(DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Jerusalem, Israel & the Palestinian Territories

Must See






























THE NABATAEANS
The Nabataeans
migrated westward
from northeastern
Arabia in the 6th
century BC, settling
The Tomb of Sextius Further north is the Carmine eventually in Petra.
Florentius, 2nd century Façade with vivid striations of By the 1st century BC,
governor of Arabia red, blue and grey. Continuing they had made it the
alongside the Wadi Mataha centre of a rich and
brings you to a rock-cut com- powerful kingdom, and
Aaron’s Tomb plex known as the House of had built a city large
This site is venerated by Dorotheos, while on the other enough to support up
Muslims, Christians and Jews side of the wadi is a cluster of to 30,000 people. Key
as the place where Moses’s homes and tombs known as to their success was
brother Aaron was buried. Mughar el-Nasara. their ability to control
The white dome of the shrine and conserve water.
can be seen from the High Little Petra The Romans took over
Place of Sacrifice, which may This northern suburb of Petra, Petra in AD 106 and by
be a close enough viewing for Siq el-Berid, is known as Little the 4th century the
most people – the journey Petra because it is like a mini- Nabateans had left,
there involves a three-hour ature version of the main city. for reasons unknown.
ride on horseback and a hard Situated 8 km (5 miles) north
three-hour climb. A guide and of Wadi Musa town, it is most
supplies are essential. easily reached by taxi. The gorge, shorter than the one
journey on foot is hard, but leading into Petra, contains a
Tomb of Sextius rewarding; a guide is essential. simple temple. As you emerge
Florentinus Little Petra seems to have into the town, the incredible
Beyond the Palace Tomb, been a largely residential profusion of façades is over-
along a track skirting the cliff, settlement – it may well have whelming. Flights of steps
stands the Tomb of Sextius been where Petra’s wealthy shoot off in all directions,
Florentinus. Despite its badly merchants had their homes. evoking images of a bustling
eroded façade, the beautiful Just outside its Siq-like urban centre. A particular
and unusual details of its entrance are a large cistern highlight is the beautifully
design are clearly visible. and a Classical temple. The decorated Painted House.
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The spectacular
desert scenery
of Wadi Rum


2
WADI RUM


 C7 ⌂ 30 km (19 miles) SE of the Desert Highway (Route 53); turn off
45 km (28 miles) N of Aqaba
The desert landscape of Wadi Rum is one of the most awe-inspiring
sights in the entire Middle East. Huge ochre-coloured rock pinnacles,
weathered into bulbous, outlandish shapes, rise up 600 m (2,000 ft)
from the flat valley floors, like islands in a sea of red sand. Hundreds
of hiking and climbing routes wind their way up and around the peaks.

This area was once on a major trade route, and evidence
HIDDEN GEM of settlement here includes ruins of a temple built by the
Rock Map at Nabataeans (p251) and carvings and inscriptions left later by
Jebel Amud the Thamuds. TE Lawrence, or Lawrence of Arabia, led many
In a cave situated guerilla operations in the desert here during World War I;
at the base of Jebel sites with a connection to him include Lawrence’s Spring and
Amud, 20 km (12 miles) the spectacular Jebel Makhras, or Seven Pillars of Wisdom
northeast of Rum (named after his famous book, not, as is often suggested, vice
village, is a large rock versa). Today, the region, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is still
marked with enigmatic inhabited by semi-nomadic Bedouin tribes.
indentations and lines. There are essentially two main ways to explore the desert
It is thought by some to of Wadi Rum: through a combination of jeep and hiking, or by
be a topo graphical map camel trekking. Jeeps allow you to travel further and faster, but
of the area, dating from the more traditional means of transport will bring you much
around 3000 BC. closer to the stillness of the desert. Either way, make sure you
carry lots of water and avoid travelling during the midday heat.
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Must See






Did You Know?
The 2015 movie The
Martian was filmed
here, with Wadi Rum
standing in as the
Red Planet.




































1


3
1 Not far from Rum village, the tranquil
Lawrence’s Spring was described by
its namesake as “a paradise just five
feet square”. A Nabataean-built water
channel can be seen nearby.
2 Rum Village is a rapidly growing
Bedouin settlement.
3 The Jebel Umm Fruth Rock Bridge, a
dramatic natural phenomenon, is one of
several rock bridges in the area. It rises
straight from the desert floor and can be
2 climbed and crossed without difficulty.
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EXPERIENCE Petra and Western Jordan


















3 2 "
AMMAN Citadel
⌂ Jebel el-Qalaa § (06) 463
8795 # Summer: 8am–6pm
 C3 k @ n Jordan Tourism Board, El-Mutanabbi St, Jebel daily; winter: 8am–5pm
Amman (Third Circle); (06) 567 8444 Sat–Thu, 9am–4pm Fri
Like Jordan itself, Amman is a modern creation, but For thousands of years, Jebel
one whose roots run deep into history. The hills of el-Qalaa has served as the
Downtown hosted the biblical capital of the Ammonites fortified heart of Amman. The La Locanda
and the Roman city of Philadelphia, as well as an Ammonite capital of Rabbath DLIWAN AL MAJALI ST
Omayyad palace. Amman became the capital of Ammon was situated here, BAOUN IYA STREET AL-KHATHEMI ST
ABDULMUHSEN
Trans-Jordan in the 1920s and today is a bustling, JORDAN STR E E T
forward-looking Arab city of over two million people. King Abdullah Mosque E L - M A L E K H U S S E I N ST R E E T Omayyad
MOH’D ALI AL AJLOUNI ST
850 m (900 yd) KULLIYAT AL SHARIA ST CIRCLE JEBEL Palace
PARIS
EL-MALEK ALI B I N E L- H U S SEIN STREET
STAY Royal Automobile Museum EL-WEIBDEH Archaeological EL-QALAA
JEBEL
10 km (6 miles)
1 1924 on the site of a mosque MOHD IQBAL STREET Museum M ATTHAF STREET
Darat
erected in AD 640 by the caliph
Downtown Omar, is the best atten ded La Locanda D E R A R B EN AL AZWAR S T al-Funun H ASHA M A L- KHEIR S T R E E T Citadel SALAMA BIN AL AKWA STREET
The backstreet souks (markets) in the city. This boutique hotel is P R I NC E M O H A M M E D S T R E E T Temple of
Hercules
around Quraysh, El-Malek Also nearby is the Roman in the fashionable Hashem CINEMA EL-HUSSEIN ST EL-HASHEMI STREET
O M A R AL- K H E YAM STREET
Roman
HASHMITE
Faisal and El-Hashemi streets Nymphaeum, a large public Lweibdeh district A L - M U A T A S I M S T R E E T SQUARE Odeon
form the commercial hub of fountain built in AD 191 that downtown. Its 14 rooms Wild Jordan EL-MALEK S H ABSOUG H ST REET Roman
Centre
Folklore Museum
Amman. Shops here stock contained a pool and was are all styled for a S H A ’A B A N 9 S T R E E T FAISAL STREET and Museum of Theatre
everything from marinated dedicated to the nymphs. different star of Arabic JEBEL BASMAN STREET Popular Traditions
olives to gold jewellery, while Jordan’s Department of music, from Umm Rosa Damascena AMMAN OTHMAN BIN AFFAN STREET Downtown Roman
Nymphaeum
pastry stalls, falafel stands Antiquities is excavating the Kulthoum to Fairuz. 450 m (500 yards) DOWNTOWN King Hussein A LG E R I A S T R E E T
and aromatic coffee and Nymphaeum as part of an ⌂ 52 Baouniya St, R A I N B O W S T R E E T Mosque JEBEL
spice grinders also compete ongoing programme of resto- Lweibdeh EL-JOFEH
for the attention of passers-by. ration, with the intention of ∑ locandahotel.com T A H E R A L J U Q Q A H S T R E E T
Fruit &
There are also several inter- turning it into an archaeological ÐÐÐ Hammam ALI MAHMOUD TAHA STREET Vegetable A L- W A Q I D I S T R E E T
el-Pasha
esting souvenir stalls on El- park with a museum and K H I R F A N S T R E E T M A N G O S T R E E T EL-MALEK TALAL ST
Market
Hashemi Street. The central performance space. There is Q U R AY S H S T R E E T
King Hussein Mosque, built in no timescale for completion. Jordan K H I R F A N S T R E E T 0 metres 400 N
OMAR MATAR ST Museum Church of
254 The Saviour 0 yards 400
254-257_EW_Jerusalem.indd 254 23/11/2018 10:58

Must See
dating from around AD 170
The remains of the and with a seating capacity
Roman temple of of about 6,000. It’s a fine place
Hercules in the Citadel to sit, meet the locals and take
in the city. The back rows of
the theatre were added later
but most of the remains and carved out of an existing
visible today are part of necropolis. At the foot of
what was an Omayyad Palace, the theatre are a Corinthian
completed around AD 750 colonnade and the old Odeon
and destined to last for only (a small theatre or meeting
30 years. The large complex hall). The nearby Hashemite
includes a colonnaded street, Square is a popular hang-out
an impressive audience hall, for local families.
a Byzantine basilica and the Examining an ancient
residence of Amman’s local statue from Ain Ghazal
governor. The southern at the Jordan Museum
Roman Temple of Hercules, 4 "
with its towering columns and Jordan Museum
ornately carved stonework, ⌂ Omar Matar St # 9am– 8,000-year-old plaster statues
was built at the same time as 4pm Sat–Mon, Wed– found in Ain Ghazal and a
the city’s Roman Theatre and Thu; 2pm–5:30pm Fri separate exhibit dedicated
offers fine views over the city. to the Dead Sea Scrolls (p159).
∑ jordanmuseum.jo
One section recounts the
In the Ras Al-Ayn area of development of writing
Downtown Amman, this systems in the region, while
3 " modern museum is one of an extensive display puts the
Roman Theatre the best in the entire region, glories of Petra in its regional
giving a detailed insight into context. The Living History
⌂ El-Hashemi St # Summer:
8am–6pm Sat–Thu, 9am– Jordanian history and culture, gallery looks at traditional
6pm Fri; winter: 8am–4pm from the first humans to the Bedouin life, while the Modern
Sat–Thu, 9am–4pm Fri coming of Islam. Particular Jordan exhibition highlights
highlights among the 2,000 contemporary Jordanian
Amman’s most obvious artifacts on display in this achievements. An upstairs
remnant from the past is its stylish building are the sur- gallery on Islamic Jordan
impressive Roman Theatre, prisingly modern-looking is also planned.
La Locanda AL-KHATHEMI ST DLIWAN AL MAJALI ST
ABDULMUHSEN
BAOUN IYA STREET
King Abdullah Mosque MOH’D ALI AL AJLOUNI ST E L - M A L E K H U S S E I N ST R E E T Omayyad JORDAN STR E E T
850 m (900 yd) KULLIYAT AL SHARIA ST PARIS Palace
EL-MALEK ALI B I N E L- H U S SEIN STREET
CIRCLE JEBEL
Royal Automobile Museum EL-WEIBDEH JEBEL
10 km (6 miles) Archaeological EL-QALAA
MOHD IQBAL STREET Museum M ATTHAF STREET
Darat
al-Funun H ASHA M A L- KHEIR S T R E E T Citadel SALAMA BIN AL AKWA STREET
Temple of
D E R A R B EN AL AZWAR S T
Hercules EL-HASHEMI STREET
O M A R AL- K H E YAM STREET
Hashem CINEMA EL-HUSSEIN ST HASHMITE Roman
Odeon
SQUARE
P R I NC E M O H A M M E D S T R E E T
Wild Jordan S H ABSOUG H ST REET
A L - M U A T A S I M S T R E E T
Centre FAISAL STREET Folklore Museum Roman
EL-MALEK
S H A ’A B A N 9 S T R E E T BASMAN STREET and Museum of Theatre
JEBEL Popular Traditions
AMMAN Roman
Rosa Damascena OTHMAN BIN AFFAN STREET Downtown Nymphaeum
450 m (500 yards) R A I N B O W S T R E E T DOWNTOWN King Hussein EL-JOFEH A LG E R I A S T R E E T
JEBEL
Mosque
Q U R AY S H S T R E E T
T A H E R A L J U Q Q A H S T R E E T
Hammam ALI MAHMOUD TAHA STREET Vegetable A L- W A Q I D I S T R E E T
Fruit &
el-Pasha
K H I R F A N S T R E E T M A N G O S T R E E T EL-MALEK TALAL ST
Market
Jordan
OMAR MATAR ST Museum K H I R F A N S T R E E T Church of 0 metres 400 400 N
0 yards
The Saviour
254-257_EW_Jerusalem.indd 255 23/11/2018 10:58

shoes when you enter the
5 " mosque. Women should INSIDER TIP
King Abdullah Mosque wear a headscarf (provided). Cooking Classes
The attached small Islamic Learn to cook Jordanian,
⌂ Suleyman el-Nabulsi St, museum contains coins Palestinian and other
Jebel el-Webdeh # 8am–
11am & 12:30–2pm Sat–Thu, and examples of Islamic regional cuisines and
then sit down to dine on
9am–10am Fri decorative arts.
the terrace of the Beit
Sitti cookery school
Amman’s most impressive
EXPERIENCE Petra and Western Jordan in 1990 and dedicated by King and Museum of the rababa (a one-stringed
(www.beitsittijo.com),
Islamic monument is the
6 "
run by the ebullient
striking King (El-Malek)
Folklore Museum
Haddad sisters.
Abdullah Mosque, completed
Popular Traditions
Hussein to his grand father.
The soaring central blue dome
⌂ El-Hashemi St § (06)
covers the largest religious
musical instru ment) and
465 1742 # Summer: 8am–
traditional coffee grinders.
space in the city – the prayer
6pm Sat–Thu, 9am–6pm Fri;
hall can hold up to 7,000
The second museum displays
winter: 8am–4pm Sat–Thu,
Circassian and Armenian silver
worshippers. The cavernous,
9am–4pm Fri
jewellery, traditionally given
octagonal interior is deco-
The vaults below the Roman
rated with elegant Qu’ranic
calligraphy and several huge
Theatre are home to these
day, plus amulets made from
Turkish coins and symbols
two modest but interesting
chandeliers. Remove your
museums. Exhibits at the
representing the hands of
Fatima. There are some fine
Folklore Museum include to the bride on her wedding
some trad itional cos- mosaics from Jerash (p258)
tumes, a Bedouin tent, and the baptism site of
choice examples of Wadi el-Kharrar.










The elegant King Abdullah
Mosque, with its enormous
domed prayer hall (inset)
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Must See

A vintage 1916 Cadillac
on display in the Royal
Automobile Museum

7
Darat al-Funun
⌂ Nimer bin Adwan St,
Jebel el-Webdeh
# 10am–7pm Sat–Thu
∑ daratalfunun.org
This art gallery, pleasant café
and small garden dotted with
archaeological remains offer
a tranquil escape from the lunches, and the terrace, in
nearby Downtown bustle. The 8 " particular, affords fantastic
rotating exhibits of contem­ Royal Automobile views over Downtown.
porary art, regular lectures Museum This is also the place for
and occasional music concerts ⌂ King Hussein Park information on ecotourism
make this the best place to # 10am–7pm Wed, Thu & excursions to Jordan’s many
tap into Amman’s thriving Sat–Mon, 11am–7pm Fri nature reserves; possibilities
arts scene. The main gallery ∑ royalautomuseum.jo include hiking and canyoning
is housed in a 1920s villa, next in Wadi Mujib, and the chance
to the charming remains of a The former King Hussein was to see Arabian oryx in the wild
6th­century Byzantine church. passionate about automobiles at the excellent Shaumari
and this museum, situated Wildlife Reserve.
5 km (3 miles) northwest
of the city centre, exhibits
around 70 classic cars and
motorcycles from his personal
collection. The vehicles range EAT
from a 1916 Cadillac to an
array of more modern Lotus,
Ferrari and Porsche sporting Hashem
models. Also on display is the An ever-busy Amman
Mercedes­Benz jeep that icon, Hashem serves up
carried the casket in his bowls of hummus and
funeral procession in 1999. fuul (stewed beans),
mountains of falafel
and gallons of mint tea
with aplomb.
9 - ⌂ Al-Malek St,
Wild Jordan Centre Downtown # 24 hours
⌂ Othman bin Affan St, ÐÐÐ
Jebel Amman ∑ rscn.org.jo
This cutting­edge centre Rosa Damascena
focuses on Jordan’s natural This Syrian restaurant
heritage. The Wild Jordan showcases the breadth
Nature shop stocks products and depth of regional
made by local development cuisine. Eat in the
initiatives throughout Jordan, intimate salon or the
including natural handmade vine-draped garden.
olive oil soaps from Ajlun, ⌂ Second Circle
worked silver from Dana and § (06) 461 0010
Mujib, Bedouin­made candles # 8am–12am daily
from Feynan and hand­painted ÐÐÐ
ostrich eggs from the Eastern
Desert. The excellent café
serves tasty and healthy
257



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4 "=
JERASH



 C3 ⌂ 50 km (31 miles) N of Amman @ From Amman § (02) 634 2471
# Oct–Apr: 8am–4pm Mon–Thu, 9am–4pm Fri–Sun; May–Sep: 8am–7pm
Mon–Thu, 9am–4pm Fri–Sun
EXPERIENCE Petra and Western Jordan a spectacular paved street about 800 m (2,600 ft) long with
Jerash, known as Gerasa in classical times, is one of the most
original and best-preserved Roman cities in the Middle East.
Highlights include the unusual oval-shaped plaza and the Cardo,
chariot tracks still visible in the stones.

Jerash became an urban centre during the 3rd
Theatre is used as a venue for the Jordan
Festival. The Oval Plaza, with its asymmetrical
century BC and from the 1st century BC the
shape, is a unique monument from the Roman
city drew considerable prestige from the semi-
independent status it was given within the
world. To its north is the Cardo, which was
Roman province of Syria. It pros pered greatly
residences. On the left side is the 2nd-century
from its position on the incense and spice
Nymphaeum, a lavish public fountain, and
trade route from Arabia to the Mediterranean.
Trajan’s annexation of the Nabataean capital
nearby is the impressive Temple of Artemis,
the patron goddess of the city in Greek and
Petra (p244) in AD 106 brought the city even lined with the city’s major buildings, shops and
more wealth and by AD 130 Jerash was at its Roman times. Close to the Temple are the
zenith. After a period of decline in the 3rd remains of several Byzantine churches. Further
century, it enjoyed a renais sance as a Christian along the Cardo is the Propylaeum Church,
city under the Byzantines. The Muslims took which sits next to the ruins of an Omayyad
over Jerash in 635, and it was badly damaged Mosque. Beyond lie the unexcavated West
by earth quakes in the 8th century. The final Baths, which preserve a splendid domed ceiling.
blow to the city was dealt by Baldwin II of Allow at least half a day to see the ruins,
Jerusalem in 1112 during the Crusades. and finish off at the Museum, which displays
sarcophagi, statuary and coins.
Exploring the City
The city is reached through Hadrian’s
Arch. Alongside is the Hippodrome, where Jerash prospered greatly from
Gerasa’s chariot races and other sporting its position on the incense and
events were held. Today, re-enactments spice trade route from Arabia
of these events take place daily
(except Tue), while the South to the Mediterranean.
























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Must See
















1 2
1 Hadrian’s Arch, which was
built in honour of the Roman
emperor, stands at the
entrance to the city.
2 The Oval Plaza dates back
to the 1st century AD. It is 80 m
by 90 m (262 ft by 295 ft) and is
enclosed by 160 Ionic columns.
3 The main artery through
Jerash, the Cardo features
regular drainage holes that
connect to an advanced
underground sewage system.





3

The impressive remains of
the elaborately decorated stage
in the South Theatre






























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5 "
MADABA


MOSAICS


EXPERIENCE Petra and Western Jordan Known as the “City of Mosaics”, Madaba is renowned for it spectacular
 C4 ⌂ Madaba @ From Amman # St George’s Church: 8:30am–6pm daily
(from 10:30am Fri & Sun); Archaeological Park: daily
collection of tiled artworks. The most famous of these is the Madaba
Mosaic Map of Jerusalem and the Holy Land, comprised of two million
pieces of delicately positioned local stone.
According to the Old Testament, the Moabite
city of Madaba was one of those conquered
by the tribes of Israel. After changing hands
several times, it flourished under Roman
dominion and by the 4th century AD it had
become an important centre of Christianity,
with its own bishop. The town weathered
invasions by the Persians and Muslims but
declined under the Mamelukes, and was
abandoned during the 16th century. It was
not reoccupied until the late 19th century.
The main attraction is the fabulous mosaic
map housed in St George’s Church in the
town centre. An icon of the Virgin Mary in the
church is believed by Christians to incorporate
a miraculous blue “helping
hand”. An Archaeological Park
encompasses the remains
of several more 6th-century
churches, all with
impressive mosaics, The simple exterior
including one depicting of St George’s Church,
scenes from the legend within which lies the
of Adonis and Aphrodite. Madaba Mosaic Map
The Church of the
Apostles on the southern
edge of town has a mosaic
depicting the sea goddess A detail from the Madaba
Thetis surrounded by fish Mosaic Map, showing Jericho
and sea monsters. and the Jordan River


THE MADABA MOSAIC MAP
In the late 19th century, a small group
of Christians from Kerak moved to
the long-uninhabited site of ancient
Madaba. In 1884, while clearing the
site of an old church to build a new one,
the mosaic map was uncovered. It was
incorporated into the new St George’s
Church but was damaged in the process.
Ten years later, scholars recognized the
historic value of the mosaic, which was
Admiring one of the works on display probably made during the 6th century.
at the Archeological Park
260



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Must See

































































The colourful interior of
St George’s Church with the
mosaic map of the Holy Land
261



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EXPERIENCE MORE



with activities offered under
6 " the umbrella of Baraka 8
Umm Qais Destinations. Local guides Mount Nebo
lead visitors on nature trails
! C2 ⌂ 100 km (62 miles) and hiking and biking tours, ! C3 ⌂ 10 km (6 miles)
EXPERIENCE Petra and Western Jordan ancient Graeco-Roman city kitchen and even beekeeping 5pm Oct–Apr)
NW of Madaba @ From
NW of Amman # 7am–
or take them foraging for
Madaba, then a 4-km
sunset daily
edible plants. There are
(2.5-mile) walk, or taxi
Umm Qais is the site of the
cooking classes in a family
# 7am–7pm daily (to
of Gadara. The ruins lie in lush
with the village apiarist.
hill country overlooking the
This mountain is at the end
Baraka Destinations
Golan Heights and the Sea
of the long chain skirting the
Dead Sea, with spectacular
of Galilee. The city is well
∑ barakadestinations.com
views of the Jordan River and
known for Jesus’s miracle of
the Gadarene Swine, when he
Dead Sea 1,000 m (3,300 ft)
below. It was from here that
cast out demons and turned
7 "
them into pigs (Matthew 8:
Land just before he died
28–34). Since 1974, archae-
(Deuteronomy 34: 1–5).
ologists have uncovered many
! C3 ⌂ 50 km (31 miles)
impressive Roman remains,
In the early 4th century, a
W of Amman n (02) 642
including a colonnaded street, Ajlun Moses saw the Promised
sanctuary, mentioned by the
0115
a theatre and a mausoleum. pilgrim nun Egeria, was built
The village is also at the The market town of Ajlun is on Mount Nebo (Fasaliyyeh
forefront of Jordan’s recent dominated by the fortress in Arabic) to honour Moses,
community tourism boom, of Qalat ar-Rabad, a superb probably over the remains of
example of Arab military a more ancient construction.
engineering. Built in 1184–5, During the Byzantine period,
it was used by the Ottomans the church was transformed
Did You Know? up until the 18th century. At a into a fine basilica with a
height of more than 1,200 m sacristy and new baptistry.
The ancient theatre of (4,000 ft), it offers fantastic Monastic buildings were
Gadara at Umm Qais views over the Jordan Valley. added later.
was unusual for its Since 1933, reconstruction
time in that the seats Qalat ar-Rabad work has been carried out on
had back rests. # 8am–5pm daily the church, now known as the
(to 4pm winter) Memorial Church of Moses.










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Exploring the tunnels
of Kerak Castle of the
Knights Templar

Mosaics decorating the inside include a there, steps lead down to vast,
remarkable example in the Old Baptistry dimly lit, vaulted rooms and
depicting farmers, hunters and an corridors below ground. The
lower courtyard gives access
assortment of animals. to a small Archaeological
Museum displaying various
artifacts that were excavated
Mosaics decorating the inside a magnificent Crusader citadel. in the local area.
include a remarkable example Kerak was an important city
in the Old Baptistry depicting (and for a time the capital) of Archaeological Museum
farmers, hunters and animals the biblical kingdom of Moab. ' ⌂ Kerak Castle,
surrounded by geometric For this reason, Kerak Castle El-Mujamma St § (03) 235
decoration. A Greek inscrip­ is also sometimes known as 1862 # 9am–5pm daily
tion dates it to AD 531. Next Krak des Moabites.
to the New Baptistry, a mosaic The stronghold was built
cross from the original church in 1142 by the Frankish lord JORDAN TRAIL
stands on a modern altar. of Oultrejourdain, Payen The Jordan Trail (www.
Outside, the foundations of le Bouteiller, to whom the jordantrail.org) opened
the monastery can be seen. territory had been ceded by in 2015 and is an epic
King Baldwin II of Jerusalem in hiking trail that runs
1126. It was the pearl in the for 650 km (400 miles)
9 chain of fortifications that ran along the length of the
between Jerusalem and Aqaba,
Kerak and replaced Shobak as the country from Umm Qais
to the Red Sea. The trail
centre of Oultre jourdain. Under is divided into eight
! C4 ⌂ 70 km (45 miles)
SE of Amman @ n El- Reynald de Châtillon it resisted discrete sections and
assaults by Saladin’s troops in
Mujamma St; (03) 235 4263 there is an annual
1183 and 1184, but finally fell 36-day supported
The town of Kerak, on top of after a siege in 1188. through-hike that
a hill with a sheer drop on Arab repairs and additions runs every March. The
three sides, is dominated by made in white limestone four-day route through
contrast with the Crusader the spectacular Dana
parts built in dark, volcanic Wildlife Reserve to
tufa. The upper courtyard, Petra has been dubbed
The imposing 12th-century containing a much­damaged the Inca Trail of the
fortress of Qalat ar-Rabad, Crusader chapel, provides an Middle East.
which overlooks Ajlun exceptional viewpoint. From
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10 Large sandy beaches stretch out along
Shobak the coast, bounded by modern hotels,
while the steep mountains behind form
! C5 ⌂ 60 km (37 miles) S of a spectacular natural backdrop.
Tafila § (03) 213 2138 @ To
Shobak village, then taxi
# Daily 11 stretch out along the coast,
bounded by modern hotels,
Shobak, isolated on a rocky,
EXPERIENCE Petra and Western Jordan (4,265 ft) above sea level, S of Amman k @ n El- natural backdrop.
Aqaba
while the steep mountains
conical hill in rough, barren
behind form a spectacular
surroundings at 1,300 m
! B7 ⌂ 283 km (176 miles)
Aqaba’s long and glorious
is perhaps the most impres­
Koornish St (next to the
past also provides it with
sively sited castle in Jordan. It
Fort); (03) 201 3363
some notable archaeological
was called Krak de Montréal,
or Mons Regalis, and was
The only Jordanian outlet to the sites to visit. It is thought to
sea, Aqaba is a very important
be near the site of biblical
the first outpost (1115) built
Ezion­Geber, the large port
beyond the Jordan River by
commercial port town. This is
evidenced by the relentless
King Baldwin I of Jerusalem to
said, but not proven, to have
stream of heavy trucks going
guard the road from Egypt to
been built by King Solomon.
Damascus. It resisted many
springs ensured that the
Desert Highway.
sieges until 1189, when it fell
town became a popular
to Saladin’s troops.
South of the town, however,
the crystal clear waters are
The towers and walls are
caravan stop for merchants
well preserved and decorated to and from Amman on the Aqaba’s deep fresh water
home to fabulous coral reefs – travelling between Egypt,
with carved inscriptions that the main reason for Aqaba’s the Mediterranean coast and
date from the 14th­century popularity with visitors, with Arabia. By the 2nd century BC,
Mameluke renovations, but some of the best scuba diving the now prosperous town had
the inside is ruinous. Near in the world. Closer to shore, fallen under the control of the
the gatehouse, a well with many other water sports Nabataeans (p251). Such
more than 350 dangerously also help to provide escape prosperity saw it conquered
slippery, spiral, rock­cut steps from the extreme summer by the Romans in AD 106,
descends to a spring. heat. Large sandy beaches and the Muslims in AD 630.










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Fonts: Aptifer Sans LT Pro, Posterama Text, Soho Gothic
Pro, Soho Pro, ITC Caslon 224

in 1068, and the Crusader Aqaba Marine Science
SCUBA DIVING conquests of the 12th century, Station Aquarium, containing
Jordan manages to the city was abandoned. some of the most important
squeeze in some world- You can visit the ruins at the species of the Gulf of Aqaba.
class scuba diving on Ayla digs, next to the coastal It also displays information on
its short Red Sea coast- Corniche road. Much of the conservation in the Red Sea.
line. Dive centres near foundations of walls, towers
Aqaba cater for all and a series of buildings Archaeological Museum
levels, and beginners still remain, and there’s an " ⌂ El-Koornish St (next
can learn straight Archaeological Museum to Mameluke Fort) § (03)
off the beach and be next to the tourist office. 201 9063 # 8am–4pm daily
swimming among coral Another key archaeological
almost immediately. site is the Mameluke Fort, Mameluke Fort
There are multiple which is currently closed for " ⌂ La Côte Verte
dive sites within the renovation. Built in the 16th § (03) 201 9063
Aqaba Marine Reserve, century, its portal now bears
which abounds in soft the coat-of-arms of the Aqaba Marine Science
coral, along with the Hashemites, placed there Station Aquarium
dazzlingly diverse after Lawrence of Arabia’s " ⌂ South Coast (near ferry
marine life of the Cedar troops conquered the port terminal) § (03) 201 5145
Pride artificial reef. during World War I. The fort # 7:30am–3:30pm daily
also served as a caravanserai,
and some restored rooms
Under Muslim control, Aqaba reflect this more peaceful role.
became an important stage West past the industrial
on the pilgrimage to Mecca, port and just beyond the
and the Muslims built the ferry terminal is the small
fortified town of Ayla nearby
to the north. After suffering a
major earthquake in 748, the Eilat’s beach
town was rebuilt, and thrived and marina and
with an increasing sea trade. (inset) divers
Following another earthquake out in the bay

































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NEED TO KNOW



















































Driving through the Negev Desert
















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Before You Go .............................................268

Getting Around ...........................................270

Practical Information ................................274






























































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BEFORE
YOU GO





NEED TO KNOW Before You Go all eventualities by considering the following points before you travel.
Forward planning is essential to any successful trip. Be prepared for


Passports and Visas
AT A GLANCE
Israel
CURRENCY
To enter Israel you must have a passport with
Israeli Shekel
Jordanian Dinar
at least six months of validity left. Israel issues
(ILS)
(JOD)
on-arrival tourist visas, usually valid for three
months, to most holders of passports from
Ò
Ð
North and South America, Europe, Australia,
New Zealand, South Africa, Hong Kong, South
Korea, the Philippines and Japan. Nationals of
AVERAGE DAILY SPEND other countries must obtain a visa from an
Israeli consulate in their home country; for
details, see the Israel Ministry of Foreign
Affairs website, under Consular Services.
SAVE SPEND SPLURGE Rather than stamping passports, Israeli
450 ILS 800 ILS 1,200 ILS authorities generally issue an entry card. An
20 JOD 50 JOD 120 JOD Israeli stamp in your passport will bar you
from visiting some Arab and Muslim countries,
notably Lebanon and Iran.
Israel Ministry of Foreign Affairs
∑ mfa.org.il
BOTTLED COFFEE BEER DINNER
WATER FOR TWO Palestinian Territories
7 ILS 11 ILS 26 ILS 275 ILS Access to the Palestinian Territories is through
0.3 JOD 2 JOD 5 JOD 30 JOD Israel. The West Bank’s King Hussein/Allenby
Bridge crossing with Jordan is controlled by
Israel, as are the checkpoints between Israel and
the Palestinian Territories. When travelling to
ESSENTIAL PHRASES and around the Palestinian Territories, always
Shalom (Hebrew) carry your passport and your loose-leaf Israeli
Hello
Márhaba (Arabic) entry card as these are likely to be checked.
L’hitra’ot (Hebrew) Jordan
Goodbye
Má’a as-saláama (Arabic) To enter Jordan you must have a passport
B’vakasha (Hebrew) valid for at least six months. Most holders
Please of passports from North America, Europe,
Min fádlak/fádlik (Arabic)
Australia, New Zealand, South Africa, Hong
Thank you Todah (Hebrew) Kong, South Korea and Japan can obtain a
Shúkran (Arabic) single-entry visa, valid for one month, on arrival
at Amman’s Queen Alia airport or via the Sheikh
Hussein/Jordan River crossing from Israel. If
ELECTRICITY entering Jordan via the King Hussein/Allenby
SUPPLY Bridge crossing or the Wadi Araba/Yitzhak Rabin
Power sockets are type crossing, you must obtain your visa in advance
C and H, fitting two- from the Jordanian consulate in your home
and three-pronged country or in Ramat Gan (near Tel Aviv). Jordan’s
plugs. Standard visa fee is waived if you purchase a Jordan Pass
voltage is 220v. (p276) in advance.
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Travel Safety Advice Travellers with Specific Needs
Current travel safety information is available from Israel offers a good level of accessibility for
the US Department of State, the UK Foreign those with limited mobility. Jerusalem’s Old City
and Commonwealth Office and the Australian is not easy to navigate, but there is a wheelchair
Department of Foreign Affairs and Trade. route starting from Jaffa Gate. City buses have
Australia fold-out ramps and Jerusalem’s light rail system
∑ smartraveller.gov.au is wheelchair-friendly. Most Israeli train stations
UK have disabled access, and many national parks
∑ gov.uk/foreign-travel-advice and nature reserves have wheelchair routes.
US Access Israel has details on sites and services.
∑ travel.state.gov In Jordan, only luxury hotels are equipped
for the disabled. Cities and most sites are rough
Customs Information terrain, so visits can be difficult.
Access Israel
Israel and the Palestinian Authority have a ∑ aisrael.org
customs union, and there are no customs
checks when passing between the two. Each Language
visitor may bring 1 litre of spirits or 2 litres of
wine, 250 ml of perfume, 250 g of tobacco In Israel all signs are bilingual (Hebrew/English),
(200 cigarettes) and gifts worth up to US$200. and most people speak some English. In tourist
Jordan allows 1 litre of spirits or two bottles areas in the Palestinian Territories and Jordan,
of wine, a “reasonable” quantity of perfume it is generally easy to find English speakers.
for personal use, 200 g of tobacco and gifts
worth up to US$150. All prohibit the export Opening Times
of antiquities without special authorization.
Because of the many religious holidays in the
Insurance region, opening hours vary greatly. In Jewish
areas of Israel, shops are closed and public
Medical care in Israel’s world-class hospitals – transport shuts down on Shabbat (from mid-
to which seriously ill tourists in the West Bank afternoon on Friday until Sunday morning),
are referred – and in private hospitals in Jordan and on many Jewish holidays. Restaurants and
is costly, so do not travel without comprehensive places of entertainment in secular Jewish areas
medical insurance. are open on Shabbat and Jewish holidays.
In Christian areas, many shops are closed on
Vaccinations Sunday, while Muslim sites and some Muslim-
owned businesses are closed on Fridays. Petra,
No specific shots are required to visit the region Jerash and other main sites in Jordan are open
(unless, in the case of Jordan, you have recently daily, but smaller sites and many museums
been in an area with yellow fever). Some wild close on Tuesdays.
mammals carry rabies so if you get bitten or
scratched go to a hospital immediately. Public and Religious Holidays
Money Dates for public and religious holidays are highly
variable, so check ahead before travelling. The
Israel and the Palestinian Territories use the Hebrew calendar is lunisolar, with seven leap
Israeli Shekel (ILS), while Jordan’s currency is months added every 19 years, so Jewish holidays
the Jordanian Dinar (JOD). Almost all shops and do not necessarily land in the same Gregorian
restaurants in Israel take credit cards, as do month each year. The Muslim calendar is purely
many in the Palestinian Territories and Jordan. lunar so Muslim holidays arrive 11 or 12 days
ATMs are easy to find throughout Israel and in earlier each year. The various Christian churches
cities in Jordan and the Palestinian Territories. also use a range of non-Gregorian calendars.

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GETTING
AROUND





NEED TO KNOW Getting Around discover how best to reach your destination and travel like a local.
Whether you are visiting for a short city break or exploring the desert,


Arriving by Air
AT A GLANCE
Israel has two international airports: Ben-
PUBLIC TRANSPORT COSTS
Gurion, near Tel Aviv, and Ramon, near Eilat.
Thanks to an Open Skies agreement with the
ISRAEL
5.90 ILS
link both airports with cities all over Europe.
Because of security (reputed to be the strictest
Single journey European Union, dozens of low-cost airlines
in the world), it is advisable to arrive for your
Bus and Light Rail flights to and from Israel a full three hours
before departure. Israeli airports are open
ISRAEL every day of the year except Yom Kippur.
13.50 ILS Trains linking Ben-Gurion with Tel Aviv
and Haifa operate 24 hours a day, while the
new high-speed line between the airport and
One-day pass
Bus and Light Rail Jerusalem runs from 6:30am to 7:30pm. All
lines are closed on Shabbat and Jewish holidays.
ISRAEL Taxis and shared minibuses can also be picked
64 ILS up at the airport.
Jordan’s main airport is Queen Alia
International near Amman. Royal Jordanian
Seven-day pass Airlines flies between Amman and Tel Aviv.
Bus and Light Rail Express buses into the city depart from outside
the arrivals terminal.
TOP TIP
Most public transport stops running on Arriving by Land
Shabbat, from mid-afternoon on Friday
to sundown on Saturday. There are two land border crossings between
Israel and Jordan and one between the Israeli-
controlled West Bank and Jordan. Closest to
SPEED LIMIT Jerusalem is the King Hussein/Allenby Bridge
URBAN ROAD, URBAN ROAD, crossing, 16 km (10 miles) east of Jericho. In the
ISRAEL JORDAN south, the Yitzhak Rabin/Wadi Araba crossing is
4 km (2 miles) north of Eilat and 10 km (6 miles)
50 60 from Aqaba. In the north, the Jordan River/
Sheikh Hussein crossing is near Beit She’an,
km/h km/h 30 km (20 miles) south of the Sea of Galilee.
(30 mph) (40 mph) Check with the Israel Airports Authority for
opening times. Israel charges a per-person exit
fee of 101 ILS (175 ILS at Allenby), while Jordan
HIGHWAY, HIGHWAY, charges 10 JOD (bring cash).
ISRAEL JORDAN Land crossings between Israel and Jordan
close on Yom Kippur and the Islamic New Year
110 120 (Eid al-Hijra), while the King Hussein/Allenby
Bridge is closed on Yom Kippur, with the
km/h km/h Palestinian wing also closed on Eid al-Adha.
(70 mph) (75 mph) Israel Airports Authority
∑ iaa.gov.il

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GETTING TO AND FROM BEN-GURION AIRPORT
City Distance Taxi fare Train journey time
Jerusalem 52 km (32 miles) 267 ILS 24 mins
Tel Aviv 25 km (15 miles) 142 ILS 16 mins
Haifa 115 km (71 miles) 532 ILS 90 mins


Train Travel Jordan’s largest intercity bus company is JETT,
which runs air-conditioned buses from several
Israel Railways has a growing network that stations in Amman to King Hussein/Allenby
links Akko, Haifa, Karmiel and Beit She’an in the Bridge, Petra and Aqaba. Booking your seat
north with Ben-Gurion Airport, Jerusalem and in advance is advisable.
Be’er Sheva in the centre and south, with Tel Abraham Tours
Aviv’s four stations serving as a central hub. ∑ abrahamtours.com
For tourists, the most useful (and beautiful) Egged
line follows the Mediterranean coast, linking ∑ egged.co.il
Tel Aviv with Nahariya, near the border with Israel Public Transportation Information
Lebanon. The trains are swift, comfortable and ∑ bus.co.il
inexpensive but can be crowded on Sunday JETT
mornings and Thursday evenings. The express ∑ jett.com.jo
train linking Jerusalem with Tel Aviv, opened
in 2018, takes just 28 minutes. Local Bus and Light Rail
Israel Railways
∑ rail.co.il All of Israel’s cities have excellent local public
transport, with plenty of information available
Intercity Bus Travel online in English. Local buses are easy to use,
fast, frequent and wheelchair-friendly – for
Every town and city in the region has a bus details on services in Jerusalem see the Egged
station, and interurban services are frequent website, and for Tel Aviv check with Dan. Single
and affordable. In Israel, intercity bus services tickets are sold on-board by drivers, but if
are run by over a dozen companies, the largest you’ll be using the bus for multiple journeys
of which is Egged. Details for all services are then it’s worth purchasing a Rav-Kav magnetic
available on the Israel Public Transportation debit card, which gets you discounts. The Rav-
Information website. Advance reservations are Kav card is also valid for journeys on trains and
not required (or even possible), except to Eilat. the Jerusalem Light Rail (JLR).
Intercity bus services stop for Shabbat, ending In Jerusalem, most of the city’s sights are
in the mid-afternoon on Friday and resuming situated along the JLR, an ultramodern tram
sometime between mid-afternoon and an hour line that serves downtown West Jerusalem
after sundown on Saturday. (Jaffa Road), the Old City’s Damascus Gate
Coach tours, such as those run by Abraham and Mount Herzl, as well as the Central Bus
Tours, are an efficient way of visiting several Station. Either use a Rav-Kav card or buy a
sites in one day – something that is not always ticket from the dispenser at the stop and
feasible on public transport. validate it in the time-stamp machine when
In East Jerusalem, buses (and shared taxis) you board. A light rail line in Tel Aviv is currently
to the Palestinian Territories depart from two under construction.
stations: one on Nablus Road for services to To get about in Amman, there are city buses,
Ramallah and the other on Sultan Suleyman but they can be difficult to navigate because
Street for Bethlehem. Change in Ramallah the destination is indicated only in Arabic.
to get to Nablus and Jericho, and in or near Dan
Bethlehem for services to Hebron. ∑ dan.co.il

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Taxis To rent a car, you must be at least 21 years of
age (some companies require that you be 25)
Taxis are generally white with a yellow rooftop and have a driving licence and an international
sign that is lit up when available. It’s easy to credit card (an international driving licence is not
find a taxi in most of the region’s cities. You can necessary). Insurance is compulsory as part of
hail one on a main street, book by phone or use any hire package; if you can get collision damage
an app like Gett. All taxis have meters (which coverage through your credit card, make sure
can print out a receipt on request) and by law the company you’re renting from will accept it.
The rental prices quoted online do not include
drivers must use them – insist that they do or
NEED TO KNOW Getting Around cent from 9pm to 5:30am and on Shabbat and allow their vehicles to be taken into areas
you will pay more than you need to. Taxi fares,
insurance, which can double the total cost.
which are not cheap to begin with, rise by 25 per Most Israeli car rental companies do not
Jewish holidays.
administered by the Palestinian Authority. If
you’d like to drive in the West Bank, you can
In Jerusalem, Israeli drivers may sometimes
rent from Dallah and Goodluck, both based
refuse to go to East Jerusalem; Arab drivers are
in East Jerusalem.
generally willing to go anywhere in the city.
Gett
Dallah
∑ dallahrentacar.com
∑ getaxi.co.il
Service Taxis
∑ rent.eldan.co.il
Goodluck
∑ goodluckcars.com
Known in Hebrew as a sherut and in Arabic as Eldan
a servees, shared taxis – usually minibuses –
operate on fixed routes similar to a bus, but, Driving in the Region
like a taxi, can be hailed on the street. They can Traffic often slows to a crawl in and around
be particularly useful in Israel, as they operate Jerusalem and Tel Aviv, especially during rush
on Shabbat and Jewish holidays. At the start hour (7am–9am and 4pm–6pm Sunday to
of the route, drivers generally wait until every Thursday). It is best to avoid driving at those
seat is taken before setting off. There are no set times if you can. Israel only has three toll roads:
stops; passengers indicate to the driver where Route 6, which links the Be’er Sheva area with
they’d like to be let off. Fares are similar to the the Galilee; an express lane from near Ben-
equivalent bus ride (they cost a bit more on Gurion Airport to Tel Aviv; and the Carmel
Shabbat and Jewish holidays). Service taxis run Tunnels, under Mount Carmel in Haifa. Toll
by Nesher pick up passengers at any address in charges are automatically taken off the credit
Jerusalem and take them to Ben-Gurion Airport card you registered with the hire company,
for 64 ILS per person; reserve a day ahead. though some may ask you to sign a waiver
Service taxis are widely used for getting to whereby you agree not to drive on toll roads.
and around the Palestinian Territories, with the In Jordan, main highways are well surfaced,
Damascus Gate area of Jerusalem serving as with proper road markings, but minor roads
something of a hub. They are also a common are often in a poor state of repair. Take care on
form of transport in Jordan. desert roads, where drifting sand can put the
Nesher car into a spin if hit at speed.
∑ neshertours.co.il
Parking
Driving In city centres, on-street parking can be very
difficult to find, especially if you don’t have a
Accident rates in Israel have fallen precipitously local parking sticker, and parking rules, inscribed
thanks to education campaigns and aggressive on yellow signs, are generally only in Hebrew.
enforcement. Despite this, it is not uncommon You are required to pay an hourly fee for parking
to experience aggressive and unpredictable on blue and white kerbsides (except at night and
driving from local motorists. While this should on Shabbat), which can generally be done via a
not put you off driving in the region, you do cellphone app. Driving in Jerusalem and Tel Aviv
need to be cautious. is therefore best avoided unless essential.
Car Rental Rules of the Road
Having your own wheels makes it easy to You should drive on the right-hand side of the
explore beautiful rural areas and stay in lovely road throughout the region. Laws requiring that
village B&Bs. Most major international car rental cars stop for pedestrians crossing the street are
companies have offices in Israel, including at strenuously enforced. At signals, left turns are
Ben-Gurion Airport, though local companies permitted only when you have a green arrow;
such as Eldan sometimes offer better rates. right turns on red are not allowed.
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The drink driving limit in Israel is a BAC (blood the whole length of the country – offers routes
alcohol content) of 50mg of alcohol per 100ml between Mitzpe Ramon and Eilat. Bikes can be
of blood; in Jordan it is zero. rented at Timna Park (p225).
Children in private cars must ride in backward- Tel Aviv-Jaffa has an extensive network of
facing car seats until age one (recommended bike paths that run down the middle of the
until age two), be strapped into car seats until main boulevards, along the seafront promenade
age three and sit on booster seats until age and on the banks of the Yarkon River. There are
eight (recommended until age ten). several hire companies from which you can rent
Hire cars come equipped with a fluorescent bikes, including Tel-O-Fun, and some hotels and
vest and warning triangle. In the event of a hostels offer free bikes to their guests.
breakdown, put on the vest before getting out Jerusalem is hilly and has narrow streets so
of the car and position the triangle so that it the city can be challenging to cycle around –
warns oncoming cars. caution is advised. Bike Jerusalem offers rental
and bike tours.
Cycling Aviv Hostel
§ (04) 671 2273
If you don’t mind hills, the best regions for Bike Jerusalem
cycling are the Galilee and Golan Heights. The ∑ bikejerusalem.com
varied scenery is lovely to cycle through, and the Israel National Bike Trail
altitude helps to moderate the extreme heat ∑ ibt.org.il
of summer. In Tiberias, Aviv Hostel rents out Tel-O-Fun
bicycles to ride all the way around the Sea of ∑ tel-o-fun.co.il
Galilee (65 km/40 miles), mostly on a dedicated
cycling path – a full circuit of the lake can be Bicycle Safety
made in just one day. Be very careful when cycling on intercity roads
The Negev is also popular for cycling, with as Israeli drivers are not always alert or careful.
off-road biking taking you through spectacular Temperatures can be grueling, so from June to
desert scenery. The Israel National Bike Trail – August it is best to cycle long distances only in
a work in progress that will eventually extend the mornings.

ROAD JOURNEY PLANNER
Plotting the main driving
routes according to
journey time, this map Haifa Nazareth
is a handy reference for
travelling between Israel’s Tiberias
main towns and cities by
car. The times reflect the Tel Aviv
fastest routes available.
Tolls apply on Route 6.
Jerusalem
Dead Sea





Jerusalem to Tel Aviv 1 hr
Jerusalem to the Dead Sea 1 hr 30 mins
Jerusalem to Eilat 4 hrs
Jerusalem to Tiberias
Eilat (Route 6) 2 hrs
Tel Aviv to Haifa 1 hr
Tel Aviv to Eilat 4 hrs
Tel Aviv to Nazareth 1 hr 30 mins
Dead Sea to Eilat 2 hrs 30 mins

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PRACTICAL
INFORMATION





NEED TO KNOW Practical Information all the essential advice and information you will need during your stay.
A little local know-how goes a long way in the Holy Land. Here you will find


Personal Security
AT A GLANCE
Violence against tourists and pilgrims is very
EMERGENCY NUMBERS
rare in Israel, the Palestinian Territories and
ISRAEL AND THE
JORDAN
Jordan. However, the political and security
PALESTINIAN
GENERAL
situation in the region is volatile, so keep an
TERRITORIES
EMERGENCY
and steer clear of demonstrations. Among the
Police
most sensitive areas are the Temple Mount
Ambulance 101
(Al-Haram ash-Sharif) and Damascus Gate in
102
Fire 100 911 eye on the local news, stay alert on the streets
Jerusalem, Hebron and Israeli checkpoints in
the West Bank; the most tense time of the week
is Friday after midday Muslim prayers. Should
you be unlucky enough to come across a distur-
TIME ZONE bance in the streets, move away from the scene
IST/IDT (2 or 3 hours quickly, and make it clear that you are a foreign
ahead of GMT): tourist. Do not drive in ultra-Orthodox areas on
Israel Daylight Time Shabbat or you risk having stones thrown at
runs from the Friday your vehicle.
before the last Sunday In Israel, you may have to undergo security
in March to the last checks upon entering hotels, cinemas and malls.
Sunday in October. At the central bus stations in Jerusalem and Tel
Aviv, bags are searched or scanned. Never leave
your luggage unattended in public places or the
bomb squad may be summoned. Do not accept
TAP WATER packages from anyone asking you to carry
Israel’s tap water, something for them.
much of it desalinated Thefts, muggings and other violent
seawater, is safe to opportunistic crimes are rare, but watch your
drink. In the Palestinian
Territories and Jordan belongings at the beach. If you lose something,
some tap water it is always worth going back to the place where
is potable but it’s the item was last seen. Avoid leaving valuable
advisable to purchase objects in full view in your hotel room. Do not
bottled water. leave any items of value inside a car, particularly
in the Negev. In the event of theft, contact the
police and ask for a copy of the report; you will
have to present this to your insurance company
TIPPING when you make your claim.
Both Israel and Jordan have special tourist
Waiter 10–15 per cent police who speak English in areas with lots of
foreign visitors.
10–20 ILS In Israel and the Palestinian Territories, lone
Housekeeping
per night women are sometimes subjected to verbal
20 ILS per group harassment from local males. This problem is
Guide most acute in East Jerusalem and in the Old City
member per day
and surrounding areas, such as the Mount of
Taxi Driver Not expected Olives. In these areas, women should not walk
alone in quiet or secluded areas after dark.
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In tourist areas of Jordan, lone women may Smoking, Alcohol and Drugs
receive unwanted attention from men. Politely
and firmly refuse any inappropriate suggestions; In Israel smoking is illegal on public transport
the tourist police are never far away should and in shops, restaurants and bars (except
someone prove persistent. in completely separate, specially designated
areas). In the West Bank and Jordan, however,
LGBT+ Safety laws and enforcement are weak so cigarettes
and nargilehs (water pipes) are ubiquitous in
Tel Aviv is a hugely popular gay destination, with restaurants and pubs.
a city-sponsored Pride Parade each June and The drinking age in Israel is 18 and alcohol
many gay-friendly events, clubs and restaurants. is widely available throughout the country,
For local listings, consult Gay TLVGuide and Gay except in Muslim areas. In the Palestinian
Tel Aviv. The scene in Jerusalem is much smaller, Territories, alcohol is generally available in
and conservative religious attitudes in the city places with a Christian population. In Jordan,
mean same-sex couples can face hostility in alcohol is served in upscale hotels and in a
public. However, the city still boasts a solid limited number of bars and nightclubs. Drink
LGBT community and holds an annual gay pride driving limits (p273) are strictly enforced
parade. The Jerusalem Open House of Pride throughout the region.
and Tolerance provides support for the gay All illicit drugs, including cannabis, are illegal
and lesbian community. in Israel, the Palestinian Territories and Jordan,
In Palestinian areas and Jordan, homosexuality and punishments for trafficking can be harsh.
is not tolerated. Circumspect behaviour is Israel decriminalized the use of cannabis in 2017
strongly advised. but fines can still be imposed.
Gay Tel Aviv
∑ travelgay.com ID
Gay TLVGuide
∑ gaytelavivguide.com Israeli law requires that all persons over the
Jerusalem Open House of Pride and Tolerance age of 16 – both tourists and Israelis – carry ID
∑ joh.org.il with them at all times. A passport (including
your entry card to Israel) is required to visit the
Health Palestinian Territories.

The standard of care in Israeli hospitals is similar WEBSITES AND APPS
to that of other Western countries. Jordan has
good private hospitals in Amman. Excellent Go Israel
pharmacies are easy to find in the region. If Israel’s Ministry of Tourism has a
you need a specific medicine, it is wise to travel plethora of helpful information and
with your own supplies; bring details so that advice at www.goisrael.com.
a pharmacist can, if necessary, find a local Israel Nature and Parks Authority
equivalent. The Jerusalem Post lists pharmacies For details on Israel’s national parks and
in Israel that stay open late and on Shabbat and nature reserves, visit www.parks.org.il.
other holidays. This Week in Palestine
To reduce the chances of diarrhoea, avoid For information on concerts, festivals
food that has obviously been left standing for and exhibitions being held in the
some time. In Jordan it is also sensible to avoid Palestinian Territories, check out
raw vegetables and drinks with ice. thisweekinpalestine.com.
Drinking large quantities of water is essential Jordan Tourism Board
to avoid heat stroke and dehydration, which For useful information on visiting
can be severe in the region’s high summer Petra and the rest of Jordan, see
temperatures. Low humidity causes your body www.visitjordan.com.
to lose liquids quickly, so drink even if you don’t
feel thirsty, and wear a hat.

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Local Customs service issues its own stamps but can be slow.
In Jordan, posting your letters at a five-star hotel
Political disagreements regarding the or a main post office, rather than at a post box
Palestinian-Israeli conflict can produce strong on the street, can help to speed things up.
emotions, so the wisest course of action is Israel Post
generally to listen and ask questions rather ∑ israelpost.co.il
than express strident opinions. Public displays
of affection are taboo in Arab areas; Arabic Taxes and Refunds
couples are rarely seen even holding hands.
NEED TO KNOW Practical Information and border crossings, is prohibited. arrange for you to get a partial VAT (sales tax)
Throughout the region, photography at sen-
For purchases in Israel of over 400 ILS, shops
with a “tax refund” sticker in the window can
sitive locations, such as military installations
reimbursement when you leave the country.
Visiting Holy Sites
Tourists are exempt from paying VAT (17 per
cent) on their hotel bills – show your passport
In secular Jewish areas of Israel, visitors can dress (including your entry card).
pretty much as they would in any warm Western
Discount Cards
country. However, Orthodox, ultra-Orthodox,
Muslim and Druze Israelis – especially women –
The Israel Nature and Parks Authority sells
wear much more conservative clothing, and
visitors to holy sites (synagogues, churches,
or an unlimited number of historical and natural
mosques and the Baha’i Gardens) and ultra-
sites (78–150 ILS).
Orthodox areas such as Jerusalem’s Mea
If you’re planning to visit multiple sites in
Shearim should wear similarly modest dress. two-week passes that cover visits to three, six
For men, that means long trousers and sleeves, Jordan, you can save money by purchasing a
while women should cover their shoulders, Jordan Pass before you travel. The cost includes
arms (past the elbow) and legs (past the knee). not just the price of your visa, but entry to most
At Muslim sites women may be asked to cover tourist sites in Jordan, including Jerash, Wadi
their hair with a scarf, while at Jewish sites Rum and, depending on which option you pick,
women may be asked to wear a skirt (rather up to three days entry to Petra.
than trousers). Cloaks may be provided at Israel Nature and Parks Authority
some sites for visitors who are deemed to be ∑ parks.org.il
immodestly dressed. Remove your shoes before Jordan Pass
entering a mosque. In churches, men should ∑ jordanpass.jo
take off their hats, while in synagogues men
should put on head covering (any hat is fine). STAYING INFORMED
Mobile Phones and Wi-Fi Events in the region can move quickly so
it’s a good idea to stay abreast of the news
Foreign mobile phones generally work in Israel during your visit. Israeli cable and satellite
but roaming charges can be very high, so it TV provides access to news broadcasts
may make sense to buy a local pay-as-you-go from around the world, while the Israel
SIM card upon arrival. They are available from Broadcasting Corporation has news
service providers such as Pelephone, Cellcom programmes in English, French, Spanish
and Partner; bring your passport when pur- and other languages, and broadcasts on
chasing one. Israeli networks cover parts of the FM frequencies and the internet. Israel’s
Palestinian Territories near Israeli settlements. left-of-centre newspaper Haaretz publishes
In Jordan, pay-as-you-go SIM cards are also an a daily (Sunday to Friday) print version
affordable option. in English. The right-of-centre Jerusalem
In Israel, free public Wi-Fi is widely available, Post is published daily (except Saturday)
including in cafés and restaurants, on many and has cultural supplements and enter-
buses and trains, and in public spaces all over tainment listings on Friday. Online, the
Tel Aviv. In the Palestinian Territories and Jordan, Times of Israel (www.timesofisrael.com)
Wi-Fi can be found at cafés, restaurants and provides news on Israel and the Middle East
accommodation in cities. in English and French; +972 (www.972mag.
com) offers a left-wing perspective; and
Post Ynet (www.ynetnews.com) has articles
translated from Hebrew. In Jordan, keep an
Using Israel Post to send letters or documents eye out for the Jordan Times.
is straightforward but parcels require security
inspections. The Palestinian Authority’s postal
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EW Need to Know template v1.2 – 13th August 2018
Fonts: Aptifer Sans LT Pro, Posterama Text, Soho
Gothic Pro, Soho Pro

INDEX



Page numbers in bold refer to Architecture Beaches (cont.)
main entries Bauhaus Center (Tel Aviv) 176 Gordon Beach (Tel Aviv)
Bauhaus in Haifa 193 31, 179
A Jewish Quarter Hilton Beach (Tel Aviv) 179
Jerusalem Beach (Tel Aviv) 179
(Jerusalem) 100
Tel Aviv’s Bauhaus Metzitzim Beach (Tel Aviv) 179
Aaron’s Tomb (Petra) 251 architecture 175 North Beach (Eilat) 220
Abu Ghosh 165 Ariel Centre for Jerusalem in Tel Aviv Beachfront 178–9
Acadia Beach (Herzliya the First Temple Period Be’er Sheva 222
Pituah) 31 (Jerusalem) 100 Beit Alpha 208–9
Accommodation see Hotels Armenian Quarter and Mount Beit Hatfutsot (Tel Aviv) 182
Agrippas Street (Jerusalem) 150 Zion (Jerusalem) 121–7 Beit She’an 29, 204–5
Airports 271 map 122–3 Beit She’arim 210
Air travel 270–71 Armenians 125 Beit Yannai Beach 31
Ajlun 262 ceramics 33, 124 Belvoir Castle 208
Akko 29, 196–7 Art see Museums and galleries Ben Daviv, Zadok 173
map 197 Artists’ Quarter (Tel Aviv) 185 Ben-Gurion, David 52–3
restaurants 197 Austrian Hospice (Jerusalem) 84 Ben-Gurion House
Alcohol 275 Avdat National Park 222–3 (Tel Aviv) 177
Alexander Hospice (Jerusalem) Sde Boker 222
114, 119 B Ben-Gurion Airport 270, 271
Ambulances 274 Ben-Gurion Boulevard
American Colony Hotel Bab el-Hadid Street (Tel Aviv) 177
(Jerusalem) 148, 152 (Jerusalem) 85 Ben Yehuda Street (Jerusalem)
Amman 254–7 Baha’i faith 142–3, 151
hotels 254 pilgrimages 42 Bethlehem 230–33
map 255 Shrine of the Bab (Haifa) and the Crimean War 233
restaurants 257 42, 192 map 231
Ancient bathhouse Baha’i Gardens (Akko) 196 Bialik, Haim Nahman
(Nazareth) 198 Baha’i Gardens (Haifa) 13, 42, 192 Bialik House (Tel Aviv) 181
Ancient Galilee Boat 201 Banias Nature Reserve 28 Bialik Street (Tel Aviv) 181
Apple Core (Oldenburg/van Banksy 231 Bible 58
Bruggen) 156 Baptism Bible Lands Museum
Apps 275 Jordan River 43 (Jerusalem) 161
Aqaba 264–5 Qasr el-Yehud 235 Biblical Zoo (Jerusalem) 147, 162
Aquarium, Aqaba Marine Baraka Destinations 262 Birds 35
Science Station 265 Bargaining 81 Hula Nature Reserve 208
Arab cuisine 41 Bars International Birding and
Arab-Israeli wars 52–4 West Bank 239 Research Center Eilat 221
Arafat, Yasser Basilica of the Annunciation Bloomfield Science Museum
Yasser Arafat Museum (Nazareth) 198–9 (Jerusalem) 147
(Ramallah) 237 Batei Makhase Square Boats
Archaeological sites 38–9 (Jerusalem) 98–9 Ancient Galilee Boat 201
Avdat National Park 222–3 Bathhouses Clandestine Immigration and
Hecht Museum (Haifa) 194 Ancient bathhouse Naval Museum (Haifa) 194
Herodion 238 (Nazareth) 198 Breweries
Israel Museum (Jerusalem) 159 Hammam al-Pasha (Akko) 196 West Bank 239
Jerusalem Archaeological Bauhaus Broad Wall (Jerusalem) 96
Park 94–5 Bauhaus Center (Tel Aviv) 176 Burckhardt, Johann Ludwig 249
Magdala 200 Haifa 193 Burnt House (Jerusalem) 100
Petra 244–51 Tel Aviv 175 Buses 271
Tel Be’er Sheva 222 Bazaars see Markets
Tel Jericho 235 Beaches 12, 28, 31 C
Timna Park 225 Acadia Beach (Herzliya
Upper Galilee Museum of Pituah) 31 Caesarea 30, 190–91
Prehistory 211 Beit Yannai Beach 31 Cafés 37
Western Wall (Jerusalem) Dolphin Reef 221 Muslim Quarter (Jerusalem) 82
90–93 Dor HaBonim Beach 31 Canaanite Tunnel (Jerusalem) 133
see also Romans Frishman Beach (Tel Aviv) 179 Canyon climbing 34

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Capernaum 202 Christianity 58–9, 115 Citadel (Amman) 254–5
Cardo (Jerusalem) 96, 97 baptism in the Jordan 43 Citadel (Jerusalem) 102, 112–13
Carmel Center (Haifa) 192–3 Via Dolorosa (Jerusalem) City Hall complex
Carmelite Monastery of 10, 76–7, 84 (Jerusalem) 151
St Elijah 194
see also Cathedrals; Chapels;
Index Carmel Market (Tel Aviv) 182 Christian Quarter (Jerusalem) City of David (Jerusalem) 132–3
Churches; Monasteries
Clandestine Immigration and
Cars 272–3
Naval Museum (Haifa) 194
car rental 272 105–19 Clore, Charles 178
Royal Automobile Museum map 106–7 Closures 269
(Amman) 257 walk 118–19 Convent of the Sisters of Zion
speed limits 270 Christian Quarter Road (Jerusalem) 79, 85
Castles see Fortresses (Jerusalem) 114–15, 118 Coral reefs
Cathedrals Christ’s Tomb (Jerusalem) 111 Coral Beach Nature
Cathedral of the Holy Trinity Churches 276 Reserve 220–21
(Jerusalem) 144–5, 151 Basilica of the Annunciation Red Sea 31, 221
St George’s Cathedral (Nazareth) 198–9 Cotton Merchants’ Market
(Jerusalem) 149, 152 Church of All Nations (Jerusalem) 80
St James’s Cathedral (Jerusalem) 134–5 Crafts 32–3
(Jerusalem) 124 Church of St John the Baptist Crimean War, Bethlehem and 233
see also Churches (Jerusalem) 115, 118 Crusaders 39, 50
Caves Church of St Mary Magdalene Belvoir Castle 208
Church of the Nativity (Jerusalem) 135 Kerak Castle 263
(Bethlehem) 232–3 Church of the Dormition Knights Hall (Akko) 196
Solomon’s Quarries (Jerusalem) 126 St Mary of the Germans
(Zedekiah’s Cave, Church of the Holy Sepulchre (Jerusalem) 101
Jerusalem) 146 (Jerusalem) 108–11, 119 Culture 44–5
Cemeteries Church of the Nativity Currency 268, 269
Jerusalem War Cemetery 134 (Bethlehem) 232–3 Customs information 269
Jewish Cemeteries Church of the Pater Noster Cycling 273
(Jerusalem) 138 (Jerusalem) 139
Central Souk (Jerusalem) 81 Ethiopian Church D
Centre International Marie (Jerusalem) 151
de Nazareth 199 Greek Orthodox Church Daliyat al-Karmal (Mount
Ceramics, Armenian 33, 124 of the Annunciation Carmel) 195
Chagall, Marc (Nazareth) 198 Damascus Gate (Jerusalem)
Chagall Stained Glass at Lutheran Church of the 82, 102, 152
Hadassah Hospital Redeemer (Jerusalem) Dance 44
(Ein Kerem) 165 114, 119 Suzanne Dellal Center
Chain Street (Jerusalem) 80–81 Petra Church 249 (Tel Aviv) 180
Chapels Russian Church of the Dan Nature Reserve 209
Chapel of Adam Ascension (Jerusalem) 139 Darat al-Funun (Amman) 257
(Jerusalem) 111 St Anne’s Church David, King 39
Chapel of St Helena (Jerusalem) 82–3 City of David
(Jerusalem) 111 St Catherine’s Church (Jerusalem) 132–3
Chapel of the Finding of the (Bethlehem) 230 King David’s Tomb
Cross (Jerusalem) 111 St George’s Church (Jerusalem) 127
Dominus Flevit Sanctuary (Madaba) 260–61 David Street (Jerusalem) 118
(Jerusalem) 135 St Mary of the Germans Dead Sea and Negev Desert
Syrian Chapel (Jerusalem) 111 (Jerusalem) 101 18, 213–25
see also Churches St Mark’s Church craters in the Negev
Charles Clore Park (Tel Aviv) 178 (Jerusalem) 126–7 Desert 224
Children 28–9 St Michael’s Church Dead Sea 10, 29, 30, 218–19
Israel Children’s Museum (Tel Aviv) 185 hotels 219
(Tel Aviv) 176 St Peter in Gallicantu maps 214–15, 219
Jerusalem for children 147 (Jerusalem) 125 Dead Sea Scrolls 159
Tel Aviv 176 see also Cathedrals; Chapels; Qumran 218
Christ see Jesus Monasteries Shrine of the Book 157, 159
Christian Information Center Cistern (Jerusalem) 133 Degania Alef 203
(Jerusalem) 116 Citadel (Akko) 197 Discount cards 276

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Diving 31 Former Barclays Bank Haifa (cont.)
Eilat 221 (Jerusalem) 151 map 193
Jordan 265 Fortresses restaurants 195
Dizengoff Centre (Tel Aviv) 176 Belvoir Castle 208 Hall of the Last Supper
Dizengoff, Meir Citadel (Amman) 254–5 (Jerusalem) 127
Meir Garden (Tel Aviv) 182–3 Citadel (Jerusalem) 112–13 Hamat Gader 210
Dizengoff Street (Tel Aviv) 176 Kerak Castle 263 Hammam al-Pasha (Akko) 196
Doctors 275 Mameluke Fort (Aqaba) 265 Ha-Neviim Street (Jerusalem)
Dolphin Reef 221 Masada 216–17 144, 151
Dome of the Chain (Jerusalem) 73 Qalat ar-Rabad (Ajlun) 262 Hanging Trail (Banias Nature
Dome of the Rock (Jerusalem) Shobak 264 Reserve) 28
11, 71, 74–5 Frishman Beach (Tel Aviv) 179 Ha-Pisga garden (Tel Aviv) 184
Dominus Flevit Sanctuary Ha-Pisga open-air amphitheatre
(Jerusalem) 135 G (Tel Aviv) 184
Dor HaBonim Beach 31 Ha-Simta Theatre (Tel Aviv) 185
Drinks see Food and drink Galilee see Mediterranean Coast HaTachana (Tel Aviv) 180
Driving see Cars and Galilee; Sea of Galilee Health care 275
Drugs 275 Galleries see Museums and Health insurance 269
Druzes galleries Hebron 238–9
Daliyat al-Karmal Gan Ha’ir (Tel Aviv) 176 Hecht Museum (Haifa) 194
(Mount Carmel) 195 Garden of Gethsemane Herod the Great
Dubnov Garden (Tel Aviv) 176–7 (Jerusalem) 134 Caesarea 190
Dung Gate (Jerusalem) 101, 103 Gardens see Parks and gardens Citadel (Jerusalem) 112–13
Garden Tomb (Jerusalem) Hebron 239
E Gethsemane, Garden of Herodion 238
147, 152
Herod’s Gate (Jerusalem) 82
Ecce Homo Arch (Jerusalem) (Jerusalem) 134 Jericho 234
78–9, 85 Golan Heights 207 Masada 216
Eilat 220–21 Golden Gate (Jerusalem) 73 Temple Mount (Jerusalem) 70
diving and snorkelling 221 Golgotha (Jerusalem) 111 Western Wall (Jerusalem) 90
map 221 Goor, Ilana Herodion 238
Ein Bokek 30, 218–19 Woman Against the Wind, A Herod’s Gate (Jerusalem)
Ein Gedi Nature Reserve 219 178–9 82, 103, 153
Ein Kerem 164 Gordon Beach (Tel Aviv) 31, 179 Herzliya Pituah 31
El-Aqsa Mosque (Jerusalem) Great Temple (Petra) 249 Herzl, Theodor 164
71, 73 Greek Orthodox Church 115 Herzl Museum (Jerusalem) 164
Electricity supply 268 Greek Orthodox Church Hezekiah’s Tunnel (Jerusalem)
Elijah’s Cave (Mount Carmel) 195 of the Annunciation 133, 147
El-Takiya (Jerusalem) 84 (Nazareth) 198 High Place of Sacrifice (Petra) 250
Emergency numbers 274 Museum of the Greek Hiking
Eretz Israel Museum (Tel Aviv) 183 Orthodox Patriarchate Jordan Trail 263
Ethiopian Church (Jerusalem) 151 (Jerusalem) 116 Hilton Beach (Tel Aviv) 179
Ethiopian Monastery Green Line 53 Historic buildings
(Jerusalem) 111 Gulbenkian Library Alexander Hospice
Eucharist 59 (Jerusalem) 124–5 (Jerusalem) 114, 119
Events 46–7 Gutman, Nahum Bialik House (Tel Aviv) 181
Nahum Gutman Museum Hammam al-Pasha (Akko) 196
F (Tel Aviv) 180 Hisham’s Palace (Jericho) 235
House of Simon the Tanner
Family adventures 28–9 H (Tel Aviv) 185
Feingold House (Jerusalem) 151 Knights Hall (Akko) 196
Festivals and events 46–7 Hadar HaCarmel (Haifa) 195 Lady Tunshuq’s Palace
Fire services 274 Hadassah Hospital (Jerusalem) 79, 84
First Station (Jerusalem) 149 (Ein Kerem) 165 Ticho House (Jerusalem)
Five Pillars of Islam 61 Hai Bar Yotvata Wildlife 144, 151
Folklore Museum (Amman) 256 Reserve 224 YMCA (Jerusalem) 142
Food and drink 40–41 Haifa 192–5 see also Castles; Cathedrals;
Tel Aviv 11 Bauhaus in 193 Chapels; Churches;
see also Restaurants itinerary 26–7 Monasteries

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History 48–55 J Jews
Sea of Galilee 201 Israel Museum (Jerusalem) 158
Holidays, public 269 Jabotinsky, Ze’ev 183 Jewish Cemeteries
Holy sites, visiting 276 Jaffa Gate (Jerusalem) (Jerusalem) 138
102, 116–17
Index Hospitals 269, 275 Jaffa see Tel Aviv Judaism 56–7
Hotels
klezmer music 45
Old Yishuv Court Museum
American Colony Hotel
Jebel Amud rock map 252
(Jerusalem) 148, 152 Jebel Attuf 250 (Jerusalem) 99
Amman 254 Jerash 258–9 ritual objects 32
Dead Sea and Negev Jericho 38, 234–5 Temple Mount
Desert 219 Jerusalem 16, 63–153 (Jerusalem) 70–73
Jerusalem 143 Armenian Quarter and Ultra-Orthodox Jews 99
King David Hotel Mount Zion 121–7 Yad Vashem (Jerusalem) 162
(Jerusalem) 142 Beyond the centre 155–65 Zionism 51
Mediterranean Coast and Christian Quarter 105–19 see also Synagogues
Galilee 209, 225 City Centre 139–53 Jordan Museum (Amman) 255
Tel Aviv 177 hotels 143 Jordan River 35
Hot springs itinerary 22–3 baptism 43
Hamat Gader 210 Jewish Quarter 87–103 Qasr el-Yehud 235
House of Simon the Tanner map 64–5 Jordan see Petra and
(Tel Aviv) 185 Mount of Olives and City Western Jordan
Hula Nature Reserve 208 of David 129–37 Jordan Trail 263
Hurva Square (Jerusalem) 96–7 Muslim Quarter 67–85 Judaism 56–7
Hurva Synagogue (Jerusalem) 99 nightlife 37 Ultra-Orthodox Jews 99
Hussein, King of Jordan 74, 241, shopping 163 Western Wall (Jerusalem)
256, 257 Jerusalem Archaeological 11, 90–93
Park 94–5 see also Jews; Synagogues
I Jerusalem Beach (Tel Aviv) 179
Jerusalem City Centre 139–53
Icons 59 map 140–41 K
ID 275 restaurants 145 Kabbalah 13, 43
Ilana Goor Museum of Ethnic shopping 148 Safed 206
and Applied Art (Tel Aviv) 185 walks 150–53 Kafr Cana 210
Insurance 269 Jerusalem Light Rail (JLR) 271 Kayaking 35
International Birding and Jerusalem War Cemetery 134 Kedumim Square (Tel Aviv) 185
Research Center Eilat 221 Jesus 58 Kerak 263
Internet access 276 Christ’s Tomb (Jerusalem) 111 Khans (Akko) 197
Islam 60–61 Church of the Nativity Kibbutzim
and the Crusades 50 (Bethlehem) 232–3 Degania Alef 203
LA Mayer Museum of Islamic Dominus Flevit Sanctuary Kibbutz Lotan 224–5
Art (Jerusalem) 160 (Jerusalem) 135 Sde Boker 222
Ramadan 43 Galilee sites 210 Kidron Valley (Jerusalem) 134
Temple Mount (Jerusalem) Garden of Gethsemane King Abdullah Mosque
70–75 (Jerusalem) 134 (Amman) 256
see also Mosques Garden Tomb (Jerusalem) King David Hotel (Jerusalem) 142
Israel Children’s Museum 147, 152 King David’s Tomb
(Tel Aviv) 176 Golgotha (Jerusalem) 111 (Jerusalem) 127
Israelites 39 In the footsteps of Jesus 38 Kings’ Tombs (Jerusalem) 148
Israel Museum (Jerusalem) Sea of Galilee 200–203 Klezmer music 45
13, 147, 156–9 Via Dolorosa (Jerusalem) Knesset (Jerusalem) 161
Italian Synagogue 10, 76–7, 84 Knights Hall (Akko) 196
(Jerusalem) 143 “Jesus Boat” 201 Knights Templar
Itineraries Jewellery 32 Kerak Castle 263
3 days in Tel Aviv 21 Jewish Quarter (Jerusalem) Templars’ Tunnel (Akko)
6 days in the Dead Sea, 87–103 196–7
Negev and Petra 24–5 architecture 100 Temple Mount (Jerusalem)
6 days in Jerusalem 22–3 map 88–9 71, 73
7 days in Haifa and shopping 97 Korazim National Park 202
the Galilee 26–7 walk 102–3 Kursi National Park 202–3

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L Maps (cont.) Monasteries
Jerusalem: Muslim Quarter
Carmelite Monastery
Lady Tunshuq’s Palace 68–9, 84–5 of St Elijah 194
(Jerusalem) 79, 84 Jerusalem: Old City Walls Ethiopian Monastery
LA Mayer Museum of Islamic Art 102–3 (Jerusalem) 111
(Jerusalem) 160 Jerusalem: Via Dolorosa 76–7 Mar Saba Monastery 236
Language 268, 269 Jerusalem: West Jerusalem Monastery of St Nicholas
Lawrence of Arabia 252, 265 150–51 (Tel Aviv) 185
Levantine Arab cuisine 41 journey planner 273 Monastery of St Peter
LGBT+ Madaba Mosaic Map 260–61 (Tel Aviv) 185
safety 275 Mediterranean Coast and Monastery of the Cross
Tel Aviv Pride 37 Galilee 188–9 (Jerusalem) 160
Libraries Nazareth 199 Monastery of the Flagellation
Gulbenkian Library Petra and Western (Jerusalem) 78, 85
(Jerusalem) 124–5 Jordan 242–3 Monastery of the Temptation
Lichtenstein, Roy 172–3 Sea of Galilee 20 (Jericho) 235
Lions’ Gate (Jerusalem) 83, 103 Tel Aviv 170–71 Petra 250
Little Petra 251 Tel Aviv: Old Jaffa 184–5 St Etienne Monastery
Local customs 276 West Bank 228–9 (Jerusalem) 146
Lutheran Church of the Markets St George’s Monastery 234
Redeemer (Jerusalem) Carmel Market (Tel Aviv) 182 Stella Maris (Mount
114, 119 Central Souk (Jerusalem) 81 Carmel) 193
Cotton Merchants’ Market Money 268, 269
M Mahane Yehuda (Jerusalem) Monuments
(Jerusalem) 80
Yad Vashem (Jerusalem) 162
Madaba mosaics 260–61 150, 163 Mosaics, Madaba 260–61
Madrasas (Jerusalem) 73 Souk (Akko) 197 Moses
Magdala 200 Souk el-Dabbagha Nebi Musa 236
Mahane Yehuda (Jerusalem) (Jerusalem) 119 Mosques 60, 276
150, 163 Souk (Nazareth) 199 Dome of the Rock (Jerusalem)
Mahmoudiya Mosque Mar Saba Monastery 236 11, 71, 74–5
(Tel Aviv) 184 Mary, Virgin El-Aqsa Mosque (Jerusalem)
Makhtesh Ramon 34, 224 Basilica of the Annunciation 71, 73
Maps (Nazareth) 198–9 King Abdullah Mosque
Akko 197 Milk Grotto (Bethlehem) 230 (Amman) 256
Amman 255 Tomb of the Virgin Mary Mahmoudiya Mosque
Bethlehem 231 (Jerusalem) 136 (Tel Aviv) 184
Dead Sea 219 Mary Magdalene 200 Mosque of El-Jazzar
Dead Sea and Negev Masada 216–17 (Akko) 197
Desert 214–15 Mea She’arim (Jerusalem) Mosque of Omar
Eilat 221 146–7 (Bethlehem) 230
Europe and the Mediterranean Coast and Mosque of the Ascension
Mediterranean region 15 Galilee 17, 30–31, 187–211 (Jerusalem) 138–9
Haifa 193 hotels 209, 225 Sea Mosque (Tel Aviv) 184
Jerusalem 64–5 itinerary 26–7 Tomb of the Patriarchs
Jerusalem: Armenian Quarter map 188–9 (Hebron) 239
and Mount Zion 122–3 restaurants 197, 198, 207 White Mosque
Jerusalem: Beyond the vineyards 223 (Nazareth) 199
centre 155 see also Beaches Motifs, pagan 211
Jerusalem: Christian Quarter Megiddo 39, 206 Mount Carmel 193, 195
106–7, 118–19 Meir Garden (Tel Aviv) 182–3 Mount Herzl (Jerusalem) 164
Jerusalem City Centre 140–41 Metzitzim Beach (Tel Aviv) 179 Mount Nebo 262–3
Jerusalem: East Jerusalem Milk Grotto (Bethlehem) 230 Mount of Olives and City of
152–3 Mitzpe Ramon 223 David (Jerusalem) 129–37
Jerusalem, Israel and the Mobile phones 276 map 130–31
Palestinian Territories 14–15 Modern Museum (Petra) 249 Mount of the Beatitudes
Jerusalem: Jewish Quarter 88–9 Modigliani, Amedeo 12, 202, 210
Jerusalem: Mount of Olives Portrait of Jeanne Hebuterne, Mount Scopus (Jerusalem) 134
and City of David 130–31 Seated 158 Mount Tabor 209, 210

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Mount Zion (Jerusalem) see Museums (cont.) Nature reserves (cont.)
Armenian Quarter and Old Yishuv Court Museum Ein Gedi 219
Mount Zion (Jerusalem) 99 Hai Bar Yotvata Wildlife
Muhammad, Prophet 60 Palestinian Museum 238 Reserve 224
Hula 208
Index Muristan (Jerusalem) 118 Rockefeller Museum Nazareth 198–9, 210
Museums and galleries
(Jerusalem) 149, 153
A M Qattan Foundation
map 199
Rokach House Museum
(Ramallah) 237 (Tel Aviv) 180 restaurants 198
Archaeological Museum Royal Automobile Museum Nebi Musa 236
(Aqaba) 265 (Amman) 257 Negev Desert see Dead Sea
Ariel Centre for Jerusalem in Rubin Museum (Tel Aviv) 181 and Negev Desert
the First Temple Period Schindler’s Tomb Neve Tzedek (Tel Aviv) 180
(Jerusalem) 100 (Jerusalem) 126 New Gate (Jerusalem) 102
Bauhaus Center (Tel Aviv) 176 Tel Aviv Museum of Art 172–3 Nightlife 36–7
Beit HaGefen (Haifa) 193 Tikotin Museum of Japanese North Beach (Eilat) 220
Beit Hatfutsot (Tel Aviv) 182 Art (Haifa) 192–3
Ben-Gurion House Tower of David Museum O
(Tel Aviv) 177 (Jerusalem) 113
Bible Lands Museum Underground Prisoners’ Old City 138
(Jerusalem) 161 Museum (Akko) 197 Oldenburg, Claes
Bloomfield Science Museum Underground Prisoners’ Apple Core 156
(Jerusalem) 147 Museum (Jerusalem) 145 Old Jaffa (Tel Aviv) 184–5
Burnt House (Jerusalem) 100 Upper Galilee Museum of Old Yishuv Court Museum
Clandestine Immigration and Prehistory 211 (Jerusalem) 99
Naval Museum (Haifa) 194 Wohl Archaeological Museum Omar ibn al-Khattab Square
Darat al-Funun (Amman) 257 (Jerusalem) 98 (Jerusalem) 117
Eretz Israel Museum Yad Vashem (Jerusalem) 162 Orient House (Jerusalem) 152
(Tel Aviv) 183 Yasser Arafat Museum Ottoman Empire 51
Folklore Museum (Ramallah) 237
(Amman) 256 Music 36, 44–5 P
Hecht Museum (Haifa) 194 Caesarea 191
Herzl Museum Muslim Quarter (Jerusalem) Pagan motifs 211
(Jerusalem) 164 67–85 Palestinian Museum 238
Ilana Goor Museum of cafés 82 Palestinian Pottery
Ethnic and Applied Art map 68–9 (Jerusalem) 152
(Tel Aviv) 185 restaurants 78 Palestinian Territories
Israel Children’s Museum walk 84–5 see West Bank
(Tel Aviv) 176 Muslims see Islam Parking 272–3
Israel Museum (Jerusalem) Parks and gardens
13, 147, 156–9 N Baha’i Gardens (Akko) 196
Jordan Museum (Amman) 255 Baha’i Gardens (Haifa)
LA Mayer Museum of Islamic Nabateans 39, 251 13, 42, 192
Art (Jerusalem) 160 Avdat National Park 222–3 Charles Clore Park (Tel Aviv) 178
Mané-Katz Museum (Haifa) 193 Petra 244–51 Dubnov Garden
Metzudat Ze’ev (Tel Aviv) 183 Nachalat Binyamin (Tel Aviv) 176–7
Modern Museum (Petra) 249 (Tel Aviv) 183 Garden of Gethsemane
Museum of Islamic Art Nakhalat Shiv’a (Jerusalem) (Jerusalem) 134
(Jerusalem) 73 142–3, 151 Meir Garden (Tel Aviv) 182–3
Museum of Palestinian Nakhla’ot (Jerusalem) 163 Passports 268, 275
Heritage (Bethlehem) 231 National parks Personal security 274–5
Museum of Popular Traditions Avdat 222–3 Petra and Western Jordan
(Amman) 256 Caesarea 190 10, 19, 241–65
Museum of the Greek Korazim 202 crafts 33
Orthodox Patriarchate Kursi 202–3 itinerary 24–5
(Jerusalem) 116 Nature reserves map 242–3
Museum on the Seam Banias 28 passports and visas 268
(Jerusalem) 147 Coral Beach 220–21 Petra 244–51
Nahum Gutman Museum Dan 209 Petra Church 249
(Tel Aviv) 180 Ein Avdat 222 Pharmacies 275

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Phones 276 Rokach, Shimon Service taxis 272
Pilgrims Rokach House Museum Shabbat closures 43
Baha’i 42 (Tel Aviv) 180 Sheinkin Street (Tel Aviv)
Via Dolorosa (Jerusalem) Romans 12, 38, 49 180–81
10, 76–7, 84 Ancient bathhouse Shepherdess, The
Playgrounds 29 (Nazareth) 198 (Van Gogh) 173
Police 274 Ancient Galilee Boat 201 Shobak 264
Pool of Siloam (Jerusalem) 133 Beit She’an 29, 204–5 Shopping
Portrait of Jeanne Hebuterne, Caesarea 30, 190–91 bargaining 81
Seated (Modigliani) 158 Hamat Gader 210 Jerusalem 97, 148, 163
Postal services 276 Jerash 258–9 Shabbat closures 43
Public holidays 269 Masada 216–17 taxes and refunds 276
Public transport 270, 271 Roman Cardo (Petra) 249 Tel Aviv 183
Puppets Roman Theatre (Amman) 255 see also Markets
Train Theater (Jerusalem) 147 Umm Qais 262 Shrine of the Bab (Haifa) 42, 192
Rosh HaNikra 31, 211 Shrine of the Book 157, 159
Q Rothschild Boulevard Smoking 275
Snorkelling
(Tel Aviv) 175
Qanatirs (Jerusalem) 73 Rotunda (Jerusalem) 111 Eilat 221
Qasr el-Bint el-Faroun (Petra) 249 Royal Automobile Museum Sodom 219
Qumran 218 (Amman) 257 Solomon’s Quarries
Qu’ran 60 Royal Quarter (Jerusalem) 133 (Jerusalem) 146
Royal Tombs (Petra) 247 Souk (Akko) 197
R Rubin, Reuven Souk (Nazareth) 199
Souk el-Dabbagha
Rubin Museum (Tel Aviv) 181
Rabbinic Judaism 56 Rules of the road 273 (Jerusalem) 119
Rabin Square (Tel Aviv) 176 Russian Compound Specific needs, travellers
Rachel’s Tomb (Bethlehem) 231 (Jerusalem) 144–5 with 269
Rafting 35 Russian Orthodox Church 114, 115 Speed limits 270
Railways see Train travel Church of St Mary Magdalene St Anne’s Church
Ramadan 43 (Jerusalem) 135 (Jerusalem) 82–3
Ramallah 237 in Jerusalem 139 Status Quo 110
Ramban Synagogue Russian Church of the St Catherine’s Church
(Jerusalem) 97 Ascension (Jerusalem) 139 (Bethlehem) 230
Red Sea Stella Maris (Mount Carmel) 193
coral reefs 31, 221 S St Etienne Monastery
diving 265, 221 (Jerusalem) 146
Eilat 220–21 Sacred traditions 42–3 St George’s Cathedral
Religion 42–3 Safed 42, 206 (Jerusalem) 149, 152
Christianity 58–9, 115 Safety St George’s Church (Madaba)
Islam 60–61 cycling 273 260–61
Judaism 56–7 LGBT+ 275 St George’s Monastery 234
religious holidays 269 personal security 274–5 St James’s Cathedral
Restaurants travel safety advice 269 (Jerusalem) 124
Akko 197 women 274–5 St Mark’s Church
Amman 257 Salah al-Din Street (Jerusalem) 126–7
Haifa 195 (Jerusalem) 153 St Mary of the Germans
Jerusalem: Beyond the Sarona (Tel Aviv) 176 (Jerusalem) 101
centre 165 Schindler’s Tomb (Jerusalem) 126 St Michael’s Church (Tel Aviv) 185
Jerusalem City Centre 145 Schmidt Girls’ College Storks’ Tower (Jerusalem) 103
Mediterranean Coast and (Jerusalem) 152 St Peter in Gallicantu
Galilee 197, 198, 207 Scuba diving (Jerusalem) 125
Muslim Quarter (Jerusalem) 78 Jordan 265 Suleyman the Magnificent,
Nazareth 198 Sde Boker 222 Sultan 51
Tel Aviv 181 Sea of Galilee 12, 200–203, 210 Citadel (Jerusalem) 112
see also Food and drink map 201 Dome of the Rock
Robinson’s Arch (Jerusalem) 94 Sea Mosque (Tel Aviv) 184 (Jerusalem) 74
Rockefeller Museum (Jerusalem) Sephardic Synagogues Lions’ Gate (Jerusalem) 83
149, 153 (Jerusalem) 99 Zion Gate (Jerusalem) 125

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Supreme Court (Jerusalem) 163 Tomb of Sextius Florentinus Walks (cont.)
Synagogues 276 (Petra) 251 Jerusalem: West Jerusalem
Beit Alpha 208–9 Tomb of the Virgin Mary 150–51
Hurva Synagogue (Jerusalem) 136 Jordan Trail 263
(Jerusalem) 99
Tel Aviv: Old Jaffa 184–5
Index Italian Synagogue Torah 57 Warren’s Shaft (Jerusalem) 133
Tower of David Museum
Water, drinking 274, 275
(Jerusalem) 143
(Jerusalem) 113
Magdala 200 Train Theater (Jerusalem) 147 Websites 275
Ramban Synagogue Train travel 271 West Bank 18, 227–39
(Jerusalem) 97 First Station (Jerusalem) 149 bars 239
Sephardic Synagogues Trams 271 crafts 33
(Jerusalem) 99 Travel 270–73 Israeli settlements 235
Synagogue of the West Bank 231 maps 14–15, 228–9
Kabbalists 13 Travel safety advice 269 nightlife 36
Tomb of the Patriarchs Treasury (Petra) 246 passports and visas 268
(Hebron) 239 Turkish baths travel 231
Syrian Chapel (Jerusalem) 111 Hammam al-Pasha (Akko) 196 Western Jordan see Petra and
Tzipori 210–11 Western Jordan
T U Western Wall (Jerusalem)
11, 90–93
Tabgha 200–201 White Mosque (Nazareth) 199
Tap water 274 Ultra-Orthodox Jews 99 Wi-Fi 276
Taxes 276 Umm Qais 262 Wild Jordan Centre (Amman) 257
Taxis 272 Underground Prisoners’ Wildlife
Tel Aviv 17, 169–85 Museum (Akko) 197 Underwater Observatory
Bauhaus architecture 175 Underwater Observatory Marine Park (Eilat) 220
beaches 31, 178–9 Marine Park (Eilat) 220 see also Aquariums; Birds;
for children 176 Upper Galilee Museum of National parks; Nature
food and drink 11 Prehistory 211 reserves; Zoos
hotels 177 Wines 40, 223
itinerary 21 V Wishing Bridge (Tel Aviv) 185
map 170–71 Wohl Archaeological Museum
nightlife 36–7 Vaccinations 269 (Jerusalem) 98
restaurants 181 Valley of Hinnom (Jerusalem) 126 Women
shopping 183 Van Bruggen, Cooske gender equality at the
walk 184–5 Apple Core 156 Western Wall 91
Tel Aviv Marina 179 Van Gogh, Vincent in Judaism 57
Tel Aviv Museum of Art 172–3 Shepherdess, The 173 safety 274–5
Tel Aviv Performing Arts Vegetarian food 41
Center 177 Via Dolorosa (Jerusalem) Y
Tel Aviv Port 176, 178 10, 76–7, 84
Tel Be’er Sheva 222 Vineyards Yad Vashem (Jerusalem) 162
Temenos Gate (Petra) 249 Mediterranean Coast and Yardenit Baptism Site 203
Templars’ Tunnel (Akko) 196–7 Galilee 223 Yarkon Park (Tel Aviv) 176
Temple Mount (Jerusalem) 70–75 Visas 268 YMCA (Jerusalem) 142
Temple of the Winged Lions
(Petra) 249 W Z
Theatre 44
Roman Theatre (Amman) 255 Wadi Nisnas (Haifa) 193 Zalatimo’s (Jerusalem) 119
Train Theater (Jerusalem) 147 Wadi Rum 35, 252–3 Zedekiah’s Cave (Jerusalem) 146
Tiberias 207 Walks Zichron Ya’akov 209
Ticho House (Jerusalem) 144, 151 Jerusalem: Christian Quarter Zion Gate (Jerusalem) 125
Tiferet Yisrael Street 118–19 Zionism 51
(Jerusalem) 98 Jerusalem: East Jerusalem The first kibbutz: Degania
Time zone 274 152–3 Alef 203
Timna Park 225 Jerusalem: Muslim Quarter Zoos
Timna Valley 35 84–5 Biblical Zoo (Jerusalem)
Tipping 274 Jerusalem: Old City Walls 147, 162
Toilets, Beit She’an 205 102–3 see also Aquariums; Wildlife

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PHRASE BOOK

Hebrew has an alphabet of 22 letters. As in Arabic, the vowels toilet sherutim
do not appear in the written language and there are several free, unoccupied panui
systems of transliteration. In this phrase book we have given free, no charge khinam
a simple phonetic transcription only. Bold type indicates the
syllable on which the stress falls. An apostrophe between two MAKING A TELEPHONE CALL
letters means that there is a break in the pronunciation. The I’d like to make a Haiti rotze/rotza lehitkasher
letters “kh” represent the sound “ch” as in Scottish “loch”, and long-distance call lekhutz lair/laaretz
“g” is hard as in “gate”. Where necessary, the masculine form is I’d like to make a Haiti rotze/rotza
given first, followed by the feminine. reversed-charge call lehitkasher govaina
I’ll call back later Etkasher meukhar yoter
IN AN EMERGENCY Can I leave a message? Efshar lehashir hoda’a?
Help! Hatzilu! Hold on Hamtin/hamtini (Tamtin/tamtini)
Tukhal/tukhli ledaber
Could you speak up a
Stop! Atzor! little, please? bekol ram yoter?
Call a doctor! Azminu rofe! local call sikha ironit
Call an ambulance! Azminu ambulans! international call sikha benleumit
Call the police! Tzaltzelu lamishtara!
Call the fire brigade! Tzaltzelu lemekhabei esh! SHOPPING
Where is the nearest Efo hatelefon hatziburi
telephone? hakhi karov? How much does it cost? Kama zeh oleh?
Where is the nearest Efo bet hakholim hakhi I would like… Haiti rotzeh/rotza…
hospital? karov? Do you have…? Yesh lakhem…?
I’m just looking Ani rak mistakel/mistakelet
COMMUNICATION ESSENTIALS Do you take credit cards? Atem mekablim kartisei ashrai?
Yes Ken Do you take travellers’ Atem mekablim travellers’
No Lo cheques? cheques?
Please Bevakasha What time do you open? Matai potkhim?
Thank you Toda What time do you close? Matai sogrim?
Many thanks Toda raba this one zeh
Excuse me Slikha that one hahu
Hello Shalom expensive yakar
Good day Boker tov inexpensive/cheap lo yakar/zol
Good evening Erev tov size mida
Good night Laila tov shoe size mida (midat na’alyim)
Greetings (on the Sabbath) Shabat Shalom white lavan
Have a good week Shavu’a tov black shakhor
(after the Sabbath) red adom
morning boker yellow tzahov
afternoon akhar hatzohoryim green yarok
evening erev blue kakhol
night laila
today hayom TYPES OF SHOP
tomorrow makhar antiques shop khanut atikot
here po bakery ma’afia
there sham bank bank
what? ma? barber’s maspera
which? eizeh? bookshop/newsagent khanut sfarim/ve’itonim
when? matai? butcher’s itliz
who? mi? cake shop ma’adania
where? efo? chemist’s bet merkakhat
USEFUL PHRASES clothes shop khanut b’gadim
greengrocer’s
yarkan
How are you? Ma shlomkha/shlomekh? grocer’s makolet
Very well, thank you Beseder, toda hairdresser’s maspera
Pleased to meet you Na’immeod jeweller’s khanut takhshitim
Goodbye Lehitraot market shuk
(I’m) fine! Beseder gamur post office snif hadoar
Where is/Where are…? Efo…? shoe shop khanut na’alyim
How many kilometres is it to…? Kama kilometrim mipo le…? supermarket supermarket
What is the way to…? Ekh megi’im le…? travel agency sokhnut nesiyot
Do you speak English? Ata/at medaber/medaberet SIGHTSEEING
anglit?
I don’t understand Ani lo mevin/mevina bus station takhana merkazit
Could you speak more Tukhal/tukhli ledaber yoter bus stop takhanat otobus
slowly, please? le’at, bevakasha? church knesia
closed sagur
USEFUL WORDS library sifria
large gadol mosque misgad
park
park
small katan synagogue bet haknesset
hot kham taxi monit
cold kar tourist information office merkaz hameida letayar
bad lo tov town hall bet ha’iria
enough maspik train station takhanat rakevet
well beseder
open patuakh STAYING IN A HOTEL
closed sagur
left smol I have a reservation Yesh li hazmana
right yamin Do you have a free room? Yesh lakhem kheder panui?
straight yashar double room kheder zugi
near karov room with two beds kheder im shtei mitot
far rakhok room with a bath or kheder im sherutim ve
up lemala a shower ambatia o miklakhat
down lemata single room kheder yakhid
soon mukdam key mafteakh
late meukhar lift ma’alit
entrance knisa Can someone help me Mishehu yakhol la’azor li im
exit yetzia with my luggage? hamisvadot?
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EATING OUT plums shezifim
potatoes tapukhei adama
Have you got a table free? Yesh lakhem prawns/shrimps shrimps
shulkhan panui? red snapper denis
I would like to book a table Haiti rotze/rotza lehazmin red wine yain adom
shulkhan
The bill please Kheshbon, bevakasha rice orez
I am vegetarian Ani tzimkhoni/ roast betanur
tzimkhonit salad salat yerakot
menu tafrit salmon salmon
fixed-price menu tafrit iskit salt melakh
wine list tafrit hayeinot sandwich/filled roll lakhmania
glass kos sauce rotev
bottle bakbuk seafood peirot yam
knife sakin smoked me’ushan
spoon kaf soup marak
fork mazleg spinach tered
breakfast arukhat boker spinach beet alei selek
lunch arukhat tzohoryim (Swiss chard)
dinner arukhat erev squid kalamari
starter mana rishona steak steik
main course mana ikarit strawberries tut sade (tutim)
portion mana stuffed vegetables memulaim
rare mevushal me’at
well done mevushal hetev sugar sukar
tea tei
FOOD AND DRINK tomatoes agvaniot
almonds shkedim trout forel
hodu
turkey
apples tapuakhei etz vegetables yerakot
apricot mish mish vinegar khometz
aubergine/eggplant khatzilim water myim
beans shu’it
beef bakar white wine yain lavan
beer bira
bread lekhem NUMBERS
broad beans ful 0 efes
broccoli brokoli 1 akhad
butter khem’a 2 shtaim
cabbage kruv 3 shalosh
cake ugha 4 arba
carrot gezer 5 khamesh
cauliflower kruvit 6 shesh
cheese gvina
cherries duvdvanim 7 sheva
chicken off 8 shmone
chickpeas khumus 9 teisha
chips/fries chips 10 eser
chocolate shokolat 11 ahadesreh
coffee kafe 12 shtemesreh
cold cuts pastrama 13 shloshesreh
coriander kuzbera 14 arbaesre
courgettes/zucchini kishuim 15 khameshesreh
crabs sartanim 16 sheshesreh
cucumbers melafefonim 17 shvaesreh
dessert kinuakh 18 shmona’esreh
draught beer bira mihakhavit 19 tshaesreh
dry yavesh 20 esrim
eggs betza 21 esrim veakhad
figs te’enim 30 shloshim
fish dag 40 arba’im
French beans shu’it yerokha
fried metugan 50 khamishim
fruit peirot 60 shishim
garlic shum 70 shiv’im
grapes anavim 80 shmonim
grey mullet buri 90 tish’im
grilled al haesh 100 mea
grouper lokus 200 matyim
hard-boiled eggs betza kasha 300 shlosh meot
herbal tea tei tzmakhim 1,000 elef
hot (spicy) kharif 2,000 alpyim
ice kerakh 3,000 shlosha elef
ice cream glida 4,000 arba elef
kebab shipud 10,000 asara elef
lamb, mutton keves
lemon limon TIME
liver kaved
meat basar one minute daka
milk khalav one hour sha’a
mineral water myim mineralim half an hour khetzi sha’a
nuts egozim Sunday yom rishon
olive oil shemen zyit Monday yom sheni
omelette khavita Tuesday yom shlishi
onion batzal Wednesday yom revi’i
orange juice mitz tapuzim Thursday yom khamishi
(freshly squeezed) (tiv’i sakhut) Friday yom shishi
oranges tapuzim Saturday shabat
peaches afarsekim week shavu’a
pepper (condiment) pilpel month khodesh
peppers (capsicums) pilpelim
pickles khamutzim year shana
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ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Dorling Kindersley: Magnus Rew 85cr.
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Sheet map cover:
Alamy Stock Photo: Mark Higham
Cover images:
Front and spine: Alamy Stock Photo: Mark Higham.
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/Hamid Khan tr. Paul Clammer, Fabrizio Ardito, Cristina Gambaro,
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For further information see: www.dkimages.com Senior Editor Ankita Awasthi Tröger
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Illustrators Isidoro Gonzáles-Adalid Cabezas
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First edition 2000
Published in Great Britain by Dorling Kindersley Limited,
80 Strand, London, WC2R 0RL
Published in the United States by DK Publishing,
1450 Broadway, 8th Floor, New York, NY 10018
The information in this
DK Eyewitness Travel Guide is checked regularly. Copyright © 2000, 2019 Dorling Kindersley Limited
Every effort has been made to ensure that this book A Penguin Random House Company
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is as up-to-date as possible at the time of going to All rights reserved.
press. Some details, however, such as telephone
numbers, opening hours, prices, gallery hanging No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in
arrangements and travel information, are liable to or introduced into a retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form,
or by any means (electronic, mechanical, photocopying,
change. The publishers cannot accept responsibility recording, or otherwise), without the prior written permission
for any consequences arising from the use of this of the copyright owner.
book, nor for any material on third party websites, A CIP catalog record for this book
and cannot guarantee that any website address is available from the British Library.
in this book will be a suitable source of travel A catalog record for this book is available
information. We value the views and suggestions from the Library of Congress.
of our readers very highly. Please write to: Publisher, ISSN: 1542 1554
DK Eyewitness Travel Guides, Dorling Kindersley, ISBN: 9 780 2413 6005 7
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