China

SHANGHAI 197

Old Shanghai

UNTIL 1842 SHANGHAI was a Americans, British, and French
minor Chinese river port, had their own “concessions” –

worthy of a protective rampart exclusive areas within the city

but otherwise undistinguished. with their own police forces

In that year the Chinese and judiciary – a situation that

government capitulated to attracted not only entrepreneurs,

western demands for trade but refugees, criminals, and

concessions resulting in a revolutionaries. This mix was a

number of ports along China’s potent one and Shanghai’s

eastern seaboard, including reputation for glamor and excess

Shanghai, becoming essentially derives from the politically

European outposts. Their key combustible period between the

feature was that of extra- two world wars. It all came to

territoriality – foreign residents Calendar girls, an end in the 1940s when
were answerable only to the 1930s foreigners gave up their rights in

laws of their own country. Thus the the face of growing Chinese opposition.

The Bund, also known as
Zhongshan Lu, the wide

thoroughfare running along
the Huangpu River. This was
where all the major players

in Shanghai commerce
built their offices and

created the distinctively
grandiose skyline that still

greets the river-going
traveler today.

The Great World was a The Race Course,
quintessential Shanghai located in the area of
creation, a mixture of today’s People’s Park,
freakishness, fashion, sex, was an indispensable
and theater under one roof, part of expatriate life,
owned by the gangster where, just as in the
Pockmarked Huang. numerous clubs and
institutions for non-
Chinese, expats were
able to socialize as if
they were at home.

Opium, trafficked commercially with claims Nanking Road, as it was then known, was, and
for free-trade by British companies like Jardine still is, Shanghai’s retail hub. Divided in two
Matheson, was the foundation of Shanghai’s parts (the western end then known as Bubbling
prosperity and dens dotted the city. When the Well Road), it was home to China’s first
mercantile veneer was jettisoned, opium became department stores, where Chinese and
the currency of Shanghai’s gangster underworld. expatriates mixed on an equal footing.

198 CENTRAL CHINA

Brightly colored boats alongside the lake pier at Hongkou Park (Lu Xun Park)

Hongkou Park e Shaw. Just south of Hongkou Song Qingling, wife of the

Park is Lu Xun’s Former revolutionary leader Dr. Sun

Residence, where the novelist Yat Sen. All the Song siblings

Baoshan Lu. Q Hongkou. # daily. spent the last three years of – three sisters and a brother –
&
his life at a house on Shanyin came to wield a lot of

Lu. It is an interesting influence in China. Of the

TO THE NORTH of Suzhou example of a typical 1930s three sisters, Song Meiling
Creek and Waibaidu Japanese-style residence, married Chiang Kai Shek, the

Bridge lies the Japanese but is perhaps even head of the Nationalist

section of the former more sparely Republic of China from 1928

International furnished than other to 1949; Ailing married H.H.

Settlement, which houses of the time. Kung, the director of the

once had a Zen Lu Xun’s rattan chairs Bank of China, and Song

temple, a Japanese and writing desk are Qingling married Sun Yat Sen.

school, and specialist also on display. Her brother, known as T.V.

Japanese shops. The Song, became Chiang Kai

area’s most P Lu Xun’s Shek’s finance minister. Song

interesting spot is Former Residence Qingling stayed in China once

Hongkou Park, Statue, Lu Xun’s 9 Luxincun, Shanyin Lu. the communists took over
which is a pleasant and became an honorary
Tomb # 9am–4pm daily. &

place to pass the communist heroine. She lived

time and watch the Chinese Song Qingling’s in Shanghai after her husband’s
taking boat rides on the lake, Former death, initially in the house
playing chess, practising tai ji they had shared in the former

quan or simply relaxing. It is Residence r French Concession (see p194),
also known as Lu Xun Park before moving to this villa.

due to its strong associations She died in Beijing in 1981.

with the great Chinese The house is a charming

novelist, Lu Xun (1881–1936), 1843 Huaihai Zhong Lu. Q Hengshan example of a mid-20th-century

who lived nearby. His most Lu. # 9–11am & 1pm–4:30pm daily. Shanghai villa. It has some

famous work is The True & wonderful wood paneling and

Story of Ah Q, which lacquerwork. Her limousines

lampooned the Chinese AT THE SOUTHWESTERN edge of are still parked in the garage,
national character. Lu Xun the city is the fine villa and some of her personal

was also an early proponent that was the residence of items are also displayed.

of the baihua or plain speech

movement, which championed

the simplification of the

Chinese script and the use of

spoken Chinese in literature.

Lu Xun’s Tomb, where his

ashes were interred in 1956 to

mark the 20th anniversary of

his death, is also in the park.

To the right of the park’s

main entrance lies a

Memorial Hall dedicated to

the novelist, where visitors

can view early editions of his

work and his correspondence

with various intellectuals

including George Bernard Song Qingling’s Former Residence – a charming early 20th-century villa

SHANGHAI 199

Xujiahui Catholic
Cathedral t

158 Puxi Lu. § (021) 6438 2595.
Q Xujiahui. # 1pm–5pm Sat, Sun.

THE RED BRICK Gothic Commemorative statue at the Longhua Cemetery of Martyrs
Cathedral of St. Ignatius
that stands at a southwestern AD 977, while the temple 1925–35. Services, often in
corner of Shanghai has long buildings were built during the Latin, take place on Christian
been associated with foreign late Qing era. The temple has holidays and particularly in
nationals. The land originally several halls and is very May, when pilgrims stream
belonged to a member of the active. The surrounding area here in their hundreds. The
Xu clan, Xu Guangqi (1562– is pretty in spring, when the impressive cathedral is worth
1633), who was converted to peach trees are in bloom. a closer look. The route to
Catholicism by Matteo Ricci. the top represents the Via
Upon his death, Xu left land She Shan u Dolorosa (The Way of Suffer-
to the Jesuits for the building ing), the road that Christ took
of a church, seminary, and 22 miles (35 km) SW of Shanghai. to his crucifixion. It is a pleas-
observatory. The cathedral, c from Wenhua Guangchang bus ant walk past bamboo groves,
with its 164-ft (50-m) twin stop or Xi Qu bus station in Shanghai. but there is a cable car that
towers, was built in 1906. It goes to the summit. The hill
was partly destroyed during SHE HILL OR SHE SHAN is a also has an ancient observa-
the Cultural Revolution, but mere 328-ft (100-m) high, tory that houses an ingenious
was rebuilt, and now holds and is surmounted by a grand, earthquake-monitoring device
Sunday services attended by red-brick Catholic church, Our of a jar with dragon heads
over 2,000 worshipers. The Lady of China. In the 1850s, around the outside and a
interior is an interesting mix of European missionaries built a pendulum inside. Each dragon
traditional Catholic decoration small chapel here. Later, a has a steel ball in its mouth.
and Chinese embellishment. bishop took refuge in the area When an earthquake occurred,
Xu Guangqi is buried nearby and vowed to build a church. the pendulum would swing,
in Nandan Park. The basilica was built between knock a dragon, causing its
mouth to open and a ball to
Longhua Cemetery drop out and thereby point
of Martyrs y out the quake’s direction.

2887 Longhua Lu. Q Shanghai Song Jiang i
Stadium. § (021) 6468 5995. @ Bus
41. # 8:30am–4:30pm daily. &
Longhua Si 2853 Longhua Lu. #
7am–5pm daily. &

THIS SITE HONORS those who Exterior of the grand She Shan 25 miles (40 km) SW of Shanghai. c
died for the communist church, Our Lady of China
cause before the People’s from Xi Qu bus station in Shanghai.
Republic was established in
1949. At the center is a SITUATED ON THE Shanghai-
Memorial Hall, while many Hangzhou railway line,
commemorative sculptures Song Jiang is a small county
dot the park. The cemetery is town with a handful of sights.
situated on the site of the These include a Song-dynasty
Nationalist Party’s execution square pagoda, and close by,
ground, where several a 13-ft (4-m) high and 20-ft
hundred communists were put (6-m) long Ming screen wall,
to death by Chiang Kai Shek. decorated with carvings of
legendary beasts that
Lying adjacent is Longhua represent human failings.
Si and an octagonal pagoda. West of Song Jiang is an old
A temple has existed on this mosque, part of which dates
site since AD 687, and a to the Yuan dynasty and is
pagoda since AD 238–251. said to be one of the oldest
The foundations of the Islamic buildings in China. It
current pagoda, with its is still a place of worship.
upturned eaves, date to

200 CENTRAL CHINA

Shopping & Entertainment in Shanghai bet, and are available in
stores such as Shanghai
SHANGHAI HAS ALWAYS been China’s Pearl City. For Chinese art,
premier shopping destination. there are several galleries on
Before World War II, the city’s glam- Maoming Lu and on Nanjing
orous foreign community demanded Lu such as Duoyun Xuan
the finest goods, and Shanghai’s repu- and Room With a View.
tation for novelty and quality continues
today, with stores that cater to all tastes ENTERTAINMENT GUIDES
Mao Memorabilia, and budgets. This is also a culturally & TICKETS
Pongtai Lu Market vibrant city, with regular perform-
ances of opera, theater, acrobatics, THERE ARE A number of
Western classical music, and jazz. The city’s nightlife is English language
buzzing with plenty of fashionable bars and restaurants, publications, such as the
as well as cinemas and nightclubs. monthly that’s Shanghai,
which carry details of current
SHOPS & MARKETS real thing, and second, it is events, as well as restaurant
illegal to export antiques that reviews. Mainstream events
SHANGHAI’S BEST-KNOWN do not bear a government- are listed in local Chinese
shopping street is Nanjing approved seal. Bargains are newspapers. Tickets can be
Lu, which is lined with stores hard to come by and the best arranged through the tourist
(see p188). The Friendship quality items are not likely to office, directly at the venue or
Store is worth visiting for be much cheaper than at even through your hotel.
Chinese wares, while the home. The main markets are Booking in advance, wherever
most interesting local market near the Old City on Dongtai possible, is recommended.
is just off Nanjing Lu, on Lu, Fuyou Lu (open Sunday
Jiangyin Lu. Huaihai Lu in the only), and Fangbang Lu. PERFORMING ARTS &
former French Concession is Fangbang Lu’s (see p192) MUSIC
the other well-known street, Hubao Building Basement
packed with upscale fashion Market is the largest indoor SHANGHAI CAN BOAST a wide
boutiques and stores. antique market in Shanghai. variety of performing arts.
Guangdong Lu has the state- There are several interna-
CLOTHES & TEXTILES run Shanghai Antique & tional-standard venues such
Curio Shop, while Hongkou as the Shanghai Grand
ALL THE MAJOR brand names district’s Duolun Lu has a Theater (see p188) that stage
from Europe, the US, and row of restored shops selling national and international
Japan are represented here, antiques, books, and art. opera performances, Western
along with some Hong Kong classical music, dance, and
chain stores, though the latter ARTS & CRAFTS theater. Another very popular
often don’t have sizes that fit cultural venue is the Shanghai
foreign visitors. The main ALL TRADITIONAL Chinese arts Center (see p188), which also
streets are Nanjing Lu, Shaanxi and crafts are widely puts on classical Western
Nan Lu, Huaihai Lu, and available in Shanghai. The music and opera, as well as
Maoming Lu. For cheap Friendship Store is a good, nightly performances of the
clothing, visit the Xiangyang if pricey, place to go for a city’s most famous acrobatic
Lu Clothes Market that general selection, while the troupe. Traditional Chinese
opens daily south of Huaihai Yu Gardens Bazaar is great opera can be seen at the
Lu. For reasonably priced silk, for items such as tea, teapots, Tianchan Yifu Theater and
try the No. 1 Department and teaware. For porcelain, occasionally at the old
Store (see p188), but the best the best buys are the fine Lyceum Theater (Lan Xin),
quality is sold at stores such reproductions of classical where some of the famous
as Isetan. Another good bet porcelain, available at the names of British music hall
is the Friendship Store. The Shanghai Museum, which played before World War II.
city has also revived its although expensive, are far The Majestic Theater also
tradition of fine tailoring, and better than anything else in has a programme of regular
W.W. Chan & Sons Tailor the market. Handicrafts made performances of ballet and
Ltd is quality at good prices. by China’s ethnic minorities local opera, while modern
such as Tibetans, as well as Chinese theater is performed
ANTIQUES by people of neighboring at the Shanghai Dramatic
countries such as Nepal, are Arts Center.
ALTHOUGH SHANGHAI offers a available at specialist shops
range of antiques, there on Nanjing Lu. Jewelry shops There are also concerts
are two potential hazards in abound all over the city, and every Sunday evening at the
buying them. First, the market jade, although available, is Shanghai Music Conser-
is flooded with fakes which difficult to classify. Cultured vatory Auditorium. Jazz,
visitors might mistake for the pearls however, are a safer which is most famously
available at the Peace Hotel
Jazz Bar, can also be heard at
the Cotton Club.

SHANGHAI 201

CINEMA “in” one month may close Lu’s popular Bourbon Street
down the next. Bars tend offers a live band and
APART FROM Chinese and towards the avant-garde, and dancing. Just north of Nanjing
Hong Kong films, films are heavily influenced by Xi Lu, Tongren Lu has the
from Europe and the US are what is fashionable in Tokyo, American-style bar, Malone’s
also screened in cinemas and New York, and London. Prices American Café. The upscale
bars. Halls such as UME Inter- for drinks can be high, and Xintiandi district has an good
national Cineplex, Shanghai many bars have dancing, live selection of pubs including
Film Art Center, and Studio music, film nights, and comedy the stylish Le Club at La
City show foreign films (often spots. The main streets are Maison. The Peace Hotel
censored), either in their around Huaihai Lu, especially Jazz Bar at the corner of
original language with Chinese Maoming Lu and Julu Lu, with Nanjing Dong Lu on the Bund
subtitles or dubbed into the beautiful Face, and hip is an old Shanghai classic,
Chinese with English subtitles. places such as Buddha Bar, while the Glamour Bar at the
Judy’s Too, and Pegasus. corner of Guangdong Lu is
BARS & NIGHTCLUBS The House of Blues & Jazz decorated like a 1930s
has live music, while Hollywood film set. Current
SHANGHAI’S NIGHTLIFE is lively, Goodfellas attracts a young reviews, including details of
as befits this former crowd. Close by is the smart which clubs have DJs from
“Paradise for Adventurers”. California Club in Fuxing London and New York, are to
Bars come and go, and what’s Park. To the west, Hengshan be found in that’s Shanghai.

DIRECTORY § (021) 6352 0256. § (021) 6386 8686. The Door

CLOTHES & Shanghai Museum Shanghai Music 3/F 1468 Honggiao Lu.
TEXTILES Conservatory § (021) 6295 3737.
201 Renmin Dadao. Auditorium
Friendship Store § (021) 6372 3500. Face
20 Fen Yang Lu.
68 Jinling Dong Lu. Shanghai Pearl § (021) 6437 0137. Ruijin Guesthouse,
§ (021) 6337 3555. City 118 Ruijin Er Lu.
Tianchan Yifu § (021) 6466 4328.
Isetan Shanghai Travelling Gods Theater
Bldg, 2/F 558 Nanjing Dong Glamour Bar
527 Huaihai Zhong Lu. Lu. 701 Fuzhou Lu.
§ (021) 5306 1111. § (021) 6322 3911. § (021) 6351 4668. at M on the Bund,
7/F, 20 Guangdong Lu.
Number 1 PERFORMING CINEMAS § (021) 6350 9988.
Department Store ARTS & MUSIC
Shanghai Film Art Goodfellas
830 Nanjing Dong Lu. Cotton Club Center
§ (021) 6322 3344. 907 Julu Lu.
8 Fuxing Xi Lu. 172 Xinhua Lu. § (021) 6467 0775.
W.W. Chan & Sons § (021) 6437 7110. § (021) 6280 8995.
Tailor Ltd. House of Blues
Lyceum Theater Studio City & Jazz
129-A02 Maoming Nan
Lu. 57 Maoming Nan Lu. 10/F, 1038 Nanjing Xi Lu. 158 Maoming Nan Lu.
§ (021) 5404 1469. § (021) 6217 8530. § (021) 6218 7109. § (021) 6437 5280.

Xiangyang Lu Majestic Theater UME International Judy’s Too
Clothes Market Cineplex
66 Jiang Ning Lu. 176 Maoming Nan Lu.
# daily. § (021) 6217 4409. 4/F No. 6, § (021) 6473 1417.
Lane 123, Xingye Lu.
ANTIQUES Peace Hotel Jazz § (021) 6373 3333. Le Club at La
Bar Maison
Shanghai Antique BARS &
& Curio Shop 20 Nanjing Dong Lu. NIGHTCLUBS North Block, House 23,
§ (021) 6321 6888. Xiantiandi.
218–226 Guangdong Lu. Bourbon Street § (021) 6326 0855.
§ (021) 6321 4697. Shanghai Center
191 Hengshan Lu. Malone’s
ARTS & CRAFTS 1376 Nanjing Xi Lu. § (021) 6473 7911.
§ (021) 6279 8600. 255 Tongren Lu.
Duoyun Xuan Buddha Bar § (021) 6247 2400.
Shanghai Dramatic
422 Nanjing Dong Lu. Arts Center 172 Maoming Nan Lu, Pegasus
§ (021) 6351 0060. The French Concession.
288 An Fu Lu. § (021) 6415 2688. 98 Huaihai Zhong Lu.
Room With a View § (021) 6473 4567. § (021) 5385 8187.
California Club
12/F, 479 Nanjing Dong Shanghai Grand Red
Lu. Theater 2a Gaolan Lu,
Fuxing Park. 284 An Fu Lu.
300 Renmin Dadao. § (021) 5383 2328. § (021) 5403 7297.



CENTRAL CHINA 203

JIANGSU & ANHUI

THE PROVINCES OF Jiangsu and small towns where tradi-
Anhui lie to the north
and west of Shanghai JIANGSU tional architecture can be
respectively. Jiangsu, one
of China’s most fertile and seen. Anhui’s main sights
populated areas, is largely
rural. Its southern region is ANHUI lie in the south, where vast
dominated by the Yangzi
River, along which lie the spreads of paddy fields are
major cities including Nanjing, the
provincial capital, with a profusion of watered by the Huai River.
historic sights, and the cities of Suzhou
and Yangzhou, known for their gar- The area south of the Yangzi
dens, canals, and silk production. The
province is developing fast but still River is dominated by mountain
retains its charm, especially in the
ranges offering spectacular scenery.

Huang Shan, the Yellow Mountain, is

Anhui’s most popular scenic area,

while the Buddhist mountain, Jiuhua

Shan, is more serene. The towns of

Shexian and Yixian in the southeast

are renowned for their traditional old

houses with fine wooden carvings.

SIGHTS AT A GLANCE

Towns & Cities Yangzhou 9 KEY
Bozhou q Yixian u
Changzhou 7 Zhenjiang 8 k International airport
Hefei w Zhouzhuang 3 ~ Domestic airport
Nanjing 0
Shexian y Lakes, Reserves, & Areas National highway
Suzhou 1 of Natural Beauty Major road
Tongli 2 Huang Shan pp236–7 i Minor road
Tunxi t Jiuhua Shan r Railroad
Wuhu e Tai Hu 5 Provincial border
Wuxi 4 Yixing County 6

•

Ganyu

310 Lianyun•gang
~ Xinyi •
• Xuzhou 205 •

311 • Guanyun

Huaibei •Suqian

q • Sheyang
Suzhou

Guoyang •
204
e
• • Huaiyin Yellow
Sea
Taihe • Sixian • Hongze •
Ying H • Wuhe • Hu
Mengcheng Yancheng

Xinghua

~ • Fuyang Bengbu • Huai He •MingguangGaHouyou • • Dongtai

• 9 • Rugao

Huainan Taizhou •

Chuzhou •
105
206 8 Nantong
0
(Ch an •
205
Jinzhai• 312 ~ w ~ 7 Changshu
Lu’an • Feixi • • Ma’anshan
•

104 6 4

Tongcheng • Chao Hug Jian g) e Tai 1 k•
Hu 2 Shanghai

53

Yangzi •

Xuancheng

• • Ningguo

Anqing r • Hangzhou
Po Hu

i 0 km 100
uy 0 miles 100

~t

A farmer wades through rice fields irrigated by the Yangzi River

204 CENTRAL CHINA

Suzhou 1 Y Humble Administrator’s
Garden
ANETWORK OF CANALS, bridges, and See pp206–7.
canal-side housing characterizes the
city of Suzhou. Its history dates back Y Shizi Lin

to the 6th century BC, when the first 23 Yuanlin Lu. # daily. &

canals were built to control the area’s The Lion Grove Garden is
considered by many the finest
Milefo Buddha at low water table. The construction of in Suzhou. However, visitors
the base of Beisi Ta unfamiliar with the subtleties
the Grand Canal (see p217), 1,000 of Chinese garden design may
find it rather bleak, as rocks
years later, brought prosperity as silk, are its main feature. Ornamen-
tal rocks were a crucial ele-
the city’s prized commodity, could be exported north- ment of classical gardens, and
symbolized either the earth or
wards. During the Ming dynasty, Suzhou flourished as China’s sacred mountains.
Dating to 1342, the garden
a place of refinement, drawing an influx of scholars was originally built as part of
a temple. The large pool is
and merchants, who built themselves numerous elegant spanned by a zigzag bridge
and buildings with unusually
gardens. The city has plenty of sights, and is dissected fine latticework, while part of
the rockery forms a labyrinth.
by broad, busy roads laid out in a grid.
Y Ou Yuan
p Beisi Ta E Suzhou Museum
Cang Jie. # 7:30am–5pm daily. &
1918 Renmin Lu. § (0512) 6753 204 Dongbei Jie. § (0512) 6754
The Ou Yuan (Double
1197. # daily. & 1534. # daily. & Garden) is not as busy as
many of the city’s other
The northern end of The municipal museum classical gardens, and is a
pleasure to visit. It takes its
Renmin Lu is domi- is housed in the villa name from its two garden
areas, separated by buildings
nated by the Beisi Ta which was formerly and corridors. A relaxing
place, Ou Yuan has rockeries,
(North Pagoda), a part of the adjoining a pool, and a fine, open
pavilion at its center that is
remnant of an earlier Humble Administrator’s surrounded by several tea-
houses. It is situated in a
temple complex, Garden. The villa was charming locality filled with
some of the most attractive
which has been occupied by Li houses, canals, and bridges
in the city.
rebuilt. The pagoda’s Xiucheng, one of the

main structure dates leaders of the Taiping

from the Song Heavenly Kingdom

dynasty, but its foun- Rebellion (see p422)

dations supposedly The octagonal in 1860. This rather

date to the Three Beisi Ta dry museum has no

Kingdoms era (AD English captions, and

220–265). Towering 249 ft (76 concentrates on Suzhou’s

m) high, it is octagonal in association with canal con-

shape, and has sharply struction and silk production.

upturned eaves. Visitors can Some of the exhibits, especially

climb right to the top, from the early maps, are of interest,

where there are good views but are difficult to properly

of the city, including Xuan- appreciate without captions.

miao Guan and the Ruiguang

Pagoda (see pp212–13).

E Suzhou Silk Museum The charming Ou Yuan Garden

2001 Renmin Lu. § (0512) 6753
6538. # 9am–5pm daily. &

The Suzhou Silk Museum is
a pleasure to visit, mainly
because its exhibits are well-
documented with English cap-
tions. It traces the history of
silk production (see pp208–9)
and its use from its beginnings
in about 4000 BC to the
present day. Exhibits include
old looms with demonstra-
tions of their workings, sam-
ples of ancient silk patterns,
and a section explaining the
art of sericulture. The
museum’s most interesting
exhibit is its room full of live
silk worms, eating mulberry
leaves and spinning cocoons.

SUZHOU 205

VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

32 miles (50 km) NW of
Shanghai. * 5,750,000.
£ Suzhou Train Station. c
Beimen Station, Nanmen Station,
Wu Xianshi Station. g ferries to
Hangzhou. 4 tours of Grand
Canal. n 251 Ganjiang Xi Lu
(0512) 6515 1369.

Mural in the Hall of Literary Gods, Xuanmiao Guan t Xuanmiao Guan

E Museum of Opera & and costumes. It also exhibits Guanqian Jie. § (0512) 6777 5479.
Theater other paraphernalia including # 8:30am–4:30pm daily. &
a life-size orchestra and vivid
14 Zhongzhangjia Xiang. § (0512) photographs of dramatists The Daoist Temple of Mystery
6727 3334. # daily. & and actors. Traditional Suzhou was founded during the Jin
Opera, known as kun ju, is dynasty but like many
Housed in a beautiful Ming renowned as the oldest form Chinese temples, has been
dynasty theater of latticed of Chinese opera, with a rebuilt many times. The Hall
wood, the Museum of Opera history of about 5,000 years. of the Three Pure Worshipers
and Theater (Xiqu Bowuguan) dates to the Song dynasty,
is a fascinating and highly The museum is the venue and is the largest ancient
visual museum. Its display for occasional performances, Daoist hall in China. The
halls are filled with examples while the adjacent teahouse intricate structure of the roof
of old musical instruments, stages daily shows of kun- in particular is worth scrutiny.
delicate hand-copied books style opera and music. Located in Suzhou’s com-
of scores and lyrics, masks, mercial center, the temple
was associated with popular
street entertainment, and
although the musicians and
jugglers have gone, it retains
a casual atmosphere.

SUZHOU CITY CENTER £ Bei Men

Beisi Ta 1 Tiger Hill 4 c Bus Station
XI HUI LU
Canglang Ting e Tourist Boat PINGQI LU
Pier
Confucian Temple t
4
Humble Administrator’s Garden 4 2 3 DONGBEI JIE
1
Museum of Opera & Theater 7 PINGJIANG
LU
Ou Yuan 6
Pan Men r YUANLIN LU
Shizi Lin 5 RENMIN LU 5 6
Shuang Ta 9 CANG JIE
BAI TA XI LU BAI TA DONG LU

DONG ZHONGSHI PINGJIANG LU
ZHONGJIE LU LINDUN LU
Silk Embroidery Research Xi Yuan, N 8 7
Institute q Liu Yuan,
Hanshan Si JINGDE LU GUANQIAN
Suzhou Museum 3
Suzhou Silk Museum 2 q JIE
Wangshi Yuan w
Xuanmiao Guan 8 YANGYU XIANG 0 GANJIANG DONG LU

9
CHANGXU LU FENGHUANG JIE
GANJIANG XI LU WUZHOU LU

Yi Yuan 0 800

0 meters

SHIZI JIE

KEY 0 yards 800 DAOQIAN JIE SIQIAN JIE DONG DA

£ Train station PANMEN LU e RENMIN LU SHIQUAN JIE
t
n
w

c Long distance bus station

g Ferry terminal XINSHI LU ZHUHUI LU NAN YUAN LU
4 Riverboat pier
n Tourist information JIEr c Nan Men
N Post office Bus Station

g Hangzhou Pier

NAN MEN LU

Wu Xianshi
Bus Station

206 CENTRAL CHINA

Humble Administrator’s Garden

SUZHOU’S LARGEST GARDEN, Zhuozheng Yuan,
the Humble Administrator’s Garden is also
considered the city’s finest. It was established

in the 16th century by a retired magistrate,

Wang Xian Chen, and developed over the

Tai Hu rock years as subsequent owners made changes
display according to the fashion of the day. A 16th-

century painting shows that originally the

garden was less decorative than it is now. The garden

is separated into three principal parts, east, central, and Covered walkway – a way to enjoy

west. The eastern section has colorful flowers but is the garden even in the hot sun

of less interest than the other two. There is Western section
also a museum that explains the history of the garden

and philosophy of Chinese gardens.

. Mandarin Duck Hall Wavy Corridor rises up
Split into two equal rooms, and down over the water
this arrangement allowed as if going over waves.
visitors to enjoy the cooler
north-facing chamber in The central part
summer, and the warmer of the garden imitates the
south-facing one in winter. scenery of China south
of the lower Yangzi.
STAR SIGHTS

. Fragrant Isle

. Mandarin Duck Hall

. Hall of Distant
Fragrance

. Fragrant Isle
This pavilion and terrace is

supposed to resemble the
deck and cabin of a boat. As
it projects out over the water,
it gives excellent views of the

garden from all sides.

SUZHOU 207

THE HUMBLE ADMINISTRATOR’S GARDEN VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

4 178 Dongbei Jie, Suzhou City.
§ (0512) 6751 0286. ª
# 7:30am–5:30pm daily (last
admission 5pm). & includes the
Garden Museum. - =
∑ www.zhuozhengyuan.com.cn

2

Area illustrated below

1 Entrance 3 1
2 Eastern Garden 100
0 meters 300
3 Garden Museum 0 feet

4 Penjing Nursery (see p179)

Orange Pavilion
Artificial mountains

were an important
element in Chinese
gardens and were ideal
for contemplation.

Little Flying Entrance to the
Rainbow central section
Bridge

Secluded Pavilion of Firmiana
Simplex and Bamboo

The most famous view of the
garden, the“borrowed view”

(see p179) of Beisi Ta, the
Northern Pagoda reflected in
the water, is visible from here.

. Hall of Distant Fragrance
The main hall of the garden, it
is named after the perfume of
the large lotus pond nearby
that delicately wafts in.

208 CENTRAL CHINA

The History of Chinese Silk

ACCORDING TO LEGEND it was the Empress Xi Ling who,
in 2640 BC, encouraged silkworm breeding on a large
scale. Trading vast quantities of the material around the
world, China profited massively from the industry. It
remained a Chinese monopoly for the next 3,000 years
or so until refugees smuggled the secret to Korea and
Japan. Another story tells that a Chinese princess
who married the Prince of Khotan secretly brought
silkworms with her as a gift for her husband. The
Statue of a western world, which knew China as Seres, or Land
silkworker, of Silk, learnt the secret of silk production via two
Silk Museum monks, who hid silkworms in their bamboo staffs. Silk burial offering

dating from c.200 BC

IMPERIAL GIFT

Silk was originally reserved
for use by the imperial household,
an example of which is this gorgeous
robe embroidered with the imperial symbol
of the five-clawed dragon. The imperial
yellow symbolizes the earth.

Silk was traded (see pp464–5) extensively
as an important source of income and indeed
was often used as a form of payment of
taxes or for payment of salaries.

This traditional
pattern suggests
waves and mountains
and therefore the
boundless nature of
the Chinese empire.

Justinian was the Women produced silk in their
Byzantine emperor who own home – and it took up a large
stole the secret of silk in part of the day for six months of
AD 600. Silk had for long the year. The state also had many
been fashionable in the workshops producing and weaving
Roman Empire but they silk. By the Tang dynasty all
had no idea how it was classes of society in China were
made, even thinking allowed to wear silk.
that it grew on trees.

JIANGSU & ANHUI 209

THE PRODUCTION OF SILK

Thousands of years of intensive breeding have rendered
the silk moth, Bombyx mori, a blind, flightless, egg-laying
machine whose larvae hold the secret of silk. The genius
of the Chinese lay in the discovery of the potential of its
ancestor, a wild, mulberry-eating moth unique to China.

Silk embroidery became
an important art and the
women of distinguished
families could make a
considerable fortune by
skilful embroidery.

Farming silkworms: the eggs are first kept at 65º F (18º C)
rising to 77º F (25º C), at which point they hatch. The silkworms
(actually caterpillars) are now kept at a constant temperature
and fed mulberry leaves at 30-minute intervals day and night,
until fattened they are ready to enter the cocoon stage.

MEANING OF SYMBOLS Silken saliva: the silkworms’ Cocoons: when they are
saliva glands secrete a clear ready to pupate, with a figure-
Axe is one of the liquid, that solidifies into silk of-eight motion, they spin their
twelve symbols of threads as it dries, and a gum sticky secretion into cocoons.
sovereignty that that sticks these together.
were reserved for
the emperor. The axe stands Making silk: the
for the power to punish. cocoons are steamed
to kill the pupae and
Bat is not only
for emperors but soaked to soften the
is a lucky symbol sticky gum and allow
for everyone. The
Chinese word for bat (fu) the silk strands to be
also sounds like good luck. separated. Several
strands are woven to
Double chi is make one silk thread.
another of the
twelve imperial
symbols that
represents the emperor’s
power to judge his subjects.

Chinoiserie was popular China’s silk industry is
in Europe and America still strong today although
at various times from the a lot of the “silk” that is on
17th century onwards. display in cheap markets is
Chinese factories created actually rayon.
a range of Chinese-style
designs solely for export.

Silk has special qualities
in that it retains
warmth, and yet is
lightweight and cool

and can therefore be
worn in comfort both in
winter and summer.

210 CENTRAL CHINA

fisherman. Dating to 1140, it
was completely remodeled in
1770 and for many people, is
the finest of all Suzhou’s
gardens. Although excep-
tionally small, it succeeds,
with great subtlety, in intro-
ducing every element consid-
ered crucial to the classical
garden (see pp178–9). It
includes a central lake, dis-
creet connecting corridors,
pavilions with miniature
courtyards, screens, delicate
latticework, and above all,
points which “frame a view”,
as if looking at a perfectly
balanced photograph. The
best known building is the
Pavilion for Watching the
Moon, from where the moon
can be viewed in a mirror, in
the water, and in the sky.
Regular evening performances
of Chinese opera, including
local kun ju, take place here.

The octagonal Song dynasty twin pagodas, Shuang Ta Y Canglang Ting

p Shuang Ta the Fragrant Lotus Pavilion, 3 Canglang Ting Jie, Renmin Lu.
while another pavilion that § (0512) 6519 4375. # daily. &
Dinghui Si Xiang. # daily. & juts into the pool is known
for catching cooling breezes. The Dark Blue Wave Pavilion
Once part of a temple, these Look out for the calligraphy Garden – whose name is
98-ft (30-m) high twin pago- by famous scholars and poets. suggestive of a relaxed and
das date to the early Song era. pragmatic approach to life –
According to a recently dis- E Silk Embroidery is perhaps Suzhou’s oldest
covered inscription, they were Research Institute garden, first laid out in 1044
first built in AD 982 by the by a scholar, Su Zimei, on the
students Wang Wenhan and 280 Jingde Lu. # daily. & site of an earlier villa. His
his brother in honor of their successor, a general in the
teacher, who helped them Housed in the Huan Xiu Shan imperial army, enlarged it in
pass the imperial civil service Zhuang Garden (Surrounded the 12th century, and it was
exams. Twin pagodas are by Majestic Mountains), this rebuilt in the 17th century. It
commonly found in India but institute creates exquisitely is known for its technique of
are a rarer feature of Chinese fine silk embroidery, work “borrowing a view”, allowing
temples, as pagodas were that is mainly done by women. the scenery beyond the
largely built as single edifices. In order to produce the garden’s confines to play a
painting-like effect of their role in its design. Here, it is
Y Yi Yuan designs, the women some- achieved by lowering walls
times work with silk strands
343 Renmin Lu. # 7:30am–midnight that are so fine, they are The Pavilion for Watching the
daily. & almost invisible. They Moon, Wangshi Yuan
specialize in double-sided
The Garden of Happiness is embroidery – for example, a
one of Suzhou’s newer gar- cat with green eyes on one
dens, dating from the late side and blue on the other.
Qing dynasty. It was built by
a government official who Y Wangshi Yuan
utilized rocks and landscape
designs from other aban- Kuojia Xiang. § (0512) 6520 3514.
doned gardens. The garden # 7:30am–5pm daily. &
appears to have originally
covered a larger area; today It is said that the Master of
its central feature is a pool the Nets Garden was named
encircled by rockeries and after one of its owners – a
spanned by a zigzag bridge. retired official who wished to
The best viewpoint is from become an accomplished

SUZHOU 211

constructed (959–961) were
discovered during one of the
attempts to prevent it from
falling. The park is quite
large, with pools and flower-
beds filled with blooms in
spring and early summer. One
of the many boulders is split
in two, allegedly the result of
He Lu’s swordsmanship. He is
supposedly buried nearby
along with 3,000 swords.

t Hanshan Si

24 Hanshansi Long. § (0512) 6723

2891. # 7:30am–5pm daily. &

Gateway to the Confucian Temple First constructed in the Liang

on the north side of some of dynasty, the Cold Mountain
the pavilions, allowing views
across water; elsewhere the 1229. Also on display is a star Temple was named after a
southwest hills can be seen.
The central feature is a mound chart dating from 1247 that Tang-dynasty poet-monk. A
that is meant to resemble a
wooded hill. Gardens were maps the positions of stars stone rendition of him and his
ideal places for contemplation
and writing poetry, clearly and celestial bodies in the fellow monk, Shi De, is to be
visible in the engravings of
verses and poems dotting heavens. It is one of the earli- seen here. The temple was
Canglang Ting.
est surviving maps of its kind. rebuilt in the 19th century,
Y Liu Yuan & Xi Yuan
after it was destroyed during
Liu Yuan 338 Liuyuan Lu. § (0512)
6533 7903. # 7:45am–4:30pm daily. Y Tiger Hill the Taiping Rebellion. Located
& Xi Yuan Xiyuan Lu. § (0512)
6533 4126. # 5:30am–7pm daily. & Huqiu Lu. § (0512) 6723 2305. close to the Grand Canal, it

Originally a pair, these two # 7:30am–5pm daily. & was immortalized
gardens lie near each other to
the west of the old moated In the city’s by the Tang-
area. The Liu Yuan (Garden
for Lingering in), was restored northwest is the dynasty poet Zhang
in 1953, and its four scenic
areas are connected by a long popular Tiger Hill Ji, who arrived here
corridor. The Xi Yuan (West
Garden) once belonged to a (Huqiu Shan), the by boat and
devout Buddhist, and is more
temple than garden. The burial place of He anchored nearby.
Jiechang Temple, with its tiled
roof and red beams is a fine Lu, the King of Wu His poem “Anchored
example of southern style
architecture. Adjoining it is the and founder of at Night by the Maple
Hall of Five Hundred Louhan.
Suzhou. His spirit is Bridge” is inscribed on

said to be guarded by a stone stele, and

a white tiger who Ceremonial urn, contains the lines that

appeared three days Tiger Hill made Hanshan Si

after his death and famous: “Beyond

refused to leave. Suzhou lies Hanshan Temple;

The main attraction is the at midnight the clang of the

Song-dynasty leaning pagoda bell reaches the traveler’s

(Yunyan Ta or Cloud Rock boat.” The bell alluded to

Pagoda), built in brick, which here was subsequently lost,

leans more than 7-ft (2-m) and the temple’s current bell

from the perpendicular at its was presented by Japan in

highest point. Some 10th- 1905. Nearby, a beautiful

century Buddhist sutras and a arched bridge offers views

record of the year that it was along the Grand Canal.

P Pan Men Scenic Area
See pp212–13.

t Confucian Temple Incense burners in the grounds of Hanshan Si

Renmin Lu. # daily. &

The original Song dynasty
temple was rebuilt in 1864
after it was destroyed in the
Taiping Rebellion (see p422).
Its main hall, dating from the
Ming dynasty, has several
stone carvings including
China’s oldest surviving city
map, depicting Suzhou, or
Pingjiang as it was known in

212 CENTRAL CHINA

Pan Men Scenic Area

SET IN THE southwest corner of Suzhou, this Hall of Attractive Scenery
once overlooked area has been extensively This three-story pavilion
restored – gone are the pretty canalside houses a tranquil tea room
with views to the platform of
shacks – but it still contains some of the the Western Stage in front.
city’s most interesting historical sights. Pan
Men is a unique fortified gate that once
controlled access to the city by both land
Stone Buddha, and water. It is said to date back nearly
Ruigang Pagoda 700 years, although most of the present
construction is much more recent. Other
highlights include the charming Wu Men Bridge and the
views of the city and canals from the Ruigang Pagoda.

. Pan Men
This gate and attached section
of wall (dating back to 1351)
are all that remains of the
city’s ancient fortifications.
It is the only land and
water gate in China.

Wu Zixu's
Memorial
Temple

Double- STAR SIGHTS . Wu Men Bridge
doored This graceful bridge spanning the Grand
water gate . Wu Men Bridge Canal is the tallest in Suzhou and its design
. Pan Men dates back to the Song dynasty, although it
. Ruigang Pagoda has since been rebuilt a few times. It has steps
built into it and a lovely view from the top.

SUZHOU 213

VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

2 Dong Da Lu, SW corner of the
city. ª @ from the train
station. # 8am–5pm daily. &
for scenic area (inc. Pan Men and
Wu Men Bridge), separate fee
for Ruigang Pagoda. - ( 9
∑

View from Ruigang Pagoda Entrance Gate
After a climb up narrow stairs, looking down into the heart This is the main entrance
of Suzhou itself reveals a city dotted with large pockets of to the park. Pay here for
green – the beautiful gardens that have made the
city so famous. access to the park and
also a separate fee to
climb the pagoda.

Ornamental
pailou or gate

300-ft (90-m) . Ruigang Pagoda
section of This seven-story, 140-ft (43-m)
city wall high pagoda dates back to the
Song dynasty. It is constructed

of brick with wooden
platforms, and has simple
Buddhist carvings at its base.

Hall of Four Auspicious Merits
The name of this hall is inspired
by Buddhist teachings. At each
side of the hall at the end of
covered walkways are smaller
pavilions, one containing a drum
and the other a bell.





216 CENTRAL CHINA

Houses fronting canals in Zhouzhuang’s old town due to its location on the
Grand Canal. Xihui Park in
Tongli 2 Zhouzhuang 3 the west of town was estab-
lished in 1958, and houses
the Jichang Yuan garden. At
the park’s entrance, a path
leads to the Dragon Light
Pagoda on top of Xi Shan. A
cable car connects Xi Shan to
nearby Hui Shan. The Wuxi
Museum has exhibits dating
back 6,000 years, and includes
some Qing-dynasty cannons.

Y Xihui Park

Huihe Lu. # daily. &

E Wuxi Museum

71 Huihe Lu. # daily. &

16 miles (25 km) SE of Suzhou. 12 miles (20 km) W of Shanghai. The scenic cable car ride, Xihui
* 45,000. c * 32,000. c Shanghai, Suzhou. Park, Wuxi
4 to Tongli. Old Town tickets from
APRETTY LITTLE water town Quangong Lu. § (0512) 6721 1655. Tai Hu 5
typical of the region,
Tongli gives visitors a good ASMALL TOWN ON the Jinghang 3 miles (5 km) SW of Wuxi.
idea of what Suzhou must Canal, which links Suzhou
have been like in its heyday. and Shanghai, Zhouzhuang ONE OF CHINA’S largest lakes,
All its houses open out on to was once a flourishing port, Tai Hu is famous for its
a network of canals that are specializing in silk, pottery, rocks, an indispensable fea-
spanned by dozens of stone and grain. It attracted scholars ture of a traditional garden
bridges and are busy with and officials who built fine (see pp178–9). The lake’s
transportation and trading bridges and houses between northern shores are fringed
boats. Some of its buildings the Yuan and Qing eras. The with scenic spots including
are open to the public, such charming Old Town can be Mei Yuan (Plum Garden),
as Jiayin Hall, the former explored on foot or via a boat spectacular in spring when its
home of Liu Yazi, an early tour on the canals. Among 4,000 fruit trees blossom.
20th-century actor renowned the sights are the Ming-era Yuantou Zhu (Turtle Head
for his rather bizarre collec- Hall of Zhang Residence with Promontory) is a favorite with
tion of gauze caps. The other 70 rooms, and the Hall of the Chinese, with tea houses
interesting sight is Tuisi Shen’s Residence, with 100 and pretty lake views. Nearby,
Yuan, a classical garden dat- rooms connected to the main Sanshan Island is a former
ing from the late Qing period. hall. The Chengxu Temple, bandit’s haunt with temples
located near the museum, is a and tall Buddha statues. How-
Y Tuisi Yuan Song-dynasty Daoist shrine. ever, none is as tall as the
289-ft (88-m) Lingshan Buddha
# 7:45am–5pm daily. & Wuxi 4 on Ma Shan peninsula, a short
bus ride from the other sights.
25 miles (40 km) NW of Suzhou. The area also has a handful of
* 4,320,000. £ c 4 services to lakeside theme parks.
Hangzhou & Suzhou. n 88 Chezhan
Lu. § (0510) 230 8335. Y Mei Yuan & Yuantou Zhu

Sightseeing boats on one of THE HIGHLIGHTS OF A trip to # 7am–5pm daily. &
Tongli’s numerous canals Wuxi are the scenic Tai
Hu (Lake Tai) and the Grand
Canal. According to legend,
the town was established
3,500 years ago as the capital
of the Wu Kingdom and was a
center for the production of
tin. When the mines ran dry
(Wuxi means “without tin”),
the capital moved west, but
Wuxi remained significant

Waterside pavilion in the Humble Administrator’s Garden, Suzhou

JIANGSU & ANHUI 217

Grand Canal

The Grand Canal, started emperor, involving over
in 486 BC, was built in 5 million conscripted males

sections over the next one aged between 15 and 55,

thousand years, with the supervised by a vast and

aims of linking the Yangzi Boat for canal cruises brutal police force. Linking
with the Yellow River, and the comparatively populous

one capital with another. It remains north with the southern rice producing

the world's largest man-made region, it reached Beijing only in the

waterway. The earliest northern 13th century. In the early 20th century,

section was built for military reasons a combination of the altered course of

but large-scale construction began in the fickle Yellow River and the rise of

the 7th century under the Sui Wendi the railways saw its gradual demise.

• This map shows the
route of the 1,112-mile
Beijing (1,900-km) canal from
Beijing to Hangzhou.
• Crossing the traditional
battlefields between
Tianjin Bo Hai north and south, the
canal supplied food
Jinan Ri v er throughout the empire.
•llow The hilly terrain led to
Y the first recorded use of
YeGr Yellow double-locks in AD 984.
Sea
and Can KEY
al
Grand Canal
H uai He •Yangzhou

• Suzhou

Nanjing

•

angzi •

Shanghai

• The Sui Yandi emperor is said to
have celebrated the completion of
Hangzhou his work by touring the canal with
a flotilla of dragon boats hauled by
the empire’s most beautiful women.

Tourist boats are now the only way to enjoy a journey on
the canal as road and rail transport is favored by the locals.
Regular tourist boats operate overnight services between
Hangzhou and Suzhou or Wuxi, whilst boats can also be
chartered for day-trips between the major tourist stops.

Barges splutter their way along the
canal laden with agricultural produce
and factory supplies. The busiest sec-
tions are in the south and north of the
Yangzi to the border with Shandong.

The canal banks are lively with people
performing domestic tasks. Families,
even if they have houses on shore, may
live on board when they are working.

218 CENTRAL CHINA

Zhenjiang 8

Pottery shop selling typical ceramic items, Ding Shan 31 miles (50 km) E of Suzhou.
* 3,000,000. £ c
Yixing County 6 Hall of the Sea Dragon King, n 92 Zhongshan Xi Lu.
that can hold several thou-
25 miles (40 km) SW of Suzhou. c sand people, while Linggu ATTRACTIVELY SET on the
bus service between Wuxi & Yixing. has an underground waterfall. banks of the Yangzi River,
Zhenjiang’s prosperity was
THE COUNTY’S main town, E Pottery Exhibition Hall linked to the construction of
Yixing, is a busy transport the Grand Canal (see p217).
hub that provides connections 150 Ding Shan Beilu. # daily. & In the 19th century, the city
to the entire region. This fer- was ceded to foreign powers.
tile area of canals and farm- T Karst Caves The former Royal Hotel is a
land is known for its pottery, fine example of European pas-
produced at Ding Shan for # daily. & tiche, while the old British
3,000 years. Its name yixing Consulate now houses the
or “purple sand” is derived Changzhou 7 Zhenjiang Museum. Its
from its distinctive deep mar- exhibits include the anchor of
oon color. The town’s streets 25 miles (40 km) NW of Wuxi. the Amethyst, the British ship
are lined with factories and * 650,000. £ c that sailed upriver in 1949 to
pottery shops, the latter full of bring aid to the British in
items such as traditional little OFTEN OVERLOOKED, this city Nanjing. After coming under
pots in all shapes and sizes. on the Grand Canal is heavy fire, it ran aground,
Ding Shan’s tourist office also worth visiting for its old cen- and was stranded for months.
organizes factory visits. ter, crisscrossed by streets of The ship finally made a dash
traditional houses and canals. for freedom, and miraculously,
A short journey from town, The two main streets, Bei and managed to rejoin its fleet.
the Pottery Exhibition Hall Nan Dajie, are lined with
displays a range of objects, shops selling silks and the To the museum’s west, Jin
from fine, early Yixingware to locally-made painted combs. Shan Park is the site of the
the prized miniature teapots. The 7th-century Tianning Si Jin Shan Temple, founded in
Nearby are the Karst Caves, has 83 Buddha statues deco- the Eastern Jin dynasty, and
comprising three groups – rating its roof, while the the Cishou Pagoda, one of a
Zhanggong, Linggu, and Song-era Yizhou Pavilion is pair built in the Tang era. The
Shanjuan. The highlight of associated with the poet Su climb to the top reveals splen-
Zhanggong’s 72 caves is the Dongpo, who stayed here did views of the Yangzi. To the
when he visited the city. city’s northeast lies Beigu Shan
hill with its beautiful Lingyun
Ting pagoda. Farther east is
Jiao Shan, an island famed for
its scenery, accessible by cable
car or boat. Above the island’s
fortifications, Xijiang Lou tower
offers fine views of the river.

E Zhenjiang Museum

85 Boxian Lu. # daily. &

Y Jin Shan Park

62 Jinshan Xilu. # daily. &

The southern-style Tianning Si (Temple of Heavenly Peace), Changzhou

JIANGSU & ANHUI 219

Calligraphy

CALLIGRAPHY RAISES ordinary viewer, taught from a young age
Chinese script into a high art the basic sequence of strokes, can

form and is traditionally regarded as mentally trace the characters as

highly as painting or poetry as a they were created by the artists

method of self-expression. The and so experience their spiritual

beauty of calligraphy may seem Decorative world. As they are limited to the
ink stone
hard to appreciate for most same eight strokes, the artists’

visitors who do not read individual styles – the variations

Chinese. Freestyle calligraphy, in stroke weight, angle, and vigor – are

however, which transforms ordinary easily appreciated. Experts consider the

characters almost into figurative and balance and proportional weight of the

abstract paintings, can easily be strokes, the structure of the character

appreciated for its artistry. The Chinese and its unity and harmony.

THE FOUR TREASURES Ink sticks are made from
soot – pine wood or tung oil
The main tools of the calligrapher are
known as “The Four Treasures of the – mixed with glue and
Study” – ink sticks, ink stone, brushes, even spices. Inks are
and paper. Anhui is especially famed
for the quality of its ink and brushes. usually black although
colors are available.

Each character is Thinner dashes
made up of eight types look less crowded
of stroke performed in
a set order.

The seal is carefully The ink stone is used to
positioned on the grind the ink stick with
page. The cinnabar the right amount of water.
ink stamp may be the A thick ink is glossy and
name of the artist strong, while thin ink can
or some poetry. be lively or subtle.

Graceful Finely tapered
downstroke hook stroke
to the left
Paper, invented around
Brush rests were used to AD 100, was made from
hold other brushes or so the mulberry or bamboo fibers.
artist could put down his Much cheaper than the silk
brush and contemplate. it replaced, paper is classed
by its weight, as this affects
how fast it absorbs the ink.

Brushes permitted greater Practice is crucial. The
freedom for expression than hand must always know
what it is about to do; there
engraving bone or stone is no room for indecision.
(see p26) and led to more There are three levels of
practice – tracing, copying
fluid scripts. Supposedly and working from memory.
made from many varieties Each step up allows the artist
to add more individuality.
of fur, the tip should be
round yet pointed, even

and strong.

220 CENTRAL CHINA

Yangzhou 9 and bridges. The handsome
Wuting Qiao (Five Pavilion
ONE OF THE YANGZI RIVER delta’s great cities, Bridge) is its most famous
Yangzhou has always been known for its structure, built by a salt mer-
prosperity and culture. Its location on the chant in 1757 to honor the
Qianlong emperor’s visit to
Grand Canal dictated the rise and fall of its Yangzhou. To the west is
fortunes. The city declined with the fall of Ershisi Qiao (Twenty-Four
the Song dynasty and the diminished use of Bridge), so called because its
Pagoda, the canal, but revived again in the Ming era, 24 archways could be appre-
Daming Si when the canal was restored and used to ciated 24 hours a day. Bai Ta
transport silk, rice, and salt. The salt mer- (White Dagoba) is a Tibetan-
chants in particular built elegant villas and gardens, espe- style stupa, modeled on the
cially in the 18th century when Yangzhou was part of one in Beijing’s Beihai Park
the imperial inspection tours. Despite development, the (see p90). In the Xu Garden,
city has much to offer, including its several gardens. the Listening to Orioles
Pavilion has fine woodwork,
while the Pinyuan Lou offers
views that supposedly demon-
strate the rules of perspective
as compiled by the Song artist,
Guo Xi. East of the lake, the
Imperial Jetty is where Qian-
long’s barge was moored.

A fruit stall among the historic architecture on Dong Guan Jie E Yangzhou Museum

t Daming Si the king’s living quarters, and Near Tianlin Si. § (0514) 734 4585.
the fifth level, a coffin on # 8:30am–11am, 1pm–5pm daily.
1 Pingshan Tang. § (0514) 734 wheels. The tomb was equip-
0720. # 8am–4.45pm daily. & ped with every imaginable This museum is housed in a
luxury, including a bathroom. temple that was built in 1772
Sitting atop a hill, the Temple in memory of a Ming official
of Abundant Light dates to Y Shou Xi Hu who refused to surrender the
the 5th century AD, but was city to the Qing rulers. On dis-
rebuilt after being destroyed 28 Da Hongqiao Lu. § (0514) 734 play are some splendid items,
in the Taiping Rebellion (see 1324. # 6:30am–5pm daily. & including an ancient boat sal-
p422). The central Jian Zhen vaged from the Grand Canal,
Hall was erected in 1973 in Yangzhou’s most popular sight, and a burial suit made of jade.
honor of the monk, Jian Zhen, the Thin West Lake is a slim
who traveled to Japan in 753. version of Hangzhou’s famous Y Ge Yuan
Credited with introducing West Lake (see pp242–3). It
many aspects of Chinese cul- winds through a park filled 10 Yanfu Dong Lu. § (0514) 734
ture to Japan, he is revered with willow trees, pavilions, 7428. # 7:30am–5pm daily. &
by the Japanese, who funded
the main hall’s construction, Yangzhou’s most famous
and modeled it on the Tosho- garden, Ge Yuan was once
dai Temple in Nara, Japan. owned by the painter Shi Tao,
Nearby is a natural spring and later by a salt merchant.
with an adjoining teahouse. Its name derives from the
leaves of its bamboo plants,
that resemble the character
“ge” meaning “self”. Its central
feature is its rockeries, but it
also has some fine pavilions.

E Hanlinyuan Museum Wuting Qiao (Five Pavilion Bridge), Shou Xi Hu Gongyuan

Xiangbie Lu. # 8:30am–5pm daily. &

The magnificent Western Han
tomb of Liu Xu, ruler of the
Guangling Kingdom, is five
levels deep. Its second air-tight
layer comprises 840 nanmu
(cedar) bricks joined by hooks.
The third level housed the
warehouse, the fourth level

JIANGSU & ANHUI 221

E Wang Shi Xiao Yuan VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

14 Dongquan Men Lishi Jiequ. 37 miles (60 km) NE of Nanjing.
# 8am–5pm daily. & * 4,500,000. c East Bus
Station, West Bus Station. n 99
Located on a street of historic Daxue Bei Lu, (0514) 734 5746.
homes including that of for-
mer president Jiang Zemin, the with some pavilions decorated
grand Wang Shi Xiao Yuan in southern-style lattice work,
was the residence of a wealthy although northern influences
salt merchant. Dating to the prevail in its overall layout
Qing era, it has nearly 100 and style. A few teahouses
rooms. The interior is lavishly also dot the garden.
furnished, and its main Spring
Hall contains a German chan-
delier and marble wall panels.

M Garden Tomb of The Tang-dynasty Shi Ta or P Wenchang Ge
Puhaddin The round Wenchang Ge
Stone Pagoda (Promoting Literature Pavilion)
17 Jiefang Nan Lu. § (0514) 722 is all that remains of the old
2241. # 8am–5pm daily. Y He Yuan Confucian Academy. Founded
by the first Ming emperor,
Said to be the 16th descendant 77 Xuning Men Jie. § (0514) 723 Hongwu, who believed in
of the Prophet Mohammed, 9626. # 7:30am–6pm daily. & education for all, the academy
Puhaddin was a teacher who originally had two pavilions.
lived in Yangzhou until his This small garden creates an To the north, the Si Wang
death in 1275. His grave is illusion of space and depth Ting (Pavilion of the Four
enclosed in a building filled by the clever arrangement of Views) was a part of the
with inscriptions from the holy its features, including shrubs, Ming-era Provincial College,
Koran. Other noted Muslim trees, and a walkway. Named and was used as an observa-
figures from the Song and after one of its 19th-century tory. Lying west of Wenchang
Ming eras are buried nearby. owners, it is divided in two, Ge, the Tang-dynasty Shi Ta
Puhaddin also built the tiny (Stone Pagoda) was once part
Xianhe Mosque, located of a temple located outside
southwest on Ganquan Lu. Its the city walls. It was moved
wall is covered in arabesques, here in the Song era.
a legacy of the Persian traders
who once frequented the city.

2

YANGZHOU CITY CENTER 1

Daming Si 1 HANGOU LU
Garden Tomb of Puhaddin 7
Ge Yuan 5 YOUYI LU LAOHUSHAN LU
Hanlinyuan Museum 2 SHIKEFA LU
He Yuan 9 C H A N G CH Old Grand Canal
Shi Ta w LU HUAIHAI LU MEILING LU
Shou Xi Hu 3 UN
Si Wang Ting q 3
Wang Shi Xiao Yuan 6
Wenchang Ge 0 n YANFU LU
Xianhe Mosque 8 4
Yangzhou Museum 4 WENHE BEI GUOQING LU 5
YANFU LULU
KEY DONG GUAN JIE
q
c Long distance bus station
WENCHANG XI LU N6 JIEFANG NAN LU7
n Tourist information 0 WENCHANG ZHONG LU TAIZHO U LU
DAXUE BEI LU w
N Post office WENHE NAN LU
8 DUJIANG LU GUANGLING LU

GANQUAN LU

0 km WENHUI DONG LU 9 ONG LU
0 miles
1 NANTONG LU
Old Grand Canal

West c East Bus GYANG D
Bus Station Station
1 JIANGYANG DONG LU
JIA N

222 CENTRAL CHINA

Nanjing 0 1864. On display are weapons
and uniforms, samples of
OF ALL CHINA’S GREAT CITIES, Nanjing or Nanking, Taiping currency, and
as it was once known, is the most attractive. documents explaining the
The capital of Jiangsu province, it is pictures- Heavenly ideology, which
quely set on the banks of the Yangzi, close to aimed to change China’s feu-
the magnificent Purple Mountain. This city of dalistic society into one based
lakes is still enclosed within its grand city wall, on equality. Their aims inclu-
and its streets are shaded by plane trees. Mean- ded the modernization of the
ing “southern capital,” it was the capital of education system that was still
Statue, several regional kingdoms up to AD 220. Later, based on Confucian classics,
Fuzi Miao it was China’s capital under the early Ming. It the redistribution of land, and
equality of the sexes.
was also the capital of the 19th-century Taiping
Heavenly Kingdom and the first Chinese Republic under Y Bailuzhou Park
Dr. Sun Yat Sen. Today, Nanjing is a fast developing
city, with good restaurants and a lively nightlife. # daily. &

The White Egret Park was
once the property of the Ming
general Xu Da, and subse-
quently became the Chinese
quarter during the centuries
of Manchu rule. The pavilions
were all destroyed during the
Taiping Rebellion but the
park was restored in 1951,
and the area still abounds in
traditional houses.

Garden and pavilions at the Taiping Heavenly Kingdom History Museum t Fuzi Miao

Exploring Nanjing Ming emperor, Hongwu. Gongyuan Lu. § (025) 8662 8639.
Although the medieval city Today, the halls are filled # 8am–9:30pm daily. &
walls give the impression that with memorabilia and pho-
Nanjing is a small city, it is in tographs relating to the rebel- The origins of Fuzi Miao
fact fairly spread out. A lot of lion, which overran large (Temple of Confucius) go
ground can be covered on parts of China. After the back to AD 1034, while the
foot, but visitors will also rebels claimed Nanjing as their current buildings date to the
need to use the city’s local base, they came very close to late 19th century, with recent
transport, either the compre- toppling the Qing dynasty in additions. The temple was the
hensive bus service or taxis, Beijing, but were eventually seat of Confucian study for
which are plentiful and defeated by the Qing army more than 1,500 years. Its
reasonably priced. under Western leadership in halls feature a small exhi-
bition of folk arts. The sur-
rounding streets are flanked
by houses with long upturned
eaves and whitewashed walls
– many of which are being
restored in typical southern
style. Nearby, the attractive
canal bank has plenty of
boats that ply the short
distance to Zhonghua Gate.

P Zhonghua Gate
See pp224–5.

E Taiping Heavenly The distinctive double-eaved main hall of the Fuzi Miao
Kingdom History Museum

128 Zhanyuan Lu. § (025) 8662
3024. # daily. &

This museum commemorates
the anti-dynastic Taiping
Heavenly Kingdom Rebellion
of 1851–64 (see p422). The
building was used by one of
the rebellion’s leaders, or
Heavenly Princes, while one
section – the Zhan or
Enthusiasm Garden – origi-
nally belonged to the first

NANJING 223

P Chaotian Gong Detail from the Sun Yat Sen Hall, VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Tianchao Gong
Mochou Lu. § (025) 8446 6460. 125 miles (200 km) NW of
# 8am–4pm daily. & Court Rites animals and birds – are more Shanghai. * 5,350,000. ~ £
interesting for their historical Main Train Station, West Train
Display 11:15am–12:15pm daily. associations than for their deft Station. c Zhongyang Men
execution. Station, Hanfu Jie Station, CAAC
The substantial Chaotian Gong (buses to airport), East Bus Station.
(Heaven Palace) was once a PTianchao Gong & Xu Yuan g to Shanghai, Wuhan &
place of ancestor worship, a Chongqing. n 202/1 Zhongshan
seat of learning, and a Confu- 292 Changjiang Lu. § (025) 8454 Bei Lu, (025) 8342 8999.
cian temple. Its mid-19th 2362. # 9am–5pm daily. &
century buildings such as (Balmy Garden), were
halls, towers, and walkways, The Tianchao Gong originally built by a Ming
stand on an ancient temple (Heavenly Kingdom Palace), prince. Under the Qing
site dating to AD 390. It now together with the surrounding dynasty, it became the seat of
houses the Municipal Museum, classical Xu Yuan Garden provincial government until
displaying Shang bronzes and 1853, when it was seized by
fragments of the legendary the leader of the Taiping
porcelain pagoda, destroyed Rebellion, Hong Xiuquan, as
in the Taiping Rebellion. The his headquarters. Finally, after
pagoda was built in the 15th the overthrow of the Qing
century by the Ming Yongle empire, the palace housed the
emperor to honor his mother, Republican Government, from
and was covered in glazed where both Dr. Sun Yat Sen
white bricks. There are daily and Chiang Kai Shek ruled
shows of Ming-dynasty Court China. Inside, there is an
Rites in the palace square. exhibition devoted to the
Taiping Rebellion and to Dr.
Nearby along Tangzi Jie, Sun Yat Sen. The surrounding
house No. 74 has colorful Xu Yuan Garden is a popular
paintings dating to the Taiping weekend spot with the locals.
occupation that were discov-
ered in 1952. The house was
occupied by a follower of the
Taiping Eastern Prince, Yang
Xiuqing. The paintings – of

NANJING CITY CENTER w GREAT 0 km 1
BRIDGE

PARK

Bailuzhou Park 3 Ya n g z i West Train SHUIJI GONG LU 0 miles 1
Chaotian Gong 5 Station
Fuzi Miao 4
£ HENGHE LU
C
JIANLGUBIAN
Drum & Bell Towers qg JIANNING LU Main Train
Meiyuan Xincun 7 Station

Memorial to the Nanjing ZHONGSHAN BEI LU £

Zhongyang Men c LONGPANQLiUxia Si &Thousand
Bus Station Buddha Cliffs

Massacre r BEI LUZHO n ZHONGYANG LU
Ming Palace Ruins 8 NGSHAN
HUJU BEI LU East Bus
Mochou Lake e
Nanjing Yangzi River Bridge w XIN MOFAN MALU Station
Provincial Museum 9 HUNAN LU
Taiping Heavenly Kingdom MXOIFALUN MZOHFOLAUNNG Purple
Mountain

0

History Museum 2 YUNNAN
LU
Tianchao Gong & Xu Yuan 6 BEIJING XI LU q BEI'AN BEI JEI
Xuanwu Lake 0 ZHONGSHAN
Zhonghua Gate 1 LU N BEIJING DONG LU
E TAIPING BEI LU
SHANGHAI LU
NATIONAL NINGHAI LU H ZLHOONNGGPALNU
DEFENCE
HUJU LU
PARK QINGLIANG G

PARK LU IAN
LU
HOU
GUAN G Z X

KEY N

£ Train station WULONG PARK I
c Long distance bus station
g Ferry terminal J
n Tourist information
N Post office 6c7 HOUZAIMEN JIE

Old city wall rFENGCHUANG XI JI E DAJIE TAIPING NAN LU BHuasnfSutaJtiieonZHDOONNGGSHLUAN 9
HAN ZHONG MEN
8
TING JIE e MOLCUHOU 5 HONGWU
LU
SHUDIAXJIIME EN SH E N G Z HJIAONUYLEULU LU RUIJIN LU HOUBIAO
YING LU
BAIXIA CAAC c
LU
N

FENGTA LU NA JIANK A NG
LU

JIQING LU SHAN LU Airport
HUA
C2HAN4GLE 3LU
G
G

N
N

O
O

H
H

Z 1
Z

King of
Borneo's Tomb Yuhuatai

224 CENTRAL CHINA

Zhonghua Gate

BUILT UNDER THE ORDERS of the first Ming emperor,
Hongwu, from 1368–86, the walls surrounding the
capital were the most extensive in the world at the time.
The 40-ft (12-m) high walls snaked 20 miles (33 km)
around the city’s natural contours. Given that the city
was elsewhere protected by river and mountain,
Zhonghua Gate was a key element in Nanjing’s southern
defences. Its walls were cemented by a super-strong
mortar made with glutinous rice. Certainly the
Emperor’s show of defense was effective – no enemy
attempted to breach the walls via Zhonghua Gate. Today
the gate’s impressive remains are open to visitors and an
interesting museum has been built into the battlements.

Nanjing from the city wall
adjacent to Zhonghua Gate

Four gatehouses,
sitting above each
arched gateway,
contained armaments
and supplies.

. Inner Citadels Portcullises blocked
Behind the main gate are three courtyards passage through the
or citadels. During an attack, enemy forces gateways. The
that breached the main gate could be trapped grooves are
in these courtyards. The cavities in the walls still visible.
concealed soldiers waiting in ambush.

RECONSTRUCTION OF
ZHONGHUA GATE

The main gate tower sat adja-
cent to the top of the wall, with
the rest of the citadel protruding
into the city. Today, only the
brick walls remain – none of
the gatehouses has survived.

STAR SIGHTS

. Inner Citadels

. Arched Gateways

. Signed Bricks

. Arched Gateways
Four arched tunnels, each as long
as 174 feet (53 m), run through the
battlements. Each gate had massive
double doors and a portcullis.

NANJING 225

. Signed bricks VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Numerous bricks are stamped
with the name of the kiln Zhonghua Lu. @ 16 from city
where they were fired and center. # 8am–5pm. & =
even the name of the
brickmaker himself, together
with the date of manufacture.

Decorative wen The main gate tower acted
as the first line of defense,
providing protection from
enemy fire and a lookout point.

Statue of soldier
Statues wearing replica

Ming-era uniforms are
scattered strategically
about the battlements.

Ramp
The wide ramps, which
run up each side of the
gate to the top of the city

wall, allowed soldiers
and horses quick access

to the ramparts.

NANJING’S CITY WALLS

Xuanwu Hu Originally 20 miles (33 km) long, much of
Park the wall, about 75 percent, remains. The

most impressive sections are near the refur-

bished Xuanwu Gate in the north and the

1 long strip in the east. Parts, but not all, of
the existing wall can be walked along.

2 Xuanwu Gate 1

Taiping Gate 2

Zhongshan Gate 3 0 km 1

Zhonghua Gate 4

0 miles 1

3 KEY

Existing wall

Path of destroyed wall

4

226 CENTRAL CHINA

E Meiyuan Xincun

# 9am–4:30pm daily. &

The former Chinese
Communist Party office was
headed in 1946–47 by Zhou
Enlai (see p250), who held
negotiations with the Kuo-
mintang after the Japanese
surrender. The newly restored
building houses a museum
commemorating these events.

P Ming Palace Ruins

Zhongshan Donglu. # daily. &

The old Ming Palace (Ming

Gugong) was built in the 14th

century for the first Ming Xuanwu Lake, edged by pavilions and boat piers

emperor, Hongwu, who made

Nanjing his capital. Within a E Provincial Museum Y Xuanwu Lake

century of its construction, 4 Chaotiangong Lu. § (025) 8446 Xuanwu Park. # daily. &

this splendid palace was 5317. # daily. & In the northeast corner of the

severely damaged by two The Provincial Museum, city an especially fine stretch

fires. Later, the Manchus and founded in 1933, is one of of the Ming city walls skirts

then the Taiping soldiers China’s better museums and the western shore of the

completed its destruction. All definitely worth a visit. Its enormous Xuanwu Lake,

that remains are ten marble highlights include some won- situated in Xuanwu Park. At

bridges, the old Wu Men or derful ornate sedan chairs, well over 1 mile (2.5 km)

Meridian Gate, and a large bronzes from the Zhou long, the lake was an impor-

number of pillar bases worth dynasty, and model trading tant water source for the city,

examining for their ships. The collection of jade as well as a popular imperial

finely sculptured and lacquerware includes resort for many centuries.

details. The pillars a jade burial suit con- During the Song dynasty, it

also give an idea of sisting of rectangles of was also used for naval exer-

the layout of the jade sewn together cises. The park was opened

palace buildings. with silver thread, to the public after the fall of

Along its main axis, dating from the the Qing dynasty in 1911.

the palace would Sculptural detail, Eastern Han dynasty. Xuanwu Lake has five small

have had three Ming Palace Ruins Also on display are islands named after the five

major courtyards bricks from the city continents, which are linked

enclosed by enormous halls wall, pictures of the old city, by bridges and causeways.

raised on platforms. These and relics from the Taiping They offer a variety of enter-

were flanked on either side Heavenly Kingdom Rebellion. tainment options with tea-

by altars and temples. Many of the exhibits are houses, restaurants, pavilions,

Beijing’s Forbidden City (see captioned in English, which boats of various types, swim-

pp86–9) is a larger version of makes the museum even ming areas, an open-air

this palace complex. The more interesting. theater, and even a small zoo.

grounds have plenty of trees, The most scenic is Yingzhou

which offer shade in the } Purple Mountain Island, delightfully laid out

summer months. See pp228–9. with lily pads, trees, and

flowers. Although the park

can get crowded, especially

on weekends, it is a charming

place to relax. The most

convenient entrance is

through the triple-arched

Xuanwu Gate in the old city

wall on Zhongyang Lu, while

tickets are available from the

booth on Jiwusi Lu.

Marble pillar bases mark the layout of the palace, Ming Palace Ruins P Drum & Bell Towers

# daily.

The much-restored Drum
Tower dates back over 600
years to 1382, and is fronted
by a traditional gateway. It was
built to house several drums
that were beaten through the

NANJING 227

night to mark the change of NANJING MASSACRE
the watch, and occasionally to
sound alarms. Today, only The Nanjing Massacre, or the
one large drum remains. The
tower also houses a collection Rape of Nanking as it is also
of amateur paintings, and a
part of it has been converted known, is still an object of
into a teahouse. A short
distance to the northeast is friction between the Chinese
the Bell Tower (Dazhong
Ting), constructed during the and the Japanese. In 1937,
Ming dynasty and rebuilt in
1889. The huge bronze bell, when the invading Japanese
cast in 1388, is one of the
largest in China. army succeeded in capturing

The area surrounding the Nanjing, a large number of
towers was the administrative
center of the old city. It is civilians stayed behind instead
now a busy place, full of
offices and heavy traffic. of fleeing, following an appeal

made by the Chinese gov- Monument to the
ernment. While the government Nanjing Massacre

fled, the occupying army

proceeded to carry out a brutal campaign of murder, pillage,

and rape on the civilian population. It is thought that up to

400,000 people were killed in the incident. After Japan’s

surrender in 1945, the government returned to Nanjing and

the city regained its status as the capital of China until the

Communists shifted the capital back to Beijing in 1949.

Traffic on the Nanjing Yangzi marched out in 1960. Accor- Y Mochou Lake
ding to the official Chinese
River Bridge version, the bridge was built # daily.
from scratch, as the Russians
P Nanjing Yangzi River took the original plans with Just outside the city wall in
Bridge them when they left. The western Nanjing, Mochou
double-decker bridge, Lake (Mochou Hu) is named
Daqiao Nanlu. § (025) 5878 5703. designed for road traffic as after the legendary heroine,
Elevator # daily. & well as trains, is almost a mile Mochou. Her name, meaning
(1.5 km) long, and is one of “Without Sorrow”, was
This impressive piece of the longest in China. Before it bestowed because her singing
engineering, completed in was built, ferries used to carry was so sweet that it banished
1968, is one of the great entire trains across the river, all sorrow. Surrounding the
achievements of the Chinese one carriage at a time. An lake, Mochou Lake Park is
Communists, who took over elevator takes visitors to the especially pretty when the
the project after the Russians top of one of the towers, lotus flowers on the water are
from where there are in full bloom. An open-air
excellent views across the stage and a teahouse lie along
river. Also worth noting are the water’s edge. The
the Soviet-style sculptures that Square Pavilion contains a
decorate the bridge. The best statue of Mochou in a small
approach to the bridge is pond, while the Winning
through the adjacent Daqiao Chess Pavilion next door
Gongyuan (Bridge Park). was where the first Ming
emperor Hongwu, played an
important game of chess with
his general.

Square Pavilion with a statue of the legendary maiden Mochou, Mochou Lake Park

228 CENTRAL CHINA

Purple Mountain

OVERLOOKING THE CITY, Zijin Shan, or the
Purple Mountain, is said to take its
name from the color of the rocks. It is a

picturesque area of gentle hills shaded by

woodland and bamboo groves, dotted with

Door handle villas. It also contains several of the most
Ming Xiao Ling
important points of interest in Nanjing

such as the Mausoleum of Dr. Sun Yat Sen,

Ming Xiao Ling, and the Linggu Temple complex. Seeing

everything will take a whole day and, although there are

food stalls around, visitors are advised to take along a

picnic. The energetic can make the long climb to the

summit for splendid views over the city; alternatively Statue of Sun Yat Sen, “Father of
Modern China,” in his mausoleum
you can take a cable car from outside the eastern wall.

a Cable Car
Summit

a Zixia
Tomb of Liao Lake

Xhongka Plum
Blossom
Purple Mountain Observatory CNitaynWjinalgl Botanical
Alongside more modern equipment, Gardens Hill
the observatory houses a display of Qian
bronze instruments that date back Lake
to the 15th century. However,
similar pieces were used by the 500
Chinese as long as 3,000 years ago. 500

KEY The cable car
goes to the summit
a Cable car in two stages and
Road is recommended
for the views.
STAR SIGHTS
0 meters
. Ming Xiao Ling
. Linggu Temple & 0 yards

Beamless Hall
. Mausoleum of Dr.

Sun Yat Sen

. Ming Xiao Ling
This tomb was completed in 1405
for the first Ming emperor, Hongwu,
and his wife. Although much of it was
destroyed in the Taiping Rebellion
(see p422), enough remains to give a
sense of the grandeur of the original.

NANJING 229

Museum of VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Dr. Sun Yat Sen
Set in a pretty building Jiangsu Province, 2 miles (3 km)
this museum is often E of Nanjing. ª @ from the
overlooked by visitors. train station. There is a shuttle
Four floors of exhibits service between main sites in the
chronicle Sun Yat park. Purple Mountain #
Apr–Nov: 6:30am–6:30pm daily;
Sen’s life with Dec–Mar: 7am–6pm daily. &
paintings, photographs, for each site. = -

and personal effects. Linggu Pagoda
Built in 1929, this 199-ft
The Music Stage (61-m) high pagoda was
was built in 1933 designed by an American,
as part of Sun Yat Henry Murphy, at the behest
Sen’s mausoleum.
of Chiang Kai Shek, in
memory of the soldiers killed

in the 1911 revolution
(see pp62–3).

Guanghua
Pavilion

. Linggu Temple & Beamless Hall
Originally founded in AD 514 the
temple was moved here by Ming
emperor Hongwu to make room for
his tomb. It is most notable for the
beamless hall, built in 1381 without
using any wood in the construction.

. Mausoleum of Dr. Sun Yat Sen
Despite the use of blue tiles, instead of
the emperor’s yellow ones, this grand
mausoleum has imperial resonances.
Completed in 1929, the blue and white
colors represent the Nationalist Party.

230 CENTRAL CHINA

Exploring the Purple Mountain of 392 steps and comprises a
square hall with a lifesize

ALSO KNOWN AS ZHONGSHAN MOUNTAIN, after Sun Yat marble statue of the man
Sen’s Mandarin name, the Purple Mountain (Zijin leading to a round, domed
Shan) is best explored by starting from the easternmost building that contains his
site at the Linggu Temple and slowly working your way sarcophagus inset in the floor.
west back to the city. To fully explore the area requires There are other memorials in
a long day, but if time is scarce, half a day will do for the area such as the Music
visiting Sun Yat Sen’s Mausoleum, the most popular site Stage, an auditorium popular
with picnicking visitors and

on the mountain, and one other. However, it is also the Guanghua Pavilion.

pleasant just to get away from everybody else

and wander the network of shady woodland Xiao Ling Tomb

paths that crisscross the hillside, and to visit Although much of it is derelict,

the many smaller visitor attractions. the site is mainly of interest as

the first of the

reinforced Ming Tombs.

concrete. From The sacred way,

the top, there is a an avenue of

great view of the stone statues of

thick green leafy pairs of animals

carpet that cloaks Stone sculpture from the and officials,

the mountain. Xiao Ling sacred way some sitting,

some standing

Sun Yat Sen’s Museum on duty is also impressive.

Slightly off the tourist trail, Unusually it does not run

this museum is inside a south to north but winds its

beautiful building that once way up the hillside. South of

held a Buddhist library. The the tomb lies the scenic area

collection of paintings, black of Plum Blossom Hill,

and white photos and artifacts especially pretty in spring

chronicles in detail the life of when the trees bloom pink.

the “father of the people.” To the west lie the Botanical

Lake beside the Linggu Temple at The top two floors have Gardens, a huge area with

the foot of the Purple Mountain captions in English. The colourful planting, lawns,

Buddhist library of sutras is hills, and lakes. Nearby lies

Linggu Temple, Beamless now housed in a separate the Tomb of Liao Zhongkai

Hall, and Pagoda building out the back. and his wife He Xiangning,

The Linggu Temple was prominent Nationalists who

originally sited where the Sun Yat Sen’s Mausoleum followed Sun Yat Sen.

Ming emperor Hongwu (Zhongshan Ling)

wanted to build his tomb The revolutionary leader died Observatory

(Ming Xiao Ling), and so he in 1925 and a competition Built in the 1930s, the

had it moved to this site. The was held to design his tomb. observatory is slightly run

only original building that The winner was Y.C. Lu, a down these days. The main

remains is the Beamless Hall. graduate of Cornell University point of interest for the casual

Built in 1381, it is a brick School of Architecture. The visitor is the small collection

vaulted edifice constructed tomb is approached up a of copies of bronze Ming and

without any wooden beams. typically long marble stairway Qing astronomical instruments.

This was supposed to be the

solution to a timber shortage,

but, with few exceptions, it

failed to be adopted. A small,

restored Buddhist temple

reputedly houses the remains

of the Tang dynasty monk

Xuanzang who traveled to

India to get Buddhist scriptures

(see p487). The nearby Linggu

Pagoda is inscribed in the

handwriting of Chiang Kai

Shek saying “repaying the

country with extreme loyalty.”

The building is meant to

combine the future and the

past in that it is an old style

of building – a pagoda – but

built with modern materials – Approach to the tomb of the first Ming emperor, Hongwu

NANJING 231

Gateway of the Memorial to the Nanjing Massacre that are extensively covered
with flying apsarases (celestial
Around Nanjing M King of Borneo’s Tomb maidens), while the other
houses a statue of an upright
There are plenty of interesting Off Ning Dan Gong Lu. Over 1 mile (2 Vairocana Buddha, known as
the Cosmic Buddha who is
sites around Nanjing that are km) NW of Yuhuatai. # daily. the embodiment of Truth and
Knowledge. To the east stands
worth seeing along with the Situated close to Yuhuatai, the an octagonal stone pagoda
built in AD 601, which bears
Purple Mountain. All can easily King of Borneo’s Tomb was carvings of scenes from the
life of the Buddha.
be reached by taxi or in the discovered as recently as 1958.
Behind the halls are the
case of Qixia Si, by bus. The rulers of Borneo had Thousand Buddha Cliffs.
These are in fact just over 500
been sending tribute to China Buddha statues carved into
the cliff face, but “thousand”
E Memorial to the Nanjing since AD 977. In the mid-14th is often used in China to
denote “many.” The earliest
Massacre century, the first Ming statues date to the 5th century
Qi dynasty, while most were
195 Chaping Dong Jie. § (025) 8661 emperor, Hongwu, greatly carved during the Song and
Tang dynasties. Some statues
0931. # 8:30am–4:30pm daily. & expanded the existing tribute were badly defaced during
the bloody Taiping Rebellion
A short distance west of system, whereby foreign (see p422) and again during
the Cultural Revolution (see
Mochou Park, this site nations paid pp64–5), but enough remain
to make the visit worthwhile.
recalls the Japanese “tribute” to China Visitors can spend a few
enjoyable hours walking in
atrocities, known as in the form of the woods behind the cliffs.

the Nanjing gifts and pre- Octagonal stone pagoda with carv-
ings of the Buddha’s life, Qixia Si
Massacre (see cious goods. He

p227), that took sent envoys to

place during the all of China’s

city’s occupation Martyrs’ Memorial, tributary

in World War II. In Yuhuatai states including

the garden, shards of Borneo, to ensure

bone and piles of skulls are that this economic exchange

grim mementoes. Amid a continued. The King of

photographic chronicle of the Borneo arrived in Nanjing in

events, one room focuses on 1408, but died during his stay.

the post-war reconciliation His tomb is marked with a

between the two nations. tortoise stele, and, similar to

other tombs of the period, a

Y Yuhuatai sacred pathway with statues

Yuhuatai Lu. § (025) 5241 1523. on either side. The site is not

# 7am–6:30pm daily. & clearly signposted, so it is

According to legend, Yuhuatai, advisable to have the tomb’s

south of Zhonghua Gate, is name written in Chinese in

where a 5th-century monk order to ask for directions.

gave a sermon that was so

moving that flowers rained t Qixia Si & Thousand

down from the sky. Chinese Buddha Cliffs

visitors still collect the colored Qixia Shan. 9 miles (15 km) NE of

pebbles that are found here. Nanjing. c bus from opposite the

Sadly, the park became an railway station, 1 hr. § (025) 8576

execution ground during the 1831. # 7am–5:30pm daily. &

Chinese Revolution (1927–49), One of the largest Buddhist

and thousands lost their lives seminaries in the country,

here. The Martyrs’ Memorial Qixia Si was originally found-

consists of nine gigantic, 98-ft ed in AD 483, but the current

(30-m) high figures in typical building dates from 1908, at

Soviet realist style. Behind it the end of the Qing dynasty.

is a pagoda, from where there It consists of two principal

are good views across the city. temple halls; one has walls

232 CENTRAL CHINA

Traditional Medicine

MEDICINE IN CHINA dates back pp32–3), the vital force of living
some 4,000 years and things. Qi gives rise to the

evolved as a result of the search opposite and interdependent

for the elixir of life, research in forces of yin and yang, signified

which many emperors took a in the universe and body by wet

keen interest. Over the centuries Yin yang and dry, cold and heat, etc. Unlike

an approach was adopted that symbol western medicine, where an

would today be called holistic – outside force, such as bacteria or

the importance of diet, emotional a virus, is assumed to cause disease, in

health, and environment was Chinese medicine a medical problem is

emphasized. Today, treatment is still caused by a yin-yang imbalance within

founded on the use of herbs, diet and the patient. When yin and yang are out

acupuncture, with Daoist philosophy of balance, the flow of qi has been

as an integral ingredient, the most depleted or blocked; Chinese medical

notable aspect being that of qi (see practitioners seek to return the balance.

10TH-CENTURY CHANNEL CHART Needles from
Qing Dynasty
Qi flows through channels that radiate
throughout the body from the vital Channel
organs to the extremitites. This chart
clearly illustrates a channel that runs Modern
from the intestines through the arm needles
to the finger tips. Applying pres-
sure to the specified points will
moderate the flow of qi.

Acupuncture needles
are inserted just below
the skin at pressure
points, also called men
or gates, along the
channels. Acupuncture
has even proved an
effective anesthetic.

The Bencao Gangmu, Pressure
a pharmacopeia of point
medicine listing all
known diseases and
their treatments, was
compiled by the
naturalist Li Shizhen
during the 12th century.

A mixture of herbs, Moxibustion, used in
fungus, roots, bark, and chronic cases, involves
sometimes dried animal burning artemisia leaves to
products, such as ground heat up the pressure points.
The heat is conveyed by
antler, are carefully needles, but the moxa is
combined and dispensed sometimes held so close to
the skin that it singes.
to the patient who boils
the ingredients to make

a powerful decoction.

JIANGSU & ANHUI 233

Wuhu e

78 miles (125 km) SE of Hefei. £ c

THE PROVINCE’S main ferry
port has little to offer, and
its few sights include the

Guangji Si on Zhe Shan,

founded in AD 894, and the

nearby Zhe Pagoda, from

where there are views over

the town. Some streets in the

town’s center are lined with

old houses with thatched roofs

and mud walls, and make for

Plaque over the beautifully decorated entrance to the Guangji Si, Wuhu a pleasant stroll. Wuhu is also

a good base for visiting Li

Bozhou q town while exploring the Bai’s Tomb at Caishiji, 4 miles
province. The Provincial (7 km) from Ma’an Shan, the

Museum has some interesting first stop south of Wuhu on

exhibits including bricks from the railway line. Li Bai (AD

155 miles (250 km) NW of Hefei. Han-dynasty tombs, a 701–762), a Tang-dynasty
£c cranium belonging to Homo poet, was a famous drunk

erectus discovered in Anhui, and is said to have died

BOZHOU’S medicinal market – and an exhibition on the drowning in the moon’s reflec-

the largest of its kind in “Four Treasures of the Study” tion. His tomb stands at the

the world – attracts over (see p219), mainly ink sticks, top of a long series of steps

50,000 traders from China and ink stones, brushes, and behind a Qing-dynasty temple,

Southeast Asia. Every conceiv- paper, for which and overlooks the Yangzi. It

able plant, insect, and animal the province is may only contain Li Bai’s

limb, in whole and powdered known. Baohe clothes, as his final

form, can be found in its hall. Park, set around resting place is still the

Also of interest is the 17th- a pretty tree subject of debate.

century Flower Theater with flanked by a lake,

wood and brick carvings and has a Memorial M Li Bai’s Tomb

painted friezes around the Hall devoted to the great Caishiji. £ to Ma’an Shan,

stage. The town’s museum Song dynasty admin- then bus or taxi. # daily.

exhibits a Han-dynasty jade istrator, Lord Bao.

burial suit of the father of Cao The 16th-century Li Bai’s Tomb, ENVIRONS: Located 37

Cao, the Three Kingdoms war- Mingjiao Si temple Caishiji miles (60 km) southeast

lord, who built the Under- stands 16 ft (5 m) of Wuhu, Xuancheng

ground Tunnel to conceal above the ground, while is the site of the Alligator

the army, if attacked. nearby Xiaoyaojin Park has Breeding Center, which has

a 3rd-century well and is a successfully increased the

( Medicinal Market good place for walks. population of this endangered

Zhongyao Shiyang. # Mon–Fri. species. Found only in Anhui,

P Underground Tunnel E Provincial Museum the wild population remains

Caocao Yunbingdao. # daily. & 268 Anqing Lu. # Tue–Sun. & small, but the captive popu-

P Lord Bao Memorial Hall lation now runs into thou-

Hefei w 58 Wuhu Lu. # 8am–5:30pm daily. sands, and it may soon be
& possible to reintroduce these

t Mingjiao Si reptiles back into the wild.

93 miles (150 km) W of Nanjing. ~
£ c n 42 Changjiang Zhong Lu.
§ (0551) 267 2945.

ANHUI’S PROVINCIAL capital Alligators sunning themselves in Xuancheng’s breeding center
grew into a flourishing
industrial center after 1949,
when the new Communist
government supported the
growth of industry in areas
that had been previously
impoverished. Although not
of very great interest, visitors
are likely to pass through this

234 CENTRAL CHINA

Jiuhua Shan r Shexian y

100 miles (160 km) SE of Hefei. c n A restored Ming-dynasty shop, 16 miles (25 km) E of Tunxi. c buses
Lao Jie (Old Street), Tunxi to Tunxi.
135 Baima Xincun, Jiuhua Jie.
§ (0566) 501 1588. Tunxi t FORMERLY KNOWN as Huizhou,
Shexian is renowned for its
ONE OF THE four mountains 44 miles (70 km) SE of Huang Shan. wealth of well-preserved Ming-
holy to Chinese Buddhists, ~ £ c n 3/4F, 99 Fushang Lu. dynasty houses, once owned
Jiuhua Shan has been sacred § (0559) 231 0616. by wealthy salt merchants.
since the Korean monk Jin Many of these houses lie
Qiaojue – thought to be a AN IMPORTANT transport hub along the lanes off Jiefang Jie
reincarnation of Bodhisattva for visiting the popular and along Doushan Jie, still
Ksitigarbha – died here in AD Huang Shan (see pp236–7), occupied exactly as they were
794. It is also an important Tunxi has numerous fine as far back as the 14th century.
place of pilgrimage for the examples of traditional classical
recently bereaved, who come architecture. In certain areas The wealthy Huizhou
to hold services for those such as along Lao Jie (Old tradesmen also erected many
who have passed on. Street), restored houses dating memorial archways (paifang)
to the Ming dynasty have been in Shexian county but the
Over 60 temples linked by converted into shops selling most famous is the complex
paths from Jiuhua village dot souvenirs and antiques, while of seven Ming and Qing arches
the mountain. The first is the others serve as restaurants. at Tangyue, a village about 4
Qing-dynasty Zhiyuan Si, The high standard of restora- miles (7 km) west of Shexian.
with a honeycomb of halls. tion gives visitors a clear The arches acknowledge the
Farther up is the oldest temple, picture of a typical Ming-era political career, filial piety,
Huacheng Si, a part of which town. Many of the houses chastity, and charity of a
possibly dates to the Tang era. bear the decorative “horse successful local family.
Beyond, an ornamental gate head gables” (see opposite),
marks the path up the moun- which originally had a Yixian u
tain. From here, one option is practical use as fire baffles.
an hour-long walk that passes 22 miles (35 km) NW of Tunxi.
Ying Ke Song (Welcoming c Minibus to Tunxi. Permit required,
Pine), and bears left past a available at Tunxi.
series of temples until Baisui
Gong, where the preserved THE UNESCO World Heritage
body of the priest, Wu Xia, Sites of Hongcun and
sits at prayer. Visitors can Xidi, known for their Ming
either walk back or take the and Qing houses, lie in the
funicular railway. The other vicinity of Yixian. About 7
option is the path leading right miles (11 km) to the north-
at Yingke Song, which passes east, Hongcun dates to 1131.
Feng Huang Song (Phoenix Picturesquely ringed by moun-
Pine) to the summit at Tiantai tains, it is known as “a village
Zhengding (Heavenly Ter- in a Chinese painting.” The
race), where a huge Buddha village is laid out in the shape
statue is due to be built. The of a water-buffalo, and is wat-
four-hour walk to the summit ered by a network of canals
can be curtailed by taking the that feed the Moon Pond and
cable car from Fenghuang South Lake, representing the
Song, and returning by taxi. buffalo’s stomach, while the
canals represent its intestines.
The serene Jiuhua Shan or Nine Glorious Mountains
Xidi, 5 miles (8 km) north of
Yixian, has a maze of lanes
flanked by over 100 houses,
dating mainly from the late
Ming and early Qing eras.
Some have charming court-
yards, while their interiors are
often decorated with carved
wooden screens and panels.
Some houses feature perfor-
mances of local arts. Nanping,
3 miles (5 km) west of Yixian,
also has fine examples of
classical architecture.

JIANGSU & ANHUI 235

Huizhou Architecture

SHEXIAN COUNTY is home for They used their money to build
the descendants of a group large family houses, with

of people who played a key whitewashed exteriors and

role in the Chinese economy beautiful wood interiors. The

400 years ago. Today, the distinctive features of these

people of southern Anhui houses are a result of social

province are mostly farmers, and environmental factors, and

but from the fourteenth to Huizhou memorial are attempts to deal with the
seventeenth centuries, their archway (paifang) weather, earthquakes and the
forefathers were the wealthy risk of attack by bandits. Many

merchants of Huizhou, famous the of these houses still remain, sometimes

length and breadth of China for their a little run down, but still a testament to

commercial acumen and integrity. the enterprise of the Huizhou traders.

Carved wood panels Wooden columns could
The delicate tracery of the wood withstand an earthquake
panels was both decorative and better than brick walls.
functional – allowing light in
while keeping Sloping roofs collected
the heat out. rain – good qi (see
pp32–3) – into the pond.

The walls were not
load bearing at all –
they were known as
curtain walls.

High windows
made the houses
secure from attack

by bandits.

Fishponds in
the courtyard keep
the house cool and

are decorative.

Horsehead gables Pailou doorway
These walls were intended to These elaborate constructions
prevent fire (and burglars) jumping
from one building to another but known as pailou or paifang
also developed into a means of were built of stone rather than
decorating the buildings. wood as this made them all the
more difficult to break through.

236 CENTRAL CHINA

Huang Shan i Qingliang Tai
(Refreshing Terrace)
REPUTED TO BE THE MOST BEAUTIFUL mountain range in is a popular spot for
the country, the startling, cloud-cloaked peaks of watching the sunrise.
Huang Shan (Yellow Mountain) have for centuries
TAIPING

been celebrated by poets and painters. Although the

main peak is under 6,200 ft (1,900 m), the 70 sheer

rock cliffs are spectacular to hike, and the winding

West gate concrete steps are usually very crowded. Even when
detail
shrouded in mist as is the norm, the scenery of
precipitous peaks, bamboo groves, and ancient,

twisted pines is unusually beautiful. Accommodation is available

in pretty Wenquan or nearby Tangkou. Consider spending a night

at the top for spectacular, but not solitary, sunsets and sunrises.

a

a

Guangming Ding
(Bright Summit
Peak) 6035 ft

. Feilai Shi Lianhua Feng
The “Rock Flown From Afar,” a massive, rectangular (Lotus Flower
boulder poised at an unlikely angle, overlooks the Peak) 6145 ft
“Western Sea,” an endless vista of mountain peaks
and cascading clouds. a

Western Trail Shen Quan t
This path, more Feng
physically demanding 5340 ft Banshan
than the eastern route, Si
cuts through splendid
rock formations, along Ciquan
narrow, and very steep, Ge
flights of steps.
t
STAR SIGHTS a

. Feilai Shi Wenquan
. Shixin Feng
. Aoyu Bei •

Welcoming Guest Pine
Huan Ke Song, featured on
endless postage stamps, ap-
pears to beckon the visitor up
the mountain and is said to
be over a thousand years old.

JIANGSU & ANHUI 237

View from the Top VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
The summit with its stunning views takes about three hours to
explore. Head to Paiyun Ting, “Cloud Dispelling Pavilion,” at 125 miles (200 km) S of Hefei. ~
the top of the Taiping cable car, for the best views of the sunset. at Tunxi. £ to Tunxi. c from
Nanjing or Hefei to Tangkou (5 hr);
from Tunxi to Tangkou (1.5 hr);
bus to main gate. # daily. &
∑ www.huangshanguide.com

KEY

c Minibus stop

a Cable car

t Temple

Path

Road

Tiandu Feng . Shixin Feng
(Celestial The shard-like “Beginning to Believe” peaks, rising
above woodland and glistening streams, offer one of
Capital Peak) the most spectacular views at Huang Shan. Access is via
6005 ft the Immortals’ Bridge at the eastern end of the summit.

a EXPLORING HUANG SHAN

The eastern route (5 miles/8 km) takes about three
hours; the western route (9 miles/15 km) up to
twice that. Some hikers choose to take the eastern
route up and the western route down. Two cable
cars allow you to bypass much of the walking, but
the line-ups are usually very long.

. Aoyu Bei

On the approach to Tiandu Feng, Aoyu Bei, the

0 km 1/2 Carp’s Backbone, is a disconcertingly exposed

c and narrow 30-ft (9-m) arch with sheer drops
1/2 down both sides.
TANGKOU 0 miles



CENTRAL CHINA 239

ZHEJIANG & JIANGXI

LYING IMMEDIATELY to the are a fertile plain watered
south of Shanghai, by Poyang Hu, the
Zhejiang is bordered largest freshwater lake

by Jiangxi to its southwest. in China, and the rivers

Northern Zhejiang is a vast JIANGXI ZHEJIANG that feed it. Nanchang,
region of fertile farmland, the provincial capital,

with canal towns such as the prospered in the 7th

provincial capital of century, following the construction

Hangzhou, and lovely Shaoxing. of the Grand Canal. With the growth

Hangzhou and the great port of of coastal treaty ports in the mid-19th

Ningbo are the region’s chief indus- century, Jiangxi’s economy declined.

trial and commercial centers. Just off Later, in the early 20th century, civil

Zhejiang’s coastline are some 18,000 strife forced millions into exile. The

islands, among them the holy shrine rugged Jinggang Shan mountains in

of Putuo Shan. The south of the southern Jiangxi, where most of the

province is rugged and mountainous, fighting took place, are rich in

with superb scenery at Yandang Shan. revolutionary associations. To the

Landlocked Jiangxi is sparsely province’s northeast lie the porcelain

populated compared to the rest of town of Jingdezhen and the charming

Central China. Its northern reaches mountain resort of Lu Shan.

SIGHTS AT A GLANCE

Towns & Cities Areas of Natural Beauty, Tiantai Shan 5

Hangzhou 1 Islands & Mountains Yandang Shan 6

Jingdezhen q Jinggang Shan w

Jiujiang 9 Lu Shan pp252–3 0 Shanghai
Nanchang 8 Putuo Shan pp248–9 4 k•

Ningbo 3 Huzhou • Jiaxing
Shaoxing 2 •
Wenzhou 7
1~ Wangpan
Yang

Tonglu 320 iang 2• 3~
Shangyu
•
9 Fuchun J
• 206 Chun’an • Shengzhou • 4
205
Ruichang 0 Poyang

De’an • q~ Xin’anjiang Lanxi Ninghai
ShQuuikJuiang • • Jinhua
Xiu Shui Hu •
•Yongxiu
5 Tiantai
•

Leping • Dexing • Xianju

Xinjian • 8~ 320 Quzhou •

• • Huangyan • Taizhou
•
Shangrao
Shanggao 320 Jiangshan • Lishui 6
• Songya•ng
• Jiang Fu He 104
•
Jin 330 7~
Yichun Xinyu Yingtan Wencheng Rui’an

• • Shu • ••

Yuan Linchuan

• Gan Jiang
105
Pingxiang Nancheng • 205 • Pingyang

Ji’an • • Nanfeng
• Taihe

Gan Jiang Xingguo KEY
w • • Ningdu

Suichuan •

Yudu Ruijin k International airport
Ganzhou • •
•
Nankang •
323 • Xinfeng ~ Domestic airport
105
206 0 km 100 National highway
100 Major road
• Xunwu 0 miles Railroad

Provincial border

Secluded path up to the Seal Engravers’ Society pagoda on Gu Shan Island, West Lake, Hangzhou

240 CENTRAL CHINA

Hangzhou 1 E Chinese Medicine
Museum
RENOWNED IN MEDIEVAL CHINA as an earthly
paradise, Hangzhou became the splendid 95 Dajing Xiang. § (0571) 8702
capital of the Southern Song dynasty between 7507. # 8:30am–5pm daily. &
1138 and 1279. The capital flourished and its
glories were extolled by Marco Polo, who The interesting Huqinyu Tang
allegedly visited Hangzhou at the height of Museum of Chinese Medicine
its prosperity and described it as “the City of is housed in an old apothe-
Heaven, the most magnificent in all the cary shop. It was established
world.” Later, when the conquering Mongols by the merchant Hu Xueyan
Statue of chose what is now Beijing as their new during the Qing dynasty and
Yue Fei capital, Hangzhou continued to be a thriving traces the history of tradi-
commercial city. Although most of the old buildings were tional Chinese medicine,
destroyed in the Taiping Rebellion, the attractive West which goes back thousands
Lake and its surrounding area are still worth visiting. of years. It is still an active
dispensary and pharmacy.

Y West Lake
See pp242–3.

E Tea Museum

Y Huanglong Dong Park Longjing Lu. § (0571) 8796 4232.

& Qixia Shan # daily. &

North of West Lake (Xi Hu). Tracing the history of tea

This hilly area, crisscrossed production (see p293), the

with paths, has several sights Tea Museum has lots of inter-

of interest. Huanglong Dong esting information regarding

Park, nestling in the hills, is the different varieties of tea,

very attractive with its its cultivation, and the

teahouses, ponds, and development of tea-

flowers, and a pavilion making and tea-drinking

where musicians perform vessels. Fortunately,

traditional music in many of the captions

Entrance archway to Yue Fei Mu summer. To the east are in English.

(Tomb of Yue Fei) is Baoshu Ta, a

M Yue Fei Mu 20th-century recon- P Longjing

Beishan Lu. § (0571) 8796 8525. struction of a Song-era Village
# 7:30am–5:30pm daily. &
pagoda. Looming close SW of Tea Museum. &
Just north of the lake lies the
tomb of the Song general, by is Qixia Shan The village of
Yue Fei, a popular Chinese
hero revered for his patrio- (Lingering Clouds Longjing (Dragon
tism. His campaigns against
the invading Jin were so Mountain), with the Well) produces one
successful that his Song
overlords began to worry that Baopu Daoist Wood panel of China’s most
he might turn against them.
He was falsely charged with Temple located half- carving at Baopu famous varieties of
sedition and executed, only to
become a martyr whose way up its slopes. Daoist Temple green tea. Visitors can
exploits were widely cele-
brated in drama and painting. This active temple has wander around the

The Yue Fei Temple is a services on most days. It tea terraces, catching glimpses
late 19th-century construction,
and the tomb lies beside it. makes an interesting stopover, of the different stages of
Leading to the tomb is a small
avenue of stone animals. The where visitors can watch production – cutting, sorting,
central tumulus belongs to
Yue Fei, while the smaller pilgrims, priests, and perhaps and drying – and also buy the
one is his son’s, who was
also executed. The kneeling even one of the frequent tea, which varies in price
figures in iron represent his
tormentors – the prime ancestral worship ceremonies. according to its grade.
minister, his wife, a jealous
general, and the prison Inside the main hall of the Chinese Medicine Museum
governor. It was customary
to spit on them, but this is
no longer encouraged.

HANGZHOU 241

t Lingyin Si said to owe its survival to VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Zhou Enlai (see p250), who
Lingyin Lu. § (0571) 8796 8665. prevented its destruction dur- 75 miles (120 km) SW of
# 7:30am–4:30pm daily. & ing the Cultural Revolution. Shanghai. * 6,115,000. ~ £
Still, some parts of the temple Train Station, East Train Station.
The hill area known as Feilai are ancient, such as the stone c East Bus Station, North Bus
Feng (The Peak that Flew pagodas on either side of the Station, West Bus Station, CAAC
Here) is home to some of the entrance hall, that date from (buses to airport). g Ferry
city’s main sights, including AD 969. Behind this hall is Terminal (to Suzhou & Wuxi). n
Lingyin Si. Founded in AD the Great Buddha Hall, with 1 Beishan Lu, (0571) 8521 5525.
326, this temple once housed an impressive 66-ft (20-m)
3,000 monks who worshiped statue of the Buddha carved eccentric name. Hui Li thought
in more than 70 halls. Though in 1956 from camphor wood. it was the spitting image of a
now much reduced in size, it hill in India and asked whether
is still one of China’s largest The Ligong Pagoda at the it had flown here. Feilai Feng
temples. It was damaged in entrance was built in honor is known for the dozens of
the 19th-century Taiping of the Indian monk, Hui Li, Buddhist sculptures carved
Rebellion, and then again by who gave the mountain its into the rock, many dating
fire in the 20th century. It is from the 10th century.

Buddha sculptures at Feilai Feng p Six Harmonies Pagoda

16 Zhijiang Lu. § (0571) 8659 1401.
# 6:30am–5:30pm daily. &

Standing beside the railway
bridge on the northern shore
of the Qiantang River, Liuhe
Ta is all that is left of an
octagonal temple first built in
AD 970 to placate the tidal
bore, a massive wall of water
that rushes upstream during
high tide. Over 197-ft (60-m)
high, it served as a lighthouse
up until the Ming dynasty.

HANGZHOU CITY CENTER North Bus Station, East Train Station,
Ferry Terminal East Bus Station
Chinese Medicine Museum 3
Huanglong Dong Park TIANMUSHAN LU c CAAC Airport

& Qixia Shan 2 TIYUCHANG LU
Lingyin Si 7 c West Bus BAOC H HUANCHENG XI LU HUBIN LU
Longjing Village 6 Station LU ZHONGLSUHAN BEI
Six Harmonies Pagoda 8
Tea Museum 5 SHUGUANG U n
West Lake 4 LU
Yue Fei Mu 1
2t

QINGCHUN ZHONGSHAN ZHONG LU
LU

U 4

1B E I S H A N
4 Lake Tours

Jetty
LUG YIN JIEFANG
LIN L LU

XI SHAN LUXi Li 4 XINCHENGZHAN LU
Hu

7 HEFANG JIE

KEY 3 Train
Station

c Long distance bus station JING WA ZHONGHE NAN LU
LU N GLING LU
4 Riverboat pier 5 tHUAGANG SHAN LU NSO
HUPAO LU
n Tourist information LONG GONGYUAN
NAN

t Temple

6 MANJUELONG

LU

0 km 1

0 miles 1 HUPAOMENG DA DAO
QUAN GONGYUAN Qiantang
FUXING River
8

242 CENTRAL CHINA

West Lake

LONG CONSIDERED one of the scenic
wonders of China, covering over
three square miles (8 sq km), West

Lake (Xi Hu) is situated at the heart

of Hangzhou. Surrounded by gentle

green hills, the lake’s willow-

shaded causeways and fragrant

Metal work, cover of lotus blossoms have long
Xiaoying Island
been an inspiration for artists.

Originally the lake was an inlet off . Three Pools Reflecting the Moon
Three small stone pagodas rise from the
the estuary of the Qiantang River, becoming a waters near Xiaoying Island. At full
moon candles are placed within and
lake when the river began to silt up in the 4th their openings are covered in paper to
create reflections resembling the moon.
century. The lake had a tendency to flood, so
XI LI HU
several dykes were built, including the Bai and

Su Causeways. Hiring a private boat from the

eastern shore for an afternoon on the water is

highly recommended, as is a

leisurely stroll along the

shady causeways.

Huagang Garden . Xiaoying Island
This garden is intended Often called San Tan Yin Yue Island, referring to
as a place for viewing the three moon-reflecting pagodas off its shores,
fish. Designed by a Song- Xiaoying Island consists of four enclosed pools
dynasty eunuch, its pools fringed by pavilions first built in 1611. The zig-
are filled with shimmering zagging Nine Bend Bridge was built in 1727.
goldfish in a restful setting
of grasses and trees.

STAR SIGHTS

. Xiaoying Island

. Three Pools
Reflecting the Moon

. Su Causeway

HANGZHOU 243

VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Hangzhou. 4 regularly from
eastern shore near Hubin Lu. Boats
for hire on Gu Shan Island.
Zhejiang Provincial Museum 22
Gushan Lu. § (0571) 8798
0281. # 1pm–4pm Mon,
9am–4pm Tue–Sun. &

. Su Causeway
The longer of the two causeways takes its name from the
Song-dynasty poet, Su Dongpo, who also served as governor.
Linked by six stone bridges, the causeway is a peaceful
thoroughfare running along the lake’s western edge.

GU SHAN Bridge to Quyuan Garden
This bridge leads to a stunning gar-
den surrounded by lotus flowers. It is
considered one of the ten prospects

from where the lake can be seen
to best advantage.

The Seal Engravers
Society is open in

the summer months.

XI HU Zhejiang
Provincial
BEI LI HU
Museum

MARCO POLO

Whether Marco Polo ever visited China is

much disputed. However, according to the

book he dictated to a ghost writer who

embroidered it substantially, Polo became

governor of Yangzhou for three years during

the Yuan dynasty. He describes Hangzhou as

paradise and the finest city in the

world, with fascinating

markets, pleasure boats, and

prostitutes. Hangzhou was

indeed a cosmopolitan city,

ever since the Southern

Song dynasty made it their

capital; The Travels of Bai Causeway
Named after the 9th-century poet-governor
Marco Polo, however, Bai Juyi, this dyke leads to Gu Shan, an
island first landscaped during the Tang
may be based on earlier dynasty, and now containing a tea house
and the provincial museum.
journeys by his father

and uncle, and stories Engraving of Marco
from other merchants. Polo, 1254– 1324





246 CENTRAL CHINA

Ningbo 3

90 miles (145 km) SE of Hangzhou.
* 5,400,000. ~ £ c g
n 61 Dashani Jie, (0574) 8731 0467.

CHINA’S GREATEST port
between the Song and
Ming eras, Ningbo is located

upstream from the coast on

the Yong River. It was later

eclipsed by Shanghai, but has

recently regained some

importance due to its deep

natural harbor. The town has

had a long association with

Lu Xun’s Former Residence, Shaoxing commerce. When Shanghai

Shaoxing 2 and Guangzhou prospered in
Qiao, resembles the Chinese the 19th and early 20th cen-

character for number 8, and turies, Ningbo’s residents were

lies in a charming area of old employed as “compradors,”

47 miles (67 km) SE of Hangzhou. streets off Baziqiao Zhi Jie, agents or mediators by the
* 4,300,000. £ c north of Lu Xun Lu. foreign companies.
n 3F, 288 Zhongxing Zhong Lu.
∑ www.sx.gov.cn The town makes a good Ningbo’s main sight is the
base for several excur- Tianye Ge, a 16th-century
sions. The scenic Dong private library, the oldest in

DESPITE THE proliferation of Hu (East Lake) is China. It resembles a trad-
new buildings, this canal nearby. Visitors can itional garden with bamboo

town has retained its charm, also take a boat to groves, rockeries, and

with its narrow streets, arched Yu Ling, allegedly pavilions, one of

bridges, and whitewashed the tomb of Yu the which exhibits

houses. Ancient Shaoxing was Great, founder of the ancient books and

the capital of the Yue kingdom Xia kingdom (2200 scrolls. To the south-

during 770–221 BC. It BC). Farther out is Lan east off Kaiming Jie,

remained important over the Ting (Orchid Pavilion), is the 14th-century

years even when Hangzhou where China’s greatest Tianfeng Pagoda. The

became the Song capital. calligrapher, Wang Xizhi Stone lion, former foreign conces-

Today, it is a scenic place to (AD 321–79), threw a Tianye Ge sion lies at the north-

explore for its waterways. party where, so one story ern end of Xinjiang

The Qing Teng Shu Wu goes, guests had to drink cups Bridge, with a 17th-century

(Green Vine Study), former of wine as they floated past Portuguese church and a

home of the 16th-century writ- and compose a poem, French-built hospital. Outside

er and artist Xu Wei, lies off recorded by the host. the city, Baoguo Si temple’s

Dacheng Long, an alley not far Mahavira Hall is the oldest

from Jiefang Nan Lu. P Qing Teng Shu Wu surviving wooden building in

Regarded as the best example Houguan Xiang. # daily. & the Yangzi delta region.

of traditional domestic architec- P Lu Xun’s Former

ture in China, the house has a Residence P Tianyi Ge

simple ornamental garden, 429 Lu Xun Zhong Lu. # daily. & 5 Tianyi Jie. # 8:30am–5pm daily. &

while one of its rooms displays

Xu’s expressive art.

There are also several houses

associated with Lu Xun, per-

haps the best known modern

Chinese writer, born here in

1881. Most of them are clus-

tered together on Lu Xun Lu.

The Lu Xun Memorial Hall has

no English captions, but Lu

Xun’s Former Residence is a

fine example of domestic

architecture, with photographs,

furniture, and personal items.

Opposite is Sanwei Sushi, the

school where he studied.

Shaoxing’s most famous

bridge, the 13th-century Bazi Charming narrow streets around Tianye Ge, Ningbo

Su Causeway bridge on a misty West Lake, Hangzhou