China

DUNHUANG 497

Cave 220: Early Tang
618–704 Rich patrons would
often feature in murals. This
cave portrays ten generations
of the wealthy Zhai family.

The Dunhuang cliff face, home to 1,000 years of Buddhist history

Mogao Caves recommended to take your

own flashlight and to remem-

ber that photography is not

Mogao, 15 miles (25 km) SE of allowed in the caves (without
Dunhuang, Gansu Province. @ ª a very expensive permit), a

# 8am–6pm. & 8 ^ rule that is strenuously

enforced. The standard tour

THE CAVES at Mogao were lasts half a day, and includes
dug into cliffs that rise about fifteen of the caves

out of an otherwise largely as well as the museum,

Cave 217: Early to High flat and featureless which exhibits some of the
Tang 618–780 Detail of the
Western Paradise of Amitabha desert landscape. scrolls found here. It is
Buddha. This cave contains
some wonderful, unfinished Getting there is also worth visiting the
paintings of Bodhisattvas.
relatively easy, if Research and Exhibition
Cave 17: Late Tang 848–906
A detail from the famous cave you are travelling Center, where seven of
where the massive library of
sutras was first found by independently, as the caves have been
Abbot Wang.
Dunhuang is crawling reproduced, permitting
Cave 263: Western Xia
1036–1226 Under the Western with minibuses. As far closer scrutiny of
Xia dynasty a lot of older
caves were simply redecorated. usual they wait until the paintings than is
This was originally a cave of
Northern Wei origin. every seat is taken possible in the original

before setting off, caves, albeit without

but the half-hour the same atmosphere

journey is cheap. Statue from pagoda of antiquity. There is

Remember that the at Mogao caves a simple guesthouse

caves are closed for those wishing to

between 11:30am and 2:30pm. stay overnight; otherwise, the

Of the six hundred surviving return journey to Dunhuang

caves, only about thirty are is by minibus, the last one

open to the public. leaving around 6pm.

The entrance fee includes a

Chinese-speaking guide,

although it is worthwhile, for

an additional fee, engaging an

English-speaking guide, as the

tour party is likely to be

smaller and the choice of

caves less rigidly laid down.

The caves that include

portrayals of tantric sex can

also sometimes be opened for

a supplementary payment.

The guides are generally fairly

knowledgeable about the

history of the caves and the

paintings and sculptures Façade of Cave 96, covering a

within. You are, however, 100-ft (30-m) statue of Buddha

498 INNER MONGOLIA & THE SILK ROADS

body language to make a served as a stopover on the

point. Sometimes, if you’re Silk Road’s lesser-used south-

lucky, they can also be seen ern route, and is now a good

making sand paintings. Behind base for exploring Qinghai.

the monastery, a stream flows Xining lies in a remote valley,

into the grassland for about a and, at 7,220 ft (2,200 m),

mile, leading to a pretty experiences a cool summer

Tibetan village. Situated in and freezing winter.

another village, 4 miles (7 The Great Mosque, one of

km) from the city center, the largest and most impres-

the Upper & Lower sive in northwest

Sengeshong are a China, is situated on

pair of monasteries Dongguan Dajie,

that are home to close to the city

around 50 renowned center. Restored

thangka artists. Both recently, it was

monasteries are originally built in

The beautifully decorated door of magnificently decor- the 14th century,
Longwu Si’s prayer hall, Tongren
ated, with every surface and is thoroughly
Tongren e
of their assembly halls Chinese in design,
66 miles (107 km) W of Xiahe. c
_ Lurol Festival (6th lunar month), carved and painted A devotee in the with elements such
Buddhist Festival (1st lunar month). with traditional Great Mosque as flying eaves and
Repkong designs. The vividly-colored
KNOWN AS REPKONG in
Tibetan, Tongren is a residents of this village arches. Enclosed within is a
transit point between Xiahe
and Xining. This small Tibetan speak a mixture of Tibetan, public square, that is usually
town offers fascinating insights
into the life of the Tibetan Mongolian, and other dialects. bustling with worshipers.
people. On the outskirts of
town lies the colorfully In the far north of town,
decorated lamasery, Longwu
Si, containing fine relics in its Ta’er Si r across the Huangshui River,
many halls. Initially built in the Daoist Bei Shan Si sits
1301 during the Yuan dynasty,
today’s modern reconstruction (See pp500–1) atop a hill and is the focus
houses three colleges and an for a pleasant afternoon’s
assortment of lamaseries
belonging to the Yellow Hat hike. The route, via stone
sect – a branch of Tibetan
Buddhism (see pp522–3). At Xining t steps and across wooden
dusk, visitors can watch the walkways, passes numerous
resident monks debating,
using elaborate formalized cave shrines decorated with

Daoist symbols.

144 miles (232 km) W of Lanzhou. Xining’s ethnic mix is best

* 1,115,000. ~ £ c n Xining appreciated at Shuijing

Dasha, (0971) 812 9842. Xiang Market, in the west of

town off Xi Dajie, where

ALTHOUGH BLESSED with very over 3,000 stalls sell all
few sights, Qinghai’s manner of provisions and

captial, Xining, is home to an food, especially hot breads,

intriguing mix of minority mutton dishes, and kabobs. It

peoples, mostly Hui Muslims is also a good place to stock

and Tibetans with a sprinkling up on snacks before heading

of Kazakhs and Mongols. off on a trip to Qinghai Hu,

From the 16th century, it to the west of town.

The grand Chinese-style architecture of the 14th-century Great Mosque, Xining

GANSU & QINGHAI 499

Golmud i

Mengda Tian Chi nature reserve along the banks of the Yellow River 474 miles (762 km) W of Xining.
~ £ c n Golmud Hotel,
Mengda Tian Chi y sea level, makes it extremely
Geermu Binguan, (0979) 413 003.
remote, accessible only with
IN THE FAR WEST of Qinghai,
the help of a tour agency. Golmud is perched at 9,845
ft (3,000 m) in the forlorn
124 miles (200 km) SE of Xining. The grand desert vistas along Tibetan plateau. The only
c to Guanting or Xunhua, then taxi. the way are an excellent sizable town for several hun-
reason to visit the lake, and in dred miles, it is the second
largest city in the province
THE REMARKABLY beautiful summer, numerous yak herds after Xining, with a largely
Tian Chi, or “Heavenly can be spotted grazing. Han Chinese population.
Today, it acts mainly as a
Lake,” forms the core of the The lake’s icy salt water is transit point between Xining,
Dunhuang, and Lhasa.
Mengda Nature Reserve, situ- home to large quantities of
The town’s bus service
ated along the Yellow fish, which feed a thriv- which runs to Lhasa in Tibet
is currently the only overland
River. In contrast to ing bird population. public transport that non-
Chinese visitors are officially
most other parts of Most trips to the permitted to use to get there.
The trip is not particularly
the province, the lake center around cheap, as tickets can only be
purchased through the tourist
land here is fertile a visit to Bird office at a fairly hefty mark-
up. The bumpy ride takes
and abounds with Island, a rocky about 25 hours on a tough
road across high passes. Tem-
vegetation. Most of outcrop on the peratures drop well below
freezing point at night, and it
the reserve is wood- western side where is strongly recommended to
take provisions and warm
land, offering colonies of swans, clothing. An alternative route
out of Golmud is to take a
opportunities for A medallion with cormorants, bar- landcruiser tour into some of
the remoter parts of Xinjiang.
scenic walks and Tibetan calligraphy headed geese, and
The town itself is largely
birdwatching. rare black-necked unappealing, although the
surrounding lunar-looking
Accommodations are cranes, among others, flourish landscape has a rugged charm
best appreciated on the way
available at the reserve, while during the breeding season. out. A 625-mile (1,000-km)
railway line is being built from
trips can be arranged through On the southern shore, the here to Lhasa scheduled to be
completed by 2010. Tibetans
Xining’s Tourist Office. The Qinghai Lake Tourist Center fear the line will bring an influx
of Han migrants to Lhasa.
trip to Mengda Tian Chi from offers opportunities for boat-

Xunhua is spectacular, wind- ing, fishing, horse riding, and

ing along a precipitous road trekking. Accommodations are

that cuts into the cliffs along available at the tourist center.

the Yellow River, through

quiet towns and past fields of

wheat, corn, and barley.

Qinghai Hu u

93 miles (150 km) W of Xining. Bird
Island ¢ Nov–Feb. & 8

THE LARGEST LAKE in China, Colorful Tibetan prayer flags on the shore of Qinghai Hu
Qinghai Hu covers a vast
area of over 1,740 sq miles
(4,500 sq km). Its location on
the Tibetan plateau, at a height
of 10,500 ft (3,200 m) above

500 I N N E R M O N G O L I A A N D T H E S I L K R O A D S

Ta’er Si r

NESTLED INTO A HILLSIDE, this
walled temple complex,
also known as Kumbum Mon-

astery, is one of the most im-

Prayer wheels each portant Tibetan Buddhist sites . Great Golden Roof Hall
containing a scroll in China. Tsongkhapa, founder This temple was built at the spot
of the Gelugpa sect (see p522), where Tsongkhapa was born
and a tree is said to have grown
was born here, and the first temple was built in his with an image of the Buddha
on each leaf. It contains a
honor in 1560. The monastery was closed for a per- silver stupa holding his image.

iod under Communist rule, although the buildings were Nine
Room Hall
afforded protection during the Cultural Revolution, and

reopened in 1979. A major restoration project has been

undertaken since an earthquake rocked the complex

in 1990. Ta’er Si is easily accessible from

Xining, and so is popular with both

tourists and pilgrims.

Dinkejing
Hall

Pilgrim Prayer Hall
Turning a hand-held
prayer wheel and
fingering prayer beads,
the devout walk clock-
wise around the pe-
rimeter of the complex.

. Hall of Butter Grand
Sculpture Kitchen

This strongly fragrant . Great Hall of
exhibition is packed Meditation

with intricately carved This evocative chamber,
yak butter sculptures. where up to 2,000 monks
The gaudily painted could gather to chant sutras,
figures depict scenes is hung with silken thangkas.
from Buddhist lore. The flat roof rests on grand
pillars, each wrapped in an
STAR SIGHTS
exquisite carpet.
. Great Hall of
Meditation

. Hall of Butter
Sculpture

. Great Golden
Roof Hall

GANSU & QINGHAI 501

Local monk VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Ta’er Si is a
working monastery Huangzhong. 17 miles (28 km) S
and houses over of Xining. c from Xining (depart
600 monks, who just west of Xi Men). # 8:30am–
spend their life 5:30pm. _ Monlam: 8th–15th of
studying Buddhist 1st lunar month; Saka Dawa: 8th–
teachings. There 15th of 4th month; Tsongkhapa
were once as Festival: 20th–26th of 9th month.
many as 3,000
resident monks.

Visitors who climb Dafangzhang
these steps are Hall
rewarded with views
across the valley.

Chorten
A towering chorten of 46 ft (13 m)
marks the monastery’s entrance. The
square base symbolizes earth, the dome
water, the steps fire, and the parasol
wind, all of which is topped by a crown
representing the ethereal sphere.

Lesser Golden Roof Hall
A truly bizarre pavilion, this
temple is dedicated to animals.
Stuffed deer, sheep, and goats,
draped in ceremonial scarves,
peer down from the upper story.

Prayer Hall
This time-worn temple is still
used for religious tutelage. The
external murals are new, however,
and show a mix of Chinese and

Tibetan influences.



INNER MONGOLIA & THE SILK ROADS 503

XINJIANG

CHINA’S SECOND-LARGEST province, In the 18th century, the
Xinjiang shares borders Chinese took control of
with eight countries what was then Kashgaria,
from Mongolia in the and despite several revolts,
northeast to India in the have maintained their rule
southwest. This isolated ever since. Almost fifty percent
region is largely desert of the population is comprised
and grassland fringed by some of of ethnic minorities, and in 1955, in
the highest mountains in the world. deference to the large Uighur popu-
lation, the area became the Xinjiang
Two thousand years ago a string of Uighur Autonomous Region, with its
oasis towns were established along capital at Ürümqi. Today, highlights
the Silk Roads that skirted the northern of a visit include the Tian Shan range
and southern edges of the scorching and the rich pastures around Tian Chi
Taklamakan Desert. Trade attracted (Heaven Lake) outside Ürümqi, and
merchants from India and Europe, and Silk Road towns such as Turpan and
Xinjiang became the meeting point of Kashgar, shaded by palm trees and set
east and west, with Christian churches against a backdrop of desert and
and Buddhist temples existing in close mountain. It is also possible to travel
proximity. At the end of the Tang era, south over the Karakoram mountains
Turkic tribes repeatedly overran the into Pakistan or west into Kazakhstan
region, and by the 15th century Islam along the ancient trade routes.
was established as the main religion.

SIGHTS AT A GLANCE

Towns & Cities Lakes, Mountains & Areas KEY
Karghilik w of Natural Beauty
Kashgar 8 Altai 4 k International airport
Khotan e Tian Chi 3 ~ Domestic airport
Kuqa 7 Karakoram Highway 9
Turpan 1 Sayram Lake 5 National highway
Ürümqi 2 Yining & Ili Valley 6 Major road
Yarkand q Minor road
Yengisar 0 Railroad
International border
Habahe Provincial border
xxxx Disputed border
0 km 200 • 4
~
0 miles 200 Burqin •
Fuyun~•
~
Tacheng• Emin

•
217
216
•Toli • Urho

• Karamay • Shaqiuhe
~
• Jiangjunmiao
5 Usu• Shihezi k Fukang
~ • Mori Barkol
• 312 • •Yiwu
6 •
23
Zhaosu Narat
• •
Xiaocaohu Hami • Yandun
Baicheng ~ Kaidu H •1 •
314 e •Kümüx
•Yanqi Shankou •
•
Xingxingxia

• 7• Luntai
Tarim He
Wushi •Yuli

• •Aksu Tikanlik

Akqi •

Baykurt • • • Kum Kuduk
•
• Awat Argan

•
218
Ulugqat ~ 8 •Bachu L A M A K A N DESERT Miran
90 xx xMarkit T A
x K Ruoqiang •
x
x• • •
xx
xx Xorkol
x
q Qiemo 315
314 •
• x xx w •Pishan Andirlangar
•Hadilik
Taxkorgan x •

Akmeqit • ~e Qira •Minfeng

•

xxXx xaidulla•219 •Yeyik
x •Pulu
Dahongxlixuxxtxaxnx•x x x

Valley in the Pamir Mountains at the westernmost edge of China

504 INNER MONGOLIA & THE SILK ROADS

across Central Asia. variety of medicinal potions,
It is an easy-going decorated knives, clothing,
place, famous for fabric, nuts, and fruit (espe-
its grapes, with cially raisins).
mud-brick houses
and dusty streets E Turpan Museum
often covered with
trellised vines. The Gaochang Lu. # 9am–8pm daily. &
original Silk Road
settlements of Jiaohe This small museum has a few
and Gaochang lie worthwhile exhibits. The
outside town along main points of interest are
with several other items excavated from the now
sights. In summer, empty Tang-dynasty Astana
the heat is intense, tombs located outside town.
and it is best to use These include ancient silks,
the local donkey clothes, food items, and even
carts as taxis. some preserved corpses.

U Imin Ta P Jiaohe Ruins

1.5 miles (2.5 km) E of 6 miles (10 km) W of Turfan. c mini-
bus or cycle. # 9am–6pm. & 8
The graceful Imin Ta and Iranian-style mosque town. # dawn–dusk. &
Although less important and
This is perhaps the smaller than Gaochang, the
ruins of Jiaohe are better
Turpan 1 most interesting of Turpan’s defined. Jiaohe was founded
numerous mosques because as a garrison town but came
under Uighur jurisdiction in
of its old minaret (Imin Ta), the 6th century. It was finally
abandoned during the Yuan
constructed in 1778, that rises era, perhaps due to failing
water supplies. The ancient
116 miles (187 km) SE of Ürümqi. * like a stout but graceful chim- city occupies a spectacular
position on a steep plateau,
200,000. £ Daheyan, 33 miles (54 ney beside it. Built by Prince with its street plan clearly vis-
ible, and is well worth a visit.
km) N of Turpan, then minibus. c Suleiman in honor of his
Returning from Jiaohe, visi-
n Oasis Hotel, (0995) 852 1352. father, Prince Emin, the tors can stop-off to see the
karez irrigation site. Used
minaret is broad at throughout Xinjiang, this inge-
nious system of irrigation taps
THIS OASIS TOWN on the the base and tapers into natural underground
northern Silk Road toward the top. water sources by using a net-
work of subterranean tunnels
lies in the Turpan Designed in the which channel water to the
fields. Wells, dug at intervals
depression – one Iranian style with along the length of the tunnels,
bring water to the surface.
of the lowest areas some elaborately

on earth – and is decorative brick-

largely an Uighur Dried fruit on sale, work, its staircase
settlement. The Turfan bazaar was closed in 1989.

Uighur descended

from nomadic Siberian tribes ( Bazaar

who united in the 7th century Laocheng Lu. # daily.

and settled in the region in The small Turpan market is

the 9th century. They later an interesting place to browse

converted to Islam as it spread for local products including a

The ruined city of Jiaohe set against a backdrop of hills on a steep plateau

XINJIANG 505

The dramatic Flaming Mountains near Turpan dating from between the 3rd
and 8th centuries AD, were
} Grape Valley The caves originally stored a systematically excavated from
1959, and revealed several
c minibus from town. # daily. & collection of Buddhist murals corpses, naturally mummified
by the dry desert air. They had
A surprisingly attractive desert in the Indo-Iranian style, which been wrapped in silks, and
buried with many everyday
oasis to the north of Turpan, showed unusually marked items, including pottery,
wooden carvings, coins, and
Grape Valley (Putao Gou) is western influences. Unfor- documents relating to military
and domestic transactions such
best visited in the height tunately, only fragments as land tenures. Unfortunately,
most items are now on display
of summer. With vines remain, as after centuries at museums in Turpan and
Ürümqi, but the three tombs
and trellises bulging of neglect, they were that are open to visitors display
Tang-era paintings and a few
with grapes, it is a all removed in the preserved corpses.

pleasant place to early 1900s by the P Gaochang Gucheng

stop for lunch, with German explorers, 29 miles (46 km) SE of Turfan. c mini-
bus from town. # dawn-dusk. & 8
plenty of grapes von Le Coq and
Southeast of the Astana tombs
and raisins to eat Grünwedel, and lie the impressive ruins of
Gaochang city, surrounded by
(for a fee). There is a placed in a Berlin 33-ft (10-m) high walls. Gao-
chang was founded as a gar-
winery nearby, as museum, where they rison town in the 1st century
AD, and by the 4th century, it
well as brick silos for were later destroyed had become the capital of the
western Han empire. A cos-
drying the grapes. Buddha mural in the by Allied bombs mopolitan city with traces of
Nestorian Christianity and
Bezeklik Caves during World War II. Manichaeism (a Persian dual-
istic religion), it was visited by
} Flaming the monk Xuanzang in AD
630, on his journey to India in
Mountains M Astana search of Buddhist sutras.
From the 9th to the 13th cen-
c minibus from town. 8 25 miles (40 km) SE of Turfan. turies, the city became the
Uighur capital, but was aban-
The road east to Bezeklik c minibus from town. # dawn– doned during the early Ming
era. The ruins are extensive,
leads past these sandstone dusk. & but there is almost nothing
left that is recognizable, apart
mountains, made famous in The cemetery of the ancient from a Buddhist temple out-
side the southwest walls.
the novel Journey to the West, city of Gaochang is located at

a fictionalized account of the Astana, a few miles northwest

journey of the pilgrim monk, of Gaochang. The tombs,

Xuanzang, to India. In the

book, the mountains (Huoyan

Shan) are described as being

on fire, and at certain times of

day, a combination of sun

and shadows turns them a

brilliant red and makes them

seem to flicker as though

glowing red-hot.

P Bezeklik Caves The Bezeklik Caves situated in a spectacular river gorge

31 miles (50 km) NE of town. c
minibus from town. # dawn–dusk.
&8

Picturesquely situated in a
desert gorge high above the
Sengim River, the Bezeklik
Caves once formed part of a
Buddhist monastery between
the 6th and 14th centuries.

506 INNER MONGOLIA & THE SILK ROADS

Ürümqi 2

911 miles (1470 km) NE of Kashgar.
k £c

CAPITAL OF XINJIANG since the
19th century, Ürümqi sits
amidst beautiful scenery, with

the snow-laden Tian Shan to

the east. It served as the base

for a succession of warlords

well into the 20th century,

including the infamous Yang

Zengxin who, in 1916, invited

all his enemies to dinner and

then beheaded them. Today a

growing metropolis with a

population of one million,

Ürümqi is a modern Chinese Tian Shan peaks surrounding the deep-blue waters of Tian Chi

city, with designer stores and

high-rises. Many Han Chinese Provincial Museum devotes Tian Chi 3

have settled here since 1949, a section to archeological finds,

and the population is now especially from around Turpan,

half-Han and half-ethnic including some preserved 62 miles (100 km) E of Ürümqi.
minorities including corpses, silk paintings, n (0994) 323 1238. c from
Uighur, Manchu, and lovely brocades. Ürümqi. ¢ in winter. & Horses
Kazakh, Mongolian, The museum also
and Tajik. has a section available for exploring lake area.

No longer a Adedicated to local REFRESHING break from
remote outpost, the arid deserts of
peoples and includes
Ürümqi was finally gers, jewelry, and northwestern China, Tian Chi

connected to traditional clothes. (Heaven Lake) is a beautiful

Central Asia and Up on a hill in the stretch of water, surrounded

Europe after the north of the city, the by luxuriant meadows and

Ürümqi-Almaty rail scenic Hong Shan dense pine forests. It lies at an

line was built in Pagoda in Hongshan Park is surmounted elevation of 6,500 ft (1,980 m),

1991. Most visitors Park, Ürümqi by a small 18th- enclosed by snow-capped

come to see Tian century pagoda, peaks including the majestic

Chi (Heaven Lake) but the and offers wonderful views. Bogda Feng, that reaches a

city has other attractions such height of almost 20,000 ft

as its lively markets and the E Xinjiang Provincial (6,000 m). A wonderful place

fascinating mix of ethnic Museum for spending a day, or indeed

peoples. The fine Xinjiang Xibei Lu. # 8:30am–5pm daily. several, Tian Chi offers many

opportunities for leisurely

GRAPES & WINE walks and hikes in the lake
area and through the neigh-

Nearly every household in the region is involved in grape boring countryside dotted

production, either in cultivation, or in drying inside venti- with Kazakh gers.

lated barns. In Xinjiang, the use of grapes for making wine The local Kazakhs are mostly

was first recorded by a Chinese emissary in 138 BC, nomadic, living off sheep-

although grapes were possibly cultivated here as early as breeding, and more recently,

the Shang era. In fact, all wine-making in China was learned tourism. Very friendly and

from the peoples of the hospitable, they can arrange

western regions. By the guides and horse treks around

Yuan era, wine produc- the lake and into the hills.

tion, based in Xinjiang, Tian Chi can only be visited

was substantial, and by during summer (May–Sep-

the Ming period, varieties tember), as it is not accessible

such as the crystal, the during the winter months.

purple, and the seedless There are usually plenty of

green rabbit-eye grape accommodations available in

were grown. Today, wine local Kazakh gers around the

production is thriving in lake. Staying overnight can be

Fruit vendor weighing grapes at China, and most of these far more fun and interesting

the marketplace in Ürümqi varieties are still grown. than the day-tours which are

sometimes a bit tacky.

XINJIANG 507

Islam in China

ISLAM PROBABLY CAME to Xinjiang via Uighur, Kazakhs, Kirghiz, Tajiks,
the Silk Road in the ninth Tatars, and Uzbeks of the

century, some 200 years after northwest – and the large

Arab sailors had landed in contingent of Chinese-

southern China. By the Ming speaking Hui, scattered around

Dynasty, Muslims had flourished the country. It is generally

and become fully integrated into Arabic script on a accepted that all Muslims in
Han society without losing their Chinese mosque China are Sunni of the Hanafi
dress and dietary customs. School, which is one of four

Despite hostile regimes and upheavals “schools of Islamic law.” It is

there is now a significant Muslim considered the oldest and most liberal

population of about 13 million. These school and is traditionally tolerant of

comprise the Xinjiang nationalities – differences within Muslim communities.

Mosques in
China retain
most traditional
Islamic features
but the pagodas
and upturned
eaves are clear
signs of Chinese
architectural
influences.

The muezzin, as in all Muslim
communities, calls the faithful to
prayer five times a day. Today, the

call is usually recorded and
broadcast by loudspeaker.

Inside the mosque the congregation members, Dongxiang
usually men, prostrate themselves before the mihrab, Muslims hail from
a niche in the wall indicating the direction of Mecca. Gansu province
The main hall is reserved for Friday prayers.
and speak
The Hui are said to Mongolian. They
be the descendants of have left pastoral
the Arab and Persian herding in favor
traders who arrived of a sedentary
in the Tang dynasty farming life.
and married into
Chinese families.
They are the biggest
Muslim minority.

The Koran was first
translated into Chinese

in 1927. Through the
interpretations of the
scholars, the Koran is a
vital part of Islamic life.

508 INNER MONGOLIA & THE SILK ROADS

and flowering meadows.
Located at 6,560 ft (2,000 m),
the lake area is chilly for most
of the year, and only warm
in summer when it is also
covered in flowers. Reached
by bus from Yining, it is a
beautiful spot, barely touched
by tourism, although it is pos-
sible to stay in simple lakeside
guesthouses or gers (yurts).

Yining 6

242 miles (390 km) W of Ürümqi.
* 216,600. ~ c from Ürümqi.
Ili Valley c from Yining.

The breathtaking alpine scenery of Hanas Lake Nature Reserve, Altai CLOSE TO THE border with
Kazakhstan, Yining is the
Altai 4 set at 4,490 ft (1,370 m) in the capital of the Ili Kazakh Auto-
glorious Altai mountains, the nomous Prefecture. In recent
404 miles (650 km) N of Ürümqi. reserve supports a diversity of centuries, Russia has notice-
~ Altai, then bus. c from Ürümqi wildlife. The area is wonder- ably influenced this former
to Burqin, then 93 miles (150 km) ful for walking, and boat trips transit point on the northern
N via bus or car to reserve. n (0906) are available on the lake. branch of the Silk Road. It
212 2882. Tours from Ürümqi operate was occupied by Russians in
between June and September, 1872 when Yakub Beg ruled
IN CONTRAST to the arid deserts since heavy snow closes the the region – then known as
of southern Xinjiang, the far road from October to May. Kashgaria – and later, during
north is covered in forests, the period of Sino-Soviet
lakes, and streams, overlooked Sayram Lake 5 friendship in the 1950s, a num-
by high mountains. The Altai ber of Russians resided here.
region, bordering Mongolia, 75 miles (120 km) N of Yining. c After relations between China
Russia, and Kazakhstan, is and the USSR broke down in
famous for its natural beauty, THE JEWEL-LIKE Sayram Lake, the early 1960s, there were
best seen in the Hanas Lake or Sailimu Hu, is a vast violent border clashes along
Nature Reserve (can be stretch of water set amidst the Ili River. More recently,
visited from Burqin). Cen- magnificent mountain scenery Yining has been the scene of
tered around an alpine lake several Uighur uprisings,
which were firmly quelled.

Woman tending her sheep in a flower-covered meadow on the shores of Sayram Lake

XINJIANG 509

A traditional shop in one of Yining’s Uighur bazaars Mainly a stopover on the long
journey to Kashgar, Kuqa is
Small, but pleasant and had strong links with India, effectively two towns – New
Kuqa to the east and Old
friendly with tree-lined streets and even had its own Indo- Kuqa to the west. The old
town has a bustling bazaar
ideal for walking, Yining is European language. Its signif- atmosphere, and a few dusty,
narrow lanes lined with
known for its local honey icance as a Buddhist center traditional mud houses have
been preserved. There is also
beer, and hard cheese. Its dates back to the 4th century, an interesting Friday market
near the Great Mosque. Built
main draws are the when the Buddhist scholar in 1923, this attractive green-
tiled mosque bears no traces
lively Uighur bazaars Kumarajiva flourished. of Chinese influences in its
traditional arabesque design.
with their range of Born here, he went
One of the main reasons to
street food in the to school in visit Kuqa are the Thousand
Buddha Caves, located at
old city, south of Kashmir, northern Kizil, 43 miles (70 km) west
of town. The caves date to
Qingnian Park. In India, and came between AD 500–700 and the
frescoes, in a mixture of Indo-
summer, the town back to China as a Iranian and Greek styles, are
fascinating for their total
comes alive with teacher and lin- absence of Chinese influence.
Unfortunately, the caves were
bustling night guist, translating looted at the beginning of the
20th century by the archeo-
markets and Grapes for sale on Sanskrit texts into logical explorers, von Le Coq
food stalls. the street, Yining Chinese. The town and Paul Pelliot. While most
became a focal of the caves have been strip-
About 3 miles ped bare of their frescoes,
some of the cave decoration
(5 km) south of town, the Ili point from where Buddhism, has survived, notably the
musicians in Cave 38, and the
Valley (Ili Gu) is a scenic which reached its zenith during domestic and agricultural
scenes in Cave 175.
farm area of fields and mead- the Tang era, was disseminated
About 19 miles (30 km)
ows, where dairy cattle graze. throughout China. Several large north of Kuqa lies the
ancient city of Subashi
It is home to the Xibo people, monasteries were founded on Gucheng. Abandoned in
the 12th century, the street
a tiny minority, whose capital the vast wealth generated by plan can still be seen amongst
the ruins and some of the
is at Chapucha’er. Related to the Silk Road trade. In the 7th 20-ft (6-m) high city walls
are still standing.
the Manchus, the Xibo were century, the monk Xuanzang
P Thousand Buddha Caves
sent here during the Qing era passed through Kuqa and
Hired car or taxi. # daily. &
to maintain sovereignty in the claimed to have defeated its 8 arranged by the Kuqa tourist office.

region. They have kept them- erstwhile ruler in a philosoph-

selves separate from the Han ical debate. With the arrival of

and other local communities, Islam in the 9th century, how-

and retain many aspects of ever, most traces of its Bud-

their original culture, such as dhist past were swept away.

their own language and script.

Kuqa 7

186 miles (300 km) SW of Ürümqi.
* 63,500. ~ £ c n Qiuci
Hotel, (0997) 712 2524. ( every Fri.

ASMALL OASIS TOWN, Kuqa The Thousand Buddha Caves at Kizil, outside Kuqa
is essentially an Uighur
settlement and has an
interesting history. It was an
independent state until the
8th century, when it fell under
Chinese rule. The kingdom

510 INNER MONGOLIA & THE SILK ROADS

Kashgar 8 Central Asian style and altered
over the centuries, the
IN THE FAR WEST of Xinjiang, the Silk Road mosque’s current structure
town of Kashgar lies at the foot of the dates back only as far as 1838,
Pamir mountains, with the Taklamakan and was badly damaged
during the Cultural Revolution
Desert to the east. As the meeting point of (see pp64–5). The main gate,
flanked by a pair of small
the northern and southern Silk Roads and minarets, is a confection of
marzipan-like yellow brick
Market caps, the gateway to the West, it was once a and tiling. Inside the gate is
Old Town an octagonal pavilion and a
place of great significance. A Chinese pool, as well as a 100-
columned space which can
garrison was established here in AD 78, accommodate as many as
7,000 worshipers. Although
but the area succumbed to the spread of Islam in the women are generally not
permitted to enter the mos-
9th century, and Kashgar did not become part of the que, all modestly dressed
foreign visitors should have
Chinese empire again until the 18th century. Later, a no problem, although there
are times – such as during
Central Asian warlord, Yakub Beg, proclaimed himself services – when non-believers
are not allowed. Visitors are
Khan of the state of Kashgaria but he died in 1877 and advised to remove their shoes
when entering carpeted areas.
China annexed the province. Today, Kashgar is once

more a busy market town and transport hub, and despite

rampant modernization retains much of its old charm.

P Old Town

Area to the NE of Id Kah Mosque.

Northeast of Id Kah Square is

the sprawling Uighur bazaar

area. Split into different sections,

each specializes in particular

items such as hats, musical

instruments, carpets, and hard-

ware. The main attractions are

Farmers waiting to trade livestock at market, Kashgar the locally-produced Kashgar

kilims (carpets) and colorful

( Sunday Market U Id Kah Mosque Central Asian hats. Part of the

Near Ayziret Lu. # daily. Idi Kah Square. # 8:50am–10pm area is a network of mud-brick

Livestock Market # Sun. daily (closed during services). & walls and courtyards, with local

One of China’s most famous The largest mosque in Xinjiang, teahouses and tiny restaurants

weekly markets, the Sunday and one of the largest in selling flat breads, noodles,

Market lies in the northeast China, Id Kah Mosque (Aitika lamb stews, and kabobs. A

suburbs, just beyond the river. Qingzhen Si) was probably 10-ft (3-m) section of the old

Despite now being split into founded in 1738, although it city walls can be seen at the

two markets – the livestock possibly stands on the site of end of Seman Lu, east of the

market is a few miles southeast a smaller mosque, built in the mosque, and on Yunmulakxia

of town – thousands of traders 15th century. Built in the Lu, southwest of the mosque.

flood in from all directions

on horseback, in donkey-

drawn carts, on foot, and

in every form of motor-

ized vehicle. In the crush,

stall holders sell blankets,

garish fabrics, carpets, and

fruit. However, the main

attraction is the bustling

livestock market. (Carts

shuttle between the two.)

Here horses are road-tested

at a gallop and small herds

of sheep are kept in order

while waiting to be sold. It

is a dusty, noisy, and

photogenic place, which

comes to life at dawn, and

lasts into the evening. The Id Kah Mosque, with Kashgar city and the Pamirs on the horizon

KASHGAR 511

VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

920 miles (1,473 km) SW of
Ürümqi. * 200,000. k
Kashgar Airport. £ Kashgar
Train Station. c International
Bus Station, CAAC (buses to
airport). ( Sun.

One of many old alleyways lined with mud-brick houses, Kashgar P Ruins of Ha Noi

M Tomb of Yusup T Caves of the Three 22 miles (35 km) NE of Kashgar.
Hazi Hajup Immortals
The remains of the Tang-era
# daily. & 11 miles (18 km) N of Kashgar. & 8 town of Ha Noi lie in an
atmospheric desert setting
This favorite son of Kashgar Among the earliest Buddhist northeast of Kashgar. Aban-
was an 11th-century Uighur cave carvings in China, the doned in the 12th century,
thinker and poet, renowned Caves of the Three Immortals the ruined 7th-century town
for his epic poem The Know- (Sanxian Dong) possibly date offers little besides the Mor
ledge of Happiness. He was back to the 2nd century. The Pagoda, a large stupa said to
originally buried outside the grottoes are not always acces- have been visited by the
city, but his tomb was relo- sible as they are perched high monk Xuanzang on his
cated close to Kashgar’s main on a sandstone cliff. Poor historic journey to India.
square, when threatened by a attempts at restoration and
flooding river. Although it has embellishment over the years P Opal
a plain interior, the external have destroyed many of the
structure is impressive. Top- paintings and statues. How- 18 miles (30 km) W of Kashgar.
ped with a blue dome and a ever, a handful of small
cluster of minarets, the tomb Buddha figurines remain, Opal or Wupoer is the site of
is encased in blue-and-white which can only be seen with the renovated tomb of
tiles with Arabic motifs. the permission of the Kashgar Mohammed Kashgari – an
tourist office. If permitted, eminent 11th-century scholar
M Aba Khoja Mausoleum visitors will have to take the and philologist, credited with
(See pp512–13) official guided tour. compiling the first Turkic-
Arabic dictionary. A museum
devoted to his life and works
is also situated here, and
every Monday there is also
a colorful local market.

KASHGAR CITY CENTER Kashgar Caves of the Ruins of
Airport Three Immortals Ha Noi

Aba Khoja Mausoleum 5 YUNMULAKXIA LUInternationalc LU LU 5
Id Kah Mosque 2 JIEFANG BEI LUBus Station AG AYZIRET
Old Town 3 NIZHAW Kashgar
Sunday Market 1 Tuman He 1 Train Station
Tomb of Yusup

Hazi Hajup 4

n TUMA LU TAUHUZ LU
3 N

SEMAN LU 2

0 km 1 N RENMIN DONG LU
0 mile 1
R E N M I N X I L U RENMIN c
GONGYUAN
DONG HU
CAAC c GONGYUAN
TIAN NAN LU
Opal J INE FAANNLGU

KEY KEZIDUWEI LU AIRISILAHAN LU
4

c Long distance bus station

n Tourist information

N Post office

512 INNER MONGOLIA & THE SILK ROADS

Aba Khoja Mausoleum

BUILT IN THE 17TH CENTURY, the Aba Khoja Mausoleum The entrance to the Aba Khoja
and nearby buildings form one of the best examples of complex lined with plane trees
Islamic architecture in China. The mausoleum is the burial
place of the family of Aba Khoja, a celebrated Islamic
missionary. However, the monument is also known as
Xiangfei’s Tomb, as it is the burial place of one of Aba
Khoja’s decendants, Ikparhan, said to be the legendary
“fragrant concubine” Xiangfei. The wife of a defeated re-
bel leader, she was captured by the Qianlong emperor
and taken back to Beijing to be his imperial concubine.
Refusing to submit to him she was, depending on which
story you believe, either murdered or driven to suicide by
the emperor’s mother. Others claim she died of old age.

The dome is
56 ft (17 m)
in diameter

The casket of Ikparhan is
labelled inside the tomb hall.
The carriage which supposedly
carried her body back from
Beijing is also on display.

. Geometric Decorations
Floral and geometric patterns
are common in Islamic art
because creating animate
objects was considered to be
in God’s realm (flowers were
considered inanimate).

Minarets
The four corner
towers lack the
slender grace of most
other minarets. Instead
their charm derives from the
colorful striping of the tiles
and the exquisite detailing of
Islamic motifs and patterns.

STAR FEATURES . Tombs
Decorated with
. Geometric blue-glazed tiles,
Decorations the tombs of the
Aba Khoja family
. Tombs lie on a raised
platform, draped
in colorful silks.

KASHGAR 513

VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Just over 2 miles (4 km) NE of
Old Town center. @ or ª
from People’s Square. Also
possible to cycle or walk.
Mausoleum # 8am–5:30pm
daily. & Mosque # daily

Cemetery
The cemetery, still in use by the local Uighur population,
is filled with many hundreds of distinctively-peaked,
mud and brick tombs. The bodies of the dead are
washed and prepared for burial in the adjacent mosque.

Graceful minarets Minaret decoration
flanking the Each of the windows are
entrance screened in a different
geometric pattern. The
surrounds are adorned
with graceful arabesques
while the turret is topped with
an inverted lotus dome,
scalloped edges, and finial.

Arabesques are beautiful
floral patterns where a main
stem branches into a series
of secondary stems that may
either branch again or rejoin
the main stem, and so on.

THE ABA KHOJA COMPLEX

Although Islam came to Xinjiang

via Arab traders on the Silk Road

in the 9th and 10th centuries, it

was not until the 15th century that

it became the dominant religion of

the area, and Kashgar became an

important Islamic center. The Aba

Khoja complex is a significant

architectural ensemble comprising

a mausoleum, four prayer halls, a

lecture hall, and a cemetery. There Arabic muqarnas

is also a gateway covered in on mosque pillar

decorative, blue-glazed tiles and a

Mausoleum Entrance pond in the courtyard for worshipers to cleanse
The impressive façade of the
mausoleum has a tiled iwan themselves before entering the mosque. The halls
niche-style entrance typical of
mosques in Central Asia. are graced by exquisitely painted wooden beams

supported by pillars with delightful muqarnas – an

Islamic feature of projecting niches – on the capitals.

514 INNER MONGOLIA & THE SILK ROADS

Truck passing a checkpoint on the Karakoram Highway, with the Pamir mountains in the background

Karakoram are required – issued in Beijing turing hand-crafted knives for
Highway 9 or Hong Kong – to cross into Uighur men, who carry them
Pakistan. The highway took as traditional accoutrements.
SW from Kashgar into Pakistan. c nearly 20 years to build. The Knives of all shapes and sizes
journey along it is fairly are sold in dozens of shops.
ONCE A SPUR OF the Silk arduous, and although travel- While most of the knives
Road, the Karakoram ing conditions are improving, it produced are factory-made,
Highway (Zhongba Gonglu) is best to carry warm clothing, traditional knife-making skills
was the only route over the food, and drink for the trip, are still practiced by artisans
Karakoram Mountains, to and which takes about four days. in the center of town. Using
from India. During the 1970s basic tools, the workers at the
and 1980s, a road was built Yengisar 0 Yengisar Country Small
across the mountains follow- Knife Factory produce
ing the old caravan route, to 37 miles (60 km) S of Kashgar. c exquisite designs fashioned
link China and Pakistan. The from fine woods, their han-
808-mile (1,300-km) route THE SMALL, SLEEPY town of dles inlaid with silver or horn.
from Kashgar to Islamabad Yengisar on the southern It is sometimes possible to
in Pakistan, which stretches arm of the Silk Road is visit the factory, even though
across the Pamir mountains renowned for its locally pro- a big board outside bears a
over peaks reaching 26,250 ft duced knives. For centuries, “No Entrance” sign. The
(8,000 m), is one of awe- the town has been manufac- knives, which make attractive
inspiring beauty. Camels and gifts, require special arrange-
yaks, tended by Tajik herds- ments to be taken home.
men, graze in the highland
pastures. Lakes with mirror- Polished knives displayed at a stall in the Sunday Market, Yengisar
like surfaces, such as Lake
Karakul, reflect the majesty
of the mountains, while the
remains of the occasional
caravanserai stand crumbling
at the side of the road.

The last town in China is
Tashkurgan, a bleak outpost,
with the remains of an ancient
fort. Beyond it is the 15,750-ft
(4,800-m) high Khunjerab
Pass, the gateway to Pakistan.
The Pakistan border post lies
just beyond at Sost. Visitors
should note that the border is
closed in winter, and that visas

XINJIANG 515

JADE available here at bargain
prices. Visitors interested in

Jade, or nephrite, has been carved and silk production can stop by

polished by the Chinese for several the Hetian Silk Factory in

thousand years, along with jadeite, soap- the northeast of town.

stone, and chalcedony. While the latter Sections of the old city walls

are known as yu, nephrite is zhen yu, or still stand on both sides of

true jade. Initially used as a tool, jade Nuerwake Lu. The chaotic

came to be widely used as jewelry during local market takes place on

the Han era. By the Qing period, carvers Uncut nephrite Fridays and Sundays in the
or true jade northeast of town. Though not
were producing a variety of decorative as large as its famous counter-
pieces including intricate jade animals.

Always thought of as being green, jade can in fact be part in Kashgar, it is a colorful

brown, black, or the prized cloudy white. To the Chinese, affair with livestock, fruit,

it symbolizes longevity and purity, and is worn as an amulet silks, and carpets on sale.

to ward off disease. The country’s only source of nephrite is At the end of the 19th

Xinjiang, particularly around Khotan, so a sophisticated century, the first rumors of

supply system must have existed even in neolithic times. the region’s lost cities – which

inspired several expeditions –

Yarkand q Khotan e emanated from here. A detailed
map, indicating the location of

the buried cities, lies in the

small Hetian Cultural

106 miles (170 km) SE of Kashgar. c 249 miles (400 km) SE of Kashgar. Museum. Items of interest
* 1,400,000. ~ c n 23 include fragments of silk,
FOR CENTURIES an important Tamubage Lu, (0903) 202 6090. ( wooden utensils, and jewelry
commercial center on the excavated from nearby lost

southern arm of the THE OASIS TOWN of Khotan, cities, as well as the mummi-
Silk Road, Yarkand or Hetian, was an early fied corpses of a 10-year-old

was, like Kashgar, center for the spread of girl and a 35-year-old man

prominent in the Buddhism before Islam with Indo-European features,

Great Game – arrived in the 9th century. which are 1,500 years old. The

the power Formerly the capital of ruined city of Melikawat lies

struggle between the Yutian kingdom, over 18 miles (30 km) south of

China, Russia it has been, like town. All that remains of this

and Britain (see most Silk Road once significant Buddhist cen-

p490). The old cities, periodically ter are crumbling walls, and

town, with its subsumed into the shards of glass and pottery.

adobe walls and Chinese empire.

narrow streets, has A vendor pulls a cart For centuries, the E Hetian Cultural Museum

a few interesting of radishes, Yarkand town’s jade, carpets, Tanai Lu. # daily. &

sights. The Altyn and silk

Mosque has beautifully have been consid-

painted ceilings, and in its ered the finest in

courtyard is the newly-built China, and are still

Tomb of Aman Isa Khan produced in facto-

(1526–60) – the poet wife of ries across town.

one of the local Khans. Behind According to leg-

the mosque is a sprawling end, the secret of

cemetery housing the tombs silk was first intro-

of the Khans of Yarkand. There duced to the region

is also a lively Sunday market. by a Chinese prin-

cess betrothed to a

Karghilik w local prince, who
smuggled silk moth

eggs in her hair in

AD 440. Craftsmen

144 miles (230 km) SE of Kashgar. c carve fine jade

items at the Jade

THIS TOWN was a convenient Factory on Tanai
stop between Khotan and Lu, while the
Kashgar on the southern arm Carpet Factory

of the Silk Road. The colorful across the river is

old Uighur town is definitely a friendly place

worth exploring, while the also worth a visit,

town’s main attraction, the especially for those

15th-century Jama Masjid, sits wishing to buy a

amidst the arcaded bazaar. carpet, as they are Craftsmen at the open-air market in Khotan



TIBET

INTRODUCING TIBET 518–527
AROUND TIBET 526–547

518 TIBET

Tibet At a Glance Thangka hanging on a door at the
Jokhang Temple, Lhasa
BORDERED ON THREE SIDES by some of the world’s
highest mountain ranges – the Himalayas, the
Karakoram, and the Kulun – Tibet has remained in
relative isolation. Sheltered first by its inaccessibility
and then, in the age of air travel, by Chinese occu-
pation, the “Roof of the World” has only recently
opened to foreign visitors. Its one major city, Lhasa,
retains its spiritual core: the Jokhang; the venerable
palace of the Dalai Lamas, the Potala; and great
monasteries such as Drepung and Sera. Wherever
you go, Tibet offers panoramic vistas of high-altitude
desert fringed by peaks, but the turquoise depths of
Lake Namtso and the sky-scraping peaks of Mount
Everest are particularly worth visiting.

Kashgar

Pangong-tso219 • LUGU

RUTOG • • GERZE
• DONGCO
DOMAR
SHIQUANHE •
•

• NAMRU

BARGA LUNGGAR COQEN

• • •

BURANG GUNSANG (BYraarhlumnagpTustarnag)p•o

• •

0 kilometers 100 BASAGUKE
0 miles
100

219

SHIGATSE
6

THE NEPAL 9 7
BORDER
SAKYA
MONASTERY

8 EVEREST
BASE CAMP

SIGHTS AT A GLANCE

Yamdrok Lake the largest lake in south Tibet, Towns & Cities Everest Base Camp 8
seen from the Kamba-la Pass Gyantse 5
Lhasa 1 Temples & Monasteries
The Nepal Border 9 Sakya Monastery 7
Samye Monastery pp540–41 2
Areas of Natural Beauty Shigatse & Tashilunpo 6
Namtso Lake 4 Tsurphu Monastery 3

The snow-blown majesty of Mount Everest, known as Chomolungma to the Tibetans

INTRODUCING TIBET 519

The Potala Palace seen from the rooftop of the Jokhang, Lhasa’s holiest temple

SEE ALSO

• Where to Stay p573
• Where to Eat p597

Golmud

DOBA AMDO • 317 BAQEN Mekong Garze
• 317
• NAGQU Salween

• QAMDO

109 •

NAMTSO LAKE • Kangding
4
BANBAR

BAMDA

•

TSURPHU 318
MONASTERY LHASA
3
1 • NYINGCHI RAWU
318
k •

2 SAMYE MONASTERY

GYANTSE
5

KEY GETTING THERE

k International airport Lhasa is well served by air with visitors arriving from Chengdu,
Major road Sichuan, or Kathmandu, Nepal. An overland route also
Minor road connects Kathmandu and Lhasa, but visitors must be part of
a tour group. The other bus route is from Golmud, Qinghai,
where the China International Travel Service (CITS) will arrange
the journey. Whatever the means of entry, a permit from the
Tibetan Tourism Bureau (TTB) – (0086) 0891 633 1174 – is
required. Once in Tibet, travel may be limited, as permits are
required for most areas. The best option is to arrange a tour
with an agency in Lhasa, who will also handle permits.

520 TIBET

A PORTRAIT OF TIBET

TIBET’S REPUTATION AS A LAND OF EXOTIC MYSTERY is due to centuries
of geographic isolation and a unique theocratic culture, based
on Buddhism but influenced by an older shamanistic faith
called Bon. In 1950, China marched into Tibet and annexed the
country. Despite this upheaval, the traditional culture and values of
the Tibetans remain strong and continue to lure and enchant visitors.

Since the introduction of consolidated the Buddhist faith,

Buddhism in the 7th century, inviting the Indian teacher

the religion has permeated Padmasambhava (Guru Rin-

all aspects of Tibetan life, poche) to Tibet and founding

with monasteries acting as Samye Monastery. A revival of

palaces, administrative centers, the native Bon religion in the

and schools. Ruled by 8th century led to Buddhist

priests, Tibet was feudal in persecution, and though the

outlook and resisted all Buddha mural, religion re-emerged later, the
modernization. The country Jokhang Temple kingdom disintegrated into

thus entered the modern world several principalities.

without an army, lay education, or In the 13th century, Tibet submitted

roads, and with few technologies more to the all-conquering Mongols, and in

sophisticated than the prayer wheel. 1247 the head lama of Sakya Monastery

Buddhism was introduced in Tibet by visited their court and was appointed

Songsten Gampo (AD 608–50). A Tibet’s ruler. Subsequently, Tsongkhapa

remarkable ruler who also unified the (1357–1419) established the Gelugpa or

country, Songsten Gampo, was Yellow Hat sect. His disciples became

converted to Buddhism by his Chinese the Dalai Lamas, rulers of Tibet for 500

and Nepalese wives. The next religious years. Each new Dalai Lama is seen as

king, Trisong Detsen (742–803) a reincarnation of the previous one.

Sprawling Ganden Monastery, built in the early 15th century

INTRODUCING TIBET 521

which the dead are left in the

open for vultures, are practical

in a land where firewood is

scarce and the earth too hard

to dig. Polyandry (the practice

of having more than one

husband at a time) and celiba-

cy of the clergy were necessary

forms of population control.

Farming this largely barren

land is difficult and the only

crop that grows easily is barley.

Moreover, almost a quarter of

Buddha’s all-seeing eyes on the Kumbum, Gyantse the people are nomads, keeping

herds of dzo (a cross between a

In 1950, the Chinese took advantage of yak and a cow) and living in tents. Their

a tenuous claim to the territory and livestock provide products vital for

invaded, calling it “liberation.” In the everyday Tibetan life – yak butter is used

uprising that followed in 1959, the 14th in the ubiquitous bitter butter tea and

Dalai Lama (b.1935) fled to India, burnt in smoky chapel lamps.

where he still heads the Tibetan Tibet’s roads are few, and journeys

Government-in-Exile. By 1970 more are always time consuming. The

than a million Tibetans had busiest route is the Friendship

died either directly at the Highway between Lhasa and

hands of the Chinese or the Nepalese border, which

through famine caused by passes through Shigatse,

incompetent agricultural Gyantse, and the dramatic

policies. Tibet’s cultural Sakya Monastery. It is a

heritage was razed, and over long, bumpy but rewarding

6,000 monasteries destroyed. diversion from here to the

Conditions have improved Everest base camp, which

today, and there are signs of A Tibetan mandala, a offers great views of the

religious revival. Many ritual tantric diagram forbidding peak. Lhasa, too,

monasteries that were ravaged can be a good base for

during the Cultural Revolution are now exploring some of the other isolated

being repaired and returned to their destinations. The monasteries of

former roles, but creating or owning an Drepung, Sera, Ganden, and Tsurphu

image of the Dalai Lama is still illegal. are easily accessible, while Lake

The ancient city of Lhasa is the heart Namtso and Samye are farther away.

of Tibet, though Han Chinese immi-

grants now outnumber ethnic Tibetans.

However, the old quarter, home of the

Potala Palace and the Jokhang Temple,

illustrates the determination with which

Tibetans have held onto their cultural

traditions. A common sight here are the

pious and cheerful pilgrims, swinging

prayer wheels and performing

energetic prostrations as they make

kora – holy circuits – around the temple.

Most of Tibet is desert and the

average altitude is over 13,000 ft

(4,000 m) with temperatures well below

freezing in winter. Many customs arose

as response to life in this harsh envi- Monks debating under a tree, a common sight at
ronment. Sky burials, for example, in Sera Monastery

522 TIBET

Tibetan Buddhism

THE MAHAYANA SCHOOL of Buddhism, which
emphasizes compassion and self-sacrifice,
came to Tibet from India in the 7th

century. As it spread it took on many

aspects of the native, shamanistic Bon

religion, incorporating Bon rituals and

deities. Like most Buddhists, Tibetans Chortens hold the ashes
A guardian deity believe in re-incarnation – consecutive of spiritual teachers. The
or dharmapala lives that are better or worse depending square base symbolizes

on the karma, or merit, accrued in the earth; the pinnacle

previous life. For many Tibetans, Buddhism suffuses crown represents the
daily life so completely that the concept of a religion ethereal sphere.

separate from day to day occurences, is completely

foreign – there is no word for religion in Tibetan. A soul can take one

of two paths: the light

MONKS AND MONASTERIES path leads to auspicious
rebirths until final
At the height of monastic power liberation, the dark
there were some 2,700 monas- to poor rebirths
teries in Tibet, and numerous and hell.

Buddhist sects. Most families sent

a son to become a monk and live

a life of celibacy and meditation.

The Gelugpa or Yellow The Nyingma order is the oldest
Hat sect was founded in and most traditional of all the
the 1300s by the sects. It was founded during
reformist Tsongkhapa. the 600s by Guru Rinpoche.
Dominant in Tibetan
politics for centuries, the
sect is led by the Dalai
Lama and Panchen
Lama (see p520, p544).

BON – TIBET’S PRE-BUDDHIST FAITH At the axle the three
evils, a snake (anger),
Bon, an animistic faith with emphasis on magic and a pig (ignorance), and
spirits and the taming of demons, was Tibet’s native a cockerel (desire),
religious tradition before the arrival of Buddhism. eternally chase each
Many Tibetan legends concern the taming other’s tails.
of local gods and their conversion to
the new faith. Much of today’s WHEEL OF LIFE
Buddhist iconography, rituals, and
symbols, including prayer flags The continuous cycle of existence
and sky burials – where the and re-birth is represented by
deceased is chopped to pieces the Wheel of Life, clutched in
and left on a mountainside for the jaws of the Lord of Death,
vultures – are Bon in origin. The Yama. Achieving enlightenment
ancient faith has been revived by is the only way to transcend the
a handful of Bon incessant turning of the wheel.
monasteries in Tibet.

A 19th-century bronze

figure of a Bon deity

INTRODUCING TIBET 523

Spinning a prayer wheel clockwise sends a PRAYER AND RITUAL
prayer written on coiled paper to heaven. The
Worship in Tibet is replete with ritual objects
largest wheels contain thousands of prayers and customs, many of which help with the
and are turned by crank or water power. accrual of merit. Koras, which are always
followed clockwise, can be short circuits of
The outer ring illustrates holy sites or fully-fledged pilgrimages. The
the 12 factors that determine most auspicious kora is around Mount Kailash,
karma, including spiritual considered the center of the universe; nirvana
awareness (a blind man with is guaranteed on the 108th circuit.
a stick) and acts of volition
(a potter molding pots). This ritual drum,
made from the upper
part of two skulls, has
extra potency as a tool
of prayer, because it

is fashioned from
human remains.

The inner wheel A worshiper spins
depicts the six realms a hand-held prayer
into which beings can wheel, rings a Tibetan
be reborn – gods,
demigods, humans, bell called a drilbu
animals, ghosts, and holds offerings
and demons. of banknotes, all in

aid of prayer.

Mani stones are
carved with the
Sanskrit mantra “om
mani padme hum”
(hail to the jewel in
the lotus), a powerful
Buddhist chant.

THE TIBETAN PANTHEON

An overwhelming plethora of deities, buddhas, and
demons, many of them re-incarnations or evil aspects
of each other, make up the Tibetan pantheon. Buddhas,
“awakened ones,” have achieved enlightenment and
reached nirvana. Bodhisattvas have postponed the pur-
suit of nirvana to help others achieve enlightenment.

Jampalyang BUDDHIST DEITIES
(Manjusri) represents
knowledge and Jowo Sakyamuni:
learning. He the present Buddha
raises a sword of Jampa (the Maitreya):
discriminating the future Buddha
wisdom in his Dipamkara (Marmedze):
right hand. the past Buddha
Guru Rinpoche (Padmasam-
Dharmapalas, defenders of the law, bhava): earthly manifestation of
fight against the enemies of Buddhism. Buddha who spread Buddhism
Originally demons, they were tamed by throughout Tibet
Guru Rinpoche, who bound them to the Chenresig (Avalokitesvara):
multi-armed bodhisattva
faith. Mahakala, one of the most of compassion
common dharmapalas, is a wrathful Drolma (Tara): female aspect
of compassion
manifestation of Chenresig.

524 TIBET

Nomadic life

THE CHANG TANG, a high plateau
covering almost 70 percent of Tibet,
is home to about a quarter of

Tibetans, many of whom are nomads,

or drokba, as the harsh, arid climate

precludes farming. Their existence

Young nomad has barely been touched by modern
and dzo life, and they still herd sheep, goats,

and dzo (a cross between a yak and

a domesticated cow), as they have for centuries. The Dried yoghurt is thought to

animals are adapted to high altitude, having larger protect the skin from the sun,

lungs and more hemoglobin than lowland animals. The but men don’t use it at all;
women smear it on with a
nomad’s culture is also adapted to the harsh, arid climate. tuft of wool as a cosmetic.

These men enjoy cups of salted tea made with THE HERD
yak butter, a popular drink throughout Tibet. The
salt combats dehydration and the fat gives much- Nomads rely totally on their herds for food,
needed energy. They wear knee-length lokbars, clothing, shelter, and sometimes income, so no
with a black strip at the edge, the traditional dress part of any animal goes to waste. Goats, for
for male nomads. example, provide milk for yoghurt, skins for
clothing, wool for trading, and dung for fuel.
Traditionally, nomads
wear belted robes made
out of goatskin called
lokbars that double as
blankets at night. The
fleece is worn on the
inside, while the sturdy
hide is exposed to wind
and snow. The sleeves
are extra long to keep
hands warm. Women
braid their hair and wear
their wealth as jewelry.
Coral, in particular, is
highly valued.

Each household has a home
tent, four-sided and made

out of the coarse hairs found
on a yak’s belly. Often, the
tent is pitched in a pit and
surrounded by stone wind-
breaks. Another cloth tent
may be used for traveling.

INTRODUCING TIBET 525

A woman spreads yak A nomad pours yak butter from a
dung over a windbreak churn for adding to strong, salty
wall. Once it has dried, tea. The nomadic diet is basic; the
she will scrape the staple is tsampa, roasted barley
dung off the wall and flour, which, often eaten dry and
use it to fuel fires for on its own, provides about half of a
cooking. Such tasks are nomad’s calories. Goat’s milk
strictly demarcated by yoghurt, radishes, and occasional
gender; women do all meat stews supplement the diet.
the milking, churning,
cooking, weaving, and
fuel gathering, and so
work harder than the
men for most of the year.

The wool of the yaks, sheep, and goats in
the nomad’s herd is woven using a loom,
creating robust textiles for tent walls, blankets,
and clothing. The incomes of many nomads
have been augmented recently by the
popularity of cashmere wool, the soft
down on a goat’s underbelly.

MOVING THE HERDS

Nomads on the Chang Tang do not move continuously, A herder driving his yaks over a
nor do they move far – only around 10 to 40 miles snowy mountain pass
(15 to 65 km), as the growing season is the same all over
the plateau. Indeed, they try to minimize travel, declaring
that it weakens livestock. Some families even build a
house at their main encampment. In the fall, after the
herds have eaten most of the vegetation at the main
encampment and the growing season has ended, the
nomads move their livestock to a secondary plain for
grazing. Here livestock must forage for eight to
nine months on dead vegetation. Later the nomads
may move some of their herds farther up the hills.
They then return to their original encampment.



TIBET 527

TIBET

THE ENORMOUS TIBETAN PLATEAU stretches across an awesome
463,323 sq miles (1,200,000 sq km). Its northern expanse is
the Chang Tang, a vast, uninhabited high-altitude desert,
dotted with enormous, brackish lakes. Nearly all the main sights
and cities, as well as half of Tibet’s population of 2 million people,
are concentrated in the less harsh southern region.

The fertile valley created by of China’s rivers –
the Yarlung Tsangpo river the mighty Yangzi,
is bordered by the the Salween, and
Himalayas along Tibet’s the Mekong. The
southern boundary. A wide, open spaces of
mere 14 million years northern Tibet are
old, the Himalayas are the home to nomads
youngest mountains on earth, who live a hardy pas-
and also the highest, with over toral existence. These
70 peaks reaching elevations of wilderness areas are slowly
23,000 ft (7,000 m), including shrinking as a result of the
Mount Everest, the world’s highest encroaching industrial world.
at 29,029 ft (8,848 m). The spectacle However, despite rapid devel-
of these snow-clad peaks is perhaps opment and more than 50 years of
what led to Tibet being called the Chinese occupation, Tibet still
“Land of Snows.” In reality, at an clings strongly to its cultural
average altitude of over 13,000 ft heritage, most visible in the
(4,000 m), the thin air intensifies the revitalized monasteries. Tourism
sunshine making acclimatization too, is a growing industry as more
and sun screen essential. areas are opening up, allowing
visitors tantalizing glimpses of a
Tibet’s eastern reaches are riddled once-forbidden world.
with gorges carved out by the three

Main prayer hall at Ganden Monastery, the first Gelugpa monastery in Tibet
Monk peering from behind a magnificent door at Labrang Monastery

528 TIBET

Lhasa 1 KEY

TIBET’S CAPITAL SINCE THE 7th century, Lhasa Street-by-Street area: see pp530–1
is an intoxicating introduction to Tibet. c Long distance bus station
The Dalai Lamas’ splendid but poignantly n Tourist information
empty seat, the Potala Palace, dominates t Temple
U Mosque
the city from its site on top of Marpo Hill. N Post office
The old Tibetan quarter to the east is
Lhasa’s most interesting area; its center- 0 meters 500
Statue, Tsepak piece is the revered Jokhang Temple. 0 yards 500
Lhakhang Around it is the Barkhor, which retains its
medieval character with smoky temples
and cobbled alleys. Most Tibetans come here as pilgrims.
The additions of concrete buildings and internet cafés
show how the city has changed over recent decades.

Drepung BEIJING ZHONG LU
Monastery
MINZU NAN LU n
Nechung
Monastery

NORBULINGKA BEI LU

6

NO RBULINGKA LU

7 c CHINGDOL ZHONG LU

Lhasa Main Bus
Airport Station

Strikingly-colored mural at the Lukhang Temple Kyi Chu

P Potala Palace t Ramoche It was replaced by a bronze
See pp534–5. statue of an eight-year-old
# 9am–5pm daily. & 6 fee. Sakyamuni (see pp30–31),
t Lukhang part of the dowry of another
The three-story Ramoche, just of his wives, the Nepalese
Ching Drol Chi Ling Park. north of the Barkhor area Princess Bhrikuti.
(see pp530–31), is the sister
Picturesquely located on an temple to the Jokhang. It was The reconstructed temple
island in the lake behind the built in the 7th century by features some huge prayer
Potala, and cloaked by willows Songtsen Gampo (see p520) to wheels, and is not as busy as
in summer, this temple is house the statue of Jowo the Jokhang. Next door is the
dedicated to the king of the Sakyamuni (Tibet’s most Tsepak Lhakhang, a chapel
water spirits (lu), who is venerated Buddha image), with an image of Jampa, the
depicted riding an elephant at brought by his Chinese wife Tibetan name for the Future
the back of the main hall. The Wencheng. According to Buddha (see p523).
upper floors are decorated with legend, the threat of Chinese
striking 18th-century murals, invasion after the king’s death
representing the Buddhist Path compelled his family to hide
to Enlightenment. Their great the statue inside the Jokhang.
attention to detail and vivid
stories offered visual guidance Prayer wheels at the Ramoche Temple
to the Dalai Lamas (see p520),
who retired here for periods
of spiritual retreat.

Buddhist myths dominate
the walls on the second floor,
while the top-floor murals
depict the esoteric yogic
practises of the Indian tantric
masters. They also illustrate
episodes in the life of Pema
Lingpa, ancestor of the 6th
Dalai Lama who is credited
with the Lukhang’s original
design in the 17th century.

LHASA 529

VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

* 2,700,000. k Lhasa Airport
at Gongkhar, 58 miles (93 km) SE
of Lhasa, then bus. c Main Bus
Station, CAAC, Minibus Station.
ª 4WD vehicle. n 208 Yuan
Lin Lu, (0891) 633 3476.
_ Losar (1st lunar month).

Founded by the 7th Dalai

Lama in 1755 and expanded

by his successors, the park

The Summer Palace of the Dalai Lamas in the Norbulingka contains several palaces,

Sera Monastery chapels, and buildings. The
path west from the entrance

LINGKOR BEI LU leads to the oldest palace, the
Kelsang Potrang, used by
2CHING DROL the 8th to the 13th Dalai
1 CHI LING Lamas. Its main hall has a
KHARNGA DONG LU DOSENGGE LU 3 LINGKUO
NYANGRAIN LU BEI DUAN DONG LU
CAAC NIGHT wealth of thangkas (see p536)
MARKET and a throne. More diverting
c

N is the Summer Palace, just
north of here, which was built
t BEIJING DONG LU for the present Dalai Lama in
1954. Its audience chamber
DOSENGGE LU Minibus
NAN DUAN Station
c
PEOPLE'S

PARK YUTHOK LU

5 holds bright murals depicting

BARKHOR 4U events from Tibetan history,
SQUARE from the tilling of the first
field to the building of the
BARKHOR

CHINGDOL DONG LU

Ganden

Monastery great monasteries, including

the Norbulingka. Next to it are

the Dalai Lama’s meditation

room and bedroom, preserved

exactly as he left them in

1959, when he escaped from

t Ani Tsankhung Nunnery LHASA CITY CENTER this palace disguised as a

Tibetan soldier and began his

# daily. & Ani Tsankhung Nunnery 4 journey to India. The Assembly
Jokhang Temple 5 Hall where he held state has
Situated in the old Tibetan Lukhang 2 a golden throne and colorful
quarter, the Ani Tsankhung murals depicting scenes from
Monastery is difficult to find.

Wandering through the busy Norbulingka 7 the Dalai Lama’s court, and

back alleys south of the Potala Palace 1 episodes from the lives of

Barkhor area in search of the Ramoche 3 Sakya Thukpa (Sakyamuni, the
place, can, however, be a Tibet Museum 6 Historical Buddha) and Tsong-
wonderful experience. It is khapa, founder of the Gelugpa

located in a yellow building E Tibet Museum order of monks (see p520).

on the street running parallel # 10am–5pm daily. &

and north of Chingdol Dong This impressive building

Lu. The nunnery’s main hall presents a rather one-sided

contains a beautiful image of version of Tibetan history. If

Chenresig, the multi-armed the propaganda is ignored,

Bodhisattva of Compassion however, the over 30,000

(see p523), and behind it lies relics are worth a visit. There

a meditation chamber used by are plenty of religious artifacts,

Songtsen Gampo in the 7th but the most interesting

century. An air of quiet serenity displays are of rare Tibetan

pervades this quaint place, musical instruments, medical

with its flower bushes and tools, and even a coracle.

spotless compound. The

nunnery’s main attraction is P Norbulingka

the warm welcome the # 9:30am–6pm daily. &

curious nuns give to visitors. Today a pleasantly scrubby

park, the Norbulingka (Jewel

t Jokhang Temple Park) was once the summer Brightly painted doorway,

See pp532–3. palace of the Dalai Lamas. Norbulingka

530 TIBET

Street-by-Street:The Barkhor

LHASA’S LIVELIEST NEIGHBORHOOD, the Butter stall
fascinating Barkhor bustles with pilgrims,
locals, and tourists eager to visit the Jokhang A stall-holder sells yak butter
(see pp532–3) – by dusk the crowds are
enormous. The pilgrimage circuit or kora that for burning in the Jokhang.
runs clockwise around the Jokhang is Tibet’s
holiest and has been since the 7th century; Widely available, it
market stalls have always lined the route to
Roof ornament, serve the pilgrims staying in the area. Many gives the area its
Jokhang Temple of the buildings in the Barkhor are ancient,
some dating back to the 8th century. distinctive
Despite the efforts of conservationists, some important
buildings have been demolished and replaced with less smell.
attractive traditional architecture. Still, the Barkhor’s
cobbled alleyways maintain a unique, archaic character.

BARKHOR TROMSHUNG

. Jokhang Temple
The magnificent Jokhang, Tibet’s most
important religious structure, sits at the
heart of the Bharkor, and is the structure
around which the rest of Lhasa developed.

Prayer flags
Two poles laden with flags
stand outside the Jokhang.

Vertical flag poles originated
in the Amdo region, and
represent battle flags

that have become
signs of peace.

KEY

Kora (holy route)

STAR SIGHTS Incense burner
Juniper bushes are burnt
. Jokhang in the four stone incense
. Meru Nyingba burners, or sangkang, which
mark the route of the kora.

LHASA 531

Tromzikhang
This 18th-century building
once housed government
officials such as the Ambans,
representatives of the Qing
emperor. Now a housing
complex, all but the front
was destroyed in the 1980s.

The Jamkhang is a
15th-century building
housing a two-story
image of the Maitreya.

The Nangmano,
complex is
home to 22
families.

JANG

BARKHOR

ONGTOBUK SANGLAM . Meru Nyingba
Originally founded in the 9th

century, this monastery was
enlarged in the 1800s to become

the Lhasa residence of the
Nechung Oracle (see p536).
Beautifully restored in 1999,

the building includes a
wing of public housing.

An ancient shrine
dedicated to Palden
Lhamo, the female
protector of Lhasa,

is surrounded by
modern buildings.

LabrangUNG LHO
Nyingba was
BARKHOR TR OM once home to
the 5th Dalai

Lama and
S H Tsongkhapa

at different
times.

0 meters 50

0 yards 50

BARKHOR

Stalls along the kora
Stalls selling all manner of intriguing bric-

à-brac, from cowboy hats to prayer flags,
line the entire pilgrimage route. The shops
behind the stalls have better quality goods,
including religious statuary, and carpets.

532 TIBET

Jokhang Temple

THE CONSTANT BUSTLE, gaudy paraphernalia Prostrating pilgrim
of worship, flickering butter lamps, and The Jokhang is Tibet’s most
wreaths of heady incense make the Jokhang venerated site. Pilgrims
Temple one of Tibet’s most memorable bow and pray on the
flagstones just outside
experiences. The Jokhang was founded in the temple doors.
AD 639 to house an image of the Buddha
Roof detail of brought as dowry by the Nepali Princess
fierce creature Bhrikuti on her marriage to King Songtsen
Gampo. Its location was chosen by another
wife of the king, the Chinese consort Princess Wencheng.
She declared that a giant female demon slumbered
beneath the site and a temple must be built over her
heart to subdue her. After the king’s death, Wencheng’s
own dowry image of Jowo Sakyamuni was moved from
the Ramoche (see p528) to the Jokhang, where it was
thought to be safer from invading forces.

Courtyard
This open courtyard, or dukhang,
is the focus for ceremonies during
festivals. The long altar holding
hundreds of butter lamps marks
the entrance to the interior.

Just inside the entrance are the
four Guardian Kings, the Chokyong,
one for each cardinal direction.

This stele is inscribed with
the terms of the Sino-Tibetan
treaty of AD 822, guaranteeing
mutual respect for the borders
of the two nations.

STAR SIGHTS Roof ornament Alternative
The spokes of the wheel of law entrance
. Chapel of Chenresig represent the eight paths to
enlightenment.
. Chapel of Jowo
Sakyamuni

. Inner Sanctum

LHASA 533

The chapel of Tsongkhapa has VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
an impressive and accurate image
of the founder of the Gelugpa order. The Barkhor, Lhasa. # 9am–6pm
daily. Visit from left to right
The chapel of clockwise. Inner Chapels #
Songtsen Gampo, 8am–noon. & _ Monlam,
where the king is during the first lunar month.
flanked by Wencheng
on the right and
Bhrikuti on the left.

. Chapel of Chenresig
A large statue of Chenresig, the Bodhisattva of

compassion, dominates this room. The doors
and frames, crafted by Nepalis in the 7th
century, are among the few remains of
the original temple.

The Jampa . Chapel of Jowo
enshrined here is Sakyamuni
a copy of the one
brought to Tibet by Pilgrims crowd around
Princess Bhrikuti. this impassive statue of the
12-year-old Sakyamuni to
make offerings and pray.
Part of Princess Wencheng’s
dowry, it is the most revered

image in Tibet.

Prayer Wheels . Inner Sanctum
Pilgrims spin the This houses some of the Jokhang’s most important
wheels on a route statues, including images of Guru Rinpoche, the
that surrounds the Jampa and a thousand-armed Chenresig. The
inner chapel called chapels lining the walls are visited clockwise,
the Nangkor, one of and there’s a line for the holiest, with monks
the three sacred at hand to enforce crowd discipline.
circuits of Lhasa.

534 TIBET

Potala Palace

BUILT ON LHASA’S highest point, . Golden Roofs
Marpo Hill, the Potala Palace is Seeming to float above the palace,
the greatest monumental structure in the gilded roofs (actually copper)
Tibet. Thirteen stories high, with over a cover funerary chapels dedicated
thousand rooms, it was once the to previous Dalai Lamas.
Bronze residence of Tibet’s chief monk and
roof statue leader, the Dalai Lama, and therefore
the center for both spiritual and temporal power.
These days, after the present Dalai Lama’s escape
to India in 1959, it is a vast museum, serving as a
reminder of Tibet’s rich and devoutly religious
culture, although major political events and
religious ceremonies are still held here. The first
palace was built by Songtsen Gampo in 631, and
this was merged into the larger building that
stands today. There are two main sections –
the White Palace, built in 1645, and the
Red Palace, completed in 1693.

The Chapel of the 5th Dalai
Lama contains a stupa gilded
with around 6,600 lb
(3,000 kg) of gold.

. Chapel of the 13th Red Palace
Dalai Lama Courtyard
Decorated with gold and
jewels, the stupa of the 13th The base is
Dalai Lama, containing his purely structural,
mummified remains, is holding the palaces
nearly 13 m (43 ft) high. onto the steep hill.

STAR SIGHTS Thangka
Storehouse
. Chapel of the 13th
Dalai Lama . 3D Mandala
This intricate mandala
. Golden Roofs of a palace, covered in
precious metals and
. 3D Mandala jewels, embodies aspects of
the path to enlightenment.

LHASA 535

VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Beijing Zhong Lu, Lhasa.
± (0891) 683 4362. # 9am–
5pm daily. & extra charges for
Golden Roof access and Exhibition
Room. ^ in chapels, otherwise
extra charges for photography.
8 Not suitable for those who
find stairs a problem.

View from the Roof of the Red Palace
On a clear day the view over the valley and on to the
mountains beyond is unequaled, although the newer
parts of Lhasa are less impressive.

Maitreya East Sunshine White Palace
Chapel Apartment The entrance to

the main building has

a triple stairway – the

middle set of stairs is

for the sole use of the

Dalai Lama.

The Eastern
Courtyard

School of
Religious
Officials

Defensive
Eastern
Bastion

Heavenly
King Murals
The East Entrance has
sumptuous images of
the Four Heavenly
Kings, Buddhist
guardian figures.

The Western Hall
Located on the first floor of the Red Palace,
the largest hall inside the Potala contains
the holy throne of the 6th Dalai Lama.

536 TIBET

Exploring Around Lhasa and drink from a holy conch
shell. The Tara Chapel next
LHASA’S ENVIRONS ARE DOTTED with the major monasteries door contains wooden racks
of Drepung, Nechung, Sera, and Ganden. Easily of scriptures and a statue of
accessible from Lhasa by bus, minibus, or hired vehicle, Prajnaparamita, the Mother of
these are ideal for day-trips, especially for those unable Buddhas and an aspect of the
to venture farther afield in Tibet. Agencies in Lhasa hire goddess Tara; the amulet on
out landcruisers along with a driver and guide, and also her lap contains a tooth said
handle the necessary permits. Vehicles can take up to to belong to Tsongkhapa.
five people – if looking for companions to share the Behind the Tsogchen, the
cost, check the bulletin boards in backpacker hotels. little Manjusri Temple has a
relief image of the Bodhisattva
of Wisdom, Jampalyang, chis-
eled out of rock. The circuit
continues north to the Ngagpa
College, then to various
colleges toward the southeast.

Each building contains
fine sculptures, though some
might prefer to skip them and
rest in the courtyard outside
the Tsogchen. Those who are
acclimatized can walk round
the Drepung kora or pilgrim
circuit, which passes rock
paintings and the cave
dwellings of nuns, and
offers great views.

t Nechung Monastery

A typically gory tantric painting at Nechung Monastery 4 miles (7 km) W of Lhasa.

# 8am–4pm daily (chapels close

t Drepung Monastery There is plenty of statuary, with between noon–3pm). &

5 miles (8 km) W of Lhasa. the finest images in the Chapel A fifteen-minute walk south-

# 8am–4pm daily (chapels close of the Three Ages at the back east from Drepung, Nechung

between noon–3pm). & of the Main Assembly Hall. Monastery was the seat of the

Drepung meaning “rice At the hall’s entrance, stairs Tibetan Oracle. The Oracle

heap,” was founded in 1416 lead to the upper floor from not only predicted the future,

by Jamyang Choje, a disciple where it is possible to see the but also protected the

of Tsongkhapa, the founder massive head and shoulders Buddha’s teachings and his

of the Gelugpa or Yellow Hat of the Maitreya Buddha, the followers. During consulta-

order of monks (see p520). In future Buddha or Jampa, tions with the Dalai Lama, the

its heyday in the 17th-century, rising up three stories. Oracle, dressed in an elab-

it was Tibet’s richest monas- Pilgrims prostrate before it orate and weighty costume,

tery, with four colleges and

10,000 monks; today there are THANGKAS AND MANDALAS
fewer than a thousand.

The site is vast and the Thangkas are religious paintings mounted on brocade that

easiest way to get around is carry painted or embroidered images inside a colored bor-

to follow the pilgrims, who der. Seen in temples, monasteries, and homes, they depict

circle the complex clockwise. subjects as diverse as the lives of Buddhas, Tibetan theology

From the entrance, turn left to and astrology, and mandalas or geometric representations of

the Ganden Palace, built in the cosmos. The Tashilunpo Monastery

1530 as a residence by the (see p544) displays gigantic thangkas

2nd Dalai Lama. His rather during its festivals each year.

plain apartments are upstairs Mandalas are often used as

on the seventh floor. The meditation aids by Buddhists

courtyard is usually busy with and are based on a pattern of

woodcarvers and block- circles and squares around a

printers creating prayer prints central focal point. The Potala

at great speed. Next is the Palace in Lhasa (see pp534–5)

Tsogchen or Main Assembly has a splendid three-dimensional

Hall, the most atmospheric mandala made of precious metal.

building in the complex. About Monks spend days creating

180 pillars hold up the roof, mandalas of colored sand that are

and the room is draped with swept away on completion to Mandala symbolizing
thangkas and hangings and signify the transient nature of life. the universe
decorated with suits of armor.

LHASA 537

heads west from the main
entrance, takes about an hour
to complete and passes some
beautiful rock reliefs.

t Ganden Monastery

28 miles (45 km) E of Lhasa. c

Shuttle from the square at Jokhang

Temple. # 8:50am–4pm daily. &

The farthest of the monasteries

from Lhasa, Ganden is

probably the one most worth

visiting, with its scenic setting

high on the Gokpori Ridge.

To get a feel of the place, it is

best to travel with the excited

Monks engaged in group debates at Sera Monastery pilgrims on the bus that

leaves from Lhasa’s Barkhor

would go into a trance before Tsogchen located farthest up area every morning at 6:30am,

making his pronouncements, the hill. It features wall-length returning at 2pm. The

concluding the session in a thangkas, a throne that was monastery was founded in

dead faint. Tibet’s last Oracle used by the 13th Dalai 1410 by Tsongkhapa, and

fled to India in 1959, and Lama, and images of its main building, the

now the monastery has only him and of Sakya Serdung Lhakhang,

a few caretaker monks. Yeshe, the founder has as its centerpiece

Nechung’s decor is startling of Sera monastery. a huge gold and

as the courtyard outside is At the top of the silver chorten (stupa

filled with gory paintings and path stands the or funerary mound)

demon torturers. Within the open-air debating with Tsongkhapa’s

chapels, leering sculptures of courtyard, well remains. However,

skulls loom out of the gloom. worth a visit at Rock painting, the buildings are
The airy Audience Chamber 3:30pm every day,
Sera Monastery not its main appeal.

on the second floor is a wel- when the monks Its highlight is the

come respite. Here, the Dalai assemble for debates. Their kora, which takes an hour to

Lama used to consult the ritualized gestures – clapping walk. The circuit offers fine

Oracle. The roof-level chapel is hands and stamping when a views of the landscape and a

dedicated to Padmasambhava, point is made – make it chorten or two that pilgrims

the Tantric Buddha, also fascinating to watch. The Sera (and visitors if they wish)

known as Guru Rinpoche. kora, or pilgrim circuit which must hop around on one leg.

t Sera Monastery A domestic yak on the steep hills surrounding Ganden Monastery

2 miles (4 km) N of Lhasa. # 3–5pm
daily. &

Founded in 1419 by disciples
of the Gelugpa order, Sera
Monastery was famous for its
warrior monks, the Dob-Doa.
Once home to 5,000 monks,
today there are less than one-
tenth that number, although
the energetic renovation
suggests that this may improve.

Activity centers around its
three colleges, visited in a
clockwise circuit. Turn left
from the main path to reach
the first college, Sera Me, that
was used for instruction in
Buddhist basics. Sera Ngag-
Pa, a little farther up the hill,
was for tantric studies and
Sera Je, next to it, was for
teaching visiting monks. Each
building has a dimly lit main
hall and chapels toward the
back that are full of sculptures.
The largest and most striking
building in the complex is the





540 TIBET

Samye Monastery 2

WITH ITS ORDERED DESIGN, wealth of . Jowo Sakyamuni Chapel
religious treasures, and stunning Samye’s most revered chapel
location, Samye makes a deep impres- centers on an image of
sion on visitors. Tibet’s first monastery, Sakyamuni at age 38. He
Samye was founded in the 8th century is flanked by two protector
during Trisong Detsen’s reign with the deities and ten
input of the great Buddhist teacher, Bodhisattvas.
Guru Rinpoche. Indian and Chinese
Tantric protector scholars, invited to Samye to translate
in Gongkhan Buddhist scriptures into Tibetan, argued
over the interpretation of doctrine, and so Trisong
Detsen held a public debate to decide which form of
Buddhism should be followed in Tibet. The Indian
school won out and Chinese-religious influence
gradually waned. Today the monastery has a well-
worn and eclectic feel, having been influenced by
numerous sects over the years.

. Chenresig Chapel
This chapel centers on
a stunning statue of
Chenresig, with an eye
painstakingly painted
on each of its
thousand hands.

Monks live
in quarters
on the upper
level of the
outer wall.

EXPLORING THE ÜTSE The outer wall facing
the Ütse is lined with prayer wheels
The Ütse is dimly lit, so take
a flashlight to explore. The and elaborate murals of Buddha.
entrance leads directly into
the Main Hall, with the
Chenrisig Chapel to the left
and the Gongkhan Chapel to
the right. The Jowo Sakyamuni
Chapel is at the far end of the
Main Hall. Numerous chapels
and the Dalai Lama’s quarters
are located on the second
story. The third story has
an open gallery lined with
impressive murals.

STAR SIGHTS

. Jowo Sakyamuni View of Samye Monastery
Chapel A superb view of the monastery can be had from the
surrounding hills. From here it is easy to see that the
. Chenresig Chapel monastery is laid out as a 3-D mandala (see p536).

Flags hung on the hills around Ganden Monastery to infuse the wind with prayers

TIBET 541

Guru Rinpoche VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
An 8th-century monk-
king from Swat in 93 miles (150 km) SE of Lhasa.
modern-day Pakistan, he c from Lhasa or Tsetang to ferry
is said to have subdued on Tsangpo, then truck. & ^
evil demons and establ- unless fee paid. _ Samye Festival,
ished Buddhism in Tibet. 15th day of fifth lunar month.
Images of him carrying a
thunderbolt are found
throughout the complex.

The mural to the left
of the entrance on the
third story depicts the
5th Dalai Lama receiving
the Mongol Khan Gushri

and his retinue.

Quarters of the Dalai Lama
This simple apartment, consisting of
anteroom, bedroom and throne room,

is full of relics, including Guru
Rinpoche’s hair and walking stick.

The main hall houses images and statues Main entrance Gongkhan
of Guru Rinpoche and the Buddhist kings, Chapel is
Trisong Detsen and Songtsen Gampo. The inscription on this stone packed with
stele (779 AD) declares that King draped statues of
Trisong Detsen has proclaimed fierce demons.
Buddhism as the state religion. A stuffed snake
guards the exit.

PLAN OF SAMYE COMPLEX Main entrance

Samye’s design echoes Tibetan Pehar
Buddhism’s cosmology of the universe. Kordzoling,
Many of the 108 buildings have been protector
destroyed, but the four ling chapels chapel
representing the island continents that
surround Mount Sumeru (the Ütse) are Entrance
still intact. Jampa Ling holds an impres- to Utse
sive mural of the complex as it once
was. The circular monastery wall is White
topped with 1,008 chortens that repre- chorten
sent Chakravla, the ring of 1,008 moun-
tains that surrounds the universe. Aryapalo Ling

Jampa Ling 0 meters 150
0 yards 150

542 TIBET

Nomad tents, at the edge of the breathtaking Namtso Lake

Tsurphu by both the Chinese authorities Namtso Lake 4
Monastery 3 and the Dalai Lama. The flood
of daily pilgrims who came 125 miles (200 km) NW of Lhasa.
Tolung Valley. 45 miles (70 km) W of for blessings has now stopped ª 4WD rented from Lhasa, 2–3 day
Lhasa. c daily from Barkhor Square and the monastery is rather round-trip. # daily. &
in Lhasa. Last bus back to Lhasa, 3pm. quiet, though several hundred
ª 4WD rented from Lhasa, 2–3 hrs. monks still reside here. BEAUTIFUL NAMTSO Lake, with
# 9am–2pm daily. & its classic Tibetan scenery
The Karmapa’s throne, an of azure water beneath snow-
SITUATED AT AN altitude of object of great veneration, is in capped peaks and grasslands
14,700 ft (4,480 m), this the audience chamber of the dotted with herds of yak, has
monastery was founded in the main hall. Here, a chorten made it the most popular
12th century by the Karmapa (stupa or funerary mound) overnight jeep trip from
or Black Hats order and is contains the relics of the 16th Lhasa. About 45 miles (70 km)
important as the home of the Karmapa, who died in Chicago long and 19 miles (30 km)
Karmapa Lama, the third most in 1981. The kora from behind wide, it is the second largest
important religious leader in the monastery takes three saltwater lake in China after
Tibet after the Dalai and hours, and provides magnifi-
Panchen Lamas (see p544). cent views but beware –
The present incumbent, the visitors must be acclimatized.
17th Karmapa, fled to India in
1999 at the age of 14. His THE EIGHT AUSPICIOUS SYMBOLS
departure was significant as
he was the only senior Tibetan The Eight Auspicious Symbols represent the Conch Shell
Buddhist official recognized offerings that were presented to Sakyamuni Endless Knot
Buddha, after he attained Enlightenment. Wheel of Law
One of the many brightly-colored Born as Siddhartha Gautama, prince of the
murals at Tsurphu Monastery kingdom of Kapilavastu, he renounced his
princely life at the age of 30, and went in
search of answers to the meaning of human
suffering and existence. After years of
penance, Siddhartha attained
Enlightenment after meditating under a
Bodhi tree in Bodh Gaya, India. Tibetans
regard the symbols as protective motifs
and use them to decorate flags and
medallions as well as tiles in Buddhist
temples, monasteries, and homes. The
Conch Shell is blown to celebrate
Sakyamuni’s Enlightenment; the Endless
Knot represents harmony, and the never-
ending passage of time; and the Wheel of
Law symbolizes the Buddha’s eightfold
path to Enlightenment. Other symbols
include the Golden Fish, representing
liberation from the Wheel of Life, and
the Lotus Flower that represents purity.

TIBET 543

Qinghai Hu (see p499). The THE BRITISH INVASION OF TIBET
flat land around it offers good
grazing, and is ususally ringed Alarmed by the growing influence of Tsarist Russia in the
with nomad encampments in
summer. From November to 19th century, Britain’s viceroy in India sent a diplomatic
May, the lake freezes over.
Most people stay a night at mission to Tibet in an effort to build links and facilitate
Tashi Dor, a monastery on a
lakeside hill. Bring a flashlight the free flow of trade. When the mission failed, an
and a warm sleeping bag.
The lake is situated at the expeditionary force – part of the Great Game (see p491) –
incredible height of 15,500 ft
(4,718 m), so visitors must be of 1,000 soldiers and 10,000 porters, led by
thoroughly acclimatized.
the dashing 26-year-old Colonel Francis

Younghusband, invaded Tibet in 1903.

As the force traveled inward, they killed

almost 700 peasants, who were armed

in part with magic charms to ward off

bullets. Then, in the world’s highest

battle, the British captured Gyantse Fort

with only four casualties, while the

Tibetans lost hundreds of men. The force

proceeded to Lhasa, where an agreement Francis

allowed Britain to set up trade missions. Younghusband

Highly decorated doorway to the About 650 ft (200 m) north- Built 20 years after Kumbum,
main chapel, Kumbum, Gyantse west is a compound housing the Pelkor Chode Monastery
the Kumbum and Pelkor was designed for all the local
Gyantse 5 Chode Monastery. Buddhist sects to use; its murky
Assembly Hall has two thrones,
158 miles (255 km) SW of Lhasa. The Kumbum, constructed one for the Dalai Lama and
Minibus: alternate days from Lhasa around 1440, is a magnificent one for the Sakya Lama. The
bus station. ª 4WD from Lhasa. six-story and 115-ft (35-m) main chapel at the back of the
Travel Permits required (see p519). high chorten, honeycombed hall has a statue of Sakyamuni,
with little chapels. It is built in the Historical Buddha, and
AN ATTRACTIVE, if dusty, small an architectural style unique to some impressive wooden roof
town, Gyantse is Tibet’s Tibet and this is the finest decorations. At the very top,
third largest settlement, famous extant example. A clockwise the Shalyekhang Chapel has
for its carpets, and usually route leads up past chapels some fine mandalas (see p536).
visited en route to Nepal (see full of statuary and decorated
p547). Often called “Heroic with 14th-century murals – On the way to Gyantse it is
City,” it was originally capital kumbum means “a hundred worth taking a detour to see
of a 14th-century kingdom, thousand images.” On the beautiful Yamdrok Lake, one
and the remnants of its old fourth floor, painted pairs of of the four holy Tibetan lakes
Dzong, or fort watches over eyes, signifying the all-seeing
the town. Heavily bombarded eyes of Buddha, look out in + Dzong
during the British invasion in each of the cardinal direc-
1904, when it was captured tions. The staircase in the # Mon–Sat. &
at great loss of life to the eastern chapel leads into the
Tibetans, it is today a dramatic chorten’s dome. There are t Kumbum & Pelkor
ruin with a small museum. dramatic views from the top. Chode Monastery
Here, Chinese propaganda
describes the “heroic battle # 9am–7pm Mon–Sat (closed
fought to defend the Chinese noon–3pm). & 6 for a fee.
motherland,” although at that
time China had no authority Kumbum, Gyantse, a three-dimensional mandala
over Tibet. The Dzong offers
good views from its roof.

544 TIBET

Shigatse & Tashilunpo 6 P Dzong
The leaders of Tsang once
CAPITAL OF THE TSANG REGION, Shigatse sits ruled from the mighty fortress
at an elevation of 12,800 ft (3,900 m). of Shigatse Dzong, in the
To its north, the Drolma Ridge rises steeply, north of town, built in the
topped by the ruins of the ancient Dzong, 14th century by Karma
once home to the kings of Tsang. Shigatse Phuntso Namgyel, a powerful
Tsang king. It once resembled
holds a powerful position in Tibet, and a small Potala but was de-
Striped cloth was the capital for a spell during the early stroyed by the Chinese in
woven on loom 17th century. After Lhasa regained its sta- 1959 during the Tibetan
tus, Shigatse continued to hold sway as the home of the uprising, and little remains
Panchen Lama, Tibet’s second most important religious today except the stumps of a
ruler, whose seat is located at Tashilunpo Monastery, the few burned walls. Nevertheless
town’s grandest sight. Worth exploring for a day or two, it is a good spot to take in the
Shigatse is the most comfortable place in Tibet after view over the town. A kora or
Lhasa, with decent food and accommodations on offer. holy route, marked by prayer
flags and mani stones, leads
A group of carpet makers tying richly colored market for a Tibetan here from the west side of
wool into intricate knots carpet. The process Tashilunpo. Keep your distance
is sufficiently inter- from the packs of stray dogs.
esting to warrant a
visit even if you ( Tibetan Market
have no intention At the Dzong’s southern base
of buying. A project on Tomzigang Lu stands a
initiated by the 10th small Tibetan market selling
Panchen Lama in souvenirs, such as prayer
1987, the business is wheels and incense, and a few
part-owned by the Tibetan necessities – medicine,
monastery. Conven- legs of lamb, and large knives.
iently, shipping can Just to the west of the market
be arranged on the is an old traditionally Tibetan
premises. neighborhood of narrow lanes
and tall whitewashed walls.

( Gang Gyen Carpet ( Night Market
Factory A small cluster of street food
stalls can be found at the
Qomolangma Lu. # 9am–12:30pm corner of Qomolangma Lu
and Jiefang Zhong Lu. Chairs
& 2:30–7pm Mon–Fri. and tables, and even the odd
sofa, line the sidewalks next
This factory, where local to the stalls. Enjoy a large
women produce beautiful bowl or noodles or a kabob.
carpets, first skeining the wool
than weaving it, is the place
to come if you are in the

THE 11TH PANCHEN LAMA Stall selling religious regalia at

The death of the 10th Panchen Lama in 1989 brought Tibet’s the Tibetan Market
leaders and the Chinese government into conflict over succes-
sion. Like the seat of the Dalai Lama, the Panchen Lama’s po- t Tashilunpo Monastery
sition is passed on through reincarnation. Traditionally, upon
the death of either of these leaders, top monks scour the land # Summer: 9am–12:30pm & 4–6pm
hoping to identify the new incarnate. In 1995, after an exten-
Mon–Sat; Winter: 10am–noon &
sive search, the Dalai Lama named a six-year- 3–6pm Mon–Sat. &
old boy, Gedhun Choeki Nyima, as the 11th
Panchen Lama. The chosen boy and his family A huge monastic compound
of golden-roofed venerable
soon disappeared and have not been seen buildings and cobbled lanes,
since. Keen to handpick the next Dalai Tashilunpo would take
Lama’s teacher, the Chinese authorities several days to explore fully.
sanctioned a clandestine ceremony It was founded in 1447 by
which ordained Gyancain Norbu Genden Drup, retrospectively
as the “official Panchen Lama” and titled the 1st Dalai Lama. It
immediately whisked him off to Beijing. grew suddenly important in

Young Gyancain Norbu, the China-

sanctioned 11th Panchen Lama

TIBET 545

VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

172 miles (278 km) W of Lhasa.
* 60,000. c Shigatse Bus
Station, Minibus Stand.
_ Tashilunpo Festival: 2nd
week of 5th lunar month.

Majestic Tashilunpo Monastery with Drolma Ridge rising behind golden image of Jampa, the
future Buddha, made in 1914.
1642, when the 5th Dalai holds the remains of the 4th It took almost a thousand arti-
sans four years to complete
Lama declared his teacher, the Panchen Lama. Built in 1662, it using more than 600 pounds
(275 kg) of gold.
monastery’s abbot, to be a was the only funeral chorten
The complex of buildings
reincarnation of the in the monastery to escape on the east side is the Kelsang.
It centers around a courtyard
Amithaba Buddha destruction during the where monks can be observed
praying, debating, and relaxing.
and the fourth Cultural Revolution. The 15th-century Assembly
Hall on the west side holds
reincarnation of the The larger, jewel the imposing throne of the
Panchen Lamas.
Panchen Lama, or studded chorten just
Those with energy left can
great teacher. Ever to the west holds the follow the monastery kora,
which takes about an hour. It
since it has been the remains of the 10th runs clockwise around the
outside of the walls before
seat of the Panchen Panchen Lama, who heading up to the Dzong. On
the way you’ll pass colorful
Lamas, who are died in 1989; it was rock reliefs, some of Guru
Rinpoche, and the huge white
second in authority The Wheel of Law, constructed in 1994 wall where a thangka of
Buddha is exposed to the sun
to the Dalai Lama. an auspicious symbol at a cost of eight during the joyous three-day
long Tashilunpo Festival.
Head up the main million US dollars.

path to the back of the Continue west for the Chapel

compound for the most of Jampa, which holds the

impressive sights. The gold and monastery’s most impressive

silver chorten straight ahead artifact, an 85-ft (26-m)

SHIGATSE CITY CENTER KEY

Dzong 3 c Long distance bus station
Gang Gyen Carpet n Tourist information
N Post office
Factory 1
Night Market 2 3
Tashilunpo Monastery 5
Tibetan Market 4 4

TOMZIGANG LU

KESANG KE LU Minibus
Stand

c

TSENDU LU

2 JIEFANG ZHONG LU Lhasa
BEIJING BEI LU
CHICHINAKA LU 5

1QOMOLANGMA LU N

0 meters 500 c
0 yards 500
Shigatse Bus
Station

Gyantse n

546 TIBET

Sakya Monastery 7 lamas. Sakya houses are
traditionally painted gray with
311 miles (500 km) SW of Lhasa. Detail from wall painting at Sakya red and white vertical stripes;
c bus or minibus from Lhasa to the colors are supposed to
Monastery symbolize the Bodhisattvas
Shigatse (7 hrs); every 2 days from Channa Dorje, Jampalyang,
Shigatse. ª 4WD rented from Lhasa. home of one of the two head and Chenresig respectively.
# 9am–6:30pm Mon–Sat. & 6 lamas, who now lives
overseas. Apart from the Everest Base
fee. Travel Permit required (see p519). statue-filled chapel, its rooms Camp 8
are mainly empty. Moving
THE TOWN OF Sakya is clockwise, the next chapel, Rongphu 336 miles (540 km) SW of
dominated by the huge, the Purkhang, holds images Lhasa. c from Lhasa to Shigatse (7
fortress-like monastery, that of Jowo Sakyamuni and
looms up from the gray Jampalyang among others, hrs), then rent 4WD (more difficult to
plains. Sakya or “Gray Soil” in while wall murals depict hire here than in Lhasa). ª 4WD from
Tibetan, was the capital of all tantric deities. The Main
Tibet in the 13th century, Assembly Hall has 40 huge Lhasa, 2 days; 4WD from CITS office
when monks of the Sakyapa wooden pillars, one of which
order formed an extraordinary was said to have been gifted near Shigatse Hotel or Tashi 1 restau-
alliance with the Mongols. In by Kublai Khan, while rant in Shigatse. & for Everest area.
1247, the head of the Sakyapa another is said to have come
order, Sakya Pandita, traveled from India on the back of a Travel Permits required (see p519).
to Mongolia and made a pact, tiger. The elaborately deco-
whereby the Mongols were rated hall has rich brocades, DESPITE THE spine-jarring,
the overlords, while the Sakya statues, and butter lamps and four-hour trip off the
monks ruled as their regents – holds thousands of religious Friendship Highway – that
the first time a lama was also texts (sutras). The fine central connects Lhasa to the Nepal
head of state. His nephew, Buddha image enshrines the border at Zhangmu – the
Phagpa, later became the remains of Phagpa. The craggy lunar landscape en
spiritual guide to the chapel to the north has 11 route to Everest is enchanting.
conqueror of China, Kublai silver chortens containing the Rongphu is a good place for a
Khan. In 1354, Mongol power remains of previous Sakya stop and at 16,500 ft (4,980 m)
waned, and infighting among is the highest monastery in
the religious sects led to a the world. Although it has
decline in Sakya’s influence. some good murals, the
interior is not as riveting as its
Originally, there were two stunning location in front of
monasteries on either side of Everest’s forbidding north
the Trum River, but the face in the Rongphu Valley.
northern one was destroyed The monastery was founded
during the Cultural Revolution in 1902 on a site that had
(see pp64–5). The mid-13th been used by nuns as a
century Southern Monastery, meditation retreat for
built by Phagpa, is a typical centuries, and is now home
Mongol structure, with thick to some 30 monks.
walls and watchtowers. The
entrance leads to a courtyard Everest Base Camp lies
with an enormous prayer pole 5 miles (8 km) to the south.
in the center. To the left is the The trip across the glacial
Puntsok Palace, the traditional plain takes about 15 minutes
by vehicle or two hours on
Houses at Sakya Village, painted gray with red and white stripes foot. It is just a jumble of
tents, with a makeshift tea-
house and the world’s highest
post box, but the views of
Mount Everest, the world’s
highest mountain at a
staggering 29,029 ft (8,848 m),
are absolutely unforgettable.

The entire Rongphu and
Everest area has been
designated a nature reserve
that covers 13,100 sq miles
(34,000 sq km), and borders
three national parks in Nepal.
A spectacular viewpoint at the
Pangla Pass en route to
Rongphu has a chart that
helps identify peaks over