3
2 4
Ottoman Rule and the Birth of Zionism 1 An illuminated
Four centuries of Ottoman Turkish rule of Palestine began in manuscript showing
1516. Vast architectural projects were carried out in Jerusalem a battle between
under the great sultan Suleyman the Magnificent (1520–66), Crusaders and Muslims
who built the Old City walls. By the 18th century, however, the during the Crusades.
Ottoman Empire was seen as weak and vulnerable. With its 2 A portrait of Ottoman
continuing decline, the European nations, newly empowered sultan Suleyman
by the Industrial Revolution, took a renewed interest in the the Magnificent.
Holy Land. A British consul arrived in Jerusalem in 1838, fol 3 Napoleon during
lowed by diplomats from France and Prussia. Meanwhile, in his brief conquest
Western and Central Europe, a movement for Jewish national of Jaffa in 1799.
selfdetermination, known as Zionism, began growing. Political 4 Jewish immigrant
Zionism, which sought to achieve an independent Jewish state settlers at Rishon Le Zion
through political and diplomatic initiatives, was founded in in the early 20th century.
1896 by Theodor Herzl, a Budapestborn Austrian journalist.
Turkish rule of Palestine was ended by the British during
World War I. In the Balfour Declaration of 1917, the British
government announced its support for “the establishment in
Palestine of a national home for the Jewish people”, a promise
that became part of the British Mandate for Palestine, which
was approved by the League of Nations in 1922.
1291 1516 1799
The last Crusader The Ottomans Napoleon conquers
territories in the Holy seize control of Jaffa, massacring the
Land, including Akko, Palestine from Ottoman garrison
fall to the Mamelukes. the Mamelukes. and civilians.
1839
British Jew Sir Moses 1882
Montefiore first Following pogroms in
proposes the idea Russia, Jews settle in
of a Jewish State. Palestine and establish
agricultural villages.
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1
Arab-Jewish Conflict 1 Jewish refugees
At the outbreak of World War I, some 500,000 Arabs and disembarking at Tel
about 85,000 Jews were living in Palestine. During the 1920s Aviv in 1939.
and 1930s, about 250,000 Jews, many of them refugees 2 A 1947 poster
from Nazi Germany, arrived in Palestine. Each new wave of showing Theodor Herzl,
immigrants increased the tension between the Arab and Jewish founder of Zionism.
communities. The Arab Revolt, launched in 1936, led to a six- 3 British troops
month general strike and violence between Palestinian Arabs departing from
and both Palestinian Jews and the British. In 1939, as war Palestine in 1948.
neared in Europe, the British government, in an attempt
to improve relations with potential Arab and Muslim allies, 4 Ben Gurion officially
proclaiming the state
published a “white paper” drastically limiting Jewish immi- of Israel in 1948.
gration to Palestine – just as the situation of the Jews of
Germany was becoming desperate. The immigration ban
continued after World War II (including for Holocaust survivors),
setting the stage for a confrontation between the Zionist
movement and the British government. The mainstream
Jewish community in Palestine, led by David Ben-Gurion of
the socialist Mapai party, largely cooperated with the British,
while more radical Zionist groups, such as the right-wing
Irgun (Etzel) and the Lehi (Stern Gang), launched bloody
Timeline of events
1910 1918 1920s
Degania, the British General Arab opposition to
first kibbutz, Allenby ends Zionism and Jewish
is founded Ottoman rule immigration to
near the Sea in Palestine. Palestine grows.
of Galilee.
1916
Great Britain and 1929
France divide up the Arab riots culminate in a
Levant in the secret series of pogroms against
Sykes-Picot Agreement. Jews in Palestine.
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2 4
attacks against the British as well as Arabs, including civilians.
Unable to control the spiraling situation, the British placed the THE GREEN LINE
“Palestine question” before the newly formed United Nations. After the 1948 war,
On 29 November 1947 the UN General Assembly voted for the Israeli, Jordanian and
partition of Palestine into an Arab state and a Jewish state, with Egyptian negotiators
Jerusalem under international administration.
used green ink to
The Creation of Israel indicate the armistice
Right after the partition vote, the country descended into civil lines on maps. The
“Green Line” created
war. When the British left on 15 May 1948, two things happened two new geopolitical
immediately: Ben-Gurion declared the establishment of the entities: the West Bank
State of Israel; and the armies of Lebanon, Syria, Iraq, Jordan and the Gaza Strip.
and Egypt invaded. To the surprise of many, the Israelis held Israel has occupied
on and even increased the territory under their control. At the the West Bank since
end of the 1948 war, Israel controlled 77 per cent of Mandatory 1967 (it withdrew from
Palestine, the West Bank was occupied by Jordan, the Gaza Gaza in 2005) but many
Strip was under Egyptian administration, and Jerusalem was still see the Green Line
a divided city, with the Old City – including the Western Wall – as the basis for the
under Jordanian control. During the fighting some 700,000 borders of a future
Palestinian Arabs fled or were expelled from Israeli territory Palestinian state.
(about 180,000 remained).
1933 1936 1949
German Jews The Arab Revolt Armistice agreements
fleeing the against the British between Israel and
Nazis begin Mandate and Jewish her Arab neighbours
immigrating immigration begins. are signed in Rhodes.
to Palestine.
1946 1948
The Irgun (Etzel), a Ben-Gurion declares
radical Zionist militia, the establishment
blows up Jerusalem’s of the State of Israel.
King David Hotel.
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DISCOVER A Brief History
1 2
Arab-Israeli Wars after 1948
Upon its establishment, Israel immediately began resettling
Jewish refugees from Europe and the Middle East. Over the Did You Know?
next two decades, 850,000 Jews fled or were forced to leave the
Arab countries, most of them finding refuge in Israel. The state In 1969 Israel’s Golda
of war between Israel and its Arab neighbours continued. In Meir became the world’s
1956, the Israeli army swept into Sinai as part of an unsuccessful first female prime
French and British plan to take back control of the Suez Canal, minister not from a
nationalized by Egypt’s President Nasser. In the spring of 1967, political dynasty.
Egypt expelled UN peacekeeping forces from Sinai, blockaded
the Straits of Tiran to Israeli shipping and sent ground forces
into Sinai. In response, Israel launched a pre-emptive attack that
destroyed the air forces of Egypt, Syria, Jordan and Iraq on the
ground. By the time the Six-Day War ended, Israel had taken
control of the Golan Heights from Syria, the Gaza Strip and Sinai
from Egypt, and East Jerusalem and the West Bank from Jordan.
The Quest for Peace
The short Yom Kippur War of 1973 between Egypt, Syria and
Israel changed little on the ground, but did pave the way for the
1979 Camp David Accords, a peace treaty between Egypt and
Timeline of events
1967 1994 1995
Israel defeats its Jordan and Israeli Prime Minister
Arab neighbours Israel sign a peace Yitzhak Rabin is
in the Six-Day War, treaty and open assassinated by a right-
tripling the territory their borders. wing Jewish extremist.
under its control.
1977 1993
Israel’s right-wing Likud Israel and the PLO
Party comes to power, sign the Oslo
ending three decades Accords.
of Labor Party rule.
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4
Israel under which Sinai was returned to Egypt. In the late 1 Jordanian refugees
1980s, the Palestine Liberation Organization (PLO) concluded crossing into occupied
that their violence against civilians was strengthening Israeli Jordan territory during
resolve and winning them little international sympathy. Much the Six-Day War in 1967.
more effective was the Intifada (“shaking off”), a grass-roots 2 Palestinian
Palestinian revolt against the Israeli occupation in the Gaza demonstrations in
Strip and West Bank, which began in late 1987. In the wake of the Gaza strip in 1988,
the First Gulf War of 1991, the Americans brokered a meeting during the Intifada.
between Israeli and Palestinian delegations that led to the 3 The historic
signing of the Oslo Accords in 1993. handshake between
Yitzhak Rabin and Yasser
Israel and the Palestinian Territories Today Arafat at the signing of
As a result of Israeli anger at Palestinian suicide attacks during the Oslo Accords in 1993.
the Second Intifada (2000–05), the bitter intra-Palestinian rift 4 Present-day residents
between the Fatah-ruled West Bank and Hamas-ruled Gaza, of Jerusalem shopping at
and repeated violent confrontations between Hamas and a market in the Old City.
Israel, the Palestinian-Israeli peace process has broken down.
Despite the continued construction of Israeli settlements by
Israel’s right-wing government – in defiance of the international
community – attempts to find a solution that will bring lasting
peace to the region persevere.
2004 2006 2007
Palestinian The Islamist militant Hamas seizes control
President Yasser group Hamas defeats of the Gaza Strip
Arafat dies in a Fatah in Palestinian from Fatah and the
Paris hospital. Legislative Council Palestinian Authority.
elections.
2005 2018
Israel unilaterally
withdraws from The US embassy in
the Gaza Strip. Israel is controversially
moved from Tel Aviv
to Jerusalem.
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JUDAISM
Judaism is based on the belief that a single, transcendent God who
revealed himself to the prophets of the Hebrew Bible is present
in human affairs and maintains a covenantal relationship with the
Jewish people. It is the role of the Jews in history to inspire humankind
to recognize God’s omnipresence and purpose. For traditional Jews,
Judaism is an all-encompassing way of life – its legal system, Halacha,
DISCOVER Judaism Jewish peoplehood. Whereas Christianity and Islam seek converts,
guides their conduct, and their identity incorporates a sense of
Judaism does not proselytize because, according to the Talmud,
“the righteous of all nations have a share in the world to come”.
RABBINIC JUDAISM
Jewish worship was originally centered
on animal sacrifices offered by priests in
the Temple in Jerusalem. After the destruc
tion of the Second Temple in AD 70 (p48),
pilgrimages and sacrifices were replaced
by prayer and study in local synagogues.
The rabbis who led this transformation
also wrote down the Oral Law, creating a
record of legal deliberations, the Talmud,
that is still studied and debated today.
STREAMS IN JUDAISM
Jews have responded to the challenges
of modernity in widely divergent ways.
Founded in Germany in 1810, the Reform Jews praying at the Western Wall in
Movement emphasizes Judaism’s ethical Jerusalem, the most holy site in Judaism
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traditions over ritual obligations. The
Haredim (ultra-Orthodox) interpret
Halacha (Jewish law) very stringently –
much more so than the rabbis of centuries
past – while Modern Orthodoxy strives
to meld adherence to Halacha with life
in the modern world. The Conservative
Movement believes that for Judaism
to remain both authentic and relevant,
Halacha is still binding but must evolve.
WOMEN IN JUDAISM THE TORAH
According to traditional Jewish law, The first five books of the Hebrew
Jewish identity is passed down via the Bible – Genesis, Exodus, Leviticus,
mother, but in centuries past women’s Numbers and Deuteronomy – are
roles were largely domestic. Today, the known as the Torah (Pentateuch).
Reform, Conservative, Reconstructionist Judaism’s most central and sacred
and Jewish Renewal Movements accord text, it serves as the basis for Judaism’s
full equality to women, and liberal moral code, legal system and theology.
Orthodox streams are searching for ways The text of the Torah – handwritten
to be ritually inclusive. The demand that on a parchment scroll – is chanted
part of the Western Wall in Jerusalem be publically in synagogues on Saturday
set aside for gender-egalitarian prayers mornings over the course of each year
has been met with strong opposition from (or, in some communities, three years).
ultra-Orthodox political parties (p91).
Women throwing candy
during a bar mitzvah by
the Western Wall
A group of Orthodox Jews
dancing in the plaza in front
of the Western Wall
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CHRISTIANITY
Initially a sect within Judaism, Christianity grew out of the life
and teachings of Jesus of Nazareth, whom Christians believe was
anointed by God as the savior of humanity. Christian denominations
diverge on significant points of theology, but almost all believe that
God, while unitary, exists as God the Father, God the Son (Jesus
Christ) and God the Holy Spirit. They also hold that Jesus died a
DISCOVER Christianity resurrected and ascended into Heaven; and that humanity awaits
physical death on the Cross to atone for the sins of humanity, was
Christ’s Second Coming and the Day of Judgment. Christianity is
followed by about 2.4 billion people – one in every three people –
among them 1.3 billion Catholics and 920 million Protestants.
JESUS
Jesus of Nazareth was a Jew who lived
during the 1st century AD in the Roman
province of Judaea (Iudaea). His life and
teachings are recounted in the New
Testament. Most Christians believe
that Jesus was the Incarnation of God
and the Messiah (Christ) prophesied in
the Hebrew Bible. His birth is celebrated
on Christmas, his Crucifixion on Good
Friday and his Resurrection on Easter. The Feast of the Immaculate Conception
at St Anne’s Church in Jerusalem
THE NEW TESTAMENT
The Christian Bible consists of two
parts: the Old Testament (essentially the
Hebrew Bible); and the New Testament,
whose 27 books include the Gospels
(“good news”) of Matthew, Mark, Luke
and John. Written down in
Greek in the late 1st and
early 2nd century AD,
The domes of the
Church of the Holy
Sepulchre in Jerusalem
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the New Testament – the foundational text
of Christian theology – reveals the life and
teachings of Jesus and his apostles.
CHRISTIANS IN THE HOLY LAND
About 160,000 Christians, 80 per cent
of them Arabic-speaking, live in Israel.
Constituting 2 per cent of the population,
60 per cent are Melkite (Greek) Catholics
and 30 per cent are Greek Orthodox. Of the
West Bank’s 50,000 Christians – 1.7 per
cent of the population – about half are
Greek Orthodox and a third are Catholics,
mostly Eastern but also Roman (Latin). ICONS
Other Christian denominations in the A central feature of Eastern and
Holy Land include Anglicans, Armenians, Oriental Orthodox church decoration,
Copts, Ethiopians, Lutherans, Maronite icons are visual representations of
Catholics, Russian Orthodox and Syriacs. Jesus, Mary, the saints and the angels
that worshippers venerate in order to
THE EUCHARIST help them feel the presence of God’s
Also known as Holy Communion, the holiness. In Orthodox churches, an
Eucharist is a Christian ritual in which icon-adorned wall called an iconostasis
bread (or a wafer) and wine (or grape juice) (icon screen) – inspired by the archi-
are consumed as a memorial for Jesus’s tecture of the Temple in Jerusalem
sacrifice on the Cross. It commemorates (p48) – stands between the nave,
Jesus’s Last Supper, at which he identified where lay worshipers pray, and the
bread with his body and wine with his sanctuary, where the priest conducts
blood. Most denominations believe part of the service.
that Jesus is present, either literally
or symbolically, at the Eucharist.
The cross is used Domes have been a
to symbolize the feature of Christian
Crucifixion of Christ. church architecture
since the Byzantine era.
Praying with a cross while
undertaking a pilgrimage
along the Via Dolorosa
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ISLAM
Islam is an Abrahamic religion whose core belief is the absolute oneness and
uniqueness of God (Allah), who is both all-powerful and merciful. The Arabic
word islam means “submission to the will of God”, revealed in the Qu’ran (Koran)
through the Prophet Muhammad – the last in a series of prophets that began
with Adam and includes Noah, Abraham, Moses, Solomon and Jesus. The Islamic
legal code, Shari’a, governs every aspect of traditional Muslims’ day-to-day life.
DISCOVER Islam According to Islamic theology, on the Day of Resurrection the righteous will
be rewarded and sinners punished. About one in four people – some 1.8 billion
people – follow Islam worldwide.
THE PROPHET MUHAMMAD
Believed by Muslims to be God’s final
prophet, Muhammad (c 570–632) began
receiving revelations at the age of 40.
In 622 he was forced to flee to Medina
because of opposition by pagans, an
event known as the Hijra (Hegira).
Muhammad conquered Mecca in 630,
and by the end of his life Islam ruled
much of Arabia. Sayings and traditions The beautiful interior of the
associated with Muhammad, known as Mosque of Al-Jazzar in Akko
Hadith, serve as an authoritative source
of moral guidance and law second only
to the Qu’ran. THE MOSQUE
THE QU’RAN The interior of a mosque (masjid in Arabic)
The Qu’ran, the holy book of Islam, is usually includes a mihrab, a niche that indi-
cates the direction of Mecca
regarded as the final revealed word (the holiest city of Islam), and
of God, transmitted verbally to the a minbar, a raised pulpit from
Prophet Muhammad by the Archangel which the imam delivers his
Jibril (Gabriel). It is divided into 114 Friday sermon. Many mosques
suras (chapters) that are arranged also have a minaret, a spire
roughly from longest to shortest. from which the call to prayer
Many figures from the Hebrew Bible is issued five times a day.
and the New Testament appear in the
Qu’ran in narrative passages that differ
in various details from their Jewish
and Christian counterparts.
The King Abdullah
Mosque in Amman, with
its decorative blue dome
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THE FIVE PILLARS OF ISLAM
Shahadah – The Muslim declaration of
faith: “There is no god but God (Allah) and
Muhammad is the messenger of God.”
Salah – Set daily prayers, which are
performed in the direction of the Kaaba,
a shrine near the centre of the Great
Mosque in Mecca (Saudi Arabia), five
times a day.
1
Zakat – The giving of a set proportion
of one’s wealth to charity.
Sawm – Fasting during daylight hours
for the entire holy month of Ramadan,
the ninth month of the Islamic calendar.
Hajj – The pilgrimage to the holy city
of Mecca, which all Muslims, if they are
able, are enjoined to undertake at least
once in their lives.
2
1 Zakat donations are collected.
2 Worshippers pray at
Jerusalem’s Al-Aqsa Mosque
while observing the sawm during
the holy month of Ramadan.
3 Thousands of Muslim pilgrims
circle the Kaaba in the Great
Mosque in Mecca, Saudi Arabia,
while undertaking the hajj. 3
Did You Know?
Mosques are decorated
with patterns and callig-
raphy because Islamic
law forbids images of
sentient beings.
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EXPERIENCE
JERUSALEM
Pilgrims on the Mount of Olives
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Muslim Quarter .......................................66
Jewish Quarter ........................................86
Christian Quarter................................ 104
Armenian Quarter
and Mount Zion.....................................120
Mount of Olives
and City of David .................................128
Jerusalem City Centre ......................138
Beyond the Centre .............................154
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EXPLORE
JERUSALEM
SHEIKH SHEIKH
JARRAH JARRAH
This guide divides Jerusalem into six areas,
as shown on this map. Find out more about
each area on the following pages. For areas
beyond the centre see p154.
AMERICAN
AMERICAN
COLONY COLONY
GEULA GEULA
American American
Colony Hotel
Colony Hotel
BEIT BEIT
YISRAEL YISRAEL
St George’s St George’s
Cathedral Cathedral
MEA MEA BAB EL- BAB EL-
SHE’ARIM ZAHRA ZAHRA
SHE’ARIM
MAHANE MAHANE Davidka Davidka
St Etienne
YEHUDA YEHUDA Square Square Monastery St Etienne
Monastery
Rockefeller Rockefeller EL-SAWANA
EL-SAWANA
Museum Museum
JERUSALEM
JERUSALEM
CITY CENTRE
CITY CENTRE
p138 p138
MORASHA
NAKHLA’OT Zion Zion Russian Russian MORASHA Damascus Damascus
NAKHLA’OT
St Anne’s
Square Square Compound Compound Gate Gate MUSLIM MUSLIM St Anne’s
Church
Church
QUARTER
QUARTER
City
City
NAKHALAT Walls Walls p66 p66 Lions’ Tomb of the
NAKHALAT
Lions’
Tomb of the
SHIV’A SHIV’A Gate Gate Virgin Mary
Virgin Mary
Safra Safra Monastery of
Monastery of
Square Square Church of Church of the Flagellation
the Flagellation
MOUNT OF
the Holy the Holy MOUNT OF
Sepulchre Sepulchre OLIVES OLIVES
Church of
Church of
Temple Temple All Nations All Nations
CHRISTIAN
Mamilla Mamilla CHRISTIAN Lady Lady Mount Mount City City
Cemetery Cemetery QUARTER Tunshuq’s Tunshuq’s Walls Walls
QUARTER
Palace
Palace
Church of the
p104 p104 Church of the
Pater Noster
Pater Noster
OLD CITYY
Ha-atsmaut Ha-atsmaut OLD CIT
Garden Garden Kidron Kidron
MAMILLA Jaa The Jaa The Western Western Museum of Valley Valley
MAMILLA
Museum of
MOUNT OF OLIVES
Wall
Gate Citadel Citadel Wall Islamic Art Islamic Art MOUNT OF OLIVES
Gate
DAVID’S DAVID’S JEWISH JEWISH Jerusalem Jerusalem AND CIT AND CITY OF DAVIDY OF DAVID
p128
p128
Archaeological
REHAVIA VILLAGE VILLAGE St James’s St James’s QUARTER Archaeological
REHAVIA
QUARTER
Cathedral Cathedral Park Park
King David King David p86 p86
Jewish
Jewish
Hotel Hotel City City Cemeteries Cemeteries
City City Walls Walls
YEMIN YEMIN Walls Walls Zion Zion
MOSHE MOSHE Gate Gate CITY OF CITY OF
TALBIYA TALBIYA
ARMENIAN
Sultan’s Sultan’s ARMENIAN DAVID DAVID
RAS EL-AMUD
Pool Pool QUARTER AND RAS EL-AMUD
QUARTER AND
MOUNT ZION
MOUNT ZION
p120 p120
SILWAN SILWAN
Liberty Bell Liberty Bell
Gardens Gardens
GERMAN GERMAN
COLONY COLONY
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REGIONAL LOCATOR MAP
SHEIKH SHEIKH
JARRAH JARRAH
JERUSALEM
AMERICAN
AMERICAN
COLONY COLONY
GEULA GEULA
American American
Colony Hotel
Colony Hotel
BEIT BEIT
YISRAEL YISRAEL
St George’s St George’s
Cathedral Cathedral
MEA MEA BAB EL- BAB EL-
SHE’ARIM ZAHRA ZAHRA
SHE’ARIM
MAHANE MAHANE Davidka Davidka
St Etienne
YEHUDA YEHUDA Square Square St Etienne Monastery
Monastery
Rockefeller Rockefeller EL-SAWANA
EL-SAWANA
Museum Museum
JERUSALEM
JERUSALEM
CITY CENTRE
CITY CENTRE
p138 p138
MORASHA
NAKHLA’OT Zion Zion Russian Russian MORASHA Damascus Damascus
NAKHLA’OT
St Anne’s
Square Square Compound Compound Gate Gate MUSLIM MUSLIM St Anne’s
Church
Church
QUARTER
QUARTER
City
City
NAKHALAT Walls Walls p66 p66 Lions’ Tomb of the
NAKHALAT
Tomb of the
Lions’
SHIV’A SHIV’A Gate Gate Virgin Mary
Virgin Mary
Monastery of
Safra Safra Monastery of
Square Square Church of Church of the Flagellation
the Flagellation
MOUNT OF
the Holy the Holy MOUNT OF
Sepulchre Sepulchre OLIVES OLIVES
Church of
Church of
Temple Temple All Nations All Nations
CHRISTIAN
Mamilla Mamilla CHRISTIAN Lady Lady Mount Mount City City
Cemetery Cemetery QUARTER Tunshuq’s Tunshuq’s Walls Walls
QUARTER
Palace
Palace
Church of the
p104 p104 Church of the
Pater Noster
Pater Noster
OLD CITYY
Ha-atsmaut Ha-atsmaut OLD CIT
Garden Garden Kidron Kidron
MAMILLA
MAMILLA Jaa The The Western Western Museum of Valley Valley
Museum of
Jaa
MOUNT OF OLIVES
Wall
Gate Citadel Citadel Wall Islamic Art Islamic Art MOUNT OF OLIVES
Gate
DAVID’S DAVID’S JEWISH JEWISH Jerusalem Jerusalem AND CIT AND CITY OF DAVIDY OF DAVID
p128
p128
REHAVIA REHAVIA VILLAGE VILLAGE St James’s St James’s QUARTER Archaeological
Archaeological
QUARTER
Cathedral Cathedral Park Park
King David King David p86 p86
Jewish
Jewish
Hotel Hotel City City Cemeteries Cemeteries
City City Walls Walls
YEMIN YEMIN Walls Walls Zion Zion
MOSHE MOSHE Gate Gate CITY OF CITY OF
TALBIYA TALBIYA
ARMENIAN
Sultan’s Sultan’s ARMENIAN DAVID DAVID
Pool Pool QUARTER AND RAS EL-AMUD
RAS EL-AMUD
QUARTER AND
MOUNT ZION
MOUNT ZION
p120 p120
SILWAN SILWAN
Liberty Bell Liberty Bell
Gardens Gardens
GERMAN GERMAN
COLONY COLONY
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A bustling street in the Muslim Quarter
MUSLIM QUARTER
The largest neighbourhood of the Old City,
the Muslim Quarter was laid out in its present
configuration under the Byzantines. In the 12th
century, it was taken over by the Crusaders, who
built a wealth of churches and Christian institu
tions – many of them along the Via Dolorosa,
which stretches westward from Lions’ Gate. In the
14th and 15th centuries, the Mamelukes rebuilt
extensively, especially in areas near the Temple
Mount (AlHaram ashSharif), bequeathing the
city an architectural legacy of elegant mosques,
madrasas and pilgrims’ hostels featuring half
domeshaped entrances, striped masonry and
elegant Arabic inscriptions. The monumental
Damascus Gate, meanwhile, was constructed
in the 1500s on the order of Ottoman sultan
Suleyman the Magnificent.
Like the Old City’s three other quarters, the
Muslim Quarter was given its current religious
designation in the 19th century and was reli
giously mixed until the communal violence
of the 1920s and 1930s. Today, the most densely
populated and poorest neighbourhood of the Old
City, the area is linked to the heart of Arab East
Jerusalem via its colourful, crowded souks (markets).
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MUSLIM QUARTER 0 metres 0 metres 100 N 100 N
S U L T A N S U L E Y M A N
0 yards 0 yards 100 100
Must See JERUSALEMJERUSALEM S U L T A N S U L E Y M A N Storks’ Storks’
Tower
Tower
1 Temple Mount CITY CENTRECITY CENTRE
p138 p138
Experience More Old City Old City
S U
2 Monastery of the Flagellation S U L E Y M A N L E Y M A N Walls Walls
3 Ecce Homo Arch S U LT A N S U LT A N EL-MU'AZMIYA
EL-MU'AZMIYA
4 Lady Tunshuq’s Palace Herod’s Herod’s E L - M U ' A Z M I Y A
E L - M U ' A Z M I Y A
Gate
Gate
5 Cotton Merchants’ Market
6 Chain Street Old City Old City Indian Indian
7 Central Souk Walls Walls Hospice Hospice Q A D I S I E H A L - U M A R I A L - U M A R I
8 Damascus Gate S E ' A D Y A S E ' A D Y A
Q A D I S I E H
9 Herod’s Gate S A L A H I Y A S A L A H I Y A
10 St Anne’s Church Damascus Damascus I BN J AR A H I BN J AR A H E L - B U S T A M I R U M M A N R U M M A N B U R J L A Q L A Q B U R J L A Q L A Q
E L - B U S T A M I
11 Lions’ Gate Gate Gate E L - M A W L A W I Y A E L - M A T H A N A E L - H A M R A E L - M A T H A N A E L - H A M R A St Anne’s St Anne’s YusefiyaYusefiya
E L - M A W L A W I Y A
Church Church
Pool of Pool of
Eat R I S A S R I S A S MUSLIMMUSLIM S H E I K H H A S A N Bethesda Bethesda CemeteryCemetery
S H E I K H H A S A N
1 Abu Shukri QUARTERQUARTER A A St Anne’s St Anne’s
2 Ja’far Sweets S H A D A D S H A D A D N N Monastery Monastery
Sheikh Sheikh T O N T O N MOUNTMOUNT
Drink E L - W A D E L - W A D Reihan Reihan Q A D I S I E H Q A D I S I E H I A I A Lions’ Gate Lions’ Gate OF OLIVESOF OLIVES
S H E I K H R E I H A N
S H E I K H R E I H A N
Mon
Monastery ofastery of
3 Viennese Café the Flagellationgellation AND CITY AND CITY
the Fla
El-Aqsa El-Aqsa EL-GHAZALIEL-GHAZALI OF DAVIDOF DAVID
SQUARE
SQUARE
SHAAR HA-ARAYOT
Convent of the E L - R A H B A T E L - R A H B A T SHAAR HA-ARAYOT School School p128 p128
Convent of the
EL-TUTA EL-TUTA Sisters of Zion
H A - R A M A K H I M
H A - R A M A K H I M
Sisters of Zion
VIA DOLOROSA VIA DOLOROSA Ecce El-Omariyya K I N G F A I S A L K I N G F A I S A L Gate of Gate of
MadrasaMadrasa
Ecce
El-Omariyya
HA-KIMRONIM HA-KIMRONIM Homo GHAWANIMA GHAWANIMA Gate of Gate of the Tribes the Tribes
Homo
Arch
Arch
S O U K K H A N E L - Z E I T
S O U K K H A N E L - Z E I T
CHRISTIANCHRISTIAN Darkness Darkness
QUARTERQUARTER El-Ghawanima
El-Ghawanima
St Salvador CHRISTIANCHRISTIAN p104 p104 BARQUQ BARQUQ Gate Gate
St Salvador
QUARTERQUARTER VIA DOLOROSA Ribat Ribat
VIA DOLOROSA
Terra Santa
Terra Santa el-Basir el-Basir Inspector’s Inspector’s
Monastery Monastery E L - K H A N Q A ALA ED-DIN ALA ED-DIN Gate Gate
E L - K H A N Q A
Gol
S T F R A N C I S E L - T A K I Y A E L - T A K I Y A Golden Gateden Gate
S T F R A N C I S
(closed) (closed)
E L - T A K I Y A E L - T A K I Y A Ribat Ribat
Church of Church of Lady Lady E L - W A D el-Mansuri el-Mansuri
Casa Nova Casa Nova the Holythe Holy
Monastery Monastery Sepulchre Sepulchre Tunshuq’s Tunshuq’s Iron Iron Temple Temple
E L - W A D
Palace
Palace
Dome of the
BAB EL-HADID
CASA NO VA
CASA NO VA
Ascension Ascension
Saraya BuildingSaraya Building BAB EL-HADID Gate Gate Dome of the Mount Mount
Alexander Alexander E L-SA R AYA E L-SA R AYA MadrasaMadrasa
Hospice Hospice E L-SA R AYA E L-SA R AYA el-Araghonia Cotton Cotton
el-Araghonia
Merchants’
Dome of Dome of
SOUK EL-DABBAGHA
the Rockthe Rock
Casa Nova Casa Nova SOUK EL-DABBAGHA El-Qirami’sEl-Qirami’s Merchants’ Dome of Dome of
Gate
Gate
Hospice Hospice Tomb Tomb Cotton Cotton the Chain the Chain
Merchants’
Merchants’
EL-KHALIDIYA
EL-KHALIDIYA E L - W A D E L - W A D Market Market Sabil of Sabil of
Hammam el-Ain Qaitbey Qaitbey
Hammam el-Ain
OLD CITY Chain Gate Chain Gate
OLD CITY
( TA RIQ BA B E L-SI L SI L A)
SOU K EL-AT TA R I N
S O U K E L-AT TA R IN
Chain Chain ( TA RIQ BA B E L-SI L SI L A)
M U R I S T A N R O A D
M U R I S T A N R O A D
C H R I S T I A N Q U A R T E R R O A D
SOUK EL-KHAWAJAT
C H R I S T I A N Q U A R T E R R O A D
SOUK EL-KHAWAJAT
SOUK EL-LAKHAMIN
SOUK EL-LAKHAMIN
The
The
Central Souktral Souk Street Street Western Western El-Kas El-Kas
Cen
FountainFountain
C H A I N S T R E E T
D AV I D S T R E E T ( E L- B A Z A R ) ( E L- B A Z A R ) C H A I N S T R E E T Wall Wall
D AV I D S T R E E T
MUSLIM MUSLIM
QUARTERQUARTER S T M A R K S T M A R K Moors’ Gate
Moors’ Gate
JEWISHJEWISH
QUARTERQUARTER D E R E K H H A - O F E L D E R E K H H A - O F E L
Mission Mission AR AR AT
PLU G A T H A - K OTE L M I S G A V L A - D A K H JEWISH Mosque Mosque
PLU G A T H A - K OTE L
Hospital Hospital p86 p86 El-Aqsa El-Aqsa
AR AR AT
JEWISH
Museum of
ARMENIAN QUARTER Museum of
ARMENIAN
QUARTER
Islamic Art Islamic Art
QUARTER
QUARTER K H A B A D K H A B A D
M I S G A V L A - D A K H
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EW Map template v1 – 24th April 2018
Fonts: Posterama Text, Soho Pro
0 metres 0 metres 100 N 100 N
S U L T A N S U L E Y M A N
0 yards 0 yards 100 100 S U L T A N S U L E Y M A N
JERUSALEMJERUSALEM Storks’ Storks’
CITY CENTRECITY CENTRE Tower Tower
p138 p138
S U
S U L E Y M A N L E Y M A N Old City Old City
Walls Walls
S U LT A N S U LT A N EL-MU'AZMIYA
EL-MU'AZMIYA
Herod’s Herod’s
E L - M U ' A Z M I Y A
Gate Gate E L - M U ' A Z M I Y A
Old City Old City Indian Indian
Hospice Hospice
Walls Walls Q A D I S I E H Q A D I S I E H A L - U M A R I A L - U M A R I
S E ' A D Y A S E ' A D Y A
E L - B U S T A M I
Damascus Damascus I BN J AR A H I BN J AR A H E L - B U S T A M I R U M M A N R U M M A N S A L A H I Y A S A L A H I Y A B U R J L A Q L A Q
Gate Gate E L - M A T H A N A E L - H A M R A E L - M A T H A N A E L - H A M R A St Anne’s St Anne’s YusefiyaYusefiya
E L - M A W L A W I Y A
E L - M A W L A W I Y A Church Church CemeteryCemetery
R I S A S R I S A S MUSLIMMUSLIM S H E I K H H A S A N Bethesda Bethesda
Pool of Pool of
B U R J L A Q L A Q
S H E I K H H A S A N
QUARTERQUARTER S H A D A D S H A D A D A A St Anne’s St Anne’s
Monastery Monastery
N
N
Sheikh Sheikh T O T O MOUNTMOUNT
Reihan Reihan Q A D I S I E H Q A D I S I E H N I N I Lions’ Gate Lions’ Gate OF OLIVESOF OLIVES
S H E I K H R E I H A N
S H E I K H R E I H A N
Mon
Monastery ofastery of A A AND CITY AND CITY
the Flagellationgellation EL-GHAZALIEL-GHAZALI
the Fla
E L - W A D
E L - W A D
El-Aqsa El-Aqsa SQUARE SQUARE OF DAVIDOF DAVID
SHAAR HA-ARAYOT
Convent of the
Convent of the E L - R A H B A T E L - R A H B A T SHAAR HA-ARAYOT School School p128 p128
EL-TUTA EL-TUTA Sisters of Zion
H A - R A M A K H I M
H A - R A M A K H I M
Sisters of Zion
VIA DOLOROSA VIA DOLOROSA Ecce El-Omariyya K I N G F A I S A L K I N G F A I S A L Gate of Gate of
MadrasaMadrasa
Ecce
El-Omariyya
HA-KIMRONIM HA-KIMRONIM Homo GHAWANIMA GHAWANIMA Gate of Gate of the Tribes the Tribes
Homo
Arch
Arch
S O U K K H A N E L - Z E I T
S O U K K H A N E L - Z E I T
CHRISTIANCHRISTIAN Darkness Darkness
QUARTERQUARTER El-Ghawanima
El-Ghawanima
St Salvador CHRISTIANCHRISTIAN p104 p104 BARQUQ BARQUQ Gate Gate
St Salvador
QUARTERQUARTER VIA DOLOROSA Ribat Ribat
VIA DOLOROSA
Terra Santa
Terra Santa el-Basir el-Basir Inspector’s Inspector’s
Monastery Monastery E L - K H A N Q A ALA ED-DIN ALA ED-DIN Gate Gate
E L - K H A N Q A
Gol
(closed) (closed)
S T F R A N C I S
S T F R A N C I S E L - T A K I Y A E L - T A K I Y A Golden Gateden Gate
E L - T A K I Y A E L - T A K I Y A Ribat Ribat
Church of Church of Lady Lady E L - W A D el-Mansuri el-Mansuri
Casa Nova Casa Nova the Holythe Holy
Monastery Monastery Sepulchre Sepulchre Tunshuq’s Tunshuq’s Iron Iron Temple Temple
E L - W A D
Palace
Palace
Dome of the
BAB EL-HADID
Ascension Ascension
CASA NO VA
CASA NO VA
Saraya BuildingSaraya Building BAB EL-HADID Gate Gate Dome of the Mount Mount
Alexander Alexander E L-SA R AYA E L-SA R AYA MadrasaMadrasa
Hospice Hospice E L-SA R AYA E L-SA R AYA el-Araghonia Cotton Cotton
el-Araghonia
Dome of Dome of
Merchants’
Dome of Dome of
SOUK EL-DABBAGHA
Casa Nova Casa Nova SOUK EL-DABBAGHA El-Qirami’sEl-Qirami’s Merchants’ the Rockthe Rock
Gate
Gate
Hospice Hospice Tomb Tomb Cotton Cotton the Chain the Chain
Merchants’
Merchants’
EL-KHALIDIYA EL-KHALIDIYA E L - W A D E L - W A D Market Market Sabil of Sabil of
Hammam el-Ain
Hammam el-Ain Qaitbey Qaitbey
OLD CITY
OLD CITY Chain Gate Chain Gate
( TA RIQ BA B E L-SI L SI L A)
S O U K E L-AT TA R I N
S O U K E L-AT TA R I N
Chain Chain ( TA RIQ BA B E L-SI L SI L A)
M U R I S T A N R O A D
M U R I S T A N R O A D
C H R I S T I A N Q U A R T E R R O A D
C H R I S T I A N Q U A R T E R R O A D
SOUK EL-KHAWAJAT
SOUK EL-KHAWAJAT
Street Street
SOUK EL-LAKHAMIN
SOUK EL-LAKHAMIN
The
The
Cen
Central Souktral Souk Western Western El-Kas El-Kas
FountainFountain
C H A I N S T R E E T
D AV I D S T R E E T ( E L- B A Z A R ) ( E L- B A Z A R ) C H A I N S T R E E T Wall Wall
D AV I D S T R E E T
MUSLIM MUSLIM
QUARTERQUARTER S T M A R K S T M A R K Moors’ Gate
Moors’ Gate
JEWISHJEWISH
QUARTERQUARTER D E R E K H H A - O F E L D E R E K H H A - O F E L
Mission Mission AR AR AT
PLU G A T H A - K OTE L M I S G A V L A - D A K H JEWISH Mosque Mosque
PLU G A T H A - K OTE L
Hospital Hospital p86 p86 El-Aqsa El-Aqsa
AR AR AT
JEWISH
Museum of
ARMENIAN QUARTER Museum of
ARMENIAN
QUARTER
Islamic Art Islamic Art
QUARTER K H A B A D K H A B A D
QUARTER
M I S G A V L A - D A K H
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1
TEMPLE MOUNT
4 E3 ⌂ Entrance for non-Muslims via Moors’ Gate only # Summer:
7:30–11am & 1:30–2:30pm Sun–Thu; winter: 7:30–10am & 12:30–1:30pm
Sun–Thu ¢ Fri, Sat, Muslim hols
EXPERIENCE Muslim Quarter City has been the focal point of Jerusalem for over 3,000 years. Site
Known to Muslims as Al-Haram ash-Sharif (the Noble Sanctuary),
this vast rectangular esplanade in the southeastern part of the Old
of the ancient Jewish temples, the modern-day Mount is graced by
the glittering Dome of the Rock and other Islamic structures.
The First and Second Temples
PICTURE PERFECT
Temple Mount
is where Abraham offered his son as a sacrifice to God. The site
Panorama
is traditionally believed to be the location of the Jews’ First
For a superb panorama According to both Jewish and Muslim traditions, Temple Mount
Temple, built by Solomon in the 10th century BC and destroyed
of Temple Mount and by the Babylonians in 587 BC. It was also the location of the
the Old City, climb up Second Temple that later replaced it. The complex was greatly
to the summit of the expanded in the 1st century BC by Herod the Great, who nearly
Mount of Olives (p128) doubled the size of the Inner Temple and created the Temple
and gaze westward. platform by building four walls around a natural hill and filling
Arrive early in the them in. It is from the Second Temple that Jesus is said to have
morning for the best expelled the merchants and moneychangers. The Temple was
light on the golden destroyed by the Romans after a bitter five-month siege of
Dome of the Rock.
Jerusalem in AD 70, the culmination of hostilities that began
four years earlier with the Jewish Revolt.
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The main entrance of
El-Aqsa Mosque, which
dates to the 11th century
Worshippers relaxing
in the shade of the
complex’s courtyard
Islamic Shrine
Did You Know? Left in ruins for more than half a millennium, the site became
an Islamic shrine in AD 691 with the building of the Dome of
the Rock. Construction of the El-Aqsa mosque was begun soon
The Jewish holiday of
Chanukah celebrates after, but in the first 60 years of its existence the mosque was
the reconsecration twice razed to the ground by earthquakes. When the Crusaders
of the Second Temple captured Jerusalem in 1099, El-Aqsa became the headquarters
of the Templars. Over the centuries other buildings have been
in 164 BC.
added to the complex, which is the third most important
Islamic religious sanctuary after Mecca and Medina.
JERUSALEM
AND ISLAM
The Dome of the Rock
and El-Aqsa mosque
represent the first
great religious complex
in the history of Islam.
Although Muslims
venerate many of the
same prophets as the
Jews and Christians, in
particular Abraham,
Jerusalem itself is never
actually mentioned in
the Quran. The choice
of this site was more
likely a political issue.
In constructing his
mosque on the site of
the Temple, the caliph
Abd el-Malik intended
to reinforce the idea
that the new religion
of Islam, and its worldly
empire, was both the
successor and continu-
ation of the Jewish and
Temple Mount, with Christian religions.
the Western Wall
in the foreground
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Exploring Temple Mount
Although the undoubted main attraction is
the Dome of the Rock, the Temple Mount has
a great many other features that are worthy
of attention. The esplanade acts as a virtual
museum of Islamic architecture, beginning
with the Dome, which dates back to the
Omayyad era and is the earliest structure,
EXPERIENCE Muslim Quarter and Ottoman periods. Visitors should be aware The walls of Temple Mount, with the
and running through the Ayyubid (Grammar
College), Mameluke (numerous madrasas)
that certain parts of the Haram ash-Sharif are
out of bounds, notably the area south of the
Gate of the Tribes and east of El-Aqsa. Non-
Muslims may only access the Temple Mount
via Moors’ Gate and cannot enter the Dome
of the Rock and the El-Aqsa Mosque.
grey dome of El-Aqsa Mosque behind
The Grammar College
still serves as a Quranic
teaching school.
Qanatir
Madrasa el-Omariyya Asbat Minaret
is one of several
Mameluke-era schools.
Madrasa Dome of Dome of
el-Isardiyya the Rock the Chain
El-Aqsa Mosque
Moors’ Gate (Bab The Museum of
Chain Gate el-Maghariba) Islamic Art’s collection
(Ha-Shalshelet) Western Wall includes Qurans,
(p90) textiles and ceramics.
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Must See
THE TEMPLE MOUNT El-Aqsa Mosque
IN JEWISH HISTORY Highlights ▶ El-Aqsa’s present form
Jews the world over face Jerusalem’s dates from the early 11th
Temple Mount when they pray, as it century. The interior is
is the holiest site in Judaism. A few dominated by mid-
synagogues are even decorated with 20th-century
images of the Dome of the Rock (inclu– additions, notably
ding examples in Safed) because the ranks of marble
7th-century Muslim shrine is believed columns donated
to stand on the site of the First and the by Benito
Second Temples. After the Romans Mussolini, and
destroyed the Second Temple in AD 70, an elaborately
the practice of animal sacrifices ceased painted ceiling
and Jewish Sages based in the Galilee paid for by King
reoriented Judaism towards prayer Farouk of Egypt. Older
and a written legal code (p56). Today, elements include the
Jewish religious law prohibits Jews mihrab, decorated in 1187
from visiting Temple Mount and Israeli under the patronage of Saladin.
secular law forbids non-Muslims from
praying here.
Museum of Islamic Art
Housed in the Crusader-era refectory of the
Knights Templar, this museum contains
objects donated to the Haram ash-Sharif
over the centuries, as well as
Golden Gate is one of the architectural remnants from
original city gates but was the site. It is currently closed
sealed up by the Muslims to the public.
in the 16th century. The
area is out of bounds.
The Qanatirs
◀ Eight short flights of steps
lead up to the platform on
which the Dome of the Rock sits,
each of which date from different
periods. The flights are all crowned
by a slender arcade known as a qanatir.
Dome of the Chain
The most impressive of the Haram’s smaller domes
is the Dome of the Chain. Its name derives from
the legend that a chain once hung from the roof,
and who ever told a lie while holding it would be
struck dead by lightning.
The Madrasas
Most of the buildings fringing the Haram
are madrasas – Islamic colleges. Of these,
the Ashrafiyya, built in 1482, is
a masterpiece of Islamic
Did You Know? architecture, while
the Uthmaniyya has
beautiful decorations.
The Temple Mount
complex covers some Golden
150,000 sq m
(1,614,590 sq ft). Gate
▶ This was one of the
original Herodian city
gates. According to
The vast courtyard of Jewish tradition, the
the Temple Mount, or Messiah will enter
Al-Haram ash-Sharif Jerusalem through this gate.
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Dome of the Rock
One of the first and greatest achievements TILE DECORATION
of Islamic architecture, the Dome of the In the mid-1500s, Ottoman Sultan
Rock was built in AD 688–91 by the Omayyad Suleyman the Magnificent decided to
caliph Abd el-Malik. Intended to proclaim the spruce up the Dome of the Rock, whose
superiority of Islam and provide an Islamic glass mosaics were showing their age
focal point in the Holy City, the majestic after six centuries of exposure to the
structure now dominates Jerusalem and elements. He hired ceramic artisans in
Iznik, Turkey, to create 45,000 ceramic
EXPERIENCE Muslim Quarter harmonious building echoes elements of century tiles have been replaced, but
has become a symbol of the city. More a
tiles that were laboriously shipped to
shrine than a mosque, the mathematically
Jerusalem. Most of the original 16th-
Classical and Byzantine architecture, including
a few still adorn parts of the structure
the rotunda of the Holy Sepulchre (p108).
protected from the weather.
The dome was originally made of copper but
is now covered with gold leaf thanks to the
financial support of the late King Hussein
of Jordan. Inside, the dazzling cuppola is
decorated with elaborate floral motifs.
The text on the interior of the
dome commemorates Saladin,
who sponsored restoration
work on the building.
The exquisitely
decorated Dome
of the Rock
The drum is decorated
with tiles and verses
from the Quran which Green and gold mosaics
create a scintillating
tell of Muhammad’s effect on the walls
Night Journey.
below the dome.
Outer ambulatory
Quranic
verses Stained-
glass window
Marble panel
The octagonal arcade is Each outer wall is
adorned with an inscrip- The Rock is believed to 20.4 m (67 ft) long.
tion inviting Christians to be where Abraham was This exactly matches
recognize the truth of Islam. asked to sacrifice Isaac. the dome’s diameter.
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Must See
Did You Know?
It took 80 kg (176 lb) of
24-carat gold to re-gild
the Dome of the Rock
in 1993.
Dome of the Rock, glimpsed
through the pillars of the
surrounding buildings
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VIA DOLOROSA
The Via Dolorosa in Jerusalem traditionally traces the ORIGINAL ROUTE
last steps of Jesus Christ, from where he was tried to The more probable
Calvary, where he was crucified, and the tomb in the route for the original Via
Church of the Holy Sepulchre, where he is said to have Dolorosa begins at the
been buried. There is no historical basis for the route, Citadel, the Jerusalem
residence of Pontius
which has changed over the centuries. However, the
EXPERIENCE Muslim Quarter the route, identifying with Jesus’s suffering as they Christ. The condemned
Pilate and thus a likely
tradition is so strong that countless pilgrims walk
location for the trial of
stop at the 14 Stations of the Cross. On Fridays, the
would prob ably have
been led out of the city via
Franciscans lead a procession along the route. The
what is now David Street
walk is not done the week after Easter or Christmas.
and the Central Souk.
Seventh Station Jesus
falls for the second time.
A large Roman column
in a Franciscan chapel
indicates this station.
Sixth Station A woman
known as Veronica wipes
The Church of the Holy Sepulchre lit by away Jesus’s blood and
“holy fire” during Easter ceremonies sweat, and her hand
kerchief reveals an
impression of his face.
Tenth to Thirteenth Stations
These four stations are all in the
place identified as Golgotha
(Calvary) within the Church of
the Holy Sepulchre (p108).
Fourteenth Station
The last Station of Eighth Station
the Cross is the Holy Jesus consoles the
Sepulchre itself. women of Jerusalem.
Ninth Station
Jesus falls for the
third time. The place
is marked by part
of the shaft of a
Roman column.
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The marble relief above
the door to the chapel
at the Third Station
Second Station Jesus
takes up the cross after being
flogged and crowned with
thorns. This station is in front
of the Franciscan Monastery of
the Flagellation (p78).
First Station Jesus is
condemned to death.
Third Station Jesus falls The traditional site of the
beneath the weight of the Roman fortress where
cross for the first time. This is this took place lies inside
commemorated by a small a Muslim college, the
chapel with a marble relief. Madrasa el-Omariyya.
Fourth Station Jesus meets
his mother Mary. This is in
front of the Armenian Church
of Our Lady of the Spasm.
Fifth Station Simon of
Cyrene is ordered by the
Roman soldiers to help Jesus
carry the cross (Mark 15: 21).
This is the start of the ascent
to Calvary.
A procession of pilgrims
tracing the footsteps of
Jesus along the route
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EXPERIENCE MORE
2 The neighbouring monastery
buildings house the Studium
Monastery of the Biblicum Franciscanum,
Flagellation a prestigious institute of EAT
biblical, geographical and
EXPERIENCE Muslim Quarter # Monastery: 7:30am– Studium Museum contains serves what some say is
R1 ⌂ Via Dolorosa
archaeo logical studies. Also
§ (02) 627 0444
part of the complex, the
Abu Shukri
5pm daily; Studium
This tiny, family-run
objects found by the
Museum: 9am–1pm &
place, opposite the 5th
Franciscans in excavations
4–6pm Tue–Sat (by appt)
Station of the Cross,
at Capernaum, Nazareth,
Bethlehem and various other
Owned by the Franciscans,
Jerusalem’s finest
this complex embraces the
sites. The most interesting
hummus, with tahini
simple and striking Chapel
and fuul (fava beans),
of the Flagellation, designed
Crusader objects, such as
fragments of frescoes from
in the 1920s by the Italian
R2 ⌂ 63 Al-Wad St
the Church of Gethsemane,
architect Antonio Barluzzi, exhibits are Byzantine and chickpeas or pine nuts.
§ (02) 628 9303
who was also responsible precursor of the present-day
for the Dominus Flevit Church of All Nations (p134), ÒÒÒ
Chapel on the Mount of Olives and a 12th-century crozier
(p135). It is located on the site from the Church of the Ja’far Sweets
traditionally believed to be Nativity in Bethlehem (p232). Renowned for luscious
where Christ was flogged kunafeh: gooey hot
by Roman soldiers prior to cheese and shredded
his crucifixion (Matthew 27: phyllo (filo) soaked in
27–30; Mark 15: 16–19). 3 "' rose-water syrup, with
On the other side of the Ecce Homo Arch grated pistachios. Very
courtyard is the Chapel of R1 ⌂ Via Dolorosa near Damascus Gate.
the Condemnation, which Q1 ⌂ Khan el-Zeit St
also dates from the early This arch that spans the Via § (02) 628 3582
20th century. It is built over Dolorosa was built by the ÒÒÒ
the remains of a medieval Romans in AD 70 to support a
chapel, on the site popularly ramp being laid against the
identified as where Christ was Antonia Fortress, in which
tried before Pontius Pilate. Jewish rebels were barricaded.
The shaded cloisters of the
Franciscan Monastery of the
Flagellation on the Via Dolorosa
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Ecce Homo Arch,
spanning the
Via Dolorosa
Jerusalem some time in the
14th century and had this
edifice built for herself. It is
one of the loveliest examples
of Mameluke architecture in
Jerusalem. Unfortunately,
the narrow street does not
allow for standing back and
appreciating the building as
a whole, but you can admire
the three great doorways
with their beautiful inlaid
marble decoration. The upper
portion of a window recess
also displays some fine
stalactitelike decoration,
a form known as muqarnas.
The former palace now serves
as an orphanage and is not
uttered the words “Ecce open to the public.
homo” (“Behold the man”). When Lady Tunshuq died,
Did You Know? However, archaeology refutes she was buried in a small
tomb across from the palace.
this, dating the pavement
to the 2nd century AD, long The fine decoration on the
Religious processions
along the Via Dolorosa after the time of Christ. tomb includes panels of
(p76) take place every Within a railed section different coloured marble,
Friday at 3pm. you can see marks scratched intricately shaped and slotted
into the stone. Historians together like a jigsaw – this is
speculate that they may have a typical Mameluke feature
been carved by Roman guards known as “joggling”.
as a kind of street game. If you head east and across
When the Romans rebuilt ElWad Road, you will enter
Jerusalem in AD 135 in the Convent of the a narrow alley called Ala ed
wake of the Second Jewish Sisters of Zion Din, which contains more fine
War (p49), the arch was recon §(02) 627 7292 Mameluke architecture. Most
structed as a monument to # 8am–5pm daily of the façades are composed
victory, with two smaller arches of bands of different hues of
flanking a large central bay. It stone, a strikingly beautiful
is the central bay that you see 4 Mameluke decorative tech
spanning the street. nique known as ablaq.
One of the side arches is Lady Tunshuq’s
also still visible, incorporated Palace
into the interior of the neigh R2 ⌂ El-Takiya St
bouring Convent of the Sisters
of Zion. Built in the 1860s, Lady Tunshuq, of
the convent also contains Mongolian or Turkish
the remains of the vast Pool origin, was the
of the Sparrow (Struthion), wife, or mistress,
an ancient reservoir which of a Kurdish
collected rainwater directed nobleman.
from the rooftops. The pool She arrived in
was originally covered with a
stone pavement (lithostrothon)
and it was on this flagstone
plaza, according to Christian Islamic detail,
tradition, that Pilate presen exterior of Lady
ted Christ to the crowds and Tunshuq’s Palace
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EXPERIENCE Muslim Quarter
Assorted stalls
in the Cotton
Merchants’ Market
5 undergoing restoration with Chain Street has several
noteworthy buildings that
a view to eventually opening
Cotton Merchants’ them to the public. Between were commissioned by
Market the two bath houses is a for- Mameluke rulers in the 14th
mer merchants’ hostel called century. Heading eastwards
R3 ⌂ Off El-Wad Rd
Khan Tankiz, which has now from David Street, the first
Known in Arabic as the Souk been restored. that you come to is the Khan
el-Qattanin, this is a covered Less than 50 m (160 ft) el-Sultan caravanserai, a
market with next to no natural south of the Cotton Merchants’ restored travellers’ inn.
light but lots of small softly lit Market on El-Wad Road is a Further along on the right
shops. It is possibly the most small public drinking fountain, is Tashtamuriyya Madrasa,
atmospheric street in all the or sabil, one of several erected which features an elegant
Old City. Its construction was during the reign of Suleyman balcony. It houses the tomb of
begun by the Crusaders, who the Magnificent. the emir Tashtamur and is one
intended the market to be a of a number of final resting
free-standing structure, but places that were built here in
later, in the first half of the 6 the 14th and 15th centuries in
14th century, the Mamelukes order to be close to the Haram
connected it to the Haram Chain Street esh-Sharif. On the same side
ash-Sharif (p70) via the splen- R3 of the street is the tomb of
didly ornate Cotton Merchants’ the brutal Tartar emir Barka
Gate facing the Dome of the The Arabic name for this Khan, father-in-law of the
Rock. (Note, non-Muslims are street is Tariq Bab el-Silsila, Mameluke ruler Baybars, who
not permitted to enter the which means “Street of the drove the Crusaders out of
Haram ash-Sharif by this gate, Gate of the Chain”. The name the Holy Land. This building,
although they are allowed refers to the magnificent with its intri guing façade
to depart by this route.) entrance gate to the Haram decoration, now houses
As well as some 50 shop esh-Sharif situated at its the Khalidi Library, which
units with living quarters eastern end. The street was established in 1899.
above, the market also has is a continuation of David
two ornate bathhouses: the Street, and together the two
Hammam el-Ain, constructed streets run the width of the
during the 14th century by the Old City from Jaffa Gate to Brightly coloured items on
Mamelukes, and the Hammam the Haram ash-Sharif and display in Jerusalem’s
el-Shifa. Both of these are Dome of the Rock. historic Central Souk
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INSIDER TIP
Bargaining in
the Old City
In souks, even after tea
and pleasantries, offer
half the asking price
and ignore the feigned
indignation! Look ready
to walk away, and the
price will plummet.
Opposite the Khalidi Library
are two small mausoleums.
Of the two, that of emir Kilan
stands out for its austere,
well-proportioned façade. Suleyman the Magnificent and The Chain Gate, which
Further along the street is combines decorative Roman leads from Chain Street
the tomb of Tartar pilgrim and Crusader motifs. to Temple Mount
Turkan Khatun, recognizable
by the splendid arabesques
on its façade. Opposite the 7 mostly clothes and souvenirs,
Gate of the Chain is the although the section called
impressive entrance to the Central Souk the Butchers’ Market (Souk
14th-century Tankiziyya Q3 ⌂ David St/Chain St el-Lakhamin in Arabic), which
Madrasa. In the inscription, # 8am–7pm Sat–Thu was restored in the 1970s,
three symbols in the shape of still offers all the colour
a cup show that emir Tankiz, The Central Souk consists and excitement of a typical
who built the college, held of three parallel covered eastern bazaar. Be warned,
the important office of streets at the junction of however, that this place is not
cupbearer. Nearby, not far David Street and Chain for the faint-hearted, since
from the Cotton Merchants’ Street. They once formed the pungent aromas of spices
Market, is a drinking fountain part of the Roman Cardo and freshly slaughtered meat
that dates from the reign of (p96). Today’s markets sell can be overwhelming.
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gate, which provides access
8 " to the fascinating Roman
Damascus Gate Square Excavations. The
remains of the original Roman DRINK
Q1 @ 1, 2
plaza, the starting point of
Spotting this gate is easy, the Roman Cardo, include a
not only because it is the gaming board engraved in Viennese Café
Sip gourmet coffee, beer
most monumental in the Old the paving stones. A hologram or wine with an Austrian
depicts Hadrian’s column in
City, but also because of the
EXPERIENCE Muslim Quarter the Gate of the Column. This of the gate as part of the Hospice, 37 Via Dolorosa
treat like apple strudel.
perpetual bustle around it.
the main plaza. It is possible
to explore the upper levels
Arabs call it Bab el-Amud,
R3 ⌂ Austrian
# 10am–10pm daily
ramparts walk (p102).
could refer to a large column
∑ austrianhospice.com
topped with a statue of the
Roman Square
emperor Hadrian which, in
ÒÒÒ
Excavations
Roman times, stood just
inside the gate. For Jews it is
# 9am–5pm (to 4pm winter)
Shaar Shkhem, the gate that
leads to the biblical city of
Shechem, better known by
its Arabic name – Nablus. Sat–Thu son. It was via the original, now
closed, entrance further east
9
The present-day gate was that the Crusaders entered
built over the remains of the Herod’s Gate the city and conquered it on
original Roman gate and parts R1 15 July 1099.
of the Roman city. Outside the
gate, steps lead down to the The Arabic and Hebrew
excavation area. In the first names for this gate, Bab el-
section are remains of a Zahra and Shaar ha-Prakhim 0 "
Crusader chapel with frescoes, respectively, both mean “Gate St Anne’s Church
part of a medieval roadway of Flowers”, referring to the S1 ⌂ 2 Shaar ha-
and an ancient sign marking rosette above the arch. It Arayot St § (02) 628 3285
the presence of the Roman came to be known as Herod’s # 8am–noon & 2–6pm daily
10th Legion. Further in is Gate in the 1500s, when (to 5pm winter)
surviving arch of the Roman Christian pilgrims wrongly
thought that the house inside This beautiful Crusader
the gate was the palace church is a superb example
of Herod the Great’s of Romanesque architecture.
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Prayers at the “Virgin
Mary’s Birthplace”, in
St Anne’s Church
It was constructed between
1131 and 1138 to replace a
previous Byzantine church,
and exists today in more or
less its original form. It is
traditionally believed that
the church stands on the spot
where Anne and Joachim, the
parents of the Virgin Mary,
lived. The supposed remains
of their house are in the crypt,
which is also noted for its
remarkable acoustics.
Shortly after the church was
built, it was made larger by Next to the church are two school of thought insists
moving the façade forwards cisterns that once lay outside that they are panthers. There
by several metres. The connec- the city walls. They were built are many different stories to
tion with the original church in the 8th and 3rd centuries BC explain the significance of the
can still be seen in the first to collect rainwater. Some time lions. One is that Suleyman
row of columns. In 1192, later, under Herod the Great, the Magnificent had them
Saladin turned the church into they were turned into curative carved in honour of the
a Muslim theological school; baths. Ruins of a Roman Mameluke emir Baybars and
there is an inscription to this temple, thought to have been his successful campaign to rid
effect above the entrance. to the god of medicine, can be the Holy Land of Crusaders.
Later abandoned, the seen here, as can those of a Also known as St Stephen’s
church fell into ruins, until the later Byzantine church built Gate, this name was adopted
Ottomans donated it to France over the temple. This is also in the Middle Ages by
in 1856 and it was restored. widely believed to be the Christians who believed
site of the Pool of Bethesda, that the first Christian martyr,
described in St John’s account St Stephen, was executed
of Christ curing a paralysed here. Prior to that, it was
man (John 5: 1–15). thought that St Stephen
had been stoned to death
outside Damascus Gate.
q The gate is also significant
because of its more recent
Lions’ Gate history, as the entrance
through which the Arab
T1
Legion penetrated the Old
Suleyman the Magnificent City in 1948 (p53) and where
built this gate in 1538. Its Israeli paratroopers entered
Arabic name, Bab Sitti in 1967 (p54). Today it makes
Maryam (Gate of the Virgin an excellent starting point
Mary), refers to the Tomb of for the walk along the Via
the Virgin in the nearby Valley Dolorosa (p76).
of Jehoshaphat (p136). The
Hebrew name, Shaar ha-
Arayot, or Lions’ Gate, refers
to the two emblematic lions Did You Know?
situated on either side of
the gateway, although one The Muslim Quarter is
home to about 27,000
people, almost three-
quarters of the Old
Historic Damascus Gate, City’s population.
in the wall surrounding
Jerusalem’s Old City
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A SHORT WALK
THE MUSLIM
QUARTER The Austrian
EXPERIENCE Muslim Quarter Sultan Suleyman Street Time 15 minutes Hospice was built
Distance 500 m (1,650 ft) Nearest bus stop
in 1869 to accommodate
Christian pilgrims.
The main routes through this busy quarter are along
the Via Dolorosa and up and down El-Wad. Both
streets are lined with a gaudy array of shops, whose
salesmen eagerly press on visitors all manner of
ornaments and kitsch, from plastic crucifixes to
glass-bowled water pipes. Few people stray from
the main thoroughfares, but those who do are
richly rewarded. The quiet, winding back alleys
contain a wealth of fine medieval Islamic
architecture, much of it dating from the
Mameluke era (1250–1516). Not all of it V I A D O LO R O S A
is in good condition, but many of these
buildings still perform the functions
for which they were intended.
Crossing the quarter from east to
west, the Via Dolorosa (p76)
is revered by Christian pilgrims
as the route taken by Christ as E L-WA D
he was led to his crucifixion.
B A R Q U A
Abu Shukri
restaurant (p78)
A narrow, stepped street at the
heart of the quarter, El-Takiya
contains some of the city’s finest
Mameluke architecture.
E L-TA K I YA
Lady Tunshuq’s Palace (p79)
is typical of the Mameluke
decorative style, with bands
of different coloured stone and
panels of intricate marble inlay. E L-WA D
Fresh bread rolls
for sale at a stall
along El-Takiya
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MUSLIM
QUARTER
The Ecce Homo Arch (p78), which
The Convent of spans the Via Dolorosa, is the
the Sisters of Zion, main section of a Roman triple
which runs a pilgrims’ arch. One of the smaller, flanking
hospice, dates from the arches is incorporated into
19th-century Christian the structure of the Convent Locator Map
building boom. of the Sisters of Zion. For more detail see p68
Built on the site traditionally
associated with the flogging
of Christ, the Monastery of
START the Flagellation (p78) complex
includes two attractive chapels
and the Studium Museum.
V I A D O LO R O S A
B A R Q U A
A L L A H - E - D I N
Bab el-Hadid street, with
typical Mameluke-style
architectural features
Though badly neglected,
Bab el-Hadid street has a
number of madrasas from
the 14th and 15th centuries.
FINISH
B A B
E L- H A D I D Madrasa el-
Araghonia (1358)
E L-WA D
0 metres 50 N
0 yards 50
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Jews praying at the Western Wall on Jerusalem Day
JEWISH QUARTER
In Herodian times, this area abutted the Second
Temple enclosure and was occupied by the
priestly elite. In the late Roman period, Jews
were forbidden from living in Jerusalem, but under
the more tolerant Arab rule a small community
was re-established here. The district became
predominantly Jewish during Ottoman rule,
when it acquired its present name. By the 16th
century, pilgrimage to the Western Wall – the only
surviving remnant of the Temple – had become
a strong tradition. After the destruction wrought
in the 1948 War and the subsequent years
of Jordanian occupation, the Jewish Quarter
was liberated by Israeli troops in 1967, and
reconstruction work began soon afterwards.
A great many ruins from ancient periods were
uncovered below more recent buildings. These
remains were made accessible to the public,
so that the Jewish Quarter of today stands as
a fascinating, living mix of more than 3,000 years
of Jerusalem Jewry.
87
086-087_EW_Jerusalem.indd 87 23/11/2018 10:18
El-Ghawanima
BARQUQ BARQUQ El-Ghawanima
Gate
Gate
JEWISH QUARTER
Ribat Ribat
Inspector’s
Must Sees 10 Batei Makhase Square el-Basir el-Basir Inspector’s
Gate
Gate
1 Western Wall 11 The Sephardic Synagogues ALA ED-DIN ALA ED-DIN Golden Gate
Golden Gate
2 Jerusalem Archaeological Park 12 Old Yishuv Court Museum (closed) (closed)
13 Ariel Center for Jerusalem in
Ribat
Experience More the First Temple Period el-Mansuri Ribat
el-Mansuri
3 The Cardo 14 The Burnt House
4 The Broad Wall 15 St Mary of the Germans Iron Gate Iron Gate Temple Temple
5 Hurva Square 16 Dung Gate BAB EL-HADID Mount Mount
BAB EL-HADID
6 Hurva Synagogue E L - W A D E L - W A D
7 Ramban Synagogue Shop Cotton Cotton Dome of Dome of
Merchants’
Merchants’
8 Tiferet Yisrael Street 1 The Cardo Gate Gate the Rock the Rock
9 Wohl Archaeological Museum
MUSLIM
MUSLIM
QUARTER
QUARTER
(TARIQ BAB EL-SILSILA)
Church of Church of SOUK EL-ATTARIN SOUK EL-ATTARIN p66 p66 (TARIQ BAB EL-SILSILA) Chain Gate Chain Gate
St John St John Beit Beit D E R E K H H A - O F E L D E R E K H H A - O F E L
the Baptist
the Baptist Strauss Strauss El-Kas El-Kas
Fountain
Fountain
C H A I N ST R E E T Khalidi Khalidi
C H A I N ST R E E T
Library
Library
D A V I D S T R E E T ( E L - B A Z A R ) Western Western
D A V I D S T R E E T ( E L - B A Z A R )
KHABAD KHABAD Tashtamuri Wall Wall
Tashtamuriyyayya
Moors’ Gate
ST MARK ST MARK HA-KOTEL HA-KOTEL Building Building Moors’ Gate
PLUGAT
PLUGAT
CHRISTIAN
CHRISTIAN WESTERN WESTERN
WALL
WALL
QUARTER Ariel Center PL AZA PL AZA
QUARTER
Ariel Center
for Jerusalem in
p104 p104 for Jerusalem in El-Aqsa El-Aqsa
JEWISH
the First Temple
Christ Christ The The the First Temple JEWISH Mosque Mosque
PL UG AT H A - KO T EL
Period
Period
Church Church Cardo Cardo PL UG AT H A - KO T EL MISGAV LA-DAKH MISGAV LA-DAKH QUARTER Museum of
QUARTER
Museum of
The
The
Islamic Art
Broad Broad V Islamic Art
HA-UGAV
Wall HA-UGA The Burnt The Burnt HA-TAMID HA-TAMID
Wall
ARARAT ARARAT Hurva Hurva House House Walls Walls
J E W I S H Q U AR T E R R O A D ( H A - Y E H U D I M )
City
City
K H A B A D K H A B A D Synagogue Tiferet Yisrael the Germ the Germansans MAALOT RABIL MAALOT RABIL BATEI MAKHASE Davidson Davidson Jerusalem Jerusalem
Tiferet Yisrael
Synagogue
Street
Street
St Mary of f
St Mary o
Hurva
Hurva
Archaeological
Square
Park
Museum
Museum
KHAYEI OLAM
KHAYEI OLAM
OR HA-KHAYIM
OR HA-KHAYIM J E W I S H Q U AR T E R R O A D ( H A - Y E H U D I M ) Ramban Ramban Square Wohl Arch Wohl Archaeologicalaeological Center Center Archaeological Park
BATEI MAKHASE
D E R E K H H A - S H I L O A K H
ARMENIAN Old Yishu Old Yishuvv Synagogu Synagoguee BEIT EL BEIT EL HA-GITIT HA-GITIT Dung Dung D E R E K H H A - O F E L
D E R E K H H A - O F E L
HA- SHMINIT
ARMENIAN Court Museum
Court Museum
QUARTER
QUARTER ARARAT ARARAT HA-MALAKH HA-MALAKH The Seph The Sephardicardic GALED MAAMADOT YISRAEL MAAMADOT YISRAEL HA-SHOEVA HA- SHMINIT Gate Gate MOUNT OF OLIVES D E R E K H H A - S H I L O A K H
Batei
A R M E N I A N P A T R I A R C H A T E R O A D
A R M E N I A N P A T R I A R C H A T E R O A D QUARTER AND HA-MALAKH K H A B A D BARKAI K H A B A D BARKAI-TUPIM HA-TUPIM HA-KEHUNA Rothschild NAKHMAN MALKI TSEDEK MALKI TSEDEK AND CITY OF DAVID CITY OF
Batei
Makhase
Makhase
BEIT
BEIT
HA-SHOEVA
Synagogu
Synagogueses
Square
Square
MOUNT OF OLIVES
GALED
AND CITY OF DAVID
HA
p128
p128
Rothschild
QUARTER AND HA-MALAKH
NAKHMAN
BATEI MAKHASE
BATEI MAKHASE
House
House
ARMENIAN
ARMENIAN
CITY OF
Beit
Beit
MOUNT ZION
MOUNT ZION
MISHMEROT
MISHMEROT
HA-KEHUNA
ha-Sofer
ha-Sofer
DAVID
p120
p120
A R A R A T
A R A R A T
KIKAR
KIKAR
TIFERET TIFERET The Nea The Nea A - S H A L O M DAVID
YERUSHALA YERUSHALAYIMYIM Vaults Vaults H M A A L E H A - S H A L O M V I D V I D
City City M A A L E D A D A
Walls Walls R R
JEWISH
JEWISH
M A L K I T S E D E K T
Zion SHAAR TSIYON
Zion SHAAR TSIYON I I QUARTER QUARTER
Gate Gate M A L K I T S E D E K L O T L O T
A
H A T I V A T E T S Y O N I S T W A D I H I L W A S W A D I H I L W A S T M A A 0 metres 0 metres 100 N 100 N
H A T I V A T E T S Y O N I S T
A
M
0 yards 0 yards 100 100
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El-Ghawanima
BARQUQ BARQUQ El-Ghawanima
Gate
Gate
Ribat Ribat
el-Basir el-Basir Inspector’s
Inspector’s
Gate Gate
ALA ED-DIN ALA ED-DIN Golden Gate
Golden Gate
(closed) (closed)
Ribat Ribat
el-Mansuri
el-Mansuri
Iron Gate Iron Gate Temple Temple
BAB EL-HADID
BAB EL-HADID Mount Mount
Cotton Cotton
E L - W A D
E L - W A D
Merchants’
Merchants’ Dome of Dome of
Gate Gate the Rock the Rock
MUSLIM
MUSLIM
QUARTER
QUARTER
Chain Gate
(TARIQ BAB EL-SILSILA)
Church of Church of SOUK EL-ATTARIN SOUK EL-ATTARIN p66 p66 (TARIQ BAB EL-SILSILA) Chain Gate
St John St John Beit Beit D E R E K H H A - O F E L D E R E K H H A - O F E L
the Baptist Strauss Strauss El-Kas El-Kas
the Baptist
Fountain
Fountain
C H A I N ST R E E T Khalidi Khalidi
C H A I N ST R E E T
Library
Library
D A V I D S T R E E T ( E L - B A Z A R )
D A V I D S T R E E T ( E L - B A Z A R ) Western Western
KHABAD KHABAD Tashtamuri Wall Wall
Tashtamuriyyayya
Moors’ Gate
ST MARK ST MARK HA-KOTEL HA-KOTEL Building Building Moors’ Gate
PLUGAT
PLUGAT
CHRISTIAN WESTERN WESTERN
CHRISTIAN
WALL
WALL
QUARTER
QUARTER Ariel Center PL AZA PL AZA
Ariel Center
for Jerusalem in
p104 p104 for Jerusalem in El-Aqsa El-Aqsa
JEWISH
the First Temple
Christ Christ The The the First Temple JEWISH Mosque Mosque
PL UG AT H A - KO T EL
Period
Period
Church Church Cardo Cardo PL UG AT H A - KO T EL MISGAV LA-DAKH MISGAV LA-DAKH QUARTER Museum of
QUARTER
Museum of
The
The
Islamic Art
Broad Broad V Islamic Art
HA-UGAV
Wall
Wall HA-UGA The Burnt The Burnt HA-TAMID HA-TAMID
ARARAT ARARAT Hurva Hurva House House Walls Walls
J E W I S H Q U AR T E R R O A D ( H A - Y E H U D I M )
City
City
K H A B A D K H A B A D Synagogue Tiferet Yisrael the Germ the Germansans St Mary of f MAALOT RABIL MAALOT RABIL BATEI MAKHASE Davidson Davidson Jerusalem Jerusalem
Tiferet Yisrael
Synagogue
Street
Street
St Mary o
Hurva
Hurva
Archaeological
Square
Park
Museum
Museum
KHAYEI OLAM
OR HA-KHAYIM
KHAYEI OLAM
OR HA-KHAYIM J E W I S H Q U AR T E R R O A D ( H A - Y E H U D I M ) Ramban Ramban Square Wohl Arch Wohl Archaeologicalaeological Center Center Archaeological Park
BATEI MAKHASE
D E R E K H H A - S H I L O A K H
ARMENIAN Old Yishu Old Yishuvv Synagogu Synagoguee BEIT EL BEIT EL HA-GITIT HA-GITIT Dung Dung D E R E K H H A - O F E L
D E R E K H H A - O F E L
HA- SHMINIT
ARMENIAN Court Museum
Court Museum
QUARTER ARARAT ARARAT HA-MALAKH HA-MALAKH The Seph The Sephardicardic GALED MAAMADOT YISRAEL MAAMADOT YISRAEL HA-SHOEVA HA- SHMINIT Gate Gate MOUNT OF OLIVES D E R E K H H A - S H I L O A K H
QUARTER
A R M E N I A N P A T R I A R C H A T E R O A D QUARTER AND HA-MALAKH K H A B A D BARKAI K H A B A D BARKAI-TUPIM HA-TUPIM HA-KEHUNA Rothschild N NAKHMAN MALKI TSEDEK MALKI TSEDEK AND CITY OF DAVID CITY OF
A R M E N I A N P A T R I A R C H A T E R O A D
Batei
Batei
Makhase
Makhase
BEIT
BEIT
Square
Synagogueses
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Square
HA-SHOEVA
MOUNT OF OLIVES
GALED
AND CITY OF DAVID
HA
p128
p128
Rothschild
QUARTER AND HA-MALAKH
House HMA
BATEI MAKHASE
BATEI MAKHASE
House
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ARMENIAN
ARMENIAN
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Beit
Beit
MOUNT ZION
MOUNT ZION
MISHMEROT
MISHMEROT
HA-KEHUNA
ha-Sofer
ha-Sofer
DAVID
p120
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A R A R A T
A R A R A T
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KIKAR
TIFERET TIFERET The Nea The Nea A - S H A L O M DAVID
YERUSHALA YERUSHALAYIMYIM Vaults Vaults H M A A L E H A - S H A L O M V I D V I D
City City M A A L E D A D A
Walls Walls R R
JEWISH
JEWISH
M A L K I T S E D E K T
Zion SHAAR TSIYON
Zion SHAAR TSIYON I I QUARTER QUARTER
Gate Gate M A L K I T S E D E K L O T L O T
A
H A T I V A T E T S Y O N I S T W A D I H I L W A S W A D I H I L W A S T M A A 0 metres 0 metres 100 N 100 N
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A
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0 yards 0 yards 100 100
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1
WESTERN WALL
S3 ⌂ Western Wall Plaza ∑ thekotel.org
A massive, blank wall built of huge stone blocks, the Western Wall
(Ha-Kotel in Hebrew) is Judaism’s holiest site, and the plaza in front
EXPERIENCE Jewish Quarter wall of the Temple Mount and was built by Herod the Great during
of it is a permanent place of worship. The wall is part of the retaining
his expansion of the Temple enclosure (p70).
The Western Wall Plaza functions as a large,
People sit on the ground reciting the Book of
Lamentations and liturgical dirges. Since the
open-air synagogue where groups gather to
recite the daily, Shabbat (Sabbath) and festival
plaza is essentially a public space, conflicts
services of the Jewish faith. Special events
are also celebrated here, such as the religious
the men’s and women’s sections and the wish
of non-Orthodox groups to hold services in
coming of age of a boy or girl (bar or bat
which men and women participate together.
mitzvah). Some worshippers visit the wall arise over such issues as the relative size of
daily to recite the entire Book of Psalms;
others, who believe that petitions to God
made at the wall are specially effective, insert Others, who believe that
written prayers into the stones. On Tisha B’Av, petitions to God made at the
the ninth day of the month of Av, which falls in
either July or August, a fast is held commem- wall are specially effective, insert
orating the destruction of both Temples (p48). written prayers into the stones.
Did You Know?
The largest of the
Western Wall’s
Herodian-era stones
weighs 570 tonnes.
Jewish worshippers at the
Western Wall, the sacred
remains of the Second Temple
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Must See
Visiting the Western Wall
Houses covered most of what’s now the
Western Wall Plaza until relatively recently.
When the Israelis gained control of the Old
City after the 1967 war, they levelled the
neighbouring Arab district. The huge, lower
stones of the wall are Herodian, while those
higher up date from early Islamic times. During
the Ottoman period, the wall became where
Jews went to lament the destruction of the
Second Temple and for this reason it was for
centuries known as the Wailing Wall. Non-Jews
can approach the wall, provided they dress
appropriately and cover their heads. Praying in a covered part of the wall
At the left-hand corner of the men’s prayer that has been made into a tunnel
section is Wilson’s Arch (named after a 19th-
century archaeologist). Now contained within
a building that functions as a synagogue, it along a Herodian street, below today’s
originally carried the Causeway to the Temple. street level, and emerges on the Via Dolorosa.
From the arch, archaeologists have dug The Chain of the Generations Centre tells
the Western Wall Tunnel to explore the wall’s the story of the Jewish people. Access to
foundations. It follows the base of the outside this and the Western Wall Tunnel is by tour
face of the Temple wall only; book well in advance.
Women standing in prayer at
the women’s section of the wall
GENDER EQUALITY
AT THE WALL
In the 19th century, the
Western Wall was not
gender-segregated, but
after the 1967 war the
Orthodox-run Chief
Rabbinate was given
control of the Western
Wall Plaza and divided
it into a men’s section
and a women’s section.
In 1968, the Reform
Movement demanded
that egalitarian (mixed-
gender) prayers be per-
mitted, but the issue –
championed for decades
by Women of the Wall –
is still hugely contro-
versial. As of 2018,
a government plan
to create an area for
egalitarian prayers
under Robinson’s Arch,
enabling women to read
from the Torah and
wear prayer shawls,
had been brought to a
halt after objections
from ultra-Orthodox
political parties.
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The vast Western Wall Plaza, alongside Temple Mount
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2 '
JERUSALEM
ARCHAEOLOGICAL
PARK
EXPERIENCE Jewish Quarter S4 ⌂ Batei Makhase St, Jewish Quarter # 8am–5pm Sun–Thu,
8am–2pm Fri ¢ Sat & Jewish holidays ∑ archpark.org.il
This small, L-shaped site reveals the entire sweep of the history of
Jerusalem, from the days of the First Temple to the Omayyad era. Key
remains include the vestiges of Robinson’s Arch, a Herodian shopping
street, a medieval tower and the Omayyad palaces.
The area south of the Western Wall and Haram ash-Sharif is
one of the most important archaeological sites in all Jerusalem. Did You Know?
Excavations of the site were begun in the 19th century by biblical
The first serious
scholars such as Edward Robinson, who identified the huge excavations of the site
arch that is now named after him. Modern excavations, ongoing
here since 1968, have uncovered a wealth of remains that offer were made in 1867 by
fascinating insights into ancient life in the city. Start your visit at British officer Captain
the Davidson Center, which provides a multimedia introduction Charles Warren.
to the site and contextualizes the archaeologists’ findings.
The Western Wall is a
part of the retaining wall
of the Temple Mount,
which runs south into the
Archaeological Park.
A row of stones
ROBINSON’S ARCH projecting from
the wall is the
South of the women’s remains of
section of the Western Robinson’s Arch.
Wall, high above an
area intended for egal
itarian Jewish prayer
(p91), Robinson’s Arch
angles out from the The ritual baths are
surroun ding Herodian where worshippers
stones. Built in the late purified themselves
before approaching
1st century BC, the arch the Temple.
was once 13 m (43 ft)
wide and formed part
of a monumental stair At the base of the
case that linked the Temple Mount is a
Temple with the Upper street dating from the
City’s market. In AD 70, Second Temple era.
the structure was des
troyed by the Romans; The subterranean
Davidson Center
some of the stones that contains artifacts
tumbled from the arch from the site.
still lie where they fell
at the moment that the
structure collapsed. Dung Gate
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Must See
The remains of the Omayyad Palace,
seen from the corner of Temple Mount
Learning about the
history of the site at
the Davidson Center
El-Aqsa Mosque The Crusader-era tower
partially obscures the
Double Gate.
The Hulda Gates
provided access to
the precincts of the
Second Temple.
The excavated site,
situated at the south
side of Temple Mount
The Old City walls
A canopy covers what was date from the reign of
the central courtyard of an Suleyman the Great.
Omayyad-era palace.
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Paintings and tapestries
for sale in the historic
Cardo shopping arcade
On the building next to
the exposed wall, a clearly
visible line indicates what
EXPERIENCE Jewish Quarter EXPERIENCE MORE Also visible are the remains
archaeologists think was the
original height of the wall.
of housing from the same
period, demolished to make
way for the wall, as described
in the Book of Isaiah (22: 10),
“And ye have numbered the
houses of Jerusalem, and the
to fortify the wall.”
3 An exhibition on Jewish houses have ye broken down
Quarter Road entitled
The Cardo “Alone on the Walls” displays
photographs that document 5
Q4 Hurva Square
the fall of the Jewish Quarter
Now in part an exclusive to a regiment of the Arab R1
shopping arcade, the Cardo Legion in 1947–8, in which
was Jerusalem’s main thorough 68 residents lost their lives. This charming square is
fare in the Byzantine era. the social centre of the
It was originally laid by the Jewish Quarter – and, for the
Romans, then extended in 4 devoutly Orthodox families
the 4th century as Christian who live nearby, a welcome
pilgrims began to flock The Broad Wall playground. On the west
to Jerusalem and the city R1 ⌂ Plugat ha-Kotel St side are the historic Hurva
expanded accordingly. The and Ramban synagogue
Byzantine extension, which The Jewish Quarter was complexes, as well as the
remains in evidence today, largely destroyed during the minaret of the long-vanished
linked the two major places 1948 War (p53) and allowed Mosque of Sidna Omar, which
of worship of the time, the to deteriorate further under was built in the 14th century
Church of the Holy Sepulchre Jordanian occupation. under the Mamelukes. The
(p108) in the north and the Following the 1967 Israeli square is surrounded by
long-since-vanished Nea victory, a vast reconstruction cafés, souvenir shops and
Basilica in the south. programme resulted in many
The central roadway of the significant archaeological
Byzantine Cardo was 12.5 m finds. One of these was the
(41 ft) wide. This was flanked unearthing of the foundations
by broad porticoed pavements of a wall 7 m (22 ft) thick and
and lined with shops. You can 65 m (215 ft) long. This was
visit a reconstructed section, possibly part of fortifications
which runs for almost 200 m built by King Hezekiah in the
(650 ft) along Jewish Quarter 8th century BC to enclose
(Ha-Yehudim) Road. a new quarter outside the
The Cardo’s continued previous city wall. The need
importance during the for expansion was probably
reign of Justinian in the 6th brought about by a rush of
century is apparent from its refugees after the Assyrian
prominent appearance on invasion of 722 BC.
the famous Madaba mosaic
map (p260) of the Holy Land.
Some 500 years later, during
the Crusader era, the Cardo The reconstructed Hurva
was transformed into a Synagogue, overlooking the
covered market. expansive Hurva Square
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Ashkenazi community rebuilt
a long-ruined synagogue
here, but two decades later it
SHOP was burned down by Muslim
creditors angered by the
community’s unpaid debts.
The Cardo From 1857 to 1864, the
The main shopping synagogue was grandly
street during the late rebuilt in the Neo-Byzantine
Roman and Byzantine style, but in 1948, a day before
eras is thriving once the surrender of the Jewish
more, with upmarket Quarter, it was blown up by
shops selling Jewish Jordan’s Arab Legion.
ritual objects, paintings, Although much of the
sculptures, jewellery Jewish Quarter was rebuilt
and souvenirs. in the years after 1967, the
Q4 Hurva remained a ruin until The glowing interior of
⌂ Jewish Quarter 2010, when archaeological Moses Ben Nahman’s
excavations were followed by Ramban Synagogue
reconstruction in the original
19th-century style. There are
magnificent city views from on Mount Zion and built a
a few snack bars that set the veranda around the base synagogue. Some time around
up open-air tables when of the dome. 1400 it was moved to its
the weather is good. present site, perhaps the first
time there had been a Jewish
7 presence in this quarter of the
6 " Ramban Synagogue Old City since the exile of the
Jews in AD 135. The synagogue
Hurva Synagogue had to be rebuilt in 1523 after
Q4 ⌂ Hurva Square
Q4 ⌂ Hurva Square # For morning and it collapsed. At this time, it was
# 9am–5pm Sun–Thu, evening prayers probably the only Jewish place
of worship in what was then
9am–1pm Fri ∑ rova-
yehudi.org.il When the Spanish rabbi and Ottoman-controlled Jerusalem.
scholar Moses Ben Nahman In 1587, the authorities banned
Hurva means “ruin”, and (Nahmanides) arrived in the Jews from worship in the
the history of this synagogue Jerusalem in 1267, he was synagogue and the building
more than justifies its name. shocked to find only a handful became a workshop.
In the 1690s, Jerusalem’s of Jews in the city. Dedicating It was not until the Israelis
himself to nurturing a Jewish took control of the Old City in
community, he purchased 1967 that it was restored as a
land near King David’s Tomb place of worship.
096-097_EW_Jerusalem.indd 97 23/11/2018 12:56
8 was part of a wealthy “Upper INSIDER TIP
City”, mostly occupied by
Tiferet Yisrael Street the families of important Two for the
Jewish priests. During post- Price of One
R4
1967 redevelopment, the The entrance fee to the
This is one of the busiest remains of several large Wohl Archaeological
streets in the Jewish Quarter, houses were unearthed. Museum also includes
connecting Hurva Square This rediscovered Herodian admission to the
excavations at the
quarter now lies 3–7 m
with the stairs down to the
EXPERIENCE Jewish Quarter Yisrael Synagogue, built from and houses the Wohl in AD 70. The most complete
Burnt House (p100).
(10–22 ft) below street level,
Western Wall. Partway along
under a modern building,
is the shell of the Tiferet
Archaeological Museum.
1857 to 1872 and destroyed
of all the Herodian buildings
The museum is remarkable
by the Jordanians in 1948. The
is the Palatial Mansion, with
for its vivid evocation of
street ends in an attractive,
tree-shaded square that has
more splendid mosaic floors
everyday life 2,000 years
several snack bars and cafés,
ago. All the houses had an
and ritual baths.
including the popular Quarter
Café, serving kosher food; the
and cisterns to collect rain,
terrace offers great views of
which was the only source
of water at the time. The
the Dome of the Rock. inner courtyard, ritual baths, 10
first part of the museum, Batei Makhase Square
the Western House, has a R5
mosaic in the vestibule and
9 " a well-preserved ritual bath This quiet square is named
Wohl Archaeological (mikveh). Beyond this is after the so-called Shelter
Museum the Middle Complex, the Houses (Batei Makhase),
remains of two separate just to the south. They were
R4 ⌂ 1 Ha-Karaim St houses where arch aeologists built in 1862 by Jews from
§ (02) 626 5922 # 9am–
5pm Sun–Thu, 9am–1pm Fri found a maze-pattern mosaic Germany and Holland to
floor covered in burned house destitute immigrants
In the era of Herod the Great wood; this, they surmised, from central Europe, and
(37–4 BC), the area of the was fire damage from the restored after severe damage
present-day Jewish Quarter Roman siege of Jerusalem in the 1948 war.
The work brought to light
remains of the Nea (New)
Basilica, previously known
only from the Madaba map
(p260) and literary sources.
Built by Byzantine emperor
Justinian in AD 543, it was at
the time the largest basilica
in the Holy Land. The remains
of one of the apses can be
seen near the square’s south-
west corner. Archae ologists
have now traced the full
extent of the basilica – an
enormous 116 m (380 ft)
by 52 m (171 ft). Impressive
remains can also be found
in the cellar of a house north
of the square.
The handsome, arcaded
building on the western side
of the square was built for
the Rothschild family in 1871.
Remains of ancient houses
on show in the Wohl
Archaeological Museum
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Interior of the Yochanan ben
Zakkai Synagogue, one of the
Sephardic Synagogues
Standing in front of it are street level because, under synagogue prayer, hence
parts of Roman columns, Ottoman law, synagogues the name. The Istanbuli
whose original provenance could not rise higher than Synagogue was built in 1857
is unknown. nearby mosques. Some of the by immigrants from Turkey.
furnishings were salvaged
from Italian synagogues
damaged during World War II.
11 " The Yochanan ben Zakkai 12 "
The Sephardic Synagogue, built in the early Old Yishuv Court
Synagogues 1600s, hosts the installation of Museum
Israel’s Sephardic chief rabbis.
R4 ⌂ Mishmarot Q4 ⌂ 6 Or ha-Khayim St
HaKehuna St § (02) 628 Its courtyard was converted § (02) 627 6319 # 10am–
into the Middle Synagogue,
0592 # 9am–4pm Sun– 5pm Sun–Thu (to 3pm
Thu, 9am–1pm Fri (call dating in its present form from winter), 10am–1pm Fri
ahead to schedule a visit) the 1830s. The Prophet Elijah
Synagogue, once a study hall, This small museum is devoted
Long the spiritual centre was consecrated in 1702. to the city’s Jewish community
of Jerusalem’s Sephardic Legend has it that on Yom from the mid-19th century
community, this cluster of Kippur, Elijah appeared as the to the end of Ottoman rule in
synagogues was built below tenth adult male needed for 1917. Of Turkish construction,
thought to date from the
15th or 16th centuries, it was
ULTRA-ORTHODOX JEWS once part of a private home
Israel’s most conservative Jewish communities, and contains memorabilia
ultra-Orthodox Jews – also known as Haredim (“those and photographs. Its Ari
who tremble before God”) – are grounded in rigorous Synagogue, on the ground
observance of Jewish law and the study of the Torah. floor, used by a Sephardic
Dressed in white shirts, black caftans and black fedoras congregation during the
or homburgs (the men), and long skirts and shirts with Ottoman period, was badly
long sleeves and high necklines (the women, who, if damaged in the fighting
married, cover their hair), their traditions date back to a of 1936, and fell into disuse
19th-century backlash against most Eastern European until 1967, when it was
Jews’ decision to liberate themselves from the confines restored. On the top floor
of the shtetl (small Jewish towns or villages). The is the 18th-century Or ha-
Haredim reject modern life and, as much as possible, Khayim Synagogue, used by
avoid contact with the outside world. More radical groups Ashkenazi Jews in the 19th
oppose the use of Hebrew, speaking Yiddish instead, and century. Closed between 1948
some do not recognize the State of Israel or its laws. and 1967, it is now functioning
as a synagogue once more.
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13 "
A Burnt House stone
Ariel Centre for tablet with Aramaic
Jerusalem in the First inscription
Temple Period
R4 ⌂ Bonei Hahomah St
# 9am–4pm Sun–Thu (visits that was carried out in
must be booked in advance) 1909–11 by English
archaeologist Captain
EXPERIENCE Jewish Quarter fascinating exhibit in the penetrated underneath the which extended to the south.
∑ ybz.org.il
Mont ague Parker. His
The principal and most
team of excavators
Haram eshSharif in search of
Ariel Centre for Jerusalem
a chamber that, according to
in the First Temple Period
legend, contained King
is a model of all the archae
Solomon’s treasure. When
ological remains of First
Temple Period Jerusalem
news of the excavation got
(around the 8th century BC).
demonstrations by both Jews
through the wealthy Upper
The model serves to illustrate
the relationships between
and Muslims, who were united
City, setting fire to the houses.
in their angry opposition to
The charred walls and a coin
the different remains, which out, there were violent A month later they rampaged
can be difficult to interpret the desecration of their holy dated to AD 69, which were
when they are viewed on site. Parker and his excavaters discovered during exca
the ground, surrounded were forced to flee the city. vations here in the 1970s,
by various other buildings. indicate that this was one
It is also interesting to see of those houses.
the original topography of Artifacts on display include
the area around Jerusalem 14 " ovens, cooking pots and a
before valleys were filled in The Burnt House spear. A stone weight that
and occupation layers were R4 ⌂ Tiferet Yisrael St was discovered among the
built up. The centre also has § (02) 626 5906 # 9am– debris bears the inscription
an audio visual show, which 5pm Sun–Thu, 9am–1pm Fri “son of Kathros”, indicating
describes the city’s history that the house belonged
from 1000 to 586 BC. In AD 70, the Romans took to a wealthy family of high
Another display consists of Jerusalem and destroyed priests. They are also known
finds from a clandestine dig the Temple and Lower City from a subsequent reference
to them in the Babylonian
Talmud, which was written
JEWISH QUARTER ARCHITECTURE between the 3rd and 6th
The Jewish Quarter, heavily damaged during the century AD.
1948 War (p53), was systematically razed by the The rooms on view, which
Jordanians, who also expelled all the Jewish residents. are introduced by a moving
Reconstruction began right after the 1967 War, after soundandlight show with
archaeologists had excavated the site. New houses – commentary, comprise a
deliberately asymmetrical and of varying heights to kitchen, four rooms that
evoke haphazard historical development – were built may have been bedrooms
along narrow, cobbled streets using traditional Middle and a bathroom with a
Eastern elements such as arches and domes. Many have ritual bath. It is believed
small courtyards and external stairs. that these rooms formed
part of a considerably
larger residence, but it is not
possible to carry out further
excavations because the
remains lie beneath present
day neighbouring houses.
The entrance fee to the
house also includes a discount
on admission to the Wohl
Archaeo logical Museum
(p98), which provides further
information on excavations
that have been carried out
in the city.
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