be employed to lug supplies to
the mansions. When the Peak Tram (actually a funicular
railway) was built in 1888, the trip was slashed from an
hour’s slog to a pleasant, if alarmingly steep, 10-minute
ride. Despite the new accessibility, Chinese were
excluded from buying real estate on the Peak well into
modern times. Today, anyone with the means can acquire
these properties – among the world’s most expensive.

Governor’s Walk LUGARD ROAD
winds from the garden
to Harlech Road. It
tends to be overgrown
and slippery.

GOVERNOR’S WALK

Victoria Peak Garden VICTORIA PEAK
A steep trudge towards the summit leads to GARDEN
these well-manicured gardens, which were
once part of the Governor’s Lodge (destroyed HARLECH ROAD
after World War II). Sadly, the summit is
fenced off and houses telephone masts.

Pok Fu Lam Reservoir POK FU LAM
This 3 mile (5 km) path descends through the peaceful RESERVOIR
woods of the Country Park and past the reservoir. It
emerges on Pok Fu Lam Road, where frequent buses STAR SIGHTS
head back to the city center.
. Peak Circuit
. The View
. The Peak Tram

HONG KONG 313

VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

The Peak Tower, 128 Peak Road.
Map 2 A5. § (0852) 2849 0668.
v Lower Peak Tram Terminal,
Garden Road. @ 15 from
Exchange Square; minibus 1 from
PLA Central Barracks on Harcourt
Road. ∑ www.thepeak.com.hk

. The View KEY
Equally stunning by day or night, the panorama of
harbor activity and high-rises is endlessly fascinating. To Victoria Peak Garden
Peak Circuit
Clouds and smoggy haze, however, often obscure To Pok Fu Lam Resevoir
the views; early mornings tend to be clearer. Old Peak Road to Central
Peak Tram

This old route to Central 0 meters 300
is pleasantly shaded but 0 yards 300
unrelentingly steep. To
THE Yuping
PEAK Feng avoid the busy traffic near
the bottom, detour onto
1,811 ft Tregunter Path.
(552m)

MOUNT AUSTIN ROAD K ROA
OLD PEA
D

VICTORIA The Peak Tower
GAP This imposing mall at the tram
terminus contains several shops,
Madame Tussauds, the Ripley’s Believe
It or Not! Odditorium (see p333), as
well as many cafés with views.

POK FU LAM RESERVOIR ROAD

Peak Galleria
houses pleasant
shops and cafés.

. The Peak Tram
A commuter line with one of the best
safety records in the world, the Peak

Tram has been trundling up the
hair-raisingly steep 27º incline

between St. John’s Cathedral and
Victoria Gap for over a century.

314 THE SOUTH

Lan Kwai Fong 7 Hollywood Road 9

Central. Map 2 B3. q Central. Central. Map 2 B3. q Central,
then Escalator.
IT IS ONLY AT NIGHT that
Lan Kwai Fong (“Orchid THE MANY antique shops here
Square”) really starts to buzz, no longer offer the bargains
attracting office workers, they once did, but Hollywood
including plenty of city suits,
to its many bars, clubs, and Road still has shops selling
restaurants. It houses some of
the trendiest pubs and ancient ceramics, mammoth
entertainment hangouts in
Hong Kong, and the street ivory carvings, and delicate
is especially packed with
revelers on Fridays and snuff bottles. The stalls on
Saturdays, although most
places remain open until Upper Lascar Row are a good
late throughout the week.
The partying spills across hunting ground for antiques,
D’Aguilar Street to tiny Wing
Wah Lane’s bars and good- old coins, and kitsch. Haggling
value Thai, Malay, and Indian
restaurants, most of which is acceptable here. Some home
have outdoor dining spaces.
furnishings shops, located at
Crowds outside Lan Kwai Fong’s
many bars and clubs Entrance to The Escalator – an easy the eastern end, sell traditional

The Escalator 8 way to commute from Central items such as teardrop-shaped

Central. Map 2 B3. q Central. silk lampshades.
# 6am–midnight.
Escalator. Good Spring

Company, just beneath the Man Mo Temple 0
Escalator on Cochrane Street,

sells foul-tasting health tonics

from a brass urn. Inside, its

herbalist consultants, some of 126 Hollywood Rd. Map 2 A2.

whom speak English, can § (0852) 2540 0350. q Central,

tailor-make a brew for those then Escalator.

who are curious.

AIn the last few years, partly TMOSPHERIC Man Mo
Temple stands at the
following the completion of
the Escalator, SoHo has been corner of Ladder Street.

transformed from Inside its red and gold

a sleepy district into a interior, smoke curls

thriving entertainment from giant incense spirals

area. Elgin, Shelley, and hanging from the ceiling,

Staunton Streets are and flames in large brass

excellent places to find urns devour paper offerings

food and drink. A plaque to the dead, such as the

on Staunton Street marks ubiquitous Hell bank

the site of the house in notes. Built in 1847,

which Dr. Sun Yat Sen the temple was dedi-

(see p297), seen by Lion, Man cated to two deities,

many as China’s revolu- Mo Temple Man and Mo (the Gods

tionary forefather, met of Literature and War),

with fellow members of his believed to be real men –

society in the late 1890s. It the 3rd-century administrator

also marks a historical trail of Cheung Ah Tse and the

13 sites connected with him. 2nd-century soldier

ALL THE ROADS between Lighting a joss stick at Man Mo Temple
Queen’s Road and
Conduit Road are linked by a
2,598-ft (792-m) long string of
escalators. This is the longest
covered outdoor escalator
system in the world, and took
two-and-a-half years and
more than HK$205 million to
build. It is the best way to
commute between Central, the
Mid-Levels, and SoHo (South
of Hollywood Road). Several
bars, cafés, restaurants, and
market stalls cluster round the

HONG KONG 315

The city’s Star Ferry service – an unmistakable sight in Hong Kong

Kwan Wan Chung – who were feathered, finned or webbed Star Ferry w
deified by the emperors. Their
statues can be seen at the kind, is usually sold in the
back of the main chamber.
The temple served as a court- wet markets, while the fruit
house and community center
to the Chinese in the 19th and vegetable markets sell a
century, as an alternative to
adopting the alien policies wonderful selection of fruit Star Ferry Terminals: Central, Wan
followed by the British.
and typical Chinese fare, Chai & Kowloon. Map 2 C2, 3 F3,
Sheung Wan’s
Markets q including fresh, still-steaming 3 E1. § (0852) 2367 7065. &

Hong Kong Island. Map 2 A1. bean curd and tangy “1,000
q Sheung Wan.
Fyear eggs,” which are not, in EW ACTIVITIES IN Hong
THE SHORT stroll from Kong can compete with
Central’s slick modernity fact, that old, but given an
into the western district of aged look by the mineral earth the sheer excitement and
Sheung Wan feels like entering
a different city. Beneath the they are stored in. These places romance of jumping on
scruffy 1950s tenement
blocks, the area around are not to be missed, although these portly old 1960s ferries
Queen’s Road West and Wing
Lok Street teems with Chinese the squeamish may want to that chug ponderously
medicine and dried seafood
wholesalers. This is probably avoid the “wet” markets. between Kowloon and Hong
the world’s largest center for
the shark’s fin trade, an Kong Island. They are
exorbitantly priced delicacy,
usually used in soups. The by far the best and
piles of fins on view explain
why the world shark cheapest way to view
population is fast declining.
the city skyline by day
Apart from dried goods,
fresh produce is available or night. The main
in the many fruit, vegetable,
and “wet” markets dotted route links the
along the area between the
Escalator and Morrison Street. Kowloon peninsula
Live produce, of the
(just near the Clock

Tower) with the Star

Ferry Terminal at

Central, but it is also

possible to reach the

Convention Centre

and Wan Chai from

Kowloon aboard

these jolly green

boats. Touted as Hong

Kong Island’s most

dependable sight,

the Star Ferry service

was started by Mr.

Dorabjee Nowrojee,

a Parsi gentleman,

way back in 1898.

At that time, the only

people allowed on

first-class decks

were Europeans,

Fresh fruit piled high at a market in and a collar and tie

Sheung Wan were obligatory.

316 THE SOUTH

Hong Kong Science
Museum y

2 Science Museum Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui
East. Map 1 C3. § (0852) 2732
3232. Q Tsim Sha Tsui. # 1pm–

9pm Mon–Wed & Fri, Sat, 10am–7pm
Sun & public hols. & free Wed. ∑

www.lcsd.gov.hk/CE/Museum/Science

Forecourt of the Hong Kong Cultural Centre AGREAT destination for
children, the Science
Tsim Sha Tsui calligraphy. Exquisite craft- Museum is packed with
Waterfront e ware from Southern China fun interactive displays on its
and Asia fills the second floor. four floors that detail basic
Kowloon. Map 1 B5. Q Tsim Sha Also on display are more than scientific principles, including
Tsui. g Star Ferry. n Star Ferry 3,000 objects in ceramics, electricity and gravity, and
Concourse. Hong Kong Cultural jade, bronze, lacquer, enamel, how weather systems such as
Centre 10 Salisbury Rd, glass, ivory, as well as tornados are formed. There
(0852) 2734 2009. furniture and fine porcelain. are also good displays on
technology, which demon-
Nathan Road t strate the workings of various
types of machinery ranging
THE TSIM SHA TSUI waterfront from the combustion engine
is a popular tourist desti- to computer chips, as well as
nation with some of the ritziest Kowloon. Map 1 B4. Q Tsim Sha Tsui. robotics and virtual reality.

arcades, museums, and hotels Model of a DNA molecule at the
Hong Kong Museum of Science
in the city. The Star Ferry (see ALSO KNOWN AS the Golden
p315) docks are also located Mile on its lower reaches, Hong Kong Museum
of History u
here. East of the pier is the Nathan Road is Kowloon’s
100 Chatham Road South, Tsim Sha
Hong Kong Cultural main transport artery. Running Tsui East. Map 1 C3. § (0852) 2724
9042. Q Tsim Sha Tsui. # 10am–
Centre, which houses halls, north through the center of the 6pm Mon & Wed–Sat, 1pm–6pm Sun
& most public hols. & free Wed.
theaters, and galleries. peninsula, it is bright, busy, ∑ www.lcsd.gov.hk/hkmh

Adjacent to the Centre and packed with ho- THE PURSUIT OF profit and the
resulting change of pace
is the Space tels and shops. The in much of Hong Kong has
eroded most of its historical
Museum, ideal for term Golden Mile, and cultural heritage. The

children with its however, flatters

interactive exhibits the area – far more

beneath a golf-ball glitzier enclaves can

dome. There are be found in Central.

new attractions – Neon sign, Nonetheless, a stroll

the Avenue of Stars Nathan Road along Nathan Road is

honoring the city’s film one of the essential

greats and an Observation Hong Kong experiences for its

Wheel for views of its skyline. crowds of shoppers and work-

ers, the tangle of neon signage,

Hong Kong the ever-present tailoring
shops, and the mixture of

Museum of Art r smart hotels, Cantonese
canteens, and grim guest-

house tenement blocks, such

as the notorious Chungking

10 Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui. Mansions, nightmare of many

Map 1 B5. § (0852) 2721 0116. a backpacker. The road’s far

Q Tsim Sha Tsui. g Star Ferry. northern end offers glimpses

# 10am–6pm Fri–Wed. & free of the past. Here, the ramrod

Wed. ∑ www.lcsd.gov.hk/hkma straight Boundary Street still

marks the line of the 1860

THE MUSEUM OF ART is border, the year Britain forced
renowned for its China to cede Kowloon to

exhibitions of traditional accommodate the burgeoning

Chinese watercolors and island colony.

HONG KONG 317

excellent Museum of History birds. Some bird lovers can
shows what the region looked be seen feeding their birds
like before the skyscrapers grasshoppers through the
arrived. Walk around replicas cage with chopsticks.
of traditional villages, street
blocks, and shops or linger Wong Tai Sin
over fascinating displays of Temple p
old photographs. There is also
a display of Bronze Age Wong Tai Sin, Kowloon. § (0852)
daggers, pottery, and 2328 0270. Q Wong Tai Sin.
arrowheads found on Lamma # 7am–5:30pm daily.
and Lantau Islands (see
pp324–5), and a fun exhibit
on toys made in Hong Kong.

Temple Street & Caged song birds for sale at the THE TEMPLE AT Wong Tai Sin
Jade Markets i Bird Market in Mong Kok is one of Hong Kong’s
largest, busiest, and most
Yau Ma Tei. Map 1 B2. Q Jordan or Bird & Flower interesting places of worship.
Yau Ma Tei. Markets o The complex contains altars
and shrines to Buddhist,
HAGGLING IS AN essential Flower Market Road, Mong Kok, Confucian, and Daoist deities.
skill at the Temple Street Kowloon. Q Prince Edward. It is primarily dedicated to the
night market, which only god Wong Tai Sin, a shepherd
livens up after 8pm. Although THE BIRD AND FLOWER markets reputed to have performed
cheaper bargains are available are less frenetic and more healing miracles. Beside the
elsewhere, the atmosphere remote than Temple Street, but main temple are fortune
and range of items, including they are well worth a visit. tellers, some of whom can
fake designer labels, shoes, Colorful blooms and clever reveal your fortune for a hefty
Mao memorabilia, and pirated bamboo creations line Flower fee in English, mostly through
DVDs, are unbeatable. Adding Market Road, just north of palm and face reading. Some
to the experience are fortune Prince Edward Road West. worshipers try to divine what
tellers, Cantonese operas, and Located at the end of Flower lies in store for them
food vendors. The market Market Road is the small Bird by shaking small canisters
snakes north from Ning Po Market with a few stalls selling of bamboo sticks, until one
Street to Man Ming Lane. The elegant cages, food, and song emerges from the stack. Each
day-time Jade Market is a is marked with a numeral and
good place to pick up a corresponding meaning.
inexpensive trinkets, although Also used are bui or “Buddha’s
cheaper jade can be found in lips,” two pieces of wood
Guangzhou (see pp298–9), shaped like orange-segments.
and elsewhere in China. A question is asked, the bui
are thrown, and the “lips”
answer yes or no, depending
on which way they land.

Wong Tai Sin Temple, one of Hong Kong’s busiest places of worship





320 THE SOUTH

Sai KungTown &
Peninsula Beaches d

New Territories. q to Choi Hung
station then taxi or bus 92 to Sai
Kung Town.

IT MAY SEEM incredible,
but just a few miles from
Kowloon’s bustling streets,

it is possible to find empty

beaches, clear surf, and

seclusion on the shores of the

Life-size Buddhas, 10,000 Buddhas Monastery rugged Sai Kung Peninsula.

The area is best accessed via

Heritage Museum a KCR station. Cross the road Sai Kung Town, a pleasant
and follow the clear signposts place to wander among the

to the temple, which is at the stalls selling fish near the sea-

1 Man Lam Rd, Sha Tin, New top of the wooded hill. The front, and to eat at the profu-
Territories. £ Sha Tin KCR, then free
shuttle bus or bus 68A. § (0852) main temple houses sion of seafood restaurants.
2180 8188. # 10am–6pm Tue–Sun. hundreds of tiny golden Some of the most
& ∑ www.heritagemuseum.gov.hk Buddhas which line
shelves reaching up to pristine beaches on the
the ceiling. There are peninsula can be found
at Tai Long Wan, where

more Buddha images there is a small village

THIS EXCELLENT, modern outside, including and a couple of cafés
museum tells the story of one astride a giant and shops. The best way

Hong Kong’s 6,000 year-old white elephant and to reach this secluded

human history. The largest of another on top of a spot is to take bus 94

the city’s museums, it has six huge dog. Still more from Sai Kung Town to

permanent exhibitions and statues peep from the Pak Tam Au, part of

plenty of space for special monastery’s bright- the Maclehose Trail

temporary shows. The New red, nine-story (see p321), and then

Territories Heritage Hall pagoda. The small Pagoda, hike to Tai Long Wan.

illustrates prehistoric human annex above the main 10,000 Buddhas A reasonable level of

life, the rise of village society, temple contains the fitness is required and

colonial rule and the large- embalmed body of the remember to take along a good

scale development of the New temple’s founding monk, map and plenty of fluids.

Territories towns. There is also covered in gold leaf and Much shorter and flatter

a display on Cantonese opera, placed in a glass case. woodland walks start at

which explains the elaborate

ritual and color symbolism

involved and contains

exquisitely-crafted costumes.

Beautiful calligraphy scrolls

hang from the second floor.

The Children’s Discovery

Gallery on the ground floor is

a colorful, fun look at Hong

Kong’s natural habitat.

10,000 Buddhas
Monastery s

Sha Tin, New Territories. £ Sha Tin
KCR. # 9am–5pm daily.

RUBY-LIPPED, life-size golden The emerald waters and beaches of the Sai Kung Peninsula
Buddhas line the steep
path up to the Temple of
the 10,000 Buddhas, a
15-minute walk from the
northern exit of the Sha Tin

Central’s glittering skyscrapers, with Wan Chai and Causeway Bay beyond

HONG KONG 321

Pak Tam Chung Visitor species. Pollution has taken
Centre. Maps are available its toll elsewhere along the
here for numerous walks, Pearl River Delta, making this
including a worthwhile nature 940-acre (380-ha) park the
trail. Take a taxi or bus 94. last refuge for many species.
Apart from herons and egrets,
Alternatively, hire a kaido, a otters and the very rare black-
small ferry, from Sai Kung faced spoonbills can be seen.
Town for a tour of the many There are numerous bird hides
small islands. It is easy to find for keen bird-watchers. Contact
eager operators near the jetty, HKTB (see p333) for details
although without speaking on guided weekend tours. A
Cantonese, travelers will need 158-acre (64-ha) area has
a map to point out where been set aside for the Hong
they would like to go, as Kong Wetland Park, slated
most of the operators don’t to open at the end of 2005.
speak English.
Maclehose Trail h
Walled Villages f

Fanling, New Territories. £ Fanling Interior shrine, Fung Ying Sin New Territories. Tai Mo Shan
Koon Temple
KCR, then 54K minibus. taxi from Tsuen Wan MTR.
make offerings of incense and
ONE OF THE BEST ways to get fruit to their chosen deity. Government Publications Centre
a flavor of pre-colonial Another chamber contains the § (0852) 2537 1910.
times in the New Territories ashes of the dead, stored in
area is to walk along the Lung letterbox-sized holes in the STRUNG EAST–WEST across
Yuek Tau Heritage Trail near wall. Given the sombre mood the middle of the New
Fanling, beginning at the of this temple, it is best to Territories, this 62-mile (100-
Tang Chung Ling Ancestral keep cameras packed away. km) route takes in huge, wild
Hall. One of the largest in the and high areas from Tuen
region, this well-maintained t Fung Ying Sin Koon Mun in the west to the lovely
building has an ornate roof Sai Kung Peninsula in the east.
and dates back to 1525. Fanling, New Territories. £ Fanling Divided into 10 manageable
Owned by the Tangs, one of KCR. # 9am–5pm daily. ^ stages, it is possible to walk for
the five great New Territories long stretches without seeing a
clans, members still worship, Mai Po Marshes g soul. One of the most scenic
pay respects to ancestors, and sections takes in Tai Mo Shan,
hold celebrations at the hall. New Territories. § (0852) 2471 Hong Kong’s highest peak with
6306. £ Sheung Shui KCR then views, on a clear day, down to
The Heritage Trail passes the 76K bus or taxi. Permits deposit & the distant city. The far eastern
five wais (walled villages) and advanced booking required. 8 on stage is also very beautiful,
six tsuens (villages) built by weekends. & concluding at Tai Long Wan’s
clan members within a mile of lovely beaches (see p320).
each other. They are in WEDGED BETWEEN Hong Sturdy shoes, fluids, and
various states of repair, from Kong and the urban maps (from the Government
dilapidated ruin to pristine sprawl of Shenzhen, this Publications Centre) are
walled compound. Keep in globally important wetland is essential. The record for
mind that some wais are still home to a range of wildife completing the trail is under
home to several clan families. 13 hours as part of the Annual
One of the better-preserved Trailwalker Charity Race.
wais is Lo Wai Far. Another
interesting wai, Tong Kok, is A scenic waterway in Mai Po Marshes
just a couple of minutes’ walk
north of the Ancestral Hall
and has dozens of houses
including modern buildings.
The entire trail can be covered
in an hour or two. Signposting
is rather patchy, but there is a
detailed map of the trail
outside the ancestral hall.

A short walk west of the
Fanling KCR station is the
modern Daoist temple of Fung
Ying Sin Koon, dedicated to
the deities representing the
Chinese Zodiac signs. People

322 THE SOUTH

A traditional fishing boat moored in Aberdeen’s bustling harbor

Aberdeen j however, it makes up for in Restaurant. The first and
bustle and atmosphere. The most famous of the floating
Hong Kong Island. @ 7 or 70 from boat-filled harbor is the big restaurants, it is a massive,
Central. attraction in Aberdeen as it is palatial hulk that is part Las
the center of all activity. Many Vegas-style casino and part
ONCE A QUIET fishing of the boats found here are Chinese temple. Eating here is
village, Aberdeen is today actually part-time residences a fun experience, although the
the largest separate town on for Hong Kong’s fishermen restaurants on the islands of
Hong Kong Island with a and their families; so much so Lamma and Cheung Chau (see
population of more than that the district still has the p324) offer better seafood.
60,000. Named in 1845 after characteristics of a traditional
the British Colonial Secretary, fishing village. Tiny sampans Ocean Park k
the Earl of Aberdeen, the dodge among the wooden
harbor housed Hong Kong’s fishing fleet and the large, 180 Wong Chuk Road, Aberdeen.
first dockyard, which was palatial floating restaurants. § (0852) 2552 0291. @ Ocean Park
built in the 1860s. Pushy operators on the City Bus from Central’s Star Ferry Pier
waterfront offer tours by or 6A, 6X, 70, 75, 90, 97, or 260. &
A short bus ride from sampan that take visitors # 10am–6pm daily.
Central (see p310), the past the fishing boats, the ∑ www.oceanpark.com.hk
Aberdeen district has a rather houseboats, and small harbor-
unattractive town center, side shipyards. WITH THE ARRIVAL of a mega
edged by massive, high-rise competitor in the shape
apartment blocks, commercial Alternatively, for a quicker of Lantau Island’s Disneyland
towers, and factories. What it (and free) tour, jump aboard (see p325), Ocean Park, Hong
lacks in aesthetic appeal, the shuttles to the floating Kong’s first amusement park,
restaurants moored here, such has fought back with new
as the Jumbo Floating attractions. It is much better
than it ever was, although it
The garish Jumbo Floating Restaurant lights up Aberdeen Harbour will be hard pressed to
compete with the might of
Disney. There is plenty to do
for adults and children alike,
and it’s easy to spend a day
exploring the seven themed
areas of this pleasant
complex. The Lowland
Gardens area is one of the
most enjoyable sections, with
a butterfly house, and, the
theme park’s pride, two giant
pandas, An An and Jia Jia.

HONG KONG 323

A scenic cable car skirts the The popular beach at the seaside town of Stanley
edge of Deepwater Bay,
dropping passengers in Up-market apartment blocks, Stanley x
Marine Land. Here, a large inhabited by Hong Kong’s
and impressive aquarium business elite, surround the Hong Kong Island. @ 6, 6A, 6X, 260
captivates visitors with close- long, well-tended beach at
up views of schools of fish Repulse Bay. The beach is a from Exchange Square bus station.
and an underwater tunnel popular summer destination ( 10am–6:30pm daily.
through a tank of sharks. Bird and gets very crowded in
Paradise has over 1,000 birds season and on weekends. The THIS PRE-COLONIAL fishing
in its aviaries, including flocks pricey Verandah Restaurant – village today resembles
of flamingos. Numerous the only surviving section of a British seaside town, com-
thrilling rides are found the stately Repulse Bay Hotel, plete with English-style pubs.
throughout the grounds, with which was torn down in the The extensive sprawl of
Kids World supplying tamer 1980s – is a good place for a market stalls selling clothes,
rides for youngsters. drink or afternoon tea. Just beachwear, silk, jade, trinkets,
behind the Verandah is a and furniture draws weekend
Deep Water & supermarket for picnic crowds. The area also has a
Repulse Bays l supplies, and a few cafés. good selection of Thai,
Italian, Spanish, Vietnamese,
Hong Kong Island. Hong Kong Life and Chinese restaurants.
@ 6, 6A, 61, 260, 262 from Saving Society z
Exchange Square bus station. Beside the square is
Repulse Bay, Hong Kong Island. Murray House, a large, Neo-
SEVERAL GOOD beaches line # 7am–7pm daily. Classical building, housing
these two scenic bays some fine restaurants with
located along the road from AT THE FAR southern end of bay views. Dismantled and
Aberdeen to Stanley. Deep Repulse Bay is the Hong rebuilt here in 1998, it
Water Bay is a pretty spot Kong Lifeguards’ Club. The originally stood on the site
favored by the wealthy, with building also serves as a now occupied by the Bank of
many luxurious houses. The temple, and is a great place China tower in Central. Next
long stretch of beach lined by for children to explore. Garish to it Tin Hau Temple, built
cypress-like trees is reminis- statues – a menagerie of gods, in 1767, is one of the island’s
cent of the French Riviera. animals, and mythical beasts oldest and most evocative
– are scattered across the shrines. The festival of Tin
Colossal statue of goddess grounds in amongst the life- Hau (see p45) is celebrated in
Guanyin, Repulse Bay saving equipment. Among the late April or early May with
gods is a large statue of dances and boat races.
Guanyin, the Boddhisattva of
Mercy, to whom the temple is On the other side of town
dedicated. Several other gods is the beautifully kept Stanley
are represented, including a Cemetery, dating to the
number of smiling bronze earliest colonial days. It
Buddhas. Rubbing their bald contains the gravestones of
heads is said to bring good early residents and soldiers
luck. Some believe that killed in World Wars I and II,
crossing the Bridge of including those who died in
Longevity also adds three the Japanese concentration
days to a person’s life. camp built nearby. Stanley
Beach, on the other side of
the peninsula, is a long stretch
of sand and the venue for the
local dragon boat races.

324 THE SOUTH

Lantau Island b

g from Central (pier 6) to Mui Wo
(Silvermine Bay).

Lamma Island, with hilltop views of the sea and Hong Kong Island TWICE THE size of Hong Kong
Island, Lantau was ceded to
Lamma Island c its beaches to exploring the the British in 1898 along with
traditional shops and shrines the other islands and the New
g from Central (pier 4). along its narrow lanes and Territories. Despite the recent
eating at the many seafood addition of a new bridge and
GOOD SEAFOOD restaurants places at the harbor’s edge the huge Chek Lap Kok
and pubs, a relaxed on Pak She Praya Road. The airport, large tracts of the island
atmosphere, pleasant hilltop squid with shrimp paste is a still remain largely uninhabited,
walks, and the absence of cars local speciality. The southern including two country parks in
make leafy, low-key Lamma coast offers the best walks, which are the peaks that form
the perfect escape from the with fine sea views and the island’s backbone and
city bustle. Its two main woodland pathways threading numerous hiking trails.
villages, Yung Shue Wan on past colonial mansions.
the west coast and restaurant- Lantau’s seclusion has made
packed Sok Kwu Wan on the The island’s earliest settlers it a popular place for religious
east coast, are a half-hour ferry lived here some 2,500 years retreats. The most striking of
ride from Central. Yung Shue ago; their only surviving relics these is Po Lin Monastery,
Wan is an expat stronghold are the geometric etchings on located on a hilltop on the
with two or three English-style the rocks below Warwick Ngong Ping plateau. The
pubs and some good Chinese Hotel (see pXXX). In the 19th-
and Western restaurants. A century, the island was a Tai O Fishing Village
steep climb leads to the hills haven for pirates, where the Traditional stilt houses
above Yung Shue Wan, where notorious Cheung Po-Tsai cluster on the muddy
there are fine views of the sea supposedly hid plunder. The banks of the small estuary
and Hong Kong Island. Visitors fishing community is depleted at this rural fishing
can hike on the path between today due to excessive fishing settlement.
the two villages, but should over the past 50 years.
plan their walk around the Tai O
infrequent return ferry from Close to the harbor, the
Sok Kwu Wan. En route are 1783 Pak Tai Temple is •
signposts to the Kamikaze dedicated to the island’s
Caves, on the outskirts of Sok patron deity, who is credited
Kwu Wan, where, during with saving islanders from the
World War II, a fleet of speed- plague in 1777. The annual
boats packed with explosives Bun Festival (see p333) is
intended for British ships was celebrated here in May, when
hidden, but never used. young men scale 26-ft (8-m)
towers made entirely of buns.

Shek
Reser

Cheung Chau
Island v

g from Central (pier 5). _ Bun
Festival (May).

THIS CHARMING island, just a Colorful sampans and fishing 0 kilometers 2 2
half-hour by ferry from boats in Cheung Chau harbor 0 miles
Hong Kong Island, has plenty
to offer, from paddling near

HONG KONG 325

monastery grounds are grand The Big Buddha at Po Lin dried fish, the local speciality.
and colorful, and the over- Monastery To the west of the island,
the-top, gaudy main temple
is well worth a visit. The Big trading center, today the old Discovery Bay is the starting
Buddha, an 85-ft (26-m) statue saltpans are being used as point for a gentle walk to a
perched at the top of a 268- fish-breeding ponds. Tai O Trappist Monastery. Its chapel
step flight of stairs, is the has a few temples and many is open to visitors willing to
monastery’s biggest draw. shops selling live seafood and observe the vow of silence
Since the Buddha’s consecra- taken by the monks.
tion in 1993, the monastery has
been overrun with tourists. Lantau’s newest attraction,
There are also bauhinia and the multi-billion dollar Hong
orchid gardens and basic vege- Kong Disneyland, is modeled
tarian food in two canteens. after the original Disneyland
in California, and the 311-acre
The area around Ngong (126-ha) area includes a park
Ping is also a great place for featuring Mickey Mouse and
walks and picnics. Keen hikers his friends, as well as original
stay at the SG Davis Youth attractions designed especially
Hostel before making a pre- for Hong Kong, themed-hotels,
dawn hike up Lantau Peak to and a retail and dining center.
watch the spectacular sunrise.
t Ngong Ping & The Big
At the island’s western end, Buddha
the sleepy fishing village of
Tai O has narrow streets and @ Bus 2. Also taxi or (from end 2005),
tiny residences reminiscent of
rural China. Once a major salt cable car from Tung Chung MTR.

g Disneyland

q Yam O MTR to Penny’s Bay station.

By 2006, Tung Chung Hong Kong Disneyland is
should be connected to
Po Lin Monastery by a built on reclaimed land, which Yam O
4-mile (6-km) cable car.
was once Penny’s Bay. •

Hong Kong k
International

Airport

Tung Discovery Bay Discovery Bay is a
Chung •g slightly surreal dormitory
community, where
• g residents get about in
• Mui Wo golf buggies. A jet ferry
•Ngong Ping connects to Central.

Po Lin Lin Fa Shan Mui Wo, the island’s
• Monastery main pier, has several
Tai Tung Shan restaurants and bars
Lantau Pui O as well as a beach.
Peak
•

Pik • •
voir
Cheung Chi Ma Wan
Sha Cheung Sha’s clean, sandy
Peninsula and often deserted beach, is
one of Hong Kong’s best.
•

Tong Fuk

Lantau Peak KEY
The only way up this
3,065-ft (934-m) high k International airport
peak is via a steep path g Ferry
through tea gardens.
It is an ideal spot for National highway
watching the sunrise. Major road
Minor road
Railroad

326 THE SOUTH

Macau n converted into barracks until it

was destroyed by a fire in

1835. Only extensive structural

AN HOUR BY FERRY FROM Hong Kong, Macau is a perfect work in the 1990s stopped the
place to spend a day strolling around the old town façade from crumbling. The
and dining in one of its many excellent restaurants. Its attached museum houses
main draws are 24-hour gambling and its indigenous paintings, sculptures, and relics
cuisine, a fusion of Chinese and Portuguese flavors. from Macau’s churches.

Macau owes its unique heritage to Western colonial P The Old Protestant
influences. Predating Hong Kong by 200 years, it Cemetery
became the first European enclave in China when
Praca Luis de Camões.

Portuguese traders and Jesuits arrived here in the # 9am–6pm daily.

1500s. The colony remained under Portuguese rule for The gravestones at this
cemetery at the corner of the
450 years until it was handed back to China in 1999. The Camões Gardens are
adjacent islands of Taipa and Coloane, linked by bridges crammed with fascinating
to Macau, also feature some fine restaurants. The local historical details that give
currency, the pataca, is worth roughly the same as the some wonderful insights into
Hong Kong dollar, which is also widely accepted here. the lives led by early colonists.

Many of them were Britons,

P Ruinas de São Paulo who traded, married, or

Rua de São Paulo. § (0853) 358 fought in and around Macau

444. # 9am–6pm daily. before Hong Kong was

All that is left of this established as a

once grand British territory.

cathedral, built by Among the notable

the Jesuits and people buried here

perched precar- are Robert Morrison,

iously atop a steep the first Protestant

flight of steps, is its missionary to

magnificent, venture to China,

crumbling façade. and the artist

Its most outstanding George Chinnery.

Historic cannons on the ramparts features are the The gravestones

of Fortaleza do Monte ornate figures on speak of short

the façade, com- but heroic lives,

P Fortaleza do Monte prising a “sermon in Gravestone, Old such as that of the
stone” that records Protestant Cemetery brave Lieutenant
Rua de Monte. # May–Sep: 6am–

7pm; Oct–Apr: 7am–6pm daily. some of the main Fitzgerald killed

Macau Museum Praceta do Museu events from the Christian after “gallantly storming” a

de Macao, No 112. § (0853) 357 scriptures. gun battery at Canton (now

911. # 10am–6pm Tue–Sun. & The cathedral was built by Guangzhou). The inscription

Built in 1616, this fortress Japanese Christian converts, on Robert Morrison’s tomb

housed the original Portuguese who fled to Macau in the 16th states that he produced the

settlement at Macau. Its thick century following religious first Chinese version of the

ramparts, surmounted by repression. In the 18th century, Old and New Testaments. The

ancient cannons, still occupy a Macau also expelled the adjoining Camões Gardens

commanding position and Jesuits, and the building was are named after the renowned

appear as invincible as they Portuguese poet Luis Vaz de

did in 1622, when the invading Camões, the author of the

Dutch forces were defeated. 16th-century epic The Lusiads.

Dug into the hill beneath the

fort is the impressively P Guia Fort & Lighthouse

informative Macau Museum. Estrada de Cacilhas.

Its escalators and stairs provide # 9am–5:30pm.

an air-conditioned route to the The Guia Lighthouse was

hill-top fortress passing through built in 1637, and offers great

entertaining re-creations of views over the town. Initially

Portuguese and Chinese life. it served as a fort to defend

Beginning with the arrival of the border with China, but in

Portuguese traders and Jesuit 1865 a lighthouse was added.

missionaries, the chrono- A pleasant way to get here is

logical exhibitions compare to take the cable car to the

the two cultures at the time hilltop. A small chapel stands

of contact and go on to cover next door and there are

the development of Macau The magnificent façade of the several gentle walking trails

and its unique traditions. Ruinas de São Paulo around the hill.

MACAU 327

Colonial façade on Largo do Senado sui and the mahjong- VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
style pai kao.
P Hotel Lisboa Gambling is Macau’s * 448,000. k Taipa Island,
lifeblood, contributing about a mile (2 km) South. g
2–4 Avenida de Lisboa. more than half the
§ (0853) 577 666. government’s revenue. Macau Ferry Terminal, Avenida
Much of it is controlled
Resembling an architect’s rendi- by the business Amizade (ferries to Hong Kong);
tion of a pineapple on the out- tycoon Dr. Stanley Ho,
side and a 1970s nightclub on owner of the Lisboa Pier 14, off Rua das Lorchas
the inside, the Lisboa includes and much of Macau.
a large complex of casinos, Macau also hosts horse (ferries to Shenzhen &
restaurants, and the semi-risqué racing, held twice a Guanzhou). c n 9 Largo de
“Crazy Paris” cabaret show. week, and greyhound
There is the usual array of slot racing, four times a Senado, (0853) 315 566.
machines, blackjack, baccarat, week (see p332). _ Macau Arts Festival (Mar).
roulette, and keno (bingo), as ∑ www.macautourism.gov.mo
well as some Chinese games, P Largo do Senado
including the dice game dai The symbolic heart of P Praia Grande
Macau, the Largo do Perhaps the best way to get a
Senado or Senate flavor of Macau’s colonial
Square has numerous architecture is to take a stroll
stately colonial buildings set on the Avenida de Praia
around it, including the Leal Grande. Although land
Senado or Loyal Senate, which reclamation has encroached
now houses the municipal on the waterfront and robbed
government, the General Post the Praia Grande of some of
Office, and the Santa Casa de its elegance, it is still a
Misericordia, an old refuge for charming place with many
orphans and prostitutes. There grand houses still in excellent
are also numerous restaurants condition. The monument to
and the tourist office. The Jorge Alvares, the first Portu-
striking, wavy black and white guese explorer to reach China,
tile patterns snaking across stands near the corner of
the square make it a great Avenida do Dr. Mario Soares.
place to take photographs by One of the most handsome
day or floodlit by night. buildings is the old Governor’s
Residence. Although it is not
open to the public as it is a
private residence, a good view
can be had from the road.

COLINA DE AVE. DA PONTE DA AMIZADE

MACAU CITY CENTER AV MONG-HA PEREIRA PREUSCAADDOOSRES
VEE .CDOES
E. DO CORONE
Fisherman’s Wharf w tA
Fortaleza do Monte 1
Guia Fort & Lighthouse 4 F EARVRRE. .EDI.DARAR.V.OACED.OCEDSDEOTFARNASCALEANBLMCIREHSAIECLIDORAXOAVIERLMESQUITA
Hotel Lisboa 5
Largo do Senado 6 HO RTA Reservatório
Macau Tower q TA d e Á g u a AMIZADE
Maritime Museum 9
Pousada São Tiago 0 RUADDOAPARTIBAENIREA E SIDPOANCISIOO LINA AVENIDA
Praia Grande 7 RUA DAS LORCHAS DA GUIA g Macau Ferry
Rua da Felicidade 8 Terminal
Ruinas de São Paulo 2
The Old Protestant Airport,Taipa &

Cemetery 3 3 Coloane Islands

4

21

Pier 14 8 n6ALMAEVIDE.A RIBEIRO AVARE.V.CEDIRDNOOAIDDDDREARI.DGDREUOASEIDSNARTMIRGAIOZADE R.DE w
AVE.MARGINAL
g HIENNFRAAINQVTUEEE. D. A VXEI N. XGI AHNAGI BERLIM
AVDE.'DA.SCSAURMLOPCSAO BAIA
c PONTE GOCVAERRVNAALHDOOR NOBRE DE
DA
R UL .APDESROÉRERIUAGRLIAAMODIMROAADRNRQ.T EU E S 5 7 5BaiaE . D A PRAIA GRANDECENRTURAAL NOVA

KEY P. da Praia
IO Grande
c Long distance
bus station N TR UO AN

g Ferry terminal A

n Tourist information t AV

9 R D A REP E. DR. SUN YATSE N
UB L I CA
t Temple SU.TBAIAAGRDROEAD A AVq Airport,Taipa &
0A V E . Coloane Islands
800
5 Church 0 meters 800

0 yards

328 THE SOUTH

P Rua da Felicidade
A variety of sweet scents waft
from the Rua da Felicidade or
“Street of Happiness,” where
tasty and colorful Macanese
biscuits and cakes are baked
and sold. The area once
teemed with brothels, hence its
somewhat ironically bestowed
name. Today, it is a charming,
cobbled street lined with small
eateries, which makes it a good
place for a quick lunch stop.

E Maritime Museum A scale model of a Chinese junk, Maritime Museum

Largo do Pagode da Barra 1. The chapel to São Tiago, tower provides a great view;
§ (0853) 595 481.
# 10am–5:30pm Wed–Mon. & Portugal’s patron saint of in fact, visitors can see Hong

Small-scale but interesting exhi- soldiers, remains to this day. Kong’s surrounding islands on
bits make this museum worth
a visit for insights into Macau’s The structure is more a rocky a clear day. It is, however, not
maritime past upon which its
wealth was built. Displays grotto than a smart hotel, the ideal place for those who
include models of Chinese
junks, Portuguese ships and which only adds to its charm. don’t like heights. Glass-sided
fishing boats, a mock Hakka
village (see p290), a dragon A natural spring runs elevators rocket visitors sky-
boat, and a small aquarium.
There are also motorized junk through the lobby and the wards, and the restaurants
rides around the harbor.
corridors are paved with and viewing galleries at the
P Pousada São Tiago
flagstones. Its rooms are top are also partially glass-
Avenida da Republica Fortaleza de
São Tiago da Barra.§ (0853) 378 traditionally decorated in bottomed. For the truly
111. ∑ www.saotiago.com.mo
Portuguese style, with dark adventurous, it is possible to
Well worth a visit for a drink
on the terrace, a night’s stay, wooden furniture and attrac- don overalls and a harness,
or a meal at its restaurant, this
tiny but enchanting hotel (see tive tiles. The hotel also runs and explore parts of the
p567) was once a fortress
hewn from the rock on which a good restaurant, Os Gatos. tower’s exterior with the
it stood in the 17th century.
adventure sports company,

P Macau Tower A.J. Hackett, which runs a

Largo da Torre de Macau. number of activities around

§ (0853) 933 339. the tower. These range

# 10am–9pm Mon–Fri, The modern from the relatively

9am–9pm Sat. Macau Tower sedate bungy trampo-

∑ www.macautower.mo lining to a dizzying

The Macau Tower, the penin- skywalk around the tower’s

sula’s most visible attraction, outer rim at a height of over

is 1,107 ft (338 m) high. The 764 ft (233 m).

Avenida da Republica, near the Pousada São Tiago P Fisherman’s Wharf

# 24 hours daily.

As themed complexes go, this
is one of the newest, largest,
and most technicolor in the
region. It occupies a total of
1 million sq ft (92,900 sq m) at
the outer harbor. The complex,
brainchild of tycoon Stanley
Ho, is built on newly reclaimed
land and is divided into three
areas. Dynasty Wharf, built in
Tang-dynasty style, is a massive
food mall. At East Meets West,
an artificial volcano erupts in
pyrotechnic display at night,
while inside are thrilling rides
in mine carts (think Indiana
Jones). The adjacent Children’s
Fort is specifically for families.
To see replicas of different
areas of the world with themed
restaurants and shops, go to
Legend Wharf. It also has a
marina for luxury yachts.

MACAU 329

Regional Food: Macau

WHEN THE PORTUGUESE arrived in Macau 450 years ago, the Flowering
peninsula was virtually uninhabited. They cooked using choi sum
Portuguese methods, but with local Chinese ingredients and
southeast Asian herbs and spices picked up from their other
outposts in Africa, Goa, Malacca, Indonesia, and Japan.
As the years went by, and links home were established,
some of the grander families stuck with Portuguese
recipes made with the traditionally correct ingredients,
while the less well-off incorporated more Cantonese-
style dishes and ingredients, and over time the two cuisines
fused together to form a separate Macanese cuisine.

(paprika sausage), rabbit, and OTHER INFLUENCES
saffron. Other non-Chinese
foods that are available are THE OTHER OBVIOUS change
bread, cakes, cheese, olives, to Cantonese cuisine is
and coffee. Macau is also the more generous use of
home to a well-developed herbs and spices: coriander
wine culture, and naturally and chilies in peri-peri dishes
almost all the wines on from Africa; fish sauce from
offer are Portuguese. These SE Asia; hot and spicy curries
are generally better quality from Goa; feijoada and
than on the mainland and sweet potatoes from Brazil;
even better value. tamarind from Malacca.

King prawns Coconut
milk
A selection of Cantonese Fish sauce
sweetmeats in a Macau shop Fresh chilies

PORTUGUESE

BACALHAU IS the most Bacalhau
famous Portuguese A selection of typical Macanese ingredients
ingredient. This dried
and salted cod is integral
to Iberian cookery and in
Macau is cooked in every
way possible. Distinguishing
other Portuguese influences
is difficult but good signs
include the liberal use of
olive oil, almonds, chorizo

REGIONAL DISHES AND SPECIALTIES Galinha Africana (African
Chicken) is so called perhaps
There are very few totally Cantonese-inspired because of its blackened col-
dishes in the Macanese cuisine. Tacho – oring. It is marinated in gar-
a winter casserole of beef, pork, lic, chilies, and coconut milk,
chicken and Chinese sausage is then roasted in a hot oven.
perhaps the most Cantonese of all
Macanese dishes. As expected,

Saffron bacalhau dishes feature prominently.
strands There are Bacalhau Guisado (Salted Cod

Stew), Bacalhau a Gomes de Sa (Salted
Cod in Gomes de Sa Style), and Pasteis de Bacalhau
(Salted Cod Cake) to name just a few. Other popular
dishes include Caril de Camarao (Shrimp Curry). There
are traditional Portuguese dishes like Caldo Verde
(Cabbage and Potato Stew) and Carne de Porco a
Algarvia (Braised Pork with Clams). At first sight, Pasteis
de Nata (Egg Tartlets) look the same as the Cantonese
ones in Hong Kong, but they taste quite different.

330 THE SOUTH

Shopping in Hong Kong & Macau also some good antique shops
in Macau (see pp326–9),
LABEL-MAD HONG KONG is a paradise for immediately to the south of
shoppers, and is jammed with the Ruinas de São Paulo.
opportunities to buy from swanky
designer boutiques in modern shopping ELECTRONICS, CAMERAS
malls to inexpensive street markets. It is a & COMPUTERS
competitive destination for some electronic
and computing items as well as good- TSIM SHA TSUI as well as the
quality, custom-made suits, shirts and rest of Kowloon are
cheongsams – the tight-fitting, traditional generally the places to head
Ceramic art, Chinese silk dresses. Visitors are unlikely to for electronics and
Tsim Sha Tsui to find good bargains, however, especially gadgetry. Once the bargain
basement of international
if comparing prices with those in China. electronics retail, Nathan
Hong Kong’s main advantage, though, is the sheer, Road is still packed with
unrivaled profusion of items on sale. Don’t be afraid to camera and electronics
haggle in markets and smaller stores, though prices are outlets, but prices aren’t as
usually fixed in smarter shops and department stores. competitive as they once
were. Be wary, as there are
MARKETS sprawling shopping malls. numerous tales of less-than-
Harbour City, with its honest vendors. If you plan to
STREET MARKETS are one of massive and recently shop here anyway, do your
the best bargain-hunting extended malls containing homework, make sure you
grounds in Hong Kong, as hundreds of individual shops, compare like for like, ask
long as you’re prepared to sift even dwarfes the big liners questions (ensuring that your
through the ever-present fake that dock near the Star Ferry purchase is compatible with
designer goods. The Temple at Tsim Sha Tsui in Kowloon. your home country’s voltage),
Street Night Market (see Across Victoria Harbour on and you may find a bargain.
p317) in Tsim Sha Tsui is Hong Kong Island, The
perhaps the most celebrated Landmark in Central and Star House, opposite the
for its atmosphere, its prices Pacific Place in Admiralty are bus terminal and the Star
and the range of accessories, the places to go to for Ferry at Tsim Sha Tsui, is
clothes, trinkets, and other designer clothing labels such convenient and contains
memorabilia. The Jade as Prada, Versace, and Zegna, about 20 computer boutiques
Market, near the night and super-chic consumables on its second floor. Farther
market, sells exactly what it from Vuitton, Bulgari, and north, the Mongkok
advertises. The market at Tiffany. Sogo at Causeway Computer Centre houses
Stanley (see p323), on Hong Bay (see p311) is another more retailers. Its prices are
Kong Island’s southern coast, mammoth department store, generally lower than other
is as much fun for the trip out while Island Beverley, stores, and visitors can try
on the dramatic winding roads nearby, crams hundreds of bargaining. However, if you
across the island. It is a good small outlets into its dozen or would like to keep your
place to shop for arts, crafts, so floors, and sells modish shopping more straight-
clothes, and accessories. street fashion. forward, the Fortress chain
stores are reasonably-priced
Western Market is a more ANTIQUES & JEWELRY and a safe bet for cameras
sedate place, located in the and handhelds. They will
western district of Sheung HOLLYWOOD ROAD (see p314) provide warranties and
Wan. Inside the handsome in Central is best for guidance on foreign voltages.
colonial-era building are antiques, and is full of
dozens of small stalls selling emporia selling everything CHINESE ARTS & CRAFTS
antiques, watches, chinoiserie, from huge terracotta tomb
and jade. The middle floor guards to delicate little snuff THERE’S LITTLE DOUBT that the
spills over with huge bolts of bottles. Established names wares on offer in Chinese
fabric in every color and include Honeychurch Arts & Crafts can be found at
stripe. Upstairs there is a Antiques specializing in a much cheaper price over the
good café serving excellent wooden carvings, bracelets, border, but it is a convenient
dim sum. and necklaces, Gorgeous Arts place to go to when buying
& Crafts, which stocks last-minute presents. The store
SHOPPING CENTERS, reasonable antique furniture, in Tsim Sha Tsui is packed with
MALLS & DEPARTMENT and Dragon Culture, offering silk goods, carvings, ceramics,
STORES a good selection of pottery, jade, and teapots. The Lok
bamboo carvings, and snuff Cha Tea Shop, just below
EVEN SEASONED department bottles. Gallery One is Hollywood Road in Central, is
store junkies can over- another good place to browse a cosy, friendly place, where
dose on the huge variety for antique jewelry. There are visitors can sample delicate
available in Hong Kong’s green and jasmine teas and
buy some exquisite traditional

HONG KONG & MACAU 331

teapots. Bargain teapots can Shanghai Tang in Central established names such as
also be found at Macau’s offers traditional Chinese David’s Shirts at the
Culture Club. For a modern clothes and home decor with Mandarin Oriental or the
take on Chinese style, the a contemporary twist. For renowned Sam’s Tailor, who
upmarket G.O.D. (Goods of Europeans who despair of has made elegant outfits for
Desire) chain offers smart inte- finding essentials in their size, an illustrious clientele. For
rior goods at reasonable prices. there is always the well- end-of-line designer bargains,
known British Marks & the small boutiques at the top
CLOTHES Spencer chain of stores. of the Pedder Building
(floors four and above), may
NEEDLESS TO SAY, the malls Party-goers may want to sift yield some big savings.
and department stores are through the stylish, modern
the best places for clothes. and retro street fashion Hong Kong’s markets are
However, Joyce is also a offerings at the independent awash with fake designer wear,
good destination for shoppers boutiques in King Wah whose quality and cut are often
seeking a large range of smart Building. Legendary for its far inferior to the real thing.
labels under one roof. Great tailors and shirt makers, Hong If looking for authentic labels,
value Gap-style clothing can Kong is still the place to it is best to avoid the street
be found at one of the many come. Take a chance with the markets altogether, and shop
Giordano stores in town. ever-present street stores in only at the larger department
Tsim Sha Tsui or go for stores and boutiques.

DIRECTORY Sogo Mongkok Giordano
Computer Centre
MARKETS 555 Hennessy Rd, Shop 4, Grd Floor,
Causeway Bay. 8a Nelson St, Mongkok. China Building,
Jade Market § (0852) 2833 8338. Q Mongkok. 29 Queen’s Rd Central.
Q Causeway Bay. § (0852) 2384 6823. Map 2 C3.
Kansu & Shanghai Sts, § (0852) 2921 2028.
Yau Ma Tei. Map 1 B1. ANTIQUES & Star House
# 10am–3:30pm daily. JEWELRY Joyce
3 Salisbury Rd. Map 1 A5.
Stanley Market Dragon Culture 18 Queen’s Rd Central.
TRADITIONAL Map 2 C3.
Stanley, Hong Kong Island. 231 Hollywood Rd, ARTS & CRAFTS § (0852) 2810 1120.
# 11am–6pm daily. Central.
Map 2 A2. Chinese Arts & King Wah Building
Temple Street § (0852) 2545 8098. Crafts
Night Market 628 Nathan Rd,
Gallery One Star House, 3 Salisbury Rd, Mongkok.
Temple St, Yau Ma Tei. Tsim Sha Tsui. Map 1 A5. Q Mongkok.
Map 1 B2. 31–33 Hollywood Rd, § (0852) 2735 4061.
# 6pm–midnight daily. Central. Map 2 B3. Marks & Spencer
§ (0852) 2545 6436. Culture Club
Western Market Ocean Terminal,
Gorgeous Arts & 390 & 398 Avenida Canton Rd. Map 1 A4.
Des Voeux Rd Central, Crafts Almeida Ribeiro, Macau. § (0852) 2926 3331.
Sheung Wan. Map 2 A2. § (0853) 921 811. Central Tower,
# 10am–7pm daily. Upper Ground Floor, 24–28 Queen’s Rd Central.
30 Hollywood Rd, G.O.D. Map 2 C3.
DEPARTMENT Central. Map 2 B3. § (0852) 2921 8365.
STORES § (0852) 2973 0034. Sharp St, Leighton Centre,
Causeway Bay. Pedder Building
Harbour City Honeychurch § (0852) 2890 5555.
Antiques Q Causeway Bay. 12 Pedder St,
3 Canton Rd, Tsim Sha Hong Kong Hotel, Central.
Tsui. Map 1 A4. 29 Hollywood Rd, Central. Harbour City, Canton Rd. Map 2 C3.
§ (0852) 2118 8666. Map 2 B3. Map 1 A4.
§ (0852) 2543 2433. § (0852) 2784 5555. Sam’s Tailor
Island Beverley
ELECTRONICS, Lok Cha Tea Shop Burlington Arcade, Shop K,
1 Great George St, CAMERAS & 94 Nathan Rd,
Causeway Bay. COMPUTERS 290b Queen’s Rd Central, Tsim Sha Tsui.
Q Causeway Bay. Sheung Wan. Map 2 A2. Map 1 B4.
Fortress § (0852) 2805 1360. § (0852) 2367 9423.
The Landmark
Shop 3320, The Gateway, CLOTHES Shanghai Tang
12–16 Des Voeux Rd Harbour City,
Central. Map 2 C3. Canton Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui. David’s Shirts Pedder Building,
§ (0852) 2526 4416. Map 1 A4. 12 Pedder St, Central.
§ (0852) 2116 1022. M17, Mandarin Oriental, Map 2 C3.
Pacific Place Queen’s Rd Central. § (0852) 2525 7333.
Map 2 C3.
88 Queensway. Map 3 D4. § (0852) 2524 2979.
§ (0852) 2844 8988.

332 THE SOUTH

Entertainment in Hong Kong & Macau some huge international
legends, is the venue for salsa,
HONG KONG’S ENTERTAINMENT options are Cuban, R&B, and jazz.
incredible. There are several good
venues attracting local and international The Macau Cultural
Centre is also worth a visit.
musicians, Chinese opera groups, and It houses art, history and
architecture exhibitions and
theater and comedy shows, particularly runs a busy calendar of
music, theater, opera, and
during the arts festival in February and dance, particularly in March
during Macau’s arts festival.
March. In recent years, the city’s nightlife
SPORTS
Fruity has begun to boom, and bars, dance
cocktails SPRING HERALDS the start of
venues, pubs, and music clubs are plentiful. the dragon boating season
The younger crowd have discovered an check the HKTB for event
details. The Rugby Sevens
appetite for house and techno music, although they tournament in March is a
huge, boisterous event for
retain their liking for Cantopop, the older pop genre. Hong Kong’s expats, many of
whom see its main purpose as
Karaoke bars are also a favorite with locals. an opportunity to drink large
quantities of beer. For those
Macau, although a lot quieter, is the place to go to for interested in the actual game,
50 matches are played by the
serious gambling or to eat at its excellent restaurants. assembled internationals in 72
hours. Hong Kong is also host
ENTERTAINMENT GUIDES NIGHTCLUBS to a number of professional
tennis tournaments from
VISITORS WILL be spoilt for NIGHTCLUBS VARY hugely October to December.
choice in terms of good from down-at-heel, free-
listings in Hong Kong. Perhaps to-enter clubs that just play GAMBLING
the best is the free, weekly music to slick, cutting edge
HK Magazine, available in venues for the rich and HORSE RACING at the tracks
most cafés and bars, that famous. Cover prices vary but in Sha Tin and Happy
offers a thorough guide to a typical mid-range fee would Valley (see p311) is the only
eating, drinking, shopping, be around HK$100. In Lan spectator sport where you can
and entertainment. The Friday Kwai Fong, Club 97 is small gamble legally in Hong Kong.
edition of the South China and smart with an exclusive It is the biggest such spectator
Morning Post is another good reputation. Its disc jockeys event in the region and race
listings guide. The free BC spin fine jazz, funk, and house days or nights are well worth
Magazine is a glossy tunes. C Club just round the attending for the sheer
fortnightly, with listings of corner below C Bar, is a great atmosphere alone. Macau also
clubs aimed at the young. place for house music. The has its own, less fevered
Drop, Home and the horse racing nights as well as
BARS & PUBS exclusive Dragon I are a few an excellent greyhound racing
of the other popular clubs. track, the rather grandly titled
THE PLACES TO find many of Canidrome. Macau, of
the best clubs, bars and MUSIC & ARTS VENUES course, is best known for its
pubs in Hong Kong are in Lan glitzy casinos, running all day
Kwai Fong (see p314) near THERE’S NO shortage of and night, most notably at
Central, the streets around the venues for large musical, Hotel Lisboa (see p327).
Escalator, and SoHo. Club 64 operatic, and dramatic
in Central, though nothing productions. These include CHILDREN’S
special to look at, is a friendly the Cultural Centre, that ENTERTAINMENT
place with an alternative sometimes offers free concerts,
crowd. Le Jardin, around the the Hong Kong Convention HONG KONG’S recent
corner, is less frenetic than & Exhibition Centre in Wan attractions are two state-
nearby Lan Kwai Fong, and Chai and the Hong Kong of-the-art amusement parks:
quiet enough to have a Coliseum in Hung Hom. Ocean Park (see p322), the
conversation in. If you want Close to the Coliseum, the Ko region’s oldest amusement
to drink with the jet-set, there Shan Theatre is the place to park, and more recently built
are a number of super-smart go for Chinese opera and Disneyland (see p325),
bars including Felix above orchestral music performances. offering a massive range of
the Peninsula Hotel with The Hong Kong Arts Centre, rides, attractions and
sensational harbor views. The Fringe Club, and The entertainment. At the top of
Alternatively, try the pricey Hong Kong Academy of the Victoria Peak (see pp312–13),
Tango Martini in Wan Chai, Performing Arts all offer
C Bar in Central, or the more intimate venues for an
fashionable Drop in SoHo, excellent and diverse range of
which turns into a club later arts from dance to stand-up
in the evening. For a more comedy. The Wanch is a tiny
laid-back drink in a pleasant place that hosts local folk and
organic café, go to Life, just indie acts, while The Music
off the Escalator in SoHo. Room Live, which hosted

HONG KONG & MACAU 333

Ripley’s Believe It or Not! becomes a huge open-air culminates in the eating of
Odditorium is a slightly market and there are huge piles of buns offered,
macabre collection of the spectacular harbor fireworks some say, to the unhappy
bizarre from around the world. that rival any display in the spirits of victims of the island’s
A little more educational, and world. The Birthday of Tin pirate past, and a procession
certainly more charming, is Hau, the Goddess of the Sea, of “floating” children, carried
the enchanting Edward is more low key. Parades and aloft on hidden poles. The
Youde Aviary in Hong Kong lion dances take place at the Dragon Boat Festival in June
Park, which is built to larger temples, including the is marked with a great flourish,
resemble a tropical rainforest. one at Joss House Bay in the making it one of the region’s
New Territories, and temples most exciting events. Other
TRADITIONAL FESTIVALS and fishing boats are traditional festivals celebrated
decorated all over Hong in Hong Kong include the
ONE OF Hong Kong’s Kong. The Cheung Chau Hungry Ghost Festival in
grandest annual Bun Festival in May is a fun mid/late August and the Mid-
celebrations is the Chinese three-day event on Cheung Autumn Festival in late
New Year. Victoria Park Chau Island (see p324). It September/early October.

DIRECTORY NIGHTCLUBS Hong Kong Arts GAMBLING
Centre
Hong Kong Tourist C Club The Canidrome
Board (HKTB) 2 Harbour Rd, Wan Chai.
30–32 D’Aiguilar St, Map 3 E3. Avenida General Castelo
Hong Kong Island: The California Tower. § (0852) 2582 0200. Branco, Macau.
Centre, 99 Queen’s Road Map 2 B3. ∑ www.hkac.org.hk § (0853) 333 399.
Central. Map 2 C3. § (0852) 2526 1139. ∑ www.macaudog.com
Kowloon: Star Ferry Hong Kong
Concourse. Map 1 5A. Club 97 Coliseum Happy Valley
§ (0852) 2508 1234. Racecourse
∑ www.discover 9 Lan Kwai Fong. Map 2 9 Cheong Wan Rd,
hongkong.com B3. § (0852) 2810 9333. Hung Hom, Kowloon. Happy Valley,
§ (0852) 2355 7233. Hong Kong Island.
BARS & PUBS Dragon I £ Hung Hom KCR. § 1817.
∑ www.lcsd.gov.hk/CE/ ∑ www.hkjc.com/english
C Bar The Centrium, 60 Entertainment/Stadia/HKC
Wyndham St. Map 2 B3. Sha Tin Racecourse
30–32 D’Aguilar St, § (0852) 3110 1222. Hong Kong
Central. Map 2 B3. Convention & § 1817.
§ (0852) 2530 3695. Home Exhibition Centre ∑ www.hkjc.com/english

Drop 2nd Floor, 23 Hollywood 1 Expo Drive. Map 3 F3. CHILDREN’S
Rd, Central. Map 2 B3. § (0852) 2582 8888. ENTERTAINMENT
Basement, On Lok § (0852) 2545 0023. ∑ www.hkcec.com.hk
Mansion, 39–43 Hollywood Disneyland
Rd, Central (entrance on MUSIC & ARTS Ko Shan Theatre
Cochrane St). Map 3 B3. VENUES Penny’s Bay,
§ (0852) 2543 8856. 77 Ko Shan Road, Lantau Island.
Hong Kong Hung Hom. § (0852) 2203 2000.
Felix Cultural Centre § (0852) 2740 9212. q Penny’s Bay.
∑ www.lcsd.gov.hk/CE/ ∑ www.hongkong
Peninsula Hotel, Salisbury L5, Auditoria Building, 10 CulturalService/KST/ disneyland.com/english
Road. Map 1 B4. Salisbury Rd. Map 1 B5.
§ (0852) 2315 3188. § (0852) 2734 2009. Macau Cultural Edward Youde
∑ www.lcsd.gov.hk/ Centre Aviary
Life en/cs.php
Av. Xian Xing Hai S/N Hong Kong Park, Cotton
10 Shelley Street, SoHo. The Fringe Club NAPE, Macau. Tree Drive, Central.
Map 2 B3. § (0853) 700 699. Map 2 C4.
§ (0852) 2810 9777. 2 Lower Albert Rd, Central. ∑ www.ccm.gov.mo/ § (0852) 2521 5041.
Map 2 C3. ∑ www.lcsd.gov.hk/parks
Le Jardin § (0852) 2521 7251. The Music
∑ www.hkfringe.com.hk Room Live Ripley’s Believe It
10 Wing Wah Lane, or Not! Odditorium
Central. Map 2 B3. Hong Kong 2nd Floor, California
§ (0852) 2526 2717. Academy for Tower, 34–36 D’Aguilar 3rd Floor, Peak Tower,
Performing Arts Street. Map 2 B3. 128 Peak Rd, The Peak.
Tango Martini § (0852) 2845 8477. Map 2 A5.
1 Gloucester Rd, Wan Chai. § (0852) 2849 0668.
3rd Floor, Empire Land Map 3 E3. The Wanch ∑ www.thepeak.com.hk/
Commercial Centre, § (0852) 2584 8500. tower/ripleys.html
81–85 Lockhart Rd, ∑ www.hkapa.edu 54 Jaffe Road, Wan Chai.
Wan Chai. Map 3 F4. Map 3 F4.
§ (0852) 2528 0855. § (0852) 2861 1621.

334 HONG KONG STREET FINDER

HONG KONG STREET FINDER

1 RD NORTH KEY TO STREET FINDER

HARBOUWRESCTREORSNSING CROSS HARBOUR TUNNELSCOIGNE RDC H ATH A M Place of interest
WEST KOWLOON T Other important building
EXPRESSWAY GACH ATHAM RD SOU HUNG HOM RD £ Train station
NATHAN ROADH Q MTR station
@ Bus station
TRAL SALISBURY RD g Ferry terminal
v Tram station
CONNAUGHT RD CEN Victoria Harbour n Tourist information
b Police station
HARCOURT GLOUCESTER ROAD a Hospital
RO AD WONG NAI N Post office
HUNG RD t Temple
C Railroad
Tramline

23 SCALE OF MAPS 1–3

0 meters 250

0 yards 250

Street Finder Index

A D J Mody Rd 1 B4, 1 C4 S

Aberdeen St 2 A3 D’Aguilar St 2 B3 Jade St 1 A2 Morrison St 2 A2 Saigon St 1 A2
continues 2 B3 Jaffe Rd 3 F4
2 B4 Des Voeux Rd Jervois St 2 A2 N Salisbury Rd 1 B5, 1 C4
Albany Rd 2 B3 Johnston Rd 3 E4, 3 F4
Arbuthnot Rd 3 E4 Central 2 B2, 2 C3 Jordan Path 1 C2 Severn Rd 2 B5
Arsenal St 1 B4 Jordan Rd 1 A2, 1 B2
Ashley Rd 1 C3 Drake St 3 D3, 3 D4 Jubilee St 2 B2 Nanking St 1 A2 Seymour Rd 2 A3
Austin Ave 1 B3
Austin Rd 1 C3 E continues 1 B2 Shanghai St 1 B1, 1 B2

continues Edinburgh Place Nathan Rd (The continues 1 B2

Elgin St 3 D3 Golden Mile) 1 B1 Shelley St 2 A3, 2 B3
2 B3
K continues 1 B2, 1 B3 Ship St 3 E4

F Ning Po St 1 B2 Spring Garden Lane 3 F4

B Fenwick St Kansu St 1 B1 O Stanley St 2 B3

continues 3 E3 Kennedy Rd 2 C4 Observatory Rd Star St 3 E4
Ferry St 3 E4
Barker Rd 2 B5, 2C5 Findlay Rd 1 A2 continues 3 D4, 3 E4 Old Peak Rd 1 C3 Staunton St 2 B3
Fleming Rd 2 A5, 2 B5 2 B4
Battery St 1 A2 3 F3, 3 F4 Kimberley Rd 1 B3, 1 C3 continues 2 A5 Stone Nullah Lane 3 F4

Bonham Strand Kimberley St 1 C3 Swatow St 3 F4

East 2 A2, 2 B2 Knutsford Terrace 1 B3 P T

Bonham Strand G continues 1 C3

West 2 A2 Kowloon Park Pak Hoi St 1 A2 Tai Pang Shan St 2 A2

Borrett Rd 3 D5 Gage St 2 B3 Drive 1 B4 continues 1 B2 Tak Hini St 1 B2

Bowen Rd 2 C4 Garden Rd 2 C3, 2 C4 L Parkes St 1 B2, 1 B3 Tak Shing St 1 B2

Bowring St 1 A2 Gascoigne Rd 1 C2 Peak Rd 2 A5 Tamar St 3 D3

continues 1 B2 Gloucester Rd 3 E3 Ladder St 2 A2, 2 A3 Pedder St 2 C3 Temple St 1B1

Bridges St 2 A3 continues 3 F3 Lan Kwai Fong 2 B3 Peel St 2 B3 continues 1B2, 1 B3

C Graham St 2 B3 Lee Tung St 3 F4 Peking Rd 1 B4 Thomson Rd 3 F4

Granville Rd 1 B3 Lock Rd 1 B4 Pier Rd 2 B2 Tia Yuen St 3 F4

Caine Rd 2 A3 continues 1 C3 Lockhart Rd 3 F4 Pilkem St 1 B3 Tregunter Path Rd 2 B5

continues 2 B3 Gresson St 3 E4 Lok Ku Rd 2 A2 Plantation Rd 2 B5 U

Cameron Rd 1 B4 H Lower Albert Rd 2 C3 Pottinger St 2 B3 Upper Albert Rd

continues 1 C4 Haiphong Rd continues 2 C4 Prat Ave 1 C4 continues 2 B4
Hankow Rd 2 C4
Canton Rd 1 A3 Hanoi Rd 1 B4 Luard Rd 3 F4 Promenade 1C4, 1C5 Upper Lascar Rd 2 A2
Harbour Rd 1 B4
continues 1 A4 Harbour View St 1 C4 Lugard Rd 2 A4 Public
Harcourt Rd 3 F3
Carnarvon Rd 1 B3 Hennessy Rd 2 C2 Lung Wui Rd 3 D3 Square St 1 A1, 1 B1 W
3 D3
continues 1 C4 continues 3 E4 Lyndhurst Terrace 2 B3 Q
Hoi Wang Rd 3 F4
Castle Rd 2 A3 Hollywood Rd 1 A1 M Wai Ching St 1 A2
2 A2
Chater Rd 2 C3 continues 2 B3 Queen Victoria St 2 B2 Wan Chai Rd 3 F4
Hornsey Rd 2 B4
Chatham Rd South 1 C3 Humphreys Ave 1 B4 Macdonnell Rd 2 C4 Queen’s Rd Waterloo Rd 1 A1

continues 1 C4 Magazine Gap Rd 2 B4 Central 2 A2, 2 B2 Wellington St 2 B2, 2 B3

Chi Wo St 1 B2 continues 2 C4, 3 D5 Queen’s Rd East 3 E4 Wing Fung St 3 E4

Cochrane St 2 B3 Man Cheong St 1 A2 Queen’s Rd West 2 A2 Wing Lok St 2 A2, 2 B2

Conduit Rd 2 A4 Man Ming Lane 1 B1 Queensway 3 D4 Woosung St 1 B2, 1 B3

Connaught Rd Man Wai St 1 A2 R Wylie Rd 1 C1

Central 2 B2, 2 C2 Man Wue St 1 A2 Reclamation St Wyndham St 2 B3

Cotton Tree Drive 2 C4 I Man Ying St 1 A2 continues 1 B1 Y
1 B2
Cox’s Rd 1 B2 Ice House St Man Yuen St 1 A2 Robinson Rd 2 A3 Yan Cheung Rd

Cross St 3 F4 2 C3 Middle Rd 1 B4 1 A1

HOI WANG ROADWATERLOO RDFERRY R E C L A M AT I O N SHANGHAI Yau Ma Tei P RINCESS MARGARET RD

YAU MA TEI MAN MING LANE NATHAN ROAD KING'S WYLIE
PARK
STREET TEMPLE STREET

STREET STREET

PUBLIC SQUARE STREET

Jade Tin Hau
Market Temple

YAN CHEUNG RO A D

KANSU STREET Queen ROAD
STREET Elizabeth
Hospital

MAN CHEONG ST PAK STREET ST
MAN WAI ST ST
HOI STREET
MAN YUEN ST ON
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MAN WUE ST AI
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CANTON ROAD SHANGHAI STREET STREET PARKES STREET Jordan TAK SHING ST ROAD KOWLOON ATH U S T I N
WOOSUNG STREET CRICKET
BOWRING PILKEM ST CLUB

STREET AUSTIN ROAD
A
AUSTIN ROAD

Museum

TSIM SHA (THE GOLDEN MILE) A V E of History
TSUI
NU E
KOWLOON
PARK OB SE R VA TO Hong Kong
STREET Science Museum
CHINESE KNUT SFORD TERR R Y
GARDEN BERL EY ROAD RD
ROAD
Kowloon GRANV URBAN
Mosque K I M ROAD SOUTH L LE
THE
HAIPHONG ROAD CARNARVON ROADKIMBERLEY I

ROAD COUNCIL

GRANVILLE T S I MCENTENARY
GARDEN

China Ferry CANTON CAME RON S H AROAD
Terminal
AVE P R AT AVENUE TSUI ROAD
Harbour HANOI ROA EAST
Macau, City ASHLEY ROAD LOCK ROAD HUMPH REYS CHATHAM
China KOWLOON PARK DRIVE HANKOW ODY
Ocean Terminal Tsim M
Sha Tsui
Tsim Sha Tsui
Star Ferry Pier D

MODY ROAD WING ON

PLAZA

GARDEN

PEKING ROAD ROAD SIGNAL HILL
GARDEN
ROAD MIDDLE ROAD P R O ME Tsim Sha Tsui
DEast Tsim NADE East Ferry Pier
Peninsula R O ASha Tsui
Hotel
TSIM
SALISBURY SHA North
Space TSUI Point
Museum W
Cultural AT E R F RONT
Centre Museum
of Art
Clocktower

AVE OF THE STARS

Cheung Chau Island, Victoria Harbour
Lantau Island
Wan Chai
Central Queen's Pier

Macau Ma Wan Discovery Bay, Lamma Cheung Chau Mui Wo,
Lantau Island Island Island Peng Chau
WCerstoesrsinngHarbour
& Lantau
Island

Hong Kong–Macau Government
Ferry Terminal Pier

Pier 2 Pier 3

W I Pier 4
AM
N G Pier 5
OC O NB
N LOK
H Western Pier 6
Market
N A U G HSTRAND ST PIER ROAD

Sheung
Wan
T R O AQUEEN'S RD W MORRISON
WEST ST WING LOK S TREET DES VOE
SBTORNAHNADMEAST BONHAM STRAN D EAST
S HWEAUNN G D C ETAI PANG RVOIS S TREET
JE R OA Two International
H Q U EEN'S Finance Centre

UP LO UX Airport Express
PER HAHRoBOnUgRKVoIEnWg Station
K KU D NTRAL
RD ST
SHAN O L L ASCARR D CENTRAL Q UJ UEBEINL EVPEIOCSTTTOT IRNI AG ES TR
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BLAKE E T E
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ST L

Man Mo R OAD IN

Temple G Central Star
BRIDGES STREET Ferry Pier
LADDER H TONCOCHRANE PED DER ST
GAGE ST
OLLYWOOD STANLEY CHUNG WAN
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SEYM O UR CAINE STAUNTON (CENTRAL)LYNDHURST ST KWAI
CASTL E ROA D GRAHAM
TERRACE
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RO STREET ST D'AGUILAR ST Central C H AT E R Prince's
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R O B I N S ON AD C PEEL STREET S H E L L EEYscalator WYSNTDRHE E LAN HAM ST
ST ARBUT HNOT ROAD T AM STREET STATUE
Legislative
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Jamia FONGWYND C H AT E R
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ANY RD Government C HONG

Peak Tramway House Peak Tram
Station

LUGAR D GARDENS

H O RNS Edward
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EY ROAD
KENNE D Y

RO RO
AD AD
MO MAGAZI NE MA C D O N N E LL

UN G ABOWEN ROAD

STI N D OA D
TA U
ROA P
ROAD
M AY E G U N TER PATH R O A D

SHAN TOLD ENG N P EAK TR ROAD
U

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RO ROAD
AD (THE PEAK) TER P AT H

RO A D R

Peak BAR K E R
Tower F I N

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DL
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P E AK
R OAD SE VE ROAD
P L A NTATI O N

Tsim Sha Tsui Cultural Museum Hung Hom
Star Ferry Pier Centre of Art
Tsim Sha
Tsui East

Pier 7

Victoria Harbour Hung Hom

Queen's EXPO DRIVE EAST Wan Chai
Pier Ferry Pier

LUNG WUI ROADEDPILNABCUERGHTIM Hong Kong
WA Convention
WATERFRONTH A R C O U R T AVE VENTION AVENUE & Exhibition
Centre

TIM MEI AVENUE PIER STREET S T R E E T CON FLEMING

FENWICK HARBOUR ROAD

Admiralty ROA D Central

TAMAR Plaza
ST
Bank of DRAKE STREET HARCOURT ARSENAL STREETGLOUCESTER ROAD
China Tower
WAN CHAI
FENWICK ROAD ROAD
QUEENSW AY GARDEN LUARD ROAD JAFFE

Flagstaff Supreme LOCKHART ROAD
House Court

PARK Pacific J O HE N NESSY ROA D Wan Chai N RD
Place STO N THOMSON
Conservatory JUSTICE DRIVE QUEEN'S H N SOUTHORN R O A D S T O
PLAYGROUND
RO FUNWGISNTG SGTRREESESTON RD J H N

A STAR O
D

STREET ROAD SHIP ST SWATOW ST ST TIA YUEN STONE NULLAH LANE ROAD
LANE

Hung Shing E A S SPRINL EGEG TARUDNEGN CROSS ST CH A I
Temple Hopewell

T STREET

KENNEDY Centre WAN
ROAD

BOWEN D
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ORRETT ROAD Pak Tai
Temple

ROAD

PEAK



THE
SOUTHWEST

INTRODUCING THE SOUTHWEST 340–347
SICHUAN & CHONGQING 348–371
YUNNAN 372–395
GUIZHOU & GUANGXI 396–425

340 THE SOUTHWEST

The Southwest at a Glance

SOME OF CHINA’S MOST EVOCATIVE LANDSCAPES are
found in the Southwest: the fertile Red Basin of
eastern Sichuan, deep gorges along the Yangzi River,

the mountainous fringes of the Tibetan Plateau,

Xishuangbanna’s tropical forests, and the karst hills

of Guizhou and Guangxi. Cultural highlights

include the sites of Buddhist art at Le Shan

and Dazu, and the remains of Ming city walls The stepped and calcified Mirror

at Dali and Songpan. Ethnic minority Pools in Huanglong, Sichuan

communities include Tibetans in the west,

Miao and Dong in Guizhou and Guangxi, •
Dali’s Bai, Lijiang’s Naxi, and the Dai of
SERXU

•

Xishuangbanna. There are wildlife preserves ABA

for giant pandas near Chengdu, waterfowl at

Cao Hai, and elephants in Xishuangbanna; and • 317
trekking opportunities at Tiger Leaping Gorge, Emei
Shan, and along the Lao border in southern Yunnan. MANIGANGGO

317

318 LUDING

•

KANGDING •

Lhasa Jinsha Jiang

ZHONGDIAN 108
Yangzi
•

LIJIANG •

Mekong DALI

•

The Miao village of Xijiang nestled into a terraced • • BAOSHAN 320 •
valley near Kaili, Guizhou KUNMING
TENGCHONG

•

FENGQING

• Mekong YUXI •

RUILI

GETTING AROUND 213 323
Jiang
The major cities and destinations, such as Chengdu, Chong- Yuan
qing, Kunming, Guiyang, Guilin, Lijiang, and Jinghong, are all
served by air. Train lines, though more restricted, offer fairly JINGHONG •
direct services connecting the provincial capitals with most of XISHUANGBANNA
the larger cities. A comprehensive network of buses covers
much of the region, with comfortable express coaches and
surfaced roads linking key sites, though travel through remoter
areas on local buses can be rough and slow going, particularly
in Guizhou and Guangxi. It is also possible to spend a few
days taking a ferry down the Yangzi from Chongqing, or to
take a scenic day trip along the Li River between Guilin and
Yangshuo in Guangxi province.

Bizarre karst landscape surrounding Yangshuo, Guangxi

INTRODUCING THE SOUTHWEST 341

KEY

National highway
Major road
Minor road
Mountain
Lanzhou

213• SONGPAN Xi’an Dai women selling their produce at a market in
326 Jinghong, Xishuangbanna
326
CHENGDU 212 DACHUAN
• 210• Yangzi

318

EMEI SHAN SICHUAN &
CHONGQING
LE SHAN DAZU CHONGQING
•
• •

ZIGONG 319

•

210 YUNNAN GUIZHOU
Chishu & GUANGXI

i He ZUNYI

•

• GUIYANG KAILI

WEINING • •

ANSHUN • 321

210 GUILIN
•

324 • XINGYI

•

LIUZHOU

• BOSE

•• Guangzhou

YANSHAN FUNING •

• WUZHOU

NANNING 324

Zuo Jiang • QINZHOU

SEE ALSO • 0 km 100

• Where to stay pp613–616 BEIHAI
• Where to eat pp593–5
0 miles 100

342 THE SOUTHWEST

A PORTRAIT OF THE SOUTHWEST

THE SOUTHWEST’S stunning landscapes, from the impossibly steep
limestone hillocks along the Li River, to the deep gorges cut by
the upper reaches of the Yangzi, make it one of China’s most
picturesque regions. The area’s ethnic diversity, evident in the
traditional culture and lifestyles of its numerous minority communities,
also adds to its attraction as an exotic tourist destination.

The Southwest’s isolation has Southern Silk Route, until it was

meant that for much of its past conquered by the Yuan

it has forged its own path. emperor Kublai Khan in the

The area roughly covered by 13th century. Through much of

today’s Yunnan has always the Ming and Qing eras, the

had closer ties with its neigh- area that is now Yunnan,

bors to the south and east Guizhou, and Guangxi was

than with China’s traditional ruled as a colonized outpost,

dynastic centers. During the dominated by tribal chieftains.

period of the Warring States During the 1800s, the dispos-

(771–221 BC), Zhuang Qiao, The endangered panda, sessed, ground down by merci-

a Chu general, was sent here indigenous to Sichuan less warlords and extra imperial

to subdue the tribes, but after taxes, revolted in two major

a long campaign, he was impelled to uprisings: the Muslim Uprising of 1856,

stay, establishing the Kingdom of Dian centered on Kunming, and the Taiping

at what is now Kunming in around Rebellion begun in Guangxi (see p422).

300 BC. For the next 500 years, the king- Both uprisings were brutally suppressed

dom existed as a loose conglomerate of by the Qing and colonizing forces, send-

tribute-paying tribal chiefs. ing the region into a downward spiral of

In the 8th century, the Kingdom of provincial obscurity and abject poverty.

Nanzhao emerged in Dali, extending its The Miao minority revolted again in

territory into Vietnam and Myanmar. The 1870. When the Communists marched

dynasty grew wealthy on trade along the through during the Long March in 1934,

Fishing boats on the banks of peaceful Er Hai (Ear Lake) near Dali

INTRODUCING THE SOUTHWEST 343

remaining pandas live in what is left of

Sichuan’s bamboo groves. For a fashion-

able metropolis, the capital of Chengdu is

surprisingly laid-back, a characteristic that

is best seen in the many teahouses found

in parks, temples, and old courtyards.

Yunnan stretches from the Tibetan

foothills in the north, where the head-

waters of the Yangzi gather strength, to

Xishuangbanna and the Laotian border

in the south, through which the

Mekong languidly flows. Today,

Yunnan is quickly becoming one of the

country’s foremost tourist destinations.

North of Kunming lie the pretty towns

of Dali and Lijiang, surrounded by vil-

Worshipers wreathed in incense smoke at Chengdu’s lages inhabited by the indigenous Bai

main Daoist temple, Qingyang Gong and Naxi peoples. Xishuangbanna’s

landscape and culture, on the other

they encountered a population ready for hand, are reminiscent of Vietnam, Laos,

revolution and took on many recruits. and Myanmar. The regular markets,

Sichuan, the region’s largest province, where minority people gather,

has long been a part of China are always full of color.

– the enigmatic bronze- Most tourists head to

working Ba culture flourished Guangxi for the stunning karst

here around 1000 BC, with landscapes surrounding Guilin

its capital at Sanxingdui, north and Yangshuo. The charms

of modern Chengdu. After the of Guizhou and Guangxi lie,

fall of the Han dynasty in AD however, in the less visited

220, the province’s fertile eastern areas of hilly rural land-

part became the agriculturally scape, peppered with

self-sufficient Kingdom of Shu wooden villages and in-

during the Three Kingdoms habited by minority

period (AD 221–63), whose Bai women in tradi- peoples – the Miao in par-

wealth sponsored great religious tional dress, Shaping ticular are renowned for

works under the Tang and Song their ultra-sociable festi-

dynasties such as the huge Buddha at vals. The region’s poverty, due to its

Le Shan. Sichuan remained a crucial poor farmland, has allowed natural

outpost during the ensuing eras. Chong- sights such as the magnificent Detian

qing, its major city, was targeted for Falls, and the lush Maling Canyon to

heavy industry under the Communists remain beautifully untouched.

and is today the world’s

largest municipality, break-

ing away from Sichuan in

1997. It’s from Chongqing

that the Three Gorges Cruise

down the Yangzi begins (see

pp352–4), still the main rea-

son to visit the city.

Sichuan’s heavily populated

eastern plains give way to the

sparsely populated foothills

and Aba Grasslands plateau,

inhabited mainly by ethnic

Tibetans. On the fringes of

this frontier, the last few Limestone peaks coated in vegetation, Li River area

344 THE SOUTHWEST

The Flora of Southwest China

SOUTHWEST CHINA HAS the greatest variety A major tourist site, the
of flora in the whole country, and Tropical Botanical Gardens
Yunnan Province in particular can claim at Xishuangbanna are also
the diversity prize, having some 15,000 where research into tropical
Colorful bracts species of plant, or about half the country’s forest ecosystems takes place.
of bougainvillea total. Many garden plants originate from
this part of China, including the ubiqui-
tous rhododendron and magnolia. The reason for this
richness lies in its unique geography: in a very short
distance the environment changes from high altitude
mountain plateau to moist subtropical jungle on the
Tropic of Cancer in the south, with isolated valleys
that restrict access and cross-pollination in between.

MOUNTAINS AND VALLEYS

The landscapes of this region are dominated by
seemingly endless vistas of mountain ranges and
deep valleys. In northern Yunnan, western Sichuan
and southwest Tibet lie the headwaters of three of
the world’s great rivers: from west to east, the Nu
Jiang (Salween), the Lancang Jiang (Mekong), and
the Jiansha Jiang (Yangzi). All originate high in the
mountains of Tibet and Qinghai.

Magnolia (Magnolia
campbellii), with its showy
pink flowers, is native to the
Himalayas and China. It
was discovered by George
Forrest, a Scottish plant hunter,
in 1904 but was not brought into
cultivation until 1924.

Mountain slopes, lush with beautiful plants
such as rhododendrons and magnolias.

Wild rhododendrons grow in this region, a Poppy (Meconopsis
center of diversity for many plants. Most of the integrifolia) grows high in
modern hybrid garden forms originate from the mountains of southwest
wild species introduced from southwest China. China at 8,850–16,730

ft (2,700–5,100 m), its
foliage protected by soft
silky hairs. First collected
by renowned botanist E.H.
Wilson, the poppy is used
in traditonal medicine.

Many slipper orchid Camellias, of which
species thrive in the there are many
beautiful garden
alpine meadows of the species, are grown
Sichuan mountains mainly for their
lovely flowers. Also,
above 7,800 ft (2,400 more than 200
m) and Cypripedium kinds of tea in
tibeticum is one of China are based on
Camellia sinensis.
the most
attractive.

INTRODUCING THE SOUTHWEST 345

TROPICAL FOREST OR JUNGLE

A rare habitat in China, jungle covers only about 0.5
per cent of the country, but it contains 25 per cent
of the species. One of the largest remaining areas
lies in the southwest, in Xishuangbanna Prefecture,
Yunnan Province. Here, there is a rainy season
between April and October, the annual rainfall is
about 60 in (1,500 mm), and both humidity and
temperatures are high. Jungle is also found on
Hainan Island, and in southern Guangxi Province.

Pomelo or Chinese grapefruit
(Citrus maxima) has been

cultivated in southern China
for thousands of years.
The flowers are followed by
very large fruits with green
rind and sweet, juicy flesh.

Dragon’s blood (Dracaena Typically dense patch of natural tropical
cochinchinensis) plays an forest in Jinghong, southern Yunnan
important role in traditional
Chinese medicine. Its red, Musella (Musella lasiocarpa),
blood-like sap is collected and closely related to the banana,

used in a variety of is a beautiful but rare
preparations to improve the plant in Yunnan and
Guizhou Provinces.
circulation of the blood.
Endangered in the wild, it is It is low-growing
now being planted to ensure and has a dense
yellow flowerhead,
supplies continue. reminiscent of
a globe artichoke.

The jungle floor is carpeted with ferns and The red dwarf banana,
shrubs while above, lianas and figs drape (Musa coccinea), is one
and strangle tree branches. Mists and of the prettiest banana
monsoon rains constantly dampen the air, so plants and is popular in
epiphytes (plants growing on trees) flourish. gardens. About 6.5 ft
(2m) tall, it has bright red
flowers that last up to two
months. It is now scarce
because of over-collection
and habitat destruction.

FAMOUS PLANT HUNTERS

The beginning of the 20th century saw a number of intrepid

botanists and explorers set out to discover and bring back new

and exotic plants from around the world. Among the most famous

were George Forrest (1873–1932), E.H. Wilson (1876–1930), Joseph

Rock (1884–1962), and Frank Kingdon Ward (1885–1958). Although

not one of the early pioneers, Kingdon Ward achieved renown

exploring and collecting botanical specimens in Yunnan Province

just before and after World War I, and also later in Tibet. Among

his most celebrated discoveries are several rhododendron species.

In the 1920s he brought back seeds of the beautiful blue poppy

Meconopsis betonicifolia, which inspired the title of the most Frank Kingdon Ward,
famous of his many books: The Land of the Blue Poppy. explorer and collector

346 THE SOUTHWEST

Regional Food:The Southwest Eggplants and
yard-long beans
SUBJECT TO HOT SUMMERS and mild winters with plenty of
rain, the Southwest enjoys year-round crop growth,
making it one of China’s “rice bowls.” The Sichuan
basin also yields a wealth of subtropical products
such as fruits, tea, and herbal medicines and its
spicy cooking has become the region’s dominant
cuisine. By contrast, the cooking of Yunnan is
underrated despite some wonderful produce;
while the cuisines of Guizhou and Guangxi lie
somewhere between Sichuanese spiciness and the
subtle, delicate flavors of the Cantonese kitchen.

not paralyze the tastebuds, The most famous regional
but stimulate the palate. Each spice is the Sichuan pepper-
dish should be a balance of corn (hua jiao). This dried
flavors such as sweet, sour, flowerbud has an aromatic,
bitter, hot, salty, aromatic, lemony heat that makes the
and fragrant. When the palate mouth tingle, even numbing it
is stimulated by the heat of against the chilies’ heat. The
the chili, it becomes sensitized final secret of Sichuan food is
and can appreciate even more the purity of the salt collected
flavors at the same time. from the mines of Zigong.

Fresh green & red Large dried chilies Chili bean paste
chilies (sharp, hot) (smoky, warm) (rich deep heat)

Fruits and deep-fried snacks on “Red oil”
sticks, typical of the Southwest (mild heat)

SICHUAN

THE CUISINE of Sichuan has “Towards the sky” Sichuan peppercorns Small dried
the reputation of being chilies (very hot) (aromatic spicy) chilies (hot)
richly flavored and peppery
hot but, in fact, a lot of A selection of Sichuan spices
Sichuanese dishes are not
hot at all. After all the chili is
a relatively recent import from
the Americas that was not
widely cultivated here until
the 19th century. According
to Sichuanese chefs, chilies do

REGIONAL DISHES AND SPECIALTIES

Most visitors to China will at some time come

across versions of Kung-Po Chicken and
Ma Po Doufu. However, oustide Sichuan it

is likely to lack the depth of flavors and

balance of textures of the original. Each
region of China has its own “preserved

vegetables” but Sichuan’s is among the best – a

pickled mustard root in a spicy sauce.

Fresh water Yunnan’s “Crossing the Bridge Noodles” is said
chestnuts to have been created by the wife of a Qing-
dynasty scholar to prevent the noodles cooling

on the way to her husband studying in an island pavilion.

This consists of a chicken broth with a hot, insulating layer of

oil on top served with noodles, slices of ham, vegetables, and Kung-Po Chicken: the best-

egg to be added to it at the table. Another specialty is Steam known Sichuan dish; Kung-Po

Pot Chicken cooked with vegetables and often medicinal was an official from Guizhou,

herbs; as it steams a flavorful broth is created in the pot. but his chef was Sichuanese.